How to sow Madagascar periwinkle? Sowing in spring gives a higher survival rate
Among the propagation methods for Madagascar periwinkle, there are two: seed propagation and cutting propagation. Of these, seed propagation is the more commonly used method. So how do you sow Madagascar periwinkle? What is the sowing method for Madagascar periwinkle? Let's take a look below.
I. How to sow Madagascar periwinkle

II. The sowing method for Madagascar periwinkle
1. Soil selection
When sowing Madagascar periwinkle, we first need to choose the soil. For the soil, we can choose a relatively loose leaf mold, which has good drainage and aeration and allows the Madagascar periwinkle seeds to absorb nutrients better.
2. Seed selection
Regarding how to sow Madagascar periwinkle, harvesting the seeds is a very important step, because each flower blooms at a different time, so the seeds also mature at different times and cannot be picked at random. When collecting seeds, once you notice the fruit skin beginning to turn yellow and the black seeds inside showing through, you can go ahead and collect the seeds.
3. Sowing time
The most suitable ambient temperature for Madagascar periwinkle seeds to grow is around 20-25°C, so sowing in spring is the most suitable. If sown then, the Madagascar periwinkle seeds can germinate more quickly.
4. Sowing method
As for how to sow Madagascar periwinkle, the method is actually very simple. First, we need to mix the seeds with fine sand and then scatter them evenly over the soil surface. After that, cover them with about 2cm of soil and then water. Water thoroughly in one go, and after about 7-10 days the seeds will germinate.
5. Follow-up care
Once the Madagascar periwinkle seeds have germinated, we can proceed with follow-up growing. There are also many points to note when growing them; for details, you can refer to the article on Madagascar periwinkle growing methods. I won't go into too much detail here.
Camellia Camellia japomica Camellia illustrated guide: how to grow Camellia / how to propagate Camellia
Camellia profileCamellia Camellia japomica
Aliases: Mandala tree, Souchan, Mountain camellia, Naitou, Camellia, Late camellia, Tea flower, Foreign tea
Classification: Tree flower
Family and genus: Plantae, Angiosperms, Dicotyledons, Ericales, Theaceae, Camellia
Bloom season: Spring, winter
Camellia, also known as camellia flower, is a plant in the Theaceae family, an evergreen shrub and small tree. Its ancient name is sea pomegranate. It has aliases such as Yuming flower, Naitou and mandala, and is also divided into East China camellia, Sichuan camellia and late camellia. There are extremely many camellia cultivars. It is a traditional ornamental flower of China, ranking seventh among the "Ten Famous Flowers," and is also one of the world's precious flower trees.
Camellia growing methods and precautions, introduction to Camellia
Camellia, also known as camellia flower, is a plant in the Theaceae family, an evergreen shrub and small tree. Its ancient name is sea pomegranate. It has aliases such as Yuming flower, Naitou and mandala, and is also divided into East China camellia, Sichuan camellia and late camellia. There are extremely many camellia cultivars. It is a traditional ornamental flower of China, ranking seventh among the "Ten Famous Flowers," and is also one of the world's precious flower trees.
Morphological characteristics of Camellia
Camellia is an evergreen broad-leaved shrub or small tree. The branches are yellowish brown, and the twigs are green or green-purple to purple-brown. The leaves are leathery, alternate, elliptic, long elliptic, ovate to obovate, 4-10cm long, with a gradually pointed or sharply pointed tip, a wedge-shaped to nearly semicircular base, and serrated margins. The upper surface of the leaf is dark green, mostly glossy, while the underside is lighter. The leaves are smooth and hairless, and the petioles are thick and short, with soft hairs or hairless.
The flowers are bisexual, usually solitary or 2-3 borne at the tips of branches or in leaf axils. The pedicels are extremely short or inconspicuous, with 9-10 bracts and sepals in imbricate arrangement, covered with down. The flowers are single, with 5-7 petals arranged in 1-2 imbricate whorls. The flower diameter is 5-6cm, the color is bright red, the petal tips are notched or gaped, and the bases are fused into one body and form a tube; the stamens are well developed, as many as more than 100, the filaments are white or have a red tinge, fused at the base into a tube, gathered at the flower center, and the anthers are golden yellow; the pistil develops normally, the ovary is smooth and hairless, 3-4 locular, the style is single, the stigma is 3-5 lobed, and the seed-setting rate is high. The fruit is round, with a lignified shell; when mature, the capsule can naturally split open along the dorsal suture and release the seeds.
Camellia twigs are green or green-purple to purple-brown. The flowers are bisexual, usually solitary or 2-3 borne at the tips of branches or in leaf axils. The pedicels are extremely short or inconspicuous, with 9-10 bracts and sepals in imbricate arrangement, covered with down. The flowers are single, with 5-7 petals arranged in 1-2 imbricate whorls. The flower diameter is 5-6cm, the color is bright red, the petal tips are notched or gaped, and the bases are fused into one body and form a tube.
The seeds are light brown or dark brown, nearly spherical or polygonal from pressing against each other, with flat surfaces and angular edges; the seed coat is horny and hard, the seeds are rich in oil, and the cotyledons are thick. The capsule is oblate, with hairs on the surface. Golden camellia is a small tree, 2-6m tall, with thin leathery leaves, oblong leaves, and bony small serrations or fine serrations along the margins; both surfaces are smooth, sometimes hairy. It has 7-8 petals, up to 17 in some cases, golden yellow to pale yellow, with a waxy sheen, and a flower diameter of 3-5.5 (10)cm; the ovary is mostly 3-locular, hairless or hairy. The capsule is oblate or nearly spherical.
Yunnan camellia leaves are larger than those of Camellia japonica, 6-14cm long and 3-7cm wide, with sharp serrations along the leaf margins. The flowers are also larger than those of Camellia japonica, 8-16cm in diameter, with some reaching 22cm; the ovary is 3-5 locular and densely covered with silky down. The capsule is oblate, with hairs on the surface. Golden camellia is a small tree, 2-6m tall, with thin leathery leaves, oblong leaves, and bony small serrations or fine serrations along the margins; both surfaces are smooth, sometimes hairy. It has 7-8 petals, up to 17 in some cases, golden yellow to pale yellow, with a waxy sheen, and a flower diameter of 3-5.5cm; the ovary is mostly 3-locular, hairless or hairy. The capsule is oblate or nearly spherical.
Camellia is a semi-shade tree species with a deep root system and well-developed main root. It often grows in pine-oak mixed forests or secondary shrub thickets of evergreen broad-leaved forests, and grows well in deep, organic-rich, sparsely shaded moist sites or on both sides of ravines. The bloom period of Yunnan camellia is from December to February-March of the following year, each flower lasting about 15 days from first bloom to final bloom, and the fruit ripening period is September-October.
Besides the original species, there are many horticultural cultivars of camellia. Today the number of camellia cultivars in the world has grown to more than 5,000. China has about 300 camellia cultivars, which are currently being organized and studied. Based on the petaloidy of the stamens, the natural increase in petals, the evolution of the stamens, and the petaloidy of the sepals, they are broadly divided into 3 major classes and 12 flower types:
Single class: petals arranged in 1-2 whorls, 5-7 pieces, fused at the base, mostly tubular, with pistils and stamens fully developed and able to set seed.
(1) Single type: characteristics as above.
Semi-double class: petals arranged in 3-5 whorls, around 20 pieces, with some reaching nearly 50 pieces (including petaloid stamens).
(1) Semi-double type: petals arranged in 2-4 whorls, the small petaloid stamens and most of the stamens concentrated at the flower center, most stamens tending to degenerate, occasionally able to set seed, such as 'Bai Mian Qiu', 'Xing Hong Mu Dan', etc.
(2) Five-star type: petals arranged in 2-3 whorls, the corolla in a five-star shape, stamens present, pistils tending to degenerate. Such as 'Dong Yang Cha', etc.
(3) Lotus type: petals arranged in 3-4 whorls, the corolla in a lotus shape, stamens present, pistils tending to degenerate or occasionally present. Representative cultivars include 'Shi Yang Jing', 'Hu Zhua Bai', etc.
(4) Pine-cone type: petals arranged in 3-5 whorls, in a pine-cone shape, both pistils and stamens present. 64. Songzi, 'Da Songzi' is the representative cultivar.
Double class: most stamens petaloid, petals naturally increased, with more than 50 petals (including petaloid stamens).
Ecological habits of Camellia
Camellia likes semi-shade and avoids scorching sun. It likes a warm climate, with an optimum growing temperature of 18-25°C and a starting bloom temperature of 2°C. It is slightly cold-tolerant; common cultivars can withstand low temperatures of -10°C and are heat-tolerant, but growth is inhibited above 36°C. It likes high air humidity and avoids dryness, and is suitable for growing in areas with annual precipitation above 1200mm. It likes fertile, loose, slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 5.5-6.5 being best. It flushes shoots twice a year, the first being spring shoots, beginning in March-April; summer shoots flush in July-September. The bloom period is long, 1-2 months for most cultivars, with a single flower generally lasting 7-15 days. The bloom period is February-March. Aliases: Camellia, tea flower, mandala tree, late camellia, Naitou, tan, foreign tea, Guchun, mountain camellia.
Camellia likes a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment. It fears high temperatures and avoids scorching sun. The optimum growing temperature for Camellia is 18-25°C, 13-18°C from March to September, and 10-13°C from September to March of the following year. It begins to sprout when the temperature is above 12°C, stops growing above 30°C, starts blooming at 2°C, and the suitable temperature for flower opening is 10-20°C. Cold-tolerant cultivars of Camellia can withstand -10°C for a short time, while common cultivars can withstand -3 to -4°C. When the summer temperature exceeds 35°C, leaf scorch will occur.
Camellia is suited to an environment with sufficient water and humid air, and avoids dryness. In the hot, dry summer and autumn, water or spray promptly, and an air relative humidity of 70%-80% is best. During the plum rain season, pay attention to drainage to avoid root waterlogging and rot.
Camellia is a semi-shade plant, suitable for growing under diffused light, and fears direct sunlight and scorching. Seedlings need shading. However, long-term excessive shade is unfavorable for Camellia growth, resulting in thin leaves and fewer flowers, affecting ornamental value. Adult plants need more light to favor flower bud formation and blooming.
For open-field cultivation, choose deep, loose soil with good drainage and a pH of 5-6, which is most suitable; alkaline soil is not suitable for camellia growth. For potting soil, use fertile, loose, slightly acidic loam or leaf mold.
Cultivation techniques for Camellia
Camellia can be propagated by sowing, cuttings, grafting, layering and other methods. Sowing is generally used to breed new cultivars or propagate rootstock. After the seeds mature in autumn and winter, collect them and sow immediately in a seedbed; at 18-20°C, they will germinate in 10-30 days, and cultivation requires 4-5 years before flowering. Cuttings are done from April to June, selecting one-year-old hard branches about 10-15cm long, leaving one terminal bud and one lateral bud at the upper end, with 2-3 leaves attached, and ring-barking; the lower leaves must all be removed. The cutting medium can be sandy loam or humus soil. Place the cutting pot under a shade frame, maintain a temperature of 18-20°C and a relative humidity of 80%-85%; rooting takes about 60-100 days, and new shoots can sprout the following spring. Current-year softwood cuttings can also be used, rooting in about 30 days. Horticultural cultivars of Camellia are commonly propagated by approach grafting; the rootstock can be seedlings of Camellia, oil tea and tea camellia. Locally, cuttings of the variety Camellia albiflora are often used as rootstock. The scion should preferably be 2-3-year-old branches about 30-40cm long. At the base of the approach scion and the root crown of the rootstock, each is cut with a 4-5cm incision, and then the two are joined. Approach grafting is suitable from May to June; about 100-120 days after grafting, the rootstock and scion can fully heal, and they can then be cut away from the mother plant. Air layering is done from May to October, selecting vigorous one-year-old branches, making a 1cm-wide ring bark, filling the wound with leaf mold in a plastic bag and tying it, keeping it moist; roots form in 2 months, then cut off and pot. Imbricate arrangement, covered. The flowers are single, 5-7 pieces, arranged in 1-2 imbricate whorls, 5-6cm in diameter, bright red, with notched or gaped petal tips, and the bases fused into one body forming a tube; it likes fertile, loose, slightly acidic soil with a pH of 5.5-6.5 being best. It flushes shoots twice a year, the first being spring shoots, beginning in March-April; summer shoots flush in July-September. For most cultivars 1-2 months, with a single flower generally lasting 7-15 days. The bloom period is February-March. 6-14cm long, 3-7cm wide, with sharp serrations along the leaf margins. Some flowers reach 22cm, densely covered with silky. The capsule is oblate, with hairs on the surface. With a flower diameter of 3-5.5cm, oblate or nearly spherical.
Field-planted Camellia
It is further divided into garden cultivation and nursery cultivation. For landscaping cultivation, there must be shade trees as companions; for nursery cultivation, shade trees should be planted in rows. In warm areas, autumn planting is generally better than spring planting. Fertilization must grasp three key periods, namely: apply topdressing in February-March to promote the growth of spring shoots and flower buds; apply topdressing in June to promote secondary branch growth and improve drought resistance; apply base fertilizer in October-November to improve the plant's cold resistance and lay a good foundation for new shoot growth the following spring. Cleaning the garden is one of the effective measures to control pests and diseases and strengthen tree vigor. Winter plowing can kill overwintering pests. Throughout the year, 5-6 rounds of hoeing and weeding are needed, but in the hot summer season, hoeing should be stopped to reduce soil moisture evaporation. The main pests of Camellia are: tea tussock moth, tea leaf roller, tea black citrus aphid, etc. The main diseases are: tea ring spot, camellia algal leaf spot and camellia anthracnose, etc. Control methods: remove dead branches and fallen leaves to eliminate sources of infection. Strengthen cultivation management to enhance plant disease resistance, and use chemical control.
Potted Camellia
The pot size and the seedling should be in appropriate proportion. The potting soil is best made by adding 1/2-1/3 of one-year rotted cut pine needles to garden soil. Pot in November or February-March of the following year, and never pot in the hot season. After potting, water thoroughly, and water moderately at ordinary times. The amount of watering should change with the seasons. Around Qingming, the plant enters the growth and sprouting period, and the water amount should gradually increase. After the new shoots stop growing (about late May), watering should be properly controlled to promote flower bud differentiation. June is the plum rain season, so guard against water accumulation. In the hot summer season, leaf surface evaporation is high, so leaf spraying is needed; spraying should be done in the early morning or evening, and never at noon. In winter, the plant gradually enters dormancy, and the frequency of watering should be reduced accordingly. Never water with cold water under high temperature and scorching sun, to avoid root discomfort and physiological leaf drop. On hot or windy days, leaf surface evaporation is high, so water more or spray more. When air humidity is high, reduce the amount of watering. If drought and dehydration occur, with branches and leaves wilting, immediately place the plant in a shaded place, water thoroughly, and spray the leaf surface at the same time. Generally, large-leaf, large-flower camellia types and fast-growing cultivars have high water demand and should be watered more. Precious cultivars such as 'Shi Xiang Jing', 'Yuan Feng Guan', 'Sa Jin Bao Zhu', 'Feng Xian', 'Lu Zhu Qiu', etc. have low water evaporation, and excessive watering can cause leaf drop and bud drop. In the hot summer and autumn seasons, shade and cool promptly. In winter, take anti-freezing measures. Potted plants overwinter indoors, preferably maintaining 3-4°C; if the temperature exceeds 16°C, it will promote early sprouting. The fertilization, pruning, and pest and disease control of potted camellia are basically the same as for open-field cultivation.
Propagation methods and cultivation characteristics of Camellia
Camellia likes a warm and humid climate environment, avoids scorching sun, likes semi-shaded diffused light, and is also shade-tolerant.
Fertilization method
Do not over-fertilize or apply concentrated fertilizer; this is the characteristic of Camellia not liking concentrated fertilizer, otherwise it will damage the root system and reduce the number of flowers. The base fertilizer for Camellia is best organic fertilizer, such as fermented chicken and duck manure, animal offal, soybean cake, fish bone meal, etc. These organic fertilizers contain nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other components, are relatively complete, and have long fertilizer efficiency. When applying, they can be sun-dried and crushed into powder, first mixed with 5-6 times dry soil, and then scattered 2-3cm away from the plant roots when repotting and filling the pot soil.
Camellia likes cool weather and fears high temperatures and heat. When topdressing after the beginning of spring, alum fertilizer water must be applied. To make alum fertilizer water, add 100g of green [ferrous sulfate] to 10kg of clean water, then add 200g of soybean cake powder and 1000g of dry poultry manure and soak to ferment. In hot weather, soak for 1 month; in cool weather, soak for 3-4 months until fully decomposed.
Common propagation methods
There are cuttings, grafting, and sowing.
(1)Cuttings
The suitable cutting period in the East China region is mid-to-late June. The second cutting is carried out from late August to early September. In both periods the temperature is around 30°C; with shading facilities, the temperature can be controlled at around 25°C. The cuttings should be selected from current-year semi-mature branches on the outer part of the canopy that are firm in tissue, with complete leaves, plump leaf buds and free of pests and diseases. The cutting length is generally 4-10cm, leaving 2 leaves at the tip, and the lower part should be cut with a heel. The cutting density is generally 10-14cm between rows and 3-4cm between plants, requiring the leaves to interlock without overlapping. Insert the cuttings about 3cm into the soil; shallow insertion roots quickly, deep insertion roots slowly. After insertion, spray thoroughly with water. From cutting to rooting generally takes about 30 days. "The key to survival is to maintain sufficient humidity in the early stage of cutting, take measures to reduce hot air convection, avoid direct sunlight, and pay attention to spraying the leaf surface, keeping the leaf surface often covered with a thin film of water." After rooting, gradually increase sunlight; after October, let the seedlings receive full sunlight to accelerate lignification.
(2)Grafting
For seedling rootstock bud grafting, after the seeds are sown in a sand bed and grow for about 2 months, when the seedlings reach 4-5cm tall, they can be dug up and grafted using the cleft method. Select well-growing semi-lignified branches as scions, taking them one bud and one leaf at a time from bottom to top. Cut the scion into a regular wedge shape and place it in a wet towel. Take the dug rootstock seedlings, clean off the mud and sand, then cut them off 1-1.5cm above the cotyledons, and split the stem lengthwise along the cotyledon suture line with one cut, with a depth matching the cut surface of the scion; insert the cut scion into the split of the rootstock, align the cambium on one side, and tie tightly with plastic film strips. Plant the grafted seedlings in the seedbed at a row-to-plant spacing of 8cm×2cm. The bed soil should preferably be fertile, loose sandy loam. After planting, build a plastic shed over the seedbed to keep warm; generally healing begins in 10-15 days, and after 20-25 days the film can be opened at night for ventilation. Thereafter gradually increase ventilation and appropriately increase light, and after new growth begins, remove the film entirely. For semi-mature branch grafting, use adult plants of thick camellia or oil tea as rootstock for replacement side grafting, and in 1-2 years a large plant of a famous camellia cultivar can be produced. Select healthy plants with plump buds and no pests or diseases as rootstock; for summer grafting, prune before the end of February, and for autumn grafting, prune in early-to-mid June, cutting off diseased and weak branches, drooping branches, crossing branches and overly dense branches. The suitable grafting temperature is 5-30°C. For branches with a diameter of more than 1cm, bark peeling grafting is used, that is, at a suitable part of the rootstock, make one cut each on the top, left and right, reaching the xylem, pull the bark down to a length matching the cut surface of the scion, then attach the cut scion to the peeled part of the rootstock, pull the bark up to wrap the scion, then bind it with a plastic band, exposing the bud, and then put on a plastic bag to increase humidity and promote healing. After 30 days, remove the binding; after the scion sends out new shoots and gradually lignifies, remove the tie. Cutting the rootstock is done in 3 stages: the first time, cut off the shoot tip when binding; the second time, after the first new shoot of the scion has fully lignified, cut off 1/3 of the upper part of the rootstock; the third time, after the second new shoot of the scion has fully lignified, cut off the rootstock at the graft union. When grafting in the hot season, success depends on controlling the high temperature. A shade frame must be built, covered with double-layer curtains, so that basically no direct sunlight enters the shed; spray water around noon to cool down, keeping the local temperature at around 30°C.
(3)Sowing
In early-to-mid October, place the harvested fruits in a ventilated indoor place to dry in the shade. After the capsules split and the seeds are taken out, sow immediately. If autumn sowing cannot be done immediately, store in sand until sowing in February of the following year. Before sowing, the seeds can be mixed with new high-lipid film; generally autumn sowing has a higher germination rate than spring sowing.
Commonly propagated by cuttings, grafting, layering, sowing and tissue culture.
Cutting propagation
Mid-June and around the end of August are the most suitable. Select current-year semi-mature branches from the outer part of the canopy that are firm in tissue, with complete leaves and plump leaf buds as cuttings, 8-10cm long, leaving 2 leaves at the tip. When cutting, keep a little old branch at the base if possible; after insertion, callus tissue forms easily and rooting is fast. Cut the cuttings in the early morning and insert them immediately after cutting, inserting about 3cm into the medium. When cutting, the leaves are required to interlock, and after insertion press firm with fingers. Shallow insertion is better, as it allows aeration and faster healing and rooting. The cutting bed needs shading; spray the leaf surface daily to keep it moist, and maintain the temperature at 20-25°C. About 3 weeks after insertion, healing begins, and rooting occurs after 6 weeks. When the roots are 3-4cm long, transplant into pots. When cutting, dip the base of the cuttings in 0.4%-0.5% indolebutyric acid solution for 2-5 seconds, which has a clear effect of promoting rooting.
Grafting propagation
Often used for cultivars that are difficult to root from cuttings or have few propagation materials. Grafting from May to June, when the new shoots have become semi-lignified, gives the highest survival rate, and after successful grafting, buds sprout and shoots grow quickly. The rootstock is mainly oil tea; collect seeds in October, store in sand in winter, sow in early April of the following year, and when the seedlings grow to 4-5cm, they can be used for grafting. Use the softwood cleft grafting method: use a blade to cut off the embryo bud part of the bud rootstock, make a vertical cut upward along the pith at the center of the cross-section of the hypocotyl, then take one node of camellia scion, also cut the base below the node into a regular wedge shape, immediately insert the cut scion into the bottom of the rootstock split, align the cambium on both sides, bind with cotton thread, and put on a clean plastic bag. After about 40 days, remove the bag; only after about 60 days will it sprout and send out shoots.
Layering propagation
In the plum rain season, select vigorous one-year-old branches, make a ring bark 20cm from the tip, 1cm wide, wrap with leaf mold and then cover with plastic film; roots form after about 60 days. Cut off and pot directly, with a high survival rate.
Seed propagation
Suitable for single or semi-double cultivars. The seeds mature in mid-October and can be sown immediately. Shallow sowing is better, using vermiculite as the medium, covering 6mm, at room temperature 21°C, with 10 hours of light each night, which can promote seed germination. Germination begins 15 days after sowing, and within 30 days the seedlings reach 8cm tall; transplant when the seedlings have 2-3 leaves.
Tissue culture propagation
The explants are commonly seedlings; after routine disinfection, cut into 1cm lengths and inoculate on MS medium supplemented with kinetin 1mg/L, 6-benzylaminopurine 1mg/L and indoleacetic acid 0.1mg/L. After 4 weeks of culture, only callus tissue forms, without shoots. After transfer to new medium, a single 4cm shoot begins to form, then soak in 0.5mg/L indolebutyric acid solution for 20 minutes, then transfer to 1/2 MS medium, and roots grow after 4 weeks. After growing for 8 weeks on the rooting medium, transplant the seedlings into pots filled with perlite and peat.
Disease control of Camellia
There are camellia anthracnose and camellia leaf blister blight; common pests include red spider mites and scale insects.
When Camellia is cultivated indoors or in greenhouses, if ventilation is poor, it is susceptible to red spider mites and scale insects. It can be controlled by spraying with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution, or washed clean. In the plum rain season, air humidity is high, and anthracnose damage often occurs. It can be controlled by spraying with equal-strength Bordeaux mixture or 25% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution.
Semicircular or irregular brown lesions appear at the leaf tip or leaf margin of Camellia, with massive leaf drop, and even death of the whole plant. This is caused by fungal infection. Common ones include: brown spot disease, which in the early stage forms many small brown spots on the upper surface of the leaf, then gradually expands into semicircular, circular or irregular large brown spots, and finally turns silvery gray, with many small black grains arranged in rings or scattered, and a clear boundary between the lesion and normal tissue. Red spot disease, in the early stage, is light brown small spots, then expands to form circular or irregular reddish-brown lesions, but there are no small grains on the lesions; the lesion margin is slightly raised, darker in color, with a clear boundary from normal tissue. This disease occurs in the Jiangsu, Zhejiang area and in Yunnan, Sichuan, Hunan and other places. In severe cases, a large number of leaves fall off, and even the whole plant dies.
In addition, there is camellia anthracnose caused by anthracnose fungi, which also mostly occurs at the leaf margin. The shape and color of the lesions are basically similar to the leaf spot disease caused by the above-mentioned leaf spot fungi, but the typical symptom unique to anthracnose is that the lesion produces pale red sticky matter when humidity is relatively high, which distinguishes it from other lesions. There are also fungi that infect the leaf surface, young leaves and young shoots of Camellia, but the location, shape and color of the lesions are obviously different; the control methods are the same. The above diseases are mainly caused by fungal infection when the disease resistance of the Camellia plant decreases under high temperature and high humidity, and can also occur at low temperature and rainy conditions or high temperature and dry conditions, as well as on wounds of plants with poor ventilation or sunscald spots. They generally occur easily in summer and autumn.
Strengthen management and careful maintenance to enhance plant disease resistance and reduce chances of infection. For example, appropriately increase the distance between plants and rows to maintain good ventilation; frequently weed, loosen the soil, and drain accumulated water; the soil should be acidic (pH around 6), loose, and have good drainage; at ordinary times, water when dry and withhold when wet, and never apply excessive nitrogen fertilizer; in midsummer, pay attention to shading to prevent sunscald, and avoid damaging leaves during management operations.
Chemical control: during the growing period of Camellia, spray once every half month for prevention. Once diseased leaves are found, remove them immediately and burn them in a centralized manner to reduce sources of infection. For affected plants, suspend fertilization (especially nitrogen fertilizer), drain accumulated water promptly, keep the pot soil appropriately on the dry side, and pay attention to ventilation. At the same time, spray the leaf surface with chemicals. Commonly used control chemicals include: 65% zineb wettable powder at 800 times dilution; 50% tecloftalam wettable powder at 800-1000 times dilution; 75% chlorothalonil and 50% carbendazim at 500-800 times dilution; 70% thiophanate at 800-1000 times dilution, etc., all have good control effects. Spray the leaf surface once every two weeks, wetting the entire leaf surface, for three consecutive times, preferably in the evening. Note that when using zineb, avoid mixing with other alkaline pesticides.
The reason for poor chemical effect also lies in frequently using one chemical for control; over time, the pathogen will develop a certain resistance, and the efficacy will become less obvious. Other chemicals can be appropriately substituted, or chemicals can be used alternately or mixed, and the plant's ecological environment should be improved in time. In addition, improper concentration, timing and method of application will also reduce the fungicidal effect.
Common spring flower pests and diseases
In spring, the temperature turns warm then cold again, and air humidity is high. The occurrence of crop pests and diseases is at a moderate-to-severe level, and flowers also have more pests and diseases. Generally, the following are more serious in April-May:
Aphids: Hibiscus, ornamental peach, Chinese hibiscus, Chinese rose, honeysuckle, etc. are all susceptible to aphid damage. As the temperature rises, aphids also increase day by day. Control methods: 1. Spray with 40% omethoate or 50% phosmet mixed with water at 1200-1500 times dilution. 2. For a small number of potted flowers, you can also spray with neutral washing powder liquid at 70-100 times dilution.
Red spider mites: They begin to damage jasmine, Chinese hibiscus, Asparagus fern, Chinese rose, dahlia, etc. from early April. Control methods: 1. Spray with 1000 times dilution of speed-kill. 2. For a small number of potted flowers, frequently rinse the upper and lower leaf surfaces with tap water, or spray or dip with boiled and cooled 100-150 times flour paste water, then rinse once with clean water a day or two later, which can achieve obvious results.
Scale insects (flower lice): Scale insects on white magnolia, Chinese rose, boxwood, and Pittosporum mostly begin to hatch from mid-April to mid-to-late May. Control methods: 1. Before hatching, gently brush off the insects by hand. 2. During the larval hatching period, spray with 40% omethoate at 1000-1500 times dilution.
Damping-off: When the temperature reaches 20°C, newly sown flowers, saplings, and some flowers prone to root rot are highly susceptible to damping-off when soil moisture is high. Control methods: 1. Before sowing, evenly mix 1.5-4kg of 70% quintozene per mu into the soil. 2. Control watering at the seedling stage, and do not let the soil become too wet. 3. At the early stage of disease, irrigate with 1% ferrous sulfate or 200-400 times dilution of 50% amobam solution, applying 2-4kg of solution per square meter.
Rust: Rose rust infects roses when the buds are about to open. Control methods: 1. When roses sprout, promptly remove and burn the yellow diseased buds that sprout first, to eliminate sources of infection. 2. Spray with 15% triadimefon at 700-1000 times dilution during the early infection period.
Powdery mildew: Chinese rose powdery mildew and impatiens powdery mildew mostly occur in May-June, and in summer can easily cause symptoms such as yellow leaves, withered leaves, and curved young shoots. Control methods: 1. Pay attention to ventilation and light transmission for the flowers. 2. Apply less nitrogen fertilizer and more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. 3. Spray once with 15% triadimefon at 700-1000 times dilution at the early infection stage.
Identifying flower pests and diseases
Flower diseases are generally divided into two categories: physiological diseases and parasitic diseases. Physiological diseases are mainly caused by unsuitable conditions such as climate and soil. Common physiological diseases include: scorch caused by strong light in summer; freezing damage caused by low temperature in winter; root rot caused by excessive water; leaf edge scorch and wilting caused by insufficient water; deficiency symptoms due to lack of certain nutrient elements in the soil, etc. Parasitic diseases are caused by fungi, bacteria, viruses, nematodes, etc. infecting flowers. These organisms have different forms, but most have parasitic and pathogenic abilities and relatively strong reproductive capacity. They can spread from infected plants to healthy plants through various routes (stomata, wounds, insects, wind, rain, etc.), and under suitable environmental conditions grow, develop, reproduce, and spread, repeating the cycle and gradually expanding. Therefore, this type of disease causes the greatest harm to flowers. Fungi: Fungi are lower organisms with true nuclei and no chlorophyll. They use mycelium as the vegetative body and reproduce by spores, and are the most important category among flower diseases. Most fungal diseases have obvious disease signs, such as mold-like substances, powdery substances, rust-like substances, dot-like substances, filamentous substances, etc. These features are one of the main bases for identifying fungal diseases. Common fungal diseases include powdery mildew, anthracnose, etc. Bacteria: Bacteria are a type of single-celled prokaryotic organism that reproduce by division. The characteristics of bacterial diseases are mainly water-soaked appearance of the affected tissue or translucent lesions, as well as bacterial slime overflowing from the diseased part under humid conditions, showing an "ooze" phenomenon, which is one of the main bases for identifying bacterial diseases. Common bacterial diseases include iris bacterial soft rot, etc. Viruses: Viruses are extremely tiny parasites. Their morphology can only be observed with an electron microscope. They parasitize within the living cell tissues of flowers and can travel with the host sap flow within the flower body, spreading to the whole plant and causing whole-plant disease. Viral diseases often show symptoms such as mosaic, yellowing, deformity, and ring spots. Common viral diseases include narcissus viral disease, etc. Nematodes: Nematodes belong to a class of lower animals. Nematodes are slender, slightly pointed at both ends, generally 1-2mm long, like an ascarid. A few nematode female adults are spherical or pear-shaped. They mostly live in the soil and parasitize flower roots, stimulating the local cells of the host to proliferate and form gall-like structures. Common nematode diseases include cyclamen root-knot nematode disease, etc.
Cultivar classification of Camellia (1) The 3 major classes of Camellia:
1. Single class
2. Semi-double class
3. Double class
(2) The 12 types of Camellia:
1. The single class is divided into: single type;
2. The semi-double class is divided into: semi-double type, five-star type, lotus type, pine-cone type;
3. The double class is divided into: anemone type, chrysanthemum type, hibiscus type, crown type, hydrangea type, radiate type, rose type.
There are about 2000 camellia cultivars, which can be divided into 3 major classes and 12 flower types. The Compendium of Materia Medica says: "The camellia's leaves resemble tea, and can also be made into a drink, hence the name."
The Flower Mirror records nineteen camellia cultivars: agate camellia, crane-top red, jewel camellia, banana-calyx white jewel, Yang Guifei camellia, Zhengong pink, pomegranate camellia, Yinian red, Zhaodian red, late camellia, southern camellia, etc. Camellia has many flower forms, including single, semi-double, double, curved-petal, five-star petal, hexagonal, pine-shell type, etc. The flowers come in red, yellow, white, pink, and even white petals with red dots:
Single class: petals in 1-2 whorls, 5-7 pieces, fused at the base, mostly tubular, seed-setting. Under it there is only 1 type, namely the single type.
Semi-double class: petals in 3-5 whorls, around 20 pieces, with some nearly 50 pieces. It is divided into 4 types, namely semi-double type, five-star type, lotus type, pine-cone type. 3. Double class: most stamens petaloid, petals naturally increased, with more than 50 petals. It is divided into 7 types, namely anemone type, chrysanthemum type, hibiscus type, crown type, hydrangea type, radiate type, rose type.
Common cultivars include the single class 'Chenxi', with ruffled petals, pure white; 'Sai Jinguang', white flowers marked with peach-red lines and sprinkled with fine dots; 'Da Hua Jin Xin', with large red flowers, 6-7cm in flower diameter.
The semi-double class includes 'Sai Luoyang', red flowers with white blotches; 'Da Songzi', dark red flowers; 'Zui Yangfei', pink flowers; 'Xing Tao Mudan', peach-red flowers.
The double class includes 'Bai Baozhu', pure white flowers; 'Hong Fufeng', oleander-red flowers; 'Hua Fufeng', white flowers with red lines; 'Hua Baozhu', pink flowers with irregular red stripes; 'Wu He Peng Qiu', bright red flowers; 'Hua Foding', bright red flowers with a small amount of white blotches; 'Hong Shiba Xueshi', red flowers; 'Chi Dan', bright red flowers; 'Hua Heling', light red flowers with white spots.
Cultivars bred abroad include:
Adolphe Audusson, large flowers, dark red, double. Alba Plena, large flowers, white, double.
Berenica Boddy, light pink flowers, semi-double, strongly cold-tolerant.
Debutante, large flowers, peony type, light pink.
Donckelarii, red flowers with white marble stripes, semi-double.
Elegans, large flowers, anemone type, rose-red with white spots. Finlandia, light pink flowers, semi-double.
Glen 40, large flowers, dark red, double.
Herme, pink flowers with irregular white edges and deep pink stripes, semi-double.
Kumasaka, rose type, rose-red.
Magnoliaeflora, light red flowers, semi-double.
Mathotiana: large flowers, hybrid tea type, deep red, double.
Purity: white flowers, hybrid tea type, double.
Among hybrid camellias there is Donation: large flowers, pink, semi-double.
Fragrant Pink: small flowers, peony type, deep pink, very fragrant.
Distribution areas of camellias
Camellias originated in the Himalayan region, Chongqing, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Sichuan and Shandong; they are also distributed in Japan and the Korean Peninsula, and are especially abundant in Yunnan. Later, camellias were introduced to Europe and America and became one of the world's well-known flowers.
There are already more than 306 camellia cultivars in China. In Zhejiang, Fujian, Jiangsu and other places, mass production has begun. It has become a major potted ornamental flowering plant on the flower market in winter.
Camellias originated in China. Wild camellias are distributed under the forest canopy in the mountain valleys and ravines of Chongqing, Zhejiang, Jiangxi and Sichuan, as well as in Laoshan in Shandong Province and on coastal islands. In Zhejiang Province, between Ningbo and the Siming Mountains, there are also patches of wild camellias. In the south of Zhejiang Province, in the cracks of the rocks at 380 m above sea level at Baoyan, Huacheng Cave, Daluo Mountain, Rui'an County, Wenzhou, an ancient camellia tree more than 1,200 years old is still preserved. In Chongqing, Lichuan in Jiangxi and Mount Emei in Sichuan, there are natural distributions of ancient wild camellia trees over 1,000 years old growing in forests.
As for the cultivation distribution of camellias, the open-field planting areas are mainly in the Yangtze River basin. In China, apart from parts of the Northeast, Northwest and North China where the climate is too cold for planting, they are planted in gardens almost everywhere across China. However, large-scale open-field cultivation is mostly found in Chongqing, Zhejiang, Fujian, Sichuan, Hunan, Jiangxi and Anhui provinces. Yunnan camellia is a specialty of Yunnan, originating from Tengchong in southwestern Yunnan. It has a widespread open-field cultivation distribution within Yunnan Province. After Liberation, Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou and other places introduced and planted it, but mostly under greenhouse cultivation. In 1824, Yunnan camellia was first introduced to Europe. Golden camellias mostly originate in Guangxi, China; northern Vietnam has only 4 species, and they have also been found in Yunnan.
The role and uses of camellias: ornamental value
The family Theaceae, genus Camellia, has about 220 or more species, among which Camellia japonica, Yunnan camellia, Camellia sasanqua and the newly discovered golden camellia in China are all important ornamental flowering plants.
Camellia is an evergreen flowering plant that blooms at the turn of winter and spring, with graceful flowers and brilliant colors. Comrade Guo Moruo praised it highly: "A camellia tree blooms early like peach red, a hundred crimson clouds proudly standing in the midst." Guo Lao also wrote a poem praising Yunnan camellia: "It is famously said the camellia is the provincial flower; only today do I see the city filled with rosy clouds; everyone says the peony is fine, but I say the peony is not the equal of the camellia."
The dietary therapy or medicinal value of camellias
The medical information and health dietary therapy information on Hugarden.com is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health problem should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and the treatment of any disease should follow a doctor's advice.
Ultimate flower-protecting mission: To love yourself, start from reality and strictly follow a doctor's advice. Toward illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope; face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and care for the flower field in your heart with care.
Brief introduction to the medicinal material
[Alias] Camellia flower.
[Source] It is the plant Camellia japonica L. of the family Theaceae, genus Camellia, with its roots and flowers used as medicine. The roots can be collected throughout the year; the flowers are collected in spring and winter, sun-dried or oven-dried.
Camellia, also known as camellia flower, is a plant of the family Theaceae, genus Camellia. The camellia flower is full and graceful, dignified and elegant, and is one of China's traditional top ten famous flowers. It is also one of the world's famous flowers.
Camellia is an evergreen shrub of the family Theaceae. It belongs to the family Theaceae; it is an evergreen shrub or small tree, reaching a height of 3-4 m. The trunk is smooth and hairless. The leaves are ovate or elliptic, with fine serrations along the edges, leathery, and bright green on the surface. The flowers are solitary or paired, growing in the leaf axils or at the tips of branches; the petals are nearly round, and in double-flowered varieties the petals can reach 50-60 pieces. The flower colors include red, white, yellow, purple and ink-black, all very brilliant. The flowering period varies with the variety, withflowers opening from October to April of the following year. The capsule is round and ripens in late autumn, but most double flowers cannot bear fruit. Camellia has the proud plum-like character of "only the camellia is especially enduring, alone able to occupy the spring wind in the deep months," and also the peony-surpassing brilliance of "abundant flowers brilliantly red, deeply surpassing the morning glow." Therefore, since ancient times it has been a very famous woody flowering plant, reaching its peak in the Tang and Song dynasties, and after being introduced to Europe in the 17th century it caused a sensation, thus earning the reputation of a "world-famous flower." It likes a cool and humid climate and cannot tolerate high temperatures. It is not demanding about soil, but sandy soil with high moisture content is more suitable; full sun and half sun are both suitable. The fruit is a capsule, large with a thick skin, containing 1-2 or more than 2 seeds.
Medicinal nature and flavor: pungent, bitter, cold.
"Bencao Jingshu": sweet and slightly pungent in flavor, neutral and slightly cold in nature.
"Bencao Fengyuan": bitter, warm, non-toxic.
"Baicao Jing": astringent in flavor.
Medicinal meridian entry:Liver; Lung meridians.
"Bencao Zaixin": enters the two meridians of the liver and lungs.
"Bencao Cuoyao": enters the foot jueyin and hand yangming meridians.
Functions and indications
Astringes and cools the blood, stops bleeding. Used for hematemesis, epistaxis, hemafecia and metrorrhagia; externally for burns and scalds and traumatic bleeding.
"Gangmu": For burns and scalds, grind into powder, mix with sesame oil and apply.
"Yilin Zuanyao": Nourishes the liver and soothes the liver, breaks blood stasis and removes heat.
"Baicao Jing": Cools the blood, breaks blood stasis and stops bleeding. Disperses carbuncles and swellings, treats falls and blows, stops chronic dysentery, intestinal wind with bloody stool, metrorrhagia and bloody strangury, epistaxis and hematemesis; externally applied for moxibustion sores.
"Bencao Zaixin": Treats blood disorders, regulates intestinal wind, clears liver fire, moistens the lungs and nourishes yin.
Applied supplementary formulas
To treat hematemesis and cough: 1. Baozhu camellia, roasted black on a tile, mixed with red granulated sugar, taken daily in unrestricted amounts. 2. Ten Baozhu camellia flowers, 5 qian of safflower, 1 liang of bletilla, 4 liang of red dates. Decoct in water to one bowl and take; take the dregs again, and the red dates may also be eaten at any time. (Wang Diangui, "Bubing Liangfang")
To treat red dysentery: Large red Baozhu camellia flowers, dried in the shade and ground into powder, mixed evenly with white sugar, steamed three or four times over a rice pot and taken. ("Jiusheng Kuhai")
To treat hemorrhoidal bleeding: Baozhu camellia, ground into powder and taken with water. ("Gangmu Shiyi")
To treat nipples splitting and about to fall off with abnormal pain: Baozhu camellia, roasted and ground into powder, mixed with sesame oil and applied. ("Gangmu Shiyi")
[Usage and dosage] 10-15 grams. External use in an appropriate amount, ground into powder, mixed with sesame oil and applied.
[Excerpt] "Quanguo Zhongcaoyao Huibian," "Gangmu."
The cultural background of camellias: cultivation history
Camellias originated in China. In the early 7th century AD, Japan introduced camellias from China, and by the early 15th century it introduced large quantities of Chinese camellia cultivars. In 1739 Britain first introduced Chinese camellias, and afterward camellias spread to European and American countries. To this day, countries such as the United States, Britain, Japan, Australia and Italy have developed rapidly in the breeding, propagation and production of camellias and have entered the stage of industrialized production, with interspecific hybrids, intervarietal hybrids and new cultivars continuously coming onto the market.
China has a long history of cultivating camellias. Camellia cultivation has existed since the Southern Dynasties. In the Tang Dynasty camellias were cultivated as precious flowering plants. By the Song Dynasty, camellia cultivation was already very popular. In the Southern Song Dynasty, camellias from Wenzhou were introduced to Hangzhou and developed rapidly. In the Ming Dynasty, "Huashi" described and classified camellia cultivars. By the Qing Dynasty, camellia cultivation was even more flourishing, and camellia cultivars continuously appeared. Since 1949, China's camellia cultivation level has improved to a certain extent, and cultivar selection and breeding have further developed. There are already more than 300 camellia cultivars in China.
Beautiful legend
It is said that there was a woman named Dabu. She was very hardworking and kind, but had always been alone, working from early morning until late at night. She had food and clothing, and lived a comfortable life.
Her greatest hobby was loving flowers and plants. Inside and outside her courtyard, she planted many flowers and plants. Whenever she had free time, she watered the flowers and plants, hoed the weeds and caught insects. Red, white, yellow and purple, there was nothing she did not have; spring, summer, autumn and winter, there were always flowers in bloom. They vied in splendor and beauty, a riot of color, with delicate fragrance striking the nose and refreshing the heart. But there was not one she especially liked. She always wanted to find the one flower she loved most and plant it in the center of her courtyard. She searched everywhere, looking over all the mountains and ridges, but the flower she loved most was still nowhere to be found.
One day, Dabu went to the Kuige Longtan to carry water for watering the flowers. When she reached the edge of the dragon pool, she saw a flower with nine stamens and eighteen petals reflected on the water surface, its colors extremely brilliant, and she was stunned by the sight. After looking for a while, she raised her head and looked around, but did not find any such flower on the water surface, so she filled her container with water and carried it home on her back. Going out the door she thought of that flower, coming in the door she thought of that flower again; with her eyes open she thought of that flower, with her eyes closed she also thought of that flower! Thinking and thinking, within a few days she fell ill, eating and drinking nothing, lying in bed all day. What illness had she contracted? She did not know either. Many doctors came to treat her, but none could cure her illness. Her illness grew worse day by day! Who knows how many days she was ill, but Dabu was close to death.
At the critical moment, a beautiful girl stepped across the threshold, came to Dabu's bedside, and sweetly called her Ama, saying she had come to treat her illness. Dabu opened her eyes and saw that the flowers inserted in the girl's hair and hung on her chest were exactly the same as the kind she had seen on the water surface. Without taking a single pill, she recovered! Dabu suddenly sat up, jumped out of bed with a thud, and without blinking looked at the girl. The girl's smiling face was also just like the kind of flower she had seen.
Dabu asked the girl what flower she was wearing, and she said it was a camellia; when asked whether she had any flower seedlings, she gave Dabu one plant.
After the girl left, Dabu took a hoe and planted the camellia in the center of her courtyard. Dabu watered the camellia every day, fertilized it every month, and hoed the weeds around it every season, as carefully and thoughtfully as raising a nursing baby. Within a few years, the camellia tree grew up and bloomed. That camellia tree had a vigorous and graceful form, with green leaves that did not wither through the four seasons; each flower was as large as a peony, as brilliant as rosy clouds, graceful in bearing and dazzling in radiance! What was even stranger was that when that camellia was in full bloom, the people of the surrounding villages, when drawing water in golden basins, could see the camellia's reflection; when going to the edge of the dragon pool to carry water, they could also see the camellia's beautiful image on the water surface.
Who knows how many years passed, but Dabu died. It is said that the girl who gave the camellia to Dabu was the camellia fairy from heaven! In order to commemorate the camellia fairy and also to commemorate Dabu, a temple was built at the place where the camellia was planted, named the Camellia Temple. During the late Qing period, the Camellia Temple was destroyed, but the legend about the camellia is still told to this day!
Camellias brave the wind and snow and do not fear harsh environments, and can bloom for a long time without fading in the severe winter. The fighting people all praise it as the flower of victory.
Camellia is called the flower of victory, and there is another legend: Wu Sangui, a chief general under Chongzhen, the last emperor of the Ming Dynasty, guarded Shanhaiguan. Li Zicheng's peasant rebel army captured Beijing, and Emperor Chongzhen hanged himself on Coal Hill. Wu Sangui surrendered to the Qing army, and moreover brought in the Qing army, suppressed the peasant rebel army, served as vanguard, killed the Ming Prince of Gui, and the Qing enfeoffed him as Prince of Pingxi, guarding Yunnan. In Yunnan, Wu Sangui acted tyrannically, built a palace on Wuhua Mountain, constructed Axiang Garden, and issued an order for all parts of Yunnan to present rare flowers and exotic plants. In Luliang County there was a camellia at Puji Temple, more than two zhang tall, with flowers having nine stamens and eighteen petals and overflowing rich fragrance, a rare treasure of the world. When the Luliang County magistrate saw the decree, he went to Puji Temple and forced the residents near the temple to dig up the camellia tree. The villagers refused to obey, until it grew dark. No one raised a spade to act. That night, an elderly man of high prestige in the village saw a beautiful girl walk over, holding a blooming camellia in her hand, and say to the old man: "The villagers love me and cultivate me; my flowers open only for the villagers. Wu Sangui need not think of seeing even a glance of me. You cannot keep me here, and insisting on defying the order will make the common people suffer. Better to let that county magistrate send me away; I have my own way to deal with them, and I will certainly return in victory." The old man reached out to grasp the girl's hand, and woke with a start; it had been a dream.
The next day the old man told the villagers about the dream. Everyone thought it was the camellia fairy sending a dream, so they would do as she said! The county magistrate personally escorted the villagers in sending the camellia tree to Wu Sangui's Axiang Garden, but who would have thought that as soon as the camellia tree was set down, there was a "hua" sound, and all the leaves of the camellia tree fell off. Wu Sangui was furious and blamed the county magistrate for not protecting it properly along the way. A counselor said: "Being exposed to the sun all the way, this often happens; once planted it can still survive." When spring came, the camellia tree grew a full set of leaves, but simply did not bloom. Wu Sangui lashed the camellia tree with a whip, leaving a scar. In the spring of the second year, Wu Sangui brought his many concubines to Axiang Garden to view the flowers, and saw that the camellia had only a few thin, small flowers. Wu Sangui said angrily: "What kind of world-famous flower is this!" He raised his whip and lashed again, leaving a second scar on the camellia trunk. In the spring of the third year, Wu Sangui saw that the garden was withered and desolate, with no flowers blooming at all, and on the camellia tree perched a crow, cawing straight at him. Wu Sangui's anger flared, and he swung his whip at the camellia tree again, and from the second scar oozed fresh blood. Wu Sangui ordered the gardener seized and punished. To save the gardener, the camellia fairy, disregarding her own pain, came into Wu Sangui's dream and sang: Sangui, Sangui, do not stay intoxicated; blame not the flower king, blame your own muddled folly. I am but a common woman, seeking no wealth or honor, only wishing to return home and pass my poor years. Wu Sangui raised his precious sword and slashed at the camellia fairy. With a "kacha" sound, the precious sword struck the nine-dragon chair and cut off a bloody dragon head. The camellia fairy gave a cold laugh and sang again: A base and lowly soul, a stinking reputation. Betraying your lord for glory, a fox among dogs! In vain you build palaces and gardens, staining the throne with blood. Heaven is angry and people resentful; disaster will surely fall. Hearing this, Wu Sangui broke out in a cold sweat of fear, and sought out a counselor who interpreted dreams to ask about good and ill fortune. The counselor said: "The ancients said that fortune is what misfortune leans on, and misfortune is what fortune hides within. The camellia tree is a lowly species; entering the palace brings misfortune, leaving the palace brings fortune. Better to banish it back to its original home, to escape misfortune and obtain fortune." Wu Sangui thought this reasonable, and so sent the camellia tree back to Luliang.
When the camellia tree returned to the village, men and women, old and young, all came out to welcome it. Everyone touched the whip scars on the trunk, mixed feelings of sorrow and joy welling up, and shed excited tears. That night, the villagers had the same dream: the camellia fairy said to everyone: "In struggling against the enemy, one must be patient and resilient. Though I am covered in wounds, I have finally returned; I am the victor." From then on, in Yunnan the camellia has been called the flower of victory, and the blooming of the camellia always displays people's joy in the victory of their struggles.
Related poetry and prose: Camellia at Shaobo Fanxing Temple
(Song Dynasty) Su Shi
Facing the camellia, who planted it I do not know; in fine rain with no one else, I come alone.
I tell you of it but you do not understand; brilliant red like fire, it blooms amid the snow.
Camellia
(Southern Song Dynasty) Lu You
In the east garden three days of rain and wind; peach and plum blossoms scatter and are swept empty to the ground.
Only the camellia is especially enduring; in the green thicket it puts forth several more branches of red.
Camellia
(Tang and Five Dynasties) Guan Xiu
Trimmed by wind and dyed by sun, it opens in the immortal garden; the colors of a hundred flowers die, and the orangutan-blood hue is unmatched.
This morning a single blossom fell before the steps; surely there are onlookers who will resent Sun Xiu.
Kaiyuan Temple formerly had no flowers; this year they bloom abundantly
(Song Dynasty) Su Shi
Beneath the ever-burning lamp and the stone railing, together with pines and firs it keeps the cold of the year.
Thick leaves with edges, sturdy as rhinoceros armor; deep flowers with modest bearing, red as a crane's head.
Long having kept company with the abbot's mandarava rain, ashamed to face the master's alfalfa plate.
Blooming so fully in Zhili, one knows there is meaning; when they open next year, who will watch them then?
White Camellia
(Ming Dynasty) Shen Zhou
Rhinoceros-armor leaves bear the cold, heavy and blue-green; where the jade cup is held aloft, the dew is rich and bright.
When might one borrow the wine of longevity and eternal spring? I fear only the camellia fairy will not allow it.
Camellia
(Qing Dynasty) Liu Hao
Braving the cold, it strives to rival the elegance of pine and bamboo; putting forth brilliance, it startles in vain as the years pass.
Through the swirling ice and snow its true nature remains; its roots and trunk grow old, rare in all the gardens.
November Camellia
(Tang Dynasty) Bai Juyi
As if with heavy makeup emerging from crimson gauze, a trail of flowing light reflects the morning glow.
Sending fragrance and beauty, how much spring does it bring; like a true red flower of enduring bloom.
The flower language of camellia
Ideal love - modesty
Type: Theaceae
Origin: China
Flower color: peach red, red, white
Flowering period: late autumn to winter
Alias: Hime tsubaki
Camellia was named by a German botanist and spread throughout the world.
It always blooms quietly in the courtyard when the weather turns slightly cool in late autumn. Unlike the tree peony, the camellia does not drop its whole flower at once; instead, its petals wither one by one, slowly, until life ends. Is not such a careful way of withering just like people's attitude in pursuing an ideal partner? So gradually the camellia became the spokesperson for expressing feelings to the woman one secretly admires. In the winter, when almost all flowers have withered, the red camellia seems especially warm and full of life. Moreover, planted in a courtyard it can also let people enjoy her faint floral fragrance. Lovable, modest, ideal love, cautious, magnificent charm
Camellia (white): pure and innocent
Camellia (red): naturally beautiful
White camellia (Camellia): reserved
Flower divination: You are a gentle and emotional person, and moreover have a strong willpower. Your heart hides passion and longs for love. Even so, you will not take a rash attitude in confessing to the other person; after you have set your sights on the target, you will pursue the other person step by step, and then your inner passion will slowly be drawn out.
Flower motto: Never be in a hurry to marry; wait until love has ripened.
Camellia pictures
Care measures for the southern plant date palm
Part One: "Organization of Southern Plants"
Frangipani
Frangipani, its flowers really resemble eggs, milky white on the outside and bright yellow in the center, just like the white and yolk of an egg, and they grow very cute. Its branches are thick and fleshy. The leaves are also large, and the flowers and leaves cluster at the tips of the branches. Frangipani blooms brilliantly in summer, giving people a feeling of purity and elegant temperament, and it is very suitable for people to observe carefully. After the leaves fall, the bare trunk curves naturally, and its form is quite beautiful. It is very suitable for planting in courtyards and on lawns. Frangipani likes a high-temperature, high-humidity, sunny and well-drained environment. It is naturally robust and can tolerate drought, but it fears cold and waterlogging. It likes to grow in acidic soil, but is also resistant to alkalinity. For cultivation, deep, fertile, well-aerated, organic-rich acidic sandy loam is best. Propagation uses the cutting method. When planting frangipani, attention must also be paid to pest and disease control; for example, if brownish small spots appear on the leaves or even the leaves turn dark black, that is frangipani angular leaf spot, and at this time you must pay attention and take measures. Of course there may also be other diseases, so frangipani needs your care and nursing. In fact, besides the white kind, frangipani also has red and yellow kinds, all of which can be used to extract essential oils for making high-grade cosmetics, soaps and food additives, with quite high prices and great commercial development potential; the fresh flowers can also be dried for making tea, commonly known as frangipani tea, which has the effects of treating heat dysentery, moistening the lungs and detoxifying. The frangipani tree has a beautiful form, with many branches on the stem, in strange shapes and countless variations; the leaves resemble loquat leaves, and after they fall in winter, semicircular leaf scars remain on the branch tips, rather like antlers adorned with beautiful spots, making it truly the preferred small tree masterpiece for tropical landscaping, courtyard arrangement and potted appreciation. The bark is thin and gray-green, rich in toxic white sap, which can be used for external application to treat scabies, redness and swelling and other conditions. The wood is white, light and soft, and can be used to make musical instruments, tableware or furniture. Frangipani flower language: nurturing hope, resurrection, new life, as simple and ordinary as life itself, so it can always be so close to people, losing all distance.
Magnolia
Magnolia is a tall deciduous tree, with dark gray bark, rough and cracked; the twigs are somewhat stout, gray-brown; the winter buds and flower stalks are densely covered with pale gray-yellow long silky hairs. The leaves are papery, obovate, broadly obovate or obovate-elliptic, with the base of vigorous shoots having elliptic leaves. Magnolia flowers are very like lotus flowers; when in full bloom, the petals spread out in all directions, making the courtyard sheets of blue-white, with dazzling white light, possessing high ornamental value; combined with waves of delicate fragrance that refresh the heart and mind, it is truly an ideal flower form for beautifying courtyards. Magnolia likes light and is relatively cold-tolerant, and can overwinter in the open field. It loves dryness and avoids low humidity; waterlogged planting sites easily cause root rot. It likes fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic sandy soil, and can also grow in weakly alkaline soil. In the warmer south, it can bloom from December to January of the following year. Magnolia flowers have strong resistance to harmful gases. If this flower is planted in factories polluted by sulfur dioxide and chlorine gas, it has a certain resistance and sulfur-absorbing capacity. When artificially fumigated with sulfur dioxide, 1 kg of dry leaves can absorb more than 1.6 grams of sulfur. Therefore, magnolia is a very good pollution-resistant landscaping tree species for areas with atmospheric pollution. Magnolia likes light; young trees are relatively shade-tolerant and cannot tolerate strong light or west-facing sun; too strong light or west-facing sun easily causes the tree to be scorched. Magnolia likes fertilizer; besides applying base fertilizer at planting, it should be fertilized every year thereafter. Sufficient fertilizer can make the plant grow vigorously, with lush green and thick leaves, not only producing many buds but also large flowers, a long flowering period and rich fragrance. Magnolia is a tree species with relatively strong disease resistance; the main diseases are anthracnose, yellowing disease and leaf scorch. Besides ornamental value, magnolia also has medicinal value and edible value. Magnolia flowers contain volatile oil, mainly citral, clove oil acid and so on, and also contain magnoflorine, alkaloids, biond magnolia element, capric acid, rutin, oleic acid, vitamin A and other components, possessing a certain medicinal value. The nature and flavor of magnolia flowers are pungent and warm, with the effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold, opening the orifices, and freeing the lungs and clearing the nose. They can be used for headache, blood-stasis-type dysmenorrhea, nasal congestion, acute and chronic sinusitis, allergic rhinitis and other conditions. Modern pharmacological research shows that magnolia flowers have an inhibitory effect on common skin fungi.
Magnolia flowers are rich in vitamins, amino acids and various trace elements, and have the effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold and regulating qi and the lungs. They can be processed into snacks, and can also be brewed as tea. The magnolia flower language represents gratitude. Magnolia often opens large white flowers amid a scene of verdant green, and with that rich fragrance it makes people feel an indescribable temperament, truly fresh and delightful. Because its tree is tall and its flowers are positioned relatively high, swaying in the wind with a spirited bearing, like a heavenly maiden scattering flowers, it is very lovely.
Maranta
Maranta is a herbaceous plant. Most varieties have underground rhizomes or tubers; the leaves are solitary and relatively large, ovate or ovate-lanceolate, with veins arranged in a feather-like pattern, in two rows, with entire margins. Maranta is a relatively good groundcover plant with diverse colors and is a very good foliage plant. Maranta is a tropical plant that likes a warm, humid and brightly lit environment, and is neither cold-tolerant nor drought-tolerant, and fears scorching sun; if direct sunlight hits it, it will scorch the leaves, causing localized scorching at the leaf edges, stopping the growth of new leaves and yellowing the leaf color, so shading must be attended to during cultivation. Maranta is relatively sensitive to water; during the growing period it should be watered sufficiently to keep the potting soil moist, but the soil should not be waterlogged, otherwise it will cause root rot and even plant death. Maranta is somewhat "delicate." It requires enough careful attention 365 days a year; if the environment fluctuates greatly for a few days, it will leave "evidence of the crime" on the plant. This is the consensus of maranta seedling traders and producers. Plants of the family Marantaceae do not have many pests and diseases, mainly scale insects, whiteflies and so on. Of course it also has other values, such as medicinal value and dietary value. Maranta starch is almost entirely starch, containing no vitamins, with a protein content of only 0.2%. It can be used as a thickener for soups, sauces, puddings and dessert pastries. Added to water and boiled, it becomes a transparent, odorless and tasty paste. Maranta starch is fine in texture and, compared with other starches, can be cooked at lower temperatures and in shorter times, and is easy to digest, especially suitable for custards and other egg products that cannot be overcooked, and also suitable for making light-flavored, low-salt and low-protein foods. Effects: clears the lungs and stops cough, clears heat and promotes urination. Indications: used to treat cough due to lung heat and difficult painful urination due to damp-heat in the bladder.
Redflower loropetalum
Redflower loropetalum is an evergreen shrub or small tree. The bark is dark gray or light gray-brown, with many branches. The young branches are red-brown, densely covered with stellate hairs. The leaves are leathery and alternate, ovate or elliptic, 2-5 cm long, with a short pointed tip, a rounded and oblique asymmetric base, stellate hairs on both sides, entire margins, and dark red color. Redflower loropetalum likes light and is slightly shade-tolerant, but in shade the leaf color easily turns green. It has strong adaptability and is drought-tolerant. It likes warmth and can tolerate cold. Its sprouting and branching ability is strong, and it is tolerant of pruning. It tolerates poor soil, but is suitable for growing in fertile, moist, slightly acidic soil. Redflower loropetalum has luxuriant branches and leaves and a graceful posture, is tolerant of pruning and wiring, and can be used for hedges or for making stump bonsai; in the blooming season, the whole tree is full of red flowers, extremely spectacular. Loropetalum is an evergreen plant, with new leaves bright red; different strains differ in leaf color and flower color at maturity, and leaf size also differs. In garden applications, the main considerations are the two factors of leaf color and leaf size bringing about leaf-color contrast to form color contrast, and the flowering period can also be staggered. Main pests: aphids, geometrid moths, yellow noctuid moths, Daopan noctuid moths, large and small cutworms and scarab beetles and so on. Common diseases of redflower loropetalum: anthracnose, damping-off and mosaic disease. Anthracnose: mainly harms old leaves and basal leaves; because the leaves themselves are red, the disease spots appear
as black round spots, or nearly round, causing early leaf fall; damage is severe in the rainy season from July to August, and the pathogen is Actinomyces. The pathogen overwinters as mycelium on diseased leaves and is the initial infection source for the disease the following year. When you find disease on the branches and leaves of redflower loropetalum, you must treat it promptly.
Ornamental peach
Ornamental peach is a variety of peach, a tree 3-8 m tall; the crown is broad and flat-spreading; the bark is dark red-brown, rough and scaly when old; the twigs are slender, hairless, glossy, green, turning red on the sunny side, with numerous small lenticels; the winter buds are conical, blunt at the tip, covered with short soft hairs, often 2-3 clustered together, with a leaf bud in the middle and flower buds on both sides. The leaves are oblong-lanceolate, elliptic-lanceolate or obovate-lanceolate. Ornamental peach likes sunlight and is drought-tolerant, and cannot tolerate a damp environment. It likes a warm climate and has good cold tolerance, able to overwinter safely in a natural environment of minus 25 degrees Celsius. It requires fertile, well-drained soil. It does not like waterlogging; if planted in a low-lying waterlogged place, seedlings easily die. Garden value: ornamental peach has large flowers and brilliant color, beautiful when blooming, with an ornamental period of as long as 15 days. In landscaping it is widely used at lakesides, by streams, along both sides of roads and in parks and so on; in small greening projects such as courtyard greening accents and private gardens, it is also used for potted appreciation, and is also often used for cut flowers and making bonsai. There is also the common weeping ornamental peach. Ornamental peach has wide landscaping uses and outstanding greening effects, showing especially good results in the very year of planting. It can be planted in rows, in patches or as a solitary specimen, showing especially good greening effects in the very year. Ornamental peach is one of the commonly used colored nursery stock in landscaping, usually used together with nursery stock such as purple-leaf plum and purple-leaf sand cherry. Flowering shrubs are combined in planting to form a scene of a hundred flowers blooming together. Besides ornamental value, it also has medicinal value. The gum secreted on the peach trunk, commonly known as peach gum, can be used as an adhesive and so on; it is a kind of polysaccharide substance, and hydrolysis can produce arabinose, galactose, xylose, rhamnose, glucuronic acid and so on. It is edible and also used medicinally, with the effects of breaking blood stasis, harmonizing the blood and benefiting qi. Diseases and pests often occur in summer and autumn. Its main diseases are white rust and brown rot, shot hole disease, anthracnose, gummosis and leaf curl. The main pests are aphids, red spiders, scale insects, red-necked longhorn beetles and so on.
Artificial plant communities
1. Satsuki azalea + redflower loropetalum + golden-edged euonymus + thornless Japanese holly ball
These four plants have strong adaptability and are relatively widely planted in Fuzhou. Three leaf-colored plants are planted in linear form, with rich leaf colors, plus large-specification thornless Japanese holly balls, forming a neat, full and clearly layered road greening color band effect.
2. Redflower loropetalum + red-leaf photinia ball + Michelia figo + Japanese maple
Redflower loropetalum itself is widely planted in Fujian and has good adaptability, and both its leaf color and flower color are very beautiful, while the red-leaf photinia ball has its old leaves green dotted with new leaves red, setting each other off, extremely beautiful. The four plants combined have rich layers, and form a landscape road with vertical rhythm and spatial layers and a strong guiding sense.
3. Chinese fringeflower (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum) + Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica) + Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis) + frangipani (Plumeria rubra)
In this plant combination, green is the dominant color; the leaves range from small and fine (Chinese fringeflower) to broad and large (Japanese fatsia, frangipani), while the Canary Island date palm adds a touch of tropical flavor. The layering is rich, and it has the effect of visually shrinking the space, making people feel close to it.
4. Moso bamboo (Phyllostachys edulis) + iris
Moso bamboo is very suitable for planting in Fuzhou; it is a running bamboo, and the culms are spaced with gaps between dense and sparse. The iris has graceful form and gorgeous, varied flower colors; the two combined together have great charm.
5. Dwarf gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans') + Chinese fringeflower + Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica) + sweet osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans)
Dwarf gardenia has leaves like a sparrow's tongue and a low, short habit, so it can serve as the lowest layer of plants; Japanese aucuba has yellow spots on its leaves and is a relatively good foliage plant; and the tree-form sweet osmanthus has a subtle fragrance that refreshes the heart. The combination has both dense and sparse arrangement, variation in leaf color, and added floral fragrance.
6. Azalea (Rhododendron) + Chinese fringeflower + Chinese boxwood (Fagraea ceilanica) + canna (Canna indica)
The azalea has brilliant flowers, and with Chinese fringeflower and Chinese boxwood as a backdrop, it is even more striking; canna has broad, large leaves, shrinking the space and making people feel close to it.
7. Groundcover lawn + marigold (Tagetes erecta) + red photinia (Photinia × fraseri) + Chinese fringeflower balls + orange osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans 'Aurantiacus')
With green groundcover as the base, the marigold's bright yellow flowers are extremely beautiful; behind the marigold, Chinese fringeflower and red photinia serve as a backdrop, and the orange osmanthus has a spreading tree form. These plants set each other off, with rich variation.
8. Dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus) + guava tree (Psidium guajava)
Both dwarf lilyturf and guava tree adapt very well in Fuzhou and grow normally; the leaves are fine and soft, making dwarf lilyturf very suitable as groundcover, while the guava tree has yellow, smooth bark, graceful form, and relatively large leaves arranged with density and spacing, making it very suitable for open woodland paths.
9. Lawn + silver-edged agave (Agave americana var. marginata) + pruned and shaped banyan tree (Ficus microcarpa) + yellow-flowered twin-pod sophora (Sophora xanthantha)
With green lawn as the base, the agave's leaves are broad and large, with leaf color alternating between silver-yellow and green, and it is very harmonious when combined with the pruned and shaped banyan tree, while the yellow-flowered twin-pod sophora has a beautiful form and brilliant flower color. This plant combination has rich layering, with color changes that are nonetheless harmonious.
10. Dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus) + broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa) + areca palm (Dypsis lutescens) + papaya tree (Carica papaya)
This plant arrangement is suitable for one side of a small building; dwarf lilyturf has fine, soft leaf shapes, while broadleaf lady palm and areca palm have broader, larger leaves, and papaya has large palmate leaves, with its fruit borne on the main trunk, and its form is very graceful.
11. Copperleaf (Acalypha wilkesiana) + golden dewdrop (Duranta erecta) + Chinese fringeflower
As a plant combination for a carpet flower bed, copperleaf has bright leaf color and serves as the edge, golden dewdrop has yellow-green leaves, and Chinese fringeflower has dark purple leaves; the three plants combined as a carpet flower bed are extremely attractive.
Part Two: "Maintenance Plan 4"
Landscaping Maintenance and Management Plan
Maintenance and management are very important in landscaping; it is long-term, repeated work with relatively comprehensive technical requirements, including damage by people and animals, sanitation and cleaning, pruning of flowers, grass and trees, watering and fertilizing, pest and disease control, and planting of flower bed flowers. The completion of green space does not mean the completion of the landscape; people often say "three parts planting, seven parts management." Only with high-quality, high-level maintenance and management can the landscape gradually take shape and become perfect.
Current characteristics of plants in the park area:
1. The green area covers about 2,454,190,000 sq m, with a high greening coverage rate and a large number of trees of different specifications and varieties and pruned and shaped shrubs; the initial growth has gradually taken shape. After careful investigation, the plant planting characteristics can be roughly divided into two areas according to the original master plan:
1) Plaza area: The plant planting style in this area is relatively open; the plaza is mainly planted with ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), nanmu (Phoebe zhennan), and large trees in rows,
with appropriate matching of low shrubs, and the overall space is relatively transparent.
2) Factory area: The plant varieties in this area are complexly matched, with large and small trees, shrubs, and groundcover plants interplanted.
At the entrance, relatively precious large plants (Canary Island date palm, jacaranda (Jacaranda mimosifolia), small-leaf banyan stump,
premium sweet osmanthus, etc.) are dominant. Whether the office-area courtyard can still maintain its elegant, refined, open and grand
scenery, and whether the hotel villa-area courtyard can still carry forward its delicate, gentle, leisurely and relaxed atmosphere,
all depend on later maintenance and management.
2. From the greening conditions in the vertical area, we can find the following problems: ① Shaped shrubs are not growing well and their shapes are monotonous; ② Flowering shrubs have poor tree vigor, and their flowering conditions (including number of flowers, flower size, color, and reblooming) are unsatisfactory; ③ Lawns have many weeds, and in some local areas grass-family weeds show a trend of spreading unchecked; ④ There are pest and disease problems.
I. We plan to take the following rectification measures:
1. Promote three-dimensional horticulture and carry out varied and graceful shaping of hedges and shrubs. For flowering shrubs planted as accents, take growth-promoting measures to promote their growth and then shape them according to their form; this depends on the specific plant growth and plant shape. In some local areas, the hedges are highly regular, and the neat, uniform long strip shape undoubtedly makes a courtyard that should be free and leisurely appear mechanical and rigid. We can likewise try pruning them into wave shapes to match the relaxed and casual landscaping of the residential area, enlivening the atmosphere of the entire courtyard and also creating a smoother living environment.
2. Immediately begin pest and disease control. For plants showing signs of pests and diseases, immediately carry out large-scale chemical control.
3、
4、
5. For lawn weeds, apply chemicals and increase the workload of manual pulling. For different plants, implement different maintenance and management plans (mainly fertilizer supply: base fertilizer, topdressing, and foliar fertilizer; different plants and different seasons all have different fertilization methods and fertilizer choices). Plant labeling. We will classify and count all plants, then make green labels indicating their
family, genus, species, and living habits, and label all plants in the area. In this way,
we can enrich employees' general knowledge of plants, add to the cultural atmosphere of the park, and with eye-catching labels
bring more attention to the greening.
6. Greening maintenance is not a matter of a single day or night. While doing the rectification work well, we will also adopt different maintenance and management measures for different
plants at different times. We arrange our daily work by month
(detailed rules attached below), striving to make our work bring the landscape effect in the blueprint to the utmost,
and we also ask the client to offer more opinions so that our work can gradually become more perfect and complete.
7. Maintenance responsibilities
Within the contracted maintenance period, our company will, in accordance with landscaping maintenance operating procedures and landscaping maintenance quality standards, organize reasonably, maintain carefully, and dispatch professional horticulturists to organize, guide, and arrange management and protection work, and according to seasonal weather and plant growth conditions, flexibly dispatch no fewer than experienced workers to complete the maintenance and management tasks with guaranteed quality and quantity.
VI. Maintenance content
1. Management procedures: including watering, opening tree basins and earthing up, pruning, fertilizing, weeding, pruning and bud removal, pest and disease control, straightening, and replanting (nursery stock costs billed separately), and other complete processes. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.
2. Management tools:
A. Flower shears, long shears, high-altitude shears, grass shovels, lawn mowers
B. Sprayers, buckets, dump carts, bamboo baskets
C. Shovels, hoes, saws, electric saws, ladders
D. Fuel, repair costs
3. Maintenance content:
A. Trees: apply organic fertilizer once each year, with 0.25 kg of cake fertilizer per plant; apply topdressing once, with 0.1 kg of compound fertilizer mixed with urea per tree, using hole application, spraying, and water-fertilizer methods, then cover with soil and water thoroughly, with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm; control pests and diseases in a timely manner, maintain the trees' natural growth state with no need for shaping and pruning, promptly cut off yellow branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, shaded leggy branches, and drooping branches that obstruct vehicle passage, and promptly clean up pruned material. Remove weeds around the tree roots once a week to ensure no weeds.
B. Shrubs, hedges, bagged seedlings: fertilize once each quarter, applying 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, using broadcast application and water-fertilizer methods; water once within three hours after application, and water once per day (except rainy days), with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm; control pests and diseases in a timely manner; for those pruned into round, square, or conical shapes, carry out minor pruning once a week and major pruning once a month, with smooth and attractive cut surfaces; promptly remove pruned material, promptly cut off dead branches and diseased and pest-infested branches, promptly replant old, diseased, and dead plants, and remove weeds once a week.
C. Herbaceous plants: fertilize once each quarter, applying 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, using broadcast application and water-fertilizer methods; water once within three hours after application, and water once per day (except rainy days), with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm; control pests and diseases in a timely manner; cut off spent flowers once a week and remove weeds once a week; promptly cut off dead branches and yellow branches.
D. Taiwan grass: fertilize once each quarter, applying 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, with even fertilization and thorough watering, with water penetration depth of more than 5 cm; control pests and diseases in a timely manner; promptly replant wilted and dead missing parts, with coverage rate above 98%; prune 1-2 times per month.
(II) Specific annual landscaping maintenance work schedule:
January: the month with the lowest temperature of the year; open-field trees are in a dormant state.
1. Winter pruning: fully carry out shaping and pruning work on deciduous trees; prune dead branches, damaged branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and branches that obstruct overhead lines and buildings on large and small trees.
2. Street tree inspection: promptly inspect the tying and staking of street trees; when loosened ties, wire embedded in bark, unstable stakes, and other conditions are found, rectify immediately.
3. Pest control: winter is a favorable season for eliminating landscape pests. In the loose soil under trees, dig out the pupae and cocoons of slug moths and burn them in a concentrated manner. In mid-January, scale insects begin activity, but at this time they move slowly, so we can adopt the method of scraping off the larvae on the trunks. Controlling pests in winter often achieves twice the result with half the effort.
4. Green space maintenance: in green spaces, flower beds, and other places, pay attention to removing large weeds; lawns should be weeded and edged in a timely manner; in green spaces, pay attention to antifreeze watering.
February: the temperature rises somewhat compared with last month, and trees are still in a dormant state.
1. Maintenance is basically the same as January.
2. Pruning: continue pruning dead branches and diseased branches of large and small trees. Before the end of the month, finish pruning all kinds of trees.
3. Pest control: continue to focus on preventing slug moths and scale insects.
March: the temperature continues to rise; after mid-month, trees begin to sprout, and in late month some trees (such as camellia) bloom.
1. Tree planting: spring is a favorable time for planting trees. After the soil thaws, immediately seize the opportunity to plant trees. Before planting large and small trees, do planning and design well, dig (excavate) tree pits in advance, and achieve digging, transporting, planting, and watering as you go. When planting shrubs, also achieve digging, transporting, and planting as you go, and water fully to increase seedling survival rate.
2. Spring irrigation: because spring is dry and windy with high evaporation, to prevent spring drought, water green spaces and other areas in a timely manner.
3. Fertilization: after the soil thaws, apply base fertilizer to plants and irrigate. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.
4. Pest and disease control: this month is a critical time for pest and disease control. Some seedlings have developed sooty mold, and the boxwood leaf roller has also appeared (use pesticides such as fenitrothion spraying for control). To control slug moths, the method of digging out pupae can continue to be used.
April: the temperature continues to rise; trees all sprout and bloom or unfold leaves and begin to enter a period of vigorous growth.
1. Continue planting trees: in early April, seize the time to plant trees that sprout late; for shrubs that died in winter (azalea, Chinese fringeflower, etc.), promptly pull them out and replant, and water newly planted trees fully.
2. Irrigation: continue to water maintained green spaces in a timely manner.
3. Fertilization: for lawns and shrubs, combine with irrigation and apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer as topdressing, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.
4. Pruning: cut off branches that dried up in winter and spring; evergreen hedges can be pruned.
5. Pest and disease control: (1) After the second molting, scale insects successively move into bark cracks, tree holes, trunk bases, wall corners, and other places, secrete white waxy thin cocoons, and pupate. They can be swept away with a hard bamboo broom, then buried deeply in a concentrated manner or soaked. Or use the method of spraying pesticides such as fenitrothion. (2) Longhorn beetles begin activity; a grafting knife or self-made steel wire can be used to pick out the larvae, but the wounds should be as small as possible. (3) Control work for other pests and diseases.
6. Maintenance in green spaces: pay attention to removing weeds and climbing plants in large green spaces. Lawns should also be weeded and edged.
May: the temperature rises sharply, and trees grow rapidly.
1. Watering: during the peak leaf-unfolding period, trees have a very large water demand and should be watered in a timely manner.
2. Pruning: prune spent flowers. Carry out the first bud removal pruning for street trees.
3. Pest and disease control: continue to focus on catching longhorn beetles. The first generation of slug moths hatches, but has not yet reached a harmful level; make corresponding measures according to the actual situation in the maintenance area. Sooty mold caused by scale insects, aphids, and others has also entered a peak period (on crape myrtle, pittosporum, oleander, etc.). In mid- and late May, spray 10?20 times rosin mixture and 50% parathion emulsion at 1500?2000 times liquid to control diseases and kill pests. (Other pesticides such as insecticidal antibiotics and Huabao can also be used.)
June: high temperature
1. Watering: plants have a large water demand and must be watered in a timely manner; one cannot "live by looking at the sky."
2. Fertilization: combine loosening soil and weeding with fertilizing and watering to achieve the best effect.
3. Pruning: continue bud removal and tiller removal work for street trees. Carry out pruning for hedges, ball-shaped plants, and some flowering shrubs. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.
4. Drainage work: during heavy rain weather, pay attention to drainage in low-lying areas.
5. Pest and disease control: in mid- and late June, slug moths enter the peak hatching period, and measures should be taken in a timely manner; currently, 50% fenitrothion emulsion at 500?800 times liquid is basically used for spraying. (Or compound BT emulsion can be used for spraying.) Continue manual capture of longhorn beetles.
6. Do a good job of pre-flood and pre-typhoon inspection of trees; straighten, reinforce, and re-tie loose and tilted trees.
July: the highest temperature; after mid-month there will be strong winds and heavy rain.
1. Transplant evergreen trees: during the rainy season, with sufficient water, conifers and bamboos can be transplanted, but pay attention to weather changes and water promptly when high temperatures occur.
2. Drainage: drain promptly after heavy rain.
3. Topdressing: apply quick-acting fertilizers such as nitrogen fertilizer dry before rain.
4. Street trees: carry out typhoon-prevention bud removal pruning; prune all branches that conflict with power lines, and inspect tree stakes one by one; when looseness or instability is found, straighten and tie them tightly immediately. Prepare in advance in terms of labor organization, materials, tools and equipment, and send people to inspect at any time, handling dangerous situations promptly when found.
5. Pest and disease control: continue controlling longhorn beetles and slug moths. To control longhorn beetles, 50% fenitrothion at 1:50 times liquid can be injected (or fruit tree treasure, or Yuanke No. 3), then seal the hole, which can also achieve good results. Camphor tree nest borers should be promptly pruned out, and the insect nests destroyed to avoid harm again.
August: still the rainy season
1. Drainage: after heavy rain, drain low-lying waterlogged areas in a timely manner.
2. Typhoon prevention work for street trees: continue doing typhoon prevention work for street trees.
3. Pruning: in addition to general summer pruning of trees, carry out shaping pruning of hedges.
4. Cultivation and weeding: weeds also grow vigorously, so weed in a timely manner, and combine weeding with fertilization.
5. Pest and disease control: focus on catching longhorn beetles, and pay attention to catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Aphid damage and camphor tree nest borers should be controlled in a timely manner. In humid weather, pay attention to powdery mildew and rot disease, and take measures in a timely manner. September: the temperature drops somewhat; do related work well for National Day.
1. Pruning: in preparation for city appearance work, remove buds below the third-level branching of street trees. Shape-prune hedges. Weed in green spaces, edge lawns, promptly clean up dead trees, and achieve green branches and leaves on trees and clean and neat green spaces.
2. Fertilization: for some trees with weak growth and insufficiently substantial branches, apply some phosphorus and potassium fertilizer as topdressing.
3. Pest and disease control: shot hole disease (cherry blossom, peach, plum, etc.) is at its peak; use 500% carbendazim at 1000 times liquid to prevent infection. Longhorn beetles begin to shift to root damage; pay attention to catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Also promptly control wood borers on poplar and willow. Do a good job of controlling other pests and diseases.
4. Before the holiday, do a good job of inspecting all kinds of greening facilities.
October: the temperature drops; in late October it enters early winter, trees begin to shed leaves, and successively enter the dormant period.
1. Prepare well for autumn tree planting; in late month, once cold-tolerant trees shed their leaves, planting can begin.
2. Green space maintenance: promptly remove dead trees and water in a timely manner. Do a good job of weeding and edging in green spaces and lawns. Fertilize flowering plants that are growing poorly.
3. Pest and disease control: continue catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Also pay attention to observing and controlling camphor tree nest borers. November: the soil begins to freeze at night and thaw during the day, entering deep winter.
1. Tree planting: continue planting cold-tolerant plants, and complete before the soil freezes.
2. Turning soil: turn the soil in green spaces to expose pests preparing to overwinter.
3. Watering: water dry and hardened soil, and complete before freezing.
4. Pest and disease control: various pests prepare to overwinter in late month, so the control task is relatively light.
December: low temperature; begin winter maintenance work.
1. Winter pruning: prune some evergreen trees and shrubs.
2. Eliminate overwintering pests and diseases.
3. Prepare well for next year's adjustment work: after deciduous plants shed their leaves, observe the maintenance area and draw the positions to be adjusted.
VII. Green space maintenance quality objectives
1. Greening maintenance technical measures are complete and management is proper, achieving no exposed loess.
2. Landscape plants
2.1 Normal growth. Various plants in newly built green spaces reach normal form within three years; if plants or grass are damaged or die due to poor management, the replacement seedlings must survive within one year.
2.2 Garden trees have basically complete crowns, with main and lateral branches evenly distributed, appropriate in number, and reasonably pruned; the interior is not tangled, allowing ventilation and light penetration. Flowering shrubs bloom promptly and normally, and are pruned promptly after flowering. Hedges and color blocks have normal, neat and uniform branches and leaves. Street trees have no missing plants, and there are no dead trees in green spaces.
2.3 Deciduous trees have normal new shoot growth, and normal leaf size and color; under general conditions, yellow leaves, scorched leaves, curled leaves, and leaves with insect honeydew or webs must not exceed 5%, and the preservation rate of normal leaves is above 90%. Coniferous
Part Three: "Annual Greening Maintenance Plan"
Annual Greening Maintenance Plan
January
1. Carry out winter shaping and pruning of various deciduous trees, cutting off dead branches, overlapping branches, crossing branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and lower lateral branches, to ensure that tree development tends toward the reasonable, tree branch form is improved, and the breeding of pests and diseases is reduced.
2. Thin out trees that are too densely growing as appropriate, which can reduce pests and diseases and increase growth vigor.
3. Carry out winter plowing and turning of the soil, improve the soil, and apply winter fertilizer to all trees, ground cover and lawns, to ensure the nutrient needs of seedlings and lawns.
4. Winter is a favorable season for eliminating garden pests. In the loose soil under trees, dig out the pupae and cocoons of slug moths and burn them in a concentrated manner.
5. As conditions warrant, scarify individual lawn types and prune 1-2 times. February
1. Carry out weeding, pruning and fertilizing of lawns.
2. Do a good job in pest and disease prevention and control, especially paying attention to powdery mildew on narrow-leaved mahonia and giant mealybugs on coral and Japanese aralia.
3. In particular, strengthen freeze-proofing and heat-preservation measures for trees, and do a good job in loosening and banking soil around tree root systems.
4. For cool-season lawns, apply a topdressing of urea once at the end of the month at 10g/mu.
March
1. To prevent spring drought, water trees promptly.
2. For lawns, promptly roll and remove weeds, and clean up winter weeds in tree beds and flower beds.
3. Pest and disease control: strengthen observation and inspection, and do a good job in forecasting, reporting and prevention and control. In particular, pay special attention to sooty mold and boxwood leaf roller. In mid-March, crape myrtle mealybug eggs hatch; from late March, pear rust occurs on crabapple types and cold-season lawns, so pay attention to prevention reporting.
4. For local sunken or low-lying spots appearing in lawns, carry out soil banking and sand covering, and carry out low pruning of winter ryegrass lawns to ensure germination and growth of the underlying grass.
April
1. Do a good job in loosening soil, weeding and pre-flowering fertilizing of field-planted flowers and trees. In particular, apply light fertilizer to herbaceous perennials and spring-sown herbaceous flowers; for lawns and shrubs, combine with irrigation and apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.
2. Cut off branches that dried out in winter and spring; pruning of evergreen hedges may begin.
3. Pest and disease control: mainly control aphids, sooty mold and beetles. Keep relevant records.
May
1. This month is the peak period of tree leaf expansion, with very high water demand, so water promptly.
2. Prune spring flowering shrubs such as osmanthus and hall crabapple, and promptly carry out bud removal on plane trees, red-leaf plum, crape myrtle and other trees.
3. Hoe weeds in flower beds and shrub color blocks. At the same time, carry out weeding in lawns, and prune lawn grass promptly to control its height.
4. Pest and disease control: do a good job in forecasting, reporting and prevention and control.
June
1. Water plants promptly to ensure sufficient water supply for plants.
2. Loosen soil and hoe weeds in tree beds and color-block shrubs, and carry out weeding in lawns.
3. Lawns should be pruned promptly, and their growth height controlled; pay attention to controlling the occurrence of large-scale pests and diseases. Apply a compound fertilizer once to lawns that are growing poorly or lack fertilizer, so that they can pass the summer safely.
4. Pest and disease control: do a good job in forecasting, reporting and prevention and control.
July
1. In high-temperature weather, in particular ensure that plant watering work is implemented.
2. Carry out soil loosening and weed hoeing for flower bed color-block shrubs, and at the same time do a good job in weeding ground cover. This month the weather is hot, with high temperatures and relatively high humidity; weeds grow quickly, so seize the opportunity to hoe and remove weeds to prevent grass from running wild; continue intertillage, weeding and loosening the soil.
3. Earnestly do a good job in typhoon and flood prevention; reinforce and secure trees in the park to prevent lodging; promptly dredge and drain low-lying or severely waterlogged places.
4. Pest and disease control: do a good job in forecasting, reporting and prevention and control.
August
1. Carry out summer pruning of evergreen trees, and carry out shaping pruning of hedges.
2. Lawn weeds grow vigorously, so remove weeds and prune promptly, control lawn height, and combine weeding with fertilizing. Timely supplementary and topdressing fertilization is needed, mainly with P and K fertilizers, together with N fertilizer; for small seedlings, shrubs and herbaceous flowers, apply light fertilizer frequently; at the same time, pay attention to grasping the fertilization period and climate well.
3. In high-temperature weather, be sure to ensure daily watering and drought relief work; it must not be chosen from 10:00 to 15:00, so as to avoid burning the seedlings. (Including: tree bed maintenance, weed control, soil loosening, etc.)
4. Continue to do a good job in typhoon and flood prevention, further reinforce and secure large trees in residential areas to prevent lodging; and promptly dredge and drain ditches in low-lying and other water-prone places to prevent water from accumulating for too long.
5. Pest and disease control: do a good job in forecasting, reporting and prevention and control.
September
1. Carry out shaping pruning of hedges. Remove weeds in green spaces and promptly clear dead trees, so that trees have green branches and leaves and green spaces are clean and neat.
2. Thin out trees that are too densely growing, and at the same time carry out bud removal work.
3. Lawns should be pruned, edged and cleared of weeds promptly, and attention should be paid to pest and disease prevention and control.
4. Carry out weed hoeing for flower beds and color-block shrubs, and at the same time do a good job in weeding ground cover, and collect flower seeds.
5. Pest and disease control: do a good job in forecasting, reporting and prevention and control.
October
1. Prune spherical shrubs; to ensure beautiful appearance, neatness and distinct layers. Prune the tree form of evergreen trees so that their growth and development tend toward the reasonable and their tree posture and appearance are improved.
2. Strengthen management of newly planted herbaceous flowers, promptly fill gaps and water, and fertilize those growing poorly.
3. Pest and disease control: do a good job in forecasting and reporting, actively prevent and control, and keep relevant records. November
1. Carry out branch thinning and pruning of evergreen trees and evergreen shrubs, mainly for ventilation and light penetration, reducing pests and diseases, and enhancing growth vigor.
2. Do a good job in weeding, edging and timely pulling out of weeds in flower beds, color-block shrubs and green spaces, and promptly replant gaps. As conditions warrant, adjust trees in the local layout, and some evergreen trees and a few deciduous tree species may be transplanted. Begin cold protection and warmth preservation work, and for trees with
poor cold resistance, carry out straw wrapping and soil banking.
3. Strengthen maintenance and management of newly planted plants, pay attention to timely watering, and prune appropriately. For lawns, scarify and aerate as conditions warrant, and prune 2-3 times.
4. Carry out fertilization work in late this month, and combine with additional application of organic fertilizer to carry out soil turning in green spaces.
5. Pest and disease control: do a good job in forecasting and reporting, actively prevent and control, and keep relevant records. December
1. Do a good job in weeding and edging and timely pulling out of weeds in color-block shrubs and green spaces.
2. Carry out branch thinning and pruning of evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs, mainly removing stubs and dead branches, in order to make next year's tree growth better (flowering shrubs that have already formed flower buds must not be pruned); at the same time, pay attention to clearing insect cocoons on trunks and branches.
3. Wrap sago palms, date palms and other southern plants with straw rope to ensure they safely overwinter.
4. Pest and disease control: do a good job in forecasting and reporting, actively prevent and control, and keep relevant records.
Part Four: "Latest Commonly Used Southern Landscape Plants"
Commonly Used Garden Plants in Southern Landscapes
Evergreen trees:
Norfolk Island pine, slash pine, Chinese fir, Caribbean pine, Chinese weeping cypress, mahogany, big-leaf mahogany, false sterculia, Chinese saraca, sugar apple, longan, renmianzi, huolihan, golden shower tree, Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, Fujian cypress, Buddhist pine, Japanese cedar, Taiwan podocarpus, long-leaf podocarpus, white champaca, southern magnolia, official magnolia, camphor, camphor tree, cinnamon, kuzi, Hainan ormosia, Taiwan acacia, ironwood, red flower camel's foot, camel's foot tree, purple camel's foot, almond, mango, flower rosewood, water fig, water stone banyan, avocado, plumeria, false betel nut, Chinese fan palm, fish-tail palm, queen palm, rose apple, Hainan rose apple, sapodilla, lemon-scented gum, river red gum, big-leaf eucalyptus, blue gum, cajuput, butterfly fruit, Chinese torreya, Chinese plum yew, Indian rubber fig, mountain fig, small-leaf fig, large-fruit fig, weeping fig, yellow banyan, sacred fig, horsetail tree, jackfruit, camphor leaf maple, tanbark oak, blue Japanese oak, candlenut, silver beech, pointed-leaf elaeocarpus, large-leaf elaeocarpus, yellow hibiscus, hairy holly, glossy privet, osmanthus, loquat, albizia falcataria, royal palm, fish-tail palm, Mexican blue palm, gomuti palm, long-leaf date palm, autumn maple, red sandalwood, large-flowered dillenia, pineapple, yellow sophora, tree pineapple, large-leaf privet, Lechang michelia, schefflera, false umbrella tree
Deciduous trees:
Small-leaf terminalia, Chinese swamp cypress, water winter melon, Chinese tallow tree, Japanese raisin tree, sand pear, soapberry, entire-leaf goldenrain tree, frangipani, bald cypress, pond cypress, Chinese tulip tree, white magnolia, Chinese parasol tree, sawtooth oak, cork oak, Chinese hackberry, Chinese elm, white oak, camptotheca, large-flowered crape myrtle, beautiful silk floss tree, flame tree, peacock flower, jacaranda, yellow sophora, chinaberry, Chinese mahogany, coral tree, cockspur coral tree, chestnut, silk tree, acacia, prickly castor oil tree, sweetgum, weeping willow, Magnolia soulangeana, purple-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, papaya, Indian
rosewood, red-leaf plum
Evergreen shrubs:
Sago palm, Chinese plum yew, orchid tree, big-leaf boxwood, dense-flowered elaeagnus, camellia sasanqua, South China coral tree, spotted aucuba, hypericum, three-stamen areca, areca palm, jade palm, four-season orchid tree, soft-branch allamanda, small-leaf justicia, bottlebrush, Fukien tea, gardenia, crown of thorns, poinsettia, Yunnan jasmine, aucuba, Chinese holly, western azalea, bright-leaf ti plant, croton, red mulberry, golden-edged mulberry, golden-leaf fig, smooth senna, red azalea, marlberry, orange jasmine, red-back eupatorium, climbing ylang-ylang, camellia, oil tea, large-leaf tea, oleander, yellow oleander, small-flowered allamanda, serissa, banana shrub, pittosporum, mahonia, nandina, Japanese aralia, magnolia coco, hibiscus, Chinese lantern flower, rhododendron, Yucca gloriosa, yucca, South China boxwood, rhapis palm, soft-leaf date palm, short-spike fish-tail palm, dwarf lady palm, bamboo palm,
golden banyan, fiddle-leaf fig, willow-leaf fig, golden-vein justicia, schefflera, variegated golden dewdrop, yellow-leaf golden dewdrop, justicia, golden-leaf privet, giant taro, bird's nest fern, monstera, cast-iron plant, snake plant, thick-leaf rhaphiolepis, variegated hibiscus, purple cotton, small-leaf boxwood, African jasmine, yesterday-today-and-tomorrow, ximali, crinum lily, spider lily, powderpuff, red-flower loropetalum, angel's trumpet, white paper fan, red paper fan, hairy azalea, western azalea, twin-pod senna, hard-stem trumpet creeper, rose myrtle, Chinese ixora, Yunnan jasmine, jasmine, fiddle-leaf coral, blue snowflake, blue star flower, butterfly pea, nandina, pepper tree, red-back eupatorium,
Deciduous shrubs:
Cotton rose, bridal wreath spirea, rhombic-leaf spirea, modern rose, glossy abelia, pomegranate, beautyberry, purple magnolia, lespedeza, Amur honeysuckle, shrubby hydrangea, rose of Sharon, redbud, dwarf flowering cherry, bridal wreath, pearl flower, butterfly tree, elderberry, fig, prickly ash, trifoliate orange, butterfly bush, small wax privet
Vines:
Monstera, bougainvillea, chicken-blood vine, firecracker vine, rangoon creeper, three-leaf akebia, honeysuckle, climbing euonymus, climbing fig, kiwi, creeping euonymus, Hong Kong rhaphidophora, sparrow flower, wax flower, rhaphidophora, pothos, star jasmine, Chinese ivy, English ivy, southern magnolia vine, Boston ivy, Chinese trumpet creeper, passionflower, multi-flowered crape myrtle, evergreen mucuna, large-flowered thunbergia
Climbing ylang-ylang, large-flowered thunbergia, rangoon creeper, coral vine, Boston ivy, firecracker vine, white-flowered mucuna, beautiful clerodendrum, wisteria, climbing fig, cypress vine, morning glory, maple-leaf morning glory, snake vine, common jasmine, large-flowered dutchman's pipe, garlic vine, wood rose, Monkey's fringe, passionflower
Bamboo:
Green-skin bamboo, pink single bamboo, moso bamboo, fernleaf bamboo, bamboo, golden-striped jade bamboo, sinocalamus affinis, hedge bamboo, bitter bamboo, indocalamus, Buddha belly bamboo, ma bamboo, green-skin bamboo, Thai bamboo, pole bamboo, square bamboo, green bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, small qinsi bamboo, red bamboo
Lawns and ground cover plants:
Bermuda grass, Chinese zoysia, fine-leaf zoysia, carpet grass, centipede grass, jointed paspalum, Manila grass, zoysia, Guangdong evergreen, purple dew plant, oyster plant, lily turf, large-leaf curculigo, dwarf lilyturf, reineckea, cast-iron plant, black-eyed Susan, stone calamus, autumn zephyr lily, Chinese leek lily, golden spider lily, white butterfly, butterfly flower, red-flower oxalis, inch plant,
Purple-back arrowroot, arrowhead plant, white-butterfly arrowhead plant, pothos, inch plant, sword fern, clearweed, small oyster plant, peace lily, silver-edged lily turf, red-flower lantana, yellow-flower lantana, purple-flower lantana,
Dusty miller, bleeding glorybower, shrimp plant, firecracker flower, asparagus fern, beach evening primrose, beach morning glory, English ivy, star jasmine, ginger lily, umbrella papyrus, papyrus, iris, purple loosestrife, narcissus, lotus, water lily, three-lobed wedelia, red-flower oxalis, Brazilian peanut vine, dichondra, purple amaranth, round-leaf amaranth, coleus, fine-leaf verbena, red-green grass, autumn zephyr lily, Chinese leek lily, amaryllis, lily, calla lily, periwinkle, centipede grass, Manila grass, Korean zoysia, Bermuda grass, large-leaf carpet grass, variegated dull grass, bahia grass, short-leaf lily turf
Palms:
Royal palm, Washington palm, triangle palm, king palm, foxtail palm, Butia palm, bottle palm, club palm, Middle East date palm, Canary Island date palm, Bismarck palm, oil palm, fish-tail palm, palm, dragon-scale palm, Chinese fan palm, queen palm, fish-tail palm, queen palm, Mexican blue palm, beautiful date palm, short-spike fish-tail palm, long-spike fish-tail palm, areca palm, three-stamen areca, traveler's palm, lady palm,
Seasonal flowers
Star flower, African impatiens, four-season begonia, scarlet sage, petunia, hybrid dianthus, ornamental kale, French marigold, marigold, nasturtium, pansy, wishbone flower, cockscomb, pot marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, moss rose, purslane, cosmos, cineraria, cleome, daylily, lavender, purple loosestrife
Part Five: "Examples of Southern Plant Arrangement"
Southern Plant Arrangement
Monstera + umbrella papyrus + variegated galangal
Large horsetail tree + seven-color horsetail tree + nandina + sword fern + placed stone
Royal palm + fish-tail palm + beautiful date palm + canna + coleus + croton
Royal palm + Canary Island date palm crown + red ti + red mulberry + Chinese ixora
Royal palm + false betel nut + areca palm + large-leaf lady palm + golden leaf
Part Six: "Commonly Used Garden Plants in the South"
Commonly Used Plants in Southern Courtyards
I. Palms:
1. Royal palm 2. False betel nut 3. Washington palm 4. Silver date palm 5. Canary Island date palm 6. Three-stamen areca
7. Chinese fan palm 8. Mexican blue palm 9. Areca palm 10. Lady palm (fine-leaf lady palm) 11. Golden mountain palm 12. Soft-leaf date palm
II. Trees (street trees, courtyard shade trees):
1. Flame tree 2. Kapok 3. Beautiful silk floss tree 4. Coral tree 5. Pointed-leaf elaeocarpus 6. Plumeria
7. Small-leaf fig 8. Water stone banyan 9. Mango 10. Chinese mahogany 11. Camphor 12. Large-flowered crape myrtle
13. Red sandalwood 14. Frangipani 15. Terminalia 16. Traveler's palm 17. Red prickly pandanus 18. Autumn maple
19. Star fruit 20. Pointed-leaf olea 21. Golden shower tree 22. Albizia falcataria 23. Cajuput
24. Eucalyptus 25. Hainan rose apple 26. Large-leaf aphanamixis 27. Camel's foot tree 28. Mahogany
29. Mountain fig 30. Flame tree 31. Yellow-flower trumpet tree 32. Goldenrain tree
III. Flowering shrubs:
1. Four-season osmanthus 2. Fine-leaf qinsi bamboo 3. Tree fern 4. Yellow banyan 5. Bougainvillea
6. Yellow sophora 7. Bottlebrush 8. Golden-edged sisal 9. Hibiscus 10. Fagraea 11. Variegated fig
12. Hibiscus 13. Banana shrub 14. Crape myrtle 15. Powderpuff 16. Tabernaemontana 17. Longshe orchid
18. Ten-thousand-year sisal 19. Yucca 20. Firecracker vine 21. Yellow oleander 22. Polyscias
IV. Ground cover or color blocks:
1. Pittosporum 2. Monstera 3. Pothos 4. Bird's nest fern 5. Ruby 6. Large-leaf polygala 7. Schefflera
8. Little angel 9. Golden leaf 10. Cigar flower 11. Fine-leaf frog orchid 12. Three-star arrowroot 13. Hairy azalea
14. Dwarf Chinese fan palm 15. Bird's nest fern 16. Variegated golden dewdrop 17. Spider lily 18. Inch plant 19. Soft-branch allamanda
20. Variegated galangal 21. Asparagus fern 22. Golden peanut 23. Fine-leaf ixora 24. Sword fern 25. Yellow shrimp flower
26. White butterfly 27. Clearweed 28. Variegated dieffenbachia 29. Rainbow ti plant 30. Croton 31. Lily turf
32. Silver-edge grass 33. Jasmine 34. Velvet Calathea 35. Taiwan grass 36. Large-leaf carpet grass
37. Manila grass 38. Bermudagrass 39. Ryegrass 40. Tall fescue
There are also some commonly used plants:
1. Bodhi fig 2. Mountain fig 3. Water stone fig 4. Campanula 5. National Day flower 6. Golden shower tree
7. Siamese senna 8. Sausage tree 9. Thai yellow large yellow flower ball 10. Golden melaleuca
11. Winged-pod senna 12. Twin-pod sophora 13. Dwarf poinciana 14. Water banyan 15. Grey manglietia
16. Hainan sajin 17. Variegated money tree 18. Hainan ormosia 19. Mahogany
20. Albizia 21. Sandalwood cassia 22. Autumn osmanthus 23. Laurel 24. Washingtonia 25. Thin-leaf bamboo
26. Indian yellow (purple) sandalwood 27. Red sandalwood 28. Mountain dianella 29. Leizhou fig 30. Cat-tail tree
Commonly used garden plants in South China
1. Evergreen trees
Norfolk Island pine, Cunningham's araucaria, Keteleeria, large-leaf araucaria, kauri, Masson pine, slash pine, camphor tree, Cinnamomum japonicum, Eucalyptus grandis x urophylla, paperbark tree, rose apple, Hainan rose apple, autumn maple, Taiwan acacia, Maqian acacia, ear-pod acacia, red sandalwood, small-leaf fig, large-leaf fig, mountain fig, bird fig, Indian rubber fig, variegated Indian rubber fig, bodhi tree, candlenut, mahogany, Dillenia, devil's tree, Indian almond, small-leaf Indian almond, jackfruit, wax apple, human-face fruit, sapodilla, chinaberry, beefwood, white magnolia, night-blooming magnolia, firepower manglietia, small-leaf elaeocarpus, Southern magnolia, sea hibiscus, mango, longan, lychee, olive, loquat, bayberry, pomelo, water stone fig, Buddhist pine, dragon juniper, bamboo-leaf pine, osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, banana shrub, Milan tree, camellia, weeping fig, butterfly fruit, oblique-leaf fig
2. Deciduous trees
Dawn redwood, pond cypress, bald cypress, Chinese swamp cypress, tulip tree, Chinese parasol tree, autumn maple, albizia, large-leaf albizia, leucaena, sweetgum, weeping willow, sausage tree, Anthocephalus, silver birch, Chinese hackberry, soapberry, Chinese pistache, chinaberry, Chinese tallow, tung tree, ginkgo, sterculia, persimmon, fig, mulberry, papaya, guava, red maple, Acacia farnesiana
3. Palms
Alexander palm, royal palm, king palm, bottle palm, club palm, triangle palm, foxtail palm, queen palm, oil palm, sugar palm, large fan palm, Washington palm, Canary Island date palm, Middle East date palm, Iraqi honey date palm, Chinese fan palm, fish-tail palm, sugar palm, spiny date palm, soft-leaf date palm, three-stamen areca, green palm, fragrant palm, long-spike fish-tail palm, short-spike fish-tail palm, areca palm, windmill palm, banana, traveler's palm, cordyline, bamboo palm, thin-leaf bamboo palm, Nicolas bird of paradise, red-stem philodendron, false taro
4. Foliage shrubs
Golden-leaf weeping fig, golden fig, fiddle-leaf fig, willow-leaf fig, Garcinia, variegated reed bamboo, drooping polyalthia, red-spiny pandanus, Pittosporum, variegated hibiscus, sago cycad, red bottlebrush, woody night jasmine, Cotinus, golden-vein Justicia, Japanese aralia, creeping juniper, variegated cassava, nandina, Schefflera, variegated Schefflera, pepper tree, red-back Excoecaria, red mulberry, Japanese lilac, Duranta, variegated Duranta, yellow-leaf Duranta, orange jasmine, croton, halberd-leaf croton, Hainan croton, gold-dusted croton, Gendarussa, Fukien tea, small-leaf boxwood, golden-leaf privet, crown of thorns, yellow-striped snake plant, agave, silver-edge agave, yucca, bottle palm, cast-iron plant, snake plant, cactus, giant taro, Philodendron, Monstera, variegated shell ginger, beach naupaka, thick-leaf Rhaphiolepis, variegated Breynia, Ceylon Phyllanthus, Chinese rose
5. Flowering shrubs
African jasmine, yesterday-today-and-tomorrow, rare jasmine, hibiscus, Chinese hibiscus, coral vine, Chinese lantern, poinsettia, powderpuff, bougainvillea, large-flower gardenia, hydrangea, red-bract flower, wild peony, red-flower loropetalum, large-flower Datura, white paper fan, red paper fan, yellow allamanda, Western azalea, twin-pod senna, hard-stem trumpet creeper, rose myrtle, Ixora, foxtail pearl, Yunnan yellow jasmine, jasmine, crinum lily,
spider lily, crab-claw flower, dwarf canna, stone sea pepper, fiddle-leaf coral, blue snowflower, blue star flower, Spanish butterfly
6. Ground covers
Purple-back maranta, arrowhead vine, white-butterfly arrowhead vine, pothos, wandering Jew, sword fern, clearweed, small oyster plant, peace lily, lilyturf, silver-edge lilyturf, red-flower lantana, yellow-flower lantana, purple-flower lantana, dusty miller, bleeding glorybower, shrimp plant, red firecracker flower, asparagus fern, beach evening primrose, beach morning glory, English ivy, star jasmine, ginger lily, umbrella plant, papyrus, iris, purple loosestrife, narcissus, lotus, water lily, three-lobed Wedelia, red-flower oxalis, Brazilian peanut vine, dichondra, purple amaranth, round-leaf bloodleaf, coleus, fine-leaf verbena, red-green grass, autumn zephyr lily, pink zephyr lily, amaryllis, lily, calla lily, periwinkle, centipede grass, Manila grass, Korean velvet grass, Bermuda grass, large-leaf carpet grass, variegated obtuse grass, bahia grass, dwarf mondo grass
7. Vines
Large-flower thickfoot, Rangoon creeper, coral vine, Boston ivy, firecracker vine, white-flower Mucuna, beautiful Clerodendrum, wisteria, creeping fig, cypress vine, morning glory, maple-leaf morning glory, snake vine, common jasmine, large-flower Dutchman's pipe, garlic vine, wood rose, Bignonia, passionflower
Chapter Seven: "Document on Commonly Used Plant Arrangements in South China"
Practical Plant Arrangement Table ---- Brief Table of Commonly Used Plant Arrangements
Aquatic plants:
Wetland plants: Hankow willow, weeping willow, cotton willow, sand willow, artemisia willow, soap willow, small-leaf poplar, Liaoning poplar, sand cypress, Chinese juniper, Chinese arborvitae, dawn redwood, chinaberry, Chinese wingnut, white ash, forsythia, elm, cut-leaf elm, Chinese elm, Chinese tallow, cherry blossom, eucommia, goldenrain tree, cotton rose, hibiscus, oleander, Boston ivy, grape, wisteria, false indigo, tamarisk, buttercup, water hyacinth buttercup, long-leaf alkali grass, marsh willow-leaf, willow-leaf grass, marsh woundwort, Chinese woundwort, mint, Mazus, speedwell, watercress, Scirpus, water wool grass, flat-stem Scirpus, water nutgrass, flower-spike nutgrass, globe-spike pycreus, red-phosphorus pycreus, jointed rush, small-flower rush, small rush, fine rush, knotgrass, common smartweed, red smartweed, clustered smartweed, dock-leaf smartweed, willow-leaf thorn smartweed, small arrow-leaf smartweed, mile-a-minute, thorn smartweed, halberd-leaf smartweed, large halberd-leaf smartweed, Japanese knotweed, thatch grass, Calamagrostis, large-leaf grass, Beckmannia, long-awn clubhead, wild ancient grass, silvergrass, Job's tears, limpograss, wetland premna,
Emergent plants: water onion, reed, lotus root, arrowhead, broad-leaf pycreus, Alisma, lotus, purple loosestrife, cattail, duck-tongue grass, Monochoria, calamus, pickerelweed, rice, water pen, narcissus, water celery, wild rice stem, taro, four-leaf clover, reed, water chestnut, Scirpus triqueter, needle rush, water candle, umbrella sedge, broad-leaf cattail
Floating plants: duckweed, water hyacinth, water lily, fox nut, Victoria lily, spatterdock, water hyacinth, water shield, water shield, yellow bladderwort, floating fern, keel-petal water shield,
Submerged plants: hornwort, water plantain
Colorful-leaf plants:
Red or purple: sweetgum, lacquer tree, Japanese maple, trident maple, oriental bittersweet, red oak, Tang maple, Chinese tallow, staghorn sumac, sumac, mountain ash, nandina, euonymus, hawthorn, Chinese pistache, Chinese wingnut, barberry, Hubei hornbeam, Boston ivy
Golden or yellow-brown: ginkgo, persimmon, goldenrain tree, tulip tree, Chinese parasol tree, elm, walnut, catalpa, dawn redwood, crape myrtle, Chinese elm, nanmu, wild jujube, kiwi, horse chestnut, water elm mountain ash, wintersweet, pomegranate, yellow sophora, witch hazel, soapberry, Acacia farnesiana
Aromatic plants:
Aromatic plants that can be planted in residential areas include: herbs such as mint, basil, lemon balm, German chamomile, lemongrass, sage, dandelion, pot marigold, thyme, borage, scented geranium, and mallow; shrubs such as lavender, rosemary, gardenia, rose, and lemon verbena.
Woody plants arranged to release fragrance in turn through the four seasons, for example: plum blossom and orange blossom in spring; gardenia and white magnolia in summer; osmanthus in autumn and wintersweet in winter.
Pollution-resistant and exhaust-resistant plants: black locust, Paulownia, lacebark pine, Chinese juniper, coral tree, Photinia, Pittosporum, Japanese aralia, etc.
Nitrogen-fixing plants: Robinia, Lonicera, Albizia, false indigo, Caragana, soybean, Lespedeza, Melilotus, pea, bean, bayberry, Elaeagnus, cycad
Nectar-source, bird-attracting and butterfly-attracting plants: dwarf yew, Buddhist pine, Torreya, Japanese holly, camphor, bayberry, privet, ternstroemia, viburnum, aucuba, Mahonia, firethorn, boxwood, Pittosporum, Japanese aralia, etc., butterfly bush, Chinese pistache, and other fragrant-flower plants (such as Citrus plants of the Rutaceae family)
Perennial (herbaceous) flowers: torch lily (red-hot poker), lupine, blue fescue, astilbe, coreopsis, Lysimachia, oregano, large-flower hibiscus, red-flower mint, variegated star jasmine, thistle-leaf mesembryanthemum, hellebore, lycoris, daylily, iris, spiderwort, hosta, variegated canna, red-leaf canna, Dutch aster, large Wu Feng Zi grass, bletilla, perennial verbena
Flowers and trees of the four seasons:
Spring: various cherry blossoms (early cherry, late cherry, weeping cherry, etc.), various crabapples (Mulus spectabilis, Mulus cathayensis, Mulus halliana, etc.), Magnoliaceae (Southern magnolia, white magnolia, Yulan magnolia, purple magnolia, red magnolia, banana shrub, Michelia maudiae, etc.), redbud, red-leaf
plum, peach blossom, camellia, winter jasmine, lilac, etc.
Summer: crape myrtle, hibiscus, hydrangea, banana shrub, summer azalea, pomegranate (flower), gardenia, trumpet creeper, albizia, Acacia farnesiana. Autumn: osmanthus, crape myrtle, hibiscus, flowering pomegranate, cotton rose, trumpet creeper, etc.
Winter: honeysuckle, nandina, plum blossom, banana shrub, camellia, sasanqua, etc.
Classification diagram of common greening tree species:
(1) Evergreen conifers
1. Tree types: deodar cedar, Korean pine, black pine, dragon juniper, Masson pine, Chinese juniper, sago cycad, araucaria, Japanese cedar, Torreya
2. Shrub types: (Buddhist pine), Oriental arborvitae, Calocedrus, creeping juniper, Japanese cedar, five-needle pine
(2) Deciduous conifers (no shrubs):
Tree types: dawn redwood, golden larch, pond cypress, bald cypress
(3) Evergreen broadleaf trees:
1. Tree types: camphor, Southern magnolia, privet, windmill palm
2. Shrub types: coral tree, large-leaf boxwood, boxwood, Chinese boxwood, holly, orange tree, Photinia, Pittosporum, osmanthus, oleander, yellow jasmine, winter jasmine, gold-dusted coral, nandina, snow-in-June, small-leaf privet, Japanese aralia, gardenia, mosquito fern, camellia, Hypericum, azalea, yucca (pineapple flower, arrow hemp), sago cycad (iron tree), Mahonia
(4) Deciduous broadleaf trees:
1. Tree types: weeping willow, upright willow, Chinese wingnut, dragon-claw willow, Chinese tallow, pagoda tree, Chinese parasol tree (Chinese
parasol tree), plane tree (French plane), pagoda tree (Chinese scholar tree), coiled pagoda tree, albizia, ginkgo, chinaberry (bitter chinaberry), catalpa
2. Shrub types: cherry blossom, white magnolia, peach blossom, wintersweet, crape myrtle, redbud, maple, green maple, red-leaf plum, Mulus halliana, hanging bell crabapple, hydrangea, oak-leaf hydrangea, golden bell flower (golden), cotton rose, hibiscus (hibiscus tree), mountain hemp (cinnamon garden tree), pomegranate
(5) Bamboo types: Ci-xiao bamboo, moso bamboo, bamboo, black bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, phoenix-tail bamboo, Buddha-belly bamboo, golden bamboo with jade inlay
(6) Vines: wisteria, star jasmine, Boston ivy (Boston ivy, wall-climbing tiger), English ivy, grape vine, Euonymus fortunei
(7) Flowers: purslane, chrysanthemum, salvia, canna, five-color amaranth, cabbage (ball cauliflower), chrysanthemum, orchid
(8) Lawn: velvet grass, zoysia grass, mondo grass, four-season green grass, tall fescue, Manila grass, clover, dichondra
Detailed table of commonly used plant arrangements
Table of generally commonly used street trees
Name Scientific name Family Tree shape Characteristics
Camphor Cinnamomun camphcra Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen large tree, leaves alternate, three-veined, two-fragrant, berries spherical.
Plane tree Platanus x acerifolia Platanaceae Oval Likes warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerant of pruning. Large crown with dense shade, suitable as street tree and courtyard shade tree.
Maple Liquidamdar formosana Hance. Hamamelidaceae Conical Deciduous tree, bark grey and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, beautiful tree form
Flame tree Delonix regia Raffin Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Sun-loving, likes warm hot climate, not cold-tolerant, fast-growing, pollution-resistant, wind-resistant; flowers red and beautiful, flowering period May to August
Albizia Albizia julibrissin Mimosaceae Umbrella-shaped Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as courtyard shade ornamental tree, street tree
Acacia farnesiana Albizia farnesiana Wild. Mimosaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, fast-growing, dense branches and leaves, flowers golden yellow, excellent tree vigor
Weeping willow Salix babylonica Linn. Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, suitable for low-temperature land, grows luxuriantly and rapidly, beautiful tree form
Banyan Ficus retusa Linn.. Moraceae Spherical Deciduous tree, broad crown, fast-growing, strong canopy density, suitable for various pruning
Camphor tree Cinnamomum camphora Ness. Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen tree, broad crown, large and round, strong growth, beautiful tree form
Chinese fan palm Livitonia chinensis R.Br. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Tree vigor single-trunk upright, leaf surface dark green, strong growth, very beautiful posture
Longan tree Euphoria longana Lanark. Sapindaceae Round Evergreen tree with round crown, strong canopy density, slower growth, very beautiful posture
Bitter chinaberry (chinaberry) Melia azedarach Linn. Meliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous tree, fast-growing, crown deformed, slightly umbrella-shaped, flowers pale purple
Chinese parasol tree Sterculia platanifolia L. Sterculiaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, leaf surface broad, fast-growing, upright when young, crown dispersed when old
Paper mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. Moraceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, leaves huge and soft-thin, branches scattered, crown umbrella-shaped, posture also beautiful
Alder Alnus formosana Makino. Fagaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, tolerant of moisture and heat, unsuitable for dry land and hard soil, tall and beautiful tree form
Ash tree Faxinus insularis Hemsl. Oleaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, strong tree vigor, fast-growing, beautiful tree form and leaf shape. Araucaria Araucaria cuninghamii Araucariaceae Conical Evergreen conifer, sun-loving, likes warm hot climate, not cold-tolerant, likes fertilizer, fast-growing, crown narrowly conical, beautiful posture
Qinghai spruce Picea carassifolia Pinaceae Tower-shaped Evergreen conifer, neutral, shallow-rooted, suitable for Northwest China
Korean pine Pinus koraiensis Pinaceae Tower-shaped Evergreen conifer, weakly sun-loving, likes cool humid climate and acidic soil, needles blue-green
Chinese juniper (juniper) Sabina chinensis Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen conifer, sun-loving, young trees slightly shade-tolerant, drought and barren-tolerant, cold-tolerant, slightly moisture-tolerant, pruning-tolerant, good dust-proof and sound-insulating effect
Southern magnolia Magnolia grandiflora L. Magnoliaceae Oval Evergreen tree, flowers large white and fragrant, beautiful tree form,
Taiwan acacia Acacia confusa Merr. Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, bark smooth when young, rough when old, trunk mostly curved, strong growth
Date palm Phoenix dactylifera L. Arecaceae Pinnate Evergreen broadleaf tree, trunk branching, strong heat resistance, strong growth, beautiful posture
Long-leaf date palm (Canary Island date palm) Phoenix dactylifera Arecaceae Pinnate Evergreen broadleaf tree, trunk thick, tall and majestic, pinnate leaves dense and spreading,
Royal palm (royal coconut) Oreodoxa regia H.B.K. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single trunk upright, up to 18m tall, slightly swollen in the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, great ornamental value
Ginkgo Ginkgo biloba Ginkgoaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, autumn leaves yellow, cold-tolerant, deep-rooted, not tolerant of waterlogging, resistant to various toxic gases
Tulip tree (horse-jacket tree) Liriodendron chinense Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, likes warm humid climate, relatively strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, fast-growing, long-lived, leaf shape like a horse jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.
Chinese white poplar Populus tomentosa Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, likes cool temperate climate, pollution-resistant, deep-rooted, fast-growing, relatively long-lived; tree form upright, trunk straight, bark grey-white
Lombardy poplar Populus nigra var. italica Salicaceae Narrow cylindrical Deciduous broadleaf tree, cold and drought-tolerant, slightly tolerant of salinity and waterlogging, fast-growing
Chinese elm Ulmus parvifolia Ulmaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, likes warm humid climate, drought and barren-tolerant, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long-lived, resistant to smoke and toxic gases, strong dust-retention ability
Box elder (compound-leaf maple) Acer negundo Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, likes fertile soil and cool humid climate, smoke-tolerant, dry-cold-tolerant, slightly salinity-tolerant, pruning-tolerant, autumn leaves yellow {Maintenance measures for date palms, a South China plant}.
Table of commonly used landscape tree traits
Name Scientific name Family Tree shape Characteristics
Camphor Cinnamomun camphcra Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen large tree, leaves alternate, three-veined, two-fragrant, berries spherical.
Plane tree Platanus x acerifolia Platanaceae Oval Likes warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerant of pruning. Large crown with dense shade, suitable as street tree and courtyard shade tree.
Southern magnolia Magnolia grandiflora L. Magnoliaceae Oval Evergreen tree, flowers large white and fragrant, beautiful tree form,
White magnolia Magnolia denudata Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Quite cold-tolerant, afraid of waterlogging. Flowers large pure white, blooms March to April. Suitable for courtyard ornamental.
Tulip tree (horse-jacket tree) Liriodendron chinense Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, likes warm humid climate, relatively strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, fast-growing, long-lived, leaf shape like a horse jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.
Chinese arborvitae Thuja orientalis Linn Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen tree, tree form neat when young, mostly curved when old, strong growth, long-lived, beautiful tree form
Ash tree Faxinus insularis Hemsl. Oleaceae Round Evergreen tree, strong tree vigor, fast-growing, beautiful tree form and leaf shape. Autumn maple Bischoffia javanica Blanco Euphorbiaceae Round Evergreen tree, very beautiful when young leaves sprout, strong growth, beautiful tree form
Weeping willow Salix babylonica Linn. Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, suitable for low-temperature land, grows luxuriantly and rapidly, beautiful tree form
Calocedrus Calocedrus macrolepis Kurz Cupressaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, bark grey-brown, showing irregular vertical cracks; branchlets alternate, green when young, flat.
Royal palm Roystonea regia Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single trunk upright, up to 18m tall, slightly swollen in the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, great ornamental value
Large-leaf boxwood Euonymus japonica Celastraceae Oval Likes warm humid climate, resistant to toxic gases. Foliage ornamental. Suitable for hedges and foundation planting.
Maple Liquidamdar formosana Hance. Hamamelidaceae Conical Deciduous tree, bark grey and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, beautiful tree form
Chinese wingnut Pterocarya stenoptera Juglandaceae Umbrella-shaped Strong adaptability, waterlogging-tolerant, fast-growing. Suitable as courtyard shade tree, street tree, bank-protection tree
Creeping juniper Sabina procumbens Cupressaceae Evergreen creeping dwarf shrub, branches and trunk sprawling along the ground, leaves needle-like. Slow-growing, unique tree form, branches and leaves emerald green and smooth. Suitable for ground cover and beautification around courtyard stones, ponds, sand pits, slopes, etc. {Maintenance measures for date palms, a South China plant}.
Duranta Duranta repens Verbenaceae Round Evergreen shrub. Suitable for large potted plants, flower troughs, hedges. Yellow-leaf Duranta is mainly foliage ornamental, widely used, can be used as ground cover, pruned into shapes, forming patterns or emphasizing color combinations, dazzling and eye-catching. Holly Ilex cornuta Aquifoliaceae Round Resistant to toxic gases, slow-growing. Green leaves and red fruit, very beautiful. Suitable for foundation planting. Paper mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. Moraceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, leaves huge and soft-thin, branches scattered, posture also beautiful
Chinese elm Ulmus parvifolia Ulmaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, likes warm humid climate, drought and barren-tolerant, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long-lived, resistant to smoke and toxic gases, strong dust-retention ability
Chinese juniper Juniperus Chinensis Linn Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen medium tree, branches densely grown, dark green, strong growth, suitable for pruning, beautiful tree form
Pittosporum Pittosporum tobira Pittosporaceae Round White flowers fragrant, blooms in May. Suitable for foundation planting, as hedge or potted plant. Date palm Phoenix dactylifera Linn Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk tillering, up to 20-25m tall, leaves grey-white with arching curves, strong growth, beautiful tree form
Hankow willow Salix matsudana Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Suitable as courtyard shade tree, street tree, bank-protection tree
Albizia Albizia julibrissin Mimosaceae Umbrella-shaped Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as courtyard shade ornamental tree, street tree
Black pine Pinus Thumbergii Porl. Pinaceae Conical Evergreen tree, bark grey-brown, branchlets orange-yellow, needles hard and in clusters of two, long-lived
Redleaf Cherry Plum Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, Rosaceae, umbel-shaped, deciduous small tree, branchlets smooth, reddish-brown, leaves ovate, entirely purplish-red, pale pink small flowers bloom in April, drupe purple. Suitable for both solitary planting and group planting, as a backdrop.
Washingtonia Palm Washingtonia filifera Wend., Arecaceae, umbel-shaped, single trunk cylindrical, base enlarged, up to 4-8 m tall, leaf blade fan-shaped and round, grows vigorously, beautiful tree form {Maintenance measures for southern plants and date palms}.
Japanese Pagoda Tree Sophora japonica, Fabaceae, umbel-shaped, branches and leaves dense, crown broad, suitable as shade tree and street tree
Yellow Senna Cassia glauca Lam., Fabaceae, round-shaped, deciduous tree, even-pinnate compound leaves, yellow flowers, grows rapidly, beautiful tree form
Box Elder (Ash-leaved Maple) Acer negundo, Aceraceae, umbel-shaped, deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers fertile soil and cool humid climate, tolerant of smoke and dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light salinity-alkalinity, tolerant of pruning, autumn leaves yellow
Japanese Maple Acer palmatum, Aceraceae, umbel-shaped, elegant leaf shape, autumn leaves red. Suitable for garden viewing and potted cultivation.
Golden Larch Pseudolarix amabilis Rehd., Pinaceae, ovate pagoda-shaped, evergreen tree, branches and leaves spreading, leaves linear, alternate on long shoots, small leaves radiating, tree form vigorous and upright.
Bottle Palm Hyophorbe amaricaulis Mart., Arecaceae, umbel-shaped, trunk about 3 m tall, base elliptical and enlarged, forming a bottle shape, very beautiful posture
Mandarin Orange Tree Citrus reticulata, Rutaceae, round-shaped, flowers white, fruit yellow-green, fragrant. Suitable for group planting.
Chinaberry Tree Melia azedarach Linn., Meliaceae, round-shaped, deciduous tree, bark grayish-brown, bipinnate odd-pinnate compound leaves, flowers purple, grows rapidly
Snowbush Serissa serissoides, Rubiaceae, round-shaped, evergreen small shrub. Leaf color dark green, flowers snow-white, slightly pale pink. Branches and leaves slender, good texture, suitable for potted cultivation, low hedges, ground cover, flower beds, pruning and shaping.
Dragon Juniper Juniperus chinensis var. Kaituka, Hort, Cupressaceae, upright pagoda-shaped, evergreen medium tree, branches densely grown, dark green, grows robustly, lifespan very long, tree form very beautiful
Dragon-claw Pagoda Tree S. j. cv. Pendula, Fabaceae, umbel-shaped, branches drooping, suitable for garden viewing, opposite planting or row planting
Dragon-claw Willow S. m. cv. Tortuosa, Salicaceae, round-shaped, branches twisted like a dragon roaming, suitable as shade tree and ornamental tree
Pygmy Date Palm Phoenix roebelenii Brien., Arecaceae, umbel-shaped, trunk upright, 2 m tall, petioles thin and small, leaflets alternate or opposite, an excellent variety with beautiful leaves
Buddhist Pine Podocarpus macrophyllus D. Don, Podocarpaceae, long conical, evergreen tree, elegant and simple posture, can be pruned as high-grade bonsai material, or shaped into round, conical, layered forms for garden landscaping and beautification.
Masson Pine Pinus massoniana Lamb., Pinaceae, umbel-shaped, evergreen tree, trunk bark reddish-brown, winter buds brown, large trees majestic in posture
Nandina Nandina domestica, Berberidaceae, umbel-shaped, branches and leaves elegant, red berries in autumn and winter; garden viewing, can be group planted or potted. Hoop Pine Araucaria excelsa Br., Araucariaceae, conical, evergreen coniferous tree, branches whorled, lower ones drooping, leaves dark green, beautiful tree form, grows robustly
Glossy Privet Ligustrum lucidum, Oleaceae, ovate, flowers white, blooms in June. Suitable as hedge or street tree.
Chinese Fan Palm Livistona chinensis R. Br., Arecaceae, umbel-shaped, trunk upright up to 6-12 m tall, leaves round, petiole margins spiny, grows luxuriantly, posture elegant
Globe Arborvitae Juniperus chinensis cv. Globosa, Cupressaceae, broad round-shaped, shrub, no main trunk, branches clustered.
Green Maple Acer serrulatum, Aceraceae, umbel-shaped conical, deciduous tree. Trunk upright. Tree form light and graceful, can be grown into noble-shaped bonsai, an elegant street tree, landscape tree, forest bathing tree.
Boxwood B. bodinieri, Buxaceae, ovate, branches and leaves fine and dense, suitable for garden viewing. Can be group planted, used as hedge or potted. Japanese Cedar Cryptomeria japonica D. Don, Taxodiaceae, conical, ovate, round-shaped, evergreen tree. Branches whorled, graceful
Chapter Eight: "Cultivation and Maintenance of Arecaceae Plants"
Arecaceae is a very distinctive group of evergreen plants in the monocotyledon class, with stems single or clustered, upright or climbing; leaves clustered at the top of the stem, root system well developed, tolerant of drought, tolerant of barren soil, strong resistance to pests and diseases, outstanding for creating tropical-style garden landscapes. This edition will introduce its introduction, transplanting and disease control content.
Brief Introduction to the Introduction Process
There are 183 genera and about 2400 species of Arecaceae plants worldwide, widely distributed in tropical and subtropical humid regions of the world. High temperature and high humidity are important conditions for the normal growth and development of most palm plants; a few palm plants have unique adaptability to adverse environments, for example the Silver Date Palm (wild date palm) distributed in extremely arid areas at the edge of deserts, and quite a few palm species that can tolerate long-term water immersion, such as the Swamp Palm. Most palm plants are rich in fiber, with tough stems and well-developed root systems, possessing strong wind resistance, such as the Alexandra Palm and the Chinese Fan Palm.
Since the 1940s, in the construction of numerous tropical and subtropical cities worldwide, the landscape effects of palm plants have been recognized, and they have been used as key varieties for urban greening and beautification, such as in Miami in the United States, Jakarta in India, Bangkok in Thailand, as well as Cape Town in South Africa and Singapore.
Some landscaping companies in Guangdong began the work of introducing and applying palm plants in the early 1980s. Over the following more than twenty years, southern provinces and regions such as Guangxi, Fujian and Yunnan, as well as later regions such as Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shanghai, Chongqing and Yunnan, successively set off an upsurge of introducing, producing and applying palms.
Several units led by Guangdong Palm Landscape Company, based on plant geography and ecology theory, through observational research on the growth conditions and mortality rates of introduced and acclimatized Arecaceae plants, found that plants native to the Northern Hemisphere generally possess cold tolerance potential because they experienced ancient glacial climates, while species native to high-latitude, high-altitude regions of the Southern Hemisphere also have relatively strong cold tolerance. Through research on the cold tolerance and cold-tolerance mechanisms of palm plants, researchers found that the main factors affecting introduction and acclimatization are: temperature, light, humidity, water and soil, etc. The most significant effect of the temperature factor is to govern plant growth and development; low winter temperatures are the leading factor affecting the success or failure of palm plant introduction and acclimatization; through research on palm salt tolerance and shade tolerance, researchers screened out a batch of varieties with relatively strong saline-alkaline tolerance and shade tolerance; at the same time, through the control of pests and diseases such as palm Phytophthora disease, coconut leaf beetle and red palm weevil, the incidence of palm pests and diseases has been greatly reduced. In addition, researchers also studied the mechanism of palm seed germination, summarized and invented techniques for accelerating palm seed germination, mastered whole-crown transplanting of palm plants and large-specification container seedling cultivation techniques, and did effective work on techniques such as soil improvement and winter cold protection and maintenance.
At present, researchers have screened and promoted about 80 species of palm plants in South China, including Royal Palm, Chinese Fan Palm, Broadleaf Lady Palm, South Palm, Fishtail Palm, etc.; in Shanghai and surrounding areas, the Arecaceae plants successfully applied mainly include Butia Palm, Mexican Washingtonia, Canary Island Date Palm, Washington Palm and more than ten other species, and the related research techniques have been appraised by experts as reaching the world's advanced level.
Taking Washington Palm as an Example
Discussing the Occurrence and Control of Phytophthora Disease
Harm and General Symptoms of Palm Phytophthora Disease
This disease often occurs and causes harm on palm plants such as Royal Palm, Large Chinese Fan Palm, Washington Palm, Mexican Fan Palm and Canary Island Date Palm; in affected plants the heart leaf cannot emerge normally, new leaves shrink and dry up, and in severe cases the whole plant withers in patches. The pathogen of Phytophthora disease is caused by Phytophthora, and can be detected by culture in an incubator. The pathogen mainly overwinters in the soil or on diseased plant residues. The pathogen spreads through watering, rain splash, air movement, etc.
Occurrence Pattern of Washington Palm Phytophthora Disease
This disease occurs during periods of high temperature and high humidity between summer and autumn. Drought followed by rain, or poor management after transplanting, such as heavy watering, soil water content
suddenly increasing, poor ventilation, or plants located in wind-gap positions, are prone to infection. The disease is severe in low-lying, poorly drained, continuous-cropping plots. In addition, this disease is often related to severe root injury caused during seedling digging followed by long-distance transport.
When it occurs, the base of the unexpanded young tender heart leaf rots, the leaf turns grayish-green and droops, and it can be pulled out with slight force. Dissecting the stem, one can see paste-like secretions and a foul odor at the growth point and even the entire heart, and white mold-like substances can grow on the infected tissue. In severely affected plants, root damage is also often seen, with the main symptoms being blackening and rotting of the roots, with an abnormal
odor. This disease mainly occurs at the seedling stage and in nurseries, and is less common in adult trees planted in green spaces.
Symptoms
In recent years, the harm occurred relatively severely in nursery land. In the early stage of the disease, yellow-brown water-soaked lesions first appear near the ground, the lesions rapidly expand and are slightly sunken, and when moist the surface is densely covered with white cottony mold, and the diseased part rots and smells foul. When the disease occurs on leaves, the diseased part is yellow-brown, and under moist conditions white mold grows. When it occurs on stems, it is initially dark green, then expands, becomes moist and soft, and in the later stage the upper part shows withering. This disease can harm the entire palm plant. Sometimes purulent liquid oozes out when the root system and stem are cut open, and in severe cases the edges of the veins of young leaves carry large amounts of gray-black mycelium. Phytophthora disease is a vascular bundle disease; in severe cases the whole plant wilts and droops, dries up, until death, with a high fatality rate.
According to surveys, the peak period of this disease is mostly the high-temperature and high-humidity period, that is, the optimum temperature is 27°C to 35°C. For example, in 2006, the disease period in coastal areas near the Pearl River Delta was July to October, in Xiamen August to November, in Shanghai June to September (also occurring in early spring), and in the western mountainous areas of the Pearl River Delta August to November, but in all places the disease could be seen within 1 to 2 months after typhoons and rainstorms, sometimes occurring sporadically, sometimes appearing in patches.
Control Methods
I. Preventive Cultivation Measures
1. Pay attention to ventilation, drying and drainage in the nursery; leaves can be moderately pruned each autumn and winter, and pits can be opened and soil mounded at the planting site to keep the nursery land dry. Usually potassium fertilizer can be applied additionally, and quicklime, superphosphate, etc. can also be applied separately, to enhance plant tissue density and resistance to infection and improve plant disease resistance.
2. Select good plots; choose loam or sandy loam plots with high terrain and good drainage for planting.
3. Implement crop rotation; land that has been planted with Washington Palm requires rotation of three to four years or more.
4. Strengthen field management, apply more organic fertilizer, promote robust plant growth with deep roots and lush leaves, and improve resistance. Implement high-ridge (bed) cultivation. Appropriately control watering during the rainy season, drain water promptly after rain so that the ground dries after rain; water promptly during drought, and strictly prohibit flood irrigation when watering, and carry it out in the afternoon or evening on sunny days.
5. Achieve prevention first and integrated control. Pay attention to observation at ordinary times, often prune dead branches and fallen leaves, and when diseased plants are found, clean them up promptly, bury them deeply or burn them, and disinfect the diseased holes with lime.
II. Chemical Control
One to two months before the disease occurs in summer and during the disease period, use 64% Sandofan WP (1:500 to 600), 80% Fosetyl-Al (1:400), or other hymexazol-type products such as Kameitong, that is, soil fungicide (usual dosage 600 to 700 times), lime-sulfur mixture (1:1:100), Dexon (500 times), etc. for control. Specific control methods: when transplanting Washington Palm, first spray the planting site and Washington Palm roots with 600 to 700 times soil fungicide solution, or on consecutive sunny days first dig pits and expose them to the sun for sterilization, or spread lime powder for disinfection, and 500 times Dexon solution can also be used for soil disinfection.
After a typhoon, promptly spray Sandofan (better) or Fosetyl-Al (prone to resistance), adding 0.4% laundry detergent, into the heart or as a spray for both prevention and treatment. 80% Mancozeb 700 times solution can also be sprayed, once every 7 to 10 days, for two or three consecutive sprays, which can effectively prevent and control the occurrence of Phytophthora disease. After adopting this measure, the Washington Palm and Mexican Washingtonia at the Shanghai base of Guangdong Palm Landscape Company have dropped from a disease incidence of 20% in 2004 to below 10%.
Control Experience
The control effect of using carbendazim, etc. is not obvious. In the early stage of the disease, if all leaves are cut off and the plant is transplanted elsewhere, about 30% can gradually revive after 2 to 3 years, but the growth is relatively poor.
It is understood that this disease rarely occurs in high-temperature dry areas such as Los Angeles, so this disease is related to high temperature and high humidity, and the infection route is through surface water, groundwater and rainwater, etc. When the plant's root system, trunk, leaves, etc. are damaged, the pathogen invades and multiplies in large numbers when water is sufficient, ultimately causing blockage of the vascular conducting tissue, and the plant wilts and dies from water loss. The heart rot disease introduced in some literature is actually also Phytophthora disease, only occurring at the heart leaf part.
This disease is different from anthracnose, which occurs on leaves, with small water-soaked spots appearing when the disease occurs, then expanding into larger lesions, easily discovered, and generally can be controlled with agents such as carbendazim. As for leaf spot disease, it refers to diseases occurring on leaves, with common pathogens being Phyllosticta, Pestalotiopsis, etc., often causing leaf blight, but anthracnose and leaf spot disease rarely cause plant death. Transplanting Techniques for Large Single-Trunk Seedlings
Preparation Before Transplanting
1. Root-prune the seedlings to be transplanted in advance; after root pruning the soil ball size is twice the ground diameter, and the root pruning depth is 50 cm to 60 cm. Stones and broken roots should be removed from the root-pruned soil and it should be backfilled promptly, with good moisture retention: the purpose is to exercise the seedling's adaptability and promote new root growth. After root pruning it is best to leave them for more than 30 days, and transplant only when new roots begin to sprout. If heeled-in seedlings are used, the effect is even better.
2. Dig holes and prepare the soil. Dig holes at the planting site 20 days before transplanting; the hole specification is generally 1.5 times the soil ball. Let the soil from the holes be exposed to the sun in the open air for a period, and the backfill soil is best a pre-prepared mixed soil: pond mud + farmyard manure or mushroom soil + an appropriate amount of matured phosphate fertilizer + an appropriate amount of river sand, with sand:soil at 4:6.
Planting Time
In the Pearl River Delta region, transplanting can be done throughout the year, with spring and autumn being the best, and summer and winter should be avoided as much as possible, especially January and July. Most Arecaceae plants like warmth and humidity; in summer the temperature is high, seedlings evaporate water quickly, easily causing excessive water loss that affects survival; in winter the temperature is low, some places even have frost, and strong north winds easily cause seedling frostbite or even death by freezing.
Moving Seedlings
Some large single-trunk Arecaceae seedlings have relatively thick stems, the workload of moving seedlings is large, and the seedlings are very easily injured. Therefore, when moving seedlings, the trunk should be wrapped with burlap sacks or straw, especially the green wrapped trunk part at the boundary between the trunk and the petiole. First, it protects the trunk; second, it retains moisture and blocks the sun. In addition, when lifting seedlings, combine with pruning leaves, remove old leaves, and retain 40% to 45% of the leaves (specifically depending on the tree vigor). At the same time, cut off the leaves together with the petiole by 1/5, to minimize water evaporation as much as possible.
Planting
It is best to plant seedlings the same day they are dug; if the time is too long, the seedlings evaporate a lot of water, and survival is easily affected by water loss. If they cannot all be planted the same day, cover them with shade netting and spray a small amount of water on the leaf surfaces every day, doing well in shading and moisture retention.
1. Backfilling soil. Once the seedling is positioned, backfill soil. When the backfill reaches half the height of the soil ball, first firm the loose soil. After backfilling is complete, make the soil mound into a "water storage basin" with slightly higher surroundings and a slightly lower middle, to facilitate watering and moisture retention.
2. Watering. After backfilling, immediately water thoroughly to settle the roots; before watering, first use bamboo poles etc. to poke firm the loose soil around the soil ball, until the loose soil no longer sinks.
3. Fixing. There are many kinds of supports; using three bamboo poles to form a triangular support is the most economical and practical one. The tying height is at 2/3 of the trunk.
Post-Planting Management
1. Moisture retention. Spray the leaves and trunk wrapping twice a day, except on rainy days, with the degree being to wet the leaves and trunk wrapping. Do not water the roots, because excess water will flow down and accumulate, causing root rot. Cover the area around the tree base with straw to block the sun, prevent excessive soil temperature differences from causing soil compaction, and keep the soil around the soil ball loose, moist and aerated, which is conducive to new root sprouting.
2. Wind protection. Because transplanted large single-trunk palm plants are generally relatively tall, and after transplanting are often affected by thunderstorms and strong winds, the supports should be checked regularly after planting to see whether they have loosened, especially after strong winds; if the trunk is found to be tilted, it should be straightened and tied promptly.
3. Topdressing. About one month after planting, urea water can be used as foliar topdressing by spraying, with topdressing about once every half a month. After the first new leaf grows and matures, use fully decomposed peanut bran for hole fertilization. Dig the holes by opening a ring-shaped trench outside the edge of the soil ball, with the trench width and depth each 30 cm, and the fertilizer must be mixed evenly with the backfill soil.
4. Pest and disease control. Newly transplanted large single-trunk Arecaceae seedlings are relatively weak in tree vigor and extremely susceptible to pests and diseases, especially tender leaves and heart leaves. For insect control, 5% methamidophos plus 5% omethoate can be applied. At present, the invasive pest "coconut leaf beetle" causes quite serious harm to Arecaceae plants; adults and larvae concentrate in the overlapping spaces of the not-yet-unfolded heart leaves and gnaw the leaf flesh, causing part or all of the newly emerging leaves to die, and affected plants grow slowly or even die. Control methods include the following: ① 81% malathion emulsion 1000 times solution; ② cypermethrin 500 times solution; ③ use "Yejiaqing", all of which can achieve very good control effects. Based on actual operation, the author believes the simplest, most convenient and long-lasting method is to hang a packet of "Yejiaqing" on the heart leaf in combination with tying during planting.
About one month after planting large single-trunk Arecaceae seedlings, whether they have survived can be roughly determined based on whether their leaves remain green, but to truly determine survival, generally one must wait until after one growing season, using whether new shoots and new roots have emerged as the standard. After the author adopted the above transplanting techniques in construction, the transplanting survival rate increased from the original 75% to above 90%, and the above techniques are highly operable and necessary to promote and apply.
Transplanting Techniques for Seedlings, Large Trees and Clustered Seedlings
Key Techniques for Transplanting Seedlings
Palm plants are most suitable for transplanting during a period after they germinate and take root. At this time the seedlings are relatively small and can be transplanted with the seeds, and in addition they have few fibrous roots, so the root system is not easily damaged when moving seedlings. Use nutrient bags for raising seedlings, with the size depending on the seedling cultivation time; generally speaking, 1-year-old seedlings are suitable with 16 cm x 18 cm containers, and 2-year-old seedlings with 19 cm x 20 cm; nutrient bags that are too small are not conducive to rapid seedling growth. The nutrient soil is prepared with loose topsoil, burnt soil and wheat bran, mixed evenly in a 5:2:1 ratio with a small amount of phosphate fertilizer, then bagged. First fill half a bag with the mixed soil, then place the seedling, then hold the seedling upright, fill it full and press firm, so that the seedling root system is closely attached to the mixed soil, and water thoroughly. Palm plants cannot be planted too deep, otherwise it will affect seedling growth. If too deep, lift the seedling upward so that the seedling root system spreads out.
Key Techniques for Transplanting Large Trees
Arecaceae plants are cultivated in nurseries for 5 to 10 years, and most need several rounds of bed transplanting, so selecting sparse-planted strong seedlings gives a relatively high survival rate.
Reduce damage to the root mass. Palm plant root tissue is tender, with many lateral roots and capillary roots; when digging, carry as large a soil ball as possible, and prevent it from loosening and cracking. Minimize root mass damage as much as possible, so as to maintain normal respiration and water absorption capacity and improve transplanting survival rate. During construction, lines should be set and holes positioned accurately to avoid rework and prevent the soil ball from loosening.
Leaf pruning. The amount of leaves retained during transplanting should be comprehensively determined according to different species, the climate at transplanting time, and transplanting and maintenance conditions, etc.
Generally about 40% of the original leaf count should be retained. Retaining too many leaves will cause leaves to yellow and dry due to high water evaporation; retaining too few leaves makes plant recovery difficult and the cycle long, and the initial landscape effect is also poor.
Protect the plant's stem and its pseudostem. During the processes of digging, carrying, loading and unloading the plant, the stem should be protected from damage, and the pseudostem part should not be squeezed or bent; this is the guarantee of plant health and rapid recovery.
Soil at the new planting site. Arecaceae plants suffer root tip damage during transplanting, and it is very difficult for new root tips to sprout within one month after transplanting, so water absorption capacity is weak. At this time, if the soil has good permeability and aeration, it is conducive to seedling survival, so when planting, dig large holes and pay attention to the quality of imported soil, adding peat soil and compound fertilizer, to facilitate palm recovery after planting.
Maintenance. Within one month after planting, the plant has poor adaptability, so the seedlings should be carefully maintained, water must be supplemented promptly and shading should be appropriate, striving to make new leaves sprout within three months. If continuous rainy weather occurs after transplanting, palm seedlings will recover relatively well, because rainy days can avoid adverse factors such as scorching sun exposure.
Key Techniques for Transplanting Large Clustered Seedlings
Clustered species of Arecaceae plants have multiple growth points, and after growing into a multi-trunk clustered state, they can grow new roots relatively quickly after transplanting. But clustered palms also have disadvantages such as large water evaporation due to heavy trunks and large leaf area, and susceptibility to strong wind damage due to poor ventilation. Therefore, in addition to the measures for transplanting single-trunk palms, the following technical measures should be added:
1. Implement the "hairy root method" for transplanting, that is, after digging a relatively large soil ball, use a small shovel to remove part of the soil along the outer edge of the soil ball, retain more fibrous roots and a moderate soil ball, and immediately wrap it with moisture-retaining lightweight material, to reduce the weight of the soil ball while ensuring survival. For example, this method can be used for transplanting clustered palms that recover relatively slowly, such as Fishtail Palm and Three-stamen Areca.
2. Implement bare-root heeling-in or potting for centralized maintenance until new roots sprout and the plant stabilizes, and only then formally plant. This method is suitable for robust clustered palms such as Areca Palm, Ptychosperma elegans and Hawaiian Palm, and can reduce transport costs and facilitate construction.
In short, for transplanting large seedlings and large trees of Arecaceae plants, in brief, do well in five aspects, namely: select strong seedlings; dig the soil ball well and transport and plant carefully; prune leaves moderately; ensure aeration and drainage at the planting site; and do well in post-planting maintenance, sun protection and moisture retention. The sign for judging the success of transplanting large seedlings and large trees is being able to retain most leaves and sprout new leaves within half a year after planting, among which sprouting three healthy new leaves is complete transplanting success
Drainage: first understand the hydrological conditions of the planting site, try to place the very bottom of the soil ball at a position 100-150CM above the year-round groundwater level of the planting site and with deep fertile soil, and at the same time do well in the subsurface soil ball root drainage layer and surface runoff guidance network to prevent water accumulation in the soil ball after planting; if the hydrological conditions cannot meet the requirements, the method of planting with a raised soil ball can be used, that is, first pile up the planting site with loose medium mixed with fertile soil or coarse sand, try to meet the above requirements, then place the plant on the soil mound, and fill and bury the soil ball with mixed loose soil or planting soil mixed with humus soil; remove debris from the soil around the planting site, or appropriately improve the soil with loose medium, to achieve the condition of making the plant roots loose and breathable; strengthen inspections during the rainy season, promptly clear drainage facilities and appropriately loosen the soil at the roots, to facilitate waterlogging prevention and drainage accumulation. Moisture retention: after planting, water once immediately to settle the roots, ensuring the soil ball roots are moist and closely combined with the surrounding soil, promoting root development, then water thoroughly three more times and cover the soil ball promptly to prevent the surface soil from cracking. In hot summer, also spray more water on the ground and canopy to increase environmental humidity and reduce transpiration; leaf surface moisture retention treatment includes a. newly planted seedlings should have leaves appropriately pruned to reduce the transpiration area of the leaves; b. appropriately spray antitranspirants on the leaves to inhibit the plant's physiological metabolism and reduce the plant's physiological water loss; c. under sunny weather conditions, spray atomized water on the leaves as much as possible to strengthen the leaves' absorption of water and weaken transpiration; check the moisture status of the soil ball and roots at any time and replenish water promptly, ensuring the soil ball is moist and the root respiration is unobstructed. Fertilization: after planting, in addition to maintaining moisture for the plant, appropriately spray low-concentration foliar fertilizer to strengthen post-planting nutritional supplementation; frequently check the root sprouting status of the plant, and if new roots are found growing, consider increasing root fertilization, generally choosing the season when the monthly average temperature is higher than 20°C, mainly applying organic fertilizer, with an appropriate additional application of compound fertilizer high in P and K, to promote balanced plant nutrition and ensure its rapid recovery and healthy growth. Pest and disease control: spray pesticides to control pests and diseases before the seedlings leave the nursery, and after arriving at the site, the plants also need to be sprayed with pesticides before unloading, and ensure three consecutive pesticide applications at intervals of one week to ten days within one month after planting, and afterward a pest and disease control plan still needs to be reasonably formulated. Special
Chapter Nine: "Maintenance Plan"
Steradian (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd. Greening
Main
ten
ance
Plan
Nanjing Gensen Flowers and Trees Co., Ltd.
October 8, 2010
Project Overview
"Steradian (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd." is located at No. 31 Hengfei Road, Nanjing Economic and Technological Development Zone, with a factory green space area of 28,186 sq m. The factory green space plant configuration is relatively reasonable, rich in color, with obvious seasonal changes, forming a plant community with distinct layers and natural ecology, basically showing the natural landscape of plants; the configuration of flowering shrubs and hedges among the factory buildings gives each factory area a different landscape style. The factory area has planted dozens of plant varieties such as Camphor, Southern Magnolia, Zelkova, Osmanthus and Crape Myrtle, among which there is a tree-lined avenue composed of large-specification Camphor, and a gatehouse scenic spot composed of varieties such as ancient Red Maple, Pomegranate, Midget Crabapple, Ginkgo and Canary Island Date Palm.
In view of the existing situation of the factory green landscape, we believe that the initial greening construction was relatively extensive, with insufficient understanding of plant habits, especially the replacement of planting soil in the green space was not in place, and in some areas the garbage soil was not replaced, resulting in poor plant growth.
Greening Maintenance Plan Arrangement
January (Minor Cold, Major Cold)
1. Shaping and pruning of fruit trees.
2. Often pay attention to checking cold protection equipment, facilities and seedling cold protection wrapping.
3. Turn the soil for winter plowing, apply sufficient winter fertilizer.
4. Cut off dead, residual, diseased and pest branches and leaves, thoroughly remove overwintering bagworm cases, slug moth cocoons and latent overwintering pests.
February (Start of Spring, Rain Water)
1. Continue winter pruning of deciduous trees and fruit trees.
2. Continue cutting off diseased and pest branches, and pay attention to observing the occurrence of pests and diseases (such as cottony cushion scale, giant mealybug, etc.).
3. Continue accumulating fertilizer and making compost, preparing culture soil, and continue applying winter fertilizer to various deciduous trees. March (Awakening of Insects, Spring Equinox)
The weather gradually warms, many pests and diseases are about to occur; maintain and repair various insecticide and disease prevention equipment and prepare medicines. Pay attention to the occurrence of aphids and giant mealybugs, and achieve timely control. April (Clear and Bright, Grain Rain)
1. Do well in the control of pests such as scale insects, mites, cutworms, white grubs and mole crickets, and diseases such as powdery mildew and rust.
2. Do well in loosening soil, weeding and pre-flowering fertilization. Apply light fertilizer to perennial flowers and spring-sown herbaceous flowers every week.
3. Do well in bud removal and pruning of trees. Remove excess tender buds and improperly positioned branches at any time.
4. Clear and repair the drainage system.
May (Start of Summer, Grain Full)
1. Perform post-flowering pruning and hedge pruning on shrubs that bloom in spring; according to technical operation requirements, perform bud removal and pruning on trees, and prune and remove sprouts at the roots of small seedlings at any time.
2. Continue to strengthen the maintenance and management of trees, do a good job in replanting, thinning and final singling of seedlings, and increase the application of supplementary fertilizer and apply light fertilizer frequently.
3. This month the temperature gradually rises, and pests and diseases cause extensive damage to trees and flowers. Attention should be paid to forecasting and monitoring pest outbreaks, and pest and disease prevention work should be done well.
4. Carry out lawn mowing and continue to remove weeds from the lawn.
June (Grain in Ear, Summer Solstice)
1. This month enters the plum rain season, with high temperatures and high humidity, so replanting should be carried out promptly.
2. Carry out post-bloom pruning and fertilization for flowering shrubs, and pinch and prune some spring-sown herbaceous flowers.
3. Continue to remove weeds and continue mowing.
4. Do a good job in pest and disease control. This month focus on controlling pests such as bagworms, slug moths, tussock moths, inchworms, and tortoise wax scales, as well as leaf spot disease, anthracnose, and sooty mold.
July (Minor Heat, Major Heat)
1. This month the weather is hot and weeds grow quickly, so continue intertillage and weeding and loosening the soil.
2. Pests such as bagworms, slug moths, longhorn beetles, tortoise wax scales, armored scales, the second generation of cottony cushion scales, and mites occur in large numbers, so attention should be paid to their control, while continuing to prevent and control anthracnose, powdery mildew, leaf spot disease, and so on.
3. During the dog days, when temperatures are high and rainfall is low, irrigation is needed to combat drought. This month is also a month with relatively many rainstorms, so attention should be paid to waterlogging prevention.
4. This month enters the typhoon and tidal flood season, so typhoon prevention and flood control work should be done well, with frequent inspections and timely righting of wind-thrown trees.
August (Start of Autumn, End of Heat)
1. Continue intertillage and weeding and loosening the soil.
2. Continue to do a good job in drought prevention and drainage to ensure the normal growth of seedlings.
3. This month the seedlings grow vigorously, so fertilizer should be applied promptly, and for small seedlings, light fertilizer should be applied frequently.
4. Continue to do a good job in typhoon prevention and flood control, and promptly right wind-thrown trees when found.
5. Continue to do a good job in pest and disease control, and conscientiously prevent and control the main pests harmful to trees (bagworms, second-generation slug moths, longhorn beetles, mites, etc.) and the main diseases (powdery mildew, anthracnose, leaf spot disease, etc.).
September (White Dew, Autumn Equinox)
1. Continue to do a good job in eliminating pests and diseases; in particular, frequently inspect the occurrence of aphids, wood boring moths, and so on, and once found, control them immediately.
2. Continue intertillage and weeding, continue to remove weeds from the lawn, carry out lawn mowing, and carry out shaping and pruning of topiary and hedges.
3. Continue to do a good job in pest and disease control. In particular, inspect the situation of relatively common pests and diseases such as aphids, bagworms, slug moths, brown spot disease, and sooty mold on flowering shrubs, and control them promptly.
October (Cold Dew, Frost's Descent)
1. Do a good job in pest and disease control and eliminate various adult insects and eggs.
2. Continue intertillage and weeding.
3. After seedlings stop growing, check the survival rate and gain a clear understanding of the stock to ensure the smooth progress of winter and spring landscaping work.
November (Start of Winter, Minor Snow)
1. Do a good job in cold protection, whitewashing some trees, or wrapping them with straw rope.
2. Carry out winter pruning of trees, cutting off diseased branches and dead branches; branches with insect eggs as well as competing branches and over