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What to do when Norfolk Island pine leaves turn yellow? Shade, proper water and fertilizer, and repot with fresh soil and pest control

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Norfolk Island pine, an evergreen plant, is often made into bonsai and placed indoors, and has the effect of purifying the air and beautifying the home. But during cultivation, for certain reasons, Norfolk Island pine leaves often turn yellow, giving flower lovers endless headaches. So what should be done when Norfolk Island pine leaves turn yellow

Norfolk Island pine, an evergreen plant, is often made into bonsai and placed indoors, and has the effect of purifying the air and beautifying the home. But during cultivation, for certain reasons, Norfolk Island pine leaves often turn yellow, giving flower lovers endless headaches. So what should be done when Norfolk Island pine leaves turn yellow? Today the editor will solve this problem for everyone.

I. What to do when Norfolk Island pine leaves turn yellow

There are mainly six reasons for Norfolk Island pine leaves turning yellow: if it is a newly potted plant, it may not have adapted yet, and careful care is all that is needed; if it is caused by too much light, move it to a semi-shaded spot to recover; for water and fertilizer problems, reasonable watering and fertilizing are needed; when the soil is alkaline, replace the potting soil; if it is pests, spray pesticide to solve it. Specifically, let us continue reading below.

II. Reasons for Norfolk Island pine leaves turning yellow and solutions

1. Sudden environmental change

Regarding the reasons for Norfolk Island pine leaves turning yellow, if it is a newly potted plant, it may be caused by not adapting to the environment. Nowadays, many of the potted plants of flower lovers are bought online, which may lead to a large regional difference, and because of the big change in growing environment, the Norfolk Island pine may not adapt for a while and its leaves turn yellow.

Solution: If it is a newly bought Norfolk Island pine potted plant, yellow leaves are actually a very normal thing, and everyone only needs to care for it according to the cultivation methods of Norfolk Island pine, and after a period of time the plant will recover.

2. Too much light

Norfolk Island pine likes light, and needs sufficient light during growth, but it dislikes strong light. Once it is exposed to the blazing sun, especially when the summer sunlight is very harsh, the leaves easily turn yellow.

Solution: Move the Norfolk Island pine indoors to a semi-shaded spot in time, avoid direct strong light, then spray an appropriate amount of water, and after the plant recovers, it will soon become healthy again.

3. Improper watering

Too little watering: Norfolk Island pine likes a humid environment. If it is not watered for a long time, or is never watered thoroughly, then over time the leaves will turn yellow due to lack of water. Solution: Water a small amount in time, and spray water on the leaves so that the leaves can replenish water as soon as possible.

Too much watering: Norfolk Island pine dislikes waterlogging. Once watering is excessive and causes water to accumulate in the pot, the roots of the Norfolk Island pine will rot due to insufficient oxygen and poor air permeability, thus causing the leaves to turn yellow. Solution: Dry the potting soil in time, or directly replace the potting soil.

4. Improper fertilizing

Too little fertilizing: During growth, Norfolk Island pine needs sufficient nutrients. Once too little fertilizer is applied, so that nutrients are not supplied enough, the branches will become relatively thin, long and weak, and the leaf color will also turn yellow. Solution: Supplement nutrients in time. During vigorous growth, everyone should fertilize the Norfolk Island pine once every 2 weeks.

Too much fertilizing: During care, although Norfolk Island pine needs sufficient nutrients, if too much fertilizer is applied, or the concentration is too high, the roots cannot absorb it, causing the Norfolk Island pine leaves to turn yellow. Solution: Irrigate the Norfolk Island pine so that after the fertilizer is diluted it flows out from the bottom of the pot; in severe cases, replace the potting soil.

5. Alkaline soil

Norfolk Island pine likes slightly acidic soil, and it is not suitable for living in soil with too high an alkali content. If the soil is alkaline, it easily causes Norfolk Island pine leaves to turn yellow.

Solution: Do not think too much, just directly replace its potting soil, and replace it with fertile, well-drained slightly acidic soil.

6. Pests

When the temperature is high and the room is not ventilated, even the Norfolk Island pine, which is not easily attacked by insects, will be harmed by insects, thus causing the leaves to turn yellow. At this time, everyone must discover the pests in time, and prevent and control them as soon as possible through manual pest removal and pesticide pest removal.

Overall, Norfolk Island pine is still very easy to grow, but if you want its leaves to stay green and not turn yellow, you must pay attention to light, water and fertilizer. Of course, do not panic when you find yellow leaves; just solve it according to the methods above. The editor has introduced this much about Norfolk Island pine leaves turning yellow, hoping to bring help to everyone.

Introduction and Cultivation of Potted Plants (Part One)

        I. Peace lily 
        Peace lily is commonly known as peace lily white palm, belonging to the Araceae family and the Spathiphyllum genus.
Origin and habits: Peace lily is a perennial shade-loving herbaceous plant. It is mainly distributed in Colombia, and is one of the most popular indoor foliage plants in Europe and America. Peace lily likes shaded, cool, humid environments and fertile soil, and dislikes drought, high temperature and direct sunlight. It can grow all year round in tropical and subtropical regions.
Morphological characteristics: Peace lily can reach 95 cm in height, with broad elliptical leaves, entire margins, and leathery texture; the leaf mesophyll is relatively thick; the leaf color is dark green; slightly covered with white powder, and the petiole can reach 43 cm. The flower is a spathe inflorescence, in the shape of a long spoon, and the flower color changes from white to green within 25 days. The inflorescence length can reach 1 m, and the spadix length is also around 15 cm. The flowering period is late spring and early summer.
Propagation techniques: Peace lily can be propagated by division and tissue culture. Before the growing point is broken, tiller buds will not sprout until it grows to full maturity. If the growing point is artificially damaged, each plant can produce 3-5 tiller buds. Although the seedlings are robust, their form is not as beautiful as tissue-cultured seedlings. Home self-propagation can adopt this method.
Management techniques: When cultivating peace lily, during the test-tube seedling stage it should be watered thoroughly, maintaining air humidity above 80%. After the seedlings are established, water thoroughly once every 1-2 days, and increase leaf surface spraying in summer, which has multiple effects such as washing off dust, lowering temperature, preventing sunscald, and increasing air humidity. To make the plant grow upright and symmetrical, the placement angle should be adjusted every six months. The key to whether peace lily grows well is whether the base fertilizer is sufficient. In addition, depending on the growth condition, water fertilizer or inorganic nitrogen fertilizer can be applied monthly or irregularly to promote leaf growth, deepen leaf color, and maintain the best ornamental state.
Peace lily has strong resistance to pests and diseases. When ventilation is poor, aphids and green stink bugs can occasionally be seen harming the young leaves. Strengthening ventilation can prevent this, and for potted plants the leaves should be kept just touching. Once pests are found, they can be wiped off manually or killed with insecticide.
Ornamental value: The peace lily plant is imposing and majestic, with extraordinary bearing, and the gradually changing flower color can bring people infinite reverie. It is an ideal potted flower for decorating large halls such as hotels, and it is also very impressive when placed in a larger family living room. 

        II. Bottle palm 
        Bottle palm is an evergreen small tree of the Agavaceae family and the Beaucarnea genus.
Origin and habits: Bottle palm is native to Mexico. It likes sufficient sunlight, relatively likes fertilizer, likes sandy loam, is tolerant of dryness, and has strong cold resistance. In Hainan and along southern China it can overwinter outdoors, while other regions should adopt varying degrees of insulation measures.
Morphological characteristics: Wild bottle palm can reach 2-3 m; potted plants can reach 1 m in height, with a peculiar stem shape, and the base of the trunk is especially swollen, shaped like a bottle. The swollen part has bark with a thick cork layer, and is cracked into small squares. The leaves are slender, linear, thinly leathery, and drooping; the leaf margins have fine serrations; they can reach 1.5-2 m in length.
Propagation and cultivation: Bottle palm is mostly propagated by sowing. From April to November, during the growth period of bottle palm, it is forbidden to move the flower pot and its orientation, ensuring it occupies a fixed territory. At this time, sufficient water and nutrients can be given to promote stem swelling. According to the dryness and wetness of the potting soil and the depth of leaf color, water and fertilize timely and appropriately, neither waterlogging nor water loss; from January to March, water should be strictly controlled, watering only once a month with thorough water at the same temperature as the room. When fertilizing, raw fertilizer and concentrated fertilizer must not be applied. In addition, dimethoate or decamethrin can be sprayed once a month, and chlorothalonil can be sprayed 1-2 times a year, which can greatly improve the cold resistance of bottle palm.
Ornamental value: The bottle palm stem is upright and plump, and the linear leaves are bright and smooth, with a peculiar appearance. It is a rare ornamental flower. 

        III. Areca palm 
        Areca palm is an evergreen shrub of the Arecaceae family.
Origin and habits: Native to Madagascar, it is mostly potted in various parts of China. Areca palm likes a warm and humid environment, likes light and is also relatively shade-tolerant. Height growth is slow while crown width develops relatively quickly, and natural pruning is good. It requires slightly acidic, well-aerated sandy loam, and dislikes alkaline soil.
Morphological characteristics: Plant height 3-4 m. The stem branches from the ground and has ring patterns; the leaves spread in an arch shape and can reach 2 m in length, the petiole is smooth and yellow, the pinnae are lanceolate, 60 cm long, with soft tips, and 3 raised main veins on the back; the flowers are small, in strings, golden yellow, and the flowering period is March to April.
Propagation techniques: Areca palm can be propagated by sowing and division. Generally, potted plants mostly use division propagation. Division propagation can be done all year round, but autumn is best. From a robust mother plant, select well-developed stems, cut them off from the mother plant at the roots, and move them into a new pot for replanting. Newly planted plants, because the root system has not yet developed well, should avoid long exposure to strong light. Water appropriately, spray water on the leaf surface several times a day, and keep the leaves moist. Keep the temperature at around 20-25°C, and normal growth can occur in about 20 days.
Management techniques: Indoor potted areca palm should choose slightly acidic soil, and in the north attention should be paid to choosing sandy loam with high humus content. Watering should follow the principle of “dry thoroughly, wet thoroughly” according to the season; water more appropriately in dry and hot seasons, and control watering in low-temperature rainy weather. In northern regions, especially where the water contains more salt and alkali, attention should be paid to regularly using black alum to adjust soil acidity. Liquid fertilizer can be applied all year round, with appropriate additional application of nitrogen-containing organic fertilizer in summer, and organic flower fertilizer such as sesame paste residue in winter. Rotate the flower pot regularly, often prune the lower and inner dead leaves, and pay attention to trimming the crown shape. In winter, the indoor temperature must be kept above 10°C.
Ornamental value: The areca palm plant is tall, with drooping green leaves. When potted in the north and arranged in halls and rooms, it is especially majestic. 

        IV. Rubber plant 
        Rubber plant, also known as Indian rubber tree, is an evergreen shrub or tree of the Moraceae family and the Ficus genus.
Origin and habits: Native to India and Malaysia, it is relatively widely distributed in China, with about 120 species. Rubber plant likes warm and humid environments, and grows luxuriantly in a greenhouse at 30°C in summer. The minimum winter temperature is generally above 10°C. It likes environments with sufficient light and good ventilation, and requires fertile soil.
Morphological characteristics: Rubber plant is an evergreen large tree, height can reach more than 30 m, the whole plant is smooth, there is latex in the cortex, and aerial roots grow on the stem. Leaves are oblong to elliptical, 10-30 cm long, dark green on the surface, pale yellow-green on the back, entire, leathery, with red stipules; flowers are solitary, monoecious. Round-leaf rubber plant is an evergreen small shrub, 50-80 cm high, with many branches. Leaves are broadly obovate, broadly rounded at the tip, narrow at the base, 1.5-5 cm long, leathery, dark green on the surface, with dark glands in the vein axils; syconium is spherical to pear-shaped, about 6-8°C mm in diameter, solitary, yellow or tinged with red when mature.
Propagation techniques: Rubber plant propagation is mainly by cuttings. The cutting method uses stem cuttings or bud-leaf cuttings, roots very easily, and can be done indoors all year round. For summer cuttings, when the temperature is kept at 18-25°C, roots can form in 2-3 weeks. In summer, seedlings can also be raised outdoors in the field.
Management techniques: The culture soil for rubber plant uses loam mixed with leaf mold and applied with decomposed farmyard manure. Because of its rapid growth, water and fertilizer should be sufficient during cultivation. In addition to base fertilizer, at least 1 application of thin fertilizer water should be given monthly, and sufficient light should be provided in summer. Potted plants are generally repotted once every 2-3 years according to growth condition. Secondly, because rubber plant leaves are large and luxuriant, with strong respiration and transpiration, the leaf surface should often be sprayed with clean water, and it can also be wiped with beer, which can play a fertilizing role and make the leaves oily green and shiny.
Ornamental value: Rubber plant is a common garden tree or potted foliage plant. Its leaves are green all year round and quite beautiful. In southern China it is often used for garden greening and beautification; in northern regions it is mostly potted indoors, used to decorate hotels and conference rooms and beautify studies and living rooms, and it is deeply loved by people whether for foliage or plant form. 

        V. Norfolk Island pine 
        Norfolk Island pine, also known as heterophyllous Norfolk Island pine, belongs to the Araucariaceae family and the Araucaria genus.
Origin and habits: Norfolk Island pine is native to Norfolk Island in Oceania and northeastern Australia. In places such as Guangdong, Hainan and Fujian in China it is cultivated as a landscape tree, and north of the Yangtze River basin potted plants are commonly seen for ornamental purposes. Norfolk Island pine is shade-tolerant, not cold-tolerant, and not drought-tolerant. It likes a warm and humid climate and has relatively strong resistance to pests, diseases and pollution. The suitable growth temperature is 10-25°C, and the minimum winter temperature should be kept above 5°C.
Morphological characteristics: Norfolk Island pine is an evergreen tree with a spire-shaped crown. The branches are regularly horizontal, the branchlets extend horizontally or droop, and fall off alternately in winter; the leaves on young foliage or branchlets are soft and sickle-shaped, about 1.5 cm long, while the leaves on large trees and old branches are ovate or triangular-ovate, about 0.6 hundred meters long. Potted plants are generally 1-2 m tall.
Propagation techniques: Norfolk Island pine can be propagated by sowing or cuttings. Norfolk Island pine planted in the north rarely sets seed, so cutting propagation is often used. In spring, collect upright new shoots or leggy branches growing from lateral buds as cuttings (if lateral branches or weak branches are used as cuttings, the crown shape of the cultivated plant will be irregular and lose ornamental value). The cuttings are 7 cm long, and when inserted into a greenhouse sand bed at 13-16°C and 60-80% relative air humidity, they can root. Alternatively, cut off the top of a young tree, wait for the upright new shoots to grow from the top lateral buds, and then cut the branches in spring for cuttings.
Sowing propagation: Before sowing, it is best to break or wound the seed coat first to promote germination. Seed-sown seedlings have a long taproot and few fibrous roots, and are prone to dying when transplanted. Grasping technical points such as protecting the roots, planting carefully, keeping warm, and shading can improve seedling survival rate. For seedlings with broken roots, they can be washed with clean water and inserted into plain sand, and at suitable temperature they can re-root from the cut surface in 1-2 weeks. For seedlings with broken buds and broken stems but with leaves, they can be planted as usual, and after surviving they will sprout new buds after a certain period.
Management techniques: Norfolk Island pine likes light and needs full light, but dislikes strong light. In summer, place it outdoors in tree shade or a semi-shaded spot. If placed in a cold, dark place for a long time, the plant will grow thin and tall. In September it should be moved into a frost-free, well-lit cool room. The temperature should change gradually, and after October the ideal temperature is 5-10°C. During the growing season, water the plant regularly, and in winter keep the soil moist. If the potting soil is too dry in summer, the water amount is too large in winter, or the relative air humidity is below 60%, the lower leaves will become soft and drooping. In winter, too dark light or too high temperature will cause needle leaves to fall off or turn yellow. During the growing season, apply a calcium-free fertilizer once every two weeks. Generally repot once every 2-3 years in spring to prevent the plant from growing too tall. The potting soil is best mixed with three parts loam, one part leaf mold, one part coarse sand and a small amount of plant ash. The depth of the soil layer should be controlled so that the buds rooting in the upper layer are just exposed on the soil surface.
Ornamental value: Norfolk Island pine has a beautiful tree shape and grows quickly. It is used for row planting or solitary planting in courtyards, and young trees are precious foliage plants. In addition, Norfolk Island pine has excellent wood quality and is an important timber tree species in Australia and South Africa. 

        VI. Boston fern 
        Boston fern is a terrestrial fern foliage plant of the Nephrolepidaceae family and the Nephrolepis genus.
Origin and habits: Boston fern is produced in tropical or subtropical regions. It likes shade and humidity, has no strict temperature requirements, has relatively strong cold resistance, and dislikes direct sunlight. The cultivation soil should be loose and well aerated.
Morphological characteristics: Boston fern is a mutant species of the Nephrolepis genus. It has once-pinnate compound leaves, and its pinnae are broader and more drooping than the original species. The pinnae are 90-100 cm long, lanceolate, and yellow-green. The leaflets are flat, the leaf margins are wavy, and the leaf tips are twisted.
Propagation techniques: Boston fern does not produce spore leaves and can only be propagated by division or runners. Division can be carried out all year round, with spring and autumn being better. After division, water thoroughly and place in a shaded spot, and it can quickly resume growth.
Management techniques: For outdoor cultivation of Boston fern, about half (by volume) of expanded plastic artificial soil can be mixed into ordinary culture soil and stirred evenly. Indoor potted plants can completely use lightweight, clean and hygienic pure expanded plastic artificial soil. Boston fern is suitable for cultivation in a shade shed, with a layer of shade curtain covering the shed. Covering it with another layer of colorless film is even better, as it prevents rain and avoids direct sunlight. During the growing period, water once a day, preferably by drip irrigation, so as to avoid water droplets on the leaves causing yellowing and rot. In hot summer, water can also be sprayed around the potted flowers to increase humidity. In winter, water should be properly controlled, keeping it moist is enough. During the growing period, nitrogen fertilizer must be applied. For outdoor cultivation, thin organic fertilizer water can be applied 2 times a month, and the leaves must not be contaminated; for indoor cultivation, a nitrogen-based nutrient solution can be supplemented once every 2 months or so. To ensure a beautiful plant shape and promote air circulation, dead and yellow old leaves should be pruned together with shaping.
Ornamental value: Boston fern has bright green leaves and an elegant plant shape. As a potted plant for indoor display or as wall-mounted or mosaic plant decorative material, it has a distinctive character.

Introduction to the Cultivation of 24 Common Potted Plants

I. Bottle palm

Bottle palm is an evergreen small tree of the Agavaceae family and the Beaucarnea genus.
Origin and habits: Bottle palm is native to Mexico. It likes sufficient sunlight, relatively likes fertilizer, likes sandy loam, is tolerant of dryness, and has strong cold resistance. In Hainan and along southern China it can overwinter outdoors, while other regions should adopt varying degrees of insulation measures.
Morphological characteristics: Wild bottle palm can reach 2-3 m; potted plants can reach 1 m in height, with a peculiar stem shape, and the base of the trunk is especially swollen, shaped like a bottle. The swollen part has bark with a thick cork layer, and is cracked into small squares. The leaves are slender, linear, thinly leathery, and drooping; the leaf margins have fine serrations; they can reach 1.5-2 m in length.
Cultivation and care: Bottle palm is mostly propagated by sowing. From April to November, during the growth period of bottle palm, it is forbidden to move the flower pot and its orientation, ensuring it occupies a fixed territory. At this time, sufficient water and nutrients can be given to promote stem swelling. According to the dryness and wetness of the potting soil and the depth of leaf color, water and fertilize timely and appropriately, neither waterlogging nor water loss; from January to March, water should be strictly controlled, watering only once a month with thorough water at the same temperature as the room. When fertilizing, raw fertilizer and concentrated fertilizer must not be applied. In addition, dimethoate or decamethrin can be sprayed once a month, and chlorothalonil can be sprayed 1-2 times a year, which can greatly improve the cold resistance of bottle palm.
Ornamental value: The bottle palm stem is upright and plump, and the linear leaves are bright and smooth, with a peculiar appearance. It is a rare ornamental flower.

II. Peace lily

Peace lily is commonly known as peace lily white palm, belonging to the Araceae family and the Spathiphyllum genus.
Origin and habits: Peace lily is a perennial shade-loving herbaceous plant. It is mainly distributed in Colombia, and is one of the most popular indoor foliage plants in Europe and America. Peace lily likes shaded, cool, humid environments and fertile soil, and dislikes drought, high temperature and direct sunlight. It can grow all year round in tropical and subtropical regions.
Morphological characteristics: Peace lily can reach 95 cm in height, with broad elliptical leaves, entire margins, and leathery texture; the leaf mesophyll is relatively thick; the leaf color is dark green; slightly covered with white powder, and the petiole can reach 43 cm. The flower is a spathe inflorescence, in the shape of a long spoon, and the flower color changes from white to green within 25 days. The inflorescence length can reach 1 m, and the spadix length is also around 15 cm. The flowering period is late spring and early summer.
Cultivation techniques: Peace lily can be cultivated by division and tissue culture. Before the growing point is broken, tiller buds will not sprout until it grows to full maturity. If the growing point is artificially damaged, each plant can produce 3-5 tiller buds. Although the seedlings are robust, their form is not as beautiful as tissue-cultured seedlings. Home self-propagation can adopt this method.
Management techniques: When cultivating peace lily, during the test-tube seedling stage it should be watered thoroughly, maintaining air humidity above 80%. After the seedlings are established, water thoroughly once every 1-2 days, and increase leaf surface spraying in summer, which has multiple effects such as washing off dust, lowering temperature, preventing sunscald, and increasing air humidity. To make the plant grow upright and symmetrical, the placement angle should be adjusted every six months. The key to whether peace lily grows well is whether the base fertilizer is sufficient. In addition, depending on the growth condition, water fertilizer or inorganic nitrogen fertilizer can be applied monthly or irregularly to promote leaf growth, deepen leaf color, and maintain the best ornamental state.
Peace lily has strong resistance to pests and diseases. When ventilation is poor, aphids and green stink bugs can occasionally be seen harming the young leaves. Strengthening ventilation can prevent this, and for potted plants the leaves should be kept just touching. Once pests are found, they can be wiped off manually or killed with insecticide.
Ornamental value: The peace lily plant is imposing and majestic, with extraordinary bearing, and the gradually changing flower color can bring people infinite reverie. It is an ideal potted flower for decorating large halls such as hotels, and it is also very impressive when placed in a larger family living room.

III. Areca palm

Areca palm is an evergreen shrub of the Arecaceae family.
Origin and habits: Native to Madagascar, it is mostly potted in various parts of China. Areca palm likes a warm and humid environment, likes light and is also relatively shade-tolerant. Height growth is slow while crown width develops relatively quickly, and natural pruning is good. It requires slightly acidic, well-aerated sandy loam, and dislikes alkaline soil.
Morphological characteristics: Plant height 3-4 m. The stem branches from the ground and has ring patterns; the leaves spread in an arch shape and can reach 2 m in length, the petiole is smooth and yellow, the pinnae are lanceolate, 60 cm long, with soft tips, and 3 raised main veins on the back; the flowers are small, in strings, golden yellow, and the flowering period is March to April.
Cultivation techniques: Areca palm can be cultivated by sowing and division. Generally, potted plants mostly use division cultivation. Division cultivation can be done all year round, but autumn is best. From a robust mother plant, select well-developed stems, cut them off from the mother plant at the roots, and move them into a new pot for replanting. Newly planted plants, because the root system has not yet developed well, should avoid long exposure to strong light. Water appropriately, spray water on the leaf surface several times a day, and keep the leaves moist. Keep the temperature at around 20-25°C, and normal growth can occur in about 20 days.
Management techniques: Indoor potted areca palm should choose slightly acidic soil, and in the north attention should be paid to choosing sandy loam with high humus content. Watering should follow the principle of "dry thoroughly, wet thoroughly" according to the season; water more appropriately in dry and hot seasons, and control watering in low-temperature rainy weather. In northern regions, especially where the water contains more salt and alkali, attention should be paid to regularly using black alum to adjust soil acidity. Liquid fertilizer can be applied all year round, with appropriate additional application of nitrogen-containing organic fertilizer in summer, and organic flower fertilizer such as sesame paste residue in winter. Rotate the flower pot regularly, often prune the lower and inner dead leaves, and pay attention to trimming the crown shape. In winter, the indoor temperature must be kept above 10°C.
Ornamental value: The areca palm plant is tall, with drooping green leaves. When potted in the north and arranged in halls and rooms, it is especially majestic.

IV. Rubber plant

Rubber plant, also known as Indian rubber tree, is an evergreen shrub or tree of the Moraceae family and the Ficus genus.
Origin and habits: Native to India and Malaysia, it is relatively widely distributed in China, with about 120 species. Rubber plant likes warm and humid environments, and grows luxuriantly in a greenhouse at 30°C in summer. The minimum winter temperature is generally above 10°C. It likes environments with sufficient light and good ventilation, and requires fertile soil.
Morphological characteristics: Rubber plant is an evergreen large tree, height can reach more than 30 m, the whole plant is smooth, there is latex in the cortex, and aerial roots grow on the stem. Leaves are oblong to elliptical, 10-30 cm long, dark green on the surface, pale yellow-green on the back, entire, leathery, with red stipules; flowers are solitary, monoecious. Round-leaf rubber plant is an evergreen small shrub, 50-80 cm high, with many branches. Leaves are broadly obovate, broadly rounded at the tip, narrow at the base, 1.5-5 cm long, leathery, dark green on the surface, with dark glands in the vein axils; syconium is spherical to pear-shaped, about 6-8°C mm in diameter, solitary, yellow or tinged with red when mature.
Cultivation techniques: Rubber plant cultivation is mainly by cuttings. The cutting method uses stem cuttings or bud-leaf cuttings, roots very easily, and can be done indoors all year round. For summer cuttings, when the temperature is kept at 18-25°C, roots can form in 2-3 weeks. In summer, seedlings can also be raised outdoors in the field.
Management techniques: The culture soil for rubber plant uses loam mixed with leaf mold and applied with decomposed farmyard manure. Because of its rapid growth, water and fertilizer should be sufficient during cultivation. In addition to base fertilizer, at least 1 application of thin fertilizer water should be given monthly, and sufficient light should be provided in summer. Potted plants are generally repotted once every 2-3 years according to growth condition. Secondly, because rubber plant leaves are large and luxuriant, with strong respiration and transpiration, the leaf surface should often be sprayed with clean water, and it can also be wiped with beer, which can play a fertilizing role and make the leaves oily green and shiny.
Ornamental value: Rubber plant is a common garden tree or potted foliage plant. Its leaves are green all year round and quite beautiful. In southern China it is often used for garden greening and beautification; in northern regions it is mostly potted indoors, used to decorate hotels and conference rooms and beautify studies and living rooms, and it is deeply loved by people whether for foliage or plant form.

V. Norfolk Island pine

Norfolk Island pine, also known as heterophyllous Norfolk Island pine, belongs to the Araucariaceae family and the Araucaria genus.
Origin and habits: Norfolk Island pine is native to Norfolk Island in Oceania and northeastern Australia. In places such as Guangdong, Hainan and Fujian in China it is cultivated as a landscape tree, and north of the Yangtze River basin potted plants are commonly seen for ornamental purposes. Norfolk Island pine is shade-tolerant, not cold-tolerant, and not drought-tolerant. It likes a warm and humid climate and has relatively strong resistance to pests, diseases and pollution. The suitable growth temperature is 10-25°C, and the minimum winter temperature should be kept above 5°C.
Morphological characteristics: Norfolk Island pine is an evergreen tree with a spire-shaped crown. The branches are regularly horizontal, the branchlets extend horizontally or droop, and fall off alternately in winter; the leaves on young foliage or branchlets are soft and sickle-shaped, about 1.5 cm long, while the leaves on large trees and old branches are ovate or triangular-ovate, about 0.6 hundred meters long. Potted plants are generally 1-2 m tall.
Cultivation techniques: Norfolk Island pine can be cultivated by sowing or cuttings. Norfolk Island pine planted in the north rarely sets seed, so cutting cultivation is often used. In spring, collect upright new shoots or leggy branches growing from lateral buds as cuttings (if lateral branches or weak branches are used as cuttings, the crown shape of the cultivated plant will be irregular and lose ornamental value). The cuttings are 7 cm long, and when inserted into a greenhouse sand bed at 13-16°C and 60-80% relative air humidity, they can root. Alternatively, cut off the top of a young tree, wait for the upright new shoots to grow from the top lateral buds, and then cut the branches in spring for cuttings.
Sowing cultivation: Before sowing, it is best to break or wound the seed coat first to promote germination. Seed-sown seedlings have a long taproot and few fibrous roots, and are prone to dying when transplanted. Grasping technical points such as protecting the roots, planting carefully, keeping warm, and shading can improve seedling survival rate. For seedlings with broken roots, they can be washed with clean water and inserted into plain sand, and at suitable temperature they can re-root from the cut surface in 1-2 weeks. For seedlings with broken buds and broken stems but with leaves, they can be planted as usual, and after surviving they will sprout new buds after a certain period.
Management techniques: Norfolk Island pine likes light and needs full light, but dislikes strong light. In summer, place it outdoors in tree shade or a semi-shaded spot. If placed in a cold, dark place for a long time, the plant will grow thin and tall. In September it should be moved into a frost-free, well-lit cool room. The temperature should change gradually, and after October the ideal temperature is 5-10°C. During the growing season, water the plant regularly, and in winter keep the soil moist. If the potting soil is too dry in summer, the water amount is too large in winter, or the relative air temperature is below 60%, the lower leaves will become soft and drooping. In winter, too dark light or too high temperature will cause needle leaves to fall off or turn yellow. During the growing season, apply a calcium-free fertilizer once every two weeks. Generally repot once every 2-3 years in spring to prevent the plant from growing too tall. The potting soil is best mixed with three parts loam, one part leaf mold, one part coarse sand and a small amount of plant ash. The depth of the soil layer should be controlled so that the buds rooting in the upper layer are just exposed on the soil surface.
Ornamental value: Norfolk Island pine has a beautiful tree shape and grows quickly. It is used for row planting or solitary planting in courtyards, and young trees are precious foliage plants. In addition, Norfolk Island pine has excellent wood quality and is an important timber tree species in Australia and South Africa.

VI. Boston fern

Boston fern is a terrestrial fern foliage plant of the Nephrolepidaceae family and the Nephrolepis genus.
Origin and habits: Boston fern is produced in tropical or subtropical regions. It likes shade and humidity, has no strict temperature requirements, has relatively strong cold resistance, and dislikes direct sunlight. The cultivation soil should be loose and well aerated.
Morphological characteristics: Boston fern is a mutant species of the Nephrolepis genus. It has once-pinnate compound leaves, and its pinnae are broader and more drooping than the original species. The pinnae are 90-100 cm long, lanceolate, and yellow-green. The leaflets are flat, the leaf margins are wavy, and the leaf tips are twisted.
Cultivation techniques: Boston fern does not produce spore leaves and can only be cultivated by division or runners. Division can be carried out all year round, with spring and autumn being better. After division, water thoroughly and place in a shaded spot, and it can quickly resume growth.
Management techniques: For outdoor cultivation of Boston fern, about half (by volume) of expanded plastic artificial soil can be mixed into ordinary culture soil and stirred evenly. Indoor potted plants can completely use lightweight, clean and hygienic pure expanded plastic artificial soil. Boston fern is suitable for cultivation in a shade shed, with a layer of shade curtain covering the shed. Covering it with another layer of colorless film is even better, as it prevents rain and avoids direct sunlight. During the growing period, water once a day, preferably by drip irrigation, so as to avoid water droplets on the leaves causing yellowing and rot. In hot summer, water can also be sprayed around the potted flowers to increase humidity. In winter, water should be properly controlled, keeping it moist is enough. During the growing period, nitrogen fertilizer must be applied. For outdoor cultivation, thin organic fertilizer water can be applied 2 times a month, and the leaves must not be contaminated; for indoor cultivation, a nitrogen-based nutrient solution can be supplemented once every 2 months or so. To ensure a beautiful plant shape and promote air circulation, dead and yellow old leaves should be pruned together with shaping.
Ornamental value: Boston fern has bright green leaves and an elegant plant shape. As a potted plant for indoor display or as wall-mounted or mosaic plant decorative material, it has a distinctive character.

VII. Asparagus fern

Asparagus fern, also known as cloud bamboo and mountain grass, belongs to the Liliaceae family and the Asparagus genus.
Origin and habits: Asparagus fern is native to South Africa. It likes warm, humid and semi-shaded conditions, and is not tolerant of drought or frost. It requires soil rich in humus and well drained.
Morphological characteristics: Asparagus fern is a perennial herbaceous plant, with smooth and slender stems, in a climbing form. The leaves are fine, spread horizontally, and small, about 3-5 mm long. True leaves degenerate into scales or spines. Flowers are small, bisexual, white. Berries are spherical, purple-black. The flowering period is mostly February to March or June to July, and some bloom twice.
Cultivation techniques: Asparagus fern is mostly cultivated by sowing and division. Sowing is carried out in March to April, and the seeds are soaked for 24 hours before sowing. Sow in spots in a 10 cm deep pot, cover with glass or plastic film, maintain a temperature of 20-25°C and keep the potting soil moist, and germination can occur in 20-30 days. When seedlings are 5-10 cm tall, they can be planted in a greenhouse or potted. Large 4-5 year old plants can be divided in spring for cultivation.
Management techniques: Asparagus fern is a shade plant and should not be placed in a place with too strong light, otherwise the branches and leaves easily turn yellow. Watering should be appropriate, keeping the potting soil alternating between wet and dry; generally watering to make the surface soil moist is enough, and in dry seasons clean water should be sprayed on the leaf surface more often. Asparagus fern likes fertilizer; apply once every 10-15 days a fully decomposed thin liquid fertilizer mainly of nitrogen and potassium, or residual milk mixed with water. Asparagus fern grows quickly, so weak, overly dense, old branches and dead stems should be thinned and pruned at any time, which is beneficial for ventilation and maintaining a low posture. Asparagus fern can also be planted in bamboo tubes, whose water permeability and water retention are both good, and there is no need to drill holes in the bottom of the pot.
Ornamental value: Asparagus fern is mainly used as a potted foliage plant. It is fresh and elegant, and when placed in a study it shows even more scholarly atmosphere. The roots, stems and leaves of asparagus fern can all be used as medicine, and can be collected all year round. Its branches and leaves are fine, upright and elegant, with dense and green spacing, and a natural and unrestrained posture. It is a good accompanying material for cut flowers, bouquets and flower baskets.

VIII. Alexander palm

The false areca palm is an evergreen tall tree in the palm family.
Origin and habits: The false areca palm is native to Oceania, and in China it can be cultivated in the open ground in places such as Guangdong, Hainan, and Taiwan, China. The false areca palm likes a high-temperature, high-humidity, wind-sheltered, sunny environment. In the north it is mostly grown in pots, and the potting soil is best as a slightly acidic sandy loam with good drainage.
Morphological characteristics: The false areca palm can reach more than 18 m in height, with a ringed trunk, solitary and upright; the leaves are pinnate compound leaves, 1-2 m long, with slender leaflets clustered at the top, and the base of the petiole wraps around the trunk in a ring, leaving a ring of node scars after falling off; it generally blooms in summer, with drooping paniculate spicate inflorescences, milky yellow; the fruit is spherical and red.
Propagation techniques: The false areca palm is mainly propagated by sowing. After the seeds are harvested, the flesh is washed off, and the seeds are soaked in warm water for two days before sowing. They should be transplanted as they germinate. Growth is relatively slow in the young stage, and rapid after maturity.
Management techniques: When planting the false areca palm, apply base fertilizer, and during the vigorous growth season, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once a month. In winter, the room temperature should not be lower than 10°C. During the dormant period, control watering and keep the potting soil moist, and repot once every 1-2 years.
Ornamental value: The false areca palm plant is tall and majestic, and decorates interiors with extraordinary bearing. Its emerald, drooping leaves flutter in the wind, making people feel as if they are in a tropical scene.

9. Golden Barrel Cactus

Golden Barrel Cactus, also known as Yellow-Spined Golden Barrel Cactus, is the most charming ball cactus species in the cactus family, genus Echinocactus. Among cultivated palms there are also several main varieties, such as white-spined golden barrel cactus, wild-spined golden barrel cactus, short-spined golden barrel cactus, golden barrel cactus variegata, and golden barrel cactus cristata.
Origin and habits: The golden barrel cactus is native to the desert regions of Mexico, and has now been introduced and cultivated in both southern and northern China. The golden barrel cactus likes ample sunlight and mostly prefers fertile, well-drained sandy loam. During the hot high-temperature period in summer, it should be appropriately shaded to prevent the body from being scorched by strong light.
Morphological characteristics: The stem of the golden barrel cactus is spherical, the body is dark green, densely covered with yellow hard spines, and the top of the ball is densely covered with golden-yellow wool; the flowers are yellow, borne at the top among the wool, of equal size, very beautiful and spectacular; the fruit is covered with scales and wool, and the seeds are black and smooth.
Propagation techniques: The golden barrel cactus is propagated by sowing and by grafting offsets. 1. Sowing method: seeds harvested in the same year have a high germination rate. Sowing is carried out from May to September. After germination, 30-40 days later the seedling body has already reached the size of a grain of rice or a mung bean, and it can be transplanted or grafted onto a rootstock to accelerate growth. 2. Offset grafting method: graft seedlings cultivated for more than 3 months onto tender Hylocereus undatus to accelerate growth. When the scion grows to a certain size or the rootstock can no longer support it, it can be cut off, dried at the wound, and then cuttings can be potted. In a good environment with fertile soil and air circulation, seedlings grown without grafting also grow quickly. After potting, seedlings or grafted offsets should be placed in half shade, avoiding direct sunlight, and if the body does not shrink after 7-10 days, they have survived.
Management techniques: The golden barrel cactus likes calcareous sandy loam, which can be mixed with equal parts coarse sand, loam, leaf mold, and a small amount of aged wall ash. Every year, the pot should be turned and the soil changed once, and old roots should be cut off. In mid-March, take the ball out of the pot, cut off the old roots, and do not damage the main root. After cutting, place it in a ventilated place to dry for 4-5 days so that the cut wound air-dries; the new culture soil used for repotting should preferably use fermented livestock and poultry manure as base fertilizer, add coal ash, plant ash, and a small amount of animal bone meal, and mix thoroughly; the pot should be disinfected by sunlight, steaming, and spraying chemicals to prevent root rot.
The golden barrel cactus likes ample sunlight, but in summer it should be kept in half shade. When the temperature reaches above 35°C, it should be shaded around noon to avoid strong sunlight scorching the body. Before 10 a.m. or after 5 p.m., it can be placed in sunlight to encourage more flower buds and to avoid excessive shading, which makes the body elongate and reduces ornamental value. The overwintering temperature should be kept at 8-10°C, and the potting soil should be kept dry. If the temperature is too low, yellow spots will appear on the body. In summer, protect it from rain.
Summer is the peak growth season for the golden barrel cactus, and water demand increases. If there is drought, water frequently, preferably in the early morning and evening, and never water with very cold water at hot noon, as this easily causes "chilling" and leads to �. If the potting soil is too dry at noon, spray a little water to moisten the surface of the pot only, and do not spray water on the top of the ball or the grafted part, so as to avoid water accumulation and rot. During the growth period, apply 1-2 times every half month a dilute fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and other components, used together with watering. Organic fertilizer must be fully decomposed and the concentration appropriate.
The golden barrel cactus is robust by nature and has strong disease resistance, but in summer, due to factors such as humidity, heat, and poor ventilation, it is susceptible to red spiders, scale insects, whiteflies, and other pests and diseases, so control should be strengthened. For pests and diseases such as red spiders, scale insects, and whiteflies, control should be strengthened. For red spiders, spray with 40% dimethoate or 90% trichlorfon at 1000-1500 times dilution. When scale insects, whiteflies, and other pests are found causing damage, they can be removed by hand.
Ornamental value: The golden barrel cactus has a very long lifespan and is easy to cultivate. Adult large golden barrel cacti have abundant flowers and robust bodies, resplendent in gold and jade, with very high ornamental value. Moreover, it is small in size and occupies little space, making it an ideal ornamental plant for urban household greening.

10. Money Tree

The scientific name of the money tree is Pachira aquatica, also known as money tree, Malabar chestnut, and Guiana chestnut. It is a foliage plant in the Malvaceae family, genus Pachira (genus Bombacopsis).
Origin and habits: The money tree is native to tropical America. In 1964, China introduced it from Mexico, and it was cultivated in the specimen garden of the Guangdong Academy of Forestry, and it has now bloomed and fruited. It likes warmth and humidity, requires soil with good drainage, and moderate temperatures are sufficient for growth. The money tree is not strict about light, and can adapt well whether under strong light or in a dim room.
Morphological characteristics: The money tree is an evergreen tree, and the tree height can reach about 10 m. The palmate compound leaves are alternate, with petioles 10-28 cm long; there are 5-9 leaflets, the leaves are oblong-elliptic, entire, with pointed tips, about 10-22 cm long, with pinnate veins, and short petiolules. The flowers are solitary in the leaf axils, with 2-3 small bracts, and the flowers are pale yellow.
Propagation techniques: The money tree is usually propagated for new plants by sowing seeds to raise seedlings, and can also be propagated by cuttings. Because seed-grown seedlings have the characteristics of uniform emergence, straight roots and smooth seedlings, being easy to braid, and being able to grow cute round "radish heads," this has become the propagation method commonly used by horticultural producers. However, at present a large amount of the seeds mainly comes from overseas, and Hainan can produce a small amount itself.
Money tree cuttings are easy to propagate, and in South China this can be done all year round. Enthusiasts in the north may do it from May to August, when temperatures are relatively high each year. For cuttings, use the top shoots or branches cut from potted pruning, about 10-15 cm long, and insert them into plain sand or loam, with a high survival rate. Compared with seedling-grown plants, cutting-grown plants have the defects that the head stem does not swell or only slightly swells and the stem is not attractive. This method is not used in horticultural production and is limited to home hobby cultivation.
Management techniques: The money tree requires heavy, moderately fertile soil with good drainage and a pH of about 6.5. Generally, use 6 parts garden soil, 2 parts decomposed organic fertilizer, and 2 parts coarse sand, or 8 parts leaf mold and 2 parts cinder to prepare the culture soil. The pot or tub should be at least 40 cm deep to facilitate root growth and development. In summer, avoid direct sunlight and place it where there is scattered light; in winter, place it in a bright indoor spot. In winter, keep the room temperature at 15-25°C, and never let the room temperature fall below 8°C, otherwise cold damage easily occurs, with leaf drop in mild cases and death in severe cases. The money tree should not be watered too much, to prevent water accumulation in the potting soil, which causes root rot and plant death. Water should be sprayed on the leaves every day to ensure emerald green leaf color. Appropriate topdressing with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can make the stem thick and strong, showing a vigorous and antique beauty. In spring, prune the branches to encourage new shoots from the stem base, so that the new shoots are convenient for binding and shaping.
Ornamental value: The money tree has an elegant tree posture and bright colors. Besides braided shaping, it can also be grafted into animal shapes such as deer, dog, sea lion, and swimming dragon. It can be used for indoor greening decoration in major hotels, restaurants, shopping malls, and homes, with extraordinary style, and is a good ornamental garden tree.

11. Poinsettia

 Poinsettia, also known as scarlet milkweed, ivory red, and old-age, is an upright shrub in the Euphorbiaceae family, genus Euphorbia.
 Origin and habits: Poinsettia is native to Mexico and tropical America. It likes warmth and ample sunlight, and needs fertile, loose soil with strong air permeability and good drainage.
 Morphological characteristics: Poinsettia is 1-3 m tall, and the stems have white milky sap; the simple leaves are alternate, ovate-elliptic to broadly lanceolate, 10-15 cm long, entire or with wavy teeth, green, with soft hairs on the underside. The inflorescence is terminal, and the leaves below are vermilion, 5-7 cm in diameter; the involucre is pale green, and each bract has 1-2 large yellow glands.
 Propagation techniques: Poinsettia is propagated by hardwood or softwood cuttings. 1. Hardwood cuttings are mostly carried out from March to May in spring. Cut annual woody or semi-woody branches, about 10 cm long, as cuttings; remove the leaves on the cuttings, dip the cut ends in plant ash, and after the cuts dry, insert them into fine sand to a depth of about 5 cm, water thoroughly, and keep the temperature at 22-24°C. Roots form in about one month. 2. Softwood cuttings are made by selecting current-year soft shoots when they have grown to 6-8 leaves, taking a 6-8 cm long tender shoot with 3-4 nodes, cutting flat below the node, removing the large basal leaves, and immediately putting it into clean water to prevent the milky sap from flowing out, then inserting it for cuttings and keeping the medium moist. Roots can form in about 20 days.
 Management techniques: Poinsettia can be cultivated in the open ground in southern China and in greenhouses in the north, but from May to September it needs to receive sufficient light so that the plant can grow fully, and day length is an important factor affecting poinsettia flowering. Poinsettia has a higher fertilizer requirement than gladiolus and carnation. Adult plants usually need, 2 weeks before flower bud differentiation, one teaspoon per plant of a 14:14:14 nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium resin-coated slow-release fertilizer to supplement the deficiency of soluble fertilizer, and in winter the fertilizer concentration should be reduced by half. Apart from the period when cuttings are rooting, when the leaves prefer moisture, at other times the leaf surface is better kept dry. Pinch 2-3 times in summer and autumn, thin out weak branches, and apply liquid fertilizer once a month. If earlier flowering is desired, select plants whose branches are 20 cm long, shorten the day length to 9 hours per day, and they can bloom after 40 days. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 5°C.
 Ornamental value: The natural flowering period of poinsettia is in mid-to-late December, just before Christmas and New Year's Day, adding a warm and joyful atmosphere to the holidays, and it is a major holiday potted flower. In recent years, because its flowering period is long, its bracts are brilliant red and eye-catching, and its flowering period is easy to control, it has also been used in cut flower production and is generally welcomed by people.

12. Hyacinth

 The hyacinth, hailed as the "Western narcissus," takes its name from the transliteration of the Greek Hyakinthos, originally the name of a handsome young man in Greek mythology who was loved by the god Apollo. It is native to southern Europe and Asia Minor. As a world-famous fragrant flower today, it is cultivated most in the Netherlands and sells well around the world.
 Abroad, the flower language of the hyacinth is "as long as the fire of life is lit, a rich life can be shared." This precisely expresses the hyacinth's beautiful appearance and inner meaning. It belongs to the Liliaceae family as a perennial herb. Its bulb is a spherical scale bulb, the plant is about half a chi tall, and the leaves are like short swords, thick and stalkless, 5-6 in total. The flower is drawn from the bulb and forms a raceme, densely surrounded by 20-30 small flowers, each flower with 6 petals, like a small rolled-edge bell, opening section by section from bottom to top, and can give off waves of fragrance. The degree of fragrance varies among varieties: those with pink flowers are lightly fragrant, those with light purple flowers are more richly fragrant, and those with pure white flowers have a weaker fragrance, so people with experience in appreciating hyacinths can distinguish them quickly.
 Because of differences in national character, cultural attainment, and appreciation levels, people's impressions of narcissus flowers differ greatly. Chinese people have deep feelings for the elegant yet not flirtatious, delicate yet not arrogant, icy-boned and jade-like, refined and serene charm of Zhangzhou narcissus. Westerners, however, flock to the hyacinth's dazzling splendor, brilliant colors, peculiar charm, and unrestrained style. The hyacinth happens to match their visual response. Therefore, flowerbeds or flower borders in European and American countries often plant hyacinths in masses, and when they bloom they look like brilliant colorful paintings. Many families also grow hyacinths in specially made gourd-like glass bottles, where the upper part allows appreciation of the flower cluster and the lower part allows seeing a bundle of thick white roots. This scene of both flowers and roots flourishing together is rarely seen in other flowers and plants besides orchids.
 Today, there are about more than 130 horticultural varieties of hyacinth in the world. They are mainly divided into two categories: "Dutch types" and "Roman types." The former are authentic varieties, and the vast majority of plants produce only 1 flower scape, with a stout habit and larger flowers. The latter are mostly variant hybrids, and each plant can bear 2-3 flower scapes, with a delicate habit and smaller flowers. Most consumers prefer to buy Dutch hyacinths. At present, China cannot yet propagate the seeds itself and still needs to introduce them from abroad. When selecting bulbs, pay attention to choosing those with bright skin color, firm texture, and no disease spots or insect holes. Usually the color of the seed coat can basically indicate what color flower it will produce; for example, if the outer skin is purplish red, it will produce purplish red flowers. If it is white, it will produce white flowers. But some varieties bred through hybridization have more complex colors, sometimes difficult to distinguish clearly, so it is best to ask the seller clearly before buying.
 After the bulbs are purchased, in order to break dormancy, first put them in the lowest compartment of the refrigerator for cold storage for about one month, so that they can bloom smoothly later. But when taking them out of the refrigerator, it is best to move them to a cool place for seven or eight days before planting. There are two ways to cultivate hyacinths: one is pot cultivation. That is, in October, plant the bulbs into pots with culture soil, 1 bulb per small pot, or 3-4 bulbs per large pot, then cover with soil. After planting, pay attention to applying more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and after about 120 days they can bloom. The second is water culture. In December, place the bulbs in a wide-mouthed glass bottle with a grid, add a little charcoal to help disinfect and prevent rot. The bulb only needs to be soaked to the bottom. Then place it in a dark place and cover the bottle with black cloth. After more than 20 days in this way, the roots will sprout in a completely dark environment. At this time, it can be brought outdoors to receive sunlight. At first, give one or two hours of sunlight per day, then gradually increase to seven or eight hours. If the weather does not change much, it may bloom by the Spring Festival.
 After the hyacinth blooms, if the bulb is preserved well, planting it again the next year may hopefully bloom again. However, because such a bulb has already degenerated, even if it may survive, the plant will become shorter and the flower scape will tend to shrink, so it cannot continue to be retained. It is safer to buy new bulbs for cultivation the following year.

13. Western Azalea

� In the past, when people strolled through Lunar New Year flower markets, most only bought some peach blossoms, chrysanthemums, silver willows, and the like for vase arrangements. In recent years, with the emergence of large numbers of trendy flowers, many people have become interested in those light and exquisite small potted flowers. In particular, the Western azalea, spreading red and displaying green, outshining all other flowers, is most able to move people's hearts, and everyone always prays to be able to have one at Spring Festival.
 Western azalea, abbreviated as Western azalea. It is a new variety obtained by Dutch and Belgian experts through long-term hybridization and selection. It is said to contain the kinship of Chinese azaleas. Because it was initially cultivated and promoted most in Belgium, it is also called "Belgian azalea," and is one of the most widely popular famous flowers in the world today. Its characteristics are a short and sturdy plant type, a compact crown, abundant flowers and lush leaves, mostly double and semi-double, and its petal shapes include round and broad, narrow and long, backward-curving, wavy, and ruffled edges. Its patterns include dot red, bordered, flying white, gold-sprinkled, cloud-colored, and so on. Generally, a plant with a crown diameter of 25 cm can bloom 30-40 flowers, two or three times more than local azaleas. The flowers are dignified, charming, elegant, and fascinating, lasting 40-50 days from first flower to last, and by the Chinese Valentine's Day, the Lantern Festival, its sweet smiling face can still be seen.
 Originally, "in March the azaleas are red." According to the floral calendar of China, azaleas mostly finish blooming before late spring. Their style of "all kinds of red and purple vying in fragrance" often makes the mountains red all over and the earth embroidered. But it happens to be exactly when the azalea bird is crying most intensely, and they call "why not go back, why not go back," so some poets "suspected it was blood from the mouth, dripping into flowers on the branches." Thus the saying "the azalea weeps blood" spread widely, leading many people to regard it as a "flower of grief and resentment." This has long been explained by scientists. It turns out that azaleas mostly bloom abundantly from March to May, when azalea birds generally come into heat and seek mates. The inner wall of their mouths is originally red, and what they sing with open mouths is precisely love songs poured out in search of a mate. This is originally the happiest and most joyful time for the azalea bird, and it is completely wrong for some to describe it as sorrowful. In recent years, with the increasing popularization of science, many flower lovers have further updated their ideas. Instead, they feel that the mass of Western azalea flowers is like an abundant hydrangea, with a strong auspicious meaning of "baskets and bowls full." Therefore, Western azaleas sell very well in Lunar New Year flower markets. Before the 1994 Spring Festival, Guangdong Province introduced 600,000 pots from abroad, each selling for forty or fifty yuan, and all of them entered thousands of households and bloomed brilliantly. It can truly be said, "Looking back, peach and plum have no color; reflected, even hibiscus is not a flower."
 The varieties of Western azalea are very rich, with about more than 300 in Europe and America alone. During the flowering period, they can be distinguished by flower color and form, and before and after flowering they can be distinguished by observing leaf shape. In various parts of Lingnan, about 25-30 varieties have been introduced in recent years, while Shanghai has 40-50. Most of those more welcomed by the public are varieties with red and pink flowers. Such varieties as the red-flowered "Aurora," "Red Unicorn," and "Crimson Hibiscus"; the white with red edges and wavy petals "Crown"; and the red petals with white edges and ruffled petal margins "Dance of the Heavenly Maiden" are relatively popular. But pure white varieties, because they do not suit the holiday atmosphere, often have a price but no market. At present, most Western azaleas imported into the Pearl River Delta before Spring Festival are cultivated by cuttings in artificial climate chambers abroad and generally have the characteristics of standardization, series production, and intensification. After being transported to the mainland and undergoing a period of light and temperature adjustment, they can be marketed before Spring Festival. If domestic variety selection and cultivation of Western azaleas catch up to the advanced level in the future, it will save the country a sum of foreign exchange.
 Western azalea is a perennial woody plant, and its vitality is much stronger than that of herbaceous flowers. As long as you understand its growth habits and manage it carefully, it can continue to bloom the next year. According to observation, in its life it has "five likes and five fears." The "five likes" are liking a cool climate, acidic soil, ventilation and light transmission, moderate dryness and moisture, and frequent application of thin fertilizer. The "five fears" are fearing strong sunlight, severe cold, muggy heat, dampness, and concentrated fertilizer. After all its flowers have faded, the plant can be taken out, some old roots cut off, and it can be repotted into a larger clay pot with an appropriate amount of new planting material added. Water thoroughly, avoid exposure to strong sunlight, and after 1 month use compound fertilizer dissolved in clear water and diluted 100 times as a topdressing to promote new branch growth. In summer, move it to a cool place to escape the heat, and in winter pay attention to cold protection. The rest can be cultivated according to conventional methods, and in this way the Western azalea can continue to be enjoyed for a while.

14. Cyclamen

Cyclamen is also known as one-product crown, rabbit flower, monk's hat flower, radish begonia, and so on. Primulaceae family, genus Cyclamen.
Origin and habits: Cyclamen is native to southern Europe and near the Mediterranean. It likes a mild, humid, cool, and shaded environment, but dislikes excessive moisture. It requires a cultivation site rich in humus and lime and with good drainage.
 Morphological characteristics: Cyclamen is a perennial corm herbaceous plant. The corm is fleshy, flattened-round tuberous or spherical, purplish black, with dense fibrous roots at the base; leaves grow from the top of the corm in a clustered form, and the petioles are purplish red. The leaves are ovate or heart-shaped, green on the surface, mostly with white markings, purple on the underside, and the leaf margins have serrations or shallow wavy notches; the flowers are solitary, nodding, with the perianth curling upward like rabbit ears, and the pedicels are slender. The flowers are white, pink, light purple, deep purple, orange-yellow, orange-red, and so on, often with deep red or deep purple spots at the base. The capsule is spherical and contains many seeds. The flowering period is from autumn to spring.
 Propagation techniques: Cyclamen is mainly propagated by sowing, and can also be propagated by dividing the corm. Sowing propagation can be done in spring or autumn. It is generally carried out from September to October. Before sowing, soak the seeds in warm water at 24°C for 12-24 hours, sow them in spots or insert them at a spacing of 1-2 cm, and cover with about 5 mm of soil. Place them in a dark place at 18-20°C; roots can form in 2 weeks, and 1 cotyledon grows in 4-6 weeks, at which point move them into the light. Division propagation is generally carried out after the autumn dormant period. Cut the old corm with a sharp knife into 2-4 pieces, making sure each piece has a terminal bud, coat the cuts with plant ash, and then plant them. Water after 1 day to avoid wound rot.
 Management techniques: The suitable growth temperature for cyclamen is 15-25°C, and it begins dormancy when it exceeds 30°C. In summer high temperatures, place it in a cool, shaded place, and do not let it get rained on. Cyclamen dislikes excessive moisture. Water once every morning, pouring slowly from the edge of the pot. Do not spray water directly on the leaves or the center of the plant. After the flowering period, reduce the amount of watering, and water once every 2-3 days. Stop watering at the end of July, let the leaves wither and enter dormancy, then begin watering again in the following spring and increase the amount of watering after new leaves grow. During the growth period of cyclamen, apply dilute fertilizer water once a week or every 10 days, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times intensively before flowering, and stop fertilizing during the flowering period to avoid bud drop. The fruit of cyclamen matures from May to June after flowering. Harvest when the fruit turns from green to yellow, store it in a cool place, generally at a low temperature of 2°C, where it can be kept for more than 4 years and still germinate.
 Ornamental value: Cyclamen has a long flowering period and bright flower colors, and especially when it blooms in winter it adds infinite spring feeling to the room.

15. Camellia

 Camellia is also known as Sichuan camellia, winter-hardy, and tea flower. Theaceae family, genus Camellia.
 Origin and habits: Camellia is native to southern and southwestern China, and is widely cultivated in provinces such as Sichuan, Yunnan, Fujian, Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Hunan, and Anhui. Camellia likes warmth, humidity, and half shade. It is unsuitable in places that are too cold, too hot, or windy. It dislikes exposure to sunlight and requires loose, well-drained, humus-rich acidic soil, with pH 5.5-6.5 being best.
 Morphological characteristics: Camellia is an evergreen shrub or small tree. The leaves are leathery, ovate, elliptic to obovate, with obtuse acuminate tips, wedge-shaped bases, fine serrations, dark green and glossy surfaces, and the leaf surface arches upward, while the leaf margins and leaf tips often curve downward; the flowers are solitary or opposite in the leaf axils or at the branch tips, red, stalkless, with 5-7 petals, round; the capsule is spherical or angled.
 Propagation techniques: Camellia can be propagated by sowing, cuttings, grafting, layering, and other methods. Sowing is generally used to breed new varieties or propagate rootstocks. After the seeds mature in autumn and winter, they are collected and sown immediately in the seedbed. At 18-20°C, they can germinate in 10-30 days, and cultivation requires 4-5 years before flowering. Cuttings are carried out from April to June. Select annual hardwood branches, about 10-15 cm long, leave 1 terminal bud and 1 lateral bud at the upper end, with 2-3 leaves attached, ring-bark them, and all lower leaves must be removed. The cutting medium can be sandy loam or humus soil. Place the cutting pot under a shade frame, maintain a temperature of 18-20°C and relative humidity of 80%-85%, and roots form in about 60-100 days, with new shoots sprouting the following spring. Current-year softwood cuttings can also be used, rooting in about 30 days. Horticultural varieties of camellia are often propagated by approach grafting. The rootstock can be seedlings of camellia, oil tea, and sasanqua. Locally, cutting seedlings of the variety Camellia albiflora are often used as rootstock. The scion is preferably a 2-3 year old branch about 30-40 cm long. Cut a 4-5 cm long incision on the base of the scion and on the root crown of the rootstock, then join the two. Approach grafting is suitable from May to June. After grafting, in about 100-120 days the rootstock and scion can fully heal, and they can be cut away from the mother plant. Air layering is carried out from May to October. Select a robust annual branch, make a 1 cm wide ring bark, wrap the wound with a plastic bag filled with leaf mold, keep it moist, and roots form in 2 months; then cut it off and pot it.
 Management techniques: Camellia is sensitive to light, and do not move the potted plant's position toward the light; camellia likes fertilizer, and after flowering in April it should be given supplemental fertilizer to promote spring shoot sprouting. In June, topdressing should be applied to promote summer shoot sprouting and flower bud formation. From October to November, supplemental fertilizer should be applied to improve the plant's cold resistance. Fertilizers are mainly potassium dihydrogen phosphate, decomposed bean cake water, and so on; during the growth period, camellia should have sufficient moisture and humid air, and the leaves should be sprayed often. Watering can use alkaline water, or alternate "alum fertilizer water" with clear water; in summer, camellia should be placed under a shade frame, and if indoors it should be cool and ventilated; after flowering or in September-October, change the potting soil. The potting soil should be loose, with a ratio of loam mixed with an equal amount of leaf mold or peat soil, and a small amount of river sand added.
 Ornamental value: Camellia is a precious flower unique to China. Its plant form is graceful, its flower form is gorgeous, and its flowering period is in early spring, so it is highly valued by the horticultural world.

16. Kumquat

Kumquat, also known as golden bullet and golden citrus, belongs to the Rutaceae family, genus Fortunella.
 Origin and habits: Kumquat is native to the warm regions of southern China. It likes humidity and coolness, is relatively cold-resistant, drought-tolerant, and slightly shade-tolerant. It requires deep, fertile, slightly acidic soil.
 Morphological characteristics: Kumquat is an evergreen shrub or small tree. The plant height can reach 3 m. The leaves are oblong-lanceolate, tapering at both ends, 4-9 cm long, with inconspicuous serrations at the tip; the petioles have narrow wings; the flowers are borne in the leaf axils, white, with 5 petals. The fruit is small, obovate, about 3 cm long, yellow when ripe, juicy and delicious, and can be eaten with the peel.
 Propagation techniques: Seedling progeny of sown kumquat are mostly variable, varieties are prone to degeneration, and fruiting is late, so sowing propagation is generally not used. Grafting propagation is commonly used. Rootstocks such as trifoliate orange and sour orange can improve cold resistance. Bud grafting and branch grafting are generally used. Bud grafting is carried out from June to September. Potted plants often use approach grafting, and they are transplanted before sprouting the next year.
 Management techniques: Potted kumquat requires proper water and fertilizer management. Before spring buds sprout, cut off some of last year's branches, leaving 2-3 buds on robust ones, and keep 3 pruned 1-year-old branches per plant, which helps spring shoots sprout. When new buds grow to 15-20 cm, pinch them to make the branches full. When the branches are fully grown, apply a fast-acting phosphorus fertilizer such as superphosphate once to prevent excessive vegetative growth of branches and leaves and promote flower bud differentiation and flowering and fruiting. By the end of May, the current year's spring shoots bloom and bear fruit. During the flowering period, thin the flowers appropriately, and after fruit set, thin the fruit once according to tree vigor, preferably 2-3 per branch. Promptly cut off autumn shoots to prevent a second fruiting.
 Ornamental value: Potted kumquat is evergreen all year round, with lush branches and leaves and a graceful tree shape. It blooms in summer, with jade-white flowers and fragrance spreading far. In autumn and winter, the ripe fruit is yellow or red, dotted among the green leaves. It can be called green leaves and golden balls, luxuriant and long-lasting, with extremely high ornamental value.

17. Sago Palm

 Cycas revoluta, also known as iron tree, phoenix-tail banana, foreign banana, fire-avoiding banana, belongs to the Cycadaceae family, genus Cycas, and is an evergreen tree.
 Origin and habits: Native to central and southern China, India, Japan, and Indonesia, originating in East Asia and Southeast Asia. It is widely cultivated in places such as Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hunan, and Sichuan. In North China, Northwest China, and other places, it is grown as a potted plant for indoor viewing. Cycas revoluta likes sunlight, dryness, and a well-ventilated environment. It is not cold-resistant, likes fertilizer, prefers sandy soil, and grows slowly.
 Morphological characteristics: Cycas revoluta can reach 8 m in height in its place of origin, and up to 3 m as an indoor potted plant. The stem is thick and cylindrical, without branching, and has thick leaf scars that form a fish-scale pattern. The leaves are clustered at the top of the stem and are large pinnate compound leaves, about 1 m long. The leaflets are linear, leathery, hard at the tip, dark green and glossy, with revolute leaf margins. Each spring it produces 2-3 whorls, and old leaves fall off successively; the flowers are unisexual, borne at the top of the stem, with male and female flowers on separate plants. The male flower is spirally arranged, pineapple-shaped, covered with down, fresh pale yellow when first opening and turning brown after maturity. The female flower is larger, with many palmate scales, shaped like a flat cylinder, gradually splitting to form a pinecone shape. Cycas revoluta rarely blooms; old trees of twenty or thirty years can bloom, hence the saying "a thousand-year iron tree blooms once." The flowering period is June-August.
 Propagation techniques: Cycas revoluta is mainly propagated by suckers, and can also be propagated by sowing or cuttings.
 Sowing propagation: From October, collect Cycas revoluta seeds, or plump seeds no more than two years old, soak them in warm water at about 50°C for 24 hours, then soak them in dilute hydrochloric acid or dilute sulfuric acid for 10-15 minutes, then rinse them clean with clear water. During soaking, change the clear water once every other day. After the seed coat has completely absorbed water, expanded, and softened, manually peel off the outer seed coat, wash off the fruit flesh, dry the seeds, and store them well. Around December, carry out sand storage treatment of the seeds. Because their seed coats are thick and hard, variable temperature treatment can be used, and finally sand storage is carried out. Use clean sandy loam, river sand, perlite, and other materials with good water retention and air permeability to make the sowing bed, with a thickness of no less than 40 cm, and water thoroughly. Sow the prepared seeds into the bed at a spacing of 5-20°C cm, at a depth of about 3 cm. Then cover with river sand 3 cm thick. Control the amount of watering according to the dryness of the soil in the bed and the fine sand covering. After watering, cover with plastic film to retain moisture and heat. Once a week, choose a sunny morning to uncover the film for ventilation. Water to keep moist when the soil is dry, and cover the film again at sunset in the afternoon. Generally, Cycas revoluta sand storage takes 4-6 months. During this period, maintain the temperature and humidity of the sand storage, with a suitable temperature of 18-25°C and relative humidity of 80-90%. Winter insulation must be done well and must not be lower than 12°C. In May-June of the following year, the seeds break through the shell, and in July-August they germinate and grow one true leaf.
 Division propagation: Division propagation should be carried out in summer. Separate the suckers from the stem of the mother plant and insert them into open ground or pots, burying half the soil. The survival rate of division propagation can reach 80-90%. Suckers grow slowly, so it is best to take suckers after 3 years to separate. Suckers with small wounds survive easily. The stem can also be cut into 15-20 cm long sections and buried in sandy soil so that new buds form around the stem section, which are then separately planted and cultivated.
 Management techniques: Cycas revoluta is suitable for growing in direct sunlight or bright scattered light. In summer, it is best to provide half shade, maintain the temperature at 15-20°C, and keep soil and air humidity somewhat higher, frequently spraying the leaf cluster. This plant has no dormant period, and the winter temperature is preferably 12-16°C; the plant has a considerable degree of cold resistance. From March to September, apply liquid fertilizer once a month. The cultivation medium is preferably a mixture of equal amounts of organic soil, peat, and fine sand. Change the potting soil once every 2-3 years, adding new soil and base fertilizer to aid growth. In summer, liquid fertilizer can be applied several times, and ferrous sulfate solution can be added to make the leaf color more dark green. After autumn, reduce the amount of watering. For pests and diseases of Cycas revoluta, scale insects are the most common on leaves. First, maintain good ventilation. After finding scale insects, observe the hatching period and spray lime sulfur mixture or fluoroacetamide.
 Ornamental value: Cycas revoluta leaves are magnificent and spectacular, and it is often used as an excellent foliage plant for garden flowerbeds, central decoration of flower mounds, or indoor arrangement in large conference halls and entrances. The leaves can also be used in cut flower arrangements for flower baskets and wreaths. Moreover, the leaves, flowers, and fruits can all be used as medicine.

18. Dieffenbachia

Dieffenbachia belongs to the Araceae family, genus Dieffenbachia (genus Dieffenbachia), and is the most common species in the genus Dieffenbachia.
Origin and habits: Native to Brazil. The minimum temperature for Dieffenbachia to overwinter in northern greenhouses must not be lower than 14°C; when the temperature drops to 7°C, the leaves fall off and the plant dies (other aspects the same as June Snow Dieffenbachia).
Morphological characteristics: Dieffenbachia is a perennial evergreen shrub-like herbaceous plant. The stem is thick and upright; the leaves are oblong to oblong-lanceolate, smooth at the tip, green, often clustered at the top of the stem, 15-30 cm long and about 15 cm wide, with irregular white or pale yellow patches and vivid coloration.??
The propagation and management techniques and ornamental value of Dieffenbachia are the same as those of June Snow Dieffenbachia. It is worth mentioning that the sap in the leaves and stems of plants in the genus Dieffenbachia is toxic, and if ingested it will cause severe swelling and pain.

19. Philodendron

Green Emperor Philodendron, also known as Green Emperor and Emperor, belongs to the Araceae family, genus Philodendron, and is an evergreen woody climbing plant.
Origin and habits: Native to Central America and South America. It likes high humidity and high temperature, and is suitable for planting in slightly acidic soil.
Morphological characteristics: The stem internodes of Green Emperor are short, with a spacing of about 1-2°C cm, and adventitious aerial roots often grow at the nodes. The stem can be 2-4°C cm thick, light brown, and poor at upright growth. The leaves are large, clustered in a rosette, gradually changing from yellow-green to green or dark green, and glossy. The spathe inflorescence is axillary.
Propagation techniques: Green Emperor propagation mainly uses tissue culture, cuttings, and division. When taking cuttings, the cut end of the cutting should be below the node. The cutting temperature should be 25-30°C, and humidity should be maintained; it roots easily. Division can be carried out together with repotting, and the method is simple.
Management techniques: When cultivating Green Emperor, choose slightly acidic peat soil or soil with relatively high humus plus a small amount of sandy soil or perlite. Use decomposed farmyard manure as base fertilizer, and topdressing can be applied as appropriate during growth. Watering should be thorough, and flexibly controlled according to season and temperature. In principle, keep the potting soil moist. The suitable growth temperature for Green Emperor is 20-30°C, air humidity should not be lower than 70%, and in autumn the temperature should be kept above 14°C. Repot once every spring, and remove only branches and old leaves to keep the stem shape attractive.
Ornamental value: Green Emperor has a graceful appearance, is evergreen, and full of elegance. It is deeply loved by people and is an excellent medicinal foliage plant for decorating hotels, conference rooms, living rooms, and so on.

20. Pothos

Pothos belongs to the Araceae family, genus Philodendron, and is a climbing vine foliage flower.
Origin and habits: Pothos is native to Central America and South America. It likes warm, humid environments and requires loose, fertile, well-drained soil.
Morphological characteristics: Pothos vines are several meters long, with aerial roots at the nodes. As the plant ages, the stem thickens and the leaves also become larger and larger. The leaves are alternate, green, with a few leaves also slightly mottled with yellow, entire, and heart-shaped.
Propagation techniques: Pothos is generally propagated by cuttings. Insert stem sections with aerial roots directly into plain sand or vermiculite to a depth of 1/3 of the cutting, water thoroughly, place in shade, spray water on the leaves every day or cover with plastic film to retain moisture, and keep the ambient temperature not lower than 20°C.
Management techniques: Household pot cultivation of pothos is relatively simple. First, there should be at least 4 established seedlings in one pot. The potting soil should be loose, fertile, and rich in organic matter, which helps it take shape. Second, pothos requires growth in an environment with relatively high temperature (in winter the room temperature cannot be lower than 10°C, otherwise yellow leaves and leaf drop easily occur) and relatively strong scattered light. If it is too dark for a long time, the internodes will become slender and weak, and the leaves will also become thinner, paler, and lose their luster.
The root system of pothos likes a moderately moist environment. The leaves require relative humidity above 60%, so while watering moderately and keeping the potting soil on the dry side, often spray water on the front and back of the leaves. In summer and autumn, spray water on the leaves every morning, noon, and evening to increase humidity. Apply dilute liquid fertilizer once every 10-1 days, and since the plant branches much, it should be pruned appropriately.
Ornamental value: Pothos is one of the very excellent indoor decorative plants. Its vines are slender and soft, and its leaves are delicate and elegant. Place a nested pot high on top of a furniture cabinet and let its vines hang down calmly, or after the hanging vines grow too long, loop and hang them into a ring, just like an emerald relief. In this way, it not only fully utilizes space and purifies the air, but also adds a lively-lined, bright-colored green decoration to the rigid cabinet surface, full of vitality, adding a harmonious touch of interest to the room.

21. Cordyline

Cordyline, also known as red-leaf iron tree, is a foliage plant in the Liliaceae family, genus Cordyline.
Origin and habits: Native to Oceania and the tropical regions of China, and also distributed in eastern India and various Pacific islands. Cordyline likes a warm and humid climate, is not cold-resistant, and is slightly shade-tolerant. It is suitable for growing in fertile, loose loam and dislikes alkaline soil.
Morphological characteristics: Cordyline is an evergreen shrub, with a plant height of up to 3 m, single-stemmed or sparsely branched. The leaves are lanceolate-elliptic to oblong, clustered at the top of the stem, 25-50 cm long and 5-10 cm wide, green or with purplish red; the petioles are grooved, 10-30 cm long, broadened at the base, and clasping the stem. The panicle is borne in the upper leaf axils, with small flowers, pale red or purple, rarely pale yellow, and the flowering period is from spring to summer.
Propagation techniques: Cordyline can be propagated by sowing, cuttings, layering, and root division, but cuttings and root division are commonly used. The stems and leaves of Cordyline easily produce adventitious buds. When the buds are 3-5 cm long, they can be cut off for cuttings and root very easily. Stem tips can also be cut for cuttings. Cuttings can also use the buried-stem method. Cut mature branches 5-10 cm long with at least three stem nodes, remove the leaves, bury them horizontally in sand, keep moist, and roots form after one month. The cutting medium is preferably a mixture of peat and river sand, at a temperature of 21-25°C. For old plants cultivated for several years, the lower leaves fall off and the ornamental effect is poor. After the temperature rises in spring, the terminal bud can be cut off, and many tillers will sprout from the base of the stem, which can be used as propagation material after 1 year.
Management techniques: During the growth period of Cordyline, apply liquid fertilizer once every 1-2 weeks. Insufficient fertilizer easily causes old leaves to fall off and new leaves to become smaller. During the growing season, keep the potting soil moist and the air temperature relatively high; otherwise it will cause dry leaf tips and yellowing edges. Avoid direct sunlight, and the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 10-13°C.
Ornamental value: Cordyline is mostly used for garden planting in the south or indoor potting in the north, to appreciate its distinctive stems and varied leaf forms and leaf colors.

22. Dutch Dragon Tree

Dutch Dragon Tree, also known as dragon's blood tree and thousand-year tree, belongs to the Liliaceae family, genus Dracaena, and is an evergreen tree.
Origin and habits: Native to West Africa, and also distributed in Africa, Asia, and the archipelagoes between Asia and Australia. In China, Dracaena cochinchinensis, Dracaena godseffiana, Dracaena goldieana, and Dracaena sanderiana are commonly seen. It likes high temperature, high humidity, and ample sunlight.
Morphological characteristics: Dutch Dragon Tree is mostly a tall and sturdy evergreen tree, slightly branched, with leaves clustered at the top of the stem, 45-60 cm long and 3-4 cm wide. The leaves are green, sword-shaped, hard and upright. The panicle has small greenish flowers. If too shaded, the leaf color is insufficient; it requires well-drained soil.
Propagation techniques: Dutch Dragon Tree is generally propagated by cuttings. In summer, select robust branches, cut them off, remove the leaves, and insert them for cuttings. The medium is a mixed fertile soil of humus plus river sand. After insertion, maintain a high-temperature, high-humidity environment (air temperature about 27°C, relative humidity about 85%). In the north, potted plants are best placed in a greenhouse. At home, a transparent plastic film can be used as a cylinder cover over them. Roots can form in about one month, and after new leaves grow they can be transplanted.
Management techniques: Dutch iron (Dracaena fragrans) potted plants require slightly acidic soil (pH around 6.5); sandy loam with high humus content from under coniferous forests can be used. After planting, the soil in the pot should be kept moist regularly, and water and fertilizer should vary with the seasons. In summer, when it is hot and dry, water 2 to 3 times a week; in winter, water once a week or less depending on indoor humidity. Liquid fertilizer can be applied in all four seasons. In the vigorous growth seasons of spring and summer, apply an appropriate amount of fully decomposed organic fertilizer water with relatively high nitrogen; in winter, apply cake fertilizer or other new long-acting flower fertilizers as appropriate. Regularly check the pH of the soil in the pot. If the pH reaches around 7, adjust the pH to between 6 and 6.5 with ferrous sulfate solution, and at the same time appropriately increase the soil's iron content. To avoid yellowing and drying of leaf tips, spray water appropriately on the leaf surface every morning. Ensure sufficient sunlight in all four seasons. The overwintering temperature must not be lower than 5°C.
Ornamental value: In gardens it is often cultivated as a foliage plant, and tall bonsai can also be used to decorate the rostrum of large venues, making it extremely spectacular.

23. Brazil wood

The scientific name of Brazil wood is fragrant dragon's blood tree, with the aliases Brazil iron tree, Brazil millennium tree, and golden-edged fragrant dragon's blood tree. It is a plant of the Liliaceae family and the genus Dracaena.
Origin and habits: Brazil wood is native to tropical regions. It likes environments with sufficient light, high temperature, and high humidity, and is also tolerant of shade and dryness. It also grows well in bright scattered light and in the relatively dry environment of northern homes.
Morphological characteristics: Brazil wood is an evergreen tree with a neat plant shape and an upright stem. The leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, 40 to 90 cm long and 6 to 10 cm wide, with slightly blunt tips, curved into a bow shape, and with bright yellow or milky white stripes; the leaf margins are bright green, with wavy undulations, and glossy. The flowers are small, yellow-green, and fragrant.
Cultivation techniques: Brazil wood is propagated by cuttings. Use the branches trimmed from stems with poorer plant shape as cutting material, cut them into 5 to 10 cm sections, and insert them upright or flat in a cutting bed with coarse sand or vermiculite as the medium. They can also be rooted by water culture. The specific method is to insert the cut stem sections into water. The cut surface should be smooth; the upper end can be coated with wax to prevent water evaporation, which is especially important in dry seasons. The lower end is immersed 2 to 3 cm in water, the temperature should be above 25°C, and the water and container should be kept clean. Tips with leaves root relatively quickly, and can root and be potted in 3 to 4 weeks; stem sections root relatively slowly, and sometimes need 2 to 3 months to grow new roots and new shoots.
Management techniques: As long as conditions such as temperature are suitable, Brazil wood can grow all year round. In summer, when temperatures are high, appropriate shading is needed, and the indoor temperature in winter must not be lower than 5°C. However, it is best to let it go dormant in winter, with a dormancy temperature of 13°C. If the temperature is too low, yellow-brown spots will appear at the leaf tips and leaf margins. Indoor Brazil wood should be placed in a place with sufficient light. If the light is too weak, the markings on the leaves will turn green, the basal leaves will turn yellow, and it will lose its ornamental value. During cultivation, keep the water clean, and water 1 to 2 times a week. Do not use too much water, to prevent the trunk from rotting. In summer, when temperatures are high, misting can be used to increase air humidity, and water can be sprayed on the leaves to keep them moist.
During the growth period, Brazil wood should be appropriately given foliar topdressing, spraying the leaves with nutrient solution diluted 100 times, once every half month. After Brazil wood has been cultivated for several years, when the plant is too tall or the lower leaves of the stem have fallen off and the plant shape is poor, pruning should be carried out. Repot or change the soil every early spring. If the environment is unsuitable for potted Brazil wood, there may be damage from red spiders, thrips, scale insects, and others. In addition, excessive ventilation, drought, irregular watering, and excessive fertilization can all cause the leaf tips to scorch.
Ornamental value: Brazil wood is a rather popular large indoor potted flower and tree, especially when placed in relatively spacious living rooms, studies, and sitting rooms, where it has an elegant and simple style and carries a southern charm. It is a world-famous new-generation indoor foliage plant with a graceful and neat plant shape.

24. Lucky bamboo

Scientific name green-leaf dragon's blood tree, also called lucky bamboo and green-leaf bamboo banana, is an evergreen upright shrub of the Agavaceae family and the genus Dracaena.
Origin and habits: Native to northern Myanmar, it was introduced to Zhanjiang in the 1980s by the South Subtropical Crops Research Institute of the Chinese Academy of Tropical Agricultural Sciences. Lucky bamboo likes loose, well-drained soil rich in humus and a warm, humid environment.
Morphological characteristics: Evergreen upright shrub, about 1 m tall, with whorled leaves, shaped like willow leaves. The main cultivated varieties include golden-edged lucky bamboo (with broad yellow stripes along the leaf margins) and silver-edged lucky bamboo (with broad white stripes on both sides of the leaves).
Cultivation techniques: Cut current-year and perennial stems into 5 to 10 cm cuttings, and insert them upright or flat into a wet sand bed, keeping the cutting bed temperature at 25 to 30°C. Generally, it takes 2 to 3 months to grow new roots and shoots. If leaf-bearing stem tips are used for cuttings, they can root in 3 to 4 weeks. To promote rooting, the cuttings can be treated with low-concentration indoleacetic acid (IAA), indolebutyric acid (IBA), or rooting powder. In addition, water insertion can also be used. That is, about the lower 1/3 of the cuttings is immersed in water and can also root.
Management techniques: Lucky bamboo can be potted as a single plant or as a combined potted planting with multiple plants arranged in layers. With the development of flower culture and the increasing elegance of people's aesthetic tastes, in recent years, combined potted planting art using different lengths, different numbers of plants, and different layers has become increasingly popular. For example, the "lucky bamboo tower" that sells well on the market is made from three or more groups of lucky bamboo stems of different heights. The method is to cut the tips of lucky bamboo into cuttings of a certain length, and then pot them after rooting by cuttings. Because lucky bamboo roots and survives easily, water culture is currently popular on the market. The key point of its water culture technique is to keep an appropriate amount of water in the flowerpot or vase at all times, and to add water frequently so that it does not dry out. Every month it should be placed on a windowsill to receive 1 to 2 days of sunlight. Every two months, apply a small amount of flower fertilizer to the water. In areas north of the Yellow River, add 10 drops of edible vinegar to the pot every month. The suitable growth temperature for lucky bamboo is above 5°C.
Ornamental value: The lucky bamboo tower made from lucky bamboo has well-arranged layers, a noble and elegant shape, and rises section by section, implying vigor and striving upward. Placed on a desk or coffee table, it adds a touch of spring, gives people a fresh and natural feeling, and encourages integrity, self-restraint, and continuous progress.

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