What to do when Norfolk Island pine leaves wither? Supplement light, fertilize reasonably, and replace alkaline soil

As one of the world's three great ornamental trees, the Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla) has strong benefits: it not only looks beautiful and can relieve eye fatigue, but also has a powerful air-purifying function. But when the Norfolk Island pine's leaves wither, all these good things leave us, and gardeners must be very anxious at this time! So, what should be done when Norfolk Island pine leaves wither? Today the editor will solve this problem for everyone.

I. What to do when Norfolk Island pine leaves wither

What to do when Norfolk Island pine leaves wither: if it is insufficient light, supplement light; if overwatered, loosen the soil and let it dry, or trim the rotted roots and change the potting soil; if nutrients are insufficient, fertilize appropriately; if overfertilized, flush with water to dilute, or trim the rotted roots and change the potting soil; if the soil is alkaline, replace it with slightly acidic soil; if pests appear, spray with pesticide. Specifically, let's read on.

II. Causes of Norfolk Island pine leaf withering and solutions

1. Insufficient light

The Norfolk Island pine dislikes strong light and is fairly shade-tolerant. When grown indoors, many gardeners often only focus on shading it from strong light and overlook that it also needs sufficient light. As a result, in a long-term shaded environment, the Norfolk Island pine's leaves will slowly wither.

Solution: The Norfolk Island pine likes diffused light. Everyone should place the Norfolk Island pine in a semi-shaded spot indoors, letting it receive sufficient light, and after a few days it will slowly recover.

2. Overwatering

The Norfolk Island pine dislikes waterlogging, so we must not water too much. But when growing it indoors, many gardeners just love to water, without considering whether the Norfolk Island pine lacks water at all. As a result, watering is too frequent, causing water to accumulate in the pot. The Norfolk Island pine's roots soak in water, breathing becomes poor, and the leaves naturally wither slowly. Over time, the roots will also rot, and in severe cases the plant will die.

Solution: First use a tool to loosen the soil around the Norfolk Island pine, then place it outside in the sun to let the water evaporate quickly; if the roots have already rotted, we need to take it out of the pot, cut off the rotted roots, then replace the potting soil and replant it.

3. Improper fertilization

Insufficient fertilization: Sufficient nutrients will make the Norfolk Island pine grow with lush branches and leaves. Correspondingly, if fertilization is insufficient, causing the plant to lack nutrients, its leaves will slowly wither. Solution: Fertilize appropriately. Buy fertilizer from a flower shop, and remember not to apply too much at one time.

Overfertilization: Although the Norfolk Island pine likes fertilizer, once too much or too concentrated fertilizer is applied, it will burn the roots. Once the roots are burned and rotted, they naturally cannot absorb nutrients, and although the leaves may still grow, they will also slowly wither. Solution: Flush with water to dilute the fertilizer and let it flow out from the bottom of the pot. For roots that have been burned and rotted, it is also necessary to cut off the rotted roots, change the potting soil, and then replant.

4. Alkaline soil

The Norfolk Island pine likes slightly acidic soil and is not suited to growing in soil with too high an alkali content. Once the soil becomes alkaline, the symptom of Norfolk Island pine leaf withering will appear.

Solution: Very simple, just change the potting soil. Replace it with fertile, well-draining, slightly acidic soil, then replant.

5. Pest damage

Besides the above points, Norfolk Island pine leaf withering may also be caused by pest infestation. Generally this pest is scale insects, which gnaw at the Norfolk Island pine's roots in the soil.

Solution: Everyone should put some pesticide into the soil to kill the scale insects. If the gnawing is not severe, it will recover quickly.

Overall, as a common potted plant, the Norfolk Island pine is not difficult to grow. Even a beginner can grow it well by caring for it according to the requirements. Of course, if withering occurs, everyone need not panic; just solve it according to the methods above. That is all the editor will introduce about Norfolk Island pine leaf withering, hoping it can help everyone.

Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key Points for Spring Flower Planting

Flower Planting Manual (February Edition)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter, and also the cold period of the year second only to January. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition toward spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy into the recovery stage. The main flower tasks this month are as follows: first, continue to do a good job of cold protection and heat preservation for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job of post-bloom pruning and repotting for some woody flowers; third, do the preparatory work for cutting propagation, grafting propagation, and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. In February, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels include: pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), dwarf sunflower, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), tuberous begonia, Carthamus tinctorius, cornflower (Centaurea cyanus), blanket flower (Gaillardia), strawflower (Xerochrysum bracteatum), scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), marigold (Tagetes erecta), peacock chrysanthemum, petunia (Petunia hybrida), California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), phlox (Phlox drummondii), calceolaria (Calceolaria), butterfly flower (Schizanthus), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), pansy (Viola tricolor var. hortensis), etc. By the end of February, those that can be sown outdoors in open ground include: seeds of magnolia species, Michelia species, photinia species, maple species, and Malus species (Rosaceae) that have already cracked and shown white after sand storage treatment, as well as camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), glossy privet (Ligustrum lucidum), Ardisia crenata, firethorn (Pyracantha), palm, goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), lilac (Syringa), etc.; seeds of wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), summer sweetshrub (Calycanthus floridus), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours, and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cutting. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated in February by open-field cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film to retain moisture include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches of cultivars such as 'Gongfen' and 'Lüe'), nandina (Nandina domestica), cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis) (southern regions), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Daphne odora (southern regions), edgeworthia (Edgeworthia chrysantha), pomegranate, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), jasmine (Jasminum officinale), serissa (Serissa japonica), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), Hypericum (Hypericum monogynum), spiraea (Spiraea), Mahonia, boxwood species, Lespedeza bicolor, etc. Branches of lilac and Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora) that have been sand-stored can also be cut at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela florida, deutzia (Deutzia), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), plane tree (Platanus orientalis), grape, fig, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for cutting at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be cut indoors in February include: Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), African violet (leaf cuttings), begonia (Begonia coccinea), Excoecaria cochinchinensis, scarlet sage, geranium (Pelargonium), jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), jade plant (Crassula ovata), jade leaf, Echeveria, graptopetalum, night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), Epiphyllum, Pilea cadierei, mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), Rieger begonia, clerodendrum (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), Schefflera, Aglaonema, Cordyline fruticosa, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora), Japanese thunberg pine, lacebark pine (Pinus bungeana), etc., then plant in the ground and cover with film to retain heat and moisture. Use one-year-old apricot or wild peach seedlings as rootstock, and cut-graft to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. South of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on wintersweet branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use wintersweet seedlings with a diameter of about 0.8 to 1.2 cm as rootstock, and cut-graft to propagate superior wintersweet cultivars such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou', and 'Huti'; by adopting bagging and air inflation to retain moisture, the survival rate is relatively high. Use robust branches of the rose cultivar 'Elizabeth' as rootstock-scion, and cut-graft or cleft-graft superior rose cultivar scions; by adopting the measures of grafting first, then cutting, and then covering with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold, the grafting survival rate can be greatly increased.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chaenomeles speciosa, osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), weigela (Weigela florida), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese incense cedar, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum, hydrangea, Spiraea thunbergii, snow spray spiraea, red maple (Acer palmatum), Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: iris (Iris), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), big-leaf lilyturf, silver-edged lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis), hosta (Hosta), purple hosta, small tarantula, bromeliads, purple-backed oyster plant, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), spider plant species, mother of thousands, canna (Canna), arrowroot (Maranta), Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium podophyllum, bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), clivia (Clivia miniata), aloe (Aloe), etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: nandina, cotton rose, Hypericum, Mahonia, hydrangea, Chaenomeles speciosa, edgeworthia, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, golden sparrow shrub, snow spray spiraea, red-flowered spiraea, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), purple magnolia, four-season osmanthus, bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), white-striped bamboo, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds of nandina, holly species, Ardisia crenata, winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), etc. can be picked. After treatment, carry out sand storage to promote germination, and sow only after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial pollination can be given in order to obtain clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various flower and tree seeds stored in sand, to see whether any seed grains have become moldy. If mold occurs, clean them promptly; if seed grains are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with water spraying to maintain a certain humidity for the sand grains and seeds; if a small number of seed grains have already cracked and shown white, sow them in a relatively short time. Once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle, affecting the seed emergence rate. Large seeds stored in sand can be dibbled, while small seeds can be drilled or row-sown; after sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or adding plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    2. Transplanting and setting out. In February, in southern regions the soil does not freeze and temperatures are relatively high, so herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and set out include: dianthus species, snapdragon, hollyhock (Alcea rosea), silver-edged holly, daisy (Bellis perennis), pot marigold, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can all be planted out. Among the deciduous types, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud (Cercis chinensis), Malus species, ginkgo, sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), maple species, wisteria, crape myrtle, wintersweet, plum blossom (carry out before budding and leafing), magnolia species, soapberry, silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden (Tilia), Chinese tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow (Triadica sebifera), spiraea, trident maple shrub, deutzia, Chinese scholar tree (Sophora japonica), dragon-claw scholar tree, dwarf flowering cherry, elm-leaved spirea, Hypericum, weeping willow, golden weeping willow, cotton rose, smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria), persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia species, camphor tree, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, French holly, Machilus, purple nanmu, etc. can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; osmanthus, glossy privet, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuka'), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), black pine, etc., when planting, should be given moderate pruning.

    1. Cold protection. In February the weather is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (or tunnel) care, potted ornamental plants have consumed relatively more nutrients in their bodies, and the plants' resistance has greatly decreased, so we should continue to carefully do a good job of moisture retention and cold protection. If the greenhouse or plastic tunnel has heating facilities, continue to provide heating, and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, continue to hang them; when encountering sudden temperature drops after snow, even more so, do not take it lightly.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities, continue to do a good job of ventilation and air exchange. Especially by the end of February, the ventilation and air exchange time can be extended during the period of the day with the highest temperature. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For cold-sensitive flowers grown in small quantities at home, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, peacock arrowroot, Syngonium podophyllum, iron cross begonia, croton (Codiaeum variegatum), pink lady arrowhead, etc., in particularly cold weather, you can add a plastic bag over them at night, or place them in the bathroom and turn on a heating appliance such as a "bath heater" to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. In February, due to relatively low temperatures, for the vast majority of potted flowers, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plant. For relatively dry indoor spaces, frequently spray water and mist on the plant leaves to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color and luster and flower buds to stop growing; in severe cases leaves dry, shrink, and wrinkle, and flower buds shrink and fall off, as may occur with camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), azalea (Rhododendron), plum blossom, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), winter cherry, etc., all of which may show bud drop and fruit drop, or even death. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should basically match the indoor or tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria (Pericallis cruenta), primrose (Primula malacoides), kalanchoe, camellia, sasanqua camellia, Belgian azalea, pot marigold, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as firethorn, nandina, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, Ardisia crenata, four-season orange, winter cherry, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds, and fruits. Only in this way can their leaves be emerald green, flower buds rapidly expand, and fruits be brightly colored. Especially for tree peonies, plum blossoms, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. placed in plastic tunnels for forcing, water must also be sprayed on the branches 1 to 2 times daily to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so they can bloom as scheduled. For purchased large-flowered Cymbidium orchids cultivated in greenhouses or plastic tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in their original greenhouse or plastic tunnel differ greatly from those at home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often appear shriveled and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., it must be ensured that the potting soil is moist, and the plant should be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times daily; otherwise, the plant may very likely die.

    Although in February most potted flowers do not need much water, inspection should be strengthened, especially during several consecutive days of sustained temperature rise, and supplementary watering and spraying should be promptly strengthened.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, timely supplementary watering should be given. Especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, around noon on clear days, appropriate leaf spraying should also be given to prevent post-leaf shriveling and shedding, which would affect spring recovery growth.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, continue to bury base fertilizer for most ground-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. They can be applied by digging ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant root system and then covering with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (or plastic tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua camellia, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Belgian azalea, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), Daphne odora, plum blossom, European daffodil, hyacinth, tulip, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), Epiphyllum, rainbow bromeliad, Tillandsia, Guzmania, clivia, etc., continue to apply low-concentration monopotassium phosphate as a top dressing, to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and stump bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, etc., because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

    4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted plum blossom, wintersweet, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, severe renewal pruning can be carried out. For branches that have flowered, except for retaining only 2 to 3 buds at the base, all the rest should be cut off, promoting more new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For stump bonsai types mainly pruned for shape, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry, banyan (Ficus microcarpa), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Mongolian oak, Chinese fringe tree, water willow, Elaeagnus pungens, holly grape (Mahonia fortunei), holly, serissa, Chinese juniper, juniper, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repotting can be given at the same time as pruning.

    5. Repotting. From late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is resuming growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted by late February include: Chinese hibiscus, geranium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, two-colored jasmine, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, sword fern, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), begonia (Begonia coccinea), wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens), painted-leaf begonia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, sago palm (Cycas revoluta), clivia, Haworthia, aloe, Christmas cactus, Epiphyllum, sedum (Sedum), jade plant, jade leaf, kalanchoe, amaryllis, asparagus fern, spider plant, Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, Rohdea japonica, bird of paradise, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, coral flower, clerodendrum, camellia, sasanqua camellia, Chaenomeles speciosa, hydrangea, nandina, croton, Syngonium podophyllum, arrowroot, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, bitter orange, kumquat, Buddha's hand, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses, and gray mold appearing on primrose leaves, etc., at the early stage of disease, choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution for spraying, once every 10 days, and 2 to 3 consecutive sprays are enough.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted cyclamen in plastic tunnels, 50% iprodione wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution can be used for spraying.

For potted Belgian azaleas in plastic tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao" on the leaves, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer sprayed on the plant is difficult to absorb; on the contrary, it easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants, and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as bitter orange and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush; when there are many insects, 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution can be sprayed to kill them. After aphids, scale insects, and ants are killed, sooty mold will also be eliminated accordingly.

For insect bodies such as pink tamarisk scale, white peach scale, oystershell scale, black brown round scale, etc. appearing on potted flower plants in plastic tunnels, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or sprayed with 2.5% cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% isofenphos-methyl granules in the flowerpot.

Continue to clear away dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted flower plants, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that in the growing season it can be diluted and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc.; after about 2 months spread it out to dry, and after fully drying, pack it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried cake fertilizer in granular powder form can be scattered in flowerpots as a top dressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, large-flowered Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and other potted flower types, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer, especially when growing flowers on a balcony: it is convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used for mixing potting soil.

    8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, continue to turn and cultivate garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, then dig ditches and make beds for seedling raising or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include: Chinese incense cedar, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese juniper, Chinese arborvitae, true juniper, ginkgo, serissa, creeping juniper (Juniperus procumbens), Japanese white pine, Huangshan pine (Pinus taiwanensis), black pine, thousand-head red pine, water willow, golden sparrow shrub, small golden plum, wintersweet, Chaenomeles speciosa, crape myrtle, banyan, Chinese elm, trident maple, etc.

Continue to re-wire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If plants are found to have sunken binding constriction marks, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, then replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing, cracking, and breaking apart, causing unnecessary losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March Edition)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the area in front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain degree, then you can plant some flower species that relatively like light and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), ginkgo, osmanthus, purple magnolia, Michelia, Yulan magnolia (Magnolia × soulangeana), papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, persimmon, cotton rose, Chinese tulip tree, plum blossom, rose (Rosa chinensis), fig, camellia, crape myrtle, tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), pomegranate, wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, nandina, red maple, redbud, rose of Sharon, Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, then choose some flower and tree species suited to shady and damp conditions, such as palm, photinia, Aucuba japonica, French holly, glossy privet, Mahonia bealei, southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), camphor tree, dragon juniper, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Buddhist pine, Fatsia japonica, Chinese juniper, deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara), wintersweet, banana (Musa basjoo), clustered bamboo, etc. Regardless of how the light is in your courtyard and whether it is dry or wet, when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees, pay attention to the following points: first, the minimum temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid cold damage; second, they should be adapted to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid incompatibility; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many: a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to hinder the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-specimen plants, so as to achieve greening and beautification effects early; for example, ginkgo, Japanese fir (Abies firma), osmanthus, plum blossom, Buddhist pine, etc. should be no less than 2 m in height; eighth, leave some vacant land for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many herbaceous flower and groundcover plant species suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, scarlet sage, cockscomb (Celosia cristata), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), cockscomb, marigold, hollyhock, garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina), lupine (Lupinus), daisy, pot marigold, corn poppy (Papaver rhoeas), autumn zephyr lily, dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), etc. Relatively shade-tolerant herbaceous flower and groundcover plant species include: dwarf lilyturf, big-leaf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, lycoris (Lycoris radiata), Rohdea japonica, Moses-in-the-cradle, Aspidistra elatior, iris, acorus (Acorus calamus), saxifrage (Saxifraga stolonifera), etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potted cultivation in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, you can choose to plant some flower species requiring relatively meticulous management, such as plum blossom, Aglaia odorata, camellia, poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), wintersweet, Belgian azalea, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian ironwood (Caesalpinia ferrea), money tree (Pachira aquatica), king coconut (Cocos nucifera), Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, jasmine, Ardisia crenata, bromeliads, money tree (Zamioculcas zamiifolia), Fagraea ceilanica (commonly known as African jasmine), cinnamon species (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), primrose, large-flowered Cymbidium, anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum), Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, bird of paradise, Chinese hibiscus, clivia, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), nerve plant (Fittonia), croton, dwarf umbrella tree, Syngonium podophyllum, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, calceolaria, fish-tail palm (Caryota), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), bottle palm (Hyophorbe lagenicaulis), etc. For courtyards with relatively poorer conditions, you can grow some types requiring relatively extensive management, such as nandina, sago palm, palm grass (Rhapis excelsa), chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, amaryllis, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, broom, serissa, Chaenomeles speciosa, four-season osmanthus, cacti, asparagus fern, rubber tree, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Schefflera, Pilea cadierei, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, bougainvillea, holly, camellia, sasanqua camellia, red azalea, banyan, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: crape myrtle, redbud, wintersweet, summer sweetshrub, red maple, Chinese tulip tree. For the latter five, before sowing the seeds must be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown for seedling propagation after sand storage to promote germination include: sago palm, ginkgo, bamboo pine, Buddhist pine, Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), purple magnolia, Michelia species, osmanthus, horse chestnut, nandina, holly species, pomegranate, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: garden balsam, marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia (Zinnia elegans), scarlet sage, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, four-season primrose, mallow species, four-o'clock flower (Mirabilis jalapa), bird of paradise, clivia, asparagus fern, etc. Some cold-intolerant species should be sown inside plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cutting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: Chinese hibiscus, geranium, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, purslane tree (Portulacaria afra), graptopetalum, Echeveria, hydrangea, nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, silver bud willow, Hypericum, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, fig, Fatsia japonica, gardenia, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Chinese weeping cypress, Daphne odora, firethorn, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should be taken in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: use 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, and side-graft to propagate Japanese white pine, Osaka pine, black pine, etc.; use 1- to 2-year-old white magnolia or purple magnolia seedlings as rootstock, and cut-graft to propagate Michelia and Yulan magnolia, etc.; use 1-year-old peach or apricot seedlings as rootstock, and cut-graft to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; use finger-thick seedling wintersweet as rootstock, and when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select superior cultivar wintersweet scion branches, carry out cut grafting and give bagging to retain moisture; the survival rate is relatively high; use three-angled cactus (Hylocereus undatus) as rootstock, and graft to propagate Christmas cactus and various cactus ball types; this is suitable in plastic tunnels. In addition, camellia, cherry blossom, osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be grafted in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: camellia, sasanqua camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, red maple, Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, upright cypress, Michelia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball viburnum, gardenia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchid species, bleeding heart, Aspidistra elatior, asparagus fern, sago palm, nandina, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snake plant (Sansevieria), purple triangular wood sorrel, large-flowered canna, shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet), dahlia, bird of paradise, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and setting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Yulan magnolia, Chinese tulip tree, red maple, etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants sprout and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; for wintersweet, crape myrtle, redbud, rose of Sharon, horse chestnut, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc., even after sprouting it does not matter, but appropriate pruning is also required. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, when transplanting, carry a good and sufficient root ball; generally the root ball diameter should be greater than 6 times the trunk diameter.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertilizer in winter, before they sprout, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of the root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon manure, etc., or multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossom, wintersweet, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning off dead branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, and leggy flowering branches, for one-year-old branches, cut them off at 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branch, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through severe renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, favoring flowering the following year. For camellia, sasanqua camellia, etc., after flowering prune off branches that ruin the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, rose of Sharon, osmanthus, etc., which form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve ventilation and light conditions.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases that year; for some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as rose, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, grape, Malus halliana, etc., after leaf expansion promptly spray Bordeaux mixture, etc., which can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and set out in March include: dianthus, snapdragon, pot marigold, daisy, hollyhock, mallow, silver-edged lilyturf, autumn zephyr lily, Chinese lilyturf, iris, Reineckea carnea, ribbon grass, dwarf lilyturf, red wood sorrel, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer as a top dressing, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted wintersweet, plum blossom, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, firethorn, Japanese white pine, nandina, Chinese elm, trident maple, oak, white ash, etc. placed outdoors, repot before they sprout and leaf out, replacing the soil with loose, fertile, fresh potting soil rich in organic matter, to lay a foundation for spring and summer growth. For Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, rose, jasmine, Chinese hibiscus, bird of paradise, sago palm, poinsettia, sasanqua camellia, camellia, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, clivia, dwarf umbrella tree, Syngonium podophyllum, arrowroot, etc. placed indoors, repot before moving them out.

(2) Hardening. In regions north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor care in March, and both cold protection and ventilation must be emphasized. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, in early and mid-March it is still necessary to continue cold protection and heat preservation work. In late March, you can open the doors and windows of the room during the day for ventilation and air exchange, and close them at night, so that Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, jasmine, Chinese hibiscus, poinsettia, Monstera deliciosa, dwarf umbrella tree, rubber tree, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can gradually undergo hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding premature sprouting that affects that year's growth and normal flowering. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, this month still requires continued heat preservation and cold protection work, and must not be taken lightly.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Chinese hibiscus, fuchsia, clerodendrum, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia alba, sago palm, rubber tree, fish-tail palm, areca palm, croton, asparagus fern, begonia species, combine repotting with necessary pruning, including cutting off diseased and insect-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches, and some yellowed leaves, etc. For trident maple, Buddhist pine, true cypress, Huangshan pine, black pine, Chinese elm, white ash, oak, red bayberry, etc., which are mainly appreciated for their tree stumps, wiring and pruning can also be carried out in March before sprouting, to further perfect their shapes. For plum blossom, wintersweet, rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, etc., severe renewal pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, and it is also impossible for all to live on the first floor with a relatively good small flower-growing environment. More often, people grow some relatively stress-tolerant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting include one category of relatively drought-tolerant plant species. Their body surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or the plant body is fleshy and thick and contains relatively more sap, or the leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like shapes with very little transpiration and water consumption, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and therefore are very drought-tolerant, such as sago palm, cacti (bunny ears cactus, blue columnar cactus, jade plant, golden barrel cactus, Mexican fencepost cactus, bishop's cap cactus, rat-tail cactus, coral tree), purslane tree, jade plant, graptopetalum, Echeveria, living stones (Lithops), night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, leaf cactus, kalanchoe, etc. Also wintersweet, winter jasmine, lycoris, calla lily, Aglaonema, spider plant, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, so they are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is also another category of flower species that is relatively tolerant of direct sunlight and dry hot winds, can accept full sunlight, and can withstand short periods of unusually high temperatures, and is also suitable for balcony potted cultivation (especially on high-floor balconies), such as pomegranate, rose, banyan, clivia, small-leaf privet, agave (Agave), amaryllis, Japanese barberry, oak, Chinese elm, trident maple, water willow, black pine, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, holly grape, holly, Vitex negundo, winged euonymus, longevity peach, sun plant (Portulaca grandiflora), etc. In addition, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Japanese white pine, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra elatior, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, lemon, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, camellia, Schefflera, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can also be used as balcony potted plants on slightly lower floors, but water and shading management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as scarlet sage, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, marigold, garden balsam, dwarf petunia, etc., can be sown and raised at this time in shallow pots.

If a small amount of asparagus fern or clivia seeds is collected, after washing them clean, sow them indoors first, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, move them to the outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, jade plant, graptopetalum, Echeveria, purslane tree, coral tree, jade plant, etc. can be cut indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flowerpot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as the cutting medium, and in a relatively good light location beside an indoor windowsill, propagate by cuttings gardenia, fuchsia, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, Buddhist pine, rose pomegranate, Chaenomeles speciosa, nandina, Daphne odora, Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot mouth must be covered well with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, when grafting Japanese white pine, black pine, plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, wintersweet, etc., bagging to retain moisture must be carried out; otherwise it is not easy to survive.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potting are still indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation, and light exposure, plants that need repotting should be repotted in a timely manner. For relatively stress-tolerant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it is easy to cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which not only affects the plant's normal growth that year, but in severe cases causes plant death. Measures can be taken such as building temporary shelters on site or moving them indoors or into tunnels for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For tree stumps such as wintersweet, holly grape, holly, black pine, Japanese white pine, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese elm, Japanese barberry, water willow, small-leaf privet, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil can be replaced; for bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist as the standard, water once every 3 to 5 days, and give appropriate spraying. For plum blossom, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, wintersweet, longevity peach, camellia, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be carried out after flowering to promote maintaining a good plant shape, and carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plant, cutting off branches and leaves infected by pests and diseases and destroying them; for dry and withered cut surfaces on tree stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture, etc. for anti-corrosion treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board (prefabricated reinforced concrete) supported above it, using the humidity produced by evaporation from the pool. In summer, place some flowers that relatively like humid air on it, such as orchid species, Monstera deliciosa, Green Giant, Little Angel, Ardisia crenata, nandina, etc. The stored water is relatively ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out, you can also first set up stepped racks on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer. Once potted flowers are moved out and encounter too intense sunlight, shade measures can quickly be put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare potting soil for repotting, and stock enough various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Edition)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, warm and humid airflows from the south become stronger and stronger, and temperatures rise noticeably. After Qingming, although there are occasional influences of cold air moving south, for potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River they can no longer pose a threat; only in areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River is there still the danger of snow and frost. By after Guyu, areas south of the Yangtze-Huai region have ended late frost, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for care; while in the Huaibei region, potted flowers can only be moved out after late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, flower tasks include the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include Cleome hassleriana, Mirabilis jalapa, Celosia argentea, Amaranthus tricolor, Portulaca grandiflora, Dahlia pinnata, Gomphrena globosa, Salvia splendens, Impatiens balsamina, Ipomoea nil, Quamoclit coccinea, Quamoclit pennata, Nicotiana tabacum, Petunia hybrida, Callistephus chinensis, Coreopsis grandiflora, Coreopsis tinctoria, Tagetes erecta, Chrysanthemum carinatum, Zinnia elegans, Asparagus setaceus, Primula obconica, Tropaeolum majus, Kochia scoparia, Hibiscus coccineus, Euphorbia heterophylla, Ocimum basilicum, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Cosmos bipinnatus, Adenophora stricta, Mimosa pudica, etc. Magnoliaceae flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in April after sand stratification include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia zenii, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia sprengeri, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia parapetalum, Manglietia fordiana, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia ruyuanensis, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia figo, Michelia multiflora, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia hedyosperma, Liriodendron chinense, Liriodendron chinense hybrid, Liriodendron tulipifera, etc.; other ornamental trees and shrubs that can be

sown in April include: Abies firma, Sciadopitys verticillata, Araucaria cunninghamii, Pseudolarix amabilis, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Albizia julibrissin, Taxus chinensis, Pittosporum tobira, Sapium sebiferum, Koelreuteria bipinnata, Sapindus mukorossi, Liquidambar formosana, Acer species, Ormosia henryi, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Exochorda racemosa, Lycium chinense, Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Trachycarpus fortunei, etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown immediately after harvest in April include: Gerbera jamesonii, Asparagus setaceus, Primula malacoides, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Fatsia japonica, and Solanum mammosum, among others. For Fatsia japonica, the blackened, whitish-tinged and softened fruits can be picked at the end of April, rubbed and washed to extract the seeds, which are then sown on a fertile seedbed; alternatively, the seeds can first be stratified in sand until they crack and show white, and then sown, covered with grass to retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, once about 70% of the seeds have germinated, the grass covering should be promptly removed, and a shade frame should be set up; for cultivating Solanum mammosum, the golden-yellow fruits can be peeled, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil; after 10 days the seeds will germinate and emerge, and when the seedlings have grown 6 to 8 true leaves and reached a height of 15 cm, they can be transplanted, either potted for fruit display or planted in the ground as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be grafted in April include: Chimonanthus praecox, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Prunus persica 'Densa', Robinia hispida, and Echinocactus and Schlumbergera, etc.

    3. Division

Greenhouse foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: Spathiphyllum kochii, Sansevieria trifasciata, Aspidistra elatior, ferns, Rhapis excelsa, Chlorophytum comosum, Agave americana, Aglaonema commutatum, Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema modestum, Maranta species, Aloe vera, Peperomia species, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, etc. Flowering plants that can be divided include: Clivia miniata, Chlorophytum capense, Hosta plantaginea, Hemerocallis fulva, Canna indica, Calathea species, Hippeastrum, Anthurium, Iris, Cymbidium, etc.; trees and shrubs that can be divided include: Dahlia pinnata, Hibiscus syriacus, Michelia figo, Osmanthus fragrans, Syringa oblata, Nerium oleander, Gardenia jasminoides, Weigela florida, Forsythia suspensa, Spiraea, Peony, Herbaceous peony, Canna, etc. In addition, water lilies and lotus can also be divided at this time.

    4. Cuttings

For most easily rooted flowering trees and shrubs, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, cutting propagation can be carried out in April; the main species include: Buxus species, Mahonia species, Nandina domestica, Cupressus species, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Spiraea, Liriodendron chinense, Spiraea thunbergii, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that were not repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or not too much old soil is removed and roots are not overly pruned during repotting, repotting can be done in April. However, it should be pointed out that for deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, if the new shoots are too long, especially for plum blossoms (Prunus mume), repotting must absolutely not be done after the leaves have unfolded.

    2. April is the best time for transplanting open-ground flowering trees and shrubs. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfolded or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with a soil ball in April; for evergreen types such as Cinnamomum camphora, Magnolia grandiflora, Michelia species, and Michelia alba, a portion of the branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce the transpiration of the canopy; for deciduous types, it is best to transplant them before they leaf out, such as Magnolia denudata, Aesculus chinensis, Tilia species, Malus species, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, ornamental peaches, Prunus mume, apricots, etc.; generally, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowering trees and shrubs should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the transplanted plant, so that under the condition of not damaging the soil ball, the transplanted plant will have no worries.

III. Bonsai Shaping

April is one of the best periods for bonsai shaping. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice shaping are those with strong adaptability, whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Serissa japonica, Geum japonicum, Sabina chinensis, Euonymus alatus var. pendulus, Lagerstroemia indica, Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Plumosa', Chamaecyparis obtusa, Ficus microcarpa, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Ulmus parvifolia, Jasminum nudiflorum, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Ginkgo biloba, Pinus thunbergii, Sabina chinensis, etc. Other species suitable for shaping in April include Crataegus cuneata, Pinus parviflora, Pinus hwangshanensis, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Pyracantha fortuneana, Syzygium buxifolium, Fraxinus chinensis, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma racemosum, Cephalotaxus sinensis, Diospyros cathayensis, Malus halliana, Carmona retusa, Chaenomeles sinensis, Elaeagnus pungens, Ilex cornuta, Pseudolarix amabilis, Damnacanthus indicus, etc.

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, metal or non-metal wire should be used promptly for continuous wiring, training and correction, so that they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the maintenance of Pinus parviflora bonsai, special attention should be paid this month to the following three aspects: first, timely bud removal; when the winter buds sprout and granular needle-leaf primordia appear on them, 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length can be removed to promote shorter and denser new shoots; second, remove female and male cones; when needle fascicle buds and female and male cones can be distinguished on new shoots, promptly remove all female cones at the tips of new shoots and male cones at the bases of new shoots to reduce nutrient consumption during reproductive growth; third, control watering; from the beginning of new shoot elongation, watering should be strictly controlled, watering only when dry, substituting spraying for watering, to ensure that the newly grown needles are short and clustered and the branch pads remain flat and well-formed.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Rhododendron, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Daphne odora, Fortunella margarita, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Solanum pseudocapsicum, Schlumbergera, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium hybridum, Cymbidium sinense, Phaius tankervilleae, etc., because flowering or fruiting has consumed a large amount of nutrients, when they resume growth after warm spring, a nitrogen-based fertilizer should be applied as a top dressing, such as thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote their growth; for potted flowers about to bloom, such as Rosa chinensis, Cercis chinensis, Punica granatum, Cymbidium ensifolium, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Michelia alba, etc., top dressing should likewise be given, which can be potassium dihydrogen phosphate, etc., with the concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For open-ground Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia species, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Malus species, etc., after flowering, top dressing should also be applied in time to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping and Maintenance

Pachira aquatica can be braided in April. Dig up seedlings of Pachira aquatica that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose part of their moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7; after braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, and then select a suitable pot for planting; Pachira aquatica has extremely strong vitality; even if it cannot be processed into a braid or planted in time, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjusting Plant Shape and Preventing Diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and withered stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management; for flower species prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Fruit-Ornamental Potted Plants

For potted fruit-ornamental flowering trees and shrubs that bloom in April, such as Chaenomeles sinensis, Ginkgo biloba, Pyracantha fortuneana, Aucuba chinensis, Malus halliana, etc., especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period, attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization, so that they can set fruit normally, and do not miss the good opportunity.

    5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management; apart from those with intermittent misting equipment, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times daily, always keeping the cutting medium moist, creating the best environment for their callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual: Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Edition)

Climate characteristics of May: temperatures continue to rise, rainfall gradually increases from south to north in our country, and after each rainfall, the temperature rises noticeably; there is much continuous spring rain, and after the spring rain ends at Xiaoman, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent entry into summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for planting and caring for flowers, and it plays an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. May flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers and flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown immediately after harvest in May mainly include: Primula obconica, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia bealei, Eriobotrya japonica, etc. When sowing and raising seedlings in May, attention should be paid to the following three points: first, keep the sowing seedbed moist, neither waterlogged nor excessively dry and dehydrated; second, cover the sowing seedbed with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes between dryness and wetness that cause seeds to "regress"; third, after emergence, remove the grass covering in several stages and promptly set up a shade frame to avoid scorching the seedlings.

For Osmanthus fragrans, mature blue-black fruits can be picked at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the pulp, rinsed clean, and then stored in moist clean fine sand until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and the radicle tip is exposed can they be sown in the ground. During storage, care should be taken to prevent rodents from stealing them and to keep the sand moist.

For sowing Eriobotrya japonica, the soil covering should not be too deep, generally not exceeding 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttings

Flower species suitable for cutting propagation in May include: Salvia splendens (pink, purple, white), Gomphrena globosa (white), Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Nemesia strumosa, Impatiens holstii, Coleus blumei, Begonia species, Cosmos sulphureus, Rosa chinensis, Rhododendron, Dahlia pinnata, Fuchsia hybrida, Plectranthus scutellarioides, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Pelargonium hortorum, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Erythrina variegata, Tropaeolum majus, Jasminum multiflorum, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Acalypha wilkesiana, Deutzia scabra, Hydrangea macrophylla, Kerria japonica, Punica granatum, Hibiscus syriacus, Buddleja lindleyana, Campsis grandiflora, Gardenia jasminoides, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epipremnum pinnatum, Epiphyllum hybridum, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum paraguayense, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia biondii, Chaenomeles speciosa, Cyperus alternifolius, Lantana camara, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Aglaonema modestum, Cordyline fruticosa, Epipremnum aureum, Schefflera octophylla, Nerium species, Pyracantha fortuneana, Mahonia, and Bambusa ventricosa with aerial roots, etc.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old seedling or cutting plants of Magnolia liliiflora for side grafting to propagate Michelia alba and Michelia figo; use 1- to 2-year-old seedling plants of Acer palmatum for bud grafting to propagate Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum 'Dissectum', and Acer palmatum 'Sessilifolium'; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old cutting plants of Rhododendron pulchrum for cleft grafting to propagate Rhododendron hybridum; use Rosa multiflora as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of Rosa chinensis; use Artemisia annua as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior varieties of chrysanthemum; use 2-year-old seedling Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock; graft superior varieties of Chimonanthus praecox by softwood grafting, and potted rootstocks can also be used for side grafting. In addition, Opuntia and Hylocereus undatus can be used as rootstocks for grafting to propagate Schlumbergera.

    4. Layering

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by air layering in May include: Michelia alba, Ficus elastica, Aglaia odorata, Rhododendron hybridum, Camellia japonica, Codiaeum variegatum, Michelia figo, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc.; those that can be propagated by ground layering include: Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Rosa chinensis, Gardenia jasminoides, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Osmanthus fragrans, Campsis grandiflora, etc.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, most species must be potted and established in May; after 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, they can bloom on schedule by late September and early October, thereby creating a joyful, lively, and colorful holiday atmosphere. The main species include: Salvia splendens (pink, white, purple), Gomphrena globosa (white), Celosia argentea, Zinnia elegans, Cosmos sulphureus, Callistephus chinensis, Kochia scoparia, Tagetes erecta, Nemesia strumosa, Asparagus setaceus, Impatiens holstii, Coleus blumei, Begonia species, etc.

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and beginning of May, when Magnolia denudata has finished flowering and is just about to sprout and unfold leaves, transplanting gives the highest survival rate. Some flowering trees and shrubs that sprout later and are easy to transplant successfully can also be transplanted and established with a soil ball in early May, such as Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Cercis chinensis, Punica granatum, Albizia julibrissin, etc.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

Because temperatures continue to rise, the water demand of potted ornamental plants will gradually increase; besides combining root watering with foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of irrigation and spraying water. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a water tank or small vat, and then an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with the concentration kept between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flowers suitable for acidic water mainly include: Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Rhododendron, Rhododendron simsii, Gardenia jasminoides, Daphne odora, Clivia miniata, Chrysanthemum, Malus species, Camellia chekiangoleosa, etc.; foliage types include: Cycas revoluta, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Ficus elastica, ferns, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Codiaeum variegatum, Fittonia verschaffeltii (red/green), Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta, Bromeliaceae, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Schefflera octophylla, etc.; fruit-ornamental types include: Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Pyracantha fortuneana, Fortunella margarita, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus limon, Nandina domestica, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Ardisia crenata, etc.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. For Michelia alba that has just been moved out of the greenhouse, special care must be taken when pruning back, because its branch pith is loose and the cut surface easily loses water and dries out and extends downward; therefore, the cut should be made 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained, and must never be too close to the bud eye. For potted Rosa chinensis, pruning after flowering should moderately lower the height by 10 to 20 cm, so that the bud eyes located in the middle of the branches can develop flower buds.

(2) Bud removal. For potted Chimonanthus praecox plants, attention should also be paid to the location of bud removal; generally it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud, otherwise the wound will dry out and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Rosa chinensis potted in the current year, the terminal bud should be removed in time to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade shed or tree shade; species include: Monstera deliciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Maranta, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Fittonia verschaffeltii (red/green), Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Calathea roseopicta, Livistona chinensis, Syngonium podophyllum, orchids, Rhododendron, Strelitzia reginae, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, etc.; for light-loving flowering trees and shrubs, full light must be given, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Cycas revoluta, Rosa chinensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, etc.; bonsai plants such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Geum japonicum, Xylosma racemosum, Serissa japonica, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus armandii, etc. require full light; while Podocarpus macrophyllus, Damnacanthus indicus, Syzygium buxifolium, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Pinus parviflora, etc. can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For Camellia japonica, Rhododendron, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, Gardenia jasminoides, Chimonanthus praecox, Rosa chinensis, Daphne odora, Clivia miniata, orchids, Malus species, etc., after flowering, remove the spent flowers and withered stems respectively, and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen with phosphorus as supplement, once every half month, to restore their vegetative growth while laying a foundation for redeveloping flower buds; for foliage-oriented species such as Ficus elastica, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Fittonia verschaffeltii (red/green), Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Aspidistra elatior, ferns, etc., apply a thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer liquid once every half month; for foliage plants with colored spots and patterns, such as Sansevieria trifasciata 'Laurentii', Vriesea splendens, Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Codiaeum variegatum, Caladium bicolor, Syngonium podophyllum 'Albolineatum', Calathea roseopicta, etc., a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be applied as foliar top dressing, which can make their leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Rosa chinensis, Rosa multiflora, Rosa rugosa, etc., attention should be paid to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot disease, and for defoliating pests that appear, pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them; for citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, defoliating pests that commonly appear on Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Fortunella margarita, Fortunella hindsii, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus limon, Ruta graveolens, etc., pesticides should be sprayed early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

Ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be shaped in May include: Prunus mume, Gardenia jasminoides var. radicans, Gardenia jasminoides, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Serissa japonica, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Geum japonicum, Cephalotaxus sinensis, Ginkgo biloba, etc. It is worth noting that when shaping, one must be careful and cautious, trying not to injure the bark and structure of the branches and trunks, otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Edition)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huaihe River basin enters the plum rain season; this year the plum rain began on June 12 and ended on July 7. At this time, the evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in this region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rain in the year, often with prolonged continuous rainfall. For some flowers and most bonsai that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant, maintenance should be especially careful, so as to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light, disrupting the shape or affecting the normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. June flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in June include: Primula malacoides, lotus seeds, Cycas revoluta, Eriobotrya japonica, Chimonanthus praecox, etc. For Chimonanthus praecox, when the urn-shaped fruit capsule on the mother tree turns from green to yellow, then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked; promptly peel open the fruit capsule, release the seeds, first soak them in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds absorb enough water and swell, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination; after about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white, and at this time sow them in furrows; the soil covering thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm, cover with rice straw to retain moisture, and after most seeds' cotyledons emerge from the soil, remove the covering in 2 to 3 stages and promptly set up a shade frame.

    2. Cuttings

In summer, temperatures are high and humidity is high, and the cambium in the branches of flowering trees and shrubs is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation. There are two main categories of flowering trees and shrubs suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category consists of species that are difficult to root or root slowly with hardwood cuttings, such as Osmanthus fragrans, Camellia japonica, Michelia figo, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Syringa oblata, Magnolia liliiflora, Chaenomeles speciosa, Viburnum macrocephalum var. sterile, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum odoratissimum, Erythrina variegata, Rhododendron hybridum, Bambusa ventricosa (with aerial roots), Ficus elastica, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Taxodium ascendens, Taxodium distichum, etc.; the other category consists of species that root relatively easily, such as Buxus species, Rosa chinensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum officinale, Serissa japonica, Punica granatum, Hibiscus syriacus, Caragana sinica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Lantana camara, Kerria japonica, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus limon, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nandina domestica, Campsis grandiflora, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Lonicera japonica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Cordyline fruticosa, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum patulum, Salix babylonica var. matsudana f. pendula, Salix babylonica var. matsudana f. tortuosa, Ficus microcarpa, Dracaena fragrans, Ardisia crenata, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Codiaeum variegatum, Deutzia scabra, Philadelphus incanus, Lagerstroemia indica, Weigela florida, Weigela coraeensis, Spiraea cantoniensis, Aucuba species, Schefflera species, Mahonia species, Fatsia japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hydrangea macrophylla, Euphorbia pulcherrima, etc. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as Ipomoea cairica, Parthenocissus species, Tropaeolum majus, Torenia fournieri, Salvia coccinea, Heliotropium arborescens, Cyperus alternifolius, Pelargonium hortorum, Coleus blumei, Begonia species, Viola tricolor, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Cosmos sulphureus, etc.

Taking fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings of Camellia japonica and Osmanthus fragrans as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the young shoots of Osmanthus fragrans and Camellia japonica are semi-lignified; the medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite; the cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip; the lower cut end is dipped for 10 seconds in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthaleneacetic acid solution, then inserted into the seedbed after brief drying; the insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with a plant spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm; after watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the seedbed, then cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, build a double-layer shade frame for shading, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%; generally after one month the cuttings will root in large numbers.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: use potted seedling Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock to graft superior varieties of Chimonanthus praecox; use potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock to graft Michelia alba, Michelia figo, etc. Bud grafting: use Rosa multiflora seedlings as rootstock to propagate superior Rosa chinensis varieties; use 1-year-old seedling plants of apricot, peach, plum, etc. as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate Prunus persica 'Densa', Prunus persica 'Duplex', Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, Prunus persica 'Atropurpurea', Prunus japonica, Prunus mume, Prunus triloba, etc.; use 1- to 2-year-old Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum 'Dissectum', Acer palmatum 'Sanguineum', etc. Branch grafting: use Camellia oleifera, Camellia chekiangoleosa, or single-petaled seedling Camellia japonica as rootstock for branch grafting Camellia japonica and Camellia sasanqua; use Rhododendron pulchrum 'Zi Hudie' and 'Yu Hudie' as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting Rhododendron hybridum or Rhododendron obtusum.

    4. Layering

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering in June include: Rhododendron, Lonicera japonica, Hydrangea macrophylla, Viburnum macrocephalum var. sterile, Viburnum macrocephalum, Weigela florida, Nerium oleander, Osmanthus fragrans, Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Syringa oblata, Gardenia jasminoides, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, etc.

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: Nephrolepis cordifolia, Zantedeschia aethiopica (after flowering), Bambusa ventricosa, Cyperus alternifolius, Tradescantia spathacea, Bromeliaceae, Haworthia, Aspidistra elatior, Chlorophytum comosum, Acorus species, Liriope spicata var. variegata, etc.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting/Establishing

    1. Seed Collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: Dianthus chinensis, Centaurea cyanus, Antirrhinum majus, Silene pendula, Silene armeria, Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Primula malacoides, Calceolaria, Hippeastrum (sow immediately after harvest), etc.

    Flowering tree and shrub seeds that can be collected in June: after collecting Chimonanthus praecox seeds, if nursery conditions do not allow, the released seeds can also be dry-stored until the following spring before sowing, without affecting their germination rate; peaches, apricots, etc. should be sown immediately after harvest, or their seeds should be stratified in sand until they crack and germinate before sowing in the ground; Osmanthus fragrans seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed, be washed clean, and stored in moist sand to promote seed embryo after-ripening, and when they germinate, select a nursery site for sowing.

    2. Transplanting/Establishing and Potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting/establishing or potting, including: Oenothera biennis, Cleome hassleriana, Impatiens balsamina, Impatiens hawkeri, Primula malacoides, ornamental peppers, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Nicotiana tabacum, Petunia hybrida, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, Salvia splendens, Nemesia strumosa, Kochia scoparia, Cosmos sulphureus, Celosia argentea, Alternanthera versicolor, etc.

After entering summer, some large flowering trees and shrubs are no longer transplanted, so as not to affect their survival rate and growth after transplanting. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Fatsia japonica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia, Hypericum monogynum, Gardenia jasminoides, Ligustrum sinense 'Variegatum', Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Buxus species, under special circumstances, transplanting with a soil ball is not impossible, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just do not let the tree know," but after transplanting, misting and shading management should be strengthened.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    For watering potted flowers in June, attention should be paid to the following aspects: first, watering time; it is better at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m., and under normal circumstances watering once a day is sufficient; second, watering temperature; the irrigation water and pot soil temperature should basically be consistent; if the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will stimulate the roots and leaves of potted flowers and thereby affect their growth; third, combine watering and spraying; when there has been no rain for several days, besides watering the pots, also spray water on the leaf surface and around the potted flowers to increase the humidity of the local space; if there is continuous cloudy weather, decide whether to water and spray according to the wetness or dryness of the pot soil.

For flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: Oxalis corymbosa, Pelargonium hortorum, Fuchsia hybrida, Clivia miniata, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Begonia species, etc., when the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, watering should be reduced, and keeping the pot soil moist is sufficient; deeply dormant species such as: Cyclamen persicum, Lycoris (species), Ranunculus asiaticus, Dutch peony, etc., under high temperatures show aboveground stems and leaves withering and underground nutrient fibrous roots dying, overwintering? no, oversummering in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots; watering must be stopped for them, and they should be moved to a cool place, keeping the pot soil from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively inspect the potted flowers; if water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the pot soil dries, loosen the soil, so as to avoid root rot; or before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, set the potted flowers upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing species, such as Monstera deliciosa, Chlorophytum comosum, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta species, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Cycas revoluta, Aspidistra elatior, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Fittonia verschaffeltii (red/green), Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', Ficus elastica, Anthurium andraeanum, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Rhapis excelsa, Araucaria cunninghamii, Dracaena fragrans, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pachira aquatica, Chimonanthus praecox, Rosa chinensis, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Daphne odora, Rhododendron, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Lantana camara, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Justicia brandegeeana, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus limon, Fortunella margarita, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc., a thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer liquid can be applied once every half month; for species currently blooming, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the needs of growth, flowering, and fruiting.

For those flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped; especially for those succulent flower species, such as Crassula ovata, Schlumbergera, Haworthia cooperi, Senecio articulatus, Sedum morganianum, Lampranthus spectabilis, Stapelia, Sedum species, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, fertilization should be stopped to avoid rot.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. For vigorously growing species such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Carmona retusa, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Geum japonicum, Sabina chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Acer buergerianum, Fontanesia fortunei, Tamarix chinensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc., branches that affect the shape should be pruned or cut back early, which can keep the plant clearly layered and well-formed, and can promote more short branches and more new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal. For flowers such as Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Rosa chinensis, etc., spent flowers and withered stems should be removed promptly, and the branches that have flowered should be appropriately cut back to promote lower side branches or flower buds to bloom again; for flowering trees and shrubs such as Michelia alba, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Rhododendron, Camellia japonica, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Malus species, etc., in order to promote a good plant shape and more flower buds, more flowers, and better flowers in the current or following year, overly vigorous branches should be topped and buds removed to inhibit the growth of main and lateral shoots and promote the sprouting of lateral buds.

    4. Shading

    In June, for those flowering trees and shrubs that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to prevent damage from scorching sun. Such as Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Asparagus setaceus, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, Strelitzia reginae, orchids, Rhapis excelsa, Ficus elastica, ferns, Philodendron, Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea roseopicta, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Epipremnum aureum, Peperomia, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Fittonia verschaffeltii (red/green), Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Red Queen', Livistona chinensis, Daphne odora, Aspidistra elatior, Chlorophytum comosum, etc. Light-loving flower species must be given sufficient light, such as Punica granatum, Wisteria sinensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Serissa japonica, Cycas revoluta, Sabina chinensis, peach blossoms, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Acer buergerianum, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Geum japonicum, Xylosma racemosum, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus armandii, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Rosa chinensis, Mahonia, grape, etc.; Podocarpus macrophyllus, Damnacanthus indicus, Nandina domestica, Bambusa ventricosa, Bambusa multiplex, Pinus parviflora, Podocarpus nagi, etc. can be given appropriate shading.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Ulmus parvifolia, Chaenomeles sinensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Malus species, etc. are prone to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles, and poisoned sticks should be used promptly to block and control them.

(2) Rosa chinensis, Rosa multiflora, Rosa rugosa, etc. are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot disease during the plum rain season, and Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed early for control.

(3) Michelia alba, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, etc. are prone to aphid damage, and suitable pesticides should be selected early for spraying and killing.

(4) Orchid leaves are susceptible to anthracnose, and fungicides such as carbendazim should be sprayed early for control.

(5) Young leaves of Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus limon, Fortunella margarita, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, etc. are prone to being eaten by citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, and contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides can be sprayed to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

Plant species that can be shaped in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and must be plants potted and hardened in early spring or planted in the ground. They are: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Jasminum nudiflorum, Elaeagnus pungens, Pinus armandii, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Sabina chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Lycium chinense, Pinus parviflora, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Prunus mume, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Acer buergerianum, Serissa japonica, Pinus thunbergii, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Ulmus parvifolia, Tamarix chinensis, Geum japonicum, Sabina chinensis, Ginkgo biloba, Fontanesia fortunei, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc. Shaping in June must be careful, with slow wiring and gentle tying; never be impatient or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5 is Mangzhong; June 21 is Xiazhi.

Flower Planting Manual (July Edition)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain weather in the Yangtze-Huaihe region ends. July 16 is the first day of the dog days, and August 15 is the last day of the dog days; most parts of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of our country is above 24°C, and in the region south of the Yangtze-Huaihe it is 28°C; only in northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau is the average July temperature below 20°C. July flower care mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: Pericallis hybrida, Primula obconica, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, Campanula medium, etc. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light transmission.
    In July, mature fruits of Prunus mume, Prunus persica var. compressa? no, wild peach, Prunus davidiana, Prunus triloba, etc. can also be picked; after washing off the fruit pulp, sow them immediately in furrows, or store the washed stone fruits in moist sand until they crack and then sow; Chimonanthus praecox seeds can be sown immediately after harvest, or the seeds released from the fruit capsule can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, without affecting their germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    Herbaceous flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Scutellaria indica, Begonia species, Coleus blumei, Pilea cadierei, Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Gomphrena globosa, Pelargonium hortorum, Aster novi-belgii, Lythrum salicaria, Cyperus alternifolius, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Plectranthus scutellarioides, Peperomia, Epipremnum pinnatum, Polygonum chinense, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Epipremnum aureum, etc.
    Woody flowering plant species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Nandina domestica, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Euphorbia milii, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum patulum, Weigela coraeensis, Hydrangea macrophylla, Weigela florida, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Daphne odora, Gardenia jasminoides, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Magnolia sieboldii, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera octophylla, Mahonia, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Pyracantha fortuneana, Cordyline fruticosa, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Serissa japonica, Michelia figo, Viburnum odoratissimum, Ficus elastica, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, Buxus species, Ficus carica, Magnolia liliiflora, Osmanthus fragrans, Rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Salix babylonica var. matsudana f. tortuosa, Salix babylonica var. matsudana f. pendula, etc. Hippeastrum can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July, some flowering trees and shrubs can also be propagated by water cuttings. They are: Gardenia jasminoides, Nerium oleander, Rosa chinensis, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Ficus carica, Punica granatum, Fuchsia hybrida, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, etc. To propagate flowering trees and shrubs by water cuttings, first, prepare a thick 1 cm to 2 cm foam plastic board, perforate it, and use it as fixing material for the cuttings; second, keep the water used for cuttings clean; a few pieces of charcoal can be put in for anti-corrosion purposes.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old Prunus davidiana and Prunus persica seedling plants can be used as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate Prunus persica 'Duplex', Prunus persica 'Densa', Prunus persica 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume, Prunus triloba, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, Prunus mume 'Meiren', etc.; use cutting plants of Rosa multiflora, Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis, and 'Shishimei' as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate variety roses, cut-flower roses, and Rosa rugosa, etc.; use potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock for side grafting to propagate Michelia alba, Michelia figo, etc.; use potted 2-year-old seedling Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock for side grafting to propagate superior varieties of Chimonanthus praecox; 2-year-old seedling Chimonanthus praecox can also be used as rootstock, using the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm above the ground, and after 7 to 10 days it can be determined whether it has survived; use Rhododendron pulchrum 'Zi Hudie' and 'Yu Hudie' as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting to propagate Rhododendron hybridum or Rhododendron obtusum; use cherry seedling plants as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of flowering cherry; use current-year seedling plants of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, or Malus halliana and Malus spectabilis as rootstock to carry out "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of Malus species; use Acer palmatum seedling plants as rootstock for bagged grafting to propagate Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum 'Dissectum', and other nursery stock.
    4. Layering
    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia odorata (air layering), Chimonanthus praecox, Lonicera japonica, Hydrangea macrophylla, Campsis grandiflora, Viburnum macrocephalum, Nerium oleander, Weigela florida, Caragana sinica, Osmanthus fragrans, Gardenia jasminoides, Magnolia liliiflora, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, climbing rose, Jasminum nudiflorum, etc.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Acorus species, Cyperus alternifolius, Aspidistra elatior, Tradescantia spathacea, Bromeliaceae, Haworthia, Chlorophytum comosum, Liriope species, Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Iris, Tradescantia zebrina, etc. II. Seed Collection and Transplanting/Establishing
    1. Seed Collection
    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Ipomoea nil, Gypsophila elegans, Petunia hybrida, Phlox drummondii, Digitalis purpurea, Coreopsis tinctoria, Lathyrus odoratus, Bellis perennis, Delphinium grandiflorum, Viola tricolor, Lampranthus spectabilis, etc.
    Flower and tree seeds that can be harvested in July include: wintersweet, plum, hairy peach, mountain peach, flowering almond, and so on.
    2. Transplanting, planting out and potting up
    July is the main period for potting up the herbaceous flowers to be displayed during the National Day holiday. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted up at this time can be seedlings from seed or from cuttings; after 3 months of careful tending, they will bloom right around the National Day holiday, for use as holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia, Impatiens hawkeri, dragon's-mouth flower (snapdragon), marigold, French marigold, summer cypress, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, and so on.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, transplanting certain flowering shrubs with a soil ball is also feasible, such as leatherleaf mahonia, St. John's wort, golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, Japanese aucuba, and Chinese juniper balls, and so on. However, targeted pruning must be done, shade frames must be set up in time, and the frequency of water spraying must be increased; after they have basically survived, they can be shifted to normal management. Never be careless.
III. Flower management
    1. Watering
For flower species that enter a semi-dormant state at high temperatures, such as red wood sorrel, geraniums, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonias, sedum, kalanchoe, cacti, Haworthia, Stapelia grandiflora, string of pearls, Senecio radians, Daphne, Christmas cactus, Portulacaria afra, aloe, and so on, because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low. Watering should be reduced, the potting soil kept moist, and attention paid to shading and ventilation, so as to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it easily leads to root rot and also seriously affects their recovery growth after autumn.
For flower species that enter a deep dormancy state at high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, Persian buttercup, and bleeding heart, in July they show withered aboveground stems and leaves, and the underground nutrient fibrous roots die off, overwintering through the summer as underground stems or tuberous roots in the soil. For flowers in deep dormancy, watering should be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the potting soil should merely be kept from becoming too dry.
For flower species with vigorous growth, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm, Aspidistra, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Michelia alba, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, Norfolk Island pine, Calathea species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', Calathea roseopicta, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, camellia, sasanqua, Japanese aucuba, Pyracantha, bitter orange, lemon, Podocarpus, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, and so on, not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but the leaves should also be given appropriate spraying, combining watering and spraying. Especially during continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be given, and never be neglected. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray the leaves, and after the leaves recover and stand up, then water the roots. Never pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or cause the rot of the plant's nutrient fibrous roots, and even cause the plant to die.
For potted plum bonsai, since July to August is its flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves of the potted plant slightly curled inward on both sides, so as to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second flush of new shoots produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and then pinch off the rest, and flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axil of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, one should avoid the few hours before and after noon; watering before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. is preferable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain, and when water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out in time; after the potting soil is slightly dry, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of the potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, there are four major categories of ornamental plants that should have their fertilizing management strengthened. First are species with particularly long flowering periods, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Magnolia denudata, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, and so on; second are species that bloom abundantly in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, cotton rose, and so on; third are species for winter flower and fruit display, such as bitter orange, nandina, wintersweet, rhododendron, and so on; fourth are foliage plants, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, rubber tree, and so on. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, besides topdressing the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for their budding, flowering and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea liquid should be the main choice. As for the fertilizing method, drenching with thin liquid fertilizer is preferable.
    The herbaceous flowers whose fertilizing should be strengthened in July include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, Cymbidium ensifolium, marigold, four-o'clock, dragon's-mouth flower (snapdragon), and so on. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, banana shrub, osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming cestrum, Chinese rose, crabapple species, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, rhododendron, Chloranthus, wintersweet, rose of Sharon, cotton rose, and so on. There are relatively many kinds of foliage plants, such as bromeliads, Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, Calathea, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Cordyline, and so on.
   In July, for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, fertilizing must be stopped; especially for those succulent ornamental plants, such as sedum species, Senecio articulatus, Lampranthus, Stapelia, and so on, fertilizing must be stopped even more, to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be tip-pruned and bud-pinched in summer must be species with vigorous growth, strong sprouting ability and tolerance to pruning. Pinching means directly removing the young tip terminal bud with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Adinandra, Euonymus bungeanus, boxleaf holly, wintersweet, firethorn, Podocarpus, Chinese tamarisk, Elaeagnus, Adina, Vitex, Forsythia, hackberry, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus, trident maple, crape myrtle, serissa, orange jasmine, and so on. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of the new shoots, to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds, so that they form beautiful crown pads or tree shapes. Plants suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are inconvenient to pinch by finger, such as Chinese juniper, Oriental arborvitae, Sabina chinensis, creeping juniper, oak, Ilex cornuta, and Chinese juniper 'Zhenbai,' and so on.
For those potted flower species that bloom continuously over a long period, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus, and so on, their spent flowers and withered stalks should be removed in time, and the necessary shortening pruning should be given to the branches that have already flowered, which can promote the sprouting of their lower lateral buds and a second round of flowering. For rhododendron, camellia, sasanqua, crabapple, wintersweet, plum blossom, and so on, the overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened, so as to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperature of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade frame, to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun exposure. Such as ferns, hosta, purple hosta, Monstera deliciosa, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, Chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchids, Rhapis excelsa, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Calathea roseopicta, pothos, pepperomia species, Aspidistra, Tradescantia zebrina, Dracaena fragrans, Epipremnum pinnatum, bromeliads, Calathea species, Reineckea carnea, and so on.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, firethorn, jasmine, serissa, sago palm, Sabina chinensis, Oriental arborvitae, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, black pine, Adina, oak, Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song,' Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, and so on. For Podocarpus, Buddhist pine, banana shrub, Damnacanthus, asparagus fern, bamboo palm, five-needle pine, and so on, appropriate shading is necessary.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature is too high this month and the air is relatively dry, besides giving the necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand; this can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and also help protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, one should choose flower species with a relatively high degree of leaf sclerification, or with a relatively thick cuticle layer on the leaf surface, that are slightly tolerant of dry environments and have strong resistance, such as rubber tree, Japanese fatsia, leatherleaf mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Hibiscus, Chinese fan palm, Rhapis excelsa, Canary Island date palm, bromeliads, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera, Aspidistra, Japanese aucuba, and so on, while it is not advisable to choose Boston fern, coleus, Philodendron 'Green Giant,' Syngonium, and so on. In addition, in management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping away from air-conditioner vents, to prevent the wind from directly blowing on the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf edges to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are easily infected with anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant, and in severe cases can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous overcast rain are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the onset period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the stumps or main trunks of plum, peach, crabapple species, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, flowering almond, and so on, it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Control can be carried out by manual digging and killing, injecting systemic pesticides, inserting and plugging poison sticks, and burying carbofuran in the soil, and so on, which can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, dimethoate, omethoate, and so on are prohibited, to prevent causing phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, timely control should be carried out against the box tree pyralid moth that harms boxleaf holly, boxwood, sharp-leaf boxwood, and pearl boxwood; when this insect occurs severely, it can gnaw all the leaves bare. Once found, pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate or fenvalerate can be sprayed in time. If long-term use of a certain pesticide has caused it to develop resistance, a new type of pesticide can be substituted.
(4) In July, in some areas, the larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly will continue to harm the leaves of new shoots of bitter orange, kumquat, jin dou, fingered citron, lemon, Citrus wilsonii, rue, and so on, and stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed in time to kill them.
(5) The white wax insect that harms privet, small-leaf privet, water wax, and white wax tree has its emergence period from late July to late August; the right timing should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the white wax insect from causing harm again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest harming large-leaf boxwood, plane tree, Pittosporum, camellia, red-leaf plum, cedar, and so on; in severe cases, the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed in time for control.
IV. Bonsai shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, the air humidity is low, and the plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches are easily infected with pathogens after injury and are not easy to heal and recover, so most tree-stump species are no longer suitable for further wiring and shaping. Those that can still be shaped are some plant species with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and the plants are required to be those potted up in spring for hardening off or planted in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Podocarpus, false arborvitae, incense cedar, serissa, black pine, boxleaf holly, Adina, and so on.
    In July, plant shaping must be careful and meticulous, wiring gently and slowly, applying force gradually; one must not operate hastily or use too much force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plant's branches and trunk to break, endangering its survival.
    The solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Handbook: Autumn

Flower Planting Handbook (August chapter)

Flowers suitable for display in the courtyard
    August has high temperatures, strong light, and low humidity, and is the second-highest high-temperature dry-hot period of the year after July; the monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for display in the courtyard are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among the woody flowers are mainly: Norfolk Island pine, black pine, Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song,' five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese umbrella pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Armand pine, Podocarpus, Sabina chinensis, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea fragrans, cinnamon, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata,' Chinese hibiscus, Lantana camara, coral tree (Erythrina), Dutch iron, croton, Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, money tree, Schefflera, plumeria, Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui,' oleander, Washington palm, palm, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Japanese fatsia, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata,' ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese rose, and so on. Among the herbaceous flowers are: garden balsam, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata,' scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, begonia, dragon's-mouth flower (snapdragon), marigold, French marigold, phlox, ornamental pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, pot marigold, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four-o'clock, zinnia, and so on. In addition there are also Aspidistra, Aglaonema, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen,' and so on.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony, flowering almond, red-flowered camellia, summer wintersweet, American summer wintersweet, Podocarpus, and so on; they can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, and then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be sand-stored to promote germination and then sown in bags. Ornamental pomegranate is harvested after the fruit ripens and cracks; rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, store in sand until germination, and then sow. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, rice button aster, petunia, snapdragon, coneflower, oxalis species, yarrow, nasturtium, pyrethrum, and so on. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: pocketbook plant, cyclamen, cineraria, wax begonia, fairy primrose, coleus, pot marigold, and so on.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed substrate prepared from alkaline-leached rice chaff ash and wet fine sand in a 2:1 ratio, for moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings, the following flower and tree species can be propagated: firethorn, leatherleaf mahonia species, wintersweet, banana shrub, bougainvillea, coral tree, Aglaia odorata, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata,' Chinese snowball viburnum, snowball, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus, rubber tree, Osmanthus, Podocarpus, Schefflera species, Cordyline, hydrangea, purple magnolia, and so on. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, and so on as the substrate, one can take cuttings of boxwood species, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, French holly, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, serissa, spiraea, spirea, gardenia, and so on. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, and so on can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flower and tree grafting can be carried out: in northern regions, use Chinese fringetree as rootstock, cleft-graft osmanthus; use purple magnolia and Magnolia denudata as rootstock, bud-graft to propagate Yulan magnolia hybrid; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock, cleft-graft Michelia alba; use the current-year seedlings of hairy peach as rootstock, bud-graft plum, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf flowering cherry, flowering almond, and so on; use cherry seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft Japanese cherry; use wild rose, Rosa multiflora, and so on as rootstock, bud-graft superior varieties of Chinese rose; use Malus baccata, Chinese pearleaf crabapple, Malus hupehensis, and so on seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft Malus spectabilis and Hall crabapple; use green maple as rootstock, crown-change graft red maple and laceleaf maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as rootstock, cleft-graft variegated weeping fig; use single-petal camellia as rootstock, cleft-graft superior varieties of camellia; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock, cleft-graft and cleft-graft superior varieties of wintersweet. In addition, cleft grafting can be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, trumpet creeper, banks rose, climbing rose, weigela, hydrangea, Chinese snowball viburnum, snowball, oleander, gardenia, broom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple, Malus spectabilis, osmanthus species, purple magnolia, jasmine, Chloranthus, banana shrub, Chinese hibiscus, Podocarpus, coral tree, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), and so on.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, Philodendron 'Little Angel,' multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor,' bromeliads, Solomon's seal, Aspidistra, umbrella plant, Adina, red (green) gem, iris, blackberry lily, purple triangular oxalis, Aglaonema, Dutch aster, fine-leaf acorus, Boston fern, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen,' Calathea species, Syngonium, Haworthia, and so on. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, freesia, and so on can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of flowers planted in the ground in the courtyard
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when transplanted with a large soil ball and supplemented with intensive pruning, management such as shading, watering and spraying should be strengthened after transplanting, and a relatively high survival rate can be obtained, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-edge Oriental arborvitae, golden-heart (golden-edge) boxwood, St. John's wort, leatherleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, Chinese rose, rhododendron, gardenia, Podocarpus, banana shrub, Chinese juniper ball, Sabina chinensis ball, boxwood ball, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, Japanese aucuba, French holly, and so on. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and planted out, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, dragon's-mouth flower (snapdragon), and so on, which can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, for the roadside hedges in the courtyard such as boxwood, small-leaf privet, privet, golden-leaf privet, French holly, and Photinia davidsoniae, pruning should continue to be given. For ball-shaped plants planted in the ground, such as Photinia, Chinese juniper, Sabina chinensis, bayberry, firethorn, Pittosporum, Ilex cornuta, holly, and so on, pruning must also be done again. For ground-planted flowers and trees that bloom continuously over a long period, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, Lantana camara, and so on, spent flowers should be removed in time, and the branch tips given moderate shortening pruning. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, French marigold, marigold, and so on, tip pruning and pinching should be given.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and herbaceous flowers planted out, watering and spraying management should be strengthened; for plants whose trunks are bound with straw rope, the straw rope should be sprayed wet, to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves; spray more and water cautiously, ensuring no water accumulation at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered loropetalum, golden-edge (golden-heart) boxwood, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, purple-leaf sand cherry, croton, red mulberry, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata,' Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata,' and so on, in order to keep their leaf color bright for a long time, a quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied. For species that bloom continuously, such as Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui,' Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui,' flowering pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, Lantana camara, and so on, as well as species about to bloom such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, autumn anemone, and so on, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly. For camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, and so on that are in the midst of flower bud differentiation, a small amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed by the leaf-surface topdressing method.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on cedar, privet, Pittosporum, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, camellia, and so on, spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution promptly for control. For the chrysanthemum longhorn beetle, aphids, and so on occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution for killing. For the larvae of the rose sawfly and cotton leafworm that gnaw on Chinese rose leaves, spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution promptly for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, flowering almond, red-flowered camellia, Podocarpus, summer wintersweet, and so on. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony, moss rose, four-o'clock, phlox, California poppy, snow-in-summer, and so on.
Management of potted flowers in the courtyard
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 a.m., and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For those ornamental plant species that like acidic conditions, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that: for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as pocketbook plant, gloxinia, Iron Cross begonia, hairy-leaf begonia, and so on, water droplets are not easy to evaporate after falling on the leaves, and easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf-cluster flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the clivia leaf cluster must not be drenched with water either, as dirty water flowing into the leaf cluster will cause heart rot; for bromeliads, one must water less and spray more, and inject water into the leaf tubes, to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, attention must be paid to loosening the soil, which can be done once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to harden. For flower species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, watering and spraying should be controlled, to the extent of maintaining the potting soil slightly moist; by spraying the small environment around the flower pots, a relatively cool and moist environment can be created for them.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, rubber tree, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, queen palm, pygmy date palm, areca palm, fishtail palm, Chinese fan palm, pothos, Dracaena fragrans, Dutch iron, money tree, Boston fern, Pandanus, Fagraea fragrans (African jasmine), cinnamon (pingan wood), gold coin tree (dragon-phoenix tree), Syngonium, Philodendron 'Green Emperor,' Philodendron 'Green Queen,' poinsettia, Calathea roseopicta, Schefflera, Japanese aucuba, Chamaedorea elegans, croton, Japanese fatsia, and so on, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be topdressed, such as urea liquid, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with long flowering periods, such as Chinese rose, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui,' Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui,' bougainvillea, Lantana camara, and so on, as well as fruit-display plants such as bitter orange, fingered citron, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia, firethorn, Diospyros cathayensis, fruit pomegranate, nandina, papaya, and so on, besides ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should also be topdressed, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate, and so on. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, dragon's-mouth flower (snapdragon), China aster, chrysanthemum, dwarf sunflower, and so on, a thin liquid fertilizer can be topdressed once every half month, ensuring lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flower and tree species in the midst of flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, osmanthus, rhododendron, and so on, a low-concentration phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should be topdressed on the leaves. When topdressing organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip on the leaves, to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, after fertilizing, spray the leaves once promptly, to wash off fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, Daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, Portulacaria afra, Christmas cactus, sedum species, purple triangular oxalis, cacti, ball cacti, and so on, all forms of topdressing must be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plants to rot at the roots or die.
3. Shading. In August, the summer heat is still strong, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers is still very important. For those ornamental plant species that like cool conditions, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel,' rubber tree, areca palm, Philodendron 'Green Giant,' Syngonium, Calathea species, red (green) gem, Rhapis excelsa, pothos, Philodendron 'Green Emperor,' Philodendron 'Green Queen,' orchid species, Calathea roseopicta, pepperomia, bromeliads, Adina, pilea, ferns, Buddha belly bamboo, bamboo fern, spider plant, Reineckea carnea, Chamaedorea elegans, Fittonia, Gynura, Ludisia, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen,' Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, begonias, lucky bamboo, Aspidistra, asparagus fern, purple hosta, and so on, shade frames can continue to be given, pulling on the shade net at 9 a.m. and removing it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours before and after noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and then moved out from under the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, for those tree-stump bonsai with vigorous growth, tolerance to pruning and easy sprouting, continue to give pinching or pruning, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus, Adina, boxleaf holly, and so on. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, and so on, give shortening pruning after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and bud thinning?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control should be carried out against pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterfly, rose sawfly, peach red-necked longhorn beetle, and so on. Attention should be paid to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, leaf blight, and so on. Attention should be paid to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leafminers, stem borers, and so on.
Potted plants suitable for display on the balcony
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry-hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or that have long been placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as black pine, Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song,' five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Adina, Ilex cornuta, holly, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, boxleaf holly, Oriental arborvitae stump, Sabina chinensis, creeping juniper, oak, Fraxinus, Fujian tea, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave, Lantana camara, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, trident maple, Podocarpus, and so on. In August, part of the flowers and trees on the balcony can be moved into air-conditioned rooms, such as Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda, Oncidium, South American cycad, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, Philodendron 'Green Giant,' red (green) gem, Calathea, areca palm, queen palm, Philodendron 'Little Angel,' Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, pothos, Rhapis excelsa, money tree, clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, Japanese fatsia, and so on.
Propagation of balcony flowers
In August, on the balcony, large-diameter flower pots with plastic film covering can be used for moisture-retaining cuttings of some ornamental plants; the cutting substrate can be rice chaff ash mixed with fine sand in a 2:1 ratio, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata,' begonia, gardenia, Pachystachys lutea, coral flower, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui,' Chloranthus, Cordyline, jasmine, Aglaonema, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen,' camellia, sasanqua, banana shrub, and so on; for the 5 to 6 hours before and after noon, they should be moved indoors. Indoors, some ornamental plants can also be water-propagated, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus, Schefflera, Japanese aucuba, fig, Cordyline, plumeria, geranium, Aglaonema, fuchsia, and so on.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying of balcony potted flowers must be careful and cautious. First, avoid too great a difference between the water temperature and the soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the timing of watering and spraying, which can be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, one must not neglect loosening the soil of the potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water, to meet the needs of most ornamental plants that like a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, bricks can be used to build a simple sand pool, with 10 cm of wet sand placed inside, and then some potted flowers that are relatively fond of moisture can be placed on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, Philodendron 'Little Angel,' camellia, sasanqua, Syngonium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, bromeliads, red (green) gem, Chloranthus, and so on; usually spraying instead of watering is very beneficial for their safe overwintering through summer. For Cymbidium, tiger orchid, Oncidium, Cattleya, fuchsia, Dendrobium, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, and so on, they can be moved into air-conditioned rooms, with spraying instead of watering, ensuring they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, boxleaf holly, trident maple, black pine, Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song,' wisteria, Fujian tea, Adina, agave, sago palm, and so on, they can be watered 1 to 2 times a day and sprayed 1 to 2 times a day.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for balcony potted plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, fertilizing should be stopped. For vigorously growing foliage plants, 0.3% urea liquid can be sprayed or drenched, or multi-element compound fertilizer granules can be broadcast on the pot surface. For flowers and trees mainly for flower and fruit display, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, firethorn, fingered citron, kumquat, and so on, quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should be continuously topdressed. For Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Ilex cornuta, holly, Podocarpus, Fujian tea, trident maple, Adina, boxleaf holly, and so on, after each pruning, a thin fertilizer can be topdressed once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai, such as five-needle pine, Podocarpus, Sabina chinensis, Fujian tea, plum blossom, trident maple, and so on, soft grass, moss or wet cloth can be spread over the pot surface, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature, and also protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a shade net can be used to block light. If there are not many potted flowers and trees on the balcony and they are relatively precious, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours before and after noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most of the tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, serissa, Fraxinus, oak, small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Sabina chinensis, Oriental arborvitae, small-leaf privet, boxleaf holly, firethorn, and so on, pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For spent flowers, withered stalks, dead branches and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution should be sprayed promptly to kill them. For the small number of scale insects appearing on flowers and trees, they can be removed by the method of sticking with transparent tape. For the aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, it is advisable to spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution to kill them

Flower Planting Handbook (September chapter)

Flowers suitable for display in the courtyard
In September, the temperature in most parts of our country slowly declines, with the monthly average temperature between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are relatively many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for display in the courtyard. Among the woody ornamental plant species are: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese umbrella pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Podocarpus, Buddhist pine, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian cycad, Fagraea fragrans, cinnamon species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata,' Chinese hibiscus, cotton rose, Dutch iron, croton, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Schefflera, Rhapis excelsa, plumeria, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Japanese fatsia, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata,' ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm tree, Chinese rose, fishtail palm, areca palm, queen palm, Cordyline, pygmy date palm, fiddle-leaf fig, red maple, South American cycad, spruce species, Schefflera, Garcinia (Clusiaceae), giant Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, orange jasmine, Pandanus, nandina, and so on. Among the herbaceous flowers are: Canna generalis, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, begonia, marigold, ornamental pepper, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, dragon's-mouth flower (snapdragon), and so on.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, banana shrub species, magnolia species, manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summer wintersweet, Canary Island date palm, and so on. Among them, horse chestnut seeds can be sown in furrows, and when sowing the hilum should face downward, and the covering soil should not be too deep, with 2 to 2.5 cm being suitable; cover with plastic film or straw to retain moisture. Summer wintersweet seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours and then sown in the ground, and they will emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for summer wintersweet, which can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, all the other species must be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers; herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, dianthus, tall catchfly, dwarf catchfly, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, and so on. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, nasturtium, cineraria, wax begonia, Gerbera, pocketbook plant can also be sown at this time, but must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice chaff ash as the cutting substrate, the flower and tree species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: firethorn, leatherleaf mahonia, banana shrub, bougainvillea, Weigela, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata,' fuchsia, Chinese snowball viburnum, snowball, weigela, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus, gold-vein shrimp plant, coral flower, rubber tree, Schefflera, Cordyline, and so on. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood species, purple magnolia, St. John's wort, spiraea, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, spirea, hydrangea, French holly, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, serissa, gardenia, Japanese fatsia, Chaenomeles speciosa, tree peony, and so on. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, winter chrysanthemum, and so on.
3. Grafting. The following flower and tree grafting propagation can be carried out: use peony root segments as rootstock, graft superior varieties of tree peony; use hairy peach, apricot, and so on seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft to propagate flowering almond, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, and so on; use green maple seedlings as rootstock, bag-covered moisture-retaining cleft-graft red maple, laceleaf maple, and so on; use Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata and Yulan magnolia hybrid; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock, cleft-graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft kumquat, and so on; use Chinese fringetree as rootstock, cleft-graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock, cleft-graft superior varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, weigela, hydrangea, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, Forsythia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, jasmine, banana shrub, camellia, Chloranthus, French holly, snowball, Chinese snowball viburnum, spirea, spiraea, and so on.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, peony, tree peony, Aglaonema, purple triangular oxalis, Rudbeckia, snake plant, Philodendron 'Little Angel,' multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor,' Aglaonema 'Silver Queen,' Boston fern, nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia, Liriope 'Silver Stripe,' Aspidistra, big-leaf dwarf lilyturf, and so on. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, Lycoris, Mediterranean bluebell, and so on can also have their daughter bulbs divided and planted at this time for cultivating large flowering bulbs.
Management of flowers planted in the ground in the courtyard
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there is a special need, flower and tree transplanting is generally not carried out in the courtyard. If it is for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out provided a good soil ball is kept. Species such as: oleander, Chinese juniper, banana shrub, Sabina chinensis, osmanthus, camellia, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, boxwood species, St. John's wort, French holly, red-flowered loropetalum, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata,' and so on. Transplanting requires intensive pruning, and watering, spraying and shading management must be strengthened, so as to ensure that transplanting is absolutely safe. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted up, for viewing in the golden autumn of October. Species include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, French marigold, dragon's-mouth flower (snapdragon), cockscomb, periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, and so on.
2. Pruning. Continue to prune the vigorously growing, strongly sprouting courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants; this is also the last pruning of the growing season for ball-shaped plants in northern regions this year. The main courtyard hedge and color-block tree species that should be pruned are: boxwood species, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, privet, small-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, golden-edge Oriental arborvitae, and so on. Ball-shaped ornamental plants that should be pruned include: Chinese juniper, Sabina chinensis, boxwood, bayberry, Ilex cornuta, holly, Photinia, Pittosporum, firethorn, Forsythia, and so on. Those that can have their ground-planted herbaceous flowers tip-pruned and pinched include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, summer cypress, marigold, French marigold, and so on. It is advisable to pinch once every 10 days, to promote the formation of a full plant shape and the bearing of more inflorescences on the lateral shoots; stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that bloom continuously over a long period, such as variety roses, floribunda roses, miniature roses, climbing roses, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Lantana camara, bougainvillea, and so on, spent flowers and withered stalks should be cut off in time, and the branches that have already flowered given moderate shortening pruning, which can effectively promote them to bloom again.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry; for trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year, continuing to do a good job of watering and spraying management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival results. First, water the roots, keeping the soil moist but not waterlogged; second, spray the straw rope wrapped around the trunk, creating a locally moist protective layer for the trunk; third, spray the crown, reducing leaf transpiration and increasing the humidity of the local space. In addition, for successively newly planted herbaceous flowers, a good job of spraying to retain moisture should also be done.
4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, red maple, red-flowered loropetalum, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata,' croton, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata,' red mulberry, red-leaf sand cherry, red-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, and so on, in order to keep their leaf color fresh and bright at all times, phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should be appropriately topdressed. For ground-planted flowers and trees that bloom continuously or are for autumn flower and fruit display, such as crape myrtle, Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui,' four-season mandarin, flowering pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, Lantana camara, nandina, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, and so on, as well as a large number of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, a quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be topdressed. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, orange osmanthus, and so on that are in bloom, fertilizing can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth harming crape myrtle, firethorn, crabapple, and so on, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution for control; for the star longhorn beetle harming crape myrtle, papaya, crabapple, a poison stick can be inserted at the insect hole for control; for powdery mildew and so on appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution can be used in the early stage of onset for control.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flower and tree species of the Magnoliaceae. Such as Oyama magnolia, banana shrub, purple magnolia, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia 'Yunshan Bailan,' Michelia chapensis, Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, southern magnolia, and so on. In addition, there are also horse chestnut species, crape myrtle, lilac, crabapple species, redbud, Exochorda, yew, glossy wintersweet, and so on. For Magnoliaceae as well as yew, horse chestnut, crabapple species, and so on, the seeds after treatment must be stored in wet sand until early spring of the following year, and sown in the ground after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, garden balsam, four-o'clock, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, China aster, and so on; after collection, thresh them in time and dry-store until the following spring for sowing.
Management of potted flowers in the courtyard
1. Watering. In September, the light is strong, the temperature is high, and the air is quite dry, so the watering management of potted flowers must not be neglected. As for watering frequency, for generally moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month water or spray once each in the morning and afternoon, and in the second half of the month change to watering once, with appropriate misting of the leaves. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves. Water before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer an acidic environment, add a small amount of 0.1% light-green ferrous sulfate powder to the irrigation water. For flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer and resume growth after the arrival of autumn, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or misting). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil around the plants once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is precisely the period of vigorous growth for most flowers; some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as the temperature gradually turns cooler, so this month fertilizer management should be taken very seriously. For foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Pachira aquatica, Dracaena fragrans, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix tree), Araucaria heterophylla, Caryota mitis, Epipremnum aureum, red (green) gem, green emperor, silver queen, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, Ficus lyrata, etc., still mainly use low-concentration dilute fertilizer liquid, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flower and tree species with a very long flowering period or whose peak flowering period is autumn, such as Rosa chinensis, Lantana camara, Lantana montevidensis, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixiang', Osmanthus fragrans, etc., for fruit-viewing plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Diospyros armata, Callicarpa species, fruiting pomegranate, etc., and for colorful-foliage plants such as Codiaeum variegatum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Bromeliaceae species, Ficus variegata, Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Cordyline fruticosa, Coleus scutellarioides, etc., apply fertilizer types with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For Fuchsia hybrida, Pelargonium hortorum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Begonia semperflorens, Daphne odora, Schlumbergera truncata, Sedum species, Portulacaria afra (jade leaf), Oxalis triangularis, Clivia miniata, Epiphyllum hybridum, etc., which are resuming growth, resume applying low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for flowers that have completed flower-bud differentiation and entered the stage of flower-bud enlargement, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Michelia figo, Rhododendron species, etc., apply low-concentration fertilizer types with balanced nutrition; for potted herbaceous flowers such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Chrysanthemum morifolium, Callistephus chinensis, Dahlia pinnata, dwarf sunflower, etc., apply a thin fertilizer once every 10 days to meet their needs for bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, the temperature is high and the sunlight is still fierce, so shade management for courtyard potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Nephrolepis exaltata 'Bostoniensis', Asplenium nidus, Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, Epipremnum aureum, Rhapis excelsa, green emperor, silver queen, orchid grass, Dieffenbachia species, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Aspidistra elatior, Begonia species, Epipremnum pinnatum, dwarf angel, red (green) gem, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Odontonema strictum, Asparagus setaceus, Schefflera octophylla, Pteris cretica 'Albolineata', Peperomia argyreia, Dieffenbachia seguine, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Anthurium andraeanum, Platycerium bifurcatum, Pilea peperomioides, Adina pilulifera, king palm, Dracaena sanderiana, etc., through shading give 5 to 6 hours of light per day; for light-loving species such as Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Ehretia microphylla, Ginkgo biloba, Adina rubella, Pinus thunbergii, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Juniperus chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Araucaria heterophylla, Wisteria sinensis, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Pyracantha fortuneana, Rosa chinensis, Xylosma congestum, Fraxinus hupehensis, etc., full light can be given; for semi-shade-loving species such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pinus parviflora, Damnacanthus indicus, Syzygium buxifolium, Loropetalum chinense, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Nandina domestica, Crassula ovata, Rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Citrus medica, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Fortunella margarita, etc., appropriate shading can be given around noon. Newly transplanted and potted autumn herbaceous flowers should also be appropriately shaded to prevent the plants from wilting and affecting their recovery and growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue the work of disbudding and removing buds; for Rosa chinensis, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Lantana camara, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtanthus species, etc., prune after each flowering; for those tree-stump bonsai species that tolerate pruning, sprout easily, and grow vigorously, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Ehretia microphylla, Ficus microcarpa, Syzygium buxifolium, Ligustrum sinense, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis, Fraxinus hupehensis, Tamarix chinensis, etc., continue pruning or bud pinching. In addition, Pachira aquatica seedlings can be braided into a "braid" and potted up.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on potted Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis, longevity peach, Prunus persica 'Duplex', etc., poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, or control can be carried out by burying carbofuran granules. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, felt scale, etc., appearing on potted flowers and trees, use 40% Supracide 1500-fold solution for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air; only some potted flowers that have long been placed on the balcony or fairly resistant potted flowers and trees can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', Pinus densiflora, Pinus parviflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Acer buergerianum, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, fruit-viewing pomegranate, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Juniperus chinensis, Ehretia microphylla, Fraxinus hupehensis, Ficus microcarpa, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Rosa chinensis, Agave americana, Ginkgo biloba, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Celtis sinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Hemiptelea davidii, Serissa japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Oncidium species, Dendrobium species, Cattleya species, Vanda species, spider orchid, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Clivia miniata, Fuchsia hybrida, Fittonia verschaffeltii, etc.; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Dracaena species, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera octophylla, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony you can continue to use large-diameter flower pots as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of half rice-hull ash and half wet sand, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and can cuttings-propagate some ornamental plants, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Cordyline fruticosa, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera octophylla, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixiang', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Cyrtanthus species, Pachystachys lutea, Michelia figo, Aglaonema commutatum, etc. You can also water-propagate indoors Schefflera octophylla, Rosa chinensis, Gardenia jasminoides, Ficus carica, Aglaonema modestum, etc.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that rather prefer moisture, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, dwarf angel, Chloranthus spicatus, Bromeliaceae species, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats set over a balcony water pool or water vat, or placed in a self-built simple sand pool, and ordinarily misting replaces watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, mist more and water less, so as to keep the pot soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, mist at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even a fairly drought-tolerant Pinus parviflora bonsai will lose water and die if not watered or misted for 5 to 7 days. For fairly resistant potted ornamental plants placed on the balcony, continue watering once a day and misting 1 to 2 times, or use the soaking-pot method, to prevent the phenomenon of the pot soil being wet on top and dry below. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, pay attention that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light-green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, also appropriately apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for vigorously growing potted stumps, apply a thin liquid fertilizer once after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowers and trees mainly for viewing flowers and fruits, such as Michelia alba, Rosa chinensis, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Citrus medica, Fortunella margarita, etc., continue applying quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for potted flowers that have completed flower-bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Osmanthus fragrans, Chrysanthemum morifolium, etc., according to the different species, apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a multi-element compound fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. The types of fertilizer applied to flowers and trees on the balcony should not carry an unusual smell, especially not a foul odor; when applying, be careful not to splash down to the floor below, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full light, in order to reduce the amount of watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the pot soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when the number of potted flowers is small, they can be moved indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Ehretia microphylla, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Ligustrum sinense, Fraxinus hupehensis, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowers and trees, dead branches and yellow leaves, and faded flowers and withered stems, should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperature and dry air, and potted flowers and trees are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be sprayed and killed with 25% Omite wettable powder 1500-fold solution; for the double-striped fir longhorn beetle appearing on Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus rigida bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis, Chaenomeles sinensis, longevity peach, etc., continue inserting poison sticks or burying carbofuran for control; for the various scale insects harming Camellia japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lagerstroemia indica, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., when the number is small they can be wiped off by hand, and when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide 1500-fold solution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, the temperature drops in most parts of the country, with the monthly average temperature between 10°C and 19°C. This month there are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which the woody ornamental plant species are: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus parviflora, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Picea species, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Cycas revoluta, Phoenix canariensis, Yucca elephantipes, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Osmanthus fragrans, Hibiscus mutabilis, Ficus elastica, Schefflera octophylla, Ficus variegata, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pseudolarix amabilis, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Rhapis excelsa, Beaucarnea recurvata, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ficus pandurata, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, Adenium obesum, Zamia furfuracea, Garcinia subelliptica, Bambusa ventricosa, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Grevillea robusta, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Dracaena species, Murraya paniculata, Nandina domestica, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Salvia splendens, Canna generalis, Dahlia pinnata, Callistephus chinensis, Chrysanthemum morifolium, small chrysanthemum, Begonia maculata, snapdragon, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Capsicum annuum, Celosia cristata, Calendula officinalis, Catharanthus roseus, Gomphrena globosa, Petunia hybrida, Impatiens hawkeri, etc. Note: In North China, Northeast China, and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, pay attention to cold protection for southern flowers cultivated in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown are: Paeonia suffruticosa, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, Aesculus species, Calycanthus chinensis, Ardisia crenata, Sapindus mukorossi, Ilex kudingcha, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Viburnum tinus, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Phoenix roebelenii, Taxus chinensis, Livistona chinensis, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Cinnamomum camphora, Weigela florida, Trachycarpus fortunei, Taxodium distichum, etc. Among them, when sowing Aesculus species the hilum should face downward, and before sowing Calycanthus chinensis the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except that the seeds of Calycanthus chinensis and Weigela florida can be dry-stored until sowing the following spring, the other species can, after the seeds are cleaned, be stored with wet sand to promote germination until the seeds split and show white the following spring before sowing. Note that before storage and germination promotion the seeds should be rinsed clean; the water content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and breaks apart when released; the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown are: Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Papaver rhoeas, Calendula officinalis, Antirrhinum majus, Dianthus species, Viola tricolor, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Belamcanda chinensis, Silene armeria, Silene armeria, Eschscholzia californica, Bellis perennis, Rudbeckia hirta, Iris species, Verbena hybrida, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, Petunia hybrida, Pericallis hybrida, Primula obconica, Gerbera jamesonii, Calceolaria herbeohybrida, can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings are: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Schefflera octophylla, Cestrum nocturnum, Lantana camara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Mahonia species, Citrus medica, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia figo, Aucuba japonica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Gardenia jasminoides, Weigela florida, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hypericum monogynum, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Rosa chinensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Nerium oleander, Ficus carica, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice-hull ash, using fully closed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for the cuttings of some southern flowers and trees, when the Frost's Descent arrives, pay attention to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings are: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia maculata, Tradescantia zebrina, Epipremnum aureum, Pilea cadierei, Cyrtanthus species, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Odontonema strictum, Chrysanthemum morifolium, etc. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft Pinus parviflora (including Pinus parviflora 'Osaka') and Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera' with moisture retention; using peony roots as rootstock, graft superior varieties of Paeonia suffruticosa; using one-year-old Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum 'Dissectum' with moisture retention; using one-year-old Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana, Magnolia liliflora, etc.; using triangular cactus as rootstock, graft various cactus balls; using one-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft Fortunella margarita.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering are: Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Weigela florida, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'August', snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, Magnolia liliflora, Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum monogynum, Viburnum tinus, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Michelia figo, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, etc.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division are: Nandina domestica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia species, Paeonia suffruticosa, Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora', Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea species, Cycas revoluta, etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division are: Paeonia lactiflora, Hosta plantaginea, Cymbidium goeringii, Hosta ventricosa, Strelitzia reginae, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Ranunculus asiaticus, Rudbeckia laciniata, Iris species, Belamcanda chinensis, Convallaria majalis, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema commutatum, Oxalis triangularis, multi-headed green emperor, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Aspidistra elatior, etc. Flower species that can be propagated by dividing bulbs are: Zantedeschia aethiopica, Hippeastrum rutilum, Freesia refracta, Lycoris radiata, Tulipa gesneriana, Scilla peruviana, etc.

Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after the Frost's Descent arrives and the leaves fall, such as Hibiscus syriacus, Cercis chinensis, Amygdalus triloba, Punica granatum, Syringa oblata, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Magnolia liliflora, Prunus persica 'Duplex', longevity peach, Rosa hybrida, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, Nandina domestica, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Gardenia jasminoides, Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, etc., when transplanting, first, reduce and prune before transplanting; second, take a good soil ball; third, strengthen watering and misting management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted out are: Dianthus chinensis, Bellis perennis, Alcea rosea, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, Viola tricolor, Calendula officinalis, Verbena hybrida, Phlox drummondii, Antirrhinum majus, Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Reineckea carnea, etc. Bulbous flower species that can be ground-planted are: Narcissus tazetta, Narcissus poeticus, Tulipa gesneriana, Hyacinthus orientalis, etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year on the hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning are: Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea', Euonymus japonicus 'Aureus', Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Viburnum tinus, Ligustrum lucidum, Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum sinense, etc. Ball-shaped plants needing pruning are: Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Buxus sinica, Myrica rubra, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Photinia serratifolia, Pittosporum tobira, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc. For courtyard ground-planted flowers and trees that bloom continuously, such as Rosa chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Lantana camara, Bougainvillea spectabilis, etc., continue to cut off faded flowers and withered stems, and moderately reduce-prune the branches that have already flowered. For courtyard ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Gomphrena globosa, etc., promptly cut off the opened inflorescences to prompt the lateral shoots to continue producing flowers and blooming, thereby extending the viewing period.

    3. Watering. For courtyard flowers and trees newly planted this year, continue to do well the work of watering and misting: first, keep the root soil moist, but there must be no standing water; second, continue to mist the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do well the work of misting to retain moisture.

    4. Fertilizing. For courtyard ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, apply quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium; for Osmanthus fragrans types that have already flowered, open a ring-shaped trench and bury base fertilizer; for Rosa chinensis, Malus spectabilis, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus mutabilis, as well as Camellia japonica, Michelia figo, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., that have already been pruned, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for Nandina domestica, Pyracantha fortuneana, and in the south Citrus medica, Fortunella margarita, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Diospyros armata, etc., that are in the fruit-viewing state, appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which can effectively extend the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For the trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted Prunus mume, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus serrulata, Malus spectabilis, etc., continue to use poison sticks for control. For the fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them, and burn them. In the north, for the thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species whose seeds can be collected are: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus species, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia denudata, Manglietia species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia chapensis, Michelia champaca, Michelia foveolata, Michelia maudiae, Manglietia insignis, Michelia platypetala, Taxodium distichum, Rhapis excelsa, Ardisia crenata, Phoenix roebelenii, Livistona chinensis, Ilex kudingcha, Viburnum tinus, Cinnamomum camphora, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Viburnum macrocephalum, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Taxus chinensis, Camellia oleifera, etc.; these seeds must all be stored with wet sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored are: Lagerstroemia indica, Liriodendron chinense, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum, Pseudolarix amabilis, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Cryptomeria japonica, Sapium sebiferum, Albizia julibrissin, Koelreuteria paniculata, Hibiscus mutabilis, Choerospondias axillaris, Cercis chinensis, Camptotheca acuminata, Bischofia polycarpa, Acer truncatum, etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected are: Salvia splendens, Celosia cristata, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, Callistephus chinensis, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Callistephus chinensis, Impatiens balsamina, Mirabilis jalapa, Kochia scoparia, Helichrysum bracteatum, Cosmos bipinnatus, Cerastium tomentosum, Euphorbia heterophylla, Mimosa pudica, Desmodium gyrans, etc.

In addition, at the end of October for Canna indica, Dahlia pinnata, etc., when their aboveground parts are close to withering, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keep the room temperature no lower than 5°C, and cut and divide for planting again the following spring.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huaihe River the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as Ficus elastica, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, Epipremnum aureum, Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', red gem, etc., on sunny days water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species such as Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Clivia miniata, Portulacaria afra, Daphne odora, Pelargonium hortorum, Fuchsia hybrida, etc., increase the amount of watering. For Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, etc., that bloom in winter and early spring, control watering and mist more, to favor the enlargement of their flower buds. In northern regions, for flower species rather sensitive to cold, reduce watering, which can accelerate the lignification of their new shoots, favoring their safe overwintering. The best watering time is 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after the autumn cool, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pericallis hybrida, Primula malacoides, Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, Narcissus poeticus, etc., that bloom in winter or early spring, continue applying a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer, thereby increasing the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, lemon, Fortunella margarita, Nandina domestica, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, Diospyros armata, etc., in early to mid-October apply a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.

    3. Shading. For some very shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia species, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, green gem, Nephrolepis exaltata 'Bostoniensis', Peperomia species, etc., during the 2 to 3 hours around noon, shading is still needed.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid to late October, first cut off their dead branches and fallen leaves, pest-diseased branches, weak and thin branches, etc.; for leggy branches, carry out severe reduction pruning; for binding materials that have been shaping for 1 to 2 years, they can be untied, or retied after untying, to prevent long-term tying at a fixed position from injuring the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to wither and die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions in mid to late October, some ornamental plant species not tolerant of temperatures below 10°C can be moved into greenhouses in time; for some fairly cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or tree-stump bonsai, at the end of the month they can be buried and planted in wind-sheltered, sunny soil, to prevent the pot soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin region, accurately grasp weather change information and avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off the dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowers and trees, collect them uniformly, and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control pests such as aphids, chrysanthemum beetle, leaf-miner larvae, and inchworm.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    In early to mid-October on the balcony, there is still strong light and dry air; only those potted flowers and trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have fairly strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Fraxinus hupehensis, Ehretia microphylla, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Buxus sinica, Punica granatum, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Ficus pandurata, Ginkgo biloba, Rosa chinensis, Jasminum sambac, Aglaia odorata, Cycas revoluta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, Tamarix chinensis, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc. Some cold-intolerant southern flower and tree species, when the temperature drops to 10°C, can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary rooms at the beginning of the month, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Cattleya species, Phalaenopsis species, Oncidium species, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon and placed on the balcony at other times, such as Rhapis excelsa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Dracaena species, Schefflera octophylla, etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowers and trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, you can continue to use wide-mouthed large flower pots on the balcony as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of half rice-hull ash and half wet sand, or use vermiculite alone as the cutting substrate, cover with plastic film to retain moisture, and cutting-propagate a small number of ornamental plants, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Schefflera octophylla, Ficus elastica, Aucuba japonica, Michelia figo, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Aglaonema modestum, Cyrtanthus species, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Citrus medica, Aglaonema commutatum, Epipremnum aureum, Pelargonium hortorum, etc.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as Cycas revoluta, Ficus microcarpa, Ficus elastica, Schefflera octophylla, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, etc., water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for species that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, etc., watering should not be excessive, and at the same time mist the branches and leaves, which can effectively promote the enlargement of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, dwarf angel, Aspidistra elatior, Cordyline fruticosa, Asplenium nidus, Anthurium andraeanum, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea species, Epipremnum aureum, etc., all should mainly mist and secondarily water, so as to keep the pot soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, as well as Cymbidium hybridum, Bromeliaceae species, Cymbidium sinense, etc., apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for Citrus aurantium var. amara, Fortunella margarita, Fortunella hindsii, lemon, Nandina domestica, Diospyros armata, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, winter coral, etc., mainly for fruit viewing, continue applying a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, etc., in early October apply 1 to 2 times thin phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, to facilitate their smooth overwintering.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full light, in order to reduce the amount of watering, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the pot soil, and prevent the pot soil from compacting, continue to cover the surface of the pot soil with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc., and especially for shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, even more attention should be paid. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on fine days during the 3 to 4 hours around noon, they can be moved indoors. The shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid to late October, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Ehretia microphylla, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Juniperus chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Ligustrum lucidum, Fraxinus hupehensis, etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wire or non-metal wire that has been tied for more than a year, first untie it; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, change to a new binding position and tie it again for fixation, which can avoid excessively deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plant. For ordinary potted flowers and trees, such as Rosa chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, the dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree-stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunk, which can both protect the trunk xylem and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.
Flower Planting Manual (November)

    Weather characteristics of November: this month is the turn between autumn and winter; November 7 is the Start of Winter, the beginning of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow, and the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, while the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month flower and tree maintenance should attach importance to two aspects of work: first, carry out pruning and cleaning of ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewash trunks and remove pests, turn the soil and apply base fertilizer; second, for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic sheds, earnestly do well the work of cold protection and freeze protection. This month's flower care management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November are: Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, Begonia tuberhybrida, Cyclamen persicum, Gerbera jamesonii, Clivia miniata, Asparagus setaceus, Hosta plantaginea, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be sown as collected in November are: Spiraea cantoniensis, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina virginiana, Nageia nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sapindus mukorossi, Ardisia crenata (Ardisia crenata), Trachycarpus fortunei, Viburnum tinus, Photinia serratifolia, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be carried out, but plastic film mulching must be added; the main flower and tree species for heat preservation and cold protection are: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume (referring to varieties such as green calyx and palace pink), Rosa chinensis (referring to easy-to-root varieties such as Rosa hybrida and Elizabeth), Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November are: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Campsis grandiflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Serissa japonica, etc. Some of these root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flower and tree species that can be densely planted and cutting-propagated in greenhouses or plastic sheds in November are: Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Euonymus japonicus, Euonymus japonicus 'Variegatus', Pilea cadierei, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum patulum, Mahonia species, Serissa japonica 'Aureum', etc. If managed properly, complete root systems can grow the following spring, and they can be used for ground planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening forms. In winter in greenhouses, cuttings can also be propagated for Begonia maculata, Begonia species, Begonia species, Pelargonium hortorum, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia hybrida, Crassula ovata, Portulacaria afra, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, etc., and after spring begins they can be used for potting and cultivation.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of Hibiscus mutabilis, Campsis grandiflora, grape, etc. can also be cut and stored until spring the following year for cuttings, which can significantly speed up their rooting and increase the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Using green maple seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' and Acer palmatum 'Dissectum' indoors; using apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft Prunus mume (the graft union buried in soil to overwinter); using thick strong branches of Rosa chinensis (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock-scion, and branches of superior Rosa chinensis varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttings, so that the union heals and the lower cut end roots simultaneously, which can speed up the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of superior Rosa chinensis varieties.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering in November mainly are: Chaenomeles speciosa, Gardenia jasminoides, Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans', Punica granatum, Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Weigela florida, Osmanthus fragrans, Hydrangea macrophylla, Magnolia liliflora, Cupressus funebris, Michelia figo, Spiraea cantoniensis, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November are: Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Triarrhena, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum patulum, Mahonia species, Buddleja lindleyana, Paeonia suffruticosa, Caragana sinica, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum officinale, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bambusa multiplex, Bambusa species, etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of Dahlia pinnata, Canna indica, Canna generalis can be dug up, stored with sand until March the following spring, and then cut, divided, planted, and established.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division are: Bletilla striata, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Belamcanda chinensis, Iris species, ornamental Bromeliaceae, Liriope platyphylla, Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, Rohdea japonica, Aspidistra elatior, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November are: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Callistephus chinensis, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Abutilon species, etc.

    Flower and tree species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus taiwanensis, Pinus parviflora, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Chamaecyparis obtusa, Albizia julibrissin, Liquidambar formosana, Camptotheca acuminata, Eucommia ulmoides, Cornus alba, Sapium sebiferum, Wisteria sinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Caragana sinica, Spiraea cantoniensis. Flower and tree species that can be sown as collected or must be stored with wet sand are: Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Trachycarpus fortunei, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina virginiana, Sapindus mukorossi, Lycium chinense, Taxus chinensis, Magnolia grandiflora, Ilex chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Photinia serratifolia, Photinia davidsoniae, Rosa chinensis (used for cultivating rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and establishing. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted for flowerbed establishment and flower border arrangement in November are: Silene armeria, Dianthus chinensis, Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Viola tricolor var. hortensis, Antirrhinum majus, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, etc.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November are: Cinnamomum camphora, Magnolia grandiflora, Albizia julibrissin, Sapindus mukorossi, Ligustrum lucidum, Koelreuteria paniculata, Sapium sebiferum, Magnolia denudata, Osmanthus fragrans, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Aesculus species, Tilia species, Cercis gigantea, Liriodendron chinense, Magnolia soulangeana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Malus spectabilis, etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately reduced or cut back, and most leaves removed, the trunk bound well with straw rope, and a large soil ball taken (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), only then can their survival be ensured; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be cut back and the large branches trimmed, with a good soil ball taken and the trunk bound well. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk misting management must be strengthened, only then can they survive. In addition, the cut openings of the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or bound with plastic film, to prevent a large amount of water from evaporating from the tree body.

    In November, Prunus mume stumps, Chimonanthus praecox, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. can be transplanted and potted, placed in plastic sheds to force flowers, to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted Hyacinthus orientalis, Tulipa gesneriana, Narcissus poeticus, etc. should be moved into plastic sheds to prompt them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic sheds, or rooms, the specific standard for how much to water in November is to keep the pot soil moist, not overly wet; if the temperature is on the low side and too much is watered, the plants easily rot at the roots and die. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, then appropriately increase the amount of watering and give necessary misting of the leaves.

For those potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron species, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pericallis hybrida, etc., as well as fruit-viewing plants Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica, lemon, Pyracantha fortuneana, Nandina domestica, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, etc., not only keep the pot soil moist, but also must frequently mist the plants, to favor the enlargement and growth of the plants' flower buds, and can also make the fruits appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic sheds, greenhouses, and rooms, not only keep the pot soil moist, but also frequently mist the leaves, so that they always maintain a verdant and glossy leaf color. In greenhouses and rooms with relatively high temperatures, the amount of watering can be increased. For foliage plants that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, Dieffenbachia species, green emperor, Codiaeum variegatum, silver queen, etc., the amount of watering should be controlled, to favor their safe overwintering.

[page]    The watering time for potted flowers in November is best at 10 to 11 a.m., and it is required that the water temperature and soil temperature be basically the same, so as to avoid adverse reactions in the plants due to too low water temperature, and thereby affect their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors with a temperature above 15°C, species such as Rhododendron hybridum, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Daphne odora, Pericallis hybrida, Cyclamen persicum, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hyacinthus orientalis, Clivia miniata, Tulipa gesneriana, ornamental Bromeliaceae, Schlumbergera truncata, Vriesea species, etc., continue applying low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; using 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer liquid can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary plastic sheds, stop applying fertilizer, to favor their normal dormant overwintering. For most ground-planted flowers and trees, such as Malus species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia species, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia figo, Michelia foveolata, Gardenia jasminoides, Aesculus species, Cinnamomum camphora, Spiraea species, Osmanthus fragrans, grape, Rosa chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Prunus serrulata, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Trachycarpus fortunei, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Paeonia suffruticosa, Forsythia viridissima, Paeonia lactiflora, Hypericum monogynum, etc., bury and apply dry cake fertilizer, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant, less for small plants, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped forms that have not yet completed pruning; after pruning is completed, base fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned by cutting, carry out all-around shaping and pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Ehretia microphylla, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma congestum, Fraxinus hupehensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Serissa japonica, Juniperus chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chimonanthus praecox, Malus spectabilis, etc., laying a good skeleton for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted Rosa chinensis that has not yet been pruned; for each plant, except for retaining 3 to 5 robust 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base, and cut off all thin and weak branches; for unpruned ground-planted Lagerstroemia indica, carry out severe reduction pruning of the current year's branches; except for retaining 20 cm to 30 cm from the base of a few thick branches, cut off all the remaining current year's branches, to favor the production of more robust new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowers and trees on flowerbeds, roadside edges, and courtyards, such as Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus fragrans, Cinnamomum camphora, Platanus orientalis, Magnolia liliflora, Forsythia viridissima, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus serrulata, camellia, Albizia julibrissin, Pyracantha fortuneana, Pittosporum tobira, Malus spectabilis, etc., cut off all those misshapen branches, weak and thin branches, inner-canopy branches, pest-diseased branches, etc., and appropriately reduce-prune the leggy branches protruding from the crown. In addition, in November, the thick large palm trees can be stripped of their palm fiber, and the trunks cleaned well, so that they show their due ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For potted flower and tree species that are not very sensitive to cold, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron species, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nandina domestica, Araucaria heterophylla, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Aglaonema species, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica, lemon, Fortunella margarita, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera octophylla, Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Caryota mitis, Ficus elastica, Pachira aquatica, Phoenix canariensis, Rhapis excelsa, etc., they can be placed in plastic sheds, as long as the room temperature is maintained no lower than about 5°C.

For potted flowering plants that are not cold-tolerant, such as arrowroot (Calathea), pink tassel flower (Pink Fittonia), arrowhead vine (Syngonium), deep-lobed philodendron (Philodendron pinnatifidum), Aglaia odorata, croton (Codiaeum variegatum), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), Dracaena fragrans, red (green) gem, giant green (Philodendron 'Imperial Green'), green emperor (Philodendron 'Imperial Green'), silver queen (Aglaonema 'Silver Queen'), frangipani (Plumeria), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Dendrobium, etc., they should be placed indoors at a room temperature no lower than 10°C, or protected through the winter in a double-layer plastic greenhouse.

For those relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowering trees, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), crabapple varieties, rhododendron (Rhododendron simsii), pomegranate, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), boxwood (Buxus sinica), Sageretia thea, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Chinese cypress (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), red maple (Acer palmatum), etc., they can be buried together with their pots in wind-sheltered, sun-facing soil, and under conditions no lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, a plastic film or soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in greenhouses, conservatories or rooms in November, besides ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation work should also be done well. Doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent the plants from being stuffy indoors for a long time, which causes flower drop, fruit drop and leaf drop; in addition, no toxic gases such as coal gas should enter the room, otherwise it can also easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop in plants. When ventilating, care should also be taken never to let plants be directly hit by cold wind.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees prone to leaf diseases, such as grapes, crabapple varieties, roses, Chinese roses, camellias, chrysanthemums, etc., collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases the following year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dry-trunk style and split-trunk style stump bonsai, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the dry and split trunk parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep decay of the stump xylem.

For whiteflies, scale insects, etc. appearing on potted flowering trees placed in greenhouses or plastic tunnels (which may occur on bitter orange (Citrus aurantium 'Daidai'), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), orchids, camellias, clivia (Clivia miniata), and Aspidistra), first, wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second, spray with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (which may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium 'Daidai'), and Chinese roses), spraying tobacco water can be used for control.

For Belgian azaleas placed in plastic tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizer such as Yemianbao, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    The main types of bonsai plants suitable for shaping in November are: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese cypress (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), soft cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera), procumbent juniper (Juniperus procumbens), Euonymus pendulus, snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), oak (Quercus), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), evergreen (Ilex), boxwood (Buxus sinica), pearl boxwood (Buxus sempervirens), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), etc.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and hung with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when deep constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November, and the trunk and branches can be re-tied and adjusted.

For new stumps such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), water willow (Adina rubella), firethorn (Pyracantha), Elaeagnus, etc., after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting and branch pruning, plant them in sandy loam fields using the shallow-burial and high-mounding method, and shape them after they sprout branches the following year.

For stumps that have basically taken shape after 1 to 2 years of cultivation and shaping, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots and branches, suitable pots can be selected for repotting, and matched with fist stones and dotted with moss, so they can be displayed indoors around the Spring Festival.

For well-shaped tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), etc., suitable pots can be selected in November for potting, and water management can be strengthened, so they can be used for display in squares, parks and auditoriums the following spring.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, most parts of China enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south across China, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, with frequent heavy frost. This month, flower and tree maintenance should focus on three aspects of work: first, do a good job in heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees that have entered greenhouses, plastic tunnels and rooms; second, do a good job in pruning, cleaning and land turning and fertilizing for open-field flowers and trees; third, do a good job in preparing for composting organic fertilizer and mixing culture soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), clivia (Clivia miniata), tuberous begonia (Begonia tuberhybrida), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), African gerbera (Gerbera jamesonii), etc.; flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as 'Elizabeth'), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Ardisia crenata, evergreen species (Ilex), firethorn (Pyracantha), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), privet (Ligustrum), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), small-leaved privet (Ligustrum quihoui), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), photinia (Photinia), and Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flowering trees that can be propagated by open-field cuttings in December include: plum blossom (Prunus mume) (mainly cultivars such as 'Gongfen' and 'Lüe'); Chinese rose (mainly easy-to-root cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda roses, and miniature roses); red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) (heel cuttings), spiraea (Spiraea), boxwood species (Buxus), etc. Among them, plum blossom and red-leaf plum cuttings should use yellow heart soil, Chinese rose cuttings should use a mixed substrate of rice chaff ash and fine sand at 2:1, and other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film for heat and moisture preservation.

In greenhouses, African violets (Saintpaulia) can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), geranium (Pelargonium), orchid cactus (Epiphyllum), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), gem plant (Graptopetalum), stone lotus (Echeveria), purslane tree (Portulacaria afra), mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens), bamboo begonia (Begonia maculata), Rieger begonia (Begonia × hiemalis), Zhulan (Chloranthus spicatus), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), lantana (Lantana camara), schefflera (Schefflera octophylla), Daphne odora, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Cordyline fruticosa, etc. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be taken of gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), golden-hearted (golden-edged) boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), Hypericum, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), false cypress (Chamaecyparis), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), firethorn (Pyracantha), silver bud willow (Salix leucopithecia), Triadenum, etc. In addition, branches of Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), lilac (Syringa), grape, etc. can be cut and stored in sand, to be cuttings in spring the following year.

    3. Grafting. Excellent plum blossom cultivars, such as 'Guhong' and 'Zhusha', can be grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, peach, etc. sown that year; after digging up the rootstock, perform cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant them in the seedbed at a certain spacing between plants and rows, burying soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion; be careful not to let water seep into the graft union when watering, cover with plastic film for heat and moisture preservation, and remove the plastic film after the scion sprouts in the following spring. Use dug wild rose plants to bud-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars; or use healthy branch segments of the 'Elizabeth' Chinese rose cultivar (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose scions on the upper end, then plant the grafted 'Elizabeth' scion segments into a loose seedbed. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil; be careful not to let water seep into the graft union when watering, cover with plastic film for moisture and heat preservation, remove the plastic film after the scion sprouts in the following spring, and only after it has completely survived can a blade be used to cut the binding tape at the graft union. In addition, red maple can also be side-grafted indoors with bagging for moisture preservation.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), plum blossom (Prunus mume), camellia (Camellia japonica), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), Michelia figo, Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), weigela (Weigela florida), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia viridissima, hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), pomegranate, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), Reineckea carnea, hosta (Hosta plantaginea), purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), red wood sorrel (Oxalis articulata), Aspidistra elatior, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), iris (Iris), large-leaf lilyturf (Liriope muscari), Ophiopogon bodinieri, Rohdea japonica, mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), Aglaonema modestum. When cutting off the offsets from the base of a large variegated bromeliad (Neoregelia) for division, it must be a small plant that has grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise, the colored bands of the separated offset are likely to disappear, which should be given special attention.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Hypericum, mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), rhapis palm (Rhapis excelsa), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea japonica), Caragana sinica, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Jasminum officinale, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Zhulan (Chloranthus spicatus), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), sisal (Agave sisalana), phoenix bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), and Pleioblastus fortunei, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. The herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as salvia (Salvia splendens), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), clivia (Clivia miniata), etc. Clivia seeds should be sown immediately after collection.

    The main woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December are: Chinese rose, wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), privet (Ligustrum), small-leaved privet (Ligustrum quihoui), firethorn (Pyracantha), Ardisia crenata, evergreen species (Ilex), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), photinia species (Photinia). After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination, and only after the seeds crack and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground; under dry storage they easily lose vitality, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising the following year.

    2. Transplanting and field planting. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted in flower beds and flower borders in December include: dianthus species (Dianthus), ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea var. acephala), large-flowered pansy (Viola × wittrockiana), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), daisy (Bellis perennis), etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in plastic tunnels, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, dianthus, pansy, etc., and can be used for street display in spring the following year.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and field planted, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), pomegranate, redbud (Cercis chinensis), crabapple varieties, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), Magnolia × soulangeana, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), linden (Tilia), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), red maple (Acer palmatum), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), Chinese scholar tree (Sophora japonica), weeping pagoda tree (Sophora japonica var. pendula), etc. However, transplanting of evergreen trees and flowering shrubs should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet (Ligustrum), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), rhododendron (Rhododendron), evergreen (Ilex), etc. When transplanting, first heavily reduce and prune the main shoot and large branches, and remove most of the leaves; at the same time, bring a large soil ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, seal the cut ends of the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them in film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Stumps and flowering trees that can be potted in December include: plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) stumps, camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), and Hall crabapple (Malus halliana). Place them in plastic tunnels for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinths, tulips, red-cupped narcissus, etc. should continue to be kept in tunnels for flower forcing, which can promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In a simple plastic tunnel with a temperature no lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without frost damage, such as asparagus fern (Asparagus densiflorus), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Aspidistra elatior, Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), rhapis palm (Rhapis excelsa), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, firethorn (Pyracantha), camellia (Camellia japonica), Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, phoenix bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), Pleioblastus fortunei, sago palm (Cycas revoluta), etc.

For ornamental plant species requiring an overwintering temperature no lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), schefflera (Schefflera octophylla), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Michelia alba, Zhulan (Chloranthus spicatus), pocket coconut (Chamaedorea elegans), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), primrose (Primula), lantana (Lantana camara), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium 'Daidai'), lemon (Citrus limon), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), geranium (Pelargonium), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), etc., they can overwinter in a double-layer plastic tunnel. For species requiring an overwintering temperature no lower than 10°C, such as croton (Codiaeum variegatum), caladium (Caladium bicolor), pepperomia (Peperomia), arrowroot (Calathea), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), fishtail palm (Caryota mitis), Dracaena fragrans, money tree (Pachira aquatica), Fittonia, bromeliads, pink tassel flower (Pink Fittonia), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), Cymbidium hybridum, bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Dendrobium, South American cycad (Zamia), red (green) gem, Oncidium, Cymbidium hookerianum, etc., in a double-layer tunnel with good sealing performance, appropriate heating should also be provided; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, cover the top of the tunnel with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature turns warmer.

For those relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), crabapple varieties, rhododendron (Rhododendron simsii), pomegranate, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, oak (Quercus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), boxwood species (Buxus), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese cypress (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), red cypress (Juniperus virginiana), water willow (Adina rubella), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), and white wax (Fraxinus chinensis), when the temperature is no lower than -10°C, they generally will not freeze; in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or in rooms, bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage and fruit ornamental plants, besides maintaining the corresponding indoor temperature, should also be ventilated. Doors and windows can be opened for ventilation around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, care must also be taken not to let cold wind directly hit the plants, so as to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels and rooms, keep the pot soil moist as the standard; if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, it can easily cause root rot in plants. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give appropriate foliar spraying.

For those potted flowering plants that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), Belgian azalea, plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida), primrose (Primula), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), hyacinth, European narcissus, etc., and fruit ornamentals such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium 'Daidai'), lemon (Citrus limon), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), four-season orange (Citrus microcarpa), Fortunella hindsii, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Ardisia crenata, heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), etc., not only should the pot soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying must also be given, to facilitate the expansion of flower buds and also increase the brightness of flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, keep the pot soil moist and also give foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink tassel flower (Pink Fittonia), arrowhead vine (Syngonium), arrowroot (Calathea), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), silver queen (Aglaonema 'Silver Queen'), etc., when the room temperature is close to the lower limit of the minimum temperature they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    The watering time in December should preferably be the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by too-low water temperature.

For newly transplanted outdoor flowering trees, check frequently and supplement watering in time; for transplanted evergreen trees, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants and bonsai placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it can easily cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most of the greening trees and flowering trees planted in the ground, such as crabapple varieties, southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Manglietia, Michelia species, red maple (Acer palmatum), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), peony (Paeonia lactiflora), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum, grape, Chinese rose, spiraea (Spiraea), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), mock orange (Philadelphus), deutzia (Deutzia), pomegranate, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), lilac (Syringa), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), banksia rose (Rosa banksiae), Hypericum, weeping willow (Salix babylonica), Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica), deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara), cypress species, dragon-claw pagoda tree (Sophora japonica var. pendula), flowering almond (Prunus triloba), dwarf flowering cherry (Prunus japonica), white silk plum (Exochorda racemosa), photinia (Photinia), redbud (Cercis chinensis), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), etc., while turning the garden soil in December, fertilizer can be buried around the outer perimeter of the plant root system, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, septic tank residue, etc., laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), rhododendron (Rhododendron), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), bromeliads, Daphne odora, cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida), primrose (Primula), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), hyacinth, clivia (Clivia miniata), tulip, freesia (Freesia), etc., continue topdressing with 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution to promote bud formation and flowering of the plants.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls and ball-shaped topiary that were not pruned in November. Hedges and green walls include privet (Ligustrum), small-leaved privet (Ligustrum quihoui), evergreen (Ligustrum sinense), large-leaved boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', four-season osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), Photinia davidsoniae, etc.; ball-shaped plants include Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), bayberry (Myrica rubra), photinia (Photinia), boxwood species (Buxus), pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), Forsythia viridissima, firethorn (Pyracantha), dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca'), prickly cypress (Juniperus rigida), etc. While completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For ground-planted flowering trees that were not pruned in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), photinia (Photinia), plane tree (Platanus orientalis), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), etc., carry out shaping and pruning; after pruning is finished, fertilizer can be buried around the root system.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), oak (Quercus), white wax (Fraxinus chinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese cypress (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), crabapple, papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), etc., continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be combined with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grapes, crabapple varieties, roses, Chinese roses, camellias, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), etc., collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases the following year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida) and gray mold on primrose (Primula), the former should be controlled promptly with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For flower and tree species in greenhouses and plastic tunnels that are prone to scale insects, such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium 'Daidai'), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), camellia (Camellia japonica), Aspidistra elatior, etc., first wipe them with a cloth, then control with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flower and tree species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium 'Daidai'), Chinese rose, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), etc., tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-field cultivated flowering trees such as pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), plane tree (Platanus orientalis), camellia (Camellia japonica), small-leaved privet (Ligustrum quihoui), firethorn (Pyracantha), oleander (Nerium oleander), crabapple, white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), redbud (Cercis chinensis), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara), photinia (Photinia), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), etc., various scale insects often appear, such as horned wax scale (Ceroplastes ceriferus), Japanese wax scale (Ceroplastes japonicus), red wax scale (Ceroplastes rubens), armored scale (Diaspididae), arrowhead scale (Unaspis yanonensis), mealybug (Pseudococcidae), and felt scale (Eriococcidae), etc. At this time, spray with higher-concentration pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin, and phytotoxicity is rarely produced.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of seedling raising and culture soil preparation next year, the winter leisure time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into water vats or pools, add water and seal for soaking, composting and fermentation.

Stack dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, branches, etc. in alternating layers with garden soil, set on fire and burn to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken manure and pigeon droppings, etc. with garden soil for composting, seal and ferment, and it can be used for topdressing seedlings and preparing culture soil the following year.

    7. Preparing culture soil. Use the winter free time to find an open space or under tree shade, and pile up as much culture soil as possible, to prepare for repotting and potting herbaceous flowers in spring the following year. Generally, use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder or rice chaff ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots and other debris, mix them thoroughly, cover with plastic film, or pile them indoors; after 3 to 4 months, they can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning the soil and freezing clods. For garden land to be used for sowing, cuttings and planting seedlings next year, plowing can be done in December; for garden land for sowing and planting seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, etc. can be applied before turning the soil; without making beds for the time being, after overwintering and freezing clods, trenches can be drawn and beds made in early spring the following year, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), false cypress (Chamaecyparis), Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), Chinese cypress (Juniperus chinensis), soft cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera), Oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), creeping juniper (Juniperus procumbens), Japanese juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku'), Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Japanese red pine (Pinus densiflora), water willow (Adina rubella), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), evergreen (Ilex), Euonymus pendulus, ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), Caragana sinica, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, trident maple (Acer buergerianum), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), papaya crabapple (Chaenomeles speciosa), boxwood (Buxus sinica), pearl boxwood (Buxus sempervirens), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), white wax (Fraxinus chinensis), oak (Quercus), etc.

For bonsai plants that have been shaped and fixed with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixation has lasted for one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be removed, and metal wire or palm rope should be used again for hanging, tying and pulling.

For ground-planted plum stumps, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), crabapple, ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), etc. that have already been shaped, after some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so they can be used for display in public places or rooms the following year.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and stump bonsai, careful management must be carried out: first, prevent the pot soil from freezing and damaging the plant root system; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating the artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent the plants planted on the rockery from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperature and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, around the "Sanjiu" period, and most parts of China enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, with cold air from the north frequently moving south, heavy frost and thick snow, and the lowest temperature of the year appears. This month's flower maintenance, most importantly, is to do a good job in heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, etc. in greenhouses, plastic tunnels and rooms; next is auxiliary work such as tree pruning, cleaning of dead branches and fallen leaves, turning and preparing land, and preparing culture soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), clivia (Clivia miniata), tuberous begonia (Begonia tuberhybrida), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), African gerbera (Gerbera jamesonii), etc. Ornamental plant species that can be sown in open fields outdoors include: Chinese rose ('Elizabeth'), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Ardisia crenata, evergreen (Ilex), firethorn (Pyracantha), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), photinia (Photinia), Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), privet (Ligustrum), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), etc.

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-field or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: plum blossom (Prunus mume) (cultivars such as 'Lüe' and 'Gongfen'), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), Chinese rose (cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda, and miniature), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) (heel cuttings), spiraea (Spiraea), boxwood species (Buxus), pomegranate, silver bud willow (Salix leucopithecia), mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), Triadenum, Hypericum, Forsythia viridissima, spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Jasminum officinale, etc. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Zhulan (Chloranthus spicatus), geranium (Pelargonium), fuchsia (Fuchsia), African violet (Saintpaulia) (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), gem plant (Graptopetalum), jade leaf (Portulacaria afra), jade tree (Crassula ovata), stone lotus (Echeveria), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), orchid cactus (Epiphyllum), clearweed (Pilea cadierei), mirror grass (Pilea peperomioides), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), Rieger begonia (Begonia × hiemalis), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), schefflera (Schefflera octophylla), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Daphne odora, red-backed excoecaria (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), Aglaonema modestum, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Cordyline fruticosa, etc. In addition, branches of lilac (Syringa), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), grape, Weigela coraeensis, deutzia (Deutzia), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), plane tree (Platanus), fig (Ficus carica), etc. can be cut and stored in sand, to be cuttings in March.

    3. Grafting. Excellent plum blossom cultivars can be propagated by rootstock grafting using one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach, and wild peach as rootstocks; after grafting, bury and plant them in the seedbed, cover with plastic film for moisture and cold protection. In Guangdong, between Minor Cold and Major Cold, budding is often used to propagate four-season orange (Citrus microcarpa), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), etc.; use dug wild roses to bud-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars, use the 'Elizabeth' Chinese rose cultivar as the rootstock scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars, with grafting and cutting carried out simultaneously, cover with plastic film for moisture and cold protection.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), camellia (Camellia japonica), plum blossom (Prunus mume), weigela (Weigela florida), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia viridissima, hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), pomegranate, red maple (Acer palmatum), etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), large-leaf lilyturf (Liriope muscari), silver-edged lilyturf (Liriope), Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), pink zephyr lily (Zephyranthes rosea), hosta (Hosta plantaginea), purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), purple-backed Rhoeo (Tradescantia spathacea), Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), iris (Iris), spider plant (Chlorophytum), Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema modestum, mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), bromeliads, small tulip (Tulipa), shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet), Monstera deliciosa, aloe (Aloe), etc. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Hypericum, mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), rhapis palm (Rhapis excelsa), spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea japonica), Caragana sinica, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Jasminum officinale, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Zhulan (Chloranthus spicatus), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Triadenum, boxwood (Buxus), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), etc.

    6. Collecting seeds. In January, if there are mature seeds of asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus) and clivia (Clivia miniata) in the greenhouse, they can be sown immediately after collection; mature winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum) seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), firethorn (Pyracantha), evergreen species (Ilex), Ardisia crenata, etc. can be collected; after treatment, carry out sand stratification for germination, and only after the seeds crack and show white can they be sown.

    In January, frequently check the seeds stored in sand, including Magnolia species, Michelia species, Photinia species, Ilex species, etc., to see whether the seeds have molded. If mold appears, the seeds must be poured out, rubbed and washed again, and replaced with clean fine sand for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, supplement with spraying water in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has emerged, they must be sown immediately, and covered with plastic film or rice straw, pine needles, etc. for heat and moisture preservation.

II. Transplanting and Field Planting

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and field planted in less cold areas include: dianthus species (Dianthus), ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea var. acephala), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), daisy (Bellis perennis), etc.; in relatively cold areas, seedlings of dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), pansy (Viola × wittrockiana), primrose (Primula), etc. can be potted and first placed in simple plastic tunnels, and after spring returns and the weather warms, used for display in street flower beds, green spaces and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and field planted, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), pomegranate, redbud (Cercis chinensis), crabapple varieties, ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), maple species (Acer), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), Magnolia × soulangeana, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), linden (Tilia), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea japonica), Triadenum, Chinese rose, Chinese scholar tree (Sophora japonica), dragon-claw pagoda tree (Sophora japonica var. pendula), etc. Evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), evergreen (Ligustrum sinense), etc., this month, except in special circumstances, should generally be transplanted earlier in December or delayed to February; of course, in wind-sheltered places, with heavy reduction pruning after transplanting and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during the land preparation process for forestry afforestation, mainly deciduous stumps, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, trident maple (Acer buergerianum), rhododendron (Rhododendron simsii), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Japanese maple (Acer palmatum), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), wild plum (Prunus mume), Elaeagnus, Euonymus pendulus, etc.; for evergreen stumps, such as heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), cat's thorn (Ilex cornuta), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), evergreen (Ilex), oak (Quercus), etc., heavy reduction pruning must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous stumps or evergreen stumps, the shallow-burial and high-mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains should be added for freeze protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management work; a slight negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the minimum temperature that various flower species can tolerate, create a special environment for safe overwintering, either in a greenhouse, in a plastic tunnel, indoors, or buried in open-field soil. In a simple plastic tunnel with a temperature no lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 0°C can be placed, such as asparagus fern (Asparagus densiflorus), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Aspidistra elatior, Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), rhapis palm (Rhapis excelsa), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Aucuba japonica, Michelia figo, Cymbidium goeringii, Dendrobium, Ardisia crenata, Daphne odora, sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Acorus calamus, phoenix bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), Pleioblastus fortunei, etc. In a double-layer plastic tunnel with a temperature no lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Zhulan (Chloranthus spicatus), Michelia alba, pocket coconut (Chamaedorea elegans), bottle orchid (Aglaonema), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, kumquat (Fortunella margarita), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium 'Daidai'), lemon (Citrus limon), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), orchid cactus (Epiphyllum), Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), lantana (Lantana camara), etc. In a double-layer plastic tunnel or greenhouse with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can tolerate low temperatures around 10°C can be placed, such as croton (Codiaeum variegatum), caladium (Caladium bicolor), arrowhead vine (Syngonium), arrowroot (Calathea), bromeliads, pepperomia (Peperomia), coleus (Coleus), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), fishtail palm (Caryota mitis), Dracaena fragrans, money tree (Pachira aquatica), Fittonia, red (green) gem, giant green (Philodendron 'Imperial Green'), green emperor (Philodendron 'Imperial Green'), silver queen (Aglaonema 'Silver Queen'), Aglaia odorata, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, South American cycad (Zamia), desert rose (Adenium obesum), pink tassel flower (Pink Fittonia), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), coral flower (Jatropha multifida), etc. During particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, it is advisable to cover the top of the tunnel with straw curtains, and stop covering with straw curtains only after the temperature turns warmer. On very cold days, strengthen inspections of heating facilities and personnel on duty, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise it can easily cause frost damage to plants. For those relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), crabapple varieties, rhododendron (Rhododendron simsii), pomegranate, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, oak (Quercus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), boxwood species (Buxus), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese cypress (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), summer cypress (Kochia scoparia), Oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), small bayberry (Myrica), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), evergreen (Ilex), white wax (Fraxinus chinensis), etc., they can be buried together with the flower pots in the soil; when the temperature is no lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur, and in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or homes, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, besides maintaining the corresponding air temperature, ventilation work should also be done well. Doors and windows can be opened for ventilation around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold wind directly hitting the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and plastic tunnels during each cold air southward movement. If broken glass, torn film, etc. are found, block and repair them in time to prevent potted flowers from freezing. When supplying coal, gas, or oil heating to greenhouses, also check carefully to ensure no leaking gas or smoke enters the greenhouse or plastic tunnel, so as to prevent smoke damage, etc. from causing flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop.

To force tree peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa) to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 hours of additional light each day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), etc. can also be placed in a plastic tunnel at about 15°C for flower forcing, with appropriately increased light duration, to meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, red-cupped narcissus, freesia (Freesia), etc. that have been placed in the greenhouse in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    For the watering management of potted flowers in January, first and most importantly, attention should be paid to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature; if the difference between the two is too large, it can easily cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and even cause leaf drop, root rot or death of the plants. The watering time is best arranged in the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels and rooms, keep the pot soil moist as appropriate; when the temperature is low, reduce watering accordingly; when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give foliar spraying. For most foliage plants, keep the pot soil moist and also pay attention to foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean. For less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink tassel flower (Pink Fittonia), arrowhead vine (Syngonium), arrowroot (Calathea), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), etc., when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the minimum temperature the plant can tolerate, especially control the amount of watering. For those potted flowers that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), Belgian azalea, poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), primrose (Primula), hyacinth, kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), etc., and fruit ornamentals such as firethorn (Pyracantha), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium 'Daidai'), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), Ardisia crenata, kumquat (Fortunella margarita), Fortunella hindsii, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), etc., not only should the pot soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water, to facilitate the expansion of flower buds and also increase the bright colors of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in remote locations from lacking water, and supplement watering in time for plants whose pot soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and supplement watering in time; especially for transplanted evergreen ornamental plants, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off due to overly dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most ground-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapple varieties, white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Magnolia × soulangeana, Manglietia, Michelia species, maple species (Acer), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), linden (Tilia), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), schima (Schima superba), Machilus, purple tree (Nyssa sinensis), happy tree (Camptotheca acuminata), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), Forsythia viridissima, boxwood (Buxus), grape, coral tree (Viburnum odoratissimum), Chinese rose, hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), dwarf flowering cherry (Prunus japonica), flowering almond (Prunus triloba), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), deutzia (Deutzia), mock orange (Philadelphus), banksia rose (Rosa banksiae), Elaeocarpus, golden silk willow (Salix × aureo-pendula), weeping elm (Ulmus pumila var. pendula), Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica), Taiwan cedar (Taiwania cryptomerioides), deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara), Chinese scholar tree (Sophora japonica), dragon-claw pagoda tree (Sophora japonica var. pendula), white silk plum (Exochorda racemosa), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), lilac (Syringa), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), photinia (Photinia), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), purple bamboo (Bambusa multiplex f. alphonso-karrii), pomegranate, loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), etc., if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. around the outer perimeter of the tree root system, laying a material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in a greenhouse at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), Daphne odora, cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida), primrose (Primula), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), red-cupped narcissus, Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), hyacinth, tulip, multicolor bromeliad, clivia (Clivia miniata), bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), etc., continue topdressing with low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution, to facilitate plant growth and bud formation and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants and bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, since the plants are in a dormant state in winter, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it can easily cause root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

Continue pruning hedges, green walls and ball-shaped plants that were not pruned in December; continue pruning flowering shrubs that were not pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), banksia rose (Rosa banksiae), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), floribunda rose, camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), plane tree (Platanus orientalis), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), photinia (Photinia), pomegranate, red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), grape, etc.; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer perimeter of the root system to meet the needs of spring growth.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned and supplemented by tying, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), oak (Quercus), white wax (Fraxinus chinensis), water willow (Adina rubella), Elaeagnus, firethorn (Pyracantha), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), prickly cypress (Juniperus rigida), etc., continue to adjust and prune according to the original composition requirements, the development and change trends of the plant trunk and branches, and personal aesthetic tastes, laying a good foundation for spring growth and shaping. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For main trunks or large branches of crabapple varieties, plum blossom varieties, Prunus species, papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), etc. that have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles, etc., they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches burned.

Clean up the leaves under Chinese roses, roses, grapes, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), etc., gather and burn them in a concentrated manner, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases the following year.

For horned wax scale (Ceroplastes ceriferus), Japanese wax scale (Ceroplastes japonicus), red wax scale (Ceroplastes rubens), cottony cushion scale (Icerya purchasi), armored scale (Diaspididae), arrowhead scale (Unaspis yanonensis), mealybug (Pseudococcidae), and soft scale (Coccidae), etc. appearing on the trunks and branches of pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), plane tree (Platanus orientalis), privet (Ligustrum), firethorn (Pyracantha), persimmon (Diospyros kaki), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), photinia (Photinia), etc., spray with high-concentration Supracide, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime-sulfur mixture, etc., which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida) in greenhouses and gray mold that easily appears on primrose (Primula) leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on plants such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium 'Daidai'), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), and kumquat (Fortunella margarita) in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insects attached to the dry branches with a damp cloth, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) plants in greenhouses, spray with 50% iprodione (main component iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into water pools or vats for soaking and fermentation, so as to be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; stack withered grass, branches, fallen leaves, etc. in alternating layers with garden soil, set on fire and burn to make burned soil, which can be used as covering soil for sowing and seedling raising in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond mud, tobacco powder, chicken manure and pigeon droppings, etc. with garden soil for composting and fermentation, which can be used as fertilizer for preparing culture soil.

IX. Plowing and Freezing Clods

For nursery land that was not turned and reclaimed in December, seize the time to plow in early January; while plowing the garden land, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, farmyard manure, etc., and after overwintering and freezing clods, draw trenches and make beds in early spring, for use in sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is particularly cold, plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good toughness, and easy shaping operations, such as Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese cypress (Juniperus chinensis), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), boxwood (Buxus sinica), soft cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera), Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), creeping juniper (Juniperus procumbens), Japanese juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku'), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Huangshan pine (Pinus hwangshanensis), Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii), water willow (Adina rubella), Caragana sinica, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Euonymus pendulus, banyan (Ficus microcarpa), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), etc. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in a simple plastic tunnel, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms, which is beneficial for the healing of parts that may have been damaged during shaping.

For plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago with coir rope or metal wire, if the binding area shows obvious sunken constriction marks, the original binding material should be untied and the plant re-wired and trained.

    In January, strict management should be strengthened for some shallow-pot stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried on indoor sand beds; for stump bonsai, prevent the pot soil from freezing, which can damage the plant's fibrous roots and may cause the artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate. Also prevent plants grown on small rocks from dying after freezing. They should be placed in a location where it does not freeze, and watered and misted regularly to ensure they can safely overwinter.