Cultivation methods and precautions for Ligustrum quihoui (small-leaf privet): plenty of light is required

Ligustrum quihoui is a small shrub of the genus Ligustrum in the family Oleaceae, and it can be seen in many regions of our country. However, if you want to grow it well, there are many points to pay attention to. How do you grow Ligustrum quihoui? What are the cultivation methods and precautions for Ligustrum quihoui? Below, the editor will walk you through it.

1. How to grow Ligustrum quihoui: understand its habits

To know how to grow Ligustrum quihoui, we first need to understand its growth habits. This plant has strong environmental adaptability; it likes to grow in environments with plenty of light, also has some shade tolerance, and is fairly cold-tolerant, so when cultivating it we do not need to deliberately create conditions too much. Just place it in a spot with light for cultivation.

2. Cultivation methods and precautions for Ligustrum quihoui

1. Soil: sandy soil

Before growing Ligustrum quihoui, we first need to choose the soil. Just like building a house, this is the step of laying a solid foundation and is very important. Generally, it is best to choose loose, fertile sandy soil. This kind of soil has good drainage and aeration, allows the plant to absorb nutrients better, and is not prone to water accumulation.

2. Fertilizing: once each in spring and autumn

This plant, Ligustrum quihoui, does not have a very high demand for fertilizer. Basically, fertilizing once each in spring and autumn every year is enough. If individual parts show poor growth, then we should apply foliar topdressing. As for fertilizer, we generally use potassium dihydrogen phosphate and ammonium molybdate foliar fertilizers.

3. Temperature: 20-30°C

If we want Ligustrum quihoui to grow better, then we had best let it grow in a suitable environment. Its suitable temperature is 20-30°C. This plant has a certain cold tolerance. If it is grown in the south, we can let it overwinter outdoors. However, in the north, because the weather is drier and also colder, we had best overwinter it indoors to avoid the plant being damaged by frost.

4. Water: keep the soil moist

During the growth process of Ligustrum quihoui, water is an indispensable nutrient, so when cultivating it we should pay attention to watering regularly to keep the soil somewhat moist; only then can it grow more vigorously. However, we must pay special attention to the amount of watering. Do not water too much. If water accumulates, it can easily cause root rot.

5. Light: avoid strong light

This plant, Ligustrum quihoui, is fairly light-loving, but it is not tolerant of strong light. In spring and autumn, because the light is relatively suitable, we can grow it outdoors and let it receive light all day. However, in summer, because the light is relatively intense, we had best keep it in a semi-shaded place to avoid the plant being scorched.

6. Pruning: cut off dead branches and weak branches

In the process of growing Ligustrum quihoui, we also need to prune it regularly, cutting off some overly dense branches as well as dead, diseased, and weak branches. This can not only maintain the plant's shape, but also help ventilation and light penetration, while also promoting branching.

7. Pests and diseases: prevent and control promptly

When growing Ligustrum quihoui, if we are not careful enough, pests and diseases can easily take advantage of the situation. Such problems are very harmful to plants, and when we discover them we must deal with them promptly. The specific treatment methods are introduced in detail in the article on pest and disease control for Ligustrum quihoui. Friends who are interested can take a look.

How to grow Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum'? Cultivation methods and precautions for Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum'

Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum', also known as Chuxue ge, variegated star jasmine, etc., is a woody climbing plant of the genus Trachelospermum in the family Apocynaceae. The leaves of Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum' are rich in color, composed of red leaves, pink-red leaves, pure white leaves, variegated leaves, and green leaves, and have good ornamental value. So, how do you grow Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum'? The cultivation methods and precautions for Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum' are introduced below.

Image: Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum'

1. Cultivation methods for Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum'

1. Fertilizer:Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum' likes fertilizer but is not demanding; all kinds of fertilizers can be used. It can still bloom without fertilizing for a year, but the number of flowers will be somewhat fewer. For potted Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum', if you want it to bloom profusely, you can apply more bone meal and phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, and use less nitrogen fertilizer. For ground-planted Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum', applying a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer once each in spring and autumn is enough, and no fertilizer is applied in winter and summer.

2. Watering:Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum' likes moisture. During the growing season, the potting soil should be kept slightly moist. In spring and autumn, water once every two days; in summer, water once a day; in winter, water about once every half month. The potting soil should be slightly moist but not dry; at no time should it become waterlogged. For potted Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum' placed on rooftop gardens or courtyards, pay attention to draining accumulated water during the rainy season. Ground-planted Trachelospermum should not be planted in low-lying areas, otherwise the roots are prone to rot. During the growing season, it is not too late to water again when the soil looks dry. In winter, ground-planted specimens may not need watering.

3. Pruning:Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum' is tolerant of pruning and stays evergreen all year round. It can also be combined with golden-leaf privet and red-leaf barberry for color-band and color-block greening. Controlling vine length through pruning can promote branching and help create a full plant shape. The first pruning is done when the vine reaches 8 cm in length, leaving about 6 cm and cutting off the rest. After that, prune every time it grows 4-5 cm. Usually 2-3 prunings are enough to achieve a good pot shape.

Image: Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum'

4. Light:Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum' is a temperate-zone flower that likes warmth and light. For ground planting, it should be planted in a sunny spot; in shady places it grows poorly, has fewer flowers and a faint fragrance, or even no flowers. For potted plants, in spring, autumn, and winter it should be placed in a spot with ample sunlight. In midsummer, if placed in a semi-shaded spot where it can see the sun in the morning or evening and avoid direct strong sunlight at noon, it will bloom continuously. If it is too sunny at noon, the flowers will be sparse, or even absent. Trachelospermum is relatively cold-tolerant. In the Yellow River basin and areas to its south, it can overwinter safely outdoors; in the north, it is still better to move it into a low-temperature room for winter.

5. Pests and diseases:The main diseases of Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum' include anthracnose and leaf spot. Use a 600-800 times dilution of 50% thiophanate-methyl, or an 800-1000 times dilution of 70% mancozeb wettable powder for control. For damage by mites such as red spider mites and moth larvae, use a 1000-1500 times dilution of 15% pyridaben for control. For aphids, use a 1500 times dilution of 25% imidacloprid wettable powder or a 2000-3000 times dilution of 48% chlorpyrifos emulsifiable concentrate for control.

Image: Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum'

2. Precautions for growing Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum'

1. Soil:Loose, fertile loam with high humus content is best. During the cultivation of seedlings and finished seedlings, treatment should differ according to production goals.

2. Water and fertilizer:Mainly apply nitrogen fertilizer, either by foliar spraying or root drenching, to increase growth. From March to August, it can also be fertilized, which will further promote plant growth. From September to early October, appropriate topdressing can also be carried out to promote the plant's sturdiness.

Image: Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum'

3. Pruning:Starting in October, pruning must be stopped.

4. Pests and diseases:Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum' has bright leaf colors and is easily harmed by aphids, so aphid control work should be done well.

[Editor's concluding remarks]Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum' is a plant that likes light and is slightly shade-tolerant. It likes environments with high air humidity, so special attention is needed during care. The above introduced the cultivation methods and precautions for Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum'. We hope it can be helpful to everyone!

Cultivation methods and precautions for Osmanthus fragrans (sweet olive)

Common cultivated varieties of Osmanthus include Dan Gui, Jin Gui, Yin Gui, and Siji Gui. Different varieties of Osmanthus bloom at different times, and the colors of their flowers are also different. Jin Gui blooms from September to October, and its color is usually golden yellow. Yin Gui blooms from September to October, and its color is white or yellowish white. Dan Gui blooms in October, and its color is mostly orange-red or orange-yellow. Siji Gui blooms in all four seasons, with a small number of flowers every month, and the color is white.

The planting environment for Osmanthus fragrans

1. Cutting: Cutting time is generally June-July or September-October, and sandy loam is suitable for the cutting site. Use semi-mature branches of the current year as cuttings, with terminal branches being best. After cutting, shade promptly, water thoroughly, and strengthen water and fertilizer management. Generally, healing begins 20 days after cutting, and rooting can occur in 30-40 days. In winter, cold protection measures are needed, and the following year the seedlings can grow to about 30 cm tall.

2. Layering: Layering is divided into air layering (high layering) and ground layering, and it can be done all year round. The air layering method is carried out in early April, while the ground layering method is best carried out in early April or during the plum rain season. When layering, wounding or ring-barking is required, and after 1 year it is separated from the mother plant. For ground layering, the buried depth of the layered branch is about 4-5 cm, and the more bent the buried part of the branch is, the better.

3. Grafting: The propagation time for grafting is March-April. Ligustrum quihoui and Ligustrum lucidum are often used as rootstocks. The grafting method is branch grafting; cut grafting, cleft grafting, and approach grafting are all acceptable. During grafting, shading is required and attention should be paid to moisture retention. Cut grafting and cleft grafting require the graft union to be as low as possible, generally cutting off the rootstock at 3 cm above the ground. After tying, mound soil up to the top of the scion so that it may possibly root from the scion part and increase the survival rate.

4. Sowing: Sow in winter or early spring, in drills, with a row spacing of 15-20 cm, sowing 30-40 seeds per meter, with a sowing rate of 8-10 kg per mu, covering with humus soil or burned soil about 1.5 cm thick, and then covering with grass. Generally, germination begins 40-50 days after sowing and can continue for 50-60 days, with very uneven germination. July-September is the period of vigorous seedling growth, so attention should be paid to topdressing and drought resistance. One-year-old seedlings can be released from the nursery when they are more than 30 cm tall.

5. Seedling release from nursery: After layered and grafted seedlings have rooted, they can be used for winter afforestation or planted in the nursery to cultivate large seedlings. When cutting seedlings reach more than 30 cm in height, sowing seedlings reach more than 25 cm, and ground diameter reaches more than 0.4 cm, they can be released from the nursery for afforestation or transplanted to a large-seedling cultivation area. When lifting seedlings, the root system should be kept as intact as possible. After lifting, plant them promptly. If long-distance transport is needed, attention should be paid to moisture retention.

Variety classification of Osmanthus fragrans

1. Siji Gui variety: Siji Gui is a clustered shrub with a low tree form, short and dense branches, and a round spherical crown. New leaves are dark red, and mature leaves are green or yellow-green. The leaves are elliptical to broadly ovate, and the angle between the main vein and side veins is very large, close to vertical. Flower buds are usually single or 2-3 stacked together, blooming in batches from September each year to the following March. The floral fragrance is not as rich as that of Yin Gui, Jin Gui, or Dan Gui. Common varieties include large-leaf Siji Gui and small-leaf Siji Gui. Varieties that bloom in all four seasons include Yueyue Gui, Rixiang Gui, Daye Fodingzhu, and Chive Siji Gui.

2. Dan Gui variety group: Dan Gui is dioecious, with a round spherical crown, light gray bark that is relatively smooth, and sparse lenticels. Leaves are leathery, long elliptical or elliptical, with a relatively flat leaf surface, revolute leaf margins, entire margins, occasionally sparse teeth at the apex, a broad wedge-shaped base, an obtuse or short-pointed apex, 8-10 pairs of lateral veins, obvious reticulate veins on both sides, and a petiole 8-10 mm long. The flower color is orange-red, the corolla is slightly incurved, the fragrance is light, and the flowering period is late September to early October. Varieties include Dahua Dan Gui, Chi Dan Gui, Zhusha Dan Gui, and Kuanye Hong.

3. Jin Gui variety group: Jin Gui has a round spherical crown, a strong tree vigor, and upright, very dense branches. The bark is gray, and the lenticels are round or elliptical. Spring shoots are relatively thick. The leaf color is dark green, the leaves are elliptical, the leaf surface is uneven, and the leaf margins are slightly wavy. The flower color is yellow, with a strong fragrance, and it does not set fruit. It blooms in autumn, with flowers ranging from lemon yellow to pale golden yellow. Varieties include Dahua Jin Gui, Daye Huang, Huangchuan Jin Gui, Wan Jin Gui, Yuanye Jin Gui, Xianning Wan Gui, Qiu Gui, Yuanbian Jin Gui, Liuye Su Gui, Jinshi Gui, and Boye Jin Gui.

4. Yin Gui variety group: Yin Gui has a round spherical crown, spreading large branches, dense branches and leaves, and good growth. The bark is light gray, and the lenticels are numerous and large, shaped like snowflakes, very obvious. The leaves are green or dark green, long elliptical or elliptical, relatively broad and thick, and the leaf surface is relatively flat. It blooms in early to mid-September, with flower colors from creamy yellow to lemon yellow, a rich fragrance, and it does not set fruit after flowering. It blooms in autumn. Varieties include Kuanye Zi Yin Gui, Liuye Yin Gui, Yingye Yin Gui, Zi Yin Gui, Jiulong Gui, Zao Yin Gui, Wan Yin Gui, Baijie, Chunbai Yin Gui, and Qingshan Yin Gui.

In which month does Osmanthus bloom?

1. Jin Gui: flowering period September-October, color golden yellow. Yin Gui: flowering period September-October, color white or yellowish white. Dan Gui: flowering period October, color orange-red or orange-yellow. Siji Gui: a small number of flowers every month, color white. In addition, depending on the planting region, Osmanthus flowering time may also vary slightly. In Shanghai, Anhui, and Jiangsu, it basically blooms in October; in the Northeast region, it basically blooms in August; in Beijing, Tianjin, and Hebei, it is September; in Sichuan, Guangxi, and Shaanxi, it blooms in September.

2. Osmanthus will not bloom before it reaches blooming age. Osmanthus has a long lifespan and can generally live for decades to several hundred years, with some even living for a thousand years, so its blooming age is also relatively late. Seed-grown seedlings take about ten years to bloom; cuttings take four years to bloom; grafted Jin Gui and Yin Gui have one-fifth blooming the following year; grafted Siji Gui blooms in the same year but only very few. Some transplanted large Osmanthus trees can bloom in the same year, while others need one or two years to adapt before blooming.

How much does one Osmanthus sapling cost?

1. Variety: The variety of Osmanthus saplings determines the price level of the saplings. Osmanthus is divided into four major varieties: Jin Gui, Yin Gui, Dan Gui, and Siji Gui. Of course, each major variety also contains many small varieties, but the prices of small varieties under the same major variety are all similar. Dan Gui has the highest price and blooms red flowers.

2. Size: Osmanthus saplings also come in large and small sizes, and large ones are of course a bit more expensive. For small seedlings, the industry generally now distinguishes size by sapling height (previously by tree age). At present, the most commonly planted are Osmanthus saplings around one meter tall.

3. Place of origin: The place of origin of Osmanthus saplings has a great relationship with price, because regional factors first lead to different costs of cultivating Osmanthus saplings in different places, resulting in slight price differences. Moreover, seedling delivery and transport costs are also greatly related to region.

4. Quantity: The purchase quantity of Osmanthus saplings is also closely related to price. As everyone knows, when anything is bought wholesale, the price will certainly be a bit cheaper.

How to grow Osmanthus so it grows well

1. Water at the right time: For potted Osmanthus, master the principle of not watering when dry and watering thoroughly when watering, but spray the leaves with clean water once a day. After Qingming Festival, move the Osmanthus to the open air and water it thoroughly once. In summer, water in the morning and evening; in winter, water around noon, so that the water temperature is close to the soil temperature and does not cause sudden cold or heat. Be careful not to let water accumulate.

2. Fertilize reasonably: Osmanthus is mainly grown for its flowers, so it should be supplied with sufficient fertilizer. When shoots sprout, apply nitrogen fertilizer 1-2 times. Before flower bud differentiation and blooming, mainly apply phosphorus fertilizer. Before fertilizing, the potting soil should be slightly dry, and it is best to loosen the soil first to facilitate fertilizer absorption. On the second day after fertilizing, water once.

3. Repotting and soil replacement: Osmanthus should be repotted and have its soil replaced once every 2-3 years. Cut off part of the old roots and dead roots. Place a layer of river sand or vermiculite at the bottom of the pot to facilitate aeration and drainage, and place decomposed cake fertilizer as base fertilizer. The filling soil must be compacted. The soil formula is not very strict. Usually, garden soil, composted manure, and river sand can each make up 1/3 of the mixture.

4. Pruning and shaping: Osmanthus shaping generally adopts a combination of bending and pruning, and it is best done after autumn. For plants with a very poor tree shape, the entire top branches can be cut off at 2/3 or 3/4. For plants with overly dense branches, thinning pruning should be carried out. After flowering, long shoots, dead branches, diseased and pest-damaged branches, and dense weak branches should also be cut off.

5. Winter management: The overwintering room temperature for Osmanthus should be kept at 0-5°C, and relative humidity should be kept at 50-80%. In winter, a cold room should have good light, especially before buds begin to sprout in early spring, when ample sunlight is even more required. The following year after Grain Rain, arrange for potted Osmanthus to be moved outdoors. After moving outdoors, first place them together in a wind-protected, sunny spot outdoors so they gradually adapt to the external environment.

6. Disease control: Common diseases of Osmanthus include leaf spot, sooty mold, algal leaf spot, root rot, and iron deficiency. Leaf spot, sooty mold, and algal leaf spot can be controlled by spraying 0.5 Bordeaux mixture or a 500-1000 times dilution of 5% carbendazim. For root rot, attention should be paid to keeping the soil loose and aerated, and not letting water accumulate.

7. Pest control: Common pests of Osmanthus include sawflies, whiteflies, mites, long-scale insects, and yellow stinging caterpillars. Sawflies, whiteflies, and mites can be killed by spraying a 1500-3000 times dilution of 40% dimethoate. For long-scale insects, besides manual brushing off, during the first and second instar nymph stages they can be killed by spraying a 1000 times dilution of 40% omethoate or a 500 times dilution of 40% fenitrothion.

Pruning methods for Osmanthus bonsai

1. Pruning during the ornamental period refers to pruning carried out after the Osmanthus bonsai has taken shape, in order to maintain the graceful form of the shaped Osmanthus tree. This kind of pruning is long-term and extensive, and must be done conscientiously.

2. For Osmanthus bonsai cultivated from tree stumps, after shaping and pruning, the trunk and main branches have already been determined. What needs further processing and pruning are secondary branches and even finer tertiary branches. The basic points to grasp when processing and pruning these branches are: a branch should have a certain degree of curvature, and each branch should differ in length and shortness, so as to appear graceful.

3. When pruning, messy crossing branches, overlapping branches, parallel branches, and opposite branches should be adjusted, that is, one of them is cut off or one section is thinned out. The remaining branches can grow thick and strong because nutrients are concentrated. When a cultivated branch grows to a suitable thickness, carry out severe pruning to shorten it and produce second-level branches. When the second-level branches grow to a suitable thickness, prune and shorten again. Thereafter, treat the second, fourth, and other branch levels in the same way. Generally, two small branches are kept on each branch level, one long and one short. After years of pruning, the branches become short, thick, and vigorous, gradually forming the required tree shape.

Sowing methods for Osmanthus seeds

1. From early February to April of the following year, sowing and seedling cultivation can be carried out only after the seeds crack open and show white. Generally, the drill sowing method is used, that is, making horizontal or vertical drill furrows on the seedbed, with a furrow width of 12 cm and a furrow depth of 3 cm. In the furrow, sow 1 pregerminated seed every 6-8 cm. When sowing, place the seed hilum sideways to avoid bending of the radicle and young stem, which would affect seedling growth. In the Guilin area, wide-band drilling is usually used, with a row spacing of 20-25 cm and a band width of 10-12 cm, sowing 20 kg per mu, which can produce 25000-30000 seedlings.

2. After sowing, immediately cover with fine soil. The suitable soil cover thickness is no more than 2-3 times the transverse diameter of the seed. After covering with soil, level the bed surface to avoid water accumulation. Then cover with a thin layer of rice straw, to the extent that the soil is no longer visible, and stretch ropes to press it down to prevent the covering grass from being blown away by wind. Then use a fine-rose watering can to spray water fully until the soil is thoroughly wet. Covering with grass and spraying water can keep the soil moist, avoid soil crusting, and promote early seed germination and early emergence.

How can you make Osmanthus bloom more?

1. Choose good potting soil: Osmanthus likes slightly acidic soil. For potting, you can use a mixture of 5 parts mountain soil, 3 parts humus soil, and 2 parts sandy soil, or use half leaf mold and half sandy loam as the growing medium. If the soil is too acidic, growth will be slow and leaves will wither and yellow. If alkaline soil is used, after 2-3 months it can cause leaf withering, or even death.

2. Water at the right time: For watering Osmanthus, master “two less and one more”, that is, water less before new shoots appear, water less on cloudy and rainy days, and water more during dry weather in summer and autumn. Usually, watering should keep the potting soil at about 50% water content. On cloudy and rainy days, drain promptly to prevent root rot from water accumulation in the pot, otherwise it is easy for the plant to be “drowned”.

3. Apply topdressing skillfully: Osmanthus likes pig manure. There is a flower proverb: “If you want Osmanthus fragrance, prepare more pig manure vats.” If, after the Osmanthus is moved outdoors in early spring, decomposed diluted pig manure liquid is applied, about once every 10-15 days from April to May, once every 7-10 days from June to July, and one last time in early August, then the Osmanthus will grow luxuriantly, bloom more, and smell fragrant. In cities where there is no pig manure, decomposed cake fertilizer liquid can be used. If fertilization is insufficient, there will be few branches and few flowers, and they will not be fragrant.

4. Prune appropriately: Osmanthus has a well-developed root system and strong sprouting ability. Mature Osmanthus trees produce new shoots twice a year. Therefore, to make Osmanthus bloom abundantly and have luxuriant foliage, appropriate pruning is needed to maintain the physiological balance between reproductive growth and vegetative growth. Generally, long shoots, thin and weak branches, and diseased and pest-damaged branches should be cut off to facilitate ventilation and light penetration and concentrate nutrients, prompting the Osmanthus to develop more and fuller flower buds, resulting in abundant blooming.