How to Make a Spider Plant (Green-Leaf Chlorophytum) Quickly Produce Plantlets? Master Water, Fertilizer, Light and Temperature Management
For those who have seen the green-leaf spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), it should leave a deep impression: its leaves are fresh emerald green and orchid-like in shape, making it a beautiful foliage plant. However, getting the green-leaf spider plant to look good, especially to quickly produce plantlets, is not an easy task~ So how can the green-leaf spider plant quickly grow plantlets? On this
For those who have seen the green-leaf spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), it should leave a deep impression: its leaves are fresh emerald green and orchid-like in shape, making it a beautiful foliage plant. However, getting the green-leaf spider plant to look good, especially to quickly produce plantlets, is not an easy task~ So how can the green-leaf spider plant quickly grow plantlets? For this, the editor has summarized 5 tips, come in and take a look!
I. Reasons Why the Green-Leaf Spider Plant Fails to Produce Plantlets
According to the editor's research, there are three main reasons why the green-leaf spider plant fails to produce plantlets: watering too frequently causes the leaves to turn yellow, too much light causes the leaves to be scorched, and over-fertilizing makes it difficult for the plant to send up stalks. So if you want the green-leaf spider plant to quickly produce plantlets, besides strictly following the green-leaf spider plant's cultivation method for care, you also need to master some small tips; let's continue reading for the specifics.
II. How the Green-Leaf Spider Plant Can Quickly Produce Plantlets
1. Reduce Nitrogen Fertilizer, Increase Potassium Fertilizer
① Reduce nitrogen fertilizer: For the green-leaf spider plant to produce plantlets, the key lies in the rhizome, so when fertilizing, gardeners should reduce nitrogen fertilizer. The reason is that nitrogen fertilizer only promotes leaf growth, whereas producing plantlets requires promoting rhizome growth. So in order for plantlets to send out shoots, nitrogen fertilizer needs to be reduced.
② Increase potassium fertilizer: Producing plantlets requires reducing nitrogen fertilizer, and for the green-leaf spider plant to quickly produce plantlets, potassium fertilizer is needed. This is because potassium fertilizer is the main component that promotes plant rhizome growth, so we need to fertilize correctly; especially during the plantlet cultivation period, we need to increase the amount of potassium fertilizer applied.
2. Water Moderately
The green-leaf spider plant likes a humid environment, so to make it quickly produce plantlets, we need to water it frequently and spray it with water often. However, the green-leaf spider plant dislikes waterlogging, so never water too much, otherwise root rot will set in and it will be finished; by then, plantlets definitely will not grow.
Water moderately: So how can the green-leaf spider plant quickly produce plantlets? Very simple, just water more: during the growing season, water once every 1 to 2 days; in autumn, water 2 to 3 times a week; in winter, water once every half a month.
3. Sufficient Light
For the green-leaf spider plant to quickly produce plantlets, it cannot do without sufficient light duration. For this, gardeners can adjust the placement of the green-leaf spider plant, putting it on a balcony or next to a window, so that it can receive sufficient light. However, what everyone should focus on is that the light intensity must not be too high.
4. Adjust the Temperature
How can the green-leaf spider plant quickly produce plantlets? Properly adjusting the temperature is crucial. It is understood that the green-leaf spider plant likes a warm environment, and its most suitable growing temperature is 15-25°C. Keep it in a place with a suitable temperature for a long time, and the green-leaf spider plant will quickly produce plantlets. On the contrary, too high a temperature will scorch the leaves, and too low a temperature will cause frost damage; either result may prevent plantlets from growing.
5. Change the Potting Soil
As the cultivation time increases, the potting soil of the green-leaf spider plant will lose nutrients, so gardeners should repot it in a timely manner. As for the specific timing, the editor suggests it is best to repot once a year, which can maintain the soil's nutrients and help the plantlets send out shoots.
What to Do When the Green-Leaf Spider Plant's Leaves Turn Yellow: Learn 5 Tricks to Easily Solve It / Water and Fertilizer Are Key
In daily life, many households keep a pot of green-leaf spider plant, not only for its ability to absorb formaldehyde, but also to admire its beautiful leaves. So when problems appear with the leaves, such as yellowing, gardeners must be very anxious! So what should be done when the green-leaf spider plant's leaves turn yellow? For this, the editor has summarized 5 reasons why the green-leaf spider plant's leaves turn yellow; gardeners with this problem must take a look~
I. When the Green-Leaf Spider Plant's Leaves Turn Yellow, Find the Cause
As a type of spider plant, the green-leaf spider plant's cultivation method is not difficult; as long as you care for it carefully according to the method, it will not develop problems. But because most growers are beginners, they simply do not spend time caring for it, and as a result, leaf yellowing easily occurs. As for what to do when the green-leaf spider plant's leaves turn yellow, the editor has summarized 5 reasons and attached remedies; let's continue reading.
II. Reasons for Yellowing and Softening Leaves of the Green-Leaf Spider Plant and Remedies
1. Sudden Environmental Change
There are many aspects to the reasons for the green-leaf spider plant's leaves turning yellow, but the first thing everyone should consider is the environmental issue. Nowadays, many of the gardeners' green-leaf spider plants are bought online, which easily creates a large regional span, causing too many environmental changes at once; the green-leaf spider plant cannot adapt for a while, resulting in yellowing leaves.
Remedy: Very simple, ask the shop about the green-leaf spider plant's previous growing environment, then adjust the environment at home until the green-leaf spider plant fully adapts. After normal care for a period of time, the plant's leaves will recover.
2. Insufficient Light
① Insufficient light: Although the green-leaf spider plant likes semi-shade, it still needs at least 4 hours or more of indirect light exposure every day. Once the light is insufficient, the chlorophyll in the green-leaf spider plant's leaves will decrease, and the result is that the leaves gradually turn yellow. Remedy: Just supplement light, but the light must not be too strong; it is best if the shade degree is above 50%.
② Too much light: Although the green-leaf spider plant likes light, it dislikes direct strong light. Once exposed to the strong sun, its leaves will be scorched, thus showing symptoms of yellowing. Remedy: Move the green-leaf spider plant to a ventilated place with indirect light; after letting it rest for half a day, water it moderately, and with careful care for a few days it will recover its health.
3. Too Much Watering
The green-leaf spider plant likes a humid environment, so we need to water it more to keep the potting soil moist. But the green-leaf spider plant equally dislikes waterlogging; once watered too much and water accumulates in the pot, the plant's root system will have difficulty breathing, causing the leaves to turn yellow.
Remedy: ① If the water accumulation is caused by poor air permeability and drainage of the potting soil, everyone should loosen the soil in time or repot with new soil; ② If it is caused by too much watering, gardeners need to move the potted plant to a ventilated place with indirect light to let the water evaporate quickly. Once root rot appears, take it out of the pot, cut off the rotted roots, then repot with new soil and replant.
4. Over-Fertilizing
The growth of the green-leaf spider plant requires sufficient nutrients, which can make it grow better. But fertilizing cannot be excessive; once it is too much, it will burn the roots, and once the root system rots, it easily causes the leaves to turn yellow.
Remedy: Stop fertilizing, water with plenty of clear water, or repot and clean the roots, replacing with new soil.
5. No Repotting or Soil Change for a Long Time
The green-leaf spider plant likes fertile soil, but after being cultivated for a long time, the fertilizer in the soil will be completely lost. And once there has been no repotting or soil change for a long time, the various nutrient elements contained in the potting soil will be used up; if the three elements nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are also not replenished in time, the plant will show yellow, thin leaves due to lack of nutrients.
Remedy: Very simple, replace it in time with fertile loam, then apply an appropriate amount of alum fertilizer water.
Overall, although the green-leaf spider plant is easy to grow, if everyone is not attentive, it will also develop problems. But after reading the whole article, I believe everyone has a clearer idea; if yellowing leaves appear, just remedy it according to the above methods. Regarding the yellowing and softening leaves of the green-leaf spider plant, the editor will introduce it here, hoping to bring everyone help.
Pothos Epipremnum aureum (Scindapsus aureus) Pothos Illustrated Guide: How to Grow Pothos / How to Propagate Pothos
Pothos ProfilePothos Epipremnum aureum (Scindapsus aureus)
Aliases: Devil's Ivy, Shiganzi, Zhuyiehezi, Golden Pothos, Golden Vine, Shiganzi
Classification: Climbing Flower
Family and Genus: Plantae, Angiosperms, Monocotyledons, Alismatales, Araceae, Epipremnum
Full Bloom Period: Does not bloom
Pothos, also known as Golden Pothos, Devil's Ivy, Golden Vine, etc., is a plant of the genus Epipremnum in the Araceae family. Native to tropical rainforest regions, it is an evergreen climbing plant of the Araceae family. Its green leaves have yellow patches; it has strong twining ability and aerial roots, usually with hanging branches, and its leaves are heart-shaped, emerald green and glossy, interspersed with yellow patches, pleasing to the eye. Pothos has high ornamental value, and people often make it into pothos poles, wall hangings, hanging baskets, water cuttings, and rockery decorations, etc. Its trailing stems naturally hang down, and it can both purify the air and make full use of space, adding lively lines and bright colors to dull cabinet surfaces. It is known as the "land, sea, and air plant..."
Pothos Cultivation Methods and Precautions: Introduction to Pothos
Pothos, also known as Golden Pothos, Devil's Ivy, Golden Vine, etc., is a plant of the genus Epipremnum in the Araceae family. Native to tropical rainforest regions, it is an evergreen climbing plant of the Araceae family. Its green leaves have yellow patches; it has strong twining ability and aerial roots, usually with hanging branches, and its leaves are heart-shaped, emerald green and glossy, interspersed with yellow patches, pleasing to the eye.
Pothos has high ornamental value, and people often make it into pothos poles, wall hangings, hanging baskets, water cuttings, and rockery decorations, etc. Its trailing stems naturally hang down, and it can both purify the air and make full use of space, adding lively lines and bright colors to dull cabinet surfaces. It is known as the "land, sea, and air plant."
Pothos grows in tropical regions, often climbing on rocks and tree trunks in rainforests, and can grow into a huge climbing plant. It has strong twining ability and well-developed aerial roots. Pothos belongs to the Araceae family and can be grown hydroponically.
Pothos is native to the tropical rainforest regions of Central and South America. It is an evergreen climbing plant of the Araceae family. Pothos is a plant of the genus Philodendron in the Araceae family and belongs to climbing foliage flowers. It likes warm, humid environments; its vines can reach several meters long, with aerial roots at the nodes, and its leaves grow larger and larger, alternate, and evergreen. Pothos has high ornamental value, and can both purify the air and make full use of space. At present, in various places across the country such as Shanghai, Jiangsu, Fujian, Taiwan, China, Guangdong, and Guangxi, people grow it artificially in gardens and rooms.
Pothos is usually grown indoors in pots, placed in study rooms, living rooms, offices, and other places; it can bring a beautiful visual sense and the effect of purifying the environment. Among large climbing plants, pothos, like spider plants and ivy, all have a powerful air-purifying effect. Because pothos can absorb benzene, formaldehyde, etc. in the air, it is widely planted indoors. It is difficult for plants to move from outdoors to indoors, so next let's learn about pothos cultivation methods and precautions.
Pothos is one of the very excellent indoor decorative plants. Its vines are slender and soft, and its leaves are delicate and elegant. Pothos has strong twining ability and well-developed aerial roots; it can be allowed to climb on a cylinder tied with palm fiber and placed in an entrance hall or hotel, or it can be cultivated into a hanging form and placed in a study or on a windowsill, placed on top of furniture cabinets, letting its trailing stems droop gracefully, or after the trailing stems hang too long, coil them into a ring, just like emerald relief sculpture. Pothos is a flower more suitable for indoor placement.
Morphological Characteristics of Pothos
Pothos is a perennial evergreen climber, with both stems and leaves fleshy, and aerial roots at the nodes. Leaves alternate, ovate-oblong, heart-shaped, waxy, 10-15 cm long, dark green, glossy. There are variegated cultivars inlaid with golden-yellow irregular stripes or spots.
Pothos is a large evergreen herbaceous climbing plant, often climbing on rocks and tree trunks. It can grow up to 20 m tall at most, with a vine diameter of 4 cm, and can reach about 2 m in height when grown indoors. The stems and vines of pothos are thick and strong; the vine can reach several meters long, and the trailing stems can reach more than ten meters, with aerial roots at the nodes.
As pothos ages, its stems thicken and its leaves become larger and larger. Young branches are whip-like and slender, with larger lower leaves, papery, broadly ovate, shortly acuminate, and heart-shaped at the base. On mature branches, the petioles are thick and strong, and the leaves are thinly leathery, emerald green, with irregular pure yellow patches, entire, unequal-sided ovate or ovate-oblong, with an acuminate apex and a deeply heart-shaped base.
The largest leaves can reach 100 cm long and 45 cm wide (young plants are generally below 20 cm). Young leaves are ovate-heart-shaped; newly propagated seedlings have smaller and paler leaves, while mature leaves are long-ovate, about 30 cm long and about 10 cm wide. The dark green leaf surface is inlaid with yellow-white irregular spots or streaks.
Due to differences in fertilizer and water conditions, the size of pothos leaves varies. Pothos has luxuriant branches and leaves, good shade tolerance, is evergreen all year round, and glossy. In winter, outdoor vegetation withers and fades, while indoor pothos remains lush and green, so it is an excellent indoor foliage plant.
Because pothos vines grow relatively quickly, people often cultivate it in a pole-climbing style. That is, erect a support in the center of the flowerpot, wrap some palm fiber around the support, with the support diameter reaching 22-12 cm, then plant 3-4 seedlings in the pot, letting their stems and vines climb around the pole. Some also plant pothos in flowerpots, place them on flower stands, and let their stems and vines hang down like a green curtain, which is quite charming. It also has a certain effect of absorbing formaldehyde and benzene, and when used together with Maya Blue it can achieve a long-lasting protective effect, suitable for planting in places such as homes and offices.
Ecological Habits of Pothos
Pothos likes warm, humid, and semi-shady environments, is sensitive to light, and fears direct strong light. The soil is best if it is fertile leaf mold or peat soil, and the winter temperature should not be lower than 15°C.
Pothos is a shade-loving plant, avoids direct sunlight, and likes shade. When cultivated indoors, it can be placed beside a window, but direct sunlight must be avoided. Too strong sunlight will scorch pothos leaves, while too shady conditions will make the beautiful markings on the leaf surface disappear. Usually, receiving four hours of indirect light is best for pothos growth and development.
Pothos likes warm, humid environments and requires loose, fertile soil with good drainage. Potted pothos should use fertile, loose, well-drained leaf mold, preferably slightly acidic. Pothos is extremely shade-tolerant and can be placed in a sunny spot indoors in all four seasons. In dimmer indoor rooms, it should be moved every half a month to a brighter environment to recover for a period of time, otherwise the internodes easily elongate and the leaves become smaller. Pothos likes hot and humid environments; the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C, the potting soil should remain moist, and the leaf surface should be sprayed with water often to increase air humidity and benefit the growth of aerial roots. During the vigorous growing period, apply liquid fertilizer once a month. For plants viewed indoors for a long time, the leaves at the base of the stems easily fall off, reducing ornamental value; in May and June when the temperature warms up, pruning and renewal can be carried out together with cuttings to promote new buds from the basal stems.
It likes warm, humid environmental conditions, likes shade, and avoids strong light. It is heat-tolerant, moisture-tolerant, and not cold-tolerant. It likes soil rich in humus, loose, fertile, and slightly acidic.
Pothos is sensitive to temperature and avoids direct sunlight in summer; under strong light, the leaves easily turn yellow and fall off, so shade should be provided when outdoors in summer. In winter, it can grow well under bright indirect light indoors, with sturdy nodes and brilliant leaf color. During the growing period, it has relatively high water requirements. In addition to normally replenishing water to the potting soil, the leaf surface should also be sprayed often; for pole-climbing cultivation, more water should also be sprayed on the palm fiber pole so that the palm fiber fully absorbs water for the aerial roots winding around the stem to absorb. Apply a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer once every 2 weeks, or spray a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution weekly, to make the leaves emerald green and the markings more vivid.
Cultivation Techniques for Pothos
Pothos is very robust and can be potted indoors in all four seasons, and can be placed for a long time in a bright sunny spot in the pot. If kept in a dark place for a long time, the leaves will become smaller and the internodes longer; for colored-leaf varieties, the leaf color will fade, affecting ornamental value. In summer, it needs to spend time in a semi-shady environment, avoiding direct sunlight.
The suitable growth temperature is about 25°C during the day, and in winter the suitable temperature should be maintained at 10-13°C, generally not lower than 7°C. In the warm winter areas of South China and Southwest China, it can be cultivated in the open field.
Pothos likes hot and humid environments, and needs frequent spraying of water on the leaf surface and ground while keeping the potting soil moist. During the growing season, apply a compound fertilizer about once every 2 weeks.
It is often potted, and can also be used as a hanging basket or planted in indoor planting troughs. Generally, a support is erected in the pot so that its vines can climb on it; it is best to use dead wood covered with moss or snake wood (the trunk of tree ferns), and a wire mesh can also be made into a cylinder for planting. If planted in a hanging basket or planting trough, generally its stems and vines are allowed to hang freely without erecting a support. Usually repot once every 2-3 years. In May-June each year, carry out appropriate pruning and renewal to promote new branches from the basal stems and make the clump more luxuriant. The culture soil is best as a mixture of leaf mold and garden soil; it can also grow in water culture.
Characteristics
(1) Pothos is generally shipped from Guangzhou to all parts of the country and bought back in winter; pothos has usually been frozen, so when placed indoors it will
show rapid yellowing of leaves, etc. After these frozen leaves completely yellow and fall off, they will still regrow after the Spring Festival.
(2) Generally, newly bought pothos has an adaptation period of about 1 month in the new environment, and yellow leaves at the bottom are normal. However, remember: do not directly peel off yellow or dead leaves; cut them off from the middle of the petiole. This avoids excessive water loss and added wounds caused by direct peeling, which would otherwise cause the upper leaves to also turn yellow.
(3) Pothos is not afraid of shade, but it also cannot be grown well in a very dark environment! You can periodically move its position to a place with good light (but it cannot be exposed to the sun).
(4) To grow pothos well, appropriate ventilation is also needed.
(5) When watering, you can wet the pole; the top is all aerial roots. From time to time, spray a little nitrogen fertilizer on the leaves, and water the soil with a little diluted ferrous sulfate solution.
(6) If the leaves have already turned very yellow, be sure to control watering; too much or too little watering is both bad. At this time, place the pothos in a well-ventilated place with light.
(7) Pothos fears freezing; after freezing it will turn black until death.
(8) When the pothos has grown very long and climbed over
Precautions
For planting pothos, the soil requirements are already an old topic: the soil should be mainly fertile, loose leaf mold with good drainage, and appropriately slightly acidic soil works best. In darker rooms, some lights should be turned on, which helps plant growth.
1. Water more. Pothos likes to live in humid environments, so watering more is best. In summer, when the weather is hot and water dissipates quickly, besides watering more, you should also spray water on the leaf surface. The amount of watering depends on the potting soil; larger pothos plants should be watered more.
2. Avoid exposure to the sun. Pothos grows in shaded places under large trees, so it is a shade-loving plant and cannot be exposed to the sun, otherwise newly sprouted leaves will lose water and become smaller, with dull color, and the leaf edges are easily scorched. It only needs to be provided with enough sunlight for photosynthesis.
3. Appropriate temperature. Although pothos does not like the scorching sun, it is still very sensitive to temperature; if the temperature is too low, it is easily frostbitten. A room temperature of about 20°C is enough. If heating equipment is used, pothos leaves should not be too close to it. Keep the indoor temperature above 10°C, and pothos can safely pass the winter.
4. Fertilizing. Because it is grown indoors, pothos absorbs less nutrients than outdoors. It is recommended to apply fertilizer once every half a month; you can buy fertilizer specially for pothos on the market. Or ask the flower shop owner to help choose fertilizer.
5. Maintain air humidity. Pothos grows faster in environments with higher air humidity. It is recommended to maintain indoor humidity, and a humidifier can be used to increase air humidity. The specific method is to spray water around the pothos.
Daily Management
Hydroponic pothos is generally placed in a sunny indoor spot; growth there can maintain a warm temperature and relatively good light to promote plant growth. In addition, it cannot directly receive sunlight. In winter, especially in northern China where winter is very cold, insulation measures should be taken appropriately at this time. At different growth stages of hydroponic pothos, additional fertilization should be carried out according to growth needs to ensure nutrient supply. Hydroponic pothos has relatively high water requirements, so the soil should be kept moist; water generously once a month, and the leaves can be wiped every day to keep them fresh. Regularly prune hydroponic pothos to keep the branches and leaves shapely and emerald green, and prevent and treat pests and diseases.
What You Need to Know About Pothos Cultivation Methods
In principle, pothos likes moisture. During the growing season, watering should keep the potting soil moist regularly. In summer, while watering fully, also pay attention to frequently spraying water on the leaf surface. Whether to water every day will be affected by many conditions, such as the amount of potting soil, plant size, pot material, care environment, and so on; water consumption varies greatly, and it needs to be grasped specifically according to the above principles.
Pothos must not be watered with rice-washing water. Although rice-washing water contains many nutrients that can be used, it must be composted, fermented, and decomposed before use; otherwise it will not only easily breed insects, but in serious cases also cause root rot.
Pothos has relatively strong shade tolerance, and can be kept indoors year-round in home cultivation. If placed outdoors for cultivation, pay attention to shading, especially in summer, and even more attention should be paid to preventing direct strong light; otherwise it will cause new leaves to become smaller, leaf color to be dull, and leaf edges to be easily scorched.
Tips
1. Pothos develops best when cultivated in loose, organic-rich, slightly acidic to neutral sandy loam. Repot once every three years. Pothos is a shade-loving plant, avoids direct sunlight, likes indirect light, and is relatively shade-tolerant; usually receiving four hours of indirect light is best.
2. Propagation uses cuttings and stem burial methods. Select robust pothos vines and cut them into sections of two nodes each, being careful not to damage the aerial roots. Spray with Xinguozhimo to retain moisture, raising the survival rate to above 90%.
3. Pothos likes relatively high air humidity and a humid environment. Midsummer is the peak growth period for pothos; every day, spray water several times on the aerial roots and leaf surface. This can both wash dust off the leaves, helping pothos breathe, and keep the leaf color emerald green; it can also lower the leaf surface temperature and increase the air humidity of the micro-environment, allowing the leaves to grow better. For pothos fertilization, nitrogen fertilizer is primary and potassium fertilizer is supplementary. Spray Xinguozhimo to retain fertilizer and moisture. In winter, when room temperature is relatively low, pothos is in a dormant state, so water less; just keep the potting soil from drying out.
4. The most suitable growth temperature for pothos is 18°C-21°C during the day and 20°C-23°C at night. In winter, as long as the indoor temperature is not lower than 15°C, pothos can safely overwinter; if the temperature is below 10°C, it easily causes leaf drop and affects growth. During the growing period, spray Zhuangjingling in a timely manner, which can make the plant stems thick and strong, the leaves thick, the leaf color fresh and tender, and the plant luxuriant.
Characteristics
(1) Pothos is generally shipped from Guangzhou to all parts of the country and bought back in winter; pothos has usually been frozen, so when placed indoors it will show rapid yellowing of leaves, etc. After these frozen leaves completely yellow and fall off, they will still regrow after the Spring Festival.
(2) Generally, newly bought pothos has an adaptation period of about 1 month in the new environment, and yellow leaves at the bottom are normal. However, remember: do not directly peel off yellow or dead leaves; cut them off from the middle of the petiole. This avoids excessive water loss and added wounds caused by direct peeling, which would otherwise cause the upper leaves to also turn yellow.
(3) Pothos is not afraid of shade, but it also cannot be grown well in a very dark environment! You can periodically move its position to a place with good light (but it cannot be exposed to the sun).
(4) To grow pothos well, appropriate ventilation is also needed.
(5) When watering, you can wet the pole; the top is all aerial roots. From time to time, spray a little nitrogen fertilizer on the leaves, and water the soil with a little diluted ferrous sulfate solution.
(6) If the leaves have already turned very yellow, be sure to control watering; too much or too little watering is both bad. At this time, place the pothos in a well-ventilated place with light.
(7) Pothos fears freezing; after freezing it will turn black until death.
(8) When the pothos has grown very long and climbs over the top of the pole, cut it off, or turn the head downward and let it climb downward; that is also fine. Do not let it grow chaotically at will.
(9) It can climb and grow, suitable for beautifying indoor and outdoor walls, staircases, etc.
Cultivation
Pothos has vigorous vitality. From a luxuriant pot of pothos, you can break off 3-5 stem sections and put them into a bottle filled with 500 ml of clear water, add 2-3 drops of "water-fish co-cultivation" nutrient solution, and new roots can grow in a week. Change the water once every 10 days, and gently wash the roots by hand to prevent root rot; if during the 10 days the water evaporates or is insufficient, add new clear water without washing.
Pothos grows relatively quickly and cultivation management is extensive. During cultivation and management, in summer more water should be sprayed on the plant, and foliar fertilization should be carried out once every 10 days to keep the leaves green. For potted seedlings, when the seedlings grow 30 cm above the cultivation pole, they should be cut off; when the lower leaves have fallen off by 30%-50%, they should be discarded and replanted. Green-pole potted plants are ideal plants for greening courtyard gateposts and walls, and their leaves are also excellent foliage for flower arrangements.
Key Points of Cultivation
Extensive management: choose a plot with fertile soil for cultivation, water thoroughly after planting, and spray to retain moisture. In autumn, during dry weather seasons, spray 2-3 times a day; if the air is too dry, the leaf color becomes dull and lusterless. It likes sufficient indirect light; if too dark, the stripes become darker and ornamental value decreases. It does not have high fertilizer requirements; fertilize 2-3 times during the growing season, mainly with nitrogen fertilizer.
Protection
Pothos likes hot and humid conditions, and the best growth temperature is 20°C to 30°C. Creating a suitable growing environment for it in winter becomes the key to the success or failure of care. In terms of care, the following aspects should be noted:
Light: Pothos does not have strong heliotropism, but in winter, in order to supplement the lack of temperature and photosynthesis, its light should be increased. The method is to place the pothos in the spot with the best indoor light, or move it to a sealed balcony to bask in the sun at noon. At the same time, when the temperature is low, open windows as little as possible, because in an extremely short time the leaves may be frostbitten.
Temperature: In the north, with an indoor temperature above 10°C, pothos can safely overwinter; with an indoor temperature above 20°C, pothos can grow normally. Generally, households have no big problem reaching this temperature. What needs attention is avoiding too large a temperature difference, and also noting that the leaves should not be close to heating equipment.
Humidity: Under the condition of ensuring normal temperature, increasing humidity is extremely beneficial to plant growth. The following methods can be used to increase humidity: keep the plant close to a humidifier, with the humidifier turned on for more than 5 hours a day; use a sprayer adjusted to the mist setting to spray water on the plant's leaves, stems, and aerial roots several times a day; keep an appropriate amount of water in the flowerpot saucer, and increase the local humidity of the plant through its evaporation; gently wipe the leaf surface with a cold wet towel or toilet paper, or briefly apply it to the leaf surface for a short time (1-2 hours per day); cover the plant with a transparent plastic film to create a small greenhouse effect, supplementing the plant's water through evaporation of water vapor from the soil, for no more than 2 hours a day; too long a time will affect the plant's ventilation and photosynthesis.
Water: In winter, the amount of watering should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. After heating is turned on, watering should not be too frequent either; when watering, pour less into the pot and let the water seep through the coir. In addition, water should also be sprayed on the aerial roots on the coir pole to reduce insufficient root water uptake caused by excessively rapid evaporation. For winter watering, water that has been left to stand for a day is better; water that is too cold easily damages the roots.
Fertilizer: In winter, plants grow slowly, so fertilize less. After the beginning of winter, foliar spraying should be the main method of fertilization. Special-purpose fertilizer should be used for foliar feeding; ordinary inorganic fertilizers are not easily absorbed. Foliar fertilizers such as the Beida Flower Guardian series and Japan-made Hana Ichiban can be used.
Notes
Like peace lily (Spathiphyllum), pothos (Epipremnum aureum) belongs to the Araceae family, and its toxic part is mainly in its sap.
It is a fact that pothos is toxic, but keeping it at home is no problem, because as long as the sap is not eaten, it will not cause poisoning. Although the sap of pothos is toxic, it is only mildly toxic; during cultivation, even if you touch the leaves of pothos, as long as you do not directly eat them, it will not affect your body. In addition, many people today grow pothos hydroponically; if you touch the water in which it is grown, as long as you do not drink it, there is generally no harm.
Of course, accidental ingestion is one aspect, and contact is also an issue to watch out for when growing it. As a plant with mildly toxic sap, accidental ingestion may cause allergic reactions. Therefore, during everyday cultivation, everyone should be especially careful not to put it in the mouth, and it is best not to let food come into contact with pothos. Regarding the effects of pothos sap on the body, experts say that the sap of pothos is toxic; whether adults or children, skin contact may cause redness, swelling and itching, and accidental ingestion may also cause sore throat. For toxic plants such as pothos, the toxins mainly come from the sap in the plant's stems and stalks; even if they are grown at home or in the office, as long as you do not directly touch the sap with your hands, it will not cause poisoning.
From this it can be seen that pothos can be grown, and according to horticultural experts, plants such as pothos and peace lily actually do more good than harm for residents: although their sap is toxic, they can absorb formaldehyde, and their air-purifying effect is also very good. So there is no need to "turn pale at the mention of poison," nor to think that because they are toxic they should not be grown. Moreover, keeping pothos at home is very useful for purifying the home environment, so everyone can still choose to grow pothos at home.
Specifics
(1) Light: The original growing conditions of pothos are in forests shaded by towering trees, so its tendency toward light is not strong. But in the north in autumn and winter, in order to make up for the lack of temperature and photosynthesis, its light exposure should be increased. At the same time, when the temperature is low, open windows as little as possible, because in a very short time the leaves may be frostbitten.
(2) Temperature: In the north, pothos can safely overwinter when room temperature is above 10°C.
(3) Humidity: This refers to the moisture content of the air in the plant's growing environment. Under the condition of ensuring normal temperature, increasing humidity is extremely beneficial to plant growth. Humidity can be increased by the following methods: place the plant near a humidifier, with the humidifier running for more than 5 hours each day, so the plant can enjoy the mist sprayed out by the humidifier; use a sprayer adjusted to the mist setting to spray water on the plant's leaves, stems and aerial roots, increasing the plant's local humidity through evaporation; use a cold
damp towel or toilet paper to gently wipe the leaf surface or briefly (1 to 2 hours per day) apply it lightly to the leaf surface; cover the plant with transparent plastic film to create a small greenhouse effect, supplementing the plant's water through evaporation of water vapor from the soil, for no more than 2 hours a day, since too long will affect the plant's ventilation and photosynthesis.
(4) Water: In autumn and winter, the amount of watering should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. Before heating is turned on, the temperature is lower, the soil of the plant evaporates more slowly, and watering should be reduced, with the amount controlled between 1/4 and 1/2 of the original. Even after heating is turned on, watering should not be too frequent; when watering, pour less into the pot and let the water seep through the coir. In addition, water should also be sprayed where the aerial roots grow on the coir pole to reduce insufficient root water uptake caused by excessively rapid evaporation. For winter watering, water that has been left to stand for a day is better; water that is too cold easily damages the roots.
(5) Fertilizer: In the autumn and winter seasons in the north, plants mostly grow slowly or even stop growing, so fertilization should be reduced. Before the beginning of winter, liquid inorganic fertilizer should mainly be applied by watering or spraying, about once every 15 days. After the beginning of winter, foliar spraying should be the main method of fertilization, mainly sprayed through the stomata on the leaf surface, with fertilizer absorbed through the stomata on the leaf surface, so the fertilizer effect can act directly on the leaf surface. Special-purpose fertilizer should be used for foliar feeding; ordinary inorganic fertilizers are not easily absorbed by the leaf surface. The Beida Flower Guardian series and Japan-made Hana Ichiban can both be used as foliar fertilizers.
(6) Pests and diseases: Pothos plants are very susceptible to problems from pests and pathogens. Typical pests affecting pothos include mealybugs, red spider mites, and scale insects. Mealybugs are usually the most common, and can be removed with alcohol insecticide, a cotton swab, or by hand.
Typical pathogens (fungi and bacteria) affect a range of pothos varieties and usually cause root rot, leaf spot and wilt. Be careful not to overwater, to prevent the occurrence of root rot. When choosing to buy a pothos plant, take the plant out of the pot and check its roots. See whether it has complete and healthy roots. Pothos, also known as golden pothos, originated in tropical rainforest regions and is an evergreen vine of the Araceae family. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C; the potting soil should be kept moist, and water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface to raise air humidity, so as to benefit the growth of aerial roots. Vigorous growth method.
Shaping
Plant or directly insert 4 to 5 plants per pot, and set up a coir pole in the middle of the pot to make it easy for pothos to twine and grow upward. Shaping and pruning are carried out in spring. When the stems and vines have covered the coir pole and the tips extend about 20 cm beyond the coir pole, cut off 40 cm of the stem tips of 2 to 3 of the plants. After the new buds and new leaves sprout following the cutting back, then cut off the stem tips of the remaining plants. For potted plants whose whole plant or lower half has lost leaves due to winter frost or other reasons, cut back half of the plant's stems by 1/2, and cut back the other half of the stems by 2/3 or 3/4, so that the cut openings are staggered in height; in this way the new leaves growing below the cut openings can quickly cover the coir pole.
When growing in water, the amount of water must not be too much; just enough to submerge the roots. When there is too much water, the stems and leaves easily rot.
Yellow leaves
(1) Pothos bought back in winter has generally been exposed to cold, so placing it indoors will soon cause yellow leaves. After these frost-damaged yellow leaves fall off, new leaves will grow again around Spring Festival.
(2) Generally, newly bought pothos has an adaptation period of about 1 month in a new environment, and yellow leaves at the bottom are normal. However, remember: do not directly peel off yellow or dead leaves; cut them off from the middle of the leaf stalk. This avoids excessive water loss and increased wounds caused by direct peeling, which would otherwise cause the upper leaves to turn yellow as well.
(3) Although pothos is not afraid of shade, a very dark environment can also cause yellow leaves, so it can be moved periodically to a place with better light; at the same time, it must not be exposed to harsh sun. Excessive exposure under strong light will not only cause yellow leaves and leaf fall, but may also cause the whole plant to die.
(4) Potting soil that is too dry or too wet: both conditions can cause metabolic disorders and root damage, leading to yellow leaves and leaf fall.
(5) Lack of fertilizer and poor nutrition can also cause yellow leaves; at this time, fertilizer should be replenished promptly.
(6) Beer can be appropriately used as fertilizer. Method: mix beer with water at a 1:1 ratio and spray it on the stems and leaves.
(7) Too much additional fertilizing can also easily cause root burn, leading to yellowing and withering of leaves. You can dilute the fertilizer with water so the nutrients are washed away with the water flow.
Evergreen techniques
In spring, summer and autumn, it can be placed near an east- or north-facing windowsill, and in winter it can be placed at a south-facing window. If it is kept for a long time in an environment with too little light, it will not only cause the trailing stems to grow leggy, with longer internodes and a sparse plant shape, but the yellow and white stripes on the leaf surface will also become smaller and paler, or even disappear completely and fade to green. If grown outdoors, attention should be paid to shading; especially in summer, even more attention should be paid to preventing direct strong light, otherwise the new leaves will become smaller, the leaf color dull, and the leaf margins will easily be scorched. The suitable temperature for pothos growth is 20°C to 30°C, and the winter room temperature should not be lower than 15°C.
Pothos likes moisture. During the growing season, watering should keep the potting soil moist at all times; never let the potting soil dry out, otherwise it easily causes yellow leaves and a poor plant shape. If too much water causes water to accumulate in the pot, it easily causes root rot and withered leaves; especially when winter room temperature is low, even more attention should be paid to controlling watering. In summer, while watering adequately, also pay attention to frequently spraying water on the leaf surface. In winter, when the climate is dry, it is also necessary to spray-wash the leaves once every 4 to 5 days with warm water, washing away dust on the leaf surface, so as to help keep the leaves glossy and emerald green.
Propagation methods of pothos
It does not easily bloom, so cutting propagation is commonly used. From May to July, take shoots from the stem tips or base, cut them into sections about 10 cm long, and insert them into a propagation bed mixed with equal amounts of fine sand and peat; maintain appropriate humidity and a temperature of 21 to 25°C, and in a semi-shaded environment new roots can be produced in about 3 weeks. After rooting, they can be potted, with 3 to 4 plants per pot. Older branches can also be used for cuttings: cut branches with buds into sections of 4 to 5 nodes and insert them as above, and they can also grow into new plants. Layering propagation can also be used, and it can be carried out during the growing season.
The propagation method for hydroponic pothos is asexual cutting propagation.
Every year in spring and summer, when the climate and environment are suitable, propagation can be carried out. Generally, a relatively long and healthy branch of hydroponic pothos is selected as the new plant; it is separated from the mother plant and its bottom stem is slightly prepared, then it is cultivated in water or nutrient solution, and after some time, when new roots and buds have grown, it can be transplanted into a flowerpot for cultivation.
Cutting propagation is generally used: cut 3 to 5 branches 20 cm long, remove the leaves from the basal 2 nodes, and plant them directly in pots, then transplant them into pots, water thoroughly, and place them in a cool, ventilated place, keeping the potting soil moist. Pothos can also be grown hydroponically, but because the plant is relatively small, its ornamental value will be affected to some extent.
Cuttings
Propagation uses cutting and stem-burying methods. Select healthy pothos vines, cut them into sections of two nodes, being careful not to damage the aerial roots, then insert them into plain sand or coal cinders to a depth of 1/3 of the cutting, water thoroughly, and place in a shaded place; spray water on the leaf surface every day or cover with plastic film to retain moisture. When the ambient temperature is not lower than 20°C, the survival rate is above 90%.
Keeping pothos as a household potted plant is relatively simple. First, there should be at least 4 established seedlings in one pot. The potting soil should be loose, fertile and rich in organic matter, which helps it take shape. Second, pothos requires growth in an environment with relatively high temperature (winter room temperature must not be lower than 10°C, otherwise yellow leaves and leaf fall easily occur) and relatively strong diffused light. If it is kept in too dark a place for a long time, the internodes will become slender and weak, and the leaves will also become thinner, paler and lose their luster. In late spring and early summer (from April to August), cut branches 15 to 30 cm long, remove the leaves from the basal 1 to 2 nodes, and plant them directly in pots with culture soil, 3 to 5 per pot; water thoroughly, plant in a cool, ventilated place, keep the potting soil moist, and in about one month they will root and sprout, and in the same year they can grow into plants with ornamental value.
Water cuttings
Pothos can also be propagated by water cuttings of the terminal buds. Method: cut tender, strong stems and vines into sections 20 to 30 cm long, insert them directly into a bottle filled with clean water, change the water once every 8 to 9 days, and in more than 10 days they can root and survive. Because potted pothos is limited by the potting soil, after being cultivated for too long the plant easily ages, and the leaves become smaller and fall off. Therefore, after 2 to 3 years of cultivation, it must be repotted or pruned and renewed.
Hydroponic pothos grows relatively fast and is extensively managed. During cultivation and management, in summer water should be sprayed on the plant more often, and nutrient solution should be added once every 10 days to keep the leaves emerald green. For potted seedlings, when the seedlings grow 30 cm above the coir pole, they should be cut off; plant or directly insert 4 to 5 plants per pot, and set up a coir pole in the middle of the pot to make it easy for hydroponic pothos to twine and grow upward. After the new buds and new leaves sprout following the cutting back, then cut off the stem tips of the remaining plants.
Pothos disease control: pothos anthracnose
This pathogen mostly harms the middle section of leaves, and can also harm flowers. At first, small pus-like spots of moist reddish-brown or dark brown appear on the diseased part, with a faded green halo around the spots. After expanding, they form long oval or long strip-shaped patches, with dark brown edges and a yellow-brown interior, and with ring-like markings formed by the convergence of dark spots. Because its spot color is dark brown, it is also called black spot disease or dark brown disease. It can repeatedly infect the plant during the growing period.
Control methods
1. There are many pesticides that can control anthracnose, such as mancozeb, carbendazim, thiophanate, and Tanterling, all of which have a certain control effect.
2. Germany-produced "Sporgon" at 1,500 times dilution is a specific remedy for treating anthracnose.
Yellow leaves
(1) Pothos bought back in winter has generally been exposed to cold, so placing it indoors will soon cause yellow leaves. After these frost-damaged yellow leaves fall off, new leaves will grow again around Spring Festival.
(4) Generally, newly bought pothos has an adaptation period of about 1 month in a new environment, and yellow leaves at the bottom are normal. However, remember: do not directly peel off yellow or dead leaves; cut them off from the middle of the leaf stalk. This avoids excessive water loss and increased wounds caused by direct peeling, which would otherwise cause the upper leaves to turn yellow as well.
(3) Although pothos is not afraid of shade, a very dark environment can also cause yellow leaves, so it can be moved periodically to a place with better light; at the same time, it must not be exposed to harsh sun. Excessive exposure under strong light will not only cause yellow leaves and leaf fall, but may also cause the whole plant to die.
(4) Potting soil that is too dry or too wet: both conditions can cause metabolic disorders and root damage, leading to yellow leaves and leaf fall.
(5) Lack of fertilizer and poor nutrition can also cause yellow leaves; at this time, fertilizer should be replenished promptly.
(6) Beer can be appropriately used as fertilizer. Method: mix beer with water at a 1:1 ratio and spray it on the stems and leaves.
(7) Too much additional fertilizing can also easily cause root burn, leading to yellowing and withering of leaves. You can dilute the fertilizer with water so the nutrients are washed away with the water flow.
Pests and diseases
Pothos plants are very susceptible to problems from pests and pathogens. Typical pests affecting pothos include mealybugs, red spider mites, and scale insects. Mealybugs are usually the most common, and can be removed with alcohol insecticide, a cotton swab, or by hand.
Typical pathogens (fungi and bacteria) affect a range of pothos varieties and usually cause root rot, leaf spot and wilt. Be careful not to overwater, to prevent the occurrence of root rot. When choosing to buy a pothos plant, take the plant out of the pot and check its roots. See whether it has complete and healthy roots. Pothos, also known as golden pothos, originated in tropical rainforest regions and is an evergreen vine of the Araceae family. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C; the potting soil should be kept moist, and water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface to raise air humidity, so as to benefit the growth of aerial roots. Vigorous growth method.
Potted cultivation methods for pothos
Because potted pothos is limited by the potting soil, after being cultivated for too long the plant easily ages, and the leaves become smaller and fall off. Therefore, after 2 to 3 years of cultivation, it must be repotted or pruned and renewed.
Pothos likes warm, humid environments and requires loose, fertile soil with good drainage. For potted pothos, fertile, loose leaf mold with good drainage should be chosen, preferably slightly acidic. Pothos is extremely shade-tolerant and can be placed in a sunny spot indoors in all four seasons; in a relatively dark room, it should be moved every half month to a brighter environment for a period of recovery. Pothos likes hot and humid environments, and the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C. The potting soil should be kept moist, and water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface to raise air humidity, so as to benefit the growth of aerial roots. During the vigorous growth period, liquid fertilizer can be applied once a month. In May and June, when the temperature turns warmer, pruning and renewal can be carried out together with cuttings to encourage new buds to sprout from the basal stems.
Pothos develops best when cultivated in loose, organic-rich, slightly acidic to neutral sandy loam. You can use 70% leaf mold, 20% red loam, and 10% rapeseed cake and bone meal mixed and composted. Repot once every three years. Pothos is a shade-loving plant, avoids direct sunlight, likes diffused light, and is relatively shade-tolerant. For indoor cultivation, it can be placed beside a window, but direct sunlight must be avoided. Too strong sunlight will scorch pothos leaves, while too much shade will make the beautiful markings on the leaf surface disappear. Generally, receiving four hours of diffused light gives the best growth and development for pothos.
Pothos likes relatively high air humidity and a moist environment. In midsummer, during pothos's peak growth period, water can be sprayed several times a day on the aerial roots and leaf surface; this can not only wash dust off the leaves, helping pothos breathe, but also make the leaf color emerald and green, and can also lower leaf surface temperature and increase the air humidity of the micro-environment, helping the leaves grow better. Keep the potting soil at a moist level; when the potting soil is found to have turned white, water thoroughly. In winter, when room temperature is relatively low, pothos is in a dormant state, so water less and just keep the potting soil from drying out.
The most suitable growing temperature for pothos is 20°C to 28°C during the day and 15°C to 18°C at night. In winter, as long as the indoor temperature is not lower than 10°C, pothos can safely overwinter; if the temperature is lower than 5, it easily causes leaf fall and affects growth. For fertilizing pothos, nitrogen fertilizer should be the main component and potassium fertilizer supplementary. Before the pothos growing season arrives in spring, apply a 0.3% solution of ammonium sulfate or urea once about every 10 days, and use a 0.5‰ to 1‰ urea solution for one foliar feeding; this can both meet pothos's growth needs and keep the leaves green and glossy. Fertilization should be stopped in winter.
Usually, propagation of potted pothos uses cutting and stem-burying methods. Select healthy pothos vines, cut them into sections of two nodes, being careful not to damage the aerial roots, then insert them into plain sand or coal cinders to a depth of 1/3 of the cutting, water thoroughly, and place in a shaded place; spray water on the leaf surface every day or cover with plastic film to retain moisture. As long as the environment is kept not lower than 20, the survival rate is above 90%. In late spring and early summer, cut branches 15 cm to 30 cm long, remove the leaves from the basal 1 to 2 nodes, and plant them directly in pots with culture soil, 3 to 5 per pot; water thoroughly, plant in a cool, ventilated place, keep the potting soil moist, and in about one month they will root and sprout, and in the same year they can grow into plants with ornamental value. In spring and summer, cuttings from branches root easily; for making totem poles, tip cuttings with large leaves must be used, so that they take shape relatively quickly. Pothos can also be grown in water, but compared with soil cultivation the plant is smaller.
Plant or directly insert 4 to 5 plants per pot, and set up a coir pole in the middle of the pot to make it easy for pothos to twine and grow upward. Shaping and pruning are carried out in spring. When the stems and vines have covered the coir pole and the tips extend about 20 cm beyond the coir pole, cut off 40 cm of the stem tips of 2 to 3 of the plants. After the new buds and new leaves sprout following the cutting back, then cut off the stem tips of the remaining plants. For potted plants whose whole plant or lower half has lost leaves due to winter frost or other reasons, cut back half of the plant's stems by 1/2, and cut back the other half of the stems by 2/3 or 3/4, so that the cut openings are staggered in height; in this way the new leaves growing below the cut openings can quickly cover the coir pole.
When growing in water, the amount of water must not be too much; just enough to submerge the roots. When there is too much water, the stems and leaves easily rot.
Hydroponic methods for pothos
One,Propagation method for hydroponic pothos
The propagation method for hydroponic pothos is asexual cutting propagation. Every year in spring and summer, when the climate and environment are suitable, propagation can be carried out. Generally, a relatively long and healthy branch of hydroponic pothos is selected as the new plant; it is separated from the mother plant and its bottom stem is slightly prepared, then it is cultivated in water or nutrient solution, and after some time, when new roots and buds have grown, it can be transplanted into a flowerpot for cultivation.
Two,Daily management of hydroponic pothos
Hydroponic pothos is generally placed in a sunny spot indoors, where it can maintain a warm temperature and relatively good light to promote plant growth. In addition, it cannot be exposed directly to the sun. In winter, especially in northern China where winter is very cold, insulation measures should be taken appropriately at this time. At different stages of hydroponic pothos growth, additional fertilizing should be carried out according to growth needs to ensure nutrient supply. Hydroponic pothos has relatively high water requirements; the soil should be kept moist, with a heavy watering once a month, and then the leaves can be wiped every day to keep them fresh. Hydroponic pothos should be pruned regularly to keep the branches and leaves well-shaped and emerald green, and pests and diseases should be prevented and treated.
Three,Natural habits of hydroponic pothos
Hydroponic pothos is a green plant with very high ornamental value. Its emerald, graceful appearance and very long branches can hang downward like a gauze curtain, very beautiful, adding not only greenery but also tenderness to the interior; it is an ornamental plant very popular in the market. Hydroponic pothos is a plant that grows in tropical regions; its branches have climbing ability and can attach to objects to grow, hanging down like a waterfall, very beautiful. Hydroponic pothos grows in tropical regions and likes warm, humid climatic conditions; it has relatively high temperature requirements and cannot be too cold in winter. It has relatively high requirements for rainwater and moisture and likes humid environments. Hydroponic pothos is suitable for growing in fertile, moist soil with good drainage.
During care, attention must be paid to the following aspects:
1. Light 2. Temperature 3. Humidity 4. Water 5. Fertilizing and pruning
Winter care of pothos
Pothos likes heat and humidity, and its optimal growing temperature is 20°C to 30°C. Creating a suitable growing environment for it in winter becomes the key to the success or failure of care. In terms of care, attention should be paid to the following aspects:
Light
Pothos does not have a strong tendency toward light, but in winter, in order to make up for the lack of temperature and photosynthesis, its light exposure should be increased. The method is to place pothos in the spot with the best indoor light, or move it to a sealed balcony to bask in the sun at noon. At the same time, when the temperature is low, open windows as little as possible, because in a very short time the leaves may be frostbitten.
Temperature
In the north, pothos can safely overwinter when room temperature is above 10°C, and can grow normally when room temperature is above 20°C. For ordinary households, reaching this temperature is not a big problem; what needs attention is to avoid excessive temperature differences, and also to make sure the leaves do not get close to heating equipment.
Humidity
Under the condition of ensuring normal temperature, increasing humidity is extremely beneficial to plant growth. Humidity can be increased by the following methods: place the plant near a humidifier, with the humidifier running for more than 5 hours each day; use a sprayer adjusted to the mist setting to spray water on the plant's leaves, stems and aerial roots several times a day; keep an appropriate amount of water in the flowerpot saucer, increasing the plant's local humidity through its evaporation; use a cold damp towel or toilet paper to gently wipe the leaf surface or briefly (1 to 2 hours per day) apply it lightly to the leaf surface; cover the plant with transparent plastic film to create a small greenhouse effect, supplementing the plant's water through evaporation of water vapor from the soil, for no more than 2 hours a day, since too long will affect the plant's ventilation and photosynthesis.
Water
In winter, the amount of watering should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. After heating is turned on, watering should not be too frequent either; when watering, pour less into the pot and let the water seep through the coir. In addition, water should also be sprayed on the aerial roots on the coir pole to reduce insufficient root water uptake caused by excessively rapid evaporation. For winter watering, water that has been left to stand for a day is better; water that is too cold easily damages the roots.
Fertilizer
In winter, plants grow slowly, so fertilize less. After the beginning of winter, foliar spraying should be the main method of fertilization. Special-purpose fertilizer should be used for foliar feeding; ordinary inorganic fertilizers are not easily absorbed. Foliar fertilizers such as the Beida Flower Guardian series and Japan-made Hana Ichiban can be used.
Variety classification of pothos
Pothos has many aliases around the world, including Australian native monstera, centipede tongavine, devil's ivy, golden pothos, hunter's robe, ivy arum, money plant, silver vine, Solomon Islands ivy, taro vine, and others.
Green-leaf pothos: the leaves are all green, with no patterns or variegation;
Yellow-leaf pothos (golden pothos): the leaves are light golden yellow, and the leaves are relatively thin;
Variegated pothos: variegated pothos refers to pothos whose leaves have markings of various colors. Based on the color and characteristics of the patterns, 3 variants have been discovered so far;
Silver pothos (E. a. 'Marble Queen'): the leaves have creamy white markings and are sturdier than the original variety;
Golden pothos (E. a. 'Golden Pothos'): the leaves have irregular yellow stripes;
Tricolor pothos (E. a. 'Tricolor'): the leaf surface has green and yellow-creamy white markings;
Star-point vine: the leaf surface is velvety green, full of silver-green patches or spots;
2008 new variety pothos 'N'Joy': it is the first variety to appear with curled leaves; the leaves are relatively small, and the leaf color is green with white markings.
Distribution range of pothos
Pothos originated in the tropical rainforest regions of Central and South America. At present, there are artificial garden and indoor plantings in various places in China, including Shanghai, Jiangsu, Fujian, Taiwan, China, Guangdong, Guangxi and other places.
Pothos, also known as golden pothos, has been widely distributed around the world since ancient times, including South Australia, Malaysia, Indochina, China, Japan, and India. In modern times it has been introduced to most tropical and subtropical forests in the world.
It originated in the tropical rainforest regions of Central and South America. At present, there are artificial garden and indoor plantings in various places in China, including Shanghai, Jiangsu, Fujian, Taiwan, China, Guangdong, Guangxi and other places.
Uses of pothos: ornamental value
Pothos is one of the very fine indoor decorative plants, a climbing vine foliage flower. Its vines are slender and soft, and its leaves are delicate and elegant. Place a nested pot high on top of a furniture cabinet and let its trailing stems hang down gracefully, or after the trailing stems hang too long, loop and hang them into a circle, just like an emerald relief. In this way it not only makes full use of space and purifies the air, but also adds a lively-lined, bright-colored green ornament to a rigid cabinet surface, full of vitality and adding a touch of warmth and charm to the room.
Pothos is an evergreen vine plant, and its green leaves have yellow patches, very shiny. It can be placed in a study or high on a windowsill and let its trailing stems hang down gracefully, just like an emerald relief. In this way it not only makes full use of space, but also adds a lively-lined, bright-colored green ornament to the room, full of charm. In addition, it can be grown in water as an exquisite small decoration for the room.
It has strong twining ability and well-developed aerial roots. It can be allowed to climb on a cylinder tied with coir and placed in an entrance hall or hotel, or it can be trained into a hanging form and placed in a study or on a windowsill. It is a flower relatively suitable for indoor placement. In this way it not only makes full use of space and purifies the air, but also adds a lively-lined, bright-colored green ornament to a rigid cabinet surface, full of vitality and adding a touch of warmth and charm to the room. Its flower meaning, "watching over happiness," also increases its ornamental appeal.
Greening value
Pothos not only has strong vitality, but when placed indoors, its air-purifying ability is no less than that of English ivy and spider plant. Pothos can absorb benzene, trichloroethylene, formaldehyde and others from the air. According to environmental scientists, for a newly renovated home, ventilate more, and at the same time use Maya Blue harmful gas adsorbent and then place a few pots of pothos, and basically the standard for moving in can be reached. Newly laid flooring very easily produces harmful substances. Because pothos can simultaneously purify benzene, trichloroethylene and formaldehyde from the air, it is very suitable for placement in newly renovated rooms.
Green purifier. Pothos is a relatively common green plant; its long branches drape down and sway gracefully, and it can very much make a space become full of vitality. Pothos also has an extremely strong air-purifying function and has the reputation of being a green purifier. Pothos can convert formaldehyde into substances such as sugar or amino acids during metabolism, and can also decompose benzene emitted by copiers and printers, and can also absorb it. Therefore, whether in a home or an office, it is a great air purifier.
Environmental value
Environmental scientists have found that one pot of pothos in a room of 8 to 10 sq m is equivalent to an air purifier, and can effectively absorb harmful gases such as formaldehyde, benzene and trichloroethylene from the air. Pothos not only has strong vitality, but when placed indoors, its air-purifying ability is no less than that of English ivy and spider plant. Newly laid flooring very easily produces harmful substances. Because pothos can simultaneously purify benzene, trichloroethylene and formaldehyde from the air, it is very suitable for placement in newly renovated rooms.
Landscape uses of pothos
Pothos has colorful leaves and is evergreen in all four seasons. It is an extremely fine foliage plant, suitable for greening walls, walls and tree trunks, and can also be used as ground cover under tree shade.
Medicinal or dietary therapeutic value of pothos
The medical information and health dietary therapy information on Flower Guardian Network is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health problem should be consulted with professional medical staff, and treatment of any disease should follow a doctor's advice.
Ultimate flower-guarding mission: love yourself, start from reality, and strictly follow a doctor's advice. Toward illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope; face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and protect the flower field within your heart with care.
Medicinal value
Efficacy: activates blood and disperses stasis.
Indications: Used for traumatic injuries.
Nature, flavor and meridian tropism: Pungent, neutral. Kidney meridian.
Usage and dosage: Internal use: decocted in water, 3-9 grams.
External use: appropriate amount, pounded and applied.
Textual research: First recorded in "Flora of Guangzhou."
Decorative Uses of Pothos
Pothos is an excellent plant for purifying formaldehyde and ammonia, and placing it near a computer also provides a fairly good anti-radiation effect. However, its sap is toxic, so children should avoid touching it.
One,Pothos Pole
In its natural environment, pothos grows upward by clinging to tree trunks with its aerial roots. Gardeners, following this habit, have created pothos poles for people to enjoy.
The specific method is: erect a support pole covered with coir fiber in the center of a pot (bamboo or wooden stakes can also be used), fill the base with potting soil and press it firm, then plant three or four small pothos seedlings around the pole, and use fine string to tie these branches and leaves spirally onto the pole, and the pothos pole is complete. After that, strengthen water and fertilizer management. Once it has grown into a lush green pothos pole, place it in a courtyard, hall, office, or living room, and it will make people feel surrounded by greenery, quiet and fresh, full of wild charm.
Two,Wall Hanging and Suspension
Pothos vines grow several meters long, with soft branches and leaves that hang down. You can grow a few cuttings in water or soil, and hang them in a bamboo basket or hanging pot by a window or in the center of a room. Its green long stems and trailing leaves hang low, light and graceful, pleasing to the eye and refreshing to the spirit.
Three,Water Culture Display
Place pothos branches in a water bottle, and the branches can remain vibrant for several years. If paired with other flowers, it also has a unique charm.
Four,Greening Rockeries
Around rockeries in courtyards, plants often struggle to grow well due to poor conditions, but pothos can grow very well. Planting pothos not only beautifies the rockery but also allows you to enjoy the pothos's graceful branches and hanging green leaves, adorning the rockery with lively, vivid charm.
Precautions for Pothos
Like peace lilies, pothos belongs to the Araceae family, and its toxic part is mainly in its sap.
It is a fact that pothos is toxic, but keeping it at home is no problem, because as long as you do not consume the sap of pothos, it will not cause poisoning. Although the sap of pothos is toxic, it is only mildly toxic. During cultivation, even if you touch the leaves of pothos, as long as you do not directly consume them, it will not affect your body. In addition, many people now grow pothos hydroponically. If you touch the water used for growing, as long as you do not drink it, there is generally no harm.
Of course, accidental ingestion is one aspect, and contact is also an issue to be aware of during cultivation. As a plant with mildly toxic sap, accidental ingestion may cause allergic reactions. Therefore, during everyday cultivation, everyone should especially be careful not to put it in the mouth, and it is best not to let food come into contact with pothos. Regarding the effects of pothos sap on the body, experts say that the sap of pothos is toxic, and whether it is an adult or a child, skin contact may cause redness, swelling, and itching, and accidental ingestion may also cause throat pain. For toxic plants like pothos, the toxins mainly come from the sap in the plant stems. Even if they are grown at home or in the office, as long as you do not directly touch the sap with your hands, it will not cause poisoning.
From this it can be seen that pothos can be grown, and according to gardening experts, plants such as pothos and peace lilies actually do more good than harm for the public. Although their sap is toxic, they can all absorb formaldehyde, and their air-cleaning effect is also very good, so everyone does not need to "turn pale at the mention of poison," nor should they refuse to grow them just because they are toxic. Moreover, keeping pothos at home is very useful for purifying the home environment, so everyone can still choose to grow pothos at home.
The Flower Language of Pothos
Pothos is one of the most popular indoor hanging plants. Its vines are slender and soft, and its leaves are delicate and elegant. Place a pot on top of a cabinet at a high spot, let its vines hang down gracefully, or after the vines hang too long, loop and hang them into a circle, just like a green relief sculpture. This not only makes full use of space, but pothos can also effectively absorb harmful gases in the air such as formaldehyde, benzene, and trichloroethylene, making it an effective air purifier.
The ornamental value of pothos and its air-purifying effect have brought pothos into countless homes. At the same time, the flower language of pothos, "resilience and kindness" and "watching for happiness," gives people an extra layer of expectation when growing pothos.
Pothos flower language one: resilience and kindness.
Pothos is a herbaceous plant with extremely strong vitality. It can grow as long as there is water, and is also called the "flower of life." Its spreading green branches and leaves are very easy to satisfy, and even drinking water feels like happiness. The resilient and kind pothos asks for very little but gives everyone so much in return.
Pothos flower language two: watching for happiness.
Pothos comes to life upon contact with water. Because of its strong vitality, it is called the "flower of life." Its spreading green branches and leaves are very easy to satisfy, and even drinking water makes it feel happy.
Pothos rarely blooms. The pothos flower belongs to a rare plant unique to Tibet, China, produced in the cold regions of Tibet, China, in the Himalayas. Pothos grown at home never blooms. Some people say that the greatest dream of pothos is to be able to produce beautiful flowers. They work hard continuously for this dream, looking forward to the arrival of happiness.
Pothos Pictures