What to Do When Amaryllis Gets Pests? Keep the Environment Clean and Practice Good Pest and Disease Control

Pests and diseases are enormously harmful to any plant, and amaryllis is certainly no exception. Although amaryllis has strong adaptability, pest and disease problems are still hard to avoid, so what should you do when amaryllis gets pests? Let's take a look at the methods for controlling amaryllis pests and diseases.

What to Do When Amaryllis Gets Pests

1. White Peach Scale

There are many causes of white peach scale on amaryllis; temperature, light, wind, rain and so on are all contributing factors. For example, excessively high temperatures or excessively low humidity can bring it on. Once white peach scale appears, it needs to be controlled promptly.

[Control method]: During the dormant period, you can spray 3~5.5°Bé lime sulfur mixture, which provides good preventive control against white peach scale; if an infestation appears, you can spray Jie Bi Zhi (a scale insecticide) and similar products. In addition, pay attention to environmental cleanliness and do not let the temperature get too high.

2. Aphids

Aphids usually appear on the flower buds of amaryllis. They pierce the inner tissue of the buds with their mouthparts to suck sap and leave black spots on the buds, which in turn causes the leaves to turn yellow and drop, and the buds fail to open.

[Control method]: Spray with a 1500-fold solution of 40% dimethoate or omethoate; you can also spray with a 3000-fold solution of fenvalerate, spraying once a week. Generally 2-3 sprays are enough to clear the aphids.

Amaryllis Pest and Disease Control

1. Nematode disease

[Symptoms]: The leaves, flower stalks and other parts of the amaryllis are affected first, then the disease spreads toward the base, for example the bulb is also affected. Nematode disease causes the leaves to wither and yellow and impedes root growth, and in severe cases it can cause the amaryllis to die.

[Control method]: Soak the fresh bulbs for 3 hours in 43°C warm water with 0.5% formalin added. If the disease is relatively severe, you can spray with a 1000-fold solution of 40% dicofol emulsifiable concentrate.

2. Leaf spot disease

[Symptoms]: Round reddish-brown spots appear on the leaves, flowers and bulbs. It occurs most in autumn and is one of the most damaging diseases in amaryllis pest and disease control.

[Control method]: Disinfect the roots before planting, for example by soaking them in a 0.5% formalin solution for 2 hours. In addition, pay attention to balanced fertilization, which can improve the amaryllis's resistance to leaf spot disease.

3. Red leaf spot disease

[Symptoms]: Small purplish-brown spots appear at the leaf tips and leaf margins; the leaf margins also become raised and show obvious lines; the affected areas become sunken, and the leaves wither and yellow, gradually turning grayish-white.

[Control method]: Promptly remove the diseased leaves and burn them in a centralized manner. Spray the plants with a 600—800-fold solution of carbendazim for control, and pay attention to ventilation of the environment.

4. Verticillium wilt

[Symptoms]: The disease generally appears about one month after planting. First the lower leaves wilt, then they curl upward; afterward the diseased parts change from yellowish-white to yellow, and finally the upper leaves also become diseased and die.

[Control method]: Before planting, disinfect the soil and the plant roots. During fertilization, do not apply only nitrogen fertilizer; potassium fertilizer can improve the amaryllis's resistance to disease, so pay attention to balanced nutrient levels in the fertilizer.

How to Grow Several Common Flowers

How to Grow Several Common Flowers
1. Butterfly flower (Iris japonica)
Butterfly flower is a perennial herb in the genus Iris, family Iridaceae. It is distributed in nearly all provinces and regions of China, and also occurs in Japan.
The rhizome is relatively slender and weak, sits shallowly in the soil, grows horizontally, and is yellowish-brown. The leaves are sword-shaped, dark green and glossy. The flower stalks rise above the leaves; the flowers are numerous, arranged in a terminal, long and rather sparse raceme; the style has 3 branches, dark purple, enlarged into petal-like form, rolled back over the anthers. The flowering period is April to May. The common flower color of this species is light purple or light blue. It is suitable for naturalistic planting, and also for flower borders, flower beds and as cut flower material.
Ecological habits: It prefers shady, moist places and has strong adaptability and cold resistance. When grown outdoors over winter in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, the aboveground stems and leaves do not wither completely. It requires acidic soil and grows well in a moist, fertile, sunny environment.
Propagation: Mainly by division, generally once every 2-3 years. Division is best done after flowering or in autumn, which favors full plant growth and flower bud differentiation. Dig out the rhizome and divide it, then replant each section with 1-2 buds. For seed propagation, seeds germinate 4-6 weeks after sowing, and plants grown from seed take 2-3 years to flower.
Cultivation and pest control: Apply sufficient base fertilizer before planting; after planting, press the rhizome down firmly. Shallow planting is preferable; deep planting is not suitable. In early spring, clear away the remaining leaves to help new shoots sprout. During the vigorous growth period, water thoroughly and fertilize 1-2 times a month, which will produce abundant flowers and lush leaves. Keep the soil moist during flowering, but avoid waterlogging; apply one topdressing after flowering, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which benefits rhizome development; after the flowers fade and the rhizome enters dormancy, keep the soil dry. Common diseases include leaf blight and bacterial soft rot, mostly caused by the larvae of the owlet moth; these can be controlled by spraying with a 1000-fold solution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate. During the growing period, slugs and snails are also a problem; spray with 3% lime water in the evening.
Planting some flowers and trees around a farmhouse both improves the environment and beautifies daily life; with clever arrangement, the courtyard becomes a feast for the eyes.
Planting one or two osmanthus or wintersweet trees as specimens or in pairs in the courtyard is a traditional Chinese garden arrangement. In shady, damp spots by the wall, grow shade-tolerant flowers such as iris (commonly known as butterfly flower) and begonia, which will grow well even without careful management. For potted flowers on the balcony, small plants like Aglaia odorata and Chinese rose are more suitable. On the sunny side, you can plant sun-loving flowers such as chrysanthemums and scarlet sage; ample sunlight will help them grow even better. On the roof, cactus and Sansevieria (golden-edged lotus) still grow well even with long neglect. In places that need shade, you might plant a few grapevines, morning glories or Boston ivy by the window or along the fence. Even indoors, you can place a few pots of shade-tolerant asparagus fern or orchids on a desk or tea table. In this way, the farmhouse courtyard becomes colorful and full of life!
2. Cineraria
Cineraria is a perennial herbaceous plant in the family Asteraceae. The whole plant is densely covered with soft hairs. The leaves are arranged three to a whorl and are triangular; the leaves resemble cucumber leaves, hence the name cineraria (melon-leaf chrysanthemum). Its flowers are brilliantly colored and richly varied, including blue flowers that are very rarely seen indoors; moreover, the flowering period is long, lasting about 6 months, making it an ideal potted flower for holidays such as New Year's Day, Spring Festival and May 1st Labor Day, and a representative flower of winter and spring. However, it is not easy to grow cineraria potted plants with good plant form, beautiful leaf color and long flowering, so you must master the following key technical measures in cineraria cultivation.
Sowing time: Generally mid-August is chosen. Cineraria prefers a cool climate and cannot tolerate hot, high temperatures; the suitable growth temperature is 15°C-20°C. The sowing box should be placed under a shade shed or under tree shade; if sowing in beds, a shade shed must be built above the bed soil to reduce solar radiant heat.
Moisture control for seedlings: This is mainly done by spraying water mist to lower the temperature of the seedbed and supply water to the seedlings. The principle of spraying is that moistening is enough; the seedbed soil must not be too dry, nor too wet. If too dry, wilted seedlings are very hard to revive; if too wet, and with the seedlings in a high-temperature period, they easily suffer damping-off, resulting in a low seedling survival rate.
Preparation of growing medium: Cineraria prefers sandy soil rich in humus and well drained, with a pH of 6.5-7.5 being suitable. When preparing the sowing medium, mix unpolluted leaf mold or wood ash, pure loess and fine sand in a ratio of 3:1:1, then sift, and add no fertilizer at all. A medium prepared this way is beneficial for seed germination and growth. An overly sticky medium cannot withstand drying; once it cracks even slightly, it will snap the fine roots of the seedlings, causing seedling death and lowering the survival rate. The medium after pricking out can be the same as the sowing medium, to harden the seedlings. For the medium used at potting, evenly incorporate soybean cake, bone meal or superphosphate as base fertilizer, or prepare the medium with barnyard manure, wood ash, garden soil, rapeseed cake and fine sand in a ratio of 3:2:2:1:1, to ensure an adequate nutrient supply for the plants. The barnyard manure must be composted, rotted and sun-dried; the rapeseed cake must be crushed, and both must be thoroughly stirred and mixed and then sifted before being used as the planting medium.
Pay attention to temperature control: Cineraria prefers a cool climate; it fears cold in winter and high temperatures in summer. Therefore, in winter it should be grown in a greenhouse, generally kept above 10°C, and the room temperature should often be maintained at around 15°C for good growth. In summer, place the sowing box under a shade shed, or open a sowing bed under the shade shed, and water before 10:00 a.m. or after 5:00 p.m., which is more suitable; never water at noon, so that the seedlings can pass through the high-temperature period smoothly.
Pay attention to humidity control in winter: Cineraria has relatively high humidity requirements in order to grow well. How to keep humidity moderate in winter is the key to successfully growing cineraria. If it is too dry, the leaves of cineraria easily remain in a wilted state, which is bad for leaf growth, easily turns the leaves yellow, and also easily breeds red spider mites and aphids. If watered too much, and indoor humidity is too high, the roots, main stem and leaves easily rot, and aphids are also easily produced; if the room temperature is too high and ventilation is poor, diseases are easily produced.
3. Corn poppy
Corn poppy, also known as beautiful spring flower and spring all over the garden, is an annual or biennial herbaceous flower in the genus Papaver, family Papaveraceae. The plant height is 30 to 90 cm. The stem is slender, with weak branches; the leaves are alternate, irregularly pinnately lobed, with serrated edges; the whole plant has sparse hairs and milky sap. The flowers are solitary at the tips of the branches, with long pedicels; the buds droop, then straighten immediately when the flower opens. Most horticultural cultivars are double-flowered. The flower colors of corn poppy are extremely rich and brilliant, including vermilion, ink purple, bright pink, snow white, tricolor and so on. Each flower lasts only 1 to 2 days before dropping, but the buds are abundant and open in succession. The flowering period is May to June. The capsule is spherical; the fruit ripening period is July; the seeds are very small.
Corn poppy is native to Asia and Europe, and is also distributed in North America. It is cold-tolerant and suited to ample spring light and a cool climate; it cannot tolerate severe summer heat and humidity. It is usually sown in rows in flower beds in early winter. It is not demanding about soil, but loose, fertile sandy loam is best. The row spacing is 20 cm. After sowing, cover with plastic film, or sow in early spring when the ground surface has just thawed, and gradually remove the film after the seedlings emerge. Corn poppy is a taprooted flower; the roots are fine and deep, with few lateral roots. During the seedling stage, the root length often exceeds the plant height by about 1 times, so it cannot be transplanted. Even if transplanted with difficulty, the survival rate is very low. When row-sown seedlings are relatively dense, thin them out two or three times at intervals, maintaining a plant spacing of 10 to 15 cm. Corn poppy is not demanding about water and fertilizer, but it dislikes heavy water and heavy fertilizer and waterlogged soil.
Corn poppy is excellent material for flower beds, flower borders and flower strips. It can also be sown in pots in a greenhouse or cold frame in January, and moved out in late April for use as May 1st holiday flowers. For home flower growing, it can be cultivated on a south-facing enclosed balcony. In January, use a flower pot with an inner diameter of 20 cm, fill it more than half full with loose old potting soil, press it level, scatter 20 to 30 seeds, cover with soil just to the point where the seeds are no longer visible, and after sowing, soak the pot in water to moisten it. When the seedlings emerge, thin them several times, removing the weak and keeping the strong, and finally keep 3 to 5 plants to grow on. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, gradually fill in planting soil up to the rim to prevent the slender stems from lodging. Keep the light ample and the air fresh, with nighttime temperatures not below 5°C, and avoid drought and waterlogging; they will bloom in March, right through to May 1st.
The corn poppy and the opium poppy belong to the same family, and not only look similar but also have the same habits. The only differences are that the opium poppy has a larger plant form and fruit and is covered all over, while the corn poppy is smaller and covered all over with sparse hairs. However, the corn poppy is suspected by some people of being the drug opium. In fact, although the corn poppy contains milky sap in its body, its components do not contain laudanum. Its flowers can be made into a gargle with an antitussive effect, and its milky sap has pain-relieving and anti-diarrheal effects. On a warm, bright spring day, patches of corn poppies in courtyards and green spaces vie to show off their beauty, like rosy clouds or squares of silk handkerchiefs; when the breeze stirs them, both people and flowers feel as if they are floating.
4. Pocketbook flower (Calceolaria)
Pocketbook flower is a herbaceous plant in the genus Calceolaria, family Scrophulariaceae. The flower colors include yellow, purple, red, milky white, orange-red, dark brown and so on, and the flowers are adorned with colorful spots and markings, very lovely, and are often used for indoor decorative display. It blooms from December to February of the following year, and under greenhouse cultivation the flowering period is March to April.
Pocketbook flower is native to the Mexico and Chile region. It prefers cool, humid conditions and can grow at indoor winter temperatures of 3°C to 6°C. During the growing period it needs relatively high air humidity; pay attention to ventilation, and ample light is beneficial for the plant to flower.
Ventilation and shading: Pocketbook flower prefers cool conditions, with an optimum growth temperature of around 10°C. If the stems and leaves develop luxuriantly during the growing period, and the potting soil is too wet combined with muggy heat, the base of the plant will rot and the leaves will spoil. To lower the temperature, shading measures are often taken at noon to create a ventilated, cool environment. Especially after flowering in spring until the seeds mature in May to June, ventilation work must be done even better, with shading at noon, to help the seeds develop and mature.
Watering and fertilizing: Pocketbook flower prefers a warm, humid environment, but dislikes overly wet potting soil and excessive watering during flowering. Generally, water only when the potting soil is dry. If in a greenhouse, frequently spraying water to increase air humidity is even better. Do not pour water directly onto the plant; if water accumulates on the leaves and buds, it easily causes rot. During the pre-flowering growing season, apply rotted cake fertilizer water once every 10 days (diluted 10-fold). At the early flowering stage, increase the application of phosphorus-based fertilizer. When fertilizing, do not let the fertilizer water contaminate the leaves, to avoid rotting the heart and leaves.
Propagation techniques: Pocketbook flower is generally propagated by sowing; when seeds are lacking, division can also be used. Sowing should be done after the high temperatures have passed and the weather turns cool, that is, in August to September, because during the high-temperature period seedlings are prone to damping-off and rot. Use leaf mold or peat soil mixed with half sand, sift and disinfect it, then put it into a shallow pot, fill with water using the soaking method, and then sow. The seeds of pocketbook flower are very small, in the form of relatively coarse powder grains. When sowing, it is best to first fold a piece of thick paper into a small triangular funnel, place the seeds in it, then hold the lower part of the small funnel with your right hand so that the seeds fall evenly into the sowing pot. Do not sow too densely, otherwise the seedlings will grow thin and weak after emergence. For covering soil, simply use a fine sieve to cover with a thin layer of fine soil (it does not matter if you do not cover with soil). After sowing, cover the pot with glass to maintain humidity. Before emergence, place it in a cool place, keep the temperature at around 20°C, and emergence occurs in about 7 to 10 days. After emergence, remove the glass, thin the seedlings, and let them gradually receive sunlight, lowering the temperature to around 15°C.
When the seedlings have 2 true leaves, they can be transplanted; when they have grown 4 to 6 true leaves, they can be potted individually. For the growing medium, mix 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part barnyard manure, 1 part sand and 6 parts garden soil, with a pH of 6.5. In November to December they can be potted into large pots for final planting.
5. Cockscomb
Cockscomb, also known as red cockscomb and rooster amaranth, is named for its inflorescence, which is twisted and folded like a rooster's comb. It is an annual herbaceous plant with a plant height of 30-50 cm. The stem is upright, with the upper part of the stem flattened, green or red. The leaves are alternate, ovate, ovate-lanceolate or lanceolate, tapering at the tip, entire, and stalked. The spike inflorescence is terminal; the flower axis is flattened and fleshy, in the shape of a cockscomb, yellow, white or red-purple, with a velvety sheen. The flowering period is July-October. The utricle is ovate, circumscissile, containing 4 seeds. The seeds are black and glossy, with a thousand-grain weight of 0.85 grams. It is used for flower beds and flower borders, and can also be potted; it is also fairly good as a cut flower, with a vase life of more than 10 days.
There are four types of cockscomb, namely hen-and-chickens cockscomb, common cockscomb, garden velvety cockscomb and pheasant-tail cockscomb. In addition, there are many cultivars. Divided by plant height, there are dwarf types (20-30 cm), medium-stem types (40-60 cm) and tall-stem types (above 60 cm); divided by flowering period, there are early-flowering and late-flowering distinctions. The colors range from very pale yellow (nearly white) to golden yellow and brownish yellow, and from jade red, rose red, orange-red to purple-red, and there are also compound colors such as sprinkled gold and Er Qiao, which mix the yellow and red series.
Cockscomb is native to India. It likes a hot, dry climate and fears waterlogging. It grows well in sunny, fertile sandy soil and dislikes sticky soil; in poor, non-breathable soil it grows poorly and the inflorescence becomes smaller. It can self-sow and reproduce.
Propagation by sowing: Sow in spring, March to April, in an open-field seedbed. When sowing, do not cover with soil; after covering with straw, water to keep the soil moist. Remove the straw cover after germination. Transplant when 2 leaves have grown. When the seedlings reach 5-10 cm, plant them out or pot them. No fertilization is needed during the seedling stage, otherwise the side branches will grow vigorously and affect the development of the main stem. After the cockscomb forms, apply thin fertilizer to promote its growth. Seeds easily mutate, so selection must be carefully done every year when saving seed.
The flowering period of cockscomb can be adjusted by controlling the sowing time. Generally, sowing can be done from March to June, sowing according to the need for flowers, to meet the demand for holiday flowers.
Growth habits: It likes a warm, dry climate and fears drought; it likes sunlight and cannot tolerate waterlogging, but it is not demanding about soil. It can generally be grown in any courtyard soil. This is a new way to develop courtyard economies at present, and people of insight might as well give it a try.
Propagation and cultivation: Use the seed propagation method. Around Qingming (early April), select a good plot, apply sufficient base fertilizer, plow finely and harrow evenly, level and make beds, scatter the seeds evenly over the bed surface, cover the seeds only lightly, firm the soil and water thoroughly. Generally, at a temperature of 15-20°C, seedlings emerge in 10-15 days. For summer sowing, sow after Mangzhong (early June) with a row spacing of 30 cm. When the seedlings are 6 cm tall, thin them to a plant spacing of 20 cm; the thinned seedlings can be transplanted to other fields, and after transplanting they must be watered. During the seedling stage, be sure to weed and loosen the soil; when it is not too dry, water as little as possible. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, apply one topdressing. After the rows close, appropriately remove some old leaves. When flowering and heading, if the weather is dry, water appropriately; in the rainy season, strictly prevent water accumulation in low-lying areas. After heading, the flower buds in the leaf axils of the lower part can be removed to concentrate nutrients on the growth of the top main spike.
Pest and disease control: If root rot occurs during the seedling stage, quicklime can be broadcast in the field. During the growing period, the cotton semi-looper is prone to occur; spraying the leaves with dimethoate or pyrethroid pesticides can provide control.
Harvesting and processing: Generally around White Dew (early September), the seeds gradually turn black and mature. The flower stalks can be cut off promptly and placed in a ventilated place to dry. When drying, take them out early and bring them in before evening, and do not let them be exposed to night dew, so as to avoid deterioration and reduced medicinal efficacy. Store them in bags.
6. Garden balsam
Garden balsam is also called nail grass, bone-penetrating grass, golden phoenix flower and sprinkled gold flower. Its place of origin is China and India, and it can be planted in flower pots or flower beds. Garden balsam is an annual or biennial herbaceous plant, about 25-35 cm tall. The flowers are white, pink, orange-red, copper-red and so on, and the flower forms include single-petaled and double-petaled, making it a very beautiful plant.
The suitable temperature for garden balsam germination is 22°C-30°C. Sowing period: March-April or September-October
The suitable temperature for garden balsam growth is 15°C-32°C. Flowering period: May-July, December-February.
I. Before planting:
Flower growth is closely related to various factors in the natural environment, among which are temperature, light, water, growing medium and other factors. Temperature is the most important factor affecting flower growth. If air conditioning or heating is used indoors to regulate the temperature, planting will not be affected by the season, but after the seedlings emerge, the plants must be placed by a sunny window so they can receive as much ample sunlight as possible.
II. When planting:
Good, now get ready to start sowing. Please confirm once more before sowing: are the conditions required for seed germination and growth present now?
III. Planting:
1. When planting, pay special attention that at most only a thin layer of soil may cover the surface of the flower seeds, 1-3 times the diameter of the flower seeds (be as accurate as possible; feel is also important). If the seeds are buried too deep, it will make seed germination difficult.
2. Adjust the watering can to the mist spray setting and spray an appropriate amount of water on them;
3. Cover the mouth of the flower pot with glass or plastic film to reduce water evaporation;
4. Place the flower pot in a dark place away from light, and remember to open it for 15-20 minutes each day for ventilation;
5. Flower seeds generally germinate in about 10-15 days. Be patient while waiting for germination; sometimes factors such as temperature changes will affect the seed germination time, so please wait patiently.
IV. Emergence:
1. The seeds have germinated! At this time, please wait until the first pair of leaves on the sprout has unfolded symmetrically, then immediately remove the covering (glass plate, plastic film), and place it in a sunny spot, avoiding direct sunlight, pay attention to temperature changes, and do not water excessively.
2. When the first pair of cotyledons has fully unfolded and turned green, gradually increase the duration of light under direct sunlight.
3. When the first pair of true leaves grows, place it in all-day direct sunlight, pay attention to the dryness of the growing medium, and water appropriately; when the second pair of true leaves grows, it shows that the most difficult stage of growing has been passed. As long as you manage temperature and moisture well, garden balsam will grow vigorously.
V. Light:
1. If the plant lacks light, it often becomes leggy, making the plant slender, thin and weak and prone to lodging; the light duration should be increased.
2. Turn the flower pot frequently as often as possible, so that the branches and leaves receive sunlight from all angles and grow fully.
VI. Care:
1. When the seedlings have grown to nearly one inch, keep the robust plants and "move house" for the rest, that is, transplant them into pots.
2. When transplanting, be very careful not to damage the fine roots. When moving the seedling out, dig a pit of appropriate width and depth in the center of the flower pot, let its root system spread out fully, cover with growing medium, press lightly, and then water an appropriate amount.
VII. Watering:
1. During the emergence period, the soil needs to be kept moist. After emergence, keep it somewhat on the dry side, so that the surface soil is dry while the interior remains moist, which is better;
2. Water as much as possible in the morning, avoiding sunlight;
3. It is best to let the water sit for 4-6 minutes first, to dissipate the chlorine in the tap water;
4. When watering, it is best to use a fine-spouted pot, starting from a place far from the plant and gradually moving closer to the plant, watering more around the edges and less near the plant, and try not to splash it on the leaves and stems.
7. Lily
The lily is a perennial root-vegetable crop. Its main edible part is the bulb. Besides being used as a vegetable, its processed products are also widely used in medicine and health foods.
Ziyuan County has a long history of growing lilies, but due to long-term mixed varieties and extensive cultivation management, the unit yield is relatively low. To obtain better economic benefits from growing lilies, great effort must be put into cultivation.
1. Site selection: It is best to choose acidic sandy loam with ample sunlight, deep soil, convenient drainage and irrigation, and a pH of 5.7-6.3 for cultivation. The previous crop should preferably be a legume or grass plant, and crop rotation should be practiced; continuous cropping is not suitable.
2. Selection of good varieties: There are many lily varieties, mainly Longya lily, Yixing lily and Lanzhou lily. Ziyuan County mostly uses Longya lily, which has large bulbs, good quality, strong stress resistance, vigorous growth and high yield. It is generally propagated with small bulbs (single fruit weight 30-50 g). Lily bulbs easily carry disease, so healthy bulbs with no rotten base, no disease spots and no mechanical damage must be selected as seed bulbs to ensure neat emergence and less disease. Planted in the current year, they can be harvested the following year. If the seed source is insufficient, scale propagation can also be used, but it must be planted continuously for three years before harvest. Seeds are collected in July, stored in sand for after-ripening, and sown from late August to September.
3. Land preparation and sowing: Before planting, in August, broadcast about 100 kg of lime per mu, deep-plow the soil two to three times, then apply 30-40 kg per mu of potassium sulfate compound fertilizer, prepare the land and make beds. The bed surface width is about 1 m, and the bed height is 20-30 cm, ensuring no waterlogging. Then open furrows for planting, and apply rotted crushed cow shed manure, chicken manure, wood ash, tung oil cake and other organic fertilizers at the bottom of the furrow, 1200-1500 kg per mu, cover with a thin layer of soil, then plant the bulbs; the seed bulbs must not touch the organic fertilizer. If rapeseed cake is used, the lilies turn yellow and the export grade is low; if pig manure is applied, pests are easily produced. The planting density is 30×20 cm, the seed quantity per mu is 125-150 kg, and the harvest amount one year after planting is 4-6 times the seed quantity.
4. Pest and disease control:
Disease control: The main diseases of lily are damping-off and root rot. Before planting, first soak the seeds in 300-fold formalin for 5 minutes, then dry them and sow. After emergence, use 80% mancozeb 1000-fold, or 25% carbendazim 1000-fold, or 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder 600-800-fold, rotating them once every 7-10 days, and spray continuously 2-3 times.
Pest control: For underground pests, use 50% phoxim emulsion or 50% dexon mixed into poisoned soil and spread evenly into the planting furrows; for aphids, spray with 10% imidacloprid wettable powder 2000-fold, spraying once every 7-10 days.
5. Timely harvest: Harvesting can be done every year in July to August. Harvesting on a sunny day one week before the Start of Autumn gives the highest yield; harvesting after the stems and leaves wither in late autumn is also possible, but the dried-slice rate is low and the benefit is not as good as the former. At harvest, large bulbs can be sold fresh or processed into dried slices, and small bulbs below 50 g are kept whole as seed.
8. Bleeding heart
Bleeding heart is native to Hebei and the Northeast region of China. It prefers a semi-shady environment with ample scattered light and is relatively cold-tolerant, but it fears the severe heat of midsummer and strong direct sunlight. Therefore, it is best placed under a large tree in the courtyard, under a grape trellis, on the shady side of a tall building, or on an east- or north-facing balcony. During the summer dormant period, place it in a well-ventilated shady spot where it cannot receive direct light, and often sprinkle water on the nearby ground to raise air humidity and lower the temperature.
Ecological habits:
Cold-tolerant, dislikes high temperatures, prefers a shady, moist environment and loose, fertile neutral soil; it grows poorly in both sandy soil and clay soil. By midsummer the stems and leaves wither and yellow, and it enters dormancy. It goes dormant in hot summers. It cannot tolerate drought and prefers moist, well-drained fertile sandy loam. It grows poorly in both sandy soil and clay soil. It dislikes direct sunlight. The flowering period is April-June. It sprouts relatively early in spring, and after flowering until summer the stems and leaves gradually yellow and it goes dormant.
Bleeding heart propagation:
For propagation and cultivation, division, cuttings and sowing can all be used.
Bleeding heart division propagation method.
It is best done in early spring in February, after the buds begin to sprout and before the new leaves grow. When dividing, dig up the entire plant, shake off the soil from the roots, then use a knife to cut off the tender rhizomes around the main rhizome together with roots, divide into 2-3 plants, and plant them in a seedbed prepared in advance, covering with 2-3 cm of soil, watering thoroughly, and placing in a shady spot. Division can also be done after the plant enters dormancy in late autumn, in a method similar to early spring division. Timing must be right: if the old plant's new leaves have already unfolded before division, the root system is easily damaged and the survival rate is low. Division can also be done during the late autumn dormant period, but the survival rate is not high. Division can only be done once every 2 or 3 years, not every year.
The common method is division. Before sprouting in March, dig out the underground part, remove old roots and rotten roots, separate the rhizomes naturally along their segments, with each piece bearing 3-5 buds, and replant; they can bloom in May of the same year. In spring, break off basal shoots for cuttings, and roots will develop in about 1 month. For seed propagation, seedlings must be grown for 3 years before they can bloom.
Bleeding heart cutting propagation method
Cutting medium: Choose loose, well-drained sandy loam rich in humus as the medium, with a pH between 5 and 6. Before use, it is best to disinfect it with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution.
Cutting time: Carry out from June to July each year. At this time there is more rain, and the ground temperature and air temperature are also more suitable, so the cutting survival rate is high.
For softwood cuttings, in June and July, after all the flowers have faded, select branches that are plump and growing well with relatively full axillary buds, cut off the inflorescence, and after 7-10 days cut the robust lower branches with axillary buds into sections of 2 to 3 nodes each, with each section about 10-15 cm long, keeping one leaf at the upper end, and thinning out some of the small leaves. Insert 2 nodes into the soil, with the upper node and its small leaves exposed above the soil surface, at a plant and row spacing of 10 cm × 10 cm.
Dip the cut end in sulfur powder or plant ash, insert into plain soil, water and place in a shady spot, frequently spray water on the cuttings, but restrict watering of the potting soil; it is enough to keep it slightly moist but not dry. Roots can form in just over a month, and the following spring they can be potted with soil for final planting; with good management, they can bloom in the same year. The insertion depth is 1/3 of the branch length. The cutting bed can use sandy loam or sandy soil, but fertilizer must absolutely not be applied. After cutting, water thoroughly and shade; generally roots can form in 30-40 days.
Management after cutting:
After cutting, water thoroughly once with a fine-spouted watering can so that the cuttings are in close contact with the medium. Set up a low arch shed over the bed, cover with plastic film, and cover with straw curtains to create a semi-shady environment. Keep the temperature at around 25°C; when it is too high, ventilate appropriately to lower the temperature, and always keep the bed soil moist. Roots can form in about 40 days; gradually remove the shed film and straw curtains, and the following spring they can be transplanted and planted out, blooming in the same year.
Plants are divided in March-April; cuttings are mostly taken in late March, and sowing is mostly done in autumn. Field-grown bleeding heart needs to be covered for insulation in winter. Potted plants are mostly divided or repotted around late March. In hot summers, place them in a semi-shady spot, and in the rainy season be careful to prevent water accumulation in the pots.
Or the rhizome can be cut into sections for propagation. In autumn, dig out the underground part, separate the rhizomes naturally along their segments, and plant them separately. Alternatively, the rhizome can be cut into sections, each with a bud eye, inserted into sand, and after rooting, planted in pots. For seed propagation, seedlings must be grown for 3 years before they can bloom.
Bleeding heart seed propagation method.
Harvest the seeds promptly when they mature in late June. Cut off the inflorescences and dry them in the sun, winnow the seeds clean, then scatter-sow them in the seedbed at once and water thoroughly; seedlings will emerge in about 15 days. Cover them in winter to keep the seedlings alive through the cold. In the following spring, transplant the sturdy young seedlings, with a plant-to-row spacing of 30-50 cm being suitable. Seedlings grown from seed take 3 years to flower.
Home growers generally do not use this method; parks departments use it only for mass propagation or for breeding new hybrid varieties.
Cultivation of Bleeding Heart
For ground planting, choose a spot with higher terrain. Before planting, dig the bed soil deeply and work in well-rotted organic fertilizer; during the growing season, topdress in combination with irrigation; in summer, when temperatures are high and the stems and leaves turn yellow as the plant enters dormancy, the withered branches can be cut away, and watering thoroughly once before Frost's Descent helps protect against the cold. For container growing, use a light potting mix enriched with fertilizer, water thoroughly after planting, and keep it in a sunny spot; during the growing season provide ample fertilizer and water. Move it as little as possible during the flowering period so that fallen flowers do not spoil its ornamental value; after flowering, if seeds are not needed, promptly cut off the spent flowers.
Care of Bleeding Heart
Bleeding heart is cold-hardy and shade-loving, intolerant of high temperatures, and grows well planted in loam rich in humus; generally it should be watered once a week. During bud formation, apply decomposed fertilizer solution 1-2 times; do not water excessively, keeping the soil moist is sufficient. During the growing season, apply once every 2-3 weeks with decomposed urine diluted 5 times with water. If sown directly in a flower bed, thin the seedlings when they have 5 leaves, to a spacing of 30 cm. In March of the following year, apply once more with decomposed urine diluted 3 times with water, and wait for it to bloom. In July, cut off the black fruit, dry it in the sun, thresh it and collect the seeds.
Pests and Diseases of Bleeding Heart
For scale insects, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution; leaf spot sometimes occurs, and can be prevented and controlled by spraying with 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution.
For leaf spot, spray with 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution. Among insect pests, scale insects cause damage; spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution.
9. Daylily
Hemerocallis hybrida, a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Hemerocallis in the Liliaceae family, is native to China, Japan and Eurasia, and is now widely cultivated around the world; it is an excellent perennial garden flower.
Hemerocallis hybrida has strong drought resistance, tolerates high temperatures, withstands low temperatures, and adapts to a wide temperature range; it can be grown from south to north in our country. It has strong disease resistance and wide adaptability to soil; it can generally be cultivated in all soils except those that are overly acidic, overly alkaline, overly sandy or overly clayey, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 being best.
Propagation Methods
Dividing the daylily clumps is the most commonly used propagation method. This method is simple to carry out, the plants survive easily, and growth is relatively uniform. For division, the entire mother clump can be dug up and replanted in divisions; or part of the plants can be dug out from one side of the mother clump as planting stock, leaving the rest to continue growing.
Division is mostly carried out in spring before sprouting or in autumn after leaf fall. If divided and transplanted in spring, the plants can bolt and flower the same year; if divided and transplanted in autumn, they can only bolt and flower the following year. When transplanting, choose plants that are vigorous, have many flower buds, good quality and no pests or diseases.
When dividing, dig out part of the clump's tillers as planting stock; the part dug out must have roots. Cut them apart at the shortened stem, trim off old roots, decayed roots and diseased roots, retaining as much of the fleshy roots as possible, and after cutting them appropriately shorter (leaving about 10 cm), they can be planted. Planting should be done on a sunny day, digging, dividing and planting the seedlings as you go, injuring the roots as little as possible, so that the plants recover quickly. Generally divide once every 2 to 3 years to ensure vigorous growth of the plants.
Sowing is a method for rapidly producing seedlings in large quantities, but because the seed germination rate is low, the seeds must first be soaked to germinate, and the seedlings can only be planted out one year after sowing. The seed collection period begins around September each year, and requires plants that are robust, with plump fruit and no pests or diseases. Sow in the following spring.
The seedbed should first be given plenty of base fertilizer; the bed should be 1.3 to 1.7 m wide and about 30 m long, with drainage ditches dug on both sides. When sowing, open shallow furrows about 3 cm deep every 20 cm, sow the seeds evenly into the furrows, cover with a layer of fine soil, then spread a thin layer of fine sand. Before emergence, water and weed, and maintain good soil moisture; the seedlings can be lifted and planted out in autumn. Each mu of seedbed uses 2.5 kg of seed and can raise 50,000 to 60,000 seedlings.
The seeds can also be soaked to promote germination and then sown in the open field to raise seedlings, with a sowing rate of 5 to 7 kg per mu, using flat-ground drilling. Open furrows at a row spacing of 30 cm, about 3 cm deep, and sow one seed every 3 to 5 cm; after the plants grow 2 to 3 leaves, apply once with dilute human waste. For overwintering, use a small arched shed to protect against the cold; after spring begins, strengthen field management, and they can be transplanted in August. Seeds collected from evergreen daylily can be sown directly, or stored at room temperature and then sown.
Division by buds and flower buds refers to the small plants on the flower stems of Hemerocallis hybrida. The flower buds can be cut from the flower stems; if they are relatively large, they can be further divided before planting. The transplanted flower buds can take root after one week. Rooted flower buds can be used to propagate plants, increasing the number planted and ultimately improving economic returns.
Tissue culture uses young leaves, filaments, flower scapes and other organs to culture into plants. The method is to first induce the young organs to produce callus, then culture them into young plantlets using an appropriate medium under suitable conditions of temperature, humidity, light and air. The plantlets are then temporarily planted in nutrient pots, and after a period of culture become young plants, after which they are planted out. However, this method has not yet been widely accepted.
In addition to the four methods described above, other methods can also be used to propagate Hemerocallis hybrida. Individual clonal plants can be divided into thin slices with growing points and root systems, and can be divided again after about 6 months of planting. When dividing, these plants must not be smaller than 1/4 of the original plant. Another method is to cut the top of the corona, use plant growth regulators to strengthen the vitality of the cut plants, carry out in vitro culture to promote rooting, and then plant them.
Planting
Hemerocallis hybrida is mostly planted in early spring in early March before sprouting. Although Hemerocallis hybrida is not demanding about soil, because it can grow for many years after planting, attention should be paid to the choice of planting site. It is best to choose flat land with a low groundwater table or sloping land with good water sources and irrigation conditions, with good drainage, loose soil and deep soil layers. Newly opened wasteland must have the soil fully weathered, or organic fertilizer applied to raise its organic matter content. The land must be leveled; because Hemerocallis hybrida has strong tillering ability, the plant-to-row spacing must be kept at 40 to 50 cm when planting. Dig holes for planting, with the holes arranged in a triangle, planting 3 to 5 plants. Planting should not be too deep or too shallow: too deep and tillering is slow; too shallow and tillering, though fast, mostly produces weak and spindly growth. Generally the planting holes are more than 30 cm deep, with base fertilizer applied down to 15 to 20 cm from the ground surface, and after planting the soil is covered and firmed. Apply 500 to 600 kg per mu of human waste mixed with water as a spot application to settle the seedlings in, ensuring the survival rate.
Management
Fertilization: Hemerocallis hybrida has a long flowering period and a relatively large demand for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. In addition to applying plenty of base fertilizer at planting (rotted cow dung or pig dung is preferable), fertilizer should also be applied according to the needs of different developmental stages. When nitrogen is sufficient, it can promote robust plant growth and enlarge the leaves. Phosphorus can promote root growth, strengthen tillering ability, help the transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth, enhance bud-forming ability, and promote drought resistance, cold resistance and disease resistance, improving quality. When potassium is supplied adequately, the plant tissues are tough, growth is robust, disease resistance is strong, and in the middle and late stages the flower scapes can emerge neatly and thickly, the flower buds develop large, and bud-forming ability is enhanced. Therefore, topdressing is needed twice before and during the flowering period, each time mainly with quick-acting fertilizer, combined with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and nitrogen fertilizer must not be applied one-sidedly. You can also spray 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate to promote larger flowers? and it can also achieve the effect of extending the flowering period.
Irrigation: Hemerocallis hybrida has relatively strong drought resistance, and its water requirement during the vegetative growth period is not great; therefore irrigation should be based on the water needs of daylily at each growth and development stage, combined with local climate, soil and water source conditions. After new seedlings are transplanted, the soil water-holding capacity should be maintained at 70% to 80%, and they should be watered promptly in drought. During the seedling stage the plants are small and their water requirement is also small. From the beginning of reproductive growth, the water requirement gradually increases; if there is a water shortage at this time, growth will be affected. During the flower bud stage the soil must be kept moist at all times to prevent the buds from dropping due to drought, generally watering once every week. Water thoroughly and evenly, preferably in the morning and evening. In July and August there is a lot of rain, so drainage and waterlogging prevention are needed. Before winter begins, winter irrigation should be applied to ensure early sprouting the following year.
Weeding: After planting, during the seedling stage, timely intertillage and weeding should be carried out. During the seedling stage, intertillage should be shallow rather than deep, and as the seedlings age, intertillage should be deepened. Before the spring shoots emerge, carry out one shallow loosening of the soil, and after emergence carry out 3 to 4 timely shallow hoeings, which can achieve the dual purpose of weeding and drought prevention. Intertillage and weeding should be carried out when soil moisture is moderate, and can be stopped once the leaf clumps cover the ground. Promptly remove weeds in the daylily field; if weeds run rampant, they very easily trigger pests and diseases, affecting the growth and appearance of the daylily.
Weeding can be done either by traditional manual weeding or by using herbicides suitable for Hemerocallis hybrida. Sethoxydim, also known as Poast, is a selective pre-emergence and post-emergence foliage treatment agent that can control grass weeds such as barnyardgrass, wild oat, foxtail, goosegrass and bermudagrass; penoxalin, also known as pendimethalin, is a selective pre-emergence soil treatment agent, highly effective in pre-emergence control of annual narrow-leaved weeds and certain broad-leaved weeds, such as annual grass weeds like crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, shortawn foxtail and bluegrass, and broad-leaved weeds like lambsquarters, amaranth, chickweed, Galinsoga parviflora and shepherd's purse; metolachlor, also known as metolachlor, is a selective pre-emergence dryland soil treatment agent, used to control annual grass weeds such as barnyardgrass, crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail and lovegrass, and also controls some small-seeded broad-leaved weeds such as amaranth, purslane, shepherd's purse, Galinsoga parviflora and chickweed, as well as rice flatsedge; it has poor efficacy against perennial weeds and most broad-leaved weeds; fluazifop-butyl, a post-emergence foliage treatment herbicide, is highly effective against annual and perennial grass weeds, but ineffective against broad-leaved weeds and sedges. In addition there are oryzalin (Surflan), the mixed agent Snapshot, etc., all of which can be used to control weeds in Hemerocallis hybrida fields.
Pest and disease control: Rust, leaf spot and leaf blight are diseases to which daylily is extremely prone. Rust is a fungal disease and is the main disease of daylily in the middle and late stages; it begins to occur in early May, is most severe from June to July, and only gradually stops after October, damaging leaves and flower scapes. At first a small number of yellow powdery spots appear on the leaves, then gradually spread to the whole leaf, until the whole plant dies; when the disease occurs, fungicides such as triadimefon and sodium dimethyldithiocarbamate can be sprayed for control. Leaf spot is caused by fungi of the genus Fusarium and is the main disease of daylily during the seedling stage; it begins to occur from the end of March to early April, with peaks from mid-to-late April to mid-to-late May. It often occurs in the middle part on both sides of the leaf midrib; after perforation it interrupts the transport of water and nutrients, the leaf tips turn yellow and wither first, and finally the whole leaf yellows and dies. It can be prevented and controlled by spraying Bordeaux mixture or lime sulfur mixture.
Leaf blight is caused by pathogenic fungi of the genus Colletotrichum and is a seedling-stage disease that occurs after leaf spot. It generally begins to occur in early May, is most severe in early to mid-June, and mainly damages leaves, and also damages flower scapes. It occurs from the seedling stage onward; water-soaked small spots first appear at the middle edge of the leaf, then gradually spread upward and downward, forming brown streaks, finally turning grayish white, and in severe cases the whole leaf dies. It can be controlled by spraying 50% carbendazim at 600 to 800 times dilution, or by spraying Bordeaux mixture around Qingming.
The main insect pests of daylily are red spider mites and aphids. Red spider mites are small, spider-like red mites that mainly pierce and suck sap on the undersides of leaves, causing grayish-white small spots at the damaged sites. They can be controlled with 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate, 20% clofentezine wettable powder, etc. Aphids mainly occur in May, first damaging the leaves, then piercing and sucking sap on the flower buds; the damaged buds are thin and small and easily drop off. They can be controlled with lime sulfur mixture, 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate, 25% malathion emulsifiable concentrate, tobacco-lime water, etc. In addition, in trials on the breeding of Hemerocallis hybrida it was found that from May to August snails cause relatively serious damage to Hemerocallis hybrida, and control measures should be taken promptly.
10. Amaryllis
Amaryllis, also known as belladonna lily, hundred-branch lotus and trumpet flower, is a plant of the genus Hippeastrum in the Amaryllidaceae family. The amaryllis flower stalk stands gracefully erect, with 4-6 vermilion trumpet-shaped flowers borne at the top, opening toward the sun, appearing especially gorgeous and pleasing to the eye. Because the amaryllis resembles clivia in appearance, it also has the elegant name "gentleman red". In Tianjin it is called "rouge cave", which captures the idea quite cleverly. It is now widely cultivated around the world; besides potted ornamental use, it is planted in open ground gardens to form community landscapes, adding to the garden scenery. In recent years, European and American horticulturists, to make it convenient for flower growers, have specially produced amaryllis as canned flowers. To date, production in Europe is relatively large; the main producing country, the Netherlands, reached 19.1 million US dollars in amaryllis sales value in 1995, and Belgium, Germany, France and Spain all have a certain output. In Asia, eastern India produces amaryllis bulbs, but the production facilities are backward and the quality is poor. In our country, during the period from 1912 to 1949, Nanjing, Shanghai and other places already had potted amaryllis for ornamental viewing, and in the 1970s planting began around open-ground gardens in southern China as a landscape attraction. In recent years, many excellent varieties have been introduced from abroad throughout the country, many of them dwarf varieties suitable for potted ornamental use, creating conditions for the development and utilization of amaryllis.
Seeding and division are commonly used for propagation.
Seed propagation: Sow indoors in pots in May-June; the suitable germination temperature is 18-22°C, and germination occurs about 20 days after sowing. Pay attention to fertilizer and water management during the seedling stage; when the true leaves reach 3-4, carry out the first transplanting, maintaining a certain plant spacing. From sowing to flowering takes 3-4 years.
Division propagation: Potted amaryllis is divided when repotting in February-March; before dividing and planting, first remove the old roots and old soil, separate the small bulbs growing beside the mother bulb, and pot them according to bulb size; generally flowering bulbs have a circumference of 24-26 cm. When planting, 1/3 of the bulb is exposed above the soil surface. Plant in March and they flower in April-May.
In recent years, scale cutting, scoring and tissue culture methods have been widely used abroad to propagate amaryllis.
Scale cutting propagation: Select well-developed, disease-free bulbs, peel off the overly mature outer scales, and keep the plump middle scales for propagation, but each scale must carry a stem disc. In September insert the scales into a sand bed at 18-20°C, keeping them moist; small bulbs form and roots grow at the base that same year. In the following spring new shoots grow from the small bulbs, and they need to be cultivated for another 3 years to become flowering bulbs.
Scoring propagation: Select bulbs with a circumference of 24-26 cm, soak the bulbs in 1% copper sulfate solution for 5 minutes, wash them clean with water, then cut off 1/3 of the bulb, gently score the main bud at the center of the bulb with a knife, place them flat on a sand bed, keep the room temperature at 18-22°C, and maintain relatively high air humidity; after 2 months several small bulbs form between the scales.
For potted amaryllis, use loose, fertile, slightly acidic leaf mold or peat soil. Flowering bulbs with a circumference of 24-26 cm need a 12 cm pot; commercial cultivation also uses 18-20 cm pots, planting 3 bulbs. The planting depth is such that 1/3 of the bulb is exposed above the potting soil. Water sparingly at first planting; when flower stems or leaves appear, keep the potting soil moist. During the growing season, fertilize once every half month, and after the flower stem emerges apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer once. After flowering, continue to supply water and fertilizer to promote plump, well-filled bulbs. In commercial production, forcing culture is often used for amaryllis: flowering bulbs pretreated at a low temperature of 5°C for 50 days, under conditions of a soil temperature of 21°C and a room temperature of 17-19°C, flower 6 weeks after planting. According to trial reports, soaking and treating bulbs with indoleacetic acid can increase the weight and number of small bulbs. Soaking and treating bulbs with gibberellin (GA3) can increase bulb weight and enlarge the flower diameter. Soaking and treating with chlormequat (CCC) can increase the number of flowers. Spraying the leaves of amaryllis with indoleacetic acid, gibberellin and chlormequat can likewise increase the number of small bulbs and flowers.
If seed is to be collected from amaryllis, artificial pollination should be carried out, which can increase the seed-setting rate. Because amaryllis seeds are flat and extremely thin and easily lose water and lose germination capacity, they should be sown immediately after collection. If bulbs are being produced, promptly cut off the flower stems after flowering so as not to consume the bulb's nutrients. After leaves grow, strengthen fertilization to promote bulb enlargement and the production of new bulbs. Bulbs can be stored for 8-10 weeks at 13°C, and can be stored long-term at 5°C.
The main diseases include viral disease, spot disease and nematode disease. Spot disease damages leaves and flowers.
11. Peony
Peony is one of our country's traditional famous flowers, with a cultivation history of more than 3000 years. Peony flower forms are varied, the flower colors are gorgeous, the green leaves are elegant, and the plant clumps are full, used for greening and ornament, they can lead people into a fantastically beautiful realm.
Peony is a perennial herbaceous flower of the Ranunculaceae family, with a plant height of about 1 m; the flowers are borne singly at the top of the current year's branches, and some are borne in the leaf axils at the top; the flower stalk is relatively long, the flowers are divided into single and double forms, and the flower colors include white, yellow, pink, purple, rose and many other colors.
Peony flowers have strong cold resistance and can overwinter naturally in the open ground in most areas of northern China. However, their heat tolerance is relatively poor, and growth stops in hot summers. They like sunlight, but can also grow and flower under light shade. They like moisture, but fear waterlogging, and are suitable for growing in deep, fertile and well-drained sandy loam; low-lying saline-alkaline land is not suitable for cultivation.
Peony is commonly propagated by division, and the division time is best from late August to mid-September. The division method is to dig up clumps that are more than 3 years old, shake off the soil, and after drying in the shade until slightly wilted, take three or four buds as one plant, find the smallest natural connection point and cut it apart with a sharp knife, and coat the cut with charcoal powder for antisepsis. To promote the sprouting of new roots, the fleshy roots can be retained at 15 cm in length and shortened. After division, plant as soon as possible.
The growth characteristics of peony are that after sprouting in spring it grows rapidly and flowers, and after flowering it stops growing upward, and the number of leaves no longer increases. At the end of autumn all the aboveground stems and leaves die, and underground the long spindle-shaped fleshy roots, accumulating ample nutrients, lie deep in the soil, with young buds waiting to sprout at the root crown, which break through the soil when spring returns to the earth the following year.
1. Land requirements:
Choose sandy soil with high terrain, dryness, good drainage, deep soil layers and loose fertility. Before planting, apply plenty of base fertilizer, preferably rotted cake fertilizer (200 kg/mu) or dried manure (1500 kg/mu); deep plowing and leveling should be done first.
2. Planting time and specifications:
The suitable planting time is generally from late August (End of Heat) to late September (Autumn Equinox); for planting density, generally for ornamental use 80 cm x 70 cm can be used, planting about 1200 plants per mu, and for production use 60 cm x 50 cm can be used, planting about 2200 plants per mu. When planting, the holes are generally about 35 cm deep and about 20 cm in diameter, and the depth of the seedling is best when the buds are 3 cm below the ground surface; finally fill the holes with soil, firm it, and pile up a 10 cm mound of soil to protect against cold, preserve soil moisture and serve as a marker. After planting, depending on soil moisture, water appropriately for overwintering.
3. Field management:
(1) Intertillage and weeding: In the following spring, before peony sprouts, level the soil mounds from the previous autumn; during the growing season, keep the soil loose and free of weeds, hoeing after rain and hoeing during long drought.
(2) Removing side buds: Besides the bud borne at the top of the stem, peony also bears 3-6 side buds in the leaf axils of the upper stem. If the side buds are removed early, nutrients can be concentrated, making the main bud's flower large and full; if the side buds are kept, the flowers bloom abundantly and the ornamental period is long. This can be controlled as needed.
(3) Watering and topdressing: Peony has fleshy roots and a developed root system with strong drought resistance, so it generally does not need watering; if there is a spring drought or a long period of summer drought, it can be watered once or twice, preferably with unpolluted river water; in winter, depending on whether the soil is dry or wet, it can also be watered once for overwintering. Peony grows vigorously and has a large fertilizer requirement, so it can be fertilized twice a year. Before winter begins, apply some slow-release fertilizer, such as rotted cake fertilizer (150 kg/mu) or dried night soil (1500 kg/mu); before or after flowering, apply some quick-acting fertilizer, such as compound fertilizer or diammonium phosphate (10-15 kg/mu); foliar topdressing can also be combined with this, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate or trace-element fertilizer, sprayed once every 15-20 days.
4. Pest and disease control:
(1) Diseases: Mainly leaf spot, including red spot and brown spot; the peak incidence is generally in the summer and autumn seasons with high temperatures and high humidity. In the early stage of the disease, 40% carbendazim at 800 times dilution can be sprayed on the leaf surface for control; in severe cases, use 40% carbendazim at 500 times dilution and spray once every 15 days, and 2-3 times can control it.
(2) Insect pests: Mainly white grubs and nematodes. For white grubs, during the peak occurrence period in July-August, use 30% carbofuran (5 kg/mu) or 50% phoxim granules (3 kg/mu) or isofenphos-methyl liquid, mix with organic fertilizer or sandy soil to form poisoned bait, spread it evenly, and then deep hoe. Nematodes are root-knot nematodes, highly transmissible and relatively serious in damage to peony; the symptoms are nodules of varying sizes on the fibrous roots, weak plant growth, yellowing, scorching and early dropping of leaf margins, and in severe cases the plant becomes short until it dies. For control, use 30% carbofuran granules at 25 g/sq m, evenly applied to the affected plot during the rainy summer period, then deep hoe 5-10 cm. Because root-knot nematodes are aerobic lower animals and mainly live within the 5-20 cm soil layer, when applying the pesticide, it must absolutely not be too deep.
12. Chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant; in the long-day seasons of spring and summer, it can only carry out vegetative growth. After the Beginning of Autumn, as the weather turns cooler and the day length shortens, it can begin flower bud differentiation, breed flower buds, and bloom with gorgeous flowers in the frost.
Chrysanthemum has strong adaptability and is not strict about climate and soil conditions; it is cultivated everywhere in our country, and can grow in slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils. Small chrysanthemums have stronger cold resistance than large chrysanthemums, and the flowers do not wither after several severe frosts. At temperatures above 10°C the dormant buds can sprout, and a temperature of 20 to 25°C is most suitable for growth. Chrysanthemum is drought-tolerant, fears waterlogging, and likes loose, fertile sandy soil rich in humus, a cool climate and ample sunlight.
Chrysanthemum can be propagated by division, cutting, grafting, sowing and many other methods. Grafting and sowing have high technical requirements and relatively cumbersome propagation processes; without superb cutting and grafting skills and techniques such as the selection of good varieties and artificial pollination, it is very difficult to propagate successfully. These two propagation methods are also only used in nurseries when large numbers of seedlings are needed; for home chrysanthemum growing, division and cutting are generally used for propagation.
1. Seed propagation: Before sowing, apply plenty of rotted organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, and deep plow and harrow finely, making flat beds. Mix the seeds evenly with fine sand and broadcast them, cover with fine soil about 0.5 cm thick, and after sowing cover with a shade net and water thoroughly. In early spring when it is cold, cloudy and rainy, cover with plastic film to maintain soil moisture and temperature. Watering should be done with a fine spray to prevent the soil surface from crusting. After about 10 days the seedlings emerge; remove the shade net or plastic film, and when the seedlings have 2-3 leaves they can be transplanted to the field. Chrysanthemum greens can be sown directly; in southern China they can be sown in February, and in cold northern regions they can only be sown in early April, with about 0.2 kg of seed used per mu.
2. Division propagation: In mid-to-late March, the old stubble of chrysanthemum greens can be dug out, exposing the root crown, and the lateral buds that already have roots can be cut off together with the old roots and transplanted into the field. Division propagation is more suitable when new shoots are sprouting.
3. Cutting propagation: Cutting propagation can be carried out throughout the growing season, with the highest survival rate for cuttings taken from April to June. The seedbed is best made with new soil mixed with composted, rotted organic fertilizer. Cut shoots with 3-5 nodes and a length of 8-10 cm, remove the basal leaves, and insert to a depth of 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length. After cutting, keep the bed moist, avoid waterlogging; in the hot season shade is needed, while at lower temperatures a plastic film arched shed can be built to keep warm and moist. Generally they can be transplanted to the field after 15 days.
Some people may like vase-arranged chrysanthemums, so here are a few tips for everyone:
1. Before putting chrysanthemums in a vase, first cut off the flower leaves on the lower part of the stem that may be submerged in water. Because chrysanthemums have a relatively long flowering period, up to 2-3 weeks, while the flower leaves quickly turn yellow; the flower leaves submerged in water will compete with the flowers for nutrients and may also breed bacteria.
2. To make chrysanthemums last longer, not only should the water be changed every day, but each time the water is changed, cut off 1 inch of the stem base submerged in water, so that the water-absorbing channels are always kept open.
3. Chrysanthemums in a vase likewise need a certain amount of nutrients. The simplest method is to put a vitamin tablet in the water, or add 1 teaspoon of white sugar. However, organic nutrients (such as white sugar) will provide a great possibility for bacterial reproduction, so at the same time 1-2 drops of bleach or a little bleach powder can be put into the water to effectively control bacterial reproduction (the dose of bleach should be increased or decreased as appropriate according to the amount of water, the number of flowers and the purity of the bleach).
13. Wax Begonia
Wax begonia, also known as glass emerald and glass begonia, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Begonia in the Begoniaceae family. It likes well-drained sandy loam rich in humus, is not cold-tolerant, and fears blazing sun and rain. The simple leaves are alternate, ovate to long-ovate, and the leaf colors include green, dark red, etc. The flower colors include bright red, pink, white, etc., and it flowers in all four seasons.
Sowing propagation can be done in all four seasons. First press the potting soil firm and soak it through. Because the seeds are tiny, mix them with fine sand, scatter them evenly, and cover lightly with fine sand or not at all. Cover with a glass plate or film to retain moisture, and they will soon germinate. When the seedlings grow to 2 to 3 leaves, transplant them into pots, and at this time a dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied. When they grow to 4 to 6 cm tall, plant them out for normal management.
Cutting propagation: Cut 7 to 10 cm cuttings, dry them in the shade for 1 to 2 hours, keep half a leaf, and insert them into sandy soil. Keep the potting soil moist and they will soon root; this can be done in all four seasons.
Cultivation management: The potting soil should be well-drained sandy loam rich in humus. During the growing season, moderate moisture is required, and a diluted liquid fertilizer that has been composted should be applied once every 1 to 2 weeks. Wax begonia likes light, but fears blazing sunlight; too strong light easily makes the leaves curl and develop scorched spots, while insufficient light makes the plants grow thin and weak, affecting flowering. The optimum growth temperature is 20°C, and the minimum temperature is 10°C; any lower and it is prone to cold damage. In the high-temperature summer season it is in a semi-dormant state, and should be placed in a well-ventilated, shaded spot, and fertilization should be stopped at this time. To make the plant shape full, pinch the growing tips several times during the growing season, and at the same time apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. After wax begonia has been grown for 1 to 2 years, it shows signs of aging; it can be heavily pruned from the base to promote new shoots, and after pinching treatment it can recover its former luxuriant appearance. Repot once a year, removing old roots and necrotic roots.
14. Fuchsia
Fuchsia, also known as hanging-bell begonia and lantern begonia, is in the genus Fuchsia of the Onagraceae family, an evergreen subshrub. The flowers are borne singly in the leaf axils at the ends of the branches, with a long stalk; the calyx tube is bell-shaped or tubular and often hangs downward. The flower colors include pink, purple-red, apricot yellow, white, etc.; it flowers in all four seasons, most abundantly in spring and autumn. There are many fuchsia varieties, with plant forms and flower forms varying.
Fuchsia is native to South America and likes a mild, cool and humid environment; its optimum growth temperature is 10°C-15°C. In summer it fears strong direct sunlight and high temperatures; in winter it fears cold below 5°C. No wonder it is called the "delicate lady among flowers". Its requirements for fertilizer and water differ by season; in spring and autumn the requirement is relatively large. In the hot summer season, fuchsia is in a semi-dormant state, and watering must be controlled to avoid root rot and death. Measures such as ventilation and cooling should be taken, water should often be sprayed on the leaves, and the plants should be placed under a shade shed to ensure safe passage through the summer. After the weather cools in autumn it revives; strengthen fertilizer and water management, pinch and shape it in good time, and promote lateral branches. Generally it can flower two to three weeks after pinching, so pinching is also often used to control the flowering period. The potting soil should preferably be fertile, loose, well-drained sandy loam; it can tolerate weak alkalinity.
Fuchsia sets fruit with difficulty after flowering, so cutting propagation is usually used; it can be done throughout the year, but spring is preferable. One-year-old young shoots root most easily; choose robust, plump top shoots 5 cm-10 cm long with three or four nodes, keep the upper 3 small leaves, and insert them into sandy soil to a depth of one node; keep the temperature at 15°C-20°C; spray water once a day to maintain air humidity, and they will root after two weeks. Pot the seedlings promptly in potting mix, and pinch promptly to promote lateral branches. Old plants should be repotted every spring, combined with heavy pruning for propagation, and the old roots around the sides cut off to rejuvenate the plants. Spring cuttings have an advantage, namely that the seedlings have relatively strong heat resistance and mostly do not drop their leaves during the dog days. Cuttings taken before the dog days flower after autumn, hence the saying "raise young ones, not old ones". If the plants drop their leaves in summer, they should generally be cut back promptly after the Beginning of Autumn to promote new branches, and liquid fertilizer should be topdressed, so that they can flower in autumn.
15. Clivia
Clivia has strong vitality and is easy to cultivate, but to grow it well, the correct cultivation method is indispensable. For a good clivia, cultivation skill and the plant itself can be split 70-30, which shows the importance of cultivation techniques. Only by understanding the growth habits of clivia can one explore and summarize the correct cultivation techniques, and only then can one grow clivia with ease and get twice the result with half the effort; the clivia one grows will then be pleasing to the eye. The growth of clivia is greatly affected by the factors of water, soil, fertilizer, light, temperature and humidity. Let me discuss views on these six aspects:
1. Water: As everyone knows, plant growth cannot be separated from water; the absorption of nutrients and all physiological activities must depend on water, but different plants have different requirements for water, and the water quality in different places is also different. Clivia's requirements for water are as follows:
pH of water: Clivia likes neutral or slightly acidic water, with a pH of about 6.5. The pH of water varies from place to place; if the water is not neutral or slightly acidic, consideration should be given to improving it. For example, alkaline water can be neutralized with rice-washing water.
Water quality: tap water, river water, lake water and so on differ in water quality from one another; clean water rich in minerals is the best. Tap water has been treated by the artificial addition of chemicals, and should generally be stored for a few days before being used to water flowers.
Water content in the soil: the suitable water content should be 20%-40%, ideally neither dry nor wet. If the water content in the soil is too high for a long time, the air permeability in the soil will become poor, easily causing root rot; conversely, if the water content is too low, it will dehydrate the plant, causing the roots to shrivel and wither.
Watering method: the principle of watering is not to water if not dry, and to water thoroughly when watering. The practice of giving just a little water at a time, like a dragonfly skimming the water, is extremely harmful. The "dry" mentioned here does not mean dry to the point of no water, but rather that the water content in the soil is relatively low, which is the time to water. People who grow clivia regularly usually tap the flowerpot with a finger and judge the water content in the soil by the sound made by the tap. A dull sound from the tap indicates that the water content in the soil is relatively high, and there is no need to water; conversely, a crisp sound indicates that the water content in the soil is relatively low, and water should be given at once. The reason the practice of giving just a little water at a time is extremely harmful is that most of the small amount of water is absorbed by the soil or flows away directly along channels formed in the soil, and very little is absorbed by the root system, almost equivalent to not watering at all.
In addition, when watering, note that the water temperature and soil temperature should be close, and the temperature difference between the two should not be too large; the watering time is best in the morning and evening; at noon in summer, when the temperature is very high, it is not suitable to water; watering should avoid the flower heart, especially during the period when the arrow is up and flowering, to prevent unclean water from causing heart rot.
2. Soil: Clivia's roots are fleshy roots, suitable for growing in soil that is loose, fertile, water-permeable and well-aerated, so the choice of cultivation soil should strictly take these four factors into consideration.
Soil quality: humus soil meets the above four requirements and is the first choice for growing clivia. The humus soil is best made from oak leaves (oak leaves); leaves of other trees such as larch, hazel, pear and apple can also be used, but attention should be paid to pesticide factors. Walnut tree leaves are toxic and cannot be used. High-quality humus soil should be moderately rotted tree leaves, with a degree of rotting of about 50%; too high a degree of rotting is not good, as water permeability and air permeability are poor.
To further improve the structure of the humus soil and increase water permeability and air permeability, some larch pine needles, carbon made from burned rice husks (not ash), washed river sand and furnace cinder can also be added, accounting for 10%-20%. Compacted, barren ordinary soil is not suitable for growing clivia and will seriously affect the normal growth of clivia.
In addition, the pH of soil differs among different regions; neutral or slightly acidic soil should be chosen, with a pH between 6.5 and 7.
3. Fertilizer: As the saying goes, "For a crop to bloom, it all depends on fertilizer to run the show." Fertilizer is an indispensable and important nutrient source for the vigorous growth of clivia; clivia is a fertilizer-loving flower, and mature clivia must have ample fertilizer.
Fertilizing clivia should be determined according to the size, variety, growth and development status and season of the clivia. Applying too much or too little fertilizer is not conducive to the growth of clivia. Too much will cause root burn, and the leaves will wrinkle or stall; too little will cause a lack of nutrients, and the clivia will grow slowly, with the leaves clearly becoming narrower, soft and not upright.
Types and uses of fertilizer: fertilizers are divided into solid fertilizer and liquid fertilizer.
Solid fertilizer: castor seeds, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, perilla seeds and the like, after being fried and cooked, with a small amount of bone meal added, make a very good solid fertilizer. Solid fertilizer is usually used as base fertilizer (bottom fertilizer and waist fertilizer), applied twice a year (April-May in spring, September-October in autumn), but it must not touch the roots, so as to avoid causing root burn.
Liquid fertilizer: sesame, peanuts, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, freshwater fish (with internal organs removed) and the like, after full fermentation, make a good liquid fertilizer. Liquid fertilizer is used as a supplementary fertilizer; its fertilizer effect is quick, but its fertility is short-lived, and it can be applied once every half month. The application of liquid fertilizer should follow the principle of low concentration and small amounts applied frequently, to prevent overly strong fertilizer from burning the roots. In spring and autumn, clivia grows vigorously, and liquid fertilizer should be applied to provide ample nutrients. When applying liquid fertilizer, prevent it from dripping onto the clivia leaves or heart, so as to avoid leaf rot or heart rot; after each fertilization, use a spray bottle to spray clean water to rinse the clivia leaves or heart.
What has been discussed above is all organic fertilizer; inorganic fertilizer can also be used, and takes effect more quickly. The growth of clivia stresses nutritional balance; it needs not only the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium we are familiar with, but also various trace elements. A serious deficiency of any one element will have an adverse effect on the normal growth of clivia. This is also the reason people have long mostly used organic fertilizer.
4. Light: Light is an indispensable element for clivia's photosynthesis. It needs ample light; when growing clivia indoors it should be placed on a windowsill to ensure ample light. It is not tolerant of strong light and likes weak light (dappled light); in summer when the light is strong, shading treatment is needed to prevent scorching the leaves. Clivia leaves have a strong phototropic tendency; regularly adjust the angle toward the light so that the plant shape is neat, and if conditions permit, the direction of leaf extension should be aligned with the north-south direction.
Clivia leaves should be kept clean; often wipe the dust off the leaves with a soft damp cloth, which is beneficial to photosynthesis.
5. Temperature: The suitable temperature for clivia growth is 15°C-25°C, neither cold nor hot.
In summer, above 25°C, measures such as ventilation and shading should be taken to lower the temperature; above 30°C with low humidity will cause the leaf luster to fade, and high temperature with abundant water will make the leaves grow too long; high temperature may even cause high fever disease, causing the whole plant to rot away.
Below 10°C growth and development will be slow; below 5°C growth will be inhibited; below 0°C the leaves will freeze and be damaged or die.
6. Humidity: Clivia likes a warm and humid environment; low environmental humidity will affect the luster of the leaves; dry air and wind and sun in the open field will make the leaves lose their delicate luster, becoming rough with dull color. People have found that clivia cultivated in flower cellars is delicate, moist and lustrous, while clivia grown on windowsills cannot achieve this effect; the reason lies precisely in this. The solution is to try to create a small environment similar to a flower cellar on the balcony.
To grow clivia well in summer, one should achieve the "six preventions" and "six don'ts".
1. Prevent direct sunlight, do not expose to blazing sun. In summer, clivia should be shielded from strong light all day. Using the slanting sunlight to sun it for a while in the early morning each day is enough to satisfy photosynthesis.
2. Prevent high temperatures, do not let it dry out. The suitable temperature for clivia in summer is 18°C-25°C; it is best to put it in an air-conditioned room, and a shaded, ventilated spot on a balcony is also acceptable. When watering, it is best to use tap water that has been sunned for two or three days, and water once after 6 o'clock every afternoon; do not let the potting soil become too dry or too wet.
3. Prevent leggy growth, do not fertilize. Summer is the dormant period of clivia; stop fertilizing, water moderately, and controlling humidity is an effective measure. If the potting soil has been fertilized too heavily or the fertilizer effect is relatively strong, pour out the upper part of the soil from the pot, mix in 1/3-2/3 sand, mix evenly and put it back into the pot; this not only reduces the fertilizer effect but also has a cooling effect.
4. Prevent dust pollution, do not water with dirty water. The leaf surface of clivia should be kept clean; once a week dip a fine gauze in clean water, wring it dry and gently wipe once. Watering with dirty water will cause the roots and leaves to rot and turn yellow.
5. Prevent soil compaction, do not use clay (loess) in the pot. Clivia is suited to cultivation in loose, air-permeable, water-permeable, fertile humus soil with a pH of about 7.0.
6. Prevent disease, do not let it become infected. When changing the soil or wiping the leaves, move gently to prevent the roots and leaves from being wounded and exuding sap, which triggers infection and causes decay.
16. Cyclamen
Cyclamen is native to the southeastern coast of the Mediterranean, in the low-mountain forest zones along the coast from Israel and Jordan to Greece. It is now widely cultivated around the world. Cyclamen likes a cool, humid environment with ample light. The suitable growth temperature is 15-20°C; below 10°C, growth vigor weakens, the flower color becomes dull, and the flowers easily wither; when the temperature reaches above 30°C, the plant enters dormancy. In the hot summer regions of our country, at that time, cyclamen is in a dormant or semi-dormant state; while in the Kunming area of Yunnan Province, where it is like spring all year round, the summer is cool and humid, so it does not go dormant and continues normal growth. When the temperature exceeds 35°C, the plant is very easily damaged and rots to death. During the seedling stage it has relatively strong resistance to high temperatures. During the growing season the relative humidity should preferably be 70%-75%. Cyclamen is neutral to day length, and temperature is the main environmental factor affecting flower bud differentiation. The suitable temperature for flower bud differentiation is 15-18°C. During the growing season the required light intensity is 28000-36000 Lx; if higher than 45000 Lx or lower than 15000 Lx, the intensity of photosynthesis decreases significantly. However, it is also not tolerant of strong sunlight in summer and should be cultivated under a shade shed. It often self-pollinates, and can also cross-pollinate. It has relatively strong resistance to sulfur dioxide and is suitable for indoor greening in factory areas.
I. Key points for propagation and cultivation of potted cyclamen: cultivation techniques
Seed propagation is mostly used. Sow in September and it flowers the following winter. The method of cutting the seed bulb can also be used for propagation, but it easily rots, so it is mostly not adopted. The key to cultivation lies in keeping a cool but not overly humid environment during the summer dormant period. Two- to three-year-old bulbs have the strongest growth, so old bulbs are often culled. Repot once a year.
II. Propagation and cultivation care of cyclamen
1. Sowing: Cyclamen tubers cannot naturally produce small tubers, so seed propagation is generally used. However, cyclamen virus damage is serious, and seeds often have a relatively high virus infection rate; if the virus infection rate is >20%, then before sowing, the seeds must be subjected to virus-elimination treatment. The method is: soak the seeds in 0.1% mercuric chloride for 1-2 minutes, then rinse them clean with water; then soak them in 10% sodium phosphate solution for 10-20 minutes, and rinse clean; finally soak them in a 35-40°C gelatinous solution and treat for 48 hours, rinse clean with water, and they can then be sown. Determine the sowing date according to the time the flowers are to be supplied. Generally sow 13 months before the flower supply time; even early-flowering varieties need 8-10 months. To supply flowers for Christmas, New Year's Day and the Spring Festival, sowing is usually done in September-October.
Cyclamen germination is slow, emergence is uneven, and the germination rate is about 85%-95%. To promote earlier and more uniform germination, seed soaking and sprouting can be done before sowing (virus-free seeds sown immediately do not need sprouting). Soak the seeds in cold water for 24 hours or in warm water at 30°C for 2-3 hours, wash off the sticky material on the seed surface, wrap them in a wet cloth for sprouting, and treat them at 25°C for 1-2 days. When the seeds show slight signs of sprouting, take them out and sow. For the sowing soil, mix vermiculite and fine furnace slag in equal amounts; mix peat soil and vermiculite in equal amounts; or prepare loam, leaf mold, and river sand in equal amounts. Sow in spots, with a spacing of 2cm x 2cm, and cover with 0.5cm of soil. Use the pot immersion method to keep the potting soil moist, at 18-20°C, and germination takes 30-40 days. When the seedlings have 1 true leaf, prick them out at a spacing of 3.5cm x 3.5cm, using soil mixed in a ratio of 5 leaf mold, 3 loam, and 2 river sand. When planting, keep the top of the small tuber level with the soil surface, maintain moisture, place in low light during the seedling recovery period, and after growth resumes, gradually increase light, strengthen ventilation, with 15-18°C being suitable, apply appropriate topdressing, and be careful not to let fertilizer liquid touch the leaves, so as to avoid causing rot. When the seedlings have 3-5 leaves, pot them up.
2. Tuber division method For excellent varieties of cyclamen that set fruit poorly, the tuber division method can be used for propagation. In late August, when the tuber is about to sprout, cut the tuber vertically from the top into several pieces, each piece needing to have a bud eye, coat the cut surfaces with plant ash or charcoal powder, let them dry slightly, and then they can be planted in pots. Careful maintenance and management are required. This method has a low propagation coefficient, the tubers rot easily, management is difficult, flowering is sparse, the plant shape is unattractive, and the tubers exposed above the soil surface are not round and neat, so it is rarely used.
In recent years, extensive research has been carried out internationally on the vegetative propagation of cyclamen. Successful methods include: 1. tuber tissue culture, cutting the tuber into pieces and culturing them under sterile conditions to form regenerated plants; 2. using leaf buds with some tuber tissue for cuttings; 3. in the original pot, cutting off the upper part of the tuber and then cutting it vertically to form regenerated seedlings, etc. The third method is mainly introduced below. The cyclamen tuber comes from the enlarged and metamorphosed hypocotyl. After the upper part is cut off, adventitious buds can grow from the cut surface and then form regenerated plants. By dividing 1 tuber, many regenerated individuals can be obtained. The procedure is: select a robust, plump, and large tuber, and divide it 1-2 months after flowering; the suitable period for division is May to June. First adjust the moisture of the potting soil, because if division is done under normal cultivation conditions, the wound will secrete a large amount of sap. This bleeding not only affects growth vigor, but especially hinders the formation of adventitious buds, and also easily leads to rot. Therefore, watering should be controlled to reduce soil moisture. When the leaf tips feel soft to the touch, this is the suitable time for division. First cut off the upper part of the tuber, with a thickness of about 1/3 of the tuber. Then make radial cuts (for tubers with a diameter below 4cm) or checkerboard cuts (for tubers with a diameter above 4cm) vertically, with the depth not injuring the root system. If checkerboard cutting is done, the cut spacing is 1cm; a tuber with a diameter of 6cm can be cut into 27 pieces.
After division, immediately cover the flower pot with plastic film and carry out curing treatment at 30°C until the wound forms periderm, which takes about 12 days, then promote adventitious buds at 20°C. During this period (about 20-30 days), the key point of management is to maintain the soil moisture at the time of division. The pot can be weighed together with the soil at the time of division, and every 2-3 days the lost water is replenished according to weight. At 70-80 days after division, each cut piece forms adventitious buds; lower the temperature to 15°C so that they gradually adapt to the environment. From the beginning of adventitious bud formation (about 35 days after division), gradually increase the amount of water given, and apply liquid fertilizer once a week. About 100 days after division, regenerated plants are basically formed, and they can be transplanted into pots. Usually they flower 11-14 months after division. This method is carried out in the original cultivation pot, is simple and easy to perform, and does not require complex techniques or equipment; the time to form regenerated plants is short; the regenerated individuals have consistent traits; and the regeneration rate is high. It is a vegetative propagation method with great application prospects. It can be used to multiply clonal lines of excellent varieties; in addition, it also has practical value in the production of first-generation hybrid (F1) seeds.
III. To meet the need for flower supply in different periods, the following methods are mainly used to control the flowering period:
1. Adjust the sowing date By making use of the seedlings' relatively strong tolerance to high temperatures, place them in a cool and ventilated environment so that they do not go dormant in summer, thereby advancing the flowering period. Sowing can be done from December to early summer, and flowering occurs in about 12 months. The sowing time can be determined according to the required flower supply period.
2. Control environmental factors to delay or advance dormancy of the plants, or to break or prolong dormancy of dormant tubers. For example, for flowering plants about to enter dormancy, apply additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, provide appropriate shading, and place them in a cool and ventilated place at 25°C, then they can continue to bloom until June to July.
3. Use certain volatile chemical agents to break or promote dormancy of the bulbs, so as to control the flowering period. For example, injecting aqueous solutions such as ether or camphor into the buds or fumigating with them can break dormancy. For example, in a sealed space of 1000 cubic meters, place 0.5cm of ether and treat for 24-48 hours; cyclamen tubers quickly break dormancy, resume growth, and bloom earlier. For another example, place a cloth ball soaked with ester solutions such as naphthaleneacetic acid ethyl ester or ethyl phenylcarbamate beside a cyclamen tuber about to sprout, which can keep the tuber from sprouting for several weeks, thereby delaying the flowering period.
IV. Prevention and control of cyclamen diseases and pests
1. Soft rot is caused by Bacterium
aroideae, and occurs under high temperature and high humidity in summer. It damages petioles and flower stalks, causing water-soaked softening; in dry weather the lesions dry up; in rainy weather they rot and smell foul. The pathogen overwinters in the soil. Control methods: first, the potting soil for planting must be thoroughly disinfected; second, in summer high temperatures, control water, do not apply nitrogen fertilizer, do not injure the plants, maintain air circulation, and provide appropriate shading; third, promptly remove diseased leaves and burn them, and spray with Bordeaux mixture.
2. Anthracnose is caused by the pathogen Glomerella
rufomaculans. The lesions are tea-brown, round, and sunken; afterward the lesions expand and bear black conidia. The spores disperse and infect by means of water. Control methods: remove infected leaves and petioles and burn them; avoid wetting the leaves when watering; in the early stage of the disease, spray with 50% carbendazim 500-600 times solution.
3. Nematode disease is caused by parasitism by Heterodera radicicola. Soil temperature of 25-30°C and soil moisture of about 40% favor nematode damage, invading the roots and forming root galls. Infected plants grow weakly, lower leaves turn yellow, and even the whole plant dies. Control methods: soil disinfection; burn infected plants; soaking in hot water at 50°C for 10 minutes can kill nematodes.
4. Aphids cause leaves to curl, petioles to bend, growth to be hindered, and flowers to fail to open. They can be controlled with dimethoate 1500 times solution. Red spider mite damage is also seen; spray with trichlorfon 1500 times solution.
17. Narcissus
In the cold winter months, narcissus can spread its green leaves and open elegant, fragrant flowers in a dish of clear water. Placed on a table indoors, it brings vitality and a feeling of spring.
According to Chinese flower introductions: narcissus cultivation methods include soil culture, sand culture, water culture, and carving and shaping. The cultivation requirements are not high; as long as the temperature is kept at about 15°C, there is sufficient sunlight, and water is frequently added and often changed, it can bloom in 25-30 days. But several points should be noted:
1. The temperature must not exceed 25°C, otherwise it will stop growing and enter dormancy, causing the flower buds to turn yellow, shrivel, and dry up;
2. Sunlight must be sufficient, otherwise the leaves will grow into garlic leaves;
3. The water used must be clean, otherwise water deterioration will cause pollution and root rot.
Narcissus has special growth characteristics; its flowering date can be decided by people themselves. If you want it to bloom during the Spring Festival, you can plant the bulb (narcissus head) in a pot about 20 days to 300 days before the Spring Festival. After being potted, it begins to grow until flowering. Several cultivation methods are introduced below:
Soil culture
For soil culture, the soil should be loose leaf mold. Before planting, peel off the dry, withered scale pieces on the outside of the narcissus head and scrape off the old roots, then add leaf mold to 3cm below the pot rim. Hold the pot with both hands and shake it so that the leaf mold becomes firm, then place the narcissus basal plate in the pot, continue adding soil for about 1cm, then water thoroughly, and place the flower pot in a cool place. After 5 days, when the basal plate has grown roots, place the flower pot in a sunny place for cultivation. For soil culture, watering should follow the principle of dry-wet alternation, that is, do not water when the soil is not dry, and once you water, water until it leaks from the bottom of the pot. Watering should be done in the morning and evening, otherwise it will damage root growth.
Sand culture
For sand culture, it is best to use clean, washed fine sand, and the pot should also be a breathable clay pot. Before planting, first put sand into the pot to 3cm below the pot rim, then place the narcissus head with old stem pieces and old roots removed into the flower pot filled with fine sand, then add about 1cm of sand so that the lower stem of the narcissus head is buried about 1cm in the sand. Then water thoroughly and place in a cool place. After 5 days, place it in a sunny place until flowering. When planting narcissus heads in sand, water thoroughly every day; failure to water in time will cause water deficiency and affect flower root growth. Watering should also be arranged in the morning and evening.
Water culture
Before water culture, also peel off the old stem pieces and old roots cleanly, then place them in the narcissus flower pot used for cultivation, add water to about 1cm below the lower bulb of the narcissus head, and place in a cool place. After the basal plate grows roots, place in a sunny place until flowering. For water-cultured narcissus, it is best to change the water every day. On the one hand, this prevents water deterioration and pollution that cause root rot; on the other hand, changing the water every day keeps the water clean and the roots grown white and beautiful.
Narcissus carving and shaping
In order to make the flowers and leaves grow in varied and graceful forms, the flower head must be carved. The specific procedure is: first peel off the dry, withered scales on the outside of the bulb and scrape off the old roots, then carve. When carving, first observe the growth trend of the buds, use the curved side as the carving surface, then use a small sharp knife to gently make a horizontal cut from left to right on the bulb 2cm from the basal plate, then make one vertical cut on each of the left and right sides, then peel off the scales within the range of the horizontal and vertical lines layer by layer, and at the same time dig out the scales between the buds until the leaves and light yellow flower scapes are exposed; at this point the leaves can be curled. Next, shape the flower scapes: use a small knife to scrape a line from top to bottom above the flower scape and below the flower bud, or use a needle to prick the flower scape several times from top to bottom; the growth of the flower scape will then become abnormal and also bend toward the wounded side. According to the requirements of different shapes, the degree and position of scraping differ. The carved and shaped narcissus head should be promptly soaked in water with the wounded surface facing down to remove the mucus secreted from the wound, changing the water every day, soaking for about 2-3 days. After the mucus is cleaned, take it out and cover the basal plate (root plate) with absorbent cotton. Then place the carved surface facing up, put it into a narcissus pot, add water, and cultivate in a cool place. Change the water once a day to keep the water clean. When the basal plate has grown roots about 1cm long, place the narcissus pot in a sunny place for cultivation. Remember that during cultivation the temperature should not exceed 20°C, change the water frequently, once a day, spray water frequently, 1-2 times a day, and provide frequent sunlight. In this way, the flowers cultivated will be luxuriant, fragrant, and graceful.;

How to grow lilies: teaching you the cultivation methods and precautions for potted lilies