What to Do When Alocasia Leaves Turn Yellow? Apply Dilute Fertilizer, Supplement Water, and Provide Shade

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Alocasia is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Alocasia in the Araceae family, with high ornamental value, and can be seen all over China. However, even the most beautiful plant will lose its overall aesthetic appeal if its leaves turn yellow. So what should you do when Alocasia leaves turn yellow? What are the causes and how should you solve them?

I. What to Do When Alocasia Leaves Turn Yellow - Find the Cause

To know what to do when Alocasia leaves turn yellow, we first need to find the cause. We need to know what is causing the yellowing of the leaves so that we can address it accordingly. Improper watering, insufficient humidity, and pest and disease infestations are all causes of this phenomenon. As for how to solve them, there are detailed explanations below. Let's take a look.

II. Causes of Alocasia Leaves Turning Yellow (with Solutions)

1. Improper Fertilization

Fertilizer is one of the main nutrients during the growth of Alocasia. If we apply too little fertilizer or the fertilizer concentration is too high, it will cause the leaves of Alocasia to turn yellow. If too little fertilizer is applied, it will turn yellow and wither due to insufficient nutrients. If the fertilizer concentration is too high, it will burn the plant and cause yellowing.

Solution: Alocasia has a high demand for fertilizer during its growth process, especially after entering the growing season. It has a high demand for water and basically needs fertilizing once every week so that its leaves can grow large. However, the fertilizer concentration must not be too high when fertilizing. It must be diluted with water before application. If the concentration is too high, it can easily burn the plant.

2. Insufficient Water

Alocasia prefers a warm and humid environment, so water is very important for it. However, the amount of watering is something we need to pay attention to. If watered too much, its root system will be unable to breathe, resulting in yellowing leaves. If watered too little, the plant will dry out and turn yellow.

Solution: If water accumulates when watering Alocasia, we must promptly drain the standing water. As long as it is drained in time, the problem generally won't be serious. If the yellowing of Alocasia leaves is caused by dryness, we can spray the leaves with water more often to maintain environmental humidity.

3. Too Much Light

Alocasia prefers to grow in a warm and humid environment and is relatively intolerant of direct sunlight. During cultivation, if the light is too strong, it can easily scorch the plant, causing the problem of Alocasia leaves turning yellow.

Solution: When cultivating Alocasia, it is best to place it in a spot with scattered sunlight, avoiding direct sunlight. In summer when the light is relatively intense, we can keep it in a semi-shaded indoor spot to prevent scorching the plant and causing its leaves to turn yellow.

4. Pest and Disease Infestation

During the growth of Alocasia, if we do not care for it properly, problems such as pests and diseases can easily occur. These problems are extremely harmful to the plant, not only affecting its ornamental value but also causing Alocasia leaves to turn yellow and dry up in severe cases.

Solution: When problems such as pests and diseases occur, we must deal with them promptly. If delayed too long, the damage to the plant will be great and handling will be more troublesome. For specific prevention and control methods, you can refer to the article on pest and disease control for Alocasia. The editor will not repeat them here.

Hydroponic Flower Knowledge | Complete Guide to Hydroponic Flower Knowledge

Hydroponic Flower Knowledge | Complete Guide to Hydroponic Flower Knowledge

Ten Questions on Hydroponic Flower Techniques

1. What flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages do they have?

Answer: Theoretically, any flower can be grown hydroponically, but different types of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need water control to promote flowering may have their flowering affected under hydroponic conditions. Some plants that are sensitive to oxygen deficiency need regular aeration of the nutrient solution to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different types of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so appropriate nutrient solution formulas need to be adopted. Therefore, flowers and plants need to go through proper acclimation before they can be grown hydroponically. There are many plants suitable for hydroponics, including Golden
Money Tree (Pachira aquatica), Money Tree (Pachira aquatica), Peperomia, Sun God, Calathea, Little Angel, Marianne, Sansevieria, Golden Barrel Cactus and other cacti, as well as Jewel Orchid, Snake Plant, etc. Hydroponic flowers can go for long periods without watering and fertilizing, have no foreign leaves, are clean and hygienic, beautiful and elegant, and are the first choice for home beautification and greening.

2. What substances are contained in the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?

Answer: The hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the essential nutrient elements needed for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, chlorine, etc. It is a colorless, odorless, and non-toxic product. Please use it with confidence.

3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two concentrated solutions?

Answer: The main reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is that when the concentration of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, and copper in the nutrient solution is too high, they will precipitate each other and cause the nutrients to become ineffective. Therefore, to ensure adequate and balanced nutrient supply, these non-toxic compounds cannot be mixed together in the concentrated nutrient solution. So, if the hydroponic nutrient solution currently sold on the market is only one type, the nutrients are often unbalanced.

4. Is more nutrient solution in the hydroponic flower container better?

Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth of the flower's root system and should not be too much. Generally, when the root system is relatively well-developed, part of the root system should be exposed to the air above the liquid surface so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air, which is very beneficial for healthy root growth. Never add too much nutrient solution to the container, but it should not be too little either. If too little, you will need to replenish the nutrient solution frequently, causing inconvenience in management. Usually, maintaining a nutrient solution layer of about 5-10 cm deep is sufficient.

5. Do home hydroponic flowers need sunlight?

Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If it is a shade-loving species, it should not be exposed to direct sunlight. However, since hydroponic flowers placed at home are usually in a poorly lit environment, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed on a balcony with slightly stronger light at regular intervals. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day a week is sufficient.

6. Do hydroponic flowers require a different nutrient solution for each type of flower?

Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every type of flower needs its own corresponding nutrient solution. It is sufficient to select different nutrient solutions based on different major categories. Of course, a general-purpose nutrient solution can also be used. Currently, the Soilless Cultivation Technology Research Laboratory of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage type, inner plant type, orchid type, and flowering type.

7. Can flowers grown directly in soil be directly converted to hydroponics?

Answer: Converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics must go through a series of treatments. First, take out the soil-cultivated flowers and wash the roots clean, then soak the roots in hydroponic root treatment solution for about 20 minutes before placing them in a hydroponic container for hydroponic cultivation.

8. Do fish kept together with flowers need to be fed?

Answer: No feeding is needed. This is because most of the fish kept together with flowers are small species. These fish only need to absorb plankton and root secretions from the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If fed, it is more likely to cause the fish to overeat and die. At the same time, adding feed can easily cause the nutrient solution to become cloudy and reduce the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution, affecting the growth of both flowers and fish.

9. When to replenish or replace the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?

Answer: This depends on the rate of water consumption by the plants. If the weather is dry and the plants are large, generally the nutrient solution needs to be replenished about every 15-20 days. When replenishing, just add an appropriate amount of nutrient solution. Never add too much when replenishing the nutrient solution; just add about 1/3-1/2 of the container depth.

10. How long is the shelf life of concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?

Answer: The shelf life of concentrated solution for hydroponic flowers is almost unlimited, but generally do not use any that has been stored for more than 5 years. When storing the concentrated nutrient solution, keep it away from light as much as possible and do not place it where children can reach it.
Experience Talk on Home Hydroponic Flowers

As an eco-friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-cultivated flowers: 1) Water replaces soil, odorless and clean. 2) No need to repot or loosen soil, reducing flower-growing labor. 3) Lightweight, can be moved anytime and anywhere. 4) Flexible material selection, can be reasonably matched according to indoor decoration. 5) Fewer harmful microorganisms in water, high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can be stabilized at over 80%.

1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Years of practice have proven that foliage plants are the first choice for home hydroponic flowers, such as Guangdong Dieffenbachia, Spotted Dieffenbachia, Monstera, Alocasia, Pothos, Lucky Bamboo, Asparagus Fern, Spider Plant, Aloe, Tradescantia, Zebrina, Coleus, Brazilwood, Miniature Coconut Palm, Hibiscus, Fuchsia, etc. In addition, Salvia, Azalea, Camellia, Cyclamen, Amaryllis, Calla Lily, Crown of Thorns, Kalanchoe, Hyacinth, etc. - these flowering plants achieve good results with hydroponics. Boston Fern, Calendula, Petunia, Redback Excoecaria, etc. have low survival rates as hydroponic flowers.

2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials. 1) Container. Any beautiful container that can hold water will do. It is best to use a transparent container, such as a beverage bottle (cut off the narrow neck), wine glass, teacup, vase, fish tank, etc. The top opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, and material of the container should be coordinated with the hydroponic flowers. It is best to clean and disinfect before use. 2) Bedding material. Bedding material is often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container, mainly to stabilize the plant, such as: pebbles, yellow sand, perlite, etc. Small pebbles with an elegant appearance and various shapes are best. They should also be cleaned and disinfected before use.

3. Timing for hydroponics. Spring and autumn are most suitable for hydroponics, but it also varies by flower species. If the indoor temperature is 15°C-28°C, foliage plants can be grown hydroponically all year round. Flowering plants should be grown hydroponically when the first flower bud is about to open. For example, Cyclamen, Hyacinth, Azalea, Camellia, etc. are often grown hydroponically in early January, so that the full bloom period coincides with the Spring Festival, giving people the joy of spring warmth and blooming flowers.

4. Acquisition and treatment of hydroponic materials. 1) Root-washing method. Select potted plants with full shape, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases. Remove from the pot and soil, wash the root soil with water close to room temperature, and cut off decayed and aged root strands (for those with dense fibrous roots, about 1/3 can be cut off, but avoid damaging new roots), then soak the roots in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes (both for sterilization and disinfection, and to promote new root growth), then proceed with hydroponics. This method is mostly used for larger plants and flowers that are difficult to root. 2) Water cutting method. Select robust, pest-free semi-lignified branches of the current year, cut them off and insert them in water for hydroponics. The cutting position is usually 2-3 mm below the stem node. The cut should be smoothed with a sharp knife (previously wiped and disinfected with white liquor), and the lower leaves of the branch should be removed. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a black plastic bag around a transparent container to facilitate rooting of the cuttings. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.

5. Water used for hydroponics and water changing. 1) Water. Mountain spring water is best, as its water quality is clean, pollution-free, non-precipitating, and contains various trace elements necessary for plant growth. Boiled water that has cooled is second best. It is best not to use tap water, as it contains many impurities, easily precipitates, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial for flower growth. 2) Water changing. Due to normal plant growth and metabolism, after a period of hydroponics, the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed. At the same time, the root system produces mucus, and the water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning. Much of the nutrient solution added to the water has also been absorbed by the plant, and too much residual unabsorbed elements can also harm the flowers. Therefore, water must be changed regularly. The change in water quality is directly related to the temperature. Spring and autumn are the peak growing seasons for flowers, so change the water once every 7-10 days; in summer, change the water once every 4-6 days; in winter, change the water about once every 15-20 days. Each time you change the water, wash away the mucus on the roots and cut off aged roots and rotten roots. The water level should be level with the root zone. Too deep can easily cause oxygen deficiency and root rot, while too shallow can cause the root system to lack water and affect growth.

6. Adding nutrient solution for hydroponics. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, after half a month of hydroponics, new roots will appear. Along with the growth of the flowers and plants, nutrient solution must be continuously added in conjunction with water changes. Different types of flower nutrient solutions can be purchased from the market as needed. It must be noted that: 1) The various nutrient solutions purchased are stock solutions and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies by flower species, so the instructions should be read carefully. 2) Each type of special nutrient solution must be used for its specific purpose to avoid mismatching. For example, if orchid nutrient solution is applied to Clivia, it will cause Clivia not to bloom or to bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period. Directly changing water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also works well, such as Pothos, Spotted Dieffenbachia, etc.

Pest and Disease Control Techniques for Hydroponic Flowers

Due to the special nature of their display environment, once static hydroponic flowers suffer from pests or diseases, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides for pest control, nor to use large doses of fungicides for sterilization. Although these chemicals can kill pests and sterilize, they also pollute the environment.

Prevention should be the priority for possible pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers. When selecting flowers for hydroponics, choose plants that are robust, growing vigorously, and free of pests and diseases as much as possible. If pests are found during cultivation, manual capture or rinsing with tap water can be used to remove them. Infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers are not many. Only a few leaves may show brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular circular wet stain-like lesions, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned to prevent spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by pathogen infection; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot and stuffy high-temperature weather in summer, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sunlight, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shade, nutrient solution concentration being too high, or inability to absorb nutrients in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. In hot summer when the temperature is too high, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot more likely - this is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. For the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How to care for static hydroponic flowers that have become disconnected or have rotten roots? Due to improper management, or root oxygen deficiency and rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower part to become disconnected and losing ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers that have become disconnected or have rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used. Cut off the still healthy upper branch at 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the disconnected lower branch, as long as it does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, at which point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky Bamboo, Pothos, Rainbow Dracaena, Syngonium, etc. can all use this method.

Complete Manual for Home Hydroponic Flowers

Four Methods to Obtain Hydroponic Plants

1. Remove flowers cultivated in soil or other organic substrates, or in inorganic substrates, from their pots, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and switch to static hydroponics with nutrient solution.

2. Use flower branches as cuttings, insert them directly into still water, and after rooting, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) during growth, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as Spider Plant and Billbergia. These small plantlets can be picked off and directly grown hydroponically.

4. For flowers that produce many tiller buds, such as Clivia and Bromeliads, the method of peeling off tiller buds with roots can be used for hydroponics.

How to Prepare Hydroponic Nutrient Solution

Home static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must meet three basic conditions:

1. Select plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, for use as static hydroponic flowers.

2. Choose a leak-proof cultivation container without drainage holes that matches the size and style of the hydroponic flowers.

3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with ion-balanced absorption (appropriate ratio) and containing all essential mineral nutrients for flower and plant growth. The recommended formula is as follows:

(1) Macroelements: Calcium nitrate 0.27 g, potassium nitrate 0.13 g, monopotassium phosphate 0.08 g, magnesium sulfate 0.13 g.

(2) Trace elements: Disodium EDTA 8.0 mg, ferrous sulfate 5.0 mg, manganese sulfate 1.4 mg, boric acid 2.0 mg, zinc sulfate 0.07 mg, copper sulfate 0.04 mg, sodium molybdate 0.09 mg. (3) Purified water: 1 liter (1000 ml).

The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC is less than 0.5 mm/cm.

Cultivate the selected flowers in a container, inject hydroponic nutrient solution for cultivation, and it becomes a uniquely charming static hydroponic flower.

To prepare the nutrient solution, it is best to use purified water. Of course, drinking tap water can generally also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. Both have been strictly treated, are clean and hygienic, and meet the requirements of sterile (low-bacteria) cultivation. However, it must be fully noted that purified water has fewer impurities and pathogens and basically does not contain the nutrient elements necessary for plants, while tap water contains unstable nutrient elements as the composition of the water source changes. Therefore, the nutrient solution prepared with purified water has a stable and consistent composition, while the nutrient solution prepared with tap water has an unstable composition.

Liquid chlorine is used to disinfect tap water. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flowers and plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Let out the tap water, store it in a larger-diameter bucket for a few days, and stir it with a wooden stick a few times to remove the chlorine. If water is urgently needed for changing, you can add 3 to 5 grains of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as hypo) to 10 kg of tap water, stir well, and it can also achieve the effect of chlorine removal.

Most foliage flowers prefer a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance to alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the pH of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which can facilitate the absorption of trace elements by flowers, keep physiological metabolism undisturbed, ensure normal growth, and keep the leaves green.

How to Apply Foliar Fertilization

Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under conditions of root oxygen deficiency, which can cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. To improve the quality of flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves. A fine-nozzle spray bottle should be used, trying not to let the fertilizer solution run off. The underside of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growing season, which can make hydroponic flowers lush and flourishing. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as Spathiphyllum, Four-season Begonia, Cane Begonia, Calla Lily, etc., during the bud stage, a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week until the flowers open.

Temperature Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponic flowers only change one method of flower cultivation; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flowers used in static hydroponics mostly originate from Latin American rainforests, or tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded valley areas, and belong to cold-intolerant flower plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer cold damage, with leaf edges scorching, old leaves turning yellow, and wilting and falling off. Under static hydroponic conditions, the same phenomenon can occur. Some flowers are more cold-resistant, such as Ivy, Vinca, and Senecio, which grow normally at temperatures of 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, some flowers lose their leaf luster, grow sluggishly, and develop scorch-like brown spots on leaf edges, showing a dormant state of intolerance to high temperatures, such as Cane Begonia, Four-season Begonia, Coleus, etc. Root rot is common in static hydroponics above 30°C. Of course, this is also related to the fact that dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution decreases as temperature rises. Keeping the temperature at 15°C to 28°C is suitable for various static hydroponic flowers. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each type of flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.

Light Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant, shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of these flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growing period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lighting, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the flower leaves cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as Coleus and Croton, will lose their leaf color in low-light environments and become dull and lusterless. These flowers can only maintain their leaf color and luster in an environment with relatively sufficient light but not direct strong light.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of placed flowers should be rotated at regular intervals. This work can be combined with cleaning the container and changing the nutrient solution. Rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation after cleaning the roots, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

Humid Environment and Good Ventilation

The places of origin of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment for them to grow well. A simple method is to spray water on the flower leaves (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to the balcony or outdoors for the operation, and after spraying, move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets adhere to the leaf surface and do not drip down. For relatively firm leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera and Clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaves. For larger flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin of clean water can be placed beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can also increase environmental humidity.

There must be a well-ventilated environment. This is an important condition for normal flower growth. Static hydroponic flowers placed indoors, if doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is turbid, are at a disadvantage for their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, the room does not open doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains. In such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers cannot get the light they need and lack fresh air even more. Dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and their growth becomes worse and worse, resulting in yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened at regular intervals to create air convection, allowing fresh outside air to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required for hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with relatively thin leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be done in a timely manner, which is beneficial to both the growth of hydroponic flowers and human health. Places with large hydroponic flower displays especially need to do this work well.

Pest and Disease Control for Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponics breaks free from soil-borne pest and disease infection, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment and can still be harmed by pests and diseases from the surrounding environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing them to suffer varying degrees of disease. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots and washed of roots and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, insect eggs, larvae, etc. If not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Due to the special nature of their display environment, once static hydroponic flowers suffer from pests or diseases, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides for pest control, nor to use large doses of fungicides for sterilization. Although these chemicals can kill pests and sterilize, they also pollute the environment.

Prevention should be the priority for possible pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers. When selecting flowers for hydroponics, choose plants that are robust, growing vigorously, and free of pests and diseases as much as possible. If pests are found during cultivation, manual capture or rinsing with tap water can be used to remove them. Infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers are not many. Only a few leaves may show brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular circular wet stain-like lesions, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned to prevent spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.

Non-infectious diseases are not caused by pathogen infection; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot and stuffy high-temperature weather in summer, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sunlight, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shade, nutrient solution concentration being too high, or inability to absorb nutrients in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. In hot summer when the temperature is too high, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot more likely - this is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. For the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How to care for static hydroponic flowers that have become disconnected or have rotten roots? Due to improper management, or root oxygen deficiency and rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower part to become disconnected and losing ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers that have become disconnected or have rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used. Cut off the still healthy upper branch at 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the disconnected lower branch, as long as it does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, at which point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky Bamboo, Pothos, Rainbow Dracaena, Syngonium, etc. can all use this method.

How Many Hydroponic Flowers Are Suitable for Display

Growing hydroponic flowers indoors can help regulate mood, beautify the environment, and also purify the air. It is beneficial to display a few plants appropriately. If the room area is not large and too many flowers are displayed, it will cause flowers to compete with people for oxygen at night. So how many flowers are suitable to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered appropriate to plant one or two kinds of flowers per 10 sq m of room area. Based on this standard, for a room of 50 sq m to 60 sq m, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of varying sizes can both satisfy viewing and avoid flowers competing with people for oxygen at night.

How to Choose Hydroponic Flower Materials in Winter

Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people for their cleanliness, beauty, and easy maintenance. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, you must pay attention to the following four "shoulds":

First, choose flower species suitable for hydroponics. If you buy species that are not suitable for hydroponics and grow them in water, they will gradually die before long because the roots rot. Aquatic plants, wetland plants, and a group of relatively drought-intolerant terrestrial plants are all quite suitable for hydroponics, such as Umbrella Plant, Syngonium, Pothos, Philodendron, Zebrina, Lucky Bamboo, etc.

Second, choose flower species with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, they need relatively high temperatures to overwinter and are difficult to safely overwinter in ordinary homes, being prone to cold damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with a little cold protection include Monstera, Purple-leaf Tradescantia, Aloe, Spider Plant, Umbrella Plant, Miniature Coconut Palm, Rhapis, etc.

Third, choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors take soil-cultivated flowers out of the soil, wash the soil off the roots, and immediately supply them to the flower market. Although such flower materials look normal, they still need to go through an adaptation process before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so careful identification is necessary when purchasing. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or stem base.

Fourth, choose robust plants free of pests and diseases. Plants with upright and vigorous branches and leaves and full, glossy leaves are conducive to displaying the ornamental effect that flowers should have.

Advantages of Hydroponics

1. Simple Daily Management

The daily management of "Hydroponic Flower King" hydroponic flowers is very simple. Apart from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the vigorous growth period in spring and summer, and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, it does not need special care. Usually, you only need to spray water on the leaves in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaves, just wipe them with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. It saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil, and daily watering, making it very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.

2. Clean and Stylish

Because hydroponic flowers are completely removed from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-bacteria nutrient solution environment, they will not pollute our living environment like soil-cultivated flowers due to pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil, making our homes safer, cleaner, and more reassuring. Moreover, because they are removed from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, containers, and materials to plant them. We can not only appreciate the flowers and leaves but also appreciate the root growth process that is not usually seen and their various beautiful forms. It is very neat and stylish.

3. Many Applicable Varieties, Technology Easy to Master and Operate

Because the technology for adapting plant roots from a soil environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, "Hydroponic Flower King" does not need to be cultivated through planting baskets to produce water roots, nor does it need early computer or electric field mutagenesis. Only very simple technical treatment is needed, and soil roots can quickly transform into water roots. Anyone can grow vigorous, lush hydroponic flowers. This greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives products greater profit margins, and increases the competitiveness of products in the market; at the same time, because production costs are lower, more people can enjoy the lifestyle trend brought by new technology, rapidly expanding market share. Because planting baskets are not used, hydroponic flowers become more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater will change the nutrient solution concentration and pH value, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for open-air cultivation. In this way, some light-loving plants are more difficult to grow hydroponically indoors at home, but common shade-loving and semi-shade-loving flowers can basically all be successfully grown hydroponically. The number of tested varieties has currently reached nearly 400. If you have a sunlight or artificially regulated greenhouse, then theoretically any plant can be grown hydroponically, only with different degrees of difficulty.

4. Green and Eco-friendly, Can Keep Flowers and Fish Together

"Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic ingredients, so fish and flowers can be kept together for a long time without any side effects harmful to flowers or fish. The fish in our specialty store still grow well after long-term rearing, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants with very good results. Practice has proven that it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special ingredients, mosquitoes and insects are not likely to breed in the nutrient solution. Moreover, when you change the water, if you pour the discarded nutrient solution into your soil-cultivated potted flowers at home, there will be an unexpected surprise. Practice has proven that "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and eco-friendly nutrient solution, with very obvious effects.

Selection of Hydroponic Flower Types

The growth and development of flowers require suitable conditions of water, oxygen, nutrients, light, temperature, etc. The water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as light and temperature are suitable and the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in time, flowers can grow normally in water.

Due to differences in ecological habits and tissue structure, different flowers have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have air-conducting tissue inside their bodies, and the oxygen produced during photosynthesis can be sent through the air-conducting tissue to the root system for respiration; some flowers have aerial roots at the stem nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen needed by the plant from the air; some flowers, although they do not have air-conducting tissue or aerial roots for absorbing oxygen, are very adapted to hydroponic conditions. However, for some flowers, the oxygen content in the water cannot meet the needs of their normal growth and development, so such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to succeed in hydroponics, it is necessary to choose flower species that can adapt to hydroponic conditions. Do not blindly cultivate them, lest hydroponics fail.

Flower Types Suitable for Hydroponics

Araceae

Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When propagated by water cuttings, most can root in a relatively short time and grow rapidly, quickly forming a plant shape with certain ornamental value; after soil-cultivated plants are washed with water, most of the existing root systems can adapt to the hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers suitable for hydroponics include Pothos, Guangdong Dieffenbachia, Dieffenbachia, Silver King, Golden Queen, Cluster Philodendron, Mini Monstera, Monstera, Spathiphyllum, Green Emerald, Philodendron, Philodendron panduriforme, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Syngonium, Alocasia, Anthurium, Jade Gem, etc.

Commelinaceae

Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as: Purple-leaf Tradescantia, Purple-backed Spiderwort, Lophatherum, Zebrina, etc., all of which can root and grow quickly when grown as water cuttings.

Liliaceae

The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as: Aloe, Triangle Aloe, Haworthia, Spider Plant, Cordyline, Dracaena, Dragon Tree, Snake Plant, Agave, Golden-edged Lucky Bamboo, Sea Onion, Silver-edged Dieffenbachia, Silver-edged Ophiopogon, etc.

Crassulaceae

Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively adaptable to hydroponic conditions, such as: Aeonium, Echeveria, Silver Wave, Gem Flower, Kalanchoe, etc.

In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics include Aucuba japonica, Cyperus alternifolius, Coleus scutellarioides, Gynura aurantiaca, blue senecio, Begonia maculata, Begonia masoniana, Philodendron 'Emerald', Clivia miniata, Paphiopedilum, Codiaeum variegatum, Senecio cineraria, Kleinia, Pereskia, Tripidium, Vriesea, Cryptanthus, Chloranthus spicatus, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Euphorbia, Cereus, Vinca major variegata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Senecio macroglossus, Hedera helix, Hedera helix, Rhapis excelsa, Chamaedorea elegans, etc.

When choosing the types of hydroponic flowers, in addition to considering whether they can adapt to hydroponic conditions, the following factors should also be noted:

Although some flowers adapt very well to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high overwintering temperature requirements. For example, some species of the genus Dieffenbachia and flowers such as Codiaeum variegatum require an overwintering temperature above 15°C; Epipremnum aureum, Syngonium podophyllum, Dracaena sanderiana, and Dracaena species also require an overwintering temperature above 10°C. For rooms that are heated in winter, this is of course not a problem, but for most households, it is still very difficult to let these flowers safely pass through the cold winter. Although some flowers will not cause the death of the entire plant after overwintering, due to the effects of low-temperature freezing damage, the leaves of the plant will become wilted and listless, lose their proper luster, turn yellow, and the leaf tips or leaf margins will become scorched. Or new scorched spots appear on the leaves, and it may even cause a large number of leaves to fall or some branches and leaves to die, thereby losing their ornamental value. Therefore, when there are no stable conditions, attention must be paid to choosing flower types with relatively strong cold resistance. Flowers suitable for hydroponics in ordinary households include:

Flowers with strong cold resistance

For example, Rohdea japonica, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Rhapis excelsa, Agave americana, Aucuba japonica, Graptopetalum paraguayense, Urginea maritima, Ophiopogon japonicus variegatus, etc. can tolerate low temperatures around 0°C.

Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance

For example, Monstera deliciosa, Tradescantia pallida, bamboo, Aloe, Chlorophytum comosum, Pachyphytum, Cyperus alternifolius, Gynura aurantiaca, Senecio cineraria, Chloranthus spicatus, Cereus, Vinca major variegata, Hedera helix, Chamaedorea elegans, etc., can safely overwinter with a little protection.

Of course, some flowers such as Philodendron erubescens, Philodendron 'Emerald', Syngonium podophyllum, Epipremnum aureum, Sansevieria trifasciata, and Codiaeum variegatum, although it is relatively difficult for them to overwinter safely, are easy to obtain, grow quickly, and have high ornamental value, so they can also be considered for purchase and cultivation when the weather warms in spring.

The issue of shade tolerance

Because indoor light conditions are relatively poor, it is advisable to choose flower types that prefer partial shade or tolerate partial shade. At the same time, even shade-loving or shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity. For example, Codiaeum variegatum, Tradescantia pallida, and Tradescantia zebrina need sufficient diffused light, but Spathiphyllum, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Aglaonema modestum, and Aglaonema 'Silver King' all have extremely strong shade tolerance. Because different rooms and different lighting conditions in rooms vary, suitable flower types should be selected according to the light conditions of the placement position to ensure normal growth of the flowers and maintain good ornamental quality. When light is insufficient, it will cause the branches and leaves of the plant to grow excessively, the stems to become thin, the internodes to become longer, the leaves to become smaller and deformed, to lose green color and lose their proper luster, and colored stripes on the leaves to become lighter and fade, and may even produce a large number of fallen leaves, thereby seriously affecting the ornamental quality of the flowers.

Techniques for hydroponic cultivation of spider plant

Spider plant, with fresh green leaves and orchid-like leaf shape, is fresh and elegant, and is a common household foliage flower that people love. In addition, it has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.

1. Container: The container bottle can be single-layered or double-layered. For a single-layer bottle, take a bottomless plastic bottle or bottomless ceramic bottle and plant the spider plant in it. For a double-layer bottle, use a plastic sieve as the upper layer, and the lower bottle is a bottomless bottle vessel. Plant the spider plant in the upper plastic sieve and let the spider plant roots hang down into the bottle.

2. Taking seedlings: Remove the potted or field-grown spider plant from the pot or dig it up from the ground, remove the soil from the roots, wash the roots with clean water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, keep the fibrous roots, cut off some leaves (old leaves and leaves with pests or diseases), and keep healthy leaves, generally leaving 6 to 10 leaves.

3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle potting method, insert the prepared spider plant into the bottle, tightly bind the bottle mouth with sponge and insert one plastic straw, which is used for supplying water. Let the spider plant stand upright, put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the bottle, and let the spider plant roots grow immersed in water. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the spider plant on the plastic sieve, with the roots passing through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle. Put ceramic material or gravel (large particles) in the sieve, let the spider plant stand upright, and put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the lower bottle. After potting is completed, place the spider plant indoors or in a cool place for management.

4. Management:

① Water: For cultivation in a single-layer container bottle, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, and input water through the straw until full. For a double-layer bottle, change the water once a week. When changing the water, pour out the bottle water, wash the container bottle clean, put in clean water and flower nutrient solution, and then place the plastic sieve on the water bottle.

② Fertilizer: By adding water and changing water, flower nutrient solution is also added at the same time. For root-outside topdressing, spray the branches and leaves once every 3 days with diluted flower nutrient solution.

③ Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, spray the leaves with all-purpose powder mixed with water.

④ Promoting flowering: Spider plant blooms half a year after potting. When blooming, do not spray water on the flowers to prevent early flower drop. After the flowers fade, cut the flowers from the branch tips to promote reblooming.

Outstanding plants for static hydroponics

Plants of the Araceae family have 105 genera and more than 2,500 species. They originated in tropical Asia and arose in waters or swamps in forest regions. Through a long historical evolution, the vast majority have now developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common excellent ornamental plants (genera) in Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia, Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, etc. Although the plants of the above genera are all terrestrial, they have extremely close kinship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves wetland species, some have aerial roots, some easily produce adventitious roots, and some easily develop aerenchyma under stress environments.
In static hydroponics of terrestrial plants, root respiration is in a severe state of oxygen deficiency. The prerequisite for success is correctly selecting the plant species, that is, it has close kinship with aquatic plants. Araceae plants have a close kinship with aquatic plants, specifically as follows:
1. Araceae plants evolved and developed centered on aquatic genetic genes. The new Engler system believes that the most primitive genus in Araceae is Acorus, and the most evolved is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or wetland evergreen herb, the most primitive genus in Araceae, originating in the Old Tropics of the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago), and first arose in aquatic environments. Pistia is almost distributed across the freshwater waters of all major continents of the Old and New Worlds. It is the most evolved monotypic genus in Araceae, a floating plant propagated vegetatively, easy to migrate and spread, and with very strong reproductive capacity. In addition, Araceae also includes famous aquatic species such as Acorus gramineus, Calla palustris, and Colocasia esculenta.
As an aquatic plant, the evolved genus Pistia is not a simple repetition of the primitive genus Acorus, but a dialectical “negation of the negation”, a repetition on a higher basis. Although the vast majority of species in Araceae grow on land, they all come from aquatic ancestors, forming in appearance a “negation” of their aquatic ancestors. And finally transforming into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia, this return is another “negation”, which is the dialectical law of the “negation of the negation”. It shows that the opposing poles of aquatic and terrestrial reach unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are outstanding plants for static hydroponics.
2. Araceae belongs to Arales, which has only two families. The other family in the same order is the aquatic Lemnaceae, and Lemnaceae are floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that Araceae and aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor, and there is an extremely close kinship between them.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, following an approximately spiral curve.
3. The relationship of Arales in plant classification systems: The Hutchinson system believes that Arales evolved from Liliales, and a few aquatic types in Liliales have a parallel developmental relationship with the marsh-dwelling Najadales. The Takhtajan system believes that Arales, Arecales, and Balanophorales share a common ancestor (primitive lily relatives), and can be traced further back to Magnoliales. The Cronquist system believes that Arales has close kinship with Pandanales and Arecales, and shares a common ancestor with Liliales. From the above classification systems, it can be inferred that Arales has kinship correlations with Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, share a common ancestor with aquatic Lemnaceae, and have kinship correlations with Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic species. Therefore, containing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants outstanding plants for static hydroponics.

Judgment and handling of root rot in hydroponics

During hydroponic cultivation, plants often suffer root rot due to management and other reasons. For example, excessively low temperature, overly concentrated fertilizer, and diseases can all cause root rot, and root rot will deteriorate water quality and affect plant growth. To judge whether roots are rotten: first, smell the roots with the nose; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted; second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also have rotted and deteriorated; third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the root system turns yellow and changes color, it indicates the root system has been damaged. After the root system rots, gently pull at the root zone, and the epidermis is very easy to tear off, leaving only the lignified part.

After root rot appears, cut it off in time. Generally, root rot gradually spreads upward from the root tip. After pruning, cut until normal roots are reached. After changing the water, observe carefully. If root rot continues to appear, handle it promptly.

Simple hydroponic facilities -- bottles and jars and cultivation management

Using waste containers, such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles, white polystyrene hard foam boxes (cases), etc., with slight preparation, they can become hydroponic carriers of different sizes and shapes. This not only adapts to local conditions and makes full use of materials, but can also green the surrounding environment, with a charm of returning to nature.

1. Bottles and jars

1. Such as metal beverage cans, glass or plastic wide-mouth bottles, paper foil-lined square beverage boxes, etc. They were originally used to hold liquids. As long as the original contents are rinsed clean, they can be used as hydroponic carriers.

2. Planting cup: According to the size of the mouth of the selected container, choose a plastic cold drink cup that fits about 1/3 of the mouth as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut out a “well”-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup so that the root system can extend through the cup bottom into the nutrient solution, while the plant anchoring material will not leak out. The opening also has a ventilation function.

3. Anchoring the plant: Prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (nonwoven cloth) about 8×12 cm used for clothing padding. Gently rinse off the soil from the plant seedlings to be hydroponically grown or purchased potted flowers with soil, without damaging the root system. Wrap and roll the root system with the non-woven fabric, then wrap the outside with porous plastic sponge (cut scraps from shoulder pads for jackets or sofa and chair cushions), or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as thermal insulation material, some yellow, some yellow with white) to thicken it, so that it can fit exactly into the plastic planting cup to anchor the plant. If none of the above items are available, floral foam can also be properly cut to serve as anchoring material. Immerse the non-woven fabric roll wrapping the root system together with the exposed roots into the bottle or jar containing nutrient solution. It must be noted that the nutrient solution surface should maintain a space distance of no less than 1 cm from the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to the success or failure of hydroponics. Through the capillary action of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the roots for nutrition. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time, the distance from the liquid surface to the bottom of the planting cup can be larger, about 3 cm.

4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, the bottle body must be covered with a light-shielding material to prevent direct sunlight from breeding algae and competing with the cultivated plants for nutrients. In summer, to prevent the liquid temperature from rising greatly due to direct sunlight exposure, it is best to have sunshade measures or place it where sunlight cannot directly shine.

2. Boxes and cases

1. Box body: Usually white hard polystyrene foam boxes used for packaging and shock absorption, or corrugated cardboard boxes and wooden boxes with a certain strength, can all be used. Generally about 35×25×15 cm to 60×40×16 cm. If the box bottom (body) has holes, it can be leveled with wooden boards or foam boards. Line the inside of the box with black agricultural film to prevent nutrient solution leakage. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is not light-transmitting, the film can be omitted. If there is no black film, other films can also be used as substitutes.

2. Upper cover: The upper cover also serves the function of a planting board. Find a polystyrene foam board of the same area as the box and about 2.5 cm thick to serve as the upper cover and planting board. Open a certain number of planting holes with a diameter of about 6 cm. As with bottles and jars, as long as the selected plastic cold drink cup can be placed in it while exposing about 1/2 cup height, it is fine. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6-16 holes. In addition, open a small hole with a diameter of 2 cm on the side of the upper cover near the inner side of the box body, for routine observation of the nutrient solution level and adding nutrient solution.

3. Planting cup: Material selection and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.

4. Floating board: Take a polystyrene foam board 2.5-3 cm thick and 2.5-3 cm smaller on all four sides than the net area inside the box as the floating board. Regularly open some small holes with a diameter of 1-2 cm on it to increase the air content of the floating board and facilitate roots extending into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm dry thickness), or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25-50 g/sq m non-woven fabric on the floating board to absorb nutrient solution. If these things really cannot be obtained, medical sterilized absorbent gauze can also be used as a substitute. The area of the absorbent cotton layer is about 6 cm larger on all four sides than the floating board, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang freely from all four sides of the floating board (like an apron) and immerse into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrient solution, thereby ensuring that a moist layer with nutrient solution is formed on the floating board. The plant root system can extend freely on the floating board and have more direct contact with air. Another part of the root system can still extend through the four sides of the floating board, or through the small holes on the floating board, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can compensate for the unfavorable environment of ordinary static hydroponics, which cannot circulate nutrient solution and oxygenate.

5. Cultivation management:

(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. At the time of initial planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven fabric root roll extending from the planting cup, so that the nutrient solution can be absorbed upward. The highest liquid level must leave a certain space in the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3-5 cm due to plant absorption and transpiration, nutrient solution should be added until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.

(2) When the nutrients in the nutrient solution change greatly, or when there is precipitation, turbidity, foul odor, or pathogenic infection, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, up to complete renewal.

Requirements of hydroponic flowers for a humid environment and good ventilation

The places of origin of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment for them to grow well. A simple method is to spray water on the leaves of the flowers (to prevent the sprayed water mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets adhere to the leaf surface and do not flow down. For relatively firm flower leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera deliciosa and Clivia miniata, you can wipe the leaf surface with a wet towel, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, you can place a shallow dish or basin filled with clean water beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can similarly increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers are placed indoors. If doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is turbid, it is unfavorable for their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, if doors and windows are not opened and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the needed light nor fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth will become worse and worse, producing yellowing and falling leaves and weak, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection, so that fresh outside air can enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course reach the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with relatively thin leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. They should be ventilated in a timely manner. This is beneficial to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flower displays need this work even more.

Light requirements of hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally, when placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is diffused light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully satisfied. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as Coleus scutellarioides and Codiaeum variegatum, will lose the color of the leaf surface in a relatively weak light environment and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light that is not directly exposed to strong light can such flowers maintain colorful leaves.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of placed flowers should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined with cleaning the vessels and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the root system, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

How hydroponic flowers safely overwinter

How hydroponic flowers overwinter

Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8°C, and tissues will necrose below 0°C. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5°C, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, indoor winter temperatures generally do not fall below 5°C. If there are a few days of extreme low-temperature weather, it can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; in the north, because most indoors have heating, it can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.

Why hydroponic flowers need water changes

Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer. At the same time, because of root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more, so hydroponic flowers need to be given new nutrient solution after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers. The reason soil-cultivated flowers need fertilization and soil replacement once a year is also this. For hydroponic flowers, the interval between water changes should be shorter in the vigorous growth period of spring and summer, and can be longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

Hydroponic method for cyclamen

Growing cyclamen in water began to appear in Europe only in the last year or two. Because this cultivation method frees cyclamen from traditional flower pots and substrate, it is both clean and beautiful, and can give blooming cyclamen plants multiple cultivation and application forms. As soon as it appeared on the market, it won enthusiastic welcome from consumers. In fact, hydroponic cyclamen is not difficult. First, you need to choose a satisfactory cyclamen potted flower and prepare a container for hydroponic cyclamen. Once the preparation work is complete, you can begin making hydroponic cyclamen. For hydroponic cyclamen, the purchased cyclamen potted flower should be turned out of the pot together with the substrate (flower soil), placed under a faucet and rinsed clean with a relatively gentle stream of water. You can also place the plant together with the substrate in a basin filled with water, rinse off the substrate in the water, and then rinse clean with tap water. Note that throughout the entire process of removing the substrate, the movements must be gentle, trying to avoid damaging the cyclamen root system. The rinsed cyclamen plant can then be placed in the pre-prepared hydroponic container. Add water, and a beautiful hydroponic cyclamen is made.

It should be pointed out that no fertilizer needs to be added to the water for cultivating cyclamen. The nutrients in the cyclamen corm can allow the cyclamen plant to maintain normal growth and flowering for 4-6 weeks. At the same time, the water surface height should be kept below the corm. Generally, according to the evaporation of water, add water to the container 1-2 times a week to maintain the water surface height.

In fact, in hydroponic cyclamen, the cyclamen plant is only one factor. To make hydroponic cyclamen distinctive and highly individual, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessels and the combination method of cyclamen plants. This all depends on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.

Hydroponic method with exposed roots for Hoya

Hoya has traditionally been soil-cultivated. Now, through experiments with exposed-root hydroponics, it has the following characteristics: ① labor-saving; ② hygienic; ③ few pests and diseases; ④ simple management; ⑤ long flowering period; ⑥ roots, leaves, and flowers can all be enjoyed.

The method of exposed-root hydroponics is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-cultivated Hoya, wash it clean with clean water, cut off dead leaves and leaves with pests or diseases, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a bottom hole), put a few beautiful river stones in the bottom of the bottle, move the treated Hoya seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the root system, add clean water and flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a cool place.

(3) Management: First, spray the leaves with clean water once a day. After one or two days, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days. Second, change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water. Third, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the head of the Hoya, half a milliliter each time, and then inject once a month to promote growth, flowering, and prolong the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers fade, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can bloom again.

There is a big difference between hydroponic flowers and water-grown flowers

In recent years, some water-grown and hydroponic flowers have been favored by people because they are fresh and environmentally friendly, elegant in style, easy to maintain, and convenient to combine. On the surface, the cultivation forms of water-grown and hydroponic flowers are the same, namely liquid maintenance, so many people confuse the two. In fact, they are clearly different.

Flowers used for water cultivation generally have enlarged bulbs, which store abundant nutrients. Their growth and flowering mainly rely on the nutrients stored in themselves. During cultivation, it is only necessary to soak the root system in clean water and fix it in place, with no need to supply nutrients. Flowers suitable for water cultivation mainly include Narcissus, Tulipa, Hyacinthus, Dracaena sanderiana, etc. To make water-grown flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom brilliantly, the key is to choose fully developed bulbs to provide the nutrients needed during their growth process; second, change the water frequently, insisting on changing the water once every 2 to 3 days (Dracaena sanderiana once every 7 to 10 days), maintaining sufficient oxygen content in the water and improving root activity; third, maintain sufficient sunlight to make them grow robustly.

Hydroponic flowers, by contrast, fix the plant roots on the cover plate or floating board of a flower pot and soak the root system in water, and the water must be equipped with reasonable inorganic nutrients. Therefore, hydroponic flowers are also called nutrient solution cultivation. The habits and internal structure of plants suitable for hydroponics are suitable for normal growth in water. At present, the main cultivated varieties include Clivia miniata, Chlorophytum comosum, Schlumbergera, Dracaena fragrans, Rohdea japonica, Alocasia, Monstera deliciosa, Graptopetalum paraguayense, Tradescantia zebrina, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, and other plants.

Northeastern University in China, using bioengineering mutation technology, after 8 years of effort, has developed 9 series and more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; including both cactus and succulent plants, and flowering flowers such as Clivia miniata and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as Bromeliaceae, Anthurium, and Hippeastrum, have also successfully achieved hydroponics. Some flowers with Chinese characteristics, such as Ludisia, have also achieved hydroponic domestication.

In truly well-mutated hydroponic flower plants, the traits of the root system have already changed. The root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertically growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-grown plants, which are distributed in a network. After aquatic mutation, the water root genes of the plant are expressed, so the leaves of truly aquatic flower plants become larger and thicker, and the leaves and branches are more tender than those grown in soil.

The key to hydroponic flowers is to prepare the nutrient solution well. When preparing the nutrient solution, never use metal containers or containers that have held grease, acids, or alkalis. When using tap water to prepare the nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat chlorides and sulfides in the water. For hydroponic flowers, add or replace the nutrient solution once a week, and note that the pH value should be controlled between 5.5 and 6.5. The replaced nutrient solution can be used as fertilizer for other crops.

Brief introduction to hydroponic techniques for flowers

Hydroponics of flowers is one common type of soilless cultivation. There are many methods. Several commonly used ones are briefly described below.

Deep flow technique: The characteristic is that the plant root system is fully or partially immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution is flowing; the nutrient solution is mixed with air to dissolve oxygen.

Nutrient film technique (NFT): The nutrient film technique was developed from the plastic bag technique. A suitable amount of nutrient solution is placed in a plastic bag to cultivate plants. On this basis, further improvement was made: the plastic bag was changed to plastic film, laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution is a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution, and part is exposed to moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film is white outside and black inside to wrap the plant, forming a dark internal space.

The advantages are: it better solves the root system's demand for oxygen for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, and the cost is low; plants grow quickly, are easy to manage, and it is suitable for large-scale production.

Aeroponics technique: After atomization, the nutrient solution is sprayed around the plant root system. The mist condenses on the root surface, and water is absorbed by the roots. The roots are continuously or discontinuously in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problem of water, nutrient, and oxygen supply, and plants grow quickly. Aeroponics can also be used in cutting propagation.

Glass bottle hydroponics technique: The aqueous solution can use a glass canning jar. Wrap the surroundings of the bottle with black plastic film, or coat it fully with black paint, or paste a layer of black paper, to the extent that the inside of the bottle is not light-transmitting. Shading is beneficial to root growth and avoids algae growth. In summer, put a layer of white paper around the outside of the black bottle to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the bottle cap, open a hole in the middle, clamp the plant, cover the bottle cap, and the top of the cap should also be black. Pour nutrient solution into the bottle, not too full, and leave pores for the plant to breathe oxygen. If it is water insertion to promote rooting, then there is no need to use nutrient solution; just add water, and after roots grow, replace with nutrient solution. Specific operation process:

Changing liquid: For small seedlings, change the nutrient solution once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For adult flowers, change once a week during the peak growth season in summer, and once every 1 to 2 weeks in non-growth seasons.

Ventilation: Open the bottle cap for a moment every morning and evening to fully expose the root system to the air. After a period of adaptation, it can go more than 1 month continuously without ventilation.

Adding water: Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so water should often be added to the bottle to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.

Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution: Fertilizer tablets sold on the market or prepared chemical fertilizers can be used. If conditions permit, you can prepare it yourself. The formulas are as follows:

Formula 1: (pH 6-6.5)

Potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.44 g/L; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/L; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/L; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Formula 2: (pH 6-6.5)

Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/L; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.27 g/L; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Preparation method of trace element solution:

Boric acid 2.86 g, zinc oxide 0.11 g, manganese chloride 181 g, cupric chloride 0.05 g, sodium molybdate 0.025 g. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 mL water, then dilute to 1000 mL.

Multiple hydroponic methods for flowers

① Water insertion method: This is the simplest and easiest method to succeed. Cut part of the stem or branch from the selected mother flower plant, insert it into water, and under suitable conditions it will root, sprout, and grow into a new plant. When cutting branches, cut 3-5 mm below the node, and the cut surface should be flat, without longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches with aerial roots, protect the aerial roots and insert them into water. Epipremnum aureum, Dracaena sanderiana, and others are all suitable for this hydroponic method.

② Root-washing method: Choose flowers with ornamental value, robust growth, and already formed by soil cultivation (or other media cultivation), remove the soil, wash the root system, and then change to hydroponics. When washing the roots, it is best to use running water. Place the washed flowers in a prepared vessel and pour in tap water that covers 2/3-1/2 of the root system. Initially change the clean water once a day, and at the same time wash the roots and vessel. After a week, reduce the frequency of water changes. When the cultivated flowers grow new roots in the water, it indicates they have adapted to the hydroponic environment, and then water can be changed once every 7-10 days, or even longer.

③ Tiller peeling method: Suitable for flowers with strong tillering ability, such as Clivia miniata and Bromeliaceae. The method is simple and the survival rate is high. Choose a larger tiller, remove the upper soil to expose the part connected to the mother plant, peel the tiller from the mother plant by hand or with a sharp blade (protect the roots of the tiller), wash off the soil attached to the roots, and cultivate it hydroponically.

④ Method of taking small plants from runners: Some flowers produce runners during growth, and the runners have one to many small plants. Most small plants have a small amount of fully developed roots. For example, Chlorophytum comosum and Vriesea both have this characteristic. Using this characteristic of flowers, taking formed small plants for hydroponics is very simple and convenient.

For hydroponic flowers, it is advisable to choose Monstera deliciosa, Clivia miniata, Epipremnum aureum, Tillandsia, Aglaonema modestum, Tradescantia spathacea, Dracaena sanderiana, Chlorophytum comosum, and bulb flowers such as Tulipa, Lilium, Hyacinthus, Hippeastrum, and Gladiolus.

Strategies for the difficult points of summer care of hydroponic flowers

1. Where are the difficult points of hydroponic flowers getting through summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers use non-solid media (water or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution) to cultivate ornamental plants. At present, household hydroponic flowers are mostly static water cultivation, with dissolved oxygen below 1 mg/l, and the flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism is vigorous, microorganisms multiply in large numbers, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and water quality deteriorates, forming many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers. It may cause root rot, wilting branches and leaves, and even kill the entire flower. Therefore, in summer, in addition to preventing severe heat and high temperatures, increasing the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring that hydroponic flowers safely pass through summer.

Water-grown Arrhenatherum elatius var. bulbosum

2. How to increase the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution?

Answer: There are many ways to increase dissolved oxygen, summarized into two categories: chemical methods and physical methods. The following are several easy-to-operate and effective methods.

1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution

Replacing the nutrient solution is the simplest method to increase dissolved oxygen. According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70%-90% compared with the original solution, and can promptly improve the physiological oxygen deficiency of flowers.

For flowers that have already grown water roots, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 3-5 days, and at most no more than 7 days. When replacing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large. Too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorder in the flower root system.

When changing the liquid, patiently rinse the root system with clean water, remove withered roots and rotten roots, and shorten aged roots to promote new roots.

If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid, or mosquito egg masses or mosquito larvae breed, new nutrient solution should be replaced immediately.

2. Vibration for oxygen enrichment

For hydroponic flowers in relatively small vessels, as long as the root system is clear and undamaged and the nutrient solution is transparent, the vibration method can be used to increase oxygen. The operation method is to fix the flower with one hand and hold the vessel with the other hand, gently shake more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.

For hydroponic flowers with turbid nutrient solution and poor root development, the vibration oxygen enrichment method is not suitable, and the nutrient solution must be completely replaced.

3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers

According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/l, while in static water it is only 1 mg/l. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers was designed and made according to this principle. The entire frame is a flower cultivation vessel, with a micro circulation pump installed inside. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipeline. When working, the nutrient solution circulates in the pipeline, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, the root system maintains a certain liquid level. Cultivation with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly letting hydroponic flowers soak in an “oxygen bar”, and their growth is obviously better than static hydroponics.

The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers is generally cleaned and has its liquid changed once every 30-35 days.

4. Aerate the vessel

If you are growing hydroponic flowers and also have a tank of ornamental fish nearby, you can use the spare air outlet tube of the fish tank's air pump, connect a rubber tube, and put an air stone into the vessel of the static hydroponic flowers to aerate it (the airflow should not be too strong, so as not to splash the nutrient solution out). Using the flow of air to increase oxygen also gives quite good results.

III. What position is suitable for placing hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: The flowers chosen for hydroponics are mostly shade-tolerant foliage plants and plants grown for both flowers and leaves. Such as arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), white-striped evergreen (Aglaonema), calla lily (Zantedeschia), anthurium (Anthurium), bromeliads, etc. These flowers like warmth and humidity, are somewhat shade-tolerant, and dislike high temperatures and dry heat. "Hydroponics" only changes the cultivation form; it cannot change their growth habits or the environmental factors they require. In summer, it is best to place hydroponic flowers in an environment with bright light, slightly higher humidity, cooler temperatures, and good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but do not keep them too shaded either, otherwise photosynthesis will be blocked, growth will weaken, stem nodes will elongate, and leaves will become thinner. This causes the leaves of flowers with colored patches and variegated patterns to lose their luster.

IV. Can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?

Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly facing the air outlet of the air conditioner. Too fast an air speed will damage the branches and leaves, causing leaves to curl in mild cases and scorched edges and withering in severe cases. You should also take into account that flowers require a higher temperature during the day than at night. If the air conditioner is turned off at night and the ambient temperature is higher than the daytime temperature when the air conditioner is on, this is unfavorable for the growth of hydroponic flowers.

When the air conditioner is on, place a basin of clean water beside the flowers or spray the leaves to increase ambient humidity, and place the flowers farther from the air outlet of the air conditioner; if the temperature difference between day and night is not great, there will be no problem.

V. What should be done if hydroponic flowers develop root rot?

Answer: As the temperature continues to rise, the water temperature also rises, microorganisms multiply faster, dissolved oxygen decreases, and water quality deteriorates. Improperly adding nutrient solution so that the dissolved concentration becomes too high can also cause root rot in hydroponic flowers, especially in the Liliaceae plants cordyline (Cordyline fruticosa), dragon tree (Dracaena draco, fine-leaf thousand-year tree), and five-colored thousand-year tree.

The following methods can help rotted-root flowers recover their growth:

① Remove all the rotted roots. If the stem has already been infected, also use a sharp knife to cut off the infected part.

② Soak the trimmed flowers in a 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10 to 20 minutes to sterilize them.

③ Take out the soaked flowers and rinse them under running water.

④ Put the washed flowers back into the original vessel and grow them in clean water (the vessel should be washed clean).

⑤ Change the water once every 1 to 2 days, changing only to clean water without adding nutrient solution. If the water is clear, the number of water changes can be reduced. After 10 to 15 days of care, new roots can sprout.

⑥ While the new roots are first sprouting, still grow them in clean water. Once the temperature stabilizes at 18 to 25°C, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

VI. What should be done if algae grow in the nutrient solution?

Answer: Algae growing in the nutrient solution is a common phenomenon during the cultivation of hydroponic flowers. Especially in summer, when the temperature is high, the vessel is highly transparent, the environment is bright, or the time between replacing the nutrient solution is too long, algae will proliferate in large amounts. Algae compete with the flowers for oxygen, and their secretions pollute the solution, lowering the quality of the nutrient solution. Algae attached to the flower roots hinder root respiration and interfere with the normal physiological activities of the flowers, causing great harm.

Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, decisively pour out the contaminated solution, thoroughly wash the vessel, brush off the algae attached to the roots, and replace it with new nutrient solution.

At present, scientists in our country are researching a kind of "algae-eating insect" that can filter-feed on algae and is called a natural "nemesis" of algae damage. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, putting a small amount of "algae-eating insects" into the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can prevent algae from growing.

Algae reproduction depends on relatively good light. Using a baffle or old newspaper to cover the vessel of hydroponic flowers and avoid direct strong light will relatively reduce the chance of algae growing.

VII. What fertilizer should be used for hydroponic flowers? How should fertilizer be applied in summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special cultivation form, a cultivation method belonging to soilless culture. The flower roots are anchored in water (or a dedicated plant nutrient solution), so it is also called nutrient solution culture.

Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with plant nutrient solution matched to them. However, different flowers require different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If you are growing five or six bottles or even a dozen bottles of hydroponic flowers at the same time, and the varieties are all different, it is unrealistic to buy a bottle of matched plant nutrient solution for each kind of flower. For simplicity, you can choose to use a general-purpose plant nutrient solution.

General-purpose plant nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including macronutrients and micronutrients). The proportions of the various elements are balanced, the inorganic salts are in ionic form, and the scope of application is wide. They are suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages, are non-toxic and harmless, and their pH value and ion concentration are favorable for nutrient absorption.

There are many kinds of plant nutrient solutions sold on the market, with good and bad mixed together. It is best to go to a specialized hydroponic flower shop and choose products from manufacturers with a good reputation.

There are differing views on whether to use nutrient solution culture in summer or only clean water cultivation. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures and grow vigorously, use nutrient solution culture; for flowers with fine roots that are in a semi-dormant or dormant state at temperatures around 30°C, use only clean water cultivation. For example, calla lily (Zantedeschia), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), mini monstera (Monstera), red gem (Philodendron), and Philodendron species are better cultivated with nutrient solution to maintain their growth advantage and enhance their ornamental quality. For coleus (Coleus), bamboo begonia (Begonia coccinea), bromeliads, and other flowers, a bottle of clean water is enough for them to pass the summer safely.

When mixing nutrient solution, strictly follow the proportions indicated in the instructions, and do not arbitrarily increase the concentration. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers sprouting under hydroponic conditions has changed, being looser and with larger cells than under soil cultivation. The cell walls become thinner, and they directly absorb water, nutrients, and oxygen from the nutrient solution, making them extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution; too high a concentration is harmful to the flowers. As long as the concentration of macronutrients is not lower than the level of 1 micromole per liter, a lower concentration is beneficial to flower growth.

In summer, it is advisable to replace the nutrient solution once every 5 days.

VIII. Can soil-cultivated flowers be changed to hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Changing soil-cultivated flowers to hydroponic flowers is most suitable in spring and autumn, when the temperature is around 15 to 25°C, which is suitable for flower growth and makes it easy for them to adapt to the changed cultivation environment. To change the cultivation form of flowers in summer, the following factors should be considered: ① Choose varieties more closely related to wetland plants. ② Choose flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at temperatures around 30°C. Experiments have shown that Araceae plants such as arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), mini monstera (Monstera), red gem Philodendron, green giant (Philodendron), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), and some Bromeliaceae flowers have a relatively high survival rate when changed from soil cultivation to hydroponics in summer. They adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, their roots rarely rot, and after 15 to 20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from the old roots, but water roots can also sprout from the root stem ends.

When changing from soil cultivation to hydroponics, the soil around the flower roots must be cleaned off completely. Rinse repeatedly, protecting the roots from damage or minimizing it, and use a larger-capacity vessel for cultivation. Change the water once a day, and after five days, change the water once every 2 to 3 days. When the water roots grow to 5 cm long, cultivate them with a low-concentration plant nutrient solution.

Hydroponic method for lucky bamboo

Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as wan shou zhu, native to Brazil and West Africa.

Characteristics

Evergreen shrub. The plant shape is slender and upright, without branching. Leaves are long lanceolate, deep green, with sheath-like petioles. Common types include golden-edged lucky bamboo, whose leaves have yellow longitudinal stripes. Silver-edged lucky bamboo, also known as silver-striped bamboo dracaena, is a small plant with silver-white longitudinal stripes along the leaf edges.

Habits

Likes high temperatures and high humidity, and the overwintering temperature should be kept above 10°C. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, otherwise it will cause leaf scorch.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: When the air is too dry, the leaves will scorch, so during the growing period, water should often be sprayed on the leaves.

2: It is suitable for sufficient scattered light. When light is insufficient, the color of striped varieties will fade.

Hydroponic method for anthurium

Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as Anthurium andraeanum and lampstand flower

Characteristics

Perennial evergreen herb. Internodes are short, and leaves grow out from the base of the plant. Leaves are round-cordate or ovate, dark green. Flower stalks grow out from the leaf axils. The spathe is upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet, and the spadix is yellow and extends straight.

Habits

Likes high temperatures, high humidity, and a semi-shaded environment, and avoids direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and it must be kept above 10°C for overwintering.

Propagation

Division, tissue culture.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Not cold-tolerant, so it needs heating and warmth in winter.

2: Likes relatively high air humidity and a semi-shaded environment.

Methods for obtaining hydroponic material

Use the potted root-washing method

Hydroponic method for rhododendron

The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with an artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used a solid substrate for soilless cultivation of rhododendron and obtained very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea. Under soilless cultivation, the crown structure was compact, the number of flowers was large, the flower diameter was large, and there were few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality, but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor, making it a cultivation method worthy of vigorous promotion.

1. Preparation of the substrate

Rhododendron roots are very fine, so the substrate is required to be loose to facilitate aeration and drainage. Mix 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder in proportion. After mixing the substrate, sterilize it with a 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix it evenly into the substrate, and cover it with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse it repeatedly with clean water, and after drying, mix it evenly with a 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, then cover it with plastic film for one month, after which it can be used for potting.

2. Preparation of the nutrient solution

Rhododendron has relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing period, apply thin fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH value at around 5, and spraying a low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.

Preparation of macronutrients: add 2 g of agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g of magnesium sulfate to 1 liter of water as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: add 20 g of disodium EDTA, 15 g of ferrous sulfate, 4 g of manganese sulfate, 6 g of boric acid, 0.2 g of zinc sulfate, 0.1 g of copper sulfate, and 0.2 g of ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the stock solution. When using, add 1 mL of trace element stock solution to 1 liter of standard solution to make the complete element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: add 1 g of urea, 1 g of monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g of boric acid, and 0.1 g of V.B1 to 1 liter of water.

3. Water and fertilizer management

Because the substrate has good drainage and aeration but poor water retention, the amount of watering is generally a bit more than for soil cultivation, just enough to keep the substrate moist. At this time, it is exactly the period of bud formation and leaf bud sprouting, so the fertilizer requirement is relatively large; water with complete nutrient solution about once every 10 days. From March until the flower buds open, spray foliar fertilizer about once every 15 days. After flowering, the water requirement is large; besides watering every day, sprinkle water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, the fertilizer requirement is also large, so it can be changed to watering with nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote strong new branches and benefit flower bud differentiation. After the dog days begin, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and sprinkle water on the leaves; the fertilizer amount can be reduced to watering with nutrient solution about once every 20 days. After the autumn cools, gradually increase the amount of fertilizer, apply complete nutrient solution about once every half month, and spray foliar fertilizer 1-2 times to promote healthy and strong growth of flower buds. After winter begins, the physiological activity of rhododendron is weak, so it is not suitable to apply fertilizer; just water appropriately depending on how dry or wet the substrate is. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.

Hydroponic method for broadleaf lady palm

Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places.

Characteristics

Evergreen clumping shrub. The stem is cylindrical, unbranched, with nodes like bamboo, and has brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, like palm fiber. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, leathery, deep green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4~10 lobes. Dioecious.

Habits

Likes a warm, shady, humid, and well-ventilated environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20~30°C, and in winter it should be kept above 4°C. It can tolerate short periods of low temperature around 0°C.

Propagation

Generally carried out by division combined with repotting. Choose a large, dense clump of plants. First take the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, cut as few roots as possible, and keep a certain plant shape for each divided plant. Then repot them, water thoroughly, place them in a semi-shaded and humid place, and frequently spray water on the leaves. After they resume growth, they can be transferred to normal care.

For sowing, after the seeds mature in autumn, sow them in pots immediately after harvesting, move them into a greenhouse in winter, and they will sprout in the spring of the following year.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Shade-tolerant, but when light is too weak, yellow leaves easily appear, and when ventilation is poor, parasitic pests breed.

2: During the growing period, water should frequently be sprayed on the leaves.

Methods for obtaining hydroponic material

Potted root-washing is suitable. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard in texture and not easy to rot after hydroponics, but new roots sprout relatively slowly, needing as long as one and a half months.

Hydroponic method for purple velvet plant

Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.

Characteristics

Purple velvet plant is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick, many-branched stems. Leaves are opposite, long ovate. The leaf margins have relatively coarse double serrations. It is named for its stems and leaves being densely covered with fine purple-red hairs like velvet. The purple velvet plant is bright, beautiful, and elegant in color, making it an excellent flower type for indoor cultivation.

Habits

Purple velvet plant likes sufficient sunlight, but during high temperatures in summer and autumn, it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment. Direct sunlight will cause leaf scorch due to sunburn, but when too shaded, the plant will fade and turn green. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 10°C.

Propagation

Purple velvet plant is propagated by cuttings. During growth, choose thick and strong branches, cut 10 cm long shoot tips as cuttings, and after cutting, place them in a shaded and humid place; they can root in 2~3 weeks. After the cuttings grow, pinch them in time to promote the sprouting of side branches.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Branches can be cut and inserted into water, and water roots can grow in just over 10 days. But at high temperatures in summer, the roots easily rot.

2: Purple velvet plant grows rapidly. When the branches grow to an appropriate height, pinch them in time to promote the sprouting of new shoots.

Hydroponic method for parlor palm

Palmae, Chamaedorea genus, also known as dwarf coconut, etc., native to Mexico and Venezuela.

Characteristics

Evergreen small tree, dwarf in size. The stem is slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring patterns. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, pinnately compound, with 20~40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green, and glossy.

Habits

Likes a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20~30°C. At 13°C it enters dormancy, and the minimum overwintering temperature in winter is 3°C.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow and withered, but when too shaded, the leaf color will also fade.

2: Parlor palm is most beautiful at a plant shape of 30~50 cm. When the plant is too tall, the lower part becomes bare and reduces its ornamental value, so when cultivating it, small plants can be grown below.

Obtaining hydroponic material

Use the potted root-washing method. After washing with water, new roots can grow in just a few days.

Hydroponic method for cactus ball

We know that cactus balls are favored by people for their unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance, but because cactus balls use traditional cultivation methods, they have problems such as being dirty and difficult to manage. More people kill their beloved plants because they cannot manage fertilizer and water well. Now the cultivation of cactus balls has entered a new stage: hydroponics.

1: Selecting the mother plant

First we should choose cactus balls with strong, healthy bodies. The key is to choose plants whose lower root-stem part protrudes downward. Cactus balls grafted and cultivated with triangular sword are easier to hydroponically grow.

2: Treatment

After choosing the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots under the ball body, and require the cut to be flat. Then rinse off the soil attached to the root-stem part with clean water, and dry it in a dry place for 3 days so that the cut is completely dry.

3: Hydroponics

Prepare a glass bottle of suitable size, or process a mineral water bottle. Fix the selected and treated cactus ball at the bottle mouth with floral foam or foam, add nutrient solution below, and the height of the nutrient solution should just touch the root-stem part. In production, we recommend making a glass water trough 60-100 cm long and 20 cm wide (a transparent vessel makes it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root-stem part). Prepare a children's foam puzzle board or a white construction foam board, and use a sharp knife to dig several small triangular holes in the board (for fixing the golden ball, you can cut off the mouth of a waste purified water bottle and use it upside down; note: cut off the bottle mouth so that the roots of the golden ball can protrude from the cut bottle mouth, then place it in a flat-bodied container filled with nutrient solution). Insert the triangular sword into the triangular holes; at this time, the roots of all triangular swords just touch the liquid surface.

4. Post-hydroponic treatment

Buy two magnets with a diameter of 6-10 cm and put them into the vessel, in order to magnetize the nutrient solution and thereby speed up the emergence of water roots. (You can also buy from the market a small wall-suction submersible pump specially used for ecological fish tanks, attach it to the inner wall of the nutrient solution, and switch on the power to realize oxygen-carrying circulation through the flow of the nutrient solution.)

5: Key points for hydroponic care

Place the well-planted cactus ball in an environment with relatively strong scattered light, keep the temperature above 20°C, and generally water roots will emerge in 3-7 days. After water roots appear, immediately replace the nutrient solution.

Note:

During the induction process of cactus balls, it is strictly forbidden to spray water on the ball body, as it easily causes the ball body to rot and die.

What should be noted when hydroponically growing clivia at home

Hydroponic clivia is a hygienic and convenient cultivation method. When cultivating at home, note the following:

① Container selection. The bottom of the cultivation container should have no holes, and it is best to choose a transparent one, so that you can view the leaves, flowers, and also the root system. You can use a glass bottle; you can also use a non-toxic plastic bottle or ceramic container. The size of the container depends on the size of the plant, and the diameter should not be too large.

② The cultivation solution. It can be nutrient solution or clean water, but when cultivating in clean water, attention must be paid to foliar fertilization to supply the nutrients needed for clivia growth.

③ Changing the solution. Hydroponic clivia needs regular solution changes. The number of solution changes depends on the weather. When the temperature is relatively low, it can be changed about once a month; when the temperature is relatively high, it can be changed once every 10 days. When changing the solution, be careful to wash the cultivation container clean.

How to scientifically grow hippeastrum hydroponically

In early winter, choose one or several large hippeastrum bulbs that have bloomed or not yet bloomed, cut off all roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal the white and green parts, and soak them in clean water. After about 48 hours, take the bulbs out, wash off the mushy material at the cuts with clean water, dry them in the shade, and put them into a flower container. The flower container can be a bowl, basin, or narcissus pot, etc. Put in washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing mountain stones, etc., then place the treated hippeastrum bulbs on top. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if using tap water, it must have been left standing for several days). The depth of the water should be enough to cover the small stones and other padding materials, or about 1 cm below the upper rim of the flower container. Finally, place it in a place indoors with sufficient light. Keep the room temperature at about 10°C, and in about 7~10 days it will begin to grow leaves and roots. The water in the pot should always be kept at the original water level line. When the leaves grow to 2~3 cm, fertilizer needs to be replenished in time. Every 10~20 days, when adding water, appropriately add a 1% urea solution or a 0.03% monopotassium phosphate solution or other compound fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulbs with roots into flower pots for routine care. In this way, bulbs treated hydroponically will bloom slightly later than other hippeastrum grown conventionally in pots, just in time for the summer flowering period when flowers are scarce.

Technical Management of Hydroponics

1. What is hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics, also known as soilless culture or nutrient solution culture, is an agricultural production technique that uses nutrient solutions and supporting facilities instead of soil to grow crops. Most hydroponic plants also use inert solid substrates such as sand, gravel, peat, and perlite to fix the plants and increase air content, so it is also called sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, etc.
Since humans began cultivating crops, crops have been grown in soil, so the English word for agriculture is "Agriculture," a combination of Agr (soil) and Culture (cultivation). In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used 3 different kinds of water - rainwater, river water, and garden soil leachate - to grow mint. The result was that the mint grown in garden soil leachate grew fastest, leading to the conclusion that "plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil." Unfortunately, due to technical limitations at the time, Woodward did not conduct further research. It was not until 1859-1865 that German scientists Sachs and Knop first conducted precise experiments in soilless culture, successfully growing plants with an artificial nutrient solution made from inorganic salts. They called this method hydroponics, and Sachs and Knop are therefore recognized as the founders of soilless culture technology.

◆2. What are hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are flowers grown using soilless culture techniques. Hydroponic flowers are further divided into hydroponic flowers with media and hydroponic flowers without media. Hydroponics with media refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc. mentioned earlier; hydroponic flowers without media are further divided into direct hydroponic flowers, floating hydroponic flowers, planting basket hydroponic flowers, misting hydroponic flowers, drip irrigation under nutrient film, and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its advantages and disadvantages, but if measured only by aesthetics, durability, and suitability for home cultivation, direct hydroponics is the most stylish, beautiful, and simple, so hydroponic plants currently sold on the market are generally in the direct hydroponic form.

◆3. Why is the nutrient solution the key to successful hydroponic flower cultivation?
Answer: We all know that in a greenhouse environment, when inert substrates are used as media, soilless culture is already a very simple and mature technology, because computers control humidity, temperature, light intensity, nutrient solution injection time, etc. in real time, and specialized technicians use pH meters, conductivity meters, etc. to test the pH of the nutrient solution and the balance of various elements in real time. However, in a home environment, these conditions are very difficult to achieve. First, if hydroponic flowers placed in the home still use substrate cultivation, then there is no aesthetic difference from soil cultivation, so home hydroponic flowers should be soilless culture without media. Without media, plants are very prone to root rot and odor; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants to avoid root rot, odor, and strange smells while growing normally even under oxygen deficiency. In addition, the hygiene needs of the home require that the nutrient solution should not easily breed mosquitoes and insects and must be non-toxic. Furthermore, household lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, which requires that the nutrient solution can lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis so that plants can grow well in office and home environments. Moreover, it is impossible to require every user to have specialized botanical knowledge like a botany expert, so the nutrient solution must also be convenient to use, easy to operate, and learnable by anyone at once. Therefore, hydroponic flowers suitable for home cultivation have higher technical requirements for the nutrient solution.
Since humans mastered soilless culture technology, scientists have successfully researched no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but formulas that simultaneously meet the above requirements are very rare; moreover, due to commercial interests, major flower companies treat their nutrient solution technology as their top secret, so nutrient solution formulas obtainable from public materials are only theoretical or experimental formulas, which can only serve as reference material and cannot be used for production activities. In fact, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home environments can be known with just one try. You only need to see whether the plants on display are growing vigorously and whether water roots are growing, because as the saying goes: "Practice is the sole criterion for testing truth!"

◆4. How can hydroponic flowers safely overwinter?
Answer: Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and tissues will suffer necrosis below 0 degrees Celsius. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not fall below 5 degrees Celsius. If extreme low-temperature weather occurs for a few days, it can be solved by placing a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; in the north, because most indoors have heating, safe overwintering of hydroponic flowers can also be achieved.

◆5. Can hydroponic flowers only cultivate certain specific flowers?
Answer: In modern greenhouses, generally speaking, all common popular flowers can be hydroponically cultivated. However, in home environments, because certain specific conditions cannot be met, currently only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be cultivated. In homes with balconies, there are more suitable varieties.

◆6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in hydroponic flowers? How should water changes and regular feeding be handled?
Answer: Because the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Every one of our specialty stores has a sample of fish raised in hydroponic flowers, precisely to tell customers this information.
Generally speaking, only hydroponic flowers with a volume of more than one liter are suitable for raising fish, and due to limited volume, fish species should also be selected carefully. Fish species with strong adaptability should be chosen, such as goldfish and small koi. Fish with strong aggression or destructiveness are also not suitable for raising in hydroponic flowers, because they will damage plant roots; delicate fish are also unsuitable, because even raising them in specialized aquariums is difficult to succeed, let alone in relatively poor conditions in a small vase. Water changes can be done at the same time as the normal water changes for the flowers, and feeding is the same as when we normally raise fish in a fish tank, with no difference.
Because the special substances in the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of water, which facilitates the respiration of plant roots, fish generally will not suffer from oxygen deficiency in the nutrient solution, so there is no need to install aeration equipment except on particularly hot days.

◆7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic Flower King nutrient solution is a highly concentrated liquid and must be diluted before use; when diluting, tap water can generally fully meet the requirements, and there is absolutely no need to use bottled water or purified water. If well water or river water is used, water quality testing must be conducted to understand the mineral content composition in the water. If a certain mineral content in the water exceeds the standard, the nutrient solution formula must be adjusted to facilitate normal plant growth.
During dilution, tap water can be directly used to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine in the water to evaporate, because the unique formula in Hydroponic Flower King will cause the chlorine in tap water to evaporate rapidly. However, if the water temperature and room temperature differ too much, the diluted nutrient solution should be left to stand indoors for a period of time to prevent plant roots from suffering root hair damage due to sudden temperature changes, which would cause the plants to wilt.

◆8. What is planting basket hydroponics?
Answer: Planting basket hydroponics is a hydroponic cultivation method that uses the principle of hydrotropism of plant roots. The principle of hydrotropism is that plant root tips always grow toward the direction with sufficient moisture. This is shown when a plant's topsoil lacks water; in order to protect itself, its root tips will grow toward deeper soil to absorb the water needed for plant growth and development and adapt to natural changes. At this time, root growth has a very obvious directionality; whereas plants growing in swamps or water do not lack water, so their roots grow in a more chaotic manner without obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, with the bottom not needing to directly contact the water, at a distance of about 1-2 cm, and do not water the bonsai but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week, roots will appear at the bottom of the bonsai growing toward the water. At this time, you do not need to add water; let its roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops. If you use some fast-growing plants for the experiment, the effect will be even more obvious. Similarly, you can remove a bonsai that has already grown water roots from its pot and fix the plant with a planting basket, decorate it with stones or ornaments, and it becomes a pot of planting basket hydroponic flowers. The difference is that at this time, because there is no soil, you need to replace the clean water with nutrient solution. It is just that simple.

◆9. Why do hydroponic flowers need water changes?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution will become less and less. At the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water will become more and more, so hydroponic flowers need to be given fresh nutrient solution after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers; soil-cultivated flowers need fertilization and need to change soil once a year for the same reason. Hydroponic flowers need shorter intervals between water changes during the vigorous growing spring and summer, and can have longer intervals in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

◆10. Why do hydroponic flowers sometimes become weaker and weaker or show poor growth?
Answer: It may be caused by too long an interval between solution changes, incorrect nutrient solution ratio (too dilute or too concentrated), or too weak light. If these factors are ruled out, then check whether the nutrient solution water level is too high, preventing the plant roots from breathing normally and causing oxygen deficiency; if none of these are the case, then we suggest you best go to a Hydroponic Flower King specialty store for consultation.

Exposing the Hydroponic Flower Market - Distinguishing True from False Hydroponic Flowers

Currently many companies are developing franchise stores for hydroponic flowers, causing a great commotion across the country. In particular, a company in Beijing has franchise stores that will spread throughout the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to express many opinions, but in order to safeguard the healthy development of our country's hydroponic flower industry, after witnessing everything I cannot help but voice some complaints. This is because the scams involved not only harm consumer interests but will also cast a shadow over the hydroponic industry. Currently it is the low-temperature season, plant respiration is weak, and plants can be kept in water for a period after their roots are washed and directly soaked in water. Plants with strong flooding tolerance, such as Araceae plants, can survive in water for 1-2 months, but when the weather turns hot, plant physiological respiration becomes strong, and oxygen deficiency and root rot will immediately occur. A hydroponic work that costs tens or hundreds to buy and bring home is only a fleeting flash, not only harming consumer interests but also greatly affecting the development of the hydroponic industry. Now I will use a scientific perspective to reveal the "deception tactics" involved.

1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. When winter comes, these plants slow their growth rate and their respiration weakens. In addition, Araceae plants are relatively closely related to aquatic plants and have strong flooding tolerance. After root washing and direct soaking in water, no discomfort can be seen from the plant for a while, but it is impossible for them to grow vigorously in water; they can only maintain the balance of water metabolism, while nutrient absorption and respiratory function are severely blocked. When the weather turns hot, the root system will suffer oxygen deficiency, become foul-smelling, and rot. For other plants with somewhat stronger terrestrial habits, this method simply cannot work, so this is the main reason they can currently only use Araceae plants for "deception." Their so-called induction liquid, I think it would be better and more honest to call "deception liquid." It is fundamentally impossible for plants to undergo changes in tissue structure within a few minutes.

2. Charging high franchise fees for franchise sales is itself a kind of commercial hype. If the goods were genuine and the price fair, there would be nothing to criticize. If the technology were unique, it could also dominate the market and truly have the meaning of franchising. But now this kind of franchising can be called cheating for money. First, the technology has no scientific or technological content at all; it is just washing roots and soaking in water, something even a fool can imitate at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, hydroponic technology itself is something that has developed over decades and is no longer a technology unique to any one company. Using franchising simply cannot monopolize the market; other hydroponic flower stores can likewise operate, and with better funding and more reliable technology than franchise stores. Once the franchise fee is paid, it is equivalent to being washed away. True hydroponic flowers are not suitable for long-distance transportation. In fact, what they are selling now are all products made from soil-cultivated seedlings after root washing. It might be more accurate to call them bare-root flowers.

3. Tip: Araceae plants in late autumn, winter, and early spring can also be kept in water for a period after root washing and soaking in water. Everyone might as well try it; there is simply no need for deception liquid.

I have studied hydroponics for many years and have also inspected several countries with relatively developed hydroponic technology abroad. Our country's current hydroponic market can be said to be full of charlatans of all kinds, with the fake mixed in with the genuine. However, in the end these franchise scams will still be cleared out by history and science. I remind everyone to keep their eyes sharp and not be induced by deception liquids.

How to Distinguish True from False Hydroponic Flowers

True and false hydroponic flowers are actually the difference between induced flowers and non-induced flowers. At present, many hydroponic flower operators do not understand hydroponic flowers from a scientific perspective, but proceed only from the angle of commercial hype and personal profit, passing off some conventional soil-cultivated plants as hydroponic plants for sale, fooling consumers and causing very bad social impact. After some citizens buy them at high prices, the plants die from physiological discomfort not long after being kept, seriously hindering the healthy development of the hydroponic flower industry. In response to this problem, buyers can distinguish true from false in the following aspects to avoid being cheated.

A. Distinguish true from false by root morphology: Induced hydroponic flowers usually exist in the form of fibrous adventitious roots, and unlike roots in soil, they do not have distinctions among primary roots, lateral roots, capillary roots, and root hairs, that is, they do not exist in the state of multi-order branched secondary roots. Even if there is branching, it is only a small number of branched roots based on fibrous adventitious roots. The low number of orders and simple root structure are its most obvious characteristics. In addition, for some plants that originally have radicles, after induction the number of first-order adventitious roots increases markedly, meaning the root proportion is greatly increased, and the root system is numerous and developed, resembling a beard.

B. Distinguish true from false by root color: Plant water roots formed by aquatic induction mostly have the characteristics of being white, crisp, and tender. Even for some varieties that show their natural root color, their water roots are noticeably lighter in color than land roots, such as yellowish-white, pale yellow, light brown, etc. This is related to the developed parenchyma tissue of water roots and the fact that cell walls have not undergone, or have undergone little, suberization and lignification thickening.

C. Distinguish true from false by root integrity: Roots induced by aquatic conditions begin regrowth and differentiation from primary adventitious roots, and all of this is completed in a water environment, so the root system has integrity. In contrast, some soil-cultivated plants, even if carefully washed, still always have slight damage or serious residual roots. This kind of root integrity is difficult for soil-washed seedlings to achieve.

D. Distinguish true from false by water clarity: Fake hydroponic works made from soil-washed seedlings, because the root system has not formed adaptability to water, will in an anaerobic environment undergo anaerobic respiration and release large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites, causing the water in the container to quickly become cloudy or deteriorate. Visually, it shows a turbid, unclear feeling, that is, water quality deterioration or odor, followed by root rot and eventually dead seedlings.

E. Leaf angle can also distinguish true from false: In particular, many herbaceous flowers that are extremely sensitive to ethylene show, after induction, a leaf attachment angle noticeably more flat than soil-washed seedlings from soil cultivation, that is, epinastic growth leading to an increased angle, or even drooping.

Increasing the Dissolved Oxygen Content of Hydroponic Nutrient Solutions

In addition to the requirements for environmental factors such as light, temperature, and humidity being exactly the same as soil cultivation, hydroponic flowers have management requirements for water, fertilizer, and oxygen that are worlds apart - Water: Home-cultivated hydroponic flowers should use soft water as the water source; generally tap water meeting national standards can be used. Tap water has been filtered, settled, and sterilized, is clean and hygienic, and has a pH below 7, so it can be safely used to cultivate hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, pond water, and well water are polluted to varying degrees, are seriously eutrophic, and various ions may differ greatly. If one ion content exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage plants or cause poisoning and death, so they are not suitable as water sources for hydroponic flowers. Fertilizer: Home-cultivated hydroponic flowers must use low-concentration specialty nutrient solutions based mainly on nitrate nitrogen fertilizer. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all nutrient elements necessary for flower growth, with balanced proportions of various elements. Inorganic salts are in ionic form and are suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and their various growth and development stages. They are also non-toxic, harmless, and have appropriate pH, which is beneficial for nutrient absorption. It is not advisable to crush soil fertilizer or granular chemical fertilizer and use it for hydroponic flowers. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on flowers, but long-term application will inevitably hinder normal physiological metabolism. It is even more unacceptable to use organic fertilizer as a fertilizer source for hydroponic flowers. Diluted urine can be used for foliar spraying, but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: In home-cultivated hydroponic flowers, the water (nutrient solution) is in a static state, and dissolved oxygen is below /ppm/L. Flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel, and their roots are commonly seen growing in reverse, extending toward the liquid surface in search of more oxygen for respiration. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of hydroponic nutrient solutions is very necessary for the normal growth of flowers, especially in summer. There are several simple and easy methods to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of nutrient solution changes. 2. Oxygenate by vibration: fix the flower plant with one hand and gently shake the vessel with the other hand more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a miniature submersible pump or aeration pump (both standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution. Plant roots can obtain sufficient oxygen in such an environment, respiration is very vigorous, and the flowers are prompted to grow robustly.

Identifying Fake Hydroponic Flower Technology at a Glance

Hydroponic flowers, with flowers and fish kept together and a combination of movement and stillness, are the first impression they give intuitively. The earlier concept in China first sprouted around the turn of the 21st century (although some people earlier also grew some easily water-cultivated plants such as certain Araceae plants and lucky bamboo in water, this concept does not belong to the currently popular "hydroponic flowers" concept!). It rose in 2003, and many enterprises and institutions with market vision successively devoted themselves to preliminary research and planning work in this industry. In addition, with the broadcast of "Hydroponic Flowers" on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it flourished from 2004 to 2005. Hydroponic flowers can be said to have bloomed everywhere in China, with some providing technical learning and training, some producing at bases, and some opening franchise flower shops. Many fake hydroponic flower companies, enterprises, and individuals, stimulated by profit, put on shows in the market. On the one hand, they added fuel to the hype of the domestic hydroponic flower market concept, letting many citizens understand and recognize this new concept and product; on the other hand, many investors and operators became victims of this round of market trends. As for 2006, the great wave washed away the sand. Those with their own technical core and production capacity, and with relatively strong economic strength and operational ability, could still survive in such a chaotic market trend, and those who could survive were very few. However, hydroponic flowers, as a fashionable flower product, represent a new trend and new current in the development of the flower industry. Driven by economic interests in the market economy, there are still a small number of speculators existing in the market!

The author has been in this industry for three or four years and is relatively familiar with it. In view of the uneven quality of the current hydroponic flower market, this article provides a systematic analysis and summary, all to give the broad citizens who love hydroponic flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the hydroponic flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding for everyone's reference:

2. What are true hydroponic flowers?

From a sensory point of view, using glass vases of various shapes, with plants and flowers grown on top (currently, the variety scope of hydroponic technology has been expanded to include other woody plants, vines, succulents, and other plants), and a few cute small fish raised below, these are hydroponic flowers (plants)! But from a technical level, true hydroponic flowers refer to those cultivated through various biological, physical, computer, and other technical means so that the physiological characteristics of their root systems change, possessing water roots with plant aerenchyma tissue, and being able to adapt to long-term aquatic cultivation only then can they become true hydroponic flowers (plants)!

3. How to identify true hydroponic flowers?

Judging from sensory perception:
Report on the Current Status of Hydroponic Flower Technology 1. Introduction:
For a successful true hydroponic plant, the plant root system after induction and domestication should have white, elegant roots with many fibrous roots, very obviously different from soil-cultivated plants. The root systems of soil-cultivated plants are mostly relatively dark black in color! (Except for a small number of plants whose root systems have unique colors, such as red-flowered loropetalum, which after induction is deep red from its root system to its branches and stem segments! There are also some plants whose roots, after soil removal, are nearly white in color!)

In addition, if the plant's growth condition is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, it shows that it was only just planted in the bottle not long ago and placed there to deceive users! Even if it has undergone induction, it still cannot be sold as merchandise!

Judging from a technical perspective:

1) Does it possess a professional technical level?

If, as some merchants say, only so-called "induction liquid," "domestication liquid," or "nutrient solution" is needed, and the plant is soaked in water for a few days or a few hours, with some even saying that hydroponic flowers can be achieved in just a few tens of minutes or a few minutes, this claim can only fool those who do not understand biotechnology. Anyone who understands biological principles knows that if plant roots are severely oxygen-deficient in water, the roots will soon undergo anaerobic respiration, thereby fermenting and rotting. As a result, large amounts of fermentation products accumulate in the bottle, mosquitoes breed, insects grow, the water becomes turbid and unclean, and the plant soon dies!
Only by truly achieving the induction of plant water roots, forming aerenchyma tissue, and being able to adapt well to low-oxygen conditions in water can a hydroponic plant truly deserve to be called a hydroponic flower. The cultivation of water roots is also not something that nutrient solution alone can fully accomplish and realize. It requires a combination of biological, physical, computer, and other methods and means, and after a relatively long period of cultivation, only after fully adapting to the water environment can it become a professional true hydroponic flower!

2) Does it have a relatively strong level and ability in artistic combination?

Hydroponic flowers belong to mid-to-high-end consumption. Their ornamental value lies in: artistically composed arrangements, with each product depending on its artistic glass bottle container, beautiful plant shape, white and elegant roots, and the perfect combination and arrangement of fish, water, grass, and other ornaments in the bottle! Whether it is a professional hydroponic flower work, aside from natural sensory appeal, a relatively strong artistic combination is not something an ordinary beginner can put together! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether the manufacturer possesses such aesthetic standards!

3) Does it have the facility conditions and fixed supply channels for producing hydroponic flowers?

Whether it has the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers can also show whether the merchant has the ability for professional hydroponic flower production. If there are neither fixed production facilities nor powerful and branded producers as supply sources, then such hydroponic flower providers are very likely just "hydroponic flowers" made by washing the roots of soil-cultivated plants!

Checking from the varieties:

The hydroponic flower varieties that a truly professional hydroponic flower producer can produce are not limited to plants such as those in Araceae and Crassulaceae, such as Alocasia, Philodendron, lucky bamboo, Monstera, and Rohdea, which are themselves easy to grow in water. These plant varieties are naturally near-water and water-loving, and ordinary methods can achieve cultivation in water. Professional producers should be able to hydroponically cultivate all kinds of woody plants and all kinds of water-fearing plants, such as sago palm, cactus, money tree, Polyscias, and even Taxus, osmanthus, fruit trees, etc. If the plant varieties a merchant can provide are single and limited, it must not be a professional hydroponic flower manufacturer!

Checking from time:

Time is the ultimate and only criterion for testing hydroponic flowers. If they cannot adapt to aquatic cultivation for a long time and are only a fleeting flash, dying within a few days, many of these are hydroponic flowers that speculators produce within a few hours by washing away soil-cultivated roots, and within a few days the flowers bloom and fade! Therefore, at present, for those operators who cannot provide a product shelf life, most are speculators. If a merchant cannot provide a product shelf life, it is recommended not to buy, so as to avoid being cheated!
4. How to identify a truly professional hydroponic flower producer?

Driven by profit, many market speculators use various "formal" means in publicity and information transmission channels to muddle through and fool the broad consumers and investors. In order to leave no foothold for so-called high-tech shell companies that rent a few offices in national universities (such as Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, etc.), research institutes (such as the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Chinese Academy of Forestry, a certain research center, etc.), institutions under the Ministry of Agriculture (such as the veteran cadre bureau of the Ministry of Agriculture, a certain technical center of the Ministry of Agriculture), or office buildings, and then start advertising to rake in money, as well as "guerrilla" technology transfer companies that shoot one shot and move to another place. It also deprives malicious sellers who transfer immature so-called "hydroponic flower technology" at low prices of a market for deception, and more importantly, enables you to learn these truly genuine technologies.

The author solemnly reminds: No matter where in the country or on what media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must keep your eyes sharp, be more mindful, look at several more companies, and compare more; you must carefully compare unit scale, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality, and after-sales service, {{Remember: you must look at their flower shop products, and then ask for the phone numbers of their franchisees, and try as much as possible to visit the franchisees to confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide this to you, so then you must think twice before acting. This is the most direct and final method of judgment. Of course, in addition, those "high-level" companies will also use methods like "medical shills," "academic shills," "real estate shills," and "wine shills," fooling you with the skill of "master trickster" Zhao Benshan, making it impossible to guard against!}}; you must carefully examine whether the technology is genuine, the training ability, and the relevant certificates; you must absolutely not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies, bringing unnecessary losses to your finances and spirit. Besides distinguishing whether something is a true hydroponic flower through product channels, in fact everyone only needs to be a bit more mindful to see through many speculators one by one. The following experiences and several types

How to Apply Fertilizer to Hydroponic Flowers Through the Roots

Static hydroponic flowers are a cultivation method under root oxygen-deficient conditions, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. In order to improve flower quality, foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves.

A fine-hole spray bottle should be used, and efforts should be made not to let the fertilizer solution run off. The back of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, and twice during the growth period, which can make hydroponic flowers flourish with lush branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for foliage viewing and also for flower appreciation, such as calla lily, four-season begonia, bamboo joint begonia, and calla, during the bud stage a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week until the flowers open.

Maintenance Measures for the Southern Plant Date Palm

Part One: "Compilation of Southern Plants"

Frangipani

Frangipani, its flowers really resemble eggs, milky white on the outside and bright yellow in the center, just like egg white and yolk, and they look really cute. Its branches are thick and fleshy. The leaves are also large, and the flowers and leaves cluster at the top of the branches. Frangipani blooms brilliantly in summer, giving people a feeling of purity and elegant temperament, and is very suitable for people to admire carefully. After the leaves fall, the bare trunk curves naturally, and its shape is very beautiful. It is very suitable for planting in courtyards and lawns. Frangipani likes high temperature and high humidity, sufficient sunlight, and well-drained environments. It is naturally robust and can tolerate drought, but it fears cold and waterlogging. It likes to grow in acidic soil, but is also resistant to alkalinity. Cultivation is best with deep, fertile, well-aerated, organic-rich acidic sandy loam. Propagation uses the cutting method. When planting frangipani, attention should also be paid to pest and disease control. For example, if brown small spots appear on the leaves or even the leaves become dark black, that is because of frangipani angular leaf spot, and at this time you should pay attention to taking measures. Of course, there may also be other diseases, so frangipani needs your care and attention. In fact, besides white, frangipani also has red and yellow types, all of which can extract essential oils for making high-grade cosmetics, soap, and food additives, with relatively high prices and great commercial development potential; the fresh flowers can also be dried in the sun for brewing tea, commonly known as frangipani tea, which has the effect of treating heat dysentery and moistening the lungs and detoxifying. The frangipani tree has a beautiful shape, with many branches on the stem, strange and varied, in countless postures; the leaves resemble loquat leaves, and after they fall in winter, semicircular leaf scars remain on the branches, quite like deer antlers decorated with beautiful spots. It can be called the first-choice small tree for tropical landscaping, courtyard arrangement, and potted ornament. The bark is thin and grayish-green, rich in toxic white sap, which can be used externally to treat scabies, redness and swelling, and other symptoms. The wood is white, light, and soft, and can be made into musical instruments, tableware, or furniture. Frangipani flower language: breeding hope, revival, new life, as simple and ordinary as life, so it can always be so close to people, losing distance.

Yulan Magnolia

Yulan magnolia is a tall deciduous tree, with dark gray bark, rough and cracked; branchlets slightly stout, grayish-brown; winter buds and pedicels densely covered with pale grayish-yellow long silky hairs. Leaves papery, obovate, broadly obovate, or obovate-elliptic, with the base of vigorous shoots having elliptic leaves. Yulan magnolia flowers are very much like lotus flowers. When in full bloom, the petals spread in all directions, making the courtyard appear in patches of green and white, with dazzling white light, and they have high ornamental value; together with waves of delicate fragrance that refresh the heart, they are truly an ideal flower type for beautifying courtyards. Yulan magnolia likes light and is relatively cold-tolerant, and can overwinter in the open field. It loves dryness and avoids low humidity; planting sites with waterlogging easily cause root rot. It likes fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic sandy soil, and can also grow in weakly alkaline soil. In the warmer south, it can bloom from December to January of the following year. Yulan magnolia has relatively strong resistance to harmful gases. If this flower is planted in factories polluted by sulfur dioxide and chlorine gas, it has a certain resistance and sulfur-absorbing capacity. Under artificial fumigation with sulfur dioxide, 1 kg of dry leaves can absorb more than 1.6 grams of sulfur. Therefore, Yulan magnolia is a very good pollution-resistant landscaping tree species for areas with atmospheric pollution. Yulan magnolia likes light; young trees are relatively shade-tolerant and not tolerant of strong light or west-facing sun. Too strong light or west-facing sun can easily cause sunburn to the trees. Yulan magnolia likes fertilizer. In addition to applying base fertilizer at planting, it should be fertilized every year thereafter. Sufficient fertilizer can make the plant grow vigorously, with jade-green, thick leaves, not only producing many buds, but also large flowers, a long flowering period, and rich fragrance. Yulan magnolia is a tree species with relatively strong disease resistance. The main diseases include anthracnose, chlorosis, and leaf sunburn. Besides ornamental value, Yulan magnolia also has medicinal and edible value. Yulan magnolia flowers contain volatile oil, mainly citral, clove oil acid, etc., and also contain magnoflorine, alkaloids, biond Magnolia flower element, capric acid, rutin, oleic acid, vitamin A, and other components, and have certain medicinal value. Yulan magnolia flowers are pungent and warm in nature and flavor, and have the effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold, opening the orifices, and ventilating the lungs and nose. They can be used for headaches, blood stasis-type dysmenorrhea, nasal congestion, acute and chronic sinusitis, allergic rhinitis, and other conditions. Modern pharmacological studies show that Yulan magnolia flowers have an inhibitory effect on common skin fungi.

Yulan magnolia flowers are rich in vitamins, amino acids, and various trace elements, and have the effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold and regulating qi and the lungs. They can be processed into snacks and can also be brewed as tea. The flower language of Yulan magnolia represents gratitude. Yulan magnolia often blooms large white flowers amid lush greenery. With its fragrant scent, it gives people an indescribable temperament, truly fresh and lovely. Because the plant is tall and the flowering position is relatively high, it sways in the wind with a spirited appearance, just like a heavenly maiden scattering flowers, very lovely.

Maranta

Maranta is an herbaceous plant. Most varieties have underground rhizomes or tubers, with solitary, relatively large leaves, ovate or ovate-lanceolate, with pinnate vein arrangement, two-ranked, and entire margins. Maranta is a relatively good ground cover plant with diverse colors and is a very good foliage plant. Maranta is a tropical plant that likes warm, humid, and brightly lit environments. It is not cold-tolerant, nor drought-tolerant, and fears scorching sun. If exposed to direct sunlight, it will burn the leaves, causing localized scorching at the leaf edges, stopping new leaf growth, and yellowing leaf color, so shading should be noted in cultivation. Maranta is relatively sensitive to water. During the growth period, it should be watered sufficiently to keep the potting soil moist, but the soil should not be waterlogged, otherwise it will cause root rot and even plant death. Maranta is somewhat "delicate." It requires enough careful attention 365 days a year. If the environment fluctuates greatly for a few days, it will leave "evidence of the crime" on the plant. This is the consensus of Maranta seedling traders and producers. Maranta plants do not have many pests and diseases, mainly scale insects, whiteflies, etc. Of course, it also has other values, such as medicinal value and dietary value. Maranta starch is almost entirely starch, contains no vitamins, and has a protein content of only 0.2%. It can be used as a thickener for soups, sauces, puddings, and desserts. Add water and boil into a transparent, odorless, delicious paste. Maranta starch is fine in texture and, compared with other starches, can be cooked at lower temperatures and in shorter times, and is easy to digest. It is especially suitable for custards and other egg products that cannot be overcooked, and is also suitable for making light-flavored, low-salt, and low-protein foods. Effects: clears the lungs and stops cough, clears heat and promotes urination. Indications: used to treat cough due to lung heat and difficult painful urination due to damp-heat in the bladder.

Red-flowered Loropetalum

Red-flowered loropetalum is an evergreen shrub or small tree. Bark dark gray or light grayish-brown, much branched. Young branches reddish-brown, densely covered with stellate hairs. Leaves leathery, alternate, ovate or elliptic, 2-5 cm long, apex short-acuminate, base rounded and oblique, asymmetrical, with stellate hairs on both sides, entire margin, dark red. Red-flowered loropetalum likes light and is slightly shade-tolerant, but in shade the leaf color easily turns green. It has strong adaptability and is drought-tolerant. It likes warmth and is cold-tolerant. It has strong sprouting and branching ability, and is tolerant of pruning. It is tolerant of barren soil, but is suitable for growing in fertile, moist, slightly acidic soil. Red-flowered loropetalum has luxuriant branches and leaves, a graceful posture, is tolerant of pruning and wiring, can be used for hedges, and can also be used to make stump bonsai. When it blooms, the whole tree is full of red flowers, extremely spectacular. Loropetalum is an evergreen plant, with fresh red new leaves. Different strains differ in leaf color and flower color at maturity, and leaf size also differs. In landscape applications, the main consideration is the contrast in color formed by differences in leaf color and leaf size, and the flowering periods can also be staggered. Main pests: aphids, geometrid moths, yellow noctuid moths, Dioryctria noctuid moths, large and small cutworms, and scarab beetles, etc. Common diseases of red-flowered loropetalum: anthracnose, damping-off, and mosaic disease. Anthracnose: mainly harms old leaves and basal leaves. Because the leaves themselves are red, the lesions appear as

black round spots, or nearly round, causing early defoliation, with severe damage in the rainy season from July to August. The pathogen is Actinonema. The fungus overwinters as mycelium on diseased leaves and is the primary infection source for the disease the following year. When you find disease on the branches and leaves of red-flowered loropetalum, you must treat it promptly.

Ornamental Peach

Ornamental peach is a variety of peach, a tree, 3-8 m tall; crown broad and spreading; bark dark reddish-brown, rough and scale-like when old; branchlets slender, hairless, glossy, green, turning red on the sunny side, with many small lenticels; winter buds conical, apex blunt, covered with short soft hairs, often 2-3 clustered, with the middle one being a leaf bud and the two sides being flower buds. Leaves oblong-lanceolate, elliptic-lanceolate, or obovate-lanceolate. Ornamental peach likes sunlight, is drought-tolerant, and is not tolerant of humid environments. It likes a warm climate and has good cold tolerance, able to overwinter safely in natural environments at minus 25 degrees Celsius. It requires fertile, well-drained soil. It does not like waterlogging; if planted in waterlogged low-lying places, dead seedlings easily occur. Landscape value: ornamental peach has large flowers and brilliant color, beautiful when blooming, with an ornamental period as long as 15 days. In landscaping, it is widely used by lakesides, streams, roadsides, and parks, etc., in small-scale greening projects such as courtyard greening accents and private gardens, and is also used for potted ornament, and often for cut flowers and bonsai. A common form is also weeping ornamental peach. Ornamental peach has wide landscaping uses and outstanding greening effects, showing particularly good effects in the same year of planting. It can be planted in rows, in masses, or as specimens, showing particularly good greening effects in the same year. Ornamental peach is one of the commonly used colorful nursery stock in landscaping, usually used together with purple-leaf plum, purple-leaf cherry, and other nursery stock. When combined with flowering shrubs, it forms a scene of a hundred flowers blooming together. Besides ornamental value, it also has medicinal value. The gum secreted from peach tree trunks, commonly known as peach gum, can be used as an adhesive, etc. It is a kind of polysaccharide substance, and hydrolysis can produce arabinose, galactose, xylose, rhamnose, glucuronic acid, etc. It is edible and also used medicinally, with the effects of breaking blood, harmonizing blood, and tonifying qi. Diseases and pests often occur in summer and autumn. Its main diseases include white rust and brown rot, shot hole disease, anthracnose, gummosis, and leaf curl. Main pests include aphids, red spiders, scale insects, and red-necked longhorn beetles, etc.

Artificial Plant Communities

1. Satsuki azalea + red-flowered loropetalum + golden-edged euonymus + thornless holly ball

These four plants have strong adaptability and are relatively widely planted in Fuzhou. Three leaf-color plants are planted linearly, with rich leaf colors, plus large-sized thornless holly balls, forming a neat, full, and clearly layered roadside greening color band effect.

2. Red-flowered loropetalum + red-leaf photinia ball + Michelia figo + Japanese maple

Red-flowered loropetalum itself is widely planted in Fujian and has good adaptability, with very beautiful leaf color and flower color. The old leaves of the red-leaf photinia ball are green, accented by red new leaves, setting each other off, extremely beautiful. The four plants are combined with rich layers and form a landscape road with longitudinal rhythm, spatial layers, and a strong sense of guidance.

3. Red-flowered loropetalum + Japanese fatsia + Canary Island date palm + frangipani

This combination of plants is mainly green, with leaves both small (Chinese fringeflower) and large (Japanese aralia, frangipani), while the Canary Island date palm adds a touch of tropical flavor. The rich layering has the effect of shrinking the space and makes people feel close to it.

4. Moso bamboo + iris

Moso bamboo is very suitable for planting in Fuzhou. It is a running bamboo, and the culms are spaced unevenly. The iris has a graceful posture and brightly colored, varied flowers. The two paired together are very charming.

5. Dwarf gardenia + Chinese fringeflower + Japanese aucuba + sweet osmanthus

The dwarf gardenia has leaves like a sparrow's tongue and a low stature, so it can serve as the lowest layer of plants. The Japanese aucuba has yellow spots on its leaves and is a relatively good foliage plant, while the sweet osmanthus is a tree whose flowers are delicately fragrant and refreshing to the heart. The combination has both density and spacing, variation in leaf color, and added floral fragrance.

6. Red azalea + Chinese fringeflower + Chinese perfume plant + canna

The red azalea has brilliant flowers, and with Chinese fringeflower and Chinese perfume plant as a backdrop, it is even more striking. The canna has large leaves, shrinking the space and making people feel close to it.

7. Groundcover lawn + marigold + red-leaf photinia + Chinese fringeflower balls + orange osmanthus

With green groundcover as the base, the marigold's bright yellow flowers are extremely beautiful. Behind the marigold, Chinese fringeflower and red photinia serve as a backdrop, and the orange osmanthus has a spreading tree form. These several plants set each other off, with rich variation.

8. Dwarf lilyturf + guava tree

Both dwarf lilyturf and guava tree adapt very well in Fuzhou and grow normally. The leaves are fine and soft, making dwarf lilyturf very suitable as groundcover. The guava tree has yellow, smooth bark, a graceful posture, and relatively large leaves arranged with both density and spacing, making it very suitable as part of an open grove along a small path.

9. Lawn + silver-edged agave + pruned and shaped banyan + yellow-flowered double-podded cassia

With green lawn as the base, the agave has large, thick leaves with silver-yellow and green alternating colors, and it matches very harmoniously with the pruned and shaped banyan, while the yellow-flowered double-podded cassia has a beautiful posture and brilliant flower color. This combination of several plants has rich layering, with color changes that are nevertheless harmonious.

10. Dwarf lilyturf + broadleaf lady palm + areca palm + papaya tree

This plant arrangement is suitable for one side of a small building. The dwarf lilyturf has fine, soft leaf shapes, while the broadleaf lady palm and areca palm have larger, thicker leaves, and the papaya has large palmate leaves, with its fruit borne on the main trunk and a very graceful posture.

11. Copperleaf + golden dewdrop + Chinese fringeflower

As a plant combination for a carpet flower bed, copperleaf has bright leaf color and serves as the edge, golden dewdrop has yellow-green leaves, and Chinese fringeflower has dark purple leaves. The three plants combined as a carpet flower bed are extremely attractive.

Part Two: "Maintenance Plan 4"

Landscaping Maintenance and Management Plan

Maintenance and management are very important in landscaping. It is a long-term, repeated task with relatively comprehensive technical requirements, including damage by people and livestock, sanitation and cleaning, pruning of flowers, plants and trees, watering and fertilizing, pest and disease control, and planting of flower bed plants. The completion of green space does not mean the completion of the landscape. People often say "three parts planting, seven parts management." Only with high-quality, high-level maintenance and management can the landscape gradually take shape and become perfect.

Current characteristics of the plants in the park area:

1. The green area covers about 2,454.19 million sq m, with a high green coverage rate. There are large numbers of trees of different specifications and varieties and pruned and shaped shrubs, and the initial growth has gradually taken shape. After careful inspection, the plant planting characteristics can be roughly divided into two areas according to the original master plan:

1) Plaza area: The plant planting style in this area is relatively open. The plaza is mainly planted with ginkgo, nanmu, and rows of large trees,

appropriately combined with low shrubs, and the overall space is relatively transparent.

2) Factory area: The plant varieties in this area are complexly matched, with large and small trees, shrubs, and groundcover plants interplanted.

The entrance is mainly planted with relatively precious large plants (Canary Island date palm, jacaranda, small-leaved banyan stumps,

top-grade sweet osmanthus, etc.). Whether the office area courtyard can still maintain its elegant, refined, spacious, and grand

scenery, and whether the hotel villa area courtyard can still carry forward its delicate, gentle, leisurely, and relaxed atmosphere,

all depends on later maintenance and management.

2. From the vertical area's greening conditions, we can find the following problems: ① Shaped shrubs are not growing well and their shapes are monotonous; ② Flowering shrubs have poor tree vigor, and their flowering conditions (including number of flowers, flower size, color, and reblooming) are unsatisfactory; ③ The lawn has many weeds, and in local areas turfgrass weeds show a tendency to spread unchecked; ④ There are pest and disease problems.

1. We plan to take the following rectification measures:

1. Promote three-dimensional gardening and carry out multi-style shaping of hedges and shrubs. For flowering shrubs planted as accents, take growth-promoting measures to encourage their growth and then shape them according to their form, which depends on the specific plant's growth and plant shape. The hedges in some local areas are highly regular, and the uniform long strips undoubtedly make the courtyard, which should be free and leisurely, appear mechanical and rigid. We can likewise try pruning them into wave shapes to match the relaxed and casual landscaping of the residential area, enliven the atmosphere of the entire courtyard, and also create a smoother living environment.

2. Immediately begin pest and disease control. For plants showing pest and disease characteristics, immediately carry out large-scale chemical control.

3、

4、

5. For lawn weeds, apply chemicals and increase the workload of manual removal. For different plants, implement different maintenance and management plans (mainly fertilizer supply: base fertilizer, topdressing, and foliar fertilizer; different plants in different seasons all have different fertilizing methods and fertilizer choices). Plant labels. We classify and count all the plants, then make green labels indicating their

family, genus, species, and living habits, and label all plants in the area. In this way,

we can enrich employees' general knowledge of plants, add to the cultural atmosphere of the park, and with eye-catching labels

bring more attention to the greening.

6. Greening maintenance is not a matter of one morning or one evening. While doing the rectification work well, we will likewise adopt different maintenance and management measures for

different plants at different times. We arrange our daily work by month

(detailed rules attached below), striving to make our work bring the landscape effect in the blueprint to the extreme, and

we also ask Party A to offer more opinions so that our work can gradually become more perfect and complete.

7. Maintenance responsibilities

Within the contracted maintenance period, our company, in accordance with landscaping maintenance operating procedures and landscaping maintenance quality standards, organizes reasonably and maintains carefully, and sends professional horticulturists to organize, guide, and arrange management and protection work, and flexibly assigns no fewer than experienced workers according to the weather in each season and plant growth conditions, to complete the maintenance and management tasks with guaranteed quality and quantity.

6. Maintenance content

1. Management procedures: including watering, opening basins and earthing up, pruning, fertilizing, weeding, pruning and bud removal, pest and disease control, straightening, and replanting seedlings (seedling costs calculated separately), and other complete processes. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

2. Management tools:

A. Flower shears, long shears, high-altitude shears, grass shoveling machines, lawn mowers

B. Sprayers, buckets, dump carts, bamboo baskets

C. Shovels, hoes, saws, electric saws, ladders

D. Fuel, maintenance fees

3. Maintenance content:

A. Trees: Apply organic fertilizer once a year, 0.25 kg of cake fertilizer per plant, and topdress once, applying 0.1 kg of compound fertilizer mixed with urea per tree, using hole application, spraying, and water-fertilizer methods, then cover with soil and water thoroughly, with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm. Timely prevent and control pests and diseases, maintain the trees' natural growth state without shaping or pruning, timely cut off yellow branches, diseased and pest branches, shaded leggy branches, and drooping branches that obstruct vehicle passage, and timely clean up pruned material. Remove weeds around the tree roots once a week to ensure there are no weeds.

B. Shrubs, hedges, bagged seedlings: Fertilize once a quarter, applying 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, using broadcasting and water-fertilizer methods, watering once within three hours after application, watering once a day (except rainy days), with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm. Timely prevent and control pests and diseases. For those pruned into round, square, or conical shapes, do minor pruning once a week and major pruning once a month, with smooth and attractive cut surfaces. Timely remove pruned material, timely cut off dead branches, diseased and pest branches, timely replant old, diseased, and dead plants, and remove weeds once a week.

C. Herbaceous plants: Fertilize once a quarter, applying 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, using broadcasting and water-fertilizer methods, watering once within three hours after application, watering once a day (except rainy days), with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm. Timely prevent and control pests and diseases. Cut off spent flowers once a week, remove weeds once a week, and timely cut off dead branches and yellow branches.

D. Taiwan grass: Fertilize once a quarter, applying 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, with even fertilization and thorough watering, with water penetration depth of more than 5 cm. Timely prevent and control pests and diseases, timely replant wilted and dead missing parts, with coverage rate above 98%, and prune 1-2 times a month.

(2) Specific arrangement of annual landscaping maintenance work:

January: The month with the lowest temperature of the year, when open-field trees are in a dormant state.

1. Winter pruning: Fully carry out shaping and pruning work on deciduous trees; prune dead branches, damaged branches, diseased and pest branches on large and small trees, and branches that interfere with overhead lines and buildings.

2. Street tree inspection: Timely inspect the binding and staking of street trees, and immediately rectify any loosened ties, wire embedded in bark, or loose stakes.

3. Pest control: Winter is a favorable season for eliminating landscape pests. You can dig out the pupae and cocoons of stinging moths in the loose soil under trees and burn them in a concentrated way. In mid-January, scale insects begin to become active, but at this time they move slowly, so we can adopt the method of scraping off the larvae on the trunks. Controlling pests in winter often achieves twice the result with half the effort.

4. Green space maintenance: In green spaces, flower beds, and other places, pay attention to removing large weeds; lawns should be weeded and edged in time; in green spaces, pay attention to antifreeze watering.

February: The temperature rises somewhat compared with last month, and trees are still in a dormant state.

1. Maintenance is basically the same as in January.

2. Pruning: Continue pruning dead branches and diseased branches of large and small trees. Complete the pruning of all kinds of trees before the end of the month.

3. Pest control: Continue to focus on preventing stinging moths and scale insects.

March: The temperature continues to rise. After mid-month, trees begin to sprout, and in late month some trees (such as camellia) bloom.

1. Tree planting: Spring is a favorable time for planting trees. After the soil thaws, immediately seize the opportunity to plant trees. Before planting large and small trees, do a good job of planning and design, dig (or hoe) the tree pits in advance, and achieve digging, transporting, planting, and watering as you go. When planting shrubs, also achieve digging, transporting, and planting as you go, and water fully to increase the seedling survival rate.

2. Spring irrigation: Because spring is dry and windy with high evaporation, in order to prevent spring drought, water green spaces and other areas in time.

3. Fertilizing: After the soil thaws, apply base fertilizer to plants and irrigate. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

4. Pest and disease control: This month is a critical time for pest and disease control. Some seedlings have developed sooty mold, and the boxwood leaf roller has also appeared (use pesticides such as fenitrothion for control). To control stinging moths, the method of digging out pupae can continue to be used.

April: The temperature continues to rise, and trees all sprout, bloom, or unfold leaves and begin to enter a period of vigorous growth.

1. Continue planting trees: In early April, seize the time to plant trees that sprout late. Shrubs that died in winter (azalea, Chinese fringeflower, etc.) should be promptly pulled out and replanted, and newly planted trees should be watered fully.

2. Irrigation: Continue to water the maintained green spaces in time.

3. Fertilizing: In combination with irrigation, topdress lawns and shrubs with quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.

4. Pruning: Cut off branches that dried up in winter and spring, and evergreen hedges can be pruned.

5. Pest and disease control: (1) After the second molting, scale insects successively move to bark cracks, tree holes, trunk bases, wall corners, and other places to secrete white waxy thin cocoons and pupate. They can be swept away with a hard bamboo broom and then buried deeply or soaked in a concentrated way. Or use pesticides such as fenitrothion by spraying. (2) Longhorn beetles begin to become active. You can use a grafting knife or self-made steel wire to pick out the larvae, but the wound should be as small as possible. (3) Prevention and control of other pests and diseases.

6. Maintenance in green spaces: Pay attention to removing weeds and climbing plants in large green spaces. Lawns should also be weeded and edged.

May: The temperature rises sharply, and trees grow rapidly.

1. Watering: During the peak leaf-unfolding period, trees have a very high water demand and should be watered in time.

2. Pruning: Prune spent flowers. Carry out the first bud-thinning pruning on street trees.

3. Pest and disease control: Continue to focus on catching longhorn beetles. The first generation of stinging moths hatches, but has not yet reached a harmful level, so make corresponding measures according to the actual situation in the maintenance area. Sooty mold caused by scale insects, aphids, and others has also entered its peak period (on crape myrtle, pittosporum, oleander, etc.). In mid-to-late May, spray 10?20 times rosin mixture and 50% parathion emulsion at 1500?2000 times dilution to prevent and control diseases and kill pests. (Other pesticides such as insecticidal antibiotics and Huabao can be used.)

June: High temperature

1. Watering: Plants have a high water demand and must be watered in time; do not "live at the mercy of the weather."

2. Fertilizing: Combine loosening the soil and weeding, fertilizing, and watering to achieve the best effect.

3. Pruning: Continue bud thinning and tiller removal on street trees. Carry out pruning on hedges, ball-shaped plants, and some flowering shrubs. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

4. Drainage work: In heavy rain weather, pay attention to drainage in low-lying areas.

5. Pest and disease control: In mid-to-late June, stinging moths enter the peak hatching period, and measures should be taken in time. At present, spraying 50% fenitrothion emulsion at 500?800 times dilution is basically used. (Or spray compound BT emulsion.) Continue manual capture of longhorn beetles.

6. Do a good job of pre-flood and pre-typhoon inspection of trees, and straighten, reinforce, and re-bind loose or tilted trees.

July: The highest temperature, with strong winds and heavy rain after mid-month.

1. Transplanting evergreen trees: During the rainy season, with sufficient moisture, conifers and bamboos can be transplanted, but pay attention to weather changes, and water in time once high temperatures occur.

2. Drainage: Drain water in time after heavy rain.

3. Topdressing: Apply quick-acting fertilizers such as nitrogen fertilizer dry before rain.

4. Street trees: Carry out typhoon-prevention bud-thinning pruning, prune all branches that conflict with power lines, and inspect tree stakes one by one, immediately straightening and tying tightly any that are loose or unstable. Prepare in advance in terms of labor organization, materials, tools and equipment, and send people to inspect at any time, handling dangerous situations promptly.

5. Pest and disease control: Continue to control longhorn beetles and stinging moths. To control longhorn beetles, you can inject 50% fenitrothion at 1:50 dilution (or fruit tree treasure, or Yuanke No. 3), then seal the hole, which can also achieve a very good effect. Camphor tree nest borers should be pruned off in time, and the pest nests destroyed to avoid harm again.

August: Still the rainy season

1. Drainage: After heavy rain, drain water in time from low-lying waterlogged areas.

2. Typhoon prevention work for street trees: Continue to do a good job of typhoon prevention for street trees.

3. Pruning: In addition to general summer pruning of trees, carry out shaping pruning on hedges.

4. Cultivating and weeding: Weeds also grow vigorously, so weed in time, and fertilizing can be combined with weeding.

5. Pest and disease control: Focus on catching longhorn beetles, and pay attention to catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Aphid damage and camphor tree nest borers should be controlled in time. In humid weather, pay attention to powdery mildew and rot, and take measures in time. September: The temperature declines somewhat; do related work well to welcome National Day.

1. Pruning: To welcome city appearance work, thin buds below the third-level branching of street trees. Shape-prune hedges. Weed in green spaces, edge lawns, and promptly clean up dead trees, so that trees have green branches and leaves and green spaces are clean and tidy.

2. Fertilizing: For some trees that grow weakly and whose branches are not full enough, topdress some phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.

3. Pest and disease control: Shot hole disease (cherry blossom, peach, plum, etc.) is at its peak, and 500% carbendazim at 1000 times dilution is used to prevent infection. Longhorn beetles begin to turn to the roots to cause harm, so pay attention to catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Also timely control carpenter moths on poplar and willow. Do a good job of preventing and controlling other pests and diseases.

4. Do a good job of inspecting all kinds of greening facilities before the holiday.

October: The temperature drops. In late October, early winter begins, trees begin to shed leaves, and successively enter the dormant period.

1. Prepare well for autumn tree planting. In late month, once cold-tolerant trees shed their leaves, planting can begin.

2. Green space maintenance: Timely remove dead trees and water in time. Do a good job of weeding and edging in green spaces and lawns. Fertilize flowering plants that are growing poorly.

3. Pest and disease control: Continue to catch longhorn beetles at the roots. Also pay attention to observing and controlling camphor tree nest borers. November: The soil begins to freeze at night and thaw during the day, entering deep winter.

1. Tree planting: Continue planting cold-tolerant plants, completing before the soil freezes.

2. Turning the soil: Turn the soil in green spaces to expose pests preparing to overwinter.

3. Watering: Water dry, hardened soil, completing before freezing.

4. Pest and disease control: Various pests prepare to overwinter in late month, and the control task is relatively light.

December: Low temperature; begin winter maintenance work.

1. Winter pruning: Prune some evergreen trees and shrubs.

2. Eliminate overwintering pests and diseases.

3. Prepare well for next year's adjustment work: After deciduous plants shed their leaves, observe the maintenance area and draw the positions to be adjusted.

7. Green space maintenance quality objectives

1 Greening maintenance technical measures are complete and management is proper, achieving no exposed yellow soil.

2 Landscape plants

2.1 Normal growth. Various plants in newly built green spaces reach normal form within three years; if plants or grass are damaged or die due to poor management, the replanted seedlings survive within one year.

2.2 The canopy of garden trees is basically intact, the distribution of main and lateral branches is even, the number is appropriate, pruning is reasonable, the inner part is not messy, and ventilation and light penetration are good. Flowering shrubs bloom promptly and normally, and are pruned promptly after flowering. Hedges and color blocks have normal branches and leaves, neat and uniform. There are no missing street trees, and no dead trees in the green space.

2.3 The new shoots of deciduous trees grow normally, and leaf size and color are normal. Under general conditions, yellow leaves, scorched leaves, curled leaves, and leaves with insect honeydew and insect webs shall not exceed 5%, and the preservation rate of normal leaves shall be above 90%. Coniferous

Part Three: "Annual Greening Maintenance Plan"

Annual Greening Maintenance Plan

January

1. Carry out winter shaping and pruning of various deciduous trees, cutting off dry branches, overlapping branches, crossing branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and lower lateral branches, to ensure that tree development tends toward reasonableness, tree branch form is improved, and pest and disease breeding is reduced.

2. Properly thin trees that are too densely grown, which can reduce pests and diseases and increase growth vigor.

3. Carry out winter plowing and turning of soil, improve the soil, and apply winter fertilizer to all trees, ground cover, and lawns to ensure the nutrient needs of seedlings and lawns.

4. Winter is a favorable season for eliminating garden pests. Under trees, in loose soil, dig up and collect the pupae and cocoons of slug moths, and burn them in a centralized manner.

5. As conditions warrant, thin the grass of certain lawn types, and prune 1-2 times. February

1. Carry out grass picking, pruning, and fertilizing work on lawns.

2. Do a good job in pest and disease prevention and control, especially paying attention to powdery mildew on narrow-leaved mahonia and giant mealybugs on coral and Japanese aralia.

3. In particular, strengthen freeze-proofing and heat-preservation measures for trees, and do a good job of loosening soil and hilling soil around tree root systems.

4. For cool-season lawns, apply a topdressing of urea once at the end of the month at 10 g/mu.

March

1. To prevent spring drought, water trees in a timely manner.

2. For lawns, promptly roll grass and remove weeds, and clean up winter grass in tree beds and flower beds.

3. Pest and disease control: strengthen observation and patrol, and do a good job in forecasting, reporting, and prevention and control. In particular, special attention should be paid to sooty mold and boxwood leaf roller. In mid-March, crape myrtle mealybug eggs hatch; from late March, pear rust occurs on crabapple types and cool-season lawns, so pay attention to prevention reports.

4. For local sunken and low-lying spots appearing in lawns, carry out soil hilling and sand covering, and carry out low pruning of winter ryegrass lawns to ensure the germination and growth of the underlying grass.

April

1. Do a good job in loosening soil, weeding, and pre-flowering fertilizing for field-planted flowers and trees. In particular, apply light fertilizer to perennial flowers and spring-sown herbaceous flowers, and for lawns and shrubs, combine with irrigation and apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.

2. Cut off branches that dried up in winter and spring, and begin pruning evergreen hedges.

3. Pest and disease control: mainly control aphids, sooty mold, and beetles. Keep relevant records.

May

1. This month is the peak period of tree leaf expansion, and water demand is very high, so watering should be done in a timely manner.

2. Prune spring flowering shrubs such as osmanthus and Hall crabapple, and promptly carry out bud removal on London plane, red-leaf plum, crape myrtle, and other trees.

3. Weed flower beds and shrub color blocks. At the same time, carry out grass picking on lawns, and prune lawn grass in a timely manner to control its height.

4. Pest and disease control: do a good job in forecasting, reporting, and prevention and control.

June

1. Water plants in a timely manner to ensure sufficient water supply for plants.

2. Loosen soil and weed tree beds and color-block shrubs, and carry out grass picking on lawns.

3. Lawns should be pruned in a timely manner, and their growth height should be controlled, paying attention to controlling the occurrence of large-scale pests and diseases. Apply compound fertilizer once to lawns that grow poorly or lack fertilizer, so that they can safely pass the summer.

4. Pest and disease control: do a good job in forecasting, reporting, and prevention and control.

July

1. In high-temperature weather, especially ensure that plant watering work is implemented.

2. Carry out soil loosening and weeding work on flower beds and color-block shrubs, and at the same time do a good job in grass picking on ground cover. This month the weather is hot, with high temperatures and relatively high humidity, and weeds grow quickly. Seize the opportunity to carry out weeding and grass picking work to prevent grass overgrowth, and continue intertillage weeding and soil loosening.

3. Seriously do a good job in typhoon and flood prevention work, reinforce and secure trees in the garden to prevent lodging; promptly dredge and drain places that are low-lying or have severe water accumulation.

4. Pest and disease control: do a good job in forecasting, reporting, and prevention and control.

August

1. Carry out summer pruning of evergreen trees, and carry out shaping pruning of hedges.

2. Lawn weeds grow vigorously, so weed and prune in a timely manner, control lawn height, and combine weeding with fertilizing. Timely supplementary and topdressing fertilization is needed, mainly with P and K fertilizers, together with N fertilizer. For small seedlings, shrubs, and herbaceous flowers, apply light fertilizer frequently. At the same time, pay attention to mastering the fertilization period and climate.

3. Under high-temperature weather, daily watering and drought-relief work must be ensured, and it must not be chosen to be done from 10:00 to 15:00, so as to avoid burning seedlings. (Including: tree bed maintenance, weed control, soil loosening, etc.)

4. Continue to do a good job in typhoon and flood prevention work, further reinforce and secure large trees in residential areas to prevent lodging; and promptly dredge and drain ditches in low-lying and water-accumulating places to prevent water accumulation from lasting too long.

5. Pest and disease control: do a good job in forecasting, reporting, and prevention and control.

September

1. Carry out shaping pruning of hedges. Weed green spaces and promptly clean up dead trees, so that tree branches are green and leaves are lush, and the green space is clean and neat.

2. Thin trees that are too densely grown, and at the same time carry out bud removal work.

3. Lawns should be pruned, edged, and cleared of weeds in a timely manner, and attention should be paid to pest and disease control work.

4. Carry out weeding work on flower beds and color-block shrubs, and at the same time do a good job in grass picking on ground cover, and collect flower seeds.

5. Pest and disease control: do a good job in forecasting, reporting, and prevention and control.

October

1. Prune spherical shrubs to ensure a beautiful appearance, neatness, and distinct layers. Prune the tree form of evergreen trees so that their growth and development tend toward reasonableness and their tree posture and appearance are improved.

2. Strengthen management of newly planted herbaceous flowers, promptly fill empty and bare spots, water, and fertilize those growing poorly.

3. Pest and disease control: do a good job in forecasting and reporting, actively prevent and control, and keep relevant records. November

1. Carry out thinning and pruning of evergreen trees and evergreen shrubs, mainly for ventilation and light penetration, reducing pests and diseases, and enhancing growth vigor.

2. Do a good job in grass picking and edging in flower beds, color-block shrubs, and green spaces, promptly pull out weeds, and promptly replant empty and bare spots. As conditions warrant, adjust trees in the local layout, and some evergreen trees and a few deciduous tree species may be transplanted. Also begin cold-proofing and warmth-preserving work, and for trees with

poor cold resistance, carry out straw wrapping and soil hilling.

3. Strengthen maintenance and management of newly planted plants, pay attention to timely watering, and prune appropriately. For lawns, as conditions warrant, carry out grass combing and punching, and at the same time prune 2-3 times.

4. Carry out fertilization work in late this month, and combine with increased application of organic fertilizer to carry out green space soil turning work.

5. Pest and disease control: do a good job in forecasting and reporting, actively prevent and control, and keep relevant records. December

1. Do a good job in grass picking and edging in color-block shrubs and green spaces, and promptly pull out weeds.

2. Carry out thinning and pruning of evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs, mainly removing residual stumps and dead branches, in order to make the trees grow better the next year (do not prune flowering shrubs that have already formed flower buds), and at the same time pay attention to cleaning up insect cocoons on tree trunks and branches.

3. Wrap sago palms, date palms, and other southern plants with straw rope to ensure they safely overwinter.

4. Pest and disease control: do a good job in forecasting and reporting, actively prevent and control, and keep relevant records.

Part Four: "Latest Commonly Used Plants in Southern Landscaping"

Commonly Used Garden Plants in Southern Landscaping

Evergreen trees:

Norfolk Island pine, slash pine, Chinese fir, Caribbean pine, Chinese weeping cypress, mahogany, big-leaf mahogany, Sterculia lanceolata, Chinese saraca, sugar apple, longan, Dracontomelon duperreanum, Michelia macclurei, golden shower tree, Chinese arborvitae, sabina, dragon juniper, Fujian cypress, Buddhist pine, Japanese cedar, Buddhist pine, longleaf Buddhist pine, white champaca, southern magnolia, houpo magnolia, burmann cinnamon, camphor tree, cinnamon, Gmelina hainanensis, Hainan ormosia, Taiwan acacia, siamese senna, red flowering camel's foot tree, camel's foot tree, Hong Kong orchid tree, almond, mango, Ormosia henryi, Cleistocalyx operculatus, Elaeocarpus hainanensis, avocado, Alstonia scholaris, false betel nut palm, Chinese fan palm, fishtail palm, queen palm, rose apple, Hainan rose apple, sapodilla, lemon-scented gum, river red gum, swamp mahogany, blue gum, cajeput tree, Cheilosoria? no, Cleidiocarpon cavaleriei, Torreya grandis, Cephalotaxus fortunei, Indian rubber fig, banyan, small-leaf banyan, large-fruit fig, weeping fig, large-leaf banyan, sacred fig, casuarina, jackfruit, Acer cinnamomifolium, Castanopsis sclerophylla, Cyclobalanopsis glauca, candlenut, silk oak, Elaeocarpus apiculatus, big-leaf Elaeocarpus, sea hibiscus, wintergreen, glossy privet, osmanthus, loquat, Albizia falcataria, royal palm, fishtail palm, Washingtonia, sugar palm, longleaf date palm, bishop wood, red sandalwood, Dillenia indica, jackfruit, yellow cassia, jackfruit, large-leaf privet, Michelia chapensis, schefflera, Heteropanax fragrans

Deciduous trees:

Terminalia mantaly, Chinese swamp cypress, water wax gourd? no, water waxberry? no, Chinese tallow tree, Hovenia dulcis, sand pear, soapberry, goldenrain tree, frangipani, bald cypress, pond cypress, tulip tree, white magnolia, Chinese parasol tree, sawtooth oak, cork oak, Chinese hackberry, Chinese elm, white oak, camptotheca, large-flowered crape myrtle, Ceiba speciosa, flame tree, Caesalpinia pulcherrima, Jacaranda mimosifolia, yellow cassia, chinaberry, Chukrasia tabularis, coral tree, cockspur coral tree, chestnut, silk tree, sweet acacia, Kalopanax septemlobus, sweetgum, weeping willow, Magnolia soulangeana, purple-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, papaya, Indian

red sandalwood, red-leaf plum

Evergreen shrubs:

Sago palm, Chinese plum yew, Aglaia odorata, big-leaf boxwood, Elaeagnus pungens, camellia sasanqua, sweet viburnum? no, Viburnum odoratissimum, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, Hypericum, Areca triandra, areca palm, Chuniophoenix, Aglaia odorata, golden trumpet, Justicia gendarussa, callistemon, Carmona retusa, gardenia, crown of thorns, poinsettia, Jasminum mesnyi, Aucuba, holly, rhododendron, Cordyline fruticosa, croton, red mulberry? no, Acalypha wilkesiana, Acalypha wilkesiana 'Marginata', Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves', Senna? no, Cassia glauca? no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no.

Golden banyan, fiddle-leaf fig, willow-leaf fig, golden vein justicia, schefflera, variegated duranta, golden duranta, Justicia gendarussa, golden privet, taro, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, snake plant, Rhaphiolepis indica? no, variegated hibiscus, Euphorbia cotinifolia, small-leaf boxwood, African jasmine, Brunfelsia, Hamelia? no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no.

Deciduous shrubs:

Cotton rose, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea prunifolia, modern rose, Abelia chinensis, pomegranate, beautyberry, purple magnolia, lespedeza, Amur honeysuckle, Chinese snowball viburnum, rose of Sharon, redbud, dwarf flowering cherry, Spiraea thunbergii, pearl bush, Butterfly tree? no, elderberry, fig, Sichuan pepper, trifoliate orange, butterfly bush, Ligustrum sinense

Vines:

Monstera deliciosa, bougainvillea, Millettia reticulata, flame vine, Rangoon creeper, Akebia trifoliata, honeysuckle, Euonymus fortunei, creeping fig, kiwifruit, Euonymus radicans? no, Hong Kong staghorn? no, Mucuna birdwoodiana, wax plant, Epipremnum pinnatum, pothos, star jasmine, Chinese ivy, English ivy, Schisandra chinensis? no, Boston ivy, Chinese trumpet creeper, passionflower, Lagerstroemia? no, Mucuna? no, Thunbergia grandiflora

Artabotrys hexapetalus, Thunbergia grandiflora, Rangoon creeper, coral vine, Boston ivy, flame vine, Mucuna? no, Clerodendrum? no, wisteria, creeping fig, cypress vine, morning glory, morning glory, snake vine? no, Jasminum officinale, Dutchman's pipe, garlic vine, wood rose, Bignonia? no, passionflower

Bamboo:

Bambusa textilis, Bambusa chungii, moso bamboo, fernleaf hedge bamboo, Phyllostachys glauca, Bambusa vulgaris 'Vittata', Neosinocalamus affinis, Bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus amarus, Indocalamus tessellatus, Buddha belly bamboo, Dendrocalamus latiflorus, Bambusa textilis, Thai bamboo, Bambusa pervariabilis, Chimonobambusa quadrangularis, green bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, Bambusa multiplex 'Alphonse Karr', red bamboo

Lawns and ground cover plants:

Bermuda grass, Zoysia sinica, fine-leaf zoysia, carpet grass, centipede grass, Paspalum distichum, Manila grass, zoysia, Guangdong evergreen, Tradescantia? no, mussel shell flower? no, Ophiopogon? no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no.

Calathea? no, Syngonium, Syngonium podophyllum 'White Butterfly', pothos, Tradescantia zebrina, Boston fern, Pilea cadierei, Rhoeo spathacea, Spathiphyllum, Ophiopogon? no, Lantana camara, Lantana camara 'Yellow', Lantana? no

Lantana, dusty miller, clerodendrum, shrimp plant, Justicia? no, asparagus fern, beach evening primrose, beach morning glory, English ivy, star jasmine, ginger lily, umbrella plant, papyrus, iris, purple loosestrife, narcissus, lotus, water lily, Wedelia trilobata, oxalis, Brazilian peanut vine? no, dichondra, Alternanthera? no, Alternanthera? no, coleus, Verbena? no, Alternanthera? no, rain lily, rain lily, amaryllis, lily, calla lily, periwinkle, centipede grass, Manila grass, Korean lawn grass, Bermuda grass, large-leaf carpet grass, Stenotaphrum? no, bahia grass, Ophiopogon japonicus

Palms:

Royal palm, Washington palm, triangle palm, king palm, foxtail palm, Butia palm, bottle palm, club palm, Middle Eastern date palm, Canary Island date palm, Bismarck palm, oil palm, fishtail palm, windmill palm, sabal palm, Chinese fan palm, queen palm, fishtail palm, queen palm, Washingtonia, beautiful date palm, short-spike fishtail palm, long-spike fishtail palm, areca palm, Areca triandra, traveler's palm, rhapis palm

Seasonal flowers

Star flower, African impatiens, wax begonia, scarlet sage, petunia, hybrid dianthus, ornamental kale, Tagetes patula, marigold, nasturtium, pansy, Torenia fournieri, cockscomb, pot marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, moss rose, Portulaca grandiflora, cosmos, cineraria, spider flower, daylily, lavender, purple loosestrife

Part Five: "Examples of Southern Plant Configuration"

Southern Plant Configuration

Philodendron bipinnatifidum + Cyperus alternifolius + variegated galangal

Dracaena? no, Cordyline? no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no.

Royal palm + fishtail palm + beautiful date palm + canna + coleus + croton

Royal palm + Canary Island date palm head + red cordyline? no, red copperleaf? no, Ixora

Royal palm + false betel nut palm + areca palm + large-leaf rhapis + golden leaf

Part Six: "Commonly Used Garden Plants in the South"

Commonly Used Plants in Southern Courtyards

I. Palm types:

1. Royal palm 2. False betel nut palm 3. Washington palm 4. Silver date palm 5. Canary Island date palm 6. Areca triandra

7. Chinese fan palm 8. Washingtonia 9. Areca palm 10. Rhapis palm (fine-leaf rhapis palm) 11. Guixiang? no, 12. Soft-leaf date palm

II. Tree types (street trees, shade trees):

1. Flame tree 2. Kapok 3. Ceiba speciosa 4. Coral tree 5. Elaeocarpus apiculatus 6. Alstonia scholaris

7. Small-leaf banyan 8. Elaeocarpus hainanensis 9. Mango 10. Chukrasia tabularis 11. Cinnamomum burmannii 12. Large-flowered crape myrtle

13. Red sandalwood 14. Frangipani 15. Terminalia 16. Traveler's palm 17. Pandanus? no, 18. Bishop wood

19. Carambola 20. Olea? no, 21. Golden shower tree 22. Albizia falcataria 23. Cajeput tree

24. Eucalyptus 25. Hainan rose apple 26. Aphanamixis? no, 27. Camel's foot tree 28. Mahogany

29. Banyan 30. Spathodea campanulata 31. Tabebuia? no, 32. Goldenrain tree

III. Flowering shrubs:

1. Four-season osmanthus 2. Fine-leaf bamboo? no, 3. Tree fern 4. Golden banyan 5. Bougainvillea

6. Yellow cassia 7. Callistemon 8. Variegated sisal 9. Hibiscus 10. Fagraea? no, 11. Variegated banyan

12. Hibiscus 13. Michelia figo 14. Crape myrtle 15. Calliandra? no, 16. Tabernaemontana divaricata 17. Aglaonema? no

18. Furcraea? no, 19. Yucca 20. Flame vine 21. Yellow oleander 22. Polyscias

IV. Ground cover or color blocks:

1. Pittosporum 2. Monstera deliciosa 3. Pothos 4. Bird's nest fern 5. Red gem? no, 6. Large-leaf? no, 7. Schefflera

8. Little angel? no, 9. Golden leaf 10. Cuphea? no, 11. Fine-leaf frog orchid? no, 12. Calathea? no, 13. Rhododendron

14. Dwarf Chinese fan palm 15. Philodendron bipinnatifidum 16. Variegated duranta 18. Spider lily? no, 19. Tradescantia zebrina 19. Golden trumpet

20. Variegated galangal 21. Asparagus fern 22. Golden peanut? no, 23. Fine-leaf ixora 24. Boston fern 25. Pachystachys lutea

26. White butterfly 27. Pilea cadierei 28. Dieffenbachia 29. Rainbow cordyline 30. Croton 31. Ophiopogon

32. Silver-edge grass 33. Jasmine 34. Velvet calathea 35. Taiwan grass 36. Large-leaf carpet grass

37. Manila grass 38. Bermudagrass 39. Ryegrass 40. Tall fescue

There are also some commonly used plants:

1. Ficus religiosa 2. Ficus altissima 3. Elaeocarpus hainanensis 4. Campanula 5. National Day flower 6. Golden shower tree

7. Senna siamea 8. Kigelia africana 9. Thailand yellow giant yellow flower ball 10. Golden fragrant willow

11. Senna alata 12. Senna bicapsularis 13. Jatropha podagrica 14. Syzygium nervosum 15. Manglietia glauca

16. Hainan sajin 17. Variegated money tree 18. Ormosia pinnata 19. Mahogany

20. Albizia falcataria 21. Sandalwood cinnamon 22. Autumn osmanthus 23. Bay laurel 24. Washingtonia 25. Fine-leaved hedge bamboo

26. Indian yellow (purple) sandalwood 27. Red sandalwood 28. Dianella ensifolia 29. Leizhou banyan 30. Markhamia cauda-felina

Commonly used garden plants in southern China

1. Evergreen trees

Norfolk Island pine, Cunningham's araucaria, Keteleeria fortunei, Bunya pine, Kauri, Masson pine, Slash pine, Camphor tree, Cinnamomum japonicum, Giant eucalyptus, Paperbark tree, Rose apple, Syzygium hainanense, Autumn maple, Taiwan acacia, Acacia mangium, Acacia auriculiformis, Red sandalwood, Small-leaved banyan, Large-leaved banyan, Ficus altissima, Ficus superba, Ficus elastica, Variegated Ficus elastica, Bodhi tree, Candlenut tree, Mahogany, Dillenia indica, Alstonia scholaris, Indian almond, Terminalia mantaly, Jackfruit, Wax apple, Dracontomelon duperreanum, Sapodilla, Chinaberry, Casuarina equisetifolia, Michelia alba, Michelia coco, Michelia macclurei, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Southern magnolia, Sea hibiscus, Mango, Longan, Lychee, Olive, Loquat, Bayberry, Pomelo, Elaeocarpus hainanensis, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus nagi), Osmanthus, Four-season osmanthus, Michelia figo, Aglaia odorata, Camellia, Weeping fig, Phyllanthus emblica, Ficus tinctoria

2. Deciduous trees

Dawn redwood, Bald cypress, Pond cypress, Chinese swamp cypress, Chinese tulip tree, Chinese parasol tree, Bischofia polycarpa, Albizia falcataria, Albizia lebbeck, Leucaena leucocephala, Sweetgum, Weeping willow, Sausage tree, Neolamarckia cadamba, Silver oak, Chinese hackberry, Soapberry, Chinese pistache, Chinaberry, Chinese tallow tree, Tung oil tree, Ginkgo, Sterculia monosperma, Persimmon, Fig, Mulberry, Papaya, Guava, Red maple, Sweet acacia

3. Palms

Alexander palm, Royal palm, King palm, Bottle palm, Club palm, Triangle palm, Foxtail palm, Queen palm, Oil palm, Sugar palm, Washingtonia robusta, Washington palm, Canary Island date palm, Middle Eastern date palm, Iranian honey date, Chinese fan palm, Fish-tail palm, Sugar palm, Date palm, Soft-leaf date palm, Areca triandra, Green palm, Fragrant palm, Long-spike fishtail palm, Short-spike fishtail palm, Areca palm, Windmill palm, Banana, Traveler's palm, Cordyline, Lady palm, Fine-leaved lady palm, White bird of paradise, Red-stem philodendron, Alocasia

4. Foliage shrubs

Golden weeping fig, Golden banyan, Fiddle-leaf fig, Willow-leaf fig, Garcinia subelliptica, Variegated reed grass, Polyalthia longifolia pendula, Pandanus tectorius, Pittosporum tobira, Variegated hibiscus, Sago palm, Callistemon, Night-blooming jasmine, Cotinus coggygria, Justicia brandegeeana, Fatsia japonica, Juniperus procumbens, Variegated cassava, Nandina, Schefflera, Variegated schefflera, Pepper tree, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Acalypha wilkesiana, Japanese lilac, Duranta repens, Variegated duranta, Yellow-leaf duranta, Orange jasmine, Croton, Croton lancifolius, Hainan croton, Croton variegatus, Buddleja asiatica, Carmona retusa, Small-leaved boxwood, Golden privet, Crown of thorns, Furcraea foetida variegata, Agave, Variegated agave, Yucca, Beaucarnea recurvata, Aspidistra, Sansevieria, Cactus, Alocasia, Philodendron, Monstera, Variegated shell ginger, Scaevola taccada, Rhaphiolepis indica, Breynia disticha, Phyllanthus myrtifolius, Chinese rose

5. Flowering shrubs

African jasmine, Brunfelsia, Murraya paniculata, Hibiscus syriacus, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia, Malvaviscus, Poinsettia, Calliandra, Bougainvillea, Large-flowered gardenia, Hydrangea, Pachystachys lutea, Melastoma, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Datura suaveolens, White paper flower, Red paper flower, Allamanda, Western azalea, Senna bicapsularis, Tecomaria capensis, Myrtle, Ixora, Paspalum, Jasminum mesnyi, Jasmine, Crinum lily,

Spider lily, Crab claw flower, Dwarf canna, Stone flax, Jatropha integerrima, Plumbago auriculata, Blue star flower, Butterfly pea

6. Ground covers

Calathea roseopicta, Syngonium, White butterfly syngonium, Pothos, Tradescantia zebrina, Boston fern, Pilea, Rhoeo spathacea, Peace lily, Liriope, Variegated liriope, Red-flowered lantana, Yellow-flowered lantana, Purple-flowered lantana, Dusty miller, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Justicia brandegeeana, Red firecracker plant, Asparagus fern, Beach evening primrose, Beach morning glory, Ivy, Star jasmine, Ginger lily, Umbrella plant, Papyrus, Iris, Purple loosestrife, Narcissus, Lotus, Water lily, Wedelia trilobata, Red-flowered oxalis, Brazilian peanut vine, Dichondra, Purple amaranth, Alternanthera, Coleus, Fine-leaved verbena, Red-green grass, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes rosea, Amaryllis, Lily, Calla lily, Periwinkle, Centipede grass, Manila grass, Korean zoysia, Bermudagrass, Large-leaved carpet grass, Variegated blunt grass, Bahia grass, Dwarf lilyturf

7. Vines

Thunbergia grandiflora, Rangoon creeper, Coral vine, Boston ivy, Orange trumpet vine, Mucuna birdwoodiana, Clerodendrum speciosissimum, Wisteria, Ficus pumila, Cypress vine, Morning glory, Maple-leaved morning glory, Snake vine, Jasminum officinale, Dutchman's pipe, Garlic vine, Wood rose, Bignonia capreolata, Passionflower

Chapter 7: "Document on Commonly Used Plant Arrangements in Southern China"

Practical Plant Arrangement Table ---- Concise Table of Commonly Used Plant Arrangements

Aquatic plants:

Wetland plants: Hankow willow, Weeping willow, Cotton willow, Sand willow, Artemisia willow, Soap willow, Small-leaved poplar, Liaoning poplar, Sand juniper, Chinese juniper, Oriental arborvitae, Dawn redwood, Chinaberry, Chinese wingnut, White ash, Forsythia, Elm, Loblolly elm, Chinese elm, Chinese tallow tree, Cherry blossom, Eucommia, Goldenrain tree, Cotton rose, Hibiscus syriacus, Oleander, Boston ivy, Grape, Wisteria, Amorpha fruticosa, Tamarisk, Buttercup, Water hyacinth sprout, Long-leaved alkali ranunculus, Marsh willowleaf, Willowleaf grass, Marsh woundwort, Chinese woundwort, Mint, Mazus, Veronica, Watercress, Scirpus, Water wool grass, Flat-stem scirpus, Water nutgrass, Flower-spike water nutgrass, Globe-spike pycreus, Red phosphor pycreus, Jointed rush, Small-flowered rush, Small rush, Fine rush, Polygonum aviculare, Common knotweed, Red knotweed, Clustered knotweed, Dock-leaved knotweed, Willow-leaf prickly knotweed, Small arrow-leaf knotweed, Chinese knotweed, Prickly knotweed, Halberd-leaved knotweed, Large halberd-leaved knotweed, Japanese knotweed, Lalang grass, Reed bentgrass, Large-leaved reed grass, Beckmannia, Long-awned clubhead, Wild sugar cane, Amur silvergrass, Job's tears, Hemarthria, Wetland ground orchid,

Emergent plants: Scirpus, Reed, Lotus root, Arrowhead, Broad-leaved umbrella sedge, Alisma, Lotus, Purple loosestrife, Cattail, Monochoria, Pontederia, Acorus, Pickerelweed, Rice, Kandelia, Narcissus, Water celery, Wild rice stem, Taro, Marsilea, Reed, Water chestnut, Scirpus, Needle rush, Cattail, Umbrella sedge, Broad-leaved cattail

Floating plants: Duckweed, Water hyacinth, Water lily, Gorgon nut, Victoria amazonica, Spatterdock, Water hyacinth, Water shield, Water shield, Yellow bladderwort, Floating fern, Long-spur water shield,

Submerged plants: Hornwort, Water plantain

Colorful-leaf plants:

Red or purple: Sweetgum, Lacquer tree, Japanese maple, Amur maple, Oriental bittersweet, Red oak, Maple, Chinese tallow tree, Staghorn sumac, Sumac, Mountain ash, Nandina, Euonymus, Hawthorn, Chinese pistache, Chinese wingnut, Barberry, Hubei hornbeam, Boston ivy

Golden yellow or yellowish brown: Ginkgo, Persimmon, Goldenrain tree, Chinese tulip tree, Chinese parasol tree, Elm, Walnut, Catalpa, Dawn redwood, Crape myrtle, Chinese elm, Nanmu, Wild jujube, Kiwi, Horse chestnut, Water elm mountain ash, Wintersweet, Pomegranate, Yellow locust, Witch hazel, Soapberry, Sweet acacia

Aromatic plants:

Aromatic plants that can be planted in residential areas include: herbs such as mint, basil, lemon balm, German chamomile, lemongrass, sage, dandelion, calendula, thyme, borage, scented geranium, and mallow; shrubs such as lavender, rosemary, gardenia, rose, and lemon verbena.

Woody plants arranged to release fragrance in turn through the four seasons, such as: plum blossom and orange blossom in spring; gardenia and Michelia alba in summer; osmanthus in autumn and wintersweet in winter.

Pollution-resistant and exhaust-resistant plants: Black locust, Paulownia, White-bark pine, Chinese juniper, Coral tree, Photinia, Pittosporum, Fatsia japonica, etc.

Nitrogen-fixing plants: Robinia, Lonicera, Albizia, Amorpha fruticosa, Caragana, Soybean, Lespedeza, Melilotus, Pea, Phaseolus, Bayberry, Elaeagnus, Cycas

Nectar-source, bird-attracting, and butterfly-attracting plants: Dwarf yew, Buddhist pine, Torreya, Japanese holly, Camphor tree, Bayberry, Privet, Ternstroemia, Viburnum, Aucuba, Mahonia, Firethorn, Boxwood, Pittosporum, Fatsia japonica, etc., Butterfly bush, Chinese pistache, and other fragrant-flowering plants (such as plants of the genus Citrus in the family Rutaceae)

Perennial (herbaceous perennial) flowers: Torch lily (red-hot poker), Lupine, Blue fescue, Astilbe, Coreopsis, Lysimachia, Oregano, Large-flowered hibiscus, Red-flowered mint, Variegated star jasmine, Chi pine-leaf chrysanthemum, Hellebore, Lycoris, Daylily, Iris, Spiderwort, Hosta, Variegated canna, Red-leaf canna, Dutch aster, Farfugium japonicum, Bletilla, Perennial verbena

Flowers and trees of the four seasons:

Spring: Various cherry blossoms (early cherry, late cherry, weeping cherry, etc.), various crabapples (Malus micromalus, Malus spectabilis, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.), Magnoliaceae (Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia rubra, Michelia figo, Michelia maudiae, etc.), redbud, red-leaf

plum, peach blossom, camellia, winter jasmine, lilac, etc.

Summer: Crape myrtle, Hibiscus syriacus, Hydrangea, Michelia figo, Summer azalea, Pomegranate (flower), Gardenia, Trumpet vine, Albizia julibrissin, Sweet acacia Autumn: Osmanthus, Crape myrtle, Hibiscus syriacus, Flowering pomegranate, Cotton rose, Trumpet vine, etc.

Winter: Honeysuckle, Nandina, Plum blossom, Michelia figo, Camellia, Sasanqua, etc.

Schematic classification of common landscaping tree species:

(1) Evergreen coniferous trees

1. Tree types: Deodar cedar, Korean pine, Black pine, Chinese juniper, Masson pine, Chinese juniper, Sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Japanese cedar, Torreya

2. Shrub types: (Buddhist pine), Oriental arborvitae, Weeping cypress, Creeping juniper, Japanese cedar, Five-needle pine

(2) Deciduous coniferous trees (no shrubs):

Tree types: Dawn redwood, Golden larch, Bald cypress, Pond cypress

(3) Evergreen broad-leaved trees:

1. Tree types: Camphor tree, Southern magnolia, Privet, Windmill palm

2. Shrub types: Coral tree, Large-leaved boxwood, Small-leaved boxwood, Boxleaf holly, Chinese holly, Orange tree, Photinia, Pittosporum, Osmanthus, Oleander, Yellow jasmine, Winter jasmine, Variegated coral tree, Nandina, Serissa, Small-leaved privet, Fatsia japonica, Gardenia, Distylium, Camellia, Hypericum, Azalea, Yucca (pineapple flower, arrow hemp), Sago palm (iron tree), Mahonia

(4) Deciduous broad-leaved trees:

1. Tree types: Weeping willow, Upright willow, Chinese wingnut, Dragon-claw willow, Chinese tallow tree, Sophora, Chinese parasol tree (Chinese parasol

tree), Plane tree (French plane), Sophora (Japanese pagoda tree), Coiled sophora, Albizia julibrissin, Ginkgo, Chinaberry (neem), Catalpa

2. Shrub types: Cherry blossom, Magnolia denudata, Peach blossom, Wintersweet, Crape myrtle, Redbud, Ash tree, Green maple, Red-leaf plum, Chaenomeles speciosa, Bellflower crabapple, Hydrangea, Large-flowered hydrangea, Forsythia (golden strip), Cotton rose, Hibiscus syriacus (hibiscus tree), Alchornea (osmanthus garden tree), Pomegranate

(5) Bamboo types: Ci-xiao bamboo, Bambusa tuldoides, Moso bamboo, Black bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, Phoenix-tail bamboo, Buddha-belly bamboo, Golden bamboo with jade inlay

(6) Vines: Wisteria, Star jasmine, Boston ivy (creeping ivy, climbing ivy), Ivy, Grape vine, Euonymus fortunei

(7) Flowers: Sunflower, Everlasting chrysanthemum, Salvia, Canna, Joseph's coat, Kale (ball cabbage), Chrysanthemum, Orchid

(8) Lawn: Velvet grass, Zoysia, Lilyturf, Four-season green grass, Tall fescue, Manila grass, Clover, Dichondra

Detailed Table of Commonly Used Plant Arrangements

Table of Commonly Used Street Trees

Name Scientific name Family Tree shape Characteristics

Camphor tree Cinnamomun camphcra Camphor family Spherical Evergreen large tree, alternate leaves, three main veins, aromatic, berries spherical.

Plane tree Platanus x acerifolia Plane tree family Oval Prefers warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerant of pruning. Large crown with dense shade, suitable as a street tree and shade tree.

Maple Liquidamdar formosana Hance. Witch hazel family Conical Deciduous tree, bark gray and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, beautiful tree form

Flamboyant tree Delonix regia Raffin Caesalpinia family Umbrella Sun-loving, prefers warm and hot climates, not cold-tolerant, fast-growing, pollution-resistant, wind-resistant; flowers red and beautiful, flowering period May to August

Albizia Albizia julibrissin Mimosa family Umbrella Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as a shade ornamental tree and street tree

Sweet acacia Albizia farnesiana Wild. Mimosa family Umbrella Deciduous sub-tree, fast-growing, dense branches and leaves, flowers golden yellow, excellent tree vigor

Weeping willow Salix babylonica Linn. Willow family Umbrella Deciduous sub-tree, suitable for low-temperature areas, grows luxuriantly and rapidly, beautiful tree form

Banyan Ficus retusa Linn.. Mulberry family Spherical Deciduous tree, broad crown, fast-growing, strong canopy density, suitable for various types of pruning

Camphor tree Cinnamomum camphora Ness. Camphor family Spherical Evergreen tree, broad crown, large and round, robust growth, beautiful tree form

Chinese fan palm Livitonia chinensis R.Br. Palm family Umbrella Tree form single-trunked and upright, leaf surface dark green, robust growth, very beautiful posture

Longan tree Euphoria longana Lanark. Soapberry family Round Evergreen tree with round crown, strong canopy density, relatively slow growth, very beautiful posture

Chinaberry (neem) Melia azedarach Linn. Meliaceae Umbrella Deciduous tree, fast-growing, irregular crown, slightly umbrella-shaped, flowers pale purple

Chinese parasol tree Sterculia platanifolia L. Sterculiaceae Umbrella Evergreen tree, broad leaves, fast-growing, upright when young, crown spreading when old

Paper mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. Moraceae Umbrella Evergreen tree, leaves huge, soft and thin, branches spreading in all directions, umbrella-shaped crown, also beautiful in posture

Alder Alnus formosana Makino. Fagaceae Umbrella Evergreen tree, tolerant of moisture and heat, unsuitable for dry land and hard soil, tall and beautiful tree form

Ash tree Faxinus insularis Hemsl. Oleaceae Umbrella Evergreen tree, robust tree vigor, fast-growing, beautiful tree form and leaf shape Norfolk Island pine Araucaria cuninghamii Araucariaceae Conical Evergreen coniferous tree, sun-loving, prefers warm and hot climates, not cold-tolerant, fertilizer-loving, fast-growing, narrow conical crown, graceful posture

Qinghai spruce Picea carassifolia Pinaceae Tower-shaped Evergreen coniferous tree, neutral, shallow-rooted, suitable for the northwest region

Korean pine Pinus koraiensis Pinaceae Tower-shaped Evergreen coniferous tree, weakly sun-loving, prefers cool and humid climates and acidic soil, needles blue-green

Chinese juniper (Juniper) Sabina chinensis Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen coniferous tree, sun-loving, young trees slightly shade-tolerant, tolerant of drought and barren soil, cold-tolerant, slightly moisture-tolerant, tolerant of pruning, good dust-proofing and sound-insulating effect

Southern magnolia Magnolia grandiflora L. Magnoliaceae Oval Evergreen tree, flowers large, white, and fragrant, beautiful tree form,

Taiwan acacia Acacia confusa Merr. Fabaceae Umbrella Evergreen tree, bark smooth when young, rough when old, trunk mostly curved, strong growth

Date palm Phoenix dactylifera L. Palm family Feather-shaped Evergreen broad-leaved tree, trunk branching, strong heat resistance, robust growth, also beautiful in posture

Canary Island date palm Phoenix dactylifera Palm family Feather-shaped Evergreen broad-leaved tree, trunk thick and sturdy, tall and majestic, feather-like leaves dense and spreading,

Royal palm (Royal palm) Oreodoxa regia H.B.K. Palm family Umbrella Single trunk upright, can reach 18 m in height, slightly swollen in the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, high ornamental value

Ginkgo Ginkgo biloba Ginkgoaceae Umbrella Deciduous broad-leaved tree, autumn leaves yellow, cold-tolerant, deep-rooted, not tolerant of waterlogging, resistant to many toxic gases

Chinese tulip tree (Ma-gua tree) Liriodendron chinense Magnoliaceae Umbrella Deciduous broad-leaved tree, prefers warm and humid climates, relatively strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, fast-growing, long-lived, leaf shape resembles a mandarin jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.

Chinese white poplar Populus tomentosa Willow family Umbrella Deciduous broad-leaved tree, prefers cool climates, pollution-resistant, deep-rooted, fast-growing, relatively long-lived; tree form upright, trunk straight, bark gray-white

Lombardy poplar Populus nigra var. italica Willow family Narrow cylindrical Deciduous broad-leaved tree, cold-tolerant and drought-tolerant, slightly tolerant of salinity and waterlogging, fast-growing

Chinese elm Ulmus parvifolia Elm family Umbrella Deciduous broad-leaved tree, prefers warm and humid climates, tolerant of drought and barren soil, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long-lived, resistant to smoke, dust, and toxic gases, strong dust-retention ability

Box elder (Compound-leaf maple) Acer negundo Aceraceae Umbrella Deciduous broad-leaved tree, prefers fertile soil and cool, humid climates, tolerant of smoke and dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light salinity, tolerant of pruning, autumn leaves yellow {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

Table of Characteristics of Commonly Used Landscape Trees

Name Scientific name Family Tree shape Characteristics

Camphor tree Cinnamomun camphcra Camphor family Spherical Evergreen large tree, alternate leaves, three main veins, aromatic, berries spherical.

Plane tree Platanus x acerifolia Plane tree family Oval Prefers warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerant of pruning. Large crown with dense shade, suitable as a street tree and shade tree.

Southern magnolia Magnolia grandiflora L. Magnoliaceae Oval Evergreen tree, flowers large, white, and fragrant, beautiful tree form,

Magnolia denudata Magnolia denudata Magnoliaceae Umbrella Quite cold-tolerant, afraid of waterlogging. Flowers large, pure white, blooms March to April. Suitable for courtyard viewing.

Oriental arborvitae Thuja orientalis Linn Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen tree, tree form neat when young, mostly curved when old, strong growth, long-lived, beautiful tree form

Ash tree Faxinus insularis Hemsl. Oleaceae Round Evergreen tree, robust tree vigor, fast-growing, beautiful tree form and leaf shape Bischofia Bischoffia javanica Blanco Euphorbiaceae Round Evergreen tree, very beautiful when young leaves sprout, robust growth, beautiful tree form

Weeping willow Salix babylonica Linn. Willow family Umbrella Deciduous sub-tree, suitable for low-temperature areas, grows luxuriantly and rapidly, beautiful tree form

Weeping cypress Calocedrus macrolepis Kurz Cupressaceae Umbrella Evergreen tree, bark gray-brown, irregular longitudinal fissures; branchlets alternate, green when young, flat.

Royal palm Roystonea regia Palm family Umbrella Single trunk upright, can reach 18 m in height, slightly swollen in the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, high ornamental value

Large-leaved boxwood Euonymus japonica Celastraceae Oval Prefers warm and humid climates, resistant to toxic gases. Grown for foliage. Suitable for hedges and foundation planting.

Maple Liquidamdar formosana Hance. Witch hazel family Conical Deciduous tree, bark gray and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, beautiful tree form

Chinese wingnut Pterocarya stenoptera Walnut family Umbrella Strong adaptability, tolerant of waterlogging, fast-growing. Suitable as a shade tree, street tree, and bank-protection tree

Creeping juniper Sabina procumbens Cupressaceae Evergreen creeping dwarf shrub, branches and trunk creeping horizontally on the ground, leaves needle-like. Slow-growing, unique tree form, branches and leaves emerald green and smooth. Suitable for ground cover and beautification around courtyard stones, ponds, sand pits, slopes, etc. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

Duranta Duranta repens Verbenaceae Round Evergreen shrub. Suitable for large potted plants, flower troughs, hedges. Yellow-leaf duranta is mainly grown for foliage, widely used, can be used as ground cover, pruned into shapes, used to form patterns or emphasize color combinations, dazzling and eye-catching. Chinese holly Ilex cornuta Aquifoliaceae Round Resistant to toxic gases, slow-growing. Green leaves and red berries, very beautiful. Suitable for foundation planting. Paper mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. Moraceae Umbrella Evergreen tree, leaves huge, soft and thin, branches spreading in all directions, also beautiful in posture

Chinese juniper Juniperus Chinensis Linn Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen medium tree, branches densely grown, dark green, robust growth, suitable for pruning, beautiful tree form

Pittosporum Pittosporum tobira Pittosporaceae Round White flowers fragrant, blooms in May. Suitable for foundation planting, as a hedge, or potted. Date palm Phoenix dactylifera Linn Palm family Umbrella Trunk suckering, can reach 20-25 m in height, leaves gray-white with arching curvature, robust growth, beautiful tree form

Hankow willow Salix matsudana Willow family Umbrella Suitable as a shade tree, street tree, and bank-protection tree

Albizia Albizia julibrissin Mimosa family Umbrella Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as a shade ornamental tree and street tree

Black pine Pinus Thumbergii Porl. Pinaceae Conical Evergreen tree, bark gray-brown, branchlets orange-yellow, needles hard and in clusters of two, long-lived

Red-leaf plum Prunus cerasifera. F.arropurpurea Rosaceae Umbrella Deciduous small tree, branchlets smooth, red-brown, leaves ovate, entirely purplish red, blooms pale pink small flowers in April, drupe purple. Suitable for both solitary planting and group planting, as a backdrop.

Washington palm Washingtonia filifera H. Wendl. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single-stemmed cylindrical trunk, enlarged at the base, up to 4-8 m tall; leaf blade fan-shaped and round; robust growth, beautiful tree form {Maintenance measures for the southern plant Canary Island date palm}.

Japanese pagoda tree Sophora japonica Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Dense branches and leaves, broad crown; suitable as a shade tree and street tree

Yellow cassia Cassia glauca Lam. Fabaceae Round-shaped Deciduous tree, even-pinnately compound leaves, yellow flowers, rapid growth, beautiful tree form

Box elder (ash-leaved maple) Acer negundo Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree; prefers fertile soil and a cool, humid climate; tolerant of smoke and dust, dry cold, and light salinity-alkalinity; tolerant of pruning; yellow autumn leaves

Japanese maple Acer palmatum Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Elegant leaf shape, red autumn leaves. Suitable for garden viewing and pot culture.

Golden larch Pseudolarix amabilis Rehd. Pinaceae Ovate-tower-shaped Evergreen tree, branches and leaves spreading, leaves linear, alternate on long shoots, short shoots radiating; tree form upright and vigorous.

Bottle palm Hyophorbe amaricaulis Mart. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk about 3 m tall, base oval and swollen, forming a bottle shape; very beautiful posture

Mandarin orange tree Citrus reticulata Rutaceae Round-shaped Flowers white, fruit yellow-green, fragrant. Suitable for group planting.

Chinaberry tree Melia azedarach Linn. Meliaceae Round-shaped Deciduous tree, bark grayish brown, bipinnately odd compound leaves, purple flowers, rapid growth

Snowrose Serissa serissoides Rubiaceae Round-shaped Small evergreen shrub. Leaves dark green, flowers snow-white, slightly pale pink. Branches and leaves slender, fine texture; suitable for pot culture, low hedges, ground cover, flower beds, and pruning into shapes.

Dragon juniper Juniperus chinensis var. Kaituka, Hort Cupressaceae Upright tower-shaped Medium evergreen tree, branches densely borne, dark green, vigorous growth, very long-lived, very beautiful tree form

Dragon-claw pagoda tree S. j. cv. Pendula Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches pendulous; suitable for garden viewing, paired planting or row planting

Dragon-claw willow S. m. cv. Tortuosa Salicaceae Round-shaped Branches twisted like a roaming dragon; suitable as a shade tree and ornamental tree

Roebelen's palm Phoenix roebelenii Brien. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk upright, 2 m tall; petioles thin and small, leaflets alternate or opposite; an excellent variety with beautiful leaves

Buddhist pine Podocarpus macrophyllus D. Don Podocarpaceae Long-conical Evergreen tree, simple and elegant in form; can be pruned as high-grade bonsai material, or shaped into round, conical, or tiered forms for garden landscaping and beautification.

Masson pine Pinus massoniana Lamb. Pinaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, trunk bark reddish brown, winter buds brown; large trees have a majestic posture

Sacred bamboo Nandina domestica Berberidaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches and leaves elegant, red fruit in autumn and winter; for garden viewing, can be group planted or potted. Hoop pine Araucaria excelsa Br. Araucariaceae Conical Evergreen coniferous tree, branches whorled, lower ones pendulous, leaves dark green; beautiful tree form, vigorous growth

Glossy privet Ligustrum lucidum Oleaceae Ovate White flowers, blooming in June. Suitable as a hedge or street tree.

Chinese fan palm Livistona chinensis R. Br. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk upright, can reach 6-12 m tall; leaves round, petiole margins spiny; luxuriant growth, elegant posture

Globe juniper Juniperus chinensis cv. Globosa. Cupressaceae Broadly round Shrub, without a main trunk, branches clustered.

Green maple Acer serrulatum Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped conical Deciduous tree. Trunk upright. Tree form light and graceful; can be trained into a noble-shaped bonsai; an elegant street tree, landscape tree, and forest-bathing tree.

Box-leaved holly B. bodinieri Buxaceae Ovate Branches and leaves fine and dense; suitable for garden viewing. Can be group planted, used as a hedge, or potted. Japanese cedar Cryptomeria japonica D. Don Taxodiaceae Conical, ovate, round Evergreen tree. Branches whorled, graceful

Chapter Eight: "Cultivation and Maintenance of Palm Family Plants"

The palm family is a very distinctive group of evergreen plants in the monocotyledon class; their stems are solitary or clustered, upright or climbing; leaves are clustered at the top of the stem; the root system is well developed, with strong drought tolerance, barren tolerance, and resistance to pests and diseases, and they produce outstanding effects in creating tropical-style garden landscapes. This edition will introduce their introduction, transplanting, and disease control.

Brief Introduction to the Introduction Process

There are 183 genera and about 2,400 species of palm family plants worldwide, widely distributed in the tropical and subtropical humid regions of the world. High temperature and high humidity are important conditions for the normal growth and development of most palm plants; a few palm plants have unique adaptability to adverse environments, such as the silver date palm (wild date palm) distributed in extremely arid areas at the edge of deserts, and many palm species that can tolerate long-term water immersion, such as the swamp palm. Most palm plants are rich in fibers, with tough stems and well-developed root systems, and have strong wind resistance, such as the Alexander palm and Chinese fan palm.

Since the 1940s, in the construction of many tropical and subtropical cities around the world, the landscape effects of palm plants have been recognized, and they have been used as key varieties for urban greening and beautification, such as in Miami in the United States, Jakarta in India, Bangkok in Thailand, as well as Cape Town in South Africa and Singapore.

Some landscaping companies in Guangdong began the work of introducing and applying palm plants in the early 1980s. Over the following more than twenty years, southern provinces and regions such as Guangxi, Fujian, and Yunnan, as well as later Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shanghai, Chongqing, and Yunnan, successively set off a boom in the introduction, production, and application of palms.

Led by several units including Guangdong Palm Landscape Company, based on theories of plant geography and ecology, through observational research on the growth and mortality of introduced and acclimatized palm family plants, it was found that plants native to the Northern Hemisphere generally have cold resistance potential because they experienced ancient glacial climates, while species native to high-latitude, high-altitude areas of the Southern Hemisphere also have relatively strong cold resistance. Through research on the cold resistance and cold-resistance mechanisms of palm plants, researchers found that the main factors affecting introduction and acclimatization are: temperature, light, humidity, moisture, and soil. The most significant effect of the temperature factor is to govern plant growth and development; low winter temperatures are the leading factor affecting the success or failure of palm plant introduction and acclimatization. Through research on the salt tolerance and shade tolerance of palms, researchers screened out a group of varieties with relatively strong saline-alkali tolerance and shade tolerance; at the same time, through the control of diseases and pests such as palm Phytophthora disease, coconut leaf beetle, and red palm weevil, the incidence of palm pests and diseases was greatly reduced. In addition, researchers also studied the mechanism of palm seed germination, summarized and invented techniques for accelerating palm seed germination, mastered full-crown transplanting of palm plants and cultivation techniques for large-specification container seedlings, and did effective work on techniques such as soil improvement and winter cold protection and conservation.

At present, researchers have screened and promoted about 80 species of palm plants in South China, including royal palm, Chinese fan palm, broadleaf lady palm, southern palm, and fishtail palm; in Shanghai and surrounding areas, the palm family plants successfully applied mainly include Butia palm, hairy Washington palm, Canary Island date palm, Washington palm, and more than ten other species. The related research techniques have been appraised by experts as having reached the world's advanced level.

Taking the Washington palm as an example

Discussing the Occurrence and Control of Phytophthora Disease

Damage and General Symptoms of Palm Phytophthora Disease

This disease often occurs and causes damage on palm plants such as royal palm, large Chinese fan palm, Washington palm, Mexican fan palm, and Canary Island date palm. On affected plants, the central leaves cannot emerge normally, new leaves shrink and dry up, and in severe cases the entire plant withers in patches. The pathogen of Phytophthora disease is caused by Phytophthora and can be detected by culture in an incubator. The pathogen mainly overwinters in the soil or on diseased plant residues. The bacteria spread through watering, rain splash, and air movement.

Occurrence Pattern of Washington Palm Phytophthora Disease

This disease occurs during periods of high temperature and high humidity in summer and autumn. Drought followed by rain, or poor management after transplanting, such as heavy watering, soil moisture content

suddenly increasing, poor ventilation, or plants located in wind gaps are prone to infection. The disease is severe in low-lying, poorly drained, and continuous-cropping plots. In addition, the disease is often related to severe root injury caused during seedling digging and then long-distance transport.

When it occurs, the base of the unexpanded young central leaf rots, and the leaves become grayish green and droop, and they can be pulled out with slight force. When the stem is dissected, the growing point and even the entire central part of the plant can be seen to have paste-like secretions and a foul odor, and white mold-like growth can appear on infected tissues. Severely affected plants also often show root damage, with the main symptoms being blackened and rotted roots and an abnormal

odor. This disease mainly occurs at the seedling stage and in nurseries; adult trees planted in green spaces are less often affected.

Symptoms

In recent years, the damage in nursery fields has been relatively severe. In the early stage of the disease, yellowish-brown water-soaked lesions first appear near the ground, and the lesions rapidly expand, are slightly sunken, and in humid conditions a dense white cottony mold grows on the surface, and the diseased part rots and smells foul. When it occurs on leaves, the diseased part is yellowish brown, and white mold grows under humid conditions. When it occurs on stems, it is initially dark green, then expands, becomes moist and soft, and in the later stage the upper part appears withered. This disease can damage the entire palm plant. Sometimes purulent liquid exudes when the root system and stem are cut open, and in severe cases the margins of the veins of young leaves carry a large amount of gray-black mycelium. Phytophthora disease is a vascular bundle disease; in severe cases the entire plant wilts, droops, dries up, and eventually dies, with a high mortality rate.

According to surveys, the peak period of this disease is mostly during high temperature and high humidity, that is, the optimum temperature is 27°C to 35°C. For example, in 2006, the disease period in coastal areas near the Pearl River Delta was from July to October, in Xiamen from August to November, in Shanghai from June to September (also occurring in early spring), and in the mountainous areas of western Pearl River Delta from August to November, but in all places the disease can be seen within 1 to 2 months after typhoons and rainstorms, sometimes occurring sporadically and sometimes appearing in patches.

Control Methods

I. Preventive Cultivation Measures

1. Pay attention to ventilation, dryness, and drainage in the nursery. In autumn and winter each year, leaves can be moderately pruned, and pits can be opened in the planting site and soil mounded, so as to keep the nursery land dry. Usually, potassium fertilizer can be applied additionally, and quicklime, superphosphate, etc. can also be applied separately, to enhance the density of plant tissues and resistance to infection, and improve the disease resistance of plants.

2. Choose a good plot: select loam or sandy loam plots with high terrain and good drainage for planting.

3. Implement crop rotation: for land where Washington palms have been planted, crop rotation of three to four years or more is required.

4. Strengthen field management, apply more organic fertilizer, promote robust plant growth with deep roots and luxuriant leaves, and improve resistance. Implement high-ridge (bed) cultivation. Appropriately control watering in the rainy season, drain water promptly after rain so that the ground dries after rain; water promptly in drought, and strictly prohibit flood irrigation when watering, and carry out watering on sunny afternoons or in the evening.

5. Achieve prevention first and integrated control. Observe carefully at ordinary times, often prune dead branches and fallen leaves, and when diseased plants are found, clean them up promptly, bury them deeply or burn them, and disinfect the disease holes with lime.

II. Chemical Control

One to two months before the onset of disease in summer and during the disease period, use 64% oxadixyl-mancozeb wettable powder (1:500 to 600), 80% fosetyl-aluminum (1:400), or other hymexazol-type products such as carbendazim-like soil fungicide, namely soil fungicide (usual amount 600 to 700 times), lime-sulfur mixture (1:1:100), and dexon (500 times), etc. for control. Specific control methods: when transplanting Washington palms, first spray the planting site and Washington palm roots with 600 to 700 times soil fungicide solution, or first dig pits and expose them to the sun for sterilization during consecutive sunny days, or spread lime powder for disinfection, or use 500 times dexon solution for soil disinfection.

After a typhoon, promptly spray oxadixyl-mancozeb (better) or fosetyl-aluminum (prone to resistance), add 0.4% washing powder and pour into the heart or spray for prevention and treatment. It can also be sprayed with 700 times 80% mancozeb, once every 7 to 10 days, spraying two or three times in succession, which can effectively prevent and control the occurrence of Phytophthora disease. After adopting this measure, the Washington palms and hairy Washington palms at the Shanghai base of Guangdong Palm Landscape Company have dropped from a disease incidence of 20% in 2004 to below 10%.

Experience in Control

The control effect of using carbendazim and the like is not obvious. If all leaves are cut off in the early stage of plant disease and the plant is transplanted elsewhere, about 30% can gradually revive after 2 to 3 years, but the growth is poor.

It is understood that this disease rarely occurs in high-temperature dry areas such as Los Angeles, so this disease is related to high temperature and high humidity, and the infection route is through surface water, groundwater, and rainwater, etc. When plant roots, trunks, and leaves are damaged, the pathogen invades and multiplies greatly when moisture is sufficient, ultimately causing blockage of the vascular conducting tissues, and the plant wilts and dies from water loss. The heart rot disease introduced in some literature is actually also Phytophthora disease, only occurring at the central leaf part.

This disease is different from anthracnose; the latter occurs on leaves, with small water-soaked spots appearing at onset, then expanding into larger lesions, and is easy to find, and generally can be controlled with agents such as carbendazim. As for leaf spot disease, it refers to diseases occurring on leaves, with common pathogens such as Phyllosticta and Pestalotiopsis, often causing leaf blight, but anthracnose and leaf spot disease rarely cause plant death. Transplanting Techniques for Large Single-Stemmed Seedlings

Preparation Before Transplanting

1. Root-prune the seedlings to be transplanted in advance. After root pruning, the soil ball size is twice the ground diameter, and the root-pruning depth is 50 cm to 60 cm. After root pruning, stones and broken roots should be removed from the soil and it should be backfilled promptly, and moisture should be maintained well: the purpose is to exercise the adaptability of the seedling and promote new root growth. After root pruning, it is best to keep them for more than 30 days and transplant only when new roots begin to sprout. If using heeled-in seedlings, the effect is even better.

2. Dig holes and prepare the soil. The planting site should have holes dug 20 days before transplanting, and the hole specification is generally 1.5 times the soil ball. The soil from digging the holes should be exposed to the sun in the open for a period, and the backfill soil is best a pre-prepared mixed soil: pond mud + farmyard manure or mushroom soil + an appropriate amount of matured phosphate fertilizer + an appropriate amount of river sand, with sand:soil at 4:6.

Planting Time

In the Pearl River Delta region, transplanting can be done throughout the year, with spring and autumn being best; try to avoid summer and winter, especially January and July. Most palm family plants like warmth and humidity. In summer, temperatures are high, seedlings evaporate water quickly, and it is easy to cause excessive water loss and affect survival; in winter, temperatures are low, some places even have frost, and strong north winds can easily cause frost injury or even death of seedlings.

Moving Seedlings

Some large single-stemmed palm family seedlings have relatively thick trunks, and moving seedlings is labor-intensive, and the seedlings are very easily injured. Therefore, when moving seedlings, the trunk should be wrapped with burlap sacks or straw, especially the green wrapped trunk portion at the boundary between the trunk and petioles. This protects the trunk and also maintains moisture and prevents sunburn. In addition, when lifting seedlings, combine with pruning leaves, remove old leaves, and retain 40% to 45% of the leaves (specifically depending on tree vigor). At the same time, cut off the leaves together with the petioles by 1/5, to minimize water evaporation.

Planting

It is best to plant seedlings on the same day they are dug; if the time is too long, seedlings lose a lot of water and are prone to water loss affecting survival. If they cannot all be planted on the same day, cover them with shade netting and spray a small amount of water on the leaf surfaces every day, and do well in shading and moisture retention.

1. Backfilling soil: Once the seedling is positioned, backfill soil. When backfilling to half the height of the soil ball, first compact the loose soil. After backfilling is completed, make the soil mound into a "water storage basin" slightly higher around the edges and slightly lower in the middle, to facilitate watering and moisture retention.

2. Watering: Immediately after backfilling, water thoroughly to settle the roots. Before watering, first use bamboo poles, etc. to poke and firm the loose soil around the soil ball until the loose soil no longer sinks.

3. Fixing: There are many kinds of supports. Using three bamboo poles to form a triangular support is the most economical and practical one. Tie at a height of 2/3 of the trunk.

Post-Planting Management

1. Moisture retention: Spray the leaves and trunk wrapping twice a day, except on rainy days, just enough to wet the leaves and trunk wrapping. Do not water the roots, because excess water will flow downward and accumulate, causing root rot. Cover the area around the tree base with straw to prevent sunburn, prevent soil compaction caused by excessive soil temperature differences, and keep the soil around the soil ball loose, moist, and aerated, which helps new roots sprout.

2. Wind protection: Because transplanted large single-stemmed palm plants are generally taller and are often affected by thunderstorms and strong winds after transplanting, regularly check after planting whether the supports have loosened. Especially after strong winds, if the trunk is found to be leaning, straighten and tie it promptly.

3. Topdressing: About one month after planting, urea water can be used for foliar topdressing by spraying, once about every half month. After the first new leaf grows and matures, use fully decomposed peanut bran for hole fertilization. Dig holes by opening a ring-shaped trench outside the edge of the soil ball, with trench width and depth each 30 cm, and the fertilizer and backfill soil must be mixed evenly.

4. Pest and disease control: Newly transplanted large single-stemmed palm seedlings are relatively weak in tree vigor and very prone to pest and disease damage, especially young leaves and central leaves. For insect control, 5% methamidophos plus 5% omethoate can be applied. At present, the invasive pest "coconut leaf beetle" is quite serious in its damage to palm family plants. Adults and larvae gather in the overlapping spaces of the unexpanded central leaves and chew the leaf flesh, causing some or all of the newly emerged leaves to die, and affected plants grow slowly or even die. Control methods include the following: ① 81% malathion emulsifiable concentrate 1000 times; ② cypermethrin 500 times; ③ use "Yejiaqing", all of which can achieve good control effects. According to actual operation, the author believes that the simplest, most convenient, and long-lasting method is to hang a packet of "Yejiaqing" on the central leaf during planting together with tying.

For large single-stemmed palm seedlings, about one month after planting, whether they have survived can be roughly determined based on whether the leaves remain green, but to truly determine survival, generally one must wait until after one growing season, using whether new shoots and new roots have emerged as the standard. After the author adopted the above transplanting techniques in construction, the transplanting survival rate increased from the original 75% to more than 90%, and the above techniques are highly operable and necessary to promote and apply.

Transplanting Techniques for Seedlings, Large Trees, and Clustered Seedlings

Key Techniques for Transplanting Seedlings

Palm plants are most suitable for transplanting during a period after germination and rooting. At this time the seedlings are smaller, can be transplanted with seeds, and in addition have few fibrous roots, so the root system is not easily damaged when moving seedlings. Using nutritional bags for seedling cultivation, the size depends on the time for cultivating the seedlings. Generally speaking, 1-year-old seedlings are suitable with 16 cm x 18 cm containers, and 2-year-old seedlings with 19 cm x 20 cm. Nutritional bags that are too small are not conducive to rapid seedling growth. The nutritional soil is prepared with loose topsoil, burned soil, and wheat bran, mixed evenly in a 5:2:1 ratio with a small amount of phosphate fertilizer, and then bagged. First fill half the bag with mixed soil, then place the seedling, then straighten the seedling, fill it full, and compact it, so that the seedling root system is closely attached to the mixed soil, and then water thoroughly. Palm plants cannot be planted too deep, otherwise it will affect seedling growth. If too deep, the seedling should be lifted upward so that the seedling root system spreads out.

Key Techniques for Transplanting Large Trees

Palm family plants cultivated in nurseries for 5 to 10 years mostly require several rounds of bed-to-bed transplanting, so selecting widely spaced, robust seedlings gives a relatively high survival rate.

Reduce damage to the root mass: Palm plant root tissues are tender, with many lateral roots and capillary roots. When digging, carry as large a soil ball as possible and prevent it from loosening and cracking. Minimize damage to the root mass as much as possible, so as to maintain normal respiration and water absorption capacity and improve transplanting survival rate. During construction, set out lines and define holes accurately to avoid rework and prevent the soil ball from loosening.

Leaf pruning: The amount of leaves retained during transplanting should be comprehensively determined according to different species, the climate at transplanting, and transplanting and maintenance conditions.

Generally, about 40% of the original number of leaves should be retained. Retaining too many leaves will cause the leaves to yellow and wither due to high water evaporation; retaining too few leaves will make plant recovery difficult and the cycle long, and the initial landscape effect will also be poor.

Protect the plant trunk and its pseudostem: During digging, transport, loading, and unloading of the plant, the trunk should be protected from damage, and the pseudostem part should not be squeezed or bent. This is the guarantee of plant health and rapid rejuvenation.

Soil at the new planting site: Palm family plants damage root tips during transplanting, and it is difficult for new root tips to sprout within one month after transplanting, so water absorption capacity is weak. At this time, good soil permeability and aeration are conducive to seedling survival, so when planting, large holes should be dug and attention should be paid to the quality of the replacement soil, adding peat soil and compound fertilizer, to facilitate palm recovery after planting.

Maintenance: Within one month after planting, the plant has poor adaptability, and the seedling should be carefully maintained. Be sure to replenish water promptly and shade appropriately, and strive to have new leaves sprout within three months. If continuous rainy weather occurs after transplanting, palm seedlings will recover relatively well, because rainy days can avoid the adverse effects of scorching sun exposure.

Key Techniques for Transplanting Large Clustered Seedlings

Clustered palm family plants have multiple growth points, and after growing into a multi-stemmed clustered state, they can grow new roots relatively quickly after transplanting. However, clustered palms also have disadvantages such as large water evaporation due to heavy trunks and large leaf area, and susceptibility to strong wind damage due to poor ventilation. Therefore, in addition to handling them according to single-stemmed palm transplanting, the following technical measures should be added:

1. Implement "hairy root method" transplanting: that is, after digging a relatively large soil ball, use a small shovel to remove part of the soil along the outer edge of the soil ball, retain more fibrous roots and a moderate soil ball, and immediately wrap it with a lightweight moisture-retaining material, so as to reduce the weight of the soil ball while ensuring survival. For example, this method can be used for transplanting clustered palms that recover relatively slowly, such as fishtail palm and three-stamen areca.

2. Implement bare-root heel-in or potting for centralized maintenance until new roots sprout and the plant stabilizes before formal planting. This method is suitable for rough-growing clustered palms such as areca palm, Ptychosperma, and Hawaiian palm, and can reduce transport costs and facilitate construction.

In short, for transplanting large seedlings and large trees of palm family plants, in brief, do well in five aspects, namely: select robust seedlings; dig good soil balls and transport them carefully; moderately prune leaves; ensure aeration and drainage at the planting site; and do well in post-planting maintenance, especially sun protection and moisture retention. The sign of successful transplanting of large seedlings and large trees is being able to retain most leaves within half a year after planting and to sprout new leaves, among which sprouting three healthy new leaves is complete transplanting success

Drainage: First understand the hydrological conditions of the planting site, and try to place the very bottom of the soil ball at a position 100-150 cm above the year-round groundwater level of the planting site and with thick fertile soil, and at the same time make a drainage layer for the soil ball roots underground and a surface runoff guidance network, to prevent water accumulation in the soil ball after planting. If the hydrological conditions cannot meet the requirements, the method of planting with a raised soil ball can be used, that is, use loose media mixed with fertile soil or use coarse sand to first raise the planting site as much as possible to meet the above requirements, then place the plant on the soil mound, and bury the soil ball with mixed loose soil or planting soil mixed with humus soil; remove debris from the soil around the planting site, or appropriately improve the soil with loose media, so as to achieve loose and breathable conditions for the plant roots; strengthen inspections during the rainy season, promptly clear drainage facilities and appropriately loosen the soil around the roots, to facilitate waterlogging prevention and drainage accumulation removal. Moisture retention: Immediately after planting, water once to settle the roots, ensuring that the soil ball roots are moist and closely combined with the surrounding soil, promoting root development, and then water thoroughly three more times and promptly cover the soil ball to prevent the surface soil from cracking. In hot summer, spray more water on the ground and tree crown to increase environmental humidity and reduce transpiration; leaf moisture retention treatments include a. newly planted seedlings should have leaves properly pruned to reduce the transpiration area of leaves; b. appropriately spray antitranspirants on leaves to inhibit plant physiological metabolism and reduce physiological water loss of plants; c. under sunny weather conditions, spray atomized water on leaves as much as possible to strengthen leaf water absorption and weaken transpiration; check the moisture status of the soil ball and roots at any time and replenish water promptly, ensuring the moisture of the soil ball and the permeability of root respiration. Fertilization: In addition to maintaining moisture for the plant after planting, appropriately spray low-concentration foliar fertilizer to strengthen post-planting nutritional supplementation; frequently check the root sprouting status of the plant. If new roots are found growing, consider increasing root fertilization, generally choosing a season when the monthly average temperature is above 20°C, applying mainly organic fertilizer as much as possible, and appropriately adding compound fertilizer with high P and K content, to promote balanced plant nutrition and ensure rapid recovery and healthy growth. Pest and disease control: Spray chemicals before seedlings leave the nursery to control pests and diseases, and after arriving at the site, the plant also needs to be sprayed before unloading, and ensure continuous application three times within one month after planting at intervals of one week to ten days, and then a reasonable pest and disease control plan also needs to be formulated. Special

Chapter Nine: "Maintenance Plan"

Landscaping of Shidalien (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd.

Main

ten

ance

Plan

Nanjing Gensen Flowers and Trees Co., Ltd.

October 8, 2010

Project Overview

"Shidalien (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd." is located at No. 31 Hengfei Road, Nanjing Economic and Technological Development Zone, with a factory green space area of 28,186 sq m. The plant configuration in the factory green space is relatively reasonable, rich in color, and with obvious seasonal changes, forming a plant community with distinct layers and natural ecology, basically displaying the natural landscape of plants. The arrangement of plant flowers, shrubs, and hedges between the factory buildings gives each factory area a different landscape style. Dozens of plant varieties have been planted in the factory area, including camphor, southern magnolia, zelkova, osmanthus, and crape myrtle, among which there is a tree-lined avenue composed of large-specification camphor, and scenic spots at the gatehouse composed of varieties such as ancient red maple, fruiting pomegranate, Xifu crabapple, ginkgo, and Canary Island date palm.

In view of the existing situation of the factory green landscape, we believe that the initial greening construction was relatively extensive, and the understanding of plant habits was insufficient, especially the replacement of planting soil in the green space was not in place, and in some areas the garbage soil was not replaced, resulting in poor plant growth.

Greening Maintenance Plan Arrangement

January (Minor Cold, Major Cold)

1. Shaping and pruning of fruit trees.

2. Often pay attention to checking cold protection equipment, facilities, and seedling cold protection wrappings.

3. Plow the land for winter cultivation and apply sufficient winter fertilizer.

4. Cut off dead, damaged, diseased, and pest-infested branches and leaves, and thoroughly remove overwintering bagworm cases, slug moth cocoons, and latent overwintering pests.

February (Start of Spring, Rain Water)

1. Continue winter pruning of deciduous trees and fruit trees.

2. Continue cutting off diseased and pest-infested branches, and pay attention to observing the occurrence of pests and diseases (such as cottony cushion scale, giant mealybug, etc.).

3. Continue accumulating fertilizer and making compost, preparing culture soil, and continue applying winter fertilizer to various deciduous trees. March (Awakening of Insects, Spring Equinox)

The weather gradually warms, and many pests and diseases are about to occur. Maintain and repair various insecticidal and disease-prevention equipment and prepare medicines. Pay attention to the occurrence of aphids and giant mealybugs, and achieve timely control. April (Pure Brightness, Grain Rain)

1. Do well in the control of pests such as scale insects, mites, cutworms, white grubs, and mole crickets, as well as powdery mildew and rust.

2. Do well in loosening soil, weeding, and pre-flowering fertilization. Apply thin fertilizer weekly to perennial flowers and spring-sown herbaceous flowers.

3. Do well in bud removal and pruning of trees. Remove excess tender buds and improperly positioned branches at any time.

4. Dredge and repair the drainage system.

May (Start of Summer, Grain Full)

1. Perform post-flowering pruning and hedge pruning on shrubs that bloom in spring. According to technical operation requirements, carry out bud removal and pruning on trees, and promptly prune and remove root sprouts of small seedlings that produce suckers.

2. Continue to strengthen tree maintenance and management, do well in replanting, thinning, and final spacing of seedlings, apply more topdressing, and apply thin fertilizer frequently.

3. This month temperatures gradually rise, and pests and diseases cause extensive damage to trees and flowers. Attention should be paid to forecasting and monitoring pest outbreaks, and pest and disease prevention work should be carried out well.

4. Carry out lawn rolling and mowing, and continue to remove weeds from the lawn.

June (Grain in Ear, Summer Solstice)

1. This month enters the plum rain season, with high temperatures and high humidity, so replanting should be carried out promptly.

2. Carry out post-bloom pruning and fertilization for flowering shrubs, and pinch and prune some spring-sown herbaceous flowers.

3. Continue to remove weeds, and continue rolling and mowing.

4. Do a good job in pest and disease control. This month focus on controlling pests such as bagworms, slug moths, tussock moths, inchworms, and tortoise wax scales, as well as leaf spot disease, anthracnose, and sooty mold.

July (Minor Heat, Major Heat)

1. The weather this month is hot, and weeds grow quickly. Continue intertillage and weeding, and loosen the soil.

2. Pests such as bagworms, slug moths, longhorn beetles, tortoise wax scales, armored scales, the second generation of cottony cushion scales, and mites occur in large numbers. Attention should be paid to their control, while continuing to control anthracnose, powdery mildew, leaf spot disease, and others.

3. During the dog days, temperatures are high. When there is little rain, irrigation is needed to combat drought. This month is also a month with more heavy rain, so attention should be paid to preventing waterlogging.

4. This month enters the typhoon and tidal flood season, so typhoon and flood prevention work should be done well, with frequent inspections and timely righting of wind-thrown trees.

August (Beginning of Autumn, End of Heat)

1. Continue intertillage and weeding, and loosen the soil.

2. Continue doing a good job in drought prevention and drainage to ensure the normal growth of seedlings.

3. This month the seedlings grow vigorously, so timely topdressing should be applied. For small seedlings, apply light fertilizer frequently.

4. Continue doing a good job in typhoon and flood prevention, and promptly right wind-thrown trees when found.

5. Continue doing a good job in pest and disease control, and conscientiously control the main pests harmful to trees (bagworms, second-generation slug moths, longhorn beetles, mites, etc.) and main diseases (powdery mildew, anthracnose, leaf spot disease, etc.).

September (White Dew, Autumn Equinox)

1. Continue to do a good job in pest and disease elimination; in particular, frequently inspect for the occurrence of aphids, wood borers, and others, and once found, control them immediately.

2. Continue intertillage and weeding, continue removing weeds from the lawn, carry out lawn rolling and mowing, and carry out shaping and pruning of topiary and hedges.

3. Continue to do a good job in pest and disease control. In particular, inspect the more frequently occurring pests and diseases such as aphids, bagworms, slug moths, brown spot disease, and sooty mold on flowering shrubs, and control them promptly.

October (Cold Dew, Frost's Descent)

1. Do a good job in pest and disease control, and eliminate various adult insects and eggs.

2. Continue intertillage and weeding.

3. After seedlings stop growing, check the survival rate, gain a clear understanding of the stock, and ensure the smooth progress of winter and spring greening work.

November (Beginning of Winter, Minor Snow)

1. Do a good job in cold protection, whitewash some trees, or wrap them with straw rope.

2. Carry out winter pruning of trees, cutting off diseased branches and dead branches; branches with insect eggs as well as competing branches and exces

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