How to propagate the money tree? A detailed guide to three methods: sowing, cuttings and division
The money tree is a foliage plant that symbolizes wealth. Its leaves are round and thick, hanging from the branches like strings of copper coins, and from a distance it looks simply beautiful! In daily life, many people keep a money tree at home, so demand is high and money trees are naturally propagated in large numbers. So how do you propagate a money tree? Here are three propagation methods for the money tree
The money tree is a foliage plant that symbolizes wealth. Its leaves are round and thick, hanging from the branches like strings of copper coins, and from a distance it looks simply beautiful! In daily life, many people keep a money tree at home, so demand is high and money trees are naturally propagated in large numbers. So how do you propagate a money tree? Here are three propagation methods for the money tree; read on with the editor to learn more.
1. How to propagate the money tree: cuttings, sowing, division
For the average flower lover, mastering how to grow a money tree is enough, but if you are an old hand, understanding how to propagate a money tree is very necessary, as it can add to your growing enjoyment. As for how to propagate the money tree, as far as the editor knows there are three methods: cuttings, sowing and division. Let's take a look at the specific operations below.
2. The three propagation methods for the money tree
(1) How to sow the money tree
For large-scale propagation, sowing can be chosen for money tree propagation. After the fruit ripens in autumn, pick it, dry it in the sun and remove the shells, then use it for sowing; besides autumn sowing, it can also be stratified in damp sand and sown in spring. Method: how do you sow a money tree? Generally ridge sowing is used, with a ridge spacing of 60-70cm. Because the seed germination rate is low, the seeding rate is high, at 30-40kg/mu.
(2) The cutting method for the money tree
① Selecting cuttings
For propagating the money tree, the most commonly used method is still cuttings. Choose healthy one-year-old money tree leaves, and cut off the petiole together with a bit of stem as the cutting; you can also skip the stem and just use the petiole with the leaf; or you can cut a section of stem, remove the lower leaves, and keep 4 leaves at the top.
② Cutting medium
The cutting method for the money tree generally uses soil insertion, which naturally requires soil. The editor recommends choosing fine sand, or you can use a medium mixed from 3 parts peat soil, 1 part perlite and 1 part river sand.
③ Starting the cuttings
Insert the cutting into the prepared medium, with the insertion depth being 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length, leaving only the leaves outside the medium. After spraying thoroughly with water, place it in a shaded spot.
④ Care after cutting
After cutting, place the pot in an environment of 25-27°C, mist the leaf surface 1-2 times a day, and just keep the potting soil moist; never let it become overly wet. After 30-40 days, you will find that the leaves really have grown small roots, which basically means the cutting has succeeded.
(3) Division propagation of the money tree
① Timing for division
Besides sowing and cuttings, division is also one of the most common propagation methods for the money tree. The time can be chosen in April each year, when the temperature reaches above 18°C, as the survival rate of division is highest at this time.
② Removing from the pot and dividing
After choosing the time, pull out a robust money tree by hand, taking care not to damage the plant. After removing it from the pot, clean up the soil around the money tree's roots properly, then at the tuber at the base of the stem, slowly use your hands or a tool to break the divisions apart.
③ Planting the divisions
After dividing, apply plant ash or sulfur powder to the wounds, then plant them in a pot, not burying them too deep, 2 cm is enough. Note: divisions with buds should be planted separately, buried in moist fine sand, and moved into a pot for planting after they grow roots.
④ Later care
After division is complete, place the pot in a cool spot, maintain a temperature of 26°C, then water, paying attention to soil moisture, and mist the leaf surface with some water every day; this can give the divided money tree a higher survival rate.
Overall, propagating the money tree is not difficult; sowing, cuttings and division can all survive, but when it comes to convenience and survival rate, cuttings are still the best. Of course, methods are fixed but people are flexible; everyone can choose a method to propagate according to their actual situation. That is all the editor has to introduce about money tree propagation methods, and I hope it can be of help to everyone.
Winter daphne Daphne odora Thunb. Winter daphne guide: how to grow winter daphne / how to propagate winter daphne
Winter daphne profileWinter daphne Daphne odora Thunb.
Growing methods and precautions for winter daphne, an introduction to winter daphne
Winter daphne was called Lujia in ancient times, and is also known as Shuixiang, Penglai purple, Fengliu tree, Mao ruixiang, Qianli xiang and Shanmeng flower. It is an evergreen small shrub in the genus Daphne of the family Thymelaeaceae. It is native to the area south of the Yangtze River basin in China and to Japan. It has medicinal value. Winter daphne is native to China and Japan and is a traditional famous flower of China. Winter daphne blooms in early spring and has a rich fragrance. Its variety Jinbian ruixiang is the finest among winter daphnes, hence the saying, "The peony is the national beauty and heavenly fragrance, while among winter daphne flowers, Jinbian is the best."
The winter daphne plant is 1.5-2 m tall, with slender, smooth, hairless branches. The leaves are simple and alternate, the crown is nearly spherical, and the leaves are long elliptical, 5-8 cm long, with entire margins, deep green and glossy. They are dark green, thick in texture and shiny. The flowers cluster at the tips of the branches; the capitulum has a peduncle, the perianth is tubular and four-lobed at the upper end, the flower diameter is 1.5 cm, and the flowers are white, or purple or yellow, with a strong fragrance. It has the names "flower-snatching fragrance" and "flower thief"; if placed together with other flowers, the other flowers seem to lose their fragrance.
The flowering period of winter daphne is in February to March.
Morphological characteristics of winter daphne
Winter daphne is an evergreen erect shrub; the branches are thick and strong, usually dichotomously branched, and the branchlets are nearly cylindrical, purplish red or purplish brown, and hairless. The leaves are alternate, papery, oblong or obovate-elliptic, 7-13 cm long and 2.5-5 cm wide, with an obtuse-acuminate apex, a wedge-shaped base and entire margins, green above and pale green below, hairless on both sides, with 7-13 pairs of lateral veins that are clearly raised on both sides along with the midrib; the petiole is thick and strong, 4-10 mm long, sparsely covered with very few fine hairs or hairless.
The outside of the winter daphne flower is pale purplish red and the inside is flesh red, hairless, and several to 12 flowers form a terminal capitulum; the bracts are lanceolate or ovate-lanceolate, 5-8 mm long and 2-3 mm wide, hairless, with conspicuously raised veins; the calyx tube is tubular, 6-10 mm long, hairless, with 4 lobes that are cordate-ovate or ovate-lanceolate, with a cordate base, equal in length to or longer than the calyx tube; there are 8 stamens in 2 whorls, the lower whorl stamens inserted above the middle of the calyx tube, and the anthers of the upper whorl stamens extend 1/2 out of the throat of the calyx tube, the filaments are 0.7 mm long, and the anthers are oblong, 2 mm long; the ovary is oblong, hairless, with an obtuse apex, the style is short, and the stigma is capitate. The fruit is red.
The flowering period of winter daphne is March to May, and the fruiting period is July to August.
Ecological habits of winter daphne
Winter daphne prefers semi-shade and ventilated environments, fears exposure to the scorching sun, and is not tolerant of drought or waterlogging. It likes fertile, moist, well-drained, slightly acidic loam, has strong sprouting ability, and tolerates pruning.
Winter daphne likes warmth and ventilation, needs semi-dry and semi-moist conditions, and avoids too much water; it likes neutral to acidic soil and loose loam, should be planted shallowly and not planted deep, likes scattered light and long illumination, needs half shade and half sun, and avoids strong light; it likes nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and base fertilizer, should be given light fertilizer frequently, and avoid fertilizer touching the flowers. For potted winter daphne, the potting soil should be fertile, loose, humus-rich acidic leaf mold, mixed with an appropriate amount of river sand and decomposed cake fertilizer.
The roots of winter daphne are fleshy, so special attention should be paid to controlling watering during routine care. If watered too much and the potting soil stays wet for a long time, root rot is likely. After rain, the accumulated water in the pot must be poured out promptly.
Although winter daphne likes semi-shade, in winter and spring it should be placed in an environment with sunlight. During the growing period, if light is sufficient and fertilizer is appropriate, the branches can be plump and the leaves dark, and the flowers bright and fragrant. In summer it should be placed in a cool, well-ventilated place, and during hot weather water should be sprayed to lower the temperature. Winter daphne quite likes fertilizer, and during the growing season a dilute liquid fertilizer should be applied about once every 10 days. Before and after flowering, apply a dilute cake fertilizer solution once each. After Frost's Descent, move it indoors to a sunny spot, keep the room temperature at about 5°C, and control watering; keep the water content of the potting soil at about 45% so it can overwinter safely.
In addition, winter daphne has clustered branches and strong sprouting ability, tolerates pruning, and must be pruned after flowering.
Cultivation techniques for winter daphne, key cultivation points
Planting
In the south, winter daphne can be planted in the ground in spring and autumn. It is generally mixed-planted with deciduous shrubs, which can protect it from direct sunlight in summer while allowing it to receive sufficient sunlight in winter. When planting, compost or barnyard manure can be applied in the hole as base fertilizer, but not too much. The pot should also be changed once every 2-3 years; repotting can be done indoors in March, the potting soil should be slightly acidic, and hoof pieces should be placed at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer.
Fertilizing
During growth, 1-2 topdressings can be applied. In winter, fertilizer can be applied in trenches around the plant; do not apply human excrement or urine.
Watering
Watering should follow the principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet, and in summer water should also be sprayed on the leaf surface to lower the temperature.
Temperature and light
For potted winter daphne, summer care is very critical. The pot should be placed in a cool, well-ventilated place, protected from rain, direct sunlight and hot winds. Winter daphne is not cold-tolerant, and before winter it must be moved indoors and placed in a sunny spot, with the room temperature kept above 8°C.
Shaping and pruning
Winter daphne has strong sprouting ability and tolerates pruning. In summer, attention should be paid to pruning away leggy branches and leaves.
Bonsai creation
Material selection and cultivation measures
[Artificial propagation]: Winter daphne is mostly propagated by cuttings and layering, and can also be propagated by water cuttings, division and sowing. Cuttings can be taken all year round, but early March to late June is the best time for cuttings. For spring cuttings, select robust one-year-old branches as cuttings, about 5-10 cm long. The day before cutting the branch, a sharp knife can be used to make a ring cut at 0.1 cm at the branching point to promote healing and rooting. For those ring-cut at the branching point, cut them off at the right time and trim the cut smooth, and 2-4 leaves should be retained on the upper part of the cutting; for those not ring-cut at the branching point, if there are several divisions they can be cut separately for rooting. The insertion depth is about 1/3 or 1/2, and it should not be too deep. For home cuttings, a cutting pot can be used; for large-scale cuttings, a seedbed must be used, and the seedbed soil should preferably be loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil. After cutting, a protective shed must be set up to prevent sunlight and rain (bamboo strips can be arched into a 50-60 cm high frame and covered with plastic film). When the temperature is too high, a corner of the film shed must be opened for ventilation, and water must be controlled, not too wet. Generally, spring cuttings can root in about 30 days, and can be divided and transplanted in about 2 months. If cutting in summer and autumn, the cuttings must be selected from semi-lignified new branches of the current year, and robust branches about 8 cm long with a heel should be chosen. After cutting, the seedbed soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to keeping warm when the temperature drops. Generally they can also root in about 40 days, and then be transplanted for cultivation after the warmth of the next spring.
[Layering propagation]: Usually the air layering method can be used. Air layering is best done from May to June. First select a suitable branch, determine the layering position, use the notching method to make one or two horizontal cuts or a ring bark removal at the layered position, with the cut reaching the xylem, then wrap the cut area with a plastic bag or a half bamboo tube, tie the lower end tightly, apply growth hormone to the wound, then fill in the prepared culture soil and tie the upper end of the bag tightly. Keep the soil in the bag moist and fix the layered branch well to avoid breaking it. Generally it can root in about 40-50 days, and after about 2 months it can be cut from the mother branch and potted for cultivation. Propagating winter daphne by the water cutting method is simple and easy, and the survival rate is also relatively high.
Potting process
[Pot selection]: For winter daphne, a slightly deep round pot or square pot is suitable, and oval or rectangular pots can also be used. The pot material is best purple clay pottery. The pot color can be chosen as sunflower yellow or light gray, to set off the green leaves and white flowers and produce a contrasting effect.
[Soil]: Winter daphne likes to grow in fertile, loose, well-drained sandy loam, and requires slightly acidic soil with a pH value between 6 and 6.5. For potting, leaf mold or sun-dried, weathered garden soil mixed with an appropriate amount of rice husk ash or sandy soil can be used.
[Planting]: It is suitable to pot and plant in April in spring. At this time the climate is mild and humid, and the temperature difference between day and night is small, which is conducive to winter daphne adapting to the pot and growing. Autumn planting is also possible. When transplanting, more original soil must be kept, and the branches should be properly pruned.
Stem training techniques
[Processing]: Winter daphne bonsai is suitable for wiring with metal wire, combined with pruning for shaping. However, care must be taken to remove the metal wire in time to avoid wire embedding, which affects appearance and growth. Processing and shaping are suitable during the dormant period, and can also be done after flowering.
[Tree shape]: The tree shape of winter daphne bonsai should be made into a natural large-tree form, with branches and trunk upright, graceful and spreading, and attention should be paid to appropriate density so as to favor elegant branches and abundant flowers, rich color and fragrance, and enhance the ornamental effect.
Care and management
[Placement]: Winter daphne bonsai is suitable for placement in a warm, humid, half-shaded and half-sunny location. In summer it should avoid direct sunlight, and in winter it should be placed under a south-facing window with light and air circulation.
[Watering]: Winter daphne is not tolerant of wetness, and the potting soil should usually be kept on the dry side, with no water accumulation. In summer during high temperatures, water twice a day in the morning and evening; in spring and autumn watering should be reduced accordingly, but during the autumn bud stage, attention should be paid to keeping the potting soil from becoming too dry. On clear, dry days, water can often be sprayed on the leaf surface so that the branches and leaves remain moist, which is good for growth. In the rainy season, the pot can be moved under the eaves or a window to avoid rain.
[Fertilizing]: In winter, sufficient base fertilizer should be applied. In spring, apply 2-3 times decomposed cake fertilizer water, and the fertilizer solution should not be too concentrated. During the dog days of summer, stop applying fertilizer to avoid burning the root system. After the beginning of autumn, apply light fertilizer frequently until the flower buds open. In spring, apply fertilizer water mainly based on nitrogen and potassium; after autumn, fertilizing should mainly be based on phosphorus. After the flower buds form, potassium dihydrogen phosphate at a concentration of 0.1-0.2% can be sprayed on the branches and leaves for foliar feeding, but the fertilizer solution must be sprayed on the back of the leaves to improve fertilizer efficiency and promote abundant flowers and lush leaves. Winter daphne should avoid human excrement and urine fertilizer.
[Pruning]: Winter daphne is mostly pruned after flowering. Generally, the branches that have flowered can be cut short to promote more branching and increase the number of flowers the next year. Cut off leggy branches, crossing branches and overlapping branches, and also promptly cut off branches that affect appearance, so as to maintain a certain tree shape.
[Repotting]: It is suitable to do once every 2-3 years, preferably after flowering in spring, and also possible in autumn. When repotting, more old soil must be kept, the root system should not be disturbed too much, and some overly long fibrous roots can be properly cut off. Sufficient base fertilizer must be placed at the bottom of the pot.[7]
Growing methods for winter daphne, cultivation
Winter daphne is mainly propagated by cuttings, and can also be propagated by layering, grafting or sowing. Cuttings are mostly taken before Qingming and the beginning of summer, and can also be taken in autumn. Cut 8-10 cm of thick top branches, keep 2-3 leaves, soak in rooting promoter, then insert into a sand bed at a depth of 1/2 to 1/3 of the total length, then shade immediately, and roots will form in about 40 days. When taking winter daphne cuttings, people often split the lower end of the cutting and insert a stone the size of a grain of rice to increase the contact surface between the cutting and the medium and favor rooting. When taking cuttings at the beginning of autumn, the cutting bed can be covered with film to raise the temperature.
For ground-planted winter daphne, a soil ball is needed when transplanting, carried out in spring or autumn. Apply base fertilizer before frost, then apply 1-2 more topdressings, and apply one more flower-promoting fertilizer before winter. For potted winter daphne, first choose a cultivation medium that both retains water and drains water, often pond mud. Because winter daphne likes fertilizer, topdressing should be done at any time, but human excrement and urine should not be used. The flower pot should avoid direct sunlight, and in summer it must be shaded.
Management
Propagation can be done by cuttings in spring, summer and autumn. For spring cuttings, from late February to late March, select robust one-year-old branches about 10 cm long, cut off the lower leaves, keep 2-3 leaves, and then insert them into the seedbed; summer cuttings from mid-June to mid-July; autumn cuttings from late August to late September, all selecting current-year branches. For summer and autumn cuttings, cut robust current-year branches, and the base of the cutting is best with an internode, which is more conducive to rooting. Insert into a river sand pot at a depth of about 2/3, shade after cutting, and keep moist but not too wet; roots can form in 45-60 days. If the base of the cutting is dipped in woody plant rooting powder, it is even more conducive to rooting.
Air layering propagation is suitable in March-April when the plant sprouts new buds. First select robust 1-2-year-old branches, make a ring bark removal treatment 1-2 cm wide, then wrap the cut area with plastic sheeting, fill it with soil, tie the lower end tightly, and tie the upper end of the plastic sheeting tightly too, but leave a small hole for ventilation and watering, and keep the soil in the bag moist. Generally after more than 2 months roots will form. After autumn, cut it off from the mother plant and pot it or plant it separately.
It likes a warm environment, fears the scorching sun, likes shade, and fears cold. In summer it should be shaded and protected from rain and strong wind; in winter place it indoors in a sunny, wind-sheltered spot and maintain a room temperature above 8°C. Keep the leaf surface clean, and keep the potting soil from being too dry or too wet; do not let it freeze, and do not let there be coal smoke or cooking fumes indoors. It likes loose, fertile, well-drained acidic soil (pH 6 to 6.5), and avoids alkaline soil. Mountain soil or garden soil mixed with 40% peat soil, leaf mold, pine needle soil and an appropriate amount of coal ball ash, rice husk ash, urban waste, etc. can be used as the culture soil.
When cultivating, choose a half-shaded and half-sunny site with deep topsoil and moisture. To avoid direct sunlight while still allowing sunlight in winter, the method of mixed planting with deciduous trees and shrubs is often used. Transplanting can be done in both spring and autumn, but transplanting during the spring flowering period or the plum rain period is preferable. Adult trees do not tolerate transplanting, so when transplanting be sure to keep as much original soil as possible and also prune heavily.
Management after planting
Open-field cultivation is relatively extensive; water only when the weather is too dry; before overwintering, apply some decomposed barnyard manure around the clump. For potted winter daphne, keep the potting soil half dry and half wet, and apply fertilizer once each in spring and autumn. In spring during the bud sprouting and shoot-growing period, use a 30% decomposed mixed liquid fertilizer of soybean cake and chicken manure; in autumn in late September, the fertilizer concentration should be light. The fertilizing time should be chosen on a sunny day, preferably before 10 a.m. After 5 p.m. on the day of fertilizing, spray the leaf surface once with water. The water cannot be newly drawn tap water; it is best to use water that has been exposed to sunlight, or water stored indoors for a day, and the water temperature must not be lower than the indoor temperature. Do not spill the fertilizer solution on the leaf surface; if it is spilled, immediately rinse it off with water from a watering can. Fertilizer should mainly be nitrogen fertilizer and potassium fertilizer, that is, often a mixture of cake fertilizer and fishy fertilizer. But it must be fully fermented fertilizer solution, and a small amount of black alum water should also be added.
Winter daphne should not be given concentrated fertilizer, but light, dilute fertilizer. Note that fertilizer should not be applied when the potting soil is too wet or the temperature is too high or too low. From early summer, potted winter daphne should be placed under tree shade or in a shade shed to avoid strong light. The pot should not be placed directly on the ground, so that the flower's fragrance does not attract ants and earthworms. Winter daphne tolerates pruning relatively well. Generally before sprouting, densely growing small branches can be pruned away, leaving a certain space to favor ventilation and light transmission. Winter daphne should be shaped and pruned after flowering: cut short the branches that have flowered, and cut off leggy branches, overlapping branches, overly dense branches, crossing branches and other branches that affect the beauty of the tree shape, so as to maintain a graceful form. Winter daphne should be repotted and have its soil changed once every 2 to 3 years, generally after the flowers fade, and also possible in autumn. When repotting, remove 2/3 of the old soil, properly trim away some overly long fibrous roots, and combined with repotting, properly raise the roots.
Before Qingming at the end of March, winter daphne can be moved outdoors, but it must be protected from strong wind and heavy rain so that the newly sprouted tender buds of winter daphne are not harmed. By the end of April, gradually shorten the light time. From mid-June to mid-September it can be without light all day. This is because in summer winter daphne basically stops growing and enters a semi-dormant state. During this period, prevent heavy rain and strictly prohibit fertilizing.
It is also necessary to create a cool, well-ventilated environment for it and reduce the amount of watering. After winter daphne gets through the summer, from late September to early October it can see some morning sunlight, 2 to 3 hours is good, and afterward the light time can be gradually extended. By the end of October it can have all-day light. Depending on different climate conditions in various places, winter daphne should be moved indoors in October or early November, and after being moved indoors it should be placed in a position with long light hours. In mid-November and early and late December, apply a thin fertilizer solution once each. Because the flower buds of winter daphne grow slowly, fertilizer should not be applied too frequently, too much or too concentrated, but it also cannot be omitted.
Key care points
Placement
Winter daphne bonsai is suitable for placement in a warm, humid, half-shaded and half-sunny location. In summer it should avoid direct sunlight, and in winter it should be placed under a south-facing window with light and air circulation.
Watering
Winter daphne is not tolerant of wetness, and the potting soil should usually be kept on the dry side, with no water accumulation. In summer during high temperatures, water twice a day in the morning and evening; in spring and autumn watering should be reduced accordingly, but during the autumn bud stage, attention should be paid to keeping the potting soil from becoming too dry. On clear, dry days, water can often be sprayed on the leaf surface so that the branches and leaves remain moist, which is good for growth. In the rainy season, the pot can be moved under the eaves or a window to avoid rain.
Fertilizing
In winter, sufficient base fertilizer should be applied. In spring, apply 2-3 times decomposed cake fertilizer water, and the fertilizer solution should not be too concentrated. During the dog days of summer, stop applying fertilizer to avoid burning the root system. After the beginning of autumn, apply light fertilizer frequently until the flower buds open. In spring, apply fertilizer water mainly based on nitrogen and potassium; after autumn, fertilizing should mainly be based on phosphorus. After the flower buds form, potassium dihydrogen phosphate at a concentration of 0.1-0.2% can be sprayed on the branches and leaves for foliar feeding, but the fertilizer solution must be sprayed on the back of the leaves to improve fertilizer efficiency and promote abundant flowers and lush leaves. Winter daphne should avoid human excrement and urine fertilizer.
Pruning
Winter daphne is mostly pruned after flowering. Generally, the branches that have flowered can be cut short to promote more branching and increase the number of flowers the next year. Cut off leggy branches, crossing branches and overlapping branches, and also promptly cut off branches that affect appearance, so as to maintain a certain tree shape.
Repotting
It is suitable to do once every 2-3 years, preferably after flowering in spring, and also possible in autumn. When repotting, more old soil must be kept, the root system should not be disturbed too much, and some overly long fibrous roots can be properly cut off. Sufficient base fertilizer must be placed at the bottom of the pot.
Sunlight: likes semi-shade, avoids direct sunlight.
Temperature: fears high temperature and heat; growth stops when the temperature exceeds 25°C; not cold-tolerant, so in northern China it should be potted and moved indoors to overwinter in winter.
Soil: avoids saline-alkaline soil, and is suitable for growing in fertile, moist, well-drained acidic soil.
Water: fears rain and waterlogging.
Propagation methods for winter daphne
Winter daphne is generally propagated by cuttings and air layering, among which cuttings are the main method, and cuttings can be taken in spring, summer and autumn. Spring cuttings are done in February-March, before the plant sprouts; select robust one-year-old branches, cut them into sections about 10 cm each, and keep 2-3 leaves at the upper end of the branch for later use. Summer cuttings and autumn cuttings are done in June-July and August-September respectively, selecting robust current-year branches as cuttings. The cutting bed uses river sand or vermiculite, and the branches are inserted to a depth of 1/3-1/2. After cutting, water thoroughly, then enclose with a plastic film arch shed, observe frequently, and keep the cutting bed soil moist, not too dry or too wet. Summer cuttings need attention to shading, and autumn cuttings need attention to cold and freeze protection. Generally roots form in 1-2 months, then transplant and pot.
Winter daphne is mainly propagated by cuttings, and can also be propagated by layering, grafting or sowing. Cuttings are mostly taken before Qingming and the beginning of summer, and can also be taken in autumn. Cut 8-10 cm of thick top branches, keep 2-3 leaves, soak in rooting promoter, then insert into a sand bed at a depth of 1/2 to 1/3 of the total length, then shade immediately, and roots will form in about 40 days. When taking winter daphne cuttings, people often split the lower end of the cutting and insert a stone the size of a grain of rice to increase the contact surface between the cutting and the medium and favor rooting. When taking cuttings at the beginning of autumn, the cutting bed can be covered with film to raise the temperature. For ground-planted winter daphne, a soil ball is needed when transplanting, carried out in spring or autumn. Apply base fertilizer before frost, then apply 1-2 more topdressings, and apply one more flower-promoting fertilizer before winter. For potted winter daphne, first choose a cultivation medium that both retains water and drains water, often pond mud. Because winter daphne likes fertilizer, topdressing should be done at any time, but human excrement and urine should not be used. The flower pot should avoid direct sunlight, and in summer it must be shaded.
Cutting propagation
Jinbian ruixiang likes sunlight but fears the scorching sun, tolerates dryness and avoids soaking wetness. It is suitable for planting with sun-exposed pond mud and humus as potting soil, and flowering at Spring Festival can be ensured by controlling light, temperature and water.
Jinbian ruixiang flowers but does not set seed, and is mainly propagated by cuttings, which can be done in spring, summer and autumn, with summer cuttings having the highest survival rate. Select semi-lignified branches of the current year as cuttings, and the cut should be smooth; scissors or blades should be sterilized at high temperature with an alcohol lamp or lighter. Cut the branches into 8 cm lengths, keep 4-6 leaves, soak the inserted part in a special rooting agent, then dip it in carbendazim powder, and insert 3/5 of the plant into the culture material. The culture material uses rice husk ash burned until carbonized but not ashed and extinguished by pouring cold water, then scalded with boiling water or treated with potassium permanganate solution to remove alkali and sterilize. Cover with film for 15 days to keep moist; generally roots form in 30 days, and transplanting into pots is done in 50 days. It is better to apply isolated-air fermented decomposed human excrement or cake fertilizer water, doing so in small amounts many times, and appropriately increasing phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Combine pruning and shaping with pest elimination to make Jinbian ruixiang upright and elegant. In the Spring Festival of that same year it can already produce waves of rich fragrance and brightly colored flowers, and after the second year it can grow into a large ornamental bonsai with a graceful posture.
Water cuttings
Water cuttings are generally done in summer, when new branches tend to mature, making it a good season for water cuttings. The water cutting method roots quickly and has a high survival rate (almost 100%), and can reduce the number of times water is sprayed. The specific method is: take current-year branches 8-12 cm long. The day before cutting the branch, it is best to use a sharp knife to cut a ring at 1-2 mm at the branching point (do not use scissors); this can accelerate healing and rooting. After ring cutting at the branching point, trim the wound smooth, remove the lower half of the leaves on the branch, keep 3-4 leaves at the upper part, and cut off the rest. Then insert it into a pre-prepared wide-mouthed bottle. Fill the bottle with about 3/4 water, and add 2-3 drops of vinegar. The cutting should be about 1/3 in the water, held upright and fixed. Cover the bottle mouth with gauze and tie it tightly. After cutting, place it on an indoor windowsill, and when the water decreases, add water to the original level. After about 5 days, spray the leaf surface with water 1-2 times, change the water once a week, and roots can form within one month. Transplant into pots in time.
Bud cuttings
Bud cuttings are done before sprouting in spring. Select the cutting from plump, robust current-year branches in the middle and upper part of the crown, keep one leaf at the top, and there should be an obvious bud point at the leaf axil; a cutting of one leaf and one bud per section is best. When taking the cutting, a sharp knife must be used, cutting downward from above the axillary bud and cutting obliquely into a horseshoe shape. Be careful not to damage the axillary bud, so as to favor rooting and sprouting. Use pine needle soil plus 30% fine sand as the cutting medium, which makes it easy to insert and fix short cuttings. Note that before cutting, the pine needle soil and fine sand medium must be placed in the sun for exposure and disinfection. When cutting, insert 1/2 into the soil, press firm after cutting, sprinkle a little water, keep moist, and roots and survival can be achieved in about 40 days. After new branches grow, transplant into pots in the spring of the following year.
Propagation management
Propagation can be done by cuttings in spring, summer and autumn. For spring cuttings, from late February to late March, select robust one-year-old branches about 10 cm long, cut off the lower leaves, keep 2-3 leaves, and then insert them into the seedbed; summer cuttings from mid-June to mid-July; autumn cuttings from late August to late September, all selecting current-year branches. For summer and autumn cuttings, cut robust current-year branches, and the base of the cutting is best with an internode, which is more conducive to rooting. Insert into a river sand pot at a depth of about 2/3, shade after cutting, and keep moist but not too wet; roots can form in 45-60 days. If the base of the cutting is dipped in woody plant rooting powder, it is even more conducive to rooting.
Air layering propagation is suitable in March-April when the plant sprouts new buds. First select robust 1-2-year-old branches, make a ring bark removal treatment 1-2 cm wide, then wrap the cut area with plastic sheeting, fill it with soil, tie the lower end tightly, and tie the upper end of the plastic sheeting tightly too, but leave a small hole for ventilation and watering, and keep the soil in the bag moist. Generally after more than 2 months roots will form. After autumn, cut it off from the mother plant and pot it or plant it separately.
It likes a warm environment, fears the scorching sun, likes shade, and fears cold. In summer it should be shaded and protected from rain and strong wind; in winter place it indoors in a sunny, wind-sheltered spot and maintain a room temperature above 8°C. Keep the leaf surface clean, and keep the potting soil from being too dry or too wet; do not let it freeze, and do not let there be coal smoke or cooking fumes indoors. It likes loose, fertile, well-drained acidic soil (pH 6 to 6.5), and avoids alkaline soil. Mountain soil or garden soil mixed with 40% peat soil, leaf mold, pine needle soil and an appropriate amount of coal ball ash, rice husk ash, urban waste, etc. can be used as the culture soil. When cultivating, choose a half-shaded and half-sunny site with deep topsoil and moisture. To avoid direct sunlight while still allowing sunlight in winter, the method of mixed planting with deciduous trees and shrubs is often used. Transplanting can be done in both spring and autumn, but transplanting during the spring flowering period or the plum rain period is preferable. Adult trees do not tolerate transplanting, so when transplanting be sure to keep as much original soil as possible and also prune heavily.
Management after planting
Open-field cultivation is relatively extensive; water only when the weather is too dry; before overwintering, apply some decomposed barnyard manure around the clump. For potted winter daphne, keep the potting soil half dry and half wet, and apply fertilizer once each in spring and autumn. In spring during the bud sprouting and shoot-growing period, use a 30% decomposed mixed liquid fertilizer of soybean cake and chicken manure; in autumn in late September, the fertilizer concentration should be light. The fertilizing time should be chosen on a sunny day, preferably before 10 a.m. After 5 p.m. on the day of fertilizing, spray the leaf surface once with water. The water cannot be newly drawn tap water; it is best to use water that has been exposed to sunlight, or water stored indoors for a day, and the water temperature must not be lower than the indoor temperature. Do not spill the fertilizer solution on the leaf surface; if it is spilled, immediately rinse it off with water from a watering can. Fertilizer should mainly be nitrogen fertilizer and potassium fertilizer, that is, often a mixture of cake fertilizer and fishy fertilizer. But it must be fully fermented fertilizer solution, and a small amount of black alum water should also be added. Winter daphne should not be given concentrated fertilizer, but light, dilute fertilizer. Note that fertilizer should not be applied when the potting soil is too wet or the temperature is too high or too low.
From early summer, potted winter daphne should be placed under tree shade or in a shade shed to avoid strong light. The pot should not be placed directly on the ground, so that the flower's fragrance does not attract ants and earthworms. Winter daphne tolerates pruning relatively well. Generally before sprouting, densely growing small branches can be pruned away, leaving a certain space to favor ventilation and light transmission. Winter daphne should be shaped and pruned after flowering: cut short the branches that have flowered, and cut off leggy branches, overlapping branches, overly dense branches, crossing branches and other branches that affect the beauty of the tree shape, so as to maintain a graceful form. Winter daphne should be repotted and have its soil changed once every 2 to 3 years, generally after the flowers fade, and also possible in autumn. When repotting, remove 2/3 of the old soil, properly trim away some overly long fibrous roots, and combined with repotting, properly raise the roots.
Before Qingming at the end of March, winter daphne can be moved outdoors, but it must be protected from strong wind and heavy rain so that the newly sprouted tender buds of winter daphne are not harmed. By the end of April, gradually shorten the light time. From mid-June to mid-September it can be without light all day. This is because in summer winter daphne basically stops growing and enters a semi-dormant state. During this period, prevent heavy rain and strictly prohibit fertilizing. It is also necessary to create a cool, well-ventilated environment for it and reduce the amount of watering. After winter daphne gets through the summer, from late September to early October it can see some morning sunlight, 2 to 3 hours is good, and afterward the light time can be gradually extended. By the end of October it can have all-day light. Depending on different climate conditions in various places, winter daphne should be moved indoors in October or early November, and after being moved indoors it should be placed in a position with long light hours. In mid-November and early and late December, apply a thin fertilizer solution once each. Because the flower buds of winter daphne grow slowly, fertilizer should not be applied too frequently, too much or too concentrated, but it also cannot be omitted.
Jinbian ruixiang has poor sexual reproduction ability and is mostly propagated by vegetative organs, so seedlings are in short supply and are expensive. The vegetative propagation of Jinbian ruixiang can be carried out all year round, usually using methods such as cuttings, grafting and air layering. The following introduces water cutting and bud cutting propagation methods.
Disease control of winter daphne
In hot, dry summer weather, Daphne odora is susceptible to damage from red spider mites, aphids and scale insects; it can be sprayed with a 1000-1200x dilution of omethoate emulsifiable concentrate. The roots of the daphne plant taste sweet and easily harbor earthworms; when there are too many earthworms, they entangle the daphne roots and interfere with the plant's absorption of water and nutrients.
The plant can be dug out, the earthworms removed, and then replanted. The main disease is a mosaic virus disease; after infection, colored spots and deformities appear on the leaves, leading to poor flowering and stunted growth. If this viral infection is found, the plant should be dug out with its roots and destroyed.
Daphne has few pests and diseases. When the potting soil is too wet or undecomposed organic fertilizer is applied, root rot is very easily triggered. A fungicide such as a 600x dilution of 12% copper green emulsifiable concentrate, or an 800x dilution of 50% carbendazim, or a 1000x dilution of 70% thiophanate-methyl should be sprayed once every 10 to 15 days. The roots of daphne are fleshy and sweet-tasting, making them prone to damage by ants and earthworms, so control should be given attention.
Daphne has fairly strong disease resistance; occasionally aphids and red spider mites cause damage, which can be controlled by spraying a 1200x dilution of 80% dichlorvos or a 0.5 degree Beaume lime-sulfur mixture. The daphne root system tastes sweet and easily attracts earthworms, so when repotting, all earthworms in the potting soil can be picked out; ordinarily the flower pot should not be placed directly on bare earth, to prevent earthworms from crawling in through the bottom of the pot.
On infected plants, colored spots and deformities appear on the leaves, along with poor flowering and a rotten-heart condition. Control methods: before the hot, humid season arrives, spray Bordeaux mixture 2-3 times and place the plant in a cool spot. If rotten heart is found, promptly cut off the affected branches, leaves and flowers and burn them to prevent spread. The golden-edged daphne in particular is delicate and difficult to grow, fearing damp and low-pressure weather; cultivation should choose a high, well-ventilated spot and strengthen protection.
Rotten heart and rotten root symptoms
Rotten heart and rotten root symptoms appearing in daphne cultivation are mainly caused by improper management. Daphne adapts to warm climates but does not tolerate strong light, preferring semi-shade; its roots are fleshy, tolerant of drought and disliking wetness, and mosaic disease easily occurs in hot, humid seasons, which can be prevented by spraying Bordeaux mixture 2-3 times before the hot, humid season arrives. During the growing period, take care not to apply heavy fertilizer or water heavily, and keep the potting soil in a semi-moist state. In summer, avoid windstorms, rain and sun showers; if suddenly struck by wind and rain, the plant will immediately wilt and die. When such conditions are imminent, move it indoors in advance to shelter it; if it has already been struck by wind and rain, promptly use a knife to make a vertical cut 1-1.5 cm long on a thick, sturdy branch, from the bark layer to the xylem, so that excess water and gases in the plant can be released, favoring normal growth. If the plant's leaves are found drooping, completely lacking luster, and showing fine wrinkles, it indicates the roots have begun to rot. If it is caught early it can still be saved: dig out the seedling, wash the roots clean with water, cut off the rotten roots, then move it into a new pot, cover it with plastic film and place it in a cool spot. If after two weeks the leaves are standing upright, it has been saved.
Winter precautions
During the day, place the daphne in a sunny spot to receive light, and at night move it to a place not below 5°C. In addition, avoid potting soil that is too wet, avoid applying concentrated fertilizer or raw fertilizer, and avoid rain. Ordinarily observe the daphne's leaves: if the leaves stand upright and upward, it indicates that fertilizer and water are normal; if the leaves droop, it means the fertilizer used was too concentrated, too raw or too frequent, or that watering was too much or too frequent, and the cause should be identified and corresponding measures taken. Too much watering is easy to correct; if the fertilizer use was inappropriate, water thoroughly several times in succession to let the fertilizer leach out of the pot, then place it in a ventilated spot to let the potting soil dry quickly. If the roots have rotted, repot the plant, cut off the rotten roots, wash them clean with a fungicide, and plant it in sandy soil to let it grow new roots. Some of the upper branches and leaves should also be cut back accordingly. The potting soil should be mainly a neutral, slightly acidic sandy soil, mixed with 40% leaf mold, pine needle soil, peat soil or rice husk ash. No base fertilizer should be applied to the potting soil; liquid fertilizer should be applied as a timely top dressing. The best liquid fertilizer is a mixture of soybean water (grind or boil soybeans and ferment for at least 1 year; soybean fertilizer is mild in nature, while animal-based fertilizers are more irritant) and monopotassium phosphate solution (a highly effective, fast-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer; dilute the crystal granules with 1000 times water).
Pest and disease control
Daphne has few pests and diseases. When the potting soil is too wet or undecomposed organic fertilizer is applied, root rot is very easily triggered. A fungicide such as a 600x dilution of 12% copper green emulsifiable concentrate, or an 800x dilution of 50% carbendazim, or a 1000x dilution of 70% thiophanate-methyl should be sprayed once every 10 to 15 days. Daphne has fairly strong disease resistance; occasionally aphids and red spider mites cause damage, which can be controlled by spraying a 1200x dilution of 80% dichlorvos or a 0.5 degree Beaume lime-sulfur mixture. The daphne root system tastes sweet and easily attracts earthworms, so when repotting, all earthworms in the potting soil can be picked out; ordinarily the flower pot should not be placed directly on bare earth, to prevent earthworms from crawling in through the bottom of the pot.
Leaf-drop control
There are three main causes of leaf drop in daphne:
First, in the height of summer, not only is the weather hot, but there are also frequent heavy rains, rainstorms and thunderstorms. Thunderstorms in particular come suddenly and with great intensity, causing temperatures to drop sharply and very easily damaging the daphne's fine capillary roots.
Second, after the rain clears, water accumulates in the pot; with the plant in an environment of being baked above and steamed below, root respiration is impeded, easily causing root rot.
Third, excessive fertilization exceeds the plant's actual needs, causing toxicity and inhibiting the plant's growth. Or a heavy fertilizer that has not been fermented and decomposed is applied, and the root system suffers fertilizer damage.
When something goes wrong with a daphne it is hard to detect at first; while its leathery leaves are still bright and green, the plant may suddenly drop all its leaves. For a plant that has already lost its leaves, promptly remove it from the pot, rinse it clean with water, cut off all damaged and rotten roots, then replant it in a flower pot using medium-grained river sand, and place it in a well-ventilated, shaded spot. Frequently spray the plant and pot with a fine-nozzle watering can or sprayer, and keep the surrounding environment humid. After about a month, small, rather unspread leaves will sprout from the branches; at this point the plant can be moved to a spot with diffused light, where it will carry out weaker photosynthesis, producing various organic substances for the plant's own metabolism and prompting it to resume normal growth. Once the diseased plant has grown new roots, replant it in loose, well-drained soil with a pH of 5.5-6.5.
Daphne variety classification
White-flowered daphne, with pure white flowers; red-flowered daphne, with red flowers; purple-flowered daphne, with purple flowers; yellow-flowered daphne, with yellow flowers; golden-edged daphne, with golden-yellow leaf margins, red buds opening to white; hairy daphne, with white flowers and the outside of the perianth densely covered with grayish-yellow silky hairs; rose daphne, with petals white inside and light red outside; concave-leaved daphne, with recurved leaf margins and a blunt tip with a small notch.
Golden-edged daphne is the finest among daphnes; there has long been a saying that "among peonies, the national beauty and heavenly fragrance; among daphnes, the golden-edged is the best."
Daphne's distribution range
Daphne is native to China and Japan and is a traditional famous flower of China. It is distributed across the provinces and regions south of the Yangtze River basin, and is also found in Japan. Ganzhou City in Jiangxi Province has designated it as its "city flower."
Daphne's places of origin: China's Yangtze River basin, Japan. Within China it is mainly distributed in Sichuan, Hunan, Guangdong, Guangxi, Guizhou and other provinces.
Daphne's uses and purposes: ornamental value
It is most suitable for planting in forest clearings, along forest-edge paths, on hillside terraces and on the shady side of rockeries; scattered among rocks, its charm is further enhanced. Japanese gardens also greatly favor daphne, often pruning it into spherical shapes and planting it in front of pines and cypresses for accent.
Daphne has very high ornamental value; though its flowers are small, they cluster into masses, and the floral fragrance is fresh, pure and elegant. The daphne root is sweet and salty, non-toxic, and mainly treats acute throat wind; the stem bark fiber is a good raw material for papermaking.
Flower appreciation
The daphne tree has a graceful form, a rounded crown, supple branches and thick leaves, with spreading branches and abundant, fragrant flowers, symbolizing good fortune. It is best appreciated during its blooming period in early spring in February. If earlier blooming is desired, raise the temperature of the watering water one month before flowering, which can advance blooming by half a month; withholding water at peak bloom can extend the flowering period.
Daphne is a traditional famous flower of China; ancient poetry contains many verses praising it. The Song dynasty poet Wang Shipeng wrote in his poem "Daphne Flower": "Truly the auspicious one among flowers; only in this dynasty did its name first become known."
Economic value
Most species in the Thymelaeaceae family have well-developed bast fiber that is fine, soft and strong, making a good raw material for high-grade paper and rayon; Daphne, Wikstroemia and Edgeworthia are all famous ornamental garden trees and shrubs; many species can be used medicinally, such as the wood of Aquilaria, which can be used as incense, and its resin, which is a precious medicinal material, though generally all have slight toxicity; a few seeds can be pressed for oil, and flowers can yield aromatic oil.
Daphne's dietary therapy or medicinal value
The medical information and health dietary therapy information on Huahu.com is for reference only and cannot serve as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. For any health problem, consult professional medical staff, and for the treatment of any disease, follow a doctor's advice.
Ultimate flower-protecting mission: to love yourself, start from reality and strictly follow a doctor's advice. Toward illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope; face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and care for the flower field within your heart with your heart.
Medicinal value
According to the "Dictionary of Traditional Chinese Medicine," the root, stem, leaf and flower of daphne can all be used medicinally. It is sweet in nature and non-toxic, with the functions of clearing heat and relieving fever, reducing inflammation and swelling, and activating blood and removing stasis. In folk practice, fresh leaves are commonly pounded and used to treat sore, swollen throat, toothache, and blood boils and heat carbuncles, and flowers steeped in wine are used to rub on unnamed swellings and various skin diseases.
[Aliases]: Xuedonghua, Xuehuapi, Duixuekai, Xuedi Kaihua, Xuedonghua, Jinyaodai, Tieniupi, Shanmianpi, Nuangufeng, Hongzongguan
[Source]: Daphne odora Thunb., a plant of the genus Daphne in the family Thymelaeaceae, with its root, bark, leaves and flowers used medicinally. It can be collected year-round and used dried or fresh.
This product also contains a large amount of umbelliferone.
[Pharmacological properties]: When daphnin is given orally to rabbits at 30-50 mg/kg, it can reduce blood coagulability, with the strongest effect on days 2-3, lasting 1-3 days.
As time extends, the blood's tolerance to heparin decreases, and the activity of factors II, VII and X declines.
Thromboelastography also shows prolongation of the reaction time (τ) and clot formation (k).
This effect can be antagonized by vitamin K.
Daphnin can also promote the excretion of uric acid in the body.
The bark of the related plant Daphne mezereum, especially the fresh bark (called white daphne bark), contains daphne resin, a strong blistering agent; taken internally it can cause vomiting, bloody stool, etc., and absorbed poisoning can cause elevated body temperature, excitement, rapid pulse, difficulty breathing, and finally death from collapse.
[Nature, flavor and meridian entry]: Pungent, sweet, warm.
[Functions and indications]: Dispels wind and removes dampness, activates blood and relieves pain. Used for rheumatoid arthritis, sciatica, pharyngitis, toothache, early-stage breast cancer, and traumatic injuries.
[Usage and dosage]: 2-4 qian.
[Excerpted from]: "National Compendium of Chinese Herbal Medicines"
Pharmacological effects
When daphnin is given orally to rabbits at 30-50 mg/kg, it can reduce blood coagulability, with the strongest effect on days 2-3, lasting 1-3 days. As time extends, the blood's tolerance to heparin decreases, and the activity of factors II, VII and X declines. Thromboelastography also shows prolongation of the reaction time (τ) and clot formation (k). This effect can be antagonized by vitamin K.
Daphnin can also promote the excretion of uric acid in the body. The bark of the related plant Daphne mezereum, especially the fresh bark (called white daphne bark), contains daphne resin, a strong blistering agent; taken internally it can cause vomiting, bloody stool, etc., and absorbed poisoning can cause elevated body temperature, excitement, rapid pulse, difficulty breathing, and finally death from collapse.
Nature and flavor: Jiangxi "Herbal Manual": "Sweet and salty in taste."
Functions and indications
Treats sore, swollen throat, toothache, and rheumatic pain.
① "Yaoxing Kao": "Clears and benefits the head and eyes; for toothache it should be held in the mouth."
② "Gangmu Shiyi": "For sparse pox, treats early-stage breast rock."
Usage and dosage
Internal use: decocted in water, 1-2 qian. External use: pounded and applied, or decocted in water for gargling.
Cautions: Jiangxi "Herbal Manual": "This product has anesthetic properties; internal use should be cautious."
Selected formulas: ① For sore, swollen throat: fresh white daphne flowers and roots, 4 qian. Place in a bowl, pound into a paste, add boiling water, mash and strain the juice, and take.
② For toothache: white daphne flowers or root bark, 2 qian. Decoct in water, crack in two eggs (shelled and boiled whole), and when the eggs are hot, eat the eggs and drink the soup. Or pound fresh daphne flowers into a paste and hold it against the painful area.
③ For early-stage breast rock: fresh daphne flowers, pounded into a paste, add a little egg white and pound evenly, apply as a dressing, changing once a day. (Formulas ① and below are from "Jiangxi Folk Herbal Medicines")
④ For rheumatic pain: daphne flowers 2 qian, cassia twig 3 qian. Decoct in water and take. Also use daphne bark and leaves 4 to 8 liang, decoct in water and wash the affected area. (Jiangxi "Herbal Manual")
Clinical application
Collect fresh Xuedonghua, dry it and grind it into powder, and fill into capsules, 0.4 g each; separately use potassium iodide, also filled into capsules, 0.6 g each (filled at the time of taking). Administration: 2 Xuedonghua capsules and 3 potassium iodide capsules make 1 dose, taken in 3 portions. That is, on the first night take 1 Xuedonghua capsule, on the second night take 2 potassium iodide capsules, and on the third night take 1 Xuedonghua capsule and 1 potassium iodide capsule each. Two consecutive doses make one course of treatment. If one course is ineffective, stop the medication; for those with a long disease course, two courses may be taken. Of 93 cases treated, 21 were cured, 44 improved, and 28 were ineffective. Some patients experienced reactions such as dizziness, bitter taste in the mouth and stomach discomfort after taking the medication, which subsided on their own after about 2-4 hours.
Medicinal uses
According to the "Dictionary of Traditional Chinese Medicine," the root, stem, leaf and flower of daphne can all be used medicinally. It is sweet in nature and non-toxic, with the functions of clearing heat and relieving fever, reducing inflammation and swelling, and activating blood and removing stasis. In folk practice, fresh leaves are commonly pounded and used to treat sore, swollen throat, toothache, and blood boils and heat carbuncles, and flowers steeped in wine are used to rub on unnamed swellings and various skin diseases.
[Aliases] Xuedonghua, Xuehuapi, Duixuekai, Xuedi Kaihua, Xuedonghua, Jinyaodai, Tieniupi, Shanmianpi, Nuangufeng, Hongzongguan
[Source] Daphne odora Thunb., a plant of the genus Daphne in the family Thymelaeaceae, with its root, bark, leaves and flowers used medicinally. It can be collected year-round and used dried or fresh.
[Nature, flavor and meridian entry] Pungent, sweet, warm.
[Functions and indications] Dispels wind and removes dampness, activates blood and relieves pain. Used for rheumatoid arthritis, sciatica, pharyngitis, toothache, early-stage breast cancer, and traumatic injuries.
[Usage and dosage] 2-4 qian.
[Excerpted from] "National Compendium of Chinese Herbal Medicines"
Warning: Every part of this plant is highly toxic; accidental ingestion of an overdose can even endanger life. Therefore, when used medicinally, a doctor's advice must be strictly followed, and ingestion by animals and children must be strictly prevented.
Common medicinal formulas
Besides its ornamental value, daphne also has high medicinal value. The root, bark and flowers of daphne can all be used medicinally. Sweet and salty in nature and flavor, it can activate blood and dissolve stasis, relieve spasms, stop pain, dispel wind and remove dampness, and treat acute throat wind, numbness of the hands and feet, frostbite and burns.
Rheumatic pain: flowers 6 g, cassia twig 9 g, decocted in water and taken; also use bark and leaves 4 to 8 liang, decocted in water for external washing of the affected area.
Sciatica: bark 9 g decocted in water and taken. Twice a day, for several consecutive days.
Sore, swollen throat: flowers or roots 12 g, pounded into a paste, taken with boiling water.
Toothache: flowers or roots 6 g, eggs 2, decocted together, eat the eggs and drink the soup. For external use, several flowers pounded into a paste and held against the painful tooth.
Traumatic injuries: bark 50 g, soaked in children's urine for 24 hours, sun-dried, together with raw Aconitum kusnezoffii 3 g and pyrite 3 g, ground into a fine powder, taken twice a day, 3 g each time, taken with boiling water.
Restless fetus with bleeding, postpartum dizziness: stems and leaves 12 g, Saxifraga stolonifera 50 g, decocted in water and taken.
Stomachache: root 250 g, flowers 50 g, ground into powder, 3 g each time, taken with boiling water, once a day.
Venomous snake bite: the root is ground with baijiu into a thick juice and applied around the wound and to the swollen area. Apply again when the medicine dries.
Daphne's garden uses: garden uses
It is most suitable for planting in forest clearings, along forest-edge paths, on hillside terraces and on the shady side of rockeries; scattered among rocks, its charm is further enhanced. Japanese gardens also greatly favor daphne, often pruning it into spherical shapes and planting it in front of pines and cypresses for accent. Daphne has very high ornamental value; though its flowers are small, they cluster into masses, and the floral fragrance is fresh, pure and elegant. The daphne root is sweet and salty, non-toxic, and mainly treats acute throat wind; the stem bark fiber is a good raw material for papermaking.
Ornamental value
It is most suitable for planting in forest clearings, along forest-edge paths, on hillside terraces and on the shady side of rockeries; scattered among rocks, its charm is further enhanced. Japanese gardens also greatly favor daphne, often pruning it into spherical shapes and planting it in front of pines and cypresses for accent.
Daphne has very high ornamental value; though its flowers are small, they cluster into masses, and the floral fragrance is fresh, pure and elegant. The daphne root is sweet and salty, non-toxic, and mainly treats acute throat wind; the stem bark fiber is a good raw material for papermaking.
Bonsai creation
(1) Botanical knowledge
Belongs to the family Thymelaeaceae, genus Daphne. Evergreen shrub with smooth stems. Leaves alternate, long elliptical, mostly clustered at the branch tips, entire, dark green and glossy. Flowers from March to May, capitulum terminal, corolla yellow-white to light purple, lilac-like, with a strong fragrance. The daphne's branches spread gracefully, with supple branches and thick leaves, and an elegant, beautiful posture.
(2) Material selection and cultivation measures
Artificial propagation: Daphne is mostly propagated by cuttings and layering, and can also be propagated by water cuttings, division and sowing. Cuttings can be taken in all four seasons, but early March to late June is the best time for cuttings. For spring cuttings, select stout one-year-old branches as cuttings, about 5-10 cm long; the day before cutting the branches, a sharp knife can be used to make a ring cut at 0.1 cm from the branching point to promote healing and rooting. For those ring-cut at the branching point, cut them off at the right time and trim the cut smooth, and 2-4 leaves should be kept on the upper part of the cutting; for those not ring-cut at the branching point, if there are several divisions they can be cut separately. The insertion depth is about 1/3 or 1/2, and should not be too deep. For home cuttings, a cutting pot can be used; for large-scale cuttings, a seedbed must be used, and the seedbed soil should preferably be loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil. After insertion, a protective shed must be built to prevent sun and rain (bamboo strips can be arched into a 50-60 cm high frame and covered with plastic film). When the temperature is too high, a corner of the film shed must be opened for ventilation; pay attention to controlling moisture, and it should not be too wet. Generally, spring cuttings root in about 30 days, and can be divided and transplanted in about 2 months. If cuttings are taken in summer or autumn, the cuttings must be selected from half-lignified new branches of the current year, choosing stout branches about 8 cm long, with a heel on the branch. After insertion, keep the seedbed soil moist, and pay attention to keeping warm when the temperature drops; generally they can also root in about 40 days, and are transplanted for cultivation after the weather warms the following spring.
For layering propagation, the air layering method can usually be used. Air layering is best done in May-June. First select a suitable branch and determine the layering site; use the notching method to make one or two horizontal cuts or a ring of bark removal at the layered site, with the cut reaching the xylem, then wrap the cut site with a plastic bag or a half-split bamboo tube, tie the lower end tightly, apply growth hormone to the wound, then fill in prepared potting soil and tie the upper end of the bag tightly. Keep the soil in the bag moist and fix the layered branch well to prevent breakage. Generally roots form in about 40-50 days, and after about 2 months it can be cut from the mother branch and potted for cultivation. Propagating daphne by the water cutting method is simple and easy, and the survival rate is also fairly high.
(3) Potting process
Pot selection: For daphne, a slightly deep round or square pot is suitable, and an oval or rectangular pot can also be used. As for the material, a purple clay pottery pot is best. The pot color can be chosen as sunflower yellow or light gray, to set off the green leaves and white flowers and produce a contrasting effect.
Soil: Daphne likes to grow in fertile, loose, well-drained sandy loam, requiring slightly acidic soil with a pH between 6 and 6.5. For potting, leaf mold or sun-dried, weathered garden soil mixed with an appropriate amount of rice husk ash or sandy soil is suitable.
Planting: Potting is best done in April in spring. At this time the climate is mild and humid, with a small day-night temperature difference, which is favorable for the daphne to establish in the pot and grow. Autumn planting is also acceptable; when transplanting, more of the original soil must be kept with the roots, and the branches should be properly pruned.
(4) Shaping techniques
Processing: Daphne bonsai is suitable for wire training, combined with pruning for shaping. However, care must be taken to remove the wire in time to avoid wire bite, which affects appearance and growth. Processing and shaping are best done during the dormant period, and can also be done after flowering.
Tree form: The tree form of daphne bonsai should be made into a natural large-tree shape, with branches that are upright, elegant and spreading, and with attention to appropriate density so as to favor elegant branches and abundant flowers, rich color and fragrance, and enhanced ornamental effect.
Daphne's national flower and city flower
Daphne is the city flower of Ganzhou City in Jiangxi Province.
Daphne's cultural background: poetry and prose
The Song dynasty "Qingyi Lu" records: "The daphne flower of Mount Lu was first encountered by a monk who, napping on a rock by day, smelled an intensely strong floral fragrance in his dream; when he woke and sought it out, he named it 'Shuixiang' (Sleeping Fragrance). People everywhere marveled at it, calling it an auspicious sign among flowers, and so it was named 'Ruixiang' (Auspicious Fragrance)."
Other names: Shexiang ("Qunfangpu"), Penglai Hua ("Huajing"), Xuehua, Duoxiang Hua ("Guangdong Xinyu"), Yemeng Hua, Shanmeng Hua ("Guizhou Caoyao"), Xuedi Kaihua, Hongzongguan, Xuedonghua (Jiangxi "Herbal Manual").
Legend
It is said that Li Shizhen, in order to complete the great pharmacopoeia "Compendium of Materia Medica," came to Mount Lu to gather medicinal herbs and stayed at Donglin Temple. One day, a young monk with a red, swollen right cheek, enduring severe toothache, was murmuring sutras; the old monk took a dried medicinal herb and had him hold it in his mouth, and at once the swelling subsided and the pain stopped. Astonished, Li Shizhen hurried to ask the old monk for guidance. It turned out that this miraculous herb was the flower of an evergreen small shrub growing in Jinxiu Valley. To find this flower, Li Shizhen trekked in Jinxiu Valley for three days and three nights. On the third night, utterly exhausted, Li Shizhen closed his eyes for a brief rest, and in a hazy state a strong fragrance rushed to his nose.
Two brightly dancing butterflies circled him and called softly: "Doctor Li, our eldest sister requests your presence." Li Shizhen looked up, and the butterflies suddenly transformed into two little girls in butterfly-patterned skirts, who lifted him up and flew into the air. On a perilous cliff among the clouds, an elegant and graceful immortal maiden repeatedly beckoned to him. Li Shizhen was greatly amazed and was about to ask the immortal maiden where this flower could be found. The immortal maiden glanced back with a smile, lightly shook her green sleeves, and transformed into a dazzlingly bright flower. Overjoyed, Li Shizhen stepped forward quickly to take the flower, but unexpectedly slipped and fell headlong into a bottomless ravine. Drenched in cold sweat, Li Shizhen cried out and woke from the dream, only to see that among the cracks of the cliff beside him, a clump of blooming flowers was bathed in moonlight, flowing with color and enchanting.
Li Shizhen then named it "Shuixiang" (Sleeping Fragrance). Later the name Shuixiang spread far and wide, and people competed to introduce and cultivate it, regarding it as an auspicious sign, and so it was renamed "Ruixiang" (Auspicious Fragrance). Li Shizhen believed that daphne not only clears and benefits the head and eyes and relieves fire pain, but can also treat acute throat wind, sore swollen throat, toothache and rheumatic pain.
Daphne's flower language
Daphne's flower language: auspiciousness, good fortune.
Daphne is a traditional famous flower of China and also a famous flower of the world. Daphne is renowned worldwide for its four excellences of "color, fragrance, posture and charm," leaving behind the verse "among peonies, the national beauty and heavenly fragrance; among daphnes, the golden-edged is the best."
Daphne pictures
Clerodendrum trichotomum Thunb. Harlequin glorybower guide: how to grow harlequin glorybower / how to propagate harlequin glorybower
Harlequin glorybower profileClerodendrum trichotomum Thunb.
How to grow harlequin glorybower and precautions; introduction to harlequin glorybower
Harlequin glorybower, also known as Clerodendron trichotomum, stinking glorybower, paohuatong, bajiao wutong, zhuigufeng, houtinghua, xiangqiu, paohuotong, haitong, choutong, choufurong, etc., has large inflorescences and beautiful flowers and fruits; a single tree bears both flowers and fruits at the same time, with bright white, red and blue colors, a long flowering and fruiting period, and luxuriant growth. It is a fine ornamental flowering tree, suitable for both mass planting and specimen planting, and is an excellent material for landscaping. Its roots, stems, leaves and flowers are used medicinally, with effects of dispelling wind-dampness, clearing heat and promoting urination, relieving pain, and calming the liver and lowering blood pressure.
Harlequin glorybower prefers light, tolerates slight shade, likes moist and fertile loam, is relatively drought-tolerant, highly adaptable, has a certain degree of cold tolerance, dislikes low-lying waterlogged areas, and is fairly salt-alkali tolerant. It has very few pests and diseases and is easy to manage. It is a deciduous shrub or small tree, up to 8 m tall. Young branches, petioles and inflorescence axes are sparsely covered with yellowish-brown soft hairs. Leaves are simple, opposite. Ovate to elliptic, entire or with slightly wavy teeth, 5-16 cm long. Corymbose cymes terminal or axillary, 8-18 cm long, calyx purplish-red, 5-lobed almost to the base; corolla white or tinged with pink, tube slender, apex 5-lobed, filaments and anthers exserted from the corolla. The drupe is nearly spherical, enclosed in the persistent calyx, blue-purple when ripe. The flower shape is unusual and beautiful, the flowering period is long, and the fruit colors are vivid. It is an excellent autumn species for viewing flowers and fruits, suitable for planting in courtyards, on hillsides, by water, on embankments, on cliffs, in rock crevices and under forest. It occurs in the provinces and regions of North China, East China, Central South China and Southwest China. It is also distributed on the Korean Peninsula, in Japan and in the Philippines.
Harlequin glorybower has large inflorescences and beautiful flowers and fruits; a single tree bears both flowers and fruits at the same time, with bright white, red and blue colors, a long flowering and fruiting period, and luxuriant growth. It is a fine ornamental flowering tree, suitable for both mass planting and specimen planting, and is an excellent material for landscaping.
Morphological characteristics of harlequin glorybower
Harlequin glorybower is native to North China, East China, Central South China, Southwest China and Northeast China, and is also distributed abroad in Korea, Japan, the Philippines and other countries. In its native range it mostly grows on hillsides, roadsides and stream banks below 2400 m. Its flower shape is unusual and beautiful, its flowering period is long, and its fruit colors are vivid; it is an excellent autumn species for viewing flowers and fruits.
Harlequin glorybower is a shrub or small tree, 1.5-10 m tall; young branches, petioles and inflorescence axes are more or less covered with yellowish-brown soft hairs or nearly hairless; old branches grayish-white, with lenticels, pith white, with pale yellow plate-like transverse septa.
Leaf blades papery, ovate, ovate-elliptic or triangular-ovate, 5-16 cm long, 2-13 cm wide, apex acuminate, base broadly cuneate to truncate, occasionally cordate, upper surface dark green, lower surface pale green, both surfaces white short-pilose when young, upper surface smooth and hairless when old, lower surface still short-pilose or hairless, or more densely hairy along the veins, lateral veins 3-5 pairs, margin entire or sometimes wavy-toothed; petiole 2-8 cm long.
Corymbose cymes terminal or axillary, usually dichotomously branched, loose, the last branches bearing 3 flowers, inflorescence 8-18 cm long, peduncle 3-6 cm long, more or less covered with yellowish-brown soft hairs or hairless; bracts leaf-like, elliptic, early deciduous; calyx greenish-white in bud, later purplish-red, connate at the base, slightly swollen in the middle, with 5 ridges, apex 5-parted, lobes triangular-lanceolate or ovate, apex acute; flowers fragrant, corolla white or tinged with pink, corolla tube slender, about 2 cm long, apex 5-lobed, lobes oblong-elliptic, 5-10 mm long, 3-5 mm wide; stamens 4, filaments and style exserted from the corolla; style shorter than the stamens, stigma 2-lobed.
Harlequin glorybower is a deciduous shrub or small tree, up to 5-8 m tall. Young branches, petioles and inflorescence axes are more or less covered with yellowish-brown short soft hairs, and the pith of the branches has pale yellow plate-like transverse septa.
Leaves simple, opposite, blades broadly ovate to triangular-ovate, 5-16 cm long, 3-13 cm wide, apex acuminate, base mostly truncate, margin entire or wavy-toothed, both surfaces sparsely short-pilose or nearly hairless; petiole 2-8 cm. Flowers bisexual, slightly fragrant, in corymbose cymes terminal or axillary, 8-18 cm long. In bud the calyx is greenish-white, later turning purplish-red, connate at the base, slightly swollen in the middle, with 5 ridges, apex 5-parted, lobes triangular-lanceolate or ovate, acute, enlarging after flowering and persistent. Corolla slender and tubular, about 1.2-2 cm long, apex 5-lobed, white or pink; stamens 4, long and curved, exserted from the corolla. Ovary superior, incompletely 4-locular, with 1 ovule per locule. Style slightly shorter than the stamens, stigma 2-lobed. Drupe nearly spherical, blue-purple when mature, enclosed in the enlarged persistent calyx.
The entire inflorescence can simultaneously display the rich colors of red calyx, white corolla and blue-purple fruit. Flowering period June-September, fruit ripening period September-November.
Drupe nearly spherical, 6-8 mm in diameter, enclosed in the enlarged persistent calyx, exocarp blue-purple when mature.
Flowering and fruiting period June-November.
Ecological habits of harlequin glorybower
Harlequin glorybower likes sunlight, tolerates slight shade and drought, has a certain degree of cold tolerance, and can overwinter safely in central Liaoning and areas to the south. It is not demanding about soil, likes moist soil, can tolerate poor soil, but does not tolerate waterlogging, and can grow normally in sandy soil and light clay. It has good adaptability and is not demanding about soil, but grows best in fertile, well-aerated sandy loam; it has a certain degree of salt-alkali tolerance and strong tillering ability.
Few pests and diseases, easy to manage. However, it grows most vigorously, with large inflorescences and abundant flowers, in a warm and humid climate on sandy loam with good fertilizer and water conditions.
Harlequin glorybower likes sunlight, is relatively cold-tolerant and drought-tolerant, also likes moist soil, can tolerate poor soil, but does not tolerate waterlogging. It has strong adaptability and is easy to cultivate and manage. After planting and establishment, apart from applying base fertilizer in the planting hole in the first year, generally no further fertilization is necessary from the second year on. It has few pests and diseases. When harlequin glorybower blooms, red and white alternate, and the flowers are as dense as brocade; especially around the "October 1st" National Day period, the bright blue-purple spherical fruits and the red and white flowers persist together at the tips of the branches, gorgeous and lovely. It is an excellent flowering and fruit-viewing tree for decorating gardens and courtyards during the "October 1st" period. It is suitable for mass planting in courtyards, on hillsides, roadsides and by streams.
Cultivation techniques of harlequin glorybower - cultivation conditions
Planting time should be March-April in spring. Before planting, apply sufficient decomposed organic fertilizer, then cover with soil, and water thoroughly 3 times promptly after planting. In order to maintain vigorous growth of harlequin glorybower, plant it in an environment with deep soil and good light conditions to promote good growth. The planting soil must be amended with organic fertilizer, and irrigation should be maintained in the early growth stage to ensure survival. Each year, to promote strong sprouting and expand the clump, additional topdressing must be applied to promote vigorous growth.
Water and fertilizer management
Harlequin glorybower likes fertilizer. When planting, sufficient base fertilizer should be applied; decomposed and fermented cow or horse manure or sesame paste residue is preferable, and the base fertilizer should be thoroughly mixed with the planting soil. In subsequent management, at the end of autumn, apply some dried chicken manure, cow or horse manure or sesame paste residue together with the winter watering. In early summer of the following year, an appropriate amount of urea may be topdressed once, and before flowering some phosphorus and potassium fertilizer may be applied appropriately. It should be noted that when fertilizing harlequin glorybower, two issues must be attended to: first, attention must be paid to nutritional balance, and nitrogen fertilizer should not be applied exclusively, to prevent excessive vegetative growth or pests and diseases; second, organic fertilizer and chemical fertilizer should be applied alternately or mixed, to prevent soil compaction.
For trees after planting, from sprouting to early flowering each year, they can be irrigated 2-3 times; if there is summer drought, irrigate 2-3 times; in autumn and winter, irrigate once with winter protection water.
In addition to applying sufficient base fertilizer at planting in the first year, in early spring each year an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or decomposed compost can be applied in trenches at the root zone of the trees, at 35 kg/sq m, then covered with soil and watered, to promote more flowering. However, do not fertilize in autumn, so as to increase the plant's cold resistance and favor overwintering.
Although harlequin glorybower is drought-tolerant, it still prefers moist environments. Especially for newly planted saplings and seedlings, strengthening watering is very necessary. For newly planted harlequin glorybower, watering in the first three years is crucial and directly related to the survival rate and post-planting growth. Generally speaking, in addition to watering well the first three times, newly planted saplings should also be given one or two thorough waterings in April, May and June of that year depending on rainfall and soil moisture. Watering once each in September and October is also acceptable; these two waterings can be appropriately smaller in amount, as excessive water easily causes excessive vegetative growth and is not conducive to safe overwintering. But not watering at all is also not acceptable, because although it is autumn at this time, the temperature is still high, the plant's transpiration is still large, and if the weather remains dry and no water is given, the leaves will wilt. Therefore, in September and October, water harlequin glorybower just enough that the leaves do not wilt; it is not necessary to water thoroughly. July and August are the months of abundant rainfall; if it is not excessively dry, water less or not at all, and after heavy rain, drain standing water promptly to prevent root rot from excessive water. At the end of November or the beginning of December, water thoroughly with anti-freezing water; in early March of the following year, water promptly with thawing water; this watering should be more rather than less. Subsequent watering can follow the method of the first year. In the third year, manage according to the method of the second year. From the fourth year on, it is only necessary to water well with anti-freezing water and thawing water each year; in other seasons, if it is not excessively dry, it can rely on natural rainfall for growth. Seedlings can be watered somewhat more frequently than newly planted saplings; sufficient water can make their branches and leaves luxuriant and accelerate growth.
Shaping and pruning
When the main trunk of a young tree grows to 1.5-2 m, it can be cut back as needed, or it can be headed back within 30 cm of the trunk to train a multi-stemmed shrub. At the same time, keep 4-5 strong branches as main branches, arranged in staggered tiers. Head back the tips of the main branches, leaving a lower bud or a lateral bud below the cut. If the angle between the main branch and the trunk is small, leave a lower bud; otherwise leave a lateral bud. Overcrowded lateral branches can be thinned early. When the main branches have extended to a certain extent and are widely spaced from one another, strong branches should be retained as lateral branches so that both main and lateral branches can receive full sunlight. Gradually thin out the nurse branches previously left on the central leader. At any time, remove water sprouts, root suckers, etc.
Each year after leaf fall in autumn or before sprouting in early spring, prune and shape moderately, thinning out dead branches, overly dense branches and water sprouts, so that the branches are evenly distributed, thereby promoting vigorous growth and abundant flowering in the coming year. The branches have strong sprouting ability; in the early growth stage, cut back the main trunk or remove the terminal bud to promote the growth of lateral branches. During vigorous growth, before flower buds form, maintain a well-rounded plant shape through pruning. Old trees of many years should be heavily pruned to favor renewal and rejuvenation.
Pruning methods
When the central leader of a young tree reaches a certain height, head it back as needed, and select three or four strong branches as main branches to train; the selected branches should be evenly distributed, should not grow along the same line, and should form a certain opening angle with the trunk; all other branches are removed. Head back the retained main branches, leaving an outer bud below the cut. When the new shoots grow to about 50 cm, they should be headed back, and strong branches selected again as lateral branches. Once the basic tree form is formed, normal management can proceed: promptly thin out overly dense branches, drooping branches, crossing branches, diseased and pest-infested branches and water sprouts, and also appropriately head back some overly long branches.
Propagation methods of harlequin glorybower
Harlequin glorybower has relatively few germplasm resources. The commonly used propagation methods include sowing, cuttings, root cuttings, division, etc. To accelerate the multiplication rate of seedlings, hardwood cuttings and softwood cuttings are preferable for propagation.
Softwood cuttings
Establish a cutting arch shed. Build a dedicated cutting arch shed or use existing greenhouses or glasshouses for production, and erect a shade net with 75% shading rate above the shed. Use sandy loam as the cutting bed substrate; if the soil is heavy, spread river sand to a thickness of 10 cm. Evenly spray the substrate with 0.3% potassium permanganate for sterilization and disinfection, until the bed surface is moist.
Cutting preparation and treatment. Select current-year semi-lignified branches and cut them into cuttings about 10 cm long, with the upper cut 0.3 cm above a leaf bud, the lower cut made at an angle, retaining 2 leaves at the top, with the leaves trimmed smaller and the cuts smooth. Sterilize the cuttings in 800-fold 50% carbendazim solution for 5 min, then soak in 100 mg/kg ABT rooting powder No. 6 for 10 min before use.
Cutting. Cutting density 10 cm x 10 cm. After treatment, insert the cuttings immediately, loosening the surface 6 cm or so of substrate, inserting the cuttings into the substrate to a depth of about 3 cm, and finally pressing the substrate lightly with thumb and forefinger so that the cuttings are in close contact with the substrate.
Post-cutting management. After cutting, strengthen management of the cutting shed, using measures such as ventilation inside the shed, misting and shading, so that the bed temperature inside the shed is kept below 30°C and the relative air humidity is around 90%. During management, sterilization and foliar topdressing should be carried out several times. At the end of cutting, spray once with 800-fold 50% carbendazim solution for disinfection before ending the evening misting, and thereafter once every 5 d. After entering the rooting stage, spray foliar fertilizer, alternating 0.2% monopotassium phosphate with 0.2% urea + 0.2% monopotassium phosphate, once every 3 d. After about 30-40 d, when the cuttings' roots are more than 5 cm long, misting needs to be reduced, air humidity lowered for hardening off for 4-5 d, and the plastic film and shading materials gradually removed, entering routine field management.
Hardwood cuttings
Cutting equipment. After plowing and leveling the soil, build a small arch shed 2.2 m wide and 1.2 m high, with length determined as needed, and erect a shade net with 70% shading rate over the small arch shed. Use sandy loam or river sand as substrate to establish the cutting bed, and disinfect the substrate with a spray gun using 0.3% potassium permanganate solution, evenly and carefully without missing any area.
Collection of cuttings. In November, after the leaves fall in autumn, collect 1-2 year old branches that are vigorous and free of pests and diseases. Choose a high, dry, shaded spot to dig a pit and store the branches, with one layer of branches and one layer of soil in the pit, the branch layer 20-30 cm thick and the soil layer 15 cm thick; the covering soil on top should be no less than the local frozen soil depth; alternatively, they can be collected and used immediately before buds sprout in spring.
Cutting preparation. Cut the cuttings in units of 2-3 pairs of nodes, about 10 cm long and not less than 1 cm in diameter; the upper cut of the cutting is flat, with the first lateral bud at the upper end kept intact, 1-1.5 cm from the upper cut; the lower cut is made at an angle, with the lower end close to a bud, the cuts smooth and without tearing.
Cutting treatment. After cutting, disinfect the cuttings in 800-fold 50% carbendazim solution for 5 min, then remove and soak in 100 mg/kg ABT rooting powder, indolebutyric acid, indoleacetic acid, etc. for 24 h to promote rooting.
Cutting and management. Cutting is generally carried out from late March to early April, with plant and row spacing of 10 cm x 10 cm. Insert the cuttings at an angle, to a depth of about 3 cm; after insertion, firm the substrate around the cuttings so that they are in close contact with the substrate. Immediately after cutting, spray once thoroughly, and keep moist and sterilized. Inside the shed, mist according to weather conditions to cool and maintain humidity, keeping the temperature at 15-30°C and relative humidity at 80%-100%, watering once every 5 d to keep the substrate moist. After about 40 d the seedlings become established; strengthen field management such as bud removal, intercultivation and watering.
Propagation methods of harlequin glorybower
Harlequin glorybower can be propagated by sowing, cuttings, division and other methods; in production, sowing and division are mostly used. Sowing propagation can yield a large number of seedlings at one time; seeds can be sown immediately after collection in autumn, or stored in stratified sand and sown the following spring. Division propagation involves digging out the root suckers of the plant together with their roots and planting them in planting holes supplied with base fertilizer; keeping the soil moist, they will become established. For cutting propagation, current-year semi-lignified branches can be collected in June-July as cuttings, 12 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves; after dipping in ABT rooting agent, insert them into a sterilized substrate, keep the substrate moist, and mist frequently; cover with a shed for overwintering in winter, and they can be divided and planted the following spring.
Seedlings grown from seed can flower only after 3-5 years, whereas divided plants can flower the same year. In order to maintain vigorous growth of harlequin glorybower, plant it in an environment with deep soil and good light conditions; the planting soil must be amended with organic fertilizer, and irrigation should be maintained in the early growth stage to ensure survival. Each year, to promote strong sprouting and expand the clump, additional topdressing must be applied to promote vigorous growth. The branches have strong sprouting ability; in the early growth stage, cut back the main trunk or remove the terminal bud to promote the growth of lateral branches. During vigorous growth, before flower buds form, maintain a well-rounded plant shape through pruning. Do not fertilize in autumn, so as to increase the plant's cold resistance and favor overwintering.
Sowing propagation
In autumn, harvest ripe berries, remove the peel, flesh, stalks and shriveled seeds and other debris, dry in the shade, then disinfect with 700-800 fold 50% carbendazim solution, and sow in autumn. Alternatively, store them in sand and keep them at 0°C-5°C, and sow in the open field from late March to mid-April of the following year. The soil texture should preferably be sandy loam; level and harrow it fine, and sow in drills with a row spacing of 40 cm and a furrow depth of 2.5-3 cm. Seedlings emerge about 15 d after sowing; during the seedling growth period, loosen the soil and weed promptly, and topdress once in mid-June and once in mid-July, applying 10 g-15 g of urea per sq m each time, and water promptly after application. In the rainy season, strictly prevent standing water in the field. Seedlings grown from seed can flower only after 3-5 years.
Cutting propagation
In June-July, choose a 1:1 mixture of river sand and soil as the cutting substrate for the seedbed, and select 1-year-old lignified branches that are vigorous, free of pests and diseases, with plump axillary buds, 12-15 cm long; remove the leaves on the lower 2/3 of the cutting. The lower cut of the cutting is made 0.5-1.0 cm below a leaf or axillary bud, and the upper cut 0.5-1.0 cm above a leaf or axillary bud; the cuts are flat, and the terminal bud may also be retained. The cuts should be smooth, without splitting or torn bark.
To promote rooting and improve the propagation effect of the cuttings, the cuttings must be given certain treatment before cutting. If conditions permit, using ABT No. 2 rooting powder when cutting can greatly increase the rooting rate. The method is to dissolve 1 g of rooting powder in 500 ml of 95% alcohol, then add 500 ml of distilled water (or cooled boiled water) to make 1000 ml of a 1000 ppm stock solution, then add water to dilute to the required 50 ppm concentration for use. Before cutting, dip the base of the branches for 2-4 hours, then insert the treated cuttings immediately into the seedbed, with plant and row spacing of 10 x 10 cm and a depth of 8-10 cm; after insertion, firm the soil so that the substrate is in close contact with the cuttings, then spray thoroughly.
Division propagation
The root system of harlequin glorybower readily produces suckers, forming new plants from adventitious roots around mature trees; therefore, division propagation is relatively convenient. After autumn or before the plants start growing in early spring, dig out the root-sucker seedlings around mature trees from the root crown, so that each divided plant has a good root system, prune the branches appropriately, and plant them in prepared tree holes; they will then become established. Divided plants can flower the same year.
Pest and disease control of harlequin glorybower
The copper-green chafer (Anomala corpulenta) is the most common pest of harlequin glorybower, with occasional damage from aphids and scale insects. If copper-green chafers occur, adults can be trapped and killed with black light lamps, and larvae can be infected and killed with Metarhizium anisopliae; when adult numbers are large, 3% high-permeability fenoxycarb emulsifiable concentrate at 2000-fold can also be sprayed.
The common disease of harlequin glorybower is sooty mold, whose pathogen belongs to the family Meliolaceae in the subphylum Ascomycotina. Its asexual generation is a member of the Fungi Imperfecti. It overwinters on the host as mycelium, conidia and ascocarps. It spreads via air currents and insects. Conidia and ascospores germinate and grow on the excreta and secretions of piercing-sucking pests such as aphids and infect the host, producing small black sooty spots; the conidia can cause repeated infection, and the sooty layer on the leaves gradually expands and thickens, often covering the entire leaf, so that the leaves cannot photosynthesize, affecting ornamental value and growth.
If sooty mold occurs, first control piercing-sucking pests with piercing mouthparts such as aphids and scale insects; in routine maintenance, strengthen ventilation and light penetration, and promptly thin out overly dense branches.
Distribution range of harlequin glorybower - domestic
Harlequin glorybower is native to East China, Central China and Northeast China.
Abroad
Korea, Japan, the Philippines.
Harlequin glorybower is native to East China, Central China and Northeast China, and mostly grows on hillsides, roadsides, stream banks and by villages below 2400 m elevation. It has been introduced in Beijing, Tianjin, Hebei, Shaanxi, North China and Dingzhou.
The provinces and regions of North China, East China, Central South China and Southwest China. It is also distributed on the Korean Peninsula, in Japan and in the Philippines.
Uses of harlequin glorybower - ornamental value
Harlequin glorybower has a long flowering period, and after flowering it has bright red persistent sepals, which together with the blue fruits are very pleasing to the eye. It is a beautiful species for viewing flowers and fruits, often used in garden cultivation.
Medicinal or dietary therapeutic value of harlequin glorybower
The medical information and health dietary therapy information on Hugarden is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health problem should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and the treatment of any disease should follow doctor's orders.
Ultimate flower-protecting mission: love yourself, start from reality, and strictly follow doctor's orders. Toward illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope; face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and care for the flower field within your heart with your heart.
Medicinal value
Treats rheumatic arthralgia, hemiplegia, hypertension, migraine; malaria, dysentery, hemorrhoids, carbuncles, sores and scabies.
Usage and dosage
Internal use: decocted in water, 3-5 qian (1-2 liang if fresh); soaked in wine or made into pills or powders. External use: decocted in water for washing, ground into powder and mixed for application, or pounded and applied.
Medication contraindications
After being decocted at high heat, the blood pressure-lowering effect of harlequin glorybower is weakened.
Pharmacological effects
1. Blood pressure-lowering effect: A decoction of stems and leaves given to dogs with chronic renal hypertension by gavage at 10 g/kg daily began to show a significant blood pressure-lowering effect in the second week of administration, and continued administration lowered blood pressure further; the effect is slow and long-lasting. When its extract was given intravenously to anesthetized dogs and rats, it showed a biphasic blood pressure-lowering effect: the first lowering effect was strong and short, occurring immediately after administration and generally lasting no more than 45 minutes; the second lowering effect was mild and long-lasting, mostly appearing 30-50 minutes after administration. The second lowering effect appears with intramuscular or oral administration. Harlequin glorybower before flowering has a stronger blood pressure-lowering effect than after flowering, and the effect also weakens after long-term storage. Clinically, harlequin glorybower leaves are ground into powder and taken at 10-16 g daily in 3-4 divided doses. In most cases significant efficacy is shown within 5 weeks of medication; the longer the course of treatment, the better the efficacy, and at the same time symptoms such as headache and dizziness improve; after stopping the medication, blood pressure rises again within 1-2 weeks. If a small maintenance dose (2-4 g daily) is used, it may not rise again. Also, when harlequin glorybower is combined with earthworm, the efficacy is higher than that of harlequin glorybower alone.
2. Sedative effect: Harlequin glorybower has a sedative effect and can prolong the anesthesia time of sodium pentobarbital, but has no hypnotic effect itself. Combined with earthworm, it has a synergistic effect in resisting convulsions caused by caffeine.
3. Analgesic effect: The electric stimulation rat tail method proved that harlequin glorybower has an analgesic effect.
4. Anti-inflammatory effect: When harlequin glorybower, Bidens bipinnata and Siegesbeckia orientalis were each used alone, none inhibited formaldehyde-induced or egg-white-induced paw swelling in rats. However, when harlequin glorybower was combined with Bidens bipinnata (called "Guanjieling") or with Siegesbeckia orientalis (i.e. "Xitong Wan"), it had a clear anti-inflammatory effect. Ineffective alone but effective when the two drugs are combined, it appears this is not because a more effective new substance is formed upon combination, but because of mutual enhancement. Clinically, harlequin glorybower combined with Siegesbeckia orientalis is called Xitong Wan, or combined with Bidens bipinnata it is called Zhentong Wan; both have good efficacy for rheumatoid arthritis.
5. Toxicity: A decoction of harlequin glorybower given to dogs by gavage at 10 g/kg for 3 weeks had no effect on the liver, blood or electrocardiogram, but at a dose of 20 g/kg by gavage it caused vomiting. The LD50 of the decoction given intraperitoneally to mice is 20.6 g/kg.
Clinical applications
1. Treatment of hypertension: Harlequin glorybower has a mild and long-lasting blood pressure-lowering effect, and also has effects of relieving hypertension symptoms, restoring cardiac function, and countering arteriolar spasm. According to treatment results from dozens to hundreds of cases, the total effective rate of blood pressure lowering ranges from 56.69-81.4%. When combined with earthworm, the efficacy is somewhat improved, with an effective rate of over 81%. Generally, significant blood pressure lowering appears relatively late after medication, with most cases beginning to show obvious blood pressure decline in the fourth or fifth week. After blood pressure falls, if medication is stopped, blood pressure can rise rapidly within 1-2 weeks; if a smaller maintenance dose is given, blood pressure can often be maintained at the lowered level. Symptoms such as palpitations, shortness of breath, headache, dizziness, insomnia and nocturia are mostly significantly improved or disappear, and individual cases with angina pectoris also had it disappear after medication. Some cases were confirmed by examination: in all those with significant blood pressure lowering, cardiac enlargement almost completely recovered and extrasystoles disappeared, but heart rate and heart sounds showed no obvious changes, and ischemic phenomena caused by coronary arteriosclerosis in the electrocardiogram could also recover; in most cases, spasm of the retinal arterioles could be relieved. In practice it has also been observed that efficacy has a certain relationship with age and disease stage. Those over 40 years old have a better blood pressure-lowering effect. It is effective for early hypertension and for advanced hypertension without serious complications, but has poor efficacy for accelerated hypertension and advanced hypertension with complications; it is also effective in those with arteriosclerosis. However, some reports say that for stage III and stage III hypertension or those with obvious arteriosclerosis, the efficacy is not significant. Some people experience discomfort, nausea, vomiting, constipation or loose stools, and some cases have a feeling of weakness and fatigue. Generally all can tolerate it, and it disappears on its own after continuing medication or reducing the dose as appropriate. Usage: harlequin glorybower tablets, 10-16 g daily, taken in 3-4 divided doses. Using the leaf extract di-harlequin glorybower methyl ketone orally, start at 60-90 mg daily, and after blood pressure is lowered reduce to 40-60 mg daily as a maintenance dose; take in 3 divided doses.
2. Treatment of chronic bronchitis: Take fresh stems and leaves of harlequin glorybower, 2 liang, made into a decoction as a one-day dose, taken in 3 divided doses. 10 days is one course of treatment. After three courses in July-August for 88 patients, the total effective rate reached 81.8%, of which markedly effective or above was 46.6%. Preliminary observations show a certain efficacy in relieving cough, resolving phlegm and relieving asthma; however, the anti-inflammatory effect is relatively poor, some efficacy is not yet consolidated, and the time to marked effect is relatively slow.
3. Treatment of malaria: Take bajiao wutong tablets orally (each tablet weighs 0.25 g); adults take 14 tablets once every 6 hours for a total of 8 times, then 5 tablets 3 times a day for 5 consecutive days. 7 days is one course of treatment, with a total dose of about 200 tablets. Pediatric doses are reduced accordingly. In 226 patients with various types of malaria (96 cases of quartan malaria, 88 cases of tertian malaria, 24 cases of falciparum malaria, 18 cases of mixed infection), after medication all symptomatic attacks were controlled within 4 days, and no recurrence was seen after 3 months of observation. Blood test results: 186 cases (82.3%) had the parasite disappear 2 days after medication; the negative conversion rates on days 4 and 7 were 97.3% and 98.6% respectively. Drug reactions were relatively few; a small number experienced arrhythmia, nausea and vomiting; individual cases developed generalized and lower limb edema and urticaria, but mostly not serious.
Commonly used proven recipes
1. Hypertension: Harlequin glorybower leaves, Prunella vulgaris, Siegesbeckia orientalis and chrysanthemum 12 g each, earthworm, Uncaria rhynchophylla and Alisma orientale 9 g each, decocted in water.
2. Rheumatoid arthritis, rheumatic arthralgia, etc.: Harlequin glorybower leaves, Saposhnikovia divaricata and Gentiana macrophylla 12 g each, Angelica pubescens, Angelica sinensis, Chaenomeles and cinnamon twig 9 g each, decocted in water.
Commonly used formulas
1. For men and women affected by wind-dampness, or fond of drinking and exposed to wind, resulting in soreness, weakness and pain of both feet and inability to walk, or stiffness of both hands and inability to raise them: Diguanpi (flowers, leaves, stems and seeds can all be collected, chopped, sun-dried and ground into powder) 1 jin, Siegesbeckia orientalis (fried and ground into powder) 8 liang. Mix the above two ingredients evenly, and make into pills the size of wutong seeds with refined honey. Take 4 qian morning and evening with plain boiled water. Avoid eating pig liver, sheep blood and the like. Or use harlequin glorybower alone, 2 liang, decocted in water and taken with wine as a chaser, for 10 consecutive doses; or decoct in water to wash hands and feet. (Tong Wan from *Yangsheng Jingyan Heji*)
2. For hemiplegia: Harlequin glorybower leaves and stems, sun-dried and ground into powder, 2 jin in total, made into pills with 1 jin of white honey. Take with plain boiled water in the morning and with wine in the evening, 3 qian per dose. (*Gangmu Shiyi*)
3. For rheumatic pain, joint aching and hypertension: Harlequin glorybower 3 qian to 1 liang, decocted and taken; ground into powder and taken 1 qian per dose, three times a day. It can also be used in combination with Siegesbeckia orientalis. (*Shanghai Common Chinese Herbal Medicines*)
4. For one-sided headache: Sichuan pepper 5 qian, harlequin glorybower leaves 2 liang. First fry the wutong leaves until yellow, then add the pepper and fry again, sprinkle rice wine into the pan, mix and take out, roll in cloth and tie onto the painful area; drink a bowl of hot wine, cover the neck with a quilt and sleep, until sweating. (*Gangmu Shiyi*)
5. For all internal and external hemorrhoids: Harlequin glorybower leaves 7 pieces, Orostachys japonica 7 stems, Glauber's salt 3 whale. Decoct in water for fumigation and washing. (*Gangmu Shiyi*)
6. For itching from eczema or prickly heat: Harlequin glorybower appropriate amount, decocted in water for bathing. (*Shanghai Common Chinese Herbal Medicines*)
Character identification
Harlequin glorybower leaves are mostly wrinkled and curled; after flattening, the leaf blades are broadly ovate or elliptic, about 5-16 cm long and 3-13 cm wide, the upper surface green-black, the lower surface yellow-brown, the apex very pointed, the base broadly cuneate or cuneate, the margin entire or slightly wavy-toothed, both surfaces covered with downy hairs, especially abundant at the veins; the petiole is 2-8 cm long, with longitudinal grooves, densely covered with downy hairs. The branches are cylindrical or subquadrangular, about 3 mm in diameter, yellow-green, with longitudinal fine wrinkles and scattered yellow dot-like lenticels, densely covered with rusty short soft hairs, losing the downy hairs when somewhat older. Texture hard and brittle; the broken surface shows the wood pale yellow and the pith white. Odor fresh and aromatic; taste bitter and astringent. Those with green color are preferred.
Microscopic identification
[Surface view of the leaf]: The lower epidermal cells of the leaf are deeply wavy-curved; stomata are anomocytic, with sparse non-glandular hairs and glandular hairs. Non-glandular hairs are thick, 35-81 μm in diameter, with 2-12 cells, 115-670 μm long, with longitudinal cuticular warty dots on the surface. Glandular scales in surface view are round or disc-shaped, composed of 6-10 cells, 33-75 μm in diameter; the glandular hair stalk is single-celled.
[Transverse section of the leaf]: Upper epidermal cells are subcircular or square in section; lower epidermal cells are irregularly oblate, with stomata, and the cuticle is obvious. Glandular scales are oblate-spherical in section; the glandular hair stalk is single-celled, and local non-glandular hairs can also be seen. Palisade cells are cylindrical, in 1-2 rows, accounting for about 1/4-1/3 of the mesophyll, shorter near the main vein; spongy tissue is in 4-7 layers. The upper surface of the main vein is slightly raised, and the lower surface protrudes markedly downward. On the upper epidermal side of the main vein there is collenchyma, and on the abaxial side there are more than 3 rows of collenchyma. The vascular bundles of the main vein are arranged in a nearly circular pattern. There are 7-10 or more vascular bundles. The vascular bundles are collateral. The center of the main vein is parenchyma tissue, and the cells occasionally contain calcium oxalate prisms, 10-15 μm long and about 6-9 μm wide.
Physicochemical identification
1. Take the powder of this product, add methanol, reflux on a water bath for 2 hours, cool, filter, add activated carbon to the filtrate for decolorization, obtaining a pale yellow filtrate. Take 2 ml of the filtrate, add 5% sodium bicarbonate solution, adjust the pH to 9, then add Gibb's reagent dropwise, shake, producing a blue reaction. (Test for phenol groups, para or ortho)
2. Thin-layer chromatography. Sample preparation: take an appropriate amount of crude drug powder, add ethanol, heat under reflux for half an hour, concentrate the extract, then extract with 10 ml of ether, concentrate for later use. Adsorbent: silica gel G (Qingdao Haiyang Chemical Factory) for plate preparation. Developing solvent: chloroform-ethyl acetate (9:1), development distance 10 cm. Color reagent: anisaldehyde reagent, freshly prepared anisaldehyde-methanol-sulfuric acid (5:80:15), spray and bake at 105°C for 10 minutes.
Landscape uses of harlequin glorybower
Harlequin glorybower has large inflorescences and beautiful flowers and fruits; a single tree bears both flowers and fruits at the same time, with bright white, red and blue colors, a long flowering and fruiting period, and luxuriant growth. It is a fine garden plant for viewing flowers and fruits. It has an spreading plant shape and can be planted as a specimen in a sunny spot; if one is planted in an open area, it often self-propagates into a patch after a few years. It can also be arranged with other trees in courtyards, on hillsides, by streams, on embankments, on cliffs, in rock crevices and under forest.
Cultural background of harlequin glorybower - documentary discussion
① *Bencao Tujing*: "Treats malaria."
② *Gangmu Shiyi*: "Wash for goose-web wind and all sores and scabies; decoct in water to wash sweat spots. For those with damp ham swelling that does not heal for a long time, soak with Qiangyanzi in wine and take. It can also treat all wind-dampness and stop hemorrhoid swelling; decoct in wine and take. For ecthyma, pound into a paste, add tung oil and apply."
③ *Lingnan Caiyao Lu*: "Treats all carbuncles; pound and apply as a poultice."
④ *Modern Practical Chinese Medicine*: "Treats warm malaria, phlegm accumulation in the chest, all wind-dampness, obstruction and discomfort of the meridians of the four limbs, disperses tympanites, and stops dysentery."
⑤ *Shanghai Common Chinese Herbal Medicines*: "Dispels wind-dampness, relieves pain, lowers blood pressure."
Harlequin glorybower pictures