How to propagate the parlour palm? Seed propagation has a high survival rate
The parlour palm is a fairly common plant in people's daily lives, with high ornamental value, and many people in our country grow it. As more people grow it, questions about its propagation have also drawn concern, so how do you propagate the parlour palm? What are the propagation methods for the parlour palm? Below, the editor will walk everyone through it.
1. How to propagate the parlour palm: seeding / division

Speaking of how to propagate the parlour palm, it is mainly divided into two methods: seed propagation and division propagation, among which seed propagation is its main propagation method; this method, after countless trials, still has a fairly high survival rate. As for the specific details of the two propagation methods, they are introduced below, so let's take a look.
2. How to propagate the parlour palm
Seed propagation
1. Substrate selection
Before sowing the parlour palm, we must first choose the soil; choosing suitable soil can improve the survival rate. In this regard, it is best to choose a relatively loose and fertile humus soil, which has high drainage and air permeability, is less prone to waterlogging, and can also let it absorb nutrients better.
2. Substrate disinfection
After choosing the substrate, we also need to disinfect it, to avoid carrying pests and diseases that could infect the plant. We can break up the soil and spread it flat in the sun to disinfect it, or put it in an iron wok over high heat and stir-fry it, so that even if there are pests inside they will be killed; this is a very direct and effective method.
3. Seed germination
Before sowing, we also need to germinate the parlour palm seeds. We can use warm water at about 40°C to soak the seeds for about 36 hours, and once the seeds begin to absorb water and swell, we can take them out and plant them; this allows the seeds to sprout faster.
4. Sowing method
The sowing method for the parlour palm is actually very simple. First, we need to apply an appropriate amount of base fertilizer into the soil, then evenly scatter the seeds on the soil surface. After scattering, cover with 1-2cm of soil and then water. When watering, be careful to water thoroughly in one go; after that, in about 30-40 days the seeds will sprout.
Division propagation
Division propagation of the parlour palm is generally carried out in spring. First, we should choose a mixed substrate of peat and perlite, then take parlour palms over one year old grown in soilless pots and divide them in spring along with repotting, planting them in pots with the mixed substrate, with 3 to 4 plants per pot.
Parlour palm Chamaedorea elegans parlour palm illustrated guide: how to grow the parlour palm / how to propagate the parlour palm
Parlour palm profileParlour palm Chamaedorea elegans
How to grow the parlour palm and points to note an introduction to the parlour palm
The parlour palm is an evergreen small shrub, and its potted height generally does not exceed 1 m. Its stem is upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular markings on it. The leaves generally grow at the top of the stem, pinnately parted, with lanceolate leaflets, alternate, dark green, and glossy. They are 14~22 cm long and 2~3 cm wide; the bases of the top two pinnae are often fused into a fish-tail shape; young leaves are green, old leaves are dark green, and the surface is glossy, like a wax product. The spadix is axillary, with yellow flowers in small globes, dioecious; the male inflorescence is slightly upright, and the female inflorescence droops slightly when nutritional conditions are good; the berry is orange-yellow. The flowering period is spring. The leaves are flat and spreading, and a mature plant looks umbrella-shaped.
The parlour palm (scientific name Chamaedorea elegans), also known as dwarf coconut palm, miniature palm, and dwarf palm. It belongs to the palm family, genus Chamaedorea, and is also called dwarf coconut palm, etc. It is native to Mexico and Guatemala. In addition, it is shade-tolerant, so it is very suitable as a small to medium indoor potted plant, decorating indoor environments such as living rooms, studies, meeting rooms, and hotel service counters, and can add a tropical atmosphere and charm to the interior. Placed in a corner of a room or on a coffee table, it can add a vibrant touch to the interior and give the room a charming tropical look.
Morphological characteristics of the parlour palm
When potted, the parlour palm's plant height does not exceed 1 m. Its stem is slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring patterns on it. The leaves emerge from the top of the stem, are pinnately compound, parted, with broadly lanceolate leaflets, 20~40 pinnate leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green, and glossy. The plant blooms in spring, with a spicate spadix that is axillary, dioecious; the male flowers are slightly upright, and the female inflorescence droops slightly when nutritional conditions are good; the flowers are yellow and bead-like; it bears small berries that are mostly orange-red or yellow.
Plant height 4-5m, with a slender trunk. Leaves terminal, pinnately compound and arching, with a sharp tip at the end and 2 lobes at the apex. The spadix droops, a conical spike, flowers unisexual, monoecious.
The suitable growth temperature for the parlour palm is 20-30°C; it enters dormancy at 13°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C.
The parlour palm is a perennial evergreen small shrub in the palm family, genus Chamaedorea, with an upright, solitary, dark green stem that has irregular markings. The leaves are pinnately parted, with lanceolate leaflets, dark green and glossy. There are about 120 species in the same genus, mainly distributed in the tropical regions of Central America. It likes high temperature, high humidity, and a semi-shaded environment. In plant taxonomy, it is an evergreen dwarf shrub or small tree in the palm family, with a small plant size. Its English species name means elegant. Because its plant shape closely resembles a tropical coconut palm and its form is small and exquisite, beautiful and distinctive, it is named the parlour palm.
Ecological habits of the parlour palm
It likes a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20~30 degrees; it enters dormancy at 13 degrees, and the lowest winter overwintering temperature is 3 degrees. The best cultivation substrate for the parlour palm is well-drained, moist, fertile loam. When potting, a substrate can generally be made by mixing leaf mold and peat soil with 1/4 river sand and a small amount of base fertilizer. It does not have high fertilizer requirements; generally, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times per month during the growing season, and apply little or no fertilizer in late autumn and winter. Repot once every 2-3 years in spring. When watering the parlour palm, follow the principle of preferring moist over dry, and just keep the pot soil constantly moist. In summer and autumn when the air is dry, frequently spray water on the plant to increase the ambient air humidity; this benefits its growth and also keeps the leaf surface dark green and glossy. In winter, appropriately reduce the amount of watering to help it overwinter. The parlour palm likes semi-shaded conditions, and direct sunlight should be avoided in hot seasons. Under strong sun, its leaf color will fade or turn yellow, and scorched leaves and black spots will appear, losing its ornamental value. In addition, under high temperature and high humidity, the parlour palm is prone to brown spot disease. If brown spot disease is found, promptly use 800-1000 times diluted thiophanate or baijunlingqing for control. When the air is dry and ventilation is poor, scale insects are also likely to occur. If scale insects are found, they can be removed manually, or sprayed with 800-1000 times diluted omethoate for control.
Cultivation techniques for the parlour palm
The best cultivation substrate for the parlour palm is well-drained, moist, fertile loam. When potting, a substrate can generally be made by mixing leaf mold and peat soil with 1/4 river sand and a small amount of base fertilizer. It does not have high fertilizer requirements; generally, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times per month during the growing season, and apply little or no fertilizer in late autumn and winter. Repot once every 2-3 years in spring. Follow the principle of preferring dry over moist when watering, and just keep the pot soil constantly moist. In summer and autumn when the air is dry, frequently spray water on the plant to increase the ambient air humidity; this benefits its growth and also keeps the leaf surface dark green and glossy. In winter, appropriately reduce the amount of watering to help it overwinter. The parlour palm likes semi-shaded conditions and fears direct sunlight. Under strong sun, its leaf color will fade or turn yellow, and scorched leaves and black spots will appear, losing its ornamental value. In addition, under high temperature and high humidity, the parlour palm is prone to brown spot disease. If brown spot disease is found, promptly use 800-1000 times diluted thiophanate or baijunlingqing for control. When the air is dry and ventilation is poor, scale insects are also likely to occur. If scale insects are found, they can be removed manually, or sprayed with 800-1000 times diluted omethoate for control. When sown seedlings grow to 10 cm tall, they can be transplanted into nutrient pots. The cultivation substrate is peat, perlite, ceramsite, etc. After planting, the first application of nutrient solution should be thorough, until seepage is seen in the tray at the bottom of the pot. For regular replenishment, replenish once every 10-15 days; replenish water in time according to the moisture condition of the substrate, but do not replenish water on days when replenishing solution. Before each water replenishment, first pour out the seepage in the tray; if no disease occurs, it can be reused, otherwise it should be poured out. When there is no seepage in the tray, water in time. Each time you replenish solution or water, it is best to use a small spray bottle for irrigation; for large-scale cultivation, spray irrigation facilities can be installed to directly spray nutrient mist. This can both rinse the substrate and increase the air humidity around the plant, which is beneficial to normal plant growth.
From October to February of the following year in winter, this is the relatively dormant period for the parlour palm (night temperature 12-14°C); the amount of watering should be controlled to prevent symptoms such as root rot, yellow leaves, and necrosis caused by excessively low temperatures. During the winter heating period in northern regions, room temperature can generally be maintained at 15-20°C or 25°C. At this time, indoor air is dry, so attention should be paid to replenishing water; it is best to spray the leaf surface 1~2 times a day, and the flower pot should not be placed close to a stove, radiator, or air conditioner, to prevent acute water loss from the leaves, causing dry tips, yellow leaves, or even death. In addition, in winter, place the flower pot in a sunny indoor spot to facilitate photosynthesis in the plant.
Soilless cultivation
Soilless cultivation technology for growing the parlour palm uses an inorganic chemical fertilizer solution, that is, the nutrient solution cultivation method. The parlour palm prefers shaded environments and should not be placed near a south window; it should be placed on north, east, or west windowsills, or in equivalent locations. In darker places, the leaf color grows dark green; under direct light, the leaf color gradually turns yellow-green. Too much strong light can cause scorched leaves and black spots. The optimum growth temperature is between 20~30°C; it enters dormancy at 13°C, and in winter it must not be lower than 10°C.
When watering, grasp the principle of preferring moist over dry, and keep the pot soil moist year-round. In winter, appropriately reduce the amount of water; it is best to water with cool boiled water. In summer, clean rainwater may be used. Frequently spray water on the leaves and the surrounding ground to maintain relatively high air humidity.
Management table
Growth temperature: between 20~30°C; it enters dormancy at 13°C, and in winter it must not be lower than 10°C.
Sunlight: prefers shaded environments, 60% shade net.
Cultivation substrate: river sand or 1/2 vermiculite + 1/2 perlite
Fertilization: during the growing period, apply a hydroponic nutrient solution once every 2~3 weeks. For example, 901 soilless cultivation nutrient solution or Huabao, diluted 1000~1500 times.
Watering: in summer, water 2~3 times a day; in winter, control the amount of watering. Wash the fixed substrate every 6~8 weeks, especially in summer. This is to prevent harmful substances from damaging the plant. Frequently test the pH value of the nutrient solution; being too alkaline will make the leaves turn yellow. The parlour palm has strong water absorption; when the water level drops, replenish water in time to the specified position.
It is very important to master the management methods for soilless cultivation of the parlour palm. Try to avoid direct sunlight to prevent the nutrient solution from evaporating too quickly, and it can be placed in a bright place. After the roots have filled the container, remove 1/3 of the roots, also remove dead and yellow leaves, rinse the substrate, and repot into a pot one size larger.
Nutrient solution
1. Easily soluble salts should be used to prepare the nutrient solution.
2. Mineral nutrient elements should be controlled within 4‰. Control the amount of trace elements used.
3. Measure the pH value of the nutrient solution in time to maintain the acidity and alkalinity required by the plant.
4. The types of various elements in the nutrient solution vary with different plants and different growing conditions.
The parlour palm is called the desk coconut. If matched with a plain and elegant container, it looks even more beautiful and distinctive. Choose a ceramic or glass container with no hole at the bottom or an opening on the side, and it should suit the size of the plant. First spread clean large or medium ceramsite as a fixing substrate, about 2~3cm thick, then place the plant into the flower pot. Try to spread the root system out in all directions, then fill with clean ceramsite, 3~5cm from the pot rim. Note that during the growing period, the roots must be washed clean. Remove old roots, let the roots spread out, and place them in the center of the flower pot. After transplanting, inject the prepared diluted nutrient solution until it reaches 1/5 of the container height.
Pre-harvest management
The placement density is 6~18 pots per square meter, depending on the size of the plant. The parlour palm likes a slightly moist to dry soil environment. In addition to applying a small amount of leaf mold as base fertilizer at the base of the flower pot when planting, during the vigorous growth stage a thin liquid fertilizer should also be applied as a top dressing once every half month. The parlour palm likes a loosely shaded environment and should avoid direct sunlight; especially plants that have been kept in a shaded environment for a long time, if suddenly placed in strong direct sunlight, will have their leaves scorched. Just maintain appropriate ventilation in the environment. The parlour palm likes a warm environment; its suitable growth temperature is 16~28°C, and the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 5°C.
Management and care
After being brought out in spring, it should be placed in a shaded place, avoiding direct sunlight; relatively bright light is enough. When the plant is relatively large, repot it in time. It has relatively high requirements for environmental humidity. When watering, grasp the principle of preferring moist over dry to keep the pot soil moist. When the air is dry, frequently spray water on the plant to increase the ambient air humidity. This flower and grass does not have high fertilizer requirements; from May to October, apply cake fertilizer water twice a month.
Seeds should be sown as soon as they are collected. At a temperature of about 25°C, germination takes about 3 months. Parlour palm seedlings tiller a lot, so divisions should be made in time. Plant height should preferably be controlled between 40-60 cm, so fertilization should not be excessive; generally, 3-4 applications of thin liquid fertilizer during the seedling stage and in spring and autumn are enough; repot once every 2-3 years in spring to facilitate growth.
Key care points
To grow the parlour palm well, the issues to note include:
Light: the parlour palm likes semi-shade; under strong sunlight the leaf color will become scorched yellow; if placed in insufficient light for a long time, the plant will become spindly. So indoors it is best to place it in a bright spot by a window.
Temperature: the parlour palm likes warmth; the suitable growth temperature is 18-24 degrees Celsius, and it enters dormancy at 13 degrees Celsius. In winter it is best not to go below 10 degrees Celsius.
Watering: the parlour palm likes water; during the growing period keep the soil moist, and during the dormant period wait until two-thirds of the pot soil is dry before watering. In addition, the parlour palm likes high air humidity; if it is too dry, the leaf tips will turn brown. So during dry periods such as autumn, measures such as frequently spraying the leaf surface should be taken to increase the air humidity around the plant.
Fertilization: during the growing period, apply a compound fertilizer to the plant once a month.
Pot soil: it is best to grow it in well-drained, loose, and fertile loam.
Propagation: the parlour palm is generally propagated by seeds.
Hydroponic care
1. Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn scorched yellow, but in too dark conditions the leaf color will also fade.
2. The parlour palm is most beautiful at a plant shape of 30~50 cm; when the plant is too tall, the lower part becomes bare and this reduces its ornamental value. When growing it, small plants can be cultivated below. 3. Obtaining hydroponic material: use the potted root-washing method. After washing with water, new roots can grow in a few days.
According to current nutrient solution formulations, most plants can be grown hydroponically, but they need careful care, otherwise it is easy for the flowers to die because of nutrients! See Potted Plants Converted to Hydroponics [1]
Points to note
To grow the parlour palm well, the following technical issues should be noted:
① Beware of scorched edges caused by excessive light. Because the parlour palm likes relatively shaded environments, indoors it should be placed near a north window, east window, or another place with bright scattered light; the parlour palm fears strong direct light most. Even short exposure to the sun can cause leaf scorch and yellowing of the leaves. Conversely, if placed in too dry and dark a place for a long time, the leaf color will also fade and lose its gloss.
② Suitable temperature. The optimum growth temperature is generally 20~30°C; in winter the indoor temperature should be between 12~14°C, and the lowest temperature must not be below 10°C.
③ Maintain the surrounding air humidity. It is necessary to frequently spray water on the leaf surface to increase air humidity.
④ Do not use acidic soil for the pot soil; a small amount of clay should also be added.
⑤ Repot once every 3 years.
⑥ During the seedling stage, apply thin liquid fertilizer 3~4 times in spring and autumn.
The parlour palm is also known as the dwarf coconut palm. Its plant shape resembles a tropical coconut palm, staying green all year round, petite and lovely. Placing one pot indoors can recreate a tropical scene with much charm. Because the parlour palm's root system is relatively fine, loose and fertile culture soil should be chosen when potting; using heavy clay soil easily causes root rot. Because it likes relatively shaded environments, indoors it should be placed near a north window, east window, or another place with bright scattered light. The parlour palm fears strong direct light most. Even short exposure to the sun can cause leaf scorch and yellowing of the leaves. Conversely, if placed in too dark a place for a long time, the leaf color will also fade and its gloss will weaken. The suitable growth temperature is 20°C~30°C; in winter the room temperature should be between 12°C~14°C, and the lowest must not be below 10°C. The parlour palm has strong water absorption; during the growing period the pot soil must be kept moist frequently, and watering should be controlled during the dormant period. In summer, watering should be sufficient, and the leaf surface should be sprayed frequently to increase air humidity. To meet indoor ornamental needs, plant height is best controlled between 40 cm and 60 cm, so fertilization should not be excessive. Generally, during the seedling stage and in spring and autumn, 3-4 applications of thin liquid fertilizer are enough. The ratio of nitrogen to phosphorus in the fertilizer is best at 1.5:1.2. This ratio can both promote sturdy stems and improve leaf gloss. Repot once every 2~3 years in spring to facilitate growth. Because parlour palm cuttings are not easy to root, it is mainly propagated by sowing.
Propagation methods of the parlour palm: seed propagation
Selection: before sowing, the seeds must first be selected; whether the seeds are well chosen directly affects whether sowing succeeds.
1. It is best to use seeds harvested in the current year. The longer the seeds are stored, the lower their germination rate.
2. Choose plump seeds with no defects or deformities.
3. Choose seeds free of pests and diseases. Disinfection: disinfection includes two concepts, one refers to disinfecting the seeds, and the other refers to disinfecting the sowing substrate. For household seed disinfection, it is common to soak the seeds in hot water at about 60°C for a quarter of an hour, then use warm hot water to promote germination for 12~24 hours. For disinfecting the sowing substrate, the best method is to put it in a pot and heat it by stirring, so that any pests and diseases are scalded to death.
Germination promotion: soak the seeds in warm hot water for 12~24 hours, until the seeds absorb water and swell. For very common seeds that germinate easily, this step can be skipped.
Sowing: for tiny seeds that are difficult to pick up with hands or other tools, you can wet one end of a toothpick with water and stick the seeds one by one onto the surface of the substrate, cover with substrate 1 cm thick, then place the sowing flower pot into water with a depth of 1/2~2/3 of the pot height, and let the water slowly soak up (this method is called the "pot soaking method"); for larger seeds that can be picked up with hands or other tools, directly place the seeds into the substrate and sow them in spots at a spacing of 3 x 5 cm. After sowing, cover with substrate at a thickness of 2~3 times the seed size. After sowing, use a sprayer or a fine-hole watering can to wet the sowing substrate; later, when the pot soil is slightly dry, water again, still being careful not to water too forcefully, to avoid washing the seeds out;
Post-sowing management: after sowing in late autumn, early spring, or winter, if a cold wave and low temperatures occur, the flower pot can be wrapped in plastic film to help keep it warm and moist; after the seedlings emerge, promptly uncover the film, and let the seedlings receive sunlight before 9:30 every morning or after 3:30 in the afternoon, otherwise the seedlings will grow very weak; after most of the seeds have emerged, appropriate thinning is needed: pull out diseased and unhealthy seedlings so that the remaining seedlings have a certain space between each other; when most of the seedlings have grown 3 or more leaves, they can be transplanted.
A robustly growing plant can bloom in 3~4 years. When blooming, it can set seed after artificial pollination, and the fruit needs 6~7 months to mature. Sowing should preferably be done immediately after collection, and spring sowing is preferable. Choose plump, large, fresh seeds, wash the berries, rub the seeds, and sow them directly in a river sand seedling bed, using plastic film to keep warm for seedling raising. The soil should be kept moist, and the temperature should be controlled at 24~26°C. Generally it takes 3~6 months to germinate and emerge. When the seedlings have 3~4 leaves, a thin application of decomposed human waste water or 0.3% urea solution can be applied, mixed evenly with a small amount of potassium sulfate and poured on, to promote robust growth. The following spring, thinning can be done, and the seedlings can be potted for cultivation and care.
Division propagation
Choose a mixed substrate of peat and perlite, use plastic flower pots with a diameter of 15 cm to 20 cm, and add ceramsite particles at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer. Take parlour palms over one year old grown in soilless pots and divide them in spring along with repotting, planting them in flower pots with the above mixed substrate, with 3 to 4 plants per pot.
From October to February of the following year is the relatively dormant period for the parlour palm. In northern regions, place it in a sunny indoor spot in winter, with the temperature kept at 15°C to 25°C. If the air is dry, spray water on the leaf surface every day to keep it moist. When the indoor temperature is low, water less; water again only when the surface layer looks dry, because with low temperatures and too much water, root rot easily occurs. In northern summers, indoor scattered light is suitable for parlour palm growth, but attention should be paid to frequently spraying water on the leaf surface to keep it moist.
After planting, the first application of comprehensive nutrient solution should be thorough, until seepage is seen in the tray. Normally, replenish solution and water according to routine, but when replenishing solution do not replenish water, and keep the substrate moist.
The parlour palm likes warm and humid environments and likes to grow in fertile, loose soil with good aggregate structure. The suitable growth temperature is 20~30°C; it enters dormancy at 13°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C. For potting, use leaf mold, peat soil, or dried pond mud, vegetable garden soil, plus 1/4 coarse river sand or coal cinder particles, and add a small amount of decomposed organic fertilizer and a small amount of superphosphate, mixed evenly as base fertilizer for the culture soil. For small pots of seedlings, 3 plants are suitable; for medium pots, 5 plants are suitable. After potting, water with settling water, and place in a semi-shaded shed for cultivation. After new leaves emerge, switch to normal management. During the growing period from April to October, apply liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer 1~2 times a month; the fertilizer is mainly decomposed peanut bran water, or a compound fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium diluted with water and poured on. Apply compound fertilizer every 15~20 days to promote rapid growth and lush greenness; apply 5~8 grams for small pots and 10~12 grams for medium pots. The pot soil should preferably be moist; water once only after the pot soil looks dry. Every 10~15 days, spray a solution of 0.2% urea + 0.2% monopotassium phosphate to promote robust plant growth and dark green leaves. In late autumn and winter, apply less or no fertilizer. It is preferable to repot once every 2~3 years in mid-to-late March of spring. During the growing period, water with the principle of preferring dry over moist, and keep it ventilated and cool, which benefits plant growth and can improve disease resistance. Just keep the pot soil moist. If there is a lot of rain or excessive watering, and the pot soil is too wet, it easily causes rot and disease in the lower leaves of the plant, leading to the occurrence and spread of black spot disease, causing leaves to become scorched yellow or even die.
Humidity: keep the relative air humidity at 75~85%. The basic requirement for cuttings to root is that before the cuttings root, it must be ensured that the cuttings remain fresh and tender so they can carry out photosynthesis to produce rooting substances. However, cuttings that have not rooted cannot absorb enough water to maintain their internal water balance, so misting must be used to reduce water evaporation from the cuttings: under shaded conditions, mist the cuttings 3~5 times a day; the higher the temperature on sunny days, the more times to mist; the lower the temperature on cloudy and rainy days, the fewer times to mist or not at all. But excessive misting makes the cuttings susceptible to infection by pathogens and rot, because many kinds of pathogens exist in water.
Light: sunlight is indispensable, because the cuttings still need to continue photosynthesis to produce nutrients and rooting substances to supply their rooting needs. However, the stronger the light, the higher the temperature inside the cuttings, the more vigorous the transpiration of the cuttings, and the more water consumed, which is not conducive to the survival of the cuttings. Therefore, after cuttings are inserted, 50~80% of sunlight must be blocked. After the root system grows, gradually remove the shade net: on sunny days, remove the shade net at 4:00 every afternoon, and cover the shade net again before 9:00 the next morning.
The parlour palm grows relatively fast in a high-temperature, high-humidity, semi-shaded environment. It fears direct sunlight; under strong sun its leaf color will fade or turn yellow, and scorched leaves and black spots will appear, losing its ornamental value. It is relatively shade-tolerant; during the seedling cultivation period or growing period, especially in summer and autumn, the shading degree is generally 60%, but in winter and spring it is better to give relatively bright scattered light. Placing it indoors for 1~2 months will not have much effect on plant growth and ornamental value, but during placement attention should be paid to spraying water on the leaf surface to clean the leaves, making the leaf color dark green, glossy, and bright. Regularly expose it to scattered light, and pay attention to fertilizer and water management to improve the ornamental effect.
High temperature, high humidity, and poor ventilation easily cause black spot disease, especially during the vigorous growth period from April to November, so attention must be paid to disease prevention. Once scorched leaf tips are found, promptly spray 50% thiophanate or 50% chlorothalonil 800~1000 times diluted solution for control, and at the same time ensure indoor ventilation, coolness, and air permeability, and appropriately increase the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, such as plant ash, to promote robust plant growth. The soil should be well-drained, not too dry, and not too wet. During the growing period, the pot soil should be kept moist to facilitate plant growth and improve disease resistance. Dry air and poor ventilation easily cause scale insect damage, which can be controlled by spraying 40% omethoate 1000 times diluted solution or 25% buprofezin wettable powder 1500~2000 times diluted solution, or 20% fenvalerate 1500 times diluted solution; depending on the insect situation, spray again after 10~15 days.
Renewal propagation
Advance girdling for callus healing. After late May, keep the stem-top cutting at a height of 15 cm to 20 cm, then peel off the old leaves below this height cleanly to expose the stem. Then use a sharp knife to girdle below a certain stem node on the stem to a width of 0.6 cm to 1 cm, and peel off the stem skin. After that, air-dry for a week to let the wound heal naturally on the mother plant. During this period, spray the leaf surface in the morning and evening to appropriately increase air humidity, and place it in a location with 50% to 70% shading, to ensure effective accumulation from photosynthesis.
Timely air layering. One week after the girdling and callus treatment, use plastic film to wrap the girdled area, tie the lower part of the girdle tightly with string, fill it with moss mixed with soil at suitable moisture, then tie the upper opening tightly as well. Generally, replenish water about once every 10 days, about 2 to 4 times in total, and after about one month roots can be seen. After rooting, choose fine weather to cut off the cutting, remove the film, and let the roots retain as much moss-mixed soil as possible. After planting, keep it in a cool place for a period of cultivation, and then it can be managed normally like the original mother plant; the new plant will bring new vitality.
Uses and functions of the parlour palm: household functions
It can simultaneously purify benzene, trichloroethylene, and formaldehyde in the air, and is a "high-efficiency air purifier" among plants. It is very suitable for placement indoors or in newly renovated rooms.
Application value
The parlour palm has a small and exquisite plant, a graceful plant shape, elegant posture, dark green and bright leaf color, and strong shade tolerance; it is an excellent small to medium indoor potted foliage plant. The leaves are flat and spreading; a mature plant looks umbrella-shaped, dignified and steady, simple and elegant, with natural and unrestrained leaves, jade-like and crystalline, giving people a feeling of sincerity, simplicity, and vitality. Small plants are suitable for planting in small pots and placed on a desk or tabletop as a treasure on the table; they are also suitable for hanging indoors to decorate the space. Larger plants can be displayed in halls, meeting rooms, airport lounges, and other places, and are an important foliage plant for beautifying interiors; it has already become popular all over the world.
Pest and disease control of the parlour palm
Common pests and diseases of the parlour palm include the brown soft scale and anthracnose.
1. Brown soft scale. Pest symptoms: the leaf color becomes lighter, showing pale spots; in severe cases the plant weakens, affecting growth and losing ornamental value. Control methods: (1) use the red-spotted ladybird to control pests with pests; (2) when larvae appear in large numbers, spray with 40% omethoate 1000 times diluted solution once a week.
2. Anthracnose. Disease symptoms: at the beginning of the disease the leaf tips are black-brown, the lesions slowly expand, and later the leaf lesions merge into one area. Control methods: (1) strengthen care, do not bruise the leaves, spray more water to keep the leaves clean; (2) in summer, spray 1% Bordeaux mixture of equal amounts once every 10 days.
In addition, in hot seasons the parlour palm can also suffer from leaf spot disease and root rot, so attention should be paid to ventilation in its growing environment and soil air permeability. When necessary, thiophanate and chlorothalonil can be sprayed for control.
Variety classification of the parlour palm and similar distinctions
These two plants are relatively similar in appearance; the specific distinctions are as follows:
① Areca palm: the stem is smooth, without thorns, cylindrical, slightly swollen at the base, up to 3-8 m tall; the leaves are smooth and slender, pinnately parted, with 40-60 pairs of leaflets per leaf, in 2 rows, relatively hard, not drooping, lanceolate, 40-60 cm long, with a long tail-like acuminate tip and unequal short 2-lobed apex, bright green; the slender petiole and stem are golden yellow; the leaf sheath is yellow-green, initially white-powdered on the upper part, later falling off; the spadix grows below the leaf sheath cluster, much branched, arranged as a panicle, dioecious, with small golden-yellow flowers; the fruit is top-shaped, purple-black, without an endocarp.
② Parlour palm: maximum height 1-3 m; when potted, most are about 20-50 cm. The stem is upright, unbranched; the leaves emerge from the top, pinnately parted, with broadly lanceolate leaflets, dark green, and glossy. It blooms in spring, with an axillary spadix, dioecious; the male inflorescence is upright, and the female inflorescence droops slightly when nutritional conditions are good; the flowers are yellow and small-globular; the fruit is orange-red.
Identifying the parlour palm
The parlour palm also has many other names such as dwarf coconut palm, miniature palm, miniature palm, and happy palm. It belongs to the palm family, genus Chamaedorea, and is a perennial evergreen small tree. The plant height is about 1 meter; in warm regions grown in the open ground it can reach more than 2 meters. The root system is well developed. The stem is slender and upright, usually solitary, deep green and with ring marks left by the base of the leaf sheath after the leaves fall off, with varying lengths between the ring marks. The leaves are alternate and clustered at the tip of the stem, odd-pinnately parted, 30-40 cm long, with lanceolate leaflets, 20-40 of them, dark green, leathery. The spadix is much branched and grows in a panicle-like form. Monoecious, with both sexes in the same inflorescence; the flowers are yellow. The fruit is nearly spherical, blue-black when mature. It rarely sets fruit in cultivation.
Parlour palm pictures
How to grow the parlour palm tree_ cultivation methods and points to note
The parlour palm is a plant very suitable for household cultivation. It has the effect of purifying harmful gases in the air such as benzene, formaldehyde, and trichloroethylene. It is a plant that acts as a high-efficiency air purifier and is very suitable for placement in newly decorated homes. The parlour palm plant is very small, its plant characteristics are also very graceful, its posture is very elegant, and its leaf color is also very dark green with very good gloss. The leaves of the parlour palm are very dignified and simple, giving people a feeling of sincere simplicity and vitality. It not only has a very good air-purifying effect, but also has a certain effect of beautifying the environment, and is a very popular foliage plant. Below, let us learn together about how to grow the parlour palm tree, as well as the cultivation methods and points to note for the parlour palm tree?
[Introduction to the parlour palm tree]
The parlour palm tree is also known by other names such as dwarf palm, miniature palm, miniature coconut palm, and dwarf coconut palm. It is a foliage plant in the palm family, genus Chamaedorea, native to Guatemala and Mexico. The parlour palm is a shade-tolerant plant and is very suitable for cultivation as an indoor potted plant. It is generally grown in living rooms, studies, offices, meeting rooms, hotels, and other places, and can add some vitality and charm to the home. The parlour palm is an evergreen shrub plant; its potted height is about 1 m, the stem is upright, with no branching, and the leaf color is dark green with very good gloss, with very good ornamental value.
[Growth habits of the parlour palm tree]
The parlour palm is suitable for growing in a humid, semi-shaded and cool, warm environment. The suitable temperature is between 20-30 degrees Celsius. If the temperature is lower than 13 degrees Celsius, the parlour palm tree will enter a dormant state. In winter the temperature must not be lower than 3 degrees Celsius. It likes to grow in moist, fertile, well-drained soil. If potted, a base soil can be made by mixing leaf mold and peat soil. The parlour palm avoids direct strong light, otherwise it will cause the leaves to turn yellow, with black spots and scorched leaves in early summer, thus losing ornamental value.
[How to grow the parlour palm tree]
The parlour palm has many propagation methods. Seed propagation can be used: the seeds must be selected, then subjected to germination treatment, then sown, and after sowing, corresponding management carried out. Division propagation can also be chosen; for division propagation the soil should be a perlite and peat substrate soil, which can effectively improve the survival rate. There is also renewal propagation, in which the girdling wound must be healed in advance, generally carried out in late May. The parlour palm is generally propagated by seed sowing, as this gives a higher survival rate.
[How to Care for a Parlor Palm]
1. Soil: A growing medium made by mixing leaf mold, sandy soil, peat soil, perlite, and base fertilizer is needed. You can also use a mix of sun-dried pond mud and black mountain soil, and a mix of vegetable garden soil and leaf mold is suitable for pot cultivation. Choosing loose, fertile, well-draining soil is the most suitable option.
2. Light: Parlor palms like to grow in a relatively shady environment and dislike direct strong light, which would otherwise cause the leaves to turn yellow and withered. However, if insufficient light occurs for a long time, the plant will not grow particularly robustly. If grown indoors, it is best to place it by a window where there is ample light.
3. Temperature: Parlor palms like to grow in a warm environment and are suited to growing at 18-24°C. At 13°C they enter a dormant state. If kept in winter, the temperature must not be lower than 10°C, otherwise it will be detrimental to their growth.
4. Humidity: Parlor palms like to grow in an environment with relatively high humidity. If the weather is relatively dry, the leaf tips will turn brown, which affects their ornamental value. In the dry autumn, use misting to raise the humidity in the air.
5. Watering: Parlor palms like to grow in an environment with relatively sufficient moisture. During the growing period, the soil moisture needs to be increased; during the dormant period, wait until the potting soil is almost dry before watering again.
6. Fertilizing: During the growing period of the parlor palm, apply a compound fertilizer once a month, and apply diluted liquid nitrogen fertilizer once every half month, but in autumn, apply less fertilizer or stop fertilizing.
[Precautions for How to Care for a Parlor Palm]
1. When preparing the potting soil, acidic soil must not be used. A small amount of clay can be added to the mix, which is more beneficial for growth.
2. Repot the parlor palm once every three years, and the base soil needs to be freshly prepared. During the seedling stage, apply a thin liquid fertilizer three or four times in spring, which is more beneficial for growth.
3. When caring for a parlor palm, maintain air humidity. You can mist the leaves or the air to increase the humidity in the air.
4. When the parlor palm is growing, do not expose it to direct strong light, otherwise the leaves will become scorched and yellow, thereby reducing their ornamental value. It should be placed in an environment with diffused light for illumination, which is more beneficial for growth.
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