What to Do When Irises Get Pests? 2 Types of Pests and 3 Types of Diseases and How to Control Them

The iris is a plant with high ornamental value, and many people choose to grow one at home. However, problems during cultivation can lead to pests and diseases. What should you do when irises get pests, and how should pest and disease control for irises be carried out? Let's take a look below.

I. What to Do When Irises Get Pests / Chemical Treatment

As mentioned above, if the care methods are incorrect during maintenance, pests and diseases are very likely to appear. So what should you do when irises get pests? Generally, the most direct method is to use chemicals for control, choosing targeted chemicals according to the different pests and diseases.

II. Pest and Disease Control for Irises

1. Whitefly Pest

In the pest and disease control of irises, whitefly is a relatively common pest. This pest is very small and generally difficult to spot with the naked eye, so it can only be identified through certain symptoms. This pest mainly harms the stems and leaves of the plant. It gradually sucks the plant's sap, then gradually causes the plant to wither due to insufficient nutrients.

Control method: To control this pest, we can choose to use an insect chitinase inhibitor to spray the plant, generally spraying once every 7-12 days. After 1-2 times, this pest can basically be completely eliminated.

2. Aphid Pest

The aphid pest mainly harms the leaves and tender spikes of the iris. Generally, some dead spots appear on the damaged parts, so everyone can use this to confirm it. This pest gradually sucks the sap of the iris, causing the iris to wither due to insufficient nutrients.

Control method: This pest reproduces extremely quickly, so it must be controlled promptly when discovered. Generally, we can choose 50% fenitrothion emulsion at 1000 times dilution to directly spray and kill the pest.

3. Black Rot Disease

Black rot is a disease caused by fungi, mainly harming the leaves of the plant. When the disease occurs, some gray-white spots appear on the leaves, and over time they gradually spread, causing the leaves to gradually curl and dry up, and finally gradually fall off.

Control method: The best treatment period for this disease is in the early stage. We can use 80% 402 antibacterial agent emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution to spray the plant for control.

4. Root Rot Disease

Root rot, as the name suggests, mainly harms the roots of the iris, causing the roots to gradually rot. The peak period is generally from March to May each year, so special attention must be paid during this time.

Control method: Once this disease is discovered, it must be treated promptly. If it is late, it will be difficult to cure completely. Generally, we can choose 0.3% Tuzet to drench the roots for control.

5. Bud Rot Disease

Bud rot mainly harms the flower buds of the iris. In the early stage, yellowing appears. If left untreated for a long time, it will cause the flower buds to rot and die, so this disease must be treated promptly when encountered.

Control method: To control this disease, we can choose 0.2~0.3°Be lime sulfur mixture to spray the infected parts, generally spraying once every 10-15 days. After 2-3 times, it can basically be cured.

As for the question of what to do when irises get pests, I believe everyone has the answer after reading the above. In fact, the appearance of pests and diseases in plants is mainly caused by improper care. For questions in this regard, everyone can refer to the cultivation methods for irises, which contain specific care methods. That is all for the introduction to pest and disease control for irises. I hope this article can be of some help to everyone.

Cultivation Methods for Several Common Flowers

Cultivation Methods for Several Common Flowers
1. Fringed Iris
The fringed iris is a perennial herb of the genus Iris in the family Iridaceae. It is distributed in almost all provinces and regions across the country, and also in Japan.
The rhizome is relatively slender and weak, entering the soil shallowly, growing horizontally, and is yellow-brown. The leaves are sword-shaped, dark green, and glossy. The flower stalk rises above the leaves, and the flowers are numerous, arranged in a terminal, long and sparse raceme. There are 3 style branches, dark purple, enlarged into petal-like shapes, rolled back and covering the anthers. The flowering period is April to May. The common flower colors of this species are light purple or light blue. It is suitable for natural-style planting, and also for flower borders, flower beds, and as cut flower material.
Ecological habits: It prefers moist and shady places, and has strong adaptability and cold resistance. When cultivated outdoors and overwintering in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, the aboveground stems and leaves do not completely wither. It requires acidic soil and grows well in moist, fertile soil and a sunny environment.
Propagation: Mainly by division, generally once every 2 to 3 years. Division after flowering or in autumn is best, which is beneficial for full plant growth and flower bud differentiation. Dig out the rhizome and divide it, and replant each section with 1 to 2 buds. Seed propagation: germination occurs 4 to 6 weeks after sowing, and flowering can only occur 2 to 3 years after sowing.
Cultivation and pests and diseases: Before planting, sufficient base fertilizer should be applied. After planting, the rhizome should be pressed firmly. Shallow planting is suitable, and deep planting is not. In early spring, remove residual leaves, which is beneficial for new buds to sprout. During the vigorous growth period, watering should be sufficient, and fertilize 1 to 2 times a month, which can make the flowers abundant and the leaves lush. During the flowering period, keep the soil moist, but do not allow waterlogging; after flowering, apply 1 topdressing, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which is beneficial to rhizome development; after the flowers fade and the rhizome enters dormancy, keep the soil dry. Common leaf blight and bacterial soft rot are mostly caused by larvae of the eroding noctuid moth, and can be controlled by spraying 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution; during the growth period, slugs and snails are also harmful, so spray with 3% lime water in the evening.
Planting some flowers and trees around the front and back of a farmhouse not only improves the environment but also beautifies life. With clever arrangement, the courtyard will become breathtakingly beautiful.
Planting one or two osmanthus or wintersweet trees alone or in pairs in the courtyard is a traditional Chinese garden arrangement; in damp shady areas by the wall, plant shade-tolerant flowers such as iris (commonly known as fringed iris) and begonia, which will grow well without meticulous management; for potted flowers on the balcony, small aglaia and Chinese rose are more suitable; on the sunny side, sun-loving flowers such as chrysanthemums and scarlet sage can be planted, and sufficient sunlight will make them grow better; cactus and gold-edged lotus on the roof still grow well even without long-term care; where shade is needed, consider planting a few grapevines, morning glories, or Boston ivy by the window or fence; even indoors, you can place a few pots of shade-tolerant asparagus fern and orchids on the desk or tea table. In this way, the farmhouse courtyard will become colorful and full of vitality!
2. Cineraria
Cineraria is a perennial herbaceous plant of the family Asteraceae, with the whole plant densely covered in soft hairs. The leaves are in whorls of three, triangular, and resemble cucumber leaves, hence the name cineraria. Its flower colors are brilliant and rich, including blue flowers that are very rare indoors; and its flowering period is long, with about 6 months of blooming time. It is an ideal potted flower for holidays such as New Year's Day, Spring Festival, and May Day, and is a representative flower of winter and spring. However, it is not easy to cultivate cineraria potted flowers with good plant shape, beautiful leaf color, and long flowering. You must master the following key technical measures in cineraria cultivation.
Sowing time: Generally choose mid-August. Cineraria prefers a cool climate and cannot tolerate hot high temperatures. The suitable growth temperature is 15°C to 20°C. The sowing box should be placed under a shade shed or under tree shade; if sowing in beds, a shade shed must be built above the bed soil to reduce solar radiant heat.
Seedling moisture control: This is mainly done by spraying water mist to lower the temperature of the seedbed and supply water to the seedlings. The principle of spraying is that moistening is enough. The seedbed soil should not be too dry, nor should it be too wet. If too dry, it is difficult for wilted seedlings to recover. If too wet, plus the seedlings being in a high-temperature period, they are very prone to damping-off, resulting in a low seedling survival rate.
Preparation of culture soil: Cineraria prefers sandy soil rich in humus and well-drained, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 being more suitable. When preparing the culture soil for sowing, be careful to mix unpolluted leaf mold or wood ash, pure loess, and fine sand in a 3:1:1 ratio and then sieve it, and do not add any fertilizer. The culture soil prepared in this way is beneficial to seed germination and growth. Culture soil that is too sticky cannot withstand drying. Once it cracks slightly, it will break the fibrous roots of the seedlings, causing seedling death and reducing the survival rate. The culture soil after pricking out can be the same as the culture soil used for sowing, to harden the seedlings. When potting, evenly place soybean cake, bone meal, or superphosphate into the culture soil as base fertilizer, or use barnyard manure, fired soil ash, garden soil, rapeseed cake, and fine sand in a 3:2:2:1:1 ratio to prepare the culture soil, to ensure a sufficient supply of nutrients for the plant. Barnyard manure must be composted, decomposed, and then sun-dried. Rapeseed cake must be crushed, fully stirred and mixed, and then sieved before it can be used as culture soil for final planting.
Pay attention to temperature control: Cineraria prefers a cool climate, avoids cold in winter, and avoids high temperatures in summer. Therefore, in winter it should be cultivated in a greenhouse, generally maintaining above 10°C, and often keeping the room temperature around 15°C, so that it can grow well; in summer, place the sowing box under a shade shed, or open a sowing bed under the shade shed, and water before 10:00 a.m. or after 5:00 p.m., and avoid watering at noon, so that the seedlings can smoothly pass through the high-temperature period.
Pay attention to humidity control in winter: Cineraria has relatively high humidity requirements in order to grow well. How to keep humidity moderate in winter is the key to successfully cultivating cineraria. If it is too dry, the leaves of cineraria are often in a wilted state, which is not conducive to leaf growth, easily causes the leaves to turn yellow, and also easily produces red spiders and aphids. If watered too much, indoor humidity is too high, which easily causes the roots, main stems, and leaves to rot, and also easily produces aphids; if in addition the room temperature is too high and ventilation is poor, diseases are easily produced.
3. Corn Poppy
Corn poppy, also known as lichunhua and manyuanchun, is an annual or biennial herbaceous flower of the genus Papaver in the family Papaveraceae. The plant height is 30 to 90 cm. The stems are slender, and the branches are thin and weak. The leaves are alternate, with irregular pinnate divisions and serrations, and the whole plant has sparse hairs and milky sap. The flowers are solitary at the top of the branches, with long pedicels. The flower buds droop, and when the flowers open they immediately straighten. Most horticultural cultivated varieties are double-petaled. The flower colors of corn poppy are extremely rich and brilliant, including vermilion, ink purple, bright pink, snow white, and tricolor. The flowers only last 1 to 2 days before falling, but the buds are numerous and open successively. The flowering period is May to June. The capsule is spherical, the fruit ripening period is July, and the seeds are very small.
The corn poppy is native to Asia and Europe, and is also distributed in North America. It is cold-resistant and suitable for sufficient light and a cool climate in spring, and cannot tolerate severe summer heat and humidity. It is usually sown in drills in flowerbed plots in early winter. It has no strict requirements for soil, but loose, fertile sandy loam is best. The row spacing is 20 cm. After sowing, cover with plastic film, or sow in early spring when the surface just thaws. After seedlings emerge, gradually remove the plastic film. The corn poppy is a taproot flower, with fine and deep roots and few lateral roots. During the seedling stage, the root length often exceeds the plant height by about 1 time, so it cannot be transplanted. Even if transplanted reluctantly, the survival rate is very low. When drill sowing results in relatively dense seedlings, thin them out 2 to 3 times in stages, maintaining a plant spacing of 10 to 15 cm. The corn poppy does not have high water and fertilizer requirements, but it avoids heavy water and heavy fertilizer and soil waterlogging.
The corn poppy is excellent material for flower beds, flower borders, and flower strips. It can also be sown in pots in a greenhouse or cold frame in January, and leave the nursery in late April for use as a May Day holiday flower. Home flower growers can cultivate it on a south-facing enclosed balcony. In January, use a flowerpot with an inner diameter of 20 cm, fill it more than half full with loose old potting soil, press it flat, scatter 20 to 30 seeds, cover with soil just until the seeds are no longer visible, and after sowing, soak the pot to let water seep in. When seedlings emerge, thin them several times, removing the weak and keeping the strong, and finally keep 3 to 5 plants for final planting. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, gradually fill in planting soil up to the rim to prevent the slender stems from lodging. Keep sufficient light and fresh ambient air, with nighttime temperatures not lower than 5°C, and avoid drought and waterlogging. It can bloom in March, until May Day.
The corn poppy and the opium poppy belong to the same family, not only resembling each other in appearance but also sharing the same habits. The difference is only that the opium poppy has a larger plant shape and fruit and is covered all over, while the corn poppy is smaller and covered with sparse hairs. However, the corn poppy is suspected by some people of being the drug opium. In fact, although the corn poppy contains milky sap in its body, its components do not contain laudanum. Its flowers can be made into a gargle with an antitussive effect, and its milky sap has the effect of relieving pain and stopping diarrhea. In the warm spring sunshine, patches of corn poppies in courtyard green spaces compete to bloom, like clusters of red clouds and also like squares of silk handkerchiefs. When the breeze blows, both people and flowers feel as if they are floating.
4. Pocketbook Flower
Pocketbook flower is a herbaceous plant of the genus Calceolaria in the family Scrophulariaceae. The flower colors include yellow, purple, red, milky white, orange-red, dark brown, etc., and the flowers are decorated with colorful spots and markings, very lovely, and often used for indoor decorative display. It blooms from December to February of the following year, and under greenhouse cultivation the flowering period is March to April.
Pocketbook flower is native to the Mexico and Chile area. It prefers cool and humid conditions, and can grow indoors in winter at 3°C to 6°C. During the growth period, relatively high air humidity must be maintained. Pay attention to ventilation. Sufficient light is beneficial to the plant's flowering.
Ventilation and shading: Pocketbook flower prefers cool conditions, and the suitable growth temperature is around 10°C. If the stems and leaves develop luxuriantly during the growth period, and the potting soil is too wet plus hot and stuffy conditions, the stem base of the plant will rot and the leaves will rot. To lower the temperature, shading measures are often taken at noon to create a ventilated and cool environment. Especially after flowering in spring until May to June when the seeds mature, ventilation work must be done even better, and shade at noon, which is beneficial to the development and maturation of the seeds.
Watering and fertilizing: Pocketbook flower prefers a warm and humid environment, but avoids overly wet potting soil and excessive watering during flowering. Generally, water only when the potting soil is dry. If indoors in a greenhouse, frequently spraying water to increase air humidity is even better. Do not directly wash the plant when watering. If water accumulates on the leaves and buds, it easily causes rot. During the pre-flowering growth season, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 10 days (diluted 10 times). At the early flowering stage, increase the application of phosphorus-based fertilizer. When fertilizing, do not let the fertilizer water contaminate the leaves, so as to avoid rotten hearts and rotten leaves.
Propagation techniques: Pocketbook flower is generally propagated by sowing. When seeds are lacking, division can also be used. Sowing should be carried out after the high temperatures have passed and the weather turns cool, that is, from August to September, because during the high-temperature period seedlings are prone to damping-off and rot. Use leaf mold or peat soil mixed with half sand, sieve and disinfect it, then put it into a shallow pot, fill with enough water by the soaking method, and then sow. The seeds of pocketbook flower are very small, in the form of relatively coarse powder grains. When sowing, it is best to first fold thick paper into a small triangular funnel, put the seeds in it, then hold the lower part of the small funnel with the right hand, so that the seeds fall evenly into the sowing pot. Do not make it too dense, otherwise the seedlings will grow thin and weak after emergence. For covering soil, only use a fine sieve to cover with a thin layer of fine soil (it is also fine not to cover with soil). After sowing, cover the pot with glass to maintain humidity. Before emergence, place it in a cool place, keep the temperature at around 20°C, and it can emerge in about 7 to 10 days. After emergence, remove the glass, thin the seedlings, and let them gradually receive sunlight, lowering the temperature to around 15°C.
When the seedlings produce 2 true leaves, they can be transplanted. When they grow 4 to 6 true leaves, they can be potted individually. For the culture soil, mix 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part barnyard manure, 1 part sand, and 6 parts garden soil, with a pH of 6.5. From November to December, they can be potted in large pots for final planting.
5. Cockscomb
Cockscomb, also known as red cockscomb and rooster amaranth, is named because its inflorescence is twisted and folded like a cockscomb. It is an annual herbaceous plant with a plant height of 30 to 50 cm. The stem is upright, and the upper part of the stem is flat, green or red. The leaves are alternate, ovate, ovate-lanceolate, or lanceolate, gradually narrowed at the tip, entire, and petiolate. The spike is terminal, with a flat, fleshy flower axis, cockscomb-shaped, yellow, white, or red-purple, with a velvety luster. The flowering period is July to October. The utricle is ovate, circumscissile, containing 4 seeds. The seeds are black and glossy, with a thousand-grain weight of 0.85 grams. It is used for flower beds and flower borders, and can also be potted. It is also relatively good as a cut flower, and the flower arrangement time can reach more than 10 days.
There are four types of cockscomb, namely hen-and-chickens cockscomb, common cockscomb, garden velvet cockscomb, and plume cockscomb. In addition, there are many varieties. Divided by plant height, there are dwarf types (20 to 30 cm), medium-stem types (40 to 60 cm), and tall-stem types (higher than 60 cm); divided by flowering period, there are early-flowering and late-flowering differences. The colors range from extremely light yellow (nearly white) to golden yellow and brown yellow, and from jade red, rose red, orange red to purple red, and there are also compound colors such as sprinkled gold and Erqiao, which are mixed with yellow and red lines.
Cockscomb is native to India. It prefers a hot and dry climate and fears waterlogging. It grows well in sunny, fertile sandy soil, avoids sticky soil, and grows poorly in barren, non-breathable soil, with smaller inflorescences. It can self-sow and propagate.
Propagation by sowing: Sow in the open field seedbed from March to April in spring. When sowing, it is not suitable to cover with soil. After covering with grass, water it and keep the soil moist. After germination, remove the covering grass. Transplant when there are 2 leaves. When the seedlings grow to 5 to 10 cm, plant them in the field or pot them. Do not fertilize during the seedling stage, otherwise the side branches will grow vigorously and affect the development of the main branch. After the cockscomb forms, apply thin fertilizer to promote its growth. Seeds are prone to variation, so seed selection must be carefully carried out every year when saving seeds.
The flowering period of cockscomb can be adjusted by controlling the sowing period. Generally, sowing can be carried out from March to June. Sow according to the need for flowers to meet the demand for holiday flowers.
Growth habits: It prefers a warm and dry climate, fears drought, prefers sunlight, and cannot tolerate waterlogging, but has no strict requirements for soil. It can generally be planted in ordinary soil courtyards. It is a new way to develop courtyard economy at present, and people of insight may wish to give it a try.
Propagation and cultivation: Seed propagation method. Around Qingming, choose a good plot, apply sufficient base fertilizer, plow finely and harrow evenly, level and make beds, evenly scatter the seeds on the bed surface, slightly cover the seeds, tread firmly and water thoroughly. Generally, at a temperature of 15 to 20°C, seedlings can emerge in 10 to 15 days. For summer sowing after Mangzhong, sow at a row spacing of 30 cm. When the seedlings are 6 cm tall, thin them at a plant spacing of 20 cm. The thinned seedlings can be transplanted to other fields, and after transplanting they must be watered. During the seedling stage, weeds must be removed and the soil loosened. When it is not too dry, water as little as possible. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, apply topdressing once. After the rows close, appropriately remove old leaves. When flowering and heading, if the weather is dry, water appropriately, and strictly prevent water accumulation in low-lying areas during the rainy season. After heading, the flower buds in the leaf axils of the lower part can be removed to concentrate nutrients for the growth of the top main spike.
Pest and disease control: If root rot occurs during the seedling stage, quicklime can be broadcast in the field. During the growth period, small looper caterpillars are likely to occur. Spraying dimethoate or pyrethroid pesticides on the leaves can play a control role.
Harvesting and processing: Generally around White Dew, the seeds gradually turn black and mature. The flower stalks can be cut off in time and placed in a ventilated place to dry. When drying, take them out early and bring them back before evening. Do not let them be exposed to night dew, so as to avoid deterioration and reduced medicinal efficacy. Store them in bags.
6. Garden Balsam
Garden balsam is also called nail grass, bone-penetrating grass, golden phoenix flower, and sprinkled gold flower. Its place of origin is China and India, and it can be planted in flowerpots or flower beds. Garden balsam is an annual or biennial herbaceous plant, about 25 to 35 cm tall. The flowers are white, pink, orange-red, copper-red, etc., and the flower types include single-petaled and double-petaled. It is a very beautiful plant.
The suitable temperature for garden balsam germination is 22°C to 30°C. Sowing period: March to April or September to October.
The suitable temperature for garden balsam growth is 15°C to 32°C. Flowering period: May to July, December to February.
I. Before planting:
Flower growth is closely related to various factors in the natural environment, including temperature, light, moisture, and growing medium. Temperature is the most important factor affecting flower growth. If air conditioning or heating is used indoors to regulate temperature, planting will not be affected by the seasons, but after emergence, the plant must be placed by a sunny window so that it can receive as much sufficient sunlight as possible.
II. When planting:
Good, now it is time to prepare to start sowing. Please confirm again before sowing: are the conditions required for seed germination and growth now available?
III. Planting:
1. When planting, pay special attention that at most only a thin layer of soil can cover the surface of the flower seeds, 1 to 3 times the diameter of the flower seeds (as accurate as possible; feeling is also important). If the seeds are buried too deep, it will make seed germination difficult.
2. Adjust the watering can to a mist state and spray an appropriate amount of water on it;
3. Cover the mouth of the flower pot with glass or plastic paper to reduce water evaporation;
4. Place the flower pot in a shady place away from light, and remember to open it for 15 to 20 minutes every day for ventilation;
5. Flower seeds generally germinate in about 10 to 15 days. Be patient while waiting for germination. Sometimes factors such as temperature changes will affect the seed germination time, so please wait patiently.
IV. Emergence:
1. The seeds have germinated! At this time, please wait until the first pair of leaves on the sprout unfolds symmetrically, then immediately remove the covering (glass plate, plastic paper), and place it in a sunny place, avoiding direct sunlight, paying attention to temperature changes, and do not water excessively.
2. When the first pair of cotyledons has fully unfolded and appears green, it is necessary to gradually increase the lighting time under direct sunlight.
3. When the first pair of true leaves grows, it should be placed under all-day direct sunlight, and pay attention to the dryness of the growing medium and water appropriately; when the second pair of true leaves grows, it indicates that the most difficult stage of planting has been passed. As long as temperature and moisture are controlled well, garden balsam will grow vigorously.
V. Light:
1. If the plant lacks light, leggy growth often occurs, making the plant slender, weak, and prone to lodging. The lighting time should be increased.
2. Turn the flowerpot as often as possible so that the branches and leaves of the plant can receive sunlight from all angles and grow fully.
VI. Maintenance:
1. When the seedlings grow to nearly one inch, keep the robust plants and move the rest to a new place, that is, repot them.
2. When repotting, be very careful not to damage the fibrous roots. When moving the seedling out, dig a hole of appropriate width and depth in the center of the flowerpot, let its root system fully spread out, cover with growing medium, press lightly, and then water an appropriate amount.
VII. Watering:
1. During the emergence period, the soil needs to be kept moist. After emergence, it is better to keep it somewhat dry, with the surface soil dry and the interior still moist;
2. Water in the morning as much as possible, avoiding sunlight;
3. It is best to let the water sit for 4 to 6 minutes first to dissipate the chlorine in tap water;
4. When watering, it is best to use a fine-hole pot, starting from a place far from the plant and gradually moving closer to the plant, watering more around it and less near the plant, and try not to splash it on the leaves and stems.
7. Lily
The lily is a perennial root vegetable crop. Its main edible part is the bulb. Besides being used as a vegetable, processed products are also widely used in medicine and health foods.
Ziyuan County has a long history of planting lilies, but due to long-term mixed varieties and extensive cultivation and management, the unit yield is relatively low. To obtain better economic benefits from planting lilies, great efforts must be made in cultivation.
1. Site selection: It is suitable to choose acidic sandy loam with sufficient light, deep soil layers, convenient drainage and irrigation, and a pH of 5.7 to 6.3 for cultivation. The previous crop is best as legumes or grasses. Rotation should be carried out, and continuous cropping is not suitable.
2. Selection of good varieties: There are many lily varieties, mainly Longya lily, Yixing lily, and Lanzhou lily. Ziyuan County mostly uses Longya lily. This variety has large heads, good quality, strong stress resistance, vigorous growth, and high yield. Generally, small bulbs (single fruit weight 30 to 50 g) are used for propagation. Lily bulbs easily carry diseases, so robust bulbs without sunken bottoms, disease spots, or mechanical damage must be selected as seed bulbs to ensure neat emergence and less disease. Planting in the current year can yield a harvest the following year. If the seed source is insufficient, scale propagation can also be used, but it must be planted continuously for three years before harvest. Seeds are collected in July, stored in sand for after-ripening, and sown from late August to September.
3. Land preparation and sowing: Before planting, broadcast about 100 kg of lime per mu in August, deep plow the soil two to three times, then apply 30 to 40 kg per mu of potassium sulfate ternary compound fertilizer, prepare the land and make beds. The bed surface width is about 1 m and the bed height is 20 to 30 cm, so that there is no waterlogging. Then open furrows for planting. At the bottom of the furrow, apply decomposed chopped cattle pen manure, chicken manure, fired soil ash, tung bran, and other organic fertilizers, 1200 to 1500 kg per mu, cover with a thin layer of soil, then plant. The seed bulbs must not touch the organic fertilizer. If rapeseed bran is used, the lilies turn yellow and the export grade is low; if pig manure is applied, pests are likely to occur. The cultivation density is 30 x 20 cm, the seed quantity per mu is 125 to 150 kg, and the harvest amount after one year of planting is 4 to 6 times the seed quantity.
4. Pest and disease control:
Disease control: The main diseases of lily are damping-off and root rot. Before planting, first soak the seeds in 300 times formalin for 5 minutes, then dry them and sow. After emergence, use 80% mancozeb at 1000 times, or 25% carbendazim at 1000 times, or 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 600 to 800 times, rotating once every 7 to 10 days, and spraying continuously 2 to 3 times.
Pest control: For underground pests, 50% phoxim emulsion or 50% dexon can be mixed into poisonous soil and evenly scattered into the planting furrows; for aphids, spray 10% imidacloprid wettable powder at 2000 times, once every 7 to 10 days.
5. Timely harvest: It can be harvested from July to August each year. Harvesting on a sunny day one week before the Beginning of Autumn gives the highest yield; harvesting after the stems and leaves wither in autumn is also possible, but the dry slice rate is low and the benefit is not as good as the former. When harvesting, large bulbs can be sold fresh or processed into dry slices, and small bulbs below 50 g are kept whole as seed.
8. Bleeding Heart
Bleeding heart is native to Hebei and Northeast China. It prefers a semi-shady environment with sufficient scattered light, is relatively cold-resistant, but fears severe summer heat and high temperatures and strong light exposure. Therefore, it is suitable to place it under large trees in the courtyard, under grape trellises, on the shady side of tall buildings, or on east- or north-facing balconies. During the summer dormancy period, place it in a well-ventilated shady place, away from direct light, and often sprinkle water on the nearby ground to increase air humidity and lower temperature.
Ecological habits:
Cold-resistant, avoids high temperatures, prefers a shady and humid environment and loose, fertile neutral soil. It grows poorly in sandy soil and clay. By midsummer the stems and leaves turn yellow and it enters dormancy. It enters dormancy in hot summers. It cannot tolerate drought and prefers moist, well-drained fertile sandy loam. It grows poorly in sandy soil and clay. It avoids direct sunlight. The flowering period is April to June. It sprouts relatively early in spring, and after flowering until summer the stems and leaves gradually turn yellow and it becomes dormant.
Bleeding heart propagation:
For propagation and cultivation, division, cutting, and sowing can all be used.
Bleeding heart division propagation method.
It is suitable to carry out in early spring in February after the buds begin to sprout and before new leaves grow. When dividing, dig up the entire plant, shake off the soil from the roots, then use a knife to cut off the tender rhizomes around the main rhizome together with roots, divide into 2 to 3 plants, and plant them in a prepared seedbed, covering with 2 to 3 cm of soil, watering thoroughly, and placing in a shady place. Division can also be done after the plant enters dormancy in autumn, similar to early spring division. It must be timely. If the new leaves of the old plant have already unfolded before division, the root system is easily damaged and the survival rate is low. Division can also be done during the late autumn dormancy period, but the survival rate is not high. It can only be divided once every 2 or 3 years, not every year.
The commonly used method is division. Before germination in March, dig out the underground part, remove old roots and rotten roots, separate the rhizomes naturally along the growth direction, with each piece bearing 3 to 5 buds, and replant. It can bloom in May of the same year. In spring, break off basal shoots for cuttings, and roots can develop in about 1 month. For seed propagation, seedlings must be cultivated for 3 years before flowering.
Bleeding heart cutting propagation method
Cutting medium: Choose loose, well-drained sandy loam rich in humus as the medium, with a pH between 5 and 6. Before use, it is best to disinfect it with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution.
Cutting time: Carry out from June to July each year. At this time there is more rain, and the ground temperature and air temperature are also relatively suitable, so the cutting survival rate is high.
For softwood cuttings, in June and July, after all the flowers have faded, select branches that are fully developed and have relatively plump axillary buds, cut off the inflorescence, and after 7 to 10 days cut the robust lower branches with axillary buds into sections of 2 to 3 nodes, each section about 10 to 15 cm long, keep one leaf at the upper end, and remove part of the small leaves. Insert 2 nodes into the soil, with the upper node bearing small leaves exposed above the soil surface, at a plant and row spacing of 10 cm x 10 cm.
Dip the cut end in sulfur powder or plant ash, insert it into plain soil, water it, and place it in a shady place. Frequently spray water on the cuttings, but restrict watering of the potting soil; it is enough to keep it slightly moist but not dry. Roots can form in more than a month. The following spring, pot it with soil for final planting. With good management, it can bloom in the same year. The insertion depth is 1/3 of the branch length. The cutting bed can use sandy loam or sandy soil. Do not fertilize. After cutting, water thoroughly and shade. Generally, roots can form in 30 to 40 days.
Management after cutting:
After cutting, water thoroughly once with a fine-hole watering can so that the cuttings are in close contact with the medium. Set up an arched shed on the bed surface, cover with plastic film, and cover with straw curtains to create a semi-shady environment. Control the temperature at around 25°C. When it is too high, ventilate appropriately to lower the temperature, and always keep the bed soil moist. Roots can form in about 40 days. Gradually remove the shed film and straw curtains. The following spring it can be transplanted for final planting and bloom in the same year.
Plants are divided in March to April. Cuttings are mostly taken in late March, and sowing is mostly done in autumn. Field-planted bleeding heart needs cover for insulation in winter. Potted plants are mostly divided or repotted around late March. In hot summers, place them in a semi-shady place. During the rainy season, pay attention to preventing water accumulation in the pot.
Or cut the rhizome into sections for propagation. In autumn, dig out the underground part, separate the rhizomes naturally along the segments, and plant them separately. Alternatively, cut the rhizome into sections, each with a bud eye, insert them into sand, and after rooting, plant them in pots. For seed propagation, seedlings must be cultivated for 3 years before flowering.
Bleeding heart sowing propagation method.
When the seeds mature in late June, harvest them in time. Cut off the inflorescence and dry it in the sun, winnow the seeds clean, then immediately broadcast them in the seedbed, water thoroughly, and seedlings can emerge in about 15 days. Cover in winter to protect the seedlings through the winter. The following spring, plant the robust young seedlings in the field, with a plant and row spacing of 30 to 50 cm being suitable. Seedlings from sowing need 3 years to bloom.
Home propagation is generally not used; it is only adopted by landscaping departments for mass propagation or for breeding new hybrid varieties.
Cultivation of Bleeding Heart
For ground planting, choose a site with higher terrain. Before planting, deeply dig over the seedbed soil and apply well-rotted organic fertilizer; during the growing period, topdressing can be carried out together with watering. In summer, when temperatures are high and the stems and leaves turn yellow and the plant enters dormancy, the dead branches can be pruned away. Before Frost's Descent, water thoroughly once to help protect against the cold. For pot cultivation, use a light potting mix enriched with fertilizer, pot it up, water thoroughly after planting, and place it in a sunny spot for care; during the growing period, provide ample fertilizer and water. Move it as little as possible during the flowering period, so as not to cause flowers to drop and affect its ornamental value; after flowering, if seeds are not needed, promptly cut off the spent flowers.
Management of Bleeding Heart
Bleeding heart is cold-tolerant and shade-loving, not tolerant of high temperatures. It grows well when planted in loam rich in humus, and generally should be watered once a week. During the bud formation stage, apply 1 to 2 applications of rotted fertilizer water; do not water too much, just keep it moist. During the growing period, apply once every 2 to 3 weeks with matured urine diluted 5 times with water. If sown directly in a flower bed, thin the seedlings when they have 5 leaves, with a plant spacing of 30 cm. In March of the following year, apply once more with matured urine diluted 3 times with water, and wait for it to bloom. In July, cut off the black fruits, dry them in the sun, thresh them, and collect the seeds.
Pests and Diseases of Bleeding Heart
For scale insects, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution; sometimes leaf spot disease occurs, which can be prevented and controlled by spraying with 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution.
For leaf spot disease, spray with 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution. Among insect pests, scale insects are harmful; spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution.
9. Daylily
Hemerocallis hybrida, a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Hemerocallis in the Liliaceae family, is native to China, Japan and Eurasia. It is now widely cultivated around the world and is an excellent perennial garden flower.
Hemerocallis hybrida has strong drought resistance, tolerance to high temperatures and low temperatures, and adapts to a wide temperature range; it can be planted from south to north in our country. It has strong disease resistance and wide adaptability to soil; apart from excessively acidic, excessively alkaline, excessively sandy or excessively clayey soil, it can generally be cultivated, with a pH value of 6.5 to 7.5 being best.
Propagation Methods
Dividing the daylily clumps is the most commonly used propagation method. This method is simple to perform, the plants survive easily, and growth is relatively uniform. For division, the entire mother clump can be dug out and replanted separately; or a portion of the plants can be dug out from one side of the mother clump as seedlings, while the remainder continues to grow.
Division is mostly carried out before sprouting in spring or after leaf fall in autumn. If divided and transplanted in spring, it can bolt and bloom the same year; if divided and transplanted in autumn, it can only bolt and bloom the following year. When transplanting, choose plants that are vigorous in growth, have many flower buds, are of good quality and are free of pests and diseases.
When dividing, dig out a portion of the tillers from the clump as seedlings; the dug-out portion must have roots. Cut them apart at the shortened stem, remove the old roots, rotten roots and diseased roots, retain as many fleshy roots as possible, cut them appropriately shorter (leaving about 10 cm), and then they can be planted. Planting should be done on a sunny day, digging seedlings, dividing seedlings and planting seedlings as you go, injuring the roots as little as possible, so that the plants recover quickly. Generally divide once every 2 to 3 years to ensure vigorous growth of the plants.
Sowing is a method for rapidly producing seedlings in large quantities, but because the seed germination rate is low, the seeds must first be soaked to germinate, and they can only be planted out one year after sowing. The seed collection period begins around September each year, requiring plants that are robust in growth, with plump fruits and free of pests and diseases. Sowing takes place in spring of the following year.
The seedbed should first be given sufficient base fertilizer; the bed width is 1.3 to 1.7 m and the length about 30 m, with drainage ditches dug on both sides. When sowing, open shallow furrows about 3 cm deep every 20 cm, sow the seeds evenly into the furrows, cover with a layer of fine soil, then spread a thin layer of fine sand. Before emergence, water and weed, and maintain good soil moisture; by autumn the seedlings can be lifted and planted. Each mu of seedbed uses 2.5 kg of seed and can raise 50,000 to 60,000 seedlings.
The seeds can also be soaked to promote germination and then sown in the open field to raise seedlings, with a sowing rate of 5 to 7 kg per mu, using flat-ground drilling. Open furrows at a row spacing of 30 cm, about 3 cm deep, and sow one seed every 3 to 5 cm. After the plants grow 2 to 3 leaves, apply once with dilute human and animal manure. Use a small arched shed for overwintering to protect against the cold; strengthen field management after spring begins, and transplanting can be done in August. Seeds collected from evergreen daylilies can be sown directly, or stored at room temperature and then sown.
Bud division. Flower buds refer to the small plants on the flower stems of Hemerocallis hybrida. The flower buds can be cut from the flower stems; if they are relatively large, they can be further divided before planting. After transplanting, the flower buds can take root within a week. Rooted flower buds can be used to propagate plants, increasing the number planted and ultimately improving economic returns.
Tissue culture. Plants are cultured from young leaves, filaments, flower scapes and other organs. The method is to first induce the young organs to produce callus tissue, then culture them with an appropriate medium under suitable conditions of temperature, humidity, light and air into young plantlets. The young plantlets are then temporarily planted in nutrient pots, cultured for a period into seedlings, and then planted out. However, this method has not yet been widely accepted.
In addition to the four methods introduced above, other methods can also be used to propagate Hemerocallis hybrida. Individual clonal plants can be divided into thin slices with growing points and root systems, and they can be divided again after about 6 months of planting. When dividing, these plants must not be smaller than 1/4 of the original plant. Another method is to cut the top of the flower crown, use plant growth regulators to strengthen the vitality of the cut plants, carry out in vitro culture to promote rooting, and then plant them.
Planting
Hemerocallis hybrida is mostly planted in early spring in early March before sprouting. Although Hemerocallis hybrida is not strict about soil requirements, because it can grow for many years after planting, attention should be paid to the choice of planting site. It is best to choose flat land with a low groundwater table or sloping land with good water source and irrigation conditions, with good drainage, loose soil and deep soil layers. Newly opened wasteland must have the soil fully weathered, or organic fertilizer applied to increase its organic matter content. The land must be leveled; because Hemerocallis hybrida has strong tillering ability, the plant and row spacing must be maintained at 40 to 50 cm when planting. Dig holes for planting; the holes are triangular, and 3 to 5 plants are planted. Planting should not be too deep or too shallow; if too deep, tillering is slow, and if too shallow, although tillering is fast, the plants mostly grow thin and weak. Generally, the planting hole is more than 30 cm deep, with base fertilizer applied down to 15 to 20 cm from the ground surface, and after planting, cover with soil and firm it. Use 500 to 600 kg per mu of human manure diluted with water for spot application to set the seedlings, ensuring the survival rate.
Management
Fertilization. Hemerocallis hybrida has a long flowering period and a relatively large demand for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. In addition to applying sufficient base fertilizer at planting (well-rotted cow manure or pig manure is preferable), fertilizer should also be applied according to the needs of different developmental stages. When nitrogen is sufficient, it can promote robust plant growth and enlarge the leaves. Phosphorus can promote root growth, enhance tillering ability, help the transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth, enhance bud-forming ability, and promote drought resistance, cold resistance and disease resistance, improving quality. When potassium is supplied sufficiently, the plant tissues are tough, growth is robust, disease resistance is strong, and in the middle and late stages it can make the flower scapes emerge neat and sturdy, the flower buds develop plump, and bud-forming ability increase. Therefore, topdressing is needed twice before and during the flowering period, each time mainly with quick-acting fertilizer, combined with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; nitrogen fertilizer must not be applied alone. A 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate spray can also be applied to promote larger flowers and can achieve the effect of extending the flowering period.
Irrigation. Hemerocallis hybrida has relatively strong drought resistance and does not need much water during the vegetative growth period, so irrigation should be based on the water requirements of daylily at each growth and development stage, combined with local climate, soil and water source conditions. After new seedlings are transplanted, soil water-holding capacity must be maintained at 70% to 80%, and watered promptly in drought. At the seedling stage the plants are small, and their water requirement is also small. From the beginning of reproductive growth, the water requirement gradually increases; if water is lacking at this time, growth will be affected. During the bud stage, the soil must be kept moist frequently to prevent buds from dropping due to drought, generally watering once every week. Water thoroughly and evenly, preferably in the morning and evening. In July and August there is a lot of rain, so drainage and waterlogging prevention are needed. Before winter begins, frozen water should be applied to ensure early sprouting the following year.
Weeding. After planting and during the seedling stage, timely cultivating and weeding should be carried out. At the seedling stage, cultivation should be shallow rather than deep, and as the seedlings age, cultivation should be deepened. Before the spring seedlings emerge, carry out one shallow loosening of the soil, and after emergence, shallow hoeing 3 to 4 times at appropriate times, which can achieve the dual purpose of weeding and drought prevention. Cultivating and weeding should be carried out when soil moisture is moderate, and can stop once the leaf clumps cover the ground. Promptly remove weeds in the daylily field; if weeds grow in clusters, they can very easily cause pests and diseases, affecting the growth and appearance of the daylily.
For weeding, traditional manual weeding can be used, or herbicides suitable for Hemerocallis hybrida can be used. Sethoxydim, also known as nabuqing, is a selective pre-emergence stem-and-leaf treatment agent that can control grass weeds such as barnyardgrass, wild oat, foxtail, goosegrass and bermudagrass; penoxalin, also known as pendimethalin, is a selective pre-emergence soil treatment agent that is very effective in pre-emergence control of annual narrow-leaved weeds and certain broad-leaved weeds, such as annual grass weeds including crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, shortawn foxtail and bluegrass, and broad-leaved weeds such as lambsquarters, amaranth, chickweed, galinsoga and shepherd's purse; metolachlor, also known as isopropyl metolachlor, is a selective pre-emergence dryland soil treatment agent used to control annual grass weeds such as barnyardgrass, crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail and lovegrass, and also controls some small-seeded broad-leaved weeds such as amaranth, purslane, shepherd's purse, galinsoga and chickweed, as well as rice flatsedge, but has poor control effect on perennial weeds and most broad-leaved weeds; fluazifop-butyl is a post-emergence stem-and-leaf treatment herbicide that controls annual and perennial grass weeds well, but is ineffective against broad-leaved weeds and sedges. In addition, there are also Surflan, Snapshot and others, all of which can be used to control weeds in Hemerocallis hybrida fields.
Pest and disease control. Rust, leaf spot and leaf blight are diseases to which daylily is highly prone. Rust is a fungal disease and is the main disease of daylily in the middle and late stages. It begins to occur in early May, is most severe from June to July, and gradually stops only after October, harming leaves and flower scapes. At first, a small number of yellow powdery spots appear on the leaves, then gradually spread to the whole leaf, until the whole plant dies. When the disease occurs, fungicides such as triadimefon and nabam can be sprayed for control. Leaf spot is caused by fungi of the genus Fusarium and is the main disease of daylily at the seedling stage. It begins to occur from the end of March to early April, with the peak from mid-to-late April to mid-to-late May. It often occurs in the middle part on both sides of the leaf midrib; after perforation, it interrupts the transport of water and nutrients, and the leaf tips first turn yellow and wither, and finally the whole leaf wilts and dies. Bordeaux mixture or lime sulfur mixture can be sprayed for control.;
Leaf blight is caused by pathogenic fungi of the genus Colletotrichum and is a seedling-stage disease that occurs after leaf spot. It generally begins to occur in early May, is most severe in early to mid-June, and mainly harms leaves and also harms flower scapes. It occurs from the seedling stage onward. At first, water-soaked small spots appear at the middle edge of the leaf, then gradually spread upward and downward, forming brown streaks, and finally turning grayish white; in severe cases the whole leaf dies. It can be controlled by spraying with 50% carbendazim at 600 to 800 times dilution, or by spraying Bordeaux mixture around Qingming.
The main insect pests of daylily are red spider mites and aphids. Red spider mites are small, spider-like red insects that mainly pierce and suck sap on the underside of leaves, causing grayish-white small spots at the damaged areas. They can be controlled with 40% dimethoate emulsion, 20% clofentezine wettable powder, etc. Aphids mainly occur in May, first harming the leaves, then piercing and sucking sap on the flower buds; the damaged buds are thin and small and easily drop. They can be controlled with lime sulfur mixture, 40% dimethoate emulsion, 25% malathion emulsifiable concentrate, tobacco lime water, etc. In addition, in propagation trials of Hemerocallis hybrida, it was found that from May to August snails cause relatively serious damage to Hemerocallis hybrida, and control measures should be taken promptly.
10. Amaryllis
Amaryllis, also known as belladonna lily, lily of the hundred branches, and trumpet flower, is a plant of the genus Hippeastrum in the Amaryllidaceae family. The flower stems of amaryllis stand gracefully upright, with 4 to 6 vermilion trumpet-shaped flowers borne at the top, opening toward the sun, appearing especially gorgeous and pleasing. Because the appearance of amaryllis closely resembles clivia, it also has the elegant name "gentleman red." In Tianjin it is called "rouge cave," which captures the idea quite well. It is now widely cultivated around the world; besides potted ornamental use, it is planted in open-field courtyards to form community landscapes and add to garden scenery. In recent years, European and American horticulturists, for the convenience of flower growers, have specially produced amaryllis as canned flowers. To date, production in Europe is relatively large, with the main producing country, the Netherlands, reaching 19.1 million US dollars in amaryllis sales output value in 1995, and Belgium, Germany, France and Spain all have certain output. In Asia, eastern India produces amaryllis bulbs, but production facilities are backward and quality is poor. In our country, during the period from 1912 to 1949, potted ornamental amaryllis already existed in Nanjing, Shanghai and other places, and beginning in the 1970s it was planted around open-field courtyards in southern China as a landscape feature. In recent years, many excellent varieties have been introduced from abroad across the country, many of them dwarf varieties suitable for potted ornamental use, creating conditions for the development and utilization of amaryllis.
Seed sowing and division are commonly used for propagation.
Seed propagation: from May to June, sow indoors in pots; the suitable germination temperature is 18 to 22°C, and germination occurs about 20 days after sowing. Pay attention to fertilizer and water management at the seedling stage; when there are 3 to 4 true leaves, carry out the first transplanting, maintaining a certain plant spacing. From sowing to flowering takes 3 to 4 years.
Division propagation: potted amaryllis is divided when repotting from February to March. Before dividing and planting, first remove the old roots and old soil, separate the small bulbs growing beside the mother bulb, and pot them separately according to bulb size; generally flowering bulbs have a circumference of 24 to 26 cm. When planting, one third of the bulb is exposed above the soil surface. Planted in March, they bloom from April to May.
In recent years, scale cuttings, scoring and tissue culture methods have been widely used abroad to propagate amaryllis.
Scale cutting propagation: choose well-developed, disease-free bulbs, peel off the overly mature outer scales, and keep the plump middle scales for propagation, but each scale must have a stem plate. In September, insert the scales into a sand bed at 18 to 20°C, keep moist, and small bulbs form and roots grow at the base that same year. In the following spring, new shoots grow from the small bulbs, and they need to be cultured for another 3 years to become flowering bulbs.
Scoring propagation: choose bulbs with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm, soak the bulbs in 1% copper sulfate solution for 5 minutes, wash with water, cut off one third of the bulb, gently score the main bud in the center of the bulb with a knife, place flat on a sand bed, keep room temperature at 18 to 22°C and maintain relatively high air humidity; after 2 months, several small bulbs form between the scales.
For potted amaryllis, choose loose, fertile, slightly acidic leaf mold or peat soil. Flowering bulbs with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm need a 12 cm pot, while commercial cultivation also uses 18 to 20 cm pots, planting 3 bulbs. The planting depth is based on one third of the bulb being exposed above the potting soil. Water little at first planting; when flower stems or leaves appear, keep the potting soil moist. During the growing period, fertilize once every half month; after the flower stem is extracted, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer once. After flowering, continue to supply water and fertilizer to promote plump and full bulbs. In commercial production, amaryllis is often forced; flowering bulbs pretreated at a low temperature of 5°C for 50 days bloom 6 weeks after planting under conditions of a soil temperature of 21°C and a room temperature of 17 to 19°C. According to trial reports, soaking bulbs in indoleacetic acid can increase the weight and number of small bulbs. Soaking bulbs in gibberellin (GA3) can increase bulb weight and enlarge flower diameter. Soaking in chlormequat (CCC) can increase the number of flowers. Spraying the leaves of amaryllis with indoleacetic acid, gibberellin and chlormequat can likewise increase the number of small bulbs and flowers.
If seeds are to be collected from amaryllis, artificial pollination should be carried out to increase the seed-setting rate. Because amaryllis seeds are flat and extremely thin, they easily lose water and lose germination ability, so they should be sown immediately after collection. If producing bulbs, promptly cut off the flower stems after flowering to avoid consuming bulb nutrients. After leaves grow, strengthen fertilization to promote bulb enlargement and the production of new bulbs. Bulbs can be stored for 8 to 10 weeks at 13°C, and can be stored long-term at 5°C.
The main diseases include viral disease, spot disease and nematode disease. Spot disease harms leaves and flowers.
11. Peony
Peony is one of our country's traditional famous flowers, with a cultivation history of more than 3,000 years. Peony flower forms are varied, the flower colors are gorgeous, the green leaves are elegant, and the clumps are full; used for landscaping and ornamental purposes, it can lead people into a breathtakingly beautiful fantasy world.
Peony is a perennial herbaceous flower of the Ranunculaceae family, with a plant height of about 1 m. The flowers are borne singly at the top of the current year's branches, and some are borne in the leaf axils at the top; the flower stems are relatively long. The flowers are divided into single-petaled and double-petaled types, and the flower colors include white, yellow, pink, purple, rose and many other colors.
Peony flowers have strong cold resistance and can overwinter naturally in the open field in most areas of northern China. However, their heat resistance is relatively poor, and growth stops in the hot summer. They like sunlight, but can also grow and bloom under light shade. They like moisture but fear waterlogging, and are suitable for growing in deep, fertile and well-drained sandy loam; low-lying saline-alkali land is not suitable for cultivation.
Peony is commonly propagated by division, with the division time preferably from late August to mid-September. The division method is to dig up clumps more than 3 years old, shake off the soil, dry them in the shade until slightly wilted, then take three or four buds as one plant, find the smallest natural connection point and cut it apart with a sharp knife, and coat the cut surface with charcoal powder for antisepsis. To promote new root sprouting, the fleshy roots can be retained at 15 cm in length and cut short. After division, plant as soon as possible.
The growth characteristic of peony is that after sprouting in spring it grows rapidly and blooms, and after flowering it stops growing upward, and the number of leaves no longer increases. At the end of autumn all aboveground stems and leaves die, while underground the long spindle-shaped fleshy roots accumulate sufficient nutrients, buried deep in the soil, and at the root crown there are dormant young buds waiting to emerge, breaking through the soil when spring returns to the earth the following year.
1. Land requirements:
Choose sandy soil with high terrain, dryness, good drainage, deep soil layers, and looseness and fertility. Before planting, apply sufficient base fertilizer, preferably well-rotted cake fertilizer (200 kg/mu) or dried manure (1500 kg/mu), and only after deep digging and leveling can planting proceed.
2. Planting time and specifications:
The suitable planting time is generally from late August (End of Heat) to late September (Autumn Equinox); for planting density, generally for ornamental use 80 cm x 70 cm can be used, planting about 1200 plants per mu, and for production use 60 cm x 50 cm can be used, planting about 2200 plants per mu. When planting, the hole specifications are generally about 35 cm deep and about 20 cm in diameter; the depth of the seedling is preferably with the buds 3 cm below ground level; finally fill the hole with soil, firm it, and pile up a 10 cm mound of soil to protect against cold, preserve soil moisture and serve as a marker. After planting, depending on soil moisture, appropriate watering can be done for overwintering.
3. Field management:
(1) Cultivating and weeding: in the following spring, before peony sprouts, loosen and level the soil mound from the previous autumn; during the growing period, keep the soil loose and free of weeds, hoeing after rain and hoeing during prolonged drought.
(2) Removing side buds: in addition to the bud borne at the top of the stem, peony also bears 3 to 6 side buds in the upper leaf axils of the stem. If the side buds are removed early, nutrients can be concentrated, making the main bud flower large and full; if the side buds are kept, then flowering is abundant and the ornamental period is long. This can be controlled independently according to need.
(3) Watering and topdressing: peony has fleshy roots and a developed root system, with strong drought resistance, and generally does not need watering; if spring drought or dog-day drought lasts a long time, water once or twice, preferably with pollution-free river water. In winter, depending on whether the soil is dry or wet, one overwintering watering can also be given. Peony grows vigorously and has a high fertilizer demand, and can be fertilized twice a year. Before winter begins, some slow-release fertilizer can be applied, such as well-rotted cake fertilizer (150 kg/mu) or dried night soil (1500 kg/mu); before or after flowering, some quick-acting fertilizer can be applied, such as compound fertilizer or diammonium (10 to 15 kg/mu); foliar topdressing can also be carried out in combination, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate or trace-element fertilizer, sprayed once every 15 to 20 days.
4. Pest and disease control:
(1) Diseases: mainly leaf spot disease, including red spot disease and brown spot disease. The peak incidence is generally in the summer and autumn seasons with high temperature and high humidity. In the early stage of the disease, 40% carbendazim at 800 times dilution can be sprayed on the leaf surface for control; in severe cases, use 40% carbendazim at 500 times dilution and spray once every 15 days, and 2 to 3 times can achieve control.
(2) Insect pests: mainly white grubs and nematodes. For white grubs, during the peak occurrence period from July to August, use 30% carbofuran (5 kg/mu) or 50% phoxim granules (3 kg/mu) or isofenphos-methyl aqueous solution, mix with organic fertilizer or sandy soil into poison bait, spread evenly, and then deep hoe. Nematodes are root-knot nematodes with strong transmissibility and cause relatively serious harm to peony. The symptoms are the appearance of root nodules of different sizes on the fibrous roots, weak plant growth, yellowing, scorching and early dropping of leaf margins, and in severe cases the plant becomes shorter until it dies. For control, 30% carbofuran granules can be used at 25 g/sq m, evenly applied to the affected plot during the rainy summer period, then deep hoed 5 to 10 cm. Because root-knot nematodes are aerobic lower animals that mainly live within the 5 to 20 cm soil layer, when applying the pesticide, it must absolutely not be too deep.
12. Chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant. In the long-day seasons of spring and summer, it can only carry out vegetative growth. After the beginning of autumn, as the weather turns cooler and the sunshine duration shortens, it can begin flower bud differentiation, develop flower buds, and bloom with gorgeous flowers in the frost.
Chrysanthemum has strong adaptability and is not strict about climatic and soil conditions. It is cultivated everywhere in our country, and can grow in slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils. Small chrysanthemums have stronger cold resistance than large chrysanthemums, and their flowers do not wither after several severe frosts. At temperatures above 10°C, dormant buds can sprout, and a temperature of 20 to 25°C is most suitable for growth. Chrysanthemum is drought-tolerant and fears waterlogging, and likes loose, fertile sandy soil rich in humus, a cool climate and sufficient sunlight.
Chrysanthemum can be propagated by many methods such as division, cuttings, grafting and sowing. Grafting and sowing have high technical requirements and relatively cumbersome propagation processes, and without superb cutting and grafting skills and techniques such as selection of good varieties and artificial pollination, it is very difficult to propagate successfully. These two propagation methods are also only used in nurseries when large numbers of seedlings are needed. For home chrysanthemum growing, division and cuttings are generally used for propagation.
1. Seed propagation. Before sowing, apply sufficient well-rotted organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, deeply dig and finely rake, and make flat beds. Mix the seeds evenly with fine sand and broadcast, cover with fine soil about 0.5 cm thick, and after sowing cover with a shade net and water thoroughly. In early spring when it is cold, cloudy and rainy, cover with plastic film to maintain soil moisture and temperature. Watering should be done by fine spraying to prevent the soil surface from crusting. After about 10 days the seedlings emerge; remove the shade net or plastic film, and when the seedlings have 2 to 3 leaves they can be transplanted to the field. Chrysanthemum greens can be sown directly; in southern China they can be sown in February, while in cold northern regions they can only be sown in early April, with about 0.2 kg of seed per mu.
2. Division propagation. In mid-to-late March, the old chrysanthemum greens stubble can be dug out, exposing the root crown, and the lateral buds that already have roots can be cut off together with the old roots and transplanted into the field. Division propagation is more suitable when new shoots are sprouting.
3. Cutting propagation. Cutting propagation can be carried out throughout the growing season, with the highest survival rate for cuttings taken from April to June. The seedbed is best made with new soil mixed with composted and rotted organic fertilizer. Cut branches with 3 to 5 nodes and 8 to 10 cm in length, remove the basal leaves, and insert to a depth of 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length. After cutting, keep the bed moist and avoid waterlogging; in high-temperature seasons shade is needed, while at lower temperatures a plastic film arched shed can be built to preserve warmth and moisture. Generally after 15 days they can be transplanted to the field.
Some people may like chrysanthemums in a vase, so here are a few tips for everyone:
1. Before putting chrysanthemums in a vase, first cut off the flower leaves on the lower part of the stem that may be submerged in water. Because chrysanthemums have a relatively long flowering period, up to 2 to 3 weeks, while the flower leaves quickly turn yellow; leaves submerged in water will compete with the flowers for nutrients and may also breed bacteria.
2. To make chrysanthemums last longer in the vase, not only should the water be changed every day, but each time the water is changed, cut off 1 inch of the stem base submerged in water, so that the water-absorbing channels are always kept unobstructed.
3. Chrysanthemums in a vase likewise need certain nutrients. The simplest method is to put a vitamin tablet into the water, or add 1 teaspoon of white sugar. However, organic nutrients (such as white sugar) will provide a great possibility for bacterial reproduction, so at the same time 1 to 2 drops of bleach or a little bleaching powder can be put into the water to effectively control bacterial reproduction (the dosage of bleaching powder should be increased or decreased as appropriate according to the amount of water, the number of flowers and the purity of the bleaching powder).
13. Wax Begonia
Wax begonia, also known as glass emerald and glass begonia, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Begonia in the Begoniaceae family. It likes well-drained sandy loam rich in humus, is not cold-tolerant, and avoids exposure to strong sun and rain. The single leaves are alternate, ovate to long ovate, and the leaf colors include green, dark red, etc. The flower colors include bright red, pink, white, etc., and it blooms in all seasons.
Sowing propagation can be done in all four seasons. First compact the potting soil and soak it through. Because the seeds are tiny, they should be mixed with fine sand, scattered evenly, and lightly covered with fine sand or not covered. Cover with a glass pane or film to preserve moisture, and they will soon germinate. When the seedlings grow to 2 to 3 leaves, move them into pots, at which time dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied. When they grow to 4 to 6 cm tall, plant them out for normal management.
Cutting propagation. Cut 7 to 10 cm cuttings, dry them in the shade for 1 to 2 hours, keep half a leaf, and insert them into sandy soil. Keep the potting soil moist, and they will soon take root; this can be done in all four seasons.
Cultivation management. The potting soil should be well-drained sandy loam rich in humus. During the growing period, moderate moisture is required, and apply once every 1 to 2 weeks with composted dilute liquid fertilizer. Wax begonia likes light but avoids exposure to strong sunlight; too strong light easily makes the leaves curl and develop scorch spots, while insufficient light makes the plants grow thin and weak and affects flowering. The optimum temperature for growth is 20°C, and the minimum temperature is 10°C; lower than that it is prone to cold damage. In the high-temperature summer season it is in a semi-dormant state, and should be placed in a well-ventilated shaded place, and fertilization should be stopped at this time. To make the plant shape full, pinching should be done multiple times during the growing period, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied at the same time. After 1 to 2 years of planting, wax begonia appears aged, and can be heavily pruned from the base to promote new shoots, and after pinching treatment, the original lush posture can be restored. Repot once a year, removing old roots and necrotic roots.
14. Fuchsia
Fuchsia, also known as hanging bell begonia and lantern begonia, is an evergreen subshrub of the genus Fuchsia in the Onagraceae family. The flowers are borne singly in the leaf axils at the tips of the branches; the pedicel is long, and the calyx tube is bell-shaped or tubular, often drooping. The flower colors include pink, purple-red, apricot yellow, white, etc., and it blooms in all seasons, most abundantly in spring and autumn. There are many varieties of fuchsia, with different plant forms and flower postures.
Fuchsia is native to South America and likes a mild, cool and humid environment; its optimum growth temperature is 10°C to 15°C. In summer, it fears strong direct sunlight and high temperatures; in winter, it fears cold below 5°C. No wonder it is called the "delicate lady among flowers." Its requirements for fertilizer and water differ according to the season; the demand is relatively large in spring and autumn. In the hot summer season, fuchsia is in a semi-dormant state, and watering must be controlled to avoid root rot and death. Ventilation and cooling measures should be taken, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently, and the plants should be placed under a shade shed to ensure safe passage through summer. After the weather cools in autumn it revives; strengthen fertilizer and water management, pinch and shape in good time, and promote side branches. Generally, 2 to 3 weeks after pinching it can bloom, so pinching is also often used to control the flowering period. The potting soil should preferably be fertile, loose and well-drained sandy loam, and it can tolerate weak alkalinity.
After flowering, fuchsia sets fruit with difficulty, so cuttings are usually used for propagation; this can be done throughout the year, but spring is preferable. One-year-old young branches are the easiest to root; choose robust and plump top branches with three or four nodes, 5 cm to 10 cm long, keep the upper 3 small leaves, and insert them into sandy soil to a depth of one node; keep the temperature at 15°C to 20°C; spray water once a day to maintain air humidity, and they will take root after two weeks. The young plantlets should be potted promptly with potting mix and pinched promptly to promote side branches. Old plants should be repotted every spring, combined with heavy pruning during propagation, and the old roots around them should be cut off to rejuvenate the plants. Spring cuttings have an advantage, namely that the young seedlings have relatively strong heat resistance and mostly do not lose leaves during the dog days. Cuttings taken before the dog days bloom after autumn, hence the saying "raise the young, not the old." If the plants lose leaves in summer, generally after the "Beginning of Autumn" they should be cut back promptly to promote new branches, topdress with liquid fertilizer, and they can bloom in autumn.
15. Clivia
Clivia has strong vitality and is easy to cultivate, but to grow it well, the correct cultivation method is indispensable. For a good clivia, cultivation skill and the plant itself can be divided 30-70, which shows the importance of cultivation techniques. Only by understanding the growth habits of clivia can one explore and summarize the correct cultivation techniques, and only then can one grow clivia with ease and get twice the result with half the effort; the clivia one grows will then be pleasing to the eye. The growth of clivia is greatly affected by water, soil, fertilizer, light, temperature and humidity factors. Let me discuss my views on these six aspects:
1. Water: As everyone knows, plant growth cannot be separated from water; the absorption of nutrients and all physiological activities must depend on water. But different plants have different requirements for water, and the water quality in different places is also different. Clivia's requirements for water are as follows:
The pH of water: Clivia likes neutral or slightly acidic water, with a pH value of about 6.5. The pH of water varies from place to place; if it is not neutral or slightly acidic water, improvement should be considered. For example, alkaline water can be neutralized with rice-washing water.
Water quality: Tap water, river water, lake water and so on differ in water quality from one another; clean water rich in minerals is best. Tap water has been treated by artificially added chemicals, and usually should be stored for several days before being used to water flowers.
Water content in the soil: The suitable water content should be 20% to 40%, preferably neither dry nor wet. If the water content in the soil is too high for a long time, the air permeability in the soil will worsen, easily causing root rot; conversely, if the water content is too low, it will cause dehydration, leading to shriveling and withering of the roots.
Watering method: The principle of watering is not to water if not dry, and to water thoroughly when watering. The practice of giving just a little water at a time, like a dragonfly skimming the water, is extremely harmful. The dryness mentioned here does not mean dry to the point of no water, but means that the water content in the soil has become relatively low, which is the time to water. People who often grow clivia usually tap the flower pot with their fingers and judge the water content in the soil by the sound produced by tapping. If the sound produced by tapping is dull, it indicates that the water content in the soil is relatively high, and there is no need to water; conversely, if the sound is crisp, it indicates that the water content in the soil is relatively low, and water should be given immediately. The reason the practice of giving just a little water at a time is extremely harmful is that most of the small amount of water is absorbed by the soil or directly flows away along channels formed in the soil, and very little is absorbed by the root system, almost equivalent to not watering at all.;
In addition, when watering, note that the water temperature and soil temperature should be close, and the temperature difference between the two should not be too large; the watering time is preferably in the morning and evening. At noon in summer, the temperature is very high, so it is not suitable to water; watering should avoid the flower center, especially during the period of stem elongation and flowering, to prevent unclean water from causing heart rot.
2. Soil: Clivia's roots are fleshy roots, suitable for growing in loose, fertile soil with good water permeability and air permeability, so the choice of cultivation soil should strictly consider these four factors.
Soil quality: Humus soil meets the above four requirements and is the first choice for growing clivia. The humus soil is best made of oak leaves (oak tree leaves); leaves of other trees such as larch, hazel, pear and apple can also be used, but pesticide factors must be noted. Walnut tree leaves are toxic and cannot be used. High-quality humus soil should be moderately rotted tree leaves, with a rotting degree of about 50%; a high rotting degree is not good, as water permeability and air permeability are poor.
To further improve the structure of the humus soil and improve water permeability and air permeability, some larch pine needles, carbon formed by burning rice husks (not ash), washed river sand and furnace cinder can also be added, accounting for 10% to 20%. Compacted and barren ordinary soil is not suitable for growing clivia and will seriously affect the normal growth of clivia.
In addition, the pH of soil differs in different regions; neutral or slightly acidic soil should be chosen, with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.
3. Fertilizer: As the saying goes, "For a crop to flower, it all depends on fertilizer as the master." Fertilizer is an indispensable important nutrient source for the vigorous growth of clivia. Clivia is a flower that likes fertilizer, and mature clivia must have sufficient fertility.
Fertilizing clivia should be determined according to the size, variety, growth and development status and season of the clivia. Too much or too little fertilization is not conducive to the growth of clivia. Too much will cause root burn, and the leaves will wrinkle or become stunted; too little will lack nutrients, and the clivia will grow slowly, with the leaves obviously becoming narrower, soft and not upright.
Types and uses of fertilizer: Fertilizers are divided into solid fertilizer and liquid fertilizer.
Solid fertilizer: After castor seeds, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, perilla seeds and the like are stir-fried, adding a small amount of bone meal makes a very good solid fertilizer. Solid fertilizer is usually used as base fertilizer (bottom fertilizer and waist fertilizer), applied twice a year (April to May in spring, September to October in autumn), but it must not touch the roots, so as to avoid causing root burn.
Liquid fertilizer: After sesame, peanuts, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, freshwater fish (with internal organs removed) and the like are fully fermented, they make good liquid fertilizer. Liquid fertilizer is used as a supplementary fertilizer and has a quick fertilizer effect but short-lasting fertility, and can be applied once every half month. The application of liquid fertilizer should follow the principle of low concentration and small amounts applied many times, to prevent excessive fertilizer from burning the roots. In spring and autumn, clivia grows vigorously, and liquid fertilizer should be applied to provide sufficient nutrients. When applying liquid fertilizer, prevent it from dripping onto the clivia leaves or the heart of the plant, so as to avoid leaf rot or heart rot; after each fertilization, use a spray bottle to spray clean water to rinse the clivia leaves or the heart of the plant.
What has been discussed above is all organic fertilizer; inorganic fertilizer can also be used, and takes effect faster. The growth of clivia stresses nutritional balance, requiring not only the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium we are familiar with, but also various trace elements. A serious deficiency of any one element will have adverse effects on the normal growth of clivia. This is also the reason people have long mostly used organic fertilizer.
4. Light: Light is an indispensable element for clivia's photosynthesis. Sufficient light is needed; when growing clivia indoors, it should be placed on a windowsill to ensure sufficient light. It is not tolerant of strong light and likes weak light (dappled light). In summer the light is strong, and shading treatment is needed to prevent scorching of the leaves. Clivia leaves have strong phototropism; regularly adjust the direction toward the light so that the plant shape is neat. If conditions permit, the direction in which the leaves extend should be aligned with the north-south direction.
Clivia leaves should be kept clean; frequently wipe the dust off the leaves with a soft damp cloth, which is beneficial to photosynthesis.
5. Temperature: The suitable temperature for clivia growth is 15°C to 25°C, neither cold nor hot.
In summer, when the temperature is above 25°C, measures such as ventilation and shading should be taken to cool it down. Above 30°C and with low humidity, the leaf luster will diminish; high temperature with a lot of water will make the leaves grow too long; high temperature may even cause high fever disease, leading to the whole plant rotting away.
Below 10°C, growth and development will be slow; below 5°C, growth will be inhibited; below 0°C, the leaves will freeze and be damaged or die.
6. Humidity: Clivia likes a warm and humid environment. Low environmental humidity will affect the luster of the leaves; dry air and wind and sun in the open field will make the leaves lose their delicate luster, becoming rough and dull in color. People have found that clivia cultivated in flower cellars is delicate, dewy and full of luster, while clivia grown on windowsills cannot achieve this effect, and this is the reason. The solution is to try to create a small environment similar to a flower cellar on the balcony.
To grow clivia well in summer, one should achieve the "six preventions" and "six don'ts."
1. Prevent direct sunlight, do not expose to strong sun. In summer, clivia should be shielded from strong light all day. Using the slanting sunlight for a while in the early morning each day is fully sufficient to satisfy photosynthesis.
2. Prevent high temperatures, do not let it dry out. The suitable temperature for clivia in summer is 18°C to 25°C; putting it in an air-conditioned room is best, and a shaded, ventilated spot on the balcony is also acceptable. When watering, it is best to use tap water that has been sunned for two or three days, and water once after 6 p.m. each day; do not let the potting soil become too dry or too wet.
3. Prevent leggy growth, do not fertilize. Summer is the dormant period of clivia; stop fertilizing, water moderately, and controlling humidity is an effective measure. If too much fertilizer was applied to the potting soil or the fertilizer effect is relatively strong, pour out the upper part of the soil from the flower pot, mix in 1/3 to 2/3 sand, mix well and put it back into the pot; this not only reduces the fertilizer effect but also has a cooling effect.
4. Prevent dust pollution, do not water with dirty water. Clivia leaf surfaces should be kept clean; once a week, dip a fine gauze in clean water, wring it dry and gently wipe once. Watering with dirty water will cause roots and leaves to rot and turn yellow.
5. Prevent soil compaction, do not use clay (loess) in the pot. Clivia is suited to cultivation in loose, air-permeable, water-permeable, fertile humus soil with a pH value of about 7.0.
6. Prevent disease, do not let it become infected. When changing soil or wiping leaves, the movements should be gentle, to prevent roots and leaves from being broken and exuding sap, which can trigger infection and cause decay.
16. Cyclamen
Cyclamen is native to the southeastern coast of the Mediterranean, from the coastal low-mountain forest zones of Israel and Jordan to Greece. It is now widely cultivated around the world. Cyclamen likes a cool, humid environment with sufficient light. The optimum growth temperature is 15 to 20°C; below 10°C, growth vigor weakens, flower color becomes dull, and it easily withers; when the temperature reaches above 30°C, the plant enters dormancy. In the hot summer regions of our country, at that time cyclamen is in a dormant or semi-dormant state; while in the Kunming region of Yunnan Province, where it is like spring all year round, the summer is cool and humid, so it does not go dormant and continues normal growth. When the temperature exceeds 35°C, the plant is very easily harmed and rots to death. At the seedling stage it has relatively strong resistance to high temperatures. During the growing period, the relative humidity is preferably 70% to 75%. Cyclamen is neutral to day length, and temperature is the main environmental factor affecting flower bud differentiation. The suitable temperature for flower bud differentiation is 15 to 18°C. During the growing period, the required light intensity is 28000 to 36000 Lx; if higher than 45000 Lx or lower than 15000 Lx, the photosynthetic intensity decreases significantly. However, it is also not tolerant of strong sunlight exposure in summer, and should be cultivated under a shade shed. It often self-pollinates, and can also cross-pollinate. It has relatively strong resistance to sulfur dioxide and is suitable for indoor greening in factory areas.
I. Key points for propagation and cultivation of potted cyclamen: cultivation techniques
Sowing is mostly used for propagation. Sow in September and it blooms in winter of the following year. The cut tuber method can also be used for propagation, but it easily rots, so it is mostly not adopted. The key to cultivation is that during the summer dormant period, a cool but not overly wet environment should be maintained. Tubers 2 to 3 years old have the strongest growth, so old tubers are often culled. Repot once a year.
II. Propagation and cultivation care of cyclamen
1. Sowing. Cyclamen tubers cannot naturally produce small tubers, so sowing is generally used for propagation. However, cyclamen virus damage is serious, and seeds often have a relatively high virus infection rate. If the virus infection rate is >20%, then before sowing, the seeds must be subjected to virus elimination treatment. The method is: soak the seeds in 0.1% mercuric chloride for 1 to 2 minutes, then rinse clean with water; then soak in 10% sodium phosphate solution for 10 to 20 minutes, and rinse clean; finally soak in a 35 to 40°C colloidal solution, treat for 48 hours, rinse clean with water, and then sow. Determine the sowing date according to the time flowers are to be supplied. Generally sow 13 months before the flower supply time, and even early-flowering varieties require 8 to 10 months. To supply flowers for Christmas, New Year's Day and Spring Festival, sowing is usually done from September to October.
Cyclamen seeds germinate slowly and unevenly, with a germination rate of about 85%-95%. To promote earlier and more uniform germination, seeds can be soaked before sowing to speed up sprouting (virus-free seeds do not need this treatment if sown immediately). Soak the seeds in cold water for 24 hours, or in warm water at 30°C for 2-3 hours, wash off the sticky material on the seed surface, wrap them in a moist cloth to sprout, and keep them at 25°C for 1-2 days. Once the seeds show slight signs of sprouting, take them out and sow. For the sowing soil, use equal parts vermiculite and fine cinder; equal parts peat and vermiculite; or equal parts loam, leaf mold and river sand. Sow in individual spots at a spacing of 2cm x 2cm, covering with 0.5cm of soil. Keep the potting soil moist by the bottom-watering method, at 18-20°C, and germination takes 30-40 days. When the seedlings have produced 1 true leaf, prick them out at a spacing of 3.5cm x 3.5cm, using a soil mix of leaf mold 5, loam 3 and river sand 2. When planting, set the top of the small tuber level with the soil surface, keep it moist, and place it in weak light during the recovery period; after growth resumes, gradually increase light and improve ventilation, with 15-18°C being suitable, apply appropriate topdressing, and be careful not to let the fertilizer solution touch the leaves, so as to avoid causing rot. Pot up the seedlings when they have 3-5 leaves.
2. Tuber division method For superior varieties of cyclamen that set seed poorly, tuber division can be used for propagation. In late August, when the tuber is about to sprout, cut the tuber vertically from the top into several pieces, each piece needing to have a bud eye, coat the cut surfaces with plant ash or charcoal powder, let them dry slightly, and then plant them in pots. Careful maintenance and management are required. This method has a low propagation coefficient, the tubers rot easily, management is difficult, flowering is sparse, the plant shape is unattractive, and the tuber exposed above the soil surface is not round and neat, so it is seldom used.
In recent years, extensive research has been carried out internationally on the vegetative propagation of cyclamen. Successful methods include: 1. tuber tissue culture, cutting the tuber into pieces and culturing them under sterile conditions to form regenerated plants; 2. using leaf buds with some tuber tissue for cuttings; 3. in the original pot, removing the upper part of the tuber and then cutting it vertically into sections to make it form regenerated shoots, etc. The third method is described in detail below. The cyclamen tuber is formed by the abnormal thickening of the hypocotyl. After the upper part is removed, adventitious buds can grow from the cut surface and then form regenerated plants. By dividing 1 tuber, many regenerated individuals can be obtained. The procedure is: select a robust, plump and well-developed tuber, and divide it 1-2 months after flowering; the suitable period for division is May to June. First adjust the moisture of the potting soil, because if division is carried out under normal cultivation conditions, the wound will secrete a large amount of sap. This bleeding not only affects growth vigor, especially hindering the formation of adventitious buds, but also easily leads to rot. Therefore, watering must be controlled to reduce soil moisture. When the leaf tips feel soft to the touch, this is the suitable time for division. First remove the upper part of the tuber, about 1/3 of the tuber's thickness. Then make radial cuts (for tubers with a diameter below 4cm) or checkerboard cuts (for tubers with a diameter above 4cm) vertically, to a depth that does not damage the root system. If checkerboard cutting is used, the spacing between cuts is 1cm; a tuber 6cm in diameter can be cut into 27 pieces.
Immediately after division, cover the pot with plastic film and carry out curing at 30°C until the wound forms periderm, which takes about 12 days, then promote adventitious buds at 20°C. During this period (about 20-30 days), the key point of management is to maintain the soil moisture at the time of division. The pot can be weighed together with the soil at the time of division, and every 2-3 days the lost water is replenished according to weight. 70-80 days after division, each cut piece forms adventitious buds, then lower the temperature to 15°C to let them gradually adapt to the environment. From the beginning of adventitious bud formation (about 35 days after division), gradually increase the amount of water given, and apply liquid fertilizer once a week. About 100 days after division, regenerated plants have basically formed and can be transplanted into pots. Usually they flower 11-14 months after division. This method is carried out in the original cultivation pot, is simple and easy to perform, and does not require complex techniques or equipment; the time to form regenerated plants is short; the regenerated individuals have uniform traits; and the regeneration rate is high. It is a vegetative propagation method with great application prospects. It can be used to multiply clonal lines of superior varieties; in addition, it also has practical value in the production of first-generation hybrid (F1) seeds.
III. To meet the need for flowers in different periods, the following methods are mainly used to control the flowering period:
1. Adjust the sowing date By making use of the strong tolerance of seedling-stage plants to high temperatures and placing them in a cool, ventilated environment so that they do not go dormant in summer, the flowering period can be advanced. Sowing can be done from December to early summer, and flowering occurs in about 12 months. The sowing time can be determined according to the required flowering period.
2. Control environmental factors to make the plants delay or advance dormancy, or to make dormant tubers break or extend dormancy. For example, for flowering plants about to enter dormancy, applying additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, providing appropriate shade, and placing them in a cool, ventilated place at 25°C can allow them to continue flowering until June to July.
3. Use certain volatile chemical agents to break or promote dormancy of the tubers in order to control the flowering period. For example, injecting or fumigating with aqueous solutions of ether, camphor, etc. into the buds can break dormancy. For example, in a closed space of 1000 cubic meters, placing 0.5cm of ether and treating for 24-48 hours will quickly break the dormancy of cyclamen tubers, restore growth and advance flowering. For another example, placing a cloth ball soaked with ester solutions such as ethyl naphthaleneacetate or ethyl phenylcarbamate beside a cyclamen tuber about to sprout can keep the tuber from sprouting for several weeks, thereby delaying the flowering period.
IV. Control of cyclamen pests and diseases
1. Soft rot is caused by Bacterium
aroideae, and occurs under high temperature and high humidity in summer. It damages leaf stalks and flower stalks, causing water-soaked softening; in dry weather the lesions dry up; in rainy weather they rot and give off a foul odor. The pathogen overwinters in the soil. Control methods: first, the potting soil for planting must be thoroughly sterilized; second, in summer when temperatures are high, control water, do not apply nitrogen fertilizer, do not let the plants be injured, maintain air circulation, and provide appropriate shade; third, promptly remove diseased leaves and burn them, and spray with Bordeaux mixture.
2. Anthracnose is caused by the pathogen Glomerella
rufomaculans. The lesions are tea-brown, round and sunken; later the lesions expand and bear black conidia, which disperse and infect through water. Control methods: remove infected leaves and leaf stalks and burn them; avoid wetting the leaves when watering; in the early stage of the disease, spray with a 500-600 times dilution of 50% carbendazim.
3. Nematode disease is caused by parasitism by the cyst nematode Heterodelaradicicola. A soil temperature of 25-30°C and soil moisture of about 40% favor nematode damage, invading the roots and forming root galls. Infected plants grow weakly, the lower leaves turn yellow, and the whole plant may even die. Control methods: soil sterilization; burning infected plants; soaking in hot water at 50°C for 10 minutes can kill the nematodes.
4. Aphids cause leaves to curl, leaf stalks to bend, growth to be hindered, and flowers to fail to open. They can be controlled with a 1500 times dilution of dimethoate. Red spider mites are also seen causing damage, and can be sprayed with a 1500 times dilution of dicofol.
17. Narcissus
In the cold winter months, narcissus can, in a dish of clear water, unfold its green leaves and produce elegant, fragrant flowers. Placed on a table indoors, it brings people vitality and a sense of spring.
According to an introduction to Chinese flowers: narcissus cultivation methods include soil culture, sand culture, water culture and carved shaping. The cultivation requirements are not high; as long as the temperature is kept at about 15°C, there is sufficient sunlight, and water is given frequently and changed often, it can flower in 25-30 days. But several points should be noted:
1. The temperature must not exceed 25°C, otherwise growth stops and the plant enters dormancy, causing the flower buds to turn yellow, shrivel and dry up;
2. Sunlight must be sufficient, otherwise the leaves will grow into garlic-like leaves;
3. The water used must be clean, otherwise water deterioration will cause pollution and root rot.
Narcissus has a special growth characteristic: its flowering date can be decided by people themselves. If you want it to bloom during the Spring Festival, you can plant the bulb (narcissus head) in a pot about 20 days to 300 days before the Spring Festival. After potting, it begins to grow until flowering. Several cultivation methods are introduced below:
Soil culture
For soil culture, the soil should be loose leaf mold. Before planting, peel off the dry, withered scale pieces on the outside of the narcissus head and scrape off the old roots, then add leaf mold to 3cm below the rim of the pot. Hold the pot with both hands and shake it so that the leaf mold becomes firm, then set the narcissus basal plate in the pot, continue adding soil for about 1cm, then water thoroughly, and place the pot in a cool place. After 5 days, when the basal plate has grown roots, place the pot in a sunny place for cultivation. When watering in soil culture, pay attention to "dry then wet," that is, do not water if the soil is not dry, and once you water, water until it leaks from the bottom of the pot. Watering should be done in the morning or evening, otherwise it will damage root growth.
Sand culture
For sand culture, it is best to use washed clean fine sand, and the pot should also be a breathable clay pot. Before planting, first put sand into the pot to 3cm below the rim, then set the narcissus head, with old scale pieces and old roots removed, in the pot filled with fine sand, and add about 1cm more sand so that the lower stem of the narcissus head is buried about 1cm in the sand. Then water thoroughly and place in a cool place. After 5 days, put it in a sunny place until it flowers. When growing narcissus heads in sand, water thoroughly every day; failure to water in time will cause water shortage and affect root growth of the flowers. Watering should also be arranged in the morning or evening.
Water culture
Before water culture, also peel off the old scale pieces and old roots cleanly, then place it in the narcissus pot used for cultivation, add water to about 1cm below the bulb of the narcissus head, and place it in a cool place; after the basal plate has grown roots, place it in a sunny place until flowering. For water-cultured narcissus, it is best to change the water every day. On the one hand, this prevents water deterioration and pollution from causing root rot; on the other hand, by changing the water every day, the water stays clean and the roots grown are also white and beautiful.
Carved shaping of narcissus
In order to make the flowers and leaves grow in varied and graceful forms, the flower head needs to be carved. The specific procedure is: first peel off the dry, withered scales on the outside of the bulb and scrape off the old roots, then carve. When carving, first observe the growth tendency of the buds, and use the curved side as the carving surface, then use a small pointed knife to make a light horizontal cut line on the bulb 2cm from the basal plate, from left to right, then make one vertical line on each of the left and right sides, then peel off the scales layer by layer within the range of the horizontal and vertical lines, and at the same time dig out the scales between the buds until the leaves and the pale yellow flower scape are exposed; at this point the leaves can be curled. Then shape the flower scape: use a small knife to scrape a line from top to bottom above the flower scape and below the flower bud, or use a needle to prick the flower scape several times from top to bottom; the growth of the flower scape will then become abnormal and likewise bend toward the wounded side. According to the requirements of different shapes, the degree and position of scraping also differ. After carving and shaping, the narcissus head should be promptly soaked in water with the wounded surface facing down to remove the mucus secreted from the wound, changing the water every day, and soaking for about 2-3 days. When the mucus has been cleaned away, take it out and cover the basal plate (root plate) with absorbent cotton. Then place it with the carved surface facing up in a narcissus pot, add water, and place it in a cool place for cultivation. Change the water once a day to keep the water clean. When the basal plate has grown about 1cm long, place the narcissus pot in a sunny place for cultivation. Remember that during cultivation the temperature must not exceed 20°C, change the water frequently, once a day, spray water frequently, 1-2 times a day, and provide frequent sunlight; in this way the flowers cultivated will be luxuriant, fragrant and gracefully shaped.;

Perennial Garden Year-Round Care Schedule

A perennial garden is beautiful, but it also needs your care and attention throughout the year. Garden owners should understand what their garden needs. Here we have listed a detailed task list, precise down to what needs to be done each month, all so that your garden can be healthy, beautiful and full of vitality.

Perennial Garden Year-Round Care Schedule

January

Kick off the new year of gardening work. Cut some large branches from pine and arborvitae and spread them over the perennial beds, both to insulate against cold air and to liven up the winter garden's colors. In spring, use branches with many forks and few thorns for staking. Look through plant mail-order catalogs or product catalogs published by horticultural companies, and order the items you like as early as possible. Check stored tubers and bulbs, and throw away any that have become moldy or rotten. Gardeners in warm regions should clear weeds in the garden ahead of time to prepare for a new round of sprouting. Sow potted plants and perennial bulbous plants.

February

Take stock of gardening tools: repair what needs repairing and oil what needs oiling. Gardeners in the south begin preparing for cultivation from this month, while in the north everyone should still watch out for late spring cold spells. If you have a greenhouse or sunroom, you can buy a spotlight that promotes plant growth to supplement light artificially. Gardeners in the south should deal with winter annual weeds as soon as possible before they set seed, clean up perennial beds, and remove leaves that have already been damaged.

Perennial Garden Year-Round Care Schedule

March

Continue raising seedlings; at this time, good indoor light will benefit the growth of the seedlings. Even in the Yangtze River basin, the phenomenon of "March snow" is also very common, so the protection of cold-sensitive plants cannot be relaxed, and they must not be moved outdoors early. Outdoors, prune the remaining leaves and stems of perennials; at this time it is still too early to remove the mulch on the beds, as nighttime temperatures below 7°C will damage perennials. In the warm regions of the south, divide summer- and autumn-flowering perennials, such as coreopsis, phlox and chrysanthemums, and keep weeding. Fertilize before the plants grow, either foliar feeding or root feeding, or both at the same time.

April

Whether in the south or the north, starting in April the temperature has begun to stabilize and rise clearly. Remove the remaining winter protection around the plants; in high-latitude regions, wait until May to remove it. Do not cultivate the soil when it is too wet. Begin staking top-heavy or tall crops. Gardeners in southern regions should continue weeding and dividing, and buy and plant summer bulbs. At this time, pests and diseases that overwintered latent also begin to become active. The most important thing for pests and diseases is prevention; unsuitable environments, excessive moisture and excessive fertilization are the causes of pests and diseases. Try to eliminate pests and diseases in the early and initial stages.

Perennial Garden Year-Round Care Schedule

May

Renew the mulch around perennials, keeping the mulch layer 5cm deep; consider using compost as mulch, as its decomposition will nourish the plants. Late-emerging plants such as gaura and balloon flowers should no longer be planted now. Prune chrysanthemums, phlox, asters, hyssop and lemon balm down to just two sets of leaves. In southern regions, remove the withered leaves of narcissus and Dutch iris, and pay attention to pest control and weeding.

June

After spring-flowering plants finish flowering, divide them, including bearded iris and Oriental poppy. Remove spent flowers to keep the garden tidy and prevent disease outbreaks. Now, during the peak growing season for plants, 2.5cm of water irrigation is needed every week; if rainfall is low, artificial watering is needed. The general watering principle is "dry then wet." Observe whether the soil is dry to a finger's depth; you can feel the medium's moisture by hand, or insert a chopstick to judge dryness and wetness. When watering, be sure to water thoroughly, moistening things silently like spring rain, rather than washing with water, otherwise the water will simply run off and not truly be absorbed by the soil. It should be noted that in any season, watering must be done before 10 a.m. In midsummer, the soil usually dries before dusk, so depending on the situation, water once more at dusk, or water the leaves. Watering all the leaves can remove dust that hinders leaf respiration, let it run down, promote plant growth, and at the same time let the soil obtain sufficient moisture. When watering at noon, avoid the leaves to prevent sunburn damage from strong sunlight. If the water flow is too strong, it will make the plants lodge, so pay attention to water pressure when watering. Plant autumn-flowering plants.

Perennial Garden Year-Round Care Schedule

July

Visit the flower market to see what plants you still need to add. Divide plants that have grown too dense; divide daylilies after they finish flowering, so that the roots have time to establish. Pay attention to pest control; if necessary, remove insects by hand. Begin planning for autumn.

August

If rainfall is low, water the garden regularly; giving autumn-flowering perennials extra water will help them bloom. Clean up spent flowers and withered leaves in the garden, prune the flower stems of perennials such as bearded iris, daylilies and hostas, and begin ordering plants for autumn sowing.

Perennial Garden Year-Round Care Schedule

September

Buy autumn chrysanthemums and spring-flowering bulbs. Insert flowering pansies into beds or pots; in mild climate zones, these annual plants will be among the few components of the winter garden's color. Plant potted asters and chrysanthemums into the garden to increase the autumn garden's color. Complete overwintering protection measures before the garden soil freezes. Take a walk in parks and flower markets to look for inspiration and see what plants still need to be added for next spring. Autumn pests and diseases still cannot be ignored; pests and diseases on plants such as persimmon, crape myrtle and smoke tree have already entered a high-incidence period, and must be thoroughly eliminated to prevent spread.

October

Sow spring-flowering bulbs and continue watering perennials until they enter dormancy. Clean up the garden, make plant residues into compost, measure the soil pH, add some lime if the soil is too acidic, and treat it with sulfur if it is too alkaline. Dig up and store tender bulbs, such as caladium, agapanthus, dahlia and Alocasia. Most flowers, such as roses, peonies, crape myrtle and pomegranate, should be pruned and shaped in autumn to help the plants reduce nutrient consumption in winter; remove diseased branches, dead branches, overly dense branches and leggy branches, laying a good foundation for next year's growth.

Perennial Garden Year-Round Care Schedule

November

After the soil freezes, cover the garden with a mulch layer, and apply well-rotted manure, compost or chopped leaves to perennials. When plants become weak due to disease or harsh environments, fertilization should be stopped. In cold regions, prepare potted plants for overwintering, drain the water from garden hoses, put them away, take back the stakes set in the ground, and throw away any that have already rotted. In the north, water deeply once with overwintering water before the plants in the ground freeze. In southern regions, if there is little rain, pay attention to keeping the compost pile moist. Now is the season in the south for planting spring-flowering bulbs and peonies.

December

Observe the garden in winter to see whether its landscape has areas that need improvement and which areas lack color. Order seeds and tidy up the place where gardening tools are stored. The above-ground parts of herbaceous perennial flowers die in winter, but the underground parts are still retained to overwinter. Remove dead grass and fallen leaves throughout the garden, which can both reduce shelter for overwintering pests and diseases and prevent fires.