What to do when calendula gets pests? Learn how to control 3 pests and 3 diseases
Calendula, also called pot marigold, belongs to the Asteraceae family and is a highly ornamental flower that is welcomed and loved by many people. However, although calendula is beautiful, once it is not cared for properly, pests will appear and seriously affect its ornamental value. So what should you do when calendula gets pests? Below are 6 pest and disease control methods for calendula. Follow along with the editor to learn more.
1. When calendula gets pests, spray with pesticide
When growing calendula indoors, careful care is fine, but once it is not cultivated strictly according to calendula growing methods, symptoms of pests and disease will appear, and in severe cases flowering will be affected. By then, flower lovers must be very anxious! So what should you do when calendula gets pests? First determine the specific pest, then solve it accordingly. For this, the editor has summarized 6 pests and diseases of calendula. Let's continue reading below.
2. Pest and disease control of calendula
1. Aphids
As one of the main pests of flowers, aphids also attack calendula. It is understood that aphids mainly appear in large numbers in spring, sucking the sap of calendula branches and leaves; they also appear in autumn, harming the buds and petals of calendula. Damage symptoms: calendula leaves turn yellow and deformed, flower buds are ruined, and the flowering period is shortened.
Control method: after discovering aphids, at home you can wipe them off with clean water or soapy water, which works well. When the infestation is severe, spray a 1000-2000 times diluted omethoate solution, or use tobacco leaf water to kill them: add 50 grams of tobacco leaves to 5 kilograms of water and boil it.
2. Red spider mites
Red spider mites mostly occur in the high-temperature summer season and are one of the main pests of calendula. They mainly appear on the underside of leaves, piercing and sucking branches and leaves. Damage symptoms: calendula leaves become dry and yellow, and during the flowering period they harm the petals, causing flowers to wither.
Control method: when red spider mites are found, rinse the entire calendula plant thoroughly with a large amount of water, then spray 80% dichlorvos 1000 times solution, or 40% dicofol 1000-1500 times solution, both of which have significant effects.
3. Spilosoma oblique
One of the pests and diseases of calendula, it rarely appears in home cultivation. Its larvae mainly chew the leaf mesophyll, damage in scattered groups, and nibble away the leaves. Damage symptoms: leaves are incomplete with holes, and the calendula is completely disfigured.
Control method: Spilosoma oblique has a small density and weak pesticide resistance, so when there are few, they can be removed manually. When there are many insects, spray a mixed solution of Guoguang Yike 1500 times solution + Leke 2000 times solution. It can be used 1-2 times consecutively, with an interval of 7-10 days, and the effect is good.
4. Powdery mildew
Powdery mildew is one of the main diseases of calendula. After infection, the leaves look disgusting and their ornamental value is seriously affected. Symptoms: white round spots appear on both the front and back of the leaves, and the leaf surface looks as if covered with a layer of white powder. The stems are also covered with white powder. In severe cases, the entire plant withers and dies.
Control method: after flowering, promptly remove fallen leaves and spent flowers to reduce sources of infection. When the disease is severe, spray thiophanate-methyl 1500 times solution or rust-removing wettable powder once every 10-15 days, and results can be seen after 2-3 consecutive applications.
5. Mosaic disease
One of the pests and diseases of calendula, it mainly harms the leaves. Symptoms: calendula leaves form mottled or mosaic patterns, leaves turn yellow, plant growth is inhibited and dwarfed, and flowers grow deformed.
Control method: when the above symptoms are found, spray 0.5% antiviral agent No. 1 aqueous solution 300 times solution or 5% JunDuQing aqueous solution 400-500 times solution for control, once every 7-10 days, and results can be seen after 2-3 consecutive sprays.
6. Rust disease
In summer, under high temperature and high humidity, calendula is prone to rust disease. Symptoms: diseased leaves show rust-colored spots, causing defoliation and poor growth. In severe cases, calendula quickly withers and dies due to massive evaporation of water from within the plant.
Control method: once the above symptoms are found, the leaves should be removed promptly to reduce sources of infection. In addition, 50% carboxin wettable powder 2000 times solution should also be sprayed promptly for control.
That is all the editor has to introduce about pest and disease control of calendula. I believe everyone now knows what to do when calendula gets pests or becomes sick! Overall, calendula is rarely troubled by pests and diseases, so as long as everyone cares for it carefully, these troublesome matters will not come knocking. Finally, may everyone's calendula bloom with beautiful flowers.
When is the flowering period of Madagascar periwinkle? A flower-loving expert teaches you a few points of flower-growing knowledge
Madagascar periwinkle, also called golden chrysanthemum and four-season spring, is a small, elegant and unique flower. Although it does not have the grace of a peony, the splendor of a rose, or the fragrance of an osmanthus. It is simple and elegant, with diverse colors, and is a flower deeply loved by people. Its leaves are bright green, full, and have fine veins. The leaf stalks are relatively thin, hairless or with a small amount of hair, and are relatively smooth.
Madagascar periwinkle is so lovely. Do you know when its flowering period is? From its name you can guess that Madagascar periwinkle can bloom all year round. One flower can bloom for three to five days, a single branch can bear three flowers, and a single plant can grow many branches. So you can see clusters of Madagascar periwinkle filling flower pots or gardens. If you want Madagascar periwinkle to bloom well, you also need to pay attention to the following aspects.
The first is sunlight. Madagascar periwinkle is originally a plant that grows in tropical and Mediterranean coastal regions, and it likes light and high temperatures. Therefore, growing Madagascar periwinkle first requires ensuring sufficient light. Rainy areas and areas with insufficient light are not suitable for planting it. If growing Madagascar periwinkle in pots, move it to the balcony every day to receive about 8 hours of sunlight, and on cloudy and rainy days place it in a dry indoor spot.
Because it cannot tolerate cold, attention should be paid to keeping it warm in winter and when the weather turns cool. After noon, move Madagascar periwinkle to a warm indoor place, and it must not be exposed to cold wind, otherwise it is easily damaged or even dies. Although it is relatively tolerant of high temperatures, it must not be exposed to full sun in summer. Because this easily causes water deficiency, making the leaves wilt and the flowers fade, so placing it in partial shade is best.
The second is water. Because Madagascar periwinkle is relatively tolerant of high temperatures and likes dryness, it is not easy to overwater. As long as the soil is not too hard or powdery, you do not need to water. In hot summer weather, you can water more, but pay attention to the amount and do not let it become waterlogged. Choose flower pots with good drainage, and pay attention to drainage when planting outdoors as well. In spring, autumn and winter, depending on the plant's condition, watering once or twice a week is enough.
The third is soil. Madagascar periwinkle is suitable for relatively fertile soil with good drainage and aeration. With this kind of soil, the flowers bloom abundantly and large, and are very beautiful. However, it is also relatively tolerant of poor soil, as long as the soil is not alkaline. Unsuitable soil will lead to poor plant growth, thin and yellow leaves, and even failure to bloom.
The fourth is fertilizing. Although Madagascar periwinkle is relatively small, if you want it to grow well and bloom abundantly, regular fertilizing is needed. Potted Madagascar periwinkle can use liquid fertilizer, which ensures nutrients without causing root burn. For large outdoor plantings, an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer can be applied to increase the nutrients and energy needed for growth, making the plants grow lush and the flowers bloom abundantly and well.
The fifth is the problem of pests. Because Madagascar periwinkle itself has a certain toxicity, ordinary insects do not dare approach it. However, Madagascar periwinkle seedlings need prevention and control of various common diseases. For example, damping-off disease and gray mold at the seedling stage. Spraying chemicals has a certain effect on preventing and controlling such diseases, but be careful not to spray too much, as it will harm the plants. You should also often help Madagascar periwinkle catch insects to prevent leaves and flowers from being bitten and damaged.
Finally, pruning. If the branches and leaves of Madagascar periwinkle grow too tall, it will also affect the flowering effect. Especially for potted Madagascar periwinkle, it will also affect its appearance. Therefore, it should be pinched back regularly so that the branches produce more new shoots and more flowers. For those withered or leftover flowers, they should also be removed promptly so as not to affect the appearance.
[Detailed guide to growing vegetables and flowers on the balcony] Seed selection, breeding, soil cultivation, pest control~
Complete guide to balcony vegetable growing 1: What vegetables to grow on the balcony?"Growing flowers is good, growing vegetables is even better." If flowers are grown well, they can be enjoyed; if vegetables are grown well, you not only get to eat your own pollution-free vegetables, but the green branches, green leaves and abundant fruits can also become a beautiful scene. Below is an introduction to the knowledge, methods and tips of balcony vegetable growing one by one. First, an introduction to what vegetables are suitable for growing on the balcony.
Choose vegetables according to orientation
The orientation determines the sunlight opportunities of the balcony, while whether the balcony is enclosed determines its temperature opportunities.
A fully enclosed balcony also has a relatively high temperature in winter and is less limited by temperature, so the range of vegetables that can be chosen is also very wide, and vegetables can be planted all year round. A semi-enclosed or unenclosed balcony has a relatively low temperature in winter, so it is usually not easy to plant vegetables in winter. In summer, when direct sunlight makes the temperature too high, care should also be taken to provide shade to protect the vegetables.
More importantly, the orientation of the balcony. Where temperature permits, vegetables are usually chosen according to the balcony orientation.
A south-facing balcony has full sun, sufficient sunlight and particularly good ventilation, making it the most ideal balcony for growing vegetables. Almost all vegetables grow best under full-sun conditions. For this reason, vegetables can usually be grown all year round on a south-facing balcony, such as cucumber, bitter melon, tomato, kidney bean, daylily, New Zealand spinach, mustard greens, zucchini, green pepper, lettuce, Chinese chives, etc. In addition, aquatic vegetables such as lotus root, water chestnut and water caltrop can also be grown on a south-facing balcony. In winter, most places on a south-facing balcony can receive direct sunlight. With the addition of simple insulation equipment, this can also create a particularly good environment for producing vegetables in winter.
East-facing and west-facing balconies have partial sun and can be used to grow light-loving and shade-tolerant vegetables, such as onion, leaf lettuce, baby bok choy, Chinese chives, loofah, cilantro, radish, etc. However, a west-facing balcony has a relatively high temperature during afternoon sun exposure in summer, which can cause sunscald in some vegetables, with mild cases resulting in leaf drop and severe cases resulting in death. For this reason, it is best to plant vining heat-tolerant vegetables in the corners of the balcony. In summer, measures should also be taken to defend against strong light and reflected radiation from buildings behind.
A north-facing balcony has almost no sunlight all day, and the range of vegetables to choose from is the smallest. Shade-tolerant vegetables should be chosen for planting, such as lettuce, Chinese chives, asparagus, Chinese toon, dandelion, water spinach, Malabar spinach, etc. In summer, measures should also be taken to defend against strong light and reflected radiation from buildings behind.
Which vegetables are most suitable for growing on a balcony?
Short-cycle fast-growing vegetables: baby bok choy, green garlic, sprouting vegetables, mustard greens, bok choy, leaf lettuce
Vegetables with a long harvest period: tomato, chili pepper, Chinese chives, coriander, cilantro, scallion, etc.
Space-saving vegetables: carrot, radish, lettuce, scallion, ginger, cilantro
Easy-to-grow vegetables: bitter melon, carrot, ginger, scallion, lettuce, baby bok choy
Vegetables less prone to pests: scallion, Chinese chives, sweet potato leaves, ginseng herb, aloe, Swiss chard
What vegetables should beginners choose?
Beginners can choose easy-to-grow vegetables or fast-growing vegetables. For example, bok choy and leaf lettuce are two fast-growing vegetables that can be planted all year round and grow relatively quickly, taking about five or six weeks to harvest. Bitter melon, scallion, ginger, etc. have strong adaptability and a special smell of their own. For this reason, insects do not like to approach them, and they can grow quite well without pesticides or chemical fertilizers.
Where to buy seeds and seedlings?
Usually, the needed seeds or seedlings can be found at farm households, garden stores, flower markets, vegetable markets, agricultural markets, seed retail outlets and other places.
Complete guide to balcony vegetable growing 2: What containers to use for growing vegetables?
Almost any type of container can be used to grow vegetables, as long as it is sturdy enough and can provide sufficient space and drainage channels. In addition to traditional containers such as flower pots and flower troughs, many household items can be used after modification, such as plastic basins, buckets, flower boxes, flower troughs, wooden boxes, aluminum boxes, galvanized iron boxes, plastic boxes, jars, food cans, and even bathtubs, tires, burlap bags, barbecue trays, etc. No matter what container is chosen, make sure there are drainage holes at the bottom.
Household items such as basins, buckets, boxes, jars, baskets and pots can all be used to grow vegetables
Tuber vegetables such as potatoes can be grown in bags
Scallions, Chinese chives, garlic sprouts, etc. can be grown in baking trays
Tires, burlap bags, etc. are also good containers for growing vegetables
Drainage holes
No matter what kind of container is chosen for growing vegetables, drainage holes must be ensured at the bottom to ensure smooth drainage. Container drainage is very important. Poor drainage causes plant roots to suffocate and rot; drainage that is too fast can also cause plants to lack water and wither and die. Professional containers such as flower pots and flower troughs bought on the market all have drainage holes at the bottom. For containers modified from household items, you need to drill a few drainage holes yourself. Usually, you can evenly drill a few drainage holes with a diameter of 0.5-25px near the bottom.
To avoid soil loss when watering, you can "cushion the pot," that is, use broken flower pot pieces, tiles or window screen to cover the drainage holes, requiring that the drainage holes be blocked. To promote drainage, place some coarse gravel or small stones on top of the pot cushioning material to keep drainage smooth.
For vining plants such as cucumber and kidney bean, you can install a "cage" on the flower pot as support
Material
Generally speaking, ceramic and wooden containers drain faster than plastic containers and need more watering. Do not place plastic containers by the window, because plastic vessels are lightweight and easily blown over by wind. Do not use wooden containers that have undergone high-pressure treatment. Chemical preservatives are added during the high-pressure treatment process. Although this method enables the treated wood to avoid attack by termites, decay and other harmful factors for a very long time, the wood itself also contains toxic substances that can poison plants. If making your own wooden container, it is best to use rot-resistant wood such as pine and fir.
Color
Use black containers with caution, because black absorbs heat and may damage plant roots. If a black container is chosen, it is best to apply a layer of lighter-colored paint, or simply shade the container to avoid direct sunlight.
Size
Container size is very important. When growing vegetables, choose larger rather than smaller. A larger container not only has ample space for fertilizer, but also holds more water, so it will not dry out too quickly in summer. Tomatoes, chili peppers, kidney beans, etc. need larger containers; usually a container of about 15-20 liters is enough. When buying seeds and seedlings, it is best to ask the seller what size container is needed, how to water and fertilize, and so on.
Complete guide to balcony vegetable growing 3: Soil and fertilizer
Soilless cultivation
So-called soilless cultivation does not need soil, but instead uses substrates (including rock wool, peat, vermiculite, perlite, bark, sawdust, water, etc.) and nutrient solution to cultivate plants. Soilless cultivation not only grows fast, has high yield and good quality, but also has fewer pests and diseases, is sanitary and neat, and only requires watering with nutrient solution, making management very convenient.
Soil cultivation using potting soil
Home vegetable growing can also use soil cultivation methods. Soil cultivation is relative to soilless cultivation and also has its advantages, such as strong buffering capacity for pH, very good fertilizer and water retention capacity, and the activities of various beneficial bacteria are conducive to plant growth. Home vegetable growing usually uses organically cultivated potting soil. This potting soil can be bought at agricultural markets, and special potting soil can be selected according to the type of vegetable.
What is potting soil? What types of potting soil are there?
In order to meet the needs of flowers, especially potted flowers, for growth and development, according to the different soil requirements of various varieties, soil specially formulated artificially that contains rich nutrients, has particularly good drainage and permeability (aeration) performance, can retain moisture and fertilizer, does not crack when dry, does not stick when wet, and does not crust after watering is called potting soil.
There are many types of potting soil. The commonly used ones are the following:
Leaf mold
Made by piling and fermenting fallen leaves, dry grass, vegetable peelings, etc. until decomposed. Put these raw materials into a pit, layer by layer with one layer of leaves (or dry grass, vegetable peelings), one layer of garden soil, and sprinkle some livestock or poultry manure and urine, repeating for several layers, then cover with soil and seal the top. After more than half a year, mix the decomposed leaves, etc. with the garden soil, then sift, dry in the sun, and store for later use. This potting soil is rich in humus, has excellent physical properties, is beneficial for fertilizer retention and drainage, and is loose and acidic.
Barnyard manure soil
Barnyard manure is made by piling and fermenting cow manure, horse manure, pig manure, sheep manure, poultry manure with soil and weeds until decomposed. After decomposition, it should also be dried in the sun and sifted before use. It contains nutrients and humus.
Garden soil and field mud
Garden soil and field mud refer to the surface soil in gardens or fields. They are also mature soil used for cultivating crops that has been piled, sun-dried and then placed indoors for later use.
Pond mud
Pond mud is used more in the south. Dig out pond mud and make it into thin blocks, dry them in the sun and store for later use. When using, break the thin blocks into pieces. Its advantages are that it is rich in fertilizer and has good drainage performance, and it is neutral or slightly alkaline.
Rice husk ash
Rice husk ash is mainly the ash from burning rice husks or rice straw, also called plant ash. It loosens the soil, helps drainage, contains potassium fertilizer, and is slightly alkaline.
Yellow sand
Usually river sand is used in potting soil to help drainage and aeration. Before use, it needs to be rinsed with clean water to remove salt before use.
Sawdust
After sawdust is piled and fermented until decomposed, it is blended with soil to make the potting soil loose and give it particularly good water retention. It is a newly developed potting soil raw material in recent years.
Brick residue
Breaking tiles or bricks into pieces helps drainage and aeration, but it lacks fertilizer.
Garbage soil
Garbage soil is called "returned-soul soil." It is made from waste soil after repotting, supplemented with manure and piled up. After this soil is decomposed, sift it and dry it in the sun for later use.
How to formulate potting soil?
Because various plants have different nutrient requirements, degrees of acid and alkali tolerance, and requirements for drainage and aeration, the formulation proportions also differ. The fundamental requirements for potting soil should understand the following principles:
① Have an appropriate proportion of nutrients, including trace elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
② Require looseness, aeration and good drainage.
③ Be free of pests, diseases and other harmful substances that endanger the growth of flowers and trees, such as insect pupae.
④ Remove impurities such as grass roots and stones, sift, and carry out general disinfection, such as exposure to sunlight or heating and steaming.
Several potting soil formulation methods suitable for the potted needs of different plants are as follows:
?Soil for sowing and seedlings
2 parts leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, a small amount of barnyard manure, and a small amount of sand. Or 1 part leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, 1 part rice husk ash, and a small amount of barnyard manure.
Soil for general potted flowers
1 part leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, 0.5 part rice husk ash, 0.5 part barnyard manure soil. Or 1 part leaf mold, 1.5 parts garden soil, 0.5 part barnyard manure soil
Soil for shade- and moisture-tolerant plants
0.5 part leaf mold, 2 parts garden soil, 1 part barnyard manure soil, 0.5 part rice husk ash.
Soil for cuttings
Because cuttings do not need nutrients before rooting, yellow sand or vermiculite is often used. For example, use 1 part garden soil and 1 part rice husk ash; or 1 part garden soil and 1 part leaf mold is also acceptable. For certain flowers, using only rice husk ash for cuttings is also acceptable.
Soil for acid-loving plants
Use mountain soil or leaf mold plus garden soil and a small amount of yellow sand.
Soil for succulents
You can use 0.5 part yellow sand, 0.5 part garden soil, and 1 part leaf mold. Or use 1 part brick residue and 1 part garden soil.
Soil for camellia, azalea and banana shrub
2 parts leaf mold, 1.5 parts yellow mud, 0.5 part charred mud ash, 1 part sand, plus a small amount of bone meal, etc.
Soil for orchids
At present, black mountain soil is mostly used, that is, leaf mold naturally accumulated from fallen leaves in mountain forests, or a small amount of yellow sand can be added to the leaf mold.
In addition, there are the following methods for preparing soil types:
Loose soil
2 parts garden soil, 1 part rice hull ash. Suitable for cuttings.
Light fertile soil
1 part garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part manure soil. Suitable for plants with weaker root development and for tiny seeds.
Heavy fertile soil
2 parts garden soil, 1 part leaf mold, 1 part manure. Can be used for the cultivation of common flowers.
Clay fertile soil
2 parts garden soil, 1 part manure soil. Suitable for cultivating plants with thick large roots such as palms and cycads (sago palms), as well as rhizomatous plants.
What fertilizer to use for growing vegetables at home?
Fertilizing vegetables in soilless cultivation is the easiest - just watering with nutrient solution is enough. The preparation of soilless cultivation nutrient solution requires many elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulfur, as well as trace elements such as iron, manganese, boron, zinc, copper and molybdenum. Nutrient solution formulas include special ones for different plants and general ones for some plants; they can all be bought in agricultural supply markets, and you can follow the instructions on the label, or prepare them according to experience and then water with them.
Watering with nutrient solution is the main part of soilless cultivation. The principle of standard nutrient solution watering is to water on sunny days and not on rainy days; water less in the early growth stage and more in the fruiting stage. The nutrient solution can be recovered and reused; usually the nutrient solution is completely replaced once about every 20 days.
For soil cultivation, conventional fertilizers can be used, and nutrient solution can also be used. If using conventional fertilizers, it is best to choose organic fertilizers, including plant-based fertilizers and animal manure, etc.; avoid chemical fertilizers as much as possible, because chemical fertilizers can leave acid radicals or salt radicals, and the potting soil can become acidic or alkaline, hindering plant growth. Various special organic fertilizers are available in agricultural supply markets, and you can choose a suitable organic fertilizer according to the type of vegetable.
Making organic compost from kitchen waste at home
The method for making homemade organic fertilizer compost is very easy: first spread broken tiles or window screen, etc. on the bottom layer of the planting container to line the pot, then cover with about 50px of soil, then place the drained kitchen waste in the container (about 75px), then cover with a layer of thick soil (about 6-225px). The compost is then made, and you can sow and plant in this container.
Tips for fertilizing
1. If the vegetables need to be transplanted, wait until after transplanting before watering with nutrient solution.
2. If the vegetables are directly sown and do not need transplanting, then first water with tap water to keep the soil moist; only after the seeds germinate and the seedlings emerge can nutrient solution be used.
3. Although different plants have different water requirements, fundamentally watering with nutrient solution once a day is very suitable. If they are leafy vegetables, you can water with nutrient solution twice a day.
4. Water less nutrient solution in the early growth stage and more in the fruiting stage.
5. It is recommended to thoroughly rinse the planting container with tap water only at least once a week to remove unused fertilizer accumulated in the container. The specific method is to pour a sufficient amount of water into the container so that free drainage forms at the bottom. This measure can prevent the accumulation of harmful substances in the growing medium.
6. Sometimes, vegetables can be watered with nutrient solution supplemented with trace elements. You can choose water-soluble fertilizers containing iron, zinc, boron and manganese, and operate according to the instructions on the label.
Caution: Abusing nutrient solution may carry the risk of causing excessive nitrate levels in vegetables.
Complete Guide to Growing Vegetables on the Balcony Part Four: Sowing and Transplanting
There are two ways to plant vegetables: one is to raise seedlings first and then transplant, and the other is direct sowing. Beginners often prefer to buy seedlings directly from agricultural supply markets and take them home to transplant. This is a quick and easy method, but it may limit your planting range, because some vegetables such as beans and radishes are not convenient to transplant and can only be direct-sown - transplanting can damage normal root development, so they cannot be transplanted. Some vegetables, however, must be transplanted, such as cabbage, cauliflower, mustard greens and eggplant.
Vegetable cultivation can basically be divided into four processes: pre-sowing seed treatment, sowing, transplanting and harvesting. The table below shows growth information for common home-grown vegetables. Because vegetable varieties differ and regions differ, the table below may differ from your actual practice, and for this reason it is only for reference. What is important is to observe keenly during the process, understand the patterns of the vegetables, and once familiar with it, you will surely become an excellent "vegetable grower"!
Cultivation information for common home-grown vegetables
Vegetable | Germination time (days) | Optimal transplanting stage (weeks) | Container size | Light amount* | Harvest time (days)
Green beans 5-8 - Medium Full sun 45-65
Cucumber 5-8 3-4 Large Full sun 50-70
Eggplant 8-12 6-8 Large Full sun 90-120
Leaf lettuce 6-8 3-4 Medium Partial sun 45-60
Onion 6-8 6-8 Small Partial sun 80-100
Green pepper 10-14 6-8 Large Full sun 90-120
Radish 4-6 - Small Partial sun 20-60
Pumpkin 5-7 3-4 Large Full sun 50-70
Tomato 7-10 5-6 Large Full sun 90-130
Chives 9-12 6-8 Medium Partial sun 90-120
Cilantro 5-7 3-4 Small Partial sun 40-50
Baby bok choy 4-6 3-4 Medium Partial sun 40-50
Caution: All vegetables grow best in full sun; "partial sun" means the vegetable can also grow very well under partial sun.
Pre-sowing seed treatment
Disinfection
Seeds often carry bacteria. To reduce seedling-stage diseases, ensure the vegetable seedlings grow strong, let yourself and your family eat healthy vegetables, and avoid your work being wasted halfway, it is best to carry out simple disinfection treatment on the seeds before sowing. Usually for seeds bought from the market, the warm water soaking method is sufficient. Place the seeds in hot water at 60°C and soak for 10-15 minutes, then lower the water temperature to 30°C and continue soaking for 3-4 hours, then take them out and dry them. For seeds with unclean surfaces, those stored for a very long time, or those already contaminated, the medicinal solution soaking method can be used. Usually use 100-fold formalin solution: first soak the seeds in clean water for 3-4 hours, then place them in the medicinal solution and soak for 20 minutes, then take them out and rinse clean with clean water.
Sprouting
Whether seeds need sprouting depends on the situation. Seeds of fruiting vegetables such as tomato, pepper, eggplant and cucumber germinate relatively slowly and can be sprouted. Before sprouting, the seeds must be soaked, but the soaking time should not be too long. Through testing, soaking cucumber for 1-2 hours, and pepper, eggplant and tomato for 3-4 hours is relatively suitable (including the water soaking time during seed disinfection treatment). , line the bottom of the seedling tray with several layers of gauze, filter paper or absorbent paper towel, moisten with clean water, drain the soaked seeds, place them in the seedling tray, and place in an environment of 28-30°C for 1-5 days, until the seeds germinate and show white, then they can be sown. During sprouting, if the seeds are dry, add water to the seedling tray to keep the gauze and other bedding materials moist and keep the seeds moist.
Sowing
For direct sowing, just sow the seeds directly into a suitably sized planting container. For those needing transplanting, first choose moderately sized containers such as plastic trays or glass trays as the "seedling tray". Put culture soil with a moderate pH into the container (available at garden stores or agricultural supply markets), scatter the vegetable seeds into the container, then cover with soil 0.5-25px deep. Remember that seeds that are too deep will not germinate.
Suitable temperature, sufficient water and oxygen are the three essential elements for seed germination. Place the container in a relatively warm and well-ventilated place, and water appropriately (for most vegetable seeds, watering once a day is appropriate).
Before sowing, it is best to disinfect the sowing tray with 50% bleach or another disinfectant to reduce the chance of contaminating the seeds.
Transplanting
When the seedlings reach a certain size, they must be moved to other containers for planting in time. For tomato, eggplant, etc., usually when there are 4-5 true leaves; for melons, no more than 2-3 true leaves; for cabbage and Chinese cabbage types, transplant at 4-6 true leaves.
When transplanting, be careful not to damage the tender roots of the seedlings. Before digging up the vegetable seedlings, water the soil or medium sufficiently so the roots carry more soil or medium. This not only reduces damage to the roots, but also reduces increased water absorption capacity, and after transplanting they survive quickly. Usually for leafy vegetables, the planting depth should be such that the lowest leaves are not buried, otherwise it easily causes rot.
Vegetables can be grown in soil or by soilless cultivation. For these two different growing media, the methods of fertilizing and watering are largely the same; see "Complete Guide to Growing Vegetables on the Balcony Part Three: Soil and Fertilizer" for details.
Harvesting
The happiest moment is harvest time, when you find that the vegetables you carefully watered have grown from seedlings into glossy green leaves and abundant fruits. Picking the fruits of your own hard work lets you enjoy beautiful green food!
When harvesting, be careful to judge whether the vegetables are mature and at the best picking moment by features such as color, texture and firmness. Some vegetables such as tomato, pepper and fruits should be harvested when the fruit reaches a certain firmness; overripe they become soft. Cucumber, green beans, etc. should be harvested while young and tender, when the taste is better.
It is best to harvest vegetables in the evening, because in the evening the nitrate nitrogen content in the vegetables is lowest.
When harvesting bok choy, chives, etc., you can pick the leaves to eat without pulling up the whole plant; after some time, tender new leaves will still grow.
When harvesting scallions, leave two or three in the soil and do not pull up the whole plant, so that they can continue to divide, sprout and grow.
Complete Guide to Growing Vegetables on the Balcony Part Five: Diagnosis and Prevention of Common Diseases and Pests
Vegetables grown in containers, like vegetables grown in the ground, may also be attacked by various diseases and pests. Carefully observe whether organs such as leaves and stems of the vegetables are growing well and whether pests appear. Once a problem is found, first distinguish whether it is an environmental issue such as water, light or temperature, or a medium fertility issue. After ruling out these factors, then determine whether it is disease or pest damage.
Common problems in container vegetable growing and their prevention and control measures
Symptom, cause, measure
Plant spindly, elongated, not fruiting: ① Insufficient light; move the container to a place with sufficient light. ② Excess nitrogen; reduce the nutrient content in the nutrient solution.
Plant yellowing from the bottom, lacking vitality, dull color: ① Overwatering. Reduce watering frequency and check whether container drainage is smooth. ② Insufficient fertility; increase the nutrient content in the nutrient solution.
Although watered sufficiently, the plant still wilts: ① Poor drainage and ventilation; increase the drainage holes in the container; ② Increase the organic matter content in the growing medium.
Vegetable leaves with scorched edges: The medium has high salt content; regularly wash the container with tap water.
Plant grows slowly, weak resistance, slightly purple: ① Low temperature; place the container in a warmer place. ② Low phosphate; increase the phosphate content in the nutrient solution.
Leaves distorted or with gaps: Pest damage; spray environmentally friendly insecticide.
Yellow spots, blight spots, powdery spots or rust spots on leaves: Disease; remove the affected parts and spray environmentally friendly fungicide.
After confirming that the vegetables have a disease or pest problem, you can continue to refer to the text below to diagnose which disease and pest it is, then go to a garden store to buy the corresponding insecticide or fungicide, and then apply the right remedy.
Methods for diagnosing vegetable pests
Vegetable diseases and pests can be diagnosed by identifying the morphological features of the pests at each stage, or by diagnosing pest residues. Pest residues include egg shells, pupal shells, shed skins, residual pest hairs and dead pest bodies, as well as pest excrement such as feces, honeydew substances, silk webs and foamy substances.
1. Leaves are eaten, forming gaps. Mostly eaten by Lepidoptera larvae and Coleoptera pests with chewing mouthparts.
2. There are linear stripes or gray-white, gray-yellow spots on the leaves. This symptom is mostly caused by piercing-sucking mouthpart pests, such as leaf miners or stink bugs.
3. Vegetable seedlings are bitten or cut off. Mostly done by crickets or leaf moths.
4. Honeydew secretion and sooty mold. Such pests, through their feeding, cause honeydew-like excrement to cover the vegetable surface and create black spots; mainly sap-sucking and fluid-excreting pests, such as various aphids.
5. Heart leaves shrink and thicken. This symptom mostly appears on sweet peppers and chili peppers, and is related to mite pests.
6. Damage inside the vegetable body. Such pests usually enter the vegetable body and are very difficult to find from the outside. If fresh pest feces are found on or near the vegetable plant and there are fresh pest holes on the plant, then it can be judged that the pests are damaging inside the vegetable body. Sometimes although there are feces and eggs, if the feces and eggs have already dried up, it indicates that the pests have already moved elsewhere. Such pests are mostly moth pests and larvae.
7. The upper part of the vegetable seedling wilts and dies. This indicates that the vegetable roots have been damaged, and this is mostly caused by underground pests, such as mole crickets, root mites, root-knot nematodes, etc.
8. Bulbous fruits are bored and eaten and rot. For example, underground tubers of potato, onion and garlic rot or are bored and eaten during growth and storage; these are mostly caused by weevils, root mites, etc.
Based on these features, identify the pests and take corresponding prevention and control measures. First rule out the influence of other factors, such as excessive fertilizer or water causing the upper part of vegetable seedlings to wilt and die.
Cultivating children's interest in planting
When children grow flowers and plants, the flowers and plants can also educate them. Growing flowers and vegetables can let children understand that plants, like people, also need food and water to grow and stay healthy. Caring for plants not only helps cultivate children's sense of responsibility, but can also stimulate children's curiosity and imagination. Let children immerse themselves in the wonders of nature such as seed germination, flower blooming, bees collecting nectar and insects pollinating, and guide your child to explore the mysteries of nature.
Create a small "garden" for your child
Set aside a small piece of land in the garden for your child as his (her) garden, and make it clear that this is his (her) own territory and cannot be occupied. This helps cultivate the child's sense of responsibility and independence. Usually for children under 10 years old, one square meter is enough. If there is no garden, you can prepare several flower pots and other planting containers and place them on the balcony or windowsill; they can likewise become a "garden" the child loves.
Discuss with your child where to build the "garden"
Discuss with your child where the "garden" should be located. This process is a good opportunity to let your child understand that plant growth needs sunlight, water and fertile soil! Then choose a suitable location together with your child.
Choose gardening tools specially for children
Choose gardening tools with a size suitable for children to use, to ensure safety and convenience when children carry out gardening activities
Carefully choose plants that are easy to grow, easy to keep alive and interesting
Children are very easily discouraged, so it is very important to ensure that his (her) first planting experience is successful and also fruitful. First choose some plants that are easy to grow, easy to keep alive and grow very fast. Large-seeded plants such as sunflower, zinnia, pea and pumpkin are the easiest to grow and grow very fast. Although radish seeds are not large, they grow very fast and are also favored by children. On the basis of being easy to grow, you can choose some interesting plants to attract the child's attention and maintain their enthusiasm for planting.
?Choose bright and eye-catching flowers.
Children like things that are good-looking and vivid. For this reason, you can choose those bright and eye-catching flowers, such as impatiens, moss rose, dahlia, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, autumn chrysanthemum, periwinkle, begonia, cockscomb, five-pointed star flower, morning glory, ageratum, sweet alyssum, phlox, etc.
Choose fruits and vegetables that children like.
If what they grow themselves can finally be eaten, this is also very attractive to children. You can choose to grow some fruits and vegetables, such as carrot, radish, cucumber, potato, pepper, tomato, cauliflower, cherry, apricot, strawberry, etc.
Choose aromatic plants.
Plants release fragrance to attract insects for pollination or to prevent pests from eating their leaves. These fragrances may also attract your child. You can also grow some aromatic plants such as lavender, mint, vanilla and basil.
Endless fun
Besides growing flowers and vegetables, there is also a lot of fun. For example, you can teach children to make insect specimens, make leaf specimens, collect seeds, and even make fertilizer themselves. These processes are all good opportunities for children to understand nature, cultivate hands-on ability and stimulate imagination.
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