What to Do When Potted Camellias Get Pests? Spray Pesticides to Control Pests and Diseases

With advances in potting techniques, camellias have become a beautiful sight in many people's homes. Any plant can get pests, and of course camellias are no exception. What should you do when camellias get pests? Common camellia pests include aphids, stem borers, and red spider mites. The control methods differ for each type of pest. Below we will look at pest and disease control for camellias.

I. What to Do When Camellias Get Pests: Spray Pesticides to Kill Them

Camellias are very common in daily life, and their unique flowers and fragrance are deeply loved by people. Earlier we discussed how to grow camellias and their benefits and uses. Now let's talk about a very common problem: what to do when camellias get pests, and pest and disease control for camellias. There are many common camellia pests, and the control method for each is different. Let's go through them one by one below.

II. Pest and Disease Control for Camellias

1. Aphids

Aphids come in two types: winged aphids and wingless aphids. Aphids gather on the tender shoots of camellias to suck sap, causing the buds and leaves of the affected camellia to shrivel and severely affecting growth. At the same time, the excretions of aphids can also cause sooty mold.

Control method: In the early stage of aphid damage, spray the camellia plants with a 2000-fold dilution of 50% phosphamidon emulsion or 50% dimethoate emulsion every 3-5 days. Generally, about 3 applications can eliminate the aphids. Another method is to use 0.5 kg of tobacco stems and 0.25 kg of quicklime, add water (about 10-15 L), soak for a day and a night, filter out the residue, and spray for control.

2. Scale insects

What to do when camellias get pests? It is very likely these insects. There are many species of scale insects, among which the three most damaging to camellias are the cottony cushion scale, the red wax scale, and the chaff scale. Scale insects lay a large number of eggs; each female can lay around a thousand eggs, and can lay 3-5 times a year. So in severe cases, the branches and leaves are covered with scale insects sucking sap from the leaves. Affected leaves change from green to grayish green, and finally to yellow, causing the entire plant to wither and die.

Control method: Because these insects are mostly concentrated in groups, they are relatively easy to spot. When their numbers are small in the early stage, you can directly crush and kill the insects on the branches and leaves. If there are relatively many insects, take advantage of the weak pesticide resistance of newly hatched nymphs and time the application well. (Adults have a waxy coating on their body surface, so spraying is less effective.)

3. Stem borers

They damage the branches and tips of camellias, causing the affected branches and tips to wither and die. Damage is generally severe from March to April and from August to September.

Control method: Cut off and burn branches infested with stem borers. Use light traps to kill adults. During the peak emergence period of adults, spray with a 500-fold dilution of 20% dimethoate emulsion or a 1000-fold dilution of 90% trichlorfon. During the larval stage, a 500-fold dilution of 90% trichlorfon can also be used.

4. Black spiny whitefly

This insect sucks sap from the leaves and damages camellia leaves. Its secretions can also cause widespread outbreaks of sooty mold, severely affecting the normal photosynthesis of camellias, and in severe cases causing large numbers of flowers to drop.

Control method: In winter or early spring, cut off and burn infested branches and leaves. During the peak hatching period of nymphs, spray with phosmet, malathion, or dimethoate, once every 7 days, for effective control. Through the above answers, I believe everyone now knows what to do when camellias get pests and how to control camellia pests and diseases. Below let's look at disease control for camellias.

III. Disease Control for Camellias

1. Anthracnose

This disease is one of the common diseases of camellias. It generally occurs from June—July on the leaves of the current year's seedlings. The lesions mostly start from the leaf tip or leaf margin. At first, water-soaked greenish-brown lesions appear on the edges of the basal leaves, then expand into irregular large patches arranged in a pattern of small black dots that spread across the entire leaf, finally causing the leaves to drop.

Control method: Strengthen cultivation management, pay attention to applying organic fertilizer and phosphorus-potassium fertilizer to improve the plant's disease resistance, and promptly remove and burn diseased leaves. After the spring shoots emerge, spray with 1% Bordeaux mixture to prevent infection by pathogens. In the early stage of disease, spray with a 600-fold aqueous solution of 65% zineb wettable powder; or spray with a 1000—1500-fold dilution of 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder.

2. Sooty mold

This disease can damage both branches and leaves, and is more obvious on the leaves. In the early stage of the disease, small soot-like mold spots appear on the affected parts, then gradually expand and connect into patches, covering most of the plant with a soot-like mold layer. After the pathogen parasitizes, it not only absorbs nutrients from the flowers but also severely affects the plant's photosynthesis and respiration, causing heavy leaf drop.

Control method: Do not plant too densely; keep good ventilation and light penetration between plants. Do not let humidity become too high; control the conditions for pathogen growth. During the disease period, spray with 0.3 degrees Baume lime sulfur mixture, once every 10—15 days, for a total of 3 sprays. You can also spray with a 500-fold dilution of 50% thiophanate wettable powder, once every 7—10 days, 3 sprays, for therapeutic effect.

3. Root-knot nematode disease

This disease damages the roots of camellias, turning the roots dark brown and causing root nodules to rot and rupture. The main root swells, new fibrous roots do not grow, aboveground growth stops, and the entire plant gradually dies.

Control method: Before potting, sterilize the growing medium to kill disease-causing organisms. ② After discovering the disease, immediately repot using sterilized growing medium. Before repotting, the potting soil can be spread out under the hot sun for 2—3 days before use. A solution made with dibromochloropropane plus 100—150 times water can be sprayed on the soil for sterilization, but soil treated with this chemical must be piled for 20 days before it can be used for potting. Otherwise it will damage the root system. The above is the complete content on pest and disease control for camellias and what to do when camellias get pests. We hope it helps you.

Color Atlas of Camellia Pests and Diseases

Color Atlas of Camellia Pests and Diseases

Scab

A plant disease mainly caused by the fungi Elsinoe and Sphaceloma. Bacteria of the genus Xanthomonas and actinomycetes of the genus Streptomyces can also cause scab. Affected parts form rough, slightly raised, scab-like or suberized, round or oval lesions with cracking or sunken centers. Symptoms are most obvious after damage to stems and pods, melons and fruits, tuberous roots, and tubers. In severe cases, lesions merge into patches, fruits become deformed, and fleshy roots and stems develop poorly. Leaves become distorted when affected, and young plants may die.
The pathogen overwinters in diseased residual tissues or branches. The pathogen on aboveground parts spreads through wind and rain, while the pathogen on underground parts spreads through the movement of soil moisture and the activity of underground organisms. Infected seeds or plants can spread the disease over long distances. Control is generally carried out through measures such as clearing diseased residual tissues, applying more organic fertilizer, and spraying chemicals during the growing season. Control methods: ① Strengthen management, apply more potassium fertilizer so that new shoots emerge uniformly and mature quickly, do a good job of winter orchard cleaning and pruning, and improve the tree's disease resistance. ② Chemical protection: In spring and early summer, when there is a lot of rain and the temperature is not very high, and when morning fog and dew are heavy, the disease is severe, so spray chemicals to protect young leaves. Chemicals for controlling canker and anthracnose can both be used.
Affected leaves initially show water-soaked round small spots, which later turn waxy yellow. The lesions expand as the leaves grow and gradually become suberized, bulging out on one side of the leaf into conical scabs while sunken inward on the other side. Leaves with many lesions become twisted and deformed, and severe cases cause defoliation.
The pathogen overwinters in diseased tissues. The optimal temperature for development is 16-23°C. When the temperature is above 15°C during cloudy and rainy weather in spring, conidia are produced and spread through wind, rain, and insects. Spring air humidity is the main factor determining whether the disease is severe. If spring shoots and late autumn shoots emerge during continuous rainy weather and heavy morning fog, the disease becomes prevalent. During the summer shoot period, the disease rarely occurs due to high temperatures.
Control methods
(1) Pay attention to seedling selection: New nurseries should use disease-free seedlings, and avoid transporting seedlings and taking scions from diseased areas.
(2) Strengthen cultivation management: Do a good job of winter orchard cleaning and pruning, and burn the pruned diseased branches and fallen leaves in a centralized manner. Thin out overly dense branches to improve ventilation and light conditions inside the canopy and reduce air humidity within the canopy.
(3) Chemical control: This disease only infects young tender tissues, so it is necessary to do a good job of chemical protection for spring shoots, late autumn shoots, and the young fruit stage. The first spray is when spring buds grow to 2 mm, the second at the flower fading stage, and spraying during the late autumn shoot stage depends on the weather. Pesticides that can be selected include: before infection, spray 0.3-0.5% Bordeaux mixture at double strength, or a 500-600-fold dilution of 30% copper oxychloride, or a 500-fold dilution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder, or a 500-fold dilution of 50% thiram wettable powder for preventive protection. For already infected plants, spray systemic fungicides such as a 600-800-fold dilution of 50% thiophanate wettable powder.

Anthracnose

[Cause and symptoms] This disease is caused by infection of camellia leaves by the fungus Colletotrichum gloeosporioides. This is the main disease of camellias, with an incidence rate of 33%. Symptoms mostly appear on leaf margins, leaf tips, and both sides of the veins. Initially dark green streaks appear, then gradually expand into irregular large patches, with the color changing from brown to black. In severe cases, it can spread across the entire leaf, causing heavy defoliation.

[Disease pattern] The occurrence of this disease is closely related to temperature and humidity. The suitable temperature for disease onset is generally 25-28°C. When the temperature is suitable and humidity increases, especially during continuous rainfall, the spread and development of the disease are promoted. The disease generally begins in April, peaks from June to July, and tends to stop after September.
[Control methods] ① Thoroughly remove diseased leaves. ② Prune diseased and dead branches in winter. ③ Before the disease period each year, spray 1% Bordeaux mixture once every half month. ④ Spray with a 600-fold chlorothalonil aqueous solution once a week, for 3-4 consecutive sprays. ⑤ Strengthen cultivation management and carry out scientific weeding and fertilizing. In spring, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and spray a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution before the leaves unfold.
Algal leaf spot

[Cause and symptoms] This disease is caused by the parasitic alga Cephaleuros virescens. Lesions can appear on both sides of the leaf, but mainly on the upper surface. At first they are pinhead-sized grayish-green small round dots, then gradually expand outward in a radial pattern, forming nearly round or irregular lesions. The lesions are obviously raised, with fine striped felt-like material on the surface. In the later stage, the lesion color changes from grayish green to dark brown. Because the pathogen covers the leaf surface, it affects photosynthesis, thereby weakening the growth of the camellia plant.

[Disease pattern] The parasitic alga overwinters as filamentous vegetative bodies in the host tissues and produces zoospores under humid conditions. The spores invade new plants and cause disease. This pathogen is a very weak parasite. Under conditions of high temperature and high humidity, camellia groves that grow poorly due to poor ventilation and light penetration are most severely affected by this disease.
[Control methods] ① Strengthen cultivation management, fertilize reasonably, prune in a timely manner, avoid making the camellia grove too shady, and ensure ventilation and light penetration to improve camellia resistance. ② Spray with a 0.2%-0.5% copper sulfate solution for control.
Root rot

[Cause and symptoms] This disease is caused by various pathogenic fungi, the most common of which are Phytophthora cinnamomi, Cylindrocladium crotalariae, and Armillaria. It mainly infects the root system of camellias. The roots of affected plants rot and turn black, leaves turn yellow, shoot tips die, flower buds drop, and the plant gradually wilts and dies.

[Disease pattern] The pathogen overwinters as sclerotia in the soil or on diseased plants. In the spring of the following year, when temperature and humidity are suitable, the sclerotia germinate into hyphae, spread through the soil, and infect the plant roots. The higher the temperature, the higher the incidence rate.
[Control methods] ① Promptly dig out diseased plants and the contaminated soil around them, and disinfect the soil around diseased plants with a 1% copper sulfate solution to prevent the pathogen from spreading. ② Keep the soil well drained and strictly prevent waterlogging in the cultivation area. ③ Choose camellia varieties with strong disease resistance for cultivation.
Flower rot

[Cause and symptoms] This disease is caused by infection of the petals by the camellia flower rot fungus (Giborinia camelliae Kohn). Affected flowers first show small brown spots, which then gradually expand until the entire flower turns brown and withers.

[Disease pattern] The flower rot fungus can form sclerotia at the flower stalk, and its spores can spread with the wind. The incidence is generally lower in autumn. From December to March of the following year, as temperatures rise, the rate of flower damage increases.
[Control methods] ① When camellia flowers infected with this disease are found, remove them promptly and burn them in a centralized manner. Especially during the flowering period, promptly clean up diseased flowers that fall on the ground. ② Before flowering, spray the flower buds 2-3 times with a fungicide such as carbendazim. ③ Choose more camellia varieties that bloom in autumn, or treat mid- and late-blooming varieties with gibberellin to make them bloom in autumn, thereby avoiding the peak period of the camellia flower rot fungus. ④ Use biological control methods. Inoculate the soil with the two fungi Sporidesmium sclerotivorum and Coniothyrium minitans to kill the pathogen spores. ⑤ Do not buy or cultivate camellia plants with flower rot.
Twig blight

Twig blight is a disease caused by pathogenic fungi infecting the young or old branches of camellias. Affected branches necrose, leaves change from green to pale yellow, gradually dry up and drop from the top downward, and finally the entire branch tip dries up and dies.

Control methods
1. Prune diseased and dead branches in winter and burn them in a centralized manner.
2. Remove useless adventitious buds and thin weak branches to reduce the places where the pathogen can attach.
3. Keep diseased plants isolated during care.
4. Before the camellia plants sprout, spray with fungicides such as thiophanate-methyl, thiram, and chlorothalonil.
5. Apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer and less nitrogen fertilizer.
Rust mites


Rust mites (rust spiders) belong to the order Acariformes, family Eriophyidae. The mites are extremely small and damage tender leaves and tender branches as nymphs or adults by sucking sap. Affected leaves show many reddish-brown small spots on the underside, which gradually expand and develop many net-like white cracks. The surface turns yellow and loses its luster, and both sides and the tip of the leaf curl downward, become distorted, and eventually drop. Seedlings and young trees are mainly affected more severely on summer and autumn shoots.
Control methods:
1. Spray lime sulfur mixture, acaricides, and malathion; spray a 5000-fold dilution of 1.8% abamectin plus a 1500-fold dilution of 4.5% beta-cypermethrin, or spray a 2000-3000-fold dilution of 15% pyridaben; you can also use 50 g of laundry detergent and 10 mL of diesel oil added to 10 L of water, stir well, and spray for control.

2. Rust mites reproduce fastest under high-temperature and drought conditions, so it is necessary to cool the nursery site and spray water, and promptly prune off leaves already damaged by rust mites.

Spider mites

[For control methods, please see"Rust mites"]

Sooty mold


When camellias are attacked by sooty mold, a layer of dark brown to blackish-brown mold forms on the surface, which later thickens into a soot-like layer. Due to different pathogen species, the later mold forms vary, such as black small dots scattered on the mold layer (i.e., pycnidia or perithecia) or bristle-like elongated pycnidial protrusions. In orchards where this disease occurs severely, the canopy looks as if covered with a layer of soot.
[Cause]:
There are many pathogens for this disease. Except for the genus Meliola, which is purely parasitic, the other genera are surface epiphytic fungi. The pathogen forms vary, but the mycelium is dark brown and forms asexual and sexual reproductive bodies on the host surface. Ascospores are dark brown or colorless, with one to several septa; cleistothecia are stalked or unstalked, with or without appendages and bristles on the outside.
The mycelium of Capnodium sp. is filamentous. Conidia are single-celled, oval or ovate, smooth on the surface, and colorless. Dense cylindrical or nearly club-shaped pycnidia are borne in the mycelial mass, with the ends relatively swollen and round, dark brown, and the pycnidia are borne on the swollen parts. Perithecia are spherical or flattened spherical, membranous, dark-colored, with an ostiole at the top and superficial bristles. Asci are club-shaped, containing 8 ascospores; spores are long oval, with longitudinal and transverse septa, brown.
[Occurrence pattern]:
This disease overwinters in diseased parts as mycelium, pycnidia, and cleistothecia. In the following year, under suitable temperature and humidity conditions, spores are produced and spread by wind and rain to the host (lychee trees), where they use the secretions of pests such as scale insects, white moth planthoppers, whiteflies, and leaf gall mites as nutrients to grow and reproduce, and spread from place to place to infect and cause damage. Orchards where the above pests occur commonly and severely are favorable for the invasion and prevalence of this disease.
[Control methods]:
(1) Agricultural control: Strengthen camellia management, persist in rational fertilization, moderate pruning, and removal of diseased branches to facilitate ventilation and light penetration, strengthen tree vigor, and reduce disease occurrence.

(2) Chemical control: ① Use chemicals to control piercing-sucking pests such as scale insects, white moth planthoppers, and whiteflies to reduce disease factors. ② For more severely affected plants, at the early stage of disease, apply chemicals twice in succession, with an interval of about 10 days between sprays. Selected chemicals include: 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder, or 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder, mixed at 1:1 and diluted 600-800 times, or a 800-fold dilution of 77% copper hydroxide wettable powder, or 0.3%-0.5% Bordeaux mixture, etc.

Scale insects

There are more than 30 common species of scale insects, among which the three most damaging to camellias are the chaff scale, the cottony cushion scale, and the red wax scale.

Scale insects mainly parasitize the branches and leaves of camellias, especially the main veins, leaf margins, and undersides of leaves. They pierce the leaf mesophyll or branch cortex tissue with their piercing-sucking mouthparts and absorb nutrients. This causes sunken yellow spots on the leaf surface, or white cotton-like patches on the underside of leaves, or pink tumor-like small protrusions on branches. Leaves turn yellow, curl, and even drop. The plant grows poorly and flower buds drop.
When camellias are cultivated indoors or in greenhouses, if ventilation is poor, they are susceptible to scale insect damage.
Improve the ventilation and light conditions for camellias to inhibit the growth and reproduction of scale insects.
[Treatment methods]
1. During the hatching period of scale insects, spray a relatively high concentration of insecticide. You can use a 1000-fold dilution of 48% chlorpyrifos emulsifiable concentrate for control, or wash them off cleanly. You can also apply a 5-fold dilution of 40% omethoate to the trunk. Spray with a 1000-fold dilution of 45% malathion emulsifiable concentrate.
Under conditions of high temperature and high humidity and poor ventilation, especially when placed in a greenhouse for a long time in autumn and winter, scale insect damage is likely to appear on the stems and leaves.
Strengthen ventilation and light penetration, and pay attention to controlling environmental humidity. If a small number of live insects are found, promptly wipe them off with a damp cloth, or use clear tape to stick them off. For commercial cultivation, during the peak hatching period of nymphs, spray with a 1500-fold dilution of 25% buprofezin wettable powder. Kuangshajie has a special effect on scale insect control; use a 800-**** fold dilution of Kuangshajie for uniform spraying.
2. When there are not many camellias in home care, traditional methods can be used for control. For example, spraying with a laundry detergent aqueous solution. I once used "insecticidal aerosol" spray, and it also had a very good effect. Fellow enthusiasts can also give it a try.
Aphids

[Morphology and damage] Aphids come in two types: winged aphids and wingless aphids. The winged parthenogenetic female has transparent wings and a blackish-brown body; the wingless parthenogenetic female has no wings and a dark brown body. In addition, nymphs resemble adults in appearance, have no wings, and are pale yellow. Adults and nymphs gather on the tender shoots of camellias to suck sap, causing the buds and leaves of the affected camellia to shrivel and severely affecting growth. The excretions of aphids can cause sooty mold.

[Control methods] ① During the peak occurrence period of aphids, spray the camellia plants with a 2000-fold dilution of 50% phosphamidon emulsion or a 1000-fold dilution of 50% dimethoate emulsion, once every 3-5 days, for 3 consecutive sprays, to eliminate the aphids. ② Use 0.5 kg of tobacco stems and 0.25 kg of quicklime, add 10-15 L of water, soak for a day and a night, filter out the residue, and spray for control; the effect is good.
Leaf miner

[Damage status] The leaf miner larvae burrow under the epidermis of tender camellia leaves and new shoots to feed. Damage begins in May, gradually becomes more severe in June, and is most severe from July to September. The epidermis of affected young leaves shows semi-transparent streaks, and the epidermis of affected new shoots shows white or semi-transparent blister-like patches. Camellia plants grow poorly, and leaves become distorted and drop.

[Control methods] ① Spray with a 5000-fold dilution of fenvalerate or a 1000-fold dilution of omethoate, 3 consecutive sprays before and after the occurrence of the pest, for control. ② For household potted camellias, if nymphs are causing damage, they can be captured and killed manually.
Tea tussock moth

This pest mainly damages camellias by larvae boring into and feeding on the top new shoots, causing the new shoots to die.

[Control methods]:
Carry out chemical control promptly after the larvae hatch (mid-to-late July) and before they bore into branches and tips to overwinter (October). Pesticides that can be selected include a 1500-fold dilution of 40% dimethoate or 80% dichlorvos emulsion, a 3000-fold dilution of 2.5% bifenthrin emulsifiable concentrate, and a 1500-fold dilution of 50% cartap powder. When spraying, be sure to wet the undersides of leaves with pest spots.
Leaf roller

[For control methods, see "Tea tussock moth"]

Sunscald

Camellia sunscald is mainly caused by tender leaves being scorched by the sun during the growing period when high temperatures occur. If only a few leaves show this condition, it will not affect the growth of the camellia. Once discovered, shade should be provided to protect from the sun.

Mirid bugs

Mirid bugs, also called plant bugs, have 5 generations per year. The main species include the green mirid bug, the three-spotted mirid bug, and the alfalfa mirid bug, with the green mirid bug causing the most severe damage. They begin damaging tender camellia leaves in May, cause severe damage from June to August, and fly back to overwintering sites in mid-to-late September to lay eggs and overwinter. Mirid bugs prefer shady and humid conditions, fear light, and hide by day and come out at night. In years with more rainfall and high humidity from June to August, damage is severe; in dry years, damage is light.

1. The spray solution must be applied to both the front and back of camellia leaves. In particular, the affected leaf surfaces, the upper and lower parts of stems, and cracks around the ground must all be sprayed with the solution. 2. The best time for control is from 5 to 7 p.m. Control chemicals should be rotated. When spraying, start from the outer perimeter and work inward in a circling manner to concentrate and eliminate them and prevent them from migrating. 2. Choose control chemicals that are systemic, fumigant, or contact-acting, or compound formulations. Such as malathion-phoxim, fipronil, cypermethrin-profenofos, chlorpyrifos-phoxim, cyhalothrin, and so on.
Small green leafhopper

The adult small green leafhopper has a body length of 3.3-3.7 mm, is pale yellow-green to green, with compound eyes grayish brown to dark brown, no ocelli, and bristle-like antennae with black tips. The pronotum and scutellum are light bright green, often with white spots. The forewings are semi-transparent, slightly leathery, pale yellowish-white, with a light green fine border around the edge. The hindwings are transparent and membranous. The parts below the apex of each tibia are pale blue-green, and the claws are brown; the tarsi have 3 segments; the hind legs are jumping legs. The abdominal tergites are darker than the sternites, and the end is pale blue-green. The top of the head is slightly short and protrudes forward; the beak is slightly brown and green at the base. Eggs are long oval, slightly curved, with a long diameter of 0.6 mm and a short diameter of 0.15 mm, milky white. Nymphs are 2.5-3.5 mm long and similar to adults.

Adults and nymphs suck sap. Affected leaves initially show yellow-white spots that gradually expand into patches, and in severe cases the entire leaf becomes pale and drops early.
It has 4-6 generations per year and overwinters as adults in fallen leaves, weeds, or low green plants. In the following spring, after peach, plum, and apricot sprout, they emerge from dormancy, fly to the trees, pierce and suck sap, and after feeding, mate and lay eggs. Eggs are mostly laid in new shoots or the main veins of leaves. The egg stage is 5-20 days; the nymph stage is 10-20 days; non-overwintering adults live 30 days; completing 1 generation takes 40-50 days. Because the occurrence periods are not uniform, generations overlap. The population increases in June and is greatest and most damaging from August to September. After autumn, the last generation of adults overwinters. Adults and nymphs prefer to be active during the day, sucking sap or resting on the undersides of leaves. Adults are good at jumping and can spread with the wind. A ten-day average temperature of 15-25°C is suitable for their growth and development. Above 28°C and during continuous cloudy and rainy weather, population density decreases.
Control methods
(1) Before adults emerge from dormancy, clear fallen leaves and weeds to reduce overwintering sources. (2) After overwintering-generation adults migrate in, spray promptly during the peak hatching period of each generation's nymphs with a 800-fold dilution of 20% leafhopper powder (mipcin) emulsifiable concentrate, or a 600-800-fold dilution of 25% metolcarb wettable powder, a 400-fold dilution of 20% XMC emulsifiable concentrate, a 1500-2000-fold dilution of 50% malathion emulsifiable concentrate, a 2000-fold dilution of 20% fenvalerate-malathion emulsifiable concentrate, a 2.5% deltamethrin or lambda-cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate, a 3000-4000-fold dilution of 50% pirimicarb ultra-micron wettable powder, a 2500-fold dilution of 10% imidacloprid wettable powder, a 1000-fold dilution of 20% buprofezin emulsifiable concentrate, a 1500-fold dilution of 40% methidathion emulsifiable concentrate, a 2000-fold dilution of 2.5% beta-cyfluthrin emulsifiable concentrate, or a 2000-3000-fold dilution of 35% thiodicarb emulsifiable concentrate, all of which can achieve relatively good results.