How to propagate Lantana camara? Analysis of cutting key points, both terminal buds and softwood shoots work

Lantana camara can be cultivated artificially or grown in the wild. If kept at home, it can serve the ornamental value among the functions and benefits of Lantana camara. Whether grown in the open ground or in pots, once Lantana camara reaches a certain stage, propagation needs to be considered. So how do you propagate Lantana camara? Let's look at the propagation methods for Lantana camara.

How to propagate Lantana camara

Generally, the propagation methods for Lantana camara include cuttings, sowing and layering. What they have in common is that spring and autumn are the best times, while the difference is that cuttings suit small-scale home growing, whereas sowing suits large-scale greenhouse cultivation.

How to take cuttings of Lantana camara

1. When to take cuttings

The ideal time is spring and autumn, such as March-April or September-October. Propagating at this time does not affect the flowering of Lantana camara, and the survival rate is relatively high. Summer happens to be the flowering period of Lantana camara; taking cuttings then not only affects the ornamental value but also gives a relatively low survival rate, so summer is not a suitable choice.

2. Cutting method for Lantana camara

1. Making the cuttings

Cut off the inflorescences on the Lantana camara plant, then select from the top 1-2 year old branches that are relatively vigorous and have relatively short internodes, because they root faster than semi-hardwood cuttings and are easier to keep moist.

Either the terminal bud or a softwood shoot of the branch can be used as a cutting. If using the terminal bud as the cutting, choose a branch 5-9 cm long with 3 nodes, then cut off the first pair of leaves at the lower part of the branch. If using a softwood shoot as the cutting, keep 3-5 leaves and cut off all the rest.

2. Taking the cutting

After making the cuttings, how do you propagate Lantana camara? Insert the cuttings into the prepared potting soil, gently firm the soil around the cuttings with soil, then water immediately to make sure the soil is thoroughly watered, but do not let water accumulate in the soil, then place in a ventilated, bright spot for care.

If the cuttings are well chosen, rooting generally takes 2-3 weeks. After rooting, they can be moved into a substrate for seedling raising. Once the root ball has formed, transplant them, and afterward follow the cultivation methods for Lantana camara for normal management.

How to sow Lantana camara

1. Sowing time

Sowing can be done in spring or autumn. For spring sowing of Lantana camara, the seeds used are generally those collected in the autumn of the year before last; for autumn sowing, sow immediately after collecting, that is, sow right after collecting the seeds.

2. Sowing method

Soak the seeds in warm water for 15-30 minutes, then mix them into fine sand, so that they can be sown evenly during sowing, and at the same time the seeds are less likely to lose water and vitality, enabling them to germinate faster.

Scatter the seeds on a sand bed, then cover with a layer of soil 2-3 mm thick, then water appropriately so that the water can penetrate to the bottom of the sand bed and keep the soil slightly moist. Wait until they root before raising the seedlings, and from sowing to flowering often takes some time.

How to propagate Lantana camara by cuttings

Cutting propagation time for Lantana camara

It can be done all year round, but it is best in spring and autumn; the survival rate of summer cuttings is relatively low.

Cutting selection for Lantana camara propagation

When taking cuttings of Lantana camara, first cut off the inflorescences and select healthy, plump branches with short internodes. Terminal bud and softwood shoot cuttings root much faster than semi-hardwood cuttings; if moisture-retention protection is not done in time, the branches easily dehydrate.

The standard cuttings include terminal bud cuttings and softwood shoot cuttings. When using terminal bud cuttings, select a branch with a terminal bud, 3 nodes and a length of 5-9 cm. The first pair of leaves growing at the lower part of the branch can be cut off, or part of the leaves can be cut off to reduce water evaporation.

When using softwood shoot cuttings, keep as many leaves as possible and prune appropriately; a seedling pot can be used for raising seedlings.

Cutting propagation method for Lantana camara

Prepare the cutting container and soil, water the soil thoroughly, then put the prepared cuttings into the soil, paying attention to keeping the soil moist.

Rooting of the cuttings takes 14-21 days. After the cuttings have rooted, they can be moved into a round pot with a 7.5 cm diameter for seedling raising. After the root ball has grown out, plant them into flower pots with a 12.5 cm or 20 cm diameter. After the plant grows larger, through several pinchings and prunings, it can become a spherical Lantana camara, improving its ornamental value.

Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key points for spring flower planting

Flower Planting Manual (February edition)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and also the cold period second only to January in the year. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition toward spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to the recovery stage. The main flower tasks this month are as follows: first, continue the work of cold protection and heat preservation for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowers after flowering; third, do the preliminary preparation work for cuttings, grafting propagation and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. In February, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels include: Calendula officinalis, Cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, Asparagus fern, Gloxinia, tuberous begonia, Carthamus, cornflower, Gaillardia, strawflower, Salvia splendens, marigold, dwarf petunia, California poppy, Phlox, Calceolaria, Schizanthus, snapdragon, Tropaeolum, pansy, etc. By the end of February, those that can be sown outdoors in the open ground include: seeds of Magnolia, Michelia, Photinia, Acer, and Malus (Rosaceae) that have been sand-stored and have already cracked and shown white; also Cinnamomum camphora, Liriodendron, Ligustrum, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, palm, Koelreuteria, Sapindus, Aesculus, Syringa, etc.; seeds of Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus, Wisteria, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tubers of tuberose and bulbs of Hippeastrum can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. In February, woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings in the open ground or by cuttings covered with plastic film for moisture retention include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches of cultivars such as Gongfen and Lue), Nandina, Hibiscus mutabilis (southern regions), Lagerstroemia, Daphne (southern regions), Edgeworthia, pomegranate, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum, Serissa, Hibiscus syriacus, Hypericum (plum), Spiraea, Mahonia, Buxus, Lespedeza, etc. Sand-stored branches of Syringa and Campsis can also be cut at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela, Deutzia, Hydrangea, Tamarix, Platanus, grape, fig, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for cutting at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be cut indoors in February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), Begonia maculata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Salvia splendens, Pelargonium, Jasmine, Chloranthus, Citrus medica, Crassula ovata, Kalanchoe, Echeveria, Graptopetalum, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum, Pilea, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera, Aglaonema, Cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust seedling black pine as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, Pinus bungeana, etc., then plant in the ground and cover with film for heat and moisture retention. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock for cut grafting to propagate Prunus cerasifera, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. In regions south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on Chimonanthus praecox branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use Chimonanthus praecox seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock, and cut-graft excellent cultivars of Chimonanthus praecox such as "Suxin", "Xinkou" and "Huti", adopting the measure of bagging and inflating for moisture retention, which gives a relatively high survival rate. Using robust branches of the rose cultivar "Elizabeth" as rootstock scions, cut-graft or cleft-graft scions of excellent rose cultivars, and adopt the measures of grafting first, then cutting, then covering with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection, which can greatly increase the grafting survival rate.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Gardenia, Weigela, Podocarpus, Sabina, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Hypericum, Hydrangea, Spiraea, Spiraea thunbergii, red maple, Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Iris, Belamcanda, Zephyranthes, Ophiopogon, Liriope, variegated Liriope, Reineckea, Rohdea, Dicentra, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, small taro orchid, bromeliads, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis, spider plant, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Canna, Maranta, Monstera, Syngonium, Strelitzia, Clivia, Aloe, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Nandina, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hypericum, Mahonia, Hydrangea, Chaenomeles speciosa, Edgeworthia, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Caragana, Spiraea thunbergii, red-flowered Spiraea, Jasmine, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Osmanthus fragrans, Bambusa multiplex, Sasaella, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds of Nandina, holly species, Ardisia crenata, winter cherry, etc. can be picked, then treated and sand-stored for germination. Sowing can be done only after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For Clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various sand-stored flower and tree seeds to see whether any seeds have become moldy. If mold occurs, clean them in time; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with spraying water to maintain a certain humidity in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds are found to have already cracked and shown white, they should be sown within a relatively short time. Once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle, affecting the seedling emergence rate of the seeds. Large sand-stored seeds can be sown by dibbling, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or adding plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and temperatures are relatively high, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and planted out include: Dianthus species, snapdragon, hollyhock, variegated holly, daisy, Calendula, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be planted out. Among them, deciduous types such as Hibiscus syriacus, pomegranate, Cercis, Malus species, Ginkgo, Liquidambar, Acer species, Wisteria, Lagerstroemia, Chimonanthus praecox, plum blossom (before sprouting and leafing out), Magnolia species, Sapindus, Albizia, Aesculus, Prunus cerasifera, cherry blossom, Chaenomeles, Campsis, Tilia, Liriodendron, ornamental peach, Sapium sebiferum, Spiraea, Triadica, Deutzia, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum (plum), weeping willow, golden weeping willow, Hibiscus mutabilis, Cotinus coggygria, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia species, Cinnamomum camphora, Elaeocarpus, Ilex, Machilus, Phoebe sheareri, etc., can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; Osmanthus, Ligustrum, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis cv. Kaizuca, Platycladus orientalis, black pine, etc., should be given moderate pruning when planting.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (in-tunnel) care, potted ornamental plants have consumed relatively large amounts of nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the plants has greatly decreased, so the work of moisture retention and cold protection should continue to be done carefully. Greenhouses or plastic tunnels with heating facilities should continue to be heated, and harmful gases or smoke should be prevented from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; those with straw curtains hung on the top or around the tunnel can continue to hang straw curtains; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, one must not take it lightly.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities, ventilation and air exchange should continue to be done well. Especially by the end of February, the ventilation and air exchange time can be extended during the period of highest temperature in the day. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to put them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For cold-sensitive flowers kept in small quantities in the home, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea, Syngonium, Begonia masoniana, Codiaeum variegatum, etc., in particularly cold weather, plastic bags can be put over them at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom and heating appliances such as a "bath heater" can be turned on to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. In February, because the temperature is relatively low, for the vast majority of potted flowers it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plant. For relatively dry indoor spaces, frequently spray water and mist on the leaves of the plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases the leaves lose green color and luster and the flower buds stop growing; in severe cases the leaves shrink and wrinkle and the flower buds shrivel and fall off. For example, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, plum blossom, Citrus aurantium, kumquat, winter cherry, etc. may all show bud drop and fruit drop, or even die. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor or in-tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Cineraria, Primula, Kalanchoe, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, Calendula, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as Pyracantha, Nandina, Citrus aurantium, Citrus medica, lemon, Ardisia crenata, four-season mandarin, winter cherry, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds and fruits. Only in this way can the leaves be emerald green, the flower buds rapidly expand, and the fruits be brightly colored. Especially for tree peonies, plum blossoms, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. placed in plastic tunnels for forcing, water must also be sprayed on the branches 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For Cymbidium purchased back from cultivation in greenhouses or plastic tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse or plastic tunnel differ greatly from those in the home, if water is not frequently sprayed on the leaves, the leaves often become wrinkled and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, the potting soil must be kept moist, and water should be sprayed on the plants 1 to 2 times a day; otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    In February, although most potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened. Especially when the temperature continues to rise for several days in a row, supplementary watering and spraying should be carried out in a timely manner.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, supplementary watering should be carried out in time. Especially for those evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, water should also be appropriately sprayed on the leaves around noon on clear days to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off afterward and affecting the recovery growth in spring.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, base fertilizer can continue to be buried and applied to most ground-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken dung and pigeon droppings, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. A ring-shaped trench can be dug from the outer periphery of the plant root system, applied, and then covered with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (plastic tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Cineraria, Primula, Cyclamen, Belgian azalea, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne, plum blossom, European narcissus, hyacinth, tulip, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Neoregelia, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia, etc., low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate can continue to be applied as a top dressing to benefit plant growth and flower bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, and stump bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

    4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted plum blossoms, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, strong rejuvenation pruning can be carried out. For branches that have flowered, leave only 2 to 3 buds at the base and cut off all the rest, prompting them to produce many new shoots in the current year and even denser branches and buds the next year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and malformed branches should also be pruned at the same time. For stump bonsai types mainly shaped by pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ficus, Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Xylosma, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, Elaeagnus, Ilex cornuta, holly, Serissa, Juniperus rigida, Juniperus, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them while pruning.

    5. Repotting. Late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is resuming growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted by the end of February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasmine, Chloranthus, Brunfelsia, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Nephrolepis, Monstera, Ficus elastica, Fuchsia, Begonia maculata, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia rex, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cycas, Clivia, Haworthia, Aloe, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Sedum, Crassula ovata, Kalanchoe, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Hippeastrum, Asparagus fern, spider plant, Araucaria, Schefflera, Rohdea, Strelitzia, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtoceras, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hydrangea, Nandina, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium, Maranta, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, Citrus aurantium, kumquat, Citrus medica, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted Cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold appearing on the leaves of Primula, at the early stage of disease, choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution and spray, once every 10 days, 2 to 3 consecutive sprays being sufficient.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted Cyclamen in plastic tunnels, 50% iprodione (main component iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution can be sprayed.

For potted Belgian azaleas in plastic tunnels, foliar spraying of foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao" should be stopped, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer sprayed on the plant leaves is difficult to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases can form unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as Citrus aurantium and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush, and when there are many insects they can be sprayed and killed with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution. After the aphids, scale insects and ants are killed, the sooty mold will also be eliminated accordingly.

For insect bodies such as, white peach scale, oystershell scale, black brown round scale, etc. appearing on potted flower plants in plastic tunnels, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or sprayed and killed with 2.5% cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% aldicarb granules in the flower pot.

Continue to clean up dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted flower plants, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or water vat, add clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that it can be diluted during the growing season and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc. After about 2 months, spread it out to dry in the sun. After it is fully dried, pack it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried cake fertilizer in granular powder form can be scattered in flower pots as a top dressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya and other potted flower species, it is more convenient than watering with liquid cake fertilizer. Especially when growing flowers on a balcony, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used for preparing culture soil.

    8. Turning and freezing the soil. In early February, garden plots that have not yet been plowed can continue to be turned. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, trenches can then be opened and beds made for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include Sabina, Podocarpus, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus rigida, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus chinensis, Ginkgo, Serissa, Juniperus procumbens, Japanese white pine, Pinus taiwanensis, black pine, Pinus densiflora, Adina rubella, Caragana, small golden coin plum, Corylopsis, Chaenomeles speciosa, Lagerstroemia, Ficus, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, etc.

Continue to re-wire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If sunken binding constriction marks are found on the plant, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, and replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, rock-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing and cracking apart, causing undue losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March edition)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the area in front of your courtyard is open and broad, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain degree, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively sun-loving and have relatively high requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, Ginkgo, Osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, Chaenomeles, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, persimmon, Hibiscus mutabilis, Liriodendron, plum blossom, rose, fig, Camellia japonica, Lagerstroemia, tree peony, pomegranate, Wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, Nandina, red maple, Cercis, Hibiscus syriacus, Canary date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, then you should choose some flower and tree species adapted to shady and damp conditions, such as palm, Photinia, Aucuba, French holly, Ligustrum, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina chinensis cv. Kaizuca, Elaeocarpus, Podocarpus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis, cedar, Chimonanthus praecox, banana, clustered bamboo, etc. No matter what the light is like in your courtyard and whether it is dry or wet, when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees you should note the following points: first, the lowest temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid cold damage; second, they should be adapted to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid not adapting to the environment; third, they should have relatively few pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to hinder the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-sized plants, which can achieve greening and beautification effects earlier, such as Ginkgo, Japanese fir, Osmanthus, plum blossom, Podocarpus, etc., whose height should not be lower than 2 m; eighth, leave some vacant land for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are relatively many species of herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include Dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, Gomphrena globosa, Celosia, marigold, hollyhock, Impatiens, lupine, daisy, Calendula, corn poppy, Zephyranthes, dahlia, etc. Herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant species that are relatively shade-tolerant include: Ophiopogon, Liriope, Reineckea, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Lycoris, Rohdea, Tradescantia spathacea, Aspidistra, Iris, Acorus, Saxifraga, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potting in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, you can choose to plant some flower species requiring relatively meticulous management, such as plum blossom, Aglaia odorata, Camellia japonica, poinsettia, Chimonanthus praecox, Belgian azalea, Araucaria, Brazilian iron, money tree, king coconut, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, Jasmine, Ardisia crenata, bromeliads, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon phoenix wood), Fagraea ceilanica (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum species (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, Primula, Cymbidium, Anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, Cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Clivia, Epipremnum aureum, Fittonia, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium, Citrus medica, Citrus aurantium, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, Calceolaria, Caryota, Areca palm, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poor conditions, you can grow some types requiring relatively extensive management, such as Nandina, Cycas, Rhapis, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hippeastrum, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Caragana, Serissa, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans, cacti, Asparagus fern, Ficus elastica, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum, Monstera, Philodendron, Schefflera, Pilea, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Bougainvillea, Euphorbia, Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Ficus, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: Lagerstroemia, Cercis, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus, red maple, Liriodendron. The seeds of the latter five all need to be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown and raised after sand storage for germination include: Cycas, Ginkgo, Podocarpus, Livistona, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia species, Osmanthus, Aesculus, Nandina, holly species, pomegranate, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Impatiens, marigold, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, four-season Primula, Malva species, Mirabilis jalapa, Strelitzia, Clivia, Asparagus fern, etc. Some cold-intolerant species should be sown under plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cuttings. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum, Portulacaria afra, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Hydrangea, Nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, Salix gracilistyla, Hypericum, Podocarpus, pomegranate, fig, Fatsia japonica, Gardenia, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Sabina, Daphne, Pyracantha, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should be taken in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1 to 2 year old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side-graft to propagate Japanese white pine, Osaka pine, etc.; using 1 to 2 year old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliiflora seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft to propagate Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1 year old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select scions of excellent cultivars of Chimonanthus praecox, carry out cut grafting and give bagging for moisture retention, which gives a relatively high survival rate; using Hylocereus undatus as rootstock, graft to propagate Schlumbergera and various cactus ball types, preferably in plastic tunnels. In addition, Camellia japonica, cherry blossom, Osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be grafted in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, red maple, Podocarpus, Sabina, upright cypress, Michelia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball, Gardenia, Osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchid grasses, Dicentra, Aspidistra, Asparagus fern, Cycas, Nandina, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Sansevieria, purple triangular oxalis, large-flowered Canna, Alpinia, dahlia, Strelitzia, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and planting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting of plum blossom, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Liriodendron, red maple, etc. should be arranged as far as possible before the plants sprout and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, the branches and leaves should be pruned somewhat to reduce transpiration and increase the survival rate; for Chimonanthus praecox, Lagerstroemia, Cercis, Hibiscus syriacus, Aesculus, ornamental peach, Prunus cerasifera, cherry blossom, etc., even after sprouting is acceptable, but appropriate pruning should also be done. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, when transplanting, a sufficient and complete soil ball should be taken; generally the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not buried with fertilizer in winter, before they have sprouted, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer periphery of their root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure and chicken dung and pigeon droppings, etc., or multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning away dead branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, and overgrown flowering branches, for one-year-old branches, cut them off 2 to 3 cm from the base, leaving only 2 to 3 buds. Through strong rejuvenation pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, favoring flowering in the coming year. For Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, etc., after flowering, prune away branches that damage the plant shape, and at the same time prune away some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus, etc. that form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve the ventilation and light transmission of the plant.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on the plant that have already been infected by pests or diseases, cut them off in time and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year; for some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as rose, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, grape, Malus halliana, etc., spraying Bordeaux mixture in time after leaf expansion can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust, etc.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and planted out in March include: Dianthus, snapdragon, Calendula, daisy, hollyhock, Malva, variegated Liriope, Zephyranthes, Zephyranthes candida, Iris, Reineckea, Ophiopogon, red-flowered oxalis, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or herbaceous flowers transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have already resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted Chimonanthus praecox, plum blossom, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Pyracantha, Japanese white pine, Nandina, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma, Fraxinus chinensis, etc. placed in the open, repotting can be done before they sprout and leaf out, replacing the soil with fresh, loose, fertile culture soil rich in organic matter, laying a foundation for spring and summer growth. For Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, rose, Jasmine, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Strelitzia, Cycas, poinsettia, Camellia sasanqua, Camellia japonica, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, Citrus aurantium, Citrus medica, lemon, Monstera, Philodendron, Clivia, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium, Maranta, etc. placed indoors, repotting should be done before they are moved out.

(2) Hardening. In regions north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor care in March, and both cold protection and ventilation must be given equal attention. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, heat preservation and cold protection work must continue in early and mid-March. In late March, doors and windows of the room can be opened during the day for ventilation and air exchange, and closed at night, so that Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, Jasmine, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, poinsettia, Monstera, Syngonium podophyllum, Ficus elastica, Araucaria, etc. can gradually receive hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding the influence of too early sprouting on growth and normal flowering in the current year. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, heat preservation and cold protection work still needs to continue this month, and one must not take it lightly.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Jasmine, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, Cycas, Ficus elastica, Caryota, Areca palm, Codiaeum variegatum, Asparagus fern, Begonia species, carry out necessary pruning in combination with repotting, including cutting off diseased and insect-infested branches, dead branches, malformed branches, weak branches and some yellowed leaves, etc. For Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus, Juniperus chinensis, Pinus taiwanensis, black pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma, Syzygium buxifolium, etc. mainly appreciated for their stumps, wiring and pruning can also be carried out in March before sprouting, to further improve their shape. For plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, Forsythia, etc., strong rejuvenation pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, nor for all to live on the first floor with a relatively good small environment for growing flowers. More often, people grow some relatively resistant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting are of one type relatively drought-tolerant plant species; their surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or the plant body is fleshy and thick and contains relatively more sap, or the leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like shapes, with very little transpiration consuming water, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and are therefore very drought-tolerant, such as Cycas, cacti (Opuntia microdasys, Cereus, Crassula, Echinocactus grusonii, large columnar cactus, Astrophytum, Aporocactus, coral tree), Portulacaria afra, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum, Pereskia, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, etc. There are also Chimonanthus praecox, winter jasmine, Lycoris, Spathiphyllum, Aglaonema, spider plant, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are relatively suitable for balcony planting. Another type is flower species relatively tolerant of direct sunlight and dry hot winds, able to accept full light and resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, also suitable for balcony pot cultivation (especially on high-floor balconies), such as pomegranate, rose, Ficus, Ligustrum quihoui, Agave, Hippeastrum, Sageretia thea, Xylosma, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, black pine, Juniperus rigida, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis cv. Kaizuca, Ilex cornuta, holly, Vitex negundo, Euonymus, longevity peach, Portulaca grandiflora, etc. In addition, Jasmine, Chloranthus, Japanese white pine, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra, Citrus medica, Citrus aurantium, lemon, Ficus elastica, Monstera, Philodendron, Camellia japonica, Schefflera, Araucaria, etc. can also be used as slightly lower-level balcony pot plants, but water and shade management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as Salvia splendens, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, marigold, Impatiens, dwarf petunia, etc., can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of Asparagus fern or Clivia seeds has been collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, move them to the outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, coral tree, Crassula, etc. can be cut indoors at this time in plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flower pot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as the cutting substrate, and take cuttings indoors by the window where light is relatively good to propagate Gardenia, Fuchsia, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, Podocarpus, rose pomegranate, Chaenomeles speciosa, Nandina, Daphne, Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot mouth must be covered well with plastic film for moisture retention.

On the balcony, when grafting Japanese white pine, plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., bagging for moisture retention must be carried out; otherwise it is not easy to survive.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potting are still indoors in March. While adopting measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation and light exposure, plants that need repotting should be repotted in time. For relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, the potting soil should be kept from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants in the current year, but in severe cases can cause plant death. Measures such as building a temporary shelter on site or moving them indoors or into tunnels can be taken for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For stumps such as Chimonanthus praecox, Ilex cornuta, holly, black pine, Japanese white pine, Podocarpus, Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ligustrum quihoui, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, the soil can be changed; for bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist as the standard, water once every 3 to 5 days, and appropriately spray water. For plum blossom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Chimonanthus praecox, longevity peach, Camellia japonica, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape, and a comprehensive cleanup of the plants should be carried out, cutting off infected branches and leaves and destroying them; for dry cut surfaces on stumps, lime sulfur mixture, etc. can be applied for antisepsis treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board placed on top (prefabricated with cement and steel bars), using the humidity produced by evaporation from the water pool. In summer, place some flowers that relatively prefer humid air on it, such as orchid species, Monstera, Philodendron, Syngonium podophyllum, Ardisia crenata, Nandina, etc. The stored water is relatively ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out, you can also first set up stepped racks on the balcony for placing potted flowers and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer. Once potted flowers are moved out and encounter overly strong sunlight, shade measures can quickly be put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare the culture soil for repotting and stock up enough various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April edition)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, the warm and humid airflow in the south becomes stronger and stronger, and the temperature rises noticeably. After Qingming, although there is occasionally the influence of cold air moving south, it can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River; only in areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River does the harm of snow and frost remain. By after Guyu, the late frost has ended in areas south of the Yangtze-Huai region, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for care; but in areas north of the Huai River, potted flowers can only be moved out after the late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, the flower tasks are as follows:

1. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include Cleome spinosa, Mirabilis jalapa, Celosia argentea, Amaranthus tricolor, Portulaca grandiflora, Dahlia pinnata, Gomphrena globosa, Salvia splendens, Impatiens balsamina, Ipomoea, Quamoclit coccinea, Quamoclit coccinea, Nicotiana tabacum, Petunia hybrida, Callistephus chinensis, Coreopsis grandiflora, Coreopsis tinctoria, Tagetes erecta, Chrysanthemum carinatum, Zinnia elegans, Asparagus setaceus, Primula obconica, Tropaeolum majus, Kochia scoparia, Acer palmatum, Euphorbia heterophylla, Ocimum basilicum, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Cosmos bipinnatus, Adenophora stricta, Mimosa pudica, etc. Magnolia family flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in April after sand stratification include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia zenii, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia sinensis, Magnolia sprengeri, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia delavayi, Parakmeria lotungensis, Manglietia fordiana, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia rufis, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia figo, Michelia floribunda, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia wilsonii, Liriodendron chinense, Liriodendron chinense hybrids, Liriodendron tulipifera, etc.; other ornamental trees and shrubs that can be sown

in April include: Abies firma, Sciadopitys verticillata, Araucaria cunninghamii, Pseudolarix amabilis, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Albizia julibrissin, Taxus chinensis, Pittosporum tobira, Sapium sebiferum, Koelreuteria bipinnata, Sapindus mukorossi, Liquidambar formosana, Acer species, Ormosia henryi, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Exochorda racemosa, Lycium chinense, Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Trachycarpus fortunei, etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown immediately after harvest in April include: Gerbera jamesonii, Asparagus setaceus, Primula malacoides, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Fatsia japonica and Solanum mammosum, etc. Among them, Fatsia japonica can have its already blackened, whitish and softened fruits picked at the end of April, the seeds washed out by rubbing, and then sown on fertile seedbeds; the seeds can also first be sand-stored until they crack and show white, and then sown, covered with grass to retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, once about 70% of the seeds have sprouted, the grass covering should be removed promptly, and a shade frame should be set up at the same time; for cultivating Solanum mammosum, the picked golden-yellow fruits can have their skins peeled off, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil; after 10 days the seeds will germinate and emerge, and when the seedlings have grown 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted, either potted for fruit display or planted in the ground and cultivated as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be grafted in April include: Chimonanthus praecox, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Prunus persica 'Densa', Robinia hispida and Echinopsis tubiflora and Schlumbergera truncata, etc.

    3. Division

Indoor foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: Spathiphyllum kochii, Sansevieria trifasciata, Aspidistra elatior, ferns, Rhapis excelsa, Chlorophytum comosum, Agave americana, Aglaonema commutatum, Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema modestum, Maranta species, Aloe vera, Peperomia species, Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, etc. Flowering plants that can be divided include: Canna indica, Paeonia suffruticosa, Canna edulis, Platycodon grandiflorus, Canna generalis, Canna indica, Anemone hupehensis, Hemerocallis fulva, Hemerocallis citrina, Hemerocallis middendorffii, Hemerocallis lilioasphodelus, Hosta plantaginea, etc.; bulbous flowers that can be divided include: Dahlia pinnata, Iris tectorum, Iris germanica, Iris ensata, Canna, Canna, Canna, Canna, Oxalis, Oxalis, Canna, etc. In addition, Cymbidium and Cymbidium can also be divided at this time?

    4. Cuttage

For most flowering trees and shrubs that root easily, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can all be propagated by cuttage in April. The main types include: Buxus species, Mahonia species, Nandina domestica, Cupressus species, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Spiraea species, Liriodendron chinense, Spiraea thunbergii, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or not too much old soil is removed and the root system is not too heavily cut back during repotting, they can all be repotted in April. However, it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, if the new shoots are too long, especially for plum blossoms, they must absolutely not be repotted after the leaves have unfolded.

    2. April is the best period for transplanting open-ground flowering trees and shrubs. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfolded or the new shoots are not long, they can all be transplanted with a soil ball in April; for evergreen types such as Cinnamomum camphora, Magnolia grandiflora, Michelia species, and Michelia alba, a portion of branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce transpiration from the canopy; for deciduous types, it is best to transplant before their leaves unfold, such as Magnolia denudata, Aesculus chinensis, Tilia species, Malus species, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, ornamental peaches, Prunus mume, Prunus armeniaca, etc.; generally, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowering trees and shrubs should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the transplanted plant, so that under the condition of not damaging the soil ball, there will be no worries after transplanting.

III. Bonsai Shaping

April is one of the best periods for bonsai shaping. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice shaping are those with strong adaptability, whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Serissa japonica, Adina rubella, Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii, Euonymus bungeanus, Lagerstroemia indica, Sabina chinensis 'Tamariscifolia', Chamaecyparis pisifera, Ficus microcarpa, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Ulmus parvifolia, Jasminum nudiflorum, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Ginkgo biloba, Pinus thunbergii, Sabina chinensis, etc. Other types suitable for shaping in April include Crataegus cuneata, Pinus parviflora, Pinus hwangshanensis, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Pyracantha fortuneana, Syzygium buxifolium, Fraxinus chinensis, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma congestum, Cephalotaxus fortunei, Diospyros armata, Malus halliana, Carmona retusa, Chaenomeles sinensis, Elaeagnus pungens, Ilex cornuta, Pseudolarix amabilis, Damnacanthus indicus, etc.

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, metal wire or non-metal wire should be used promptly for continuous wiring, guiding and correction, so that they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the care of Pinus parviflora bonsai, special attention should be paid to the following three aspects this month: First, bud removal in time. When the winter buds sprout and granular needle leaf primordia appear on them, 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length can be removed to promote shorter and denser new shoots; Second, removal of female and male strobili. When needle fascicle buds and female and male strobili can be distinguished from the new shoots, all female strobili at the top of the new shoots and male strobili at the base of the new shoots should be removed promptly to reduce nutrient consumption during reproductive growth; Third, watering must be controlled. From the beginning of new shoot elongation, watering should be strictly controlled, watering only when dry, substituting spraying for watering, to ensure that the newly grown needles are short and clustered, so that the branch pads remain flat and well-formed.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Rhododendron, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Daphne odorata, Fortunella margarita, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Solanum pseudocapsicum, Schlumbergera truncata, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium hybridum, Cymbidium sinense, Phaius tankervilleae, etc., because flowering or fruiting has consumed a large amount of nutrients, when growth resumes after warm spring, a nitrogen-based fertilizer should be applied as a top dressing, such as thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote their growth; for potted flowers about to bloom such as Rosa chinensis, Cercis chinensis, Punica granatum, Cymbidium ensifolium, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Michelia alba, etc., top dressing should likewise be given, and the type can be potassium dihydrogen phosphate, etc., with the concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For open-ground Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia species, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Malus species, etc. after flowering, top dressing should also be applied in time to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping and Maintenance

Money trees (Pachira aquatica) can be braided in April. Dig up the seedlings grown from seed or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7 into a braid. After braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then choose a suitable pot for planting; the money tree has extremely strong vitality, and even if there is no time to process it into a braid or plant it, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjusting Plant Shape and Preventing Diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, dead branches, yellow leaves, and withered stems should be removed promptly, plant shape should be adjusted, and water and fertilizer management should be strengthened; for flower types prone to diseases, lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed promptly to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Fruit-Viewing Potted Plants

For potted fruit-viewing flowering trees and shrubs that bloom in April, such as Chaenomeles sinensis, Ginkgo biloba, Pyracantha fortuneana, Aucuba japonica, Malus halliana, etc., especially dioecious or cross-pollinated types, during the flowering period attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization, so that they can set fruit normally, and do not miss the good opportunity.

    5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management. Apart from those with intermittent misting equipment, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times daily, always keeping the cutting medium moist, creating the best environment for their callusing and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual: Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Edition)

Weather characteristics of May: temperatures continue to rise, rainfall gradually increases from south to north across China, and after each rainfall, the temperature rises noticeably. There is often continuous spring rain. After the spring rain ends around Xiaoman, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for planting and caring for flowers, and it plays an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. May flower care, from south to north, mainly includes the following items:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

The main types of flowers and flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown immediately after harvest in May include: Primula obconica, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia bealei, Eriobotrya japonica, etc. Sowing and raising seedlings in May should pay attention to the following three points: First, keep the sowing seedbed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry and dehydrated; Second, the sowing seedbed should be covered with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes between dry and wet in the seedbed, which could cause the seeds to "regress"; Third, after emergence, the grass covering should be removed in several stages, and a shade frame should be set up promptly to avoid scorching the young seedlings.

Osmanthus can have its mature blue-black fruits picked at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the flesh, rinsed clean, and then stored in moist clean fine sand, where they can be kept until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and expose the tip of the radicle can they be sown in the ground. During storage, care should be taken to prevent rodents from stealing them, and the sand should be kept moist.

For loquat sowing, the soil covering should not be too deep, generally not exceeding 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttage

Flower types suitable for cuttage propagation in May include: Salvia splendens (pink, purple, white), Gomphrena globosa (white), Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Antirrhinum majus, Impatiens hawkeri, Coleus blumei, Begonia species, Cosmos sulphureus, Rosa chinensis, Rhododendron, Dahlia pinnata, Fuchsia hybrida, Plectranthus scutellarioides, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Pelargonium hortorum, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Erythrina variegata, Tropaeolum majus, Jasminum sambac, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Acalypha wilkesiana, Deutzia scabra, Hydrangea macrophylla, Kerria japonica, Punica granatum, Hibiscus syriacus, Buddleja lindleyana, Campsis grandiflora, Gardenia jasminoides, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epipremnum pinnatum, Epiphyllum hybridum, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum paraguayense, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia liliiflora, Chaenomeles speciosa, Cyperus alternifolius, Lantana camara, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Aglaonema modestum, Cordyline fruticosa, Epipremnum aureum, Schefflera octophylla, Nerium species, Pyracantha fortuneana, Mahonia species, and Bambusa ventricosa with aerial roots, etc.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia liliiflora seedlings or cuttings to graft and propagate Michelia alba and Michelia figo; use 1- to 2-year-old Acer palmatum seedlings for bud grafting to propagate Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum 'Dissectum', Acer palmatum 'Dissectum' etc.; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old Rhododendron mucronatum cuttings for cleft grafting to propagate Rhododendron hybrids; use Rosa multiflora as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate fine varieties of Rosa chinensis; use Artemisia annua as rootstock for grafting to propagate fine varieties of chrysanthemum; use 2-year-old seedling Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock; graft fine varieties of Chimonanthus praecox by softwood grafting, and potted rootstocks can also be used for grafting. In addition, Echinopsis tubiflora, Hylocereus undatus can be used as rootstock for grafting to propagate Schlumbergera truncata.

    4. Layering

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by air layering in May include: Michelia alba, Ficus elastica, Aglaia odorata, Rhododendron hybridum, Camellia japonica, Codiaeum variegatum, Michelia figo, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc.; those that can be propagated by ground layering include: Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Rosa chinensis, Gardenia jasminoides, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Osmanthus fragrans, Campsis grandiflora, etc.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, the vast majority of types must be potted and planted in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, they can bloom on time by the end of September and early October, thereby creating a joyful, enthusiastic and colorful holiday atmosphere. The main types include: Salvia splendens (pink, white, purple), Gomphrena globosa (white), Celosia argentea, Zinnia elegans, Cosmos sulphureus, Callistephus chinensis, Kochia scoparia, Tagetes erecta, Antirrhinum majus, Asparagus setaceus, Impatiens hawkeri, Coleus blumei, Begonia species, etc.

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and the beginning of May, when Magnolia denudata has finished flowering and is just about to sprout and unfold leaves, transplanting has the highest survival rate. Some flowering trees and shrubs that sprout later and are easy to transplant can also be transplanted with a soil ball and planted in early May, such as Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Cercis chinensis, Punica granatum, Albizia julibrissin, etc.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, the water demand of potted ornamental plants will gradually increase. In addition to combining root watering with foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of water used for irrigation and spraying. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water directly treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a water tank or small vat, and then an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with the concentration kept between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flower types suitable for acidic water quality mainly include: Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Rhododendron, Rhododendron simsii, Gardenia jasminoides, Daphne odorata, Clivia miniata, Chrysanthemum, Malus species, Camellia chekiangoleosa, etc.; foliage types include: Cycas revoluta, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Ficus elastica, ferns, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Codiaeum variegatum, Fittonia verschaffeltii (red/green), Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta species, Bromeliaceae, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Schefflera octophylla, etc.; fruit-viewing types include: Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Pyracantha fortuneana, Fortunella margarita, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus limon, Nandina domestica, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Ardisia crenata, etc.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. For Michelia alba that has just been moved out, special attention should be paid when cutting back, because its branch pith is loose and the cut surface easily loses water and dries out and extends downward. For this reason, the cut should be made 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye intended to be retained, and must not be too close to the bud eye. For potted Rosa chinensis, pruning after flowering should moderately lower by 10 to 20 cm, so that the bud eyes located in the middle of the branch can produce flower buds.

(2) Bud removal. For bud removal on potted Chimonanthus praecox plants, attention should also be paid to the location of bud removal. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud site; otherwise, the wound will dry out and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Rosa chinensis potted in the current year, the terminal bud should be removed promptly to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade frame or under tree shade, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Maranta species, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Fittonia verschaffeltii (red/green), Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Calathea roseopicta, Livistona chinensis, Syngonium podophyllum, orchids, Rhododendron, Strelitzia reginae, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, etc.; for light-loving flowering trees and shrubs, full light must be given, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Cycas revoluta, Rosa chinensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, etc.; bonsai plants such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Xylosma congestum, Serissa japonica, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, etc., require full light; while Podocarpus macrophyllus, Damnacanthus indicus, Syzygium buxifolium, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Pinus parviflora, etc. can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For Camellia japonica, Rhododendron, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, Gardenia jasminoides, Chimonanthus praecox, Rosa chinensis, Daphne odorata, Clivia miniata, orchids, Malus species, etc.; after flowering, remove the faded flowers and withered stems respectively, and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen and supplemented by phosphorus, once every half month, to restore their vegetative growth while laying a foundation for them to produce flower buds again; for foliage-oriented types such as Ficus elastica, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Fittonia verschaffeltii (red/green), Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Aspidistra elatior, ferns, etc., apply once every half month a thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water; for foliage plants with colored spots and patterns, such as Sansevieria trifasciata 'Laurentii', Vriesea splendens, Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Codiaeum variegatum, Caladium bicolor, Syngonium podophyllum 'White Butterfly', Calathea roseopicta, etc., a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be applied as a foliar top dressing, which can make their leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Rosa chinensis, Rosa multiflora, Rosa rugosa, etc., attention should be paid to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot disease, and for leaf-eating pests that appear, pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them; for common leaf-eating pests on Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Fortunella margarita, Glycine max, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus limon, Ruta graveolens, etc.??? Citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, spray pesticide early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

Ornamental bonsai plant types that can still be shaped in May include: Prunus mume, Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans', Gardenia jasminoides, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Serissa japonica, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Adina rubella, Cephalotaxus fortunei, Ginkgo biloba, etc. It is worth noting that when shaping, one must be careful and cautious, and try not to damage the bark and core of the branches and trunk, otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Edition)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huai River basin enters the plum rain season. This year, the plum rain begins on June 12 and ends on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in this region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with prolonged continuous rainfall. For some flowers and the vast majority of bonsai that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant, care should be taken especially, so as not to cause root rot due to excessive rain, or cause the plants to grow excessively due to insufficient light, disrupting the shape or affecting normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. June flower care, from south to north, mainly includes the following items:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in June include: Primula malacoides, lotus seeds, Cycas revoluta, Eriobotrya japonica, Chimonanthus praecox, etc. For Chimonanthus praecox, when the urn-shaped fruit capsules on the mother tree turn from green to yellow, then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked; promptly peel open the fruit capsule, release the seeds, first soak in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds have absorbed enough water and swelled, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination; after about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white, at which point sow in furrows; the soil covering thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm, cover with rice straw to retain moisture, and after most of the seeds' cotyledons have emerged, remove the covering in 2 to 3 stages, and set up a shade frame promptly.

    2. Cuttage

In summer, temperatures are high and humidity is great, and the cambium in the branches of flowering trees and shrubs is highly active, making it the best time for cuttage propagation. There are two major categories of flowering trees and shrubs suitable for softwood cuttage in summer. One category consists of types that are difficult to root or slow to root by hardwood cuttage, such as Osmanthus fragrans, Camellia japonica, Michelia figo, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Syringa oblata, Magnolia liliiflora, Chaenomeles speciosa, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, Viburnum odoratissimum, Erythrina variegata, Rhododendron hybridum, Bambusa ventricosa (with aerial roots), Ficus elastica, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Taxodium ascendens, Taxodium distichum, etc.; the other category consists of types that root relatively easily, such as Buxus species, Rosa chinensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum officinale, Serissa japonica, Punica granatum, Hibiscus syriacus, Caragana sinica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Carmona retusa, Lantana camara, Kerria japonica, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus limon, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nandina domestica, Campsis grandiflora, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Lonicera japonica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Cordyline fruticosa, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum patulum, Salix babylonica var. pendula, Salix matsudana 'Tortuosa', Ficus microcarpa, Dracaena fragrans, Ardisia crenata, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Codiaeum variegatum, Deutzia scabra, Philadelphus incanus, Lagerstroemia indica, Weigela coraeensis, Weigela florida, Spiraea cantoniensis, Aucuba species, Schefflera species, Mahonia species, Fatsia japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hydrangea macrophylla, Euphorbia pulcherrima, etc. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as Ipomoea cairica, Parthenocissus species, Tropaeolum majus, Torenia fournieri, campanula, Heliotropium arborescens, Cyperus alternifolius, Pelargonium hortorum, Coleus blumei, Begonia species, Viola tricolor, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Cosmos sulphureus, etc.

Taking the fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttage of Camellia japonica and Osmanthus fragrans as an example: the cuttage time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the young shoots of Osmanthus fragrans and Camellia japonica are semi-lignified; the medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam or vermiculite; the cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the end, and the lower cut is dipped for 10 seconds in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthaleneacetic acid solution, then inserted into the seedbed after brief drying; the insertion depth of the cuttings is 1/2 to 2/3 of the shoot length, with a plant-row spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the seedbed, then cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, set up a double-layer shade frame to block light, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally after one month the cuttings will root abundantly.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: use potted seedling Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock to graft fine varieties of Chimonanthus praecox; use potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock to graft Michelia alba, Michelia figo, etc. Bud grafting: use Rosa multiflora seedlings as rootstock to propagate fine varieties of Rosa chinensis; use 1-year-old seedlings of Prunus armeniaca, Prunus persica, Prunus salicina, etc. as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate Prunus persica 'Densa', Prunus persica 'Duplex', Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, Prunus persica 'Atropurpurea', Prunus japonica, Prunus mume, Prunus triloba, etc.; use 1- to 2-year-old Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock to graft and propagate Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum 'Dissectum', Acer palmatum 'Sanguineum', etc. Branch grafting: use Camellia oleifera, Camellia chekiangoleosa or single-petal seedling Camellia japonica as rootstock for branch grafting of Camellia japonica and Camellia sasanqua; use 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among Rhododendron mucronatum as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting of Rhododendron hybridum or Rhododendron.

    4. Layering

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering in June include: Rhododendron, Lonicera japonica, Hydrangea macrophylla, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, Weigela florida, Nerium oleander, Osmanthus fragrans, Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Syringa oblata, Gardenia jasminoides, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, etc.

    5. Division

    Flower types that can be propagated by division in June include: Nephrolepis cordifolia, Zantedeschia aethiopica (after flowering), Bambusa ventricosa, Cyperus alternifolius, Rhoeo spathacea, Bromeliaceae, Haworthia fasciata, Aspidistra elatior, Chlorophytum comosum, Acorus species, Liriope platyphylla 'Variegata', etc.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting and Potting

    1. Seed Collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: Dianthus chinensis, Centaurea cyanus, Antirrhinum majus, Silene armeria, Silene chalcedonica, Alcea rosea, Malva sinensis, Primula malacoides, Calceolaria herbeohybrida, Hippeastrum rutilum (sow immediately after harvest), etc.

    Flowering tree and shrub seeds that can be collected in June: after collecting Chimonanthus praecox seeds, if nursery conditions do not allow, the released seeds can also be dry-stored until the following spring before sowing, without affecting their germination rate; peaches, apricots, etc. should be sown immediately after harvest, or their seeds sand-stored until they crack and germinate before sowing in the ground; Osmanthus fragrans seeds collected in June, after removing the fleshy fruit skin and washing clean, are stored with moist sand to promote seed embryo after-ripening, and when they germinate, a nursery site is selected for sowing.

    2. Transplanting and Potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting or potting, including: Oenothera biennis, Cleome spinosa, Impatiens balsamina, Impatiens hawkeri, Primula malacoides, ornamental peppers, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Nicotiana tabacum, Petunia hybrida, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, Salvia splendens, Antirrhinum majus, Kochia scoparia, Cosmos sulphureus, Celosia argentea, Alternanthera versicolor, etc.

After entering summer, some large flowering trees and shrubs are no longer transplanted, so as not to affect their survival rate and growth after transplanting. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Fatsia japonica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia fortunei, Hypericum monogynum, Gardenia jasminoides, Ligustrum sinense 'Variegatum', Berberis thunbergii f. atropurpurea, Buxus species, under special circumstances, transplanting with a ball is also acceptable, exactly as the old saying goes: "There is no time when one cannot transplant, just do not let the tree know," but after transplanting, spraying and shading management should be strengthened.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    Watering potted flowers in June should pay attention to the following aspects: First, watering time, preferably at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m., and generally watering once a day is sufficient; Second, watering temperature, the irrigation water and the pot soil temperature should be kept basically consistent. If the water temperature and soil temperature differ too greatly, it will cause the roots and leaves of potted flowers to be stimulated and thereby affect their growth; Third, combine watering and spraying. When encountering weather with no rain for several days, in addition to watering the pot, also spray water on the leaf surface and around the potted flowers, thereby increasing the humidity of the local space. If encountering continuous cloudy days, decide whether to water and spray according to the dry and wet conditions of the pot soil.

Flower types that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: Oxalis corymbosa, Pelargonium hortorum, Fuchsia hybrida, Clivia miniata, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Begonia species, etc., when the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and their metabolic level is low, watering should be reduced, and keeping the pot soil moist is sufficient; deep dormant types such as: Cyclamen persicum, Lycoris (species), Ranunculus asiaticus, Dutch peony, etc., under high temperatures show aboveground stems and leaves withering and underground nutrient fibrous roots dying, overwintering summer dormancy in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. Watering must be stopped for them, and they should be moved to a cool place, keeping the pot soil not excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, potted flowers should be comprehensively checked. If water accumulation is found in the pots, it should be poured out as soon as possible, and after the pot soil dries, loosen the soil, so as to avoid causing root rot in the plants; or before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, set the potted flowers upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing types, such as Monstera deliciosa, Chlorophytum comosum, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta species, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Cycas revoluta, Aspidistra elatior, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Fittonia verschaffeltii (red/green), Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', Ficus elastica, Anthurium andraeanum, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Rhapis excelsa, Araucaria cunninghamii, Dracaena fragrans, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pachira aquatica, Chimonanthus praecox, Rosa chinensis, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Daphne odorata, Rhododendron, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Lantana camara, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Justicia brandegeeana, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus limon, Fortunella margarita, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc., a thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water can be applied once every half month. For types currently blooming, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the needs of their growth, flowering and fruiting.

For those flower types in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped; especially for those succulent flower types, such as Crassula ovata, Schlumbergera truncata, Haworthia cooperi, Senecio articulatus, Sedum morganianum, Lampranthus spectabilis, Stapelia gigantea, Sedum species, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, fertilization should be stopped to avoid rotting.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. For vigorously growing types such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Carmona retusa, Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Adina rubella, Sabina chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Acer buergerianum, Fontanesia fortunei, Tamarix chinensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc., branches that affect the shape should be pruned or cut back early, which can keep the plant distinct in layers and good in appearance, and can promote it to produce more short branches and more new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal. For flowers such as Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Rosa chinensis, etc., their faded flowers and withered stems should be removed promptly, and the branches that have flowered should be appropriately cut back, to promote the lower lateral branches or flower buds to bloom again; for flowering trees and shrubs such as Michelia alba, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Rhododendron, Camellia japonica, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Malus species, etc., in order to promote them to form a good plant shape and produce more flower buds, more flowers, and good flowers in the current year or the following year, the overly vigorous branches should be topped and their buds removed, to inhibit the growth of the main and lateral shoots and promote the sprouting of lateral buds.

    4. Shading

    In June, for those flowering trees and shrubs that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to prevent damage to the plants from scorching sun. Such as Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Asparagus setaceus, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, Strelitzia reginae, orchids, Rhapis excelsa, Ficus elastica, ferns, Philodendron, Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea roseopicta, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Epipremnum aureum, Peperomia tetraphylla, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Fittonia verschaffeltii (red/green), Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Red Queen', Livistona chinensis, Daphne odorata, Aspidistra elatior, Chlorophytum comosum, etc. For light-loving flower types, sufficient light must be given, such as Punica granatum, Wisteria sinensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Serissa japonica, Cycas revoluta, Sabina chinensis, Prunus persica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Acer buergerianum, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Adina rubella, Xylosma congestum, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Rosa chinensis, Mahonia species, Vitis vinifera, etc.; Podocarpus macrophyllus, Damnacanthus indicus, Nandina domestica, Bambusa ventricosa, Bambusa multiplex, Pinus parviflora, Nageia nagi, etc., can be given appropriate shading.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Ulmus parvifolia, Chaenomeles sinensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Malus species, etc. are prone to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles, and poison sticks should be used promptly to block and control them.

(2) Rosa chinensis, Rosa multiflora, Rosa rugosa, etc. are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot disease during the plum rain season, and Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed early for control.

(3) Michelia alba, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, etc. are prone to damage by aphids, and appropriate pesticides should be selected early to spray and kill them.

(4) Orchid leaves are prone to infection by anthracnose, and fungicides such as carbendazim should be sprayed early for control.

(5) Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus limon, Fortunella margarita, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, etc., their young leaves are prone to being eaten by Citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, and contact insecticides, stomach poisons and other pesticides can be sprayed to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

Plant types that can be shaped in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and must be plants potted and hardened off in early spring or planted in the ground. They are: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Jasminum nudiflorum, Elaeagnus pungens, Pinus armandii, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Sabina chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Lycium chinense, Pinus parviflora, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Prunus mume, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Acer buergerianum, Serissa japonica, Pinus thunbergii, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Ulmus parvifolia, Tamarix chinensis, Adina rubella, Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii, Ginkgo biloba, Fontanesia fortunei, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc. Shaping in June must be careful, with slow wiring and gentle tying; one must not be too impatient or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5, Grain in Ear; June 21, Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Manual (July Edition)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain weather in the Yangtze-Huai region ends. July 16 is the first day of the dog days, and August 15 is the last day of the dog days, and most parts of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of China is above 24°C, and in areas south of the Yangtze-Huai region it is 28°C. Only northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau have an average July temperature below 20°C. July flower care management mainly includes the following items:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: Pericallis hybrida, Primula obconica, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, Campanula medium, etc. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light transmission.
    In July, mature fruits of Prunus mume, Prunus persica, Prunus davidiana, Prunus triloba, etc. can also be picked, the flesh washed off, and then sown in furrows immediately, or the washed stone fruits can be stored with moist sand until they crack and then sown; Chimonanthus praecox seeds can be sown immediately after harvest, or the seeds released from the fruit capsules can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, without affecting their germination rate.
    2. Cuttage
    Herbaceous flower types suitable for cuttage propagation in July include: Scutellaria indica, Begonia species, Coleus blumei, Pilea cadierei, Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Gomphrena globosa, Pelargonium hortorum, Aster novi-belgii, Lythrum salicaria, Cyperus alternifolius, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Plectranthus scutellarioides, Peperomia species, Epipremnum pinnatum, Polygonum chinense, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Epipremnum aureum, etc.
    Woody flower types suitable for cuttage propagation in July include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Nandina domestica, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Euphorbia milii, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum patulum, Weigela coraeensis, Hydrangea macrophylla, Weigela florida, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Daphne odorata, Gardenia jasminoides, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Magnolia sieboldii, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera octophylla, Mahonia species, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Pyracantha fortuneana, Cordyline fruticosa, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Serissa japonica, Michelia figo, Viburnum odoratissimum, Ficus elastica, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, Buxus species, Ficus carica, Magnolia liliiflora, Osmanthus fragrans, Rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Salix matsudana 'Tortuosa', Salix babylonica var. pendula, etc. Hippeastrum can also be propagated by scale cuttage.
In addition, in July, some flowering trees and shrubs can also be propagated by water cuttage. They are: Gardenia jasminoides, Nerium oleander, Rosa chinensis, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Ficus carica, Punica granatum, Fuchsia hybrida, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, etc. To propagate flowering trees and shrubs by water cuttage, first prepare a thick foam plastic board of 1 cm to 2 cm, perforate it and use it as fixing material for cuttings; second, keep the water used for cuttage clean, and a few pieces of charcoal can be added for anti-corrosion purposes.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old Prunus davidiana and Prunus persica seedlings can be used as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate Prunus persica 'Duplex', Prunus persica 'Densa', Prunus persica 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume, Prunus triloba, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, Prunus mume 'Meiren', etc.; use cuttings of Rosa multiflora, Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis, and 'Ten Sisters' as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate variety roses, cut-flower roses and Rosa rugosa, etc.; use potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate Michelia alba, Michelia figo, etc.; use potted 2-year-old seedling Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock for grafting to propagate fine varieties of Chimonanthus praecox; 2-year-old Chimonanthus praecox seedlings can also be used as rootstock, using the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm from the ground, and after 7 to 10 days it can be judged whether it has survived; use 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among Rhododendron mucronatum as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting to propagate Rhododendron hybridum or Rhododendron; use cherry seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate fine varieties of flowering cherry; use current-year seedling of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis or Malus halliana, Malus spectabilis as rootstock for "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate fine varieties of Malus species; use Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock for bagged grafting to propagate Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum 'Dissectum' and other seedlings.
    4. Layering
    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia odorata (air layering), Chimonanthus praecox, Lonicera japonica, Hydrangea macrophylla, Campsis grandiflora, Viburnum macrocephalum, Nerium oleander, Weigela florida, Caragana sinica, Osmanthus fragrans, Gardenia jasminoides, Magnolia liliiflora, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, climbing roses, Jasminum nudiflorum, etc.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant types that can be divided in July include: Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Acorus species, Cyperus alternifolius, Aspidistra elatior, Rhoeo spathacea, Bromeliaceae, Haworthia fasciata, Chlorophytum comosum, Liriope species, Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Iris tectorum, Tradescantia zebrina, etc. II. Seed Collection and Transplanting and Potting
    1. Seed Collection
    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: Alcea rosea, Malva sinensis, Ipomoea, Gypsophila elegans, Petunia hybrida, Phlox drummondii, Digitalis purpurea, Coreopsis tinctoria, Lathyrus odoratus, Bellis perennis, Delphinium grandiflorum, Viola tricolor, Lampranthus spectabilis, etc.
    Flower and tree seeds that can be harvested in July include: wintersweet, plum, hairy peach, mountain peach, and flowering almond.
    2. Transplanting, planting out, and potting up
    July is the main period for potting up the herbaceous flowers displayed during the National Day holiday. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted at this time can be seedlings grown from seed or from cuttings. After 3 months of careful tending, they will bloom right around the National Day holiday for festive decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, small dahlia, Guinea impatiens, snapdragon, marigold, French marigold, summer cypress, China aster, sulfur cosmos, and cockscomb.
    Trees are generally not transplanted in July, but under certain special circumstances, transplanting some flowering shrubs with soil balls is also feasible, such as leatherleaf mahonia, St. John's wort, golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, Japanese aucuba, and Chinese juniper balls. However, targeted pruning must be done, shade frames must be set up promptly, and the frequency of water spraying must be increased. After they have basically survived, they can be returned to normal management; never be careless.
III. Flower management
    1. Watering
    For flower species that enter a semi-dormant state at high temperatures, such as red woodsorrel, geraniums, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonias, sedum, kalanchoe, cacti, Haworthia cooperi, Stapelia grandiflora, string of pearls, Senecio radicans, daphne, Christmas cactus, portulacaria, and aloe, because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low. Watering should be reduced, the potting soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it is easy to cause root rot in the plants and will also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.
    For flower species that enter a deep dormancy state at high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, Persian buttercup, and bleeding heart, in July their aboveground stems and leaves wither and their underground nutrient fibrous roots die, surviving the summer as underground stems or tuberous roots dormant in the soil. For flowers in deep dormancy, watering should be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the potting soil should merely be kept from becoming too dry.
    For flower species with vigorous growth, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm, Aspidistra elatior, Swiss cheese plant, rubber tree, Michelia alba, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Norfolk Island pine, Calathea species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', Calathea roseopicta, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, camellia, sasanqua, Japanese aucuba, Pyracantha fortuneana, bitter orange, lemon, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, and Chinese rose, not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but the leaves should also be appropriately sprayed with water, combining spraying and watering. Especially during consecutive cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be given; never be negligent. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray water on the leaves, and after the leaves recover and stand up, then water the roots. Never pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or cause the rotting of the plants' nutrient fibrous roots, and even cause plant death.
    For potted plum bonsai, because July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves on both sides of the potted plant slightly curled inward to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and then pinch off the rest. Flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axils of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon; watering before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. is preferable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain. If standing water is found in the pots, pour it out promptly, and after the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot in the potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, there are four major categories of ornamental plants for which fertilization management should be strengthened. The first is species with exceptionally long flowering periods, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Michelia alba, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, and jasmine; the second is species that bloom abundantly in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, and cotton rose; the third is species grown in winter for their flowers and fruit, such as bitter orange, nandina, wintersweet, and rhododendron; the fourth is foliage plants, such as bamboo palm, Swiss cheese plant, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, and rubber tree. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to applying the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium and provide sufficient nutritional assurance for their budding, flowering, and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the fertilization method, applying thin liquid fertilizer is preferable.
    In July, herbaceous flowers for which fertilization should be strengthened include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, shrimp plant, Justicia brandegeeana, Cymbidium ensifolium, marigold, four o'clock flower, and snapdragon. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, banana shrub, osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming jasmine, Chinese rose, crabapple species, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, wintersweet, rose of Sharon, and cotton rose. There are many kinds of foliage plants, such as bromeliads, Dracaena fragrans, bamboo palm, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, Calathea, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, Swiss cheese plant, and Cordyline fruticosa.
   In July, fertilization must be stopped for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, especially for succulent ornamental plants such as sedum species, Senecio articulatus, Lampranthus spectabilis, and Stapelia gigantea; fertilization must be stopped even more to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be tip-pruned and have their buds pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means using the fingers to directly pinch off the tender terminal bud at the tip. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, boxleaf euonymus, wintersweet, firethorn, Buddhist pine, tamarisk, Elaeagnus pungens, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia suspense, Chinese hackberry, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple, crape myrtle, Serissa japonica, and orange jasmine. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of a new shoot to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and form beautiful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are not convenient to pinch with the fingers, such as Chinese juniper, Oriental arborvitae, Sabina chinensis, creeping juniper, oak, Ilex cornuta, and Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca'.
For potted flower species that continue blooming for a long time, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, and Chloranthus spicatus, their spent flowers and withered stalks should be removed promptly, and the branches that have already flowered should be cut back as necessary, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and a second round of blooming. For rhododendron, camellia, sasanqua, crabapple, wintersweet, and plum blossom, overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be cut back to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperatures of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun exposure. Such as ferns, hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Swiss cheese plant, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, bird of paradise, orchids, bamboo palm, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Calathea roseopicta, pothos, pepperomia species, Aspidistra elatior, Tradescantia zebrina, Dracaena fragrans, Epipremnum pinnatum, bromeliads, Calathea species, and Reineckea carnea.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, firethorn, jasmine, Serissa japonica, sago palm, Sabina chinensis, Oriental arborvitae, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, trident maple, Japanese black pine, Adina rubella, oak, Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song', Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, and Chinese rose. For Buddhist pine, Podocarpus nagi, banana shrub, Damnacanthus indicus, asparagus fern, (Bambusa multiplex), and five-needle pine, however, it is necessary to provide appropriate shading.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature is too high this month and the air is relatively dry, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand. This can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and also help protect the plants' nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, choose flower species with a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or leaves covered with a thicker cuticle, that are slightly tolerant of dry environments and have strong resistance, such as rubber tree, Japanese fatsia, leatherleaf mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Hibiscus mutabilis, Chinese fan palm, bamboo palm, Canary Island date palm, bromeliads, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Swiss cheese plant, Schefflera octophylla, Aspidistra elatior, and Japanese aucuba; it is not advisable to choose Boston fern, coleus, Philodendron 'Green Giant', or Syngonium. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioner outlets to prevent wind from blowing directly on the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and margins to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are prone to infection by anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant, and in severe cases can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous overcast rain are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the disease period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the root crowns or main trunks of plum blossom, peach blossom, crabapple species, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, and flowering almond, it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic pesticide, insertion of poison sticks, and soil application of carbofuran can be used for control, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the tree trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, dimethoate and omethoate should be avoided to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the box tree pyralid that harms boxleaf euonymus, Korean boxwood, (Buxus sinica var. parvifolia), and pearl boxwood. When this pest occurs severely, it can chew all the leaves bare. Once discovered, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and the pest has developed resistance, a new type of pesticide can be substituted.
(4) In July, in some areas, the larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly will continue to harm the leaves of new shoots of bitter orange, kumquat, Glycine max, finger citron, lemon, Citrus wilsonii, and rue. Stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) The white wax insect that harms glossy privet, Chinese privet, Ligustrum sinense, and Chinese ash has its emergence period from late July to late August. The right time should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the white wax insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest harming big-leaf euonymus, London plane, Japanese pittosporum, camellia, red-leaf plum, and deodar cedar. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, the air humidity is low, and plants are in a period of vigorous growth, wounds on branches are prone to infection by pathogens and difficult to heal and recover. Most tree stump species are no longer suitable for further wiring and shaping. The plant species that can still be shaped are those with strong adaptability and tolerance for wiring, and the plants are required to be those potted in spring for hardening off or planted in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Buddhist pine, sawara cypress, (Calocedrus macrolepis), Serissa japonica, Japanese black pine, boxleaf euonymus, and Adina rubella.
    In July, plant shaping must be careful and meticulous, wiring gently and slowly, applying force gradually, and must not be done hastily or with too much force; otherwise it is very easy to cause the branches and trunks of the plant to break, endangering its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Handbook: Autumn

Flower Planting Handbook (August Volume)

Flowers suitable for display in courtyards
    August has high temperatures, strong light, and low humidity, and is the second-highest period of high temperature and dry heat in the year after July. The monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for display in courtyards are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among the woody flowers are mainly: Norfolk Island pine, Japanese black pine, Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song', five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese umbrella pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, armand pine, Buddhist pine, Sabina chinensis, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus variegata, Chinese hibiscus, Lantana camara, Erythrina variegata (coral tree), Yucca elephantipes, croton, Dracaena fragrans, bamboo palm, money tree, Schefflera actinophylla, Plumeria rubra, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', oleander, Washington palm, palm, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Japanese fatsia, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata', ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea, banyan, and Chinese rose. Herbaceous flowers include: impatiens, large-flowered canna, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, Begonia 'Coccinea', snapdragon, marigold, French marigold, phlox, ornamental pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, pot marigold, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four o'clock flower, and zinnia. In addition, there are also Aspidistra elatior, Aglaonema modestum, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Swiss cheese plant, pothos, and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen'.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony, flowering almond, red-flowered camellia, summer wintersweet, American summer wintersweet, and Buddhist pine. They can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be sand-stored to promote germination and then sown in bags. Ornamental pomegranate is harvested after the fruit ripens and cracks; rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, store in sand until germination, and then sow. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, fan columbine, petunia, snapdragon, purple coneflower, oxalis species, yarrow, nasturtium, and pyrethrum. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, wax begonia, fairy primrose, coleus, and pot marigold.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed substrate prepared from alkaline-leached rice husk ash and wet fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, and performing moisture-retaining bench cuttings or pot cuttings, the following flower and tree species can be propagated: firethorn, Mahonia species, wintersweet, banana shrub, bougainvillea, coral tree, Aglaia odorata, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata', Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, rubber tree, (Aquilaria sinensis), Buddhist pine, Schefflera species, Cordyline fruticosa, Hydrangea macrophylla, and Magnolia denudata. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, etc. as the substrate, cuttings can be made of boxwood species, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, French holly, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, Serissa japonica, spirea, (Spiraea thunbergii), and gardenia. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, and sulfur cosmos can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flower and tree grafts can be carried out: in northern regions, use Chionanthus retusus as rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliiflora as rootstocks and bud-graft to propagate Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as rootstock and cleft-graft Michelia alba; use current-year seedlings of hairy peach as rootstock and bud-graft plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf flowering almond, and flowering almond; use cherry seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft Japanese cherry; use wild rose and (Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis) as rootstocks and bud-graft superior Chinese rose cultivars; use seedlings of Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, and Malus hupehensis as rootstocks and bud-graft Malus spectabilis and Malus halliana; use green maple as rootstock and top-graft red maple and laceleaf maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as rootstock and cleft-graft variegated weeping fig; use single-petal camellia as rootstock and cleft-graft superior camellia cultivars; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock and cleft-graft or approach-graft superior wintersweet cultivars. In addition, large-flowered wisteria can also be propagated by cleft grafting.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, sweet osmanthus, climbing rose, weigela, Hydrangea macrophylla, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, oleander, gardenia, Scotch broom, winter jasmine, Forsythia suspense, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus spectabilis, osmanthus species, Magnolia denudata, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, banana shrub, Chinese hibiscus, Buddhist pine, Viburnum odoratissimum, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), and red maple (air layering).
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Philodendron 'Little Angel', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', bromeliads, Polygonatum odoratum, Aspidistra elatior, Cyperus alternifolius, Adina pilulifera, red (green) gem, iris, blackberry lily, purple triangular oxalis, Aglaonema modestum, Dutch chrysanthemum, fine-leaf Acorus gramineus, Boston fern, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Calathea species, Syngonium, and Haworthia. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, and freesia can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when transplanted with a large soil ball and supplemented by heavy pruning, management such as shading, watering, and spraying should be strengthened after transplanting, which can achieve a relatively high survival rate, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-edge Oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), golden-heart (golden-edge) boxwood, St. John's wort, leatherleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, Chinese rose, rhododendron, gardenia, Buddhist pine, banana shrub, Chinese juniper ball, Sabina chinensis ball, boxwood ball, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, Japanese aucuba, and French holly. In courtyards, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and planted out, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, and snapdragon, which can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, roadside hedges in courtyards such as boxwood, Chinese privet, glossy privet, golden-leaf privet, French holly, and Photinia davidsoniae should continue to be pruned. For ground-planted ball-shaped plants, such as Photinia, Chinese juniper, Sabina chinensis, bayberry, firethorn, Japanese pittosporum, Ilex cornuta, and holly, pruning must also be done again. For ground-planted flowers and trees that continue blooming for a long time, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, and Lantana camara, spent flowers should be removed promptly, and the branch tips should be cut back moderately. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, French marigold, and marigold, tip pruning and pinching should be given.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and herbaceous flowers planted out, watering and spraying management should be strengthened. For plants with straw ropes tied around their trunks, the straw ropes should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Spray more and water cautiously to ensure no standing water at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered photinia, golden-edge (golden-heart) boxwood, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, purple-leaf sand cherry, croton, red mulberry, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata', and Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', in order to keep their leaf color bright for a long time, a quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For species that continue blooming, such as Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', flowering pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, and Lantana camara, as well as species about to bloom, such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, and autumn anemone, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly. For camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, and wintersweet, which are in the midst of flower bud differentiation, a small amount of monopotassium phosphate solution can be sprayed as a foliar top dressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on deodar cedar, glossy privet, Japanese pittosporum, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, and camellia, promptly spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control. For chrysanthemum beetles and aphids occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystals at 1000 times dilution to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawflies and cotton bollworm that chew rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, flowering almond, red-flowered camellia, Buddhist pine, and summer wintersweet. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony, moss rose, four o'clock flower, phlox, California poppy, and snow-in-summer.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In August, water between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidic conditions, add 0.1% ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as calceolaria, gloxinia, Begonia masoniana, and Begonia rex, water droplets falling on the leaf surface do not evaporate easily and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the leaf rosette of clivia also must not be sprinkled with water, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water less and spray more, and pour water into the leaf cups to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to harden. For flower species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, control watering and spraying, keeping the potting soil only slightly moist, and by spraying water in the small environment around the flower pots, create a relatively cool and moist environment for them.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants, such as Swiss cheese plant, Aspidistra elatior, rubber tree, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, bamboo palm, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, queen palm, pygmy date palm, areca palm, fishtail palm, Chinese fan palm, pothos, Dracaena fragrans, Yucca elephantipes, money tree, Boston fern, Dracaena, Fagraea ceilanica (African jasmine), Cinnamomum kotoense (Ping'an wood), gold coin tree (Zamioculcas zamiifolia), Syngonium, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', poinsettia, Calathea roseopicta, Schefflera octophylla, Japanese aucuba, Chamaedorea elegans, croton, and Japanese fatsia, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with long flowering periods, such as Chinese rose, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', bougainvillea, and Lantana camara, as well as fruiting plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, Diospyros armata, fruit pomegranate, nandina, and papaya, in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as monopotassium phosphate. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, drought chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, snapdragon, China aster, chrysanthemum, and dwarf sunflower, apply thin liquid fertilizer once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flower and tree species in flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, osmanthus, and rhododendron, apply low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer as a foliar top dressing. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip onto the leaves, so as to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, promptly spray the leaves once with water after fertilizing to wash off any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, portulacaria, Christmas cactus, sedum species, purple triangular oxalis, cacti, and ball cacti, all forms of top dressing must be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the heat is still strong, and shading management for courtyard potted flowers remains very important. For ornamental plant species that prefer cool conditions, such as Swiss cheese plant, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', rubber tree, areca palm, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, Calathea species, red (green) gem, bamboo palm, pothos, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', orchids, Calathea roseopicta, pepperomia, bromeliads, Adina pilulifera, Pilea peperomioides, ferns, Buddha belly bamboo, bamboo fern, spider plant, Reineckea carnea, Chamaedorea elegans, Fittonia, Gynura aurantiaca, Ludisia discolor, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, begonias, lucky bamboo, Aspidistra elatior, asparagus fern, and Hosta ventricosa, continue to provide shade frames. Pull on the shade net at 9 a.m. and remove it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and then moved out from under the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue to pinch or prune tree stump bonsai that grow vigorously, tolerate pruning, and sprout easily, such as Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, and boxleaf euonymus. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, and Aglaia odorata, cut back after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud stripping and bud removal?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterflies, rose sawflies, and peach red-necked longhorn beetles. Pay attention to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Pay attention to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers.
Potted plants suitable for display on balconies
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry-hot air. Only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or those long placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as Japanese black pine, Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song', five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, boxleaf euonymus, Oriental arborvitae stump, Sabina chinensis, creeping juniper, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, Fujian tea, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave, Lantana camara, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, trident maple, and Buddhist pine. In August, some flowers and trees on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium grandiflorum, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda, Oncidium, South American cycad, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem, Calathea, areca palm, queen palm, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Swiss cheese plant, Aspidistra elatior, pothos, bamboo palm, money tree, clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, shrimp plant, Dracaena fragrans, and Japanese fatsia.
Propagation of balcony flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film to propagate some ornamental plants by moisture-retaining cuttings. The cutting substrate can be rice husk ash mixed with fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera octophylla, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata', Begonia 'Coccinea', gardenia, shrimp plant, Justicia carnea, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline fruticosa, jasmine, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', camellia, sasanqua, and banana shrub. During the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Some ornamental plants can also be water-propagated indoors, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera octophylla, Japanese aucuba, fig, Cordyline fruticosa, Plumeria rubra, geranium, Aglaonema modestum, and fuchsia.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying balcony potted flowers should be done carefully and cautiously. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the timing of watering and spraying, which can be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the need of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, bricks can be used to build a simple sand bed, with 10 cm of wet sand placed inside, and then some potted flowers that prefer moisture can be placed on the wet sand, such as: Swiss cheese plant, Aspidistra elatior, Philodendron 'Little Angel', camellia, sasanqua, Syngonium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, bromeliads, red (green) gem, and Chloranthus spicatus. Usually use spraying instead of watering, which is very beneficial for their safe overwintering in summer. For Cymbidium grandiflorum, Cymbidium hookerianum, Oncidium, Cattleya, fuchsia, Dendrobium, Anthurium crystallinum, and Alocasia amazonica, they can be moved to an air-conditioned room and sprayed instead of watered to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, boxleaf euonymus, trident maple, Japanese black pine, Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song', wisteria, Fujian tea, Adina rubella, agave, and sago palm, they can be watered 1 to 2 times a day and sprayed 1 to 2 times a day.
2. Fertilizing. In August, stop fertilizing balcony potted plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state. For vigorously growing foliage plants, spray or water with 0.3% urea solution, or scatter multi-element compound fertilizer granules on the pot surface. For flowers and trees grown mainly for flowers and fruit, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, and kumquat, continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, Ilex cornuta, holly, Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, trident maple, Adina rubella, and boxleaf euonymus, after each pruning, apply one thin fertilizer.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot bonsai, such as five-needle pine, Buddhist pine, Sabina chinensis, Fujian tea, plum blossom, and trident maple, cover the pot surface with soft grass, moss, or wet cloth, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature and protect the plants' nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, shade netting can be used to block light. If there are not many potted flowers and trees on the balcony and they are relatively precious, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, Serissa japonica, Fraxinus chinensis, oak, small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Sabina chinensis, Oriental arborvitae, Chinese privet, boxleaf euonymus, and firethorn, pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For other potted ornamental plants, spent flowers, withered stalks, dead branches, and yellow leaves should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and should be promptly sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowers and trees, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, it is advisable to spray with 90% trichlorfon crystals at 1000 times dilution.

Flower Planting Handbook (September Volume)

Flowers suitable for display in courtyards
In September, temperatures in most parts of China gradually decline, with the monthly average temperature between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are relatively many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for display in courtyards. Among the woody ornamental plant species are: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese umbrella pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Buddhist pine, Podocarpus nagi, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian cycad, Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus variegata, Chinese hibiscus, cotton rose, Yucca elephantipes, croton, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Schefflera actinophylla, bamboo palm, Plumeria rubra, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Japanese fatsia, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata', ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm, Chinese rose, fishtail palm, areca palm, queen palm, Cordyline fruticosa, pygmy date palm, fiddle-leaf fig, red maple, South American cycad, spruce species, Schefflera octophylla, Garcinia subelliptica, giant Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, orange jasmine, Dracaena, and nandina. Herbaceous flowers include: large-flowered canna, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, Begonia 'Coccinea', marigold, ornamental pepper, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, and snapdragon.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, banana shrub species, magnolia species, manglietia species, buckeye species, summer wintersweet, and Canary Island date palm. Among them, buckeye seeds can be sown in furrows, with the hilum facing down when sowing, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm, then covered with plastic film or straw to retain moisture. Summer wintersweet seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours and then sown in the ground, and seedlings will emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for summer wintersweet, which can be dry-stored until spring sowing, all the other species mentioned above must be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, dianthus, tall catchfly, dwarf catchfly, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, and verbena. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, nasturtium, cineraria, wax begonia, Gerbera, and calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but must overwinter in a plastic tunnel.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice husk ash as the cutting substrate, flower and tree species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in courtyards include: firethorn, Mahonia, banana shrub, bougainvillea, Weigela florida, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata', fuchsia, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, weigela, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia carnea, rubber tree, Schefflera octophylla, and Cordyline fruticosa. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood species, Magnolia denudata, St. John's wort, spirea, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, Spiraea thunbergii, Hydrangea macrophylla, French holly, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, Serissa japonica, gardenia, Japanese fatsia, Chaenomeles speciosa, and tree peony. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, and cold chrysanthemum.
3. Grafting. The following flower and tree grafts can be carried out: use peony root sections as rootstock and graft superior tree peony cultivars; use seedlings of hairy peach, apricot, etc. as rootstocks and bud-graft to propagate flowering almond, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, and plum blossom; use green maple seedlings as rootstock and bag-moisture-retaining cleft-graft red maple and laceleaf maple; use Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft superior Magnolia denudata and Magnolia soulangeana cultivars; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as rootstock and cleft-graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft kumquat; use Chionanthus retusus as rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock and cleft-graft superior wintersweet cultivars.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, weigela, Hydrangea macrophylla, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, Forsythia suspense, osmanthus, Magnolia denudata, jasmine, banana shrub, camellia, Chloranthus spicatus, French holly, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, and spirea.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, peony, tree peony, Aglaonema modestum, purple triangular oxalis, Rudbeckia laciniata, snake plant, Philodendron 'Little Angel', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Boston fern, nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, Magnolia denudata, Liriope graminifolia, Aspidistra elatior, and Liriope platyphylla. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, Lycoris, and Scilla peruviana can also have their small bulbs divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless required by special circumstances, flower and tree transplanting is generally not carried out in courtyards. If it is for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out provided that soil balls are kept intact. Species include: oleander, Chinese juniper, banana shrub, Sabina chinensis, osmanthus, camellia, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, boxwood species, St. John's wort, French holly, red-flowered photinia, and Japanese aucuba 'Variegata'. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and watering, spraying, and shading management must be strengthened to ensure that transplanting is foolproof. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted up for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, French marigold, snapdragon, cockscomb, periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, small dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, and early chrysanthemum.
2. Pruning. Continue to prune courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants that grow vigorously and have strong sprouting ability. This is also the last pruning of the growing season for ball-shaped plants in northern regions this year. Courtyard hedges and color-block tree species suitable for pruning mainly include: boxwood species, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, glossy privet, Chinese privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, and golden-edge Oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis). Ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: Chinese juniper, Sabina chinensis, boxwood, bayberry, Ilex cornuta, holly, Photinia, Japanese pittosporum, firethorn, and Forsythia suspense. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be tip-pruned and pinched include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, summer cypress, marigold, and French marigold. Pinching should be done once every 10 days to promote a full plant shape and produce more inflorescences on lateral shoots, and stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that continue blooming for a long time, such as cultivar roses, floribunda roses, miniature roses, climbing roses, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Lantana camara, and bougainvillea, promptly cut off spent flowers and withered stalks, and moderately cut back the branches that have already flowered, which can effectively promote reblooming.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year, continuing to do a good job of watering and spraying management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival results. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw ropes wrapped around the trunks to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunks; third, spray water on the crowns to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of spraying to retain moisture.
4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, red maple, red-flowered photinia, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', croton, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata', red mulberry, red-leaf sand cherry, red-leaf plum, and red-leaf peach, in order to keep their leaf color fresh and bright at all times, appropriately apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For ground-planted flowers and trees that continue blooming continuously or are viewed for flowers and fruit in autumn, such as crape myrtle, Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Calamondin, flowering pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, Lantana camara, nandina, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, and kumquat, as well as a large number of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, it is advisable to apply quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, and orange osmanthus that are blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth that harms crape myrtle, firethorn, crabapple, and other flowers and trees, spray 90% trichlorfon crystals at 800 times dilution for control; for the star longhorn beetle that harms crape myrtle, papaya, and crabapple, insert poison sticks into the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution in the early stage of the disease for control.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flower and trees of the Magnoliaceae family. Such as Oyama magnolia, banana shrub, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia wilsonii, Michelia chapensis, Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, and southern magnolia. In addition, there are also buckeye species, crape myrtle, lilac, crabapple species, redbud, Exochorda racemosa, yew, and shining wintersweet. For Magnoliaceae as well as yew, buckeye, and crabapple species, after treatment the seeds must be stored in wet sand until early spring of the following year, and sown in the ground after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, impatiens, four o'clock flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, and China aster. After collection, thresh promptly and dry-store until spring of the following year for sowing.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In September, the light is strong, the temperature is high, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers must not be neglected. As for watering frequency, for generally moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month water or spray once each in the morning and afternoon; in the second half of the month, reduce to watering once, with appropriate misting of the leaves. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves. Water before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidic conditions, add a small amount of 0.1% light-green ferrous sulfate powder to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after autumn from summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or misting). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil around the plants once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is precisely the period of vigorous growth for most flowers. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as the temperature gradually cools, so fertilization management should be given great attention this month. For foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), Chinese perfume plant (Aglaia odorata), Cinnamomum species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix tree), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), fishtail palm (Caryota), golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum), red (green) gem (Fittonia), green imperial (Aglaonema), silver queen (Aglaonema), Calathea/Maranta species, Syngonium podophyllum, fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata) and so on, still mainly use low-concentration dilute fertilizer liquid, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flowering trees and shrubs with a very long flowering period or with their peak flowering season in autumn, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), three-color sage (Lantana camara), five-color sage (Lantana camara), pomegranate, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, four-season osmanthus, daily-fragrant osmanthus, sweet osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans) and so on; for fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Ardisia crenata, firethorn (Pyracantha), papaya, golden bullet tree (Diospyros armata), callicarpa (Callicarpa), fruiting pomegranate and so on; and for colorful-leaf plants such as croton (Codiaeum variegatum), gold-sprinkled Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica), bromeliads, variegated banyan (Ficus), golden-edged Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), Cordyline fruticosa, coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides) and so on, apply fertilizer types with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. For fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), geranium (Pelargonium), calla lily (Zantedeschia), cyclamen, begonia (Begonia semperflorens), Daphne odora, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), Sedum species, purslane tree (Portulacaria afra, jade leaf), purple triangular wood sorrel (Oxalis triangularis), clivia (Clivia miniata), Epiphyllum and so on that are resuming growth, resume applying low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for flowers that have completed flower-bud differentiation and entered the flower-bud swelling stage, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), camellia sasanqua, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom, banana shrub (Michelia figo), rhododendron and so on, apply low-concentration fertilizer types with balanced nutrition; for potted herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), marigold (Tagetes erecta), chrysanthemum, China aster (Callistephus chinensis), dahlia, dwarf sunflower and so on, apply a thin fertilizer once every 10 days to meet their needs for bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, the temperature is high and the sunlight is still fierce, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving and cool-preferring foliage plant species, such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, kidney fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), bird's nest fern (Asplenium nidus), Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea/Maranta species, golden pothos, broadleaf lady palm, green imperial, silver queen, orchid grass, pink-and-white leaf (Dieffenbachia), Arecastrum romanzoffianum, Aspidistra elatior, begonia, Epipremnum pinnatum, little angel (Aglaonema), red (green) gem, crystal anthurium (Anthurium crystallinum), black-leaf alocasia (Alocasia amazonica), nerve plant (Fittonia), red-vein shrimp plant (Justicia), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Schefflera octophylla, variegated brake fern (Pteris), watermelon peperomia (Peperomia argyreia), variegated dieffenbachia (Dieffenbachia), green giant (Monstera), anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum), staghorn fern (Platycerium), mirror grass (Pilea peperomioides), Adina pilulifera, emperor palm (Areca), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana) and so on, give 5 to 6 hours of light per day through shading; for light-loving species such as trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Fukien tea (Carmona retusa), ginkgo, water willow (Adina rubella), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis, stump), Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), crape myrtle, Norfolk Island pine, wisteria, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, firethorn, Chinese rose, oak (Xylosma), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus chinensis) and so on, full sunlight may be given; for semi-shade-loving species such as Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), red machilus (Syzygium buxifolium), osmanthus, Epiphyllum, heavenly bamboo, jade tree (Crassula ovata), rhododendron species, camellia, camellia sasanqua, finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), bitter orange, kumquat and so on, appropriate shading may be given around noon. Newly transplanted potted autumn herbaceous flowers should also be appropriately shaded to prevent the plants from wilting and affecting their recovery growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue the work of bud removal and disbudding; for Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus, bougainvillea, Lantana camara, gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), coral flower (Jatropha) and so on, prune after each flowering; for those stump bonsai species that tolerate pruning, sprout easily and grow vigorously, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, Fukien tea, banyan, red machilus, small-leaf privet, water willow, boxleaf holly (Buxus sinica), Chinese arborvitae (stump), true juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus chinensis), tamarisk (Tamarix) and so on, continue pruning or bud pinching. In addition, money tree seedlings can be braided into "braids" and potted up.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on potted plum blossom, crabapple, longevity peach, ornamental peach and other plants, insert poisonous sticks to block and kill them, or control them by burying furadan granules. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, felt scale and so on appearing on potted flowering trees and shrubs, use 40% Supracide 1500-times solution for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have long been placed on the balcony or relatively resistant potted flowering trees and shrubs can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, golden five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora 'Aurea'), red pine, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, water willow, trident maple, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), wintersweet, ornamental fruiting pomegranate, boxleaf holly (Buxus sinica), Chinese arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, Fukien tea, Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus chinensis), banyan, bougainvillea, Chinese rose, agave, ginkgo, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chinese hackberry (Celtis sinensis), Buddhist pine, Siberian elm (Ulmus pumila), snow-in-June (Serissa japonica), firethorn, Lantana camara and so on. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they may continue to be placed in air-conditioned rooms, such as Cymbidium, Oncidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda, spider orchid (Brassia), black-leaf alocasia, crystal anthurium, anthurium, clivia, fuchsia, nerve plant and so on; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as broadleaf lady palm, Monstera deliciosa, Brazilian wood, money tree, golden pothos, Aspidistra elatior, areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), fishtail palm, king coconut (Archontophoenix), spotted trunk tree, gold-sprinkled Japanese aucuba, Schefflera octophylla and so on. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony, large-diameter flower pots can still be used as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of half rice-hull ash and half wet sand, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and some ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as gardenia, Cordyline fruticosa, gold-sprinkled Japanese aucuba, Schefflera octophylla, daily-fragrant osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, camellia, camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus, jasmine, red-back osmanthus (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), coral flower, gold-bract flower, banana shrub, silver queen Aglaonema and so on. Schefflera octophylla, Chinese rose, gardenia, fig, Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema) and so on can also be water-propagated indoors.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that relatively prefer moisture, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, lady's slipper orchid (Paphiopedilum), Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, camellia, camellia sasanqua, little angel, Chloranthus, bromeliads and so on, they can be placed on wooden slats resting over a balcony water pool or water vat, or placed in a simple self-built sand bed, and normally misting replaces watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, mist more and water less, so as to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, mist at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even a relatively drought-tolerant five-needle pine bonsai will lose water and die if not watered or misted for 5 to 7 days. For relatively resistant potted ornamental plants placed on the balcony, continue watering once a day and misting 1 to 2 times a day, or use the immersion method to prevent the phenomenon of the potting soil being wet on top and dry below. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, and note that the water temperature should not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light-green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, appropriately apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for vigorously growing potted stumps, apply a thin liquid fertilizer once after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowering trees and shrubs mainly for viewing flowers and fruits, such as Michelia alba, Chinese rose, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, Chloranthus, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, kumquat and so on, continue applying quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for potted flowers that have completed flower-bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as camellia, camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, sweet osmanthus, chrysanthemum and so on, according to the different species, apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a multi-element compound fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The types of fertilizer applied to flowering trees and shrubs on the balcony should not carry an unusual odor, especially not a foul smell, and when applying, be careful not to splash down to the floor below, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet grass, moss, wet cloth and so on; when there are not many potted flowers, they can be moved indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, water willow, boxleaf holly, trident maple, banyan, Fukien tea, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, creeping juniper (Sabina procumbens), small-leaf privet, Chinese fringe tree and so on, pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowering trees and shrubs, dead branches, yellow leaves, faded flowers and rotten stalks should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperature and dry air, and potted flowering trees and shrubs are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be sprayed and killed with 25% Omite wettable powder 1500-times solution; for the double-striped fir longhorn beetle appearing on Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper and juniper (Juniperus) bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on plum blossom, crabapple, papaya, longevity peach and other flowering trees and shrubs, continue inserting poisonous sticks or burying furadan for control; for the various scale insects harming camellia, firethorn, crape myrtle, wintersweet and other flowering trees and shrubs, when the number is small they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide 1500-times solution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures drop across most of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month there are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, Japanese golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), whitebark pine (Pinus bungeana), Japanese fir (Abies firma), spruce species, Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine (Nageia nagi), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), Dutch iron (Yucca), Chinese perfume plant (Aglaia odorata), Lanyu cinnamon (Cinnamomum kotoense), sweet osmanthus, cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), rubber tree, Schefflera octophylla, variegated banyan, Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), golden larch (Pseudolarix), croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, broadleaf lady palm, bottle palm (Nolina recurvata), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), gold-sprinkled Japanese aucuba, thick-leaf fig (Ficus), fishtail palm, areca palm, king coconut, Cordyline fruticosa, beautiful date palm (Phoenix roebelenii), fiddle-leaf fig, desert rose (Adenium obesum), South American cycad (Zamia), Fukugi (Garcinia subelliptica), Buddha-belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), red maple (Acer palmatum), silver birch (Grevillea robusta), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, ludou tree, orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata), heavenly bamboo and so on. Herbaceous flowers include: scarlet sage, large-flowered canna (Canna generalis), dahlia, China aster, chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, bamboo-node begonia, dragon-mouth flower (Antirrhinum), French marigold (Tagetes patula), marigold, five-color pepper (Capsicum), cockscomb (Celosia), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), petunia, Guinea impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri) and so on. It should be noted: in North China, Northeast China and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention must be paid to cold protection for southern flowers cultivated in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), Michelia species, Magnolia species, manglietia species, horse chestnut species (Aesculus), summer sweetshrub (Calycanthus floridus), Fugui zi, soapberry (Sapindus), kuding tea (Ilex kudingcha), Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine (Nageia nagi), French holly (Viburnum awabuki), Elaeocarpus (Elaeocarpus), beautiful date palm, Chinese yew (Taxus chinensis), fan palm (Livistona), privet, small-leaf privet, camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), Haixian flower (Weigela), windmill palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), pond cypress (Taxodium ascendens) and so on. Among them, when sowing horse chestnut, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing summer sweetshrub, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except that the seeds of summer sweetshrub and Haixian flower can be dry-stored until sowing the next spring, for all the other species the seeds can be cleaned, stored in wet sand to promote germination until the next spring when the seeds crack and show white, and then sown. Note that before storage for germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean; the water content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released, and the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock (Alcea rosea), mallow (Malva), corn poppy (Papaver rhoeas), pot marigold, snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), Dianthus species, pansy (Viola tricolor), Boston ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), dwarf catchfly (Silene), tall catchfly (Silene), California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), daisy (Bellis perennis), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), iris, verbena and so on. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium (Tropaeolum), gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), petunia, cineraria (Pericallis), four-season primrose (Primula), African daisy (Gerbera), calceolaria (Calceolaria) can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: red-back osmanthus (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), Schefflera octophylla, night-blooming jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum), Lantana camara, firethorn, mahonia (Mahonia), finger citron, bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia, aucuba, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, jasmine, Chloranthus, red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii), golden-leaf privet, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, Haixian flower (Weigela), Reeves spiraea (Spiraea cantoniensis), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea japonica), bridal wreath spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), Hypericum, red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), Chinese rose, snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), crape myrtle, hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus), oleander (Nerium oleander), fig, Chaenomeles speciosa (Chaenomeles speciosa) and so on. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice-hull ash, using fully closed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for cuttings of some southern flowering trees and shrubs, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention must be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, begonia (Begonia semperflorens), bamboo-node begonia, inch plant (Tradescantia zebrina), golden pothos (Epipremnum), clearweed (Pilea), coral flower, gold-bract flower, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), golden-vein shrimp plant (Justicia), winter chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum) and so on. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, bag and keep moist to graft five-needle pine (including Osaka pine) and Jin pine; use peony roots as rootstock to graft superior varieties of tree peony; use 1-year-old trident maple seedlings as rootstock, bag and keep moist to graft red maple, feather maple and so on; use 1-year-old white magnolia seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft superior varieties of white magnolia, Erqiao magnolia (Magnolia soulangeana), red-flowered magnolia and so on; use three-edged arrow (Hylocereus undatus) as rootstock to graft various cactus balls; use 1-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft kumquat.

    4. Layering. Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by ground layering include: camellia, plum blossom, Haixian flower (Weigela), hydrangea, weigela (Weigela florida), Chaenomeles speciosa (Chaenomeles speciosa), August osmanthus, snowball, snowball viburnum, purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), gardenia, Hypericum, French holly, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), golden bell (Forsythia), Michelia, bridal wreath spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), red-flowered spiraea and so on.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: heavenly bamboo, leatherleaf mahonia, mahonia, tree peony, Chaenomeles speciosa (Chaenomeles speciosa), Reeves spiraea (Spiraea cantoniensis), double-flowered kerria (Kerria japonica), bridal wreath spiraea, spiraea, sago palm and so on. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: peony (Paeonia lactiflora), hosta (Hosta), Cymbidium goeringii, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), bird of paradise (Strelitzia), Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Persian buttercup (Ranunculus asiaticus), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), iris, blackberry lily, lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis), Guangdong evergreen, silver queen Aglaonema, purple triangular wood sorrel, multi-head green imperial, kidney fern, Aspidistra elatior and so on. Flower species that can be propagated by dividing bulbs include: calla lily, amaryllis (Hippeastrum), freesia, spider lily (Lycoris), tulip, Mediterranean bluebell (Scilla peruviana) and so on.

Management of courtyard field-planted flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after Frost's Descent arrives and the leaves fall, such as hibiscus, redbud (Cercis chinensis), elm-leaved plum (Prunus triloba), pomegranate, lilac, red-leaf plum, purple magnolia, ornamental peach, longevity peach, floribunda rose, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet and so on. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as leatherleaf mahonia, heavenly bamboo, Sabina chinensis, Chinese juniper, golden-edged thousand-head Chinese arborvitae, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, large-leaf box (Euonymus japonicus), boxleaf holly, sparrow-tongue box (Buxus bodinieri) and so on, when transplanting, first, shorten-prune before transplanting; second, carry a good soil ball; third, strengthen watering and misting management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted out include: Dianthus, daisy, hollyhock, ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), pansy, pot marigold, verbena, phlox, snapdragon, autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes), dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon), Reineckea carnea and so on. Bulbous flower species that can be field-planted include: narcissus, pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), tulip, hyacinth and so on.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, red-flowered loropetalum (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum), golden-edged thousand-head Chinese arborvitae, golden-edged box (Euonymus), large-leaf box, boxleaf holly, French holly, privet, Luomu photinia (Photinia davidsoniae), small-leaf privet and so on. Ball-shaped plants needing pruning include: Chinese juniper, box, bayberry (Myrica), Chinese holly, wintergreen, photinia, pittosporum, firethorn and so on. For continuously flowering field-planted flowering trees and shrubs in the courtyard, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, Lantana camara, bougainvillea and so on, continue cutting off faded flowers and rotten stalks, and appropriately shorten-prune the branches that have already flowered. For field-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as scarlet sage, marigold, globe amaranth and so on, promptly cut off the opened inflorescences to promote the side shoots to continue producing flowers and blooming, thereby extending the viewing period.

    3. Watering. For courtyard flowering trees and shrubs newly planted this year, continue doing watering and misting work well: first, keep the root soil moist, but there must be no standing water; second, continue misting the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do the misting and moisture-retaining work well.

    4. Fertilizing. For field-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, apply quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium; for osmanthus types that have already flowered, open ring-shaped trenches and bury base fertilizer; for Chinese rose, crabapple, crape myrtle, cotton rose and camellia, Michelia, plum blossom, wintersweet and so on that have already been pruned, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for heavenly bamboo, firethorn and southern finger citron, kumquat, bitter orange, golden bullet tree and so on that are in the fruit-viewing state, appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer by watering, which can effectively extend the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For wood-boring pests appearing on field-planted plum blossom, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, crabapple and so on, continue using poisonous sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime-sulfur mixture on the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species from which seeds can be collected include: Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine (Nageia nagi), soapberry, horse chestnut, purple magnolia, white magnolia, manglietia, southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), mountain magnolia (Magnolia delavayi), Huangshan magnolia (Magnolia amoena), yellow magnolia (Michelia champaca), golden-leaf Michelia, deep-mountain Michelia (Michelia maudiae), red-flowered manglietia (Manglietia insignis), broad-petal Michelia, pond cypress, broadleaf lady palm, Ardisia crenata, beautiful date palm, fan palm, kuding tea, French holly, camphor tree, privet, small-leaf privet, snowball viburnum, hall crabapple (Malus halliana), papaya, sago palm, ginkgo, Chinese yew, oil tea (Camellia oleifera) and so on; these seeds must all be stored in wet sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored include: crape myrtle, Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), red maple, trident maple, golden larch (Pseudolarix), dawn redwood (Metasequoia), Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria), Chinese tallow (Sapium sebiferum), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria), cotton rose, southern sour jujube (Choerospondias axillaris), redbud, camptotheca (Camptotheca acuminata), Bischofia polycarpa (Bischofia polycarpa), five-angle maple (Acer truncatum) and so on. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: scarlet sage, cockscomb, zinnia, globe amaranth, small dahlia, marigold, French marigold, China aster, impatiens, four-o'clock (Mirabilis jalapa), Kochia scoparia, strawflower (Helichrysum bracteatum), cosmos, mountain snow (Euphorbia marginata), painted spurge (Euphorbia heterophylla), sensitive plant (Mimosa pudica), dancing grass (Codariocalyx motorius) and so on.

In addition, at the end of October, for canna, dahlia and so on, when their aboveground parts are close to withering, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keep the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and cut and divide them for planting again the next spring.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huaihe River the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and thorough. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as rubber tree, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, golden pothos, Syngonium podophyllum, Chinese perfume plant (Aglaia odorata), Lanyu cinnamon (Cinnamomum kotoense), green giant, red gem and so on, on sunny days water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species such as calla lily, cyclamen, clivia, purslane tree, Daphne odora, geranium, fuchsia and so on, increase the watering amount. For wintersweet, plum blossom, camellia and so on that bloom in winter and early spring, control watering and mist more, to facilitate the swelling of their flower buds. In northern regions, for flower species relatively sensitive to cold, reduce watering, which can accelerate the lignification of their new shoots and help them overwinter safely. The best watering time is 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn cools, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, clivia, cyclamen, Chinese cymbidium (Cymbidium sinense), Belgian azalea, pheasant's eye narcissus and so on that bloom in winter or early spring, continue applying a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants such as bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, heavenly bamboo, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Fuji pearl, golden bullet tree and so on, in early to mid-October a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied.

    3. Shading. For some extremely shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea/Maranta species, Syngonium podophyllum, green gem (Fittonia), Boston fern, peperomia species and so on, during the 2 to 3 hours around noon, shading is still needed.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, first cut off dead branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, weak branches and so on; for leggy branches, carry out strong shortening pruning; for binding materials that have been in place for 1 to 2 years, they can be removed, or after removal re-bound, to prevent long-term binding at a fixed position from injuring the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species not tolerant of low temperatures below 10°C can be promptly moved into greenhouses; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or stump bonsai, at the end of the month they can be buried and planted in wind-sheltered, sunny soil to prevent the potting soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin region, weather change information should be accurately grasped to avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowering trees and shrubs, collect them uniformly and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control aphids, chrysanthemum tiger, leaf-miner larvae, inchworms and other pests.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    On the balcony in early to mid-October, there is still strong light and dry air. Only those potted flowering trees and shrubs that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have relatively strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, japanese pine, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, water willow, Chinese fringe tree, Fukien tea, Buddhist pine, Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), boxleaf holly, pomegranate, bougainvillea, thick-leaf fig, ginkgo, Chinese rose, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, sago palm, firethorn, Lantana camara, tamarisk, red maple and so on. Some cold-intolerant southern flowering tree and shrub species, when the temperature drops to 10°C, can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary rooms at the beginning of the month, such as Cymbidium, crystal anthurium, nerve plant, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis, Oncidium and so on. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon and placed on the balcony at other times, such as broadleaf lady palm, Brazilian wood, money tree, golden pothos, Aspidistra elatior, areca palm, fishtail palm, king coconut, bandou, Schefflera octophylla and so on. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowering trees and shrubs can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, on the balcony, wide-mouth large flower pots can continue to be used as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of half rice-hull ash and half wet sand, or vermiculite alone can be used as the cutting substrate, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and a small number of ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as gardenia, Schefflera octophylla, rubber tree, aucuba, Michelia, jasmine, Chloranthus, Guangdong evergreen, coral flower, gold-bract flower, shrimp plant, Chinese hibiscus, finger citron, silver queen Aglaonema, golden pothos, geranium and so on.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as sago palm, banyan, rubber tree, Schefflera octophylla, Brazilian wood, money tree, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine and so on, water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for species that have already formed good flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, camellia, camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea and so on, watering should not be excessive, and at the same time mist the branches and leaves, which can effectively promote the swelling of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, little angel, Aspidistra elatior, Cordyline fruticosa, bird's nest fern, anthurium, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea/Maranta species, golden pothos and so on, all should be mainly misted and secondarily watered, so as to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as clivia, cyclamen, calla lily, as well as Cymbidium, bromeliads, Chinese cymbidium (Cymbidium sinense) and so on, apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean (Fortunella), lemon, heavenly bamboo, golden bullet tree, Fuji pearl, firethorn, winter coral and so on that are mainly for fruit viewing, continue applying a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine and so on, in early October apply 1 to 2 times thin phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to help them overwinter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from compacting, continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet grass, moss, wet cloth and so on; especially for shallow-pot stump bonsai, even more attention should be paid. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on clear days during the 3 to 4 hours around noon, they can be moved indoors. The shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, banyan, Fukien tea, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper, privet, Chinese fringe tree and so on, necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been bound for more than a year, they can first be untied, and if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, a new binding position can be changed for further wiring and fixation, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious harm to the plant. For ordinary potted flowering trees and shrubs, such as Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, Chinese flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), hall crabapple and so on, appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the trunk, which can both protect the xylem of the trunk and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the next year.
Flower Planting Manual (November)

    Weather characteristics of November: this month is the turn between autumn and winter. November 7 is the Beginning of Winter, the start of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow, when snow begins in the Yellow River basin and areas to the north, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, the maintenance of flowering trees and shrubs should attach importance to two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning field-planted flowering trees and shrubs, whitewashing trunks and removing pests, turning the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively doing cold protection and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic tunnels. This month's flower affairs management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: nasturtium, gloxinia, tuberous begonia (Begonia tuberhybrida), cyclamen, African daisy, clivia, asparagus fern, hosta and so on.

    Flowering tree and shrub species that can be sown as collected in November include: bridal wreath spiraea (Spiraea cantoniensis), small-leaf privet, privet, camphor tree, pencil cedar (Juniperus virginiana), Chinese podocarpus (Nageia nagi), Buddhist pine, soapberry, coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), windmill palm, French holly, photinia, Chinese photinia (Photinia davidsoniae) and so on.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be carried out, but plastic film mulching must be added. Flowering tree and shrub species for heat preservation and cold protection mainly include: red-leaf plum, plum blossom (referring to green calyx, palace pink and other varieties), Chinese rose (referring to floribunda rose, Elizabeth and other easy-to-root varieties), Chinese flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa) and so on.

    Flowering tree and shrub species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: red-leaf plum, hall crabapple, Chinese flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), Chinese holly, wintergreen, Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), Chinese elm, snow-in-June and so on. Some of these root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be densely planted and propagated by cuttings in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in November include: boxleaf holly, sparrow-tongue box, large-leaf box, silver-edged box, clearweed, golden-edged privet, gardenia, Hypericum, goldencup St. John's wort (Hypericum patulum), mahonia, golden-edged snow-in-June and so on. If managed properly, complete root systems can grow by the next spring, and they can be used for field planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening forms. In winter, in greenhouses, bamboo-node begonia, mingleaf begonia, lotus-leaf begonia, geranium, Chinese hibiscus, fuchsia, jade tree, purslane tree, red-back osmanthus, gold-bract flower, shrimp plant and so on can also be propagated by cuttings, and after spring begins they can be used for potting and cultivation.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of cotton rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, grape and so on can also be cut and stored until the next spring for cuttings, which can significantly speed up their rooting and increase the survival rate of cuttings.

    3. Grafting. Use green maple seedlings as rootstock, bag indoors to graft red maple and feather maple; use apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft plum blossom (bury the graft union in soil to overwinter); use thick strong branches of Chinese rose (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock scion, and use branches of superior Chinese rose varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttings, so as to promote the simultaneous healing of the graft union and rooting of the lower cut, which can speed up the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of superior Chinese rose varieties.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree and shrub species that can be propagated by ground layering in November mainly include: Chinese flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), gardenia, small-leaf gardenia, pomegranate, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, Buddhist pine, weigela, sweet osmanthus, hydrangea, purple magnolia, Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Michelia, bridal wreath spiraea (Spiraea cantoniensis), snowball, snowball viburnum, thunberg spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii) and so on.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: Chinese flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), bridal wreath spiraea (Spiraea cantoniensis), thunberg spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), red-flowered spiraea, blunt-lobed spicebush (Lindera obtusiloba), Hypericum, goldencup St. John's wort (Hypericum patulum), mahonia, butterfly bush (Buddleja), tree peony, pea shrub (Caragana frutex), winter jasmine, golden bell, jasmine (Jasminum), jasmine, Chloranthus, phoenix bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), feibai bamboo and so on.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlia, canna and large-flowered canna can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the next spring, and then cut, divided, planted and established.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: hardy orchid (Bletilla striata), Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, hosta, purple hosta, blackberry lily, iris, ornamental bromeliads, large-leaf lilyturf (Liriope), Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily, evergreen (Rohdea japonica), Aspidistra elatior, mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana) and so on.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, zinnia, China aster, French marigold, marigold, musk mallow (Abelmoschus) and so on.

    Flowering tree and shrub species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: black pine, Huangshan pine (Pinus taiwanensis), five-needle pine, dawn redwood, false cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera), Japanese false cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera), Japanese cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), silk tree, sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), camptotheca, eucommia (Eucommia ulmoides), red-twig dogwood (Cornus alba), Chinese tallow, wisteria, crape myrtle, pea shrub (Caragana), bridal wreath spiraea (Spiraea cantoniensis). Flowering tree and shrub species that can be sown as collected or must be stored in wet sand include: privet, small-leaf privet, windmill palm, camphor tree, pencil cedar, soapberry, Chinese wolfberry (Lycium), Chinese yew, southern magnolia, wintergreen, Chinese holly, firethorn, photinia, Chinese photinia (Photinia davidsoniae), Chinese rose (used for cultivating rootstock) and so on.

   2. Transplanting and establishing. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted for flowerbed establishment and flower border arrangement in November include: dwarf catchfly, Dianthus, hollyhock, mallow, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, daisy, pot marigold, ornamental kale and so on.

    Species that can be transplanted as large trees in November include: camphor tree, southern magnolia, silk tree, soapberry, privet, goldenrain tree, Chinese tallow, white magnolia, sweet osmanthus, red maple, red-leaf plum, plum blossom, wintersweet, horse chestnut, linden (Tilia), giant redbud (Cercis gigantea), Chinese tulip tree, Erqiao magnolia, papaya, crabapple and so on. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately shortened or cut back, and most leaves removed, the trunk bound well with straw rope, and a large soil ball carried (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), only then can survival be ensured; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be cut back and large branches trimmed, with a good soil ball carried and the trunk bound well. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk misting management must be strengthened for survival. In addition, the cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent a large amount of water in the tree from evaporating.

    In November, plum stumps, wintersweet, camellia, camellia sasanqua, Chinese flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), hall crabapple and so on can be transplanted and potted, and placed in plastic tunnels to force flowers, so as to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted hyacinth, tulip, pheasant's eye narcissus and so on should be moved into plastic tunnels to prompt them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels or rooms, the specific standard for how much to water in November is to keep the potting soil moist, and it must not be too wet; if the temperature is on the low side and too much water is applied, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, appropriately increase the watering amount and give necessary leaf misting.

For those potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria and so on, as well as fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, firethorn, heavenly bamboo, winter coral, Fuji pearl and so on, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be frequently misted, to facilitate the swelling and growth of the flower buds and also to make the fruits appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses and rooms, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be frequently misted, so that they always remain verdant and glossy. In relatively warmer greenhouses and rooms, the watering amount can be increased. For less cold-tolerant foliage plants, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea/Maranta, pink-and-white leaf (Dieffenbachia), green imperial, croton, silver queen and so on, the watering amount should be controlled to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    In November, the best time for watering potted flowers is 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature is required to be basically consistent with the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants caused by too-low water temperature and thereby affecting their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors where the temperature is above 15°C, species such as Western azalea, camellia, camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, gold-bract flower, shrimp plant, Daphne odora, cineraria, cyclamen, Chinese flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), hyacinth, clivia, tulip, ornamental bromeliads, Christmas cactus, five-color bromeliad and so on, continue applying low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, using 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer solution, which can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees and shrubs, foliage plants, bonsai and so on placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, stop applying fertilizer, to help them overwinter in normal dormancy. For most field-planted flowering trees and shrubs, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Erqiao magnolia, manglietia, Lechang Michelia (Michelia chapensis), Yunshan white magnolia (Michelia), Michelia, golden-leaf Michelia, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, spiraea, sweet osmanthus, grape, Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, windmill palm, red maple, tree peony, golden bell, peony, Hypericum and so on, bury dry cake fertilizer, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant, less for small plants, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls and ball-shaped forms that have not yet been pruned; after pruning is completed, base fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species mainly shaped by pruning, carry out all-round shaping and pruning, such as Chinese elm, Fukien tea, Sageretia thea, trident maple, oak (Xylosma), Chinese fringe tree, firethorn, snow-in-June, Chinese juniper, Buddhist pine, wintersweet, crabapple and so on, laying a good skeleton for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune field-planted or potted Chinese roses that have not yet been pruned. For each plant, except for retaining 3 to 5 strong 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base, and cut off all thin and weak branches; for unpruned field-planted crape myrtle, carry out strong shortening pruning of the current-year branches, except for retaining 20 cm to 30 cm from the base of a few thick branches, cut off all the remaining current-year branches, to help produce more strong new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowering trees and shrubs in flowerbeds, along roadsides and in courtyards, such as crape myrtle, hibiscus, sweet osmanthus, camphor tree, plane tree (Platanus), purple magnolia, golden bell, plum blossom, wintersweet, cherry blossom, camellia, silk tree, firethorn, pittosporum, crabapple and so on, cut off all disordered branches, weak branches, inner-canopy branches, diseased and pest-infested branches and so on, and appropriately shorten-prune the leggy branches protruding from the crown. In addition, in November, thick palm trees can be peeled of their palm fiber, and the trunks cleaned well, so that they show their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For potted flowering tree and shrub species that are not very sensitive to cold, such as camellia, camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, heavenly bamboo, Norfolk Island pine, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, pinglan flower (Diospyros), bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, kumquat, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera octophylla, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, fishtail palm, rubber tree, money tree, Canary Island date palm, broadleaf lady palm and so on, they can be placed in plastic tunnels, as long as the room temperature is maintained at not lower than about 5°C.

For cold-sensitive potted flowering plants such as arrowroot (Maranta), Calathea, Syngonium, deep-lobed Philodendron, Aglaia, croton, Justicia, Pachystachys, Dracaena fragrans, red (green) gem, giant taro, green emperor, silver queen, frangipani, lucky bamboo, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and Dendrobium, they should be placed indoors where the room temperature is not below 10°C, or they can be protected through the winter in a double-layer plastic greenhouse.

For those relatively cold-hardy bonsai or potted flowering trees, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple types, azalea, pomegranate, Chinese elm, crape myrtle, boxleaf euonymus, Japanese bush cherry, Buddhist pine, five-needle pine, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, trident maple, and red maple, they can be buried directly together with their pots in soil in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot; under conditions not below -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, a film cover and soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in greenhouses, conservatories, or rooms in November, besides ensuring a certain temperature condition, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent the plants from remaining stuffy indoors for a long time, which can cause flower drop, fruit drop, and leaf drop; in addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not enter the room, otherwise it can also easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop in plants. When ventilating, care should also be taken never to let the plants be directly exposed to cold drafts.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees prone to leaf diseases, such as grapes, crabapple types, roses, Chinese roses, camellias, and chrysanthemums, collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases the following year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk and split-trunk stump bonsai, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the dead and split trunk areas for antisepsis, to prevent deep rotting of the stump xylem.

For whiteflies, scale insects, and similar pests appearing on potted flowering trees placed in greenhouses or plastic tunnels (possible on bitter orange, finger citron, sago palm, orchids, camellias, clivia, and Aspidistra), first wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second spray and kill them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (possible on Michelia alba, Aglaia, bitter orange, and Chinese roses), spray tobacco water for control.

For Western azaleas placed in plastic tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizer such as Yemianbao, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    The main types of bonsai plants suitable for shaping in November are: Buddhist pine, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, downy Japanese cypress, creeping juniper, Euonymus pendulus, serissa, plum blossom, wintersweet, Japanese oak, horned holly, holly, boxleaf euonymus, pearl euonymus, Chinese elm, and Hall crabapple.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and suspended with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when relatively deep constriction marks are found on the trunks and branches, the old palm rope can be untied in November, and the trunks and branches can be re-tied and adjusted.

For new tree stumps such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, bougainvillea, water willow, firethorn, and Elaeagnus, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting, and branch pruning, plant them in sandy loam fields using the shallow-burial, high-mounding method, and shape them after they sprout branches the following year.

For tree stumps that have basically taken shape after 1 to 2 years of care and shaping, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots, and branches, select suitable pots and repot them properly, pair them with fist-sized stones, and dot them with moss, so they can be displayed indoors around the Spring Festival.

For well-shaped tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, Chinese juniper, and Hall crabapple, in November suitable pots can be selected for potting and planting, with strengthened water management, and they can be used for display in squares, parks, and auditoriums the following spring.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, most parts of China enter winter, and the weather turns colder. From north to south in China, snowfall increases; temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, with frequent heavy frost. This month, flower and tree care should emphasize three aspects of work: first, do a good job of heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees that have entered greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms; second, do a good job of pruning, cleaning, and soil turning and fertilizing for open-field flowers and trees; third, do a good job of preparing for composting organic fertilizer and mixing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, and African daisy; flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as 'Elizabeth'), heavenly bamboo, Ardisia crenata, holly types, firethorn, palms, privet, camphor tree, small-leaf privet, soapberry, photinia, and Photinia davidsoniae.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flowering trees that can be propagated by open-field cuttings in December include: plum blossom (mainly cultivars such as Gongfen and Lüe); Chinese rose (mainly easy-to-root cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda rose, and miniature rose); red-leaf plum, wintersweet (cutting with heel), spiraea, and boxwood types. Among them, plum blossom and red-leaf plum cuttings should use yellow subsoil; Chinese rose cuttings should use a mixed substrate of rice husk ash and fine sand at 2:1; other types can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film to preserve heat and moisture.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of hibiscus, geranium, orchid cactus, night-blooming cereus, gem flower, Echeveria, portulacaria, kalanchoe, kalanchoe, shrimp plant, wax begonia, bamboo begonia, Rieger begonia, chloranthus, jasmine, bleeding heart vine, lantana, schefflera, daphne, pothos, and Cordyline. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be taken to propagate gardenia, golden-center (golden-edge) boxwood, mahonia, hypericum, forsythia, winter jasmine, Buddhist pine, Japanese cypress, serissa, firethorn, silver bud willow, and three-branched maple. In addition, branches of Chinese trumpet creeper, lilac, and grape can be cut and stored in sand, to be cuttings in spring the following year.

    3. Grafting. Excellent plum cultivars, such as Guhong and Zhusha, can be grafted in December using seedlings sown that year of apricot, fruiting plum, and peach; after digging up the rootstock, perform cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant them on the seedbed at a certain spacing between plants and rows, burying soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion; be careful not to let water seep into the union when watering, cover with plastic film to preserve heat and moisture, and after the scion sprouts the following spring, remove the covering film. Use dug wild rose plants to bud-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars; or use strong branch segments of the 'Elizabeth' Chinese rose cultivar (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose scions on the upper end, then insert the grafted 'Elizabeth' stem segments into a loose seedbed. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil; when watering, do not let water seep into the graft union, cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and heat, and after the scion sprouts the following spring, remove the covering film; only after it has completely survived may a blade be used to cut the binding tape at the union. In addition, red maple can be side-grafted indoors with bagging to preserve moisture.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine, plum blossom, camellia, osmanthus, Michelia figo, Hall crabapple, purple magnolia, snowball viburnum, weigela, gardenia, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, snowbellleaf tickclover, Japanese snowball, spiraea, and pomegranate.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, red woodsorrel, Aspidistra, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, large-leaf lilyturf, lilyturf, Rohdea japonica, kalanchoe, and Aglaonema. When cutting daughter plants from the base of large variegated bromeliad plants, the small plants must have already grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise, the colored bands of the separated daughter plants easily disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: heavenly bamboo, hypericum, mahonia, Hall crabapple, rhapis palm, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana sinica, forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, jasmine, chloranthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, sisal, bamboo palm, and dwarf white-striped bamboo.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally herbaceous flower types moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as Salvia types, globe amaranth types, marigold, French marigold, cyclamen, and clivia. Clivia seeds should be sown immediately after collection.

    Woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December mainly include: Chinese rose, wisteria, privet, small-leaf privet, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, holly types, and camphor tree, and photinia types. After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination; only after the seeds crack open and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage, they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising the following year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds in December include: Dianthus types, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, pot marigold, and daisy. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in plastic tunnels, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, Dianthus, and pansy, and can be used for street display the following spring.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple types, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, red maple, ornamental peach, Chinese scholar tree, and weeping pagoda tree. For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, however, transplanting should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, osmanthus, palms, southern magnolia, camphor tree, azalea, and holly. When transplanting, first heavily reduce and prune the main shoot and large branches, and remove most leaves; at the same time, carry a large soil ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, and seal the cut ends of the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them with film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowering trees that can be potted in December include: plum blossom, wintersweet stumps, camellia, sasanqua, Hall crabapple, and Hall crabapple. Place them in plastic tunnels for flower forcing treatment, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinths, tulips, and red-spathed narcissus, etc., should continue to be kept in tunnels for flower forcing, which can promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic tunnels where the temperature is not below 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without frost damage, such as asparagus fern, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra, Japanese fatsia, spotted laurel, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, rhapis palm, heavenly bamboo, Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, bamboo palm, dwarf white-striped bamboo, and sago palm.

For ornamental plant species requiring an overwintering temperature not below 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine, schefflera, rubber tree, jasmine, Michelia alba, chloranthus, parlor palm, calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose, lantana, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, geranium, hibiscus, and Buddha belly bamboo, they can overwinter in double-layer plastic tunnels. For species requiring an overwintering temperature not below 10°C, such as croton, Caladium, pepperomia, arrowroot, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Fittonia, bromeliad types, Calathea, poinsettia, Cymbidium hybridum, bleeding heart vine, Pachystachys, Aglaia, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Dendrobium, South American cycad, red (green) gem, Oncidium, and Cymbidium hookerianum, in double-layer tunnels with good sealing performance, appropriate heating must also be provided; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, cover the top of the tunnel with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature turns warmer.

For those relatively cold-hardy potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple types, azalea, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Japanese oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood types, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, red cedar, water willow, horned holly, and Chinese fringe tree, when the temperature is not below -10°C, they generally will not freeze; in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or rooms, bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage and fruit ornamental plants, besides maintaining an indoor temperature suitable for them, should also be given attention for ventilation and air permeability; doors and windows can be opened for ventilation around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, attention must also be paid not to let cold wind directly hit the plants, so as to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms, keep the potting soil moist as the standard; if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, it is extremely easy to cause root rot. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give appropriate leaf surface spraying.

For those potted flowering plants that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and European narcissus, and for fruit ornamental types such as bitter orange, lemon, finger citron, calamondin, kumquat, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, and heavenly bamboo, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but leaf surface spraying must also be given, to facilitate the expansion of flower buds and also increase the brightness of flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but leaf surface spraying should also be given, always keeping the plant leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as Calathea, Syngonium, arrowroot, croton, and silver queen, when the room temperature is already close to the lower limit of the minimum temperature they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    In December, the watering time should preferably be the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water temperature being too low.

For newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors, inspect frequently and supplement watering in time; for transplanted evergreen trees, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon to prevent the leaves from drying, shrinking, and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most greening trees and flowering trees planted in the ground, such as crabapple types, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, manglietia, Michelia types, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palms, peony, tree peony, forsythia, hypericum, grape, Chinese rose, spiraea, tulip tree, mock orange, deutzia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, heavenly bamboo, lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, banksia rose, hypericum, weeping willow, Japanese cedar, deodar cedar, cypress types, dragon-claw pagoda tree, flowering almond, Japanese plum, white silk plum, photinia, redbud, and rose of Sharon, in December, while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer perimeter of the root system, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, and septic tank residue, to lay a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, Pachystachys, shrimp plant, bromeliad types, daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Hall crabapple, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, and freesia, continue to apply 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution as a top dressing to promote bud formation and flowering.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped topiary not yet pruned in November. Hedges and green walls include privet, small-leaf privet, French green, large-leaf euonymus, Sabina chinensis, four-season osmanthus, and Photinia davidsoniae; ball-shaped types include horned holly, bayberry, photinia, boxwood types, pittosporum, forsythia, firethorn, dragon juniper, and Chinese juniper. While completing pruning, fertilizer can also be applied.

For ground-planted flowers and trees not yet pruned in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, palms, red-leaf plum, photinia, plane tree, plum blossom, and wintersweet, carry out shaping and pruning; after pruning is completed, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the root system.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned by cutting, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, horned holly, Fujian tea, trident maple, Japanese oak, Chinese fringe tree, firethorn, serissa, Buddhist pine, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, crabapple, and papaya, continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be combined with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grapes, crabapple types, roses, Chinese roses, camellias, and crape myrtle, collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases next year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on primrose, the former should be controlled in time with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For flower and tree types in greenhouses and plastic tunnels that are prone to scale insects, such as bitter orange, finger citron, sago palm, camellia, and Aspidistra, first wipe them with a cloth, then control them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flower and tree species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia, bitter orange, Chinese rose, and Fujian tea, tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-field cultivated plants such as pittosporum, osmanthus, plane tree, camellia, small-leaf privet, firethorn, oleander, crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, deodar cedar, photinia, crape myrtle, and wintersweet, various scale insects often appear, such as horned wax scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and felt scale. At this time, spray and kill with relatively high concentrations of pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin, and pesticide damage is rarely produced.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of seedling raising and potting soil preparation next year, the winter leisure time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, and tea seed cake into water vats or ponds, add water, and seal them for soaking, composting, and fermentation.

Stack dry dead grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, and branches in layers with garden soil, set them on fire and burn them to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken manure, and pigeon manure with garden soil, pile and compost them, and seal for fermentation; this can be used for topdressing seedlings and preparing potting soil next year.

    7. Preparing potting soil. Using the winter free time, find an open space or a spot under tree shade, and pile up as much potting soil as possible to prepare for repotting and potting herbaceous flowers next spring. Generally, use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder, or rice husk ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots, and other debris, then fully mixed evenly, covered with plastic film, or piled indoors; after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning soil and freezing clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cuttings, and planting out seedlings, plowing can be carried out in December; for plots for sowing and planting out seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, and pond mud can be applied before turning and planting; if beds are not made for the time being, after overwintering and freezing clods, trenches can be drawn and beds made in early spring the following year, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Buddhist pine, Japanese cypress, Chinese juniper, Chinese cypress, downy Japanese cypress, oriental arborvitae, creeping juniper, true juniper, black pine, five-needle pine, red pine, water willow, horned holly, holly, Euonymus pendulus, ginkgo, serissa, Caragana sinica, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, wintersweet, tamarisk, Hall crabapple, Hall crabapple, papaya crabapple, boxleaf euonymus, pearl euonymus, wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese fringe tree, and Japanese oak.

For bonsai plants fixed and shaped by coiling with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixing time has already been one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be untied and replaced with metal wire or palm rope for tying, hanging, and pulling.

For ground-planted already-shaped plum stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper, and crape myrtle, after some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so they can be used for display in public places or rooms the following year.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and stump bonsai, careful management is essential: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant root system; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent plants planted on the rockery from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a non-freezing location and given regular watering and spraying so they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperature and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, around the "Sanjiu" period, and most parts of China enter a severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north frequently moves south, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperature of the year appears. This month, the most important thing in flower care is to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, etc. in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms; the next is auxiliary work such as tree pruning, clearing dead branches and fallen leaves, turning and preparing soil, and preparing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, and African daisy. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in open fields include: Chinese rose ('Elizabeth'), heavenly bamboo, Ardisia crenata, holly, firethorn, palms, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry, privet, wisteria, Chinese tallow tree, and goldenrain tree.

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-field or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: plum blossom (cultivars such as Lüe and Gongfen), red-leaf plum, Chinese rose (cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda, and miniature), cherry blossom, wintersweet (with heel), spiraea, boxwood types, pomegranate, silver bud willow, mahonia, Buddhist pine, serissa, three-branched maple, hypericum, forsythia, spiraea, winter jasmine, and Jasminum officinale. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: jasmine, chloranthus, geranium, fuchsia, African violet (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, carnation, umbrella plant, gem flower, jade leaf, jade tree, Echeveria, night-blooming cereus, orchid cactus, Pilea, mirror grass, shrimp plant, Pachystachys, kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, bleeding heart vine, schefflera, rubber tree, daphne, red-back eucalyptus, Aglaonema, pothos, and Cordyline. In addition, branches of lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, Weigela florida, deutzia, hydrangea, plane tree, and fig can be cut and stored in sand, to be cuttings in March.

    3. Grafting. Excellent plum cultivars can use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach, and wild peach as rootstock for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, bury and plant them on the seedbed, cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and protect against cold. In Guangdong, between Minor Cold and Major Cold, budding is often used to propagate calamondin, kumquat, etc.; use dug wild rose to bud-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars, use the 'Elizabeth' Chinese rose cultivar as rootstock scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese roses, grafting and cutting carried out simultaneously, cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and protect against cold.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia, camellia, plum blossom, weigela, gardenia, Hall crabapple, Buddhist pine, snowball viburnum, Japanese snowball, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, snowbellleaf tickclover, spiraea, pomegranate, and red maple.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, silver-edge lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily, Chinese chive lily, hosta, purple hosta, purple-backed Rohdea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, spider plant types, Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema, kalanchoe, bromeliad types, small tulip, shell ginger, Monstera deliciosa, and aloe. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: heavenly bamboo, hypericum, mahonia, Hall crabapple, rhapis palm, spiraea, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana sinica, forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, jasmine, chloranthus, tiger thorn, gardenia, three-branched maple, boxwood, and purple magnolia.

    6. Collecting seeds. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern and clivia seeds in the greenhouse, they can be sown immediately after collection; mature winter coral seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of heavenly bamboo, firethorn, holly types, and Ardisia crenata can be collected; after treatment, carry out sand stratification for germination, and only after the seeds crack open and show white can they be sown.

    In January, frequently check the seeds stored in sand, including magnolia types, Michelia types, photinia types, and holly types, to see whether the seeds have molded. If mold appears, the seeds must be poured out, rubbed and washed again, and clean fine sand replaced for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, supplement spraying in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked open and shown white or the radicle has already emerged, they must be sown immediately, and covered with plastic film or straw, pine needles, etc. to preserve heat and moisture.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in less cold regions include: Dianthus types, ornamental kale, pot marigold, and daisy; in relatively cold regions, after potting seedlings of Dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy, and primrose, first place them in simple plastic tunnels, and after spring returns and the weather warms, use them for display in street flower beds, green spaces, and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple types, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple types, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow tree, red-flowered spiraea, three-branched maple, Chinese rose, Chinese scholar tree, and dragon-claw pagoda tree. For evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree and French green, except under special circumstances, transplanting should generally be advanced to December or delayed to February; of course, in wind-sheltered places, after transplanting with heavy reduction pruning and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during forestry afforestation and land preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, azalea, crape myrtle, Japanese maple, wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus, and Euonymus pendulus; for evergreen tree stumps, such as heavenly bamboo, cat-spine holly, horned holly, holly, and Japanese oak, heavy reduction pruning must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous tree stumps or evergreen tree stumps, the shallow-burial, high-mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains should be added for freeze protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management; even a slight negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the minimum temperature that various flower species can endure, create a special environment for safe overwintering, either in a greenhouse, in a plastic tunnel, indoors, or buried in open-field soil. In simple plastic tunnels not below 0°C, ornamental plant species that can endure low temperatures around 0°C can be placed, such as asparagus fern, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra, Japanese fatsia, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, rhapis palm, heavenly bamboo, Aucuba, Michelia figo, Cymbidium goeringii, Dendrobium, Ardisia crenata, daphne, sago palm, sweet flag, bamboo palm, and dwarf white-striped bamboo. In double-layer plastic tunnels not below 5°C, ornamental plant species that can endure low temperatures around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine, chloranthus, Michelia alba, parlor palm, pinglan flower, calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, camellia, sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, night-blooming cereus, orchid cactus, large Buddha belly bamboo, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, and lantana. In double-layer plastic tunnels or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can endure low temperatures around 10°C can be placed, such as croton, Caladium, Syngonium, arrowroot, bromeliad types, pepperomia, coleus, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Fittonia, red (green) gem, giant taro, green emperor, silver queen, Aglaia, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Zamioculcas, South American cycad, desert rose, Calathea, poinsettia, Pachystachys, and coral flower. During particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the tunnel, and can be stopped after the temperature turns warmer. On very cold days, strengthen inspection of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 a.m.; never let the fire go out or the electricity fail, otherwise it is very easy to cause frost damage to the plants. For those relatively cold-hardy potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple types, azalea, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Japanese oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood types, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, summer cypress, oriental arborvitae, small bayberry, horned holly, holly, and Chinese fringe tree, they can be buried together with the flower pots in soil; when the temperature is not below -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur; in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or rooms, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, besides maintaining an appropriate air temperature for them, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation and air permeability, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold wind directly hitting the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and plastic tunnels during each cold air southward movement; if broken glass, torn film, etc. are found, block and repair them in time to prevent potted flowers from freezing. When supplying coal, gas, or oil heating to greenhouses, also inspect carefully; do not let leaking gas or smoke enter the greenhouse or plastic tunnel, to prevent smoke damage and other causes of flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop.

To promote peonies to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 additional hours of light each day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum blossom, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, Hall crabapple, Hall crabapple, and winter jasmine can also be placed in plastic tunnels at about 15°C for flower forcing, with appropriately increased light time, to meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, red-spathed narcissus, and freesia already placed in greenhouses in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decoration and display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    In January, for watering management of potted flowers, first and most importantly, pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature roughly consistent with the soil temperature; if the difference between the two is too large, it is extremely easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, even causing leaf drop, root rot, or death. The watering time should best be arranged in the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency, and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms, keeping the potting soil moist is appropriate; when the temperature is low, reduce watering accordingly; when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give leaf surface spraying. For most foliage plants, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but attention should also be paid to giving leaf surface spraying, always keeping the plant leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as Calathea, Syngonium, arrowroot, and croton, when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the minimum temperature the plant can endure, especially control the amount of watering. For those potted flower types that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, poinsettia, cineraria, wintersweet, plum blossom, primrose, hyacinth, kalanchoe, and pot marigold, and fruit ornamental types such as firethorn, bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, kumquat, and winter coral, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water, to facilitate the expansion of flower buds and also increase the bright colors of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in remote areas from lacking water; supplement watering in time for plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, inspect frequently and supplement watering in time; especially for evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off due to overly dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most ground-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapple types, white magnolia, southern magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, manglietia, Michelia types, maple types, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, linden, crape myrtle, Chinese trumpet creeper, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, Buddhist pine, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palms, schima, machilus, purple tree, camptotheca, peony, forsythia, boxwood, grape, coral tree, Chinese rose, hydrangea, red-leaf plum, Japanese plum, flowering almond, tulip tree, deutzia, mock orange, banksia rose, Elaeocarpus, golden silk willow, weeping elm, Japanese cedar, Taiwan cedar, deodar cedar, Chinese scholar tree, dragon-claw pagoda tree, white silk plum, rose of Sharon, lilac, crape myrtle, photinia, heavenly bamboo, purple bamboo, pomegranate, and loquat, if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, and septic tank cleanings around the outer perimeter of the tree root system, to lay a material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, Pachystachys, daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, red-spathed narcissus, Hall crabapple, hyacinth, tulip, colorful bromeliad, clivia, bird of paradise, and Christmas cactus, continue to apply low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution as a top dressing, to facilitate plant growth and bud formation and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, because the plants are dormant in winter, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped types not yet pruned in December; continue pruning flowering shrubs not yet pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, banksia rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor tree, plane tree, Chinese tallow tree, photinia, pomegranate, red-leaf plum, papaya, wintersweet, plum blossom, palms, and grape; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer perimeter of the root system, to meet the needs of spring growth.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned by cutting and supplemented by tying, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, bougainvillea, Fujian tea, Japanese oak, Chinese fringe tree, water willow, Elaeagnus, firethorn, serissa, and Chinese juniper, continue to adjust and prune according to the original composition requirements, the development and change trends of the plant trunk and branches, and personal aesthetic taste, to lay a foundation for spring growth and shaping. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For main trunks or large branches of crabapple types, plum blossom types, flowering almond types, papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry blossom, and red-leaf plum that have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles, etc., they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches burned.

Clear the leaves under Chinese roses, roses, grapes, crape myrtle, etc., gather them and burn them in a centralized manner, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases next year.

For horned wax scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and soft scale appearing on the trunks and branches of pittosporum, plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, plum blossom, wintersweet, and photinia, spray and kill with high concentrations of Supracide, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime-sulfur mixture, etc., which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold easily appearing on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, and kumquat in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches with a damp cloth, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in greenhouses, spray 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, and tea seed cake into water ponds or vats for soaking and fermentation, so as to be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; stack dead grass, branches, and fallen leaves in layers with garden soil, set them on fire and burn them to make burned soil, which can be used as covering soil for sowing and seedling raising in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond manure, tobacco powder, chicken manure, and pigeon manure with garden soil, pile and compost for fermentation, and it can be used as fertilizer for preparing potting soil.

IX. Plowing and Freezing Clods

For nursery land not yet turned and reclaimed in December, seize the time in early January to plow; while plowing the garden plot, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, and farmyard manure, etc.; after overwintering and freezing clods, in early spring draw trenches and make beds for sowing and planting out seedlings.

Because January is particularly cold, plant types suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good flexibility, and easy shaping operations, such as Buddhist pine, Chinese cypress, ginkgo, boxleaf euonymus, downy Japanese cypress, Chinese juniper, serissa, creeping juniper, true juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water willow, Caragana sinica, wintersweet, Euonymus pendulus, banyan, and wisteria. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in simple plastic tunnels, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms; this is beneficial for the healing of parts that may have been damaged during shaping.

For plants that were shaped with coir rope or metal wire 1 to 2 years ago, if the tied areas show obvious sunken constriction marks, the original ties should be untied and the wiring and training should be redone.

    In January, strict management should be strengthened for some shallow-pot tree stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried on indoor sand beds; for tree stump bonsai, prevent the pot soil from freezing, which can damage the plant's fibrous roots and may cause artificially cemented rocks to break apart; also prevent plants grown on small rocks from dying after freezing. They should be placed in a non-freezing location and given regular watering and misting to ensure they can safely overwinter.