How to prune Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), pruning methods for Chinese evergreen / cut branches can be used for cuttings
Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema) is a beautiful foliage plant. Its leaves are green all year round, and placing it indoors has a very good effect on beautifying the home. However, as the care time increases, for the sake of appearance, it is inevitably necessary to properly prune the Chinese evergreen.
Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema) is a beautiful foliage plant. Its leaves are green all year round, and placing it indoors has a very good effect on beautifying the home. However, as the care time increases, for the sake of appearance, it is inevitably necessary to properly prune the Chinese evergreen. So how do you prune Chinese evergreen? Below are the pruning methods for Chinese evergreen summarized by the editor. Let's take a look together!
I. How to prune Chinese evergreen, timing/methods
Chinese evergreen has strong adaptability. If you care for it according to the cultivation methods for Chinese evergreen, it will grow lush branches and leaves. But if it is too lush, it will affect the overall appearance, so at this time we need to prune it properly. However, pruning means cutting from the plant, so you must not be careless. Therefore, for how to prune Chinese evergreen, you should cut at the correct time and use the relevant methods.
II. Pruning methods for Chinese evergreen
(1) Pruning time
Chinese evergreen is relatively tolerant of pruning. Generally, it can be pruned throughout the year, but it is best to do it in spring and summer, because in these two seasons Chinese evergreen grows relatively fast and sprouts easily. Next, the editor will introduce a few pruning tips for everyone.
(2) Pruning tips
① Pinching, to control height
Anyone who grows Chinese evergreen knows that it has a characteristic: as it ages, its stems grow taller and the lower leaves fall off, which makes the shape of the Chinese evergreen look unattractive. At this point, growers need to pinch the top to control the height of the plant.
Pinching: that is, cutting off the branch tips. After removing the most vigorous growing point at the top, Chinese evergreen often sprouts a large number of side branches and produces more leaves.
② Prune old leaves
While controlling the height, growers should also prune the old leaves below the plant that have not yet fallen off, so as to avoid unnecessary nutrient consumption and allow the saved nutrients to be concentrated and transported to the robust growing branches and leaves, thereby making the plant's growth state better, the leaf color fresher green, and the ornamental value higher.
③ Prune branches for cuttings
When pruning Chinese evergreen, growers should also consider keeping the cut parts for cuttings. For the cutting part, we should keep about 15 cm of the top branch, keep 2-4 leaves at the top, and then insert it into sand. For more details, there is a detailed introduction in the propagation methods for Chinese evergreen. Those who are interested can take a look.
How to grow Sedum hispanicum (blue carpet sedum) - precautions for cutting propagation of Sedum hispanicum
Sedum hispanicum is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Sedum in the family Crassulaceae. It is native to Spain and widely distributed from southern Europe to Central Asia. Because the leaf surface of Sedum hispanicum is covered with white wax powder, it is named accordingly. Sedum hispanicum is a flowering potted plant very suitable for home cultivation, blooming in summer. So, what are the cultivation methods and propagation methods of Sedum hispanicum? Follow the editor to learn about Sedum hispanicum.
How to grow Sedum hispanicum
The planting method of Sedum hispanicum is not difficult, but if you want to cultivate a Sedum hispanicum with greater ornamental value, you need to put in some effort. Below, the editor will specifically introduce how to grow Sedum hispanicum well.
I. During the growth period of Sedum hispanicum, the potting soil should be kept moist, but there should be no standing water, and it should not be exposed to long-term rain. These are all to prevent the plant from rotting.
II. In winter, it is best to place Sedum hispanicum in a place with sufficient light, control watering, and just keep the soil from freezing. In the high-temperature summer season, good ventilation is required, and a stuffy, hot, and humid environment should be avoided to prevent the plant from rotting.
III. Sedum hispanicum grows rapidly, so attention should be paid to timely pruning of branches. When growth is too dense, the pot should be divided to maintain the beauty of the plant shape. Its fleshy stems are relatively brittle and break easily, so care should be taken when repotting to avoid breaking the longer branches and affecting the ornamental effect.
Cutting propagation method for Sedum hispanicum
Sedum hispanicum plants are small and exquisite, very cute, and are often used as supplementary material for bonsai, so it is very necessary to master the propagation methods of Sedum hispanicum. The editor will introduce the cutting and division propagation methods of Sedum hispanicum for you.
Rohdea japonica (Japanese sacred lily) illustrated guide: how to grow Rohdea japonica / how to propagate Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonica profileRohdea japonica
Cultivation methods and precautions for Rohdea japonica - introduction to Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonica (scientific name: Rohdea japonica) is the only species under the genus Rohdea. It is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant, also known as yun, qiannian yun, kaihoujian, jiujielian, dongbudiao, dongbudiaocao, tiebiandan, wumudu, baishacao, zhanshejian, etc. It is native to southern China and Japan and is a very popular excellent ornamental plant. It has a long cultivation history in China, and its Chinese name "yun" means "a herbaceous plant that likes warmth."
Morphological characteristics of Rohdea japonica
Rhizome 1.5-2.5 cm thick. Leaves 3-6, thickly papery, oblong, lanceolate, or oblanceolate, 15-50 cm long, 2.5-7 cm wide, apex acute, base slightly narrowed, green, longitudinal veins obviously raised; sheath leaves lanceolate, 5-12 cm long. Scape shorter than leaves, 2.5-4 cm long; spike 3-4 cm long, 1.2-1.7 cm wide; with dozens of densely packed flowers; bracts ovate, membranous, shorter than flowers, 2.5-6 mm long, 2-4 mm wide; perianth 4-5 mm long, 6 mm wide, pale yellow, lobes thick; anthers ovate, 1.4-1.5 mm long. Berry about 8 mm in diameter, red when ripe. Flowering period May-June, fruiting period September-November.
Produced in Shandong, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hubei, Hunan, Guangxi, Guizhou, Sichuan. It grows in damp places under forests or on grassland, at an altitude of 750-1700 m.
The whole plant has the effects of clearing heat and detoxifying, dispersing blood stasis, and relieving pain. Potted plants are often grown everywhere for ornamental purposes.
Perennial evergreen herb, without aerial stem. Rhizome thick and short, yellow-white, noded, with many slender fibrous roots growing on the nodes. Leaves clustered from the rhizome, thick, lanceolate or band-shaped, 10-25 cm long, 2.5-5.5 cm wide, margins slightly folded inward, base gradually narrowed into a petiole-like shape, dark green above, light green below, with multiple straight parallel veins, the main vein relatively thick. [1] In spring and summer, scapes grow from the leaf cluster, 10-20 cm long; flowers numerous, clustered at the top and arranged in a short spike; perianth 6-parted, pale greenish-white, ovate to triangular, apex pointed, base wide, lower part united into a disc shape; stamens 6, sessile, anthers oblong; ovary spherical, style short, stigma 3-lobed. Berry spherical, orange-red; containing 1 seed.
Variety classification of Rohdea japonica - Dieffenbachia
[Alias] Dumb cane.
[Scientific name] Dieffenbachia maculata
[Family and genus] Araceae, Dieffenbachia.
[Morphology] Perennial evergreen herb. Stems stout, mostly fleshy, plant height up to 1 m. Leaves large and glossy, borne on the upper part of the stem, elliptic-ovate or broadly lanceolate, apex acuminate, margin entire, 20-50 cm long, 5-15 cm wide, both sides of the leaves dark green, inlaid with dense, irregular spots, streaks, and patches of white, milky white, pale yellow, and other colors. Common horticultural varieties include Dieffenbachia 'Rudolph Roehrs', Dieffenbachia 'Camille', Dieffenbachia 'Compacta', etc.
[Habits] Native to tropical America. Prefers high temperature, high humidity, and semi-shade or shaded environments. Not cold-tolerant, avoids direct strong light, and requires loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam.
[Propagation] Mainly by cuttings. In spring from April to May, cut off the small plants growing from the base of the plant, let the wound dry slightly, or coat the wound with plant ash, then insert into plain sandy soil, taking care to shade and keep moist; roots can form in about 1 month and then be potted.
[Cultivation] For potting, use 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, 1 part river sand, plus a small amount of decomposed base fertilizer as the growing medium. During the growing season, to keep the potting soil moist, water more, preferring moist over dry, and at the same time supplement with spraying water on the leaves. In autumn, control moisture, alternating between dry and moist; in winter, pay attention to keeping the potting soil dry. During the growing period, fertilize generally once a month, and usually prevent direct sunlight and provide shade. Repot once every spring. The wintering temperature in winter must not be lower than 10°C.
[Uses] Potted ornamental. Suitable for decorating the living room and study.
Decorative application: Small potted plants can be placed on a desk or windowsill for viewing. Medium potted plants are suitable for placing in the living room beside the sofa as decoration, which can fill the room with green vitality.
Light: Tolerant of semi-shade, avoids excessively strong sunlight, but too dark light will also cause the leaves to fade.
Water: Likes moisture, and during the growing period from March to August it should be watered more. In summer, it needs frequent sprinkling to increase environmental humidity.
Temperature: Likes high temperature, not cold-tolerant, suitable growth temperature 20-30°C. The minimum wintering temperature is above 12°C. Once frozen, the leaves turn yellow and wilt, and the terminal bud dies.
Fertilizer: During the growing period, apply nitrogen fertilizer monthly to promote rapid growth; from March to August, apply fertilizer water once every two weeks. Reduce fertilization after autumn.
Soil: Requires loose, fertile, well-drained soil.
[Propagation]: Cutting propagation. Can be carried out in spring and summer. Take 10-15 cm long young branches and insert them into yellow sand medium; they will root in 20-30 days. Later, repot into new pots according to plant size.
Ornithogalum caudatum (false sea onion)
[Brief introduction] Ornithogalum caudatum is native to southern Africa. It likes sunlight, is also tolerant of semi-shade, and is cold-tolerant. In summer it fears direct sunlight and likes a moist environment. After heavy frost in winter, the leaf cluster still remains verdant. The bulb has a summer dormancy habit, has strong division capacity, and a high propagation coefficient.
[Propagation] Commonly propagated by bulb division and sowing. For natural bulb division propagation, dig up the bulbs in August-September, grade them by size, and plant them; after one planting, divide the bulbs again after several years when the bulbs become crowded. For sowing propagation, seedlings need 3-4 years of cultivation before they can bloom.
[Cultivation] It grows robustly and tolerates extensive management. Fertilize once every half month; the soil should be loose, moist, and well-drained. After flowering, remove the residual flower stalks, and it will bloom more abundantly the next year. The bulb storage temperature is 25°C, and it needs dry and ventilated conditions.
[Pests and diseases] Among diseases, there is harm from mosaic disease; the virus is transmitted by aphids and can be controlled by spraying with 2.5% rotenone extract at 800 times dilution.
[Application] Ornithogalum caudatum blooms from mid-April to early May. The flowers include white, orange, and double-flowered types. In spring, the star-shaped white flowers shimmer, elegant and simple. It is an excellent material for arranging natural-style gardens and rock gardens, and is also suitable for cut flowers and potted ornamental display.
Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema)
Also called painted drop-tongue. Chinese evergreen is a perennial herb of the family Araceae, with a plant height of 60-70 cm, stems erect and unbranched, and internodes obvious.
Leaves alternate, petioles long, base expanded into a sheath shape, leaves green, long lanceolate or ovate-lanceolate. It blooms in autumn, and the inflorescence is axillary, shorter than the petiole.
Its leaves are broad and glossy, emerald green in all four seasons, and especially shade-tolerant. It can be cut to make foliage bonsai or used as a foil for flower arrangements to decorate the environment, and can also be used for potted decoration of halls and rooms.
Chinese sacred lily (Rohdea japonica)
Chinese sacred lily, known in ancient and modern times, emerald green and evergreen through the four seasons, with orange-red large fruits that do not wither in winter. It is regarded among the people as a symbol of good fortune and was widely cultivated in both the north and south. In the north, potted plants can be placed indoors for viewing in all four seasons.
Rohdea japonica is a perennial herbaceous flower of the genus Rohdea in the family Liliaceae. Underground it has a short, thick rhizome. Leaves grow in a cluster from the top of the rhizome, band-shaped or oblanceolate. The scape is relatively short, emerging from the leaf cluster, with a terminal spike, small white flowers densely arranged, and spherical orange-red berries. The flowering period is June to July. In the north, potted plants rarely bear fruit and are mainly grown for foliage.
The genus Rohdea is native to China, with only this one species. Its varieties include golden-edged Rohdea japonica, silver-edged Rohdea japonica, variegated Rohdea japonica, as well as large-leaved, narrow-leaved, and dwarf varieties. Also commonly cultivated is Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), also known as bamboo-joint Rohdea, a perennial herbaceous flower of the family Araceae, originating from South China, Southwest China, India to Malaysia. It shares the same name as Rohdea japonica but belongs to a different family and genus. Its varieties include the four queens: Gold, Silver, Jade, and Beauty. The leaf colors are inlaid like gold and jade, splendid and brilliant, and all are outstanding among today's indoor ornamental flowers.
Rohdea japonica and Chinese evergreen are potted plants that require a growing medium rich in humus, loose and fertile, and slightly acidic. They like high temperature and high humidity, are not tolerant of severe cold, and must not go below 5°C when overwintering. They like shade and avoid direct strong light. In winter they can be placed in a sunny spot, and in summer they should be shaded. Avoid soaking by rainwater. Chinese sacred lily is mainly propagated by division. Chinese evergreen is mainly propagated by cuttings, preferably in March or from September to October. Chinese evergreen can also have 8 cm long stem segments cut and soaked in clean water until roots emerge, then planted, or grown in water in glass vessels to enjoy the leaves and roots; it remains unfading for a long time. If you want the leaf color to be dark green, you can apply a mixed solution of 0.2% urea and 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate once or twice in spring and autumn.
Rohdea japonica and Chinese evergreen should have their pots turned and soil changed once every two to three years in early spring. After repotting, place them in a warm, humid, shaded place, and frequently spray water on the leaves and surrounding environment to keep them moist. In the Beijing area, they can be placed outdoors under a shade shed after mid-May and brought indoors in early October, placed in a place with fresh air and no smoke or dust pollution.
Oyster plant (Tradescantia spathacea)
Rhoeo discolor Alias: clam plant, purple Rhoeo, purple brocade orchid; Commelinaceae
The genus Rhoeo is native to Mexico and the West Indies.
It is an evergreen perennial herbaceous plant. Leaves lanceolate, green on the front, marked with stripes of varying shades, purple-red on the back, also with stripes of varying shades of purple-red (see figure). Stems and leaves somewhat succulent. Flowering period August-October, tends to set seed easily. The small flowers are white. Because the flowers grow within two purple-red clam-shaped large bracts, resembling a clam shell spitting out pearls, it is also called "clam flower."
Its leaves have different colors on the two sides, emerald and bright with variations. The plant shape is moderate, and the posture is graceful. The red bracts contain many jade-white small flowers, with obvious color contrast, peculiar and interesting, presenting the scene of a clam shell spitting out pearls. It is very rare and makes people never tire of looking at it.
The oyster plant prefers a semi-shaded, moist environment, likes fertile, loose sandy loam, is relatively drought-tolerant, fears exposure to the sun, and is afraid of cold. It stops growing at 10°C, so it is better to overwinter above 10°C.
It has good shade tolerance and also a relatively strong ability to adapt to dry climates, so it has become an excellent foliage plant for indoor cultivation in both northern and southern regions of China. It can be placed for a long time in a bright living room. If the room is relatively dark, it is advisable to replace it about once every 20 days.
Its propagation is mainly by sowing. The tiny seeds can be sown as soon as collected; seedlings emerge in half a month, and when the seedlings are 3-5 cm tall they can be transplanted. It can also be propagated by cuttings, carried out in spring and autumn. Cut off the leafy top part, insert it into sandy soil, place it in a shaded place, and do not let it become too wet; it will root in about 20 days, and when new leaves grow, switch to normal management. The remaining old stems can still send out new branches again.
Zebra leaf Dieffenbachia
Zebra leaf Dieffenbachia is also called giant dumb cane and mute sugarcane. It is a perennial herbaceous plant of the family Araceae, with a cylindrical, fleshy stem, and the stem often has white ring markings, which are traces left after the leaves fall off. The leaves of zebra leaf Dieffenbachia are long elliptic, and on both sides of the green main vein, irregular white or goose-yellow spots and streaks are scattered on the leaf surface, appearing especially beautiful and elegant, like the stripes on a zebra, hence the name zebra leaf Dieffenbachia.
Native to Colombia. It likes heat and humidity. The growth temperature should be controlled at 25°C to 30°C. In winter, the room temperature should be kept at 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. Zebra leaf Dieffenbachia is suitable for indoor cultivation. When cultivating, a water tray can be placed under the pot, with water in the tray, so that moisture can continuously pass through the small holes in the pot bottom to maintain the humidity of the potting soil.
Common varieties include:
1. Golden-edged Rohdea japonica (var. marginata).
2. Silver-edged Rohdea japonica (Var. variegata).
There are also other varieties such as large-leaved, narrow-leaved, dwarf, and those with yellow-white markings. More are found in Japan and Taiwan, China.
Distribution area of Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonica is native to China and Japan. It is widely distributed in China, found in East China, Central China, and Southwest China. The main producing areas include Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hubei, and other places.
Ecological habits of Rohdea japonica
It likes to grow in damp places under forests or in grassland.
It likes semi-shade, warmth, humidity, and a well-ventilated environment. It is not drought-tolerant and is slightly cold-tolerant; it avoids direct sunlight and waterlogging.
It can generally be cultivated in ordinary garden soil, but the best is slightly acidic sandy loam rich in [2] humus, loose, and with good water permeability.
Propagation methods of Rohdea japonica
Both sowing and division propagation are possible.
The berries of Rohdea japonica mature in December. After maturity, they can be sown as soon as collected into potting soil mixed with equal parts fine sand and leaf mold. Cover the pot with glass or tie on plastic film to maintain the potting soil's moisture, temperature, and light. If the temperature is controlled at 20°C, they will germinate in 20-30 days. When the seedlings grow to 3-4 leaves, they can be divided and potted.
(1) Division method: Division method: Rohdea japonica has strong sprouting ability from the underground stem. In spring and autumn, use a sharp knife to cut off the newly sprouted shoots at the rhizome together with some lateral roots, coat the wound with plant ash, plant them into pots, water slightly, place in a shaded place, and after 1-2 days water thoroughly. Alternatively, the entire plant can be taken out of the pot, and depending on the size of the plant, use a sharp tool to divide it into several parts, let the wounds dry for a day or coat them with plant ash, and pot them as in the management described above.
(2) Sowing method: Sowing is generally carried out from March to April. Sow in flower pots filled with growing medium, water, then temporarily place in a shaded place, keep moist, and under conditions of 25-30°C, they will germinate in about 25 days.
Cultivation techniques for Rohdea japonica - cultivation management
For potted Rohdea japonica, it is best to use sandy loam rich in humus as the growing medium. The soil pH for Rohdea japonica is 6-6.5, which can fully release soil nutrients and effectively promote flowering and fruiting. Repot regularly once a year. When repotting, remove rotten dead leaves and rhizomes, and use acidic soil with potassium fertilizer as the cultivation soil. After planting, place Rohdea japonica in a cool place for a few days so it can recover its vitality.
Cultivation methods for Rohdea japonica: keep it warm, moist, and semi-shaded. In summer, when growth is vigorous, it needs to be placed in a shaded place to avoid strong light, otherwise it is easy to cause dry leaf tips and scorched edges, affecting the ornamental effect. Therefore, after being brought out in early spring, it should be placed under a shaded trellis or eaves, or in a shaded place on a balcony. Rohdea japonica is a fleshy-rooted plant, and standing water can easily cause waterlogging; too much watering can easily cause root rot. But the air must remain humid; if the air is dry, adverse phenomena such as dry leaf tips are also likely to occur. In summer, water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flower pot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Attention should also be paid to preventing heavy rain from drenching it, especially during the flowering period when it must not be rained on; it should be placed in a shaded, dry, ventilated place protected from rain.
During the growing period, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once about every 20 days; in early summer, when growth is relatively vigorous, apply Rohdea japonica liquid fertilizer once about every 10 days as a top dressing. A small amount of 0.5% ammonium sulfate can be added to the top dressing, which can promote better growth, with dark green and glossy leaf color. In the vigorous flowering period of June-July, apply a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution once about every 15 days to promote flower bud differentiation, so as to facilitate better flowering and fruiting (around the Beginning of Summer, several old leaves on the outer part of the mature plant should be cut off to facilitate the sprouting of new buds, new leaves, and the emergence of scapes).
In winter, Rohdea japonica needs to be moved indoors for the winter, placed in a sunny, well-ventilated place, with the temperature kept at 6-18°C. If the room temperature is too high, it can easily cause leggy leaves and consume a large amount of nutrients, leading to weak growth the next year and affecting normal flowering and fruiting. If in winter Rohdea japonica shows yellow scorched leaf tips or even withering of the whole plant, it is mainly caused by the roots not being able to absorb water, affecting growth. Therefore, in winter, the air should also be kept humid and the potting soil slightly moist; generally watering 1-2 times a week is appropriate. In addition, the leaves should also be sprayed and washed once a week with warm water to prevent the leaves from being polluted by smoke and dust, so as to keep the stems and leaves fresh green and verdant throughout the four seasons.
Key cultivation points
The planting environment should be kept warm, moist, and semi-shaded. In summer, it is best to place it indoors about 80 cm from a south-facing windowsill or outdoors in a shaded place to avoid direct strong sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched. In addition to sufficient watering, water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flower pot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Pay attention to moisture control. After being brought indoors in winter, the room temperature must not be lower than 12°C. If the room temperature is too low, it is easy to cause the plant to suffer cold and drop leaves and die.
Precautions
1. Planting: plant in spring or repot and change soil. It has no strict requirements for soil, but fears waterlogging. When planted in the ground or in pots, avoid hard clay and alkaline soil. For potting, generally use a mixed soil of leaf mold plus sand. In the south, it can be potted or cultivated in the open field; in the north, greenhouse cultivation is needed. Change the soil once a year, repot once every 2 years, and supplement with new fertile soil.
2. Light and temperature: Rohdea japonica likes a semi-shaded environment and fears direct sun in summer. For greenhouse cultivation, shading should be more than 60% in spring, summer, and autumn, and 40% in winter. Too strong light easily causes sunburn, and too weak light makes it difficult to bloom and fruit. The suitable growth temperature is 15-18°C. In winter dormancy, move it into the greenhouse, place it in a sunny place, and keep the temperature above 10°C; the minimum temperature must not be lower than 5°C. In the Yangtze River basin, it can overwinter in the open field. Although the leaves may suffer frost damage, new leaves can still sprout again the next year.
3. Watering and fertilizing: during the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once every 10-15 days. In summer, strengthen ventilation, prevent heatstroke and lower the temperature, and provide sufficient water, often keeping the potting soil moist and the surrounding air humid. In summer, water 1-2 times a day. In winter, reduce watering and stop fertilizing.
4. Shaping and pruning: in order to maintain a good plant shape and improve ornamental value, as the plant grows, yellow leaves, residual leaves, and some old leaves on the lower part of the plant should be pruned in time. When grown as a household pot plant, a soft cloth dipped in beer can be used to wipe the leaves, which can both remove dust and add nutrients to the leaves, making them bright green and clean.
Cultivation of Ornithogalum caudatum (eyebrow brush Rohdea)
Depending on the growth cycle or plant morphology, the distribution differs, and the cultivation methods also vary somewhat. The bulbous scales grow on or in the ground and are ovate or spherical; the leaf flesh is thick, evergreen, alternately arranged on both sides from the base, with a beautiful luster on the surface, shaped like a tongue; flowers bloom singly, with small pedicels, numerous stamens, and yellow anthers at the tips. Because the Japanese feel it closely resembles the brush used by ancient Japanese ladies to brush away excess white powder on their eyebrows, it is called eyebrow brush. The spherical red berries and seeds resemble those of Clivia and are fleshy.
Ornithogalum caudatum is strong in both heat tolerance and cold tolerance, with a minimum of about 5°C, but evergreen varieties are best kept above 8°C so that the leaves have beautiful ornamental value. It is robust in constitution and free of pests and diseases, but attention should be paid to the harm of spider mites. If any are seen, a little insecticide can be sprayed.
Cultivation is quite easy. It avoids direct strong light. In summer, it needs to be placed in a ventilated half-day shaded place for cultivation. It can be placed indoors, but attention must be paid to sufficient light to prevent leggy leaves and affect growth. It has good drought tolerance and avoids high humidity. If the soil is too wet, it easily causes the bulb to rot. During the growth period, water thoroughly after the surface soil dries. Once a month, apply Hyponex No. 2 or Hyponex liquid diluted and use it as water. However, as the dormancy period approaches, gradually reduce the frequency and amount of watering. During the dormancy period, watering can be stopped, but evergreen varieties can still be given a little water during dormancy to maintain the emerald green of the leaves.
Repotting can be carried out at the end of the dormancy period or the early part of the growth period. For summer-dormant types, it can be done around July; for winter-dormant types, around April. Use well-drained soil; small-grain akadama soil and Daeheukto growing medium can be mixed for use. When planting, let about half of the bulb be exposed above the ground and plant it shallowly in the pot.
Generally, it can be propagated by bulb division or sowing. The bulbs can be divided about once every 3-5 years, which is a quite simple and easy method. It can also be sown after flowering using the mature fleshy seeds in the spherical berries. However, the germination rate of the seeds decreases with longer storage time, and they do not tolerate storage, so they need to be sown as soon as possible. Ornithogalum caudatum takes at least 3-4 years from seed germination to flowering. What a long wait!
Ornithogalum caudatum is easy to cultivate and robust in constitution. Usually, its fresh green leaves can be enjoyed as a foliage plant, and when it blooms, its peculiar flowers can also be appreciated. It is quite suitable for beginners growing succulents to cultivate.
Care knowledge - Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema)
An evergreen herbaceous plant of the family Araceae and the genus Aglaonema, also known as painted drop-tongue. Stems erect, 40 cm to 50 cm tall. Leaves ovate to ovate-lanceolate, base obtuse, apex acuminate. The inflorescence emerges from the lower sheath, and the spathe is small and green.
It originates from Southwest China and South China, and is also distributed from India to Malaysia. It likes a warm, humid, and partially shaded environment. For potting, a loose, fertile, humus-rich, well-drained slightly acidic soil is suitable. It is not cold-tolerant, and the wintering temperature is 5°C to 8°C. The leaf surface needs frequent spraying with water, and the potting soil should often remain moist. It is mainly propagated by cuttings, and roots very easily at 25°C; division can also be used.
Chinese evergreen is very adaptable to indoor environments. It can be potted or placed in a bottle, and can continue to grow and remain unfading for a long time. Common famous varieties include: Aglaonema commutatum 'Treubii', with a short stem, branching at the base, ovate leaves, white spots, and white veins. Aglaonema pictum, shrub-like, with irregular bright green or gray-white markings on the leaf surface. Aglaonema costatum, with a white stem marked with green lines and branching. The leaf surface has irregular yellow-brown markings, and the spathe is greenish-white. These three Aglaonema varieties are not cold-tolerant, and the suitable wintering temperature should not be lower than 18°C.
Dieffenbachia (variegated Chinese evergreen)
The leaves of Dieffenbachia have many irregular white or pale yellow spots, with bright tones and year-round green color.
[Water]: Likes moisture. Water more in summer, but avoid standing water, and frequently spray the leaf surface. Reduce watering in winter. Do not let it get rained on during the flowering period.
[Fertilizer]: It has low fertilizer requirements. Apply base fertilizer when repotting; generally no additional fertilization is needed.
[Soil]: It is highly adaptable, but loose, well-aerated, slightly acidic loam is the most suitable.
[Temperature]: In northern regions it needs to overwinter indoors in winter; in the Jiangnan region it can overwinter outdoors, and no frost damage occurs above 5°C.
[Light]: It prefers semi-shade and dislikes exposure to strong sunlight. Indoors, it should be placed in a ventilated spot with indirect light.
[Propagation]: Division propagation. In early spring, divide the sucker shoots and plant them together with the roots; they take root easily. Sowing is also possible, but generally not used. Division can be done together with repotting, generally repotting once a year, dividing the clustered plants into several clumps for separate cultivation, and dividing once every 3 years.
Rhoeo discolor (Moses-in-the-cradle)
Rhoeo discolor, also called purple brocade orchid, is an evergreen perennial herb of the Commelinaceae family. Its leaves are broadly lanceolate, arranged in a ring on short stems; the leaf surface is smooth and dark green, and the leaf underside is dark purple. The flowers are axillary; the white flowers are wrapped by two mussel-shell-like purple bracts, and the filaments bear long white hairs. It is a common foliage plant cultivated indoors.
This plant is native to Mexico and the West Indies. It likes a warm, humid climate and grows best in an environment of 15-25°C. It likes light but also tolerates shade, fears scorching sun, and requires fertile soil with good water retention.
For Rhoeo discolor, the potting soil is best mixed with 2 parts pond mud and 1 part peat. Because it is highly adaptable, management is relatively simple: except that from May to October it needs shading or placement in semi-shade, at other times it should be given sufficient light; watering should err on the side of moisture rather than dryness, but it must not be excessively wet or waterlogged, otherwise the roots will rot over time; when the weather is dry, spray water frequently to keep the growing environment at relatively high air humidity; fertilizing should not be excessive, and 1-2 applications of cake fertilizer water are enough. In winter, place it indoors in a humid spot, keep it at around 6-10°C, and keep the soil slightly moist; do not let it be too wet.
Rhoeo discolor is mostly propagated by division, and can also be propagated by cuttings or sowing. Division is usually carried out in spring together with repotting; the method is to cut the dense mother plant apart from the gaps with a sharp knife. Cuttings can be taken throughout the growing season: cut 7-10 cm from the stem tip, remove the lower leaves, insert into sand, keep moist, and roots will form in about 2 weeks. Sowing is often done in pots in April, and the seedlings grow rapidly after emergence. When the seedlings are about one cun long, they should be transplanted in time, and by autumn of that year they can grow into full plants.
Dieffenbachia 'Zebra' (zebra-leaf dumb cane)
Dieffenbachia 'Zebra' is native to Colombia. It likes a warm, humid climate, and its optimum growth temperature is 25°C to 30°C. In winter the indoor temperature should also be maintained at around 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. The potting soil can be mixed with 7 parts leaf mold, 3 parts loam and 1 part sand. Dieffenbachia 'Zebra' likes a semi-shade environment and dislikes direct sunlight; it can be grown indoors all year round. It tolerates water and moisture, so a water tray can be placed under the pot, with water in the tray so that water continuously seeps into the potting soil through the small holes in the bottom of the pot. In winter, watering should be restricted; the lower the temperature, the more care should be taken to water less. In winter some leaves may turn yellow and fall off, but as long as they are not frozen, new leaves can grow again the following spring. If it is placed indoors for the winter and grows weakly with a tendency to become leggy, it can be placed outdoors in semi-shade for a period during the growing season, and moved back indoors after its vigor recovers. Fertilizing can be done during the growing season, depending on the growth vigor, once or twice a month, mostly with decomposed liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer, to promote a green and lush leaf color, but nitrogen fertilizer should not be used too much.
Its "flower" is the typical spathe-and-spadix inflorescence of the Araceae family. It rarely or never sets seeds, so it is difficult to propagate by seed. Propagation is basically asexual, mainly by tissue culture and cuttings. Tissue culture propagation has a high success rate and low cost, but requires certain equipment and conditions. The cutting method is to cut the old stems into 10 to 15 cm sections in spring, insert them obliquely into sandy soil, keep them moist, and transplant them into pots after they take root and grow leaves. Alternatively, during the peak growing season, cut the stems into small sections with one or two nodes, about five or six cm long, let them dry for a few days until the cut surface is dry, then plant them directly in pots, keep moist, and they will quickly take root and grow leaves. You can also cut leaf-bearing stem sections and insert them into a transparent glass water bottle, fixing them with white rice stone used for architectural decoration; in about half a month you can see it grow pure white, jade-like adventitious roots, so you can enjoy both the leaves and the roots. Because its sap is toxic, be careful not to let it touch the skin, mouth or eyes during handling. There are more than 30 varieties in the same genus as Dieffenbachia 'Zebra', which also have some ornamental value, but this species is the largest, with thick, hard leaves, elegant and beautiful markings and luster, a tall plant and sturdy stems; it is an ideal indoor ornamental specimen.
Other types
The key points of its cultivation are: warmth, humidity and semi-shade. In summer, potted plants are best placed indoors about 80 cm from a south-facing windowsill, or outdoors in a shaded place, avoiding direct strong sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched. In addition to sufficient watering, water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flower pot every morning and evening to help create a humid microclimate. During the growing period, do not water too much; when the surface of the potting soil turns white, that is the right time to water. Apply liquid fertilizer once every half month.
In the north, after being brought indoors for winter, the room temperature must not be lower than 12°C. If the temperature is too low, it is prone to cold damage, leaf drop and death. In winter, spray and wash the leaf surface with warm water once a week to prevent the leaves from being contaminated by smoke and dust, so as to keep the stems and leaves fresh and beautiful.
Management
For potted Rohdea japonica (lily-of-the-valley bush), sandy loam rich in humus should be used as the potting soil. A soil pH of 6-6.5 is more conducive to fully exerting the effectiveness of nutrients and is suitable for the plant to flower and fruit. Repot once a year in March-April or October-November. When repotting, remove the aged rhizomes and persistent dead leaves, and plant with fertilized acidic cultivation soil. After potting, place it in a shady place for a few days. The key points of cultivating Rohdea japonica are: warmth, humidity and semi-shade. It grows vigorously in summer and needs to be placed in shade to avoid strong light, otherwise it is easy to cause dry leaf tips and scorched edges, affecting the ornamental effect. Rohdea japonica has fleshy roots and is most afraid of waterlogging, so it cannot be watered too much, otherwise it easily causes root rot. Usually, just water the potting soil with an appropriate amount of water; do not water until the potting soil is dry, and it is better to keep it on the dry side than too wet. In addition to keeping the potting soil moist in summer, watering should not be too frequent in spring and autumn. In summer, water should also be sprinkled on the ground around the flower pot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Also be careful to protect it from heavy rain.[3]
During the growing period, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once every 20 days or so; in early summer, when growth is relatively vigorous, apply liquid fertilizer once every 10 days or so, and a small amount of 0.5% ammonium sulfate can be added to the topdressing, which can promote better growth and a dark green, glossy leaf color. In the peak flowering months of June-July, apply a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution once every 15 days or so to promote flower bud differentiation and better flowering and fruiting. During the flowering period, it must not be rained on; place it in a shady, dry, ventilated place protected from rain.
In winter, Rohdea japonica needs to be moved indoors for the winter, placed in a sunny, well-ventilated place, with the temperature maintained at 6-18°C, to prevent the room temperature from being too high, which would cause the plant to consume too many nutrients.
Fruiting
The fruit of Rohdea japonica is often not easy to set. How can it be made to bear fruit?
① Watering should not be too frequent; do not water until the potting soil is dry. Better dry than too wet.
② During flowering it must not be rained on; place it in a cool, ventilated place protected from rain.
③ Do not fertilize too much; applying winter fertilizer once a year is enough.
④ There must be an environment for snails to carry pollen.
If the above four points can be achieved, fruiting can generally be expected. It flowers in May-June and the fruit ripens in September-October. Under normal circumstances, the fruit does not fall off through the winter.
Leaves
Rohdea japonica likes a warm, humid and semi-shade environment and dislikes direct strong light in summer. The key to growing Rohdea japonica well is to avoid direct strong light in summer when the weather is hot and the sunlight is intense. Otherwise, it is easy to cause dry leaf tips and scorched edges or even yellowing, affecting the ornamental effect.
Therefore, after being moved outdoors in early spring, it should be placed under a shaded trellis or eaves or in a shaded spot on a balcony, and care should be taken to prevent rain. In addition to keeping the potting soil moist in summer, watering should not be too frequent in spring and autumn, and watering should be controlled in winter. Rohdea japonica has fleshy roots, so it is most afraid of waterlogging; if watered too much, it easily rots the roots. But the air must be kept humid; if the air is dry, it is also prone to undesirable phenomena such as dry leaf tips.
In spring and autumn, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 3-4 weeks, which can make the plant grow robustly and the leaves green. In addition, around the beginning of summer, several old leaves on the outer part of the mature plant should be cut off to facilitate the sprouting of new buds and new leaves and the emergence of flower scapes.
Cold damage
When the winter temperature is below 5°C, Dieffenbachia picta is highly susceptible to cold damage, and if not managed in time it can die. So what corresponding measures should be taken after cold damage?
[Slight cold damage]: The leaf surface loses its proper luster, and the leaves droop as if dehydrated. At this time, Dieffenbachia picta should be moved to a warmer place so that it gradually returns to normal. Note that the temperature must not rise suddenly after the damage, to avoid the leaves wilting.
[Mild cold damage]: In addition to drooping, the leaves develop cold-damage patches like scalds from boiling water. When handling, cut off the cold patches on the leaves and move the plant to a warm place.
[Moderate cold damage]: Most of the leaves show cold patches, and the petioles show water-soaked patches and lose green color. At this time, cut off the leaves together with the petioles, smear the wounds with plant ash or coal ash, then place in a warm place, appropriately control watering, and let it slowly return to normal.
[Severe cold damage]: The young branches and new leaves lose green color and show water-soaked patches, and the underground root system is chilled and rots. The remedy is to dig up the plant in time, cut off the underground parts, and cut off the damaged branches and stems; after smearing the wounds with plant ash, store them in moist plain sand and take cuttings in early spring. If severe cold damage occurs and disease spots appear on the entire plant, then the hope of rescue is very slim, and replacing the plant should be considered.
Pest and disease control of Rohdea japonica
During the growing period, Rohdea japonica is susceptible to leaf spot, anthracnose, scale insects, brown soft scale and other damage.
(1) Leaf spot. This disease occurs on the leaves of Rohdea japonica, and is prone to occur in weather with high humidity. The lesion initially appears as a small brown spot, with a water-soaked, faded-green margin, expanding in concentric rings, round to oval, with a brown edge and grayish-white center. In the later stage, dark brown mold spots appear in the center of the lesion, becoming a dark brown mold layer under humid conditions. The method to control this disease is to remove diseased and dead leaves in time; both in the early and late stages of the disease, spray with 0.5%-1% Bordeaux mixture (or 50% carbendazim 1000-fold solution).
(2) Anthracnose. This disease also occurs on the leaves of Rohdea japonica, and in severe cases can spread to the petioles. The lesion initially appears as small water-soaked yellow spots, and after expansion is oval to irregular brown or yellowish-brown, slightly showing concentric rings; in the later stage the lesions merge into one another, becoming dry and withered, and producing small black dots arranged in concentric rings. This disease is mainly caused by poor ventilation, and the presence of scale insect damage favors the occurrence of the disease. The method to control this disease is to strengthen maintenance and apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; in the early stage of the disease, spray with 0.3%-0.5% equal-amount Bordeaux mixture (or 60% zineb 800-900-fold solution, or 70% thiophanate 1500-fold solution).
(3) Brown soft scale. This insect has complex feeding habits and can harm many plants; Rohdea japonica is one of the affected flowers. When brown soft scale harms plants, it generally gathers on the leaf surface or young leaves, piercing and sucking the plant sap, and at the same time excreting sticky fluid; its excrement easily causes sooty mold fungi to multiply in large numbers, making the stems and leaves turn black, affecting the plant's photosynthesis, causing weak growth and yellowing leaves, and hindering ornamentation. When the infestation is severe, the branches and stems are covered with insect bodies, causing the plant to turn yellow and affecting growth.
Control methods: ① If there are few affected plants, or the number of insects is not large, generally scraping off the insect bodies with a bamboo strip or similar is enough; ② during the nymph hatching period, spray with 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000-fold solution (or 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000-fold solution), and you can also spray 5% phosmet emulsifiable concentrate 1000-fold solution to kill them.
[Distribution]Jiangsu, Zhejiang and other places.
[Symptoms]In the early stage of the leaf disease, water-soaked small spots appear on the underside of the leaves; after 2-3 days the lesions are slightly sunken, small brown spots, pinhead-sized, round or irregular, and later gradually expand into dark brown or reddish-brown round or irregular lesions, 1.5-3.0 mm in diameter, with slight concentric rings on the lesions and a faded zone around the margin. Many spots can occur on a single leaf, especially on the older leaves at the lower part, where there are even more spots. The lesions expand and gradually merge together, and the veins and petioles also turn brown, causing most of the leaf to die; the stem symptom is called black rot, and the vascular bundles of the diseased stems and branches turn brown to black. At this time, the leaves on the stems wither, showing polygonal necrosis symptoms; subsequently bacteria infect the pith and cortex, only a few leaf clusters remain at the tips of the branches, and the entire stem turns black, shrinks and rots. When cuttings are affected, they cannot take root, and slowly rot from the base upward, and the leaves wither, showing polygonal necrosis.
[Pathogen]The pathogen is a bacterium, Xanthomonas campestris pv. pelargonii of the genus Xanthomonas, order Eubacteriales, class Eubacteria; it is rod-shaped with rounded ends and a single polar flagellum. Its optimum temperature for growth and development is 25-27°C, the minimum is 1°C, and the lethal temperature is 51-51.5°C.
[Disease pattern]The bacterium can be spread by cuttings, contact and splashing water droplets, and seeds may possibly carry and transmit the bacterium; in moist soil the bacterium can survive for 3 months; in greenhouse cultivation, when planting is too dense and growth is rapid, the disease is more severe; old leaves at the lower part of the plant are more severely affected; the disease is more severe in warm, humid conditions; high nitrogen, high phosphorus and low calcium favor the disease, while high potassium, low phosphorus and high calcium suppress the symptoms. Different species and varieties of geranium differ in disease resistance: among geranium varieties, Pelargonium grandiflorum is highly resistant, Pelargonium graveolens is moderately resistant, and Pelargonium peltatum is highly susceptible. Some plants of the Geraniaceae family are asymptomatic carriers.
[Control methods]
(1) Horticultural control: Keep the plants ventilated and exposed to light, and avoid excessively high humidity; do not spray water directly on the plants, to avoid spreading the disease through splashing water droplets; do not select cuttings from diseased plants; remove all diseased leaves and diseased branches to avoid contaminating the leaves with bacterium-carrying soil. Diseased soil should be treated in a centralized manner, and when necessary, sterilize the soil and flower pots. The bacterium can survive in the soil on propagation beds, so avoid splashing diseased soil onto healthy plants. Spray 1% Bordeaux mixture once every 10-15 days for prevention.
(2) Chemical control: Spray agricultural streptomycin 1000 units, or try 14% copper ammonia complex 300-fold solution, or 50% xiaojunling 1000-fold solution.
(3) Thoroughly remove all diseased plants and diseased residues. Soak and disinfect flower pots, planting benches and tools with 10% bleaching powder solution, disinfect the soil with 2% formalin solution, or replace it with new soil. Use disease-free seedlings.
(4) Before and after the disease occurs, spray 1% Bordeaux mixture or (500-1000) x 0.000001 agricultural streptomycin, for several consecutive times.
Medicinal or dietary value of Rohdea japonica
The medical information and health dietary information on Huhuawang are for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health problem should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and the treatment of any disease should follow a doctor's advice.
Ultimate flower-care mission: To love yourself, start from reality and strictly follow the doctor's advice. For illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope; face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and care for the flower field in your heart with your heart.
Medicinal value
Rohdea japonica is the plant Rohdea japonica of the genus Rohdea in the Liliaceae family, and its rhizome or whole plant is used as medicine. Rohdea japonica is also known as snake-cutting sword, winter-evergreen grass, iron carrying pole, and nine-node chain. Rohdea japonica has the effects of clearing heat and detoxifying, strengthening the heart and promoting diuresis. It is used to prevent and treat diphtheria, myocarditis caused by diphtheria, sore throat, bacillary dysentery, and heart failure due to rheumatic heart disease.
Medicinal name: Rohdea japonica
Aliases: snake-cutting sword, winter-evergreen grass, iron carrying pole, nine-node chain.
Meridian tropism: bitter, slightly sweet, cold. Slightly toxic.
Effects: clearing heat and detoxifying, strengthening the heart and promoting diuresis.
Indications: used to prevent and treat diphtheria, myocarditis caused by diphtheria, sore throat, bacillary dysentery, and heart failure due to rheumatic heart disease; for external use, it treats traumatic injuries, venomous snake bites, burns and scalds, mastitis, and carbuncles and boils.
Dosage and usage: rhizome 15-25 g; leaves 5-10 g; for external use, an appropriate amount, mashed to extract juice and applied to the affected area, or mashed and applied to the affected area.
Source: Rohdea japonica is the plant Rohdea japonica of the genus Rohdea in the Liliaceae family, and its rhizome or whole plant is used as medicine. In autumn, dig up the rhizome, wash it, remove the fibrous roots, and use it fresh or slice and dry it. The whole plant is used fresh and can be collected in all four seasons.
Source morphology: A perennial evergreen herb. The rhizome is short and thick. Leaves are basal, broadly band-shaped, thickly leathery. In spring and summer, a dense spike forms on the scape; the perianth is connate, spherical-bell-shaped, with six lobes, not very obvious, fleshy, pale yellow or brown; there are six stamens; the ovary is spherical, and the stigma is three-lobed. The berry is spherical and orange-red when ripe. It is produced in China and Japan; it is commonly cultivated in southwestern, central and eastern parts of China.
The sap of Rohdea japonica is toxic, and generally the tissue fluid of the stem is the most toxic. If the sticky fluid gets on the hands or skin, it generally causes an allergic reaction, with patches or a very itchy sensation, and scratching it without paying attention will make it itch more. Note that among plants called Rohdea japonica, there are those of the genus Dieffenbachia and those of the genus Aglaonema, and the toxicity of these two varieties is different. If it is taken internally as a Chinese medicine, about 1 hour after an excessive internal dose symptoms such as nausea and vomiting, headache and dizziness, salivation and loss of appetite, blurred vision and fatigue appear; in more severe cases, abdominal pain and diarrhea, a feeling of pressure in the precordial region, numbness of the limbs, coldness of the extremities, pale skin, blurred vision, slow heartbeat, and decreased blood pressure appear; in severe cases the patient may be restless, convulsive, comatose, with dilated pupils, and various arrhythmias may occur, such as premature ventricular beats, atrioventricular block, atrial or ventricular tachycardia, atrioventricular dissociation, atrial fibrillation, or sinus bradycardia, sinoatrial block and junctional rhythm, etc.
Rescue method: For the rescue method and precautions, refer to foxglove (digitalis).
A therapeutic diagnostic test with potassium salts can also be done: add 15-25 ml of 10% potassium chloride solution to 500 ml of 5% glucose solution, and under close observation of the heart, complete the intravenous drip within 2 hours. If the arrhythmia improves, it indicates poisoning by cardiac glycoside-containing drugs.
In addition, Chinese herbal medicine antidotes are as follows:
1. Ginseng 9 g, dwarf lilyturf root 9 g, schisandra fruit 6 g, decoct twice in water, combine the decoctions, and take in 2 divided doses.
2. Strong tea with an appropriate amount of white sugar, drink frequently.
3. Licorice 15 g, mung bean 30 g, decoct in water and take in 2 divided doses.
Toxicity
The sap of Rohdea japonica is toxic, and generally the tissue fluid of the stem is the most toxic. If the sticky fluid gets on the hands or skin, it generally causes an allergic reaction, with patches or a very itchy sensation, and scratching it without paying attention will make it itch more. Note that among plants called Rohdea japonica, there are those of the genus Dieffenbachia and those of the genus Aglaonema, and the toxicity of these two varieties is different. If it is taken internally as a Chinese medicine, about 1 hour after an excessive internal dose symptoms such as nausea and vomiting, headache and dizziness, salivation and loss of appetite, blurred vision and fatigue appear; in more severe cases, abdominal pain and diarrhea, a feeling of pressure in the precordial region, numbness of the limbs, coldness of the extremities, pale skin, blurred vision, slow heartbeat, and decreased blood pressure appear; in severe cases the patient may be restless, convulsive, comatose, with dilated pupils, and various arrhythmias may occur, such as premature ventricular beats, atrioventricular block, atrial or ventricular tachycardia, atrioventricular dissociation, atrial fibrillation, or sinus bradycardia, sinoatrial block and junctional rhythm, etc.
Rescue method: For the rescue method and precautions, refer to foxglove (digitalis).
A therapeutic diagnostic test with potassium salts can also be done: add 15-25 ml of 10% potassium chloride solution to 500 ml of 5% glucose solution, and under close observation of the heart, complete the intravenous drip within 2 hours. If the arrhythmia improves, it indicates poisoning by cardiac glycoside-containing drugs.
In addition, Chinese herbal medicine antidotes are as follows:
1. Ginseng 9 g, dwarf lilyturf root 9 g, schisandra fruit 6 g, decoct twice in water, combine the decoctions, and take in 2 divided doses.
2. Licorice 15 g, mung bean 30 g, decoct in water and take in 2 divided doses.
3. Strong tea with an appropriate amount of white sugar, drink frequently.
Landscape uses of Rohdea japonica
Because Rohdea japonica has broad, verdant leaves and round, bright red berries, it is very beautiful and has always been a flower valued for both its foliage and its fruit.
Its elegant and graceful leaf form makes it often placed on the long tables of studies and halls or beneath long scrolls of calligraphy and painting; in autumn and winter, paired with red fruits, it adds even more color.
[Other uses]The rhizome and leaves can be used as medicine; see below for details.
[Brief history of cultivation and culture]It has a long history of cultivation in China. Because its name and fruit color (red) are auspicious, it has often been used through the ages as a symbol of wealth, good fortune, peace and longevity, and is deeply loved by people.
The Qing dynasty work "Hua Jing" records: "People use its flourishing or decline to divine good or ill fortune; when building a house, moving residence, sending betrothal gifts, managing a pond, or when a child is newly born, it is used for all happy occasions."
The flower language of Rohdea japonica
The flower language of Rohdea japonica: health and longevity
Rohdea japonica is suitable for decorating living rooms and studies. Decorative applications: small potted young plants can be placed on desks and windowsills for viewing. Medium potted plants can be placed in the corners of living rooms or beside sofas as decoration, filling the room with natural vitality. It is famous for its unique air-purifying ability: it can remove nicotine and formaldehyde. The higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the more it can exert its purifying ability!
The cultural background of Rohdea japonica
1. "Hua Jing": Rohdea japonica, also called yun. Broad leaves grow in clumps, dark green, and it does not wither in winter or summer. Many households in Wu plant it, using its flourishing or decline to divine good or ill fortune. When building a house, moving residence, sending betrothal gifts, or when a child is newly born, it is used for all happy occasions, as an auspicious phrase. As for marriage betrothal gifts, although the living plant is not taken, silk and brocade are cut and made to imitate its form as a substitute. It is also placed together with auspicious grass, scallion and pine in a pot, which is also a conventional practice. Planting method: at the spring and autumn equinoxes, divide and plant in pots, and place in a shady place. It is commonly said: the fourteenth day of the fourth month is the birthday of the immortals; the old leaves should be trimmed and thrown onto the main road for people to tread on, then the new leaves will surely grow abundantly. It likes being earthed up with fertilizer and watered with cold tea.
2. "Gangmu Shiyi": In Zhejiang weddings it is often used to accompany gift boxes, taking its meaning of being evergreen in all four seasons and having the sense of eternal spring. {Note}: Among the plants used medicinally as Rohdea japonica, there is also the same-genus plant Rohdea japonica (Thunb.) Roth var. variegata Hort., mostly cultivated.
Film-related
"Leon: The Professional" (originally "This Killer Is Not Too Cold"), as a film about darkness and violence, has received both praise and controversy since its release. In its dark and violent themes and scenes, this pot of Rohdea japonica (Aglaonema 'Silver Queen') plays an important role in diluting the violence and making the images and even the content harmonious.
It is not hard to see that even though Leon wanders everywhere and lives as a fugitive, he still carries this Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' with him, and always likes to put it on the balcony after dawn and take it back after dusk. He regards the Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' as his best friend, carefully waters it, and wipes the dust off its leaves, which more subtly expresses the other side of Leon as a serious killer - not lacking in love. And this better neutralizes the two elements of violence and love.
At the end, the female protagonist Mathilda takes Leon's pot of Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' out of its pot and plants it in a place that looks warm and sunny, where people live in harmony. When Mathilda plants the flower, she does not shed tears, and does not fully express the feeling of losing Leon. She just mutters to Leon's potted plant: I think we'll be okay here... Accompanied by positive emotions, this once again pushes the film to a moving climax.
The role and feng shui effect of Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonica can remove harmful substances such as nicotine and formaldehyde. Growing Rohdea japonica will create a perfect living space for the residential environment. From the perspective of feng shui, growing Rohdea japonica can make people healthy, energetic and vigorous, keep them away from illness, injury and disaster, and make the family happy and auspicious, and husband and wife loving and harmonious. To make good use of the feng shui effect of Rohdea japonica, note that it should be placed in the bedroom, which helps the owner establish a feng shui home and is conducive to the development of the couple's relationship. Generally speaking, people born in the Year of the Rabbit and the Year of the Tiger are suitable for growing woody plants, and Rohdea japonica is the best choice.
Pictures of Rohdea japonica