How to Propagate Saxifraga stolonifera? A Detailed Guide to Division and Sowing Methods
Saxifraga stolonifera has attractive leaves and vivid flowers, so many people want to grow a few more pots, but they don't know how to propagate it. At present, the two propagation methods commonly used by botanists for Saxifraga stolonifera are division and sowing, each with its own advantages and disadvantages, so you need to choose according to your own situation.
Saxifraga stolonifera has attractive leaves and vivid flowers, so many people want to grow a few more pots, but they don't know how to propagate it. At present, the two propagation methods commonly used by botanists for Saxifraga stolonifera are division and sowing, each with its own advantages and disadvantages, so you need to choose according to your own situation.
How to Propagate Saxifraga stolonifera
The most commonly used methods of plant propagation are cuttings, sowing and division, so which is the best way to propagate Saxifraga stolonifera? Both division and sowing work. Since the two methods have their own different characteristics, below is a comparison of their advantages and disadvantages.
Division propagation: advantages are a high success rate, short time to take effect, and simple operation; the disadvantage is that the propagation time is limited.
Sowing propagation: the advantage is easy care; the disadvantage is that the seeds are not easy to collect, and seed selection requires care.
Propagation Methods for Saxifraga stolonifera
I. Division Propagation of Saxifraga stolonifera
1. Propagation Time
If conditions are suitable, it can be propagated all year round, but most people cannot provide a suitable environment at any time, so for ordinary people, division propagation should be carried out in spring or autumn, when the temperature is not high.
2. Operating Steps
a. Selecting the shoots
In April or October, select healthy small plantlets on the stolons of Saxifraga stolonifera and cut them off.
b. Planting the shoots
Plant the shoots in a cultivation pot, then cover with glass or plastic film, and observe the humidity inside every day; be sure to maintain high humidity.
c. Transplanting
About two weeks after division propagation, the plant will resume growth, and at this point it can be transplanted elsewhere, such as into a pot or under the eaves.
II. Sowing Propagation of Saxifraga stolonifera
If you have the opportunity to obtain seeds of Saxifraga stolonifera, then this propagation method is the most worthwhile choice. However, when sowing, there are three points to note:
1. Choose the soil carefully
Saxifraga stolonifera requires soil that is fertile, moist and well-draining. It can be planted under dense, humid forest, or on shady, damp hillsides; just do not let it be exposed to direct sunlight.
2. Timing is very important
When using sowing propagation, the best time is March to April, when the humidity and temperature are both suitable, and the seedlings grow faster after emergence. From sowing to emergence generally takes about 15-20 days.
3. Later care
The new seedlings that grow after sowing are rather fragile, so you must understand the correct cultivation methods and precautions for Saxifraga stolonifera. Just after transplanting, the new seedlings do not need frequent watering, but the pot soil should be kept moist. In summer, shade should be provided, with a shading level of 50-60%.
Summary: The main propagation methods for Saxifraga stolonifera are division and sowing. Since the seeds are not easy to collect, most people use division propagation. No matter which propagation method is used, one point must be emphasized: the environment must be suitable, and the environment includes temperature, humidity and light, with a moist and cool environment being preferable. Later care is equally important.
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I. The Benefits of Growing Flowers
With their gorgeous splendor, flowers decorate nature with extraordinary beauty and give people aesthetic enjoyment. Growing flowers can enrich and adjust people's cultural life, add pleasure, cultivate temperament and improve health; it can also increase scientific knowledge and raise cultural and artistic literacy. Growing flowers can green and beautify the land of the motherland, protect and improve the environment, and purify the air, so that people can work and study in a beautiful environment and live more happily. Growing flowers is not only for ornamentation, but also has many important economic values. Flowers are an important part of Chinese herbal medicine; honeysuckle, chrysanthemum, wintersweet, hibiscus, rhododendron, Chinese rose, lotus and others are all common Chinese medicinal materials. Fragrant flowers are widely used in food, light industry and other fields; for example, osmanthus can be used as a food fragrance and for brewing wine, jasmine, magnolia, bitter orange and chloranthus can be used to scent tea, chrysanthemum can be made into high-grade foods and dishes, and magnolia, jasmine, rose, wintersweet and narcissus can be used to extract essence.
II. "Three Suitables" for Growing Flowers Indoors
1. It is suitable to grow flowers with a strong ability to absorb toxins. Some flowers can absorb certain concentrations of toxic gases in the air, such as sulfur dioxide, nitrogen oxides, hydrogen fluoride, formaldehyde, hydrogen chloride and so on. According to research, wintersweet can absorb mercury vapor; pomegranate plants can absorb lead vapor in the air; snapdragon, canna, morning glory, gladiolus, dianthus and others can, through their leaves, convert highly toxic sulfur dioxide into non-toxic or low-toxicity sulfate compounds through oxidation; narcissus, four o'clock flower, chrysanthemum, Saxifraga stolonifera and others can convert nitrogen oxides into proteins in plant cells; spider plant, aloe and snake plant can absorb large amounts of indoor pollutants such as formaldehyde, eliminating and preventing indoor air pollution.
2. It is suitable to grow flowers that can secrete bactericides. The bactericides secreted by flowers such as jasmine, lilac, honeysuckle and morning glory can kill certain bacteria in the air, inhibit the occurrence of diphtheria, tuberculosis, dysentery pathogens and typhoid bacteria, and keep indoor air clean and sanitary.
3. It is suitable to grow flowers with "complementary" functions. Most flowers mainly carry out photosynthesis during the day, absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen. At night they respire, absorbing oxygen and releasing carbon dioxide. Cacti are just the opposite: during the day they release carbon dioxide, and at night they absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen. Growing flowers with "complementary" functions in the same room can not only benefit both, but also balance the indoor oxygen and carbon dioxide levels and keep the indoor air fresh.
III. "Three Don'ts" for Growing Flowers Indoors
1. Don't grow too many flowers that give off strong fragrance or irritating odors. For example, orchids, roses, Chinese roses, lilies and night-blooming jasmine can all give off rich aromas. One pot in a room fills it with fragrance, but if too many fragrant flowers are placed indoors and the scent is too strong, it will excite people's nerves; especially if people smell it for a long time in the bedroom, it can cause insomnia. The gases released by poinsettia and evergreen are unfavorable to people; if the microparticles released by tulips and hydrangea are touched for too long, the skin will become allergic and itchy.
2. Don't place too many. At night, most flowers release carbon dioxide and absorb oxygen, "competing for air" with people. And at night most rooms are closed, with insufficient air circulation with the outside. If too many flowers are placed indoors, it will reduce the indoor oxygen concentration at night and affect sleep quality, such as chest tightness and frequent nightmares.
3. Don't place toxic flowers indoors. For example, oleander is toxic in its stems, leaves and even flowers during spring, summer and autumn; the milky white sap it secretes contains an oleandrin, and accidental ingestion will cause poisoning. The bulb of narcissus contains lycorine toxin; if a child accidentally eats it, it will cause symptoms such as vomiting. The sap of the leaves and flowers makes the skin red and swollen, and if the sap gets into the eyes, it will harm the eyes. Too much contact with mimosa can easily cause sparse eyebrows and yellowing hair, and in severe cases hair loss.
Therefore, when growing and enjoying flowers, we should understand the relevant scientific knowledge to bring health and happiness to ourselves and our families.
IV. "Six Don'ts" for Growing Flowers at Home
Growing flowers at home is now increasingly common, but many flower enthusiasts, because they do not grasp the essentials, grow flowers that are wilted and lifeless. Where is the problem?
First, don't be careless. Flowers, like people, are living beings and need careful care. Many flower growers lack the proper careful and diligent attitude toward these beautiful lives. First, they are mentally lazy and do not like to study flower-growing knowledge, content to remain laymen for a long time, and their management is not methodical. Second, they are physically lazy and unwilling to spend too much time and energy on flowers. After the flowers enter the home, they are left aside, enduring hunger and thirst for a long time and suffering from pests and diseases. In this way, even the best flowers will gradually wither. So lazy people cannot grow flowers well.
Second, don't love them too much. Contrary to the above situation, some flower growers love flowers too much and their hands itch if they do not fiddle with them for a moment. Some water and fertilize without any pattern, watering whenever they think of it, causing the flowers to die from excessive water or fertilizer; some casually move the flower pots around, moving them to several places a day, making the flowers constantly adapt to the environment and disrupting normal growth patterns. Over time, it would be strange if the flowers were not worn out to death. It is understandable to like a few suitable flowers at home, but flowers, like people, have their own growth patterns. If you frequently disturb them when they need rest, they will naturally feel tired and grow poorly.
Third, don't chase fame and profit. Some flower enthusiasts believe that when growing flowers, one should grow famous flowers, because famous flowers have high ornamental value and great market profit. Under this mentality, they spare no expense and seek famous flowers and trees everywhere. As a result, often due to the lack of good care conditions and management skills, the flowers die soon after purchase, which both mistreats precious flowers and wastes money. This is a misconception. The correct approach should be to start with ordinary, lower-grade varieties and gradually explore the rules and techniques of growing flowers. After reaching a certain technical level, then gradually purchase more precious varieties; only then is success more likely.
Fourth, don't fail to distinguish good from bad. Some flower growers are eager for variety and completeness, and no matter what variety it is, they move it home when they see it. This not only makes management difficult, but also brings some flowers unsuitable for growing into the home, polluting the environment and harming health. For example, flowers with toxic sap can easily cause poisoning when people touch them. The odor of some flowers affects people's nervous system and can easily cause breathing difficulty or even allergic reactions. Plants with sharp thorns also pose a certain threat to human safety, and so on. In short, growing flowers at home should not be greedy for variety and completeness without distinguishing good from bad; you should choose types with smaller plant shape, attractive appearance and no harm to people.
Fifth, don't be fickle. Some flower growers are restless and have no theme in growing flowers; the flowers at home are changed as quickly as a revolving lantern. This is a great taboo in growing flowers. First, changing varieties too quickly and growing them for too short a time is not conducive to cultivating flowers and trees with beautiful shape and high ornamental value. Second, trying each flower only superficially is not conducive to improving your flower-growing level, and in the end you remain a flower novice. Therefore, only by choosing one or two kinds of flowers and focusing on researching and cultivating them can a flower grower gain something in their heart.
Sixth, don't cling to old ideas. Today, new knowledge and new technologies in the flower-growing industry emerge endlessly, yet most flower growers still stick to traditional care methods and are not good at using new technologies and new equipment in the use of containers, water and fertilizer management, and seedling cultivation, such as soilless culture, odorless flower fertilizer and various flower containers. As a result, home flower growing is unhygienic, unattractive, not novel, and has relatively large side effects.
V. The Knowledge of Buying Flowers
Do not buy the following kinds of flowers:
1. Flowers just potted. When buying flowers, if you see that the soil in the pot is new and the stem moves when pulled upward, then this pot of flowers has definitely just been potted not long ago and has not yet grown new roots. Such flowers are very easy to die after being bought. The reason is that some vendors, in pursuit of economic benefit, directly mix undecomposed organic fertilizer into the soil. Once these fertilizers ferment, the flower roots will be burned. Sometimes, to save labor or rush for time, they plant the flower roots without any sorting, and even hastily pot and market flower plants whose roots are too severely damaged and simply cannot survive. If you accidentally buy such flowers, most will be difficult to keep alive.
2. Flowers planted together as two or more plants. Some vendors seize on buyers' preference for lush flowers and leaves, planting two or more undesirable flower seedlings together in one pot, passing off inferior goods as good and selling them to inexperienced buyers for profit. After such flowers are bought, the branches and leaves they grow will become thinner, weaker and yellower day by day, and the flowers will bloom smaller and smaller. The reason is insufficient nutrition, and too many roots in the pot make it easy for the soil to compact; poor drainage and poor aeration may also cause root rot and death. Of course, specially designed combined potted plants are not included in this. Flowers without a soil ball in summer or winter: in hot summer, when the temperature is high, flower leaves evaporate quickly, and the root system of newly potted flowers is more or less damaged, making it difficult for them to absorb water from the pot soil in a short time. Only by bringing the original soil ball can they safely pass through this transition period; otherwise they will first wilt and then slowly die. In winter, when the weather is cold and flowers grow slowly, some even enter dormancy. If you buy flowers without a soil ball from the market and bring them home at this time, once watered after potting, they may suffer freezing damage, especially the root system; in mild cases plant growth is hindered, and in severe cases they die. Even if they are not frozen, because the soil temperature is low, it is very difficult for the flowers to grow new roots, while the old roots cannot sprout for a long time and are extremely prone to rot and necrosis. Areas without heating in winter, such as the Yangtze River basin, should pay special attention.
3. Flowers with roots but no stems or leaves. Some individual traders dig up wild vines and miscellaneous tree roots on the mountains in autumn and winter and sell them as flowers and trees. Because there are no stems or leaves, it is very difficult to identify them. To keep them moist, they wrap them in moss and give them strange flower names, specifically deceiving inexperienced buyers. Some people are greedy for a bargain, but after buying them, nine times out of ten they only grow leaves and do not bloom.
4. Flowers shown in pictures as being able to bloom in multiple colors. A small number of illegal vendors, in order to make profit, insert fake flowers of various colors into some plants that cannot bloom, then photograph them to make pictures and give them foreign flower names, deceiving friends who are new to growing flowers. These flower vendors at street stalls move from place to place, and buyers who are cheated can hardly find them.
5. Flowers whose branches and leaves are tied with thin wire into various shapes. To sell for a good price, flower and tree vendors intentionally tie all the branches and leaves of evergreen trees such as pines and cypresses into various animal shapes with thin wire, then take them to the market and sell them at a high price as bonsai. Such potted flowers look good at the time, but as time goes by and the plants grow, their shape will change. Moreover, tying all the branches and leaves of the plant at the same time not only affects photosynthesis, but also easily causes pests and diseases, which is very unfavorable to plant growth.
6. Cactus flowers with small frost spots on the stems or balls. In early spring, individual vendors are often seen selling cactus-type flowers at low prices. Some buyers do not examine carefully and buy ten or eight at once, and as a result, not a few have problems. The reason is that cacti that have overwintered are very prone to slight frost injury, with light green frost spots smaller than a grain of rice appearing on the stems and balls. On the surface there seems to be no problem, but in essence the internal tissues of the plant have already been greatly damaged. If such flowers are bought and no measures are taken, the spots will grow larger and larger, the plant will gradually become semi-transparent, and finally the whole plant will die.
VI. Spring Care for Household Potted Flowers
The whole year's work depends on a good start in spring. The management and care of household potted flowers in spring is very important, and the following three aspects of work should be done well.
1. Propagate good seedlings. Chinese rose, geranium, pomegranate, winter jasmine and others can be propagated in spring by cutting healthy branches. Rhododendron and jasmine prefer acidic soil; you can cut robust new branches 5-10 cm long, remove the lower leaves, and keep 3-4 top leaves for cuttings. For cuttings, black mountain soil, vermiculite or yellow sand can be used as the medium. Spray the cuttings moderately to maintain a certain humidity, and generally they will root after about 1 month. Orchids, agave and spider plant can be propagated in early spring by division or by stolons respectively.
For spring-sown herbaceous plants grown from seed, such as asparagus fern, five-color pepper, mimosa, impatiens, scarlet sage, morning glory and marigold types, broadcasting or dibbling can be used. Sowing method: first fill the pot with soil, press it slightly firm, then sow the seeds, and cover with fine soil. For watering after sowing, generally place the flower pot in a water basin and let water slowly seep in from the bottom of the pot. Most will germinate 1-3 weeks after sowing; after germination, move the pot to a sunny place. After the seedlings grow 2-3 leaves, they can be divided and transplanted; when transplanting, be careful not to damage the roots or break the stems.
2. Repotting and changing soil. This is a method of supplementing fertilizer for potted flowers in spring. Generally, small pots are repotted once a year, and large pots once every 3-4 years; tall plants need larger pots. If some root systems are too dense or have dead or rotten roots, proper pruning is needed. After repotting, generally the first watering should be thorough, then place in a cool place; afterward, water again when the pot soil is seen to be dry. Generally, after new roots grow, carry out normal watering and move to a sunny place.
3. Pruning and trimming. This should be done according to different plants. Rhododendron and winter jasmine should not be pruned excessively. For pomegranate, Chinese rose and others, dead branches, injured branches or overly dense branches can all be cut off in early spring to promote lush flowers and leaves. Jasmine should have old leaves removed when repotting to encourage more new branches. Climbing vine plants such as Boston ivy, banksia rose, wisteria and multiflora rose can be trained so that the leaf surface receives as much sunlight as possible and grows vigorously.
Note that potted flowers in early spring should not be moved outdoors too early, to avoid freezing damage from cold air. Watering can be increased as the temperature rises, keeping moisture and dryness balanced.
VII. Summer Care for Household Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In summer, flowers have lush branches and leaves and consume a lot of water, so in summer you should water the flowers thoroughly every morning and evening.
2. Build a frame for shade. All potted flowers, once summer arrives, need a frame with reed curtains placed on it for shade, so that they can safely pass through the severe heat of summer.
3. Pay attention to ventilation. For indoor flowers, when the temperature exceeds 30°C, pay attention to ventilation, open the windows, and let fresh air flow into the room to prevent heatstroke and lower the temperature.
4. Maintain moisture and lower temperature. In summer, you can cover the pot soil with some straw so that sunlight does not directly strike the pot soil, thereby lowering the pot soil temperature and preventing the moisture in the pot soil from evaporating too quickly; you can also use a sprayer to wet the leaves of the flowers and at the same time wet the surroundings to lower the temperature and increase humidity. This is very beneficial to some flowers that like cool conditions.
VIII. Autumn Care for Household Potted Flowers
1. Strengthen water and fertilizer management. After the Start of Autumn, the weather gradually turns cooler. For some foliage flowers, such as asparagus fern, spider plant and sago palm, generally apply a thin liquid fertilizer once every half month to keep the leaves green and improve cold resistance. For chrysanthemum, camellia, rhododendron and others that bloom once a year, timely apply additional liquid fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus fertilizer to ensure sufficient nutrients so that they bloom more and larger. For Chinese rose, milan and jasmine and others that bloom multiple times a year, supply sufficient fertilizer and water so that they bloom continuously. For some ornamental-fruit flowers, such as kumquat, finger citron and fruit pomegranate, apply 1-2 times a thin liquid fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus fertilizer. As the temperature gradually decreases, except for autumn-sown herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, winter or early spring and continue normal watering, other flowers should have watering frequency reduced, and the pot soil should not be watered until dry, so as to avoid excessive water and fertilizer causing excessive growth of branches and leaves and affecting flower bud differentiation and freezing damage.
2. Timely autumn sowing and autumn cuttings. In autumn, timely harvest mature flower and tree seeds, and timely sow tulips, gloxinia, snapdragon and so on. Especially for seeds that easily lose germination capacity, they should be sown in time in autumn. Combined with pruning, take cuttings of flowers and trees. For example, cuttings of Chinese rose, rose and multiflora rose have a relatively high survival rate.
IX. Winter Care for Household Potted Flowers
Different types of flowers have different growth habits, and different management measures should be taken to ensure they safely overwinter.
1. Overwintering of deciduous woody flowers: most deciduous woody flowers originate from temperate regions. Common ones include pomegranate, honeysuckle, Chinese rose, ornamental peach and winter jasmine. They are generally in a dormant state in winter, so the room temperature can be controlled at about 5°C. If there is a balcony or small courtyard, cold-hardy potted Chinese rose, ornamental peach, pomegranate, honeysuckle and others can be placed together in a wind-sheltered spot on the balcony or in a corner of the courtyard, wrapped and covered with plastic film, and they can overwinter safely.
2. Overwintering of evergreen woody flowers: such as oleander, kumquat and osmanthus, which are in a semi-dormant state. Generally, the temperature should be controlled above 0°C, and they can safely pass the severe winter. For milan, jasmine, hibiscus and gardenia, they should be placed in a place with sufficient sunlight. The indoor temperature should be maintained at about 15°C; if the temperature is too low, it will cause the flowers to die.
3. Overwintering of annual and biennial herbaceous flowers: such as fairy primrose, coleus and pocketbook plant, keeping the room temperature between 5°C and 15°C will allow normal growth. For perennial herbaceous flowers such as asparagus fern, impatiens, geranium and wax begonia, maintaining sufficient sunlight and a room temperature of 10°C-20°C will allow them to grow well. For herbaceous flowers that are dormant in winter such as clivia and oncidium, maintaining a room temperature of about 5°C and giving an appropriate amount of light is enough; light should not exceed 8-10 hours per day, and at the same time strengthen fertilizer and water management, and they can bloom after two months.
X. Several Small Tips for Growing Flowers
1. How to judge whether potted flowers lack water
(1) Tapping method: gently tap the upper-middle part of the flower pot wall with the knuckle of your finger. If a relatively clear sound is produced, it indicates that the pot soil is dry and needs immediate watering; if a dull, muddy sound is produced, it indicates that the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped.
(2) Visual method: observe with your eyes whether the color of the pot soil surface has changed. If the color becomes lighter or light gray-white, it indicates that the pot soil is dry and needs watering; if the color becomes darker or dark brown, it indicates that the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped.
(3) Finger test method: gently insert your finger about 2 cm deep into the pot soil and feel the soil. If it feels dry or rough and hard, it indicates that the pot soil is dry and needs immediate watering; if it feels slightly moist, fine and soft, it indicates that the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped.
(4) Rolling method: roll a bit of the pot soil with your fingers. If the soil becomes powdery, it indicates that the pot soil is dry and should be watered immediately; if the soil forms flakes or granules, it indicates that the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped. The above methods are all based on experience, and they can only tell people the approximate condition of whether the pot soil is dry or wet. If you need to know accurately the degree of dryness or wetness of the pot soil, you can buy a soil moisture meter and insert it into the soil, and you can see words such as "dry" or "moist" on the scale, so you can know exactly when to water.
2. What should be noted about water for watering flowers
The best water for watering flowers is neutral or slightly acidic river water, pond water or rainwater. Rainwater is best for watering flowers because it contains more natural minerals. Next is river water and pond water. There is a flower saying: "River water is fat and pond water is strong; flowers are lush, leaves are full, and blooms are fragrant." In particular, greenish pond water has more nutrients and is a relatively ideal water for watering flowers. In cities, tap water is mostly used for watering flowers. However, tap water has a relatively high content of bleaching powder and chemicals, so it should be stored for one or two days before use. In addition, if you put a few slices of vitamin C in tap water, it can eliminate chlorine in the water. Generally, add one slice per basin of water, let it sit for half a day, and then it can be used to water flowers.
There is a flower saying: "When southern flowers move north, add alum when watering"; "When growing southern flowers at home in the north, fish tank water is better for watering"; "Fish water is fat and rice water is strong; they are most suitable for watering potted flowers." Whether in cold winter or midsummer, do not water flowers with cold water. When the temperature is below 10°C, you can appropriately add a little hot water to the water, trying to make the water temperature close to the soil temperature and create a microclimate suitable for flower growth.
3. Homemade fertilizer
In daily life, many waste materials can be used to make fertilizer.
(1) Soaked liquid fertilizer: use a small vat (or small jar) to put in waste vegetable leaves, melon and fruit peels, chicken and fish offal, fish scales, waste bones, eggshells and moldy foods (peanuts, melon seeds, beans, bean powder, etc.), add water and sprinkle a little trichlorfon, then cover tightly. After high-temperature fermentation and decomposition, it can be used. When using, take the clear liquid on top and dilute it with water before trial use. You can also mix the above waste materials with some old potting soil, add some water, put them into a large plastic bag, tie it tightly and leave it for a period of time, and use after fermentation.
(2) Waste composting: choose a suitable place and dig a soil pit 60-80 cm deep, line it with 10 cm of furnace ash, put rotten vegetable leaves, poultry and livestock viscera, fish scales, chicken and duck manure, eggshells, meat waste and crushed bones into the pit, sprinkle some insecticide, cover with a layer of garden soil about 10 cm thick, and keep the pit moist to promote fertilizer decomposition. It is best to compost in autumn and winter. After spring warming and decomposition without a foul odor, it can be mixed into potting soil as base fertilizer; you can also use a 4 mm sieve to sift it while wet and roll it into granules: the fine part is used as top dressing, and the coarse part as base fertilizer. When composting, you can add some orange peel or diluted rice vinegar to reduce the odor.
4. Clever fertilizing for household flowers
(1) Timely fertilizing. So-called timely fertilizing means applying fertilizer when the flowers need it. When flower leaves are found to become lighter or yellow and the plant grows thin and weak, this is the most suitable period for fertilizing. In addition, when flower seedlings sprout leaves and branches unfold leaves, top dressing should be applied to meet the fertilizer demand for rapid seedling growth. Different growth stages of flowers have different fertilizer needs. The type and amount of fertilizer also differ. For example, applying more nitrogen fertilizer at the seedling stage can promote seedling growth, and applying phosphorus fertilizer at the bud stage can promote larger, more vivid flowers and a longer flowering period.
(2) Appropriate amount of fertilizer. For potted flowers, fertilizing should follow "eat small meals often", that is, fertilize frequently but with a small amount each time. Generally, apply a thin fertilizer solution once every 7-10 days, and once every 15-20 days after the Start of Autumn. As the flowers and trees gradually grow, the fertilizer concentration gradually increases; for example, the application concentration of urea gradually increases from 0.2% in the earlier period to 1.0%; phosphorus and potassium fertilizer increases from 1.0% to 3.0-4.0%.
(3) Master fertilizing according to the season. In spring and summer, flowers grow quickly and vigorously, so a moderate amount of more fertilizer can be applied. After autumn begins, the temperature gradually decreases, flower growth weakens, and less fertilizer should be applied. From late August to early September, fertilization should stop to prevent a second growth peak; otherwise it is easy to make the flower tissue cells tender and lead to difficulty in overwintering. For overwintering flowers, fertilization should stop in winter when they are dormant.
(4) Fertilizing should take temperature into account. Potted flowers should not be fertilized around noon in high temperatures or on rainy days; fertilizing at this time easily damages the roots, and it is best to fertilize in the evening. After autumn and in winter when the temperature is low, flowers grow slowly and generally are not fertilized; in summer when the temperature is high, flowers grow vigorously and should be fertilized more. When the temperature is high, the concentration of top dressing should be low and the amount small; when using thin fertilizer solution for top dressing, apply it more times.
(5) Mixed application of medicine and fertilizer. If pests or diseases occur when fertilizing, an appropriate amount of pesticide can be added to the fertilizer solution, which can achieve the dual effect of fertilizing and preventing pests and diseases.
XI. Precautions
1. Why do household flowers die?
(1) Too much fertilizer. Some people love flowers deeply and, considering that potted flowers consume a lot of nutrients during the flowering period, apply large amounts of chemical fertilizer, causing excessive concentration. In mild cases it affects the absorption of water by root hairs, and in severe cases it causes plant death.
(2) Too much undecomposed organic fertilizer applied. Because organic fertilizer has a large amount of microbial activity when decomposing in the soil, it causes soil oxygen deficiency, and the roots suffocate and die. On the other hand, organic fertilizer fermentation produces alcohol, lactic acid and other substances that are toxic to the root system; at the same time, fermentation releases a large amount of heat, raising the temperature and causing "root burning".
(3) No place to grow flowers. People often place potted flowers on enclosed balconies facing east or west, so the radiant heat of the sun makes the temperature inside the balcony rise sharply, forming a hot, dry environment. Hot, dry and unventilated conditions also easily lead to red spider mite damage, accelerating flower death.
(4) Overwintering flowers suddenly moved outdoors. Flowers that overwinter indoors grow leaves that are semi-shade leaves or shade leaves. If suddenly moved outdoors in early spring, the shade leaves cannot adapt, and tender leaves and buds are easily scorched by sunlight. In addition, the large temperature difference between indoors and outdoors can easily cause fatal damage to flowers.
(5) Lack of sunlight. Some people, for convenience of appreciation, place flowers on indoor tables far from sunlight, causing their photosynthesis to be inhibited. The organic nutrients in the flowers can only be consumed and cannot be replenished in time, reducing the flowers' resistance and causing the plants to weaken and die. Watering too much and too frequently is also a cause of plant death.
2. Harmful flowers and trees
(1) Flowers not suitable for long-term placement indoors: pine and cypress plants, if placed indoors in relatively large numbers, release a relatively strong pine resin smell that affects people's appetite and makes pregnant women feel nauseated; geranium can cause allergic reactions in some people; tulip flowers contain toxic alkaloids, and smelling them for too long can make people dizzy and can cause hair loss; night-blooming jasmine stops photosynthesis at night and releases a large amount of waste gas, which can make patients with high blood pressure and heart disease feel depressed; if clove is placed indoors for a long time, the peculiar smell it gives off can cause asthma and depression in some people; the odor released by elderberry can also make people nauseated and dizzy. Therefore, the above flowers should not be placed indoors for too long.
(2) Toxic flowers: yellow rhododendron contains toxins in both the plant and the flowers; if accidentally eaten, it will cause poisoning. Poinsettia is toxic in the whole plant; the white sap can irritate the skin and cause redness and swelling, and after accidental ingestion of stems and leaves there is a risk of poisoning and death. Oleander: branches, leaves and bark all contain toxins; accidental ingestion of a few grams of dry matter can cause poisoning. The pencil tree is a succulent plant; the white sap flowing out after its stem is broken can make the skin red and swollen, and if it gets into the eyes it can cause blindness. Lantana: flowers and leaves are toxic; accidental ingestion will cause diarrhea and fever. Narcissus: the bulb contains lycorine; accidental ingestion will cause enteritis and vomiting, and the branches and leaves of flowers and leaves can make the skin red and swollen. Lycoris: the bulb contains toxic substances such as lycorine; after human skin contacts lycorine, it will cause redness, swelling and itching; inhaling lycorine into the respiratory tract will cause nosebleeds, and accidental ingestion will cause vomiting, diarrhea, cold hands and feet, shock, and in severe cases death due to central nervous system paralysis. Mimosa: the body contains mimosine; too much contact will cause hair loss and sparse eyebrows. Crown of thorns and Indian spurge tree: the white latex in the stems is toxic, and neither can get into the eyes. Dieffenbachia: flowers and leaves contain oxalic acid and asparagine; accidental ingestion will cause swelling and pain in the mouth, throat, esophagus and stomach, and even damage the vocal cords, making a person mute. Cactus plants: the spines contain toxic juice; after being pricked, human skin easily develops allergic symptoms such as redness, swelling, pain and itching. Coral bean: the whole plant is toxic, and children should be educated not to eat its red fruits.
3. How to deal with rot in cactus plants
When the stems, blocks and leaves of potted cactus plants turn from green to gray, the edges turn yellow, and the base becomes soft, so that the root and stem rot, the general cause is excessive watering, or after the moldy rainy season the cactus plants are placed in a dark, damp, poorly ventilated place. This causes the pot soil to become saturated with water and severely oxygen-deficient, hindering the normal activity of aerobic microorganisms such as ammonifying bacteria, nitrifying bacteria and sulfur bacteria that decompose organic matter in the soil, so they cannot effectively decompose the organic matter in the soil. As a result, the cactus plants show symptoms such as yellowing and wilting because they cannot obtain various mineral nutrients from the soil. Inexperienced growers often mistakenly think it is caused by lack of water, so they keep watering, thus causing root rot, stem rot, and even death. When the soil is too wet and too acidic and the above situation occurs, effective measures must be taken to save them. Especially when the weather suddenly clears after long rain, cactus plants should not be immediately placed under the scorching sun; they should be placed in a cool, ventilated place for 1-2 days before receiving sunlight, allowing them to recover slowly. If exposed to the sun rashly, because the water absorption capacity of the plant root system is poor, even though the pot soil is relatively wet, the stems, blocks and leaves will still wilt.
If root rot or stem rot occurs, repot and change the soil, cut off the rotten roots, disinfect with slaked lime powder (such as old wall lime), dry them, and repot. If the roots are good and only a small amount of the stem block has rotted, surgery can be used: cut off all the rotten parts with a sterilized sharp knife, then apply slaked lime to make the cut dry quickly so that the stem block no longer rots.
While carrying out technical treatment, you can dig out part of the pot soil and place it on a ventilated windowsill or balcony, allowing it to ventilate as much as possible.
Complete Collection of Flower Growing Information (With This Article in Hand, No Worries About Growing Flowers)
I. The Benefits of Growing FlowersWith their gorgeous splendor, flowers decorate nature with extraordinary beauty and give people aesthetic enjoyment. Growing flowers can enrich and adjust people's cultural life, add pleasure, cultivate temperament and improve health; it can also increase scientific knowledge and raise cultural and artistic literacy. Growing flowers can green and beautify the land of the motherland, protect and improve the environment, and purify the air, so that people can work and study in a beautiful environment and live more happily. Growing flowers is not only for ornamentation, but also has many important economic values. Flowers are an important part of Chinese herbal medicine; honeysuckle, chrysanthemum, wintersweet, hibiscus, rhododendron, Chinese rose, lotus and others are all common Chinese medicinal materials. Fragrant flowers are widely used in food, light industry and other fields; for example, osmanthus can be used as a food fragrance and for brewing wine, jasmine, magnolia, bitter orange and chloranthus can be used to scent tea, chrysanthemum can be made into high-grade foods and dishes, and magnolia, jasmine, rose, wintersweet and narcissus can be used to extract essence.
II. "Three Suitables" for Growing Flowers Indoors
1. It is suitable to grow flowers with a strong ability to absorb toxins. Some flowers can absorb certain concentrations of toxic gases in the air, such as sulfur dioxide, nitrogen oxides, hydrogen fluoride, formaldehyde, hydrogen chloride and so on. According to research, wintersweet can absorb mercury vapor; pomegranate plants can absorb lead vapor in the air; snapdragon, canna, morning glory, gladiolus, dianthus and others can, through their leaves, convert highly toxic sulfur dioxide into non-toxic or low-toxicity sulfate compounds through oxidation; narcissus, four o'clock flower, chrysanthemum, Saxifraga stolonifera and others can convert nitrogen oxides into proteins in plant cells; spider plant, aloe and snake plant can absorb large amounts of indoor pollutants such as formaldehyde, eliminating and preventing indoor air pollution.
2. It is suitable to grow flowers that can secrete bactericides. The bactericides secreted by flowers such as jasmine, lilac, honeysuckle and morning glory can kill certain bacteria in the air, inhibit the occurrence of diphtheria, tuberculosis, dysentery pathogens and typhoid bacteria, and keep indoor air clean and sanitary.
3. It is suitable to grow flowers with "complementary" functions. Most flowers mainly carry out photosynthesis during the day, absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen. At night they respire, absorbing oxygen and releasing carbon dioxide. Cacti are just the opposite: during the day they release carbon dioxide, and at night they absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen. Growing flowers with "complementary" functions in the same room can not only benefit both, but also balance the indoor oxygen and carbon dioxide levels and keep the indoor air fresh.
III. "Three Don'ts" for Growing Flowers Indoors
1. Don't grow too many flowers that give off strong fragrance or irritating odors. For example, orchids, roses, Chinese roses, lilies and night-blooming jasmine can all give off rich aromas. One pot in a room fills it with fragrance, but if too many fragrant flowers are placed indoors and the scent is too strong, it will excite people's nerves; especially if people smell it for a long time in the bedroom, it can cause insomnia. The gases released by poinsettia and evergreen are unfavorable to people; if the microparticles released by tulips and hydrangea are touched for too long, the skin will become allergic and itchy.
2. Don't place too many. At night, most flowers release carbon dioxide and absorb oxygen, "competing for air" with people. And at night most rooms are closed, with insufficient air circulation with the outside. If too many flowers are placed indoors, it will reduce the indoor oxygen concentration at night and affect sleep quality, such as chest tightness and frequent nightmares.
3. Don't place toxic flowers indoors. For example, oleander is toxic in its stems, leaves and even flowers during spring, summer and autumn; the milky white sap it secretes contains an oleandrin, and accidental ingestion will cause poisoning. The bulb of narcissus contains lycorine toxin; if a child accidentally eats it, it will cause symptoms such as vomiting. The sap of the leaves and flowers makes the skin red and swollen, and if the sap gets into the eyes, it will harm the eyes. Too much contact with mimosa can easily cause sparse eyebrows and yellowing hair, and in severe cases hair loss.
Therefore, when growing and enjoying flowers, we should understand the relevant scientific knowledge to bring health and happiness to ourselves and our families.
IV. The "Six Don'ts" of Growing Flowers at Home
Growing flowers at home is now increasingly common, but many flower-growing enthusiasts, lacking the knack, end up with flowers that are wilted and lifeless. Where does the problem lie?
First Don't: Being Careless. Flowers, like people, are living things that need careful tending. Many flower growers lack the proper care and diligence toward these beautiful lives. First, they are mentally lazy, unwilling to study flower-growing knowledge, content to remain laymen for the long term, and manage things improperly. Second, they are physically lazy, unwilling to spend too much time and energy on flowers. Once the flowers enter the home, they are left neglected in a corner, enduring hunger and thirst for long periods and suffering from pests and diseases. In this way, even the best flowers will gradually wither. So lazy people cannot grow flowers well.
Second Don't: Loving Them Too Much. Contrary to the above situation, some flower growers love their flowers too much and their hands itch if they don't fuss with them for a moment. Some water and fertilize without any regularity, watering whenever they think of it, causing flowers to die from overwatering and overfertilizing; some casually move flower pots around, shifting them to several places a day, forcing the flowers to constantly adapt to new environments and disrupting their normal growth patterns. Over time, it would be strange if the flowers weren't tormented to death. Having a few pleasing flowers at home and liking them is understandable, but flowers, like people, have their own growth patterns. If you frequently disturb them when they need rest, they will naturally feel exhausted and grow poorly.
Third Don't: Chasing Fame and Profit. Some flower enthusiasts believe that growing flowers means growing famous varieties, because famous flowers have high ornamental value and great market profit. Dominated by this mentality, they spare no expense to seek out and buy famous flowers and trees from everywhere. The result is often that, due to the lack of good cultivation conditions and management skills, the flowers die soon after purchase, both wasting the precious flowers and squandering money. This is a misconception. The correct approach should be to start with ordinary, lower-grade varieties and gradually learn the rules and techniques of flower growing. After reaching a certain level of skill, then gradually purchase more precious varieties, so that the chances of success are greater.
Fourth Don't: Failing to Distinguish Good from Bad. Some flower growers are greedy for size and completeness, bringing home whatever they see regardless of variety. This not only makes management difficult but also brings some unsuitable flowers into the home, polluting the environment and harming health. For example, flowers with toxic sap can easily cause poisoning when people come into contact with them. The scent of some flowers affects the human nervous system, easily causing breathing difficulty or even allergic reactions. Plants with sharp thorns also pose a certain threat to human safety, and so on. In short, growing flowers at home should not be about greed for size and completeness or failing to distinguish good from bad; one should choose varieties with smaller plant shapes, attractive appearance, and no harm to humans.
Fifth Don't: Being Fickle. Some flower growers are restless and lack a theme in their flower growing, constantly switching the flowers at home like a revolving lantern. This is a great taboo in flower growing. First, changing varieties too quickly and growing each for too short a time is not conducive to cultivating flowers and trees with beautiful shapes and high ornamental value. Second, tasting each flower only superficially is not conducive to improving one's flower-growing skills, and in the end one remains a flower illiterate. Therefore, only by choosing one or two kinds of flowers and focusing on studying and cultivating them can a flower grower truly gain something.
Sixth Don't: Having Outdated Concepts. Today, new knowledge and new technologies in the flower-growing industry emerge endlessly, yet most flower growers still cling to traditional care methods and are not good at using new technologies and new equipment in the use of flower containers, water and fertilizer management, and seedling cultivation, such as soilless culture, odorless flower fertilizers, and various flower containers. As a result, home flower growing becomes unhygienic, unattractive, and uninnovative, with relatively large side effects.
V. The Knowledge of Buying Flowers
The following types of flowers should not be bought:
1. Newly potted flowers. When buying flowers, if you see that the soil in the pot is new and the stem moves when you pull it upward, then this pot of flowers has definitely been recently potted and has not yet grown new roots. Such flowers are very likely to die after being bought. The reason is that some vendors, in pursuit of economic profit, mix undecomposed organic fertilizer directly into the soil. Once these fertilizers ferment, the flower's root system will be burned. Sometimes, to save labor or rush for time, they plant the flower roots without any sorting at all, or even hastily pot severely damaged roots that cannot survive at all and put them on the market. If you accidentally buy such flowers, most will be difficult to keep alive.
2. Flowers planted with two or more plants together. Some vendors seize on buyers' preference for lush flowers and leaves, planting two or more undesirable seedlings together in a pot, passing off inferior goods as superior and selling them to inexperienced buyers for profit. After such flowers are bought, the branches and leaves that grow will become thinner, weaker, and yellower day by day, and the flowers will bloom smaller and smaller. The reason lies in insufficient nutrition, and too many roots in the pot, which easily causes soil compaction, and may also cause root rot and death due to poor drainage and poor aeration. Of course, specially designed combination planters are not included in this category. Flowers without a soil ball in summer or winter: in hot summer, when temperatures are high, flower leaves evaporate quickly, and the root systems of newly potted flowers are more or less damaged, making it difficult for them to absorb water from the potting soil in the short term. Only by keeping the original soil ball can they safely pass through this transition period; otherwise they will first wilt and then slowly wither and die. In winter, when the weather is cold, flowers and trees grow slowly, and some even enter dormancy. At this time, if you buy flowers and trees without a soil ball from the market and bring them home, once they are potted and watered, they may suffer freezing damage (especially the root system), ranging from hindered growth to death. Even if they are not frozen, because the soil temperature is relatively low, it is very difficult for the flowers and trees to grow new roots, while the old roots cannot sprout for a long time and are extremely prone to rotting and necrosis. Areas along the Yangtze River basin and other regions without heating in winter should pay special attention.
3. Flowers with roots but no stems or leaves. Some individual vendors dig up wild vines and miscellaneous tree roots from the mountains in autumn and winter and pass them off as flowers and trees for sale. Because there are no stems or leaves, it is very difficult to identify them. To keep them moist, they wrap them in moss and give them strange flower names, specifically to deceive inexperienced buyers. Some people buy them seeking a bargain, but after buying them, nine out of ten grow only leaves and do not bloom.
4. Flowers that are shown in pictures as being able to bloom in multiple colors. A few unscrupulous vendors, in order to make a profit, insert fake flowers of various colors into some plants that cannot bloom, then take photos and make pictures, give them foreign-sounding flower names, and deceive friends who are beginners at growing flowers. These flower vendors at street stalls move from place to place, and buyers who are cheated can hardly find them.
5. Flowers whose branches and leaves are tied with thin wire into various shapes. In order to sell for a good price, flower and tree vendors deliberately tie all the branches and leaves of evergreens such as pines and cypresses with thin wire into various animal shapes, then take them to the market and sell them at high prices as bonsai. Such potted flowers look good at the time, but over time, as the plant grows, the shape will change. Moreover, tying all the branches and leaves of the plant at the same time not only affects photosynthesis but also makes it prone to pests and diseases, which is very unfavorable to the plant's growth.
6. Cactus flowers with small frost spots on the stems or balls. In early spring, individual vendors are often seen selling cactus-type flowers at low prices. Some buyers, without examining carefully, buy eight or ten at a time, and as a result, no small number of them have problems. The reason is that cacti that have overwintered are very susceptible to slight frost damage, with light green frost spots smaller than grains of rice appearing on the stems and balls. On the surface there seems to be no problem, but in reality the internal tissues of the plant have already suffered major damage. If such flowers are bought and no measures are taken, the spots will grow larger and larger, the plant will gradually become semi-transparent, and finally the whole plant will necrose.
VI. Spring Care of Home Potted Flowers
The whole year's work depends on a good start in spring. The management and care of home potted flowers in spring is very important, and the following three aspects of work should be done well.
1. Propagate good seedlings. Chinese roses, geraniums, pomegranates, winter jasmine, etc. can be propagated in spring by taking healthy branches for cuttings. Azaleas and jasmine prefer acidic soil, so you can cut sturdy new branches 5-10 cm long, remove the lower leaves, keep 3-4 top leaves, and use them for cuttings. For cuttings, black mountain soil, vermiculite, or yellow sand can be used as the medium. Spray the cuttings moderately to maintain a certain humidity, and generally after about 1 month they will take root. Orchids, agaves, and spider plants can be propagated in early spring by division or by runners, respectively.
For spring-sown herbaceous plants grown from seed, such as asparagus fern, five-color pepper, mimosa, garden balsam, salvia, morning glory, and marigold types, you can sow by broadcasting or dibbling. Sowing method: first fill the pot with soil, press it down slightly, then sow the seeds, and cover with fine soil. For watering after sowing, generally place the flower pot into a water basin and let water slowly seep in from the bottom of the pot. Most will germinate 1-3 weeks after sowing; after germination, move the pot to a sunny place. After the seedlings grow 2-3 leaves, they can be pricked out and transplanted. When transplanting, be careful not to damage the roots or break the stems.
2. Repotting and changing soil. This is a method of supplementing fertilizer for potted flowers in spring. Generally, small pots are repotted once a year, and large pots once every 3-4 years; tall plants need to be moved into larger pots. If some root systems are too dense or have dead or rotten roots, they should be pruned appropriately. After repotting, generally the first watering should be thorough, then place the pot in a cool place, and afterward water again when the potting soil is seen to be dry. Generally, after new roots grow, resume normal watering and move it to a sunny place.
3. Pruning and trimming. This should be done according to different plants. Azaleas and winter jasmine should not be pruned excessively. For pomegranates and Chinese roses, dead branches, damaged branches, or overly dense branches can all be cut away in early spring to promote lush flowers and leaves. Jasmine should have old leaves removed when repotting to encourage more new branches to sprout. Climbing vine plants such as Boston ivy, banks rose, wisteria, and multiflora rose can be trained so that the leaf surface receives as much sunlight as possible and grows vigorously.
Note that in early spring, potted flowers should not be moved outdoors too early, lest they suffer freezing damage from cold air. Watering can be increased as temperatures rise, keeping moisture and dryness well balanced.
VII. Summer Care of Home Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In summer, flowers have lush branches and leaves and consume a lot of water, so in summer you should water the flowers thoroughly every morning and evening.
2. Set up frames for shade. All potted flowers, once summer comes, need a frame with reed curtains placed on it for shade, so they can safely pass through the severe summer heat.
3. Pay attention to ventilation. For indoor flowers, when the temperature exceeds 30°C, pay attention to ventilation, open the windows, and let fresh air flow into the room to prevent heatstroke and lower the temperature.
4. Maintain moisture and lower temperature. In summer, you can cover the potting soil with some grass straw so that sunlight does not directly hit the potting soil, thereby lowering the soil temperature and preventing the moisture in the potting soil from evaporating too quickly. You can also use a sprayer to wet the leaves of the flowers and also sprinkle the surrounding area to lower the temperature and increase humidity. This is very beneficial for some flowers that like cool conditions.
VIII. Autumn Care of Home Potted Flowers
1. Strengthen water and fertilizer management. After the Start of Autumn, the weather gradually turns cooler. For some foliage plants, such as asparagus fern, spider plant, and sago palm, generally apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once every half month to keep the leaves green and improve cold resistance. For chrysanthemums, camellias, azaleas, etc. that bloom once a year, timely apply additional liquid fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus fertilizer to ensure sufficient nutrients so they bloom more and larger. For Chinese roses, Aglaia, jasmine, etc. that bloom multiple times a year, supply sufficient fertilizer and water so they continue to bloom. For some fruit-ornamental flowers, such as kumquat, finger citron, and fruit pomegranate, apply 1-2 times a dilute liquid fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus fertilizer. As the temperature gradually decreases, besides continuing normal watering for autumn-sown herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, winter, or early spring, watering frequency should be reduced for other flowers, so that the potting soil is not watered unless dry, in order to avoid excessive water and fertilizer causing excessive vegetative growth of branches and leaves, affecting flower bud differentiation and causing freezing damage.
2. Timely autumn sowing and autumn cuttings. In autumn, timely harvest mature flower and tree seeds, and timely sow tulips, gloxinias, snapdragons, etc. Especially for seeds that easily lose germinating ability, they should be sown promptly in autumn. Combined with pruning, take cuttings of flowers and trees. For example, taking cuttings of Chinese roses, roses, and multiflora roses has a relatively high survival rate.
IX. Winter Care of Home Potted Flowers
Different types of flowers each have different growth habits, and different management measures should be taken to ensure they safely overwinter.
1. Overwintering of deciduous woody flowers: Most deciduous woody flowers originate from temperate regions. Common ones include pomegranate, honeysuckle, Chinese rose, ornamental peach, and winter jasmine. They are generally in a dormant state in winter, so controlling the room temperature at around 5°C is sufficient. If there is a balcony or small courtyard, cold-resistant potted Chinese roses, ornamental peaches, pomegranates, honeysuckles, etc. can be placed together in a wind-sheltered spot on the balcony or in a corner of the courtyard, wrapped and covered well with plastic film, and they can safely overwinter.
2. Overwintering of evergreen woody flowers: Such as oleander, kumquat, and osmanthus, which are in a semi-dormant state, with the temperature generally controlled above 0°C, can safely pass through the severe winter. For Aglaia, jasmine, hibiscus, and gardenia, they should be placed in a place with sufficient sunlight. The indoor temperature should be maintained at around 15°C; if the temperature is too low, it will cause the flowers to die.
3. Overwintering of annual and biennial herbaceous flowers: Such as fairy primrose, coleus, and calceolaria; keeping the room temperature between 5°C and 15°C allows normal growth. For perennial herbaceous flowers such as asparagus fern, garden balsam, geranium, and wax begonia, maintaining sufficient sunlight and a room temperature of 10°C-20°C allows them to grow well. For herbaceous flowers that are dormant in winter, such as clivia and oncidium, maintaining a room temperature of around 5°C and giving an appropriate amount of light is sufficient, with daily light not exceeding 8-10 hours. At the same time, strengthen fertilizer and water management, and after two months they can bloom.
X. Several Tips for Growing Flowers
1. How to tell whether a potted flower is short of water
(1) Tapping method: Gently tap the upper-middle part of the flower pot wall with the knuckle of your finger. If a relatively crisp sound is produced, it indicates that the potting soil is already dry and needs immediate watering; if a dull, muffled sound is produced, it indicates that the potting soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped.
(2) Visual method: Observe with your eyes whether the color of the surface of the potting soil has changed. If the color becomes lighter or appears light grayish-white, it indicates that the potting soil is already dry and needs watering; if the color becomes darker or appears dark brown, it indicates that the potting soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped.
(3) Finger test method: Gently insert your finger about 2 cm deep into the potting soil and feel the soil. If it feels dry or rough and hard, it indicates that the potting soil is already dry and needs immediate watering; if it feels slightly moist, fine, and soft, it indicates that the potting soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped.
(4) Pinching and twisting method: Pinch and twist a bit of the potting soil with your fingers. If the soil becomes powdery, it indicates that the potting soil is already dry and should be watered immediately; if the soil forms flakes or granular clumps, it indicates that the potting soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped. The above methods are all based on experience, and they can only tell people the approximate condition of whether the potting soil is dry or wet. If you need to know the degree of dryness or wetness of the potting soil accurately, you can buy a soil moisture meter, insert it into the soil, and then you can see words such as "dry" or "moist" on the scale, so you can know exactly when to water.
2. What are the particular requirements for water used to water flowers?
The best water for watering flowers is neutral or slightly acidic river water, pond water, or rainwater. Rainwater is best for watering flowers because rainwater contains more natural minerals. Next is river water and pond water. As the flower proverb says: "River water is fertile and pond water is strong; with lush flowers and leaves, the blooms are fragrant." In particular, greenish pond water is rich in nutrients and is a relatively ideal water for watering flowers. In cities, tap water is mostly used for watering flowers. However, tap water contains a relatively high amount of bleaching powder and chemicals, so when using it to water flowers, it should be stored for one or two days first. In addition, if you put a few slices of vitamin C into tap water, it can eliminate the chlorine in the water. Generally, add one slice per basin of water, let it sit for half a day, and then it can be used to water flowers.
As the flower proverb says: "When southern flowers move north, add alum when watering"; "To grow southern flowers at home in the north, fish tank water is better for watering"; "Fish water is fertile and rice water is strong; both are most suitable for watering potted flowers." Whether in deep winter or midsummer, do not water flowers with cold water. When the temperature is below 10°C, you can appropriately add some hot water to the water, trying to bring the water temperature close to the soil temperature and create a microclimate suitable for flower growth.
3. Homemade fertilizer
In daily life, many waste materials can be used to make homemade fertilizer.
(1) Soaked liquid fertilizer: Use a small vat (or small jar) and put in waste vegetable leaves, melon and fruit peels, chicken and fish offal, fish scales, waste bones, eggshells, and moldy foods (peanuts, melon seeds, beans, bean powder, etc.), add water, sprinkle a little trichlorfon, and cover tightly. After high-temperature fermentation and decomposition, it can be used. When using, take the clear liquid on top, dilute it with water, and then test it. You can also mix the above waste materials with some old potting soil, add some water, put them into a large plastic bag, tie it tightly, leave it for a period of time, and use it after fermentation.
(2) Waste composting: Choose a suitable spot and dig a soil pit 60-80 cm deep, line it with 10 cm of furnace ash, then put rotten vegetable leaves, poultry and livestock innards, fish scales, chicken and duck manure, eggshells, meat waste, and crushed bones into the pit, sprinkle some insecticide, and cover with a layer of garden soil about 10 cm thick. Keep the pit moist to promote fertilizer decomposition. It is best to compost in autumn and winter. After spring warming causes decomposition and there is no foul odor, it can be mixed into potting soil as base fertilizer. You can also use a 4 mm sieve to sieve it while wet and rub it into granules; the fine part can be used as topdressing, and the coarse part as base fertilizer. When composting, you can add some orange peel or diluted rice vinegar to reduce the odor.
4. Clever fertilizing for home flower growing
(1) Fertilize at the right time. Fertilizing at the right time means applying fertilizer when the flowers need it. The most suitable period for fertilizing is when flower leaves are found to become lighter or yellow and the plant grows thin and weak. In addition, when flower seedlings sprout leaves and branches unfold leaves, topdressing should be applied to meet the seedlings' demand for fertilizer during rapid growth. Different growth stages of flowers also have different fertilizer needs. The type and amount of fertilizer applied also differ. For example, applying more nitrogen fertilizer at the seedling stage can promote seedling growth; applying phosphorus fertilizer at the bud stage can promote larger, more brightly colored flowers and a longer flowering period.
(2) Fertilize in appropriate amounts. Fertilizing potted flowers should follow the principle of "eat small meals often," that is, fertilize frequently but with a small amount each time. Generally, apply a dilute fertilizer solution once every 7-10 days, and once every 15-20 days after the Start of Autumn. As the flowers and trees gradually grow, the fertilizer concentration gradually increases. For example, the concentration of urea applied gradually increases from 0.2% in the early stage to 1.0%; phosphorus and potassium fertilizer increases from 1.0% to 3.0-4.0%.
(3) Master fertilizing according to the season. In spring and summer, flowers grow quickly and vigorously, so a moderate amount of more fertilizer can be applied. After the Start of Autumn, the temperature gradually decreases, flower growth weakens, and less fertilizer should be applied. From late August to early September, fertilizing should be stopped to prevent a second growth peak, otherwise it is easy for flower tissue cells to become tender and make overwintering difficult. For overwintering flowers, fertilizing should be stopped when they are in a dormant state in winter.
(4) Fertilizing should take temperature into account. Potted flowers should not be fertilized around noon in high temperatures or on rainy days. Fertilizing at these times easily damages the roots, so it is best to fertilize in the evening. After autumn and in winter, when temperatures are low, flowers grow slowly and generally are not fertilized. In summer, when temperatures are high and flowers grow vigorously, more fertilizer should be applied. When temperatures are high, the concentration of topdressing should be low, the amount should be small, and dilute fertilizer solution should be applied several more times.
(5) Applying fertilizer mixed with pesticide. If pests or diseases occur when fertilizing, an appropriate amount of pesticide can be added to the fertilizer solution, which can achieve the dual effect of fertilizing and preventing pests and diseases.
XI. Points to Note
1. Why do home-grown flowers die?
(1) Too much fertilizer. Some people love their flowers so much that, considering that potted flowers consume a lot of nutrients during the flowering period, they apply a large amount of chemical fertilizer, causing the concentration to be too high. In mild cases, this affects the root hairs' absorption of water; in severe cases, it causes the plant to die.
(2) Too much undecomposed organic fertilizer. Because organic fertilizer undergoes extensive microbial activity when decomposing in the soil, it causes soil oxygen deficiency and the roots suffocate to death. On the other hand, organic fertilizer fermentation produces substances such as alcohol and lactic acid that are toxic to the root system, and fermentation also releases a large amount of heat, raising the temperature and causing "root burning."
(3) No suitable place for growing flowers. People often place potted flowers on enclosed balconies facing east or west, so that the radiant heat of the sun causes the temperature inside the balcony to rise sharply, forming a hot, dry environment. Hot, dry, and unventilated conditions also make red spider mite infestations likely, accelerating the death of the flowers.
(4) Overwintered flowers suddenly moved outdoors. For flowers that overwinter indoors, the leaves they grow are semi-shade leaves or shade leaves. If suddenly moved outdoors in early spring, the shade leaves cannot adapt, and tender leaves and buds are easily sunburned. In addition, the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors is relatively large, which can easily cause fatal damage to the flowers.
(5) Lack of sunlight. Some people, for convenience of appreciation, place flowers on indoor tables far from sunlight, causing their photosynthesis to be inhibited. The organic nutrients in the flowers can only be consumed and cannot be replenished in time, reducing the flowers' resistance and causing the plants to weaken and die. Watering too much and too frequently is also a cause of plant death.
2. Harmful flowers and trees
(1) Flowers unsuitable for long-term placement indoors: Pine and cypress plants, if placed indoors in relatively large numbers, release a relatively strong pine resin odor that affects people's appetite and makes pregnant women feel nauseated; geraniums can cause allergic reactions in some people; tulip flowers contain alkaloids, and prolonged contact can make people dizzy and confused and can cause hair loss; night-blooming jasmine, when it stops photosynthesis at night, releases a large amount of waste gas, which can make patients with high blood pressure and heart disease feel depressed; if Daphne odorata is kept indoors for a long time, the unusual odor it gives off can cause asthma and restlessness in some people; the odor released by elderberry can also make people nauseated and dizzy. Therefore, the above flowers should not be placed indoors for too long.
(2) Toxic flowers: Yellow azalea, whose plant and flowers both contain toxins; if eaten by mistake, it will cause poisoning. Poinsettia, the whole plant is toxic; the white sap can irritate the skin and cause redness and swelling, and eating the stems and leaves by mistake can risk poisoning and death. Oleander: branches, leaves, and bark all contain toxins; eating even a few grams of dry matter by mistake can cause poisoning. The pencil tree is a succulent plant; the white sap flowing out after its stem is broken can cause skin redness and swelling, and if it gets into the eyes it can cause blindness. Lantana: flowers and leaves are toxic; eating them by mistake can cause diarrhea and fever. Narcissus: the bulb contains lycorine; eating it by mistake can cause enteritis and vomiting, and the branches and leaves of the flowers and leaves can cause skin redness and swelling. Lycoris radiata: the bulb contains toxic substances such as lycorine; after human skin comes into contact with lycorine, it can cause redness, swelling, and itching; inhaling lycorine into the respiratory tract can cause nosebleeds; eating it by mistake causes vomiting, diarrhea, cold hands and feet, and shock, and in severe cases death can occur due to central nervous system paralysis. Mimosa: the body contains mimosine; excessive contact can cause hair loss and sparse eyebrows. Crown of thorns and milk bush: the white latex in the stems is toxic, and neither should get into the eyes. Dieffenbachia: flowers and leaves contain oxalic acid and asparagine; eating them by mistake can cause swelling and pain in the mouth, throat, esophagus, and stomach and intestines, and may even damage the vocal cords and make a person mute. Cactus-type plants: the thorns contain toxic sap; after being pricked, human skin is prone to allergic symptoms such as redness, swelling, pain, and itching. Coral bean: the whole plant is toxic, and children should be taught not to eat its red berries.
3. How to deal with rot in cactus-type plants
When the stems and leaves of potted cactus-type plants turn from green to gray, the edges turn yellow, the base becomes soft, and even the roots and stems rot, the general reason is excessive watering or, after the plum rain season, placing cactus-type plants in a dark, damp, poorly ventilated place. This causes the potting soil to become saturated with water and severely oxygen-deficient, preventing the normal activity of aerobic microorganisms in the soil such as ammonifying bacteria, nitrifying bacteria, and sulfur bacteria that decompose organic matter, so that organic matter in the soil cannot be effectively decomposed. As a result, cactus-type plants develop symptoms such as yellowing and wilting because they cannot obtain various mineral nutrients from the soil. People without cultivation experience often mistakenly think it is caused by lack of water, so they keep watering, thereby causing root rot, stem rot, and even death. Under conditions of overly wet and overly acidic soil, once the above situation occurs, effective measures must be taken to rescue the plant. In particular, when the weather suddenly clears after long rain, cactus-type plants should not be immediately placed under the scorching sun; they should be placed in a cool, ventilated place for 1-2 days before being exposed to sunlight again, allowing them to recover slowly. If exposed to the sun rashly, because the plant's root system has poor water absorption capacity, the stems and leaves will still wilt even though the potting soil is relatively wet.
If root rot or stem rot occurs, you should repot and change the soil, cut off the rotten roots, disinfect with powdered slaked lime (such as lime from old weathered walls), let them dry, and then repot. If the roots are good and only a small amount of the stem has rotted, you can take a surgical approach: use a sterilized sharp knife to completely cut away the rotten part, then smear slaked lime on it so the cut dries quickly and the stem no longer rots.
While carrying out these technical treatments, you can dig out part of the potting soil and place the pot on a ventilated windowsill or balcony, allowing it to ventilate as much as possible. Because the potting soil is ventilated and dry, the normal growth of cactus-type plants can be restored as quickly as possible.
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