Five Common Pests and Diseases of Nerve Plant: Control Techniques and Prevention Tips

Nerve plant has lush leaves. If the growing environment is relatively harsh, pests and diseases may appear. This is even more frightening than careless care, because pests and diseases can take the life of the nerve plant. So what should you do when the nerve plant gets bugs? Let's look at common methods for controlling nerve plant pests and diseases.

Control of Nerve Plant Pests and Diseases

According to statistics, the more common insect pests of nerve plant include scale insects, red spider mites, and snails, while the more common diseases include leaf rot and root rot. Below are the characteristics and control methods for these common pests and diseases.

1. Scale insects

Although scale insects are inconspicuous and will not immediately cause the death of the nerve plant after they appear, if they are not treated and prevented, they can cause symptoms such as fading leaf veins, leaf shrinkage, and slow growth. If left untreated, they will cause the plant to die. Gardeners must observe more often and control them promptly.

Control method: Before planting, the roots can be disinfected, for example with 15% aldicarb granules, etc. When there are many scale insects, spraying with chemicals is needed, such as omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000-fold solution, fenitrothion emulsifiable concentrate 1000-fold solution, etc.

2. Red spider mites

In the control of nerve plant pests and diseases, red spider mites are extremely harmful and are also one of the most troublesome pests in the world. They cause the leaves of the nerve plant to lose sap, leading to insufficient nutrients and loss of emerald green color. The leaf veins are also damaged, making the reticulation less obvious and less attractive.

Control method: Soap or washing powder can be added to water to rinse the leaves, which can remove most red spider mites. But to control any missed red spider mites, 15% pyridaben emulsifiable concentrate 2000-fold solution can also be sprayed on the leaf surfaces and stems of the nerve plant.

3. Snails

Although snails crawl very slowly and appear harmless to people, they can harm plant health, including nerve plant. They can cause leaf shrinkage and yellowing, may attract other pests, and leave pathogens on the leaves. Therefore, when snails appear on the nerve plant, they should be removed promptly.

Control method: Snails are generally not controlled by spraying chemicals, but by manual capture or baiting with methaldehyde. In addition, pay attention to environmental temperature and humidity, and promptly remove weeds from flower pots, which can reduce the probability of snails appearing.

Handling Nerve Plant Diseases

1. Leaf rot

Light black diseased spots appear on the leaf edges and leaf bodies of the nerve plant. If humidity is relatively high, the spots will continue to expand and can affect the entire leaf in 1-2 [days?], making the leaves look as if they have withered and died black, which is very frightening.

2. Root rot

Root rot is relatively difficult to detect because the affected part is mainly the root, but we can detect the specific signs by observing the leaves. For example, if the leaves turn yellow and wither under normal conditions in April-May, it may be caused by root rot.

Control method: Leaf rot generally needs to be controlled with 25% carbendazim wettable powder 1000-fold solution, and at the same time, care should be taken that environmental humidity is not too high. For root rot, streptomycin 1000-fold solution is needed to soak the roots. Only after killing the pathogens in the roots can it be completely cured.

Complete Guide to Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key Points for Spring Flower Planting

Flower Planting Manual (February Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and is also the cold period second only to January in the year. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition to spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to recovery. The main floral tasks this month are as follows: first, continue to do a good job of cold protection and insulation for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowers after flowering; third, do preparatory work for cuttings, grafting propagation, and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. In February, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels include: Calendula officinalis, Cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, Asparagus setaceus, Gloxinia, tuberous begonia, Carthamus tinctorius, cornflower, Gaillardia, strawflower, Salvia splendens, marigold, dwarf petunia, California poppy, Phlox, Calceolaria, Schizanthus, snapdragon, Tropaeolum, pansy, etc. At the end of February, seeds that can be sown outdoors in open ground include: Magnolia species, Michelia species, Photinia species, Acer species, and Malus species (Rosaceae) seeds that have been stratified in sand and have cracked and revealed white; as well as Cinnamomum camphora, Liriodendron, Ligustrum, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, palm, Koelreuteria, Sapindus, Aesculus, Syringa, etc.; seeds of Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus, Wisteria, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and Hippeastrum bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. In February, woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-ground cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film to retain moisture include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches of cultivars such as Gongfen and Lü'e), Nandina, Hibiscus mutabilis (southern regions), crape myrtle, Daphne (southern regions), Edgeworthia, pomegranate, Forsythia suspensa, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, Serissa, Hibiscus syriacus, Hypericum (mei), Spiraea, Mahonia, Buxus species, sesame stalk, etc. Sand-stored branches of Syringa and Campsis can also be cuttings at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela, Deutzia, Hydrangea, Tamarix, Platanus, grape, fig, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for cuttings at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be cuttings indoors in February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), Begonia coccinea, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Salvia splendens, Pelargonium, jasmine, Chloranthus, Buddha's hand, jade plant, jade leaf, Echeveria, gem flower, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Pilea cadierei, Kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera, Aglaonema, Cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust Japanese black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, white bark pine, etc., then plant in the ground and cover with film to retain heat and moisture. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock, and cut-graft to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on Chimonanthus praecox branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use Chimonanthus praecox seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock, and cut-graft to propagate excellent cultivars such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou', and 'Huti' Chimonanthus praecox. Using bagging and aeration to retain moisture, the survival rate is relatively high. Use robust branches of the rose cultivar 'Elizabeth' as rootstock and scion, and cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent rose cultivars. Taking measures of grafting first, then cuttings, and then covering with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold can greatly increase the grafting survival rate.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Gardenia, Weigela, Podocarpus, Sabina chinensis, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia suspensa, Hypericum, Hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, red maple, Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Iris, Belamcanda chinensis, Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope platyphylla, Liriope spicata var. variegata, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, Dicentra spectabilis, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Ornithogalum, pineapple species, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis, Chlorophytum species, Kalanchoe, Canna, Maranta, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia, Aloe, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Nandina, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hypericum, Mahonia, Hydrangea, Chaenomeles speciosa, Edgeworthia, winter jasmine, Forsythia suspensa, Caragana, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, jasmine, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Osmanthus fragrans, Bambusa multiplex, Sasa fortunei, etc.

    1. Collect seeds. In February, seeds of Nandina, Ilex species, Ardisia crenata, winter cherry, etc. can be picked. After treatment, stratify them in sand to promote germination, and sow only after the seeds have cracked and revealed white. For Clivia plants blooming in greenhouses, artificial pollination can be provided in order to obtain Clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various flower and tree seeds stored in sand to see whether any seeds have molded. If molding occurs, clean them promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with misting water to maintain a certain humidity in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and revealed white, sow them in a relatively short time. Once the radicle extends too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle and affect the seedling emergence rate. Large sand-stored seeds can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or adding plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and temperatures are relatively high, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and planted out include: Dianthus species, snapdragon, Alcea rosea, silver-edged holly, daisy, Calendula officinalis, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be planted out. Among them, deciduous species such as Hibiscus syriacus, pomegranate, redbud, Malus species, ginkgo, Liquidambar formosana, Acer species, Wisteria, crape myrtle, Chimonanthus praecox, plum blossom (before budding and leafing out), Magnolia species, Sapindus, Albizia, Aesculus, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, Chaenomeles, Campsis, Tilia, Liriodendron, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, Spiraea, Triadica sebifera, Deutzia, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum (mei), weeping willow, golden weeping willow, Hibiscus mutabilis, Cotinus coggygria, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia species, Cinnamomum camphora, Elaeocarpus, French holly, Machilus, Phoebe sheareri, etc. can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; Osmanthus, Ligustrum, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Platycladus orientalis, Japanese black pine, etc., should be moderately pruned when planted.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (or greenhouse) maintenance, potted ornamental plants have consumed relatively more nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the plants has greatly decreased. Continue to carefully do a good job of moisture retention and cold protection. If greenhouses or plastic tunnels have heating facilities, continue to provide heating and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, continue to hang them; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, even more care should be taken.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities, continue to do a good job of ventilation and air exchange. Especially by the end of February, ventilation time can be extended during the period of highest temperature in the day. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For cold-sensitive flowers kept in small quantities in homes, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea, Syngonium, Begonia masoniana, Codiaeum variegatum, Calathea roseopicta, etc., in particularly cold weather, plastic bags can be added at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom and heating appliances such as "Yuba" can be turned on to increase the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. In February, due to relatively low temperatures, for most potted flowers, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor environments, frequently mist and spray the leaves of plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color and flower buds to stop growing; in severe cases leaves shrink and wrinkle and flower buds shrink and fall off. For example, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, plum blossom, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', kumquat, winter cherry, etc. may all show bud drop and fruit drop, or even death. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor or greenhouse air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, Kalanchoe, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, Calendula officinalis, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as Pyracantha, Nandina, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Buddha's hand, lemon, Ardisia crenata, four-season mandarin, winter cherry, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds, and fruits. Only in this way can the leaves be emerald green, the flower buds rapidly expand, and the fruits be brightly colored. In particular, for peonies, plum blossoms, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. placed in plastic tunnels for forcing, water must also be sprayed on the branches 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of flower buds so they can bloom as scheduled. For purchased Cymbidium grown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse or tunnel differ greatly from those in the home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often shrink and dry out. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., it must be ensured that the potting soil is moist, and the plants must be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day; otherwise, the plants may very likely die.

    Although most potted flowers do not need much water in February, inspections should be strengthened. Especially during several consecutive days of rising temperatures, supplementary watering and spraying should be strengthened in a timely manner.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, supplementary watering should be done in a timely manner. Especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, appropriate leaf spraying should also be done around noon on clear days to prevent leaf shrinkage and shedding afterward, which would affect spring recovery growth.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, continue to bury base fertilizer for most ground-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. They can be applied by digging ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant root system and then covering with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (plastic tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, Cyclamen, Belgian azalea, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne, plum blossom, European narcissus, hyacinth, tulip, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Neoregelia, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia, etc., continue to apply low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and stump bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.

    4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted plum blossoms, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia suspensa, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, severe renewal pruning can be carried out. For flowered branches, only 2 to 3 buds at the base are retained, and all the rest are cut off, to promote many new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For stump bonsai types that are mainly pruned, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ficus, Acer buergerianum, Fukien tea, Xylosma, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, Elaeagnus, Ilex cornuta, holly, Serissa, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus rigida, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them while pruning.

    5. Repotting. Late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting most potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is recovering growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus, Brunfelsia, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Nephrolepis, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Fuchsia, Begonia coccinea, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia rex, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cycas, Clivia, Haworthia, Aloe, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Sedum, jade plant, jade leaf, Kalanchoe, Hippeastrum, Asparagus setaceus, Chlorophytum, Araucaria, Schefflera, Rohdea japonica, Strelitzia reginae, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtanthus, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hydrangea, Nandina, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium, Maranta, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', kumquat, Buddha's hand, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses, and gray mold appearing on primrose leaves, etc., at the early stage of disease, choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder 1500-fold solution for spraying, once every 10 days, 2 to 3 consecutive sprays are enough.

For gray mold appearing on leaves and flower crowns of potted Cyclamen in plastic tunnels, 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder 1000 to 1500-fold solution can be sprayed.

For potted Belgian azaleas in plastic tunnels, stop foliar spraying of foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao", because at this time the temperature is low and humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer is difficult for the plant to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants, and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai' and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush; when there are many insects, 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 2000-fold solution can be sprayed to kill them. After aphids, scale insects, and ants are killed, sooty mold will also be eliminated accordingly.

For insect bodies such as, white peach scale, oystershell scale, black brown round scale, etc. appearing on potted flower plants in plastic tunnels, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or sprayed with 2.5% cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate 2500-fold solution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% aldicarb granules in the flower pot.

Continue to clean up dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted plants, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and seal for fermentation, so that in the growing season it can be diluted and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc. After about 2 months, spread it out to dry. After fully drying, pack it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and dried cake fertilizer in granular powder form can be scattered in flower pots as topdressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and other potted flower types, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer. Especially when growing flowers on balconies, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of foliar diseases. In addition, it can also be used to mix potting soil.

    8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, continue to turn and dig garden land that has not yet been completely plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, then dig trenches and make beds for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include Sabina chinensis, Podocarpus, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus rigida, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii, ginkgo, Serissa, Juniperus procumbens, Japanese white pine, Huangshan pine, Japanese black pine, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', Adina rubella, Caragana, small golden coin plum, Corylopsis, Chaenomeles speciosa, crape myrtle, Ficus, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, etc.

Continue to re-train and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If plants are found to have sunken binding constriction marks, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire and replace it with new binding material for training and fixation.

For shallow-pot stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing and cracking apart, causing unnecessary losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March Chapter)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the previous row of buildings is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain extent, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively light-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, ginkgo, Osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, Chaenomeles, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, persimmon, Hibiscus mutabilis, Liriodendron, plum blossom, rose, fig, Camellia japonica, crape myrtle, peony, pomegranate, Wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, Nandina, red maple, redbud, Hibiscus syriacus, Canary Island date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, then choose flower and tree species adapted to shady and damp conditions, such as palm, Photinia, Aucuba, French holly, Ligustrum, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Elaeocarpus, Podocarpus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis, Cedrus deodara, Chimonanthus praecox, Musa basjoo, clustered bamboo, etc. Regardless of the light, dryness, and wetness in your courtyard, the following points should be noted when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees: first, the minimum temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid freezing damage; second, they should be adapted to local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid incompatibility; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to hinder the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-specification plants, which can achieve greening and beautification effects earlier, such as ginkgo, Japanese fir, Osmanthus, plum blossom, Podocarpus, etc., whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some open space for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant species suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include Dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, Gomphrena globosa, Celosia, marigold, Alcea rosea, Impatiens, lupine, daisy, Calendula officinalis, corn poppy, Zephyranthes candida, dahlia, etc. Relatively shade-tolerant herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant species include: Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope platyphylla, Reineckea carnea, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Lycoris radiata, Rohdea japonica, Tradescantia spathacea, Aspidistra, Iris, Acorus calamus, Saxifraga stolonifera, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potting in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, you can choose to plant some flower species requiring relatively meticulous management, such as plum blossom, Aglaia odorata, Camellia japonica, poinsettia, Chimonanthus praecox, Belgian azalea, Araucaria, Brazilian iron, money tree, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, Ardisia crenata, pineapple species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon and phoenix wood), Fagraea ceilanica (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum species (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, Cymbidium, Anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, Cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia reginae, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Clivia, Epipremnum aureum, nerve plant, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium, Buddha's hand, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', lemon, tulip, hyacinth, Calceolaria, fish-tail palm, Areca palm, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poor conditions, you can grow some types requiring relatively extensive management, such as Nandina, Cycas, Rhapis, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hippeastrum, winter jasmine, Forsythia suspensa, Caragana, Serissa, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans, cactus species, Asparagus setaceus, rubber tree, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Schefflera, Pilea cadierei, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Bougainvillea, large thorn, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Ficus, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: crape myrtle, redbud, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus, red maple, Liriodendron. For the latter five, seeds need to be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown after sand stratification to promote germination include: Cycas, ginkgo, Podocarpus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Livistona, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia species, Osmanthus, Aesculus, Nandina, Ilex species, pomegranate, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Impatiens, marigold, Gomphrena globosa, zinnia, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, Primula obconica, Malva species, Mirabilis jalapa, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia, Asparagus setaceus, etc. Some cold-intolerant species should be sown inside plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cuttings. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Portulacaria afra, gem flower, Echeveria, Hydrangea, Nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, Salix gracilistyla, Hypericum, Podocarpus, pomegranate, fig, Fatsia japonica, Gardenia, Forsythia suspensa, winter jasmine, Sabina chinensis, Daphne, Pyracantha, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should be taken in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old Japanese black pine seedlings as rootstock, side-graft to propagate Japanese white pine, Osaka pine, etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliiflora seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft to propagate Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select excellent cultivar Chimonanthus praecox scion branches, carry out cut-grafting and bag them to retain moisture, giving a relatively high survival rate; using triangular cactus as rootstock, graft to propagate Schlumbergera and various cactus ball types, preferably in plastic tunnels. In addition, Camellia japonica, cherry blossom, Osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be grafted in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, red maple, Podocarpus, Sabina chinensis, upright cypress, Michelia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball, Gardenia, Osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchid grasses, Dicentra spectabilis, Aspidistra, Asparagus setaceus, Cycas, Nandina, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Sansevieria, Oxalis triangularis, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet, dahlia, Strelitzia reginae, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and planting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting plum blossom, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Liriodendron, red maple, etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants bud and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; for transplanting Chimonanthus praecox, crape myrtle, redbud, Hibiscus syriacus, Aesculus, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc., even after budding it does not matter, but appropriate pruning should also be done. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, when transplanting, a sufficient and complete root ball should be taken. Generally, the diameter of the root ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not buried with fertilizer in winter, before they have sprouted, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of the root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon manure, etc., or a multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossoms, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia suspensa, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, in addition to pruning dead branches, pest-infested branches, and excessively long flowering branches, one-year-old branches can be cut at 2 to 3 cm from the base, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through severe renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, benefiting flowering the following year. For Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, etc., after flowering, prune branches that damage the plant shape and also prune some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus, etc. that form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust plant shape and improve ventilation and light conditions.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests and diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases that year; for some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as rose, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, grape, Malus halliana, etc., promptly spray Bordeaux mixture after leafing out, which can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust, etc.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and planted out in March include: Dianthus, snapdragon, Calendula officinalis, daisy, Alcea rosea, Malva, silver-edged Liriope, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes rosea, Iris, Reineckea carnea, Ophiopogon, Ophiopogon japonicus, Oxalis corymbosa, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or herbaceous flowers transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted Chimonanthus praecox, plum blossom, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Pyracantha, Japanese white pine, Nandina, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma, Fraxinus chinensis, etc. placed outdoors, repot before they bud and leaf out, replacing the soil with fresh, loose, fertile potting soil rich in organic matter, to lay a foundation for spring and summer growth. For Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, rose, jasmine, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Strelitzia reginae, Cycas, poinsettia, Camellia sasanqua, Camellia japonica, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Buddha's hand, lemon, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Clivia, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium, Maranta, etc. placed indoors, repot before moving out.

(2) Hardening. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor maintenance in March, and both cold protection and ventilation must be emphasized. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, heat preservation and cold protection must continue in early and mid-March. In late March, doors and windows of the home can be opened during the day for ventilation and closed at night, so that Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, jasmine, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, poinsettia, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium podophyllum, rubber tree, Araucaria, etc. can gradually become hardened and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding excessive early sprouting that affects growth and normal flowering that year. For potted flowers in areas north of the Yellow River, heat preservation and cold protection must continue this month, and care must not be relaxed.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, jasmine, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, Cycas, rubber tree, fish-tail palm, Areca palm, Codiaeum variegatum, Asparagus setaceus, begonia species, carry out necessary pruning together with repotting, including cutting off pest-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches, and some yellowed leaves. For Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus, Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii, Huangshan pine, Japanese black pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma, Syzygium buxifolium, etc. mainly appreciated for their stumps, wiring and pruning can also be done before budding in March to further improve their shapes. For plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, Forsythia suspensa, etc., severe renewal pruning can be done after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

Urban residents cannot all have a small courtyard, nor can they all live on the first floor with a good small flower-growing environment. More often, they grow some relatively resistant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting include one category of relatively drought-tolerant plant species. Their body surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or the plant body is fleshy and thick with relatively more sap, or the leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like shapes with very little transpiration water consumption, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and therefore are very drought-tolerant, such as Cycas, cactus species (Opuntia microdasys, Cereus, Crassula, Echinocactus grusonii, large column cactus, Aporocactus, coral tree), Portulacaria afra, jade plant, gem flower, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Pereskia, Kalanchoe, etc. Also Chimonanthus praecox, winter jasmine, Lycoris radiata, Spathiphyllum, Aglaonema, Chlorophytum, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is also another category of flower species that are relatively tolerant of sunlight exposure and dry hot winds, can accept full light, and can resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, and are also suitable for balcony potting (especially high-floor balconies), such as pomegranate, rose, Ficus, Ligustrum quihoui, Agave, Hippeastrum, Sageretia thea, Xylosma, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Japanese black pine, Juniperus rigida, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Ilex cornuta, holly, Vitex negundo, Euonymus, longevity peach, Portulaca grandiflora, etc. In addition, jasmine, Chloranthus, Japanese white pine, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra, Buddha's hand, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', lemon, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Camellia japonica, Schefflera, Araucaria, etc. can also be used as slightly lower-level balcony potted plants, but water and shade management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as Salvia splendens, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, marigold, Impatiens, dwarf petunia, etc., can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of Asparagus setaceus or Clivia seeds is collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, move them to an outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum, jade plant, gem flower, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, coral tree, Crassula, etc. can be cuttings indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flower pot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as cutting medium, and in a relatively bright place by an indoor windowsill, take cuttings to propagate Gardenia, Fuchsia, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, Podocarpus, rose pomegranate, Chaenomeles speciosa, Nandina, Daphne, Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot opening must be covered well with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, when grafting Japanese white pine, plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., bagging to retain moisture is necessary; otherwise, survival is not easy.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potting are still indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation, and exposure to light, plants that need repotting should be repotted in a timely manner. For relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on balconies, keep the potting soil from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants that year, but in severe cases cause plant death. Measures such as building temporary shelters on site or moving them indoors or into tunnels for cold protection can be taken.

    2. Pruning. For stumps such as Chimonanthus praecox, Ilex cornuta, holly, Japanese black pine, Japanese white pine, Podocarpus, Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ligustrum quihoui, etc., pruning and shaping can be done. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be trained by wiring in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil can be replaced; for bonsai placed on balconies, keep the potting soil moist, water once every 3 to 5 days, and appropriately spray water. For plum blossom, winter jasmine, Forsythia suspensa, Chimonanthus praecox, longevity peach, Camellia japonica, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to promote maintenance of a good plant shape, and carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cutting off pest-infested branches and leaves and destroying them; for dry cut surfaces on stumps, lime sulfur mixture, etc. can be applied for antiseptic treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board (prefabricated reinforced concrete) placed on top, using the humidity produced by evaporation from the water pool. In summer, place some flowers that prefer humid air on it, such as orchid species, Monstera, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium podophyllum, Ardisia crenata, Nandina, etc. The stored water is relatively ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out, you can also first set up stepped racks on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose support points for hanging shade nets in summer. Once potted flowers are moved out and encounter excessively strong sunlight, shade measures can quickly be put in place.

    In March, also prepare potting soil for repotting, and prepare sufficient various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Chapter)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, warm and humid airflows from the south become stronger and stronger, and temperatures rise. After Qingming, although there is occasionally the influence of cold air moving south, it can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River. Only in areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River does the harm of snow and frost remain. After Grain Rain, the late frost period has ended in areas south of the Huai River and Yangtze River, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for maintenance; while in areas north of the Huai River, potted flowers can only be moved out after the late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, floral tasks include the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include Cleome hassleriana, Mirabilis jalapa, cockscomb, Amaranthus tricolor, Portulaca grandiflora, Dahlia pinnata, Gomphrena globosa, Salvia splendens, Impatiens, morning glory, Quamoclit coccinea, Quamoclit quamoclit, Nicotiana tabacum, dwarf petunia, Callistephus chinensis, Coreopsis, Coreopsis tinctoria, marigold, red-yellow chrysanthemum, zinnia, Asparagus setaceus, Primula obconica, Tropaeolum majus, Kochia scoparia, Abutilon, Euphorbia heterophylla, Ocimum basilicum, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Cosmos, Adenophora, Mimosa pudica, etc. Magnoliaceae flower and tree species that can be sown in April after sand storage include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia cylindrica, Magnolia zenii, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia sprengeri, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba, Magnolia wilsonii, Magnolia delavayi, Parakmeria, Manglietia, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia chingii, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia, Michelia floribunda, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia wilsonii, Liriodendron, hybrid Liriodendron, Liriodendron tulipifera, etc.; can be sown in April

Other greening flowers and trees include: Japanese fir, golden larch, hoop pine, golden larch (Pseudolarix), crape myrtle, redbud, silk tree, Chinese yew, Pittosporum tobira, Chinese tallow tree, Huangshan pine, soapberry, sweetgum, maples, Ormosia henryi, wintersweet, summersweet (Calycanthus), white pearl bush (Exochorda), goji berry, nandina, Ardisia crenata, palms, etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown fresh as collected in April include: Gerbera, asparagus fern, primrose, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Japanese fatsia, and nipplefruit (Solanum mammosum). Among these, Japanese fatsia fruits that have turned black, whitish, and soft can be picked at the end of April, rubbed and washed to extract the seeds, and then sown on fertile seedbeds; alternatively, the seeds can first be stratified in sand until they crack and show white, then sown, covered with grass to retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, once about 70% of the seeds have germinated, the grass covering should be removed promptly, and a shade frame should be set up; for cultivating nipplefruit, the golden-yellow fruits can be peeled, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil; after 10 days the seeds will germinate and emerge, and when the seedlings have grown 6 to 8 true leaves and reached a height of 15 cm, they can be transplanted, either potted for fruit display or planted in the ground as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flowering trees that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet, dragon-claw pagoda tree, ornamental peach, Shouxing peach, red-flowered bristly locust, as well as cactus and Christmas cactus.

    3. Division

Greenhouse foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily, snake plant, cast-iron plant, ferns, rhapis palm, spider plant, agave, silver king dieffenbachia, Chinese evergreen, Guangdong evergreen, calathea, aloe, peperomia, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, etc. Flowering plants that can be divided include: crape myrtle, pond cypress, hibiscus, snapdragon, aster, lotus, cosmos, coreopsis, chrysanthemum, aster, daylily, etc.; those that can be divided include: dahlia, daylily, canna, etc. In addition, water lilies and lotus can also be divided at this time.

    4. Cuttings

For most easily rooted flowering trees, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can be propagated by cuttings in April. The main types include: boxwood, mahonia, nandina, cypress, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, crape myrtle, redbud, firethorn, spiraea, tulip tree, snowflake spiraea, edgeworthia, and japonica (Chaenomeles).

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that were not repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if not too much old soil is removed and roots are not excessively pruned during repotting, they can be repotted in April. However, it should be noted: for deciduous flowering trees, if the new shoots are too long, especially for plum blossoms, they must never be repotted after the leaves have unfurled.

    2. April is the best time for transplanting outdoor flowering trees. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfurled or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with a soil ball in April; for evergreen flowering trees such as camphor, southern magnolia, Michelia, and white orchid, a portion of branches and leaves must be pruned off to reduce transpiration from the canopy; for deciduous flowering trees, it is best to transplant before they unfurl their leaves, such as white magnolia, horse chestnut, linden, crabapple, wintersweet, red-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, apricot, etc.; generally, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the transplanted tree, so that under the condition of not breaking the soil ball, the transplanted tree can be free from worry.

III. Bonsai Shaping

April is one of the best periods for bonsai shaping. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice shaping are those with strong adaptability whose branches can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as Buddhist pine, oriental arborvitae, June snow (Serissa), water willow (Adina), true cypress, winged spindle tree, crape myrtle, velvet cypress, flowering cypress, banyan, box-leaf holly, Chinese elm, winter jasmine, edgeworthia, ginkgo, black pine, and Chinese juniper. Other species suitable for shaping in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, red machilus (Syzygium), Chinese ash, trident maple, oak, galorwood, golden bullet (Diospyros), hanging crabapple, Fujian tea, papaya, Elaeagnus, horned holly, golden larch, and tiger thorn.

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, metal or non-metal wire should be used promptly for continuous wiring, guiding, and correction to maintain a good ornamental state. For the care of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid to the following three aspects this month: First, timely bud removal; when winter buds sprout and granular needle leaf primordia appear on them, 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length can be removed to promote shorter and denser new shoots; second, remove female and male cones; when needle bundle buds and male and female cones can be distinguished on new shoots, promptly remove all female cones at the tips of new shoots and male cones at the base of new shoots to reduce nutrient consumption during reproductive growth; third, control watering; from the beginning of new shoot elongation, watering must be strictly controlled, watering only when dry, substituting spraying for watering, to ensure that new needles are short and clustered and the branches remain flat and well-formed.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, rhododendron, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Daphne, kumquat, bitter orange (Daidai), winter coral, Christmas cactus, Cymbidium goeringii, large-flowered Cymbidium, Cymbidium sinense, Phaius tankervilleae, etc., because flowering or fruiting has consumed a large amount of nutrients, when they resume growth after warm spring, nitrogen-based fertilizer should be applied, such as well-rotted dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote their growth; for potted flowers about to bloom such as Chinese rose, redbud, pomegranate, Cymbidium ensifolium, hibiscus, and white orchid, topdressing should also be given, which can be monopotassium phosphate, with concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For ground-planted white magnolia, purple magnolia, Michelia, plum, wintersweet, crabapple, etc. after flowering, topdressing should also be applied promptly to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping and Maintenance

Money tree can be braided in April. Dig up money tree seedlings that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some moisture, then braid them with 3, 5, or 7 (odd numbers) trunks into a braid; after braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then select a suitable pot for planting; the money tree has extremely strong vitality, and even if it cannot be processed into a braid or planted in time, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjusting Plant Shape and Disease Prevention

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and faded stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management; for flower species prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Fruit-display Potted Plants

For potted fruit-display flowering trees that bloom in April, such as papaya, ginkgo, firethorn, Aucuba, and hanging crabapple, especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period, attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so that they can set fruit normally, and do not miss the opportunity.

    5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management. Except where intermittent misting equipment is available, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times daily to keep the cutting medium moist at all times, creating the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual: Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Edition)

Weather characteristics of May: Temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north across China. After each rainfall, temperatures rise noticeably, with many days of continuous spring rain. After the spring rains end around Xiaoman (Grain Buds), the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a crucial period for growing flowers, playing an important role in laying the foundation for potted flowers' summer and autumn growth. May flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers and flowering trees that can be sown fresh as collected in May mainly include: Primula obconica, Japanese fatsia, Mahonia bealei, loquat, etc. May sowing and seedling raising should pay attention to the following three points: First, keep the sowing seedbed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry; second, cover the sowing seedbed with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes in seedbed moisture that cause seeds to "regress"; third, after emergence, remove the grass covering in several stages, and promptly set up a shade frame to avoid scorching the seedlings.

Osmanthus can have its ripe blue-black fruits picked at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the flesh, rinsed clean, and stored in moist clean fine sand until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and the radicle tip is exposed can they be sown in the ground. During storage, care should be taken to prevent rodents from stealing them, and the sand should be kept moist.

For loquat sowing, the soil covering should not be too deep, generally not exceeding 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttings

Flower species suitable for cutting propagation in May include: scarlet sage (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, sulfur cosmos, Chinese rose, rhododendron, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower, poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, coral tree, nasturtium, jasmine, jasmine, chloranthus, red mulberry, deutzia, hydrangea, kerria, pomegranate, hibiscus syriacus, butterfly bush, trumpet creeper, gardenia, epiphyllum, Rhaphidophora, orchid cactus, jade plant, jewel leaf (Graptopetalum), Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia biondii, japonica (Chaenomeles), umbrella plant, lantana, red-back eugenia, shrimp plant, gold-bract flower, clerodendrum, Guangdong evergreen, cordyline, pothos, Schefflera, oleander, firethorn, mahonia, and Buddha-belly bamboo with aerial roots, etc.

    3. Grafting

In May, use 1- to 2-year-old potted purple magnolia seedlings or cutting seedlings for cleft grafting to propagate white orchid and Michelia; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and cocoon maple; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old hairy azalea cutting seedlings for cleft grafting to propagate Western azalea; use wild rose as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of Chinese rose; use yellow wormwood as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior varieties of chrysanthemum; use 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock for softwood grafting of superior wintersweet varieties, or potted rootstocks can be used for cleft grafting. In addition, cactus and triangular cactus can be used as rootstock for grafting to propagate Christmas cactus.

    4. Layering

Flowering trees that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid, rubber tree, Aglaia, Western azalea, camellia, croton, Michelia, red maple, etc.; flowering trees that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum, wintersweet, Chinese rose, gardenia, Buddhist pine, osmanthus, trumpet creeper, etc.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, the vast majority of species must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, they can bloom on time by late September to early October, thereby creating a joyful, warm, and colorful festive atmosphere. The main species include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur cosmos, China aster, Kochia scoparia, marigold, dragon's mouth flower, asparagus fern, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, etc.

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and beginning of May, when white magnolia has finished flowering and is just about to sprout and unfurl leaves, transplanting has the highest survival rate. Some flowering trees that sprout later and are easy to transplant successfully can also be transplanted with a soil ball in early May, such as crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, redbud, pomegranate, silk tree, etc.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, potted ornamental plants' water demand will gradually increase. In addition to combining root watering with foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of irrigation and spray water. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not directly use tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a pool or small vat, and an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flowers suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, plum, rhododendron, azalea, gardenia, Daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple, red-flowered camellia, etc.; foliage plants include: sago palm, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, rhapis palm, rubber tree, ferns, Buddhist pine, croton, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, Syngonium, calathea, bromeliads, Brazil wood, money tree, Schefflera, etc.; fruit-display plants include: bitter orange (Daidai), firethorn, kumquat, Buddha's hand, lemon, nandina, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, etc.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For white orchid that has just been moved out, special attention should be paid when pruning back, because its branch pith is loose and the cut surface easily loses water and dries out, extending downward. For this reason, the cut should be made 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained, and must never be too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose, post-flowering pruning should be moderately lowered by 10 to 20 cm, so that bud eyes in the middle of the branch can develop flower buds.

(2) Bud removal: For potted wintersweet plants, attention should also be paid to the location of bud removal, generally 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud, otherwise the wound will dry out and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Chinese rose potted that year, promptly remove the terminal bud to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade frame or tree shade, such as: Monstera deliciosa, rhapis palm, calathea, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, pink arrowhead (Caladium), fan palm, Syngonium, orchids, rhododendron, bird of paradise, camellia, sasanqua, etc.; for light-loving flowering trees, sufficient light must be given, such as wintersweet, sago palm, Chinese rose, firethorn, jasmine, white orchid, etc.; bonsai plants such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), trident maple, water willow (Adina), oak, June snow, black pine, soft pine, etc., require sufficient light; while Buddhist pine, tiger thorn, red machilus, oriental arborvitae, five-needle pine, etc. can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia, rhododendron, sasanqua, plum, Aglaia, jasmine, white orchid, gardenia, wintersweet, Chinese rose, Daphne, clivia, orchids, crabapple, etc.: after flowering, remove spent flowers and faded stems respectively, and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen with phosphorus as supplement, once every half month, to restore their vegetative growth while laying the foundation for re-developing flower buds; for foliage-oriented species such as rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, cast-iron plant, ferns, etc., apply well-rotted dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month; for foliage plants with colored spots or patterns, such as golden-edged snake plant, colorful bromeliad, golden-hearted Brazil wood, croton, caladium, white butterfly Syngonium, pink arrowhead, etc., a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied as a foliar feed, which can make their leaf color appear even more brilliant and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Chinese rose, rose (Rosa multiflora), and rose (Rosa rugosa), attention should be paid to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot; for leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticide to kill them; for common leaf-eating pests on bitter orange (Daidai), kumquat, golden bean, Buddha's hand, lemon, rue, etc.??? citrus swallowtail larvae, spray pesticide early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

Ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be shaped in May include: plum, small-leaf gardenia, mountain gardenia, Buddhist pine, June snow, oriental arborvitae, water willow (Adina), galorwood, ginkgo, etc. It is worth noting that: when shaping, one must be careful and cautious, try not to damage the bark and branches, otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Edition)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huai River basin enters the plum rain season. This year, plum rain began on June 12 and ended on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in the region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with prolonged continuous rain. For some flowers that go dormant or semi-dormant in summer and most bonsai, care should be taken to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light that disrupts shaping or affects normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. June flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering trees that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seeds, cycad, loquat, wintersweet, etc. For wintersweet, when the urn-shaped fruit capsule on the mother tree turns from green to yellow, then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked; promptly peel open the fruit capsule, extract the seeds, first soak in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds absorb enough water and swell, bury them in clean moist sand for germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white, at which point sow in furrows; the soil covering thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm, cover with rice straw to retain moisture, and after most seeds' cotyledons emerge, remove the grass covering in 2 to 3 stages, and promptly set up a shade frame.

    2. Cuttings

Summer has high temperatures and high humidity, and the cambium in flowering tree branches is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation. There are two major categories of flowering trees suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category consists of species that are difficult to root or root slowly from hardwood cuttings, such as osmanthus, camellia, Michelia, horned holly, holly, lilac, purple magnolia, japonica (Chaenomeles), snowball, flower, coral tree, coral tree, Belgian azalea, Buddha-belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood, pond cypress, bald cypress, etc.; the other category consists of species that root more easily, such as boxwood, Chinese rose, firethorn, Forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine (Jasminum), June snow, pomegranate, hibiscus syriacus, Caragana, jasmine, chloranthus, dragon-leaf pearl, lantana, kerria, bougainvillea, Buddha's hand, lemon, Buddhist pine, nandina, trumpet creeper, red-back eugenia, honeysuckle, hibiscus, cordyline, Hypericum, golden plum, golden willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan, Brazil iron, Ardisia crenata, edgeworthia, croton, deutzia, mock orange, crape myrtle, Weigela, snowball, peach-leaf Aucuba, Schefflera, mahonia, Japanese fatsia, snowflake spiraea, hydrangea, poinsettia, etc. Also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-claw golden dragon, ivy, nasturtium, larkspur, Qianqiu tea, heliotrope, umbrella plant, geranium, coleus, begonia, pansy, globe amaranth, zinnia, French marigold, marigold, sulfur cosmos, etc.

Taking fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings of camellia and osmanthus as an example: cutting time is from early June to mid-July, ideally when the softwood of osmanthus and camellia is semi-lignified; the medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite; cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip. The lower cut is dipped in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetic acid solution for 10 seconds, briefly air-dried, then inserted into the seedbed; the insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, spacing 2 cm × 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the seedbed, cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, set up a double-layer shade frame for shading, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, maintain humidity above 90%, and generally after one month a large number of cuttings will root.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: use potted wintersweet seedlings as rootstock to graft superior wintersweet varieties; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to graft white orchid, Michelia, etc. Bud grafting: use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to propagate superior Chinese rose varieties; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, plum, etc. as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, dwarf cherry, plum, elm-leaf plum, etc.; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, red maple, etc. Cleft grafting: use oil tea, red-flowered oil tea, or single-petal seedling camellia as rootstock for cleft grafting of camellia and sasanqua; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among hairy azaleas as rootstock for cleft or side grafting of Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Flowering trees that can be propagated by layering in June include: rhododendron, honeysuckle, hydrangea, snowball flower, flower, Weigela, oleander, osmanthus, camellia, plum, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, Aglaia, chloranthus, jasmine, white orchid, etc.

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: bird's nest fern, calla lily (after flowering), Buddha-belly bamboo, umbrella plant, purple-back Chinese evergreen, bromeliads, Haworthia, cast-iron plant, spider plant, Acorus, golden-edged lilyturf, etc.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting/Establishment

    1. Seed Collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus, cornflower, snapdragon, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, hollyhock, mallow, primrose, calceolaria, amaryllis (sow fresh as collected), etc.

    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in June: wintersweet seeds, if nursery conditions do not allow, can also be dry-stored until the following spring before sowing, without affecting the germination rate; peach, apricot, etc. should be sown fresh as collected, or their seeds stratified in sand until they crack and germinate before sowing in the ground; osmanthus seeds collected in June, after removing the fleshy fruit skin and washing clean, stored in moist sand to promote seed embryo after-ripening, and when they germinate, select a nursery site for sowing.

    2. Transplanting, Establishment, and Potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting, establishment, or potting, including: evening primrose, spider flower, Impatiens, Guinea Impatiens, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter coral, red tobacco, petunia, marigold, French marigold, zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, dragon's mouth flower, Kochia scoparia, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, red-green grass (Alternanthera), etc.

Entering summer, some large flowering trees are no longer transplanted to avoid affecting their survival rate and post-transplant growth. But for some small flowering shrubs, such as Japanese fatsia, Mahonia bealei, mahonia, Hypericum, gardenia, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, boxwood, under special circumstances, transplanting with a soil ball is also acceptable, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just don't let the tree know." But after transplanting, misting and shading management should be strengthened.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    Watering potted flowers in June should pay attention to the following aspects: First, watering time, preferably at 10 AM or 5 PM, generally once a day is sufficient; second, watering temperature, the irrigation water and pot soil temperature should be basically consistent; if the water temperature and soil temperature differ too much, it will cause potted flower roots and leaves to be stimulated, affecting their growth; third, combine watering and spraying; when there are several days without rain, besides watering the pots, also spray water on the leaves and around the potted flowers to increase local humidity; if there are continuous cloudy days, decide whether to water and spray based on the dryness of the pot soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red wood sorrel, geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia, etc., when temperatures reach above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, reduce watering and just keep the pot soil moist; deep dormant species such as: cyclamen, Lycoris, ranunculus, Dutch peony, etc., under high temperatures show above-ground stems and leaves withering and underground nutrient fibrous roots dying, hibernating through summer as underground stems or tuberous roots in the soil; watering must be stopped for these, move them to a cool place, and keep the pot soil from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rain, after the rain stops, comprehensively check the potted flowers. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the pot soil dries, loosen the soil to avoid root rot; or before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, stand them upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing species, such as Monstera deliciosa, spider plant, Syngonium, calathea, bird's nest fern, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, sago palm, cast-iron plant, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, green queen, rubber tree, anthurium, red-back eugenia, rhapis palm, hoop pine, Brazil iron, Buddhist pine, money tree, wintersweet, Chinese rose, white orchid, Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, plum, camellia, sasanqua, Daphne, rhododendron, fragrant osmanthus, lantana, clerodendrum, shrimp plant, bitter orange (Daidai), lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, firethorn, etc., apply well-rotted dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month; for species currently blooming, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to meet their growth and flowering/fruiting needs.

For those flower species in dormancy and semi-dormancy, fertilization must be stopped; especially for those succulent flower species, such as jade plant, Christmas cactus, Haworthia, Senecio, squirrel tail, Lampranthus, stapelia, sedum, when temperatures reach above 35°C, stop fertilizing to avoid rot.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, true cypress, oriental arborvitae, water willow (Adina), Chinese juniper, horned holly, holly, trident maple, snow willow, tamarisk, firethorn, etc., branches affecting the shape should be pruned or cut back early, which can keep the plant with clear layers and good appearance, and can promote more short branches and new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal: For flowers such as Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, Chinese rose, spent flowers and faded stems should be promptly removed, and the flowering branches should be appropriately cut back to promote lower lateral branches or flower buds to bloom again; for flowering trees such as white orchid, bitter orange (Daidai), rhododendron, camellia, wintersweet, plum, crabapple, etc., in order to promote good plant shape, more flower buds, more blooms, and better blooms in the current or next year, the excessively vigorous branches should be topped and buds removed to inhibit the growth of main and lateral shoots and promote lateral bud sprouting.

    4. Shading

    In June, for those flowering trees that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to prevent damage from scorching sun. Such as hosta, purple hosta, asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchids, rhapis palm, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, Syngonium, pink arrowhead, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, pothos, peperomia, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, red queen, fan palm, Daphne, cast-iron plant, spider plant, etc. Light-loving flower species must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, June snow, cycad, Chinese juniper, peach blossom, plum, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, Japanese apricot, horned holly, holly, water willow, oak, black pine, Japanese black pine, white orchid, Aglaia, Chinese rose, mahonia, grape, etc.; Buddhist pine, tiger thorn, nandina, Buddha-belly bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, five-needle pine, bamboo-leaf podocarpus, etc., can be given appropriate shading.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, Chinese elm, papaya, firethorn, Buddhist pine, crabapple, etc. are susceptible to damage from trunk-boring longhorn beetles; promptly use poison sticks to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose, rose (Rosa multiflora), rose (Rosa rugosa), etc. are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot during the plum rain season; spray Bordeaux mixture early for control.

(3) White orchid, plum, wintersweet, etc. are susceptible to aphid damage; promptly select appropriate pesticides to spray and kill.

(4) Orchid leaves are susceptible to anthracnose infection; promptly spray carbendazim and other fungicides for control.

(5) Bitter orange (Daidai), lemon, kumquat, Buddha's hand, etc., young leaves are susceptible to feeding by citrus swallowtail larvae; spray contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

Plant species that can be shaped in June are mainly some adaptable, wiring-tolerant woody ornamental plants, and must be plants potted in early spring for hardening or ground-planted. They are: Buddhist pine, winter jasmine, Elaeagnus, Huashan pine, oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, horned holly, holly, goji berry, five-needle pine, hanging crabapple, Xifu crabapple, plum, ornamental peach, trident maple, June snow, black pine, box-leaf holly, Chinese elm, tamarisk, water willow (Adina), true cypress, ginkgo, snow willow, firethorn, etc. June shaping must be careful, wire slowly and gently, and must not be rushed or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5, Grain in Ear; June 21, Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Manual (July Edition)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain season ends in the Jianghuai region. July 16 marks the beginning of the dog days, and August 15 marks their end. Most of the country enters the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of China is above 24°C, and 28°C in areas south of the Jianghuai. Only northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau have average July temperatures below 20°C. July flower care management mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria, Primula obconica, ornamental kale, campanula, etc. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light penetration.
    In July, ripe fruits of plum, wild peach, mountain peach, elm-leaf plum, etc. can also be picked, washed to remove the flesh, and then sown in furrows immediately, or the washed stone fruits can be stored in moist sand until they crack before sowing; wintersweet seeds can be sown fresh as collected, or the seeds extracted from the fruit capsule can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, without affecting the germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    Herbaceous flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Scutellaria, begonia, coleus, Pilea, scarlet sage, marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Dutch aster, purple loosestrife, umbrella plant, Boston ivy, coral flower, peperomia, Rhaphidophora, Polygonum, Bryophyllum, pothos, etc.
    Woody flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: red-back eugenia, nandina, poinsettia, crown of thorns, Hypericum, golden plum, Weigela, hydrangea, Weigela florida, snowball, snowflake spiraea, Daphne, gardenia, edgeworthia, Magnolia sieboldii, bougainvillea, Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, Schefflera, mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, firethorn, cordyline, hibiscus, June snow, Michelia, coral tree, rubber tree, Qiong flower, Tianmu Qiong flower, boxwood, fig, purple magnolia, osmanthus, rhododendron, camellia, sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, golden willow, etc. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July, water propagation can also be used for some flowering trees. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, chloranthus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, etc. Using water propagation for flowering trees: First, prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 cm to 2 cm thick, perforated for use as cutting fixing material; second, keep the cutting water clean; a few pieces of charcoal can be added for anti-corrosion purposes.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old mountain peach or wild peach seedlings can be used as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, Shouxing peach, red-leaf peach, plum, elm-leaf plum, red-leaf plum, Meiren mei, etc.; use cutting seedlings of wild rose, Fentuan qiangwei, and "Ten Sisters" as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate variety Chinese roses, cut-flower Chinese roses, and roses; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate white orchid, Michelia, etc.; use potted 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate superior wintersweet varieties; 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings can also be used as rootstock, using softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm above the ground, and survival can be determined after 7 to 10 days; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among hairy azaleas as rootstock for cleft or side grafting to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; use cherry seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior cherry blossom varieties; use current-year seedling of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, or hanging crabapple, crabapple as rootstock, perform "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate superior crabapple varieties; use trident maple seedlings as rootstock, bagged grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and other seedlings.
    4. Layering
    Flowering trees that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, trumpet creeper, Qiong flower, oleander, Weigela, Caragana, osmanthus, gardenia, purple magnolia, jasmine, chloranthus, climbing Chinese rose, winter jasmine, etc.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta, purple hosta, Acorus, umbrella plant, cast-iron plant, purple-back Chinese evergreen, bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, lilyturf, Reineckea, rain lily, bird's nest fern, iris, Tradescantia, etc. II. Seed Collection and Transplanting/Establishment
    1. Seed Collection
    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, Phlox, foxglove, Coreopsis, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, Lampranthus, etc.
    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, plum, wild peach, mountain peach, elm-leaf plum, etc.
    2. Transplanting, planting out and potting up
    July is the main period for potting up herbaceous flowers for the National Day display. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted up at this time can be seedlings from seed or from cuttings; after 3 months of careful care, they will come into bloom right around the National Day holiday, to be used for festive decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia, Guinea impatiens, snapdragon, marigold, French marigold, summer cypress, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, and so on.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under certain special circumstances, transplanting some flowering shrubs with root balls is also feasible, such as Mahonia, Hypericum, golden privet, red-leaf barberry, Aucuba, and Chinese juniper balls. However, targeted pruning must be carried out, shade frames must be set up in time, and the frequency of misting must be increased; only after they have basically established should they be returned to normal management. Never be careless.
III. Flower management
    1. Watering
For flower species that enter a semi-dormant state at high temperatures, such as red wood sorrel, Pelargonium species, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, Begonia species, Sedum, kalanchoe, Cactus species, Haworthia, Stapelia gigantea, string of pearls, Senecio radicans, Daphne, Christmas cactus, Portulacaria afra, aloe, and so on, because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low; watering should be reduced, the potting soil kept moist, and attention paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, the plants are prone to root rot, and this will also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.
For flower species that enter a deep dormant state at high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, Persian buttercup, and bleeding heart, in July the above-ground stems and leaves wither and the underground nutrient fibrous roots die back; they overwinter the summer dormant in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For flowers in deep dormancy, watering must be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the potting soil should simply be kept from becoming too dry.
For flower species that grow vigorously, especially foliage plants such as sago palm, cast-iron plant, Swiss cheese plant, rubber tree, white orchid, jasmine, Aglaia, Chloranthus, Norfolk Island pine, Calathea species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, green queen, pink-striped leaf, Brazilian iron, money tree, camellia, sasanqua, Aucuba, firethorn, bitter orange, lemon, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, and so on, not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but the foliage should also be misted appropriately, combining watering and misting. Especially during consecutive overcast days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and misting should likewise be given; never be negligent. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first mist the foliage, and after the leaves recover and stand up, then water the roots. Never pour water forcefully at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or cause the plants' nutrient fibrous roots to rot, or even cause the plants to die.
For potted plum bonsai, since July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves of the potted plant slightly curled inward on both sides, in order to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second flush of new shoots produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest; flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axils of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, the few hours before and after noon should be avoided; watering in the morning before 10 o'clock and after 4 o'clock in the afternoon is preferable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain, and if water is found accumulated in the pots, pour it out in time; after the potting soil has dried slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of the potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, there are four major categories of ornamental plants whose fertilization management should be strengthened. The first is species with a particularly long flowering period, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as white magnolia, Chinese rose, Aglaia, and jasmine; the second is species that bloom abundantly in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, and cotton rose; the third is species grown for winter flowers and fruit, such as bitter orange, nandina, wintersweet, and azalea; the fourth is foliage plants, such as palm grass, Swiss cheese plant, Philodendron, and rubber tree. As for the types of fertilizer: for the first three categories, besides the necessary nitrogen fertilizer as a top dressing, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for their budding, flowering, and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the application method, applying thin liquid fertilizer as a drench is preferable.
    The herbaceous flowers whose fertilization should be strengthened in July include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, gold shrimp plant, shrimp plant, Jian orchid, marigold, four o'clock flower, snapdragon, and so on. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, banana shrub, osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, white orchid, Aglaia, night-blooming jasmine, Chinese rose, Malus species, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, azalea, Chloranthus, wintersweet, rose of Sharon, cotton rose, and so on. There are relatively many kinds of foliage plants, such as Bromeliad species, Brazilian iron, palm grass, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, Calathea, green giant, red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, Swiss cheese plant, Cordyline, and so on.
   In July, for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, fertilization must be stopped; especially for those succulent ornamental plants, such as Sedum species, Senecio, Lampranthus, and Orbea, fertilization must be stopped even more, to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be tip-pruned and bud-pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means using the fingers to directly pinch off the tender terminal bud at the tip. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, red nanmu, Euonymus bungeanus, boxleaf euonymus, wintersweet, firethorn, Buddhist pine, Chinese tamarisk, Elaeagnus, Adina, Vitex, forsythia, hackberry, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese ash, trident maple, crape myrtle, serissa, orange jasmine, and so on. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of the new shoot, prompting the lower lateral buds to sprout and form beautiful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are not convenient to pinch with the fingers, such as Chinese juniper, Oriental arborvitae, Sabina chinensis, creeping juniper, oak, holly fern, and shimpaku.
For those potted flower species that bloom continuously over a long period, such as Aglaia, Chinese rose, jasmine, and Chloranthus, the spent flowers and withered stalks should be removed in time, and the branches that have bloomed should be cut back as necessary, which can prompt the lower lateral buds to sprout and bloom again; for azalea, camellia, sasanqua, Malus, wintersweet, plum blossom, and so on, the overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be cut back, in order to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperatures of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun, such as ferns, hosta, purple hosta, Swiss cheese plant, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchid species, palm grass, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron, pink-striped leaf, pothos, Peperomia species, cast-iron plant, inch plant, Brazilian iron, Rhaphidophora, Bromeliad species, Calathea species, and ribbon grass.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, firethorn, jasmine, serissa, sago palm, Sabina chinensis, Oriental arborvitae, peach, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, trident maple, black pine, Adina, oak, Pinus parviflora, white orchid, Aglaia, Chinese rose, and so on. For Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine, banana shrub, Damnacanthus, cloud bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, five-needle pine, and so on, however, appropriate shading is necessary.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature is too high this month and the air is relatively dry, besides giving the necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand; this can reduce evaporation from the surface of the potting soil and also help protect the plants' nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, flower species with a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or with a relatively thick cuticle on the leaf surface, somewhat tolerant of dry environments, and with strong resistance should be chosen, such as rubber tree, Japanese fatsia, Mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Hibiscus, Chinese fan palm, palm grass, Canary Island date palm, Bromeliad species, Philodendron, Swiss cheese plant, Schefflera, cast-iron plant, Aucuba, and so on, while kidney fern, coleus, green giant, Syngonium, and so on are not suitable. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and misting, and keeping away from air-conditioner vents, to prevent the wind from blowing directly on the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf margins to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are prone to infection by anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and, in severe cases, can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year; poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous overcast rain are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the onset period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the root crowns or trunks of plum blossom, peach, Malus species, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, and Elm-leaved spirea, it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Methods such as manual extraction and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of poisoned plugs, and soil application of carbofuran can be used for control, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunks. Note that when injecting pesticides, dimethoate, omethoate, and the like should be avoided, to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, timely control should be carried out against the box tree webworm that harms boxleaf euonymus, boxleaf euonymus, sharp-leaf euonymus, and pearl euonymus; when this pest occurs severely, it can gnaw all the leaves bare. Once discovered, pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate can be sprayed promptly. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and the pest has developed resistance, a new pesticide type can be substituted.
(4) In July, in some areas, the larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly will continue to harm the leaves of new shoots of bitter orange, kumquat, gold bean, finger citron, lemon, citron, and rue; stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) The white wax insect that harms privet, small-leaf privet, water wax, and white wax tree has its emergence period from late July to late August; the timing must be chosen accurately to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the white wax insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest harming large-leaf euonymus, plane tree, Pittosporum, camellia, red-leaf plum, and deodar cedar; in severe cases, the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of the nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai styling
    In July, because the temperature is high, the air humidity is low, and the plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branch wounds are prone to infection by pathogens and are not easy to heal and recover, so most tree stump species are no longer suitable for further wiring and styling. The plant species that can still be styled are some with strong adaptability and tolerance for wiring, and the plants must be ones that were potted up and hardened off in spring or planted in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Buddhist pine,Thuja standishii, Calocedrus, serissa, black pine, boxleaf euonymus, Adina, and so on.
    In July, plant styling must be done carefully and meticulously, wiring gently and slowly, applying force gradually; do not operate hastily or use too much force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plant's branches and trunk to break, endangering its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Handbook: Autumn

Flower Planting Handbook (August volume)

Flowers suitable for display in courtyards
    August has high temperatures, strong light, and low humidity, and is the high-temperature, dry-hot period of the year second only to July; the monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for display in courtyards are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among the woody flowers are mainly: Norfolk Island pine, black pine, Pinus parviflora, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese umbrella pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, armand pine, Buddhist pine, Sabina chinensis, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea, cinnamon tree, Aglaia, pomegranate, rubber tree, variegated fig, Chinese hibiscus, lantana, coral tree (Erythrina), Dutch iron, croton, Brazilian wood, palm grass, money tree, Schefflera, frangipani, four-season osmanthus, oleander, Washington palm, palm, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Japanese fatsia, gold-dusted Aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese rose, and so on. Herbaceous flowers include: impatiens, large-flowered canna, shell ginger, scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, bamboo-node Begonia, snapdragon, marigold, French marigold, phlox, ornamental pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, pot marigold, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four o'clock flower, zinnia, and so on. In addition there are cast-iron plant, Guangdong evergreen, Philodendron, Swiss cheese plant, pothos, silver-veined Aglaonema, and so on.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony, Elm-leaved spirea, red camellia, summer wintersweet, American summersweet, Buddhist pine, and so on; they can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be sown in bags after sand storage for germination. Ornamental pomegranate is harvested after the fruit matures and cracks open; rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, store in sand until germination, then sow. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, fanflower, petunia, snapdragon, purple coneflower, Oxalis species, yarrow, nasturtium, pyrethrum, and so on. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, wax Begonia, fairy primrose, coleus, pot marigold, and so on.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed medium prepared from alkaline-leached rice-hull ash and wet fine sand in a 2:1 ratio for moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings, the following flower and tree species can be propagated: firethorn, Mahonia species, wintersweet, banana shrub, bougainvillea, coral tree, Aglaia, gold-dusted Aucuba, Guelder rose, snowball, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus, rubber tree, Galax, Buddhist pine, Schefflera species, Cordyline, hydrangea, purple magnolia, and so on. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, and the like as the medium, cuttings can be taken of Euonymus species, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, French holly, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, serissa, Spiraea, bridal wreath, gardenia, and so on. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, and sulfur cosmos can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flower and tree grafts can be carried out: in northern regions, use fringetree as the rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use purple magnolia and white magnolia as rootstocks and bud-graft to propagate Saucer magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as the rootstock and cleft-graft white orchid; use the current-year seedling of wild peach as the rootstock and bud-graft plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf cherry, and Elm-leaved spirea; use cherry seedling as the rootstock and bud-graft Japanese cherry; use wild rose and pink cluster rose as rootstocks and bud-graft superior varieties of Chinese rose; use Malus baccata, crabapple, and Hubei crabapple seedlings as rootstocks and bud-graft Midget crabapple and Hall crabapple; use green maple as the rootstock and change the crown by grafting red maple and feather maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as the rootstock and cleft-graft variegated weeping fig; use single-petal camellia as the rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of camellia; use seedling wintersweet as the rootstock and cleft-graft or side-graft superior varieties of wintersweet. In addition, cleft grafting can be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, banksia rose, climbing Chinese rose, weigela, hydrangea, Guelder rose, snowball, oleander, gardenia, broom, winter jasmine, forsythia, Japanese quince, Hall crabapple, Midget crabapple, osmanthus species, purple magnolia, jasmine, Chloranthus, banana shrub, Chinese hibiscus, Buddhist pine, coral tree, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia (air layering), red maple (air layering), and so on.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: ribbon grass, hosta, purple hosta, little angel, multi-headed green emperor, Bromeliad, Solomon's seal, cast-iron plant, umbrella plant, Adina, red (green) gem, iris, blackberry lily, purple triangular wood sorrel, Guangdong evergreen, Dutch aster, fine-leaf sweet flag, kidney fern, silver-veined Aglaonema, Calathea species, Syngonium, Haworthia, and so on. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, freesia, and so on can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of flowers planted in the ground in courtyards
1. Transplanting. In August, when some flowering shrubs are transplanted with large root balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, shade, watering, and misting management should be strengthened after transplanting, and a relatively high survival rate can be achieved, such as golden privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-edged qiantou arborvitae, golden-heart (golden-edge) euonymus, Hypericum, Mahonia, Japanese fatsia, Chinese rose, azalea, gardenia, Buddhist pine, banana shrub, Chinese juniper ball, Sabina ball, euonymus ball, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, Aucuba, French holly, and so on. In courtyards, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and planted out, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, snapdragon, and so on, which can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, roadside hedges in courtyards such as euonymus, small-leaf privet, privet, golden privet, French holly, and Photinia should continue to be pruned. Ground-planted ball plants, such as Photinia, Chinese juniper, Sabina, bayberry, firethorn, Pittosporum, holly fern, and holly, must also be pruned again. For ground-planted flowers and trees that bloom continuously over a long period, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, and lantana, spent flowers should be removed in time, and the branch tips cut back moderately. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, French marigold, and marigold, tip pruning and pinching should be given.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and herbaceous flowers planted out, watering and misting management should be strengthened; for plants with straw ropes tied around their trunks, the straw ropes should be misted wet, ensuring that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves; mist more and water cautiously, ensuring that water does not accumulate at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for ground-planted red-flower Loropetalum, golden-edged (golden-heart) euonymus, red-leaf barberry, golden privet, purple-leaf sand cherry, croton, red mulberry, gold-dusted Aucuba, and shell ginger, in order to keep the leaf color vivid for a long time, a quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied as a top dressing. For species that bloom continuously, such as Chinese rose, daily-fragrant osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, flowering pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, and dahlia, as well as species about to bloom, such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, and autumn peony, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly as a drench. For camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, and wintersweet, which are in the midst of flower bud differentiation, a small amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed as a foliar top dressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on deodar cedar, privet, Pittosporum, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, and camellia, spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution promptly for control. For chrysanthemum beetles, aphids, and so on occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution to kill them. For larvae such as the rose sawfly and cotton leafworm that gnaw on Chinese rose leaves, spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution promptly for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, Elm-leaved spirea, red camellia, Buddhist pine, and summersweet. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony, moss rose, four o'clock flower, phlox, California poppy, and snow-in-summer.
Management of potted flowers in courtyards
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 in the morning and after 4 o'clock in the afternoon, keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For those ornamental plant species that prefer acidity, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that: for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as calceolaria, gloxinia, iron cross Begonia, and hairy-leaf Begonia, water droplets that land on the leaf surface are not easily evaporated and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting may be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the leaf rosette of clivia also must not be drenched with water; dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for Bromeliad species, watering must be reduced and misting increased, and water must be poured into the leaf tanks to meet their needs. This month, while watering and misting potted plants, attention must also be paid to loosening the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to become compacted. For flower species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, watering and misting should be controlled, just enough to keep the potting soil slightly moist; by misting the small environment around the flower pots, a relatively cool and moist environment can be created for them.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants such as Swiss cheese plant, cast-iron plant, rubber tree, Philodendron, palm grass, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, queen palm, pygmy date palm, areca palm, fishtail palm, Chinese fan palm, pothos, Brazilian wood, Dutch iron, money tree, kidney fern, umbrella tree, Fagraea (African jasmine), cinnamon tree (peace tree), coin tree (dragon-phoenix tree), Syngonium, green emperor, green queen, poinsettia, pink-striped leaf, Schefflera, Aucuba, parlor palm, croton, Japanese fatsia, and so on, a low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with a long flowering period, such as Chinese rose, white orchid, jasmine, Chloranthus, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia, four-season osmanthus, daily-fragrant osmanthus, bougainvillea, and lantana, as well as fruiting ones such as bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia, firethorn, golden bullet, fruit pomegranate, nandina, and papaya, besides ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should also be applied as a top dressing, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, drought chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, snapdragon, China aster, chrysanthemum, and dwarf sunflower, a thin liquid fertilizer can be applied once every half month, ensuring lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flower and tree species in the midst of flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, osmanthus, and azalea, a low-concentration phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should be applied as a foliar top dressing. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip onto the leaves, lest it cause leaf rot. To be safe, after fertilizing, mist the foliage promptly once to wash away any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, such as clivia, wax Begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, Daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, Portulacaria afra, Christmas cactus, Sedum species, purple triangular wood sorrel, Cactus species, and ball cacti, all forms of top dressing must be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plants to rot at the roots or die.
3. Shading. In August, the summer heat is still intense, and shading management for courtyard potted flowers remains very important. For those ornamental plant species that prefer coolness, such as Swiss cheese plant, Philodendron, little angel, rubber tree, areca palm, green giant, Syngonium, Calathea species, red (green) gem, palm grass, pothos, green emperor, green queen, orchid grass species, pink-striped leaf, Peperomia, Bromeliad species, Adina, mirror grass, ferns, Buddha belly bamboo, bamboo, spider plant, ribbon grass, parlor palm, laceleaf, purple velvet plant, bloodleaf, silver-veined Aglaonema, black-leaf Alocasia, crystal anthurium, anthurium, Begonia species, lucky bamboo, cast-iron plant, asparagus fern, purple hosta, and so on, shade frames can continue to be given; pull on the shade net at 9 in the morning and remove it after 4 in the afternoon. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours before and after noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and moved out from under the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, for those tree stump bonsai that grow vigorously, tolerate pruning, and sprout easily, continue to give pinching or pruning, such as Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese ash, Adina, and boxleaf euonymus. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia, and so on, cut back after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and bud thinning?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control should be carried out against pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail, rose sawfly, and peach red-necked longhorn beetle. Attention should be paid to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Attention should be paid to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers.
Potted plants suitable for display on balconies
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry-hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or that have been placed on the balcony for a long time can adapt. Such as black pine, Pinus parviflora, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, Adina, holly fern, holly, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, boxleaf euonymus, Oriental arborvitae stump, Sabina chinensis, creeping juniper, oak, Chinese ash, Fujian tea, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave, lantana, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia, trident maple, Buddhist pine, and so on. In August, part of the flowers and trees on the balcony can be moved indoors where there is air conditioning, such as large-flowered cymbidium, Dendrobium orchid, Cattleya orchid, Chinese cymbidium, Vanda orchid, Oncidium orchid, South American cycad, black-leaf Alocasia, crystal anthurium, anthurium, green giant, red (green) gem, Calathea, areca palm, king coconut, little angel, Swiss cheese plant, cast-iron plant, pothos, palm grass, money tree, clivia, fuchsia, laceleaf, gold shrimp plant, Brazilian wood, Japanese fatsia, and so on.
Propagation of balcony flowers
In August, on the balcony, a large-mouth flower pot covered with plastic film can be used for moisture-retaining cuttings of some ornamental plants; the cutting medium can be rice-hull ash mixed with fine sand in a 2:1 ratio, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera, gold-dusted Aucuba, bamboo-node Begonia, gardenia, gold shrimp plant, coral flower, daily-fragrant osmanthus, Chloranthus, Cordyline, jasmine, Guangdong evergreen, silver-veined Aglaonema, camellia, sasanqua, banana shrub, and so on; during the 5 to 6 hours before and after noon, they should be moved indoors. Indoors, some ornamental plants can also be propagated by water cuttings, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus, Schefflera, Aucuba, fig, Cordyline, frangipani, Pelargonium, Guangdong evergreen, and fuchsia.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and misting of balcony potted flowers must be done carefully and cautiously. First, avoid too great a difference between the water temperature and the soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the timing of watering and misting, which can be done before 10 in the morning and after 4 in the afternoon; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of the potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water, to meet the needs of most ornamental plants that prefer a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a simple sand pool can be built with bricks, filled with 10 cm of wet sand, and then some potted flowers that are relatively moisture-loving can be placed on the wet sand, such as: Swiss cheese plant, cast-iron plant, little angel, camellia, sasanqua, Syngonium, spring orchid, Jian orchid, Bromeliad species, red (green) gem, and Chloranthus; usually misting instead of watering is very beneficial for them to pass the summer safely. For large-flowered cymbidium, tiger orchid, Oncidium orchid, Cattleya orchid, fuchsia, Dendrobium orchid, crystal anthurium, and black-leaf Alocasia, they can be moved indoors where there is air conditioning, using misting instead of watering, ensuring they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, boxleaf euonymus, trident maple, black pine, Pinus parviflora, wisteria, Fujian tea, Adina, agave, and sago palm, they can be watered 1 to 2 times a day and misted 1 to 2 times a day.
2. Fertilizing. In August, fertilization must be stopped for balcony potted plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state. For vigorously growing foliage plants, 0.3% urea solution can be sprayed or applied as a drench, or multi-element compound fertilizer granules can be scattered on the pot surface. For flowers and trees grown mainly for flowers and fruit, such as white orchid, Aglaia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, and kumquat, quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should be applied continuously as a top dressing. For Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, holly fern, holly, Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, trident maple, Adina, and boxleaf euonymus, after each pruning, a thin fertilizer can be applied once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full light, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai such as five-needle pine, Buddhist pine, Sabina chinensis, Fujian tea, plum blossom, and trident maple, soft grass, moss, or wet cloth can be spread over the pot surface, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature, and also protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a shade net can be used to block light. If there are not many potted flowers and trees on the balcony and they are relatively precious, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours before and after noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, serissa, Chinese ash, oak, small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Sabina chinensis, Oriental arborvitae, small-leaf privet, boxleaf euonymus, and firethorn, pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For other potted ornamental plants, spent flowers, withered stalks, dead branches, and yellow leaves should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and should be sprayed promptly with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowers and trees, they can be removed by using transparent adhesive tape. For aphids that frequently appear on chrysanthemums, it is advisable to spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution

Flower Planting Handbook (September volume)

Flowers suitable for display in courtyards
In September, temperatures in most parts of our country gradually decline, with monthly average temperatures between 20°C and 24°C. There are relatively many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for display in courtyards this month. Among the woody ornamental plant species are: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese umbrella pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian cycad, Fagraea, cinnamon species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, variegated fig, Chinese hibiscus, cotton rose, Dutch iron, croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, Schefflera, palm grass, frangipani, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Japanese fatsia, gold-dusted Aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm tree, Chinese rose, fishtail palm, areca palm, king coconut, Cordyline, pygmy date palm, fiddle-leaf fig, red maple, South American cycad, spruce species, Schefflera, Fukugi (Clusiaceae), large Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch, Aglaia, white orchid, orange jasmine, umbrella tree, nandina, and so on. Herbaceous flowers include: large-flowered canna, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, bamboo-node Begonia, marigold, ornamental pepper, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, snapdragon, and so on.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red camellia, banana shrub species, magnolia species, manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summersweet, Canary Island date palm, and so on. Among them, horse chestnut seeds can be sown in furrows; when sowing, the hilum should face down, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm; cover with plastic film or straw to retain moisture. Summersweet seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing in the ground, and seedlings will emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for summersweet, which can be stored dry until spring sowing, all the above seeds must be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers; herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, carnation, tall catchfly, dwarf catchfly, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, and verbena. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, nasturtium, cineraria, wax Begonia, Gerbera, and calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but must overwinter in a plastic tunnel.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice-hull ash as the cutting medium, flower and tree species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in courtyards include: firethorn, Mahonia, banana shrub, bougainvillea, Weigela, gold-dusted Aucuba, fuchsia, Guelder rose, snowball, weigela, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus, golden-vein Justicia, coral flower, rubber tree, Schefflera, Cordyline, and so on. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: Euonymus species, purple magnolia, Hypericum, Spiraea, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bridal wreath, hydrangea, French holly, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, serissa, gardenia, Japanese fatsia, Japanese quince, and tree peony. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, and cold chrysanthemum.
3. Grafting. The following flower and tree grafts can be carried out: use peony root sections as the rootstock and graft superior varieties of tree peony; use wild peach, apricot, and other seedlings as rootstocks and bud-graft Elm-leaved spirea, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, and so on; use green maple seedlings as the rootstock and bag-moistened cleft-graft red maple, feather maple, and so on; use white magnolia seedlings as the rootstock and bud-graft superior varieties of white magnolia and Saucer magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as the rootstock and cleft-graft white orchid; use citrus seedlings as the rootstock and bud-graft kumquat and so on; use fringetree as the rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as the rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: Japanese quince, weigela, hydrangea, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, forsythia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, jasmine, banana shrub, camellia, Chloranthus, French holly, snowball, Guelder rose, bridal wreath, and Spiraea.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: spring orchid, cymbidium, Jian orchid, peony, tree peony, Guangdong evergreen, purple triangular wood sorrel, Rudbeckia, snake plant, little angel, multi-headed green emperor, silver-veined Aglaonema, kidney fern, nandina, Japanese quince, purple magnolia, silver-striped lilyturf, cast-iron plant, and large-leaf dwarf lilyturf. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, Lycoris, and Spanish bluebell can also have their bulblets divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of flowers planted in the ground in courtyards
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there is a special need, flower and tree transplanting is generally not carried out in courtyards. If it is for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out provided the root ball is well formed. Species such as: oleander, Chinese juniper, banana shrub, Sabina, osmanthus, camellia, red-leaf barberry, golden privet, Euonymus species, Hypericum, French holly, red-flower Loropetalum, gold-dusted Aucuba, and so on. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and watering, misting, and shading management must be strengthened to ensure that transplanting is absolutely safe. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted up, for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, French marigold, snapdragon, cockscomb, periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, and so on.
2. Pruning. Continue to prune the vigorously growing courtyard hedges and ball ornamental plants with strong sprouting ability; this is also the last pruning of the growing season this year for ball plants in northern regions. The main courtyard hedge and color-block tree species suitable for pruning are: Euonymus species, French holly, Photinia, privet, small-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden privet, golden-edged qiantou arborvitae, and so on. The ball ornamental plants suitable for pruning are: Chinese juniper, Sabina, euonymus, bayberry, holly fern, holly, Photinia, Pittosporum, firethorn, forsythia, and so on. Those that can be tip-pruned and pinched among ground-planted herbaceous flowers are: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, summer cypress, marigold, French marigold, and so on. It is advisable to pinch once every 10 days to prompt them to form a full plant shape and produce more inflorescences on the lateral shoots; stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that bloom continuously over a long period, such as variety Chinese rose, floribunda rose, miniature rose, climbing Chinese rose, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, lantana, and bougainvillea, promptly cut off spent flowers and withered stalks, and moderately cut back the branches that have bloomed, which can effectively promote them to bloom again.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry; continuing to do a good job of watering and misting management for trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in spring of the same year in the courtyard is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, mist the straw ropes wrapped around the trunks, creating a locally moist protective layer for the trunk; third, mist the crown to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for successively newly planted herbaceous flowers, good misting and moisture-retaining work should also be done.
4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden privet, red-leaf barberry, red maple, red-flower Loropetalum, shell ginger, croton, gold-dusted Aucuba, red mulberry, red-leaf sand cherry, red-leaf plum, and red-leaf peach, in order to keep the leaf color always fresh and vivid, phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should be applied appropriately as a top dressing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that bloom continuously or are grown for autumn flowers and fruit, such as crape myrtle, Chinese rose, daily-fragrant osmanthus, four-season tangerine, flowering pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, lantana, nandina, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, and kumquat, as well as a large number of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, a quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied as a top dressing. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, and orange osmanthus that are in bloom, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth that harms crape myrtle, firethorn, Malus, and other flowers and trees, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution for control; for the star longhorn beetle that harms crape myrtle, papaya, and Malus, insert poisoned plugs at the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, use 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution for control in the early stage of onset.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flower and tree species of the Magnoliaceae. Such as Oyama magnolia, banana shrub, purple magnolia, white magnolia, Yunshan white orchid, Lichang Michelia, many-flowered Michelia, Michelia maudiae, and southern magnolia, and so on. In addition, there are horse chestnut species, crape myrtle, lilac, Malus species, redbud, pearl bush, yew, and glossy wintersweet, and so on. Magnoliaceae as well as yew, horse chestnut, and Malus species, among others, after the seeds are treated, must be stored in wet sand until early spring of the following year, and sown in the ground after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, impatiens, four o'clock flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, and China aster; after collection, thresh promptly and store dry until spring of the following year for sowing.
Management of potted flowers in courtyards
1. Watering. In September, the light is relatively strong, the temperature is relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so the watering management of potted flowers must not be neglected. As for watering frequency, for generally moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month they can be watered or misted once each in the morning and afternoon, and in the second half of the month reduced to watering once, with appropriate misting of the foliage. For most potted flowers and bonsai, they can be watered once a day, supplemented by misting the foliage. Watering time is before 10 in the morning and after 3 in the afternoon. For ornamental plant species that prefer an acidic environment, a small amount of 0.1% light-green ferrous sulfate powder can be added to the irrigation water. For flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer and resume growth after autumn, the amount and frequency of watering (or misting) can be gradually increased. While watering potted plants, the plants should be loosened around the soil once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is a period of vigorous growth for most flowers. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as temperatures gradually cool, so great attention should be paid to fertilizer management this month. For foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Pachira aquatica, Dracaena fragrans, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, Fagraea fragrans, Cinnamomum species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Araucaria heterophylla, Caryota mitis, Epipremnum aureum, red (green) gem, green emperor, silver queen, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, and Ficus lyrata, continue to apply mainly low-concentration dilute fertilizer solution, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flowering trees and shrubs with an exceptionally long blooming period or those whose peak blooming season is autumn, such as Rosa chinensis, Lantana camara, Lantana montevidensis, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', and Osmanthus fragrans, fruit-viewing plants such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Diospyros cathayensis, Callicarpa bodinieri, and ornamental pomegranate, and colorful-leaf plants such as Codiaeum variegatum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Bromeliaceae species, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Cordyline fruticosa, and Coleus scutellarioides, top-dress with a fertilizer type that balances nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For Fuchsia hybrida, Pelargonium hortorum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Begonia semperflorens, Daphne odora, Schlumbergera truncata, Sedum species, Portulacaria afra, Oxalis triangularis, Clivia miniata, and Epiphyllum hybridum, which are resuming growth, resume applying low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the flower bud enlargement stage, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Michelia figo, and Rhododendron species, top-dress with a low-concentration fertilizer type with balanced nutrition; for potted herbaceous flowers such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Chrysanthemum morifolium, Callistephus chinensis, Dahlia pinnata, and dwarf sunflower, top-dress with a light fertilizer every 10 days to meet their needs for bud formation and blooming next month.
3. Shading. In September, temperatures are still high and sunlight is still intense, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For shade-loving foliage plant species such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Nephrolepis exaltata 'Bostoniensis', Asplenium nidus, Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, Epipremnum aureum, Rhapis excelsa, green emperor, silver queen, orchids, Dieffenbachia seguine, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Aspidistra elatior, Begonia species, Epipremnum pinnatum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', red (green) gem, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Odontonema strictum, Asparagus setaceus, Schefflera arboricola, Pteris cretica 'Albolineata', Peperomia argyreia, Dieffenbachia maculata, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Anthurium andraeanum, Platycerium bifurcatum, Pilea peperomioides, Adina pilulifera, king palm, and Dracaena sanderiana, provide 5 to 6 hours of light per day through shading; for light-loving species such as Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Ginkgo biloba, Adina rubella, Pinus thunbergii, Platycladus orientalis (bonsai), Juniperus chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Araucaria heterophylla, Wisteria sinensis, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Pyracantha fortuneana, Rosa chinensis, Xylosma congestum, and Fraxinus chinensis, full sunlight may be given; for semi-shade-loving species such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pinus parviflora, Damnacanthus indicus, Syzygium buxifolium, Loropetalum chinense, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Nandina domestica, Crassula ovata, Rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', and Fortunella margarita, appropriate shading may be given around noon. Newly transplanted potted autumn herbaceous flowers should also be appropriately shaded to prevent wilting and to avoid affecting their recovery and growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue the work of bud removal and disbudding; for Rosa chinensis, Punica granatum var. pleniflorum, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Lantana camara, Pachystachys lutea, and Justicia carnea, prune after each flowering; for tree-stump bonsai species that tolerate pruning, readily sprout, and grow vigorously, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Syzygium buxifolium, Ligustrum sinense, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (bonsai), Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii, Fraxinus chinensis, and Tamarix chinensis, continue pruning or bud pinching. In addition, Pachira aquatica seedlings can be braided into a "braid" and potted up.
5. Pest and disease control. For Aromia bungii appearing on potted Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis, Prunus persica 'Dulis', and Prunus persica 'Duplex', poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, or carbofuran granules can be buried for control. For Ceroplastes japonicus, Icerya purchasi, Diaspididae, and Eriococcus species appearing on potted flowering trees, use 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, balconies still have strong sunlight and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have long been placed on balconies or potted flowering trees with relatively strong resistance can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora 'Jin Song', Pinus densiflora, Pinus parviflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Acer buergerianum, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, ornamental pomegranate, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (bonsai), Juniperus chinensis, Carmona retusa, Fraxinus chinensis, Ficus microcarpa, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Rosa chinensis, Agave americana, Ginkgo biloba, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Celtis sinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Hemiptelea davidii, Serissa japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, and Lantana camara. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Oncidium species, Dendrobium species, Cattleya species, Vanda species, Hymenocallis species, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Clivia miniata, Fuchsia hybrida, and Fittonia verschaffeltii; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Dracaena concinna, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', and Schefflera arboricola. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony, you can continue to use large-diameter flower pots as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of half rice chaff ash and half wet sand, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and can cuttings-propagate some ornamental plants, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Cordyline fruticosa, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera arboricola, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Michelia figo, and Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Bay'. You can also water-propagate Schefflera arboricola, Rosa chinensis, Gardenia jasminoides, Ficus carica, and Aglaonema modestum indoors.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer moisture, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Chloranthus spicatus, and Bromeliaceae species, they can be placed on wooden slats over a balcony water pool or water tank, or placed in a simple self-built sand pool, and ordinarily spraying water can replace watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, spraying should also be increased and watering reduced, so as to keep the pot soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, water should be sprayed at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even the relatively drought-tolerant Pinus parviflora bonsai will dehydrate and die if not watered or sprayed for 5 to 7 days. For potted ornamental plants with relatively strong resistance placed on the balcony, you can continue to water once a day and spray 1 to 2 times a day, or use the immersion method to prevent the phenomenon of the pot soil being wet on top and dry below. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, paying attention that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, also appropriately apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for vigorously growing potted bonsai, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowering trees mainly grown for flowers and fruit, such as Michelia alba, Rosa chinensis, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Pyracantha fortuneana, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, and Fortunella margarita, continue top-dressing with quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Osmanthus fragrans, and Chrysanthemum morifolium, according to the different species, appropriately apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium compound fertilizer. For fertilizing flowers on the balcony, the fertilizer type should not have an unusual odor, especially not a foul odor, and when applying, be careful not to splash down to the floor below, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the pot soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when there are not many potted flowers, they can be moved indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull up shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Platycladus orientalis (bonsai), Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Ligustrum sinense, and Fraxinus chinensis, pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowering trees, dead branches, yellow leaves, and spent flowers and stems should also be removed promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, on the balcony with high temperature and dry air, potted flowering trees are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be sprayed with 25% fenpropathrin wettable powder at 1500 times dilution; for Semanotus bifasciatus on Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Juniperus chinensis, and Juniperus rigida bonsai, and Aromia bungii on Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis, Chaenomeles sinensis, and Prunus persica 'Dulis', continue inserting poison sticks or burying carbofuran for control; for various scale insects harming Camellia japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lagerstroemia indica, and Chimonanthus praecox, when the number is small they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October Chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month there are many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which woody ornamental plant species include: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus parviflora, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Picea species, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Cycas revoluta, Phoenix canariensis, Yucca elephantipes, Fagraea fragrans, Cinnamomum kotoense, Osmanthus fragrans, Hibiscus mutabilis, Ficus elastica, Schefflera arboricola, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pseudolarix amabilis, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Rhapis excelsa, Beaucarnea recurvata, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ficus microcarpa var. crassifolia, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, Adenium obesum, Zamia furfuracea, Garcinia subelliptica, Bambusa ventricosa, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Grevillea robusta, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Dracaena concinna, Murraya paniculata, and Nandina domestica. Herbaceous flowers include: Salvia splendens, Canna generalis, Dahlia pinnata, Callistephus chinensis, Chrysanthemum morifolium, small chrysanthemum, Begonia 'Coccinea', Antirrhinum majus, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Capsicum annuum, Celosia cristata, Calendula officinalis, Catharanthus roseus, Gomphrena globosa, Petunia hybrida, and Impatiens hawkeri. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China, and other places, when temperatures drop below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flower species planted in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: Paeonia suffruticosa, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, Aesculus species, Calycanthus chinensis, Ardisia crenata, Sapindus mukorossi, Ilex kudingcha, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Viburnum tinus, Elaeocarpus decipiens, Phoenix roebelenii, Taxus chinensis, Livistona chinensis, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Cinnamomum camphora, Weigela coraeensis, Trachycarpus fortunei, and Taxodium distichum. Among them, when sowing Aesculus species, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing Calycanthus chinensis, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except that the seeds of Calycanthus chinensis and Weigela coraeensis can be dry-stored until spring sowing, the other species can all have their seeds cleaned and then stored in wet sand to promote germination until spring when the seeds crack and show white, and then be sown. Note that before storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean; the moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and breaks apart when released; the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: Althaea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Papaver rhoeas, Calendula officinalis, Antirrhinum majus, Dianthus species, Viola tricolor, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Belamcanda chinensis, Silene armeria, Silene coeli-rosa, Eschscholzia californica, Bellis perennis, Rudbeckia hirta, Iris species, and Verbena hybrida. Greenhouse flowers such as Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, Petunia hybrida, Pericallis hybrida, Primula obconica, Gerbera jamesonii, and Calceolaria herbeohybrida can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Schefflera arboricola, Telosma cordata, Lantana camara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Mahonia species, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia figo, Aucuba japonica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Gardenia jasminoides, Weigela coraeensis, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hypericum monogynum, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Rosa chinensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Nerium oleander, Ficus carica, and Chaenomeles speciosa. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice chaff ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for cuttings of some southern flowering trees, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia 'Coccinea', Tradescantia zebrina, Epipremnum aureum, Pilea cadierei, Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Odontonema strictum, and Chrysanthemum morifolium 'Hanjui'. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old Pinus thunbergii seedlings as rootstock, bag and retain moisture to graft Pinus parviflora (including Pinus parviflora 'Osakazuki') and Pinus parviflora 'Jin Song'; use peony roots as rootstock to graft superior varieties of Paeonia suffruticosa; use 1-year-old Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, bag and retain moisture to graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' and Acer palmatum 'Dissectum'; use 1-year-old Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana, and Magnolia liliflora; use Hylocereus undatus as rootstock to graft various cactus ball types; use 1-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft Fortunella margarita.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be propagated by ground layering include: Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Weigela coraeensis, Hydrangea macrophylla, Weigela florida, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'August', Viburnum plicatum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Magnolia liliflora, Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum monogynum, Viburnum tinus, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Michelia figo, Spiraea thunbergii, and Spiraea japonica.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: Nandina domestica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia fortunei, Paeonia suffruticosa, Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora', Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea species, and Cycas revoluta. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Paeonia lactiflora, Hosta plantaginea, Cymbidium goeringii, Hosta ventricosa, Strelitzia reginae, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Ranunculus asiaticus, Rudbeckia laciniata, Iris species, Belamcanda chinensis, Convallaria majalis, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Bay', Oxalis triangularis, Philodendron 'Multi-Head Green Emperor', Nephrolepis cordifolia, and Aspidistra elatior. Flower species that can be propagated by bulb division include: Zantedeschia aethiopica, Hippeastrum rutilum, Freesia refracta, Lycoris radiata, Tulipa gesneriana, and Scilla peruviana.

Management of courtyard field-planted flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after Frost's Descent arrives and leaves fall, such as Hibiscus syriacus, Cercis chinensis, Amygdalus triloba, Punica granatum, Syringa oblata, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Magnolia liliflora, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Prunus persica 'Dulis', Rosa hybrida, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', and Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum'. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, Nandina domestica, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Gardenia jasminoides, Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, and Buxus bodinieri, when transplanting, first, pruning back before transplanting, second, carrying a good soil ball, and third, strengthening watering and spraying management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be field-planted include: Dianthus chinensis, Bellis perennis, Althaea rosea, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, Viola tricolor, Calendula officinalis, Verbena hybrida, Phlox drummondii, Antirrhinum majus, Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, and Reineckea carnea. Bulb flower species that can be field-planted include: Narcissus tazetta var. chinensis, Narcissus poeticus, Tulipa gesneriana, and Hyacinthus orientalis.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea', Euonymus japonicus 'Aureus', Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Viburnum tinus, Ligustrum lucidum, Photinia davidsoniae, and Ligustrum sinense. Ball-shaped plants needing pruning include: Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Buxus sinica, Myrica rubra, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Photinia serratifolia, Pittosporum tobira, and Pyracantha fortuneana. For continuously blooming field-planted flowering trees in the courtyard, such as Rosa chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Lantana camara, and Bougainvillea spectabilis, continue to cut off spent flowers and stems, and moderately prune back the branches that have bloomed. For field-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, and Gomphrena globosa, promptly cut off open inflorescences to promote continued flower production and blooming on lateral shoots, thereby extending the viewing period.

    3. Watering. For newly planted courtyard flowering trees of the year, continue to do a good job of watering and spraying, first, keep the root soil moist but without standing water; second, continue spraying water on the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of spraying water to retain moisture.

    4. Fertilizing. For field-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, top-dress with a quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium; for Osmanthus fragrans types that have already bloomed, open ring-shaped trenches and bury base fertilizer; for Rosa chinensis, Malus spectabilis, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus mutabilis, Camellia japonica, Michelia figo, Prunus mume, and Chimonanthus praecox that have already been pruned, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for Nandina domestica and Pyracantha fortuneana currently in the fruit-viewing state, as well as southern Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', and Diospyros cathayensis, appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which can effectively prolong the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on field-planted Prunus mume, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus serrulata, and Malus spectabilis, continue using poison sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them, and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species whose seeds can be collected include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus species, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia denudata, Manglietia fordiana, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia yunnanensis, Magnolia amoena, Michelia champaca, Michelia foveolata, Manglietia insignis, Michelia cavaleriei var. platypetala, Taxodium distichum, Rhapis excelsa, Ardisia crenata, Phoenix roebelenii, Livistona chinensis, Ilex kudingcha, Viburnum tinus, Cinnamomum camphora, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Viburnum macrocephalum, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Taxus chinensis, and Camellia oleifera; these seeds must all be stored in wet sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored include: Lagerstroemia indica, Liriodendron chinense, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum, Pseudolarix amabilis, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Cryptomeria japonica, Sapium sebiferum, Albizia julibrissin, Koelreuteria paniculata, Hibiscus mutabilis, Choerospondias axillaris, Cercis chinensis, Camptotheca acuminata, Bischofia polycarpa, and Acer truncatum. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: Salvia splendens, Celosia cristata, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, Callistephus chinensis, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Callistephus chinensis, Impatiens balsamina, Mirabilis jalapa, Kochia scoparia, Helichrysum bracteatum, Cosmos bipinnatus, Cerastium tomentosum, Euphorbia cyathophora, Mimosa pudica, and Codariocalyx motorius.

In addition, at the end of October, for Canna indica, Dahlia pinnata, and others, when their aboveground parts are nearly withered, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keep the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and wait until spring of next year to cut and plant them separately.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huaihe River, temperatures are still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and thorough. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as Ficus elastica, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, Epipremnum aureum, Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea fragrans, Cinnamomum kotoense, Philodendron 'Green Giant', and red gem, on sunny days it is suitable to water once a day, supplemented by spraying water on the leaves; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species such as Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Clivia miniata, Portulacaria afra, Daphne odora, Pelargonium hortorum, and Fuchsia hybrida, increase the amount of watering. For Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, and others that bloom in winter and early spring, watering should be controlled and spraying increased, to facilitate the enlargement of their flower buds. In northern regions, for flower species relatively sensitive to cold, reduce watering, which can accelerate the lignification of new shoots and help them overwinter safely. The best watering time is 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn coolness, promptly top-dress with low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pericallis hybrida, Primula malacoides, Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Cymbidium sinense, Rhododendron hybridum, and Narcissus poeticus that bloom in winter or early spring, continue top-dressing with a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately top-dress with some low-concentration potassium fertilizer, thereby increasing the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus limon, Fortunella margarita, Nandina domestica, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Ardisia crenata, and Diospyros cathayensis, in early to mid-October a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be top-dressed.

    3. Shading. For some foliage plant species that are very shade-loving, such as Dieffenbachia seguine, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron 'Green Emerald', Nephrolepis exaltata 'Bostoniensis', and Peperomia species, shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, first prune off dead branches and leaves, pest- and disease-damaged branches, and weak branches; for leggy branches, carry out strong pruning back; for binding materials that have been in place for 1 to 2 years, they can be removed, or removed and then re-bound, to prevent long-term binding at fixed positions from injuring the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species intolerant of temperatures below 10°C can be promptly moved into greenhouses; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or tree-stump bonsai, at the end of the month they can be buried and planted in wind-protected, sunny soil to prevent the pot soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin region, weather change information should be accurately grasped to avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowering trees, collect them uniformly, and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control pests such as aphids, chrysanthemum longhorn beetles, leaf miner larvae, and inchworms.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    In early to mid-October on the balcony, there is still strong sunlight and dry air. Only potted flowering trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have relatively strong resistance can adapt to the open-air balcony environment. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora 'Jin Song', Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Fraxinus chinensis, Carmona retusa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Buxus sinica, Punica granatum, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Ficus microcarpa var. crassifolia, Ginkgo biloba, Rosa chinensis, Jasminum sambac, Aglaia odorata, Cycas revoluta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, Tamarix chinensis, and Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'. Some cold-intolerant southern flowering tree species, when temperatures drop to 10°C, can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary indoor spaces at the beginning of the month. Such as Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Cattleya species, Phalaenopsis species, and Oncidium species. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and at other times can be placed on the balcony, such as Rhapis excelsa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Dracaena concinna, and Schefflera arboricola. In northern regions, when temperatures drop to 10°C, the vast majority of flowering trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, you can continue to use wide-mouthed large flower pots on the balcony as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of half rice chaff ash and half wet sand, or use vermiculite alone as the cutting substrate, cover with plastic film to retain moisture, and cutting-propagate a small number of ornamental plants, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Schefflera arboricola, Ficus elastica, Aucuba japonica, Michelia figo, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Aglaonema modestum, Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Bay', Epipremnum aureum, and Pelargonium hortorum.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as Cycas revoluta, Ficus microcarpa, Ficus elastica, Schefflera arboricola, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, and Jasminum sambac, water once a day, while supplementing with leaf spraying; for species that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, and Rhododendron hybridum, watering should not be excessive, and at the same time spray the branches and leaves, which can effectively promote the enlargement of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Aspidistra elatior, Cordyline fruticosa, Asplenium nidus, Anthurium andraeanum, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea species, and Epipremnum aureum, all should be mainly sprayed and supplemented by watering, so as to keep the pot soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, as well as Cymbidium hybridum, Bromeliaceae species, and Cymbidium sinense, apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for fruit-viewing plants such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Fortunella margarita, Fortunella hindsii, Citrus limon, Nandina domestica, Diospyros cathayensis, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, and Solanum pseudocapsicum, continue applying a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, and Jasminum sambac, in early October top-dress 1 to 2 times with dilute phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, to help them overwinter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the pot soil, and prevent the pot soil from compacting, continue to cover the surface of the pot soil with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc., especially shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, which should be given even more attention. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on clear days for 3 to 4 hours around noon, they can be moved indoors. Shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Platycladus orientalis (bonsai), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Ligustrum lucidum, and Fraxinus chinensis, necessary pruning and shaping are required. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been bound for more than a year, they can first be untied, and if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, they can be re-bound at a different binding position for bending and fixation, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plants. For ordinary potted flowering trees, such as Rosa chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Chaenomeles speciosa, and Malus halliana, appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree-stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunk, which can both protect the trunk xylem and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases next year.
Flower Planting Manual (November Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Beginning of Winter, the start of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow, and the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, while the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should pay attention to two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning field-planted flowering trees, whitewashing trunks and removing pests, turning the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively doing cold protection and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic sheds. This month's flower care management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, Begonia tuberhybrida, Cyclamen persicum, Gerbera jamesonii, Clivia miniata, Asparagus setaceus, and Hosta plantaginea.

    Flowering tree species that can be sown immediately after collection in November include: Spiraea cantoniensis, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina virginiana, Nageia nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sapindus mukorossi, Ardisia crenata, Trachycarpus fortunei, Viburnum tinus, Photinia serratifolia, and Photinia davidsoniae.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be done, but plastic film mulching must be added. Flowering tree species for heat preservation and cold protection mainly include: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume (referring to varieties such as green calyx and palace pink), Rosa chinensis (referring to easy-rooting varieties such as Rosa hybrida and 'Elizabeth'), and Chaenomeles speciosa.

    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Campsis grandiflora, Ulmus parvifolia, and Serissa japonica. Some of these root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flowering trees that can be densely cutting-propagated in greenhouses or plastic sheds in November include: Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Euonymus japonicus, Euonymus japonicus 'Albomarginatus', Pilea cadierei, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum kouytchense, Mahonia species, and Serissa japonica 'Aureomarginata'. If managed properly, they can grow a complete root system by spring of next year and can be used for field planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening forms. In winter in greenhouses, cuttings can also be propagated for Begonia 'Coccinea', Begonia masoniana, Begonia nelumbiifolia, Pelargonium hortorum, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia hybrida, Crassula ovata, Portulacaria afra, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Pachystachys lutea, and Justicia brandegeeana, which can be used for potting and cultivation after spring begins.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of Hibiscus mutabilis, Campsis grandiflora, Vitis vinifera, and others can also be cut and stored until spring of next year for cuttings, which can significantly speed up their rooting and improve the survival rate of cuttings.

    3. Grafting. Use Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, bag indoors and graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' and Acer palmatum 'Dissectum'; use apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cleft-graft Prunus mume (the graft union buried in soil to overwinter); use thick strong branches of Rosa chinensis (variety 'Elizabeth') as rootstock scion, and use branches of superior Rosa chinensis varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttings, so that the union heals and the lower cut roots simultaneously, which can speed up the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of superior Rosa chinensis varieties.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be propagated by ground layering in November mainly include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Gardenia jasminoides, Gardenia jasminoides var. radicans, Punica granatum, Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Weigela florida, Osmanthus fragrans, Hydrangea macrophylla, Magnolia liliflora, Juniperus chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Michelia figo, Spiraea cantoniensis, Viburnum plicatum, Viburnum macrocephalum, and Spiraea thunbergii.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Triarrhena sacchariflora, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum kouytchense, Mahonia species, Buddleja lindleyana, Paeonia suffruticosa, Caragana sinica, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum officinale, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bambusa multiplex f. fernleaf, and Bambusa multiplex.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of Dahlia pinnata, Canna indica, and Canna generalis can be dug up, stored in sand until March of next spring, and then cut, divided, planted, and established.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Bletilla striata, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Belamcanda chinensis, Iris species, ornamental Bromeliaceae, Liriope platyphylla, Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, Rohdea japonica, Aspidistra elatior, and Kalanchoe daigremontiana.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Callistephus chinensis, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, and Malva sylvestris.

    Flowering tree species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus taiwanensis, Pinus parviflora, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Plumosa', Chamaecyparis obtusa, Albizia julibrissin, Liquidambar formosana, Camptotheca acuminata, Eucommia ulmoides, Cornus alba, Sapium sebiferum, Wisteria sinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Caragana sinica, and Spiraea cantoniensis. Flowering tree species that can be sown immediately after collection or must be stored in wet sand include: Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Trachycarpus fortunei, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina virginiana, Sapindus mukorossi, Lycium chinense, Taxus chinensis, Magnolia grandiflora, Ilex chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Photinia serratifolia, Photinia davidsoniae, and Rosa chinensis (used for cultivating rootstock).

   2. Transplanting and establishing. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted for flowerbed establishment and flower border arrangement in November include: Silene armeria, Dianthus chinensis, Althaea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Viola tricolor var. hortensis, Antirrhinum majus, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, and Brassica oleracea var. acephala.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: Cinnamomum camphora, Magnolia grandiflora, Albizia julibrissin, Sapindus mukorossi, Ligustrum lucidum, Koelreuteria paniculata, Sapium sebiferum, Magnolia denudata, Osmanthus fragrans, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Aesculus species, Tilia species, Cercis gigantea, Liriodendron chinense, Magnolia soulangeana, Chaenomeles sinensis, and Malus spectabilis. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately pruned back or shortened, and most leaves removed, the trunk bound well with straw rope, and a large soil ball carried (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), so as to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be shortened and large branches trimmed, carrying a good soil ball and binding the trunk well. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk spraying management must be strengthened for survival. In addition, cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or bound with plastic film, to prevent massive water evaporation from the tree body.

    In November, Prunus mume bonsai, Chimonanthus praecox, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, and others can be transplanted and potted, placed in plastic sheds for flower forcing, to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted Hyacinthus orientalis, Tulipa gesneriana, Narcissus poeticus, and others should be moved into plastic sheds to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic sheds, or rooms, in November the amount of watering should be based on the specific standard of keeping the pot soil moist, and should not be too wet; if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, then appropriately increase the amount of watering and give necessary leaf spraying.

For those potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron species, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, and Pericallis hybrida, as well as fruit-viewing plants Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus limon, Pyracantha fortuneana, Nandina domestica, Solanum pseudocapsicum, and Ardisia crenata, not only should the pot soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be frequently sprayed with water, to facilitate the enlargement and growth of flower buds and to make the fruit appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic sheds, greenhouses, and rooms, not only should the pot soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be frequently sprayed with water, so that they always remain verdant and glossy. In relatively warm greenhouses and rooms, the amount of watering can be increased. For foliage plants that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, Dieffenbachia seguine, green emperor, Codiaeum variegatum, and silver queen, the amount of watering should be controlled, to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    In November, the best time for watering potted flowers is 10 to 11 a.m., and it is required that the water temperature and soil temperature be basically consistent, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants due to excessively low water temperature, thereby affecting their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors at temperatures above 15°C, species such as Rhododendron hybridum, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Daphne odora, Pericallis hybrida, Cyclamen persicum, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hyacinthus orientalis, Clivia miniata, Tulipa gesneriana, ornamental Bromeliaceae, Schlumbergera truncata, and Vriesea species, continue top-dressing with low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, using 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer solution, which can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary plastic sheds, stop top-dressing, to help them overwinter normally in dormancy. For most field-planted flowering trees, such as Malus species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia fordiana, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia figo, Michelia foveolata, Gardenia jasminoides, Aesculus species, Cinnamomum camphora, Spiraea species, Osmanthus fragrans, Vitis vinifera, Rosa chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Prunus serrulata, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Trachycarpus fortunei, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Paeonia suffruticosa, Forsythia viridissima, Paeonia lactiflora, and Hypericum monogynum, bury dry cake fertilizer, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant, less for small plants, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped forms that have not yet been pruned; after pruning is completed, apply base fertilizer.

For bonsai plant species mainly maintained by pruning, carry out all-around shaping and pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma congestum, Fraxinus chinensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Serissa japonica, Juniperus chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chimonanthus praecox, and Malus spectabilis, to build a good framework for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune field-planted or potted Rosa chinensis that have not yet been pruned; for each plant, except for retaining 3 to 5 robust 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base, and cut off all thin and weak branches; for unpruned field-planted Lagerstroemia indica, carry out strong pruning back of the current year's branches, except for retaining 20 cm to 30 cm from the base of a few thick branches, cut off all other current year's branches, to help produce more robust new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowering trees on flowerbeds, along roadsides, and in courtyards, such as Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus fragrans, Cinnamomum camphora, Platanus orientalis, Magnolia liliflora, Forsythia viridissima, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus serrulata, Camellia japonica, Albizia julibrissin, Pyracantha fortuneana, Pittosporum tobira, and Malus spectabilis, cut off all disorderly branches, weak branches, inner-canopy branches, and pest- and disease-damaged branches, and appropriately prune back leggy branches protruding from the crown. In addition, in November, coarse large palm trees can be peeled of their palm fiber, and the trunks cleaned well, so that they show their due ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flowering tree species, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron species, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nandina domestica, Araucaria heterophylla, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Phellodendron amurense, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus limon, Fortunella margarita, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera arboricola, Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Caryota mitis, Ficus elastica, Pachira aquatica, Phoenix canariensis, and Rhapis excelsa, they can be placed in plastic sheds, as long as the room temperature is maintained at not lower than about 5°C.

For cold-intolerant potted flower species, such as Calathea species, Dieffenbachia seguine, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Aglaia odorata, Codiaeum variegatum, Odontonema strictum, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', green emperor, silver queen, Plumeria rubra, Dracaena sanderiana, Phalaenopsis species, Cattleya species, and Cymbidium faberi, they should be placed indoors at a room temperature not lower than 10°C, or protected through winter using double-layer plastic sheds.

For those relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowering trees, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Malus species, Rhododendron simsii, Punica granatum, Ulmus parvifolia, Lagerstroemia indica, Buxus sinica, Sageretia thea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pinus parviflora, Juniperus chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Juniperus chinensis, Acer buergerianum, and Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', they can be directly buried together with the flower pot in wind-protected, sunny soil, and under conditions not lower than -10°C, freeze damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, plastic film and soft straw can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in cold frames, greenhouses or rooms in November, in addition to ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation should also be done well. Doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent plants from being stuffy indoors for a long time, which causes flower drop, fruit drop and leaf drop; in addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not intrude indoors, otherwise it is also easy to cause leaf drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, also note that plants must never be exposed directly to cold drafts.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees and shrubs prone to leaf diseases, such as grapes, crabapples, roses, Chinese roses, camellias, chrysanthemums, collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases the following year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk style and split-trunk style stump bonsai, apply lime sulfur mixture to the dead and split trunk parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep decay of the xylem of the stumps.

For whiteflies, scale insects, etc. appearing on potted flowering trees placed in greenhouses or cold frames (they may occur on bitter orange, Buddha's hand, sago palm, orchids, camellias, clivia, and Aspidistra), first wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second spray them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia, bitter orange, and Chinese roses), spray tobacco water for control.

For Belgian azaleas placed in cold frames, stop spraying foliar fertilizer of the Yemianbao type, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    In November, the main types of bonsai plants suitable for shaping include: Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, moss cypress, prostrate juniper, winged spindle tree, Japanese serissa, plum, wintersweet, Japanese snowbell, hornbeam, Chinese holly, wintergreen, boxleaf euonymus, pearl boxwood, Chinese elm, and Hall crabapple.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and suspended with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when relatively deep constriction marks are found on the trunks and branches, the old palm rope can be untied in November, and the trunks and branches can be tied and adjusted again.

For new tree stumps such as Chinese elm, Chinese loropetalum, bougainvillea, water willow, firethorn, and Elaeagnus, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting and branch breaking, plant them in sandy loam fields by the shallow-burial and high-mounding method, and shape them only after they sprout branches the following year.

For tree stumps that have basically taken shape after 1 to 2 years of care and shaping, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots and branches, select suitable pots and repot them, and pair them with fist-shaped stones and dotted moss, so they can be displayed indoors around the Spring Festival.

For well-shaped tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, Chinese juniper, and Hall crabapple, in November, select suitable pots and plant them, strengthen water management, and they can be used for display in squares, parks and auditoriums the following spring.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: this month most parts of our country enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south in our country, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions drop below zero one after another, with frequent white frosts. This month, flower and tree care should focus on three aspects: first, do a good job of heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowering trees placed in greenhouses, cold frames and rooms; second, do a good job of pruning and cleaning open-ground flowering trees and of turning and fertilizing the soil; third, do the preparatory work of composting organic fertilizer and mixing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, and African daisy; flowering trees that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as 'Elizabeth'), heavenly bamboo, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen species, firethorn, palm, privet, camphor tree, small-leaf privet, soapberry, photinia, and Photinia davidsoniae.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flowering trees that can be propagated by open-ground cuttings in December include: plum (mainly cultivars such as 'Gongfen' and 'Lüe'); Chinese rose (mainly easy-to-root cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda rose, and miniature rose); red-leaf plum, wintersweet (cutting with a heel), spiraea, and boxwood species. Among them, plum and red-leaf plum cuttings should use yellow subsoil, Chinese rose cuttings should use a mixed medium of rice-hull ash and fine sand at 2:1, and other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film to retain heat and moisture.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of hibiscus, geranium, epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, jade plant, Echeveria, portulacaria, mother of thousands, kalanchoe, gold-bearing flower, shrimp plant, wax begonia, bamboo-joint begonia, Rieger begonia, chloranthus, jasmine, clerodendrum, lantana, Schefflera, daphne, pothos, and Cordyline. Using cold-frame seedbeds, cuttings can also be taken of gardenia, golden-heart (golden-edge) boxwood, mahonia, Hypericum, forsythia, winter jasmine, Buddhist pine, Japanese cypress, Japanese serissa, firethorn, silver bud willow, and Triadenum. In addition, branches of Chinese trumpet creeper, lilac, and grape can be cut and stored in sand, to be cut in the following spring.

    3. Grafting. Excellent plum cultivars, such as 'Guhong' and 'Zhusha', can be grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, and peach sown that year; after digging up the rootstocks, use cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant them on the seedbed at a certain row spacing, burying soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion, taking care that water does not seep into the union, covering with plastic film to retain heat and moisture, and uncovering the plastic film in the following spring after the scions sprout. Use dug-up wild rose plants to bud-graft excellent cultivars of Chinese rose; or use strong branch segments of the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose scions on the upper end, then insert the grafted 'Elizabeth' scion segments into a loose seedbed. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil, taking care that water does not seep into the union, covering with plastic film to retain moisture and heat; in the following spring after the scions sprout, uncover the plastic film, and only after they have completely survived use a blade to cut open the binding tape at the union. In addition, red maple can be side-grafted indoors with bagging to retain moisture.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine, plum, camellia, osmanthus, Michelia figo, Hall crabapple, purple magnolia, snowball viburnum, weigela, gardenia, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, bridalwreath spirea, Chinese snowball, spiraea, and pomegranate.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: rain lily, dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, red wood sorrel, Aspidistra, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, large-leaf lilyturf, Ophiopogon, Rohdea japonica, mother of thousands, and Aglaonema. When cutting off the basal offsets from large colorful bromeliad plants for division, they must be small plants that have already grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise the colorful bands of the divided offsets are likely to disappear, which should be given special attention.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: heavenly bamboo, Hypericum, mahonia, Hall crabapple, Rhapis excelsa, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, Arabian jasmine, chloranthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, sisal, bamboo palm, and Pleioblastus fortunei.

    1. Collecting seeds. The herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally those of herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as salvia species, globe amaranth species, marigold, French marigold, cyclamen, and clivia. Clivia seeds are best sown immediately after collection.

    The main woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December include: Chinese rose, wisteria, privet, small-leaf privet, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen species, camphor tree, and photinia species. After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination; only after the seeds crack and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and raising seedlings the following year.

    2. Transplanting and field planting. Herbaceous flower species that can be field-planted in flowerbeds in December include: dianthus species, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, pot marigold, and daisy. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in cold frames, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, dianthus, and pansy, and can be used for street display in the following spring.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and field-planted, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, wintersweet, plum, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, red maple, ornamental peach, Chinese scholar tree, and weeping pagoda tree. For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, however, transplanting should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, osmanthus, palm, southern magnolia, camphor tree, azalea, and wintergreen. When transplanting, first heavily cut back the main shoot and large branches, and remove most of the leaves; at the same time, carry a large soil ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, and seal the cuts on the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them with film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, also frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowering trees that can be potted in December include: plum, wintersweet stumps, camellia, sasanqua, Hall crabapple, and Hall crabapple. Place them in cold frames for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, continue to place potted hyacinths, tulips, and red-cupped narcissus in frames for flower forcing, which can promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic cold frames with temperatures not lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering freezing damage, such as asparagus fern, asparagus, Aspidistra, Japanese fatsia, spotted aucuba, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, Rhapis excelsa, heavenly bamboo, Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, bamboo palm, Pleioblastus fortunei, and sago palm.

For ornamental plant species requiring overwintering temperatures not lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, rubber tree, jasmine, Michelia alba, chloranthus, dwarf coconut, calla lily, Philodendron, Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose, lantana, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, Areca palm, geranium, hibiscus, and Buddha belly bamboo, they can overwinter in double-layer plastic cold frames. For species requiring overwintering temperatures not lower than 10°C, such as croton, Caladium, Peperomia, Maranta, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, Brazil iron, money tree, Fittonia, bromeliads, pink cordyline, poinsettia, Cymbidium hybridum, clerodendrum, gold-bearing flower, Aglaia, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Dendrobium, South American cycad, red (green) gem, Oncidium, and Cymbidium hookerianum, in double-layer cold frames with good sealing performance, appropriate heating should also be provided; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, cover the top of the cold frame with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature warms up.

For relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum, crabapple species, azalea, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Chinese loropetalum, hornbeam, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, red cypress, water willow, Chinese holly, and Chinese fringe tree, when the temperature is not lower than -10°C they generally will not freeze; in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage or fruit ornamental plants are placed in cold frames, greenhouses, or in rooms, in addition to maintaining an appropriate indoor temperature for them, attention should also be paid to ventilation, and doors and windows can be opened around noon, the hottest time of the day, for ventilation, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, also be sure not to let cold drafts blow directly on the plants, to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, cold frames and rooms, keep the potting soil moist as the standard; if the temperature is on the low side and watering is excessive, it is very easy to cause root rot. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give appropriate foliar spraying.

For potted flowering plants that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, plum, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and European narcissus, and fruit ornamentals such as bitter orange, lemon, Buddha's hand, calamondin, golden bean, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, and heavenly bamboo, not only keep the potting soil moist, but also give foliar spraying, to favor the swelling of flower buds and also increase the vividness of flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, both keep the potting soil moist and give foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink cordyline, Syngonium, Maranta, croton, and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', when the room temperature is already close to the lower limit of the minimum temperature they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    The watering time in December is best set in the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by too-low water temperature.

For newly transplanted flowering trees outdoors, check frequently and give timely supplementary watering; for transplanted evergreen trees, give appropriate foliar spraying around noon, to prevent leaves from drying, shrinking and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants and bonsai placed in ordinary cold frames, stop fertilizing, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most field-planted greening trees and flowering trees, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Manglietia, Michelia species, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum, cherry, red-leaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, peony, tree peony, forsythia, Hypericum, grape, Chinese rose, spiraea, tulip tree, mock orange, deutzia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, heavenly bamboo, lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, banksia rose, Hypericum, weeping willow, Cryptomeria, cedar, cypress species, Sophora japonica var. pendula, flowering almond, dwarf flowering cherry, white fringe tree, photinia, redbud, and rose of Sharon, in December while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer edge of the root zone, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, and septic tank residue, to lay a material foundation for growth and flowering next year.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum, wintersweet, gold-bearing flower, shrimp plant, bromeliads, daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Hall crabapple, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, and freesia, continue to apply 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution, to promote bud formation and flowering of the plants.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls and ball-shaped topiary that were not pruned in November; hedges and green walls such as privet, small-leaf privet, Ligustrum japonicum, large-leaf boxwood, Sabina chinensis, four-season osmanthus, and Photinia davidsoniae; balls such as Chinese holly, bayberry, photinia, boxwood species, Pittosporum, forsythia, firethorn, dragon juniper, and Chinese juniper; while completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For field-planted flowering trees not yet pruned in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, palm, red-leaf plum, photinia, plane tree, plum, and wintersweet, carry out shaping and pruning, and after pruning is completed, bury and apply fertilizer around the root zone.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned rather than wired, such as Chinese elm, Chinese loropetalum, Chinese holly, Fujian tea, trident maple, hornbeam, Chinese fringe tree, firethorn, Japanese serissa, Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, crabapple, and papaya, continue pruning in December, to lay a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repot them together with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapple species, rose, Chinese rose, camellia, and crape myrtle, collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases next year. At the same time, spray lime sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on primrose, the former should be controlled promptly with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For types of flowering trees in greenhouses and cold frames that are prone to scale insects, such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, sago palm, camellia, and Aspidistra, first wipe them once with a cloth, then control them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flowering tree species on whose potted plants aphids often appear when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia, bitter orange, Chinese rose, and Fujian tea, tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-ground flowering trees such as Pittosporum, osmanthus, plane tree, camellia, small-leaf privet, firethorn, oleander, crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, cedar, photinia, crape myrtle, and wintersweet, various scale insects often appear, such as horned wax scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and felt scale; at this time, spraying with higher-concentration pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin rarely causes phytotoxicity.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of raising seedlings and mixing potting soil next year, use the idle winter time to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into water vats or water tanks, add water, and seal for soaking and fermentation.

Stack dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, and branches in layers with garden soil, set them on fire and burn them to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and raising seedlings next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken droppings and pigeon droppings, etc. with garden soil and compost them, sealing for fermentation, which can be used for topdressing seedlings and mixing potting soil the following year.

    7. Mixing potting soil. Using the idle winter time, find an empty lot or a spot under tree shade, and pile up as much potting soil as possible, to meet the needs of repotting and potting herbaceous flowers in the following spring. Generally, use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, and 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder, or rice-hull ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots and other debris, and after fully mixing them, cover with plastic film, or pile them indoors; after 3 to 4 months, they can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Plowing and freezing soil. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cuttings, and planting seedlings, plowing can be done in December; for garden plots for sowing and planting seedlings, apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, etc. before turning the soil; do not make beds for the time being, and after overwintering and freezing, in the early spring of the following year make furrows and beds, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Buddhist pine, Japanese cypress, Chinese juniper, Chinese weeping cypress, moss cypress, Chinese arborvitae, creeping juniper, true juniper, black pine, five-needle pine, red pine, water willow, Chinese holly, wintergreen, winged spindle tree, ginkgo, Japanese serissa, Caragana, Chinese elm, Chinese loropetalum, trident maple, wintersweet, tamarisk, Hall crabapple, Hall crabapple, papaya crabapple, boxleaf euonymus, pearl boxwood, wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese fringe tree, and hornbeam.

For bonsai plants that have been fixed and shaped with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixation has lasted for one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be untied, and metal wire or palm rope should be used again for tying and pulling.

For field-planted plum stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper, and crape myrtle that have already been shaped, after carrying out some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so that they can be used for display in public places or rooms the following year.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and tree-stump bonsai, management must be careful: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant root system; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating the artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent the plants planted on the rockery from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so that they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: this month is the month with the lowest temperature and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, right around the "third nine-day period", and most parts of our country enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north frequently moves south, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperature of the year appears. This month, the most important thing in flower care is to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, etc. in greenhouses, cold frames and rooms; the next is tree pruning, clearing dead branches and fallen leaves, and turning and preparing the land, preparing potting soil and other auxiliary work.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, and African daisy. Ornamental plant species that can be sown in open ground outdoors include: Chinese rose ('Elizabeth'), heavenly bamboo, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen, firethorn, palm, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry, privet, wisteria, Chinese tallow tree, and goldenrain tree.

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-ground or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: plum (cultivars such as 'Lüe' and 'Gongfen'), red-leaf plum, Chinese rose (cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda, and miniature), cherry, wintersweet (with heel), spiraea, boxwood species, pomegranate, silver bud willow, mahonia, Buddhist pine, Japanese serissa, Triadenum, Hypericum, forsythia, spiraea, winter jasmine, and jasmine. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: jasmine, chloranthus, geranium, fuchsia, African violet (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, carnation, umbrella plant, jade plant, jade leaf, jade tree, Echeveria, night-blooming cereus, epiphyllum, Pilea, mirror grass, shrimp plant, gold-bearing flower, mother of thousands, Rieger begonia, clerodendrum, Schefflera, rubber tree, daphne, Excoecaria, Aglaonema, pothos, and Cordyline. In addition, branches of lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, Weigela, deutzia, hydrangea, plane tree, and fig can be cut and stored in sand, to be cut in March.

    3. Grafting. For excellent plum cultivars, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach, and wild peach can be used as rootstocks for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, bury and plant them on the seedbed, and cover with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold. In Guangdong region, often between Minor Cold and Major Cold, bud-graft to propagate calamondin, kumquat, etc.; use dug-up wild rose to bud-graft excellent cultivars of Chinese rose, use the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar as the rootstock-scion, and cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars; grafting and cutting are carried out simultaneously, and plastic film is covered to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia, camellia, plum, weigela, gardenia, Hall crabapple, Buddhist pine, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, bridalwreath spirea, spiraea, pomegranate, and red maple.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, silver-edge lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, rain lily, Zephyranthes, hosta, purple hosta, purple-backed Rohdea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, spider plant species, Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema, mother of thousands, bromeliads, small tulip, shell ginger, Monstera deliciosa, and aloe. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: heavenly bamboo, Hypericum, mahonia, Hall crabapple, Rhapis excelsa, spiraea, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, Arabian jasmine, chloranthus, tiger thorn, gardenia, Triadenum, boxwood, and purple magnolia.

    6. Collecting seeds. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern or clivia seeds in the greenhouse, sow them immediately after collection; mature winter coral seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of heavenly bamboo, firethorn, wintergreen species, and Ardisia crenata can be picked, treated and stratified in sand for germination, and sown only after the seeds crack and show white.

    In January, frequently check the seeds stored in sand, including magnolia species, Michelia species, photinia species, wintergreen species, etc., to see whether the seeds have become moldy; if mold appears, the seeds must be poured out, rubbed and washed again, and replaced with clean fine sand for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, give timely supplementary spraying; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has emerged, they must be sown immediately, and covered with plastic film, straw, pine needles, etc. to retain heat and moisture.

II. Transplanting and Field Planting

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and field-planted in less cold regions include: dianthus species, ornamental kale, pot marigold, and daisy; in colder regions, after potting seedlings of dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy, and primrose, first place them in simple plastic cold frames, and after spring returns and the weather warms, use them for display in street flowerbeds, green spaces and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and field-planted, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple species, wintersweet, plum, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow tree, red-flowered spiraea, Triadenum, Chinese rose, Chinese scholar tree, and Sophora japonica var. pendula. Evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree and Ligustrum japonicum, this month, except in special circumstances, should generally be transplanted earlier in December or delayed to February; of course, in wind-sheltered places, with heavy cutback after transplanting and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during forestry afforestation land preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm, Chinese loropetalum, trident maple, azalea, crape myrtle, Japanese maple, wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus, and winged spindle tree; for evergreen tree stumps, such as heavenly bamboo, Mahonia fortunei, Chinese holly, and hornbeam, heavy cutback must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous tree stumps or evergreen tree stumps, the shallow-burial and high-mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains should be covered for freeze protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management; a slight negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the minimum temperature that various flower species can tolerate, create a special environment for them to overwinter safely, either in a greenhouse, in a cold frame, indoors, or buried in open ground. In simple plastic cold frames not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 0°C can be placed, such as asparagus fern, asparagus, Aspidistra, Japanese fatsia, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, Rhapis excelsa, heavenly bamboo, aucuba, Michelia figo, Cymbidium goeringii, Dendrobium, Ardisia crenata, daphne, sago palm, Acorus, bamboo palm, and Pleioblastus fortunei. In double-layer plastic cold frames not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine, chloranthus, Michelia alba, dwarf coconut, bottle-brush plant, calla lily, Philodendron, Monstera deliciosa, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, Areca palm, camellia, sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, night-blooming cereus, epiphyllum, large Buddha belly bamboo, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, and lantana. In double-layer plastic cold frames or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can tolerate low temperatures around 10°C can be placed, such as croton, Caladium, Syngonium, Maranta, bromeliads, Peperomia, coleus, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, Brazil iron, money tree, Fittonia, red (green) gem, giant taro, green emperor, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Aglaia, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, ZZ plant, South American cycad, desert rose, pink cordyline, poinsettia, gold-bearing flower, and coral flower; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be covered on top of the cold frame, and covering with straw curtains can stop only after the temperature warms up. On very cold days, strengthen inspection of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 o'clock in the morning; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise it is very easy to cause freezing damage to the plants. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum, crabapple species, azalea, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Chinese loropetalum, hornbeam, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, summer cypress, Chinese arborvitae, small bayberry, Chinese holly, wintergreen, and Chinese fringe tree, they can be buried in the soil together with the flower pots; when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, freezing damage generally will not occur; in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in cold frames, greenhouses, or homes, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, in addition to maintaining an appropriate air temperature for them, ventilation should also be done well, and doors and windows can be opened around noon when the temperature is highest in the day for ventilation, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold drafts blowing directly on the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and cold frames during each cold air southward movement; if broken glass, torn film, etc. are found, plug and repair them promptly, to prevent potted flowers from freezing. When supplying coal, gas, or oil heating to greenhouses, also check carefully, and do not let leaking gas or smoke enter the greenhouse or cold frame, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop caused by smoke damage, etc.

To force tree peonies to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 hours of additional light each day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, Hall crabapple, Hall crabapple, and winter jasmine can also be placed in cold frames at about 15°C for flower forcing, with appropriately increased light duration, which can meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, red-cupped narcissus, and freesia that were placed in greenhouses in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    For watering management of potted flowers in January, first and foremost, pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature broadly consistent with the soil temperature; if the difference between the two is too great, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and even cause leaf drop, root rot or death. The watering time is best arranged in the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, cold frames and rooms, keep the potting soil moist as appropriate; when the temperature is on the low side, reduce watering accordingly; when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give foliar spraying. For most foliage plants, both keep the potting soil moist and pay attention to foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink cordyline, Syngonium, Maranta, and croton, when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the minimum temperature the plant can tolerate, especially control the amount of watering. For potted flowers that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, poinsettia, cineraria, wintersweet, plum, primrose, hyacinth, kalanchoe, and pot marigold, and fruit ornamentals such as firethorn, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, golden bean, and winter coral, not only keep the potting soil moist, but also spray the plants, to favor the swelling of flower buds and also increase the vivid color of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in remote spots from lacking water; give timely supplementary watering to plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and give timely supplementary watering, especially for transplanted evergreen ornamental plants; around noon, give appropriate foliar spraying as well, to prevent leaves from shrinking and falling off due to overly dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most field-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapple species, white magnolia, southern magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia, Michelia species, maple species, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, linden, crape myrtle, Chinese trumpet creeper, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum, Buddhist pine, cherry, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, Schima superba, Machilus, purple tree, camptotheca, peony, forsythia, boxwood, grape, coral tree, Chinese rose, hydrangea, red-leaf plum, dwarf flowering cherry, flowering almond, tulip tree, deutzia, mock orange, banksia rose, Elaeocarpus, golden willow, weeping elm, Cryptomeria, Taiwan fir, cedar, Chinese scholar tree, Sophora japonica var. pendula, white fringe tree, rose of Sharon, lilac, crape myrtle, photinia, heavenly bamboo, black bamboo, pomegranate, and loquat, if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, and septic tank cleanings around the outer edge of the tree root zone, to lay a material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, gold-bearing flower, daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, red-cupped narcissus, Hall crabapple, hyacinth, tulip, colorful bromeliad, clivia, bird of paradise, and Christmas cactus, continue to apply low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution, to favor plant growth and bud formation and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants and bonsai placed in cold frames, because the plants are dormant in winter, stop fertilizing, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

For hedges, green walls and ball-shaped topiary not yet pruned in December, continue pruning; for flowering shrubs not yet pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, banksia rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor tree, plane tree, Chinese tallow tree, photinia, pomegranate, red-leaf plum, papaya, wintersweet, plum, palm, and grape, continue pruning; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer edge of the root zone, to meet the needs of spring growth.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned and secondarily wired, such as Chinese elm, Chinese loropetalum, bougainvillea, Fujian tea, hornbeam, Chinese fringe tree, water willow, Elaeagnus, firethorn, Japanese serissa, and Chinese juniper, continue, according to the original composition requirements and the development and change trends of the plant trunks and branches, to adjust and prune according to personal aesthetic taste, laying a foundation for spring growth and formation. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For the main trunks or large branches of crabapple species, plum species, flowering almond species, papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry, and red-leaf plum that have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles, etc., they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches burned.

Clean up the leaves under Chinese rose, rose, grape, crape myrtle, etc., gather them and burn them in a concentrated way, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases next year.

For horned wax scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and thread scale appearing on the trunks and branches of Pittosporum, plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, plum, wintersweet, and photinia, spray with high-concentration Supracide, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime sulfur mixture, etc., which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects in the current year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold easily appearing on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on plants such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, and kumquat in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches with a damp cloth, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in greenhouses, spray 50% iprodione (main component iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into water tanks or water vats for soaking and fermentation, so as to be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; stack withered grass, branches, fallen leaves, etc. in layers with garden soil, set them on fire and burn them to make homemade burned soil, which can be used as covering soil when sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond fertilizer, tobacco powder, chicken droppings and pigeon droppings, etc. with garden soil and compost them for fermentation, which can be used as fertilizer for mixing potting soil.

IX. Plowing and Freezing Soil

For nursery land not yet plowed in December, seize the time to plow in early January; while plowing the garden plot, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, and farmyard manure, etc.; after overwintering and freezing, in early spring make furrows and beds, for use in sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is particularly cold, plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good toughness, and easy shaping operations, such as Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, ginkgo, boxleaf euonymus, moss cypress, Chinese juniper, Japanese serissa, creeping juniper, true juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water willow, Caragana, wintersweet, winged spindle tree, banyan, and wisteria. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in simple plastic cold frames, and moved outdoors only after spring returns and the weather warms, which favors the healing of parts that may have been damaged during shaping.

For plants shaped 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire, etc., if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, the original binding material should be untied, and tying and pulling should be done again.

    In January, for some shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai, management must be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried in indoor sand beds; for tree-stump bonsai, prevent the potting soil from freezing, which damages the plant's fibrous roots and can cause the artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate; also prevent the plants planted on the small stones from dying after freezing. They should be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.