What to do when sago palm leaves turn yellow? Add light, reasonable water and fertilizer, repot and change soil, kill pests
The phrase "sago palm blooms" is no stranger to everyone, and it has also made people aware of this plant. It has a beautiful tree shape and emerald-green leaves, and is deeply loved by flower enthusiasts. In daily life, many people grow sago palms, but during care, once there is negligence, it easily causes yellow leaves. So, what should be done when sago palm leaves turn yellow? For this, the editor has summarized 6 causes. Let's take a look together!
1. When sago palm leaves turn yellow, find the cause
As a common potted plant, the cultivation method of the sago palm is not difficult, but there are many beginners, and they often have improper care situations, which easily causes yellow leaves. As for what to do when sago palm leaves turn yellow, the editor has compiled 6 causes of yellowing sago palm leaves and attached solutions. Let's continue reading.
2. Causes of sago palm leaf yellowing and solutions
1. Sudden environmental change
There are many causes of sago palm leaf yellowing, but the first thing everyone should consider is the environmental problem. Because nowadays, most flower enthusiasts' sago palms are bought online, which easily causes a large regional span, and the sago palm cannot adapt for a while, resulting in yellow leaf symptoms.
Solution: Very simple, ask the seller about the sago palm's previous growing environment, then change the environment at home until the sago palm fully adapts. After normal care for a period of time, the sago palm leaves will recover.
2. Insufficient light
The sago palm likes light and needs sufficient light during growth, especially when growing new leaves in spring and autumn, light cannot be lacking. Once it is not given sufficient light, its leaves will turn yellow.
Solution: In spring and autumn, place the potted sago palm on the balcony, or move it outdoors, and let it receive full-sun care until the leaves harden, then move it to a semi-shaded place. During this process, the sago palm leaves will gradually recover.
3. Improper watering
① Insufficient watering: The sago palm likes a humid environment and needs a large amount of water during growth. Once watering is insufficient, the plant's leaves will turn yellow from bottom to top, with old leaves yellowing first. Solution: Water in time to keep the potting soil moist, but do not water too much.
② Overwatering: Although the sago palm needs a large amount of water, do not let the potting soil remain waterlogged for a long time, otherwise the roots are prone to lack oxygen, causing poor plant growth, and then the leaves show yellowing. Solution: Move the sago palm into the sun to let the water evaporate quickly, or directly replace the potting soil so the plant becomes fresh again.
4. Improper fertilizing
① Insufficient fertilizing: The sago palm likes fertilizer, especially when growing new leaves in spring and autumn, and needs sufficient nutrients. At this time, if fertilizing is insufficient, the sago palm's young leaves and tender stems will gradually turn yellow. Solution: Fertilize in time, but do not apply a large amount of concentrated fertilizer at one time, otherwise it will cause root burn.
② Excessive fertilizing: Although the sago palm needs many nutrients, there is also a limit. If fertilizing is too much or too concentrated, it will also cause sago palm leaves to turn yellow. Solution: Control fertilizer use, then water appropriately to dilute the fertilizer, and after a period of time the plant will recover its health.
5. Soil tending alkaline
The sago palm likes slightly acidic sandy soil. If the soil tends alkaline, or long-term watering with mineral water causes the soil to tend alkaline, it will cause sago palm leaves to turn yellow.
Solution: A simple method is to water the potting soil with a 500-fold solution of ferrous sulfate, once a week, for several consecutive waterings, which can alleviate the degree of leaf yellowing; for a more troublesome method, directly replace the potting soil and change to the loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil that the sago palm likes.
6. Pests and diseases
Besides the above points, there is another cause of sago palm yellowing, which is that it has been attacked by pests and diseases. In an environment with poor ventilation and too high temperature, the sago palm will develop pests such as red spiders and scale insects, all of which can cause the plant's leaves to turn yellow.
Solution: Carefully observe the leaves, confirm the specific pest damage, and then spray pesticides in a targeted way for control. As for exactly what pesticide to spray, it is introduced in detail in the pest and disease control of sago palms, so it will not be discussed further here.
Overall, the sago palm is still very easy to grow, but if you are not attentive, it will also have problems. However, after reading the whole article, I believe everyone has a better idea now. If yellow leaf problems occur, just solve them according to the above methods. Regarding sago palm leaves turning yellow, the editor will introduce it here, hoping to bring help to everyone.
Corn plant Dracaena fragrans Corn plant illustrated guide: how to grow corn plant / how to propagate corn plant
Corn plant profileCorn plant Dracaena fragrans
Corn plant cultivation methods and precautions Corn plant introduction
Corn plant is an evergreen tree of the Liliaceae family. It is over 6 m tall; potted plants are 50 cm to 150 cm tall, with branches; leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, 40 cm to 90 cm long, 6 cm to 10 cm wide, curved in an arch shape, bright green and glossy. Flowers are small and inconspicuous, fragrant. It is a famous new-generation indoor foliage plant. The plant shape is graceful and neat, and it is slightly shade-tolerant. It likes high temperatures, and below 13°C the plant goes dormant and stops growing. It likes loose, well-drained soil; use leaf mold or peat soil for potting. Propagated by cuttings; large batches of cuttings are all imported from abroad. Cutting temperature requirements are relatively high. It likes semi-shade sunlight and sufficient fertilizer. Commonly cultivated plants of the same genus include: Dracaena deremensis, lucky bamboo, Dracaena godseffiana, and Dracaena, etc.
Morphological characteristics of corn plant
Corn plant is a tree-like evergreen plant, with a plant height up to 6 m. The stem is thick and mostly branched. The bark is grayish brown or light brown, peeling in flakes. The leaves are broad and large, and growth is robust. The corn plant sold on the market has a stem diameter of about 5-7 cm. It is about 1.2 m or more in length, with the upper and lower ends cut flat, leaves growing at the top and Dracaena plants grafted in the middle, leaves broad and large, with patterns, and the lower root end is radial. Therefore, generally the stem distances are in a long, medium, and short ratio of 100:70:50 cm, planted together in one pot, so the leaves appear relatively full.
The scientific name of corn plant is Dracaena fragrans, with aliases Brazil iron tree, Brazil millennium tree, and golden-edged fragrant dracaena. It is an evergreen tree of the genus Dracaena in the Liliaceae family, over 6 m tall; potted plants are 50 cm to 150 cm tall, with branches; leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, 40 cm to 90 cm long, 6 cm to 10 cm wide, potted plants 50 cm to 150 cm tall, curved in an arch shape, bright green and glossy. Flowers are small and inconspicuous, fragrant, with branches; leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, curved in an arch shape, bright green and glossy, flowers small and inconspicuous, fragrant; slightly shade-tolerant, likes high temperatures, below 13°C it enters dormancy and stops growing, likes loose, well-drained soil, and when potted likes leaf mold or peat soil; commonly propagated by cuttings, cutting temperature requirements are relatively high, likes semi-shade and sufficient fertilizer. Dracaena fragrans has a graceful, neat plant shape and is a world-famous new-generation indoor foliage plant. Common cultivated varieties include: yellow-edged fragrant dracaena (Linderii), with pale yellow leaf margins; spotted fragrant dracaena (Massangeana), with yellow longitudinal stripes in the center of the leaf surface; golden-edged fragrant dracaena (Victoriae), with deep yellow leaf margins with white edges.
Ecological habits of corn plant
It likes an environment with sufficient light, high temperature, and high humidity, and is also shade-tolerant and drought-tolerant. It also grows well in bright scattered light and in the relatively dry environment of northern homes. Corn plant is a tree-like evergreen plant, with a plant height up to 6 m. The stem is thick and mostly branched. The bark is grayish brown or light brown, peeling in flakes. The leaves are broad and large, and growth is robust. The corn plant sold on the market has a stem diameter of about 5-7 cm. It is about 1.2 m or more in length, with the upper and lower ends cut flat, leaves growing at the top and Dracaena plants grafted in the middle, leaves broad and large, with patterns, and the lower root end is radial. Therefore, generally the stem distances are in a long, medium, and short ratio of 100:70:50 cm, planted together in one pot, so the leaves appear relatively full. Corn plant likes a high-temperature and humid climate. It has strong adaptability to light and can grow with slight shading or in sunlight, but in spring, autumn, and winter it should receive more sunlight, while in summer it should be shaded or placed indoors in a well-ventilated place for cultivation. Corn plant has strong vitality and needs only sunlight, air, and very little water, and can live well relying on its own potential energy. If the color of the leaf patterns becomes lighter during cultivation, this is often due to the placement location being too shady or excessive nitrogen fertilizer application. For potting, use fertile soil rich in humus and well-drained, which can be made by mixing leaf mold and river sand. Corn plant is drought-tolerant but not waterlogging-tolerant. During the growing season, it can be watered thoroughly. Corn plant is afraid of cold and freezing, so in winter it should be placed indoors in a sunny place, and the temperature should be maintained at 5°C-10°C. Corn plant is mostly used as an indoor ornamental plant for homes or offices, and placing it beside a sofa is very stylish. The leaf base, stems, and branches of corn plant can be used to extract traditional Chinese medicine, which has a hemostatic effect. That is, what many people in China mistakenly call corn plant. It likes high temperature, high humidity, and sufficient sunlight, and is also drought-tolerant, and avoids alkaline soil. The overwintering temperature cannot be lower than 5°C. Propagation can be done by stem cuttings or leaf cuttings. As exchanges between China and Brazil increase day by day, a curious ornamental wood from Brazil - Brazil iron column - has also traveled across the ocean from South America to settle in China after many twists and turns. Perhaps because it comes from Brazil, many people in China mistakenly call it "corn plant." In fact, its real name is "water wood," and it is an evergreen tree or shrub of the genus Dracaena in the Agavaceae family, also known as golden-hearted fragrant dracaena, and is different from Brazil wood, the national tree of Brazil. As an indoor potted foliage plant, Brazil iron column has the custom in the Americas and Africa of giving friends stem sections of Brazil iron column to express good blessings. But Brazil wood, as Brazil's national tree, is a world-famous precious timber.
Uses and purposes of corn plant
Corn plant is a rather popular large indoor potted flowering plant, especially placed in relatively spacious living rooms, studies, and sitting rooms, with an elegant, simple style and a southern tropical flavor. It is a world-famous new-generation indoor foliage plant with a graceful, neat plant shape.
Cultivation techniques of corn plant Propagation
Propagation can use cuttings or hydroponics, with May-August being the most suitable. For Brazil iron column after several years of planting, if the plant is too large or the lower leaves of the stem have fallen off, the ornamental value decreases. The stem can be cut about 10 cm above the pot surface, and then the stem can be cut into 5-10 cm sections as cuttings. A wooden bucket or large flower pot can be filled with coarse sand or vermiculite to make a simple cutting bed. Insert 1/3-1/2 of the cutting vertically into the sand; or lay the cutting entirely in coarse sand in a semi-lying way, exposing about 1-2 cm above the sand surface. The lower 1/3 or so of the cutting can also be soaked in water. Spray water frequently to maintain relatively high humidity in the cutting bed; a temperature of 21-24°C is conducive to rooting and sprouting of cuttings. Tips with leaves root faster and can be potted after 3-4 weeks; stem sections root somewhat slower, sometimes requiring 2-3 months. The mother plant after the stem is cut can have several latent buds below the cut sprout into new branches. When the buds grow more than 15 cm above, cut them off for cuttings, and they can root and be potted in 2-3 weeks. Leaf cuttings are made by taking a complete leaf and inserting it into a sterilized substrate. With the same management, it can also root in about two months. After transplanting, about 40 days later, new buds will sprout at the junction of root and leaf, and after growing they become independent plants.Management
As long as conditions such as temperature are suitable, corn plant can grow all year round. In high summer temperatures, appropriate shading is needed, and in winter the room temperature must not be lower than 5°C. But it is best to let it go dormant in winter; the dormancy temperature is 13°C. If the temperature is too low, yellow-brown spots will appear at the leaf tips and margins. Indoor placement of corn plant should be in a place with sufficient light. If the light is too weak, the patterns on the leaves will turn green, the base leaves will yellow, and it will lose ornamental value. During cultivation, keep the water clean, water 1-2 times a week, and do not use too much water, to prevent the trunk from rotting. In high summer temperatures, spray misting can be used to increase air humidity, and water can be sprayed on the leaves to keep them moist. Brazil iron column likes high temperature, high humidity, and sufficient sunlight, and too much shade will cause the leaf color to fade. In summer it requires semi-shade, and avoids alkaline soil. For potting soil, leaf mold or peat soil should be used, with about 1/4 river sand or perlite and a small amount of decomposed organic fertilizer added. Loose soil, good drainage, and rich organic matter are beneficial to its growth. During the growing period, apply a dilute fertilizer solution mainly of phosphorus and potassium once every half month to prevent excessive growth and the leaf colors turning back to green. Repot and change soil every early spring, and apply sufficient base fertilizer. Brazil iron column has strong adaptability and strong drought resistance, and will not die of dryness if not watered for several days. But to grow well, it must have a sufficient water supply. Especially in the vigorous growing summer, it cannot lack water. Place the flower pot in a sunny indoor area. If the temperature is suitable and water and fertilizer are appropriate, it can grow all year round. Only when the temperature is below 13°C does the plant go dormant and stop growing; at this time, reduce watering, water only when wet-dry cycles are seen, and stop topdressing. Low temperature is the main cause of leaf drop in winter. Irregular watering, or insufficient nutrient supply, plus dry indoor air, or excessive fertilizing, are all physiological diseases that cause leaf tip scorch. When scorched leaf phenomena appear, handle them according to the situation. If it is insufficient water and fertilizer supply, spray water on it 2-3 times a day, spray once a week with a 0.1% ammonium sulfate or potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, and sometimes move it outdoors to receive morning sun. When the weather warms up, switch to a larger pot, replace with new soil, and replant, and afterward it can grow more white roots and continue vigorous growth. If it is excessive fertilizing, immediately change to new soil, rinse the roots with water close to the air temperature, and then replant. Brazil iron column tolerates pruning. As long as the top or upper stems are cut off, latent buds below the cut will grow new branches and leaves, and 1-5 buds can sprout at the same time, then grow into individual plants.Temperature and light
The suitable growth temperature for corn plant is 20°C to 28°C, the dormancy temperature is 13°C, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C. If the temperature is too low, yellow-brown spots will appear at the leaf tips and margins, and in severe cases the tender branches or the whole plant will be frozen. Therefore, in the northern winter it should be moved into a greenhouse for care. For indoor placement, it should be placed in a spot with light, and the room temperature should be kept above 6°C to 8°C. When the temperature is low at night, a plastic bag can be put over it to keep it warm; when the sun comes out during the day and the room temperature rises, the plastic bag should be removed in time to allow heat dissipation and cooling, preventing it from being stifled. If there is indoor heating equipment, place the pot farther away to prevent the branches and leaves from being dried out or baked. Also pay attention to indoor air flow, but when opening doors and windows, do not let cold wind blow directly on the branches and leaves, and do not casually move it outdoors to bask in the sun, to prevent freezing damage.Water and humidity
Corn plant does not need much water, but has relatively high humidity requirements. After potting, water thoroughly to settle the roots, and place it in a brighter indoor area or in a shade shed for care. The potting soil should remain moist, and water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface to increase the air humidity of the surrounding environment, but the potting soil should not be waterlogged, so as to avoid root rot caused by poor ventilation and air permeability. For northern corn plant during the growing period in spring, summer, and autumn, on sunny days water once every 2 to 3 days, and spraying water on the leaf surface 1 to 2 times a day is appropriate. After late autumn, watering should be controlled, and keeping the potting soil slightly moist is enough. In winter, watering should be controlled, and the potting soil should be kept half dry and half wet; if watered too much, it will cause root rot and leaf scorch.Soil and fertilizer
Corn plant is suitable for fertile river sand loam that is loose, well-drained, and rich in humus. For potting corn plant, use garden soil, leaf mold, peat soil, and river sand in a 3:2:2:3 ratio, or mix 2/3 dried and finely crushed fertile pond mud with 1/3 coarse river sand to make the culture soil. If using thick and large stems for planting, the culture soil can be made by mixing equal amounts of vermiculite, peat soil or garden soil, and river sand. The potted corn plants on the market are mostly in fine sand soil, which is used by producers to let the plants fully develop roots, and long-term use will be unfavorable to plant growth. To make the plant thrive, peat soil must be added in stages. In addition, corn plant should be repotted once a year. When repotting, replace 1/3 of the old soil, then add new mud and sand soil, and trim the leaves, stems, and old, scorched leaves on the lower part of the stem. During growth, corn plant consumes some of its own nutrients. If fertilizer is not applied in time at this time, it will cause insufficient stamina and gradual degeneration. During the growing period, first bury organic fertilizer at the base or edges, then apply liquid fertilizer once every 15 to 20 days, or compound fertilizer 1 to 2 times, to ensure lush growth of branches and leaves. Fertilizing should use dilute fertilizer, and concentrated fertilizer must be avoided. The fertilizing period is from May to October each year. Stop fertilizing in winter and move it indoors for overwintering. For patterned varieties, when fertilizing, pay attention to reducing the proportion of nitrogen fertilizer, so as to avoid excessive growth of leaves and causing the patterns to become dull or even disappear.
Pruning methodFirst look at the tree vigor to determine whether pruning is needed and whether there is a deviation in shape. Then determine which branch section you need to prune, and you can use tools to make a mark to make pruning easier. After doing so, confirm and look again to see whether there is any mark you are not satisfied with and whether it needs modification. Then start. Use pruning shears or other knives, and they should be sharp, so that pruning is convenient and the wound is relatively neat. Remember to disinfect the knife with alcohol first. For pruning corn plant, generally an entire branch is cut off from the root node. When cutting, pay attention to cutting a large half from top to bottom in sequence, then cut from bottom to top, and remember to keep the cut parallel and close to the main trunk. Remove some large leaves from the cut branch, and it can be used for cuttings to form a new plant.Winter care precautionsImproper winter care often causes the following problems: leaves wilting and drooping, dull and listless leaf surfaces, and no improvement after watering. These problems are mostly caused by root rot due to too much or too little watering. At this time, remove the rotten roots. If the bottom wooden stump is rotten, it can be sawed off, soaked in 2‰ potassium permanganate water for 10-30 minutes, and buried in a substrate soil with good drainage such as sand or ash residue added. If the center of the leaf bud turns black and gradually rots outward, it is caused by too low temperature, mostly due to freezing damage. If the bark of the wooden stump is not rotten, it can still be moved to a high-temperature place to encourage new buds and remove old buds for renewal. Leaf edge scorch or dry tips are sometimes caused by dry air, and can be improved by frequently spraying water on the leaf surface. Some are caused by relatively low temperature and being in a slow dormant state. The most suitable temperature should be 20-25°C (below 13°C growth slows, and below 5°C freezing damage occurs). The yellow patterns on the leaves becoming lighter and gradually fading is caused by indoor light being too dim, and it can turn back after appropriate exposure to sunlight.
Disease control of corn plant How to nurse it back when it wilts
During the growing period, corn plant should appropriately receive foliar topdressing, spraying leaves with 100-fold diluted nutrient solution, once every half month. After several years of cultivation, when the corn plant is too tall or the lower leaves of the stem have fallen off and the plant shape is poor, pruning should be carried out. Repot or change soil every early spring. For potted corn plant, if the environment is unsuitable, it will be harmed by red spiders, thrips, scale insects, etc. In addition, excessive ventilation, drought, irregular watering, and excessive fertilizing can all cause leaf tip scorch. Controlling watering in winter is key for corn plant; generally water as little as possible depending on indoor temperature. Too much water will cause root rot, and winter is not suitable for cuttings, so even if discovered it is hard to save. So I advise flower enthusiasts not to water too diligently in winter. You can slightly pry open the bark of corn plant to check the necrotic part; normal tree flesh is light green and has moisture. When the tree flesh is found to be dark brown, the trunk can be cut off and the section with green tree flesh kept for cuttings. If it is all dark brown, unfortunately there is no saving it! Because only trunks with light green tree flesh can survive sand cuttings and water cuttings. Water cuttings should be done when the weather is not too hot, around 25°C, changing the water once every 3-5 days. In summer or when the temperature is high, change the water once a day. Some charcoal pieces can be put in the water to prevent rot. Sand cuttings are more convenient: let the cut trunk dry a little, seal both ends with wax, and insert one third into the sand. Water thoroughly and place in a semi-shaded place. Also, do not spray water on the leaves in winter, as it easily causes heart rot. Note: slightly pry open the bark to check, do not peel off all the bark.
Causes of scorch and yellowing
1. Waterlogging: too much watering, with standing water in the tray, will cause the plant roots to lack oxygen and rot, thus causing the leaves to scorch and yellow. The solution is corn plant
Remove the tray, water as little as possible, and it is best to change the soil once. 2. Pests: the symptoms you describe may be red spiders or thrips (it cannot be scale insects), so use Mite-Clear 1:1200 solution (cypermethrin is also okay), 2-3 times a week (in winter it must be sprayed at noon), for 2-3 consecutive weeks. 3. Temperature: does your home have heating? Too much heating or no heating will affect the growth of tropical plants such as corn plant (I guess your situation is very likely this one). If the heating is too strong, the indoor temperature and evaporation are correspondingly higher, so you should increase the number of times you spray water on the leaf surface each day to maintain the plant's moisture. If the heating is not on, the indoor temperature is lower (like in our Chongqing, there is no need to turn on heating in winter), and the plant will rot and yellow when frozen. The solution is to wrap the entire corn plant with film, or cover it with a large plastic bag, then move it indoors to a warmer, wind-sheltered place (even the bathroom is okay, but pay attention to maintaining moisture), and move it out again in March of the next year. Finally, no matter which of the above symptoms your corn plant has, you must prune the yellow leaves. Remember to cut the incision into a | or / shape to reduce the wound area, and spray 1:1000 carbendazim solution to prevent infection.Pest controlCorn plant sometimes shows phenomena such as scorched leaf margins and scorched leaf tips, which are mostly physiological diseases caused by drought, too low temperature, improper watering and fertilizing, etc. The control method is: improve cultivation management, control temperature and humidity, fertilize reasonably, and provide appropriate ventilation. Corn plant should often keep the leaf surface clean, and once pests occur, remove the pest bodies in time. The sugarcane borer moth is relatively harmful to corn plant. The affected corn plant can be moved to a cool outdoor place and sprayed with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000-fold solution or 90% trichlorfon 800-fold solution, once a week, for 3 consecutive times. Common leaf spot and anthracnose damage can be sprayed with 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder 1000-fold solution. Pests include scale insects and aphids, which can be killed by spraying with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000-fold solution.
Potted cultivation and management of corn plant
The soil in the flower pot for planting corn plant should remain moist, but must not be waterlogged, otherwise the roots will rot. Due to vigorous growth and high water consumption, water shortage is likely to occur, so attention should be paid to timely watering. In normal weather, water thoroughly once a day, and sprinkle water on the space or ground 2 to 3 times. The air humidity requirement is 80%, and high temperature and high humidity help it grow rapidly. Too much or too little watering will both cause root rot, leaves wilting and drooping, and dull leaf surfaces. At this time, remove the rotten roots. If the bottom wooden stump is rotten, it can be sawed off, soaked in 0.2% potassium permanganate water for 10 minutes to 30 minutes, and buried in a well-drained substrate soil. Leaf edge scorch or drying is caused by dry air, and can be improved by frequently spraying water on the leaf surface. The potting soil should be soil with certain water and fertilizer retention, aeration, and looseness. Generally, a 6:4 mix of coconut coir and river sand is best, or a 1:1 mix of peat soil and river sand is relatively ideal. Repot once every two years to renew the root system and enhance vitality. Because it is a foliage plant, the proportion of nitrogen fertilizer should be slightly higher. Usually apply a full-effect compound fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium once a month, and at the same time apply foliar topdressing of potassium dihydrogen phosphate + urea 0.2% to 0.3% aqueous solution 2 to 3 times. For varieties with golden or silver variegation, appropriately apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer and less nitrogen fertilizer; too much nitrogen fertilizer will cause excessive growth of the plant and the leaf colors turning back to green, reducing ornamental value. Its suitable growth temperature is 20°C to 25°C. When the indoor temperature is not lower than 18°C, corn plant can grow; if the temperature is below 13°C, it enters dormancy. If the temperature is too low, because the roots have difficulty absorbing water, the water evaporated from the leaves cannot be replenished in time, which easily causes yellow-brown spots at the leaf margins and reduces its ornamental value. In winter, the room temperature should be maintained between 6°C and 10°C at minimum. If the indoor temperature is too low and the air is dry, the lower leaves will yellow and then scorch at the edges, and some leaves may even die. If the center of the leaf bud turns black and gradually rots outward, it is caused by too low temperature, mostly due to freezing damage. If the bark of the wooden stump is not rotten, it can still be moved to a high-temperature place to encourage new buds and remove old buds for renewal. Its main pests and diseases are stem-boring pests. Among them, the sugarcane borer moth and longhorn beetle pests have larvae that bore up and down within the cortex of the wooden stem. In mild cases, insect tunnels appear and a small amount of frass is discharged; in severe cases, the fleshy part inside the epidermis is completely eaten, finally causing the branches and leaves to gradually wilt and scorch and yellow, losing the ornamental effect of a foliage plant. Move the corn plant to a cool outdoor place and spray or pour with 40% omethoate 1000-fold solution, once a week, for 3 consecutive times. Mix insecticide into a 1:200 poisonous soil and evenly sprinkle it on the surface of the potting soil to also kill pests. For some diseases such as anthracnose that occasionally appear on the leaves, usually spraying with 75% wettable powder chlorothalonil or 85% thiophanate 800-fold solution can effectively prevent and control them.
How corn plant overwinters
There are roughly two situations for corn plant overwintering indoors. One is that the temperature is suitable and the light is sufficient, and the corn plant is in a normal growth state. At this time, due to vigorous growth and high water consumption, water shortage is likely to occur, so attention should be paid to timely watering, generally once every 2-3 days. The second is that the temperature is low and the light is weak, and the corn plant is in a slow-growth state. At this time, water consumption is low, and waterlogging is likely to occur, so watering should be appropriately reduced. On the one hand, this can improve the cold resistance of corn plant, and on the other hand it can also enhance soil permeability and ensure normal root respiration. Improper winter care often causes the following problems: leaves wilting and drooping, dull and listless leaf surfaces, and no improvement after watering. These problems are mostly caused by root rot due to too much or too little watering. At this time, remove the rotten roots. If the bottom wooden stump is rotten, it can be sawed off, soaked in 2‰ potassium permanganate water for 10-30 minutes, and buried in a substrate soil with good drainage such as sand or ash residue added. If the center of the leaf bud turns black and gradually rots outward, it is caused by too low temperature, mostly due to freezing damage. If the bark of the wooden stump is not rotten, it can still be moved to a high-temperature place to encourage new buds and remove old buds for renewal. Leaf edge scorch or dry tips are sometimes caused by dry air, and can be improved by frequently spraying water on the leaf surface. Some are caused by relatively low temperature and being in a slow dormant state. The most suitable temperature should be 20-25°C (below 13°C growth slows, and below 5°C freezing damage occurs). The yellow patterns on the leaves becoming lighter and gradually fading is caused by indoor light being too dim, and it can turn back after appropriate exposure to sunlight.
Biological characteristics of corn plant Dracaena fragrans originates from the Canary Islands in western Africa. It likes high temperature, high humidity, and a sunny environment. The suitable growth temperature for Dracaena fragrans is 18-24°C, 24-30°C from March to September, and 13-18°C from September to March of the following year. In winter, when the temperature is below 13°C it enters dormancy, and below 5°C the plant suffers freezing damage. Among them, Boulin lucky bamboo can tolerate a low temperature of 2°C. Dracaena fragrans likes moisture and fears waterlogging. During the vigorous leaf growth period, keep the potting soil moist, with air humidity at 70%-80%, and frequently spray water on the leaf surface, but the potting soil must not be waterlogged. During the winter dormancy period, watering should be controlled, otherwise leaf tip scorch is likely to occur. Dracaena fragrans has relatively strong adaptability to light. Under sufficient sunlight or semi-shade, stems and leaves can grow and develop normally, but variegated-leaf types kept under low light for a long time will have lighter colors or lose them. The cultivation soil should be fertile, loose, and well-drained sandy loam, and for potting, a mixed soil of leaf mold, culture soil, and coarse sand is best. Variety classification of corn plant
There is yellow-edged fragrant dracaena (Linderii), with pale yellow leaf margins; spotted fragrant dracaena (Massangeana), with yellow longitudinal stripes in the center of the leaf surface; golden-edged fragrant dracaena (Victoriae), with deep yellow leaf margins with white edges. Ornamental species of the same genus include tricolor dracaena (D. concinna cv. Tricolor), with green leaves and yellow-white and red longitudinal stripes. Rainbow dracaena (D. concinna cv. Rainbow), with a pale yellow midrib, deep red margins, and a light brown area between the midrib and margins. Dracaena deremensis, among which the cultivar Bausei has dark green leaves with a broad milky white band in the center; Janet Craig has golden yellow leaves; Roehrsii has green-white leaf surfaces with golden yellow stripes; Roehrs Gold has creamy yellow leaf margins and a gray-green center; silver-striped dracaena (Warneckei) has long sword-shaped leaves, twisted tips, dark green margins, a pale green midrib, and white markings. Dracaena godseffiana has dark green leaves with yellow and milky white spots. Its cultivars Florida Beauty has densely distributed creamy yellow spots on the leaf surface; Friedman has dark green leaves with a white spotted band in the center and densely distributed milky white spots on the margins. Dracaena goldieana has ovate leaves with transverse light green and gray-white bands. The cultivar Celes of lucky bamboo (D. sanderiana) has leaves 1-2 cm wide, dark green, with white edges; silver-edged lucky bamboo (Margaret Berkery) has white spotted bands at the leaf margins; golden-edged lucky bamboo (Virescens) has yellow spotted bands at the leaf margins; Boringuesis has dark green leaf surfaces with fine yellow-green stripes.
Purchasing standards for corn plant
When buying corn plant on the market, first check whether the branches and stems have wounds or damage, and at the same time gently press the bark with your hand; bark eroded by pests and diseases will be relatively soft. Then gently shake the branches and stems. If the branches and stems are not very loose, it indicates that considerable roots have grown out. Only such corn plant is more conducive to survival; otherwise, no matter how beautiful the leaves look, it is in a state of false survival. Finally, check whether the leaves are flat and extended. The leaf color of corn plant should be clear and bright, the leaf buds should basically not be loose, and the leaf center should not be rotten.
Distribution area of corn plant
Native to western Africa. It is also distributed in Yunnan, Guangxi, and Hainan in China, as well as Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Indonesia, and the Americas.
Flower language of corn plant
Good luck and happiness, glory and wealth!
Corn plant pictures
What flowers bloom in October What flowers and plants are suitable for planting in October
We all know that different flowers have different growth cycles and different viewing times, so different months have different flowers blooming. So what flowers bloom in October?
What flowers bloom in October
Osmanthus
Blooms from September to early October. Osmanthus is one of China's ten traditional famous flowers, an excellent garden tree species that combines greening, beautification, and fragrance, and has both ornamental and practical uses. Osmanthus can be pure enough to remove dust, and its strong fragrance can spread far, and it can be called unsurpassed. Especially in mid-autumn, when clusters of osmanthus are in full bloom, on a quiet night with a full moon, drinking wine and enjoying osmanthus, with its aged fragrance striking the nose, makes one feel refreshed. In ancient Chinese poems praising flowers, the number of works praising osmanthus is also considerable. Since ancient times, it has been deeply loved by Chinese people and regarded as a traditional famous flower. Osmanthus flowers grow in the leaf axils, with a gamopetalous corolla with four lobes, small in shape. There are many horticultural varieties, with the most representative being golden osmanthus, silver osmanthus, reddish osmanthus, and monthly osmanthus, etc.
Chrysanthemum
Blooms from September to November. Chrysanthemum is the third of China's ten famous flowers, one of the four gentlemen among flowers (plum, orchid, bamboo, chrysanthemum), and also one of the world's four major cut flowers (chrysanthemum, rose, carnation, gladiolus), with output ranking first. Chrysanthemum is fully deserving of being the master of autumn. Whether it is the many artificially cultivated varieties such as specimen chrysanthemum, desk chrysanthemum, cliff chrysanthemum, dahlia chrysanthemum, small dahlia chrysanthemum, and Japanese small chrysanthemum, or wild chrysanthemums such as sweet wild chrysanthemum, Galinsoga parviflora, Saussurea, aster, small red chrysanthemum, and Aster, they all bloom competitively in autumn, making people dazzled and full of praise.
Red spider lily
Blooms from September to October. The Japanese alias of the red spider lily is "Manjusaka," which comes from<<法华经>> is a transliteration of the Sanskrit "Mahamanjusaka" in the text. The original meaning is a flower in heaven, a large red flower, and it is one of the four flowers of auspicious signs sent down from heaven (Manjusaka, Mahamanjusaka, Mandarava, and Mahamandarava). The scriptures say that those who see this flower have their evil removed.
By red spider lily we usually mean red-flowered Lycoris radiata. The common white-flowered Lycoris and yellow-flowered Lycoris cannot be regarded as true "red spider lilies"; they are close relatives of the red spider lily, and another famous ornamental flower is called "sudden smile," also known as iron-colored arrow. Sudden smile and red spider lily are very similar, but their flowering periods differ, and their meanings also differ. The flower language of sudden smile is: happiness, joy, and surprise.
Morning glory
Blooms from June to October. Under the warm autumn sun, morning glories bloom unrestrainedly amid the rustling sound of wind blowing fallen leaves. There are many kinds of morning glories with varied flower colors. Besides being ornamental, the seeds are also a commonly used traditional Chinese medicinal material, called Erchou. The most common in Beijing are round-leaf morning glory (Pharbitis purpurea) and ivy-leaf morning glory (Pharbitis hederacea), which are among the most common climbing ornamental flowers in parks and courtyards in autumn.
Epiphyllum
Blooms from June to October. Epiphyllum originates from South Africa, Mexico, and other places, and belongs to the epiphytic cactus family. Epiphyllum can increase the indoor negative ion content. Although its flowering period is very short, when it blooms it is beautiful and noble, with a rich fragrance spreading all around.
Epiphyllum enjoys the reputation of "beauty under the moon." After the flower gradually opens, it slowly withers after 1-2 hours, and the whole process is only about 4 hours. Hence the saying "a fleeting epiphyllum appearance." It is widely cultivated in various regions of the world; it is commonly cultivated in all provinces and regions of China.
Verbena
Blooms from May to November. Verbena is a perennial herbaceous plant of the Verbenaceae family, Verbena genus, with a suitable growth temperature of 5-25°C. Native to South America. The flowering part is corymb-shaped, and the flower colors include white, red, blue, snow blue, pink, etc. It is very robust and can be used as flowerbed and flower border material, and can also be used as potted flowers or planted in large areas in suitable places for potted viewing or arranged in flower terraces, garden gaps, and tree beds.
Cotton rose
Blooms from August to November. The cotton rose flower is a shrub or small tree native to the Yellow River basin and East China and South China regions of China. Its flowers may be white, pink, or red, as bright as a lotus emerging from water, and as gorgeous as a lotus unfolding its petals. Because it grows on land and is a woody plant, it is also called "cotton rose." The flowers of the cotton rose change three times in one day, so it is also called "three-change flower." Its flowers begin to bloom in late autumn, and despite frost and dew they remain full of graceful beauty, occupying all the charm of deep autumn, so it is also called "frost-rejecting flower."
Hibiscus
Blooms from July to October. In the south it is mostly used as flower hedges and green hedges; in the north it is used as courtyard decoration and indoor potted plants. Aliases include white hibiscus flower, palm tree flower, large bowl flower, hedge flower, Qingming hedge, white rice flower, chicken flower, lard flower, and morning-open evening-fall flower. Hibiscus flowers are brightly colored and are an excellent plant for free-growing flower hedges. They are suitable for planting along roadsides, in parks, courtyards, and other places, and can be planted singly, in rows, or in groups. Hibiscus flowers can be used as medicine and can also be eaten. Hibiscus is the national flower of South Korea, also known as infinite flower, and in North America it has the reputation of "desert rose." Some hibiscus flowers are light purple, and some are dark purple. They grow quickly and have lush branches and leaves. Malaysia's national flower is also hibiscus (also known as big red flower) Bunga Raya.
Globe amaranth
Blooms from August to November. Globe amaranth aliases: ten-thousand-year red, thousand-day white, spherical cockscomb, globe amaranth, belonging to the Amaranthaceae family, Gomphrena genus. Globe amaranth likes sunlight, tolerates dry heat, and is robust by nature. It is native to tropical America and is a common flower in tropical and subtropical regions. For ornamental use, its capitulum remains unchanged for a long time. Besides being used for flowerbeds and bonsai, it can also be used for decorations such as wreaths and flower baskets. It is distributed in most areas of China and not only has great medicinal value, but is also a raw material for flower tea suitable for clearing heat, reducing internal heat, and health preservation. In ancient times, people regarded globe amaranth as a symbol of sincere friendship, and many much-told stories spread because of this.
What flowers are suitable for planting in October
Flowers suitable for courtyard display
In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C.
There are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display in October. Among the woody ornamental plants are: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, Japanese umbrella pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, spruce species, Buddhist pine, Japanese plum yew, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Dutch iron, Chinese glory bower, cinnamon, osmanthus, cotton rose, rubber tree, Schefflera octophylla, variegated fig, Chinese hibiscus, golden larch, croton, corn plant, money tree, palm grass, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Japanese fatsia, spotted aucuba, thick-leaved fig, fish-tail palm, areca palm, king coconut, Cordyline fruticosa, beautiful phoenix palm, fiddle-leaf fig, desert rose, South American cycad, Garcinia subelliptica, giant Buddha-belly bamboo, red maple, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, white orchid, Pandanus tectorius, orange jasmine, nandina, etc.
Herbaceous flowers include: scarlet sage, large-flowered canna, dahlia, aster, chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, bamboo-joint begonia, dragon's mouth flower, French marigold, African marigold, five-color pepper, cockscomb, calendula, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dwarf petunia, Guinea impatiens, etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China, and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flowers planted in the north.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing Woody flowering plants that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summer calycanthus, rich seed, soapberry, bitter tea, Buddhist pine, Japanese plum yew, French holly, Elaeocarpus, beautiful phoenix palm, Chinese yew, fan palm, privet, small-leaf privet, camphor, Weigela florida, palm, pond cypress, etc. Among them, when sowing horse chestnut, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing summer calycanthus, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except for summer calycanthus and Weigela florida seeds, which can be dry-stored until sowing the next spring, the other types can all have their seeds cleaned and then stored in wet sand to promote germination until the next spring when the seeds crack and show white, then sown. Note that before storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean. The moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released. The ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy.
Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: hollyhock, mallow, corn poppy, calendula, snapdragon, Dianthus species, pansy, Boston ivy, blackberry lily, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, California poppy, daisy, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium, gloxinia, dwarf petunia, cineraria, four-season primrose, African daisy, and calceolaria can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.
2. Cuttings are feasible. Woody flowering plants that can be propagated by cuttings include: redback cuphea (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), dwarf umbrella tree (Schefflera arboricola), night-blooming jasmine (Telosma cordata), lantana (Lantana camara), firethorn (Pyracantha), mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), bleeding glory-bower (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), ti plant (Cordyline fruticosa), banana shrub (Michelia figo), Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus (Chloranthus spicatus), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea'), golden-leaf privet (Ligustrum sinense 'Variegatum'), four-season osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), weigela (Weigela florida), snowbush (Deutzia scabra), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea japonica), bridal wreath spiraea (Spiraea prunifolia), St. John's wort (Hypericum), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea'), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), Japanese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), oleander (Nerium oleander), fig (Ficus carica), and flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), etc. The cutting medium can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice-hull ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cutting. In addition, for some southern flowering plants propagated by cuttings, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention must be paid to cold protection.
Flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), marigold (Tagetes erecta), wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens-cultorum), cane begonia (Begonia maculata), inch plant (Tradescantia zebrina), golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum), clearweed (Pilea), coral flower (Pachystachys lutea), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), golden vein shrimp plant (Justicia aurea), and cold chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum), etc.
Succulent flowering plants that can be propagated by cuttings include: jade plant (Crassula ovata), aeonium (Aeonium), epiphyllum (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum), and elephant bush (Portulacaria afra), etc.
Tips for planting flowers in October
1. Light should be sufficient
Some light-loving woody flowering plants that bloom in summer, such as jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), and orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata), should still be placed in a sunny place, so that the plants can fully receive light, allowing the leaves to better carry out photosynthesis, supplying nutrients in time, promoting the maturation of current-year branches, enabling them to overwinter safely, and ensuring they remain full of flowers and lush leaves the following year. Potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as azalea (Rhododendron), clivia (Clivia miniata), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), should also be placed in a sunny spot to receive full sun, otherwise flowering will be delayed or they may not bloom at all. Generally, foliage plants are more shade-tolerant and can be given some light appropriately, but direct strong midday light should be avoided.
2. Water and fertilizer should be appropriate
In early autumn, especially in early to mid-September, the temperature is still relatively high and plant transpiration is large, so most flowers should be watered thoroughly once every 1 to 2 days. From mid-to-late September, the amount of watering should be controlled and fertilizing stopped, to avoid root rot from too much water and leggy branches and leaves from too much fertilizer, which would affect overwintering. Some flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), clivia (Clivia miniata), Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), and azalea (Rhododendron), have already passed their dormancy period and are beginning to enter their peak growing season, so from autumn until they bloom at the Spring Festival, fertilizer and water should be applied continuously, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be appropriately increased to promote flower bud formation and budding and blooming.
3. Pruning should be reasonable
Except for flowers that bloom in early spring, most flowers such as jasmine (Jasminum sambac), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), and pomegranate (Punica granatum) can be pruned and shaped in autumn, with branch pruning carried out in late autumn and early winter. This can reduce nutrient consumption in winter, promote the health of potted flowers, and ensure more blooms the following year. When pruning, remove diseased branches, dead branches, overly dense branches, and leggy branches, laying a good foundation for potted flowers to overwinter.
4. Pest and disease control should be thorough
Autumn is still a season with a high incidence of pests and diseases, and plants are easily harmed by pests such as scale insects, red spiders, aphids, and whiteflies. Diseases include leaf spot and rot of branches and trunks, etc. Before potted flowers are brought indoors, these pests and diseases must be thoroughly treated, and they must never be allowed indoors to cause harm. For those with no pests or diseases found, medication can be sprayed for prevention.
5. Propagation should be timely
After the Start of Autumn, the temperature drops. Some biennial cultivated flower species, such as pansy (Viola tricolor var. hortensis), dianthus (Dianthus), cineraria (Pericallis hybrida), and hollyhock (Alcea rosea), are at the perfect time for sowing. Sowing can be done from September to October; after sowing, pay attention to spraying water and keeping the soil moist. There are also some woody flowering plants suitable for autumn cuttings, such as fuchsia (Fuchsia), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), geranium (Pelargonium), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), and winter daphne (Daphne odora 'Aureomarginata'), etc.; in autumn, the survival rate of cuttings is relatively high. For perennial flowers that are densely grown and need division, such as tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa) and herbaceous peony (Paeonia lactiflora), division and propagation should be carried out in time. For bulbous flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), tulip (Tulipa), and amaryllis (Hippeastrum), potting should be done promptly.
6. Bringing indoors should be timely
The timing for bringing potted flowers indoors differs according to the plant. Warm-loving flowering plants such as Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), begonia (Begonia), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), coleus (Coleus), and Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa) should be moved indoors when the temperature is 10°C; spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), dwarf umbrella tree (Schefflera arboricola), and rubber tree (Ficus elastica) should also be moved indoors when the temperature drops to 5°C. The vast majority of flowers should preferably be brought indoors before Frost's Descent. When potted flowers are indoors, attention should be paid to ventilation; when the midday temperature is relatively high, doors and windows can be opened for ventilation and heat dissipation.