How to propagate Philodendron selloum? Sowing, cuttings and division all work, and temperature is key
The leaves of Philodendron selloum can reach 60 cm in length and 40 cm in width, giving it very high ornamental value, so many people want to expand their plantings, and that brings up the question of propagation. So how do you propagate Philodendron selloum? Today we introduce several main propagation methods for Philodendron selloum
The leaves of Philodendron selloum can reach 60 cm in length and 40 cm in width, giving it very high ornamental value, so many people want to expand their plantings, and that brings up the question of propagation. So how do you propagate Philodendron selloum? Today we introduce several main propagation methods for Philodendron selloum.
How to propagate Philodendron selloum
The main propagation methods for Philodendron selloum are division, cuttings and sowing. The first two are the most commonly used; sowing is rarely seen because it requires mature seeds. Each method has its own characteristics. Below we take a detailed look at the specific procedure for each method.
1. Cutting method for Philodendron selloum
The ideal time for cuttings is generally May to September, when the temperature suits the growth and propagation of Philodendron selloum. Before taking cuttings, choose the soil and the stems. Use sandy soil that is airy and drains well, and cut 2-3 nodes of a robust stem, then insert it into the prepared soil to root.
Check the dryness and moisture of the sand surface every day. If it is too dry, water it; keeping the soil moist is very helpful for rooting. Usually roots form in about 20 days. After rooting, it can be transplanted into potting soil, and after that you need to master the growing methods and precautions for Philodendron selloum.
There is another commonly used cutting method: cut off the upper part of the Philodendron selloum plant for rooting, and the lower part of the plant will sprout young shoots after a period of time. These young shoots can be used for propagation.
2. Division propagation method for Philodendron selloum
When Philodendron selloum is in its vigorous growth period, tillers sprout from its base. The tillers grow leaves after a period of time, and when they have 4-5 leaves they also produce adventitious roots, at which point we can separate them from the mother root.
These separated tiller buds can then be cultivated; this is what people commonly call division propagation. The biggest feature of this method is its high success rate, and the tiller buds are also more likely to survive.
3. Sowing propagation
Philodendron selloum that has been grown for a relatively long time will have mature seeds at some point, and then we can take the seeds for sowing propagation. Before sowing, prepare a mix of sandy humus soil plus cow manure. With sowing, the key thing to watch is temperature: keep the bed surface temperature at 25-30 degrees to promote seed germination.
Summary: There are three main propagation methods for Philodendron selloum, and the ones people commonly use are division and cuttings. Whichever method is used, it must be done scientifically. During propagation, temperature is the biggest influencing factor, so be sure to control the temperature to help it sprout and root faster.
How to propagate Philodendron selloum
Propagation methods for Philodendron selloum
Sowing propagation
Generally, once the seeds of a relatively robust Philodendron selloum plant mature, you can take the seeds and cultivate them separately for propagation. The sowing soil is mostly prepared from sandy humus soil plus a small amount of cow manure. When sowing, pay attention to maintaining a suitable temperature, keeping the bed surface temperature and ambient temperature between 25°C-30°C, so the seeds can germinate quickly. If the temperature is too low, seedlings emerge with difficulty.
Division propagation
Generally, on a vigorously growing Philodendron selloum plant, tillers can sprout from the base. When the tiller buds grow to 4-5 leaves and produce adventitious roots, they can be separated from the mother root; that is, after the plant has rooted and the separated tiller buds have recovered a little, they can be planted separately for propagation. With this propagation method, the tiller buds survive very easily.
Cutting propagation
For sandy soil, Philodendron selloum is often propagated by cuttings. The best season for propagation is May to September. Simply put, cut 2-3 nodes of a robust stem and insert it into sphagnum moss or coarse sand to root, keeping the soil moist; roots usually form in 20 days. Alternatively, cut off the upper part of the Philodendron selloum plant for rooting, and the lower old plant will sprout many young shoots, which can also be used for propagation.
Precautions
When sowing, pay attention to the ambient temperature; only within the suitable temperature range can it root quickly.
When dividing, pay attention to maintaining ambient humidity, place it in a cool spot, and raise the ambient humidity. When separating the small offshoots from the old plant, try not to damage the old plant, especially its roots. You can choose to pinch out the growing tip of the side offshoots in advance.
Philodendron selloum Koch Philodendron selloum profile: how to grow Philodendron selloum / how to propagate Philodendron selloum
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Growing methods and precautions for Philodendron selloum: an introduction to Philodendron selloum
Philodendron selloum is a perennial evergreen herbaceous foliage plant.
The stem is extremely short, and the leaves spread out in all directions from the top of the stem, arranged densely and neatly, forming a clumping habit. The petioles are firm and slender, reaching up to 1 m, and the leaf blades are huge, with coarse, deeply pinnatifid lobes, dark green and glossy.
The stem is upright and woody, producing many aerial roots; the plant is tall and can reach more than 1.5 m.
The leaves are clustered and borne at the tip of the stem; the leaf is broadly heart-shaped, the whole leaf deeply pinnatifid like a hand, up to 60 cm long and 40 cm wide, leathery, dark green and glossy; the petiole is firm and slender, reaching 80-100 cm.
Morphological characteristics of Philodendron selloum
Philodendron selloum is a perennial evergreen herbaceous foliage plant. The stem is extremely short, and the leaves spread out in all directions from the top of the stem, arranged densely and neatly, forming a clumping habit. The plant can reach 1 m in height; the stem is thick and upright, up to 10 cm in diameter, with obvious leaf scars and wire-like aerial roots on the stem. The leaves spread out in all directions from the top of the stem, with petioles about 40-50 cm long; the leaf blade is bright and glossy, ovate-heart-shaped, up to 60 cm long and 40 cm wide, but potted plants are usually only about half that size, the whole leaf deeply pinnatifid and leathery. Seedling leaves in the juvenile stage are thinner and triangular; as it grows, the leaves that develop gradually become larger, with more and deeper pinnatifid incisions.
Ecological habits of Philodendron selloum
Philodendron selloum likes a hot and humid environment. It is not strict about light, is not cold-tolerant, and tolerates shade. It can be grown in pots anywhere indoors where the light is not too dim. It likes fertile, loose, well-drained, slightly acidic soil, and the winter temperature should not be lower than 5°C.
It is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. It is relatively shade-tolerant. It is one of the more cold-tolerant species in this genus. The suitable growing temperature is 18-25°C, and in winter it can withstand a low of 2°C, but above 5°C is better. It requires sandy soil.
Cultivation techniques for Philodendron selloum
It is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. It is relatively shade-tolerant. It is one of the more cold-tolerant species in this genus. The suitable growing temperature is 18-25°C, and in winter it can withstand a low of 2°C, but above 5°C is better. It requires sandy soil and is commonly propagated by cuttings. May to September is best: cut 2-3 nodes of a robust stem and insert it directly into sphagnum moss or coarse sand, keep it moist, and roots form in about 20 days. Home-grown plants should be renewed every 3-4 years. Leaf spot disease and scale insects are common. For leaf spot disease, spray a 1000-fold dilution of 50% carbendazim for control; for scale insects, spray a 1000-fold dilution of 50% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate to kill them.
Pot and soil: You can choose a clay pot for planting, and place it inside another pot, which is both attractive and breathable. Since Philodendron selloum likes fertile, loose, well-drained, slightly acidic soil, home cultivation can use a mix of leaf mold, peat soil, garden soil and a small amount of river sand. Depending on the plant's growth, repot once every 2 years or so in spring.
Light and temperature: Philodendron selloum likes warmth, tolerates shade, is not cold-tolerant, and avoids direct strong sunlight. In the hot summer it should be kept in a shaded spot. In winter, it can be placed in a sunny spot. Its suitable growing temperature is 18-25°C, and the overwintering temperature is best above 8°C.
Water and fertilizer: Philodendron selloum likes a humid environment. Normally you can water it with some rice-washing water, and during the growing period keep the potting soil moist. In summer, you can spray water on the leaves or around the flower pot every day to maintain a fresh and humid microclimate.
In winter, as the temperature gradually drops, reduce the frequency of watering. Although Philodendron selloum likes warmth and humidity, it has fairly strong adaptability to the dry indoor environment of northern winters. When potting or repotting, put some hoof and horn pieces or oil residue at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer, and afterward apply liquid fertilizer once a month (such as dilute cake fertilizer water). In winter, apply less or stop fertilizing.
Propagation is by division or cuttings. Generally, on a robustly growing plant, tillers can sprout from the base; after they root, they can be taken off and planted separately. Or cut off the upper part of the plant and root it as a new plant, and the base of the old plant will sprout several young shoots, which can be used for propagation. In tropical regions, fresh seeds can also be used for propagation, with a suitable germination temperature of 25-30°C. The potting mix is commonly made from leaf mold, peat soil and river sand, and sufficient base fertilizer should be applied at each repotting. During the growing season, some light fertilizer can be applied appropriately, but not too much. Normally spray water on the leaves often, and in winter watering should be controlled appropriately. For outdoor care, place it in a shaded spot; indoors it can grow in any position, but a bright spot is better. Pests and diseases are few. In a dry climate, ** it has a certain tolerance to both high and low temperatures. It is not cold-tolerant; in the north it is overwintered indoors in pots, brought inside before Frost's Descent and placed in a sunny spot. As long as the room temperature stays above 8°C, it can overwinter safely. Winter management should control moisture; water when the potting soil looks dry. For mature plants, before bringing them out each year, change to loose, fertile nutrient soil, and put hoof and horn pieces or oil residue in the pot as base fertilizer. In late April, move the flower pot outdoors to a sheltered, sunny spot for care. In summer, high temperatures mean avoiding intense direct sunlight, and shading measures should be taken. Philodendron selloum has a high water demand; in summer water thoroughly twice a day, often spray the leaves, wash the leaf surfaces, and maintain a fresh and humid microclimate. Normally water with rice-washing water or light chicken or fish blood water to increase soil fertility and prevent the potting soil from compacting. Philodendron selloum grows fast; with water, fertilizer, light and temperature well adjusted, it can grow 375 leaves in a year.
Planting key points
It is mainly the soil or the plant's roots.
First, watering must not be too frequent; excessive waterlogging will cause this.
Second, check whether the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot drains effectively; if not, change the soil and cover it again with a small tile piece or window screen.
Third, if there are too many earthworms in the soil, this can also happen.
Fourth, the growing environment: is it too closed and shady, with light that is too dim?
If the upper part has not completely rotted, you can cut it off, remove the rotted part, and replant it in new sandy soil. Also remove most of the lower leaves, keeping only the upper 2 leaves, and cut all the leaves into "half leaves" to reduce water transpiration. Place it in semi-shade, often spray water on the leaves or the growing environment, but the potting soil is best watered by the wet-dry cycle, not too frequently.
Management
The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 5°C. Avoid strong light; the suitable growing temperature is 20°C-30°C, and it begins to grow at around 10°C. It is best placed in semi-shade, and in summer avoid direct scorching sunlight to prevent burning the leaves. During the growing period, keep the soil moist often, and avoid it being too dry. Use frequent spraying of the leaves and watering of the ground to increase ambient humidity, and try to maintain a ventilated, warm, semi-shady environment. In addition, Golden Diamond is best placed away from radiators and air-conditioning vents, because the air in these places is too dry and water evaporates quickly, very easily causing the leaves to dry up. When the air is dry in summer and autumn, you should also spray the plant to keep it moist and cool it down. It likes fertilizer; during the peak growing season for Golden Diamond from May to September, apply fertilizer water 1-2 times a month. Avoid applying only nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the petioles will become slender and weak and will not stand upright, which affects the ornamental effect. In other seasons, also apply as little fertilizer as possible. Watering should be flexible: in the dry seasons of spring and summer, keep the soil moist, while in autumn and winter follow the wet-dry cycle. On a well-grown Golden Diamond, some brown-red roots will appear at the rhizome and quickly grow new shoots; at this point you can divide the pot in time. During the dividing process, be very careful to avoid damaging the main roots. Plant the divided seedlings separately in loose, fertile sandy soil, then place them in a semi-shady spot indoors, and be careful to spray water often to prevent the seedlings from wilting; after a week gradually reduce the frequency of spraying. In about half a month the seedlings will roughly be able to survive, and normal care can begin.
Precautions
The temperature needs to be kept at around 20°C, not lower than 10°C, and it should also be kept away from radiators, air conditioners and cold drafts.
The air humidity needs to be kept between 50-75%; below 50% the leaves easily turn yellow and the edges dry out. Humidity is often increased by spraying and sprinkling water.
It likes light but avoids direct intense light; the growing environment is best kept in semi-shade or under scattered light, and it should not be placed in a shaded environment for a long time, otherwise the leaves very easily turn yellow.
Fertilize on the principle of light fertilizer applied frequently, and mainly with nitrogen fertilizer.
Watering is best done when the surface of the potting soil looks dry; in the high-temperature period of summer it can be kept moist, and in winter, if the ambient temperature is below 15°C, waterings should alternate between dry and wet.
Diseases are mainly those caused by unsuitable care or environment, which can generally be prevented through good care management; when disease occurs, spraying carbendazim, chlorothalonil, etc. can control it. The main pest is red spider mite, generally caused by dry air; spraying water frequently and wiping the leaves can effectively prevent it. When pests are present, specialized pesticides such as dicofol need to be sprayed for control.
Growing methods for Philodendron selloum
Golden Diamond likes a warm, humid, semi-shady environment and fears severe cold; the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 5°C;
Light: avoid strong light; the suitable growing temperature is 20°C-30°C, and it begins to grow at around 10°C;
Soil: not demanding; it grows best in sandy loam rich in humus and well drained. For potting, a nutrient soil mixed from peat and perlite is often used.
It is best placed in semi-shade, and in summer avoid direct scorching sunlight. During the growing period, keep the soil moist often and avoid it being too dry; place it away from radiators and air-conditioning vents.
Prevent leaf yellowing, pests and diseases. Diseases are mainly caused by unsuitable care or environment and can generally be prevented through good care management; for pests such as red spider mite, spraying water frequently and wiping the leaves can effectively prevent them. Spraying specialized pesticides can control them.
Common leaf problems and their causes: the main causes of leaf yellowing in Golden Diamond Philodendron are unsuitable temperature, low humidity, unsuitable light, excessive fertilization, too frequent watering, and damage from pests and diseases.
Philodendron selloum has luxuriant plants and large, unusual leaves. The leaf color is emerald green and glossy, and it is relatively shade-tolerant, making it one of the most widely used indoor foliage plants in homes and public places today. It can be potted and placed in spacious spots such as living rooms and lobbies, or small plants can be grown hydroponically and placed on desks and windowsills.
Philodendron selloum has relatively large leaves, and the petiole plus leaf can reach more than 1 m long. It usually blooms in spring, with a spathe shape, and its ornamental value is not high; it is mainly grown for its foliage. It is not demanding about soil, but grows best in loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil.
Philodendron selloum is native to the tropical rainforests of Brazil in South America. It likes a warm, humid, semi-shady environment and is not strict about light, but it does not tolerate long-term shaded conditions, otherwise the leaf color becomes lighter, the petioles lengthen, and the leaves droop, reducing its ornamental value. It also fears direct intense sunlight; after exposure to intense light, the leaves very easily develop dry leaf tips, scorched leaf margins, and whitened, lusterless leaf color, so it is best cared for in semi-shade or scattered light. In winter it can be cared for with ample light to help it overwinter safely.
Philodendron selloum is a tropical plant and does not tolerate severe cold or low temperatures. In winter the temperature is best kept above 10°C to prevent cold damage. The optimum growing temperature is between 18-30°C; when the temperature is above 30°C growth is inhibited, and ventilation and cooling plus more frequent spraying are needed to increase the relative air humidity. During normal growth, keeping humidity at around 50% is enough to meet its needs; when the temperature is above 25°C, the air humidity needs to be raised to around 70%.
The leaves of Philodendron selloum are large and thin and have relatively high water requirements. During the growth cycle the potting soil needs to stay moist, especially in the high-temperature period of summer when it must not lack water. When the temperature is below 15°C, reduce the frequency of watering, and the potting soil can simply alternate between dry and wet. It can tolerate brief waterlogging, but long-term water accumulation easily rots the roots and causes the plant to die.
In late spring Philodendron selloum enters its vigorous growth period and needs fertilizer mainly based on nitrogen to grow quickly and recover its vigor. Fertilize on the principle of light fertilizer applied
frequently, and do not apply it all at once and cause fertilizer burn. If during the growing period you use dilute light fertilizer water instead of clear water to water the potting soil, it will grow even better. After entering autumn, control the amount of nitrogen fertilizer applied, otherwise it is not good for overwintering, the petioles will also lengthen, and the plant shape cannot be effectively controlled. In winter, when the temperature is below 20°C, stop fertilizing. Philodendron selloum is mostly propagated by cuttings, sowing and division; at home it is best to use cuttings and division, as the operations are relatively simple. For cutting propagation, May to September is suitable: cut a robust, relatively long stem and insert it directly into clean river sand, place it in semi-shade, keep the air humidity high, and keep the temperature at around 25°C; roots form in 20-25 days. Division propagation requires small plants to have grown at the base of the old plant; this can be done together with changing the soil and repotting. Carefully separate the small plants from the old plant, trying not to damage the old plant or its roots. You can also pinch out the growing tip of the side plants in advance, which both dwarfs the plant and produces more side plants. When the new side plants are about 15 cm, cut them off with their aerial roots and plant them separately.
Propagation methods for Philodendron selloum
Propagation is by division or cuttings.
Generally, on a robustly growing plant, tillers can sprout from the base; after they root, they can be taken off and planted separately. Or cut off the upper part of the plant and root it as a new plant, and the base of the old plant will sprout several young shoots, which can be used for propagation. In tropical regions, fresh seeds can also be used for propagation, with a suitable germination temperature of 25-30°C. The potting mix is commonly made from leaf mold, peat soil and river sand, and sufficient base fertilizer should be applied at each repotting.
During the growing season, some light fertilizer can be applied appropriately, but not too much. Normally spray water on the leaves often, and in winter watering should be controlled appropriately. For outdoor care, place it in a shaded spot; indoors it can grow in any position, but a bright spot is better. Pests and diseases are few.
Disease control for Philodendron selloum
Common diseases of Philodendron selloum include leaf spot disease and anthracnose, which can be controlled with wettable powders such as carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl and zineb, with obvious results. If leaves are yellow, withered or scorched, prune them in time to reduce nutrient loss. The main pests are red spider mite and scale insects, which can be controlled by spraying specialized pesticides. In addition, red spider mite can be prevented by increasing air humidity, and scale insects by improving ventilation.
Control methods
The main causes of leaf yellowing in Golden Diamond Philodendron are: unsuitable temperature, low humidity, unsuitable light, excessive fertilization, too frequent watering, and damage from pests and diseases.
Potting soil causes
1. Nitrogen deficiency in the potting soil: leaves are small, the leaf color is pale yellow, the lower leaves yellow first, and the whole plant gradually loses its green color, with the lower part more yellow and pale;
2. Phosphorus deficiency in the potting soil: leaves curl, the leaf color is dark green, and the areas between the veins of the lower leaves turn yellow;
3. Potassium deficiency in the potting soil: the edges of the lower leaves turn brown and the plant easily lodges;
4. Magnesium deficiency in the potting soil: the edges and centers of the leaves lose their green color and turn white from bottom to top;
5. Iron deficiency in the potting soil: scorched brown spots appear and dry up.
Other causes
1. In most cases it is water-yellowing caused by improper water and fertilizer, that is, watering too much causes the soil to stay waterlogged and wet for a long time, with poor aeration and even partial rotting of the fibrous roots. It shows as young leaves being dull yellow and lusterless and new shoots shrinking;
2. Fertilizer-yellowing, that is, too much fertilizer, shows as the tips of old leaves turning yellow and falling off, while new leaves, though thick and glossy, are generally uneven and not spread out. If it is a valuable flower, you can sprinkle a layer of pak choi or radish seeds, and after they sprout for a few days pull them out to consume nutrients;
3. Drought-yellowing: because of long-term failure to water thoroughly or dehydration, the new leaves look normal in color, but the lower leaves gradually dry, yellow and fall off from bottom to top as they age;
4. Alkaline-yellowing: some southern flowers especially like acidic soil, and when the water quality in the north is on the alkaline side, the leaves gradually fade, turn yellow and even fall off. The simplest solution is to water with fermented rice-washing water or rainwater.
Distribution area of Philodendron selloum
Native to Brazil, Paraguay and other places. It is cultivated in the subtropical evergreen broad-leaved regions of southern China.
Adapted regions: the southern subtropical evergreen broad-leaved forest region of southern China (main cities: Fuzhou, Xiamen, Quanzhou, Zhangzhou, Guangzhou, Foshan, Shunde, Dongguan, Huizhou, Shantou, Taipei, Liuzhou, Guiping, Gejiu)
Tropical monsoon forest and rainforest region (main cities: Haikou, Sanya, Qionghai, Kaohsiung, Tainan, Shenzhen, Zhanjiang, Zhongshan, Zhuhai, Macao, China, Hong Kong, China, Nanning, Qinzhou, Beihai, Maoming, Jinghong)
Uses and ornamental value of Philodendron selloum
Philodendron selloum has huge leaves with coarse, deeply pinnatifid lobes. They are dark green and full of luster, the petioles are long and thick, and the aerial roots are extremely developed and drooping. The plant shape is graceful, and the overall ornamental effect is good. At the same time it is shade-tolerant, making it an excellent indoor shade-loving foliage plant. It is suitable for decorating hotel lobbies, indoor gardens, offices, and home living rooms and studies. In rooms with relatively strong light it can be placed for several months without the plant's growth being greatly affected; in darker rooms it can also be enjoyed for 2-3 weeks. It is also often used as a large potted plant, and looks very spectacular displayed in halls.
Decorative applications
Philodendron selloum has unusual leaf form and is very shade-tolerant, suitable for indoor hall displays, and especially suitable for decorating music tea houses and hotel lounges.
Philodendron selloum pictures