Why has the golden edge of the golden-edged spider plant disappeared? Insufficient light or too much nitrogen fertilizer and too little phosphorus fertilizer

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Golden-edged spider plant is probably familiar to flower lovers. It is a member of the spider plant family, but its leaves have a golden edge, making it look even more beautiful. However, though it is more beautiful, its care conditions are also more demanding. If you do not follow the correct cultivation methods for the golden-edged spider plant, it will show a reversion to ancestral traits, and the golden edge of the leaves will also disappear! So why does the golden-edged spider plant lose its golden edge as it grows? Today the editor will help everyone solve this problem.

I. When the golden-edged spider plant no longer has a golden edge, find the cause

There are many varieties of spider plant. According to differences in the leaves, they are divided into golden-edged spider plant, silver-edged spider plant, golden-centered spider plant, and so on. They look more beautiful than ordinary spider plants. But during cultivation, many flower lovers' golden-edged spider plants show leaf fading and no golden edge. What exactly is going on? For this, the editor has summarized 4 reasons why golden-edged spider plants have no golden edge, and attached solutions. Let's continue reading.

II. Reasons why golden-edged spider plants have no golden edge and solutions

1. Insufficient light

Why does the golden-edged spider plant lose its golden edge as it grows? For this problem, the most likely reason is actually insufficient light! It is said that although the golden-edged spider plant is not a light-loving plant, it needs sufficient light during growth. If it is placed in a place where it cannot see light, the golden edge of the golden-edged spider plant will slowly disappear.

Solution: Since it is caused by insufficient light, it naturally needs supplemental light. Flower lovers should put the golden-edged spider plant outdoors for two hours every day. Of course, it is better to put it out in the morning and evening (to avoid direct strong light). In this way, the golden edge will be more obvious.

2. Improper fertilization

When it comes to the reasons why the golden-edged spider plant has no golden edge, fertilizer is also a factor that cannot be ignored. It is said that if, when fertilizing the golden-edged spider plant, there is relatively little phosphorus fertilizer and relatively much nitrogen fertilizer, the plant will have more chlorophyll, and the final result is that the golden edge will disappear.

Solution: Supplement whatever is lacking. At this time, flower lovers should apply a certain amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to the golden-edged spider plant, and then fertilize normally to ensure a balance of phosphorus and nitrogen fertilizer. Before long, the golden edge of the leaves will appear again.

3. Improper watering

Why does the golden-edged spider plant lose its golden edge as it grows? Besides insufficient light and improper fertilization, improper watering is also one of the factors. If the golden-edged spider plant is usually watered too much, or sprayed with too little water, resulting in insufficient humidity, the golden edge of the leaves may also disappear.

Solution: In this situation, flower lovers should water lightly, but spray more water. Let the golden-edged spider plant be in a relatively humid environment, and its golden edge will naturally appear.

4. Failure to prune in time

After the golden edge of the leaves of the golden-edged spider plant disappears, everyone should promptly cut off the leaves without a golden edge. Otherwise, such leaves will snatch nutrients away from the leaves with a golden edge. The result is: there will be fewer and fewer leaves with a golden edge, and in the end the leaves of the whole plant will have no golden edge!

Solution: Once we find leaves without a golden edge, we must cut them off. Only in this way can the other leaves remain unaffected.

Why does the golden-edged spider plant lose its golden edge as it grows? After reading the above introduction, I believe everyone knows what to do! After discovering leaves without a golden edge, cut them off immediately, then place it outdoors for two hours every day (in the morning and evening), apply a certain amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, reduce watering, and increase spraying. After doing all this well, I believe everyone's golden-edged spider plants can grow beautifully~

What to do when the patterns of variegated plants disappear

Variegated plants win people's affection with their brilliantly colorful leaf colors and have high ornamental value, but some variegated plants often show leaves turning green and losing colored stripes and spots during care. The reasons are as follows:

(1) The influence of high temperature and light: Most variegated plants like lower temperatures in summer and prefer scattered light. Under high temperature and strong direct sunlight, lutein often converts into chlorophyll, such as in golden-centered spider plant, golden-edged snake plant, golden-centered euonymus, and so on; while in an overly shaded environment, little carotene is synthesized and more chlorophyll is synthesized, and variegated leaves also turn green, such as in calathea, red-leaf cordyline, heavenly bamboo, and so on. Therefore, when growing variegated plants, it is necessary both to avoid direct sunlight and not to place them in shade for a long time. They should be placed by a bright sunny window.

(2) The influence of fertilization: When caring for variegated plants, do not apply too much nitrogen fertilizer. Too much nitrogen fertilizer easily causes leggy growth and the leaf color turns green, so the amount of nitrogen fertilizer should be controlled. Especially after the plant has taken shape, reduce nitrogen fertilizer application and regularly increase phosphorus fertilizer and potassium fertilizer. In this way, color degradation can be prevented.

(3) Variation in the plant itself: We know that variegated plants are selected from buds with individual variations in the plant and cultivated carefully. Genetic variation in the plant itself also occurs from time to time. Therefore, it is also normal for some variegated plants sometimes to produce green bud sports. In this situation, the variant buds can be cut off to prevent the green from expanding and affecting the ornamental effect.

Appreciation and introduction of common foliage plant pictures

Appreciation and introduction of common foliage plant pictures I

Rubber Tree

[Aliases] Large-leaf qing, red Burmese tree, red-mouth rubber tree, Indian banyan

[Family and genus] Moraceae, Ficus

[Place of origin] China

[Morphological characteristics] Evergreen tree. Plant height 2-3 m. Stem hairless, with milky sap. Leaves thick, leathery, with long petioles; leaves oblong or elliptical

[Cultivation substrate] It is advisable to choose sandy loam rich in humus

[Watering] Just keep the soil often slightly dry or slightly moist. Summer is the stage when the rubber tree needs the most water, so it can be watered more. Winter is the period when the rubber tree needs the least water, so supply less water

[Fertilization] During the vigorous growth season, diammonium phosphate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, and so on should be applied as topdressing

[Light] The rubber tree likes strong direct sunlight and also tolerates shaded environments. However, during cultivation, it should receive no less than 4 hours of direct sunlight every day. If conditions permit, it is best to ensure the plant can receive full sun

[Ventilation] Just maintain appropriate ventilation in the environment

[Temperature] The rubber tree likes high-temperature environments, so it grows fastest in summer and autumn. The ambient temperature should be kept between 20-30 degrees. When the ambient temperature is below 10 degrees, the rubber tree is basically in a state of stagnant growth. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 5 degrees

[Disease control] The rubber tree is prone to anthracnose, whose pathogen is Gloeosporium elasticae. This disease mainly occurs in the high-temperature summer season, and the main affected part is the leaves. Its symptoms are round or elliptical gray spots appearing on both sides of the leaf veins; in severe cases, the lesions join together and spread to the whole leaf. Control methods are to avoid mechanical injury to the plant and reduce opportunities for pathogens to infect the plant; promptly remove diseased leaves to prevent spread; prune reasonably so that the tree body maintains a natural open-center form and achieves light penetration and ventilation.

Asparagus Fern

Asparagus fern is also known as cloud-slice bamboo and mountain grass, Liliaceae, Asparagus.

Origin and habits: Asparagus fern is native to South Africa. It likes warm, humid, and semi-shaded conditions, and does not tolerate drought or frost. It requires soil rich in humus and well drained.

Morphological characteristics: Asparagus fern is a perennial herbaceous plant. The stem is smooth and slender, climbing in form. The leaves are fine, spreading horizontally, small, about 3-5 mm long. True leaves are reduced to scales or spines. Flowers small, bisexual, white. Berries spherical, purple-black. The flowering period is mostly February-March or June-July, and some bloom twice.

Propagation techniques: Asparagus fern is mostly propagated by sowing and division. Sowing is carried out in March-April, and the seeds are soaked for 24 hours before sowing. Sow in spots in a 10 cm deep pot, cover with glass or plastic film, keep the temperature at 20-25°C and the pot soil moist, and germination can occur in 20-30 days. When the seedlings are 5-10 cm tall, they can be planted in a greenhouse or potted. Large 4-5-year-old plants can be propagated by division in spring.

Management techniques: Asparagus fern is a shade plant and should not be placed in a place with too strong light, otherwise the branches and leaves easily turn yellow and wither. Watering should be appropriate, keeping the pot soil alternately wet and dry. Generally, watering just enough to moisten the surface soil is fine. In dry seasons, spray clean water on the leaf surface more often. Asparagus fern likes fertilizer. Apply 1 time every 10-15 days a fully decomposed dilute liquid fertilizer based mainly on nitrogen and potassium, or milk residue mixed with water. Asparagus fern grows quickly, so weak, overly dense, old branches, and dead stems should be thinned and pruned at any time, which helps ventilation and maintains a low posture. Asparagus fern can also be planted in bamboo tubes, whose water permeability and water retention are both good, so there is no need to drill holes in the bottom of the pot.

Ornamental value: Asparagus fern is mainly used as a potted foliage plant. It is fresh and elegant, and when placed in a study it shows even more of a scholarly atmosphere. The roots, stems, and leaves of asparagus fern can all be used as medicine and can be collected throughout the year. The branches and leaves of asparagus fern are slender, upright and elegant, with a balanced fresh green density and an unrestrained posture. It is a good companion material for cut flowers, bouquets, and flower baskets.

Areca Palm

Family and genus: Arecaceae, Dypsis, evergreen shrub.

Origin and habits: Native to Madagascar, Africa. It is mostly potted in various parts of China. Areca palm likes warm and humid environments, likes light, and is also fairly shade tolerant. It grows slowly in height but develops crown width relatively quickly, and naturally self-prunes well. It requires slightly acidic, well-aerated sandy loam and avoids alkaline soil.

Morphological characteristics: Plant height 3-4 m. The stem branches from the ground and has ring patterns; leaves spread in an arch shape, up to 2 m long, petioles smooth, yellow, pinnae lanceolate, 60 cm long, soft at the tip, with 3 raised main veins on the back; flowers small, in strings, golden yellow, flowering period March-April.

Propagation techniques: Areca palm can be propagated by sowing or division. Generally, potted plants mostly use division propagation. Division propagation can be done in all four seasons, but autumn is best. Select well-developed shoots from a robust mother plant, cut them from the roots away from the mother plant, and transplant them into a new pot to replant. Newly planted plants, because the root system has not yet developed well, should avoid long exposure to strong light. Water appropriately and spray water on the leaves several times a day to keep the leaves moist. Keep the temperature at about 20-25°C, and normal growth can occur in about 20 days.

Management techniques: Indoor potted areca palm should use slightly acidic soil. In the north, attention should be paid to choosing sandy loam with high humus content. Watering should follow the principle of “dry thoroughly, wet thoroughly” according to the season. In dry and hot seasons, water appropriately more; in low-temperature rainy weather, control watering. In northern regions, especially where the water contains more salt and alkali, attention should be paid to regularly using black alum to adjust soil acidity. Liquid fertilizer can be applied in all four seasons. In summer, appropriately topdress with nitrogen-containing organic fertilizer; in winter, organic flower fertilizer such as sesame paste residue can be applied. Rotate the flowerpot regularly, often prune lower and inner dead leaves, and pay attention to trimming the crown shape. In winter, the indoor temperature must be kept above 10°C. When it is below 5 degrees for a long time, it will suffer freezing damage.

Ornamental value: The areca palm plant is tall, with drooping green leaves and an unrestrained posture, evergreen in all seasons. When potted and arranged in meeting places, halls, and rooms, it is especially magnificent and reflects a tropical scene. This species is good material for park and courtyard greening in South China. In places such as Hong Kong, China and Macao, China, because its leaves grow radially in all directions, it is also regarded as a symbol of a career “flourishing in all directions.” It is highly favored.

Giant Taro (Dripping Guanyin)

Dripping Guanyin is a trade name. When the soil water content is high, water drips downward from the leaf tips or leaf edges, so many places call it Dripping Guanyin. This plant is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant in Araceae, Alocasia - Alocasia macrorrhizos. It is native to the subtropics and likes warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments. It is not cold tolerant. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin in China, it is all potted and moved indoors before winter. Alocasia does not have high soil requirements, but it grows best in well-drained sandy loam or humus loam containing organic matter. Generally, the potting soil mostly uses a mixed soil of 2:2:1 leaf mold, peat soil, and coarse sand. During the growing season, keep the pot soil moist and apply 1-2 times per month a dilute liquid fertilizer of N, P, and K based mainly on N. In summer, place it in a semi-shaded, ventilated place, and often spray water around it and on the leaf surface to increase air humidity, lower leaf temperature, and keep the leaves clean. In winter, stop fertilizing and control the frequency of watering. Alocasia grows very fast, so during its growth process, fertilizer and water must be appropriate to avoid the lower part of the stem becoming bare and affecting ornamental value.

Malabar Chestnut (Money Tree)

[Aliases] Money tree, Central American kapok, chestnut tree, American peanut

[Family and genus] Malvaceae, Pachira

[Place of origin] Central America, Mexico to Costa Rica

[Soil] Well-drained sandy loam rich in humus is best

[Light] The money tree is not strict about light and can adapt fairly well whether in strong light or weak light indoors. But full sun can make leaf nodes shorter and the plant shape compact and full. Insufficient light makes the cultivated tree body grow more slowly. Do not suddenly move the plant from shade to strong light, otherwise the leaves will be scorched, with burnt edges, affecting appearance

[Temperature] The money tree likes a warm and humid climate. Generally, 15-30 degrees is most suitable during the growth stage. In winter it should be brought indoors to overwinter, and it is best if room temperature is not lower than 5 degrees

[Watering] The money tree should generally be kept often moist. Remember that it should not be too wet, to avoid root rot. In summer, a money tree placed indoors should be watered once every 3-5 days. In spring and autumn, water once every 5-8 days. In winter, watering should be restrained, and keeping the pot soil slightly moist is enough

[Fertilization] Normally apply organic liquid fertilizer once every 2-3 months. A multi-element compound fertilizer with high phosphorus and potassium content can also be applied to promote thickening of the stem base and improve ornamental value. The high-temperature and high-humidity season in summer is very favorable for the growth of the money tree, so fertilizer and water management should be strengthened at this stage

[Economic value] The money tree has a graceful plant shape, bright green leaves, and a spindle-shaped tree form. It can be woven into many shapes and can also be made into bonsai of various postures with unique styles. Because its seeds contain oil, it was once widely promoted in tropical regions as an oil-bearing woody plant

Dwarf Coconut

[Aliases] Dwarf palm, dwarf coconut, dwarf coconut palm, dwarf palm

[Family and genus] Arecoideae, Chamaedorea

[Place of origin] Mexico and Guatemala

[Growth habits] It likes high temperature, high humidity, and semi-shaded environments, does not tolerate strong light, and is not strongly cold tolerant

[Soil] It requires well-drained, fertile, moist soil. Repot once every 2 years in spring. When repotting, because the roots are very fine, avoid injuring too many roots and affecting its recovery and growth

[Temperature and environment] The suitable growth temperature is 20-30 degrees. At 13 degrees it enters dormancy, and the overwintering temperature is 10 degrees. It fears direct sunlight and does not tolerate drought. Under the hot sun, its leaf color will become lighter or yellow, and in severe cases it will cause sunscald, producing scorched leaves and black spots, losing ornamental value

[Fertilization and watering] This species has a growth period from March to September. Water in time to keep the pot soil moist, but watering should follow the principle of preferring dry over wet. In summer and autumn, when the air is dry and the temperature is high, it is also necessary to often spray water on the leaf surface to increase air humidity. During the dormant period, water less and keep the pot surface slightly dry. During the growing season, fertilize 1-2 times per month, and stop fertilizing at the end of September

[Economic value] This species has a small and exquisite plant shape, an elegant and refined form, emerald green and glossy leaves, strong shade tolerance, and a rich tropical flavor

King Coconut

[Family and genus] Arecoideae, Ravenea

[Place of origin] Eastern Madagascar

[Growth habits] It grows in swamps and along riverbanks in areas with sufficient rain and sunlight. It likes environments with sufficient light and sufficient water, and is also fairly cold tolerant and shade tolerant

[Soil] It is not strict about soil, but loose, fertile, and well-drained soil is more favorable for its growth

[Temperature] It grows rapidly when sunlight and water are sufficient. The suitable growth temperature is 22-30 degrees. When potted, in cold areas it can be brought indoors to overwinter

[Fertilization] It likes magnesium fertilizer. Topdress once a month to keep the leaves emerald green. When magnesium is deficient, the leaf color turns yellow

[Economic value] This species has a thick trunk, an elegant and light plant shape, and is beautifully green. Its pinnate compound leaves resemble feathers. At the same time, because it adapts to a wide range of regions and grows well, it is an increasingly popular landscaping tree species. Potted for indoor display, it has a quite tropical mood

Dwarf Umbrella Tree

[Aliases] Duck-foot wood, hand tree

[Family and genus] Araliaceae, Schefflera

[Place of origin] New Hebrides Islands, South Pacific

[Growth habits] It likes high temperature and high humidity

[Soil] The cultivation soil is best as well-drained loam or sandy loam

[Temperature and environment] The suitable growth temperature is about 20-28 degrees. The temperature should generally not be lower than 12 degrees, nor higher than 30 degrees. If the winter temperature is too low, it will shed leaves and lose ornamental value. When the temperature drops to 5 degrees, insulation is needed. In summer, avoid strong direct sunlight all day. It should be placed in a bright indoor place, and direct sunlight should not be allowed. Placed in a dark place, the yellow-white patches of variegated varieties will gradually disappear. After direct exposure to strong light, the leaves easily turn yellow and fall off. When planted on a balcony, shade is needed in spring and summer, and light is needed in autumn and winter

[Watering and fertilization] In spring and autumn, the pot soil should preferably alternate dry and wet; in summer, mainly wet; in winter, mainly dry. It is not selective about water quality. The growing period is mainly from April to October, and fertilize once every half month

[Economic value] The dwarf umbrella tree has oily green leaves in palmate compound form, leathery and glossy; variegated varieties have alternating yellow and green and are an ideal indoor ornamental plant. The dwarf umbrella tree tolerates pruning and has strong sprouting ability. The plant posture is elegant, and especially when used to beautify a room it can rival high-grade flower varieties. Dwarf umbrella tree flowers are a winter nectar source, and the root bark and leaves can also be used medicinally

Small-spike Fishtail Palm

[Aliases] Clustered fishtail palm, wine coconut

[Family and genus] Arecaceae, Caryota

[Place of origin] Guangdong, Guangxi, and Hainan, China; Indochina Peninsula; India

[Growth habits] A semi-heliophilous tree species, it grows poorly under strong sunlight. It likes warm, highly humid, and well-ventilated environments and has relatively strong cold tolerance, making it one of the more cold-tolerant palm plants

[Soil] It has relatively strong growth vigor and a developed root system, and is not strict about soil conditions. When potted, garden soil and humus soil can be mixed in equal amounts as the substrate. Generally repot once every 1-2 years. When repotting, remove part of the old soil, cut off some old roots, replant with new soil, and add a small amount of decomposed organic fertilizer

[Temperature] The suitable growth temperature is 18-30 degrees, and the overwintering temperature is 3 degrees. It can endure short periods of low temperature of -1 to -2 degrees, and will suffer freezing damage if below this temperature for a long time

[Light] It is a light-loving plant and needs sufficient sunlight during the growing period. It has relatively strong adaptability to light and is also suitable for cultivation and appreciation in brighter indoor places

[Watering] The roots are semi-succulent and have relatively strong drought resistance. During the growing period from March to October, it can be watered once a day. In other seasons, watering should be kept moderately dry and wet, and pot soil must not be allowed to accumulate water, to avoid root rot. During dormancy, it is enough to keep the pot soil moist. Under dry climate conditions, spray water on the leaf surface to ensure the leaves are deep green and glossy

[Fertilization] During the growing period, generally apply liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer 1-2 times per month to promote vigorous growth of the plant

[Economic value] This species grows in clusters, with very vigorous growth, a graceful and varied plant shape, luxuriant branches and leaves, a full tree form with a rich sense of layering, peculiar leaf shape, and deep green leaf color. It is an excellent indoor greening and decorative plant. It is often planted in medium and large pots and placed in lobbies, entrance halls, meeting rooms, and other places, with extraordinary grandeur. The pith of the stem contains starch, which can be made into “sago” for eating. The inflorescence sap can be used to make sugar and brew wine

Pothos

Pothos is also called stone citrus. Araceae, large evergreen climbing vine. Native to the Solomon Islands. In tropical regions it often climbs and grows on rocks and tree trunks in fish forests and can grow into huge vines. The green leaves have yellow patches.

Pothos is one of the very excellent indoor decorative plants. The pothos stems are slender and soft, and the leaves are delicate and beautiful, just like green reliefs. The brightly colored green decoration is full of vitality and adds a harmonious and pleasant charm to the room.

It has strong shade tolerance and is an excellent material for beautifying rooms. Placed indoors, it can make the room full of life.

Temperature: Likes a warm environment; the minimum overwintering temperature is 10-13°C; variegated pothos 16°C.

Light: Likes a semi-shaded environment; it can grow well in a relatively bright room; excellent variegated varieties easily die under weak light conditions.

Water: In spring, summer, and autumn, there should be sufficient water in the pot soil. Water when the surface 1-2 cm of pot soil becomes dry; in winter when the temperature is low, reduce watering.

Air humidity: Likes high temperature and high humidity; spray water on the plant regularly.

Repotting: Repot in spring as needed.

Propagation: In spring and summer, stem cuttings root easily; for making a totem pole, tip cuttings with large leaves must be used, so that the shape forms relatively quickly.

Dracaena Fragrans

The scientific name of Dracaena fragrans is Dracaena fragrans, with aliases Brazilian iron tree, Brazilian thousand-year wood, and golden-edged fragrant dracaena. It is a plant in Liliaceae, Dracaena.

Origin and habits: Dracaena fragrans is native to tropical regions. It likes environments with sufficient light, high temperature, and high humidity, and also tolerates shade and dryness. It also grows well in bright scattered light and in the relatively dry environment of northern rooms.

Morphological characteristics: Dracaena fragrans is an evergreen tree with a neat plant shape and upright stem. Leaves clustered at the top of the stem, 40-90 cm long, 6-10 cm wide, slightly blunt at the tip, curved into a bow shape, with bright yellow or milky white stripes; leaf margins bright green, with wavy undulations, glossy. Flowers small. Yellow-green, fragrant.

Propagation techniques: Dracaena fragrans is propagated by cuttings. Use branches pruned from stems with poorer plant shape as cutting material, cut into 5-10 cm sections, and insert them upright or horizontally into a cutting bed using coarse sand or vermiculite as the medium. They can also be promoted to root by water culture. The specific method is to insert the cut stem sections into water. The cut surface should be smooth. The upper end can be coated with wax to prevent water evaporation, which is especially important in dry seasons. The lower end is immersed 2-3 cm in water, the temperature is above 25°C, and the water and container should be kept clean. Tip cuttings with leaves root relatively quickly and can root and be potted in 3-4 weeks; stem sections root relatively slowly, and sometimes it takes 2-3 months to grow new roots and new buds.

Management techniques: As long as conditions such as temperature are suitable, Dracaena fragrans can grow in all four seasons. In summer high temperatures, appropriate shading is needed. In winter, room temperature must not be lower than 5°C. But it is best to let it go dormant in winter. The dormancy temperature is 13°C. If the temperature is too low, yellow-brown spots will appear at the leaf tips and leaf margins. When placing Dracaena fragrans indoors, it should be in a place with sufficient light. If the light is too weak, the stripes on the leaves will turn green, and the basal leaves will turn yellow, losing ornamental value. During cultivation, keep the water clean and water 1-2 times per week. Do not use too much water, to prevent trunk rot. In summer high temperatures, spray misting can be used to increase air humidity, and spray water on the leaves to keep them moist.

During the growing period, Dracaena fragrans should be appropriately given foliar topdressing. Spray the leaves with 100-fold diluted nutrient solution once every half month. After Dracaena fragrans has been cultivated for several years, when the plant is too tall or the lower leaves of the stem have fallen off and the plant shape is poor, pruning should be carried out. Repot or change the soil every year in early spring. If the environment is unsuitable for potted Dracaena fragrans, there may be damage from red spiders, thrips, scale insects, and so on. In addition, excessive ventilation, drought, irregular watering, and excessive fertilization can all cause scorched leaf tips.

Ornamental value: Dracaena fragrans is a quite popular large indoor potted flower and tree, especially when placed in relatively spacious living rooms, studies, and sitting rooms. It has an elegant and plain style and carries a southern-country mood. It is a world-famous new-generation indoor foliage plant with a graceful, neat plant shape.

Peacock Plant

Also known as Calathea bicolor, it is a foliage plant of the genus Calathea in the family Marantaceae. It has tubers at the base, grows 20-30 cm tall, with long elliptical leaves; the leaf surface is green-white, with fairly original brown markings along the edges of the midrib; the leaves remain evergreen all year round and have a unique metallic sheen; the brown patches are like a peacock with its tail spread, and the colors are fresh, gorgeous and soft, making it a common indoor foliage plant. Many plants in this genus have high ornamental value and are important plants used to decorate indoor environments around the world. Common varieties include:

(1) Calathea zebrina. Also known as spotted-leaf arrowroot, its leaves are long elliptical, large and thin; the leaf surface is green and velvety, with zebra-like feathery stripes on both sides of the midrib, and the leaf underside is purplish red.

(2) Red-backed arrowroot. Leaves are broadly elliptical, green on the surface, with inconspicuous markings, and the leaf underside is purplish red.

(3) Variegated arrowroot. Also called arrow-feather striped Calathea, with a green leaf surface, pale yellow feathery stripes on both sides of the midrib, a deep purple leaf underside, and pale yellow flowers.

(4) White-spotted Calathea. The plant grows 50-60 cm tall, with weak stems and large, thin leaves; the leaves are ovate-lanceolate, with irregular white patches among the green leaves.

(5) Double-line Calathea. Also known as red-feather Calathea, its leaves are long elliptical, pale green on the surface, with white or pink parallel double-line stripes on both sides of the midrib, very beautiful.

Calathea makoyana is native to the Americas. It likes semi-shade and a hot, humid environment, and is not cold-tolerant. The optimum growth temperature is 20-30°C; above 35°C or below 7°C, growth is poor. The overwintering temperature must not be too low, otherwise the leaves tend to curl. It requires loose soil rich in humus and with good drainage.

Calathea plants are mainly propagated by division, mostly carried out in spring from April to May when repotting. Division should not be done too early, otherwise the low temperature can easily damage the roots and affect survival and growth. When dividing, it can be separated into 2-3 clumps as one plant; too few will affect growth. After planting, water thoroughly once and keep it in a semi-shaded place for care. Before new roots emerge, watering should be controlled, and the soil should not be kept too wet.

The potting soil can be mixed with 3 parts leaf mold, 1 part peat or sawdust, and 1 part sand, with a small amount of soybean cake added as base fertilizer. When potting, first place a 3 cm thick layer of coarse sand at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer to facilitate drainage.

From May to September, shade the plant during growth or place it in semi-shade, maintaining a light transmission rate of 40%-60%, and avoid direct scorching sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily burned or the edges become scorched and curled. If kept indoors for a long time, low temperature and insufficient light will also cause weak growth and loss of the unique sheen on the leaf surface. In winter, it can receive direct sunlight through glass.

Calathea has high humidity requirements. During daily care, the flowerpot can be placed on an upside-down flowerpot, and water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface and the surrounding environment to keep the surroundings and ground moist, so as to increase environmental humidity. Water before the potting soil dries out completely, otherwise the leaves are prone to curling and scorched edges due to dryness. During the peak growth season, apply a light soybean cake fertilizer or slow-release chemical fertilizer once a week, and do not use too much nitrogen fertilizer. During high summer temperatures, apply a thin fertilizer once every half month; stop fertilizing when the temperature is below 15°C. During maintenance, good ventilation conditions should be maintained, otherwise scale insects easily occur, affecting stem and leaf growth and reducing ornamental value.

Calathea makoyana is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. The leaf surface has feathery markings alternating between dark green and white or pale yellow, and it has a unique metallic sheen, like a peacock's tail feathers, hence the name. Calathea makoyana is small and beautiful in shape, with fresh and gorgeous leaf colors, thus becoming outstanding among foliage plants. For potting, a culture soil mixed evenly with leaf mold, garden soil and a small amount of river sand should be selected. During the growth period, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once every 3-4 weeks. When fertilizing, be careful not to apply too much nitrogen fertilizer; generally the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is 2:1:1, which can make the leaf color glossy and gorgeous. Soilless cultivation can also be used, and it is enough to apply nutrient solution 1-2 times a month during the growth period. Watering should be done to keep the potting soil moist. Calathea makoyana likes humid air, so attention should be paid to increasing air humidity by spraying water, sprinkling water and other methods, especially in summer, where more attention should be paid to increasing humidity and lowering temperature to facilitate growth. For home cultivation, it can be placed in a brightly lit indoor spot, and strong direct sunlight must be avoided, otherwise leaf edges are easily scorched. If placed in a dim place for a long time, the leaves will lose their unique sheen. In winter, place it in a well-lit spot, and at the same time pay attention to cold protection; room temperature should be kept above 13°C, fertilization should be stopped, and watering should be controlled. In northern winters, indoor air is dry, so in addition to spraying and washing the leaf surface once with cool boiled water every 3-5 days, it is best to cover it with a plastic film cover at night to keep it warm and moist. If conditions permit, a humidifier can be used to increase indoor humidity. To maintain its gorgeous leaf color, the leaves should also often be gently washed with clean water. Calathea makoyana is mostly propagated by division. When dividing, it is best to plant 3-5 plants per pot.

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Peace lily (Spathiphyllum kochii)

Also known as white palm, spathe lily, Spathiphyllum kochii, and silver spathe lily. Araceae, genus Spathiphyllum (peace lily). Native to tropical regions of the Americas.

Morphological characteristics: perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. The plant grows 30-40 cm tall. Leaves are basal, leathery, long elliptical or broadly lanceolate, with long tips, and deep green in color. Leaves are 20-30 cm long and about 10 cm wide, with petioles about 30 cm long and obvious veins. Because the spathe curls into a spoon shape and is white like a snow lotus, shaped like palms joined together, it is called white palm; because its pure white spathe leaves resemble a white boat raising its sail on green water, it has the blessing meaning of smooth sailing in social interactions, to encourage people to strive in life and prosper in career.

The peace lily is very similar to the white anthurium, also having white spathes, but the leaves and the flower's spathe are somewhat different. The peace lily's spathe does not turn outward but curls inward, and the oval spathe is not as bright and leathery as that of the white anthurium.

Cultivated hybrids in the same genus include: perfumed white palm: its flowers have a faint fragrance. Green Giant white palm: also known as Green Giant, the plant is taller than the peace lily, the leaves are larger than those of the peace lily, and the parallel feather-like lateral veins are more obvious, thus appearing more vigorous and lively, and it is a trendy indoor potted plant.

Habits: likes warm, humid and semi-shaded environments, must avoid direct sunlight, and fears cold. Avoids heavy clay soil, and prefers sandy loam rich in humus.

Cultivation and management: The peace lily is fairly shade-tolerant. As long as there is about 60% scattered light, its growth needs can be met, so it can be kept year-round indoors in a place with bright scattered light. In summer, 60%-70% of sunlight can be shaded; avoid strong direct light, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow, and in severe cases sunscald will occur. In northern winter greenhouse cultivation, no shading or little shading may be used. If the light is too dim for a long time, it is not easy to bloom. The peace lily is a high-temperature-loving species and should be cultivated in a high-temperature greenhouse. In winter, the minimum nighttime temperature should be 14-16°C, and the daytime temperature should be about 25°C. Long-term low temperature easily causes leaf drop or scorched-yellow condition.

During the growth period, the potting soil should often be kept moist, but excessive watering should be avoided; if the potting soil is wet for a long time, it easily causes root rot and plant yellowing and withering. In summer and dry seasons, water should often be sprayed onto the leaf surface with a fine-nozzle sprayer, and water should also be sprinkled on the ground around the plant to keep the air moist, which is very beneficial to its growth and development. When the climate is dry and air humidity is low, new leaves will become smaller and yellow, and in severe cases wither, yellow and fall off. In winter, watering should be controlled, and it is advisable for the potting soil to be slightly moist.

During the peak growth season, apply a dilute compound fertilizer or decomposed soybean cake fertilizer water once every 1-2 weeks, which is beneficial both for robust plant growth and for continuous blooming. In northern winters, when the temperature is low, fertilization should be stopped.

The potting soil can be evenly mixed with leaf mold or peat soil plus about 1/4 river sand or perlite, and a small amount of bone meal or cake residue can be added as base fertilizer. The potting soil should be loose and have good drainage and air permeability. Generally, once a year in early spring before a large number of new buds sprout, the pot should be changed; when changing the pot, remove part of the old soil, trim the root system, add new culture soil, and plant it in a pot one size larger, so as to facilitate root development and vigorous growth.

Propagation: can be propagated by division and sowing, and can also be propagated in large quantities by tissue culture.

1. Division propagation: because the peace lily easily produces tillers, this method is mostly used for propagation. Vigorously growing plants can be divided once about every 2 years. In early spring before new buds emerge, take the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old soil, and cut the rhizome apart at the base of the clump. Each small clump should preferably have more than 3 stems and buds, and should carry as many roots as possible, so as to facilitate the new plant quickly producing new leaves and a full plant shape.

2. Seed propagation: this method of propagation is not difficult either. In a greenhouse, after artificial pollination, seeds can be obtained. After the seeds mature, sow them as they are harvested; the sowing temperature should be about 25°C, as low temperatures easily cause the seeds to rot.

Pests and diseases: with too much fertilizer or freezing injury, the leaves easily develop yellow tips. At this time, the soil should be changed immediately.

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Dieffenbachia 'Marianne'

Dieffenbachia species are also called variegated dumb cane and silver-spotted dumb cane. Native to tropical America, the plant grows 30-90 cm tall, the flowers are upright, the internodes are short, and the leaves are long elliptical with slightly wavy edges; the leaf surface is covered with various milky white or milky yellow markings or spots. It is shade-tolerant, and the leaf color is gracefully green. Main cultivated varieties include Marianne, KIKI, Golden Sun, White Jade, Many-spotted Zebra, Golden Treasure, Heavenly Dumb Cane, and others.

The optimum growth temperature for Dieffenbachia is 25-30°C, with daytime temperature at 30°C and nighttime temperature at 25°C. The possible growth range is 18-30°C from February to September, and 13-18°C from September to February of the following year. In winter, the temperature should not be lower than 10°C, otherwise the leaves are prone to cold damage.

Dieffenbachia likes environmental humidity of 80%. The soil should be watered when it dries to 2 cm on the surface. During the growth period, it should be watered sufficiently and the leaf surface should also be sprayed with water. If water is not sprayed for a long time, the leaf surface becomes rough and loses its luster. Soil moisture is best when there is an orderly alternation of dry and wet; in summer it should be watered more, and in winter watering should be controlled.

Dieffenbachia is shade-tolerant and afraid of sun. If the light is too strong, the leaf surface becomes rough, and the leaf edges and leaf tips are easily scorched, or even large areas are burned. If the light is too weak, the yellow-white patches will turn green. It grows best under bright scattered light, and the leaf color is brighter and more beautiful.

The soil should preferably be fertile, loose and well-drained loam. The potting soil is a mixed soil of leaf mold and coarse sand.

[Propagation methods] Commonly propagated by cuttings, sowing and tissue culture.

Cutting propagation: cutting in the high-temperature period of July-August is best. Cut off 7-10 cm of the stem tip, remove part of the leaves to reduce water evaporation, insert into a sand bed or wrap the cut with sphagnum moss, maintain relatively high air humidity, and keep room temperature at 24-30°C. After cutting, roots form in 15-25 days. After new buds sprout on the stem section, transplant into pots.

Seed propagation: Dieffenbachia must be artificially pollinated before it sets fruit. After the seeds mature, they should be sown immediately, and the seeds need to be cleaned to avoid mildew and rot. Before sowing, the potting soil should be sterilized; after sowing, cover with 1 cm of soil, maintain room temperature at 24-29°C, and germination occurs 7-14 days after sowing. Transplant when the seedlings are 3 cm tall.

Tissue culture propagation: at present, lateral buds and apical buds have been used as explants. After routine disinfection, they are inoculated on MS medium supplemented with 3 mg/L 6-benzylaminopurine and 2 mg/L naphthaleneacetic acid. After 45 days, when adventitious buds grow to 2 cm, they are transferred to 1/2 MS medium supplemented with 2 mg/L indoleacetic acid. After about 20-25 days, they can root and form complete small plantlets.

[Cultivation and management] Dieffenbachia potted plants commonly use 15-20 cm pots. During the growth period, fertilize once every half month, or use "Huiyou" 20-8-20 four-season high potassium nitrate fertilizer. When room temperature is below 15°C, stop fertilizing. If the winter temperature is below 10°C and watering is excessive, it will cause leaf drop and rotting at the stem tip. If the plant only drops leaves and the stem does not rot, then after the temperature rises again, it can still continue to sprout and unfold leaves. After potted plants grow for 1-2 years, there are more basal tillers, and division propagation can be carried out along with repotting. If the plant grows relatively tall, the above-ground part can be cut off leaving 2-3 nodes at the base; the remaining stem nodes can still sprout and branch, maintaining a good plant shape.

[Pest and disease control] The main damage is from bacterial leaf spot, brown spot and anthracnose, which can be sprayed with 500 times diluted 50% carbendazim wettable powder. Sometimes root rot and stem rot occur; besides paying attention to ventilation and reducing humidity, 800 times diluted 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder can be sprayed for control.

[Post-production handling] Dieffenbachia has large leaves with beautiful color patches, and is suitable for potted viewing, decorating living rooms and studies, very comfortable and elegant. Used to place in public places with low light, Dieffenbachia still grows normally, with green leaves and lush branches and leaves, full of vitality, and is especially suitable for arrangement in modern buildings. Dieffenbachia can endure 14 days in darkness, and can be stored and transported at 15°C and 90% relative humidity.

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Phoenix roebelenii

Phoenix roebelenii, also known as soft-leaved date palm, is a foliage plant of the genus Phoenix in the family Arecaceae.

Phoenix roebelenii is an evergreen shrub with a short, thick stem, usually solitary but also clustered, and the plant grows 1-3 m tall. The leaves are pinnate, upright when young, and slightly curved and drooping after growing a little. There are long spines on both sides of the petiole base, with triangular protrusions, which is one of its characteristics; the leaflets are lanceolate, about 20-30 cm long and about 1 cm wide, relatively soft, and droop in an arc. The spadix is axillary, 20-50 cm long, and the species is dioecious. The fruit is about 1.5 cm long, initially pale green, and jujube-red when mature.

Phoenix roebelenii is native to the Indochina region, and is widely cultivated in various provinces and regions of southern China. There are about 17 species in the same genus, mainly produced in tropical and subtropical regions of Asia and Africa. It likes a hot and humid tropical climate, loves light but is also shade-tolerant, drought-tolerant, barren-tolerant, and prefers well-drained, fertile sandy loam. It has relatively strong cold tolerance, and in winter can overwinter safely at around 0°C.

Phoenix roebelenii is mostly propagated by sowing. After flowering, pollination easily leads to fruit set. The fruit matures in October-November, and after harvest it is sown immediately or sown in the following spring. Sow the seeds in river sand and keep the substrate moist. At 20-30°C, seedlings can emerge in 2-3 months or longer. When the seedling cotyledons reach 5-10 cm, apply dilute liquid fertilizer, then transplant into pots and strengthen water and fertilizer management.

For potting Phoenix roebelenii, 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part garden soil and 1 part river sand can be mixed as the substrate, and a small amount of base fertilizer should be added when planting. It has strong adaptability, and both planting and care are simple. During the vigorous growth period from April to September, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month, keep the potting soil moist, and spray the plant once a day when the air is dry, so as to increase the environmental air humidity and benefit plant growth; in other seasons, fertilize less or not at all, and keep the potting soil alternating between dry and wet. From June to September, when sunlight is strong, shading should be provided (preferably 50% shading) to avoid yellowing of the leaves; in other seasons, give relatively sufficient light to help the plant grow robustly. Phoenix roebelenii is prone to scale insects when the air is dry and ventilation is poor. If scale insects are found, they should be controlled; generally 800 times diluted omethoate can be sprayed to kill them; at the same time, improve ventilation and air permeability conditions.

The branches and leaves of Phoenix roebelenii arch and droop like an umbrella, and the leaves are evenly distributed, green and glossy, making it an excellent potted foliage plant. Using it to decorate indoors can fill the space with a tropical flavor. Generally, small and medium pots are suitable for living rooms, studies and other places, appearing elegant and generous; large potted plants are often used to decorate conference venues, halls and so on, appearing solemn and majestic.

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Cast iron plant

Scientific name: Aspidistra elatior

English name: Common Aspidistra

Aliases: spider egg-embracing plant, ruo leaf

Family name: Liliaceae

Morphological characteristics:

Evergreen herb with rhizomes. Leaves elliptical and needle-lanceolate, dark green, with slightly wavy edges. Flowers bell-shaped. Flowering period April. Capsule spherical. Likes shade and cannot tolerate strong light, likes warmth and is relatively cold-tolerant, likes moisture, and prefers well-drained, fertile sandy loam.

Aglaonema 'Silver Queen'

Latin name: Aglaonema commulatum cv. Silvcr Queen

Aliases: silver queen dumb cane, silver queen Chinese evergreen, silver queen Aglaonema

Botanical characteristics: > It is a perennial herbaceous plant. The plant grows 30-40 cm tall, with an upright, unbranched stem and obvious internodes. Leaves are alternate, with long petioles, the base expanded into a sheath shape, the leaves narrow and long, pale green, with gray-green stripes on the leaf surface, and the area is relatively large.

Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' is famous for its unique air purification ability: the higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the more it can exert its purification ability! Therefore, it is very suitable for dark rooms with poor ventilation conditions.

This plant with gray-white leaves likes to live in a constant-temperature environment. If watered with warm water, it can survive for a relatively long time.

Can remove: formaldehyde, nicotine

“Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' can absorb printer radiation.”

Snake plant

Snake plant, also known as tiger skin plant and thousand-year plant, is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant of the genus Sansevieria in the family Liliaceae.

The underground part of the snake plant has tough rhizomes, and it has no stem. Leaves are clustered, fleshy linear-lanceolate, hard leathery, upright, with the base slightly grooved; dark green, with horizontal bands alternating between pale green and dark green on both sides, slightly covered with white powder. Raceme, flowers white to pale green, with a sweet and elegant fragrance; flowering period spring and summer. Common cultivated varieties include:

Golden-edged snake plant: shaped like the snake plant, but the leaf edges are bordered with broad golden-yellow bands.

Short-spiked snake plant: a dwarf species, about 10-20 cm tall, a mutant of the golden-edged snake plant, with short and wide leaves that grow in whorled, overlapping form.

Onion-leaf snake plant: also called cylindrical-leaf snake plant. The leaves are cylindrical, roughly the same thickness from top to bottom throughout the leaf, slightly pointed and slender at the tip, with longitudinally running shallow groove-like depressions on the leaf surface, and each leaf grows independently.

The snake plant is native to arid Africa and southern Asia, and is cultivated throughout China. It has strong adaptability, likes warm and humid conditions, is drought-tolerant, loves light and is also shade-tolerant. It is not strict about soil, and sandy loam with good drainage is better. Its optimum growth temperature is 20-30°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C.

The snake plant can be propagated by division and cuttings. After the temperature rises each spring, carry out division along with repotting, that is, take the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old culture soil, expose the rhizome, and cut it along its direction into several plants, so that each plant contains at least 3-4 mature leaves, then plant them separately in new culture soil in pots. The propagation material for cuttings is leaves (that is, leaf cuttings), and it can be done when the temperature is above 15°C. Cut mature leaves horizontally into 7-8 cm long segments as cuttings, let them dry slightly, and then insert them into river sand. When cutting, be careful not to insert them upside down; maintain a certain humidity, but it should not be too wet, so as to avoid rot. In about a month, adventitious buds and adventitious roots can grow from the cut surface, forming new plants. Small seedlings propagated by leaf cuttings from golden-edged and variegated varieties are green seedlings, and the golden edges and patches disappear, reducing ornamental value, so these varieties are not suitable for leaf cutting propagation and can only be propagated by division.

For potting the snake plant, equal parts of leaf mold and garden soil mixed with a small amount of decomposed base fertilizer can be used as the substrate. It grows well under conditions of sufficient light. Apart from avoiding direct scorching sunlight in midsummer, it should receive more sunlight in other seasons; if placed in a too dim indoor place for too long, the leaves will become dull and lack vitality. In addition, if it has been placed indoors for a long time, it should not be suddenly moved directly into the sun; it should first be moved to a brighter place to let it have an adaptation process before receiving sunlight, so as to avoid burning the leaves. Watering should be moderate, and the principle of preferring dry over wet should be grasped. Usually wipe dust from the leaf surface with clean water to keep the leaves clean and bright. In spring, when new plants sprout at the root crown, water appropriately more to keep the potting soil moist; in the high-temperature summer season, the potting soil should also often be kept moist; after late autumn, watering should be controlled, and the potting soil should be kept relatively dry to enhance cold resistance. It does not have high fertilizer requirements; during the growing season, apply dilute liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month to ensure the leaves are verdant and thick.

The leaves of the snake plant are firm and upright, and the leaf surface has tiger-tail-like horizontal band markings alternating between gray-white and dark green. Its posture is resolute, peculiar and interesting; it has many varieties, and the plant shape and leaf color vary greatly, exquisite and unique; it has strong adaptability to the environment and is a tenacious plant, widely cultivated and used, and is a common indoor potted foliage plant. It is suitable for decorating studies, living rooms and office places, and can be appreciated for a relatively long time.

Lucky bamboo

Lucky bamboo, also known as Dracaena sanderiana, is a foliage plant of the genus Dracaena in the family Liliaceae. Lucky bamboo is an evergreen small tree, with no underground rhizome, and the roots are yellowish brown. The markings and colors on the leaf surface vary by variety. Common cultivated varieties include: golden-edged lucky bamboo: the leaf edges are golden yellow and the center is green. It likes a hot and humid environment, is not strict about light requirements, loves light and is also shade-tolerant. It is suitable for well-drained sandy loam. The optimum growth temperature is 20-30°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C.

Lucky bamboo is propagated by cuttings. Cuttings are mostly carried out along with shaping and pruning. As lucky bamboo grows taller over many years, the leaves at the base of the stem often fall off and the plant shape deteriorates; during the growing season, the stem can be cut into 5-10 cm lengths as cuttings, inserted into vermiculite or river sand, and generally roots and sprouts appear in 1-2 weeks.

For potting lucky bamboo, equal parts of leaf mold, garden soil and river sand can be mixed for planting, or coconut coir and leaf mold plus a small amount of base fertilizer can be used as culture soil. In management, the key is to master humidity and temperature well. During the growing season, the potting soil should often be kept moist, and water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface to maintain relatively high environmental humidity; being too dry will cause the leaf tips to dry up; in winter, the potting soil should not be too wet, but the leaf surface should still be sprayed often, and at the same time attention should be paid to cold protection, so as to avoid the leaves turning yellow, shrinking and even falling off. In the vigorous growth period from May to September, apply liquid fertilizer or granular compound fertilizer 2-3 times a month to keep the leaves green and glossy. It is not strict about light requirements, and is suitable for growing under bright scattered light; avoid direct scorching sunlight; if exposed to the sun or dried out, the leaf surface will become rough and scorched, lacking luster, reducing ornamental value.

Anthurium

Anthurium scientific name: Anthurium andraeanum

Anthurium aliases: flamingo flower, flamingo lily, Anthurium, red flamingo lily.

Anthurium family and genus: Araceae, genus Anthurium.

Anthurium origin and distribution:

Anthurium is native to tropical regions of the Americas and likes a warm and humid climate environment. It likes warm, humid and semi-shaded environments, but is not shade-tolerant; it likes sunlight but avoids direct sunlight, is not cold-tolerant, likes fertilizer but avoids saline-alkali conditions. At present, greenhouses with light, temperature and water regulation systems are used for cut flower cultivation. In frost-free hot areas of Yunnan, simple shade sheds have also been used to cultivate very good cut flowers and potted flowers. With the improvement of economic levels, Anthurium, as a high-grade flower, has good application prospects. Anthurium flowers are unique, with bright and gorgeous spathes, rich and highly varied colors, and a long flowering period, blooming continuously throughout the four seasons. The vase life is very long, with water culture lasting up to 1 month, and a single potted flower can last 4-6 months. The optimum growth temperature is 25-28°C, and the overwintering temperature should be kept above 15°C. It requires loose, breathable, well-drained acidic soil rich in humus with a pH of 5.5-6.5.

Anthurium morphological characteristics:

It is a perennial herb of Araceae, with a plant height of 30-70 cm. Leaves emerge from the short stem, leathery, long heart-shaped, entire, with hard and slender petioles, 30-40 cm long and about 10 cm wide. The flower is terminal, about 50 cm long, and the spathe is heart-shaped, 10-20 cm long and 8-10 cm wide, with a wavy and wrinkled surface. The spathe has a bright waxy luster. The spadix is cylindrical, upright, about 6 cm long, yellow, and at first glance looks like an artificial flower. The flower posture is peculiar and beautiful, and the cut flower life is more than 30 days, making it a high-grade flower material for flower arrangements. There are many similar varieties, with flower colors including red, peach red, vermilion, white, red with green stripes, green, orange and so on. The flowering period is long, and it can bloom all year round. It is a perennial epiphytic evergreen herbaceous flower. The plant can reach 1 m tall, with short internodes. Leaves emerge from the rhizome, with long petioles, solitary, oblong-cordate or ovate, deep bright green, glossy. Flower buds emerge from the leaf axils, and the spathe is upright and spreading, leathery, perfectly round-ovate, orange-red or scarlet. Its variant varieties include those with milky white spathes, those inlaid with white-green, multicolored, and those with exquisite red edges, extremely varied. The spadix is sessile, cylindrical, upright, slightly leaning outward. Flowers are bisexual, with a perianth of four lobes, 4 stamens, and a 2-loculed ovary, each locule with 1-2 ovules. The small berry contains 2-4 seeds, pink, densely clustered on the spadix. It is one of the most precious cut flower varieties today, and because its flowers are bright and eye-catching, covered with wax, and have a long freshness period, it has become an important flower arrangement ornament for high-grade occasions.

Anthurium ecological habits:

It likes an environment with high air humidity and smooth drainage, and likes shade and warmth. In an environment where the daytime temperature is not higher than 28°C and the nighttime temperature is not lower than 20°C, it can bloom and bear fruit all year round. Above 35°C will cause sunscald, below 14°C will affect growth, and a sustained low temperature below 0°C will freeze the plant to death. It requires air humidity of 80%, soil pH of 5.5, and an Ec value of 1.2 is suitable. It requires loose, fertile soil, and soilless cultivation is best.

Anthurium propagation and cultivation

The optimum growth temperature for Anthurium is 20-30°C, the maximum temperature should not exceed 35°C, and the minimum temperature is 14°C; below 10°C there is a possibility of cold damage at any time. The optimum relative air humidity is 70%-80%, and it should not be lower than 50%, because maintaining relatively high air humidity in the cultivation environment is the key to successful Anthurium cultivation. Therefore, leaf surface spraying should be carried out many times throughout the four seasons. Anthurium is not tolerant of strong light, and year-round cultivation should be in an appropriately shaded environment, that is, choose greenhouse cultivation with protective facilities. In spring, summer and autumn, appropriate shading should be provided, especially in summer, where 70% shading is needed. Direct sunlight will make the leaf temperature higher than the air temperature. If the leaf temperature is too high, burning, scorched leaves, fading of flower buds and slowed leaf growth will occur.

1. Anthurium propagation: usually by division, but at present tissue culture is mostly used for mass propagation, and seed propagation is used in breeding. For division, in spring the tiller buds at the rhizome of the adult mother plant can be separated and planted separately; tissue culture mostly uses young leaves as explants, inducing callus to differentiate into clustered buds, then inducing rooting to form seedlings. From inoculation to seedling transplanting takes about 4 months, and after planting it blooms in 2-3 years.

2. Anthurium cultivation: Anthurium is mostly cultivated as a cut flower in greenhouses, and can also be potted for viewing. It requires a greenhouse with heating, ventilation and cooling, and shading conditions. Soilless cultivation is mostly carried out, and the cultivation substrate is preferably a mixture of 1/3 vermiculite, 1/3 perlite and 1/3 peat. Usually planted from January to May, when the seedlings have grown to 6-7 leaves and are about 30 cm tall. Make ridges 30 cm high, plant on the ridges, with a spacing of 30×40 cm, use drip irrigation, and apply nutrient solution twice a week. During the growth period, pay attention to temperature, humidity and light regulation. The optimum temperature is 27-28°C; during high summer temperatures, spray water and ventilate to cool down; in winter, keep the nighttime temperature at 15°C. Adjust the light to 20000-25000 lux, and provide shading treatment when it is too strong. Strong light and high temperature in summer easily cause leaf burning. Too much watering or poor drainage easily causes root rot. The suitable time for harvesting cut flowers is when the yellow part of the spadix accounts for 1/4-1/3, cut from the base of the peduncle. Insert into water immediately after harvesting. When transportation is needed, fix each stem individually and place them flat in layers in a box. Anthurium lasts a long time in water; during water culture, change the clean water once every 2-3 days, and cut off 1 cm from the base of the flower stem to keep the cut fresh and facilitate water uptake. It can be stored for 3-4 weeks at 13°C and still remain fresh; below 7°C cold damage occurs. For potting, the potting soil can be peat or leaf mold plus decomposed horse manure and an appropriate amount of perlite, or 2/3 leaf mold plus 1/3 river sand. Pot when there are 5-6 leaves; use small pots for small seedlings, and gradually change to larger pots as they grow, placing more broken tile pieces at the bottom of the pot to facilitate ventilation and air exhaust. Change the pot once every 1-2 years, and watering is best done by spraying the leaf surface to keep the leaves moist. During the growth period, apply dilute alum fertilizer water once a week.

Anthurium pest and disease control

The main pests of Anthurium are red spiders and scale insects; the main diseases are anthracnose and leaf spot, which can be controlled by spraying 1000 times diluted omethoate and thiophanate-methyl respectively.

Anthurium is very popular because of its unique flower shape, brilliant flower color, year-round blooming, and its ability to be cultivated both as a cut flower and viewed as a potted flower. The spathe of Anthurium used as a cut flower is exceptionally bright red and waxy and shiny, with a long vase life. When potted for viewing, in spring when it blooms, the green leaves paired with the bright red spathe are very beautiful. When there are flowers, enjoy the flowers; when there are no flowers, enjoy the leaves. It is an excellent small indoor potted flower. It is often used for the beautification and arrangement of family rooms, living rooms and meeting rooms. In the global tropical flower trade, Anthurium sales rank second only to orchids. Anthurium is mainly used as a cut flower. In recent years, due to the continuous breeding of new multi-flower varieties.

Philodendron 'Emerald Gem'

Philodendron 'Emerald Gem', also known as long heart-leaf philodendron and emerald gem, is a perennial evergreen climbing foliage plant of the genus Philodendron in the family Araceae.

Philodendron 'Emerald Gem' is a climbing species, with thick and strong stems and aerial roots at the nodes. The leaves are long heart-shaped, 25-35 cm long and 12-18 cm wide, with an abrupt tip at the end, a deep heart-shaped base, green, entire, and glossy. The young shoots and leaf sheaths are both green. Excellent related varieties in the same genus include:

Philodendron 'Red Emerald': also known as red emerald, the leaves and stems are dark red.

Red-petiole philodendron: the petioles, leaf undersides and young new growth are often dark red.

Violin-leaf philodendron: also called split-leaf philodendron, the leaves are violin-shaped, 5-lobed, with wide basal lobes in an ear shape, narrow in the middle, and a long elliptical apex, dark green in color and glossy.

Heart-leaf philodendron: also known as sharp heart climbing philodendron and round-leaf philodendron, with green stems and leaves and heart-shaped leaves.

Philodendron 'Emerald Gem' and most others are native to tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas, climbing and growing on tree trunks and rocks. They like warm, humid and semi-shaded environments. The optimum growth temperature is 20-28°C, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C.

Philodendron 'Emerald Gem' is mostly propagated by cuttings, and roots very easily in the hot season. Generally from April to August, cut 3-4 nodes of the stem, remove the lower leaves, insert the cuttings into a substrate of half leaf mold and half river sand, and keep the substrate and air moist. After 2-3 weeks, they can root and be potted.

The best potting substrate for Philodendron 'Emerald Gem' is loam rich in humus and well-drained. Generally it can be prepared with 1 part leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, 1 part peat soil and a small amount of river sand and base fertilizer. When planting, a column can be placed in the pot, and 3-5 small seedlings planted around it to let them climb and grow. It likes a hot and humid environment and must keep the potting soil moist, especially in summer when it cannot lack water, and the leaf surface should also be sprayed often; but avoid water accumulation in the potting soil, otherwise the leaves easily turn yellow. Generally water once a day in spring and summer, once every 3-5 days in autumn; in winter, watering should be reduced, but the potting soil should not be completely dry. During the growing season, attention should often be paid to topdressing, generally fertilizing 1-2 times a month; in late autumn and winter, growth is slow or stops, so fertilization should be stopped. It likes bright light and avoids strong sunlight. Generally during the growing season, 50%-60% shading is needed; but it can also endure a dark indoor environment, although too weak light for a long time easily causes leggy growth, longer internodes, and thin and weak growth, which is not conducive to viewing.

The leaves of Philodendron 'Emerald Gem' are broad, large and deep green. When grown as a climber, it can form a green round shape, with a neat and robust plant form, full of tropical style. It has strong shade tolerance and is extremely suitable for indoor decorative cultivation. It is often cultivated as medium and large plants, placed in halls, meeting rooms, offices and other places, and is extremely spectacular.

Spider plant

Spider plant is a perennial evergreen foliage plant of the genus Chlorophytum in the family Liliaceae. Spider plant is a perennial herb with clustered cylindrical fleshy fibrous roots and rhizomes. The biggest characteristic of spider plant is that mature plants will from time to time produce stolons, and small plantlets will grow at the tips of the stolons. The scape is slender, longer than the leaves, and curved and drooping; the flowers are white, several per cluster, sparsely scattered on the inflorescence axis. The flowering period is between spring and summer, and it can also bloom indoors in winter. At present, in addition to the pure green-leaf spider plant, horticultural varieties also include large-leaf spider plant, golden-center spider plant and golden-edged spider plant. It likes a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment. It has strong adaptability, is relatively drought-tolerant and cold-tolerant. It is not choosy about soil, and grows better in loose sandy loam. It is not strict about light requirements; generally it is suitable for growing under medium light conditions, and it is also tolerant of weak light. The optimum growth temperature is 15-25°C, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C.

Spider plant can be propagated by division. Except in winter when the temperature is too low for division, it can be done in other seasons. For plants potted for 2-3 years, divide the dense potted seedlings into two to several clumps when repotting in spring, and pot them separately as new plants. Spider plant can also be propagated using the small plantlets on the stolons. During the growing season, cut off the small plantlets on the stolons, plant them in culture soil or water, and after the small plantlets have rooted, transplant them into pots.

For potting spider plant, equal parts of leaf mold or peat soil, garden soil and river sand mixed with a small amount of base fertilizer are commonly used as the substrate. Change the pot once every 2-3 years, and re-mix the culture soil. Its fleshy roots have well-developed water-storage tissue and relatively strong drought resistance, but from March to September during the vigorous growth period it needs a relatively large amount of water, so it should be watered and sprayed often to increase humidity; after autumn, gradually reduce watering to improve the plant's cold resistance. During the vigorous growth period, apply dilute liquid fertilizer twice a month. The fertilizer should be mainly nitrogen fertilizer, but golden-center and golden-edged varieties should not be given excessive nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the linear markings on the leaves will become inconspicuous. Spider plant likes a semi-shaded environment. If the placement location has too strong or insufficient light, the leaves will easily turn pale green or yellow-green, lack vitality, lose their proper ornamental value, and may even dry up and die; if in direct sunlight with dry air, spider plant is most likely to become scorched, so it should be placed in a cool and ventilated place, and attention should be paid to maintaining environmental humidity. Spider plant is not prone to pests and diseases, but if the potting soil accumulates water and ventilation is poor, besides causing root rot, root rot disease may also occur, so attention should be paid to spraying pesticides for control.

Spider plant has stems and leaves like orchids, evergreen throughout the four seasons, and when suspended indoors it can be called an “air flower.” The creeping stems it sends out from the leaf axils produce many small plantlets with roots, hanging down along the pot, very elegant. Spider plant is also called an indoor air “purifier”; it can absorb carbon monoxide, nitrogen peroxide and other volatile gases, purifying the room air and benefiting human health. However, spider plant often easily has withered leaf tips, affecting its appearance, so attention must be paid to prevention and control. The method of prevention and control should start from the causes: There are more than 200 kinds of spider plant, and common ones include golden-edged and silver-edged spider plant, golden-center spider plant and entire-leaf spider plant. Spider plant is native to South Africa, South America and tropical regions of Asia. It likes warmth, semi-shade and humidity, and is not cold-tolerant. If there is insufficient water in summer and autumn, or heavy frost in winter, the leaf tips often easily wither. Specific prevention and control methods can be taken as follows: (1) Often pay attention to watering and spraying to keep the potting soil and surrounding air moist. Because it has many leaves and is suspended in the air, or placed in a ventilated place on a balcony, it needs a relatively large amount of water. This requires frequent watering and spraying of the potting soil, leaf surface and around the pot. Generally in summer and autumn, water and spray 1-2 times a day in the morning and evening; in winter and spring, water once every 4-5 days, less in winter and a little more in spring. Only in this way can the potting soil remain moist and the air humid. At the same time, the spider plant leaves should also be cleaned of dust in time to keep them fresh and enhance their ornamental value. (2) Place the flowerpot in a semi-shaded place to prevent strong light exposure. Although spider plant needs an appropriate amount of light, it avoids direct sunlight, otherwise it also easily causes leaf withering. (3) Spider plant is suitable for a large pot with few plants, and likes sandy loam with good drainage and air permeability. For a medium-sized flowerpot, generally planting 2-3 plants is suitable. If there are too many plants, the water requirement is also greater; if the pot is small and the soil water supply is insufficient, the leaves also easily wither. Attention should also be paid to often cutting off withered and dead leaves. It can also be combined with repotting in spring or autumn each year, changing smaller pots to larger pots for planting, and at the same time removing excess branches and leaves.

Golden barrel cactus

Golden barrel cactus, also known as yellow-spined golden barrel cactus, is the most charming cactus ball species in the genus Echinocactus of the family Cactaceae. There are also several main variants in cultivation, such as white-spined golden barrel cactus, wild-spined golden barrel cactus, short-spined golden barrel cactus, golden barrel cactus variegata, golden barrel cactus cristata and so on.

Origin and habits: The golden barrel cactus is native to the desert regions of Mexico, and has now been introduced and cultivated in both southern and northern China. The golden barrel cactus likes sufficient sunlight, and mostly prefers fertile sandy loam with good water permeability. During the high-temperature hot summer period, appropriate shading should be provided to prevent the ball from being burned by strong light.

Morphological characteristics: The stem of the golden barrel cactus is spherical, the ball is dark green, densely covered with yellow hard spines, and the top of the ball is densely covered with golden-yellow wool; the flowers are yellow, terminal in the wool cluster, of equal size, very beautiful and spectacular; the fruit is covered with scales and wool, and the seeds are black and smooth.

Propagation techniques: The golden barrel cactus is propagated by sowing and by grafting young balls. 1. Sowing method: using seeds harvested in the same year gives a high germination rate. Sowing is carried out from May to September. After germination, 30-40 days later the seedling ball has reached the size of a grain of rice or a mung bean, and can be transplanted or grafted onto a rootstock for accelerated growth. 2. Young ball grafting method: grafting seedlings cultivated for more than 3 months onto tender Hylocereus undatus for accelerated growth. When the scion has grown to a certain size or the rootstock can no longer support it, it can be cut off, dried at the wound, and then used for cutting and potting. In a good environment with fertile soil and air circulation, seedlings that have not been grafted also grow quickly. After potting, the seedlings or grafted young balls should be placed in semi-shade, avoiding direct sunlight; if the ball does not shrink after 7-10 days, it has survived.

Management techniques: The golden barrel cactus likes calcareous sandy loam, which can be prepared by mixing equal amounts of coarse sand, loam, leaf mold and a small amount of old wall ash. Once a year, repot and change the soil and cut off old roots. In mid-March, take the ball out of the pot, cut off the old roots, and do not damage the main root. After cutting, place the ball in a ventilated place to dry for 4-5 days to let the cut dry; the new culture soil used for repotting should use fermented livestock and poultry manure as base fertilizer, add coal ash, plant ash and a small amount of animal bone meal, and mix evenly; the pot should be disinfected by sun exposure, steaming and spraying, to prevent ball rot.

The golden barrel cactus likes sufficient sunlight, but in summer it should be in semi-shade. When the temperature reaches above 35°C, shading should be provided around noon to avoid strong sunlight burning the ball. Before 10 a.m. or after 5 p.m., it can be placed in the sun to encourage more flower buds and avoid excessive shading, which makes the ball elongated and reduces ornamental value. Keep the overwintering temperature at 8-10°C and keep the potting soil dry. If the temperature is too low, the ball will develop yellow spots. In summer, protect it from rain.

Summer is the peak growing season for the golden barrel cactus (Echinocactus grusonii), and its water needs increase. If there is a drought, water it frequently, preferably in the early morning and late afternoon. Never water it with very cold water at the hot midday, as this easily causes "chilling" and leads to disease. If the potting soil is too dry at noon, just spray a little water to moisten the surface of the pot; do not spray water on the top of the ball or on the grafted area, to avoid water accumulation and rot. During the growing season, apply 1 to 2 times about every half month a dilute liquid fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other ingredients, applied together with watering. Organic fertilizer must be fully decomposed, and the concentration should be appropriate.

The golden barrel cactus is naturally robust and highly resistant to disease, but in summer, due to factors such as humidity, heat and poor ventilation, it is easily harmed by red spider mites, scale insects, whiteflies and other pests and diseases, so control should be strengthened. For harm from red spider mites, scale insects, whiteflies and other pests and diseases, control should be strengthened. For red spider mites, spray with a 1000 to 1500 times dilution of 40% dimethoate or 90% trichlorfon. When scale insects, whiteflies and the like are found causing damage, they can be removed by hand.

Ornamental value: The golden barrel cactus has a very long lifespan, is easy to cultivate, and mature large golden barrel cacti have abundant flowers and robust balls, resplendent in gold and jade, with very high ornamental value. Moreover, it is small in size and takes up little space, making it an ideal ornamental plant for urban home landscaping.

Safe tree (Cinnamon)

The safe tree is an elegant name for plants of the cinnamon group in the Lauraceae family, genus Cinnamomum. It is an evergreen small tree, with green, smooth, hairless branchlets, opposite or nearly opposite leaves, ovate-oblong, with pointed tips, thickly leathery, leaves about 10 cm to 22 cm long, 5 cm to 8 cm wide, bright green on the upper surface with a metallic luster, grayish green to yellow-green on the underside, with prominent triplinerved veins. It is a relatively popular foliage plant.

It likes a warm, humid environment with ample sunlight, is fairly shade-tolerant, and prefers a warm, hot environment without frost or snow, with much fog and high humidity; it is not tolerant of drought, severe cold or saline-alkaline conditions. For cultivation, use loose, fertile, well-drained, acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter. Its optimum growth temperature is 22°C to 30°C, and it is not tolerant of low temperatures below 5°C. It should be brought indoors before Frost's Descent and moved out after Pure Brightness. Its light requirements are as follows: from mid-May to mid-October, it should be given 40% to 50% shading; too strong light easily causes the leaves to be scorched, but if placed for a long time in a bright spot indoors, it can also grow well. During the growing season, always keep the potting soil moist, and frequently spray water on the leaves and the surrounding environment, keeping the relative air humidity at around 80%. In northern regions, add 0.1% ferrous sulfate powder to the irrigation water, or drip in a small amount of edible vinegar, to increase the acidity of the water and meet its need for an acidic soil environment. For potted plants, during the growing season it is best to loosen the soil once a month, always keeping its root system in a well-aerated state. After the plant sends out new leaves, apply a dilute cake fertilizer solution once a month; after autumn begins, apply 2 consecutive topdressings of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution to increase the plant's cold resistance. When fertilizing, avoid raw fertilizer, concentrated fertilizer and heavy fertilizer, and especially do not use highly concentrated chemical fertilizer solutions, otherwise it easily causes fertilizer burn to the roots, leading to yellowing and scorching of the leaves and death of the plant.

Under conditions of poor indoor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and inadequate light, the leaves are prone to brown spot disease, but it usually occurs mostly from April to May. Its symptoms are as follows: it mostly occurs on new leaves, initially appearing on the leaf surface as elliptical yellow-brown spots, which then continuously expand, and on the upper surface of the leaf more small black dots appear within the spots, while the underside of the spots is purple; after the whole leaf turns yellow, it withers and falls off. Control methods: when a small number of diseased leaves are found, promptly pick them off and burn them. In the early stage of the disease, spray with a 500 times dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder, once every 10 days, for 3 to 4 consecutive times. For a small number of spots on household potted plants, apply miconazole nitrate cream, which can inhibit the expansion of the spots.

Yellowing and shedding of leaves may be caused by the following aspects: First, it may be a newly potted plant bought back from the south, with severely damaged roots, compounded by long-distance transport, cold weather and other reasons. Second, the indoor temperature in winter is below 5°C, and cold damage causes yellowing and leaf drop. Third, excessive watering leads to root rot and causes the plant to yellow and drop leaves. Fourth, the water quality is somewhat alkaline, causing the leaves to slowly yellow. Fifth, improper fertilization, with too much or too concentrated fertilizer, causes the nutrient fibrous roots to lose water, shrink and die. For a plant whose leaves have yellowed and dropped, check its root system; if part of the roots have already rotted, cut off the rotten part and replant it in clean, fresh potting soil. Around the cut at the root, surround it with a ring of moist fine sand, which can promote healing of the wound and the sprouting of new roots. For branches and leaves that have already withered and died, cut them all off. After repotting, spray more and water less, keeping the potting soil moist. After mid-April, only when the outdoor temperature is not lower than 15°C may it be moved outdoors, and only after new leaves have grown may normal fertilization be resumed

Zebra dumb cane

Zebra dumb cane, also called giant dumb cane and dumb sugarcane, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the Araceae family. Its stem is cylindrical and fleshy, and the stem often has white ring markings, which are the traces left after leaves fall off. The leaves of the zebra dumb cane are long elliptical, and on both sides of the green main leaf vein, irregular white or goose-yellow spots and stripes are scattered across the leaf surface, appearing especially graceful and elegant, like the stripes on a zebra, hence the name zebra-leaf dumb cane.

The zebra dumb cane is native to Colombia and likes a warm, humid climate. Its optimum growth temperature is 25°C to 30°C, and the indoor temperature in winter should also be maintained at around 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. For potting soil, mix 7 parts leaf mold, 3 parts loam and 1 part sand. The zebra-leaf dumb cane likes a semi-shaded environment and avoids direct sunlight, and can be cultivated indoors all year round. It is tolerant of water and moisture; a water tray can be placed under the pot, with water in the tray, so that water continuously seeps into the potting soil from the small holes at the bottom of the pot. In winter, watering should be controlled, and the lower the temperature, the more attention should be paid to watering less. In winter, some leaves may turn yellow and fall off, but as long as they are not frost-damaged, new leaves can grow again the following spring. If it is placed indoors for the winter and grows weakly with a tendency to become leggy, it can be placed outdoors in a semi-shaded spot during the growing season for a period of time, and moved back indoors after its vitality recovers. Fertilization can be carried out during the growing season, depending on its growth vigor, once or twice a month, mostly with decomposed liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer, to promote a verdant leaf color, but nitrogen fertilizer should not be used too much.

Its "flower" is the typical spathe-and-spadix inflorescence of the Araceae family. It rarely or does not set seed, so it is difficult to propagate by seed. Propagation is basically asexual, with the main methods being tissue culture and cuttings. Tissue culture propagation has a high success rate and low cost, but requires certain equipment and conditions. The cutting method is to cut the old stem into 10 to 15 cm segments in spring and insert them obliquely into sandy soil, keeping them moist; after they take root and grow leaves, transplant them into pots. It is also possible, during the peak growing season, to cut the stem into small segments with one or two nodes, about five or six cm long, let them dry for a few days until the cut surface is dry, and then plant them directly in a pot, keeping them moist, and they will quickly take root and grow leaves. You can also cut a stem segment with leaves and insert it into a transparent glass water bottle, fixing it with white rice stone used for architectural decoration, and in about half a month you can see it grow pure white, jade-like fibrous roots, so you can enjoy both the leaves and the roots. Because its sap is toxic, take care during handling not to let it touch the skin, mouth or eyes. There are more than 30 varieties in the same genus as the zebra-leaf dumb cane, which also have a certain ornamental value, but this species is the largest; its leaves are thick and hard, with elegant and beautiful markings and luster, and the plant is tall with a stout stem, making it an ideal indoor ornamental treasure.

Maidenhair fern

Maidenhair fern: also called wire grass and iron-wire grass, it is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant of the genus Adiantum in the Adiantaceae family.

The maidenhair fern is a small to medium-sized terrestrial fern, with a plant height of 10-40 cm. Its rhizome grows horizontally, densely covered with brown scales, and its leaf stalks are slender but hard, like iron wire, hence the name maidenhair fern. Its ecological habit is to like warm, humid and semi-shaded environments.

The maidenhair fern is mainly propagated by division. Division is best done in spring before the new buds sprout, in conjunction with repotting. Knock the plant that has filled the pot out of the pot, remove most of the old potting soil, cut its rhizome, divide it into two to several clumps, and pot them separately. In addition, after the spores of the maidenhair fern mature, they scatter in a warm, humid environment and reproduce and grow on their own; when they have grown to a certain size, they can also be potted.

The maidenhair fern likes loose, permeable, fertile calcareous sandy loam. When potting, the potting soil can be made by mixing equal parts loam, leaf mold and river sand. During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once a week, and take care to always keep the potting soil moist and the air humidity relatively high. In dry seasons, frequently sprinkle water on the ground around the plant to increase air humidity. The maidenhair fern likes bright scattered light and avoids direct sunlight. If the light is too strong, the leaves turn yellow and may even die. It likes warmth and is also cold-tolerant; its optimum growth temperature is 13-22°C, and its winter overwintering temperature is 5°C

Dragon tree (Dragon's blood tree)

The dragon tree (Dracaena draco) is a species in the dragon's blood tree group, of the genus Dracaena in the Agavaceae family.

The dragon tree was originally a wild plant in the tropical forests of Hainan Island. After artificial domestication and cultivation, it has now become a shade-loving plant suitable for indoor display.

Morphological characteristics: Evergreen tree. The plant height can reach 10 m, and it is slightly branched. The leaves are mostly densely borne on a flat crown, sword-shaped, 45 cm to 60 cm long, 3 cm to 4 cm wide, hard and upright, bright green. The panicle inflorescence has white flowers tinged with green. What is commonly seen in cultivation is a stemless or short-stemmed young foliage tree.

Key points for propagation and cultivation: It can be propagated by cuttings, layering or sowing. For cuttings, in early spring use mature thick branches, remove the leaves, cut them into 5 cm to 10 cm segments, and lay them flat in a hotbed with bottom heat, maintaining a temperature of 25°C to 30°C and relatively humid air; they can take root in about 1 month. For outdoor cuttings in summer, a shade frame must be set up to block light. For sowing, seeds can be collected from larger old plants and sown in spring. The cultivation soil should be a mixed fertile soil made of leaf mold, clay loam and sand.

Application value: The dragon tree is both a foliage flower and a flowering flower; it is suitable as background material for decorating the rostrum of large conference venues, and is extremely spectacular. The leaf bases, stems and branches can be used to extract traditional Chinese medicine, which has a hemostatic effect.

Broadleaf lady palm

[Aliases] Guanyin bamboo, palm bamboo

[Family and genus] Arecaceae, genus Rhapis

[Place of origin] Southeastern, southern and southwestern China, Japan

[Growth habits] It likes a warm, humid, semi-shaded, well-ventilated environment. It is drought-tolerant and afraid of blazing sun. Its optimum growth temperature is 25-30 degrees, and the nighttime temperature in winter is best not lower than 5 degrees, but it can tolerate short-term low temperatures of around 0 degrees. It should avoid prolonged cold wind, frost and snow. Generally, potted plants can safely overwinter indoors

[Soil] It likes fertile, well-drained sandy loam, and grows well in slightly acidic sandy loam rich in humus

[Temperature and environment] It likes a warm, humid, semi-shaded, ventilated environment. It grows well in a semi-shaded environment. In summer and autumn, avoid direct sunlight, and it is best to provide about 70% shade. In summer especially, avoid blazing sun exposure, otherwise the leaves turn yellow and the plant grows slowly. In winter and spring, more light is better

[Water and fertilizer] During the peak growing period from May to September, water more to keep the soil moist; it is better to keep it wet than dry, but it must not become waterlogged, otherwise the roots easily rot. During high-temperature periods, also frequently spray water on the leaves and ground to increase air humidity, and appropriately reduce the amount of watering in autumn and winter. During the growing period, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month to the broadleaf lady palm, which can promote a deep, verdant leaf color; stop fertilizing in winter

[Pest and disease control] In a well-ventilated environment there are few pests and diseases. If ventilation is poor, scale insects and aphids easily occur. If only a small number appear, promptly remove them by hand, pay attention to ventilation and air flow, and promptly prune dead branches and fallen leaves

[Economic value] This species is a traditional excellent foliage plant in our country. Its plant form is compact and elegant, its leaf shape is delicate, and it has a tropical charm as well as the gracefulness of bamboo. It is suitable for potted display and appreciation in homes, offices, conference rooms, entrance halls and the like

Tree philodendron

English name: Lacy tree philodendron

Family and genus: Araceae, genus Philodendron

Scientific name: Philodenron selloum Koch

The tree philodendron was originally named Philodendron selloum (split-leaf philodendron). It is native to Brazil, Paraguay and other places, and is a perennial herb. The plant height can reach 1 meter; the stem is stout and upright, with a diameter of up to 10 cm, and the stem has obvious leaf scars and wire-like aerial roots. The leaves extend in all directions from the top of the stem, with leaf stalks about 40 to 50 cm long. The leaf blade is bright and glossy, ovate-cordate, up to 60 cm long and 40 cm wide, but generally potted ones are only about half that size, with the whole leaf deeply pinnatifid and leathery. The leaves of seedling plants in the juvenile stage are relatively thin and triangular; as the plant grows, the leaves gradually become larger, and the pinnate incisions become more numerous and deeper. The tree philodendron likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment, has no strict requirements for light, is not cold-tolerant, and is tolerant of shade. It can be pot-grown anywhere indoors where the light is not too weak. It likes fertile, loose, well-drained, slightly acidic soil, and the winter temperature should not be lower than 5°C. It is commonly propagated by cuttings. The best time is from May to September. Cut a robust stem with 2-3 nodes and insert it directly into sphagnum moss or coarse sand, keep it moist, and it can take root in about 20 days. During the growing season, keep the potting soil moist; especially in summer it must not lack water, and frequently spray water on the leaf surface, fertilizing once a month. The plant grows rapidly and needs repotting every spring. In winter it grows slowly, so fertilization should be stopped and the amount of water reduced. For home cultivation, it should be renewed every 3-4 years. Leaf spot disease and scale insect damage are common. For leaf spot disease, spray with a 1000 times dilution of 50% carbendazim for control; for scale insects, spray with a 1000 times dilution of 50% for killing. The tree philodendron has a peculiar leaf form and is very shade-tolerant. It is suitable for indoor hall display, and is especially suitable for decorating music teahouses and hotel rest rooms. A species in the same genus is Philodendron imbe.

Jade plant, also called jade tree, sedum tree and so on, is a plant of the Crassulaceae family, genus Crassula.

It is native to South Africa and is now cultivated in various places. It is an evergreen small shrub. The stem is cylindrical, grayish green, with nodes. The leaves are opposite, flat, fleshy, elliptical, with entire margins, slightly pointed tips, and a rounded base that clasps the stem. The flowers are red. It likes warmth and dryness, and prefers ample sunlight and ventilation. It likes loose sandy potting soil. Avoid soil that is too wet. Propagation is mainly by cuttings. Soft branches or leaves can be used for cuttings. Before inserting, the cuttings need to be dried in the shade. They can be inserted in spring or autumn into moist yellow sand or perlite.

The cultivation and management of the jade plant are simple and extensive, but to achieve a full, robust plant form and have it bloom all over the tree as scheduled, there is indeed some work to be done. First, the jade plant grows relatively fast, and it needs repotting every spring; add fertile soil and place it in a sunny spot for care. Apply a dilute fertilizer solution once every 10 days to half a month, and water once every 2 to 3 days, following the principle of watering when dry and withholding when wet. In the heat of midsummer, the jade plant is in a semi-dormant state and is afraid that strong light will scorch its leaves, so shade care should be done at this time. Stop fertilizing in summer, pay attention to ventilation, and prevent the leaves from turning yellow and falling off. If there is continuous heavy rain, avoid letting torrential rain wash over it, so as to prevent water accumulating at the roots and causing root rot and death. From August to October, as autumn arrives and it turns cooler, the jade plant begins to resume growth, so light should be strengthened again and the shading equipment removed; at this time, the principles of fertilizing and watering are the same as in spring. Before Frost's Descent, move it into a greenhouse and place it in a sunny spot indoors, stop fertilizing, and be restrained with watering, basically watering once every half month, with the amount of water being one half of that in summer. The jade plant is not cold-tolerant in winter, and the temperature should be kept above 7°C. Prune and shape it once a year, carried out when repotting in spring or when moving it into the greenhouse in late autumn, so that the plant form remains simple and elegant all year round.

The jade plant has relatively few pests and diseases. Sometimes it may suffer from anthracnose and leaf spot disease, and can be sprayed with a 1000 times dilution of 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder. If indoor ventilation is poor, the stems and leaves are easily harmed by scale insects. When pest damage is found, immediately wash and brush it off by hand; when the damage is severe, spray with a 1000 times dilution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate for control.

In the leaves of the jade plant there is euphol; when the human body comes into contact with the sap flowing from the leaves, it can cause skin redness, swelling and pain, and if it splashes into the eyes it can also lead to blindness.

Although the jade plant is not striking in appearance, because this succulent plant has a robust constitution, is drought-tolerant, easy to cultivate, and has full branches and leaves, with leaves as green as jade all year round, and because the swollen stem nodes on its stem have the posture of ancient tree stumps, potted jade plants are now relatively commonly seen on the balconies of urban and rural residences in the Jiangnan region.

Although the jade plant is easy to propagate, easy to plant and easy to manage, it is still common to see jade plants on some residents' balconies standing gracefully in spring, summer and autumn, only to become withered and discolored once winter passes, or even become a "plucked chicken." This is mainly because growers only see the easy-to-cultivate side of the jade plant and ignore its fragile side. After severe cold sets in, they still place it on an open balcony and let it suffer the invasion of cold wind and freezing, causing the jade plant to suffer cold damage. After cold damage, the fleshy leaves and tender stems of the jade plant begin to show wounds as if they had been scalded by boiling water, then gradually soften, shrivel, and finally fall off; in severe cases, only the bare main stem remains.

Therefore, doing a good job of overwintering balcony-potted jade plants is very important, and the following key aspects should be grasped:

1. Move the pot indoors in time. After winter begins, move the jade plant to an indoor place where 7°C to 10°C can be maintained for warmth. On relatively warm days, at noon the jade plant can be moved to the balcony to bask in the sun, and at night it should still be moved back indoors.

2. Control the dryness and moisture of the potting soil. In winter, the potting soil should be mainly slightly dry, and at the proper time spray a fine mist on the leaf surface to supplement water. Under normal circumstances, there is no need to water the potting soil directly.

3. Move it into a warm shed for warmth. If conditions permit, the pot can be moved into a warm shed; if conditions do not permit, a plastic film cover can also be used, but attention must be paid to the humidity inside the cover. When excessive moisture is found, promptly remove the cover for ventilation to prevent leaf rot.

4. If, due to earlier mistakes in cold protection measures, the jade plant has already suffered cold damage, do not easily discard the plant. As long as the frozen leaves and tender branches are removed and the plump main stem is preserved, and appropriate fertilizer is applied the following spring, new branches and new leaves can still sprout from the main stem. Generally, after 1 to 2 years of cultivation, it can again develop into a perfect jade plant.

Dracaena fragrans

Latin name: Dracaena

The leaves of Dracaena fragrans are broadly linear, dark green, sessile, with slightly wavy leaf margins. The leaves can be up to 80 cm long. It is suitable for high-temperature, high-humidity environments. Both ample light and shade are acceptable. A dormancy temperature of 13°C is relatively suitable, and it must not be lower than 5°C. It is evergreen in all four seasons, highly adaptable, simple to manage, slow-growing and long-lived. It is an excellent foliage plant for indoors and outdoors, especially indoors

The care method for Dracaena fragrans is the same as for the dragon tree (Dracaena draco).

Money tree

A foliage plant of the Araceae family, genus Zamioculcas, native to tropical Africa. It is an evergreen perennial with underground tubers. There is no main stem above ground; adventitious buds sprout from the tubers to form large compound leaves. The leaflets are fleshy with short petiolules, firm and deep green, with a bright luster, and have high ornamental value. It is suitable for growing under different light intensities and has strong shade tolerance, earning it the title "king of shade tolerance." It is a newly introduced high-grade indoor ornamental plant. The money tree has large tubers, which sprout numerous buds and form many small tubers. The compound leaves have a lifespan of more than 2-3 years and are constantly renewed by new leaves. Money tree seedlings do not grow quickly, and can be grown for appreciation in small or medium pots, and are also suitable for large combined plantings.

Ecological habits

The money tree is native to the tropical (grassland) climate zone of eastern Africa with relatively low rainfall. It likes a warm, hot, slightly dry, semi-shaded environment with small annual average temperature variation. It is relatively drought-tolerant, but afraid of cold, and avoids strong light exposure. It fears heavy, sticky soil and water accumulation in the potting soil. If the potting soil is poorly aerated, it easily causes its tubers to rot. It requires loose, fertile, well-drained soil rich in organic matter, acidic to slightly acidic. It has strong sprouting ability; after cutting off the thick compound leaves, new leaves quickly emerge from the top of the tuber.

Propagation techniques

Division: In April, when the outdoor temperature reaches above 18°C, take the large money tree plant out of the pot, shake off most of the old soil, pull it apart from the weak connection points of the tubers, apply sulfur powder or plant ash to the wounds, and pot and plant them separately. Note that when planting, do not bury them too deep; burying the top of the tuber 1.5 to 2 cm below the soil surface is sufficient. In addition, based on the characteristic that money tree tubers have latent buds, a large single tuber can be cut into small pieces with 2 to 3 latent buds; after the wounds have dried, first bury and plant them in slightly moist fine sand, and after the cut small tubers grow into independent plants, pot and plant them.

Cuttings: The cuttings can be a single small leaf, a section of leaf rachis with 2 leaves attached, or a separate section of leaf rachis. From the perspective of rooting effect, cuttings with a leaf rachis and leaves have a faster rooting speed and a higher sprouting rate (sprouting rate is higher), and more easily form larger tubers. Insert a single leaf into a mixed substrate of river sand and vermiculite, and after 10 to 14 days, a small rooted bulbous stem can form at the leaf base. After 2 to 3 months of cultivation, it can grow into a small plant, but under normal circumstances the seedling survival rate is not high. If a leaf rachis or a leaf rachis with leaves is used as the cutting, the substrate can be ordinary fine sand, or a substrate prepared by mixing peat soil, perlite and river sand in a ratio of 3:1:1. The insertion depth of the cutting is 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length, leaving only the leaves outside the substrate. After spraying thoroughly with water, place it in a shaded place, maintain an ambient temperature of 25°C to 27°C, and depending on the dryness and moisture of the substrate, spray the leaf surface 1 to 2 times a day, keeping the substrate slightly moist; it must not be overly moist, otherwise the cutting will rot and cause cutting failure. When the cutting has formed a certain root system, the middle of the root gradually swells to form a small bulbous tuber, and the tuber gradually enlarges. Some relatively tender cutting leaves, after being potted, may wither and die due to high temperature or poor water management, but the tuber can survive; old mature leaves and cuttings with a whole leaf stalk can also remain green and vigorous. A small number of tubers can sprout and grow new leaves in the same year, but the growth vigor is weak and growth is slow; the next year the tuber will grow stout new shoots and grow normally.

Cultivation and management

Temperature: The optimum growth temperature is 20 to 32°C. Whether potted or field-planted, it requires small annual average temperature variation. For productive cultivation, it is best to carry it out in a temperature-controlled greenhouse. Every summer, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, the plant grows poorly, and measures such as adding black netting for shading and spraying water on the surrounding environment should be used to lower the temperature, creating for it a suitable environment with an appropriate spatial temperature and relatively dry air. In winter, it is best to maintain a greenhouse temperature above 10°C. If the room temperature is below 5°C, it easily causes the plant to suffer cold damage and then seriously endangers its survival. In late autumn and early winter, when the temperature drops below 8°C, promptly move it to a brightly lit indoor place. During the entire overwintering period, the temperature should be kept between 8°C and 10°C, which is relatively safe and reliable.

Light: The money tree likes light and also has strong shade tolerance, so a environment with relatively good sunlight but also a certain degree of shade should be created for it. It avoids direct strong light, and in particular should avoid the blazing sun exposure after long rain and first clearing in late spring and early summer, and the 5 to 6 hours of unobstructed strong light baking around noon in summer, otherwise the newly sprouted tender leaves are very easily scorched. In productive cultivation, from late spring to mid-autumn, it should be placed under a shade frame with 50 to 70% shading, but it must not be overly dark, otherwise the newly sprouted tender leaves will become slender, the leaf color will turn yellow and lack spirit, and the spacing between leaflets will be sparse, thereby affecting the compact beauty of the plant. For potted plants moved into a greenhouse in winter, supplemental lighting should be given. Keep the potting soil on the dry side, and the plant can remain disease-free all year. In addition, the newly sprouted pinnate compound leaves do not show obvious phototropism, and the plant shape remains good.

Water: To care well for a potted money tree, efforts should be made to create for it an environment that is both moist and on the dry side. In productive cultivation, for plants placed in a greenhouse, when the room temperature reaches above 33°C, spray the plant with water once a day. Because this plant has strong drought tolerance, it is better to keep the potting soil slightly moist and on the dry side, but occasionally applying excessive water and fertilizer will not cause root rot. In winter, pay attention to spraying water on the leaf surface and the surrounding environment, so that the relative air humidity reaches above 50%. After mid-autumn, reduce watering, or use spraying instead of watering, so that the newly sprouted tender leaves can safely pass the winter. In addition, in winter special attention should be paid to the fact that the potting soil must not be overly moist; it is better to keep it on the dry side, otherwise under low-temperature conditions, overly wet potting soil more easily causes the plant's root system to rot, or even the death of the whole plant

Soil: Because of the special climatic conditions of the money tree's place of origin, it has developed strong drought resistance, so the basic requirement for the cultivation substrate is good permeability. The basic requirement for the cultivation substrate is good permeability. The cultivation substrate is mostly a mixture of peat, coarse sand or washed coal cinders and a small amount of garden soil, with its pH adjusted to between 6 and 6.5, in a slightly acidic state. Because its tubers are large, its root system is well developed, and its pinnate compound leaves are relatively long, during the growing season its growth should be observed in a timely manner to decide whether to repot and change the soil. Always keep the cultivation substrate well aerated, so as to create for it a root environment with good air and water permeability. In the plum rain season, inspect frequently; when water accumulation in the pot is found, promptly repot and change the soil.

Fertilizer: The money tree relatively likes fertilizer. In addition to adding an appropriate amount of decomposed cake fertilizer or multi-element slow-release compound fertilizer to the cultivation substrate, during the growing season apply 2 to 3 times a month a mixed solution of 02.% urea plus 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate, or apply a balanced fertilizer 20-10-20 (20-20-20) at a concentration of 200 to 250 ppm combined with calcium nitrate. After mid-autumn, in order to enable it to pass the winter safely, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and apply 2 to 3 consecutive topdressings of 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, to promote the hardening and filling out of its young leaf rachises and newly sprouted leaves. After the temperature drops below 15°C, stop all forms of topdressing, so as to avoid fertilizer damage to the roots under low-temperature conditions.

Pest and disease control

Cold damage: When the winter temperature drops below 5°C, combined with moist potting soil, it easily causes the plant's tender leaves to fall over due to cold damage, and in severe cases causes the tubers to rot, making it very difficult to restore vitality.

Control methods: In productive cultivation, during the overwintering period the greenhouse temperature should be maintained not lower than 10°C, and the potting soil should be kept in a slightly dry state.

Scorching: In the hot summer, or in clear weather after long rain and first clearing, or for potted plants that have been placed indoors for a long time and have just been moved outdoors for restorative care, direct exposure to sunlight very easily causes their plump tender leaves to be scorched, causing part of the leaf to lose green and turn white, or the entire leaf to be scorched, with the necrotic part later turning brown and black.

Brown spot disease: This disease mostly occurs on the leaves. The spots are nearly circular, gray-brown to yellow-brown, with a slightly darker edge. This disease easily occurs under conditions of high temperature and high humidity and poor ventilation. Control methods: when a small number of diseased leaves are found, promptly remove and destroy them. In the early stage of the disease, use a 600 times dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder or a 500 times dilution of 40% chlorothalonil suspension, spraying the leaves once every 10 days, for 3 to 4 consecutive times, with relatively good control effect.

Control methods: After summer begins, promptly move the plant to a semi-shaded environment. In late spring and early summer, after long rain and first clearing, promptly provide shading for potted plants.

Scale insects: In an environment with poor ventilation and inadequate light, the leaves of the money tree are easily harmed by the sucking damage of scale insects.

Control methods: In productive cultivation, during the peak hatching period of the nymphs, spray a 1000 times dilution of 20% buprofezin wettable powder, with good insecticidal effect.

Happy tree

Generally refers to the "Radermachera" of the Bignoniaceae family, genus Radermachera.

Radermachera sinica, also called chili tree and bone-setting umbrella, is a deciduous tree of the Bignoniaceae family, genus Radermachera, native to southern China. Judging from the collected pictures, the "happy tree" mainly refers to Radermachera sinica, whose scientific name is Radermachera sinica. The tender branches have mucilage; the leaves are 1- to 3-pinnately compound; the leaflets are entire and stalked; the bark is light gray and deeply longitudinally fissured. The capsule is elongated, leathery, 85 cm long and about 1 cm in diameter. It is mainly distributed in Taiwan, China, Guangdong, Hainan, Guangxi, Guizhou, Yunnan and other places, and is also distributed in Bhutan. Because its leaves are verdant and smooth with a metallic luster, and it likes light while also being extremely shade-tolerant, potted young trees are a high-grade foliage plant.

Radermachera sinica likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment and can be propagated by cuttings, sowing, layering and other methods. For cultivation, sandy loam is best; it can take full sun or semi-shade. Its optimum growth temperature is 18°C to 28°C. It is suitable to carry out a pruning and shaping before sprouting in spring. During indoor display, in addition to keeping the potting soil moist, frequently spray water on the leaf surface, and place it in a brightly lit spot.

It should be specially pointed out that in winter, the greenhouse temperature should be kept not lower than 8°C, otherwise cold damage easily occurs, or even the death of the whole plant; control watering, following the principle of not watering until the surface soil is dry. If the room is too dry, spray water on the plant and the surrounding environment; do not apply fertilizer.

False aralia

The false aralia is an evergreen small tree or shrub of the Araliaceae family, genus Plerandra. It can reach 3 m in height. The leaves are alternate; the palmately compound leaves have 7-11 leaflets, shaped like slender fingers, with coarsely serrate leaf margins, borne radially and arranged in an alternating pattern. The leaf surface is leathery, dark green, with a copper-colored metallic luster on the leaves. When it grows to more than 2 m, the fine leaves will turn into broad leaves; this is its special characteristic. It is suitable for arrangement in relatively spacious, brighter places such as conference halls and dining rooms, and can also be used as decoration for the entrance halls of hotels and large buildings, full of southern charm. Regarding the specific measures for cultivation and management, they are described separately as follows:

1. It likes humus-rich loam, best with a potting soil made by mixing leaf mold, garden soil and river sand. From April to August, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once every half month.

2. It likes brightness and avoids exposure to the sun. Its suitable growth temperature is about 20-28°C. When air humidity is high, it grows more robustly. In summer, if outdoors, it must be shaded 50%. Indoor temperature is generally kept at 20°C to 30°C. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C; if below 8°C, it is easily subject to cold damage.

3. It requires moist potting soil and avoids dryness, and also avoids waterlogging. If too dry, the leaf tips easily wither. Frequently spray the leaf surface and around the plant to maintain air humidity. In winter, watering should be reduced as much as possible; cold and damp easily cause leaf drop.

4. For plants that grow too weakly and slenderly, heavy pruning can be carried out when new leaves sprout, leaving about 10 cm at the base. If the upper branches are dry and withered, heavy pruning is also appropriate, to promote the growth of branches and leaves.

5. It is mostly propagated by cuttings. Every year from May to June, cut off one-year-old woody branches and insert them for cuttings in a 20°C environment; they can take root and survive in more than 30 days. Sowing propagation can also be used, but seeds are not easy to obtain and must be kept fresh.

6. For potted plants, repot and change the soil once every 2-3 years, and after changing the soil, the branches should be pruned. After many years of planting, if the plant ages and its vitality declines, heavy pruning should be carried out in spring, and sufficient fertilizer should then be given to promote the sprouting of new branches and leaves, making the tree form more beautiful.

Monstera

Monstera, also called Penglai banana and wire orchid, is an evergreen large climber of the Araceae family, genus Monstera.

Origin and habits: Native to Mexico and Central America. It likes warmth, shade and moisture, avoids direct sunlight, and requires fertile, well-drained soil.

Morphological characteristics: The vines of Monstera can reach more than 10 meters. The stem is stout; the aerial roots can reach 1 to 2 meters, grow horizontally, are slender-columnar and brown. The leaves are heart-shaped and poreless when young; after growing up they are pinnately deeply lobed, with perforations between the veins, leathery, and drooping.

Propagation techniques: Monstera is propagated by layering and cuttings. Layering is carried out from May to August, and after about 3 months it can be cut away from the mother plant. Cuttings are carried out from April to May. Cut the scion from the tip of a stem node, with each segment bearing 2 to 3 stem nodes, remove the aerial roots, and insert it with leaves or without leaves into a sand bed, maintaining a certain temperature and humidity; after rooting, move it into a pot.

Management techniques: For potted Monstera, leaf mold is best. During the growing period, water must be sufficient. When potting and repotting, leave a 5 to 6 cm deep rim to facilitate more watering. Always keep the potting soil moist, watering once every 2 to 3 days; in dry weather, also spray water on the leaf surface to keep the air humid, following the watering principle of keeping it wet rather than dry, so as to favor the growth of branches and leaves and keep the leaves bright. In autumn and winter, gradually reduce the amount of watering. Excessive watering causes root rot, but the air should still be kept relatively humid; spray water on the leaf surface every 7 to 10 days to keep the plant and leaves fresh and evergreen. Monstera relatively likes fertilizer. To make it grow vigorously, apply dilute liquid fertilizer twice a month from April to September. During the growing season, pay attention to shading; semi-shade is best. Avoid direct strong light, and especially in midsummer it must not be placed in direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched and burned, affecting ornamental value.

For large pot cultivation, use 1 wooden stick 1.3 to 1.5 meters long, insert it into the pot, and plant the Monstera, first to prevent lodging, and second so that it grows luxuriantly attached to the stake. Or cut the overly tall stem for propagation, letting the mother plant sprout new stems and new leaves again. In winter it needs to be placed indoors above 10°C, but at least keep the temperature above 5°C, otherwise the leaves will be frost-scorched, and at the same time the potting soil should be on the dry side. During the growing period, Monstera often suffers from brown spot disease and anthracnose, and can be promptly sprayed with a 1000 times dilution of 50% thiophanate-methyl and 75% chlorothalonil, or a 800 to 1000 times dilution of 50% carbendazim for control. In summer and winter when ventilation is poor, scale insects and noctuid larvae often occur on the back of the stem, sucking sap and eating tender leaves; they can be caught or brushed off by hand, and it is best to spray with a 1500 times dilution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate, or a 2000 times dilution of 40% isocarbophos emulsifiable concentrate, or a 1500 times dilution of 40% profenofos emulsifiable concentrate for killing

Monstera is a shade-tolerant foliage plant. Generally speaking, it can be kept indoors for a long time, but during the growing period it is best placed in a ventilated spot near a window indoors, to receive outdoor air and light. In the peak growing seasons of summer and autumn, if ventilation is poor, its growth will be affected; the newly grown leaves will be relatively thin, pale and lusterless, reducing its ornamental value.

Keeping Monstera at home has a certain air-purifying effect. It is commonly planted in small or medium pots and placed in indoor living rooms, bedrooms and studies; it can also be grown in large pots and placed in hotels, restaurants, halls and indoors, or by garden ponds and under large trees, with a rather tropical style. The leaves can also be used as cut-flower foliage material. Monstera has been relatively widely introduced and cultivated in our country. The beautiful, peculiar and varied Monstera is a famous indoor potted foliage plant, and is much loved. Monstera is famous for its shade tolerance and is suitable for display and embellishment in indoor living rooms and corridors. In the south, it is mostly planted scattered in courtyards, beside park ponds, streams and ditches, beside rocks and in rock crevices. The holes and incisions on the Monstera leaves, some empty and some solid, are novel and interesting, and the aerial roots hanging at the mouth of the pot are simple and elegant.

Guzmania

Also called star bromeliad. A perennial epiphytic herbaceous plant. Potted plants are about 30 cm tall, and the crown width can reach 80 cm. The leaves are arranged in a somewhat loose rosette. The flower scape usually rises more than 20 cm above the leaf cluster; the flower scape, bracts and several leaves at the base of the flower scape are all red, very brilliant; among the bracts there are small yellow flowers; the flowering period is spring; although the true flowers open for a relatively short time, the colorful flower scape and bracts remain for a very long time, and the ornamental period can be about 2 months. It is suitable for cultivation under bright scattered light indoors, and can be placed by a bright window for year-round appreciation. If the light is too dark, it is not easy to flower. There are "Red Star" Guzmania, "Torch" Guzmania, and "Dennis" Guzmania.

Temperature: The normal growth temperature is above 20°C during the day and above 15°C at night; when forcing flowers, the temperature is 25-30°C; the minimum overwintering temperature is above 10°C.

Light: It likes bright light. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, with about 50% shading; no shading in winter.

Water: Always keep water in the leaf tube, replacing it once every 2 weeks; water when the surface of the potting soil dries 1 cm; irrigate with soft water or rainwater.

Air humidity: Frequently spray water on the leaf surface and around the plant; foliar feeding can be done by spraying.

Repotting: After flowering, if division propagation is not carried out, repot when the clump grows very dense.

Propagation: When the tillers at the base grow to about 10 cm or more in height, cut them off from the base, dry the wounds slightly, and pot them in peat soil without fertilizer. Keep slightly moist, and they can take root in about a month.

Green stem Chamaedorea

[Aliases] Hawaiian palm, Chamaedorea seifrizii, bamboo-stemmed parlour palm

[Family and genus] Ceroxyloideae, genus Chamaedorea

[Place of origin] Tropical regions such as Mexico and Guatemala

[Growth habits] It likes high temperature and high humidity, is shade-tolerant, and fears direct sunlight. It can tolerate short-term low temperatures of 1-2 degrees

[Soil] For potting, use loose, well-aerated, well-permeable sandy loam rich in humus

[Temperature and environment] This species likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment. Its optimum growth temperature is 20-30 degrees. In winter, keeping the temperature above 10 degrees allows normal growth, and it can also tolerate short-term low temperatures of 0 degrees. It has strong shade tolerance and can grow for a relatively long time in an indoor environment with relatively dim light. However, bright scattered light favors growth. Avoid direct strong light, otherwise the leaf color becomes lighter or turns yellow

[Watering and fertilizing] During the growing period, always keep the potting soil moist. When the air is dry, frequently spray water on the leaf surface to increase the air humidity of the environment, which favors plant growth and can keep the leaf surface deep green and glossy; in late autumn and winter, appropriately reduce the amount of watering, keeping the potting soil moist, to enhance the plant's ability to resist cold and overwinter. During the growing season from March to October, apply liquid fertilizer or granular compound fertilizer once every 1-2 weeks, to promote leaf growth and a deep green leaf color

[Pest and disease control] Under conditions of high temperature and high humidity, this species may suffer from brown spot disease and downy mildew, and can be sprayed with a 1000 times dilution of carbendazim or thiophanate-methyl for control

[Economic value] This species has stems like emerald bamboo, dense branches and leaves, and a deep green, glossy leaf color; its pinnae are elegant, giving people a sense of uprightness, refinement, lightness and gracefulness, and delicate beauty. Because of its extremely strong shade tolerance, it is very suitable for courtyard landscaping and indoor potted appreciation

Green ingot

Original name: Moreton Bay chestnut

Other names: Australian chestnut, green ingot, happy nut

Scientific name: Castanospermum australe

Origin of the name: It is called green ingot because its seeds resemble the shape of a sycee, so this name was chosen to seek good fortune.

Distribution: Native to Australia

Family and genus: One opinion: Fabaceae (Papilionaceae); another opinion: Castanospermum in the Fabaceae family

Morphology: It is a medium-sized tree with odd-pinnate compound leaves and alternate leaflets; the leaf shape is lanceolate to oblong, about 8-12 cm long, entire, and leathery. The pod can reach 20 cm long, and the seed (that is, the "green ingot") is oval, as large as a chicken egg, and can be roasted for eating.

Uses: Young plants of the black bean tree can be grown as small potted plants for indoor use; mature plants can grow to more than 12 m and are suitable as ornamental garden plants or street trees.

Light: Young plants are shade-tolerant, with about 50-70% sunlight; mature plants need sufficient sunlight

Management: It likes high temperatures, and the most suitable growing temperature is 22-30 degrees.

The ornamental focus of black bean tree seedlings is the swollen basal seed ball and the sprouts that grow from it, so it must be kept clean and glossy; when watering daily, be careful not to splash muddy water, and keep the surface in the pot level.

Water: Suitable for planting in loose, fertile loam or sandy loam, and drainage must be good. Avoid long-term moisture in winter.

Fertilizing: Fertilize once every 2-3 months during the growing season

Propagation: Propagated by sowing, most suitable in spring and autumn

Cyclamen

Cyclamen: Also known as rabbit ear flower, radish begonia, etc., scientific name Cyclamen Persicum, is a perennial herbaceous plant in the genus Cyclamen of the Primulaceae family, with a peculiar flower shape. The leaves grow from the top of the tuber, are heart-shaped, ovate, or kidney-shaped, with fine serrations on the leaf margin; the leaf surface is green with white or gray mottling, the leaf back is green or purple, and the petiole is relatively long, reddish brown, and fleshy. Flowers are solitary at the top of the flower stem, nodding, with petals rolled upward, just like rabbit ears; flowers come in white, pink, rose red, bright red, purple red, snow blue, and other colors, often with dark red spots at the base; petal edges are varied, including entire, notched, wrinkled, and wavy forms.

Cyclamen is native to southern Europe, the Mediterranean coast, and other places. It likes a warm, humid, cool, and softly lit environment. The suitable growing temperature is 15°C-20°C; it is not cold-tolerant and fears high temperatures and strong sun. It is suitable for well-drained, humus-rich, slightly acidic sandy loam.

Cyclamen is a light-loving flower, and winter and spring are also periods of vigorous flower growth and blooming. To make flower buds abundant, give sufficient sunlight during the bud stage, place it in a sunny spot indoors, and apply phosphate fertilizer once every 1 week, preferably by watering with a 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate compound fertilizer solution (containing zinc, boron, molybdenum, manganese, magnesium, copper, iron, sulfur, and other medium and trace elements), about 150 ml per pot. Usually water once every one or two days to keep the potting soil moist; never water heavily, and water only when the potting soil is dry. But be sure not to let the potting soil become too dry, as excessive dryness will damage root hairs and cause the upper part of the plant to wilt, and even heavy watering afterward will be difficult to restore. When watering, the water temperature should be close to room temperature.

Do not apply nitrogen fertilizer during the flowering period, otherwise it will cause excessive growth of branches and leaves and shorten the life of the flowers. If the leaves are too dense, they can be thinned appropriately to concentrate nutrients and produce more flowers. When removing leaves or spent flowers, to prevent infection by soft rot, immediately spray once with a 1000-fold “carbendazim” solution.

When cyclamen begins to bloom and continues to form flower buds, the room temperature should be kept at 15°C to 18°C, and the minimum should not be lower than 10°C. If the temperature is too high, the flowering period will be shortened; above 28°C, the leaves turn yellow. Never place the flowerpot on a radiator.

Umbrella tree

Umbrella tree, also known as Queensland umbrella tree, Queensland shade tree, Australian ivy tree, commonly called money tree, is a woody foliage plant in the genus Schefflera of the Araliaceae family.

The umbrella tree is a shrub with upright stems and few branches; young stems are green and gradually become woody; the bark is brown and smooth. The leaves are palmately compound, and the number of leaflets varies greatly with growth: 3-5 when young, 9-12 when grown, and up to 16. The leaflets are oblong, with a blunt apex and a short abrupt tip, and a blunt base; the leaf margin is wavy and leathery; when young they are densely covered with stellate short pubescence, and when slightly larger they are clean and hairless; the leaves are 15-25 cm long and 5-10 cm wide, the leaf surface is deep green and glossy, the leaf back is light green, and the petiole is reddish brown. Umbellate inflorescences, terminal small flowers, white, flowering in spring, but potted plants rarely bloom.

The umbrella tree is native to Australia and some small islands in the Pacific, and is also distributed in the tropical regions of southern China. It is suitable for warm, humid, and well-ventilated environments; it likes sun and is also shade-tolerant, and grows well in loose, fertile, well-drained soil.

The umbrella tree can be propagated by sowing and cuttings. When sowing, it is best to sow the seeds immediately after collection, as this gives a high germination rate. Cuttings can be taken in spring, summer, and autumn, and generally cutting is combined with shaping; cut branches from a plant with an irregular shape at 10-15 cm above the pot soil surface to let the mother stem sprout several branches and cultivate a good tree shape. Cut the removed semi-lignified branches into stem segments 8-10 cm long with 2-3 nodes, and insert them into a cutting bed made of river sand or perlite, maintaining a certain substrate humidity and air humidity, and paying attention to shading. Generally, roots can form in about one month. For thick, large branches with a high degree of lignification, air layering can also be used.

For potted umbrella trees, a mixture of garden soil and leaf mold can be used as the substrate. March to October is its vigorous growth period, with a relatively large growth amount. Generally, fertilize once a month, keep the soil moist, ensure sufficient water, and frequently spray the leaves to avoid dry air and leaf chlorosis and yellowing. In summer, avoid direct sunlight and pay attention to appropriate shading, generally 30-40% shading, to avoid loss of gloss, scorching, or yellowing of leaves caused by strong sun exposure. Indoor display should be placed in a spot with some diffused light, and attention should be paid to ventilation. In late autumn and winter, reduce watering and control fertilizing; in late autumn, foliar fertilization can be applied by spraying 0.3-0.5% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and other phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to promote branch and leaf maturation and improve cold resistance in winter. Under conditions of high temperature and high humidity in greenhouses and indoors with poor ventilation, anthracnose or damage by scale insects and red spiders may occur, so observe carefully and control promptly.

The umbrella tree has broad, soft, drooping leaves shaped like an umbrella; its branches and leaves are layered, the plant shape is elegant, and the posture is light yet not thin, with a strong sense of layering, so in recent years it has been widely cultivated in all provinces and regions of China. The umbrella tree is shade-tolerant and convenient to manage and maintain, and can be placed indoors continuously for a long time. It is an excellent medium-to-large foliage plant suitable for decoration in hotels, meeting rooms, living rooms, corridors, and passageways, and is also a quite ideal accent plant for corners of family living rooms, studies, and bedrooms.

Periwinkle

Scientific name: Vinca major

Aliases: twining periwinkle, greater periwinkle

Family and genus: Apocynaceae, genus Vinca

Native to the Mediterranean coast, India, and tropical America. It is cultivated in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Taiwan, China. Evergreen trailing subshrub, clumping. Vegetative stems lie prostrate or flat on the ground. Flowering branches upright, 30-40 cm tall. Leaves opposite, elliptical, apex acute, leaves green and glossy; petioles on flowering branches short. The whole plant is hairless except for hairs on the leaf margin, petiole, calyx, and throat of the corolla. Flowers solitary in the leaf axils of flowering branches, corolla salverform, blue, 5-lobed. Fruits paired, upright. Flowering period April-May. The cultivated variety Variegata has slightly smaller leaves and yellow markings.

Periwinkle likes warm, humid, semi-shaded, and well-ventilated environments. It has strong adaptability and grows rapidly, with growth peaks in June-August and October each year. It is not strict about light, and grows best especially in semi-shaded environments.

Periwinkle is commonly propagated by cuttings and division. Propagation can be done in spring, summer, and autumn, and it is easy to survive. When taking cuttings, cut 3-4 nodes of semi-lignified stems as cuttings. Because root buds grow from the nodes, 1-2 nodes must be buried in river sand soil during cutting, and the soil should be pressed firm and patted level, with timely watering to retain moisture. Generally, roots and buds form in 1-2 weeks. When the plant grows to 20-30 cm, it can be transplanted. Transplanting can be done throughout the year except in severe winter. In addition, during the growing season, dense clumping plants can be divided along the rhizome for division propagation.

Periwinkle cultivation requires loose, humus-rich sandy loam, and for potting, a mixture of leaf mold, garden soil, and river sand can be used as the substrate. Multiple plants can be planted in each pot at the same time, and timely pinching can quickly form a full shape. To promote more branching, pinching can be done several times during the growing season; mounding soil at the nodes can produce more adventitious roots and promote vine growth. Because it grows fast, it should be watered sufficiently during the growing season, and liquid fertilizer should be applied 1-3 times a month to ensure rapid growth of branches and vines and a deep green, glossy leaf color. It is suitable for a brightly lit environment. But in midsummer, avoid strong direct light to prevent leaf scorch; appropriate shading is necessary, and a semi-shaded environment is best. Although periwinkle prefers warmth during growth, it is also cold-tolerant, and in winter it can tolerate low temperatures around 0°C.

Periwinkle is an excellent groundcover plant material and can be planted in large patches at forest edges or under forests. It is especially suitable for planting at building foundations and slopes, which helps conserve soil and water.

Why has the golden edge of the golden-edged spider plant disappeared? Insufficient light or too much nitrogen fertilizer and too little phosphorus fertilizer

I. When the golden-edged spider plant no longer has a golden edge, find the cause

II. Reasons why golden-edged spider plants have no golden edge and solutions

What to do when the patterns of variegated plants disappear

Appreciation and introduction of common foliage plant pictures

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