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Complete Guide to Pest and Disease Control for Globe Amaranth: Chemical Control Delivers Remarkable Results

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When growing globe amaranth, the problem people least want to encounter is undoubtedly pests and diseases. Such problems are extremely harmful to the plant, and if not dealt with in time, they can easily cause the plant to wither and die. So what should you do when globe amaranth gets infested with insects? How should pest and disease control for globe amaranth be carried out?

When growing globe amaranth, the problem people least want to encounter is undoubtedly pests and diseases. Such problems are extremely harmful to the plant, and if not dealt with in time, they can easily cause the plant to wither and die. So what should you do when globe amaranth gets infested with insects? How should pest and disease control for globe amaranth be carried out? Let's take a look below.

I. Complete Guide to Pest and Disease Control for Globe Amaranth

Regarding pest and disease control for globe amaranth, we first need to understand which pest or disease has appeared, so that we can deal with it in a targeted way. The most direct way to handle such problems is to use chemical agents for control, but the chemicals and spraying methods used for each pest and disease are different. Let's continue reading for the specific details.

1. Damping-off disease

Damping-off is a disease caused by fungi. This plant disease mainly harms the roots of globe amaranth. When it occurs, many irregular brown lesions appear on the roots. As time goes on, the color of the lesions becomes darker and darker, and they gradually spread, ultimately causing the globe amaranth to wither and die.

Control method: When dealing with this disease, we can choose to use a 400-600 times dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder to drench the roots of globe amaranth for control. Generally, root drenching is done once every 5-7 days, and after basically 2-3 times, it can recover.

2. Leaf spot disease

In pest and disease control for globe amaranth, leaf spot is a relatively common disease. This disease generally occurs in spring and autumn, so special attention must be paid at this time every year. Leaf spot, just like its name, mainly harms the leaves of globe amaranth. When it occurs, many round lesions appear on the leaves, and as time goes on they gradually spread, eventually causing the leaves to turn yellow and fall off.

Control method: When dealing with leaf spot, we can choose to use a 38% dimethomorph and cymoxanil plus copper preparation at 800-1000 times dilution for spray control. Generally, spraying is done once every 7-12 days, and after basically 1-2 times, it can be completely controlled.

3. Seedling blight disease

In pest and disease control for globe amaranth, seedling blight is also a relatively common disease. This disease mainly threatens globe amaranth seedlings. When infected, water-soaked lesions appear on the seedlings, gradually spread over time, and ultimately cause the seedlings to rot and die.

Control method: This disease spreads extremely quickly, so it must be dealt with promptly when discovered. If delayed too long, it becomes very difficult to treat. For control, we can use a 600 times dilution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder to spray the seedlings. Generally, spraying is done once every 7-10 days, and after 2-3 times, they can recover.

Care Measures for the Southern Plant Date Palm

Part One: "Compilation of Southern Plants"

Frangipani

Frangipani, its flowers really resemble eggs, milky white on the outside and bright yellow in the center, just like egg white and yolk, and they look really cute. Its branches are thick and fleshy. The leaves are also large, and the flowers and leaves cluster at the tips of the branches. Frangipani blooms brilliantly in summer, giving people a feeling of purity and elegant temperament, very suitable for careful appreciation. After the leaves fall, the bare trunk curves naturally, and its shape is quite beautiful. It is very suitable for planting in courtyards and lawns. Frangipani likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment with plenty of sunlight and good drainage. It is robust by nature and can tolerate drought, but it fears cold and waterlogging. It likes to grow in acidic soil, but it is also resistant to alkalinity. Cultivation is best in deep, fertile, well-aerated, organic-rich acidic sandy loam. Propagation uses the cutting method. When planting frangipani, attention must also be paid to pest and disease control. For example, if small brown spots appear on the leaves or even the leaves turn dark black, that is due to frangipani angular leaf spot, and at this time you must pay attention and take measures. Of course, there may also be other diseases, so frangipani needs your care and attention. In fact, besides white, frangipani also comes in red and yellow varieties, all of which can be used to extract essences for making high-grade cosmetics, soap and food additives, with quite high prices and great commercial development potential; the fresh flowers can also be dried for brewing tea, commonly known as frangipani tea, which has the effects of treating dysentery due to heat and moistening the lungs and detoxifying. The frangipani tree has a beautiful form, with many branches and strange, varied shapes; its leaves resemble loquat leaves, and after they fall in winter, semicircular leaf scars remain on the branches, much like antlers decorated with beautiful spots, making it arguably the top choice small tree for landscaping, courtyard arrangement and potted ornamental display in tropical regions. The bark is thin and grayish green, rich in toxic white sap, which can be used for external application to treat scabies, redness and swelling and other conditions. The wood is white, light and soft, and can be used to make musical instruments, tableware or furniture. Frangipani flower meaning: nurturing hope, resurrection, rebirth, as simple and ordinary as life itself, so it can always be so close to people, without distance.

Yulan Magnolia

Yulan magnolia is a tall deciduous tree, with dark gray bark that is rough and cracked; the twigs are slightly stout and grayish brown; the winter buds and flower stalks are densely covered with pale grayish-yellow long silky hairs. The leaves are papery, obovate, broadly obovate, or obovate-elliptic, with the base of vigorous shoots having elliptic leaves. Yulan magnolia flowers resemble lotus flowers; when in full bloom, the petals spread out in all directions, making the courtyard sheets of green and white, with dazzling white light, and they have high ornamental value; together with waves of delicate fragrance that refresh the heart, they are truly an ideal flower type for beautifying courtyards. Yulan magnolia likes light and is relatively cold-tolerant, and can overwinter in the open ground. It loves dryness and avoids low humidity; waterlogged planting sites easily cause root rot. It prefers fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic sandy soil, and can also grow in weakly alkaline soil. In the warmer south, it can bloom from December to January of the following year. Yulan magnolia has strong resistance to harmful gases. For example, if this flower is planted in a factory polluted by sulfur dioxide and chlorine gas, it has a certain resistance and sulfur-absorbing capacity. When fumigated artificially with sulfur dioxide, 1 kg of dry leaves can absorb more than 1.6 grams of sulfur. Therefore, Yulan magnolia is a very good pollution-resistant landscaping tree species for areas with atmospheric pollution. Yulan magnolia likes light; young trees are relatively shade-tolerant and cannot tolerate strong light or west-facing sun. Too much light or west-facing sun can easily scorch the trees. Yulan magnolia likes fertilizer. In addition to applying base fertilizer at planting, it should be fertilized every year thereafter. Sufficient fertilizer can make the plant grow vigorously, with lush green, thick leaves, not only many flower buds, but also large flowers, a long flowering period and rich fragrance. Yulan magnolia is a tree species with relatively strong disease resistance. Its main diseases include anthracnose, yellowing disease and leaf scorch. Besides ornamental value, Yulan magnolia also has medicinal and edible value. Yulan magnolia flowers contain volatile oils, mainly citral, clove oil acid and others, and also contain magnolia alkaloids, alkaloids, yulan magnolia extract, capric acid, rutin, oleic acid, vitamin A and other components, giving them certain medicinal value. Yulan magnolia flowers are pungent and warm in nature and flavor, and have the effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold, opening the orifices, and freeing the lungs and clearing the nose. They can be used for headache, blood-stasis-type dysmenorrhea, nasal congestion, acute and chronic sinusitis, allergic rhinitis and other conditions. Modern pharmacological research shows that Yulan magnolia flowers have an inhibitory effect on common skin fungi.

Yulan magnolia flowers are rich in vitamins, amino acids and various trace elements, and have the effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold, and regulating qi and the lungs. They can be processed into snacks or brewed as tea. The flower meaning of Yulan magnolia represents gratitude. Yulan magnolia often blooms large white flowers amid lush greenery, and with its fragrant scent it gives people an indescribable temperament, truly fresh and lovely. Because its tree is tall and its flowers are positioned high, swaying in the wind, full of spirit, like a heavenly maiden scattering flowers, it is very lovely.

Arrowroot

Arrowroot is a herbaceous plant. Most varieties have underground rhizomes or tubers, and the leaves are solitary, relatively large, ovate or ovate-lanceolate, with pinnate veins arranged in two rows, and entire margins. Arrowroot is a fairly good ground cover plant with diverse colors, and is a very good foliage plant. Arrowroot is a tropical plant that likes warm, humid and brightly lit environments, and is not cold-tolerant or drought-tolerant. It fears scorching sun; if exposed to direct sunlight, it will scorch the leaves, causing local scorching at the leaf edges, stopping the growth of new leaves, and turning the leaf color yellow, so shading must be noted during cultivation. Arrowroot is relatively sensitive to water; during the growing period it should be watered thoroughly to keep the potting soil moist, but the soil should not become waterlogged, otherwise it will cause root rot and even plant death. Arrowroot is somewhat "delicate." It requires enough careful attention 365 days a year; if there are a few days of major environmental fluctuation, it will leave "evidence of the crime" on the plant. This is the consensus of arrowroot seedling traders and producers. Arrowroot family plants do not have many pests and diseases, mainly scale insects, whiteflies and so on. Of course, it also has other value, such as medicinal value and dietary value. Arrowroot powder is almost entirely starch, contains no vitamins, and has a protein content of only 0.2%. It can be used as a thickener for soups, sauces, puddings and dessert pastries. Added to water and boiled, it becomes a transparent, odorless, pleasant paste. Arrowroot powder is fine in texture and, compared with other starches, can be cooked at lower temperatures and in shorter times, and is easy to digest, especially suitable for custards and other egg products that cannot be overcooked, and also suitable for making light, low-salt and low-protein foods. Effects: clears the lungs and stops cough, clears heat and promotes urination. Indications: used to treat cough due to lung heat and painful urination due to damp-heat in the bladder.

Red Loropetalum

Red loropetalum is an evergreen shrub or small tree. The bark is dark gray or light grayish brown, with many branches. The young branches are reddish brown and densely covered with stellate hairs. The leaves are leathery and alternate, ovate or elliptic, 2-5 cm long, with short pointed tips, rounded and oblique asymmetrical bases, stellate hairs on both sides, entire margins, and dark red color. Red loropetalum likes light and is slightly shade-tolerant, but in shade the leaf color easily turns green. It has strong adaptability and is drought-tolerant. It likes warmth and is cold-tolerant. It has strong sprouting and branching ability and is tolerant of pruning. It tolerates poor soil, but is suitable for growing in fertile, moist, slightly acidic soil. Red loropetalum has luxuriant branches and leaves, a graceful posture, is tolerant of pruning and wiring, and can be used for hedges or for making stump bonsai. In the flowering season, the whole tree is full of red flowers, extremely spectacular. Loropetalum is an evergreen plant, and its new leaves are bright red. Different strains differ in leaf color and flower color at maturity, and leaf size also differs. In garden applications, the main considerations are leaf color and leaf size, bringing about leaf color contrast and forming color contrast, and the flowering periods can also be staggered. Main pests: aphids, geometrid moths, yellow noctuid moths, black cutworm, large and small cutworms, and scarab beetles, etc. Common diseases of red loropetalum: anthracnose, damping-off, and mosaic disease. Anthracnose: mainly harms old leaves and basal leaves. Because the leaves themselves are red, the lesions appear

as black round spots, or nearly round, causing early leaf fall. It is serious in the rainy season from July to August. The pathogen is actinomycete fungus. The pathogen overwinters as mycelium on diseased leaves and is the primary infection source for the disease the following year. When you find disease on the branches and leaves of red loropetalum, you must treat it promptly.

Ornamental Peach

Ornamental peach is a variety of peach, a tree 3-8 m tall; the crown is broad and flat-spreading; the bark is dark reddish brown, rough and scale-like when old; the twigs are slender, hairless, glossy, green, turning red on the sunny side, with numerous small lenticels; the winter buds are conical, blunt at the tip, covered with short pubescence, often clustered 2-3 together, with a leaf bud in the middle and flower buds on both sides. The leaves are oblong-lanceolate, elliptic-lanceolate or obovate-lanceolate. Ornamental peach likes sunlight, is drought-tolerant, and does not tolerate humid environments. It likes a warm climate and has good cold tolerance, able to overwinter safely in a natural environment at minus 25°C. It requires fertile, well-drained soil. It dislikes water accumulation; if planted in low-lying waterlogged places, seedlings easily die. Garden value: ornamental peach flowers are large and colorful, beautiful when blooming, with an ornamental period as long as 15 days. In landscaping it is widely used by lakesides, streams, both sides of roads and parks, etc. In small greening projects such as courtyard greening accents and private gardens, it is also used for potted ornamental display, and is often used for cut flowers and making bonsai. There is also the common weeping ornamental peach. Ornamental peach has a wide range of landscaping uses and outstanding greening effects, showing particularly good results in the very year of planting. It can be planted in rows, in masses, or as specimens, and shows particularly good greening effects in the very year of planting. Ornamental peach is one of the commonly used colored nursery stock in landscaping, usually used together with purple-leaf plum, purple-leaf dwarf cherry and other nursery stock. Flowering shrubs are combined in plantings to create a scene of a hundred flowers blooming together. Besides ornamental value, it also has medicinal value. The gum secreted from the peach tree trunk, commonly known as peach gum, can be used as an adhesive, etc. It is a polysaccharide substance, and hydrolysis can produce arabinose, galactose, xylose, rhamnose, glucuronic acid and others. It is edible and also used medicinally, with the effects of breaking blood stasis, harmonizing blood and benefiting qi. Diseases and pests often occur in summer and autumn. Its main diseases include: white rust and brown rot, shot hole disease, anthracnose, gummosis, and leaf curl. The main pests include aphids, red spider mites, scale insects, and red-necked longhorn beetles, etc.

Artificial Plant Communities

1. Satsuki azalea + red loropetalum + Euonymus japonicus 'Aureo-variegatus' + thornless holly ball

These four plants have strong adaptability and are relatively widely planted in Fuzhou. Three foliage-color plants are planted linearly, giving rich leaf color, and together with large-specification thornless holly balls, they form a neat, full, clearly layered roadside greening color band effect.

2. Red loropetalum + red-leaf photinia ball + Michelia figo + Japanese maple

Red loropetalum itself is widely planted in Fujian and has good adaptability, and both its leaf color and flower color are very beautiful, while the old leaves of the red-leaf photinia ball are green, dotted with red new leaves, setting each other off beautifully. The four plants are combined with rich layers, forming a landscape road with vertical rhythm and spatial layers, and a strong sense of guidance.

3. Red loropetalum + Japanese aralia + Canary Island date palm + frangipani

In this combination of several plants, green is mainly dominant. The leaves are both small (red loropetalum) and large (Japanese aralia, frangipani), while the Canary Island date palm adds a touch of tropical flavor. The layers are rich, with the effect of reducing space, making people feel close.

4. Moso bamboo + iris

Moso bamboo is very suitable for planting in Fuzhou. It is a running bamboo, with spacing between the culms. Iris has a graceful posture and colorful, beautiful flowers. The two combined together are very charming.

5. Dwarf gardenia + red loropetalum + aucuba + osmanthus

Dwarf gardenia has leaves like sparrow tongues and a low plant form, and can serve as the lowest-layer plant. Aucuba leaves have yellow spots and it is a fairly good foliage plant, while the tree osmanthus has quiet, fragrant flowers that refresh the heart. The combination has spacing, changes in leaf color, and the addition of floral fragrance.

6. Azalea + red loropetalum + Fagraea ceilanica + canna

Azalea flowers are gorgeous, and with red loropetalum and Fagraea ceilanica as a foil, they are even more moving. Canna leaves are large, reducing space and making people feel close.

7. Ground cover lawn + marigold + red-leaf photinia + red loropetalum ball + orange osmanthus

With green ground cover as the base, marigold's bright yellow flowers are extremely beautiful. Behind the marigold, red loropetalum and red photinia serve as a foil, and the orange osmanthus has a spreading tree form. The several plants set each other off, with rich variation.

8. Dwarf lilyturf + guava tree

Both dwarf lilyturf and guava tree adapt very well in Fuzhou and grow normally. The leaves are fine and soft, making dwarf lilyturf very suitable as ground cover. The guava tree has yellow, smooth bark, a graceful posture, and relatively large leaves with spacing, making it very suitable for open woodland paths.

9. Lawn + silver-edged agave + pruned and shaped banyan + double-podded yellow-flowered cassia

With green lawn as the base, agave leaves are large, with silver-yellow and green alternating leaf color, and combined with pruned and shaped banyan they are very harmonious, while the double-podded yellow-flowered cassia has a beautiful posture and gorgeous flower color. This combination of several plants has rich layers and color variation that is nevertheless harmonious.

10. Liriope + broadleaf lady palm + areca palm + papaya tree

This plant arrangement is suitable for one side of a small building. Liriope leaves are fine and soft, while broadleaf lady palm and areca palm leaves are larger, and papaya leaves are large and palmate, with fruit borne on the trunk, and its posture is very graceful.

11. Copperleaf + Duranta erecta + red loropetalum

As a plant combination for a carpet flower bed, copperleaf has bright leaf color and serves as the edge, Duranta erecta has yellow-green leaf color, and red loropetalum has dark purple leaf color. The three plants combined as a carpet flower bed are extremely attractive.

Part Two: "Maintenance Plan 4"

Landscaping Maintenance and Management Plan

Maintenance management is very important in landscaping. It is long-term, repetitive work with relatively comprehensive technical requirements, including damage by people and animals, sanitation and cleaning, pruning of flowers, grasses and trees, watering and fertilizing, pest and disease control, flower bed planting and other contents. The completion of green space does not mean the completion of the landscape. People often say "three parts planting, seven parts management." Only with high-quality, high-level maintenance management can the landscape gradually take shape and become perfect.

Current characteristics of the plants in the park area:

1. The green area is about 245419 ten-thousand sq m, with a high greening coverage rate. There are large quantities of trees of different specifications and varieties and pruned and shaped shrubs, and the initial growth has gradually taken shape. After our careful investigation, the plant planting characteristics can be roughly divided into two areas according to the original master plan:

1) Plaza area: The plant planting style in this area is relatively open. The plaza is mainly planted in rows with ginkgo, zhennan and large trees,

appropriately combined with low shrubs, and the overall space is relatively transparent.

2) Factory area: The plant variety combinations in this area are complex, with large and small trees, shrubs and ground cover plants planted

in an interwoven manner. The entrance is mainly planted with relatively precious large plants (Canary Island date palm, jacaranda, small-leaf banyan stump,

top-grade osmanthus, etc.). Whether the office-area courtyard can still maintain its elegant, refined, spacious and grand

scenery, and whether the hotel villa-area courtyard can still carry forward its delicate, gentle, leisurely and relaxed atmosphere,

all depends on later maintenance and management.

2. From the greening conditions in the vertical area, we can find the following problems: 1) The shaped shrubs are not growing well and their shapes are monotonous; 2) The flowering shrubs are in poor tree vigor, and the flowering conditions (including the number of flowers, flower size, color, and secondary flowering) are unsatisfactory; 3) There are many weeds in the lawn, and in local areas the grass has a tendency to be overrun by gramineous weeds; 4) There are pest and disease problems.

I. We plan to take the following rectification measures:

1. Promote three-dimensional gardening and carry out varied shaping of hedges and shrubs. For the flowering shrubs planted as accents, take growth-promoting measures to encourage their growth and then shape them according to their form, which depends on the specific plant growth and plant shape. The hedges in local areas are highly regular, and the neat uniform strips undoubtedly make the courtyard, which should be free and leisurely, appear mechanical and rigid. We can likewise try pruning them into wave shapes, matching the relaxed and casual landscaping of the residential area, enlivening the atmosphere of the entire courtyard and also creating a smoother living environment.

2. Immediately begin pest and disease control. For plants showing pest and disease characteristics, immediately carry out large-scale chemical control.

3、

4、

5. For lawn weeds, apply chemical agents and increase the workload of manual removal. For different plants, implement different maintenance and management plans (mainly fertilizer supply: base fertilizer, topdressing, foliar fertilizer; different plants in different seasons all have different fertilization methods and fertilizer choices). Plant labeling. We classify and count all the plants, then make green labels indicating their

family, genus, species and growth habits, and label all the plants in the area. In this way, it can both

enrich employees' general knowledge of plants and add to the cultural atmosphere of the park, and with eye-catching labeling

bring more attention to the greening.

6. Greening maintenance is not a matter of a single day. While doing the rectification work well, we will likewise

adopt different maintenance and management measures for different plants at different times. We arrange our daily work by month

(detailed rules attached below), striving to make our work bring the landscape effect in the blueprint to the extreme, and

likewise ask Party A to offer more opinions, so that our work can gradually become more perfect and complete.

7. Maintenance responsibilities

Within the contracted maintenance period, our company, in accordance with landscaping maintenance operating procedures and landscaping maintenance quality standards, organizes reasonably, maintains carefully, and sends professional horticulturists to organize, guide and arrange the management and protection work, and flexibly dispatches no fewer than ____ experienced workers according to the weather in each season and plant growth conditions, to complete the maintenance management tasks with guaranteed quality and quantity.

VI. Maintenance content

1. Management procedures: including watering, making basins and earthing up, pruning, fertilizing, weeding, pruning and bud removal, pest and disease control, straightening, replanting (nursery stock fees charged separately) and the entire process. {Care Measures for the Southern Plant Date Palm}.

2. Management tools:

A. Flower shears, long shears, high-altitude shears, grass shovels, lawn mowers

B. Sprayers, buckets, wheelbarrows, bamboo baskets

C. Shovels, hoes, saws, electric saws, ladders

D. Fuel, repair costs

3. Maintenance content:

A. Trees: apply organic fertilizer once a year, 0.25 kg of cake fertilizer per plant, and topdress once, applying 0.1 kg of compound fertilizer mixed with urea per tree, using hole application and spraying, water-soluble fertilizer, etc., then cover with soil, water thoroughly, with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm, control pests and diseases in time, maintain the natural growth state of the trees without shaping pruning, promptly cut off yellow branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, shaded vigorous shoots, and drooping branches that obstruct vehicle passage, and promptly clean up the pruned material. Remove weeds around the tree roots once a week to ensure there are no weeds.

B. Shrubs, hedges, bagged seedlings: fertilize once every quarter, applying 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, using broadcast application and water-soluble fertilizer, etc., water once within three hours after application, water once a day (except on rainy days), with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm, control pests and diseases in time, for those pruned into round, square or conical shapes, do small pruning once a week and major pruning once a month, with smooth, beautiful cuts, promptly remove pruned material, promptly cut off dead branches and diseased and pest-infested branches, promptly replant old, diseased and dead plants, and remove weeds once a week.

C. Herbaceous types: fertilize once every quarter, applying 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, using broadcast application and water-soluble fertilizer, etc., water once within three hours after application, water once a day (except on rainy days), with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm, control pests and diseases in time, cut off spent flowers once a week, remove weeds once a week, and promptly cut off dead branches and yellow branches.

D. Taiwan grass: fertilize once every quarter, applying 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, with uniform fertilization and thorough watering, with water penetration depth of more than 5 cm, control pests and diseases in time, promptly replant wilted, dead and missing parts, with coverage rate above 98%, and prune 1-2 times per month.

(II) Specific annual landscaping maintenance work schedule:

January: the month with the lowest temperatures of the year; open-ground trees are in a dormant state.

1. Winter pruning: fully carry out shaping and pruning work on deciduous trees; prune dead branches, damaged branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and branches that interfere with overhead lines and buildings on large and small trees.

2. Street tree inspection: promptly inspect the tying and staking of street trees, and immediately rectify any loosened ties, wire embedded in bark, or unstable stakes.

3. Pest control: winter is a favorable season for eliminating garden pests. You can dig out the pupae and cocoons of stinging moths from the loose soil under the trees and burn them in a concentrated way. In mid-January, scale insects begin to become active, but at this time they move slowly, and we can adopt the method of scraping off the larvae on the tree trunks. Controlling pests in winter often yields twice the result with half the effort.

4. Green space maintenance: in green spaces, flower beds and other places, pay attention to removing large weeds; lawns should be weeded and edged in time; in green spaces, pay attention to antifreeze watering.

February: temperatures rise somewhat compared with last month, and trees are still in a dormant state.

1. Maintenance is basically the same as in January.

2. Pruning: continue pruning dead branches and diseased branches of large and small trees. Finish pruning all kinds of trees before the end of the month.

3. Pest control: continue to focus on preventing stinging moths and scale insects.

March: temperatures continue to rise; after mid-month, trees begin to sprout, and in late month some trees (such as camellias) bloom.

1. Tree planting: spring is a favorable time for planting trees. After the soil thaws, immediately seize the opportunity to plant trees. Before planting large and small trees, do planning and design well, dig (hoe) the tree pits in advance, and ensure digging, transporting, planting and watering are done as you go. When planting shrubs, also ensure digging, transporting and planting as you go, and water fully to improve the survival rate of nursery stock.

2. Spring irrigation: because spring is dry and windy with high evaporation, in order to prevent spring drought, water green spaces and other areas in time.

3. Fertilization: after the soil thaws, apply base fertilizer to plants and irrigate. {Care Measures for the Southern Plant Date Palm}.

4. Pest and disease control: this month is a critical time for pest and disease control. Some nursery stock has developed sooty mold, and the box tree leaf roller has also appeared (use pesticides such as fenitrothion for control). For controlling stinging moths, the method of digging out pupae can continue to be used.

April: temperatures continue to rise, and trees all sprout and bloom or unfold leaves and begin to enter a vigorous growth period.

1. Continue planting trees: in early April, seize the time to plant trees that sprout late, promptly remove and replant shrubs that died in winter (azaleas, red loropetalum, etc.), and water newly planted trees fully.

2. Irrigation: continue timely watering of maintained green spaces.

3. Fertilization: for lawns and shrubs, combine with irrigation and apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer as topdressing, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.

4. Pruning: cut off branches that dried up in winter and spring; evergreen hedges can be pruned.

5. Pest and disease control: (1) After the second molting, scale insects gradually move to bark cracks, tree holes, tree trunk bases, wall corners and other places, where they secrete white waxy thin cocoons and pupate. They can be swept away with a hard bamboo broom and then buried deep or soaked in a concentrated way. Or use pesticides such as fenitrothion for control. (2) Longhorn beetles begin to become active; a grafting knife or self-made steel wire can be used to remove the larvae, but the wounds should be as small as possible. (3) Control work for other pests and diseases.

6. Maintenance within green spaces: pay attention to removing weeds and climbing plants in large green spaces. Lawns should also be weeded and edged.

May: temperatures rise sharply, and trees grow rapidly.

1. Watering: during the peak leaf-unfolding period, trees have a very large water demand, so water in time.

2. Pruning: prune spent flowers. Carry out the first bud-removal pruning of street trees.

3. Pest and disease control: continue to focus on catching longhorn beetles. The first generation of stinging moths hatches, but has not yet reached a harmful level; make corresponding measures according to the actual situation in the maintenance area. Sooty mold caused by scale insects, aphids and others has also entered its peak occurrence period (on crape myrtle, Pittosporum tobira, oleander, etc.). In mid-to-late May, spray 10-20 times rosin mixture and 50% parathion emulsion at 1500-2000 times dilution to control diseases and kill pests. (Other pesticides such as insecticidal antibiotics and Huabao can also be used.)

June: temperatures are high

1. Watering: plants have a large water demand, so water in time and do not "leave it to heaven."

2. Fertilization: combine loosening the soil and weeding, fertilizing and watering to achieve the best results.

3. Pruning: continue bud removal and shoot removal work on street trees. Carry out pruning of hedges, balls and some flowering shrubs. {Care Measures for the Southern Plant Date Palm}.

4. Drainage work: during heavy rain, pay attention to drainage in low-lying areas.

5. Pest and disease control: In mid to late June, the slug moth enters its peak hatching period, and measures should be taken promptly. Currently, spraying with 50% fenitrothion emulsion at 500-800 times dilution is basically used. (Or compound BT emulsion can be sprayed.) Continue manual capture of longhorn beetles.

6. Do a good job of pre-flood and pre-typhoon inspection of trees; right, reinforce and re-tie loose or leaning trees.

July: Temperatures are highest, and after mid-month there will be strong winds and heavy rain.

1. Transplanting evergreen trees: During the rainy season, with sufficient moisture, conifers and bamboos can be transplanted, but pay attention to weather changes and water promptly when high temperatures occur.

2. Drainage: Drain promptly after heavy rain.

3. Topdressing: Apply quick-acting fertilizers such as nitrogen fertilizer dry before rain.

4. Street trees: Carry out typhoon-prevention bud removal and pruning; prune all branches that conflict with power lines, and check each tree stump one by one; if any are loose or unstable, right and tie them immediately. Prepare labor organization, materials, tools and equipment in advance, and assign personnel to inspect at any time, handling dangers promptly when found.

5. Pest and disease control: Continue controlling longhorn beetles and slug moths. For longhorn beetles, inject 50% fenitrothion at a 1:50 dilution (or Fruit Tree Treasure, or Yuanke No. 3), then seal the hole, which can also achieve good results. Camphor tree bagworms should be pruned out promptly, and the worm nests destroyed to prevent further damage.

August: Still the rainy season

1. Drainage: After heavy rain, drain low-lying waterlogged areas promptly.

2. Typhoon prevention for street trees: Continue doing a good job of typhoon prevention for street trees.

3. Pruning: In addition to general summer pruning of trees, carry out shaping pruning of hedges.

4. Cultivation and weeding: Weeds also grow vigorously, so weed promptly, and fertilizing can be combined with weeding.

5. Pest and disease control: Focus on capturing longhorn beetles, paying attention to capturing them at the roots. Aphid damage and camphor tree bagworms should be controlled promptly. In humid weather, pay attention to powdery mildew and rot, and take measures promptly. September: Temperatures decline somewhat; do relevant work to welcome National Day.

1. Pruning: In preparation for city appearance work, remove buds below the third fork of street trees. Shaping pruning of hedges. Weeding in green areas, edging of lawns, promptly clearing dead trees, so that trees have green branches and leaves and green areas are clean and tidy.

2. Fertilizing: For some trees that grow weakly and whose branches are not sufficiently full, apply some phosphorus and potassium fertilizer as topdressing.

3. Pest and disease control: Shot hole disease (cherry, peach, plum, etc.) is at its peak; use 500% carbendazim at 1000 times dilution to prevent infection. Longhorn beetles begin to move to the roots to cause damage; pay attention to capturing longhorn beetles at the roots. Also promptly control wood borers on poplar and willow. Do a good job of controlling other pests and diseases.

4. Before the holiday, do a good job of inspecting all kinds of landscaping facilities.

October: Temperatures drop; in late October early winter begins, trees start to shed leaves and gradually enter dormancy.

1. Prepare well for autumn tree planting; once cold-hardy trees shed their leaves in late October, planting can begin.

2. Green area maintenance: Promptly remove dead trees and water promptly. Do a good job of weeding and edging in green areas and lawns. Fertilize flowering plants that grow poorly.

3. Pest and disease control: Continue capturing longhorn beetles at the roots. Also pay attention to observing and controlling camphor tree bagworms. November: The soil begins to freeze at night and thaw by day, entering deep winter.

1. Tree planting: Continue planting cold-hardy plants, completing before the soil freezes.

2. Turning the soil: Turn the soil in green areas to expose pests preparing to overwinter.

3. Watering: Water dry, hardened soil, completing before the ground freezes.

4. Pest and disease control: Various pests prepare to overwinter in late November, so control tasks are relatively light.

December: Low temperatures; begin winter maintenance work.

1. Winter pruning: Prune some evergreen trees and shrubs.

2. Eliminate overwintering pests and diseases.

3. Prepare well for next year's adjustment work: After deciduous plants shed their leaves, observe the maintenance area and map out the positions to be adjusted.

VII. Green area maintenance quality objectives

1. Greening maintenance technical measures are complete and management is proper, achieving no exposed yellow soil.

2. Garden plants

2.1 Growth is normal. Various plants in newly built green areas reach normal form within three years; if plants or grass are damaged or die due to poor management, the replacement seedlings must survive within one year.

2.2 Garden trees have basically complete crowns, with main and lateral branches evenly distributed, appropriate in number, and reasonably pruned; the interior is not messy, with ventilation and light penetration. Flowering shrubs bloom promptly and normally, and are pruned promptly after flowering. Hedges and color blocks have normal branches and leaves, neat and uniform. Street trees have no missing plants, and there are no dead trees in green areas.

2.3 Deciduous trees have normal new shoot growth and normal leaf size and color. Under general conditions, yellow leaves, scorched leaves, curled leaves, and leaves with insect excrement or insect webs must not exceed 5%, and the retention rate of normal leaves is above 90%. Coniferous

Part Three: "Annual Greening Maintenance Plan"

Annual Greening Maintenance Plan

January

1. Carry out winter shaping and pruning of various deciduous trees, cutting off dead branches, overlapping branches, crossing branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and lower lateral branches, to ensure tree development tends to be reasonable, tree branch form is improved, and pest and disease breeding is reduced.

2. Appropriately thin out trees that are too densely growing, which can reduce pests and diseases and increase growth vigor.

3. Carry out winter plowing and soil turning to improve the soil, and apply winter fertilizer to all trees, ground cover and lawns to ensure the nutrient needs of seedlings and lawns.

4. Winter is a favorable season for eliminating garden pests. In the loose soil under trees, dig out slug moth pupae and cocoons and burn them in a concentrated manner.

5. As conditions require, scarify individual lawn types and prune 1-2 times. February

1. Carry out weeding, pruning and fertilizing of lawns.

2. Do a good job of pest and disease control, especially paying attention to powdery mildew on narrow-leaved mahonia and globular scale insects on coral and Japanese aralia.

3. In particular, strengthen frost protection and heat preservation measures for trees, and do a good job of loosening and mounding soil around tree roots.

4. Apply one topdressing (urea) to cool-season lawns at the end of the month at 10g/mu.

March

1. To prevent spring drought, water trees promptly.

2. Promptly mow lawns and remove weeds, and clean up winter grass in tree beds and flower beds.

3. Pest and disease control: Strengthen observation and inspection, and do a good job of forecasting, reporting and control. Pay special attention to sooty mold and boxwood leaf rollers. In mid-March, crape myrtle scale eggs hatch; from late March, pear rust occurs on crabapple and cool-season lawns; pay attention to prevention reports.

4. For local sunken or low-lying spots appearing in lawns, add soil and cover with sand; carry out low pruning of winter ryegrass lawns to ensure the sprouting and growth of the base grass.

April

1. Do a good job of loosening soil, weeding and pre-flowering fertilizing for field-planted flowers and trees. In particular, apply light fertilizer to herbaceous perennials and spring-sown flowering plants; for lawns and shrubs, combine with irrigation and apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer as topdressing, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.

2. Prune off branches that dried out in winter and spring; pruning of evergreen hedges can begin.

3. Pest and disease control: Mainly control aphids, sooty mold and beetles. Keep relevant records.

May

1. This month is the peak period for trees leafing out, with a large water requirement, so water promptly.

2. Prune spring flowering shrubs such as osmanthus and hall crabapple, and promptly carry out bud removal on plane trees, red-leaf plum, crape myrtle and other trees.

3. Weed flower beds and shrub color blocks. At the same time, carry out weeding of lawns and promptly prune lawn grass to control its height.

4. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, reporting and control.

June

1. Water plants promptly to ensure sufficient water supply.

2. Loosen soil and weed tree beds and color-block shrubs, and carry out weeding of lawns.

3. Prune lawns promptly and control their growth height, paying attention to controlling the occurrence of large-scale pests and diseases. Apply compound fertilizer once to lawns that grow poorly or lack fertilizer, so they can pass the summer safely.

4. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, reporting and control.

July

1. In high-temperature weather, especially ensure that watering of plants is carried out.

2. Loosen soil and weed flower beds and color-block shrubs, and at the same time do a good job of weeding ground cover. This month the weather is hot, with high temperatures and relatively high humidity; weeds grow fast, so seize the opportunity to weed and remove grass to prevent grass from running wild; continue cultivation, weeding and loosening the soil.

3. Earnestly do a good job of typhoon and flood prevention; reinforce and secure trees in the garden to prevent lodging; promptly dredge and drain low-lying or seriously waterlogged places.

4. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, reporting and control.

August

1. Carry out summer pruning of evergreen trees, and carry out shaping pruning of hedges.

2. Lawn weeds grow vigorously, so weed and prune promptly, control lawn height, and fertilizing can be combined with weeding. Promptly supplement and topdress fertilizer, mainly P and K fertilizer, combined with N fertilizer; for small seedlings, shrubs and herbaceous flowers, apply light fertilizer frequently, and at the same time pay attention to mastering the fertilization timing and climate.

3. In high-temperature weather, be sure to ensure daily watering and drought relief work; it must not be chosen between 10:00 and 15:00, to avoid burning seedlings. (Including: tree bed maintenance, weed control, soil loosening, etc.)

4. Continue doing a good job of typhoon and flood prevention; further reinforce and secure large trees in residential areas to prevent lodging; and promptly dredge and drain ditches in low-lying and water-prone places to prevent water from standing too long.

5. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, reporting and control.

September

1. Carry out shaping pruning of hedges. Weed green areas and promptly clear dead trees, so that trees have green branches and leaves and green areas are clean and tidy.

2. Thin out trees that are too densely growing, and at the same time carry out bud removal work.

3. Lawns should be pruned, edged and cleared of weeds promptly, and attention should be paid to pest and disease control.

4. Weed flower beds and color-block shrubs, and at the same time do a good job of weeding ground cover, and collect flower seeds.

5. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, reporting and control.

October

1. Prune spherical shrubs to ensure a beautiful appearance, neatness and distinct layers. Prune the tree form of evergreen trees so that their growth and development tend to be reasonable and their tree posture and appearance are improved.

2. Strengthen management of newly planted flowering plants, promptly fill bare gaps and water, and fertilize those growing poorly.

3. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting and reporting, actively control, and keep relevant records. November

1. Carry out thinning and pruning of evergreen trees and evergreen shrubs, mainly for ventilation and light penetration, reducing pests and diseases, and enhancing growth vigor.

2. Do a good job of weeding and edging in flower beds, color-block shrubs and green areas, promptly pull out weeds, and promptly replant bare gaps. As conditions require, adjust trees in the local layout, and some evergreen trees and a few deciduous tree species can be transplanted. Also begin cold protection and warmth work, for trees with

poor cold resistance, wrap with rice straw and mound soil.

3. Strengthen maintenance and management of newly planted plants, pay attention to prompt watering, and prune appropriately. Lawns should be scarified and aerated as conditions require, and pruned 2-3 times.

4. Carry out fertilizing work in late this month, and combine with increasing organic fertilizer to carry out soil turning in green areas.

5. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting and reporting, actively control, and keep relevant records. December

1. Do a good job of weeding and edging in color-block shrubs and green areas, and promptly pull out weeds.

2. Carry out thinning and pruning of evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs, mainly removing residual stumps and dead branches, to make next year's tree growth better (flowering shrubs that have formed flower buds must not be pruned), and at the same time pay attention to clearing insect cocoons on trunks and branches.

3. Wrap sago palms, date palms and other southern plants with straw rope to ensure they overwinter safely.

4. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting and reporting, actively control, and keep relevant records.

Part Four: "Latest Common Plants for Southern Landscapes"

Common Garden Plants for Southern Landscapes

Evergreen trees:

Norfolk Island pine, slash pine, Chinese fir, Caribbean pine, Chinese weeping cypress, mahogany, big-leaf mahogany, Sterculia lanceolata, Chinese saraca, sugar apple, longan, Dracontomelon duperreanum, Michelia macclurei, golden shower tree, Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, Fujian cypress, Buddhist pine, Japanese cedar, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus nagi), long-leaf podocarp, white champaca, southern magnolia, officinal magnolia, burmann cinnamon, camphor tree, cinnamon, Gmelina hainanensis, Hainan ormosia, Taiwan acacia, siamese senna, red camel's foot tree, camel's foot tree, butterfly tree, almond, mango, Ormosia henryi, water banyan, water stone banyan, avocado, blackboard tree, false betel nut, Chinese fan palm, fish-tail palm, queen palm, rose apple, Hainan rose apple, sapodilla, lemon-scented gum, Timor white gum, swamp mahogany, blue gum, cajeput, butterfly fruit, Chinese torreya, Chinese plum yew, Indian rubber fig, banyan, small-leaf banyan, large-fruited fig, weeping fig, yellow phoebe, bodhi tree, horsetail casuarina, jackfruit, camphor-leaf maple, tanbark oak, blue Japanese oak, candlenut, silk oak, sharp-leaf elaeocarpus, large-leaf elaeocarpus, mahoe, iron wintergreen, glossy privet, osmanthus, loquat, albizia, royal palm, jaggery palm, Washington palm, sugar palm, long-leaf date palm, bishop wood, rosewood, large-flowered dillenia, jackfruit, yellow cassia, tree jackfruit, large-leaf privet, Ledong Michelia, dwarf umbrella tree, Chinese heteropanax

Deciduous trees:

Indian almond, Chinese swamp cypress, water wintergreen, Chinese tallow tree, Japanese raisin tree, sand pear, soapberry, entire-leaf goldenrain tree, frangipani, bald cypress, pond cypress, Chinese tulip tree, white magnolia, Chinese parasol tree, sawtooth oak, cork oak, Chinese hackberry, Chinese elm, white oak, camptotheca, large-flowered crape myrtle, beautiful silk floss tree, flame tree, peacock flower, jacaranda, yellow cassia, chinaberry, Chinese mahogany, coral tree, cockspur coral tree, chestnut, silk tree, sweet acacia, Kalopanax septemlobus, sweetgum, weeping willow, Magnolia soulangeana, purple-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, Chinese quince, Indian

rosewood, red-leaf plum

Evergreen shrubs:

Sago palm, Chinese plum yew, orchid tree, large-leaf boxwood, dense-flowered oleaster, camellia sasanqua, sweet viburnum, gold-dust dracaena, St. John's wort, three-stamen areca, areca palm, qiong palm, four-season orchid tree, soft-branch allamanda, small-leaf justicia, red bottlebrush, Fukien tea, gardenia, crown of thorns, poinsettia, Yunnan jasmine, aucuba, Chinese holly, foreign rhododendron, shining dracaena, croton, red mulberry, golden-edged mulberry, golden-leaf fig, smooth senna, red-stemmed rhododendron, marlberry, orange jasmine, red-back eupatorium, eagle-claw flower, camellia, oil tea, large-leaf tea, oleander, yellow oleander, small-flowered allamanda, snow-in-summer, banana shrub, pittosporum, mahonia, nandina, Japanese aralia, night-blooming magnolia, hibiscus, lantern flower, azalea, Spanish bayonet, yucca, South China boxwood, axle palm, soft-leaf date palm, short-spike fish-tail palm, dwarf lady palm, bamboo palm,

golden banyan, fiddle-leaf fig, willow-leaf fig, golden-vein shrimp plant, dwarf umbrella tree, variegated Duranta, golden-leaf Duranta, Justicia, golden-leaf privet, elephant ear, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, snake plant, thick-leaf raphiolepis, variegated Chinese hibiscus, purple brocade, small-leaf boxwood, African jasmine, Brunfelsia, shrimp plant, crinum lily, spider lily, powderpuff, Chinese fringeflower, large-flowered angel's trumpet, white paper fan, red paper fan, hairy azalea, Western azalea, twin-pod senna, hard-stem trumpet vine, rose myrtle, ixora, Yunnan yellow jasmine, jasmine, fiddle-leaf coral, blue snowflower, blue star flower, butterfly, nandina, pepper tree, red-back eupatorium,

Deciduous shrubs:

Cotton rose, bridal wreath spirea, Reeves' spirea, modern rose, glossy abelia, pomegranate, beautyberry, purple magnolia, bush clover, Amur honeysuckle, Chinese snowball, rose of Sharon, redbud, dwarf flowering cherry, bridal wreath, pearl bush, butterfly tree, elderberry, fig, Sichuan pepper, trifoliate orange, butterfly bush, small wax

Vines:

Monstera deliciosa, bougainvillea, Millettia reticulata, flame vine, Rangoon creeper, three-leaf akebia, Japanese honeysuckle, wintercreeper, climbing fig, kiwi, creeping euonymus, Hong Kong rhaphidophora, Mucuna birdwoodiana, wax flower, pothos, star jasmine, Chinese ivy, English ivy, southern magnolia vine, Boston ivy, Chinese trumpet creeper, passionflower, multi-flowered crape myrtle, evergreen mucuna, large-flowered thunbergia

Eagle-claw flower, large-flowered thunbergia, Rangoon creeper, coral vine, Boston ivy, flame vine, white-flowered mucuna, beautiful clerodendrum, wisteria, climbing fig, cypress vine, morning glory, maple-leaf morning glory, snake vine, jasmine, large-flowered Dutchman's pipe, garlic vine, wood rose, Bignonia, passionflower

Bamboos:

Bambusa textilis, Bambusa chungii, moso bamboo, fernleaf bamboo, Phyllostachys glauca, golden-striped bamboo, Bambusa emeiensis, hedge bamboo, bitter bamboo, Indocalamus, Buddha belly bamboo, Dendrocalamus latiflorus, Bambusa textilis, Thai bamboo, Bambusa pervariabilis, square bamboo, green bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, Bambusa multiplex 'Alphonse Karr', red bamboo

Lawns and ground cover plants:

Bermuda grass, Chinese lawngrass, fine-leaf lawngrass, carpet grass, centipede grass, joint paspalum, Manila grass, Zoysia japonica, Guangdong evergreen, purple spiderwort, Moses-in-the-cradle, lilyturf, large-leaf curculigo, mountain lilyturf, lucky bamboo, Aspidistra, black-eyed Susan, Acorus gramineus, autumn zephyr lily, Chinese chive lily, golden spider lily, white butterfly, butterfly flower, red-flowered oxalis, inch plant,

purple-back arrowroot, arrowhead plant, white-butterfly arrowhead plant, pothos, inch plant, sword fern, clearweed, small Moses-in-the-cradle, peace lily, silver-edge lilyturf, red-flowered lantana, yellow-flowered lantana, purple-flowered lantana,

daisy, silver ragwort, glorybower, shrimp flower, firecracker plant, asparagus fern, beach evening primrose, beach morning glory, ivy, star jasmine, ginger lily, umbrella plant, papyrus, iris, purple loosestrife, narcissus, lotus, water lily, three-lobed wedelia, red-flowered oxalis, Brazilian peanut vine, dichondra, purple amaranth, round-leaf amaranth, coleus, fine-leaf verbena, red-green grass, autumn zephyr lily, Chinese chive lily, amaryllis, lily, calla lily, periwinkle, centipede grass, Manila grass, Korean velvetgrass, Bermuda grass, large-leaf carpet grass, variegated blunt grass, bahia grass, short-leaf lilyturf

Palm family:

Royal palm, Washington palm, triangle palm, king palm, foxtail palm, Butia palm, bottle palm, club palm, Mediterranean date palm, Canary Island date palm, Bismarck palm, oil palm, fishtail palm, palmetto, dragon-scale palm, Chinese fan palm, Queen palm, fishtail palm, Chinese fan palm, elegant palm, beautiful phoenix palm, short-spike fishtail palm, long-spike fishtail palm, areca palm, three-stamen betel nut, traveler's palm, bamboo palm,

Seasonal flowers

Star flower, African impatiens, four-season begonia, scarlet sage, petunia, hybrid dianthus, ornamental kale, French marigold, African marigold, nasturtium, pansy, wishbone flower, cockscomb, pot marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, moss rose, purslane, cosmos, cineraria, spider flower, daylily, lavender, purple loosestrife

Chapter Five: "Examples of Southern Plant Arrangements"

Southern Plant Arrangements

Split-leaf philodendron + umbrella plant + variegated galangal

Dracaena fragrans + rainbow dracaena + heavenly bamboo + Boston fern + landscape stone

Royal palm + fishtail palm + beautiful phoenix palm + canna + coleus + croton

Royal palm + Canary Island date palm crown + cordyline + red mulberry + ixora

Royal palm + Alexander palm + areca palm + large-leaf bamboo palm + golden leaf

Chapter Six: "Commonly Used Garden Plants in the South"

Commonly Used Plants for Southern Courtyards

I. Palm category:

1. Royal palm 2. Alexander palm 3. Washington palm 4. Silver date palm 5. Canary Island date palm 6. Three-stamen betel nut

7. Chinese fan palm 8. Elegant palm 9. Areca palm 10. Bamboo palm (fine-leaf bamboo palm) 11. Golden mountain palm 12. Soft-leaf date palm

II. Tree category (street trees, courtyard shade trees):

1. Flame tree 2. Kapok 3. Beautiful silk floss tree 4. Coral tree 5. Pointed-leaf elaeocarpus 6. Devil's tree

7. Fine-leaf banyan 8. Water stone banyan 9. Mango 10. Chinaberry 11. Cinnamon 12. Large-leaf trumpet vine

13. Red sandalwood 14. Frangipani 15. Tropical almond 16. Traveler's palm 17. Red-fruited screw pine 18. Autumn maple

19. Star fruit 20. Pointed-leaf olive 21. Golden shower tree 22. Albizia 23. Paperbark tree

24. Eucalyptus 25. Hainan rose apple 26. Large-leaf aphanamixis 27. Bauhinia 28. Mahogany

29. Mountain fig 30. Flame tree 31. Yellow-flower trumpet tree 32. Goldenrain tree

III. Flowering shrub category:

1. Four-season osmanthus 2. Fine-leaf bamboo 3. Tree fern 4. Yellow banyan 5. Bougainvillea

6. Yellow cassia 7. Red bottlebrush 8. Golden-edged sisal 9. Hibiscus 10. Fagraea 11. Variegated banyan

12. Hibiscus 13. Michelia 14. Trumpet vine 15. Beautyberry 16. Tabernaemontana 17. Dragon orchid

18. Furcraea 19. Yucca 20. Flame vine 21. Yellow oleander 22. Polyscias

IV. Ground cover or color blocks:

1. Pittosporum 2. Monstera 3. Pothos 4. Bird's nest fern 5. Red ruby 6. Large-leaf knotweed 7. Schefflera

8. Little angel 9. Golden leaf 10. Cigar flower 11. Fine-leaf frog orchid 12. Three-star arrowroot 13. Hairy azalea

14. Dwarf Chinese fan palm 15. Split-leaf philodendron 16. Variegated duranta 17. Spider lily 18. Tradescantia 19. Soft-branch allamanda

20. Variegated galangal 21. Asparagus fern 22. Golden peanut 23. Fine-leaf ixora 24. Boston fern 25. Yellow shrimp plant

26. White butterfly 27. Clearweed 28. Variegated dieffenbachia 29. Rainbow cordyline 30. Croton 31. Liriope

32. Silver-edge grass 33. Jasmine 34. Velvet arrowroot 35. Taiwan grass 36. Large-leaf carpet grass

37. Manila grass 38. Bermudagrass 39. Ryegrass 40. Tall fescue

There are also some commonly used plants:

1. Bodhi banyan 2. Mountain fig 3. Water stone banyan 4. Bell flower 5. National Day flower 6. Golden shower tree

7. Siamese senna 8. Sausage tree 9. Thai yellow large yellow flower ball 10. Golden Melaleuca

11. Winged senna 12. Dual-pod sophora 13. Daily cherry 14. Water banyan 15. Grey manglietia

16. Hainan sajin 17. Variegated money tree 18. Hainan red bean 19. Mahogany

20. Albizia 21. Sandalwood cinnamon 22. Autumn osmanthus 23. Laurel 24. Elegant palm 25. Fine-leaf bamboo

26. Indian yellow (purple) sandalwood 27. Red sandalwood 28. Dianella 29. Leizhou banyan 30. Cat-tail tree

Commonly Used Garden Plants in the South

1. Evergreen trees

Norfolk Island pine, Cunningham's araucaria, oil fir, large-leaf araucaria, kauri, Masson pine, slash pine, camphor tree, Japanese cinnamon, giant eucalyptus, paperbark tree, rose apple, Hainan rose apple, autumn maple, Taiwan acacia, pointed acacia, ear-pod acacia, red sandalwood, small-leaf banyan, large-leaf banyan, mountain fig, bird banyan, Indian rubber fig, variegated Indian rubber fig, bodhi tree, candlenut, mahogany, dillenia, devil's tree, tropical almond, small-leaf tropical almond, jackfruit, wax apple, human-face tree, sapodilla, chinaberry, casuarina, white magnolia, night-blooming magnolia, fire-power manglietia, small-leaf elaeocarpus, southern magnolia, sea hibiscus, mango, longan, lychee, olive, loquat, bayberry, pomelo, water stone banyan, Buddhist pine, dragon juniper, Buddhist bamboo, osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, michelia, orchid tree, camellia, weeping banyan, butterfly fruit, oblique-leaf banyan

2. Deciduous trees

Dawn redwood, pond cypress, bald cypress, Chinese swamp cypress, tulip tree, Chinese parasol tree, autumn maple, albizia, large-leaf albizia, silver albizia, sweetgum, weeping willow, sausage tree, anthocephalus, silver birch, hackberry, soapberry, Chinese pistache, chinaberry, Chinese tallow, tung tree, ginkgo, sterculia, persimmon, fig, mulberry, papaya, guava, red maple, acacia

3. Palm category

Alexander palm, royal palm, king palm, bottle palm, club palm, triangle palm, foxtail palm, queen palm, oil palm, sugar palm, large silk palm, Washington palm, Canary Island date palm, Mediterranean date palm, Iranian honey date, Chinese fan palm, fishtail palm, sugar palm, spiny date palm, soft-leaf date palm, three-stamen betel nut, green palm, fragrant palm, long-spike fishtail palm, short-spike fishtail palm, areca palm, palmetto, banana, traveler's palm, cordyline, bamboo palm, fine-leaf bamboo palm, Nicola bird of paradise, red-stem philodendron, false taro

4. Foliage shrubs

Golden-leaf weeping banyan, golden banyan, fiddle-leaf fig, willow-leaf fig, Garcinia, variegated reed bamboo, weeping polyalthia, red-fruited screw pine, pittosporum, variegated hibiscus, sago palm, red bottlebrush, woody night jasmine, cotinus, golden-vein justicia, Japanese fatsia, creeping juniper, variegated cassava, heavenly bamboo, schefflera, variegated schefflera, pepper tree, red-back excoecaria, red mulberry, Japanese lilac, duranta, variegated duranta, yellow-leaf duranta, orange jasmine, croton, halberd-leaf croton, Hainan croton, golden-spray croton, Gendarussa, Fukien tea, small-leaf boxwood, golden-leaf privet, crown of thorns, yellow-striped furcraea, agave, silver-edge agave, yucca, bottle palm, one-leaf orchid, snake plant, cactus, alocasia, split-leaf philodendron, monstera, variegated shell ginger, beach naupaka, thick-leaf rhaphiolepis, rainbow-breath plant, Ceylon phyllanthus, Chinese rose

5. Flowering shrubs

African jasmine, yesterday-today-and-tomorrow, rare jasmine, hibiscus, Chinese hibiscus, lantern flower, bell flower, poinsettia, beautyberry, bougainvillea, large-flower gardenia, hydrangea, red-bract flower, wild peony, red-flower loropetalum, large-flower datura, white paper fan, red paper fan, yellow allamanda, Western azalea, dual-pod senna, hard-stem trumpet vine, rose myrtle, ixora, phoenix-tail pearl, Yunnan yellow jasmine, jasmine, crinum lily,

spider lily, crab-claw flower, dwarf canna, stone flax, firecracker plant, blue snowflake, blue star flower, butterfly flower

6. Ground cover

Purple-back arrowroot, syngonium, white butterfly syngonium, pothos, tradescantia, Boston fern, clearweed, small mussel orchid, peace lily, liriope, silver-edge liriope, red-flower lantana, yellow-flower lantana, purple-flower lantana, silver-leaf chrysanthemum, clerodendrum, shrimp flower, firecracker red, asparagus fern, beach evening primrose, beach morning glory, ivy, star jasmine, ginger lily, umbrella plant, papyrus, iris, purple loosestrife, narcissus, lotus, water lily, tridentate wedelia, red-flower oxalis, Brazilian peanut vine, dichondra, purple amaranth, round-leaf alternanthera, coleus, fine-leaf verbena, red-green grass, autumn zephyr lily, Chinese chive orchid, amaryllis, lily, calla lily, periwinkle, centipede grass, Manila grass, Korean velvet grass, Bermuda grass, large-leaf carpet grass, variegated obtuse grass, bahia grass, short-leaf liriope

7. Vines

Large-flower duckbill vine, rangoon creeper, coral vine, Boston ivy, flame vine, white-flower mucuna, beautiful clerodendrum, wisteria, creeping fig, cypress vine, morning glory, maple-leaf morning glory, snake vine, jasmine, large-flower Dutchman's pipe, garlic vine, wood rose, cross vine, passionflower

Chapter Seven: "Document on Commonly Used Southern Plant Arrangements"

Practical Plant Arrangement Table — Concise Table of Common Plant Arrangements

Aquatic plants:

Wetland plants: Hankow willow, weeping willow, cotton willow, sand willow, wormwood willow, soap willow, small-leaf poplar, Liaoning poplar, sand cypress, Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, dawn redwood, chinaberry, Chinese wingnut, white ash, forsythia, elm, cut-leaf elm, Chinese elm, Chinese tallow, cherry blossom, eucommia, goldenrain tree, cotton rose, hibiscus, oleander, Boston ivy, grape, wisteria, false indigo, tamarisk, buttercup, water hyacinth buttercup, long-leaf alkali grass, marsh willow-leaf, willow-leaf herb, marsh woundwort, Chinese woundwort, mint, marsh weed, speedwell, watercress, Scirpus, water wool flower, flat-stem Scirpus, water nutgrass, flower-spike water nutgrass, globe-spike flat sedge, red-scale flat sedge, jointed rush, small-flower rush, small rush, fine rush, knotgrass, common knotweed, red knotweed, clustered knotweed, dock-leaf knotweed, willow-leaf thorn knotweed, small arrow-leaf knotweed, smartweed, thorn knotweed, halberd-leaf knotweed, large halberd-leaf knotweed, Japanese knotweed, cogon grass, calamagrostis, large-leaf grass, Beckmannia, long-awn clubhead, wild cockspur grass, silvergrass, job's tears, limpograss, wet-ground lettuce,

Emergent plants: water onion, reed, lotus root, arrowhead, broad-leaf pondweed, water plantain, lotus, purple loosestrife, cattail, duck-tongue grass, rain lily, sweet flag, pickerelweed, rice, mangrove, narcissus, water celery, wild rice stem, taro, four-leaf clover, reed, water chestnut, triangular bulrush, needle rush, water candle, umbrella sedge, broad-leaf cattail

Floating plants: duckweed, water hyacinth, water lily, fox nut, Victoria water lily, spatterdock, water hyacinth, water shield, water shield, yellow-flower bladderwort, floating fern, keel-petal water shield,

Submerged plants: hornwort, water plantain

Colorful-leaf plants:

Red or purple: sweetgum, lacquer tree, Japanese maple, trident maple, Oriental bittersweet, red oak, Tang maple, Chinese tallow, staghorn sumac, sumac, mountain ash, heavenly bamboo, winged euonymus, hawthorn, Chinese pistache, Chinese wingnut, barberry, Hubei hornbeam, Boston ivy

Golden yellow or yellow-brown: ginkgo, persimmon, goldenrain tree, tulip tree, Chinese parasol tree, elm, walnut, catalpa, dawn redwood, crape myrtle, Chinese elm, nanmu, wild jujube, kiwi, horse chestnut, water elm mountain ash, wintersweet, pomegranate, yellow cassia, witch hazel, soapberry, acacia

Aromatic plants:

Aromatic plants that can be planted in residential areas include: mint, basil, lemon balm, German chamomile, lemongrass, sage, dandelion, pot marigold, thyme, borage, scented geranium, mallow and other herbaceous plants; lavender, rosemary, gardenia, rose, lemon verbena and other shrubs.

Woody plants arranged to release fragrance in turn through the four seasons, such as: plum blossom and orange blossom in spring; gardenia and white magnolia in summer; osmanthus in autumn and wintersweet in winter.

Pollution-resistant and exhaust-gas-resistant plants: black locust, paulownia, lacebark pine, Chinese juniper, coral tree, photinia, pittosporum, Japanese fatsia, etc.

Nitrogen-fixing plants: Robinia, Lonicera, Albizia, false indigo, Caragana, Glycine, Lespedeza, Melilotus, Pisum, Phaseolus, Myrica, Elaeagnus, Cycas

Nectar-source, bird-attracting and butterfly-attracting plants: dwarf yew, Buddhist pine, Chinese torreya, Japanese holly, camphor tree, bayberry, privet, ternstroemia, viburnum, aucuba, mahonia, firethorn, boxwood, pittosporum, Japanese fatsia, etc.; butterfly bush, Chinese pistache, and other fragrant-flower plants (such as plants of the Citrus genus in the Rutaceae family)

Perennial (herbaceous) flowers: torch lily (red-hot poker), lupine, blue fescue, astilbe, coreopsis, golden creeping Jenny, oregano, large-flower hibiscus, red-flower mint, variegated star jasmine, thistle-leaved mesembryanthemum, hellebore, spider lily, daylily, iris, spiderwort, hosta, variegated canna, red-leaf canna, Dutch aster, large-flower gerbera, bletilla, perennial verbena

Four-season flowering trees:

Spring: various cherry blossoms (early cherry, late cherry, weeping cherry, etc.), various crabapples (Malus micromalus, Malus halliana, Malus spectabilis, etc.), Magnoliaceae (southern magnolia, white magnolia, Yulan magnolia, purple magnolia, red magnolia, michelia, Michelia maudiae, etc.), redbud, red-leaf

plum, peach blossom, camellia, winter jasmine, lilac, etc.

Summer: crape myrtle, hibiscus, hydrangea, michelia, summer azalea, pomegranate (flower), gardenia, trumpet vine, albizia, acacia. Autumn: osmanthus, crape myrtle, hibiscus, flowering pomegranate, cotton rose, trumpet vine, etc.

Winter: honeysuckle, heavenly bamboo, plum blossom, michelia, camellia, sasanqua, etc.

Classification diagram of common landscaping tree species:

(I) Evergreen conifers

1. Tree category: deodar cedar, Korean pine, black pine, dragon juniper, Masson pine, Chinese juniper, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Japanese cedar, Chinese torreya

2. Shrub category: (Buddhist pine), Platycladus orientalis, Chinese incense cedar, creeping juniper, Japanese cedar, five-needle pine

(II) Deciduous conifers (no shrubs):

Tree category: dawn redwood, golden larch, pond cypress, bald cypress

(III) Evergreen broadleaf trees:

1. Tree category: camphor tree, southern magnolia, privet, palmetto

2. Shrub category: coral tree, large-leaf euonymus, box-leaf euonymus, bird's-tongue euonymus, Chinese holly, orange tree, photinia, pittosporum, osmanthus, oleander, yellow jasmine, winter jasmine, golden-spray coral, heavenly bamboo, serissa, small-leaf privet, Japanese fatsia, gardenia, mosquito bush, camellia, hypericum, azalea, yucca (pineapple flower, arrow hemp), sago palm (iron tree), mahonia

(IV) Deciduous broadleaf trees:

1. Tree category: weeping willow, upright willow, Chinese wingnut, dragon-claw willow, Chinese tallow, pagoda tree, Chinese parasol tree (Chinese wu

tong), plane tree (French plane), pagoda tree (Chinese scholar tree), coiled pagoda tree, albizia, ginkgo, chinaberry (bitter chinaberry), catalpa

2. Shrub category: cherry blossom, white magnolia, peach blossom, wintersweet, crape myrtle, redbud, sumac, green maple, red-leaf plum, Malus spectabilis, bell-flower crabapple, hydrangea, lady's mantle hydrangea, forsythia (golden strip), cotton rose, hibiscus (hibiscus tree), mountain hemp stalk (cinnamon garden tree), pomegranate

(V) Bamboo category: Ci-xiao bamboo, bamboo, moso bamboo, purple bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, phoenix-tail bamboo, Buddha-belly bamboo, golden-bamboo-with-jasper

(VI) Vines: wisteria, star jasmine, Boston ivy (Boston ivy, climbing ivy), ivy, grape vine, climbing euonymus

(VII) Flowers: sun flower, everlasting chrysanthemum, scarlet sage, canna, five-color amaranth, kale (ball cabbage flower), chrysanthemum, orchid

(VIII) Lawn: velvet grass, zoysia grass, liriope grass, four-season green grass, tall fescue, Manila grass, clover, dichondra

Detailed Table of Common Plant Arrangements

Table of Common Street Trees

Name Scientific name Family Tree shape Characteristics

Camphor tree Cinnamomun camphcra Camphor family Spherical Evergreen large tree, leaves alternate, three-veined, doubly fragrant, berries spherical.

Plane tree Platanus x acerifolia Plane tree family Oval Prefers warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerant of pruning. Large crown with dense shade, suitable as street tree and courtyard shade tree.

Maple Liquidamdar formosana Hance. Witch hazel family Conical Deciduous tree, bark gray and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, beautiful tree form

Flame tree Delonix regia Raffin Caesalpiniaceae Umbrella-shaped Sun-loving, prefers warm hot climates, not cold-tolerant, fast-growing, pollution-resistant, wind-resistant; flowers red and beautiful, flowering period May to August

Albizia Albizia julibrissin Mimosa family Umbrella-shaped Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as courtyard ornamental tree, street tree

Acacia Albizia farnesiana Wild. Mimosa family Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, fast-growing, dense branches and leaves, flowers golden yellow, excellent tree vigor

Weeping willow Salix babylonica Linn. Willow family Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, suitable for low-temperature areas, grows luxuriantly and rapidly, beautiful tree form

Banyan Ficus retusa Linn.. Mulberry family Spherical Deciduous tree, broad crown, fast-growing, strong canopy density, suitable for various types of pruning

Camphor tree Cinnamomum camphora Ness. Laurel family Spherical Evergreen tree, broad crown, large and rounded, strong growth, beautiful tree form

Chinese fan palm Livitonia chinensis R.Br. Palm family Umbrella-shaped Single upright trunk, leaf surface dark green, strong growth, very beautiful posture

Longan tree Euphoria longana Lanark. Soapberry family Round Evergreen tree with round crown, strong canopy density, relatively slow growth, very beautiful posture

Chinaberry (chinaberry tree) Melia azedarach Linn. Meliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous tree, fast-growing, irregular crown, slightly umbrella-shaped, flowers light purple

Chinese parasol tree Sterculia platanifolia L. Sterculiaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, broad leaves, fast-growing, upright when young, crown spreading when old

Paper mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. Moraceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, leaves huge and soft-thin, branches scattered, umbrella-shaped crown, beautiful posture

Alder Alnus formosana Makino. Fagaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, tolerant of moisture and heat, unsuitable for dry land and hard soil, tall and beautiful tree form

Ash tree Faxinus insularis Hemsl. Oleaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, strong vigor, fast-growing, beautiful tree form and leaf shape. Norfolk Island pine Araucaria cuninghamii Araucariaceae Conical Evergreen conifer, sun-loving, prefers warm hot climates, not cold-tolerant, prefers fertilizer, fast-growing, narrow conical crown, beautiful posture

Qinghai spruce Picea carassifolia Pinaceae Tower-shaped Evergreen conifer, neutral, shallow-rooted, suitable for the northwest region

Korean pine Pinus koraiensis Pinaceae Tower-shaped Evergreen conifer, weakly sun-loving, prefers cold cool humid climates and acidic soil, needles blue-green

Chinese juniper (juniper) Sabina chinensis Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen conifer, sun-loving, saplings slightly shade-tolerant, drought and barren-tolerant, cold-tolerant, slightly moisture-tolerant, tolerant of pruning, good dust-proofing and sound-insulating effect

Southern magnolia Magnolia grandiflora L. Magnoliaceae Oval Evergreen tree, flowers large white and fragrant, beautiful tree form,

Acacia confusa Merr. (Acacia) Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, bark smooth when young, rough when old, trunk mostly curved, strong growth vigor

Phoenix dactylifera L. (Date Palm) Arecaceae Pinnate Evergreen broadleaf tree, trunk branching, strong heat resistance, robust growth, graceful form

Phoenix canariensis (Canary Island Date Palm) Arecaceae Pinnate Evergreen broadleaf tree, thick trunk, tall and majestic, dense and spreading pinnate leaves,

Roystonea regia H.B.K. (Royal Palm) Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single upright trunk, up to 18m tall, slightly swollen in the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, great ornamental value

Ginkgo biloba (Ginkgo) Ginkgoaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, yellow autumn leaves, cold-resistant, deep-rooted, intolerant of waterlogging, resistant to various toxic gases

Liriodendron chinense (Chinese Tulip Tree) Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm and humid climate, relatively strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, fast growth, long lifespan, leaf shape resembles a mandarin jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.

Populus tomentosa (Chinese White Poplar) Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers cool climate, pollution-resistant, deep-rooted, fast-growing, relatively long lifespan; neat tree form, straight trunk, gray-white bark

Populus nigra var. italica (Lombardy Poplar) Salicaceae Narrow cylindrical Deciduous broadleaf tree, cold-resistant and drought-tolerant, slightly tolerant of saline-alkali and waterlogging, fast growth

Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese Elm) Ulmaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm and humid climate, tolerant of drought and poor soil, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long lifespan, resistant to smoke and toxic gases, strong dust retention capacity

Acer negundo (Box Elder) Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers fertile soil and cool humid climate, tolerant of smoke and dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light saline-alkali, tolerant of pruning, yellow autumn leaves{Maintenance measures for the southern plant Date Palm}.

Table of Common Landscape Tree Characteristics

Name Scientific Name Family Tree Shape Characteristics

Cinnamomum camphora (Camphor Tree) Lauraceae Spherical Large evergreen tree, alternate leaves, triplinerved, aromatic, spherical berries.

Platanus x acerifolia (London Plane) Platanaceae Oval Prefers warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerant of pruning. Large crown with dense shade, suitable as street tree and shade tree.

Magnolia grandiflora L. (Southern Magnolia) Magnoliaceae Oval Evergreen tree, large white fragrant flowers, beautiful tree form,

Magnolia denudata (Yulan Magnolia) Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Fairly cold-resistant, afraid of waterlogging. Large pure white flowers, blooms in March to April. Suitable for garden viewing.

Liriodendron chinense (Chinese Tulip Tree) Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm and humid climate, relatively strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, fast growth, long lifespan, leaf shape resembles a mandarin jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.

Thuja orientalis Linn (Chinese Arborvitae) Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen tree, neat tree form when young, mostly curved when old, strong growth, long lifespan, beautiful tree form

Fraxinus insularis Hemsl. (Island Ash) Oleaceae Round Evergreen tree, robust, fast-growing, beautiful tree form and leaf shape Bischofia javanica Blanco (Bishop Wood) Euphorbiaceae Round Evergreen tree, very beautiful when young leaves sprout, robust growth, beautiful tree form

Salix babylonica Linn. (Weeping Willow) Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous small tree, suitable for low-lying wet areas, lush and fast growth, beautiful tree form

Calocedrus macrolepis Kurz (Chinese Incense Cedar) Cupressaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, bark gray-brown, irregularly longitudinally fissured; branchlets alternate, green when young, flattened.

Roystonea regia (Royal Palm) Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single upright trunk, up to 18m tall, slightly swollen in the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, great ornamental value

Euonymus japonicus (Japanese Spindle) Celastraceae Oval Prefers warm and humid climate, resistant to toxic gases. Grown for foliage. Suitable for hedges and foundation planting.

Liquidambar formosana Hance. (Formosan Sweetgum) Hamamelidaceae Conical Deciduous tree, bark gray and smooth, leaves triangular, slow growth, beautiful tree form

Pterocarya stenoptera (Chinese Wingnut) Juglandaceae Umbrella-shaped Strong adaptability, tolerant of waterlogging, fast-growing. Suitable as shade tree, street tree, bank-protection tree

Sabina procumbens (Creeping Juniper) Cupressaceae Evergreen creeping dwarf shrub, branches sprawling along the ground, leaves needle-like. Slow growth, unique tree form, fresh green and smooth foliage. Suitable for ground cover and beautification around courtyard stones, ponds, sand pits, slopes, etc.{Maintenance measures for the southern plant Date Palm}.

Duranta repens (Golden Dewdrop) Verbenaceae Round Evergreen shrub. Suitable for large potted plants, flower troughs, hedges. Golden Dewdrop is mainly grown for foliage, widely used, can be used as ground cover, pruned into shapes, forming patterns or emphasized in color planting, dazzling and eye-catching. Ilex cornuta (Chinese Holly) Aquifoliaceae Round Resistant to toxic gases, slow growth. Green leaves and red berries, very beautiful. Suitable for foundation planting. Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. (Paper Mulberry) Moraceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, leaves huge and soft-thin, branches spreading in all directions, graceful form

Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese Elm) Ulmaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm and humid climate, tolerant of drought and poor soil, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long lifespan, resistant to smoke and toxic gases, strong dust retention capacity

Juniperus chinensis Linn (Chinese Juniper) Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen medium tree, densely arranged branches, dark green, robust growth, suitable for pruning, beautiful tree form

Pittosporum tobira (Japanese Pittosporum) Pittosporaceae Round White fragrant flowers, blooms in May. Suitable for foundation planting, as hedge or potted plant. Phoenix dactylifera Linn (Date Palm) Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk tillering, up to 20-25m tall, leaves gray-white with arched curvature, robust growth, beautiful tree form

Salix matsudana (Hankow Willow) Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Suitable as shade tree, street tree, bank-protection tree

Albizia julibrissin (Silk Tree) Mimosaceae Umbrella-shaped Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as shade ornamental tree, street tree

Pinus thunbergii Parl. (Japanese Black Pine) Pinaceae Conical Evergreen tree, bark gray-brown, branchlets orange-yellow, needles hard in pairs, long lifespan

Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea (Purple-leaf Plum) Rosaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous small tree, branchlets smooth, red-brown, leaves ovate, entirely purple-red, pale pink small flowers in April, drupe purple. Suitable for both specimen and group planting, as a foil background.

Washingtonia filifera Wend. (California Fan Palm) Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single cylindrical trunk, swollen at the base, up to 4-8m tall, leaf blade fan-shaped and round, robust growth, beautiful tree form{Maintenance measures for the southern plant Date Palm}.

Sophora japonica (Japanese Pagoda Tree) Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Dense branches and leaves, broad crown, suitable as shade tree, street tree

Cassia glauca Lam. (Glaucous Cassia) Fabaceae Round Deciduous tree, even-pinnate compound leaves, yellow flowers, fast growth, beautiful tree form

Acer negundo (Box Elder) Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers fertile soil and cool humid climate, tolerant of smoke and dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light saline-alkali, tolerant of pruning, yellow autumn leaves

Acer palmatum (Japanese Maple) Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Elegant leaf shape, red autumn leaves. Suitable for garden viewing and potted cultivation.

Pseudolarix amabilis Rehd. (Golden Larch) Pinaceae Oval pagoda-shaped Evergreen tree, branches and leaves well-spaced, leaves linear, alternate on long shoots, small leaves radiating, tree form sturdy and upright.

Hyophorbe amaricaulis Mart. (Bottle Palm) Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk about 3 m tall, base oval and swollen, forming a bottle shape, very beautiful form

Citrus reticulata (Mandarin Orange) Rutaceae Round Flowers white, fruit yellow-green, fragrant. Suitable for group planting.

Melia azedarach Linn. (Chinaberry) Meliaceae Round Deciduous tree, bark gray-brown, bipinnate odd-pinnate compound leaves, purple flowers, fast growth

Serissa serissoides (Snowbush) Rubiaceae Round Evergreen small shrub. Dark green leaves, snow-white flowers, slightly pale pink. Delicate branches and leaves, good texture, suitable for potted plants, low hedges, ground cover, flower beds, pruning and shaping.

Juniperus chinensis var. Kaizuca, Hort (Dragon Juniper) Cupressaceae Upright pagoda-shaped Evergreen medium tree, densely arranged branches, dark green, robust growth, very long lifespan, very beautiful tree form

Sophora japonica cv. Pendula (Weeping Pagoda Tree) Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches drooping, suitable for garden viewing, opposite or row planting

Salix matsudana cv. Tortuosa (Corkscrew Willow) Salicaceae Round Branches twisted like a dragon, suitable as shade tree, ornamental tree

Phoenix roebelenii Brien. (Pygmy Date Palm) Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk upright, 2m tall, petioles thin and small, leaflets alternate or opposite, an excellent variety with beautiful leaves

Podocarpus macrophyllus D. Don (Buddhist Pine) Podocarpaceae Long conical Evergreen tree, simple and elegant posture, can be pruned as premium bonsai material, or shaped into round, conical, layered forms for garden landscaping and beautification.

Pinus massoniana Lamb. (Masson Pine) Pinaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, trunk bark red-brown, winter buds brown, majestic posture when mature

Nandina domestica (Sacred Bamboo) Berberidaceae Umbrella-shaped Elegant branches and leaves, red berries in autumn and winter; garden viewing, can be group planted or potted. Araucaria excelsa Br. (Norfolk Island Pine) Araucariaceae Conical Evergreen coniferous tree, branches whorled, lower ones drooping, leaves dark green, beautiful tree form, robust growth

Ligustrum lucidum (Chinese Privet) Oleaceae Oval Flowers white, blooms in June. Suitable as hedge or street tree.

Livistona chinensis R. Br. (Chinese Fan Palm) Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk upright, can reach 6-12m tall, leaves round, petiole margins spiny, lush growth, elegant posture

Juniperus chinensis cv. Globosa (Dwarf Japanese Garden Juniper) Cupressaceae Broad round Shrub, no main trunk, branches clustered.

Acer serrulatum (Taiwan Maple) Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped conical Deciduous tree. Trunk upright. Graceful and soft tree form, can be trained into noble bonsai, an elegant street tree, landscape tree, forest bathing tree.

Buxus bodinieri (Bodinier's Box) Buxaceae Oval Dense branches and leaves, suitable for garden viewing. Can be group planted, used as hedge or potted. Cryptomeria japonica D. Don (Japanese Cedar) Taxodiaceae Conical, oval, round Evergreen tree. Branches whorled, graceful

Chapter Eight: "Cultivation and Maintenance of Arecaceae Plants"

Arecaceae is a very distinctive group of evergreen plants in the monocotyledon class, with stems single or clustered, upright or climbing; leaves clustered at the top of the stem, well-developed root system, tolerant of drought, tolerant of poor soil, strong resistance to pests and diseases, outstanding for creating tropical-style garden landscapes. This section will introduce their introduction, transplanting and disease control.

Introduction to the Introduction Process

There are 183 genera and about 2,400 species of Arecaceae plants worldwide, widely distributed in tropical and subtropical humid regions of the world. High temperature and high humidity are important conditions for the normal growth and development of most palm plants. A few palm plants have unique adaptability to adverse environments, such as the Silver Date Palm (wild date palm) distributed in extremely arid areas at the edge of deserts, and quite a few palm species that can tolerate long-term water immersion, such as the Swamp Palm. Most palm plants are rich in fiber, with tough stems and well-developed root systems, possessing strong wind resistance, such as the Alexander Palm and Chinese Fan Palm.

Since the 1940s, in the construction of numerous tropical and subtropical cities worldwide, the landscape value of palm plants has been recognized, and they have been used as key species for urban greening and beautification, such as in Miami in the United States, Jakarta in India, Bangkok in Thailand, as well as Cape Town in South Africa and Singapore.

Some landscaping companies in Guangdong began the work of introducing and applying palm plants since the early 1980s. Over the following two decades and more, southern provinces and regions such as Guangxi, Fujian and Yunnan, as well as later Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shanghai, Chongqing and Yunnan, successively set off a boom in introducing, producing and applying palms.

Led by Guangdong Palm Landscape Company, several units, based on plant geography and ecology theories, through observational research on the growth conditions and mortality rates of introduced and acclimatized Arecaceae plants, found that plants native to the Northern Hemisphere generally have cold resistance potential because they experienced ancient glacial climates, while species native to high latitudes and high altitudes of the Southern Hemisphere also have relatively strong cold resistance. Through research on the cold resistance and cold resistance mechanisms of palm plants, researchers found that the main factors affecting introduction and acclimatization are: temperature, light, humidity, water and soil. The most significant effect of the temperature factor is governing plant growth and development; low winter temperatures are the leading factor affecting the success or failure of palm plant introduction and acclimatization; through research on palm salt tolerance and shade tolerance, researchers screened out a batch of varieties with strong saline-alkali tolerance and shade tolerance; meanwhile, through the control of pests and diseases such as palm Phytophthora blight, coconut leaf beetle, and red palm weevil, the incidence of palm pests and diseases was greatly reduced. In addition, researchers also studied the mechanism of palm seed germination, summarized and invented palm seed germination acceleration technology, mastered whole-crown transplanting and large-specification container seedling cultivation techniques for palm plants, and did fruitful work on soil improvement, winter cold protection and preservation techniques.

At present, researchers have screened and promoted about 80 species of palm plants in South China, including Royal Palm, Chinese Fan Palm, Broadleaf Lady Palm, South Palm, Fishtail Palm, etc.; in Shanghai and surrounding areas, the successfully applied Arecaceae plants mainly include Butia capitata, Mexican Washingtonia, Canary Island Date Palm, Washington Palm and more than ten other species, and the related research technology has been appraised by experts as reaching the world's advanced level.

Taking Washington Palm as an example

On the Occurrence and Control of Phytophthora Blight

Damage and General Symptoms of Palm Phytophthora Blight

This disease often occurs and causes damage on Royal Palm, Chinese Fan Palm, Washington Palm, Mexican Fan Palm, Canary Island Date Palm and other palm plants. The heart leaves of affected plants cannot emerge normally, new leaves shrink and dry up, and in severe cases the whole plant withers in patches. The pathogen of Phytophthora blight is caused by Phytophthora, which can be identified by culture in an incubator. The pathogen mainly overwinters in soil or on diseased plant residues. The bacteria spread through watering, rain splashing, air movement, etc.

Occurrence Pattern of Washington Palm Phytophthora Blight

This disease occurs during high temperature and high humidity periods in summer and autumn. Drought followed by rain, or poor management after transplanting, such as heavy watering, soil moisture content

suddenly increasing, poor ventilation, or plants located at wind gaps, are prone to infection. The disease is severe in low-lying, poorly drained, continuous cropping plots. In addition, the disease is often related to severe root damage caused during seedling digging and long-distance transport.

When it occurs, the base of the unexpanded young heart leaf rots, the leaf turns gray-green and droops, and it can be pulled out with slight force. Dissecting the stem, the growth point or even the entire center of the plant shows mushy secretions with a foul odor, and white mold-like substances can grow on the affected tissue. Severely affected plants often also show root damage, with the main symptoms being blackened, rotted roots with an unusual

odor. This disease mainly occurs at the seedling stage and in nurseries; adult trees planted in green spaces are less affected.

Symptoms

In recent years, damage has been relatively severe in nursery areas. In the early stage of disease, yellow-brown water-soaked lesions first appear near the ground, the lesions rapidly expand and are slightly sunken, and when moist the surface is densely covered with white cottony mold, and the diseased part rots and smells bad. When it occurs on leaves, the diseased part is yellow-brown, and white mold grows under moist conditions. When it occurs on stems, it is initially dark green, then expands, becomes moist and soft, and in the later stage the upper part shows withering. This disease can harm the entire palm plant. Sometimes pus-like liquid exudes when roots and stems are cut open, and in severe cases the margins of young leaf veins carry large amounts of gray-black mycelium. Phytophthora blight is a vascular bundle disease; in severe cases the entire plant wilts and droops, dries up, and eventually dies, with a high mortality rate.

According to surveys, the peak period of this disease is mostly during high temperature and high humidity periods, that is, the optimum temperature is 27°C to 35°C. For example, in 2006, the disease period in the coastal areas near the Pearl River Delta was July to October, in Xiamen August to November, in Shanghai June to September (also occurring in early spring), and in the mountainous areas of western Pearl River Delta August to November, but in all areas the disease can be seen within 1 to 2 months after typhoons and rainstorms, sometimes occurring sporadically, sometimes appearing in patches.

Control Methods

I. Preventive Cultivation Measures

1. Pay attention to ventilation, dryness and drainage in the nursery. Prune leaves moderately each autumn and winter, and dig trenches and earth up the planting site to keep the nursery dry. Usually increase potassium fertilizer application, and also apply quicklime and superphosphate separately, to enhance plant tissue density and resistance to infection, and improve plant disease resistance.

2. Choose a good plot; select loam or sandy loam plots with high terrain and good drainage for planting.

3. Implement crop rotation; plots where Washington Palm has been planted require a rotation of three to four years or more.

4. Strengthen field management, increase organic fertilizer application, promote robust plant growth with deep roots and lush leaves, and improve resistance. Implement high ridge (bed) cultivation. Appropriately control watering during the rainy season, drain promptly after rain so that the ground dries after rain; water promptly during drought, strictly prohibiting flood irrigation, and do it in the afternoon or evening on sunny days.

5. Achieve prevention first, integrated control. Observe regularly, frequently prune dead branches and fallen leaves, and when diseased plants are found, clean them up promptly, bury them deeply or burn them, and disinfect the disease holes with lime.

II. Chemical Control

One to two months before the onset of disease in summer and during the disease period, use 64% Sandofan wettable powder (1:500 to 600), 80% Fosetyl-Al (1:400), or other hymexazol types such as Kamyitong, i.e. hydroxyisoxazole (usual dosage 600 to 700 times), lime-sulfur mixture (1:1:100), Dexon (500 times), etc. for control. Specific control method: when transplanting Washington Palm, first spray the planting site and Washington Palm roots with 600 to 700 times hydroxyisoxazole solution, or on consecutive sunny days first dig pits and expose them to the sun for sterilization, or spread lime powder for disinfection, or use 500 times Dexon solution for soil disinfection.

After a typhoon, promptly spray Sandofan (better) or Fosetyl-Al (prone to resistance), adding 0.4% washing powder, pouring into the heart or spraying for both prevention and treatment. 80% Mancozeb 700 times solution can also be sprayed, once every 7 to 10 days, spraying two or three times in succession, which can effectively prevent and control the occurrence of Phytophthora blight. After adopting this measure, the incidence rate of Washington Palm and Mexican Washingtonia at the Shanghai base of Guangdong Palm Landscape Company has dropped from 20% in 2004 to below 10%.

Control Experience

The control effect of using carbendazim etc. is not obvious. If all leaves are cut off in the early stage of disease and the plant is transplanted elsewhere, about 30% can successively revive after 2 to 3 years, but the growth is poor.

It is understood that this disease rarely occurs in high-temperature dry areas such as Los Angeles, so this disease is related to high temperature and high humidity, and the infection route is through surface water, groundwater and rainwater, etc. When plant roots, trunks, leaves, etc. are damaged, the pathogen invades and multiplies massively when water is sufficient, ultimately causing blockage of the vascular transport tissue, and the plant wilts and dies from water loss. Heart rot disease introduced in some literature is actually also Phytophthora blight, only occurring at the heart leaf site.

This disease is different from anthracnose, which occurs on leaves, with water-soaked small spots appearing at onset, then expanding into larger lesions, easily discovered, and generally controllable with agents such as carbendazim. As for leaf spot disease, it refers to diseases occurring on leaves, with common pathogens being Phyllosticta, Pestalotia, etc., often causing leaf blight, but anthracnose and leaf spot disease rarely cause plant death. Transplanting Techniques for Single-trunk Large Seedlings

Preparation Before Transplanting

1. Root pruning should be done in advance for seedlings to be transplanted. After root pruning, the soil ball size should be twice the ground diameter, and the root pruning depth should be 50 cm to 60 cm. Stones and broken roots should be removed from the root-pruned soil and it should be backfilled promptly, with good moisture retention: the purpose is to exercise the seedling's adaptability and promote new root growth. After root pruning, it is best to keep for more than 30 days, and transplant only when new roots begin to sprout. If heeled-in seedlings are used, the effect is even better.

2. Dig holes and prepare the soil. Dig holes 20 days before transplanting at the planting site, with hole specifications generally 1.5 times the soil ball. Let the soil from the holes be exposed to the sun in the open air for a period, and the backfill soil is best a pre-prepared mixed soil: pond mud + farmyard manure or mushroom soil + appropriate amount of decomposed phosphate fertilizer + appropriate amount of river sand, with sand:soil at 4:6.

Planting Time

In the Pearl River Delta region, transplanting can be done year-round, with spring and autumn being the best, trying to avoid summer and winter, especially January and July. Most Arecaceae plants prefer warmth and humidity; summer temperatures are high, seedlings evaporate water quickly, easily causing excessive water loss that affects survival; winter temperatures are low, with frost in some places, and strong north winds easily cause frostbite or even death of seedlings.

Moving Seedlings

Some single-trunk Arecaceae large seedlings have relatively thick stems, the workload of moving seedlings is large, and seedlings are very easily injured. Therefore, when moving seedlings, the trunk should be wrapped with burlap sacks or rice straw, especially the green wrapped trunk portion at the boundary between trunk and petiole. First, to protect the trunk, second, to retain moisture and block the sun. In addition, when lifting seedlings, combine with leaf pruning, remove old leaves, and retain 40% to 45% of the leaves (specifically depending on tree vigor). At the same time, cut off the leaf together with the petiole by 1/5, to minimize water evaporation.

Planting

Seedlings are best dug and planted the same day; if the time is too long, the seedlings evaporate a lot of water and are prone to water loss affecting survival. If they cannot all be planted the same day, cover them with shade netting and spray a small amount of water on the leaf surface daily, doing well in shading and moisture retention.

1. Backfilling soil Once the seedling is positioned, backfill the soil. When the backfill reaches half the height of the soil ball, first compact the loose soil. After backfilling is complete, shape the earth mound into a "water storage basin" with slightly higher surroundings and a slightly lower middle, to facilitate watering and moisture retention.

2. Watering Water thoroughly with the settling water immediately after backfilling. Before watering, first use bamboo poles etc. to poke the loose soil around the soil ball firmly, until the loose soil no longer sinks.

3. Fixing There are many kinds of supports; using three bamboo poles to form a triangular support is the most economical and practical. The tying height is at 2/3 of the trunk.

Post-planting Management

1. Moisture retention Spray the leaves and trunk wrapping twice daily, except on rainy days, to the extent of wetting the leaves and trunk wrapping. Do not water at the roots, because excess water will flow down and accumulate, causing root rot. Cover the area around the tree base with rice straw to block the sun, prevent soil compaction caused by excessive soil temperature differences, and keep the soil around the soil ball loose, moist and aerated, facilitating new root sprouting.

2. Wind protection Because transplanted single-trunk palm large seedlings are generally taller, and are often affected by thunderstorms and strong winds after transplanting, the supports should be checked regularly after planting for looseness; especially after strong winds, if the trunk is found to be leaning, it should be straightened and re-tied promptly.

3. Topdressing About one month after planting, urea water can be used as foliar topdressing, sprayed, with topdressing about once every half month. After the first new leaf grows and matures, use fully decomposed peanut bran for hole fertilization. Dig the holes beyond the edge of the soil ball in a ring-shaped trench, with trench width and depth each 30 cm, and the fertilizer must be mixed evenly with the backfill soil.

4. Pest and disease control Newly transplanted single-trunk Arecaceae large seedlings are relatively weak in tree vigor and highly susceptible to pests and diseases, especially tender leaves and heart leaves. For insect control, 5% methamidophos plus 5% omethoate can be applied. At present, the invasive pest "coconut leaf beetle" is quite harmful to Arecaceae plants; adults and larvae gather in the overlapping spaces of unexpanded heart leaves to gnaw on leaf tissue, causing some or all of the newly emerged leaves to die, and affected plants grow slowly or even die. Control methods include the following: (1) 81% malathion emulsifiable concentrate 1000 times solution; (2) cypermethrin 500 times solution; (3) use "Yejiaqing", all of which can achieve good control effects. Based on actual operation, the author believes the simplest, most convenient and longest-lasting method is to hang a "Yejiaqing" packet on the heart leaf combined with tying during planting for control.

For single-trunk Arecaceae large seedlings, about one month after planting, whether they have survived can be roughly determined based on whether the leaves remain green, but to truly determine survival, generally one must wait one growing season, using whether new shoots and new roots have emerged as the standard. After the author adopted the above transplanting techniques for construction, the transplanting survival rate increased from the original 75% to over 90%, and the above techniques are highly operable and worth promoting and applying.

Transplanting Techniques for Seedlings, Large Trees and Clustered Seedlings

Key Techniques for Seedling Transplanting

Palm plants are most suitable for transplanting during the period after germination and rooting. At this time the seedlings are smaller, can be transplanted with seeds, and because there are few fibrous roots, the root system is not easily damaged when moving seedlings. Using nutrition bags for seedling cultivation, the size depends on the seedling cultivation time; generally, 1-year-old seedlings use 16 cm x 18 cm containers, 2-year-old seedlings use 19 cm x 20 cm; nutrition bags that are too small are not conducive to rapid seedling growth. The nutrition soil is prepared with loose topsoil, burned soil and wheat bran, mixed evenly in a 5:2:1 ratio with a small amount of phosphate fertilizer, then bagged. First fill half the bag with mixed soil, then place the seedling, then straighten the seedling and fill full, then compact, so that the seedling root system and mixed soil are closely attached, and water thoroughly. Palm plants cannot be planted too deep, otherwise it will affect seedling growth. If too deep, the seedling should be lifted upward to spread out the seedling root system.

Key Techniques for Large Tree Transplanting

Arecaceae plants are cultivated in nurseries for 5 to 10 years, and most require several rounds of bed transplanting, so selecting sparse-planted strong seedlings gives a higher survival rate.

Reducing root damage Palm plant root tissue is tender, with many lateral roots and capillary roots; when lifting and digging, carry as large a soil ball as possible and prevent it from loosening and cracking. Minimize root damage as much as possible, so as to maintain normal respiration and water absorption capacity, and improve transplanting survival rate. During construction, accurately set out lines and fix holes, avoid rework, and prevent soil ball loosening.

Leaf pruning The amount of leaves retained during transplanting should be comprehensively determined according to different species, the climate at transplanting, and transplanting and maintenance conditions.

Generally, about 40% of the original leaf count should be retained. Too many leaves retained will cause leaf yellowing due to high water evaporation; too few leaves retained will make plant recovery difficult with a long cycle, and the initial landscape effect will also be poor.

Protecting the plant stem and its false stem During the processes of lifting, carrying, loading and unloading the plant, the stem should be protected from damage, and the false stem portion should not be squeezed or bent; this is the guarantee of plant health and rapid recovery.

Soil at the new planting site Palm plants suffer root tip damage during transplanting, and it is difficult for new root tips to sprout within one month after transplanting, so water absorption capacity is weak. At this time, good soil permeability and aeration are conducive to seedling survival, so when planting, dig large holes and pay attention to the quality of imported soil, adding peat soil and compound fertilizer, to facilitate palm recovery after planting.

Maintenance Within one month after planting, the plant has poor adaptability, and the seedlings should be carefully maintained, with timely water supplementation and appropriate shading, striving to have new leaves sprout within three months. If continuous rainy weather occurs after transplanting, palm seedlings will recover better, because rainy days can avoid adverse factors such as scorching sun exposure.

Key Techniques for Transplanting Large Clustered Seedlings

Clustered species of palms in the Arecaceae family have multiple growing points. Once they develop into a multi-stemmed clumping form, they can grow new roots relatively quickly after transplanting. However, clustered palms also have drawbacks: the heavy trunks and large leaf area cause high water evaporation, and their poor wind permeability makes them vulnerable to strong winds. Therefore, in addition to the measures used for transplanting single-stemmed palms, the following technical measures should be added:

1. Implement the "fibrous root method" of transplanting: after digging out a relatively large root ball, use a small shovel to remove some soil along the outer edge of the root ball, retaining more fibrous roots and a moderate-sized root ball, then immediately wrap it with a light, moisture-retaining material to reduce the weight of the root ball while ensuring survival. For example, this method can be used for transplanting slow-recovering clustered palms such as the fishtail palm (Caryota) and the three-stamen areca (Areca triandra).

2. Implement bare-root temporary planting or container planting for concentrated care until new roots sprout and the plant is stable before formal planting. This method is suitable for robust clustered palms such as areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), Ptychosperma elegans, and Chamaedorea seifrizii (Hawaiian bamboo palm). It can reduce shipping costs and facilitate construction.

In summary, for transplanting large seedlings and mature trees of Arecaceae plants, simply put, five aspects should be well managed: selecting strong seedlings; digging good root balls and transporting them carefully; pruning leaves moderately; ensuring good aeration and drainage at the planting site; and managing post-planting care such as sun protection and moisture retention. The sign of successful transplanting of large seedlings and mature trees is the ability to retain most leaves and sprout new leaves within half a year after planting, with the sprouting of three healthy new leaves indicating complete success of the transplanting.

Drainage: First understand the hydrological conditions of the planting site. Try to place the bottom of the root ball at a position 100-150 cm above the year-round groundwater level of the planting site, in a spot with deep, fertile soil. At the same time, a drainage layer for the root ball underground and a surface runoff drainage network should be established to prevent water accumulation around the root ball after planting. If the hydrological conditions cannot meet the requirements, the method of raising the root ball can be used: first pile up the planting site with loose medium mixed with fertile soil or coarse sand to meet the above requirements as much as possible, then place the plant on the soil mound and fill around the root ball with mixed loose soil or planting soil mixed with humus. Remove debris from the soil around the planting site, or appropriately amend the soil with loose medium to achieve loose, breathable conditions for the plant roots. Strengthen inspections during the rainy season, promptly clear drainage facilities and appropriately loosen the soil around the roots to prevent waterlogging and drain accumulated water. Moisture retention: After planting, immediately water once with the settling water to ensure the root ball is moist and closely integrated with the surrounding soil, promoting root development. Then water thoroughly three more times and promptly cover the root ball to prevent surface soil cracking. In hot summer, spray water on the ground and canopy more often to increase environmental humidity and reduce transpiration. Leaf moisture retention measures include: a. Newly planted seedlings should have their leaves appropriately pruned to reduce the transpiration area of the leaves; b. Appropriately spray antitranspirants on the leaves to inhibit plant physiological metabolism and reduce physiological water loss; c. In sunny weather, spray atomized water on the leaves as much as possible to enhance leaf water absorption and weaken transpiration; check the moisture status of the root ball and roots at any time and replenish water promptly to ensure the root ball remains moist and the roots can breathe freely. Fertilization: After planting, in addition to maintaining moisture for the plant, appropriately spray low-concentration foliar fertilizer to strengthen post-planting nutritional supplementation. Frequently check the root sprouting status of the plant. If new roots are found growing, consider increasing root fertilization. Generally choose the season when the monthly average temperature is above 20°C, apply mainly organic fertilizer, and appropriately add compound fertilizer with high P and K content to promote balanced nutrition for the plant and ensure its rapid recovery and healthy growth. Pest and disease control: Spray pesticides to control pests and diseases before the seedlings leave the nursery. After arriving at the site, the plants also need to be sprayed with pesticides before unloading, and ensure continuous pesticide application three times at intervals of one week to ten days within one month after planting. Subsequently, a reasonable pest and disease control plan should be formulated. Special

Chapter Nine: "Maintenance Plan"

Sundalyen (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd. Landscaping

Main

te

nance

Plan

Nanjing Gensen Flowers and Trees Co., Ltd.

October 8, 2010

Project Overview

"Sundalyen (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd." is located at No. 31 Hengfei Road, Nanjing Economic and Technological Development Zone, with a green area of 28,186 sq m. The plant configuration in the factory area is relatively reasonable, with rich colors and obvious seasonal changes, forming a distinct layered and natural ecological plant community that basically displays the natural landscape of plants. The configuration of flowering shrubs and hedges between factory buildings gives each factory area a different landscape style. Dozens of plant species are planted in the factory area, including camphor (Cinnamomum camphora), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), zelkova (Zelkova serrata), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), and crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica). Among them are a boulevard formed by large-specimen camphor trees, and scenic spots at the gatehouse composed of ancient red maple, pomegranate, Malus spectabilis, ginkgo, and Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis).

In view of the existing landscaping conditions in the factory area, we believe that the initial construction was relatively extensive, with insufficient understanding of plant habits. In particular, the replacement of planting soil in the green areas was not thorough, and in some areas the rubbish soil was not replaced, resulting in poor plant growth.

Landscaping Maintenance Plan Schedule

January (Minor Cold, Major Cold)

1. Shaping and pruning of fruit trees.

2. Frequently check cold protection equipment, facilities and tree cold-protection wrapping materials.

3. Plough the land for winter tillage and apply sufficient winter fertilizer.

4. Prune dead, damaged, diseased and pest-infested branches, thoroughly remove overwintering bagworm cases, slug moth cocoons, and latent overwintering pests.

February (Beginning of Spring, Rain Water)

1. Continue winter pruning of deciduous trees and fruit trees.

2. Continue pruning diseased and pest-infested branches, and pay attention to observing the occurrence of pests and diseases (such as cottony cushion scale, globose scale, etc.).

3. Continue collecting and making compost, preparing cultivation soil, and continue applying winter fertilizer to various deciduous trees. March (Awakening of Insects, Spring Equinox)

As the weather gradually warms, many pests and diseases are about to occur. Maintain and repair various pest and disease control equipment and prepare chemicals. Pay attention to the occurrence of aphids and globose scale, and achieve timely control. April (Pure Brightness, Grain Rain)

1. Carry out control of pests such as scale insects, mites, cutworms, white grubs, mole crickets, and diseases such as powdery mildew and rust.

2. Do well in loosening soil, weeding, and pre-flowering fertilization. Apply dilute fertilizer weekly to perennial flowers and spring-sown herbaceous flowers.

3. Do well in bud removal and pruning of trees. Remove excess tender buds and improperly positioned branches at any time.

4. Dredge and repair the drainage system.

May (Beginning of Summer, Grain Full)

1. Carry out post-flowering pruning of spring-flowering shrubs and hedge trimming. According to technical operation requirements, carry out bud removal and pruning of trees, and prune and remove root suckers from small seedlings at any time.

2. Continue to strengthen tree maintenance and management, do well in replanting, thinning and final planting of seedlings, increase topdressing and apply dilute fertilizer frequently.

3. This month the temperature gradually rises, and pests and diseases cause great harm to trees and flowers. Attention should be paid to pest forecasting and prevention and disease control work.

4. Carry out lawn mowing and continue to remove weeds from the lawn.

June (Grain in Ear, Summer Solstice)

1. This month enters the plum rain season, with high temperature and high humidity. Replanting should be carried out promptly.

2. Carry out post-flowering pruning and fertilization of flowering shrubs, and pinch and prune some spring-sown herbaceous flowers.

3. Continue to remove weeds and continue mowing.

4. Do well in pest and disease control. This month focus on controlling bagworms, slug moths, tussock moths, inchworms, tortoise wax scale and other pests, as well as leaf spot disease, anthracnose, and sooty mold.

July (Minor Heat, Major Heat)

1. This month the weather is hot and weeds grow quickly. Continue intertillage weeding and loosening the soil.

2. Bagworms, slug moths, longhorn beetles, tortoise wax scale, armored scale, second-generation cottony cushion scale, mites and other pests occur in large numbers. Attention should be paid to their control, while continuing to control anthracnose, powdery mildew, leaf spot disease, etc.

3. During the dog days with high temperatures and little rain, irrigation for drought relief is needed. This month is also a month with more heavy rain, so attention should be paid to waterlogging prevention.

4. This month enters the typhoon and tidal flood season. Do well in typhoon and flood prevention work, check frequently, and promptly right wind-thrown trees.

August (Beginning of Autumn, End of Heat)

1. Continue intertillage weeding and loosening the soil.

2. Continue drought prevention and drainage work to ensure normal growth of seedlings.

3. This month seedlings grow vigorously. Apply topdressing promptly, and for small seedlings apply dilute fertilizer frequently.

4. Continue typhoon and flood prevention work, and promptly right wind-thrown trees when found.

5. Continue pest and disease control work. Carefully control major pests harmful to trees (bagworms, second-generation slug moths, longhorn beetles, mites, etc.) and major diseases (powdery mildew, anthracnose, leaf spot disease, etc.).

September (White Dew, Autumn Equinox)

1. Continue pest and disease control work; especially frequently check the occurrence of aphids, wood bagworms, etc., and control immediately upon discovery.

2. Continue intertillage weeding, continue removing lawn weeds, carry out lawn mowing, and carry out shaping and pruning of topiary and hedges.

3. Continue pest and disease control work. Especially check the occurrence of aphids, bagworms, slug moths, brown spot disease and sooty mold on flowering shrubs, etc., and control promptly.

October (Cold Dew, Frost Descent)

1. Do well in pest and disease control work, eliminating various adult insects and eggs.

2. Continue intertillage weeding.

3. After seedlings stop growing, check the survival rate, ascertain the actual situation, and ensure the smooth progress of winter and spring landscaping work.

November (Beginning of Winter, Minor Snow)

1. Do well in cold protection work, whitewash some trees, or wrap them with straw rope.

2. Carry out winter tree pruning, cutting off diseased branches and dead branches; egg-bearing branches, competing branches, and exces-

Basic Knowledge of Flower Cultivation

  Flower (['flauə]; plural: Flowers), is a general term for plants grown for appreciation, a modified short shoot with reproductive function, and there are many species.

  A typical flower, on a limited-growth short axis, bears the calyx, petals, and stamens and pistils that produce reproductive cells. A flower is composed of the corolla, calyx, receptacle, and stamens and pistils. They come in all kinds of colors, some are very showy, and some are fragrant.

  Planting includes transplanting and final planting. The methods are the same. Final planting means the plant is no longer moved after planting, while transplanting is a cultivation measure before final planting, changing the planting distance for the plant to suit its growth needs.
  1. Transplanting Transplanting is to enlarge the row and plant spacing of seedlings of various specifications so that the seedlings can obtain sufficient nutrients, light and air. At the same time, when transplanting, the main root of the seedling is cut, which can cause the seedling to produce more lateral roots and form a well-developed root system, which is beneficial to its growth. Before transplanting, sown seedlings generally need to be thinned, removing overly dense, weak or diseased small seedlings. The thinned seedlings can also be planted separately. Field-grown seedlings are transplanted for the first time when they have 4-5 true leaves. Seedlings sown in pots often begin transplanting when 1-2 true leaves appear. The row and plant spacing for transplanting depends on the size of the seedlings, their growth rate, and the remaining bed period after transplanting. The preparation of the seedling bed for transplanted seedlings is basically the same as for the sowing bed. The soil at transplanting should be neither too wet nor too dry. Generally, transplant when the soil is dry, but if the soil is too dry, the seedlings are prone to wilting. Water the bed the day before planting, and transplant when the soil particles have absorbed water, swelled, and no longer stick to the hand. When the soil is wet, it is not only inconvenient to operate, but also the soil becomes compacted after planting, which is unfavorable for seedling growth. When transplanting, do not press the soil too firmly, to avoid damaging the roots. When watering, the soil particles will settle with the water and come into close contact with the root system. Transplanting is best done on a windless, cloudy day. If the weather is clear, the light is strong, and it is hot, transplant in the evening. Before transplanting, distinguish the varieties to avoid mixing. When digging seedlings, cut the main root without damaging the fibrous roots, and transplant with as much root-protecting soil as possible. Digging seedlings and planting should be coordinated, digging and planting at the same time. If the wind is strong and evaporation is intense, cover and shade the dug seedlings. The transplanting hole should be slightly larger so that the roots can stretch out freely. The planting depth should be consistent with the original planting depth, or 1-2 cm deeper. Too shallow makes it easy to lodge; too deep results in poor development. After planting, water thoroughly immediately, and water again once to ensure sufficient amount. In dry weather, water while planting. In summer, shade the transplants initially to reduce evaporation and avoid wilting.
  2. Final planting Final planting includes planting large seedlings after transplanting, potted seedlings, stored bulbs, perennial flowers, and woody flowers in a place where they will no longer be moved. Before final planting, according to the needs of the plant, improve the soil structure, adjust the pH, and improve drainage conditions. Generally, plants need fertile, loose, and well-drained soil. Fertilizer can be mixed in when preparing the soil or applied at the bottom of the hole after digging. The plant spacing used at final planting should be determined according to the size of the flower plant when mature, or according to planting requirements. When digging seedlings, generally root-protecting soil should be kept. Soil that is too wet or too dry is not suitable for digging seedlings. The amount of soil kept depends on the size of the root system. Deciduous tree species planted during dormancy do not need to keep soil. Evergreen flowering trees and species that are difficult to transplant must keep a complete soil ball, and the soil ball should be tied with straw rope. When final planting, dig a hole. The hole should be larger and deeper than the root system or soil ball of the seedling to be planted. Lift the stem base of the seedling near the soil surface and place it upright in the hole. Then shovel soil from around the hole into the hole until about 2/3 full, shake the seedling so that the soil particles and root system come into close contact, then press the soil firmly around the outer part of the root system, and finally fill the hole with loose soil so that it is level with the ground and slightly concave. Water twice immediately after planting. After planting herbaceous flower seedlings, water again the next day. Bulbous flowers generally do not need watering at the initial stage of planting. If it is too dry, water thoroughly once. When final planting large perennial flowers and woody flowers, root pruning should be carried out at the same time. Damaged roots, rotten roots and dead roots should all be cut off. After final planting large tree seedlings, support posts should also be set up, or ropes set up at three diagonal corners to prevent falling over. Potting Potted flowers can be moved at will according to courtyard landscaping and indoor needs. However, because growth is restricted by the flower pot, relatively fine maintenance and management are required.
  1. Transplanting in pots Young pot-sown seedlings sometimes need their first transplanting in the sowing pot. A sowing pot with a diameter of 30 cm can have about 60 seedlings transplanted. The medium is similar to the sowing cultivation soil. If the sown seedlings are too crowded, they are generally transplanted when 1 true leaf appears, or transplanted right after the cotyledons unfold. The spacing between seedlings is 1-2 cm. Use a pointed bamboo chopstick to dig out the seedlings, then use it to make a hole and plant the seedling in the hole. The planting depth should be appropriate, so as not to bury the cotyledons and growing point. Then spray water with a fine sprayer, or use the bottom-watering method, until the soil in the pot is completely wet, then take it out and place it in a semi-shaded place. Before using the bottom-watering method, the bottom hole of the pot should be padded well and the medium pressed firmly, otherwise when soaking, the medium will loosen and overflow from the pot hole.
  2. Potting (1) Prepare the workroom The workroom should have an operating table, a certain shelf for storing cultivation soil and flower pots, and a cart for transporting potted flowers, which can improve work efficiency. Also prepare in advance broken pot pieces to pad the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot. (2) Operation ① Padding the pot: Cover the drainage hole with broken pot pieces (at least 3 pieces), with the concave side facing down, requiring that it both blocks the drainage hole and prevents soil from clogging the drainage hole, so that water in the pot can slowly drain out. When using bottom-watering or a similar pot-bottom watering irrigation method, the pot bottom does not need padding; instead, just place a layer of material at the bottom of the pot that can absorb water and prevent soil from overflowing, such as sphagnum moss. ② Potting process: In the pot with the tile pieces padded, first add coarse-grained medium to ensure smooth drainage, then hold the seedling with one hand, straighten the plant, stand it in the center of the pot and control the planting depth; with the other hand add cultivation medium, filling the gaps around the roots until the pot is full. The planting depth should suit the size of the seedling. Then shake the pot and press the medium firmly with your fingers so that the medium surface is 1-2 cm below the pot rim. After potting, water thoroughly immediately, to the extent that water drains from the bottom hole. After the water is absorbed, water once more. Newly potted seedlings need shading, and generally only after 3-7 days can they resume growth.
  3. Repotting Repotting is moving a potted flower from a small pot to a larger pot, but there is also the case of only changing the soil without changing the pot. The repotting method is the same as potting. (1) Situations when potted plants need repotting ① The flower seedling has grown larger and fibrous roots have penetrated out of the drainage hole. ② The plant has gone through dormancy and needs repotting before resuming growth, replacing with new soil and cleaning rotten roots. ③ The seedling has become too large and needs division. ④ The plant has been potted for 2-3 years and needs the cultivation soil replaced. (2) Unpotting Unpotting is taking the flower seedling out of the original flower pot. Do not water before unpotting, so that the pot soil is appropriately dry, making it easy for the soil ball to come out intact. When unpotting, hold the pot with one hand, make a fist with the other, and tap the pot rim lightly so that the soil ball comes out on its own. If it is a large pot, lay the pot on its side on a wooden block, tap the edge of the pot lightly, and after the soil ball loosens, hold the soil ball with your hand and then take it out. If it is a large vat, two people are needed to operate it. First use a bamboo sign to dig out the soil at the edge of the pot, then unpot; when unpotting, hold the plant well to avoid crushing it by the soil ball. (3) Soil ball treatment Remove some of the soil on top and around the plant soil ball as well as the broken pot pieces at the bottom of the pot, cut off overly long, damaged and diseased roots, then pot again. If the pot edge is full of new white roots, it can be moved intact into a large flower pot. For large seedlings potted for many years, the root system is intricately tangled, and it is often necessary to use a bamboo sign to remove the soil between the roots, then change the soil and pot. For some precious species with fleshy roots, such as orchids, peonies, and clivia, after unpotting, first clean the roots, dry them in the shade, and then pot them. If the place where pots are placed is an open-field seedling bed, black plastic film should be laid down to prevent weed growth, earthworms from entering the drainage holes, and the drainage holes from being clogged by ground soil. Intertillage and Weeding Intertillage is the work of loosening the soil around the roots of plants during the flower growth period. Through intertillage, the capillaries on the soil surface can be cut off, reducing water evaporation; the pores in the topsoil can be increased, containing more air; and it can promote the decomposition of nutrients in the soil, which is beneficial to the roots' use of water and nutrients. Intertillage should be carried out after showers or heavy irrigation and when the soil is compacted. At the base of the seedlings, shallow cultivation should be done, and in the row and plant spacing, slightly deeper cultivation can be done. Shallow-rooted plants such as carnations generally do not undergo intertillage to avoid cutting the root system during intertillage; after the plant grows large and covers the soil surface, intertillage is also not done. For soil surfaces that are not intertilled, mulch can be used, such as bark, chopped rice and wheat straw, etc., which can also serve the function of intertillage. The purpose of weeding is to remove field weeds so that they do not compete with seedlings for water, nutrients and sunlight. Weeds are often also hosts of pests and diseases. Therefore, they must be thoroughly removed to ensure the health of flowers. Weeding should be done early and thoroughly, not waiting until it becomes a disaster. In particular, remove them clearly before they set seed, to avoid weed infestation. There are many weeding methods, such as hand hoeing and mechanical tillage. In recent years, chemical herbicides are mostly used. If used properly, they can save labor and time. However, attention should be paid to safety. Correctly use suitable herbicides according to the crop type. For the concentration, method and dosage used, follow the instructions.
  1. Types of herbicides: Roughly divided into four categories: (1) Non-selective: no distinction among all plants, killing all. Such as sodium pentachlorophenol and paraquat. (2) Selective: selectively killing weeds, with different effects on crops, such as 2,4-D ester. (3) Systemic: this kind of herbicide can be absorbed into the plant body through the stems, leaves or roots of the grass, playing a role in destroying internal structures and disrupting physiological balance, thereby causing plant death. Those absorbed by stems and leaves, such as glyphosate. Those absorbed through roots, such as simazine. (4) Contact: the herbicide only kills the plant parts directly contacted, and has no effect on parts not contacted. Such as nitrofen.
  2. Common chemical herbicides
  (1) Nitrofen: wettable powder. Non-selective contact herbicide. Under conditions of sunlight, high temperature and moist soil, the effect is remarkable; at temperatures below 20°C, the efficacy is poor. It has a good effect on killing young weeds grown from seeds, but little effect on grown weeds. The residual effect period is 20-40 days.
  (2) Chlornitrofen: 20% emulsion, non-selective contact herbicide. Under sunlight, the efficacy reaction is rapid and little affected by temperature. It can kill many newly germinated weeds, but has poor efficacy on grown weeds. It is often used for soil treatment before weed germination or during germination. The residual effect period is 20-30 days.
  (3) Sodium pentachlorophenol: divided into powder and granular formulations. Non-selective contact herbicide. It has a great effect on killing newly germinated weeds, but poor effect on perennial and grown weeds. The residual effect period is 3-7 days.
  (4) Prometryn: 50% wettable powder. Highly effective systemic herbicide. Wide weed-killing range and long efficacy duration. It is often used for soil treatment before planting, and can also be used during the seedling emergence period. In spring potted plant areas, it is used before placing pots, with a validity period of more than 60 days.
  (5) Monuron: 25% wettable powder. Non-selective systemic herbicide, also with a certain contact effect. Wide weed-killing range. Besides annual grasses, it is also effective against perennial deep-rooted grasses. Generally used for soil treatment.
  (6) Diuron: 25% wettable powder. Root-systemic herbicide. Little absorbed by stems and leaves. Wide weed-killing range. Used for soil treatment during the weed germination period. The residual effect period is 50-70 days.
  (7) Chlorotoluron: 25% wettable powder. Root-systemic herbicide, also with leaf contact effect. After application, it does not affect germination, but when weeds grow to a certain stage, they die because photosynthesis is destroyed.
  (8) 2,4-D: a highly selective systemic herbicide. When used for soil treatment during weed germination, the effect is best. Spraying on stems and leaves can also achieve relatively good results. It has a strong effect on killing dicotyledonous plants and is ineffective on monocotyledonous plants. Suitable for use on lawns planted with monocotyledonous plants.
  (9) Glyphosate, also known as Zhencaoning: a 10-16% dark brown liquid, non-selective systemic broad-spectrum herbicide, can kill perennial weeds. Spray on stems and leaves when using.
  (10) Paraquat: 5-20% aqueous solution. Non-selective contact herbicide. It has a good effect on killing annual plants. For perennial deep-rooted weeds, it can only kill their green parts and inhibit their growth.
  (11) Dalapon, also known as dalapon: 87% wettable powder. Systemic herbicide, can be used for soil treatment and also for stem and leaf spraying. It has a good effect on monocotyledonous plants and poor effect on dicotyledonous plants. Mixed use with prometryn, nitrofen, etc., can expand the weed-killing range, improve the weed-killing effect, and prolong the duration of efficacy.
  (12) Simazine: 50% wettable powder. Highly selective systemic herbicide. Suitable for soil treatment. The efficacy reaction is slow and the weed-killing range is wide. It has a good effect on killing annual weeds and poor effect on perennial deep-rooted weeds, but when the dosage is large, it can also cause them to die. The residual effect period is very long.
  Shaping
  1. Pinching Pinching refers to removing the tip of a growing tender branch. It can promote the sprouting of lateral branches, increase the number of flowering branches, dwarf the plant, make the plant shape round and neat, and make flowering neat; it also has the effect of inhibiting growth and delaying flowering.
  2. Pruning For woody flowers with hard branches, using tools to cut off or shorten branches is called pruning. It is divided into thinning pruning and heading-back pruning. Thinning pruning only cuts off diseased branches, insect-infested branches, overlapping branches, overly dense branches, thin and weak branches, and leggy branches, so as to make the interior of the plant ventilated and light-permeable, distribute branches evenly, concentrate nutrients on effective branches, and promote growth and flowering. Heading-back pruning is shortening most branches, maintaining a certain tree shape, and promoting the occurrence of new branches. For flowering trees that bloom on new branches of the current year, during the dormant period, cut back near the base of the branch to lower the starting point of new branches the next year and dwarf the plant; this kind of pruning is also called renewal pruning. For flowering trees that bloom on biennial branches, because their flower buds formed in the previous year, pruning should be carried out immediately after flowering, so that they sprout new branches early and prepare for flowering the next year. For flowering trees that bloom on current-year branches, if pruned immediately after the flowers fade, they may bloom again. When pruning, pay attention to the direction of the retained bud. When new branches are needed to grow upward, retain the inner bud; when new branches are needed to spread outward, retain the outer bud. The cut should be a slanted surface and smooth. The retained bud should be on the opposite side of the cut. The cut should be 1 cm above the retained bud, not too high or too low. If an entire branch is removed, it should be close to the fork, without leaving a stub.
  3. Leaf removal, flower removal and fruit removal Leaf removal is removing leaves that have aged, waste nutrients, and affect light on flower buds. Some flowers, after dormancy, have messy leaves, uneven leaf sizes, and very different petiole lengths, so they need to be tidied up and unmatched leaves removed. Flower removal is, first, removing residual flowers. For example, after azaleas bloom, the residual flowers remain for a long time without falling, affecting the growth of tender buds and tender branches, so they need to be removed; second, removing flowers that are excessive in growth or deformed and unattractive. Fruit removal is removing unwanted small fruits.
  4. Bud removal and flower bud removal Bud removal is removing young lateral buds occurring on the upper part of a branch at the base. Its purpose is to reduce excessive lateral branches, so as not to hinder ventilation and light transmission and disperse nutrients; make the retained branches grow robustly and improve flowering quality. Flower bud removal is, after flower buds form, in order to ensure the nutrition for the main bud to bloom, removing side buds to improve flowering quality. Sometimes, in order to adjust the flowering speed and make all flowers on the plant open neatly, flower bud removal is done several times. For branches with small flower buds, remove side buds early; for those with large flower buds, remove buds later, finally making the flower buds on each branch similar in size and the flowers similar in size when blooming.
  5. Staking Some potted flowers or field-grown cut flowers have soft stems and are easy to bend or lodge; or the stems are slender and brittle and are easily broken by wind; therefore, during the growth period, support is needed, that is, staking. The supporting material is thin bamboo, bamboo sticks or hard plastic rods, and the binding material is palm rope, palm fiber or nylon thread. There are three staking methods: (1) Set up one support for each branch and tie the branch to the support. To avoid the support wearing the flower branch, tie the plant stem and the support separately. (2) Use 3-4 supports, inserted separately around the plant, then use binding material to connect and tie each support into a ring around the outside of the plant, so that the plant is in the center. (3) Set up supports at both ends of the cultivation bed, set up longitudinal bamboo poles on both sides of the bed, then use binding material to form a crisscross network, with mesh holes about 10-15 cm, so that plant branches extend through the mesh holes during natural growth; when the branches above the net are 25-30 cm long, add another layer, generally needing 3 layers. Mostly used for cut flower cultivation. Pre-made nylon net can also be used instead, increasing to 4-5 layers as it grows. This method saves more labor when working.
  6. Modeling According to the characteristics of the flowers, use various techniques and frames to make the plant form various geometric patterns or human and animal shapes as expected. Mostly used for potted flowers, or evergreen small-leaved woody plants. Plant Growth Regulation Plant growth regulating substances are divided into plant hormones produced inside plants and artificially synthesized chemical substances with hormone-like activity. As long as a trace amount of this substance exists, it can promote or inhibit plant growth and development, but excessive use can also cause injury. The discovery of this substance provides horticulturists with a new method to control plant growth and development.
  1. Types Plant growth regulating substances can be roughly divided into six categories, namely: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, abscisic acid, ethylene and growth retardants, etc.
  (1) Auxins Auxins are the earliest discovered plant hormones. They are widely distributed in higher plants and relatively concentrated in vigorously growing tissues. Commonly used in flowers are auxin-like compounds, including naphthaleneacetic acid, indoleacetic acid, indolebutyric acid, 2,4-D, 2,4,5-T, etc. They have a significant promoting effect on growth, stimulate cambium activity, new root formation, induce parthenocarpy and fruit development, etc.
  (2) Gibberellins Gibberellins exist in young tissues such as plant buds, young roots, immature seeds, and embryos. There are many types, and now they can be produced artificially through fermentation. The most used is gibberellic acid GA3. The effect of gibberellin is to promote internode elongation, release dormancy of seeds, tubers and buds. It can partially replace the effect of low temperature and long-day conditions, promote flowering of long-day plants and biennial plants, induce parthenocarpy and inhibit senescence, etc. It has a great influence on new shoot growth and a slow effect on roots.
  (3) Cytokinins Cytokinins include natural kinetin and a variety of artificially synthesized similar substances. Natural kinetin exists in shoot tips, root tips, immature seeds, germinating seeds and growing fruits. Cytokinins commonly used in flowers include 6-benzylaminopurine, zeatin, kinetin, etc. Their effect is to promote cell division, cell expansion, bud differentiation, release apical dominance, promote lateral bud growth, inhibit senescence, etc. For seeds and buds, they have the effect of breaking dormancy and promoting germination.
  (4) Abscisic acid Abscisic acid is widely present in higher plants. Various young and old organs and tissues contain abscisic acid, but the content differs in different organs and different developmental stages, and is higher in organs or tissues that are about to fall off or enter dormancy. The effect of abscisic acid is similar to short-day conditions. It can stimulate flowering of some short-day plants, inhibit or stop flowering of some long-day plants, affect tuber formation, and promote leaf senescence and dormancy.
  (5) Ethylene Ethylene is widely present in various plant tissues, with the highest content in ripening fruits. Other organs such as flowers, leaves, stems, roots and seeds all produce ethylene. Combustion also produces ethylene. Ethylene can promote fruit color change and ripening, promote leaf drop and senescence, inhibit organ elongation, promote flowering of some plants, promote sex conversion in some plants, with more female flowers differentiated, and can also inhibit the differentiation of some flowers. Ethylene is a gas at normal temperature, and its application is limited. In the 1960s, ethephon was made. It is an acidic liquid, and after spraying, when the acidity decreases, it releases ethylene gas. Its production advanced the application of ethylene in plant growth and development. It can be used to pour into the plant heart, irrigate the soil, and spray on leaves.
  (6) Growth retardants Growth retardants have the effect of restricting stem elongation, inhibiting the apical growth advantage of the plant, and promoting the growth of lateral branches. Types used in flowers include quaternary ammonium (AmO-1618), chlormequat (CCC), daminozide (B9), maleic hydrazide (MH), etc.
  2. Application Research on the application of plant growth regulating substances in flowers has progressed rapidly, but it has dual nature. Used appropriately, it can improve flower quality, save costs, quickly achieve effects that general maintenance measures cannot achieve, and promote the development of flower production; but if used inappropriately, it will have the opposite effect. Therefore, when using it, strict attention must be paid to the type used, concentration, plant variety, application site on the plant, amount used, and the environmental conditions at the time (such as temperature, light, etc.). It is mostly used as powder or solution. Powder can be sprayed, dusted, dipped or coated. Liquid can be used for root irrigation, local soaking, spot coating, and stem and leaf spraying. Application of plant growth substances in flowers:
  (1) Promoting rooting of cuttings Indolebutyric acid has an obvious effect, and low-concentration 2,4-D also has an effect. After use, it can promote rooting of azaleas, camellias, sasanqua, osmanthus, Michelia figo, Aglaia odorata, magnolia, bougainvillea, crape myrtle and carnation, and has the same effect on layering. There are three methods of using the agent: ① Soaking method: use a lower concentration for species that root easily, and a slightly higher concentration for species that do not root easily. Generally, soak the base of the cutting with 50-100 ppm for about 12-24 hours. ② Quick dip method: indolebutyric acid at 500-1000 ppm, soak the base of the cutting for 5-7 seconds. ③ Powder use: add the compound to talcum powder, with an amount of 0.1-0.3%. Before use, first moisten the base of the cutting, then dip in powder or dust with powder.
  (2) Promoting seed germination Soak the seeds of Archontophoenix alexandrae in 100 ppm gibberellin for 24 hours to germinate earlier. Cyclamen (rabbit flower), Michelia, petunia, and primrose treated in the above liquid can also germinate earlier. Iris soaked with ethephon before dry storage can make germination neat.
  (3) Promoting growth, enhancing growth vigor, preventing senescence After rubber tree is treated with 100 ppm naphthaleneacetic acid to promote rooting, then 500 ppm naphthaleneacetic acid is mixed into mud and dipped and coated on the roots, then potted, growth will be significantly accelerated. Fuchsia, after cuttings root, sprayed with gibberellin will also accelerate growth.
  (4) Dwarfing plants, increasing branching, dense flowers, beautiful plant shape. It can dwarf chrysanthemum, poinsettia, Hibiscus mutabilis, hibiscus, cineraria, and geranium, increase lateral branches, and produce a dense, round form. The dosage is 1000-3000 ppm. African violet soaked in KT kinetin for 24 hours can produce a large number of adventitious buds on the petiole; coating orchid roots with 1% BA can promote adventitious buds. When used on begonia small leaf cuttings, it can make many adventitious buds grow at the leaf edge. Poinsettia sprayed with 500 ppm has increased branching, with the same effect as pinching. In addition, after CCC treatment, stems are obviously shortened in plants such as tansy, cockscomb, coleus, carnation, globe amaranth, hydrangea, and Impatiens. After using B9, plants are obviously shortened in cosmos, marigold, zinnia, chrysanthemum, etc.
  (5) Controlling dormancy 20 ppm abscisic acid can make woody plants shed leaves and enter dormancy and improve cold resistance. 500-1000 ppm gibberellin applied to dormant buds of tree peony and herbaceous peony will sprout and grow within a few days. 100-200 ppm gibberellin soaking dormant bulbs of tuberose can promote germination.
  (6) Reducing respiration, extending flower life Soaking chrysanthemum, carnation, and asparagus fern with 6BA can reduce plant respiration rate and play a fresh-keeping role. Spraying 10 ppm gibberellin on geranium when young can increase flowering time by 2 weeks. Anthurium soaked in a solution containing cytokinin at a certain temperature can reduce damage during transport and enhance cold resistance.
  (7) Role in flower tissue culture These chemical substances play an important regulatory role in organ formation in tissue culture. The most influential are auxins and cytokinins. Organ formation is controlled by the ratio of the two. When the auxin concentration is high, it is favorable for root formation; when the cytokinin is relatively high, it can promote bud formation.
  (8) Others Regulating flower differentiation and development, controlling flowering period and promoting pedicel elongation, promoting flowering, etc., have been described in "Flowering Period Control". Chemical weeding, see the "Intertillage and Weeding" section. Environmental regulation According to the different needs of various flowers, creating an environment suitable for their growth is very important.
   1. Temperature regulation Plants not only need a certain air temperature; the ground temperature of the cultivation bed and the bottom temperature of the propagation bed often have a more important effect on the roots. Generally, ground temperature should be higher than air temperature, and daytime temperature should be higher than nighttime temperature, otherwise plants grow poorly. Temperature regulation is divided into heating and cooling.
  (1) Heating ① Field windbreaks: set up windbreaks on the north or northwest side of the planting site to prevent cold. The height of the windbreak, with the front eave mostly 2.5-3.5 m high, varies depending on the height of the plants to be protected. The front and rear eaves form a 60° angle so that sunlight can enter. ② Covering: the most used is plastic film mulching. The film is thin and low-cost, laid directly flat on the ground where seedlings are planted, and the seedlings can grow through the film. In winter, it can increase 7°C on sunny days, 5°C on cloudy days, and 4°C on rainy days. Another is to build an arch-shaped shed more than 1 m high, using bamboo strips or steel bars as supports, covered with plastic film. To increase cold protection and wind protection, straw curtains or reed curtains are also sometimes added on top of the film. ③ Cold protection with large sheds or greenhouses: large sheds covered with film are larger in scale, people can operate indoors, and they can be dismantled when not in use. Greenhouses may be covered with plastic or glass. They are fixed and used all year round. ④ Greenhouse heating: when the greenhouse temperature does not meet application requirements, covering and heating methods are often used to increase the indoor temperature. Covering with plastic film or thermal blankets can preserve the indoor temperature. Heating methods include flue heating, hot water heating, steam heating, electric heating, infrared heating, etc.
  (2) Cooling Although heating and cold protection in winter are important, cooling measures in summer are also indispensable. Cyclamen, tuberous begonia, and fuchsia do not grow well in Shanghai, all because the summer temperature is too high. A simple method is to set up a shade shed in an outdoor place with air circulation, shade above, and spray water on the ground. A better cooling method in the greenhouse is to use a water wall for evaporative cooling.
  2. Light regulation Artificial methods of regulating light include supplementary lighting and shading:
  (1) Supplementary lighting The minimum limit of light should be above the light compensation point, otherwise flowers cannot survive. The way to increase light is to use electric lights. A 1400-watt electric lamp at a distance of 2 m from the plant produces the same illuminance as sunlight. If the irradiation distance is shortened, the light intensity used can be reduced according to the inverse square law of its distance from the plant. To save money, 100-300 watt white fluorescent lamps can also be used, which can similarly achieve certain light conditions and meet the growth requirements of plants; this light source, when close to plants, will not burn them. Only 10-12% of incandescent light is used as light energy, and the rest is heat energy; when close to plants, the plants may be burned. Plant biological lamps made in recent years are more suitable for supplementing light to plants. Increasing day length requires incandescent lamps, turning on the lights in the middle of the night to prevent plants from forming flower buds during an overly long dark period. Incandescent light has long-wave red light, which is most effective in interrupting the dark period. Generally, add light from 20:00 to 2:00 at night, which can destroy the accumulation of substances that stimulate flowering in plants during the dark period. Fluorescent lamps do not have long-wave red light to prevent flower bud formation and cannot be used.
  (2) Shading Shading can be done with reed blinds, shade cloth, or by placing plants in a shaded location. Planting shade trees is also effective. To shorten the day length by shading, materials such as black cloth, black paper, or black plastic film can be used to create a completely lightproof environment. When choosing shading materials and shading duration, the temperature at the time must be taken into account; if the temperature is too high during shading, it will affect the normal growth of the plants. The shading period must connect with the dark period, that is, it should begin before sunrise or before sunset, so that the flowers can differentiate flower buds during the long night.
  3. Regulation of humidity and air
  (1) Regulation of water supply For field-grown plants, water regulation is relatively simple; before planting, improve the soil's water-holding capacity and drainage ability. The former means adding humus or other loose media, such as bark granules or yellow sand; the latter means creating open ditches, hidden drains, or a drainage system. When the site conditions meet the requirements, water only during obvious drought to supplement the shortage of natural precipitation and available soil moisture. Potted plants are different; if they cannot get water provided specifically for them, they cannot survive. Therefore, special attention must be paid to water regulation for potted plants. ① Water temperature: The temperature of irrigation water must not differ too much from the soil temperature; too high or too low will damage the roots. The difference between the two should not exceed 5°C. In winter, water after the air temperature rises; in a greenhouse, after 10 o'clock, and in the open field, at noon. In summer, water when the temperature is lower, such as in the morning or evening. ② Water quantity: Field-grown plants should be given more water to maintain a longer period, but potted plants should be watered just the right amount. After thorough watering, the second watering should wait until the moisture content in the pot is nearly exhausted, especially indoors in winter, where even more attention should be paid. If the potted medium drains well, the plant variety is uniform, and the plants are similar in size, it is not necessary to check each pot individually and they can be watered at the same time. Otherwise, the amount of water must be determined according to the needs of each plant, and whether watering is appropriate must be judged by experience. For potted plants in the open field, taking summer as an example, water thoroughly once every morning. In the afternoon, only check and give supplemental water to those whose leaves are slightly wilted. If most plants are found to be slightly wilted, water them all. The medium of greenhouse potted plants is generally relatively loose and drains well. In summer, watering thoroughly in the morning is usually sufficient, and generally no supplemental water is needed in the afternoon, but a check should still be made once; in winter, after one thorough watering, unless the indoor temperature is very high, the plants are growing vigorously, and the potted plants are in the flowering stage, the second watering can be given after two or three days; for drought-loving plants, the interval should be even longer. For flowers that like moisture, have large leaves, and are soft, because more water is lost from the leaf surface, more irrigation is needed; for those that like dryness, have small leaves, have a hard cuticle or waxy layer, and have rough, hairy leaf surfaces, less water is lost, so less irrigation is needed. The water requirement of flowers during the vigorous growth period is much greater than during the dormant period. Clay pots are well aerated and the potting soil dries easily, so watering frequency should be higher; purple clay pots and glazed pots have poor aeration and the potting soil does not dry easily, so watering frequency should be lower. ③ Irrigation methods: a. Sprinkler irrigation: For flowers cultivated on a large scale with a single variety, one sprinkler irrigation should be enough to make the root distribution layer absorb sufficient water. In summer, sprinkling should be done in the morning and evening, which can also increase the humidity of the micro-environment, keep the plants fresh, and have a cooling effect. b. Drip irrigation: It uses a large number of thin tubes, such as rubber or plastic tubes, to supply water drop by drop for the flowers to absorb. This method can be used for a single cultivated variety arranged by plant size; it is convenient to manage, saves water, and can also be combined with liquid fertilization. c. Hand watering: According to the wet and dry condition of the flower soil and the size of the plants and pots, water one by one; it is suitable for indoor plants in offices, homes, and hotels. d. Water absorption from the bottom of the pot: The flower bed where greenhouse potted plants are placed is made with a flat, watertight bottom, with or without a water-supply mat or other materials, so that excessive water absorption is caused and the medium can remain moist at any time; fertilizer and water can be supplied simultaneously, enabling the plants to grow well. With this watering method, broken pot pieces must not be placed at the bottom of the pot, so as not to block the absorption of water.
  (2) Regulation of air humidity Air humidity shows the content of water vapor in the air and varies with the environment, season, and weather. It should be regulated according to the air humidity requirements of various flowers at different periods. For example, newly transplanted seedlings need higher air humidity to reduce evaporation and prevent wilting; orchids, ferns, Araceae, and other tropical rainforest plants also need a high-humidity environment to grow well; when Buddha's hand is flowering, if the air is dry, it often drops flowers and buds; cacti and other succulent plants in an environment with high air humidity often become moldy and rot. The methods of increasing air humidity are spraying water or covering and blocking wind; the method of reducing air humidity is ventilation and air exchange.
  (3) Regulation of air The gases in the air that are beneficial to plants include carbon dioxide (CO2), oxygen (O2), and nitrogen (N2). The constant content of carbon dioxide in the air is 0.032%, which is insufficient for plant use. The content of oxygen in the air is 21%, so it is generally not deficient. The content of nitrogen in the air is 78%, but it can only be used by plants with root nodules. Various gases in the atmosphere flow constantly, keeping their composition constant, and cannot be artificially controlled. However, in a sealed greenhouse, where there is no or little gas exchange with the outside, it is possible for a certain gas to accumulate or become deficient. In sunlight, greenhouse plants quickly use up the carbon dioxide in the greenhouse, hindering normal photosynthesis. Therefore, ventilation and air exchange are a measure in greenhouse management to maintain photosynthesis. In recent years, measures to supplement carbon dioxide in greenhouses have achieved certain results in improving flower yield and quality. Carnations show significant benefits from carbon dioxide supplementation; supplementing carbon dioxide in winter can increase the yield in April to May and can also raise the grade of the flowers; the same is true for roses. Supplementing carbon dioxide for chrysanthemums while increasing the temperature can increase stem length and dry weight; for geraniums, it can promote rooting and increase the flowering rate. Carbon dioxide that does not contain sulfur should be used, and the increase should reach 1000-1200 ppm in the air. Use it on sunny days; do not use it or use less on cloudy days. The application time is related to the temperature at the time, and the greenhouse doors and windows should be closed. Although oxygen in the air will not be deficient, opening windows for ventilation is still an indispensable management measure. The importance of fresh air to flower growth has increasingly attracted the attention of the horticultural field, and ventilation facilities are often added indoors. The requirement for oxygen during the dormant period and seed storage period is relatively low, while the seed germination period and flowering period require large amounts of oxygen. There are also gases in the air that harm plants; some come from factory waste gas, and some come from materials required by horticultural work itself, such as fertilizers, pesticides for pest and disease control and herbicides, the decomposition of organic matter, and the respiration of the flowers themselves. There are many gases in the air that harm plants, mainly chlorine, sulfur dioxide, ethylene, fluorine, and others. Although they are trace amounts, the harm is great. Therefore, production bases should be selected in pollution-free areas.

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