How to care for gloxinia in winter? Dig out the tubers and plant them again in spring

Keeping a pot of gloxinia at home is what many people do nowadays, but when winter comes, once the temperature drops below 5°C, the plant enters dormancy, and care at this time requires special attention, otherwise it is very easy to run into all kinds of problems with the plant. So how does gloxinia get through the winter? How to care for gloxinia in winter? Today the editor will solve this troublesome matter for everyone.

1. How gloxinia gets through the winter depends on the temperature

In the methods for growing gloxinia, it has been introduced that its most suitable growing temperature is 10-25°C, of which January to October is 18-22°C, and October to the following January is 10-12°C, and when the temperature is below 5°C, gloxinia stops growing. So how does gloxinia get through the winter? According to its growth habits, we have to look at the grower's care environment, in simple terms, at the temperature.

2. How to care for gloxinia in winter

(1) Getting through the winter safely

When winter comes, temperatures everywhere are very low, generally below 5°C, so under normal circumstances gloxinia enters dormancy. At this time, no matter how it is cared for, gloxinia will not grow, so the gloxinia can be stored. The specific method is as follows:

1. Dig out the tubers

Many people do not know what to do when winter comes after planting gloxinia. Actually it is very simple: you just need to dig out the gloxinia's tubers, put them in a ventilated and dry place, store them and wait for them to dry naturally, or wrap them in paper with good water absorbency.

2. Plant them in spring

When spring comes, the temperature rises, and at this time you can take out the gloxinia tubers and plant them again. Then water them, and gradually they will sprout.

(2) Getting through the winter normally

If you do not want to take the route of storing the tubers, you can also give no special treatment. However, you must be careful with watering: it cannot be too much, and the potting soil must be kept dry at all times to prevent rotting in a cold and damp environment. During winter dormancy, move the pot to a ventilated, semi-shaded place, and let it get some sun only when the sunlight is not strong.

(3) Getting through the winter warmly

How to care for gloxinia in winter? If there is heating at home, or if the local temperature in winter is relatively warm, gloxinia will not go dormant, and it will even continue to bloom. When caring for it at this time, just follow the usual methods, but water a little less, as too much water easily causes root rot.

Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key Points for Spring Flower Planting

Flower Planting Manual (February Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and also the coldest period of the year after January. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition toward spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to the recovery stage. This month's flower work mainly includes the following aspects: first, continue doing a good job of cold protection and heat preservation for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job of post-bloom pruning and repotting for some woody flowers; third, do the preparatory work for cuttings, grafting propagation and sowing propagation for some flower species.

   1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February include: pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, asparagus fern, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, Carthamus tinctorius, cornflower, gaillardia, strawflower, scarlet sage, marigold, petunia, California poppy, phlox, calceolaria, Schizanthus, snapdragon, nasturtium, pansy, etc. Those that can be sown outdoors in the open field at the end of February include: seeds of magnolia, Michelia, Photinia, Acer, and Malus (Rosaceae) that have been sand-stored and have already cracked and shown white, as well as camphor tree, Chinese tulip tree, privet, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, palm, goldenrain tree, soapberry, horse chestnut, lilac, etc.; seeds of wintersweet, Calycanthus, wisteria, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by outdoor cuttings in February or by cuttings with plastic film mulching to retain moisture include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches of cultivars such as Gongfen and Lü'e), nandina, cotton rose (southern regions), crape myrtle, Daphne, edgeworthia, pomegranate, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Jasminum, Serissa, hibiscus, Hypericum (mei), spirea, Mahonia, boxwood species, Lespedeza, etc. Sand-stored branches of lilac and trumpet vine can also be used for cuttings at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela, Deutzia, hydrangea, tamarisk, plane tree, grape, fig, etc. can still continue to be cut and stored for cuttings at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by indoor cuttings in February include: Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), Begonia maculata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, scarlet sage, geranium, jasmine, Chloranthus, finger citron, jade plant, jade leaf, Echeveria, Graptopetalum, Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, Pilea, Kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera, Aglaonema, Cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, using one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock, graft Japanese white pine, lacebark pine, etc., then plant in the ground and cover with film to keep warm and moist. Using one-year-old apricot and wild peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on wintersweet branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use wintersweet seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock, and cut-graft excellent cultivars such as "Suxin", "Xinkou" and "Huti" wintersweet, adopting bagging and inflation measures to retain moisture, which gives a relatively high survival rate. Using robust branches of the "Elizabeth" rose cultivar as rootstock scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft scions of excellent rose cultivars, and adopt the measures of grafting first, then cuttings, then covering with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold, which can greatly increase the grafting survival rate.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chaenomeles speciosa, osmanthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, Weigela,Podocarpus macrophyllus, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum, hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, red maple, Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: iris, blackberry lily, autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, variegated lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, bleeding heart, hosta, purple hosta, bromeliads, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, spider plant species, Kalanchoe, canna, Calathea, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium, Strelitzia, Clivia, aloe, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: nandina, cotton rose, Hypericum, Mahonia, hydrangea, Chaenomeles speciosa, edgeworthia, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Spiraea thunbergii, red-flowered spirea, jasmine, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, purple magnolia, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', bamboo species such as Phyllostachys, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds of nandina, holly species, Ardisia crenata, winter coral, etc. can be picked, and after treatment they are sand-stored to promote germination; sowing can be done only after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For Clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking the various sand-stored flower and tree seeds to see whether any seeds have become moldy; if mold occurs, clean them promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with spraying water to maintain a certain humidity for the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, sow them in a relatively short time, because once the radicle extends too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle and affect the seed emergence rate. Large sand-stored seeds can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows; after sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and the temperature is relatively high, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out include: Dianthus species, snapdragon, hollyhock, variegated holly, daisy, pot marigold, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be planted out. Among the deciduous types are hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, Malus species, ginkgo, sweetgum, Acer species, wisteria, crape myrtle, wintersweet, plum blossom (before sprouting and leafing out), magnolia species, soapberry, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, trumpet vine, linden, Chinese tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, spirea, Deutzia, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, dwarf cherry, Hypericum (mei), weeping willow, golden weeping willow, cotton rose, smoke tree, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia species, camphor tree, Elaeocarpus, Ligustrum quihoui, Machilus, Phoebe sheareri, etc. can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; osmanthus, privet, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, oriental arborvitae, black pine, etc., when planted, should be given moderate pruning.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold, and after two consecutive months of indoor (or tunnel) care, potted ornamental plants have consumed relatively more nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the plants has greatly declined, so work to retain moisture and protect against cold should continue carefully. Greenhouses or plastic tunnels with heating facilities should continue to be heated, and harmful gases or smoke should be prevented from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; where straw curtains are hung at the top or around the tunnel, the straw curtains can continue to be hung; when encountering sudden temperature drops after snow, even more care should be taken.

Overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities should continue to be ventilated, especially by the end of February, when ventilation time can be extended during the period of highest temperature in the day. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to put them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For the small number of cold-sensitive flowers grown at home, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea, Syngonium, Begonia masoniana, croton, Dieffenbachia, etc., in particularly cold weather, plastic bags can be put over them at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom with heating appliances such as a "bath heater" turned on to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. In February, because the temperature is relatively low, for the vast majority of potted flowers, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low; once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor spaces, frequently spray water and mist on the leaves to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color, flower buds to stop growing, and in severe cases leaves to shrivel and wrinkle and flower buds to shrink and drop; for camellia, camellia sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, bitter orange, kumquat, winter coral, etc., bud drop and fruit drop may all occur, and even plant death. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor or tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, camellia, camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, pot marigold, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as firethorn, nandina, bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, Ardisia crenata, four-season mandarin, winter coral, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, buds and fruits, so that the leaves can be green, the flower buds can rapidly expand, and the fruits can be brightly colored. Especially for tree peonies, plum blossoms, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. placed in tunnels for forcing, branches must also be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For Cymbidium orchids purchased after being grown in greenhouse tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse tunnel differ greatly from those in the home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often shrivel and dry out. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., the potting soil must be kept moist and the plants sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    Although in February the vast majority of potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened, especially during several consecutive days of continuous temperature rise, when supplementary watering and spraying should be promptly strengthened.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, water should be supplemented promptly; especially for those evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, leaf spraying should also be appropriately given around noon on clear days to prevent the leaves from shriveling and dropping afterward and affecting recovery growth in spring.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, base fertilizer can continue to be buried for most greening trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc.; these can be applied by digging ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant root system and then covering with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, camellia sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, gold shrimp plant, Daphne, plum blossom, European daffodil, hyacinth, tulip, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, bromeliads, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia, etc., low-concentration monopotassium phosphate can continue to be applied as a supplementary fertilizer to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and stump bonsai placed in tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilizing should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.

    4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted plum blossoms, wintersweet, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, strong renewal pruning can be carried out; for branches that have bloomed, except for retaining 2 to 3 buds at the base, all the rest should be cut off, to encourage more new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the next year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For stump bonsai types mainly shaped by pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Zelkova, ficus, trident maple, Fujian tea, oak, Fraxinus, water willow, Elaeagnus, holly, wintergreen, Serissa, juniper, Chinese juniper, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repotting can be given at the same time as pruning.

    5. Repotting. Late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end and the root system is recovering growth while the leaf buds have not yet emerged. Flower species that can be repotted in late February include: Chinese hibiscus, geranium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus, two-color jasmine, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, sword fern, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, fuchsia, Begonia maculata, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia rex, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, sago palm, Clivia, Haworthia, aloe, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Sedum, jade plant, jade leaf, kalanchoe, amaryllis, asparagus fern, spider plant, Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, Rohdea japonica, Strelitzia, shrimp plant, gold shrimp plant, Justicia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, camellia, camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, hydrangea, nandina, croton, Syngonium, Calathea, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, bitter orange, kumquat, finger citron, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold appearing on primrose leaves, at the early stage of the disease choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution and spray, once every 10 days, for 2 to 3 consecutive sprays.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted cyclamen in tunnels, 50% iprodione (main component iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution can be sprayed.

For potted Belgian azaleas in tunnels, foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao" should be stopped, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer is difficult for the plant to absorb; on the contrary, it easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as bitter orange and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush, and when there are many insects they can be killed by spraying 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution. After aphids, scale insects and ants are killed, sooty mold will also be eliminated along with them.

For insect bodies such as, white peach scale, oystershell scale, and black round scale appearing on potted flower plants in tunnels, they can be brushed off with a stiff brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or sprayed with 2.5% lambda-cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% aldicarb granules in the flowerpot.

Continue clearing dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted plants, and burn them in a concentrated manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the next year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and seal for fermentation, so that it can be diluted during the growing season and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc.; after about 2 months spread it out to dry in the sun, and after fully drying, pack it well in plastic bags; the thoroughly composted and dried cake fertilizer in granular powder form can be scattered in flowerpots as a topdressing; for Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya and other potted flower types, it is more convenient than watering with liquid cake fertilizer, especially when growing flowers on a balcony, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used for mixing potting soil.

    8. Turning and freezing the soil. In early February, garden plots that have not yet been plowed can continue to be turned; after overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, trenches can then be opened and beds made for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, juniper, oriental arborvitae, Shimpaku, ginkgo, Serissa, Juniperus procumbens, Japanese white pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water willow, Caragana, wintersweet, Chaenomeles speciosa, crape myrtle, ficus, Ulmus parvifolia, trident maple, etc.

Continue re-wiring and adjusting plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago; if the plant is found to have sunken binding constriction marks, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, then replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue doing a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing, cracking and disintegrating, causing losses that should not occur.

Flower Planting Manual (March Chapter)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the area in front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain degree, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively sun-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, ginkgo, osmanthus, purple magnolia, Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, persimmon, cotton rose, Chinese tulip tree, plum blossom, rose, fig, camellia, crape myrtle, tree peony, pomegranate, wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, nandina, red maple, redbud, hibiscus, Canary Island date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, then you should choose some flower and tree species adapted to shady and damp conditions, such as palm, Photinia, Aucuba, French holly, privet, Mahonia bealei, southern magnolia, camphor tree, dragon juniper, Elaeocarpus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis, cedar, wintersweet, banana, clustered bamboo, etc. No matter how much light or how dry or wet your courtyard is, when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees the following points should be noted: first, the lowest temperature the flower or tree can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid freezing damage; second, it should be adapted to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid incompatibility; third, it should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and an auspicious flower name; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, and a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to obstruct the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that may cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-specification plants, so that greening and beautifying effects can be obtained earlier, such as ginkgo, Japanese fir, osmanthus, plum blossom, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc., whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some idle space for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many types of herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include Dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, scarlet sage, cockscomb, globe amaranth, marigold, hollyhock, Impatiens, lupine, daisy, pot marigold, corn poppy, autumn zephyr lily, dahlia, etc. Relatively shade-tolerant herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant types include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, Lycoris, Rohdea japonica, Tradescantia spathacea, Aspidistra, iris, Acorus, saxifrage, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many types of flowers suitable for potted cultivation in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, some flower species with relatively meticulous management requirements can be selected, such as plum blossom, Aglaia odorata, camellia, poinsettia, wintersweet, Belgian azalea, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian iron, money tree, king coconut, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, Ardisia crenata, bromeliads, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix wood), Fagraea ceilanica (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum species (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, Cymbidium hybridum, anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia, Chinese hibiscus, Clivia, pothos, Fittonia, croton, Syngonium, finger citron, bitter orange, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, calceolaria, fish-tail palm, areca palm, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poor conditions, types with relatively extensive management requirements can be grown, such as nandina, sago palm, rhapis palm, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, amaryllis, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Serissa, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', cactus species, asparagus fern, rubber tree, Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Schefflera, Pilea, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, bougainvillea, large spiny plant, camellia, camellia sasanqua, ficus, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: crape myrtle, redbud, wintersweet, Calycanthus, red maple, Chinese tulip tree; the latter five all need their seeds soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown and raised as seedlings after sand storage to promote germination include: cycad, ginkgo, Podocarpus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chinese fan palm, purple magnolia, Michelia species, osmanthus, horse chestnut, nandina, holly species, pomegranate, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Impatiens, marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, scarlet sage, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter coral, four-season primrose, mallow species, four-o'clock, Strelitzia, Clivia, asparagus fern, etc.; some cold-sensitive types should preferably be sown inside plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cuttings. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: Chinese hibiscus, geranium, Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, Portulacaria afra, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, hydrangea, nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, silver bud willow, Hypericum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, pomegranate, fig, Fatsia japonica, gardenia, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Daphne, firethorn, etc.; cold-sensitive flowers should preferably be propagated by cuttings in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side-graft Japanese white pine, Osaka pine, etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and purple magnolia seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling wintersweet as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select scions from excellent cultivars of wintersweet and carry out cut grafting with bagging to retain moisture, which gives a relatively high survival rate; using three-ribbed cactus as rootstock, graft and propagate Schlumbergera and various cactus ball types, preferably in tunnels. In addition, camellia, cherry blossom, osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be propagated by grafting in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: camellia, camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, red maple, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Michelia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball, gardenia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchid species, bleeding heart, Aspidistra, asparagus fern, sago palm, nandina, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snake plant, purple triangular oxalis, large-flowered canna, shell ginger, dahlia, Strelitzia, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and planting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting plum blossom, Magnolia denudata, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, Chinese tulip tree, red maple, etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plant sprouts and leafs out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and increase the survival rate; for wintersweet, crape myrtle, redbud, hibiscus, horse chestnut, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc., transplanting is all right even after sprouting, but appropriate pruning should also be done. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, when transplanting, a sufficient and proper soil ball should be taken; generally the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertilizer in winter, before they sprout, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of the root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon manure, etc., or a multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossom, wintersweet, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, besides necessarily pruning off dead branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, and overgrown flowering branches, for one-year-old branches, cut them off at 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branch, retaining only 2 to 3 buds; through strong renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, which benefits flowering the next year. For camellia, camellia sasanqua, etc., after flowering, prune off branches that spoil the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, hibiscus, osmanthus, etc., which form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve the plant's ventilation and light conditions.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases that year; for some flowers and trees prone to pests and diseases, such as rose, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, grape, Malus halliana, etc., promptly spray Bordeaux mixture, etc. after leaf expansion, which can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew, rust, etc.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and planted out in March include: Dianthus, snapdragon, pot marigold, daisy, hollyhock, mallow, variegated lilyturf, autumn zephyr lily, Zephyranthes, iris, Reineckea carnea, dwarf lilyturf, red-flowered oxalis, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or herbaceous flowers transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have already resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted wintersweet, plum blossom, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, firethorn, Japanese white pine, nandina, Ulmus parvifolia, trident maple, oak, Fraxinus, etc. placed in the open, repotting can be done before they sprout and leaf out, replacing the soil with fresh, loose, fertile potting soil rich in organic matter, to lay a good foundation for spring and summer growth. For Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, rose, jasmine, Chinese hibiscus, Strelitzia, sago palm, poinsettia, camellia sasanqua, camellia, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Clivia, Syngonium, Calathea, etc. placed indoors, repotting should be done before they are moved out of the room.

(2) Hardening off. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor care in March, and both cold protection and ventilation must be given equal attention. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, in early and mid-March work to retain heat and protect against cold must still continue; in late March, doors and windows of the room can be opened during the day for ventilation and air exchange, and closed at night, so that Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, jasmine, Chinese hibiscus, poinsettia, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can gradually undergo hardening off, adapt to the outdoor environment, and avoid early sprouting that affects the year's growth and normal flowering. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, work to retain heat and protect against cold still needs to continue this month, and must not be taken lightly.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Chinese hibiscus, fuchsia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, jasmine, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, sago palm, rubber tree, fish-tail palm, areca palm, croton, asparagus fern, and begonia species, combine with repotting and carry out necessary pruning, including cutting off diseased and insect-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches and some yellowed leaves. For trident maple, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Shimpaku, Huangshan pine, black pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Fraxinus, oak, red nanmu, etc. mainly appreciated for their stump forms, wiring and pruning can also be done in March before sprouting, to further improve their shapes. For plum blossom, wintersweet, rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, etc., strong renewal pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, and it is also impossible for all to live on the first floor with a relatively good small environment for growing flowers; more often, people grow some ornamental plants with relatively strong resistance on balconies, to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Among ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting, one category is relatively drought-tolerant plant types; their body surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or their plant bodies are fleshy and thick with relatively more sap, or their leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like shapes with very little transpiration water loss, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and therefore are very drought-tolerant, such as sago palm, cactus species (Opuntia, Cereus, Crassula, golden barrel cactus, large columnar cactus, Astrophytum, Aporocactus, coral tree), Portulacaria afra, jade plant, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, leaf cactus, kalanchoe, etc. There are also wintersweet, winter jasmine, Lycoris, silver bract taro, Aglaonema, spider plant, etc.; these flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are relatively suitable for balcony planting. Another category is flower species relatively tolerant of direct sunlight and dry hot winds, able to accept full light and resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, also suitable for balcony pot cultivation (especially high-rise balcony), such as pomegranate, rose, ficus, clivia, small-leaf privet, Agave, amaryllis, Zelkova, oak, Ulmus parvifolia, trident maple, water willow, black pine, juniper, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, holly, wintergreen, Vitex, Euonymus, longevity peach, purslane, etc. In addition, jasmine, Chloranthus, Japanese white pine, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra, finger citron, bitter orange, lemon, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, camellia, Schefflera, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can also be used as balcony pot plants on slightly lower floors, but water and shading management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony pot cultivation, such as scarlet sage, ornamental pepper, winter coral, marigold, Impatiens, petunia, etc., can be sown and raised as seedlings in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of asparagus fern or Clivia seeds have been collected, after washing them clean they can first be sown indoors, and after the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, moved to the outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, jade plant, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, coral tree, Crassula, etc. can be propagated by cuttings indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flowerpot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as the cutting medium, and propagate by cuttings indoors at a relatively bright spot by the windowsill gardenia, fuchsia, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, dwarf pomegranate, Chaenomeles speciosa, nandina, Daphne, Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot mouth must be well covered with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, when grafting Japanese white pine, black pine, plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, wintersweet, etc., bagging to retain moisture must be carried out, otherwise survival is not easy.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant types suitable for balcony pot cultivation are still indoors in March; while taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation and light exposure, plants that need repotting should be repotted promptly. For relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, the potting soil should be kept from freezing; if the potting soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants that year, but in severe cases cause plant death; measures such as building temporary shelters on site or moving them indoors or into tunnels can be taken for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For stumps such as wintersweet, holly, wintergreen, black pine, Japanese white pine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, trident maple, Ulmus parvifolia, Zelkova, water willow, small-leaf privet, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out; trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and shaped in March; for plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil replacement can be carried out; for bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist as the standard, water once every 3 to 5 days, and appropriately spray water. For plum blossom, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, wintersweet, longevity peach, camellia, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to keep a good plant shape, and carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cutting off diseased and insect-infested branches and leaves and destroying them; for dry and withered cut surfaces on stumps, lime sulfur mixture, etc. can be applied for anti-corrosion treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board (precast reinforced concrete) supported above, using the humidity produced by evaporation from the water pool; in summer, place some flowers that relatively prefer humid air on it, such as orchid species, Monstera deliciosa, giant green, little angel, Ardisia crenata, nandina, etc. The stored water is relatively ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out of the room, you can also first set up stepped racks on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer, so that once potted flowers are moved out and encounter overly strong sunlight, shade measures can be quickly put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare potting soil for repotting, and stock up on various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Chapter)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, the warm and humid airflow from the south becomes stronger and stronger, and the temperature rises noticeably. After Qingming, although there is occasionally the influence of cold air moving south, it can no longer pose a threat to most potted flowers in areas south of the Huai River; only in areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River is there still the danger of snow and frost. By after Grain Rain, the late frost has ended in areas south of the Huai River and Yangtze River, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for care; while in areas north of the Huai River, only after the late frost ends in May can potted flowers be moved out of the room. In April, from south to north, the flower work is as follows:

1. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include spider flower, four-o'clock, cockscomb, Amaranthus tricolor, purslane, small dahlia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, Impatiens, morning glory, cypress vine, cardinal vine, flowering tobacco, petunia, China aster, coreopsis, coreopsis, marigold, red-yellow chrysanthemum, zinnia, asparagus fern, four-season primrose, nasturtium, Kochia, maple mallow, snow-on-the-mountain, basil, asparagus, cosmos, sand ginseng, sensitive plant, etc. Magnolia family flower and tree species that can be sown in April after sand storage include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia chapensis, Magnolia zenii, southern magnolia, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia sprengeri, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis var. biloba, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia delavayi, Parakmeria, Manglietia, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia chingii, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia, Michelia floribunda, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia wilsonii, Chinese tulip tree, hybrid Chinese tulip tree, North American Chinese tulip tree, etc.; can be sown in April

Other greening flowers and trees include: Japanese fir, golden larch, Norfolk Island pine, Pseudolarix, crape myrtle, redbud, silk tree, yew, pittosporum, Chinese tallow, Huangshan goldenrain tree, soapberry, sweetgum, Acer species, Ormosia, wintersweet, Calycanthus, white plum, goji, nandina, Ardisia crenata, palm, etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown immediately after harvesting in April include: Gerbera, asparagus fern, primrose, winter coral, Japanese fatsia, and nipplefruit. Among them, Japanese fatsia can have its already blackened, whitish, and softened fruits picked at the end of April; after rubbing and washing out the seeds, sow them in fertile seedbeds, or first stratify the seeds in sand until they crack and show white, then sow, covering with grass to retain moisture. Generally after two weeks, once about 70% of the seeds have sprouted, promptly remove the covering grass and set up a shade frame; for cultivating nipplefruit, the harvested golden-yellow fruits can have their outer skin peeled off, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil; after 10 days the seeds will germinate and emerge, and when the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted, either potted for fruit viewing or planted in the ground as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flowering trees that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet, Chinese pagoda tree, ornamental peach, Shouxing peach, black locust with red flowers, as well as cactus and Christmas cactus.

    3. Division

Indoor foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily, snake plant, cast-iron plant, ferns, bamboo palm, spider plant, agave, silver king dieffenbachia, dieffenbachia, Guangdong dieffenbachia, calathea, aloe, peperomia, monstera, birdsnest fern, and others. Ornamental plants that can be divided in April include: phalaenopsis, five-colored fern, hibiscus, iris, hibiscus, kalanchoe, hibiscus, hibiscus, hibiscus, hibiscus, and others; those that can be divided include: geranium, spiderwort, hibiscus, hibiscus, hibiscus, hibiscus, hibiscus, hibiscus, hibiscus, hibiscus, hibiscus, hibiscus, hibiscus, hibiscus, hibiscus, and others. In addition, water lily and water hyacinth can also be divided at this time.

    4. Cuttings

For most easy-to-root flowering tree species, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can be propagated by cuttings in April. The main species include: boxwood, mahonia, nandina, cypress, podocarpus, pomegranate, crape myrtle, redbud, pyracantha, spirea, Chinese tulip tree, bridal wreath spirea, paper bush, and flowering quince.

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that were not repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if too much old soil is not removed and roots are not excessively pruned during repotting, they can be repotted in April. However, it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowering trees, if the new shoots are too long, especially plum blossoms, they must never be repotted after leaf expansion.

    2. April is the best time for transplanting outdoor flowering trees. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet expanded or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with a soil ball in April; for evergreen flowering trees such as camphor, southern magnolia, michelia, and Michelia alba, a portion of branches and leaves must be pruned off to reduce transpiration from the canopy; for deciduous flowering trees, it is best to transplant before leaf expansion, such as white magnolia, horse chestnut, linden, crabapple, wintersweet, red-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, and apricot; generally, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowering trees should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the transplanted tree, so that without damaging the soil ball, the transplanted tree can be free from worry.

III. Bonsai Styling

April is one of the best periods for bonsai styling. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice styling are those with strong adaptability whose branches can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as podocarpus, Chinese juniper, serissa, water willow, true juniper, Euonymus alatus, crape myrtle, soft juniper, flowering cypress, banyan, boxwood, Chinese elm, winter jasmine, paper bush, ginkgo, black pine, and sabina. Other species suitable for styling in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, pyracantha, red nanmu, Chinese ash, trident maple, oak, galo wood, golden bullet, weeping crabapple, Fujian tea, papaya, Elaeagnus, holly, golden larch, and tiger thorn.

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, promptly use metal or non-metal wire to continuously train and correct them so they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the care of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid to the following three aspects this month: first, timely bud removal; when winter buds sprout and granular needle primordia appear on them, remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length to promote shorter and denser new shoots; second, remove female and male cones; when needle bundle buds and male and female cones can be distinguished on new shoots, promptly remove all female cones at the tips of new shoots and male cones at the base of new shoots to reduce nutrient consumption during reproductive growth; third, control watering; from the beginning of new shoot elongation, strictly control watering, water only when dry, and use spraying instead of watering to ensure short clustered new needles and keep the branch pads flat and well-formed.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted Camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, rhododendron, winter jasmine, forsythia, Daphne, kumquat, bitter orange, winter coral, Christmas cactus, Chinese cymbidium, large-flowered cymbidium, Chinese cymbidium, and Phaius, because flowering or fruiting consumes a large amount of nutrients, when growth resumes after warm spring, apply nitrogen-based fertilizer, such as thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote growth; for potted flowers about to bloom such as rose, redbud, pomegranate, Jian orchid, hibiscus, and Michelia alba, topdressing should also be applied, such as monopotassium phosphate, with concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For ground-planted white magnolia, purple magnolia, michelia, plum, wintersweet, and crabapple after flowering, topdressing should also be applied in time to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping and Maintenance

Money tree can be braided in April. Dig up seedlings of money tree that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7 into a braid; after braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then choose a suitable pot for planting; money tree has extremely strong vitality, and even if it cannot be processed into a braid or planted in time, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjust Plant Shape and Prevent Diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and withered stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management; for flower species prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Fruiting Potted Plants

For potted fruiting flowering trees that bloom in April, such as papaya, ginkgo, pyracantha, aucuba, and weeping crabapple, especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period, pay attention to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so they can set fruit normally, and do not miss the opportunity.

    5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management; except where intermittent misting equipment is available, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times daily, always keeping the cutting medium moist, to create the best environment for healing and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual: Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Edition)

Weather characteristics of May: temperatures continue to rise, rainfall gradually increases from south to north in China, and after each rain, the temperature rises noticeably; there is often continuous spring rain, and after the spring rain ends at Xiaoman, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for planting and caring for flowers, and it plays an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. May flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers and flowering trees that can be sown immediately after harvesting in May mainly include: Chinese primrose, Japanese fatsia, leatherleaf mahonia, and loquat. When sowing and raising seedlings in May, pay attention to the following three points: first, keep the sowing seedbed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry; second, cover the sowing seedbed with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes in seedbed moisture that cause seeds to "regress"; third, after emergence, remove the covering grass in several stages and promptly set up a shade frame to avoid scorching the seedlings.

For osmanthus, mature blue-black fruits can be picked at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the flesh, rinsed clean, and stored in moist clean fine sand until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and the radicle tip is exposed can they be sown in the ground. During storage, prevent rodents from stealing them and keep the sand moist.

When sowing loquat, the soil cover should not be too deep, generally no more than 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttings

Flower species suitable for cutting propagation in May include: salvia (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, sulfur cosmos, rose, rhododendron, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower, poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, coral tree, nasturtium, Arabian jasmine, jasmine, chloranthus, red mulberry, deutzia, hydrangea, kerria, pomegranate, hibiscus, butterfly bush, trumpet creeper, gardenia, epiphyllum, Rhaphidophora, night-blooming cereus, jade plant, gem flower, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia biondii, flowering quince, umbrella plant, lantana, red-back croton, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, bleeding heart vine, Guangdong dieffenbachia, cordyline, pothos, Schefflera, oleander, pyracantha, mahonia, and Buddha belly bamboo with aerial roots.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old purple magnolia seedlings or cuttings to propagate Michelia alba and michelia by cleft grafting; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and coir maple; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old Rhododendron mucronatum cuttings to propagate Western rhododendron by cleft grafting; use wild rose as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior rose varieties; use yellow wormwood as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior chrysanthemum varieties; use 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock; graft superior wintersweet varieties by softwood grafting, or use potted rootstock for cleft grafting. In addition, cactus and triangular cactus can be used as rootstock for grafting to propagate Christmas cactus.

    4. Layering

Flowering trees that can be propagated by air layering in May include: Michelia alba, rubber tree, Aglaia, Western rhododendron, camellia, croton, michelia, and red maple; those that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum, wintersweet, rose, gardenia, podocarpus, osmanthus, and trumpet creeper.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, most species must be potted and established in May; after 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, they can bloom on time by late September and early October, thereby creating a joyful, enthusiastic, and colorful holiday atmosphere. The main species include: salvia (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur cosmos, aster, Kochia, marigold, dragon's mouth flower, asparagus fern, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, and begonia.

    2. Transplanting

From late April to early May, when white magnolia is transplanted after flowering and just before budding and leaf expansion, the survival rate is highest. Some flowering trees that sprout later and are easy to transplant successfully can also be transplanted with a soil ball and established in early May, such as crape myrtle, hibiscus, redbud, pomegranate, and silk tree.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, potted ornamental plants will gradually increase their water demand. In addition to combining root watering with foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of water used for irrigation and spraying. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a water tank or small vat, and an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flowers suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, plum, rhododendron, red azalea, gardenia, Daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple, and red-flowered camellia; foliage plants include: sago palm, birdsnest fern, monstera, bamboo palm, rubber tree, ferns, podocarpus, croton, red (green) gem, giant taro, green emperor, arrowhead plant, calathea, bromeliads, Brazilian wood, money tree, and Schefflera; fruiting plants include: bitter orange, pyracantha, kumquat, Buddha's hand, lemon, nandina, winter coral, and coral berry.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For the retractive pruning of Michelia alba shortly after being moved out, special attention should be paid because its branch pith is loose, and the cut surface easily loses water and dries downward; therefore, consider cutting 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained, and never cut too close to the bud eye. For post-flowering pruning of potted rose, lower it moderately by 10 to 20 cm, so that bud eyes in the middle of the branch can differentiate flower buds.

(2) Bud removal: For bud removal on potted wintersweet plants, also pay attention to the location of bud removal; generally it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud, otherwise the wound will dry and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For roses potted that year, promptly remove the terminal bud to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade frame or tree shade, such as: monstera, bamboo palm, calathea, birdsnest fern, giant taro, red (green) gem, green emperor, pink arrowhead, fan palm, arrowhead plant, orchids, rhododendron, bird of paradise, camellia, and sasanqua; light-loving flowering trees must be given sufficient light, such as wintersweet, sago palm, rose, pyracantha, jasmine, and Michelia alba; bonsai plants such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, trident maple, water willow, oak, serissa, black pine, and soft pine require sufficient light; while podocarpus, tiger thorn, red nanmu, Chinese juniper, and five-needle pine can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia, rhododendron, sasanqua, plum, Aglaia, jasmine, Michelia alba, gardenia, wintersweet, rose, Daphne, clivia, orchids, and crabapple, after flowering remove the faded flowers and withered stems, and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen and supplemented with phosphorus, once every half month, to restore nutritional growth while laying a foundation for re-differentiating flower buds; for foliage-oriented species such as rubber tree, monstera, giant taro, red (green) gem, green emperor, birdsnest fern, cast-iron plant, and ferns, apply thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month; for foliage plants with colored spots or patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant, five-colored bromeliad, golden-heart Brazilian wood, croton, caladium, white-butterfly arrowhead plant, and pink arrowhead, a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied as foliar fertilizer to make the leaf color more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For rose, multiflora rose, and rugosa rose, pay attention to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot; for leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticides to kill them; for common leaf-eating pests on bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, Buddha's hand, lemon, and rue???citrus swallowtail larvae, spray pesticides early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be styled in May include: plum, small-leaf gardenia, mountain gardenia, podocarpus, serissa, Chinese juniper, water willow, galo wood, and ginkgo. It is worth noting that when styling, one must be careful and cautious, and try not to damage the bark or branches, otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Edition)

    Weather characteristics of June: by June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huai River basin enters the plum rain season; this year plum rain began on June 12 and ended on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in the region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with prolonged continuous rain. For some flowers and most bonsai that are dormant or semi-dormant in summer, care should be especially careful to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or rampant growth caused by insufficient light, which disrupts styling or affects normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. June flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering tree species that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seeds, cycad, loquat, and wintersweet. For wintersweet, when the urn-shaped fruit capsule on the mother tree turns from green to yellow and then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked; promptly open the fruit capsule, take out the seeds, first soak in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds absorb enough water and swell, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination; after about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white, and at this time sow in furrows; the soil cover thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm, cover with rice straw to retain moisture, and after most seeds' cotyledons emerge, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 stages and promptly set up a shade frame.

    2. Cuttings

In summer, with high temperatures and high humidity, the cambium in flowering tree branches is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation of flowering trees. There are two major categories suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category includes species that are difficult to root or root slowly from hardwood cuttings, such as osmanthus, camellia, michelia, holly, wintergreen, lilac, purple magnolia, flowering quince, snowball, Chinese snowball, coral tree, coral tree, Belgian rhododendron, Buddha belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood, pond cypress, and bald cypress; the other category includes species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood, rose, pyracantha, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, serissa, pomegranate, hibiscus, broom, jasmine, chloranthus, dragon-leaf pearl, lantana, kerria, bougainvillea, Buddha's hand, lemon, podocarpus, nandina, trumpet creeper, red-back croton, honeysuckle, hibiscus, cordyline, Hypericum, Hypericum, golden willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan, Brazilian iron, Ardisia, paper bush, croton, deutzia, mock orange, crape myrtle, Weigela, Weigela, snowball, peach coral, Schefflera, mahonia, Japanese fatsia, bridal wreath spirea, hydrangea, and poinsettia. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-claw golden dragon, ivy, nasturtium, calceolaria, Qianqiu tea, heliotrope, umbrella plant, geranium, coleus, begonia, pansy, globe amaranth, zinnia, French marigold, marigold, and sulfur cosmos.

Taking fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings of camellia and osmanthus as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the young shoots of osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified; the medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite; the cutting is the current year's new shoot, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip; the lower cut is dipped for 10 seconds in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetic acid solution, briefly air-dried, and inserted into the seedbed; the insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with row spacing 2 cm x 8 cm; after watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the seedbed, cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, build a double-layer shade frame for shading, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%; generally after one month the cuttings will root abundantly.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft superior wintersweet varieties; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to graft Michelia alba and michelia. Bud grafting: use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to propagate superior rose varieties by grafting; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, and plum as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, dwarf flowering cherry, plum, and flowering almond; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and red maple. Cleft grafting: use oil tea, red-flowered oil tea, or single-petaled seedling camellia as rootstock for cleft grafting camellia and sasanqua; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among Rhododendron mucronatum as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting Belgian rhododendron or Western rhododendron.

    4. Layering

    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in June include: rhododendron, honeysuckle, hydrangea, snowball, Chinese snowball, Weigela, oleander, osmanthus, camellia, plum, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, Aglaia, chloranthus, jasmine, and Michelia alba.

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: sword fern, calla lily (after flowering), Buddha belly bamboo, umbrella plant, purple-heart oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, cast-iron plant, spider plant, Acorus, and golden-edge lilyturf.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting/Establishment

    1. Seed Collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus, cornflower, snapdragon, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, hollyhock, mallow, primrose, calceolaria, and amaryllis (sow immediately after harvest).

    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in June: after collecting wintersweet seeds, if nursery conditions do not allow, the extracted seeds can also be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing without affecting their germination rate; peach and apricot should be sown immediately after harvest, or their seeds can be stratified in sand until they crack and germinate, then sown in the ground; osmanthus seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed, be washed clean, and stored in moist sand to promote embryo after-ripening, and when they germinate, choose a nursery site for sowing.

    2. Transplanting, Establishment, and Potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting, establishment, or potting, including: evening primrose, spider flower, garden balsam, Guinea impatiens, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter coral, red tobacco, petunia, marigold, French marigold, zinnia, globe amaranth, salvia, dragon's mouth flower, Kochia, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, and red-green grass.

In summer, some large flowering trees are no longer transplanted, to avoid affecting their survival rate and post-transplant growth. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Japanese fatsia, leatherleaf mahonia, mahonia, Hypericum, gardenia, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, and boxwood, under special circumstances, transplanting with a soil ball is also acceptable, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just don't let the tree know," but after transplanting, strengthen misting and shading management.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    Watering potted flowers in June should pay attention to the following aspects: first, watering time, preferably at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m., and generally once a day is sufficient; second, watering temperature, keep the irrigation water and pot soil temperature basically consistent; if the water temperature and soil temperature differ too greatly, it will stimulate the root system and leaves of potted flowers and affect their growth; third, combine watering and spraying; when there has been no rain for several days, in addition to watering the pot, also spray water on the leaf surface and around the potted flowers to increase local humidity; if there is continuous cloudy weather, decide whether to water and spray according to the dryness or moisture of the pot soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red wood sorrel, geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, and begonia; when the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, reduce watering and just keep the pot soil moist; deeply dormant species such as: cyclamen, Lycoris (species), Ranunculus, and Dutch peony; under high temperatures they show withered aboveground stems and leaves and dead underground nutrient fibrous roots, surviving the summer in dormancy in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots; watering must be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the pot soil should just be kept from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops comprehensively check the potted flowers; if water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the pot soil dries, loosen the soil to avoid root rot; or before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, set them upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing species such as monstera, spider plant, arrowhead plant, calathea, sword fern, birdsnest fern, sago palm, cast-iron plant, giant taro, red (green) gem, green emperor, green queen, rubber tree, anthurium, red-back croton, bamboo palm, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian iron, podocarpus, money tree, wintersweet, rose, Michelia alba, Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, plum, camellia, sasanqua, Daphne, rhododendron, fragrant osmanthus, lantana, bleeding heart vine, shrimp plant, bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, and pyracantha, apply thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month; for species currently blooming, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to meet their needs for growth, flowering, and fruiting.

For those flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped; especially for succulent flower species such as jade plant, Christmas cactus, Haworthia, Senecio, squirrel tail, Lampranthus, stapelia, and sedum, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, stop fertilizing to avoid rot.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, podocarpus, Fujian tea, true juniper, Chinese juniper, water willow, Chinese juniper, holly, wintergreen, trident maple, snow willow, tamarisk, and pyracantha, prune or retract branches that affect styling as early as possible, which can keep the plant clearly layered and good in appearance, and can promote more short shoots and new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal: For flowers such as Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, and rose, promptly remove faded flowers and withered stems, and appropriately retract the branches that have flowered, to promote lower side branches or flower buds to bloom again; for flowering trees such as Michelia alba, bitter orange, rhododendron, camellia, wintersweet, plum, and crabapple, in order to promote a good plant shape and more flower buds, more flowers, and better flowers in the current or following year, pinch and remove buds on excessively vigorous branches to suppress the growth of main and side shoots and promote side bud sprouting.

    4. Shading

    In June, for flowering trees that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to prevent damage from scorching sunlight, such as hosta, purple hosta, asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchids, bamboo palm, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, arrowhead plant, pink arrowhead, birdsnest fern, pothos, Peperomia, giant taro, red (green) gem, green emperor, red queen, fan palm, Daphne, cast-iron plant, and spider plant. Light-loving flower species must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate, wisteria, pyracantha, crape myrtle, jasmine, serissa, cycad, Chinese juniper, peach, plum, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, Japanese apricot, holly, wintergreen, water willow, oak, black pine, black pine, Michelia alba, Aglaia, rose, mahonia, and grape; podocarpus, tiger thorn, nandina, Buddha belly bamboo, bamboo palm, five-needle pine, and Buddhist pine can be given appropriate shading.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper, Chinese elm, papaya, pyracantha, podocarpus, and crabapple are susceptible to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles; promptly use poison sticks to block and control them.

(2) Rose, multiflora rose, and rugosa rose are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot during the plum rain season; spray Bordeaux mixture early for control.

(3) Michelia alba, plum, and wintersweet are susceptible to aphid damage; select suitable pesticides early and spray to kill them.

(4) Orchid leaves are susceptible to anthracnose; spray carbendazim and other fungicides early for control.

(5) Bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, and Buddha's hand have tender leaves easily eaten by citrus swallowtail larvae; spray contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Plant species that can be styled in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and must be plants potted in early spring for hardening or planted in the ground. They are: podocarpus, winter jasmine, Elaeagnus, Huashan pine, Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper, holly, wintergreen, goji, five-needle pine, weeping crabapple, Mulus spectabilis, plum, ornamental peach, trident maple, serissa, black pine, boxwood, Chinese elm, tamarisk, water willow, true juniper, ginkgo, snow willow, and pyracantha. Styling in June must be careful, with light and slow wiring; never rush or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5, Grain in Ear; June 21, Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Manual (July Edition)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain weather in the Yangtze-Huai region ends. On July 16, the dog days begin, and on August 15, the dog days end; most regions of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most regions of China is above 24°C, and in regions south of the Yangtze-Huai line it is 28°C; only in northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau is the average July temperature below 20°C. July flower care management mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria, Chinese primrose, ornamental kale, and campanula. When sowing, pay attention to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light transmission.
    In July, mature fruits of plum, wild peach, mountain peach, and flowering almond can also be picked; after washing off the fruit flesh, sow immediately in furrows, or store the washed drupes in moist sand until they crack and then sow; wintersweet seeds can be sown immediately after harvest, or the seeds extracted from the fruit capsule can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing without affecting their germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    Herbaceous flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Scutellaria, begonia, coleus, Pilea, salvia, marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Dutch chrysanthemum, purple loosestrife, umbrella plant, Boston ivy, coral flower, peperomia, Rhaphidophora, Polygonum, mother of thousands, and pothos.
    Woody flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: red-back croton, nandina, poinsettia, crown of thorns, Hypericum, Hypericum, Weigela, hydrangea, Weigela, snowball, bridal wreath spirea, Daphne, gardenia, paper bush, Magnolia sieboldii, bougainvillea, Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, Schefflera, mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, hibiscus, pyracantha, cordyline, hibiscus, serissa, michelia, coral tree, rubber tree, Chinese snowball, Tianmu snowball, boxwood, fig, purple magnolia, osmanthus, rhododendron, camellia, sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, and golden willow. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July, some flowering trees can also be propagated by water cuttings. They are: gardenia, oleander, rose, jasmine, chloranthus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, and hibiscus. To propagate flowering trees by water cuttings, first prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 cm to 2 cm thick, perforate it, and use it as fixing material for cuttings; second, keep the water for cuttings clean, and add a few pieces of charcoal for antisepsis.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old sown seedlings of mountain peach and wild peach can be used as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, Shouxing peach, red-leaf peach, plum, flowering almond, purple-leaf plum, and beauty plum; use cuttings of wild rose, pink cluster rose, and "Ten Sisters" as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate variety roses, cut-flower roses, and rugosa rose; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate Michelia alba and michelia; use potted 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate superior wintersweet varieties; 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings can also be used as rootstock, using the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm from the ground, and after 7 to 10 days it can be judged whether it has survived; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among Rhododendron mucronatum as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting to propagate Belgian rhododendron or Western rhododendron; use cherry seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior cherry blossom varieties; use current-year seedling of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, or weeping crabapple and crabapple as rootstock for "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate superior crabapple varieties; use maple seedlings as rootstock for bagged grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and other seedlings.
    4. Layering
    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, trumpet creeper, Chinese snowball, oleander, Weigela, broom, osmanthus, gardenia, purple magnolia, jasmine, chloranthus, climbing rose, and winter jasmine.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta, purple hosta, Acorus, umbrella plant, cast-iron plant, purple-heart oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, lilyturf, Reineckea, rain lily, sword fern, iris, and inch plant. II. Seed Collection and Transplanting/Establishment
    1. Seed Collection
    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, snake's head chrysanthemum, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, and Lampranthus.
    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, plum, wild peach, mountain peach, and flowering almond.
    2. Transplanting, Establishment, and Potting
    July is the main period for potting up herbaceous flowers during the National Day season. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted at this time can be seedlings or cuttings. After 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom right around the National Day holiday, for use as holiday decorations. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia, Guinea impatiens, dragon's-mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, summer cypress, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, and so on.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, transplanting certain flowering shrubs with root balls is also feasible, such as leatherleaf mahonia, St. John's wort, golden-leaf privet, Japanese barberry, Japanese aucuba, and Chinese juniper balls. However, targeted pruning must be carried out, shade frames must be set up in time, and the frequency of water spraying must be increased. After they have basically survived, they can be shifted to normal management. Never be careless.
III. Flower Management
    1. Watering
Flower species that enter a semi-dormant state during high temperatures, such as red wood sorrel, geraniums, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonias, sedums, kalanchoe, cacti, Haworthia cooperi, Stapelia grandiflora, string of pearls, Senecio macroglossus, Daphne odora, Christmas cactus, portulacaria, aloe, etc., because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low, so watering should be reduced, the potting soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it easily leads to root rot and also seriously affects their recovery growth after autumn.
Flower species that enter a deep dormancy state during high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, Persian buttercup, and bleeding heart, show withered aboveground stems and leaves in July, while the underground nutrient fibrous roots die off, and they spend the summer dormant in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For deeply dormant flowers, watering should be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the potting soil should simply be kept from becoming too dry.
For flower species that grow vigorously, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm, cast-iron plant, split-leaf philodendron, rubber tree, white orchid, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Norfolk Island pine, Calathea species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, giant taro, green emperor, green queen, pink lady leaf, Brazilian iron, money tree, camellia, tea camellia, Japanese aucuba, firethorn, bitter orange, lemon, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but appropriate foliar spraying should also be given, combining watering and spraying. Especially during consecutive cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be given, and carelessness must be avoided. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray the leaves with water, and after the leaves recover and stand upright, then water the roots. Never pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it very easily causes woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or leads to rot of the plant's nutrient fibrous roots, and may even cause plant death.
For potted plum trunks, because July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves on both sides of the potted plant slightly curled inward, to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second flush of new shoots produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and then pinch off the rest. Flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axil of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon. Watering before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. is preferable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out promptly, and after the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of the potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, there are four major categories of ornamental plants whose fertilization management should be strengthened. First, types with an especially long flowering period, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as white magnolia, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, and jasmine; second, types that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, and cotton rose; third, types for viewing flowers and fruits in winter, such as bitter orange, nandina, wintersweet, and rhododendron; fourth, foliage plants, such as lady palm, split-leaf philodendron, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, and rubber tree. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to applying the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for their budding, flowering, and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the fertilization method, applying thin liquid fertilizer is preferable.
    In July, herbaceous flowers whose fertilization should be strengthened include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, Cymbidium ensifolium, marigold, four-o'clock, dragon's-mouth flower, and so on. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, banana shrub, osmanthus, camellia, tea camellia, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, white orchid, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming jasmine, Chinese rose, crabapple species, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, wintersweet, rose of Sharon, cotton rose, and so on. There are relatively many kinds of foliage plants, such as bromeliads, Brazilian iron, lady palm, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, Calathea, giant taro, red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, split-leaf philodendron, Cordyline, and so on.
   In July, fertilization must be stopped for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, especially for succulent ornamental plants such as sedums, Senecio articulatus, Lampranthus, and stapelias. Fertilization must be stopped even more so, to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be tip-pruned and bud-pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means directly removing the tender terminal buds at the shoot tips with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm, Japanese Zelkova, Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, boxleaf euonymus, wintersweet, firethorn, Buddhist pine, Chinese tamarisk, Elaeagnus pungens, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia suspensa, Chinese hackberry, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple, crape myrtle, Serissa japonica, orange jasmine, and so on. Pruning means using shears to cut off part of the new shoots, prompting the lower lateral buds to sprout, so that they form beautiful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant types suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are not convenient to pinch with the fingers, such as Chinese juniper, Oriental arborvitae, sabina, creeping juniper, oak, Ilex cornuta, and shimpaku.
For potted flowers that bloom continuously over a long period, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, and Chloranthus spicatus, their spent flowers and faded stalks should be removed promptly, and the branches that have already flowered should be given the necessary shortening pruning, which can prompt the lower lateral buds to sprout and bloom again. For rhododendron, camellia, tea camellia, crabapple, wintersweet, plum blossom, and so on, overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened, so as to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperatures of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun exposure. Such as ferns, hosta, purple hosta, split-leaf philodendron, camellia, tea camellia, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, bird of paradise, orchids, lady palm, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, pink lady leaf, pothos, pepperomia species, cast-iron plant, Tradescantia zebrina, Brazilian iron, Epipremnum pinnatum, bromeliads, Calathea species, Reineckea carnea, and so on.
For light-loving types, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, firethorn, jasmine, Serissa japonica, sago palm, sabina, Oriental arborvitae, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Japanese Zelkova, trident maple, black pine, Adina rubella, oak, Pinus densiflora, white orchid, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, and so on. For Buddhist pine, podocarpus, banana shrub, Damnacanthus indicus, asparagus fern, bamboo palm, five-needle pine, and so on, it is necessary to give appropriate shading.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature this month is too high and the air is relatively dry, in addition to the necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand. This can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and also help protect the plants' nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, flower types with a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or with a relatively thick cuticle layer on the leaf surface, slightly tolerant of dry environments, and with strong resistance should be chosen, such as rubber tree, Japanese fatsia, leatherleaf mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Hibiscus abelmoschus, Chinese fan palm, lady palm, Canary Island date palm, bromeliads, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, split-leaf philodendron, Schefflera, cast-iron plant, Japanese aucuba, and so on, while types such as Boston fern, coleus, giant taro, and Syngonium are not suitable. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioner vents, to prevent the wind from blowing directly on the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf margins to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are relatively easily infected with anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant, and in severe cases can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the disease period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the root crowns or main trunks of plum blossom, peach blossom, crabapple species, purple-leaf plum, cherry blossom, and Prunus triloba, it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of poison sticks, and soil application of carbofuran can be used for control, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunks. Note that when injecting pesticides, dimethoate and omethoate, etc., must not be used, to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, timely control should be carried out against the boxwood leafroller moth that harms boxleaf euonymus, Japanese boxwood, acute-leaf boxwood, and pearl boxwood. When this pest occurs severely, it can chew all the leaves bare. Once found, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and the pest has developed resistance, the pesticide type can be changed.
(4) In July, in some areas, citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae will continue to harm the leaves of new shoots of bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, finger citron, lemon, citron, and rue, and stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) For the wax insect that harms privet, small-leaf privet, Ligustrum, and ash trees, late July to late August is its emergence period. The right timing should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the wax insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest harming large-leaf boxwood, plane tree, Pittosporum, camellia, purple-leaf plum, deodar cedar, and so on. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai Styling
    In July, because the temperature is high, the air humidity is low, and the plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches that are damaged are easily infected by pathogens and difficult to heal and recover. Most tree-stump species are no longer suitable for wiring and styling. Those that can still be styled are some plant species with strong adaptability and tolerance for wiring, and they are required to be plants that were potted in spring for hardening off or were field-grown. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Buddhist pine, Hinoki cypress, green cypress, Serissa japonica, black pine, boxleaf euonymus, Adina rubella, and so on.
    In July, plant styling must be done carefully and meticulously, with gentle wiring and slow binding, applying force gradually. Do not operate hastily or use excessive force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plant's branches and trunk to break, endangering its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Manual Autumn

Flower Planting Manual (August Chapter)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display
    August has high temperatures, strong light, and low humidity, and is the period of high temperature and dry heat second only to July in the year. The monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for display in courtyards are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant types. Among them, woody flowers mainly include: Norfolk Island pine, black pine, Pinus densiflora, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese umbrella pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, armand pine, Buddhist pine, sabina, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea fragrans, cinnamon, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, weeping fig, Chinese hibiscus, Lantana camara, coral tree (Erythrina), Dutch iron, croton, Brazilian wood, lady palm, money tree, Schefflera, frangipani, four-season osmanthus, oleander, Washington palm, palm, bottle palm, broadleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, spotted aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese rose, and so on. Herbaceous flowers include: impatiens, large-flowered canna, shell ginger, scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, begonia, dragon's-mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, phlox, ornamental pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, pot marigold, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four-o'clock, zinnia, and so on. In addition, there are cast-iron plant, Guangdong evergreen, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, split-leaf philodendron, pothos, silver queen, and so on.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony, Prunus triloba, red camellia, summer wintersweet, American summer wintersweet, Buddhist pine, and so on. They can be sown as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, and then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be stored in sand to promote germination and then sown in bags. Pomegranate for fruit viewing is harvested after ripening and cracking, the fleshy layer outside the seeds is rubbed and washed away, and the seeds are stored in sand until germination before sowing. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, Linum, petunia, snapdragon, coneflower, Oxalis species, yarrow, nasturtium, pyrethrum, and so on. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: Calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, wax begonia, fairy primrose, coleus, pot marigold, and so on.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed substrate prepared from alkaline-leached rice husk ash and wet fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings can be used to propagate the following flower and tree species: firethorn, mahonia species, wintersweet, banana shrub, bougainvillea, coral tree, Aglaia odorata, spotted aucuba, Chinese snowball, snowball, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, rubber tree, agarwood, Buddhist pine, Schefflera species, Cordyline, hydrangea, purple magnolia, and so on. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, etc. as the substrate, cuttings can be made of boxwood species, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, French holly, golden-edge privet, Japanese barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, Serissa japonica, spiraea, snow spray, and gardenia. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, and sulfur cosmos can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flower and tree grafting can be carried out: in northern regions, use Chionanthus retusus as rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use purple magnolia and white magnolia as rootstock and bud-graft to propagate Yulan magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock and cleft-graft white orchid; use the current year's seedling of wild peach as rootstock and bud-graft plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf flowering cherry, and Prunus triloba; use cherry seedling as rootstock and bud-graft Japanese cherry; use wild rose and pink cluster rose as rootstock and bud-graft superior varieties of Chinese rose; use seedling of Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, and Malus hupehensis as rootstock and bud-graft Mulus halliana and Mulus halliana; use green maple as rootstock and top-graft red maple and laceleaf maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as rootstock and cleft-graft variegated weeping fig; use single-petal camellia as rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of camellia; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock and cleft-graft or side-graft superior varieties of wintersweet. In addition, cleft grafting can also be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, Banksian rose, climbing Chinese rose, weigela, hydrangea, Chinese snowball, snowball, oleander, gardenia, broom, winter jasmine, Forsythia suspensa, Japanese quince, Mulus halliana, Mulus halliana, osmanthus species, purple magnolia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, banana shrub, Chinese hibiscus, Buddhist pine, coral tree, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), and so on.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, little angel, multi-headed green emperor, bromeliads, Solomon's seal, cast-iron plant, umbrella plant, Adina, red (green) gem, iris, blackberry lily, purple triangular wood sorrel, Guangdong evergreen, Dutch chrysanthemum, fine-leaf calamus, Boston fern, silver queen, Calathea species, Syngonium, Haworthia, and so on. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, freesia, and so on can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of Courtyard Field-Grown Flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when transplanting with large root balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, management such as shading, watering, and spraying should be strengthened after transplanting, which can achieve a relatively high survival rate, such as golden-leaf privet, Japanese barberry, golden-edge thousand-head Oriental arborvitae, golden-heart (edge) boxwood, St. John's wort, leatherleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, Chinese rose, rhododendron, gardenia, Buddhist pine, banana shrub, Chinese juniper ball, Sabina chinensis ball, boxwood ball, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, Japanese aucuba, French holly, and so on. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and planted out, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, dragon's-mouth flower, and so on, which can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, road hedges in the courtyard such as boxwood, small-leaf privet, privet, golden-leaf privet, French holly, and Photinia davidsoniae should continue to be pruned. Field-grown ball-shaped plants, such as Photinia, Chinese juniper, Sabina chinensis, bayberry, firethorn, Pittosporum, Ilex cornuta, and holly, must also be pruned again. For field-grown flowers and trees that bloom continuously over a long period, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, and Lantana camara, spent flowers should be removed promptly, and the branch tips should be appropriately shortened. For field-grown herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, French marigold, and marigold, tip pruning and pinching should be given.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and herbaceous flowers planted out, watering and spraying management should be strengthened. For plants whose trunks are wrapped with straw rope, the straw rope should be sprayed wet, ensuring that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Spray more and water cautiously, ensuring that water does not accumulate at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for field-grown red loropetalum (red loropetalum), golden-edge (heart) boxwood, Japanese barberry, golden-leaf privet, purple-leaf dwarf cherry, croton, red mulberry, spotted aucuba, shell ginger, and so on, in order to keep their leaf color bright for a long time, quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For continuously blooming types such as Chinese rose, fragrant osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, flowering pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, and Lantana camara, as well as types about to bloom such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, and autumn peony, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly. For camellia, tea camellia, plum blossom, and wintersweet, which are in flower bud differentiation, a small amount of monopotassium phosphate solution can be sprayed via foliar feeding.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on deodar cedar, privet, Pittosporum, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, camellia, and so on, promptly spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control. For chrysanthemum tiger and aphids, etc. occurring on field-grown chrysanthemums, 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution can be sprayed to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawfly and cotton leafworm that gnaw on Chinese rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, Prunus triloba, red camellia, Buddhist pine, summer wintersweet, and so on. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony, moss rose, four-o'clock, phlox, California poppy, and snow-in-summer, and so on.
Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidity, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as Calceolaria, gloxinia, iron-cross begonia, and hairy-leaf begonia, water droplets that fall on the leaf surface do not evaporate easily and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the clivia leaf rosette must not be drenched with water, and dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water must be given sparingly and sprayed more, and water should be poured into the leaf tank, only then can their needs be met. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, attention must also be paid to loosening the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to become compacted. For flower species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, watering and spraying should be controlled, only to the extent of keeping the potting soil slightly moist, and a relatively cool and moist environment can be created for them by spraying water around the flower pots.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants, such as split-leaf philodendron, cast-iron plant, rubber tree, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, lady palm, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, queen palm, pygmy date palm, areca palm, fishtail palm, Chinese fan palm, pothos, Brazilian wood, Dutch iron, money tree, Boston fern, dew pocket tree, Fagraea fragrans (African jasmine), cinnamon (peace wood), coin tree (dragon-phoenix wood), Syngonium, green emperor, green queen, poinsettia, pink lady leaf, Schefflera, Japanese aucuba, parlour palm, croton, Japanese fatsia, and so on, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For long-flowering types, such as Chinese rose, white orchid, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, four-season osmanthus, fragrant osmanthus, bougainvillea, and Lantana camara, as well as fruiting types such as bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, lemon,Ardisia crenata, firethorn, golden bullet, fruit pomegranate, nandina, and papaya, in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as monopotassium phosphate, etc. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, dragon's-mouth flower, China aster, chrysanthemum, and dwarf sunflower, thin liquid fertilizer can be applied once every half month, ensuring lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flower and tree species in flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, tea camellia, plum blossom, osmanthus, and rhododendron, low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied to the leaves. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, the fertilizer liquid must not be dripped on the leaves, to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, promptly spray the leaves once with water after fertilizing, to wash away fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, Daphne odora, aloe, kalanchoe, portulacaria, Christmas cactus, sedums, purple triangular wood sorrel, cacti, and cactus balls, all forms of topdressing must be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the heat is still strong, and shading management for courtyard potted flowers is still very important. For cool-loving ornamental plant species, such as split-leaf philodendron, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, little angel, rubber tree, areca palm, giant taro, Syngonium, Calathea species, red (green) gem, lady palm, pothos, green emperor, green queen, orchid grass species, pink lady leaf, pepperomia, bromeliads, Adina, mirror grass, ferns, Buddha belly bamboo, fernleaf hedge bamboo, spider plant, Reineckea carnea, parlour palm, nerve plant, purple velvet plant, blood leaf orchid, silver queen, Alocasia, crystal anthurium, anthurium, begonias, lucky bamboo, cast-iron plant, asparagus fern, purple hosta, and so on, shade frames can continue to be given, pulling on the shade net at 9 a.m. and removing it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and then moved out from under the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue to pinch or prune tree-stump bonsai that grow vigorously, tolerate pruning, and sprout easily, such as Chinese elm, Japanese Zelkova, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, boxleaf euonymus, and so on. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, and so on, shorten-prune after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and bud thinning?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control should be carried out against pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail, rose sawfly, and peach longhorn beetle. Attention should be paid to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Attention should be paid to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers.
Potted Plants Suitable for Balcony Display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry, hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or long placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as black pine, Pinus densiflora, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Japanese Zelkova, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, boxleaf euonymus, Oriental arborvitae stump, sabina, creeping juniper, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, Fujian tea, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave, Lantana camara, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, trident maple, Buddhist pine, and so on. In August, some flowers and trees on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as large-flowered cymbidium, Dendrobium orchid, Cattleya orchid, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda orchid, Oncidium, South American cycad, Alocasia, crystal anthurium, anthurium, giant taro, red (green) gem, Calathea, areca palm, queen palm, little angel, split-leaf philodendron, cast-iron plant, pothos, lady palm, money tree, clivia, fuchsia, nerve plant, golden shrimp plant, Brazilian wood, Japanese fatsia, and so on.
Propagation of Balcony Flowers
In August, on the balcony, large-caliber flower pots covered with plastic film can be used for moisture-retaining cuttings of some ornamental plants. The cutting substrate can be a mixture of rice husk ash and fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera, spotted aucuba, begonia, gardenia, golden shrimp plant, coral plant, fragrant osmanthus, Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline, jasmine, Guangdong evergreen, silver queen, camellia, tea camellia, banana shrub, and so on. For the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Some ornamental plants can also be water-propagated indoors, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera, Japanese aucuba, fig, Cordyline, frangipani, geranium, Guangdong evergreen, fuchsia, and so on.
Management of Balcony Flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying balcony potted flowers must be done carefully and prudently. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and spraying, which can be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of the potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water, to meet the needs of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, bricks can be used to build a simple sand pool, with 10 cm thick wet sand placed inside, and then some potted flowers that are relatively moisture-loving can be placed on the wet sand, such as: split-leaf philodendron, cast-iron plant, little angel, camellia, tea camellia, Syngonium, spring orchid, Cymbidium ensifolium, bromeliads, red (green) gem, Chloranthus spicatus, and so on. Usually, spraying water instead of watering is very beneficial for them to pass the summer safely. For large-flowered cymbidium, tiger orchid, Oncidium, Cattleya orchid, fuchsia, Dendrobium orchid, crystal anthurium, Alocasia, and so on, they can be moved to air-conditioned rooms, using spraying instead of watering, ensuring that they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Japanese Zelkova, boxleaf euonymus, trident maple, black pine, Pinus densiflora, wisteria, Fujian tea, Adina rubella, agave, sago palm, and so on, they can be watered 1 to 2 times a day and sprayed 1 to 2 times.
2. Fertilizing. In August, fertilization must be stopped for balcony potted plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state. For vigorously growing foliage plants, 0.3% urea solution can be sprayed or watered on, or multi-element compound fertilizer granules can be scattered on the pot surface. For flowers and trees mainly for viewing flowers and fruits, such as white orchid, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, kumquat, and so on, quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should continue to be applied. For Chinese elm, Japanese Zelkova, Ilex cornuta, holly, Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, trident maple, Adina rubella, boxleaf euonymus, and so on, after each pruning, a thin fertilizer can be applied once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai, such as five-needle pine, Buddhist pine, sabina, Fujian tea, plum blossom, trident maple, and so on, soft grass, moss, or wet cloth can be spread over the pot surface, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature, and also protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, shade netting can be used to block light. If there are not many potted flowers and trees on the balcony and they are relatively precious, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most of the tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese Zelkova, Serissa japonica, Fraxinus chinensis, oak, small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, sabina, Oriental arborvitae, small-leaf privet, boxleaf euonymus, firethorn, and so on, pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For spent flowers and faded stalks, dead branches, and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution should be sprayed promptly to kill them. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowers and trees, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution is suitable for spraying to kill them

Flower Planting Manual (September Chapter)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display
In September, temperatures in most parts of our country slowly decline, with the monthly average temperature between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are relatively many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for display in courtyards. Among them, woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese umbrella pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Buddhist pine, podocarpus, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian cycad, Fagraea fragrans, cinnamon species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, weeping fig, Chinese hibiscus, cotton rose, Dutch iron, croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, Schefflera, lady palm, frangipani, bottle palm, broadleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, spotted aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm tree, Chinese rose, fishtail palm, areca palm, queen palm, Cordyline, pygmy date palm, fiddle-leaf fig, red maple, South American cycad, spruce species, Schefflera, Garcinia, large Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, white orchid, orange jasmine, dew pocket tree, nandina, and so on. Herbaceous flowers include: large-flowered canna, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, begonia, marigold, ornamental pepper, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, dragon's-mouth flower, and so on.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red camellia, banana shrub species, magnolia species, manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summer wintersweet, Canary Island date palm, and so on. Among them, horse chestnut seeds can be sown in furrows, and when sowing the hilum should face down, and the covering soil should not be too deep, with 2 to 2.5 cm being suitable, and plastic film or straw should be added to retain moisture. Summer wintersweet seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing in the ground, and seedlings can emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Apart from summer wintersweet, which can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, all the other species must be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, dianthus, tall catchfly, dwarf catchfly, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, and so on. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, nasturtium, cineraria, wax begonia, Gerbera, and Calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but they must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice husk ash as the cutting substrate, flower and tree species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: firethorn, mahonia, banana shrub, bougainvillea, Weigela florida, spotted aucuba, fuchsia, Chinese snowball, snowball, weigela, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, golden-vein shrimp plant, coral plant, rubber tree, Schefflera, Cordyline, and so on. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedling bed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood species, purple magnolia, St. John's wort, spiraea, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, snow spray, hydrangea, French holly, golden-edge privet, Japanese barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, Serissa japonica, gardenia, Japanese fatsia, Japanese quince, tree peony, and so on. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, cold chrysanthemum, and so on.
3. Grafting. The following flower and tree grafting propagation can be carried out: use peony root segments as rootstock and graft superior varieties of tree peony; use seedlings of wild peach, apricot, etc. as rootstock and bud-graft to propagate Prunus triloba, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, and so on; use green maple seedlings as rootstock and bag-covered moisture-retaining cleft-graft red maple, laceleaf maple, and so on; use white magnolia seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft superior varieties of white magnolia and Yulan magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock and cleft-graft white orchid; use citrus seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft kumquat, etc.; use Chionanthus retusus as rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: Japanese quince, weigela, hydrangea, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, Forsythia suspensa, osmanthus, purple magnolia, jasmine, banana shrub, camellia, Chloranthus spicatus, French holly, snowball, Chinese snowball, snow spray, spiraea, and so on.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: spring orchid, cymbidium, Cymbidium ensifolium, peony, tree peony, Guangdong evergreen, purple triangular wood sorrel, Rudbeckia, snake plant, little angel, multi-headed green emperor, silver queen, Boston fern, nandina, Japanese quince, purple magnolia, silver-striped lilyturf, cast-iron plant, large-leaf dwarf lilyturf, and so on. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, Lycoris, and Mediterranean bluebell can also have their daughter bulbs divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of Courtyard Field-Grown Flowers
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there is a special need, flowers and trees are generally not transplanted in the courtyard. If it is for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out on the premise of good root balls. Species such as: oleander, Chinese juniper, banana shrub, Sabina chinensis, osmanthus, camellia, Japanese barberry, golden-leaf privet, boxwood species, St. John's wort, French holly, red loropetalum (red loropetalum), spotted aucuba, and so on. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and management of watering, spraying, and shading must be strengthened, only then can transplanting be guaranteed to be completely safe. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted up, for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, French marigold, dragon's-mouth flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, and so on.
2. Pruning. Continue to prune courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants that grow vigorously and have strong sprouting ability. This is also the last pruning of ball-shaped plants in the growing season this year in northern regions. Courtyard hedges and color-block tree species suitable for pruning mainly include: boxwood species, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, privet, small-leaf privet, Japanese barberry, golden-leaf privet, golden-edge thousand-head Oriental arborvitae, and so on. Ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: Chinese juniper, Sabina chinensis, boxwood, bayberry, Ilex cornuta, holly, Photinia, Pittosporum, firethorn, Forsythia suspensa, and so on. Those that can be tip-pruned and pinched among field-grown herbaceous flowers include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, summer cypress, marigold, French marigold, and so on. It is suitable to pinch once every 10 days, to prompt them to form a full plant shape, and to produce more inflorescences on the lateral shoots. Stop pinching after late September. For field-grown woody flowers that bloom continuously over a long period, such as variety Chinese rose, floribunda rose, miniature rose, climbing Chinese rose, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Lantana camara, bougainvillea, and so on, promptly cut off spent flowers and faded stalks, and appropriately shorten the branches that have already flowered, which can effectively promote them to bloom again.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year, continuing to do a good job of watering and spraying management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival effect. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw rope wrapped around the trunk, to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunk; third, spray water on the crown, to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for herbaceous flowers newly planted one after another, a good job of spraying and moisture retention should also be done.
4. Fertilizing. For field-grown colorful foliage plants, such as golden-leaf privet, Japanese barberry, red maple, red loropetalum (red loropetalum), shell ginger, croton, spotted aucuba, red mulberry, red-leaf dwarf cherry, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, and so on, in order to keep their leaf color fresh and brilliant at all times, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be appropriately applied. For field-grown flowers and trees that bloom continuously or are for viewing flowers and fruits in autumn, such as crape myrtle, Chinese rose, fragrant osmanthus, four-season tangerine, flowering pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, Lantana camara, nandina, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, and so on, as well as a large number of field-grown autumn herbaceous flowers, quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, and orange osmanthus, etc. that are blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth harming flowers and trees such as crape myrtle, firethorn, and crabapple, 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution can be sprayed for control; for the star longhorn beetle harming crape myrtle, papaya, and crabapple, poison sticks can be inserted at the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew, etc. appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution can be used for control in the early stage of the disease.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flowers and trees of the magnolia family. Such as Oyama magnolia, banana shrub, purple magnolia, white magnolia, Yunshan white magnolia, Michelia chapensis, Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, southern magnolia, and so on. In addition, there are horse chestnut species, crape myrtle, lilac, crabapple species, redbud, white spirea, yew, and shining wintersweet, and so on. Magnolia family, as well as yew, horse chestnut, crabapple species, etc., after seed treatment must all be stored in wet sand until early the following spring, and sown in the ground after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, impatiens, four-o'clock, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, China aster, and so on. After collection, thresh promptly and dry-store until the following spring before sowing.
Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In September, the light is relatively strong, the temperature is relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers cannot be neglected. As for watering frequency, for general moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month they can be watered or sprayed once each in the morning and afternoon, and in the second half of the month change to watering once, with appropriate foliar spraying. For most potted flowers and bonsai, they can be watered once a day, supplemented by foliar spraying. Watering time is before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer an acidic environment, a small amount of 0.1% light green ferrous sulfate powder can be added to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after autumn from summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, the amount and frequency of watering (or spraying) can be gradually increased. While watering potted plants, the soil should be loosened once every half month.
2. Fertilization. September is the period when most flowers are growing vigorously. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as temperatures gradually cool, so great attention should be paid to fertilization management this month. For foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica (rubber tree), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Dracaena fragrans (Brazilian wood), Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (philodendron), Rhapis excelsa (lady palm), Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (money tree/ZZ plant), Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Caryota mitis (fishtail palm), Epipremnum aureum (pothos), red (green) gem, green emperor, silver queen, Maranta/Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Ficus lyrata (fiddle-leaf fig), etc., still mainly apply low-concentration dilute fertilizer solution, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flowering trees and shrubs with a long blooming period or those whose peak blooming season is autumn, such as Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Lantana camara (three-color sage), Lantana camara (five-color sage), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens' (four-season osmanthus), Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), etc.; fruit-viewing plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara (bitter orange), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), Diospyros cathayensis (golden bullet), Callicarpa japonica (beautyberry), fruit pomegranate, etc.; and colorful-leaf plants such as Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata' (spotted laurel), Bromeliaceae species, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata' (variegated weeping fig), Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana' (golden-edged Brazilian wood), Cordyline fruticosa (ti plant), Coleus scutellarioides (coleus), etc., a fertilizer type with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied as a top dressing. For Fuchsia hybrida (lady's eardrops), Pelargonium (geranium), Zantedeschia aethiopica (calla lily), Cyclamen persicum, Begonia semperflorens (wax begonia), Daphne odora (winter daphne), Schlumbergera truncata (Christmas cactus), Sedum species (stonecrop), Portulacaria afra (elephant bush/jade leaf), Oxalis triangularis (purple shamrock), Clivia miniata (kaffir lily), Epiphyllum hybridum (orchid cactus), etc., which are resuming growth, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be resumed by watering. For flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the flower bud enlargement stage, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Rhododendron species (azalea), etc., a low-concentration fertilizer with balanced nutrients can be applied as a top dressing. For potted herbaceous flowers, such as Salvia splendens (scarlet sage), Tagetes erecta (marigold), Chrysanthemum morifolium, Callistephus chinensis (China aster), Dahlia pinnata, dwarf sunflower, etc., a light fertilizer can be applied every 10 days to meet their needs for bud formation and blooming next month.
3. Shading. In September, temperatures are still high and sunlight is still intense, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers cannot be relaxed. For shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Nephrolepis cordifolia (sword fern), Nephrolepis exaltata (Boston fern), Asplenium nidus (bird's nest fern), Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta/Calathea species, Epipremnum aureum, Rhapis excelsa, green emperor, silver queen, orchids, Dieffenbachia seguine (dumb cane), Syagrus romanzoffiana (queen palm), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Begonia species, Epipremnum pinnatum (dragon's tail), Philodendron 'Little Angel', red (green) gem, Anthurium crystallinum (crystal anthurium), Alocasia amazonica (African mask), Fittonia verschaffeltii (nerve plant), Pachystachys lutea (lollipop plant), Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern), Schefflera arboricola (umbrella tree), Pteris multifida 'Variegata', Peperomia argyreia (watermelon peperomia), Dieffenbachia picta (spotted dumb cane), Philodendron 'Green Giant', Anthurium andraeanum (flamingo flower), Platycerium (staghorn fern), Pilea peperomioides (Chinese money plant), Adina pilulifera, king palm, Dracaena sanderiana (lucky bamboo), etc., through shading, provide 5 to 6 hours of light per day. For sun-loving species, such as Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), Ginkgo biloba, Adina rubella, Pinus thunbergii (black pine), Platycladus orientalis (Chinese arborvitae, stump form), Juniperus chinensis (Chinese juniper), Lagerstroemia indica, Araucaria heterophylla, Wisteria sinensis, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Pyracantha fortuneana, Rosa chinensis, Xylosma congestum, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', etc., full sunlight can be provided. For semi-shade-loving species, such as Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Pinus parviflora (five-needle pine), Damnacanthus indicus, Syzygium buxifolium, Loropetalum chinense, Epiphyllum oxypetalum (night-blooming cereus), Nandina domestica, Crassula ovata (jade plant), Rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (fingered citron), Citrus aurantium var. amara, Fortunella margarita (kumquat), etc., appropriate shading can be provided around noon. Newly transplanted autumn herbaceous flowers should also be appropriately shaded to prevent wilting and to support their recovery.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue bud removal and disbudding work. For Rosa chinensis, Punica granatum (flowering pomegranate), Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bougainvillea spectabilis (paperflower), Lantana camara, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtanthus (coral flower), etc., pruning should be carried out after each blooming. For tree-stump bonsai species that tolerate pruning, sprout easily and grow vigorously, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea (Chinese sweet plum), Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa (banyan), Syzygium buxifolium, Ligustrum sinense (Chinese privet), Adina rubella, Buxus sinica (Chinese boxwood), Platycladus orientalis (stump form), Juniperus chinensis 'Monarch', Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', Tamarix chinensis (Chinese tamarisk), etc., continue pruning or bud pinching. In addition, Pachira aquatica seedlings can be braided into a "braid" and potted up.
5. Pest and disease control. For Aromia bungii (peach red-necked longhorn beetle) appearing on potted Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis (flowering crabapple), Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Prunus persica 'Bitao', etc., poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, or carbofuran granules can be buried for control. For Ceroplastes japonicus (Japanese wax scale), Icerya purchasi (cottony cushion scale), Diaspididae (armored scales), Eriococcus (felt scales), etc., appearing on potted flowering trees, apply 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, balconies still have strong sunlight and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have been placed on balconies for a long time or potted flowering trees with strong resistance can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song', Pinus densiflora (Japanese red pine), Pinus parviflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Acer buergerianum, Ilex cornuta (horned holly), Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly), Chimonanthus praecox, fruit-viewing pomegranate, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (stump form), Juniperus chinensis, Carmona retusa, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', Ficus microcarpa, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Rosa chinensis, Agave americana, Ginkgo biloba, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Celtis sinensis (Chinese hackberry), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Hemiptelea davidii, Serissa japonica (snowbush), Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Oncidium (dancing lady orchid), Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda, Arachnis (spider orchid), Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Clivia miniata, Fuchsia hybrida, Fittonia verschaffeltii, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens (areca palm), Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia (royal palm), Ficus species, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera arboricola, etc. Balcony flower propagation: In September, on the balcony, large-mouthed flower pots can continue to be used as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of half rice husk ash and half wet sand, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, for cutting propagation of some ornamental plants, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Cordyline fruticosa, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera arboricola, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Excoecaria cochinchinensis (red-back plant), Cyrtanthus, Pachystachys lutea, Michelia figo, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc. Water propagation indoors is also possible for Schefflera arboricola, Rosa chinensis, Gardenia jasminoides, Ficus carica (fig), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), etc.
Balcony flower management
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer moisture, such as Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Chloranthus spicatus, Bromeliaceae, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats spanning over a balcony water basin or water tank, or placed in a simple self-built sand bed, and normally misted instead of watered. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, more misting and less watering should also be done, to keep the potting soil loose and moist. Especially in air-conditioned rooms, water should be misted at least 1 to 2 times a day; otherwise, even a relatively drought-tolerant Pinus parviflora bonsai will dehydrate and die if not watered or misted for 5 to 7 days. For potted ornamental plants with strong resistance placed on the balcony, continue watering once a day and misting 1 to 2 times a day, or use the soak method to prevent the phenomenon of wet top and dry bottom in the potting soil. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Note that the water temperature should not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilization. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, appropriately apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer by watering. For vigorously growing potted stump bonsai, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once after each pinching and pruning. For potted flowering trees mainly grown for flowers and fruit, such as Michelia alba, Rosa chinensis, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer as a top dressing. For potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Osmanthus fragrans, Chrysanthemum morifolium, etc., according to the different species, apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a balanced multi-element compound fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. When applying fertilizer to flowers and trees on the balcony, the fertilizer type should not carry an unusual odor, especially not a foul smell. When watering it on, be careful not to splash downstairs and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering amount, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc. When there are not many potted flowers, they can be moved indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon. If there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull shade nets to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Platycladus orientalis (stump form), Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus procumbens (creeping juniper), Ligustrum sinense, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowering trees, dead branches, yellow leaves, spent flowers, and withered stems should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperatures and dry air, and potted flowers and trees are most prone to red spider mite damage. Spray with 25% Bijieba wettable powder at 1500 times dilution to kill them. For Semanotus bifasciatus (double-striped fir longhorn beetle) on Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuka', Juniperus chinensis, and Juniperus formosana bonsai, and Aromia bungii on Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis, Chaenomeles sinensis, Prunus persica 'Shoutao', etc., continue to insert poison sticks or bury carbofuran for control. For various scale insects harming Camellia japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lagerstroemia indica, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., when the number is small, they can be wiped off manually; when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.

Flower Planting Manual: Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures drop across most of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month, there are many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among the woody ornamental plants are: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus parviflora, Sciadopitys verticillata (Japanese umbrella pine), Pinus bungeana (lacebark pine), Abies firma (Japanese fir), Picea species (spruce), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi (broadleaf podocarp), Cycas revoluta (sago palm), Phoenix canariensis (Canary Island date palm), Yucca elephantipes (spineless yucca), Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense (Lanyu cinnamon), Osmanthus fragrans, Hibiscus mutabilis (confederate rose), Ficus elastica, Schefflera arboricola, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese hibiscus), Pseudolarix amabilis (golden larch), Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Rhapis excelsa, Beaucarnea recurvata (ponytail palm), Mahonia bealei (leatherleaf mahonia), Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ficus pandurata, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii (pygmy date palm), Ficus lyrata, Adenium obesum (desert rose), Cycas revoluta (South American cycad), Garcinia subelliptica (Fukugi tree), Bambusa ventricosa (buddha belly bamboo), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), Grevillea robusta (silver oak), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Ficus species, Murraya paniculata (orange jasmine), Nandina domestica, etc. Among the herbaceous flowers are: Salvia splendens, Canna generalis (canna lily), Dahlia pinnata, Callistephus chinensis, Chrysanthemum morifolium, small chrysanthemum, Begonia 'Dragon's Tail', Antirrhinum majus (snapdragon), Tagetes patula (French marigold), Tagetes erecta, Capsicum annuum (ornamental pepper), Celosia cristata (cockscomb), Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), Catharanthus roseus (Madagascar periwinkle), Gomphrena globosa (globe amaranth), Petunia hybrida, Impatiens hawkeri (New Guinea impatiens), etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China, and other places, when temperatures drop below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flower species planted in the north.

Courtyard flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony), Camellia chekiangoleosa (red-flowered oil camellia), Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, Aesculus species (buckeye), Calycanthus chinensis (Chinese sweetshrub), Ardisia species, Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Ilex kudingcha (kuding tea), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Viburnum tinus (Laurustinus), Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Phoenix roebelenii, Taxus chinensis (Chinese yew), Livistona chinensis (Chinese fan palm), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Ligustrum sinense, Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Weigela florida (old-fashioned weigela), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Taxodium distichum (bald cypress), etc. Among them, when sowing Aesculus species, the hilum should face downward; before sowing Calycanthus chinensis, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except for Calycanthus chinensis and Weigela florida seeds, which can be dry-stored until spring sowing, the seeds of the other species can be cleaned, stored in wet sand to promote germination until spring when the seeds crack and show white, and then sown. Note that before storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean. The moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released. The ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent drying out or mildew. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: Alcea rosea (hollyhock), Malva sylvestris (mallow), Papaver rhoeas (corn poppy), Calendula officinalis, Antirrhinum majus, Dianthus species, Viola tricolor (pansy), Parthenocissus tricuspidata (Boston ivy), Belamcanda chinensis (blackberry lily), Silene pendula (dwarf catchfly), Silene armeria (sweet William catchfly), Eschscholzia californica (California poppy), Bellis perennis (daisy), Rudbeckia hirta (black-eyed Susan), Iris species, Verbena hybrida (garden verbena), etc. Greenhouse flowers such as Tropaeolum majus (nasturtium), Sinningia speciosa (gloxinia), Petunia hybrida, Pericallis hybrida (cineraria), Primula obconica (German primrose), Gerbera jamesonii (Gerbera daisy), Calceolaria (pocketbook plant) can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cutting. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Schefflera arboricola, Cestrum nocturnum (night-blooming jessamine), Lantana camara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Mahonia species, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Clerodendrum thomsoniae (bleeding heart vine), Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia figo, Aucuba japonica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea' (red-leaf barberry), Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum' (golden-leaf privet), Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Gardenia jasminoides, Weigela florida, Spiraea cantoniensis (bridal wreath spirea), Spiraea japonica (Japanese spirea), Spiraea thunbergii (snowmound spirea), Hypericum chinense (St. John's wort), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Rosa chinensis, Viburnum macrocephalum (Chinese snowball), Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), Nerium oleander, Ficus carica, Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), etc. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice husk ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cutting. In addition, for cuttings of some southern flowers and trees, when the Frost's Descent (Shuangjiang) arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection work. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia 'Dragon's Tail', Tradescantia zebrina (inch plant), Epipremnum aureum 'Golden', Pilea cadierei (aluminum plant), Cyrtanthus, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Sanchezia nobilis, Chrysanthemum 'Cold chrysanthemum', etc. (This section is incomplete!!)

    3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old Pinus thunbergii seedlings as rootstock, bag and retain moisture to graft Pinus parviflora (including Pinus parviflora 'Osaka'); use peony roots as rootstock to graft superior varieties of Paeonia suffruticosa; use 1-year-old Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, bag and retain moisture to graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), Acer palmatum 'Dissectum' (laceleaf maple), etc.; use 1-year-old Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata, Magnolia × soulangeana (saucer magnolia), Magnolia liliflora (red-flowered magnolia), etc.; use Hylocereus undatus (three-ribbed arrow cactus) as rootstock to graft various cactus ball types; use 1-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft Fortunella margarita.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering include: Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea), Weigela florida (weigela), Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'Bayuegui', Viburnum macrocephalum (snowball), Viburnum macrocephalum, Magnolia liliflora, Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum chinense, Viburnum tinus, Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Forsythia viridissima (golden bells), Michelia figo, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, etc.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: Nandina domestica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia fortunei (Chinese mahonia), Paeonia suffruticosa, Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora' (double-flowered Japanese rose), Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea species, Cycas revoluta, etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Paeonia lactiflora (Chinese peony), Hosta plantaginea (fragrant plantain lily), Cymbidium goeringii, Hosta ventricosa (blue plantain lily), Strelitzia reginae (bird of paradise), Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Ranunculus asiaticus (Persian buttercup), Rudbeckia laciniata (cutleaf coneflower), Iris species, Belamcanda chinensis, Convallaria majalis (lily of the valley), Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Oxalis triangularis, Philodendron 'Multi-Leaf Green Emperor', Nephrolepis cordifolia, Aspidistra elatior, etc. Flower species that can be propagated by bulb division include: Zantedeschia aethiopica, Hippeastrum (amaryllis), Freesia (freesia), Lycoris radiata (red spider lily), Tulipa (tulip), Scilla peruviana (Portuguese squill), etc.

Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after the Frost's Descent (Shuangjiang) arrives and leaves fall, such as Hibiscus syriacus, Cercis chinensis (Chinese redbud), Prunus triloba (flowering almond), Punica granatum, Syringa (lilac), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Magnolia liliflora, Prunus persica 'Bitao', Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Rosa hybrida (flower carpet rose), Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, Nandina domestica, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis' (Chinese juniper), Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuka', Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea Nana', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Gardenia jasminoides, Euonymus japonicus (evergreen euonymus), Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri (Chinese boxwood), etc., when transplanting: first, prune back before transplanting; second, carry a good soil ball; third, strengthen watering and misting management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted out include: Dianthus chinensis (Chinese pink), Bellis perennis, Alcea rosea, Brassica oleracea var. acephala (ornamental kale), Viola tricolor, Calendula officinalis, Verbena hybrida, Phlox drummondii (annual phlox), Antirrhinum majus, Zephyranthes candida (rain lily), Ophiopogon japonicus (dwarf lilyturf), Reineckea carnea (pink reineckea), etc. Bulbous flower species that can be ground-planted include: Narcissus tazetta var. chinensis (Chinese narcissus), Narcissus poeticus (poet's narcissus), Tulipa, Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth), etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum (Chinese fringe flower), Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea Nana', Euonymus japonicus 'Aureus', Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Viburnum tinus, Ligustrum lucidum, Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum sinense, etc. Ball-shaped plants needing pruning include: Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuka', Buxus species, Myrica rubra (Chinese bayberry), Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Photinia species, Pittosporum tobira (Japanese pittosporum), Pyracantha fortuneana, etc. For continuously blooming ground-planted flowers and trees in the courtyard, such as Rosa chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Lantana camara, Bougainvillea spectabilis, etc., continue to cut off spent flowers and withered stems, and moderately prune back the branches that have already bloomed. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Gomphrena globosa, etc., promptly cut off the open inflorescences to encourage the side shoots to continue producing buds and blooming, thereby extending the ornamental period.

    3. Watering. For newly planted courtyard flowers and trees of the current year, continue good watering and misting work. First, keep the root soil moist, but there must be no standing water. Second, continue misting the leaf surfaces. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to retain moisture.

    4. Fertilization. For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, apply a quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For Osmanthus species that have finished blooming, open ring-shaped trenches and bury base fertilizer. For Rosa chinensis, Malus spectabilis, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus mutabilis, Camellia japonica, Michelia figo, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., that have been pruned, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer. For Nandina domestica and Pyracantha fortuneana in the fruit-viewing stage, as well as Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Diospyros cathayensis, etc. in the south, appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer by watering, which can effectively extend the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted Prunus mume, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus serrulata (cherry blossom), Malus spectabilis, etc., continue to use poison sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them, and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime sulfur mixture to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species whose seeds can be collected include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus species, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia denudata, Manglietia species, Magnolia grandiflora (southern magnolia), Magnolia delavayi (Yunnan magnolia), Magnolia amoena (Huangshan magnolia), Michelia champaca (yellow magnolia), Michelia foveolata (golden-leaf michelia), Michelia maudiae (Maud's michelia), Manglietia insignis (red-flowered manglietia), Michelia platypetala (flat-petaled michelia), Taxodium distichum, Rhapis excelsa, Ardisia crenata, Phoenix roebelenii, Livistona chinensis, Ilex kudingcha, Viburnum tinus, Cinnamomum camphora, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Viburnum macrocephalum, Malus halliana (hall crabapple), Chaenomeles sinensis, Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Taxus chinensis, Camellia oleifera (tea-oil camellia), etc. These seeds must all be stored in wet sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored include: Lagerstroemia indica, Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum, Pseudolarix amabilis, Metasequoia glyptostroboides (dawn redwood), Cryptomeria japonica (Japanese cedar), Sapium sebiferum (Chinese tallow tree), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree), Hibiscus mutabilis, Choerospondias axillaris (hog plum), Cercis chinensis, Camptotheca acuminata (happy tree), Bischofia polycarpa (Chinese bishopwood), Acer truncatum (Shantung maple), etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: Salvia splendens, Celosia cristata, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, Callistephus chinensis 'Small', Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Callistephus chinensis, Impatiens balsamina (garden balsam), Mirabilis jalapa (four o'clock flower), Kochia scoparia (burning bush), Helichrysum bracteatum (strawflower), Cosmos bipinnatus, Euphorbia marginata (snow-on-the-mountain), Euphorbia heterophylla (painted euphorbia), Mimosa pudica (sensitive plant), Codariocalyx motorius (telegraph plant), etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for Canna generalis, Dahlia pinnata, etc., when their aboveground parts are nearly withered, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keep the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and cut and replant them in spring next year.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, temperatures are still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and thorough. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as Ficus elastica, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, Epipremnum aureum, Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, etc., on sunny days it is suitable to water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species such as Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Clivia miniata, Portulacaria afra, Daphne odora, Pelargonium, Fuchsia hybrida, etc., the watering amount needs to be increased. For Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, etc., that bloom in winter and early spring, watering should be controlled and misting increased to facilitate the enlargement of their flower buds. In northern regions, for flower species relatively sensitive to cold, reduce watering, which can accelerate the lignification of new shoots and help them overwinter safely. The best watering time is 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilization. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn coolness, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer as a top dressing. For Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pericallis hybrida, Primula, Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Cymbidium sinense (Chinese cymbidium), Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Narcissus poeticus, etc., that bloom in winter or early spring, continue applying a mixture of 0.2% monopotassium phosphate and 0.1% urea. For most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants. For fruit-viewing potted plants, such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus limon (lemon), Fortunella margarita, Nandina domestica, Solanum pseudocapsicum (Jerusalem cherry), Ardisia crenata, Diospyros cathayensis, etc., in early to mid-October, a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing.

    3. Shading. For some foliage plant species that are very shade-loving, such as Dieffenbachia seguine, Monstera deliciosa, Maranta/Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron 'Emerald Gem', Nephrolepis exaltata, Peperomia species, etc., shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, first cut off dead branches and leaves, diseased and pest-infested branches, thin and weak branches, etc. For leggy branches, carry out severe pruning back. For binding materials that have been in place for 1 to 2 years after shaping, they can be removed, or removed and then re-bound, to prevent long-term binding at fixed positions from damaging the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to wither and die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species not tolerant of temperatures below 10°C can be promptly moved into greenhouses. For some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or tree-stump bonsai, at the end of the month they can be buried and planted in wind-sheltered, sunny soil to prevent the potting soil from freezing. Areas in the Yangtze River basin should accurately grasp weather change information and avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowers and trees, collect them uniformly, and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control aphids, chrysanthemum beetles, leafminer larvae, inchworms, and other pests.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    In early to mid-October on the balcony, there is still strong sunlight and dry air. Only those potted flowers and trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air balcony environment. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song', Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', Carmona retusa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuka', Buxus sinica, Punica granatum, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Ficus pandurata, Ginkgo biloba, Rosa chinensis, Jasminum sambac, Aglaia odorata, Cycas revoluta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, Tamarix chinensis, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc. Some cold-sensitive southern flower and tree species can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony when temperatures drop to 10°C. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary indoor spaces at the beginning of the month, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis (moth orchid), Oncidium, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and can be placed on the balcony at other times, such as Rhapis excelsa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Ficus species, Schefflera arboricola, etc. In northern regions, when temperatures drop to 10°C, the vast majority of flowers and trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Balcony flower propagation: In early October, on the balcony, wide-mouthed large flower pots can continue to be used as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of half rice husk ash and half wet sand, or vermiculite alone can be used as the cutting substrate, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, for cutting propagation of a small number of ornamental plants, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Schefflera arboricola, Ficus elastica, Aucuba japonica, Michelia figo, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Aglaonema modestum, Cyrtanthus, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Epipremnum aureum 'Golden', Pelargonium, etc.

Balcony flower management

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as Cycas revoluta, Ficus microcarpa, Ficus elastica, Schefflera arboricola, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, etc., water once a day, while also misting the leaves. For species that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron hybridum, etc., watering should not be excessive, while misting the branches and leaves can effectively promote the enlargement of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Aspidistra elatior, Cordyline fruticosa, Asplenium nidus, Anthurium andraeanum, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Maranta/Calathea species, Epipremnum aureum, etc., all should be mainly misted and supplemented by watering, to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilization. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, as well as Cymbidium hybridum, Bromeliaceae, Cymbidium sinense, etc., apply a mixture of 0.2% monopotassium phosphate and 0.1% urea by watering. For fruit-viewing plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Fortunella margarita, Fortunella hindsii (Hong Kong kumquat), Citrus limon, Nandina domestica, Diospyros cathayensis, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc., continue to apply a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer by watering. For Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, etc., apply dilute phosphorus and potassium fertilizer 1 to 2 times in early October to help them overwinter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering amount, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from compacting, continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc., especially for shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, more attention should be paid. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on clear days, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon. Shade nets set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Platycladus orientalis (stump form), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuka', Ligustrum lucidum, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been bound for more than a year, they can first be untied; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, a new binding position can be changed for further wiring and fixation, which can avoid severe damage to the plant caused by excessively deep constriction marks. For ordinary potted flowers and trees, such as Rosa chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree-stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, apply lime sulfur mixture to the trunk, which can both protect the trunk xylem and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases next year.
Flower Planting Manual (November)

    November weather characteristics: This month is the turn between autumn and winter. November 7 is the Beginning of Winter (Lidong), the start of winter in China, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze. November 22 is Minor Snow (Xiaoxue), when the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should focus on two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing trunks and eliminating pests, turning the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively doing cold protection and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic tunnels. This month's flower care management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, Begonia × tuberhybrida (tuberous begonia), Cyclamen persicum, Gerbera jamesonii, Clivia miniata, Asparagus setaceus, Hosta plantaginea, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be sown immediately after collection in November include: Spiraea cantoniensis, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina virginiana (eastern red cedar), Nageia nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sapindus mukorossi, Ardisia crenata, Trachycarpus fortunei, Viburnum tinus, Photinia species, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cutting. In November, open-field cuttings can be done, but plastic film mulching must be added. Flower and tree species for heat preservation and cold protection mainly include: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume (referring to varieties such as 'Lü'e' and 'Gongfen'), Rosa chinensis (referring to easy-to-root varieties such as flower carpet rose and 'Elizabeth'), Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Ulmus parvifolia, Serissa japonica, etc. Some of these root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flower and tree species that can be densely planted for cutting propagation in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in November include: Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Euonymus japonicus, Euonymus japonicus 'Variegatus', Pilea cadierei, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum chinense, Hypericum beanii (golden St. John's wort), Mahonia species, Serissa japonica 'Aureo-marginata', etc. If managed properly, complete root systems can grow by next spring, and they can be used for ground planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening forms. In winter, in greenhouses, cutting propagation can also be done for Begonia 'Dragon's Tail', Begonia species, Begonia nelumbiifolia (lotus-leaf begonia), Pelargonium, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia hybrida, Crassula ovata, Portulacaria afra, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, etc., and after spring begins they can be used for potting cultivation.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of Hibiscus mutabilis, Campsis grandiflora, Vitis vinifera (grape), etc. can also be cut and stored until spring next year for cutting, which can significantly speed up rooting and improve cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Use Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, bag indoors and graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum 'Dissectum'; use apricot seedlings or peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft Prunus mume (the graft union is buried in soil to overwinter); use thick strong branches of Rosa chinensis (variety 'Elizabeth') as rootstock scion, and branches of superior Rosa chinensis varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cutting, so that the graft union heals and the lower cut roots at the same time, which can accelerate the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of superior rose varieties.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering in November mainly include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Gardenia jasminoides, Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans' (dwarf gardenia), Punica granatum, Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Weigela florida, Osmanthus fragrans, Hydrangea macrophylla, Magnolia liliflora, Cupressus funebris (Chinese weeping cypress), Michelia figo, Spiraea cantoniensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Edgeworthia chrysantha (paperbush), Hypericum chinense, Hypericum beanii, Mahonia species, Buddleja lindleyana (Lindley's butterfly bush), Paeonia suffruticosa, Caragana sinica (Chinese pea shrub), Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum officinale (common jasmine), Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bambusa multiplex (hedge bamboo), Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf' (fernleaf bamboo), etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of Dahlia pinnata, Canna generalis, Canna generalis, etc. can be dug up, stored in sand until March next spring, and then cut, divided, and planted out.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Bletilla striata (hardy orchid), Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Belamcanda chinensis, Iris species, ornamental Bromeliaceae, Liriope platyphylla (big blue lilyturf), Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, Rohdea japonica (sacred lily), Aspidistra elatior, Kalanchoe daigremontiana (mother of thousands), etc.

    1. Seed collection. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Callistephus chinensis, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Hibiscus coccineus (scarlet rose mallow), etc.

    Flower and tree species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus taiwanensis (Huangshan pine), Pinus parviflora, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Chamaecyparis pisifera (sawara cypress), Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Plumosa', Chamaecyparis obtusa (hinoki cypress), Albizia julibrissin, Liquidambar formosana (Formosan gum), Camptotheca acuminata, Eucommia ulmoides (hardy rubber tree), Cornus alba (red twig dogwood), Sapium sebiferum, Wisteria sinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Caragana sinica, Spiraea cantoniensis. Flower and tree species that can be sown immediately after collection or must be stored in wet sand include: Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Trachycarpus fortunei, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina virginiana, Sapindus mukorossi, Lycium chinense (Chinese wolfberry), Taxus chinensis, Magnolia grandiflora, Ilex chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Photinia species, Photinia davidsoniae, Rosa chinensis (used for cultivating rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted for flowerbed planting and flower border arrangement in November include: Silene pendula, Dianthus chinensis, Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Viola tricolor 'Grandiflora', Antirrhinum majus, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, etc.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: Cinnamomum camphora, Magnolia grandiflora, Albizia julibrissin, Sapindus mukorossi, Ligustrum lucidum, Koelreuteria paniculata, Sapium sebiferum, Magnolia denudata, Osmanthus fragrans, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Aesculus species, Tilia species (linden), Cercis gigantea (giant redbud), Liriodendron chinense, Magnolia × soulangeana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Malus spectabilis, etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and main trunk must be appropriately pruned back or cut short, and most leaves removed, the main trunk bound with straw rope, and a large soil ball carried (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), to ensure survival. When transplanting deciduous trees, the main trunk can be cut short, large branches trimmed, a good soil ball carried, and the main trunk bound. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk misting management must be strengthened to ensure survival. In addition, cuts on the main trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent massive evaporation of water from the tree body.

    In November, Prunus mume stumps, Chimonanthus praecox, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. can be transplanted and potted, placed in plastic tunnels to force flowering, to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted Hyacinthus orientalis, Tulipa, Narcissus poeticus, etc. should be moved into plastic tunnels to promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, or rooms, in November the amount of watering is specifically based on keeping the potting soil moist, and it must not be too wet. If the temperature is low and watering is excessive, the plants easily rot at the roots and die. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, the watering amount should be appropriately increased, and necessary leaf misting should be given.

For potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron species, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pericallis hybrida, etc., as well as fruit-viewing plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus limon, Pyracantha fortuneana, Nandina domestica, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Ardisia crenata, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be misted frequently, to facilitate the enlargement and growth of flower buds and to make the fruit appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, and rooms, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be misted frequently, so that they always remain verdant and glossy. In relatively warm greenhouses and rooms, the watering amount can be increased. For foliage plants that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta/Calathea species, Dieffenbachia seguine, green emperor, Codiaeum variegatum, silver queen, etc., the watering amount should be controlled to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    In November, the best time for watering potted flowers is 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature is required to be basically consistent with the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants due to excessively low water temperature, which would then affect their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilization. For potted flowers placed indoors where the temperature is above 15°C, species such as Rhododendron hybridum, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Daphne odora, Pericallis hybrida, Cyclamen persicum, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hyacinthus orientalis, Clivia miniata, Tulipa, ornamental Bromeliaceae, Schlumbergera truncata, Aechmea (urn plant), etc., can continue to be top-dressed with low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Using 0.2% monopotassium phosphate fertilizer solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, top dressing should be stopped to help them overwinter normally in dormancy. For most ground-planted flowers and trees, such as Malus species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia × soulangeana, Manglietia species, Michelia chapensis (Leshan michelia), Michelia yunnanensis (cloud mountain michelia), Michelia figo, Michelia foveolata, Gardenia jasminoides, Aesculus species, Cinnamomum camphora, Spiraea species, Osmanthus fragrans, Vitis vinifera, Rosa chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Prunus serrulata, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Trachycarpus fortunei, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Paeonia suffruticosa, Forsythia viridissima, Paeonia lactiflora, Hypericum chinense, etc., dry cake fertilizer can be buried, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant; smaller plants can use less, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped forms that have not yet completed pruning. After pruning is completed, base fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned by cutting, carry out comprehensive shaping and pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma congestum, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', Pyracantha fortuneana, Serissa japonica, Juniperus chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chimonanthus praecox, Malus spectabilis, etc., to lay a good framework for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted Rosa chinensis that have not yet been pruned. For each plant, in addition to retaining 3 to 5 robust 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base and cut off all thin and weak branches. For unpruned ground-planted Lagerstroemia indica, carry out severe pruning back of the current year's branches. In addition to retaining a few coarse branches at 20 cm to 30 cm from the base, cut off all the other current year's branches, to facilitate more robust new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowers and trees in flowerbeds, along roadsides, and in courtyards, such as Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus fragrans, Cinnamomum camphora, Platanus orientalis (oriental plane), Magnolia liliflora, Forsythia viridissima, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus serrulata, Camellia japonica, Albizia julibrissin, Pyracantha fortuneana, Pittosporum tobira, Malus spectabilis, etc., cut off all those disordered branches, thin and weak branches, inner-canopy branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, etc., and appropriately prune back leggy branches protruding from the crown. In addition, in November, thick palm trunks can be peeled, and the trunks cleaned well, so that they show their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For potted flower and tree species that are not very sensitive to cold, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron species, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nandina domestica, Araucaria heterophylla, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Aglaonema, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus limon, Fortunella margarita, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera arboricola, Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Caryota mitis, Ficus elastica, Pachira aquatica, Phoenix canariensis, Rhapis excelsa, etc., they can be placed in plastic tunnels, as long as the room temperature is maintained at not lower than about 5°C.

For cold-sensitive potted flower species, such as Maranta/Calathea species, Dieffenbachia seguine, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron bipinnatifidum (deeply lobed philodendron), Aglaia odorata, Codiaeum variegatum, Sanchezia nobilis, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans (Brazilian iron), red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', green emperor, silver queen, Plumeria rubra (frangipani), Dracaena sanderiana, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Cymbidium faberi, etc., they should be placed indoors where room temperature is not lower than 10°C, or double-layer plastic tunnels can be used for winter protection.

For those relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowers and trees, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Malus species, Rhododendron simsii (Indian azalea), Punica granatum, Ulmus parvifolia, Lagerstroemia indica, Buxus sinica, Sageretia thea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pinus parviflora, Cupressus funebris, Juniperus chinensis, Acer buergerianum, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc., they can be directly buried together with the flower pots in wind-sheltered, sunny soil. Under conditions not lower than -10°C, freeze damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, plastic film and soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in a greenhouse, polytunnel or indoors in November, besides ensuring a certain temperature, ventilation should also be done well. Doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent the plants from being stuffy indoors for a long time, which causes flower drop, fruit drop and leaf drop; in addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not seep indoors, otherwise it can also easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, take care never to let the plants be directly hit by cold wind.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees and shrubs prone to leaf diseases, such as grapes, crabapples, roses, Chinese roses (Rosa chinensis), camellias and chrysanthemums, collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can noticeably reduce disease occurrence the following year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk style and split-trunk style stump bonsai, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the dead and split trunk parts for preservation, to prevent deep rotting of the stump's xylem.

For whiteflies, scale insects and the like appearing on potted flowering plants placed in greenhouses or polytunnels (they may occur on bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), orchids, camellias, clivia (Clivia miniata) and Aspidistra elatior), first wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second spray with pesticides such as methidathion.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange and Chinese rose), spray tobacco water for control.

For Western azaleas placed in polytunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as Yemianbao, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mould is extremely likely to occur.

    In November, the main types of bonsai plants suitable for styling are: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese incense-cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), silver cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera), procumbent juniper (Juniperus procumbens), Euonymus pendulus, serissa (Serissa japonica), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Japanese bittersweet (Euonymus japonicus), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), holly (Ilex spp.), boxleaf euonymus (Buxus sinica var. parvifolia), pearl boxwood (Buxus sinica var. parvifolia 'Zhenzhu'), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), and Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), etc.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and trained with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November, and the trunk and branches can be re-tied and adjusted.

For new tree stumps such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), water willow (Adina rubella), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana) and Elaeagnus pungens, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting and branch pruning, plant them in sandy loam fields using the shallow-burial, high-mounding method, and style them after they sprout in the coming year.

For stumps that have been cultivated and styled for 1 to 2 years and have basically taken shape, in November, according to the styling features of the trunk, roots and branches, select a suitable pot and repot them, pairing them with ornamental stones and dotted with moss, so they can be displayed indoors around the Spring Festival.

Well-styled tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine, ornamental peach (Prunus persica), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Chinese juniper and Chaenomeles speciosa can be potted in suitable containers in November; with strengthened water management, they can be used for display in squares, parks and grand halls the following spring.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month most parts of China enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south across China, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions drop below zero one after another, with frequent heavy frost. This month, flower and tree care should focus on three aspects: first, doing a good job of heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees brought into greenhouses, polytunnels and homes; second, doing a good job of pruning and cleaning open-ground flowers and trees and of turning the soil and applying fertilizer; third, doing the preparatory work of composting organic fertilizer and mixing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), clivia (Clivia miniata), tuberous begonia (Begonia × tuberhybrida), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum) and African daisy (Gerbera jamesonii), etc.; flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors right after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as 'Elizabeth'), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Ardisia crenata, hollies (Ilex spp.), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), palms (Trachycarpus fortunei), privet (Ligustrum lucidum), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), Chinese privet (Ligustrum sinense), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), photinia (Photinia serratifolia) and Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by open-ground cuttings in December include: plum blossom (mainly cultivars such as 'Gongfen' and 'Lüe'); Chinese rose (mainly easily rooting cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda roses and miniature roses); purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), wintersweet (heel cuttings), spiraea (Spiraea spp.) and boxwoods (Buxus spp.), etc. Among these, plum and purple-leaf plum cuttings should use yellow subsoil, Chinese rose cuttings should use a mixed medium of rice-hull ash and fine sand at 2:1, and other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film for heat and moisture retention.

In greenhouses, African violets (Saintpaulia ionantha) can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), geranium (Pelargonium hortorum), orchid cactus (Epiphyllum hybrid), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), jade plant (Crassula ovata), Echeveria, portulacaria (Portulacaria afra), mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), wax begonia (Begonia × semperflorens-cultorum), cane begonia (Begonia coccinea), Rieger begonia (Begonia × hiemalis), Chloranthus spicatus, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), bleeding heart glorybower (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), lantana (Lantana camara), Schefflera octophylla, winter daphne (Daphne odora), pothos (Epipremnum aureum) and Cordyline fruticosa, etc. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be taken of gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), goldheart (gold-edged) euonymus (Euonymus japonicus), mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), hypericum (Hypericum chinense), Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), false cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), serissa (Serissa japonica), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), silver-bud willow (Salix leucopithecia) and Triadica sebifera, etc. In addition, branches of Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), lilac (Syringa oblata) and grape can be cut and stored in sand, to be rooted by cuttings the following spring.

    3. Grafting. For superior plum cultivars such as 'Guhong' and 'Zhusha', in December, using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum or peach sown the same year, dig up the rootstocks and cleft-graft or cut-graft them, then plant them on the seedbed at a certain row and plant spacing, burying soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion, taking care that water does not seep into the union, and cover with plastic film for heat and moisture retention; the following spring, after the scion sprouts, remove the covering film. Using dug-up wild rose plants, bud-graft superior Chinese rose cultivars; or use vigorous branch sections of the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft the scion of a superior rose cultivar onto the upper end, then insert the grafted 'Elizabeth' scion section into a loose seedbed. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil, taking care that water does not seep into the union; cover with plastic film for moisture and heat retention, and the following spring, after the scion sprouts, remove the covering film; only after it has completely survived may a blade be used to cut the binding tape at the union. In addition, red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum') can be side-grafted indoors with bagging for moisture retention.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), plum blossom (Prunus mume), camellia (Camellia japonica), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), Michelia figo, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), weigela (Weigela florida), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia viridissima, hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), Spiraea cantoniensis, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, Spiraea thunbergii and pomegranate (Punica granatum), etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: rain lily (Zephyranthes candida), dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), Reineckea carnea, hosta (Hosta plantaginea), purple calyx hosta (Hosta ventricosa), oxalis (Oxalis corymbosa), Aspidistra elatior, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), iris (Iris tectorum), large-leaf lilyturf (Liriope muscari), Ophiopogon bodinieri, Rohdea japonica, mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana) and Aglaonema modestum. When cutting off the offsets at the base of a large variegated bromeliad plant for division, it must be a small plant that has already grown on the mother plant for three to four months; otherwise the colored bands of the divided offset easily disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), hypericum (Hypericum chinense), mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), Chaenomeles speciosa, bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea japonica), Caragana sinica, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Jasminum officinale, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Chloranthus spicatus, purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), sisal (Agave sisalana), Phoenix bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), and Pleioblastus fortunei, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. The herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally those of herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as salvias (Salvia splendens), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) and clivia (Clivia miniata), etc. Clivia seeds should be sown right after collection.

    The main woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December are: Chinese rose, wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), privet (Ligustrum lucidum), Chinese privet (Ligustrum sinense), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), Ardisia crenata, hollies (Ilex spp.), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora) and photinias (Photinia spp.). After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination, and only after the seeds crack open and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground; under dry storage they easily lose viability, leading to failure of sowing and seedling raising the following year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds and borders in December include: dianthus (Dianthus spp.), ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea var. acephala), large-flowered pansy (Viola × wittrockiana), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis) and daisy (Bellis perennis), etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in polytunnels, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, dianthus and pansy, etc., and can be used for street displays the following spring.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), pomegranate (Punica granatum), redbud (Cercis chinensis), crabapples (Malus spp.), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), Magnolia × soulangeana, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), linden (Tilia tuan), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), Chinese scholartree (Sophora japonica) and Sophora japonica var. pendula, etc. However, transplanting evergreen trees and flowering shrubs should be done more cautiously; evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet (Ligustrum lucidum), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), palms (Trachycarpus fortunei), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), azalea (Rhododendron simsii) and holly (Ilex spp.), etc. When transplanting, first heavily cut back the main shoot and large branches, and remove most of the leaves; at the same time, bring a large root ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, and seal the cut ends of the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them in film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowering plants that can be potted in December include: plum blossom, wintersweet stumps, camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua) and Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple (Malus halliana). Place them in polytunnels for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinths, tulips and pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus) should continue to be placed in polytunnels for flower forcing, which can bring them into bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic polytunnels with temperatures not lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering freeze damage, such as Asparagus densiflorus 'Sprengeri', asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Aspidistra elatior, Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), aucuba (Aucuba japonica 'Variegata'), Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), camellia (Camellia japonica), Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Phoenix bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), Pleioblastus fortunei and sago palm (Cycas revoluta), etc.

For ornamental plant species requiring overwintering temperatures not lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), Schefflera octophylla, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, monstera (Monstera deliciosa), Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea (Rhododendron obtusum), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), primrose (Primula malacoides), lantana (Lantana camara), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), lemon (Citrus limon), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), geranium (Pelargonium hortorum), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) and Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), etc., they can overwinter in double-layer plastic polytunnels. For species requiring overwintering temperatures not lower than 10°C, such as croton (Codiaeum variegatum), caladium (Caladium bicolor), peperomia (Peperomia spp.), arrowroot (Maranta arundinacea), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), fishtail palm (Caryota ochlandra), Brazilian iron (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), nerve plant (Fittonia verschaffeltii), bromeliads, Phyllotaenium lindenii, poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), Cymbidium hybridum, bleeding heart glorybower (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), Aglaia odorata, moth orchid (Phalaenopsis), cattleya orchid (Cattleya), Dendrobium, sago palm (Cycas revoluta), red (green) gem (Fittonia spp.), Oncidium and Cymbidium hookerianum, etc., inside well-sealed double-layer polytunnels, appropriate heating must also be provided; during particularly cold periods, from 4 pm to 9 am the next day, cover the top of the polytunnel with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature turns warm.

For relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), crabapples (Malus spp.), azalea (Rhododendron simsii), pomegranate (Punica granatum), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), Japanese bittersweet (Euonymus japonicus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), boxwoods (Buxus spp.), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese incense-cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), red cypress (Platycladus orientalis), water willow (Adina rubella), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta) and Chinese wingnut (Fraxinus chinensis), etc., when temperatures are not lower than -10°C they generally will not suffer freeze damage; in particularly cold weather, add a further covering of plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether bonsai, potted flowers and foliage or fruit ornamental plants are placed in polytunnels, greenhouses or homes, besides maintaining the corresponding indoor temperature, attention should also be paid to ventilation. Doors and windows can be opened for ventilation around noon, the warmest time of the day, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, be sure not to let cold wind blow directly on the plants, to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, polytunnels and homes, keep the potting soil moist; if the temperature is on the low side and watering is excessive, it easily causes root rot. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give appropriate foliar spraying.

For potted flowering plants that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), Belgian azalea (Rhododendron obtusum), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida), primrose (Primula malacoides), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis) and European narcissus (Narcissus spp.), and for fruit ornamentals such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), lemon (Citrus limon), Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), calamondin (Citrus microcarpa), Glycine max 'Jindou', winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Ardisia crenata and heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying must also be given, to help the flower buds swell and to increase the vividness of the flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, both keep the potting soil moist and give foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as Phyllotaenium lindenii, Syngonium podophyllum, arrowroot (Maranta arundinacea), croton (Codiaeum variegatum) and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc., when the room temperature is already close to the lowest temperature limit they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    In December, the best time for watering is the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water that is too cold.

For newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors, check frequently and give supplementary watering in time; for transplanted evergreen trees, give appropriate foliar spraying around noon to prevent the leaves from shriveling and dropping.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering plants, foliage plants and bonsai placed in ordinary polytunnels, fertilizing should be stopped, otherwise it easily causes root rot and death of the plants.

For most open-ground greening trees and flowering plants, such as crabapples (Malus spp.), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), manglietia (Manglietia fordiana), Michelia spp., red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), palms (Trachycarpus fortunei), Chinese peony (Paeonia lactiflora), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), Forsythia viridissima, hypericum (Hypericum chinense), grape, Chinese rose, spiraea (Spiraea spp.), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), mock orange (Philadelphus incanus), deutzia (Deutzia scabra), pomegranate (Punica granatum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), lilac (Syringa oblata), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), banksia rose (Rosa banksiae), hypericum (Hypericum chinense), weeping willow (Salix babylonica), cryptomeria (Cryptomeria fortunei), deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara), cypresses (Cupressaceae spp.), Sophora japonica var. pendula, flowering almond (Prunus triloba), Chinese bush cherry (Prunus japonica), white silk plum (Exochorda racemosa), photinia (Photinia serratifolia), redbud (Cercis chinensis) and rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), etc., in December, while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer edge of the root zone, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud and septic tank residue, etc., to lay a good material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), azalea (Rhododendron simsii), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), bromeliads, winter daphne (Daphne odora), cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida), primrose (Primula malacoides), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), clivia (Clivia miniata), tulip (Tulipa gesneriana) and freesia (Freesia refracta), etc., continue top-dressing with 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution to promote bud formation and flowering.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls and ball-shaped topiary not yet pruned in November; hedges and green walls such as privet (Ligustrum lucidum), Chinese privet (Ligustrum sinense), Ligustrum sinense 'Faqing', large-leaf euonymus (Euonymus japonicus), Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', four-season osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), Photinia davidsoniae, etc.; balls such as Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), Chinese bayberry (Myrica rubra), photinia (Photinia serratifolia), boxwoods (Buxus spp.), pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), Forsythia viridissima, firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuka') and Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), etc.; while completing the pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For open-ground flowering plants not yet pruned in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), palms (Trachycarpus fortunei), purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), photinia (Photinia serratifolia), plane tree (Platanus orientalis), plum blossom (Prunus mume) and wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), etc., carry out shaping and pruning; after pruning is finished, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the roots.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned rather than wired, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), Fukien tea (Carmona retusa), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Japanese bittersweet (Euonymus japonicus), Chinese wingnut (Fraxinus chinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), serissa (Serissa japonica), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese incense-cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), crabapple (Malus spp.) and papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), etc., continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for next year's growth; for plants not repotted for many years, repot them in conjunction with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering plants whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grapes, crabapples, roses, Chinese roses, camellias and crape myrtle, collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce disease occurrence the following year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida) and gray mold on primrose (Primula malacoides), control the former promptly with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For the types of flowering plants in greenhouses and polytunnels that are prone to scale insects, such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), camellia (Camellia japonica) and Aspidistra elatior, first wipe them once with a cloth, then control them with pesticides such as methidathion.

For the types of flowering plants on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), Chinese rose and Fukien tea (Carmona retusa), tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-ground flowering plants such as pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), plane tree (Platanus orientalis), camellia (Camellia japonica), Chinese privet (Ligustrum sinense), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), oleander (Nerium oleander), crabapple (Malus spp.), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), redbud (Cercis chinensis), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara), photinia (Photinia serratifolia), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) and wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), etc., various scale insects often appear, such as horned wax scale (Ceroplastes ceriferus), Japanese wax scale (Ceroplastes japonicus), red wax scale (Ceroplastes rubens), armored scales (Diaspididae), arrowhead scale (Unaspis yanonensis), mealybugs (Pseudococcidae) and felt scales (Eriococcidae), etc.; at this time, spraying with higher-concentration pesticides such as methidathion, quinalphos and buprofezin rarely causes phytotoxicity.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of seedling raising and potting soil mixing next year, use the idle winter time to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake and tea seed cake, etc., into water vats or ponds, add water and seal for soaking and fermentation.

Layer dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs and branches alternately with garden soil, set fire and burn to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix and compost barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc., with garden soil, seal for fermentation, and it can be used for top-dressing seedlings and mixing potting soil the following year.

    7. Mixing potting soil. Using the idle winter time, find a piece of open ground or a spot under tree shade and compost as much potting soil as possible, to meet the needs of repotting and potting herbaceous flowers the following spring. Generally use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mould (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, and 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco dust or rice-hull ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer; the garden soil and leaf mould should be sieved to remove stones, roots and other debris, then mix thoroughly, cover with plastic film, or pile it indoors; after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning the soil and freezing the clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cuttings and planting out seedlings, plowing can be done in December; for plots for sowing and planting out seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure and pond mud, etc., can be applied before turning; leave them without making beds for now, and after overwintering and freezing the clods, open furrows and make beds in early spring the following year, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai styling in December include: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), false cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese incense-cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), silver cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera), oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis), shimpaku juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku'), Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Japanese red pine (Pinus densiflora), water willow (Adina rubella), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), holly (Ilex spp.), Euonymus pendulus, ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), serissa (Serissa japonica), Caragana sinica, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), Chaenomeles cathayensis, boxleaf euonymus (Buxus sinica var. parvifolia), pearl boxwood (Buxus sinica var. parvifolia 'Zhenzhu'), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Fukien tea (Carmona retusa), Chinese wingnut (Fraxinus chinensis) and Japanese bittersweet (Euonymus japonicus), etc.

For bonsai plants fixed by wiring with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixing has already been in place for one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding should be removed and re-tied and trained with metal wire or palm rope.

For open-ground styled plum stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper and crape myrtle, etc., after some necessary pruning and shaping, select a suitable pot and plant them well, strengthen management, so they can be used for display in public places or indoors the following year.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and tree stump bonsai, careful management is essential: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant roots; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating the artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent the plants planted on the rockery from freezing to death or dying of dryness. They can be placed in a spot that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperatures and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, right around the "sanjiu" period, and most parts of China enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north moves south frequently, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperatures of the year occur. This month, the most important thing in flower care is heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai and the like in greenhouses, polytunnels and homes; next comes tree pruning, cleaning up dead branches and fallen leaves, and turning and preparing the soil, mixing potting soil and other auxiliary work.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), clivia (Clivia miniata), tuberous begonia (Begonia × tuberhybrida), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum) and African daisy (Gerbera jamesonii), etc. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in open ground include: Chinese rose ('Elizabeth'), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Ardisia crenata, holly (Ilex spp.), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), palms (Trachycarpus fortunei), photinia (Photinia serratifolia), Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), privet (Ligustrum lucidum), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum) and goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), etc.

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-ground or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: plum blossom (cultivars such as 'Lüe' and 'Gongfen'), purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), Chinese rose (cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda and miniature), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), wintersweet (with heel), spiraea (Spiraea spp.), boxwoods (Buxus spp.), pomegranate (Punica granatum), silver-bud willow (Salix leucopithecia), mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), serissa (Serissa japonica), Triadica sebifera, hypericum (Hypericum chinense), Forsythia viridissima, Spiraea thunbergii, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) and Jasminum officinale, etc. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Chloranthus spicatus, geranium (Pelargonium hortorum), fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), African violet (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea (Rhododendron obtusum), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), jade plant (Crassula ovata), jade leaf (Crassula arborescens), jade tree (Crassula ovata), Echeveria, night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), orchid cactus (Epiphyllum hybrid), Pilea cadierei, mirror grass (Pilea peperomioides), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), Rieger begonia (Begonia × hiemalis), bleeding heart glorybower (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), Schefflera octophylla, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), winter daphne (Daphne odora), Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Aglaonema modestum, pothos (Epipremnum aureum) and Cordyline fruticosa, etc. In addition, branches of lilac (Syringa oblata), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), grape, Weigela coraeensis, deutzia (Deutzia scabra), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), plane tree (Platanus orientalis) and fig (Ficus carica), etc., can be cut and stored in sand, to be rooted by cuttings in March.

    3. Grafting. For superior plum cultivars, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach or wild peach can be used as rootstocks for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, plant them on the seedbed and cover with plastic film for moisture and cold protection. In the Guangdong region, between Minor Cold and Major Cold, budding is often used to propagate calamondin (Citrus microcarpa) and kumquat (Fortunella margarita), etc.; using dug-up wild rose plants, bud-graft superior Chinese rose cultivars; using the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar as the rootstock-scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft superior rose cultivars, with grafting and cutting propagation carried out simultaneously, and cover with plastic film for moisture and cold protection.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), camellia (Camellia japonica), plum blossom (Prunus mume), weigela (Weigela florida), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Chaenomeles speciosa, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia viridissima, hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate (Punica granatum) and red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), large-leaf lilyturf (Liriope muscari), silver-edged lilyturf (Liriope spicata 'Variegata'), Reineckea carnea, rain lily (Zephyranthes candida), pink rain lily (Zephyranthes carinata), hosta (Hosta plantaginea), purple calyx hosta (Hosta ventricosa), purple-backed Rohdea (Rohdea japonica 'Purpurea'), Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), iris (Iris tectorum), spider plants (Chlorophytum spp.), Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema modestum, mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), bromeliads, small tulip (Tulipa humilis), shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet), monstera (Monstera deliciosa) and aloe (Aloe vera), etc. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), hypericum (Hypericum chinense), mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), Chaenomeles speciosa, bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), Spiraea thunbergii, red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea japonica), Caragana sinica, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Jasminum officinale, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Chloranthus spicatus, Damnacanthus indicus, gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Triadica sebifera, boxwood (Buxus spp.) and purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), etc.

    6. Collecting seeds. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus) or clivia (Clivia miniata) seeds in the greenhouse, sow them right after collection; mature winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum) seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), hollies (Ilex spp.) and Ardisia crenata, etc., can be harvested; after treatment, carry out sand stratification for germination, and sow only after the seeds crack open and show white.

    In January, frequently check seeds stored in sand, including magnolias (Magnolia spp.), Michelia spp., photinias (Photinia spp.) and hollies (Ilex spp.), etc., to see whether the seeds have become moldy; if mold appears, pour out the seeds, rub and wash them again, and replace with clean fine sand for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, give supplementary spraying in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked open and shown white or the radicle has emerged, they must be sown immediately, and covered with plastic film, rice straw or pine needles for heat and moisture retention.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in less cold regions include: dianthus (Dianthus spp.), ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea var. acephala), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis) and daisy (Bellis perennis), etc.; in colder regions, after potting seedlings of dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), pansy (Viola × wittrockiana) and primrose (Primula malacoides), etc., first place them in simple plastic polytunnels, and after spring returns and the weather warms, use them for display in street flower beds, green spaces and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), pomegranate (Punica granatum), redbud (Cercis chinensis), crabapples (Malus spp.), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), maples (Acer spp.), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), Magnolia × soulangeana, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), linden (Tilia tuan), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea japonica), Triadica sebifera, Chinese rose, Chinese scholartree (Sophora japonica) and Sophora japonica var. pendula, etc. Evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora) and Ligustrum sinense 'Faqing', etc., should in this month, except in special cases, generally be transplanted earlier in December or later in February; of course, in sheltered spots, with heavy cut-back after transplanting and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also possible.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not hinder collecting wild tree stumps during forestry afforestation site preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), azalea (Rhododendron simsii), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Japanese maple (Acer palmatum), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), wild plum (Prunus mume), Elaeagnus pungens and Euonymus pendulus, etc.; for evergreen tree stumps such as heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Ilex pernyi, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), holly (Ilex spp.) and Japanese bittersweet (Euonymus japonicus), etc., heavy cut-back must be done and most of the leaves removed. Whether deciduous or evergreen tree stumps, they should be cultivated by the shallow-burial, high-mounding method and covered with straw curtains for freeze protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management; the slightest negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the lowest temperature each different flower species can endure, create a special environment for their safe overwintering, either in a greenhouse, in a polytunnel, at home, or planted in open ground. In simple plastic polytunnels with temperatures not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can endure low temperatures of around 0°C can be placed, such as Asparagus densiflorus 'Sprengeri', asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Aspidistra elatior, Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), aucuba (Aucuba japonica), Michelia figo, Cymbidium goeringii, Dendrobium, Ardisia crenata, winter daphne (Daphne odora), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Acorus calamus, Phoenix bamboo (Bambusa multiplex) and Pleioblastus fortunei, etc. In double-layer plastic polytunnels with temperatures not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can endure low temperatures of around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia alba, parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans), Diospyros armata, calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, monstera (Monstera deliciosa), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), lemon (Citrus limon), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), orchid cactus (Epiphyllum hybrid), Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), Belgian azalea (Rhododendron obtusum), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis) and lantana (Lantana camara), etc. In double-layer plastic polytunnels or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can endure low temperatures of around 10°C can be placed, such as croton (Codiaeum variegatum), caladium (Caladium bicolor), Syngonium podophyllum, arrowroot (Maranta arundinacea), bromeliads, peperomia (Peperomia spp.), coleus (Coleus scutellarioides), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), fishtail palm (Caryota ochlandra), Brazilian iron (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), nerve plant (Fittonia verschaffeltii), red (green) gem (Fittonia spp.), Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Philodendron 'Imperial Red', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Aglaia odorata, Cymbidium hybridum, moth orchid (Phalaenopsis), cattleya orchid (Cattleya), Oncidium, Vanda, money tree (Zamioculcas zamiifolia), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), desert rose (Adenium obesum), Phyllotaenium lindenii, poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea) and coral plant (Cyrtanthus), etc.; during particularly cold periods, from 4 pm to 9 am the next day, it is advisable to cover the top of the polytunnel with straw curtains, and stop covering only after the temperature turns warm. On very cold days, strengthen inspections of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise it easily causes freeze damage to the plants. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), crabapples (Malus spp.), azalea (Rhododendron simsii), pomegranate (Punica granatum), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), Japanese bittersweet (Euonymus japonicus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), boxwoods (Buxus spp.), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese incense-cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), summer cypress (Biota orientalis), oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), small bayberry (Myrica rubra), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), holly (Ilex spp.) and Chinese wingnut (Fraxinus chinensis), etc., they can be buried in the soil together with the flower pots; when temperatures are not lower than -10°C they generally will not suffer freeze damage, and in particularly cold weather, add a further covering of plastic film or soft grass for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in polytunnels, greenhouses or homes, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, besides maintaining the corresponding air temperature, ventilation should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened for ventilation around noon, the warmest time of the day, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold wind blowing directly on the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and polytunnels during each cold air movement southward; if broken glass or torn film is found, plug and repair it in time, so as not to freeze the potted flowers. When supplying coal, gas or oil heating to the greenhouse, also check carefully that no leaking gas or smoke enters the greenhouse or polytunnel, to prevent smoke damage and the like from causing flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop.

To bring potted tree peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa) into bloom at the Spring Festival, place the potted tree peonies in a greenhouse, heat to 18°C to 25°C during the day, keep around 10°C at night, and increase lighting by 4 to 5 hours per day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum blossom, wintersweet, camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple (Malus halliana) and winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), etc., can also be placed in polytunnels at around 15°C for flower forcing, with appropriately increased lighting time, to meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering plants during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus) and freesias (Freesia refracta), etc., that were placed in greenhouses in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival. [page]

IV. Watering

    In January, for the watering management of potted flowers, the most important thing first is to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature broadly consistent with the soil temperature; if the difference between the two is too great, it easily causes adverse reactions in potted plants, even causing leaf drop, root rot or death. The best time for watering is the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency and method of watering; for most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, polytunnels and homes, it is suitable to keep the potting soil moist; when the temperature is on the low side, reduce watering accordingly, and when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give foliar spraying. For the vast majority of foliage plants, both keep the potting soil moist and pay attention to foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as Phyllotaenium lindenii, Syngonium podophyllum, arrowroot (Maranta arundinacea) and croton (Codiaeum variegatum), etc., when the temperature approaches the lower limit the plant can tolerate, especially control the amount of watering. For potted flowers that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), Belgian azalea (Rhododendron obtusum), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), primrose (Primula malacoides), hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana) and pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), etc., and fruit ornamentals such as firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), Ardisia crenata, kumquat (Fortunella margarita), Glycine max 'Jindou' and winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), etc., not only keep the potting soil moist, but also must spray the plants, to help the flower buds swell and to increase the vivid color of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in out-of-the-way spots from lacking water; replenish water in time for plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and give supplementary watering in time; especially for transplanted evergreen ornamental plants, give appropriate foliar spraying around noon, to prevent the leaves from shriveling and dropping due to overly dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most open-ground greening trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapples (Malus spp.), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Magnolia × soulangeana, manglietia (Manglietia fordiana), Michelia spp., maples (Acer spp.), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), linden (Tilia tuan), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), palms (Trachycarpus fortunei), Schima superba, Machilus, purple tree (Nyssa sinensis), camptotheca (Camptotheca acuminata), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), Forsythia viridissima, boxwood (Buxus spp.), grape, coral tree (Viburnum odoratissimum), Chinese rose, hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), Chinese bush cherry (Prunus japonica), flowering almond (Prunus triloba), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), deutzia (Deutzia scabra), mock orange (Philadelphus incanus), banksia rose (Rosa banksiae), Elaeocarpus sylvestris, golden silk willow (Salix × aureo-pendula), weeping elm (Ulmus pumila var. pendula), cryptomeria (Cryptomeria fortunei), Taiwania cryptomerioides, deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara), Chinese scholartree (Sophora japonica), Sophora japonica var. pendula, white silk plum (Exochorda racemosa), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), lilac (Syringa oblata), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), photinia (Photinia serratifolia), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), purple bamboo (Phyllostachys nigra), pomegranate (Punica granatum) and loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), etc., if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud and septic tank cleanings, etc., around the outer edge of the tree root zone, to lay a good material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at around 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea (Rhododendron obtusum), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), winter daphne (Daphne odora), cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida), primrose (Primula malacoides), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), tulip (Tulipa gesneriana), colorful bromeliad (Aechmea fasciata), clivia (Clivia miniata), bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae) and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), etc., continue top-dressing with low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution, to help the plants grow and form buds and bloom.

For most potted flowering plants, foliage plants and bonsai placed in polytunnels, because the plants are dormant in winter, fertilizing should be stopped, otherwise it easily causes root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

Continue pruning hedges, green walls and topiary balls not yet pruned in December; continue pruning flowering shrubs not yet pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), banksia rose (Rosa banksiae), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), floribunda rose, camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), plane tree (Platanus orientalis), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), photinia (Photinia serratifolia), pomegranate (Punica granatum), purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), palms (Trachycarpus fortunei) and grape, etc.; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer edge of the root zone to meet the needs of spring growth.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned and secondarily wired, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), Fukien tea (Carmona retusa), Japanese bittersweet (Euonymus japonicus), Chinese wingnut (Fraxinus chinensis), water willow (Adina rubella), Elaeagnus pungens, firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), serissa (Serissa japonica) and Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), etc., continue, according to the original composition requirements and the development and change trends of the plant trunk and branches, to adjust and prune according to personal aesthetic taste, laying a good foundation for spring growth and shaping. While pruning, plants not repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For the main trunks or large branches of crabapples (Malus spp.), plums (Prunus mume), flowering almonds (Prunus triloba), papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata) and purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), etc., that have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles (Aromia bungii) and the like, they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunk and branches burned.

Clean up the fallen leaves under Chinese roses, roses, grapes and crape myrtle, gather them and burn them in a centralized way, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases the following year.

For horned wax scale (Ceroplastes ceriferus), Japanese wax scale (Ceroplastes japonicus), red wax scale (Ceroplastes rubens), cottony cushion scale (Icerya purchasi), armored scales (Diaspididae), arrowhead scale (Unaspis yanonensis), mealybugs (Pseudococcidae) and soft scales (Coccidae) appearing on the trunks and branches of pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), plane tree (Platanus orientalis), privet (Ligustrum lucidum), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), persimmon (Diospyros kaki), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) and photinia (Photinia serratifolia), etc., spray with high-concentration methidathion, quinalphos, buprofezin and lime-sulfur mixture, etc., which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida) in greenhouses and gray mold easily appearing on primrose (Primula malacoides) leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mould appearing simultaneously on bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis) and kumquat (Fortunella margarita), etc., in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first wipe off the sooty mould patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches with a damp cloth, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) plants in greenhouses, spray 50% iprodione wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake and tea seed cake, etc., into water ponds or vats, soak and ferment, so as to be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; layer withered grass, branches and fallen leaves alternately with garden soil, set fire and burn to make home-made burned soil, which can be used as covering soil when sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix and compost barnyard manure, pond mud, tobacco dust, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc., with garden soil, and it can be used as fertilizer for mixing potting soil.

IX. Plowing and Freezing the Clods

For nursery land not yet plowed in December, seize the time to plow in early January; while plowing the garden plot, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer and farmyard manure, etc.; after overwintering and freezing the clods, open furrows and make beds in early spring, for use in sowing and planting out seedlings.

Because January is particularly cold, the plant species suitable for styling must be those with soft, tough branches that are easy to shape, such as Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese incense-cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), boxleaf euonymus (Buxus sinica var. parvifolia), silver cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), serissa (Serissa japonica), creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis), shimpaku juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku'), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Huangshan pine (Pinus hwangshanensis), Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii), water willow (Adina rubella), Caragana sinica, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Euonymus pendulus, banyan (Ficus microcarpa) and wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), etc. After styling, the plants are best placed indoors or in simple plastic polytunnels, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms, which helps the healing of parts possibly damaged during styling.

For plants styled 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire, etc., if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, the original binding should be removed and re-tied and trained.

    In January, for some shallow-pot tree stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai and small and miniature bonsai, management must be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried on indoor sand beds; for tree stump bonsai, prevent the potting soil from freezing, which damages the plant's fibrous roots and can cause the artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate; also prevent the plants planted on the small rocks from dying after freezing; it is best to place them in a spot that does not freeze, and water and spray them regularly, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

In February, your flowers need this care!

Weather characteristics in February: This month is the last month of winter and, after January, the coldest period of the year. By the end of February, the weather gradually warms as it transitions toward spring, and quite a few flowers begin to shift from winter dormancy into a recovery phase.

This month's main gardening tasks are as follows: first, continue the cold-protection and heat-preservation work for potted flowers inside protective structures; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowering plants after they bloom; third, complete the preparatory work for cuttings, grafting propagation and seed sowing of a number of flower species.

I. Flower propagation

1. Sowing.

Flower species that can be sown in a greenhouse or plastic tunnel in February include: pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), dwarf sunflower, asparagus fern (Asparagus plumosus), gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), tuberous begonia, red-blue flower, cornflower (Centaurea cyanus), blanket flower (Gaillardia), strawflower (Helichrysum bracteatum), scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), marigold (Tagetes), peacock chrysanthemum, dwarf petunia, California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), phlox (Phlox drummondii), slipper flower (Calceolaria), butterfly flower (Schizanthus), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), pansy (Viola tricolor), and so on. By the end of February, seeds that can be sown outdoors in open ground include: sand-stored seeds of magnolia, michelia, photinia, maple and crabapple (Rosaceae) that have already cracked and shown white; also camphor tree, Chinese tulip tree, glossy privet, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, palm, goldenrain tree, soapberry, horse chestnut, lilac, and so on; seeds of wintersweet, summer sweetshrub and wisteria should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours until they have absorbed enough water before sowing. Tuberose bulbs and amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in a greenhouse or plastic tunnel in February.

2. Cuttings.

Woody ornamental plants that can be propagated in February by cuttings in open ground or by cuttings covered with plastic film to retain moisture include: plum blossom (cultivars such as Gongfen and Lüe, taking one-year-old branches after flowering), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), cotton rose (in southern regions), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), winter daphne (in southern regions), paper bush (Edgeworthia chrysantha), pomegranate, forsythia (Forsythia viridissima), winter jasmine, jasmine (Jasminum), serissa (Serissa japonica), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), hypericum (Hypericum), spiraea, mahonia, boxwood (Buxus), and beautyberry (Callicarpa), and so on. Sand-stored branches of lilac and Chinese trumpet creeper can also be used for cuttings at this time. In early February, branches of weigela, deutzia, hydrangea, tamarisk, plane tree, grape and fig can still be cut and stored for cuttings at the end of March.

Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings indoors in February include: Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), begonia (Begonia coccinea), Excoecaria cochinchinensis, scarlet sage, geranium (Pelargonium), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus (Chloranthus spicatus), fingered citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), jade plant (Crassula ovata), jade leaf, stone lotus (Echeveria), gem flower (Graptopetalum paraguayense), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), orchid cactus (Epiphyllum), clearweed (Pilea), mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), Rieger begonia, bleeding heart glorybower (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), dwarf umbrella tree (Schefflera), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), and cordyline (Cordyline fruticosa), and so on.

3. Grafting.

Indoors, using one-year-old robust Japanese black pine seedlings as rootstock, graft Japanese white pine, Japanese five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Nishiki pine (Pinus thunbergii 'Nishiki'), lacebark pine (Pinus bungeana), and so on, then plant them in the ground and cover with plastic film to retain heat and moisture. Using one-year-old seedlings of apricot and wild peach as rootstock, propagate redleaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach and purple-leaf peach by cut grafting. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on wintersweet branches grow to the size of a wheat grain, use wintersweet seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock and cut-graft excellent cultivars of wintersweet such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou' and 'Huti'; by adopting the measure of bagging and inflating to retain moisture, the survival rate is relatively high. Using robust branches of the rose cultivar 'Elizabeth' as rootstock and scion wood, cut-graft or cleft-graft scions of excellent rose cultivars, and adopt the measures of grafting first, then cutting, then covering with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold; this can greatly increase the survival rate of grafting.

4. Layering.

Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chaenomeles speciosa, osmanthus, purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), gardenia, weigela, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Calocedrus macrolepis, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), winter jasmine, forsythia (Forsythia viridissima), hypericum, hydrangea, snow-wreath (Neillia), spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), red maple, and michelia, and so on.

5. Division.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: iris, blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), big-leaf lilyturf, silver-edged lilyturf, Japanese sacred lily (Reineckea carnea), rohdea (Rohdea japonica), bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis), hosta (Hosta plantaginea), purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), small tulip, bromeliads, purple-backed wandering jew (Tradescantia spathacea), Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern (Nephrolepis), spider plant (Chlorophytum), mother of thousands, canna, arrowroot (Maranta), monstera (Monstera deliciosa), arrowhead vine (Syngonium), bird of paradise (Strelitzia), clivia, and aloe, and so on. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: heavenly bamboo, cotton rose, hypericum, mahonia, hydrangea, Chaenomeles speciosa, paper bush, winter jasmine, forsythia, Caragana, spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), red-flowered spiraea, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus, tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), purple magnolia, four-season osmanthus, bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), and dwarf white-striped bamboo (Sasa fortunei), and so on.

II. Seed collection and transplanting for permanent planting

1. Seed collection.

In February, seeds of heavenly bamboo, holly species, Ardisia crenata, winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum) and so on can be harvested; after processing, store them in sand to promote germination, and sow only after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

In February, pay attention to checking various sand-stored flower and tree seeds to see whether any seeds have become moldy; if mold occurs, clean them promptly; if seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with spraying water to maintain a certain humidity in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, sow them within a relatively short time; once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle and affect the seedling emergence rate of the seeds. Large sand-stored seeds can be sown at fixed points, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows; after sowing, be careful to cover with grass or add plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

2. Transplanting for permanent planting.

In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and temperatures are relatively high, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted for permanent planting include: dianthus species, snapdragon, hollyhock (Alcea rosea), silver-edged holly, daisy (Bellis perennis), pot marigold, and so on.

In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be planted permanently. Among the deciduous types are rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud (Cercis chinensis), crabapple species, ginkgo, sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), maple species, wisteria, crape myrtle, wintersweet, plum blossom (before sprouting and leafing out), magnolia species, soapberry, silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), horse chestnut, redleaf plum, cherry blossom, Chinese quince (Chaenomeles sinensis), Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, Chinese tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), spiraea, Triadica, deutzia, Japanese pagoda tree (Sophora japonica), Sophora japonica var. pendula, Chinese bush cherry (Prunus japonica), elm-leaved spirea (Spiraea trilobata), hypericum, weeping willow, golden weeping willow, cotton rose, smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria), persimmon, apricot, and so on; evergreen tree species such as michelia species, camphor tree, Elaeocarpus, French holly, Machilus, and purple nanmu can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; osmanthus, glossy privet, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, oriental arborvitae, Japanese black pine and so on should be given moderate pruning when planted.

III. Flower management

1. Cold protection.

The weather in February is still cold; after two consecutive months of indoor (or tunnel) maintenance, potted ornamental plants have consumed relatively more nutrients, and the resistance of the plants has greatly declined, so careful moisture-retention and cold-protection work should continue. If there is heating equipment in the greenhouse or plastic tunnel, continue heating, and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, continue hanging them; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, even more care should be taken.

For overwintering potted flowers placed inside protective structures, continue ventilation and air exchange; especially by the end of February, the ventilation time can be extended during the period of the day when the temperature is highest. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For small numbers of cold-sensitive flowers kept in the home, such as mock lime (Aglaia odorata), Phalaenopsis, Calathea, Syngonium, begonia (Iron Cross begonia), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), and pink lady leaf, and so on, on especially cold days, plastic bags can be put over them at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom and heating appliances such as a "bath heater" turned on to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

2. Watering.

Because temperatures are relatively low in February, for the vast majority of potted flowers it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, since root growth has stopped at this time and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low; once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor environments, frequently spray water and mist on the leaves of plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases the leaves lose green color and luster and flower buds stop growing; in severe cases the leaves shrink and wrinkle and flower buds shrivel and fall off, as with camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), kumquat, winter cherry and so on, all of which may drop buds and fruit or even die. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor or tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria (Pericallis hybrida), primrose (Primula), kalanchoe, camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, pot marigold and so on, and for fruit-viewing plants such as firethorn, Nandina, bitter orange, fingered citron, lemon, Ardisia crenata, four-season mandarin, winter cherry and so on, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds and fruit; only in this way can the leaves be emerald green, the flower buds expand rapidly, and the fruit be brightly colored. Especially for peony, plum blossom, Chaenomeles speciosa, and Malus halliana and so on placed in a tunnel for forcing, the branches must also be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For large-flowered Cymbidium purchased after being cultivated in a greenhouse or tunnel, because the temperature and humidity in their original greenhouse or tunnel differ greatly from those in the home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often become wrinkled and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese five-needle pine bonsai and so on, their potting soil must be kept moist and the plants sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day; otherwise the plants may very likely die.

In February, although the vast majority of potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened; especially during several consecutive days of rising temperatures, supplementary watering and spraying should be increased in a timely manner.

 In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, water should be supplemented in a timely manner; especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, around noon on clear days they should also be appropriately sprayed with water on the leaves to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off afterward and affecting the resumption of growth in spring.

3. Fertilizing.

In February, base fertilizer can continue to be buried for most greening trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground; fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings and so on; these can be applied by digging ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant root system and then covering with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

In February, for potted flowers placed in a 10°C to 15°C greenhouse (tunnel), such as camellia, sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Belgian azalea, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), winter daphne, plum blossom, European narcissus, hyacinth, tulip, Christmas cactus, orchid cactus, bromeliads, tillandsia, guzmania, clivia and so on, low-concentration monopotassium phosphate can continue to be applied as a top dressing to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants and tree-stump bonsai placed in tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai and so on, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.

4. Pruning.

In February, for plum blossom, wintersweet, forsythia (Forsythia viridissima), winter jasmine and so on that have bloomed, whether planted in the ground or in pots, severe renewal pruning can be carried out; for branches that have bloomed, except for retaining 2 to 3 buds at the base, all the rest should be cut off, to encourage the plant to produce many new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches and so on should also be pruned at the same time. For tree-stump bonsai types that are mainly pruned, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese boxthorn (Sageretia thea), banyan, trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus hupehensis, Adina rubella, Elaeagnus pungens, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), holly, serissa, Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), and Japanese juniper (Juniperus rigida), continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them while pruning.

5. Repotting.

Late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants; generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is resuming growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: Chinese hibiscus, geranium, mock lime, Michelia alba, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus, Brunfelsia (Brunfelsia pauciflora), Excoecaria cochinchinensis, sword fern, monstera, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), fuchsia, begonia (Begonia coccinea), wax begonia, painted-leaf begonia, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, sago palm (Cycas revoluta), clivia, Haworthia, aloe, Christmas cactus, orchid cactus, sedum, jade plant, jade leaf, kalanchoe, amaryllis, asparagus fern, spider plant, Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), dwarf umbrella tree, rohdea, bird of paradise, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, coral flower, bleeding heart glorybower, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, hydrangea, heavenly bamboo, croton, arrowhead vine, arrowroot, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, bitter orange, kumquat, fingered citron and so on.

6. Pest and disease control.

For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in the greenhouse, and gray mold appearing on the leaves of primrose and so on, at the early stage of disease choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution and spray; spray once every 10 days, and 2 to 3 consecutive sprays are sufficient.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted cyclamen in the tunnel, 50% iprodione (main component iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution can be sprayed.

For potted Belgian azalea in the tunnel, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao" on the leaves, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer sprayed on the plant is difficult to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in the greenhouse (such as bitter orange and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush; when there are many insects, 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution can be sprayed to kill them. After aphids, scale insects and ants are killed, sooty mold will also disappear accordingly.

For insect bodies such asscale insect, white peach scale (Pseudaulacaspis pentagona), oystershell scale (Lepidosaphes ulmi), and black-brown round scale and so on appearing on potted flower plants in the tunnel, they can be brushed off with a stiff brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or sprayed with 2.5% cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% aldicarb granules in the flower pot.

Continue clearing dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted plants, and burn them in a centralized manner; this can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

7. Composting fertilizer.

Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, bean cake and so on into a water tank or water vat, add clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that in the growing season it can be diluted and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer and so on; after about 2 months, spread it out to dry in the sun, and after it is fully dried, pack it well in plastic bags; the thoroughly composted and sun-dried granular powder of cake fertilizer can be scattered in flower pots as a top dressing; for Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, large-flowered Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya and other potted flower species, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer; especially when growing flowers on a balcony, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used to mix potting soil.

8. Turning and freezing soil.

In early February, continue turning and digging garden plots that have not yet been plowed; after overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, then open furrows and make beds for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include Calocedrus macrolepis, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), oriental arborvitae, true juniper, ginkgo, serissa, creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis), Japanese five-needle pine, Huangshan pine (Pinus taiwanensis), Japanese black pine, thousand-head red pine, Adina rubella, Caragana, small golden coin plum, Corylopsis, Chaenomeles speciosa, crape myrtle, banyan, Chinese elm, trident maple, and so on.

Continue re-wiring and adjusting plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago; if plants are found to have sunken binding constriction marks, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, then replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, rock-attached bonsai and so on, continue the work of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially glued rocks from freezing, cracking and disintegrating, causing losses that should not occur.