Propagation methods for pot marigold: seed propagation and cutting propagation

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Pot marigold is a plant with a rather showy appearance and high ornamental value, and many people in China grow it. As more people grow it, questions about its propagation have also become a concern. As for how to propagate pot marigold, it is mainly done by sowing and cuttings.

I. How to propagate pot marigold: sowing/cuttings

As for how to propagate pot marigold, it is mainly divided into two methods: seed propagation and cutting propagation. As long as you master the correct operation methods, the survival rate of both methods is very high. The specific details are introduced in the section on pot marigold propagation methods below. Let us take a look.

II. Pot marigold propagation methods (seed propagation)

1. Seed collection

The fruit of pot marigold generally matures successively around May to July each year, and we can harvest it during this period. After harvesting, we should dry the fruit in the sun, then rub it apart to remove impurities, select the pure seeds among them and store them, and wait until autumn to sow them.

2. Seed germination

Before propagating pot marigold by sowing, we need to soak the seeds in warm water for 3-10 hours to promote germination. After the seeds begin to absorb water and swell, take them out and sow them. This can make the seeds easier to germinate. Of course, some seeds that germinate more easily can skip this step.

3. Sowing method

Because pot marigold seeds are relatively small, when sowing we can use a toothpick dipped in water to stick the seeds one by one onto the soil, then cover them with 1-2cm of soil and water them. When watering, we can place the flowerpot about halfway into water and let the water slowly seep into the soil.

III. Pot marigold propagation methods (cutting propagation)

1. Substrate selection

Cutting propagation is one of the main propagation methods for pot marigold. Before propagating, we first need to choose a substrate. Generally, it is best to choose fertile humus soil with slight acidity. This kind of substrate has good drainage and air permeability, can let it absorb nutrients better, and is not prone to waterlogging.

2. Substrate disinfection

After choosing the substrate, we need to disinfect it to prevent pests and diseases in it from infecting the plant. There are two disinfection methods. One is to break it up and spread it flat under the sun to disinfect it. The other is more direct: we can put it in a pot and stir-fry it. If there are pests or diseases, they will also be completely eliminated by the high temperature.

3. Cutting selection

After choosing the substrate, we also need to choose cuttings, which has a great impact on the survival rate of cuttings. Generally, it is best to choose relatively robust branches, so the survival rate is higher. If you choose branches that already look frail, then the cutting can basically be declared a failure.

4. Cutting method

The cutting method for pot marigold is very simple. First, we can use chopsticks to poke a hole in the substrate, then insert the cutting two-thirds of the way into it, after which we can water it. Be careful to water it thoroughly at one time, and after about 20 days it can take root.

Pot Marigold potmarigold Pot Marigold profile: how to grow pot marigold/how to propagate pot marigold

Pot Marigold card
Pot Marigold potmarigold
Aliases: Calendula, golden calendula, long-life chrysanthemum, sober-up flower, evergreen flower, calendula
Classification: biennial herbaceous flower
Family and genus: Plantae, Angiosperms, Dicotyledoneae, Asterales, Asteraceae, Calendula
Full bloom period: summer, spring
Pot marigold, also known as calendula, is a plant in the genus Calendula of the Asteraceae family. It is an annual or overwintering herbaceous plant that likes light and is not strict about soil. It can grow well in dry, loose, fertile alkaline soil and tolerates barren conditions. It is often used for flowerbed displays. In ancient Western times, calendula was used as medicine or dye, and also as cosmetics or food. The leaves and petals are edible and used as garnish for dishes. It is native to southern Europe. It has medicinal value: anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, clearing heat and reducing internal heat, treating acne and pimples. The flowering period of pot marigold is December to June, and the full bloom period is March to June. The achene is boat-shaped or claw-shaped, and the fruit ripening period is May to July.

Pot marigold cultivation methods and precautions, introduction to pot marigold

Pot marigold, also known as calendula, is a plant in the genus Calendula of the Asteraceae family. It is an annual or overwintering herbaceous plant that likes light and is not strict about soil. It can grow well in dry, loose, fertile alkaline soil and tolerates barren conditions. It is often used for flowerbed displays.
In ancient Western times, calendula was used as medicine or dye, and also as cosmetics or food. The leaves and petals are edible and used as garnish for dishes. It is native to southern Europe. It has medicinal value: anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, clearing heat and reducing internal heat, treating acne and pimples.
The flowering period of pot marigold is December to June, and the full bloom period is March to June. The achene is boat-shaped or claw-shaped, and the fruit ripening period is May to July.

Morphological characteristics of pot marigold
Pot marigold plants are 30-60cm tall and are biennial herbaceous plants, with the whole plant covered in white fine hairs. The leaves are simple and alternate, elliptical or elliptically obovate, with entire margins. The basal leaves have petioles, and the upper leaves clasp the stem at the base.
The capitulum of pot marigold is solitary at the top of the stem, large, 4-6cm, with one whorl of ligulate flowers, or multiple whorls spreading flat, golden yellow or orange-yellow, and tubular flowers, yellow or brown. There are also cultivated varieties such as double-flowered (actually multiple layers of ligulate flowers), curled petals, green centers, and deep purple flower centers.
The flowering period of pot marigold is December to June, and the full bloom period is March to June. The achene is boat-shaped or claw-shaped, and the fruit ripening period is May to July.

Ecological habits of pot marigold
Pot marigold likes a sunny, abundant environment and has strong adaptability. It can withstand low temperatures of -9°C and fears hot weather. It is not choosy about soil, but loose, fertile, slightly acidic soil is best. It can self-sow, grows quickly, is relatively cold-tolerant, and is not choosy about soil.
Pot marigold tolerates barren and dry soil and cool environments, and grows well in sunny and fertile areas.

Growth pattern of pot marigold
For larger seeds that can be picked up with hands or other tools, place the seeds directly into the substrate and sow them in spots at a spacing of 3 x 3 cm. After sowing, cover with substrate to a thickness 2-3 times that of the seeds.
After sowing, use a sprayer or a fine-hole watering can to wet the sowing substrate. Later, when the potting soil is slightly dry, water again. Still be careful not to water too forcefully, so as not to wash the seeds out. After normal flowering in early spring, sow in pots in late August, move to 8-10°C for cultivation after frost, place outdoors in a wind-sheltered sunny spot during the day, and place on an indoor sunny windowsill during severe cold.
Water about once a week to keep the potting soil moist, and apply a compound liquid fertilizer once a month, so that it can continue blooming even in deep winter. Sow in open ground in late August. Pot marigold likes sufficient sunlight, avoids extreme heat, and is relatively cold-tolerant. Large seedlings can withstand low temperatures of -9°C, while small seedlings are prone to frost damage. It likes loose and fertile soil with a pH of 6.5-7.5. The suitable temperature for seed germination is 20-22°C, and the growth temperature for small seedlings is about 15°C.

Cultivation techniques for pot marigold, key cultivation points
Pinching
Generally pinch twice before flowering to encourage more flowering branches to sprout:
One to two weeks after potting, or when the seedlings are 6-10 cm tall and have more than six leaves, remove the top shoot and keep the lower 3-4 leaves to encourage branching. Three to five weeks after the first pinching, or when the side branches grow to 6-8 cm long, carry out the second pinching, that is, remove the top shoots of the side branches and keep the 4 leaves below the side branches. After two pinchings, the plant shape will be more ideal and the number of flowers will also be greater.
Humidity management
It likes relatively high air humidity. If the air humidity is too low, individual flowers will fade faster. It also fears rain, and the leaves need to stay dry at night. The most suitable relative air humidity is 65-75%.
Temperature management
It likes a warm climate and avoids extreme heat. When the summer temperature is higher than 34°C, its growth is obviously poor; it is not tolerant of frost and cold, and when the winter temperature is below 4°C, it enters dormancy or dies. The most suitable growth temperature is 15-25°C.
Generally sow in autumn or winter to avoid high summer temperatures.
Light management
In spring, summer, and autumn, it needs to be maintained under shaded conditions. When the temperature is relatively high (daytime temperature above 25°C), if it is placed in direct sunlight for maintenance, the leaves will noticeably become smaller, the internodes of the branches will shorten, the lower leaves will turn yellow and fall off, and growth will be very slow or it will enter a semi-dormant state.
In winter, because the temperature is not very high, it should be given direct sunlight to help it carry out photosynthesis and form flower buds, bloom, and set fruit.
After maintaining it indoors for a period during the flowering stage (10-15 days), move it outdoors to a place with shade (and warmth retention) for a period of maintenance (about one month), and alternate like this to help the plant accumulate nutrients and continue blooming.
Fertilizer and water management
Like other herbaceous flowers, it has a relatively high demand for fertilizer and water, but the fertilization (and watering) principle should be followed: "light fertilizer applied frequently, small amounts but many times, complete nutrition," and after fertilizing, keep the leaves and flowers dry at night:
Spring and autumn
These two seasons are its peak growth periods. Fertilizer and water management follows the cycle of "Huabao" - "Huabao" - clear water - "Huabao" - "Huabao" - clear water (at least two times of "Huabao" must be guaranteed each week). The interval period is about: 1-4 days for outdoor maintenance; 2-6 days for indoor maintenance. On sunny days or during high temperatures, the interval is shorter; on rainy days or during low temperatures, the interval is longer or do not water.
Summer
During the high-temperature period in summer, it often enters a dormant state and has little demand for fertilizer and water, and may even need controlled fertilizer and water. Fertilizer and water management follows the cycle of "Huabao" - clear water - clear water - "Huabao" - clear water - clear water. The interval period is about: 3-5 days for outdoor maintenance, and 4-7 days for indoor maintenance. Try to water in the morning when the temperature is lower, and keep the leaves dry at night. Also spray the plant frequently.
Winter
During the winter dormant period, the main task is to control fertilizer and water. The interval period is about 7-10 days. Try to water at noon on sunny days when the temperature is relatively high.
Pruning
Cut off branches with old leaves and yellow leaves once every two months. As long as the temperature is suitable, it can bloom in all four seasons.
Growth pattern
Pot marigold plants are dwarf and dense, with flower colors including pale yellow, orange-red, yellow, etc., bright and eye-catching. It is a common herbaceous flower in early spring gardens, suitable for central squares, flowerbeds, and flower borders;
For larger seeds that can be picked up with hands or other tools, place the seeds directly into the substrate and sow them in spots at a spacing of 3 x 3 cm. After sowing, cover with substrate to a thickness 2-3 times that of the seeds. After sowing, use a sprayer or a fine-hole watering can to wet the sowing substrate. Later, when the potting soil is slightly dry, water again. Still be careful not to water too forcefully, so as not to wash the seeds out. After normal flowering in early spring, sow in pots in late August, move to 8-10°C for cultivation after frost, place outdoors in a wind-sheltered sunny spot during the day, and place on an indoor sunny windowsill during severe cold. Water about once a week to keep the potting soil moist, and apply a compound liquid fertilizer once a month, so that it can continue blooming even in deep winter.

Pot marigold cultivation methods, cultivation and maintenance
When the seedlings have 3 true leaves, transplant them once. When the seedlings have 5-6 true leaves, plant them in 10-12 cm pots. Seven to ten days after planting, pinch to encourage branching, or spray the leaf surface 1-2 times with 0.4% daminozide solution to control plant height. During the growth period, fertilize once every half month, or use "Huiyou" 20-20-20 general fertilizer. With sufficient fertilizer, pot marigold blooms more and larger. On the contrary, with insufficient fertilizer, the flowers noticeably become smaller and degenerate. If not saving seeds during the flowering period, cut off faded flowers, which is beneficial for flower branches to sprout, produce more flowers, and extend the viewing period. To save seeds, select plants with large, brightly colored flowers and pure varieties, and collect seeds on sunny days to prevent shedding.
During the growth period of pot marigold, the soil should be kept moist, and once every 15-30 days apply fully decomposed urine diluted 10 times with water, stopping fertilization at the end of February. When pot marigold reaches the late seedling stage and has 4-5 leaves, pinching the tips (that is, pinching) can encourage side branches to develop and increase the number of flowers. Immediately after the first batch of flowers fades, pinch off the tops, which can also encourage side branches to bloom again.
In addition, treat the seeds at low temperature before sowing: put the seeds in a 0°C refrigerator for 24 hours, take them out, and sow them directly in open ground. The seedbed should be shaded. They germinate in mid-August. Apply dilute decomposed manure water once a week, and they can also bloom in late September.
The flowering period of pot marigold can be regulated by changing cultivation measures. The main regulatory measures are as follows:
1. After normal flowering in early spring, promptly remove the faded flower stalks to encourage it to send out new branches and bloom again; strengthen water and fertilizer management, and it can bloom again in September-October.
2. Sow in pots in late August
3. Directly sow in the courtyard in late March or early April. After the seedlings emerge fully, thin them appropriately or transplant them, and give reasonable fertilizer and water conditions. They can bloom in early June. Because pot marigold needs a relatively long low-temperature stage to flower, spring-sown plants grow weaker and have smaller flowers than autumn-sown ones.
4. Sow in open ground in late August. When the lowest temperature rises to 0°C, immediately remove the straw curtain. At this time, water appropriately to keep the soil moist, and at the same time, add dilute cake fertilizer water once about every 15 days. In this way, by May Day, pot marigold can bloom beautifully.
In addition, now place pot marigold seeds in a 0°C refrigerator for several days for low-temperature treatment, then sow them in open ground in early August, and they can also bloom in late September.

Propagation methods of pot marigold
Pot marigold is generally propagated by seeds, and superior varieties can also be expanded by cuttings. Pot marigold seeds vary greatly in size. For example, if germinated for 72 hours, the germination rate of large seeds is as low as 62.5%, and that of small seeds is 22.5%, so use large seeds as much as possible when raising seedlings. After collecting seeds, they can be placed in a ventilated indoor place to dry in the shade, and must not be exposed to the scorching sun.
Seed propagation
Autumn sowing is often carried out after mid-to-late September: substrate disinfection. Disinfect the substrate used for sowing. The best method is to put it in a pot and heat it by stirring, so that any pests and diseases are killed by the heat. In addition, treat the seeds at low temperature before sowing: put the seeds in a 0°C refrigerator for 24 hours, take them out, and sow them directly in open ground. The seedbed should be shaded. They germinate in mid-August. Apply dilute decomposed manure water once a week, and they can also bloom in late September.
Germination promotion
Soak the seeds in warm hot water (temperature similar to face-washing water) for 3-10 hours, until the seeds absorb water and swell. For very common seeds that germinate easily, this work can be skipped.
Sowing
For tiny seeds that are difficult to pick up with hands or other tools, you can moisten one end of a toothpick with water, stick the seeds one by one onto the surface of the substrate, cover with substrate 1 cm thick, then place the sowing flowerpot into water with the water depth at 1/2-2/3 of the height of the flowerpot, and let the water slowly soak up (this method is called the "pot soaking method");
so as not to wash the seeds out;
Management after sowing
After sowing in autumn, when encountering a cold wave and low temperatures, you can wrap the flowerpot with plastic film to help keep it warm and moist; after the seedlings emerge, uncover the film promptly, and let the seedlings receive sunlight before 9:30 every morning or after 3:30 in the afternoon, otherwise the seedlings will grow very weak; after most of the seeds have emerged, appropriate thinning is needed: pull out the diseased and unhealthy seedlings so that the remaining seedlings have a certain amount of space from each other; when most of the seedlings have grown 3 or more leaves, they can be transplanted into pots.
Cutting propagation
Cutting substrate
This refers to nutrient soil or materials such as river sand and peat soil used for cuttings. For home cuttings, due to limited conditions, it is difficult to obtain an ideal cutting substrate. It is recommended to use the ready-mixed and disinfected cutting substrate provided by this site; medium-coarse river sand can also be used, but it must be rinsed several times with clean water before use. Do not use sea sand or river sand from saline-alkali areas, as they are not suitable for the growth of flowers and plants.
Selection of cutting branches
The branches used for cuttings are called cuttings. Usually, in combination with pinching, the thick, pest-free and disease-free top shoots that are removed are used as cuttings, and the top shoots are used directly for cuttings.
Management after cutting
Temperature
The most suitable temperature for rooting of cuttings is 18°C-25°C. Below 18°C, rooting of cuttings is difficult and slow; above 25°C, the cut ends of cuttings are easily infected by pathogens and rot, and the higher the temperature, the greater the proportion of rot. When encountering low temperatures after cutting, the main measure for warmth retention is to wrap the flowerpot or container used for cuttings with plastic film; when the temperature after cutting is too high, the main cooling measure is to shade the cuttings, blocking 50-80% of sunlight, and at the same time spray the cuttings 3-5 times a day. On sunny days with higher temperatures, spray more often; on rainy days with lower temperatures and higher humidity, spray less or not at all.
Humidity
After cutting, the relative air humidity must be kept at 75-85%. Humidity can be increased by spraying the cuttings 1-3 times a day. On sunny days, the higher the temperature, the more often you spray; on rainy days, the lower the temperature, the less often you spray or do not spray. However, excessive spraying makes cuttings prone to infection by pathogens and rot, because many kinds of pathogens exist in water.
Light
Cutting propagation cannot do without sunlight, but the stronger the light, the higher the temperature inside the cuttings, the more vigorous the transpiration of the cuttings, and the more water is consumed, which is not conducive to the survival of the cuttings. Therefore, after cutting, 50-80% of sunlight must be blocked. After the root system grows, gradually remove the shading. On sunny days, remove the shade net at 4:00 every afternoon and cover it again before 9:00 the next morning.
Potting or transplanting
When potting small seedlings, first place 2-2 cm thick coarse-grained substrate or ceramsite at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer, sprinkle a layer of fully decomposed organic fertilizer on top as base fertilizer, about 1-2 cm thick, then cover with a layer of substrate about 1-2 cm thick, and then place the plant in, so as to separate the fertilizer from the roots and avoid burning the roots.
For the substrate used for potting, one of the following can be selected. Vegetable garden soil: cinder = 3:1; or garden soil: medium-coarse river sand: sawdust (mushroom residue) = 4:1:2; or one of paddy soil, pond mud, or leaf mold. Or peat + perlite + ceramsite = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part; vegetable garden soil + cinder = 3 parts + 1 part; peat + cinder + ceramsite = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part; sawdust + vermiculite + medium-coarse river sand = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part. After potting, water thoroughly once and place in a slightly shaded environment for one week of maintenance.
When transplanting small seedlings, first dig the planting hole, sprinkle a layer of organic fertilizer at the bottom of the planting hole as base fertilizer (base manure), about 4-6 cm thick, then cover with a layer of soil and place the seedling in, so as to separate the fertilizer from the roots and avoid burning the roots. After placing the seedling in, backfill the soil to cover the root system, press the soil firm with your foot, and water thoroughly once.

Disease control of pot marigold
Pot marigold often suffers from Fusarium wilt and downy mildew. It can be controlled by spraying 500 times diluted 65% zineb wettable powder.
When the temperature rises in early summer, rust disease is often found on pot marigold leaves. Spray 2000 times diluted 50% carboxin wettable powder. In early spring during the flowering period, it is easily damaged by red spiders and aphids, which can be killed by spraying 1000 times diluted 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate.

Main varieties of pot marigold, variety classification
BonBon, plant height 30 cm, compact flowers, flower diameter 5-7 cm, flower colors include yellow, apricot yellow, orange, etc.
FiestaGitana, plant height 25-30 cm, early-flowering type, double flowers, flower diameter 5 cm, flower colors include yellow, orange, and bicolor, etc.
Kablouna series, plant height 50 cm, large-flowered type, flower colors include golden yellow, orange, lemon yellow, apricot yellow, etc., with dark flower centers. Among them, the 1998 new variety KablounaLemonCream has cream-colored ligulate flowers and a lemon-yellow flower center.
TouchofRed, plant height 40-45 cm, double flowers, flower diameter 6 cm, flower colors include red, yellow, and red/yellow bicolor, with the tip of each ligulate flower red.
Gem series, plant height 30 cm, double flowers, flower diameter 6-7 cm, flower colors include lemon yellow and golden yellow. Among them, DwarfGem is more famous.
Shengri Jita, extremely dwarf type, large flowers, double flowers, flower diameter 8-10 cm.
Xiangrui, extremely dwarf type, strong branching, large flowers, double flowers, flower diameter 7-8 cm.
There are also LemonQueen and OrangeKing, etc.

Distribution area of pot marigold
Calendula (Calendula officinalis) is native to western Europe, the Mediterranean coast, North Africa and western Asia, and is now cultivated all over the world.
The benefits and uses of calendula: container-growing benefits
Calendula plants are dwarf and compact, with flowers in pale yellow, orange-red, yellow and other colours; they are bright and eye-catching, and are a common herbaceous flower in early-spring gardens, suitable for planting in central plazas, flower beds and flower borders;
Calendula is one of the main ornamental materials for spring flower beds, with vivid colours and a golden glow; it can be planted out in flower beds or arranged into ribbon plantings, and can also be grown in containers or used as a cut flower.
Landscaping benefits
Because calendula is highly adaptable and has a certain degree of cold resistance, it can be sown in an open-air seedbed in early October of the previous year; once 3 true leaves have grown and the weather gradually turns cold, a small arch tunnel is then covered over it for overwintering. Flowers can be seen in late March of the following year; only after Qingming (early April) can it be transplanted into open-air flower beds.
It can also be sown in a small open-air arch tunnel from late February to early March, then transplanted into open-air flower beds in mid to late April; flowers can be seen in early May. As nursery stock for landscaping, it can create a beautiful landscape. Two points should be noted when sowing: first, the soil covering should be thin, just enough that the seeds are no longer visible; second, the sowing rate should be generous.
Ornamental value
Suitable for planting in central plazas, flower beds and flower borders, and can also be used as an edging flower for lawns or grown in containers for ornament. Large-flowered varieties with long stems can be used as cut flowers.
Calendula has a very strong resistance to sulfur dioxide and also has a certain resistance to cyanides and hydrogen sulfide, making it an excellent pollution-resistant flower; it is also a main material for spring flower beds and can be used as a cut flower or grown in containers.
Calendula is rich in a variety of vitamins, especially vitamin A and vitamin C; almost every part of the plant can be eaten; its petals have a cosmetic function. The flowers contain carotenoids, lycopene, violaxanthin, rubixanthin, volatile oil, resin, mucilage, malic acid and so on. The roots contain a bitter substance and arnidiol; the seeds contain glycerides, wax alcohol and alkaloids. Added to shampoo, it can lighten hair colour.
The benefits and uses of calendula: culinary and cosmetic value
Calendula is rich in a variety of vitamins, especially vitamin A and vitamin C; almost every part of the plant can be eaten; its petals have a cosmetic function. The flowers contain carotenoids, lycopene, violaxanthin, rubixanthin, volatile oil, resin, mucilage, malic acid and so on. The roots contain a bitter substance and arnidiol; the seeds contain glycerides, wax alcohol and alkaloids. Added to shampoo, it can lighten hair colour.
Lutein
Taking China's actual conditions into account, using the petals of the pot marigold (calendula) as a raw material to extract lutein oil and prepare lutein is a fairly promising direction for development. The calendula petals are subjected to fermentation -> dehydration -> granulation -> drying to obtain dried flower granules, which are extracted with n-hexane or another solvent to obtain an oleoresin; after removing the solvent, the product is dissolved in ethanol, then saponified with concentrated alkali, and the crystalline product is separated by centrifugation, then recrystallised to purify the product.

The dietary therapy or medicinal value of calendula
The medical information and health dietary therapy information on TheNaturePlanet is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health problem should be consulted with professional medical staff, and the treatment of any disease should follow a doctor's advice.
The ultimate plant-care mission: to love yourself, start from reality, and strictly follow a doctor's advice. When it comes to illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope; face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and tend the flower field within your heart with care.
Medicinal value
Actions: anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, clears heat and reduces internal heat, treats acne and pimples.
Calendula flowers and leaves have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects, with particularly good results against Staphylococcus and Streptococcus. Its antibacterial components are soluble in alcohol but not in water.
Calendula works better in an alkaline environment. Animal tests have shown that the flower extract has a sedative effect on the central nervous system and reduces reflex excitability; intravenous injection can cause a drop in blood pressure, enhance cardiac activity, increase heartbeat amplitude, slow the heart rate, promote bile secretion in dogs, and accelerate wound healing.
In European folk medicine, calendula is applied externally for various inflammations of the skin and mucous membranes, and can also be taken internally to treat various inflammations and ulcers (such as gastric and duodenal ulcers, gastritis, liver and gallbladder disorders, etc.). Used for cancers of the digestive tract, it can reduce toxic symptoms and improve appetite, sleep and so on; it has also been used for irregular menstruation. In test tubes, the tincture has a killing effect on viruses, but in mice with viral pneumonia caused by A2Frunzefluvirus, it showed no therapeutic effect. The aqueous extract of the leaves has the effect of accelerating blood coagulation (shortening prothrombin time), but this is related to the tannins and calcium salts it contains. Root: promotes the flow of qi and invigorates blood. Flower: cools the blood, stops bleeding.
Pharmacological effects
Used for cancers of the digestive tract, calendula can reduce toxic symptoms and improve appetite, sleep and so on; it has also been used for irregular menstruation. In test tubes, the tincture has a killing effect on viruses, but in mice with viral pneumonia caused by A2Frunzefluvirus, it showed no therapeutic effect. The aqueous extract of the leaves has the effect of accelerating blood coagulation (shortening prothrombin time), but this is related to the tannins and calcium salts it contains.
Nature and flavour
Bland, neutral.
Functions and indications
Root: promotes the flow of qi and invigorates blood. Flower: cools the blood, stops bleeding.
Selected formulas
(1) For cold pain in the stomach: fresh calendula root 50-100 g. Decoct in water, or decoct in wine or water.
(2) For hernia: fresh calendula root 100-200 g. Decoct in wine or water.
(3) For abdominal masses: dried calendula root 50-100 g. Decoct in wine or water.
(4) For intestinal wind with bloody stool: ten fresh calendula flowers, with an appropriate amount of rock sugar added. Decoct in water. (From "Fujian Chinese Herbal Medicine" onwards for nature, flavour and below.)

The cultural background of calendula: cultivation history
Calendula was initially regarded by Europeans as a lawn weed, and later the British and Northern Europeans used it as an ornamental lawn accent flower.
Thompson & Morgan of the United Kingdom and Danziger Flower Farm of Israel are famous in Europe for their breeding and production of calendula.

The flower language of calendula
Calendula flower language: the meaning of reluctant parting and separation.
Calendula pictures

The benefits and uses of calendula, and the propagation methods of calendula

Calendula, also called pot marigold and golden cup, is an annual or overwintering herbaceous plant. Today, our editor will share with you the benefits and uses of calendula and the propagation methods of calendula.

The benefits and uses of calendula:

1. Ornamental

Calendula has rich flower colours and is bright and eye-catching; it is suitable for planting in central plazas, flower beds and flower borders, and can also be used as an edging flower for lawns or grown in containers for ornament, so its ornamental value is fairly great.

2. Air purification

Calendula has a very strong resistance to sulfur dioxide and also has a certain resistance to cyanides and hydrogen sulfide, making it an excellent pollution-resistant flower. Whether grown in containers and placed in the home, or planted in home courtyards, roadside flower beds and other places, it can play a certain role in improving the air.

3. Culinary use

Calendula is rich in a variety of vitamins, especially vitamin A and vitamin C, and almost every part of the plant can be eaten.

4. Medicinal use

Calendula flowers and leaves have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects, with particularly good results against Staphylococcus and Streptococcus; the roots contain a bitter substance, and the seeds contain glycerides, wax alcohol and alkaloids, giving it a certain medicinal value.

Propagation methods of calendula:

1. Sowing is a very common propagation method. Autumn sowing is generally carried out in mid to late September, but before sowing the seeds need to be disinfected first. The best way to disinfect them is to put the seeds in a pan and stir-fry and heat them, so that the pests and diseases inside the seeds are all killed by the heat. Soak the seeds in warm water for about three to ten hours, until the seeds absorb water and swell, and then such seeds can germinate very easily. Place the seeds one by one on the surface, then put the sowing pot into water, and the water depth must not be too deep.

2. Cutting propagation is also a commonly used propagation method. When selecting cuttings, this is generally done together with pinching out the growing tips; the thicker top shoots that have been pinched off and are free of pests and diseases are used as cuttings. During cutting, the temperature must not be too low, otherwise the cuttings will not root easily and their growth will become even slower; but if the temperature is too high, the cut ends may rot, so when cutting, the temperature must not be too low, and at the same time must not be too high.