What to do when a gloxinia wilts? Repotting, temperature control and proper watering and fertilizing are key

Gloxinia flowers have many benefits, but the most impressive is their ornamental value: among the large, emerald-green leaves bloom several beautiful flowers that make anyone love them from the bottom of their heart. So when the leaves wilt, flower lovers must be very anxious! So what should you do when a gloxinia wilts? Today the editor will solve this problem for everyone.

1. When a gloxinia wilts, find the cause

As a common ornamental flower, the gloxinia is not difficult to grow; with suitable water, fertilizer and light, it will grow lush flowers and leaves. But for certain reasons, many flower lovers' gloxinias show symptoms of wilting leaves, and they all want to know what to do when a gloxinia wilts. For this, the editor has summarized 4 causes and attached solutions; let's read on.

2. Causes of gloxinia wilting and solutions

1. The flower pot is too deep

As for the causes of gloxinia wilting, flower lovers should first consider the flower pot. It is understood that the gloxinia's root system is relatively shallow and is suitable for planting in a shallow pot. Once the pot is too deep, the soil's air permeability and water permeability will be very poor, which will affect the gloxinia's absorption of water and nutrients, ultimately leading to wilting.

Solution: If care has been fine and the pot is very deep, then everyone should repot in time, changing to a somewhat shallower pot, so that the soil's air permeability and water permeability will be better. Except

2. Too little watering

If it is a care problem, then it may be a watering mistake. Gloxinia flowers like a humid environment; usually you should observe the pot soil more and not forget to water. Because once you do not water, or water too little, the gloxinia's leaves will wilt due to lack of water.

Solution: Since it is caused by lack of water, everyone needs to replenish water in time, but do not water too much; an appropriate amount is enough. In addition, when the air is dry, frequently spray water around the plant; in summer when temperatures are high, water 1-2 times a day.

3. Insufficient fertilizing

Besides lack of water, insufficient nutrients are also one of the main causes of gloxinia wilting. The gloxinia is a plant with large leaves and brilliant flowers; to make it grow well, sufficient nutrients are indispensable. Once fertilizing is insufficient, causing the plant to lack nutrients, the leaves cannot absorb nutrients and will show wilting.

Solution: At this time, flower lovers can increase fertilizing and use more dilute fertilizer; especially during its growth period, it is best to apply dilute cake fertilizer water once about every 10 days.

4. Unsuitable temperature

Flower pot, water and nutrients are the main causes of gloxinia wilting. If these can be ruled out, then temperature is the next point everyone should consider. The gloxinia is not cold-tolerant; if the temperature is too low, it can easily be frostbitten, thus showing wilting.

Solution: Maintaining a suitable growing temperature is the best way to avoid gloxinia leaf wilting; generally, gloxinia leaves need moderate temperatures to survive. It is best to keep room temperature at 10-25°C; when the growing temperature is suitable, the gloxinia will recover quickly.

Overall, the gloxinia is not hard to grow. As long as everyone is a bit more careful and follows the requirements for care, it will grow very beautifully and wilting and similar problems will not appear at all. Of course, if problems arise, everyone need not worry; just solve them according to the methods above. That is all the editor has to introduce about gloxinia wilting, and I hope it can help everyone.

A complete guide to home flower gardening techniques and key points for growing flowers at home

With their gorgeous splendor, flowers decorate nature extraordinarily beautifully and give people enjoyment of beauty. Growing flowers can enrich and adjust people's cultural life, add fun, cultivate temperament, and improve health. It can also increase scientific knowledge, improve cultural and artistic literacy, and has many important economic values. Below let's take a look together at the complete guide to home flower gardening techniques!

"Three suitable" practices for growing flowers at home

1. It is suitable to grow flowers with strong abilities to absorb toxins: some flowers can absorb certain concentrations of toxic gases in the air, such as sulfur dioxide, nitrogen oxides, hydrogen fluoride, formaldehyde, hydrogen chloride, etc. Wintersweet can absorb mercury vapor; pomegranate plants can absorb lead vapor in the air; snapdragon, canna, morning glory, gladiolus, dianthus, etc. can, through their leaves, convert highly toxic sulfur dioxide via oxidation into non-toxic or low-toxicity sulfate compounds; narcissus, four-o'clock, chrysanthemum, saxifrage, etc. can convert nitrogen oxides into proteins in plant cells; spider plant, aloe, snake plant can absorb large amounts of indoor pollutants such as formaldehyde.

2. It is suitable to grow flowers that can secrete bactericides: bactericides secreted by flowers such as jasmine, lilac, honeysuckle, and morning glory can kill certain bacteria in the air, inhibit the occurrence of diphtheria, tuberculosis, dysentery pathogens and typhoid bacteria, and keep indoor air clean and hygienic.

3. It is suitable to grow flowers with "complementary" functions: most flowers mainly carry out photosynthesis during the day, absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen, and at night carry out respiration, absorbing oxygen and releasing carbon dioxide. Cacti are exactly the opposite: during the day they release carbon dioxide, and at night they absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen. Growing flowers with "complementary" functions in one room can not only let the two benefit each other, but also balance the indoor oxygen and carbon dioxide content and keep indoor air fresh.

"Three avoid" practices for growing flowers at home

1. Avoid growing too many flowers that give off strong fragrance and irritating odors: orchids, roses, Chinese roses, lilies, night-blooming cestrum, etc. can all give off rich aromas. With one pot in a room, fragrance fills the air, but if too many fragrant flowers are placed indoors and the fragrance is too strong, it will excite people's nerves; especially if people smell it for a long time in the bedroom, it can cause insomnia. The gases given off by poinsettia and lucky bamboo are unfavorable to people; the particles given off by tulips and hydrangea can cause skin allergies and itching after prolonged contact.

2. Avoid placing too many: at night most flowers release carbon dioxide and absorb oxygen, "competing for air" with people, and at night most living rooms are closed, with air not circulating enough with the outside. If too many flowers are placed indoors, it will reduce the indoor oxygen concentration at night and affect sleep quality, such as chest tightness and frequent nightmares.

3. Avoid placing toxic flowers indoors: for example, oleander is toxic in its stems, leaves and even flowers during spring, summer and autumn; the milky white sap it secretes contains oleandrin, and accidental ingestion can cause poisoning. The bulbs of narcissus contain lycorine toxin; if children accidentally eat them, it can cause symptoms such as vomiting, and the sap of the leaves and flowers can make skin red and swollen; if the sap accidentally gets into the eyes, it will harm the eyes. Too much contact with mimosa can easily cause sparse eyebrows and yellowing hair, and in severe cases cause hair loss.

"Six don'ts" for growing flowers at home

1. Carelessness: flowers, like people, are alive and need careful care. Many flower growers lack the due careful and diligent attitude toward these beautiful lives. First, they are mentally lazy and do not like to study flower-growing knowledge, willingly remaining laymen for a long time, and their management is not methodical. Second, they are physically lazy and unwilling to spend too much time and energy on flowers. After the flowers enter the home, they are left aside and neglected, enduring hunger and thirst for a long time, suffering from pests and diseases, so that even the best flowers will gradually wilt; therefore lazy people cannot grow flowers well.

2. Loving them too much: contrary to the above situation, some flower growers love flowers too much and their hands itch if they do not fiddle with them for a moment. Some water and fertilize irregularly, watering whenever they think of it, causing flowers to die from excessive waterlogging or fertilizing. Some casually move flower pots around, moving them to several places a day, making the flowers have to constantly adapt to the environment and disrupting normal growth patterns; over time, it would be strange if the flowers were not worn out to death.

3. Chasing fame and profit: some flower lovers believe that growing flowers means growing famous flowers, because famous flowers have high ornamental value and big market profits. Under the control of this mentality, they spare no expense and search everywhere to buy famous flowers and trees, but the result is often that due to lack of good care conditions and management skills, the flowers die soon after purchase. This not only mistreats precious flowers but also wastes money; this is a misconception. The correct approach should be to start with ordinary, lower-grade varieties, gradually explore the rules and techniques of growing flowers, and after reaching a certain technical level, gradually buy more precious varieties; only then is success more assured.

4. Not distinguishing good from bad: some flower growers like to be greedy for size and completeness, and no matter what variety it is, they bring it home when they see it. This not only makes management more difficult, but also brings some unsuitable flowers into the home, polluting the environment and harming health. For example, flowers with toxic sap can easily cause poisoning when people touch them. The smell of some flowers affects people's nervous system and can easily cause difficulty breathing or even allergic reactions. In short, growing flowers at home should not be greedy for size and completeness or fail to distinguish good from bad; you should choose varieties with smaller plant shape, beautiful appearance, and no harm to the human body.

5. Constantly changing: some flower growers are restless and have no theme in growing flowers; the flowers at home are changed like a revolving lantern. This is a great taboo in growing flowers. First, changing varieties too quickly and growing them for too short a time is not conducive to cultivating flowers and trees with graceful plant shape and high ornamental value. Second, trying every kind of flower only superficially is not conducive to improving flower-growing skills, and in the end one is still a flower novice. Therefore, only by choosing one or two kinds of flowers and focusing on studying and cultivating them can a flower grower gain something in their heart.

6. Not having new concepts: today new knowledge and new technologies in the flower-growing industry emerge endlessly, but most flower growers still stick to traditional care methods and are not good at using new technologies and new equipment in the use of flower containers, water and fertilizer management, seedling cultivation, etc., such as soilless cultivation, odorless flower fertilizers, and various flower containers. As a result, home flower growing is unhygienic, unattractive, not novel, and has relatively large side effects.

Spring care for home potted flowers

1. Propagating good seedlings: Chinese rose, geranium, pomegranate, winter jasmine, etc. can be propagated in spring by taking healthy branches for cuttings. Azaleas and jasmine prefer acidic soil; you can cut robust new branches 5-10 cm long, remove the lower leaves, and keep 3-4 top leaves for cuttings. For cuttings, black mountain soil, vermiculite or yellow sand can be used as the medium. Spray the cuttings moderately to maintain a certain humidity; generally after about 1 month they can take root. Orchids, agave and spider plants can be propagated in early spring by division or by runners respectively. Spring-sown herbaceous plants grown from seed, such as asparagus fern, five-color pepper, mimosa, impatiens, scarlet sage, morning glory, and marigold species, can be broadcast or sown in spots.

2. Repotting and changing soil: repotting and changing soil is a method of supplementing fertilizer for potted flowers in spring. Generally small pots are repotted once a year, and large pots once every 3-4 years; tall plants need larger pots. Some root systems that are too dense or have dead or rotten roots need appropriate pruning. After repotting, generally the first watering should soak through, then place it in a cool place, and afterward water when the pot soil is seen to be dry. Generally, after new roots grow, carry out normal watering and move it to a sunny place.

3. Pruning: pruning should be carried out according to different plants. Azaleas, winter jasmine, etc. should not be pruned excessively; for pomegranate, Chinese rose, etc., dead branches, damaged branches or excessively dense branches can all be cut off in early spring to promote lush flowers and leaves. Jasmine should have old leaves removed when repotting to encourage more new branches. Vines and climbing plants such as Boston ivy, banks rose, wisteria, and rose can be pruned so that the leaf surface receives as much sunlight as possible and grows vigorously.

Note: In early spring, potted flowers should not be moved outdoors too early, so as to avoid cold air invasion and frost damage. Watering can increase as the temperature rises, and keep dryness and moisture balanced.

Summer care for home potted flowers

1. Timely watering: in summer flowers have lush branches and leaves and consume a lot of water, so in summer water the flowers sufficiently in the morning and evening every day.

2. Build shading racks: for all potted flowers, as soon as summer comes, a rack must be built and reed curtains placed on it for shade, so that they safely pass through the severe summer heat.

3. Pay attention to ventilation: for indoor flowers, when the temperature exceeds 30°C, pay attention to ventilation, open the windows, and let fresh air flow into the room to prevent heatstroke and lower the temperature.

4. Moisturize and cool: in summer, some straw can be placed over the pot soil so that sunlight does not directly shine on the pot soil, thereby lowering the pot soil temperature and also preventing the pot soil moisture from evaporating too quickly. You can also use a sprayer to wet the flower leaves and at the same time wet the surroundings to lower the temperature and increase humidity, which is very beneficial to some flowers that like coolness.

Autumn care for home potted flowers

1. Add water and fertilizer management: after the Beginning of Autumn, the weather gradually turns cooler. For some foliage flowers such as asparagus fern, spider plant, and sago palm, generally apply dilute liquid fertilizer once every half month to keep the leaves green and improve cold resistance. For chrysanthemum, camellia, azalea, etc. that bloom once a year, timely apply additional liquid fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus fertilizer to ensure sufficient nutrients and make them bloom more and larger. For Chinese rose, milan, jasmine, etc. that bloom multiple times a year, supply sufficient fertilizer and water so they bloom continuously. For some fruit-viewing flowers, such as kumquat, finger citron, and fruiting pomegranate, apply 1-2 times dilute liquid fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus fertilizer.

2. Timely autumn sowing: in autumn, timely harvest mature flower and tree seeds, and timely sow tulips, gloxinias, snapdragons, etc.; especially seeds that easily lose germination ability should be sown in time in autumn, and combined with pruning, take cuttings of flowers and trees. For example, taking cuttings of Chinese rose, rose, and rose species has a relatively high survival rate.

Winter care for home potted flowers

1. Overwintering of deciduous woody flowers: most deciduous woody flowers originate from temperate regions. Common ones include pomegranate, honeysuckle, Chinese rose, ornamental peach, and winter jasmine; they are generally dormant in winter, so room temperature can be controlled at about 5°C. If there is a balcony or small courtyard, cold-hardy potted Chinese rose, ornamental peach, pomegranate, honeysuckle, etc. can be placed together in a wind-sheltered spot on the balcony or in a corner of the courtyard, wrapped and covered with plastic film, and they can overwinter safely.

2. Overwintering of evergreen woody flowers: such as oleander, kumquat, osmanthus, etc., which are in semi-dormancy; the temperature is generally controlled above 0°C, and they can safely pass the severe winter. For milan, jasmine, hibiscus, and gardenia, they should be placed in places with sufficient sunlight. Indoor temperature should be kept at about 15°C; if the temperature is too low, it will cause the flowers to die.

3. Overwintering of annual and biennial herbaceous flowers: such as fairy primrose, coleus, and calceolaria; keeping room temperature between 5-15°C allows normal growth. For perennial herbaceous flowers such as asparagus fern, impatiens, geranium, and wax begonia, keeping sufficient sunlight and room temperature 10-20°C allows them to grow well. For herbaceous flowers dormant in winter such as clivia and oncidium, maintaining room temperature at about 5°C and giving an appropriate amount of light is enough; light each day should not exceed 8-10 hours, and at the same time strengthen fertilizer and water management; after two months they can bloom.

What special points are there about water for watering flowers?

1. Water selection: the best water for watering flowers is neutral or slightly acidic river water, pond water, or rainwater. Rainwater is best for watering flowers because rainwater contains more natural minerals. Next is river water and pond water; especially greenish pond water is rich in nutrients and is a relatively ideal water for watering flowers. In cities, tap water is mostly used for watering flowers, but tap water contains relatively high amounts of bleaching powder and chemicals, so when using it to water flowers it should be stored for one or two days first. In addition, if a few slices of vitamin C are put into tap water, the chlorine in the water can be eliminated; generally add one slice per basin of water, let it sit for half a day, and then it can be used to water flowers.

2. Temperature control: flower proverbs say: "When southern flowers move north, add alum when watering flowers", "For northern homes growing southern flowers, fish tank water is better for watering", "Fish water is fat and rice water is strong; for potted flowers they are most suitable". Whether in severe winter or midsummer, do not water flowers with cold water. When the temperature is below 10°C, you can appropriately add some hot water to the water, try to make the water temperature close to the soil temperature, and create a microclimate suitable for flower growth.

How to judge whether potted flowers lack water?

1. Tapping method: gently tap the upper-middle wall of the flower pot with the knuckle of your finger. If it makes a relatively crisp sound, it indicates the pot soil is already dry and needs immediate watering. If it makes a dull, muddy sound, it indicates the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped.

2. Visual method: observe with your eyes whether the color of the pot soil surface has changed. If the color becomes lighter or appears light grayish-white, it indicates the pot soil is already dry and needs watering. If the color becomes darker or appears dark brown, it indicates the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped.

3. Finger test method: gently insert a finger about 2 cm deep into the pot soil and feel the soil. If it feels dry or rough and hard, it indicates the pot soil is already dry and needs immediate watering. If it feels slightly moist, fine and soft, it indicates the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped.

4. Pinching and twisting method: pinch the pot soil with your fingers. If the soil becomes powdery, it indicates the pot soil is already dry and should be watered immediately. If the soil forms flakes or granules, it indicates the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped. The above methods are all based on experience; they can only tell people the approximate condition of whether the pot soil is dry or wet. If you need to know the degree of dryness or wetness of the pot soil accurately, you can buy a soil moisture meter, insert it into the soil, and see the words "dry" or "moist" appear on the scale, so you can know exactly when to water.

Homemade fertilizers for home potted flowers

1. Soaked liquid fertilizer: use a small vat (or small jar), put in waste vegetable leaves, melon and fruit peels, chicken and fish offal, fish scales, waste bones, eggshells, and moldy foods (peanuts, sunflower seeds, beans, bean powder), etc., add water and sprinkle a little trichlorfon, then cover tightly. After high-temperature fermentation and decomposition, it can be used. When using, take the clear liquid on top, add water to dilute it, and then try it. The above waste can also be mixed with some old potting soil, add some water, put into a large plastic bag, tie it tightly, leave it for a period of time, and use after fermentation.

2. Waste composting: choose a suitable place and dig a soil pit 60-80 cm deep, line it with 10 cm of furnace ash, put rotten vegetable leaves, poultry and livestock viscera, fish scales, chicken and duck manure, eggshells, meat waste and broken bones, etc. into the pit, sprinkle some insecticide, cover with a layer of garden soil about 10 cm thick, and keep the pit moist to promote fertilizer decomposition. It is best to compost in autumn and winter; after spring warming and decomposition with no foul odor, it can be mixed into potting soil as base fertilizer. It can also be sifted while wet through a 4 mm sieve and rubbed into granules; the fine part is used as topdressing and the coarse part as base fertilizer. When composting, you can add some orange peel or diluted rice vinegar to reduce the odor.

Clever fertilizing for home flower growing

1. Timely fertilizing: so-called timely fertilizing means applying fertilizer when flowers need it. When flower leaves are found to become lighter or yellow and plant growth is thin and weak, that is the most suitable period for fertilizing. In addition, when flower seedlings sprout leaves and branches unfold leaves, topdressing should be applied to meet the seedlings' demand for fertilizer during rapid growth. Different growth stages of flowers also have different fertilizer needs. The type and amount of fertilizer applied also differ. For example, applying more nitrogen fertilizer at the seedling stage can promote seedling growth; applying phosphorus fertilizer at the bud stage can promote larger, more vivid flowers and a longer flowering period.

2. Appropriate amount of fertilizing: for potted flowers, fertilizing should achieve "eat small meals often", that is, fertilize many times, with a small amount each time. Generally apply dilute fertilizer water once every 7-10 days, and once every 15-20 days after the "Beginning of Autumn". As flowers and trees gradually grow, the fertilization concentration gradually increases; for example, the application concentration of urea gradually increases from 0.2% in the early period to 1.0%, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer increases from 1.0% to 3.0-4.0%.

3. Seasonal fertilizing: in spring and summer flowers grow quickly and vigorously, so an appropriate amount of more fertilizer can be applied. After autumn begins, the temperature gradually decreases and flower growth weakens, so less fertilizer should be applied. From late August to early September, fertilizing should stop to prevent a second growth peak, otherwise it is easy to make flower tissue cells tender and cause difficulty in overwintering. For overwintering flowers, fertilizing should stop in winter when they are dormant.

4. Temperature mastery: potted flowers should not be fertilized around noon at high temperatures or on rainy days; fertilizing at this time easily damages roots, so it is best to fertilize in the evening. After autumn and in winter when temperatures are low, flowers grow slowly and generally are not fertilized. In summer when temperatures are high, flowers grow vigorously and should be fertilized more; when the temperature is high, the topdressing concentration should be low and the amount small, and dilute fertilizer water should be used for topdressing more times.

5. Mixed application of medicine and fertilizer: if pests or diseases occur during fertilizing, an appropriate amount of pesticide can be added to the fertilizer liquid, which can play the dual role of fertilizing and preventing pests and diseases.

Why do home-grown flowers die?

1. Too much fertilizing: some people love flowers eagerly and, considering that potted flowers consume a lot of nutrients during the flowering period, apply large amounts of chemical fertilizer, causing excessive concentration; in mild cases it affects root hairs' absorption of water, and in severe cases it causes the plant to die.

2. Too much unmatured organic fertilizer applied: because organic fertilizer has a large amount of microbial activity when decomposing in the soil, causing soil oxygen deficiency, and the roots suffocate and die. On the other hand, organic fertilizer fermentation produces substances such as alcohol and lactic acid that are toxic to the root system, and fermentation releases a large amount of heat, raising the temperature and causing "root burning".

3. No place for growing flowers: people often put potted flowers in closed balconies facing east or west, so the radiant heat of the sun makes the temperature inside the balcony rise sharply, forming a hot, dry environment. High temperature, dryness, and lack of ventilation also make red spider mite damage likely, accelerating flower death.

4. Overwintered flowers suddenly taken out of the room: leaves grown by flowers overwintering indoors belong to semi-shade leaves or shade leaves. If suddenly taken outdoors in early spring, shade leaves cannot adapt; tender leaves and tender buds are easily sunburned, and combined with the large temperature difference between indoors and outdoors, it easily causes fatal damage to flowers.

5. Lack of sunlight: some people place flowers on indoor tables for convenience of appreciation, far from sunlight, causing their photosynthesis to be inhibited; the organic nutrients in the flower can only be consumed and cannot be replenished in time, reducing the flowers' resistance and causing the plant to weaken and die. Watering too much and too frequently is also a cause of plant death.

The strongest all-purpose flower calendar, a must-have for flower growers!!

It is now November, so let's first introduce the November flower calendar.

November flower calendar

◎Weather characteristics: November has the Beginning of Winter and Light Snow. Northern regions generally experience severe frost, with ice forming in the morning and evening; southern regions also occasionally suffer cold wave invasions, with low temperatures and frost.

◎This month's flower work should, according to the habits of various flowers and local climatic conditions, adapt to local conditions and do a good job in preventing freezing and wind drying. Open-ground overwintering perennial flowers such as peony, hosta, iris, daylily, stonecrop (eight treasures), black-eyed Susan, hollyhock, lotus, tree peony, etc., apply organic fertilizer once and water thoroughly with freezing water, and they can overwinter safely. In high, cold, windy and dry places, it is suitable to cover with horse manure or firewood and grass for protection. Autumn-sown and spring-blooming annual and biennial flowers such as pot marigold, stock, pansy, snapdragon, daisy, phlox, ornamental kale, etc., in the north need temporary planting in sunny beds, and in the south need protected overwintering. They can also be grown in greenhouses as winter and early spring cut flowers or potted flowers.

◎Open-ground woody flowers such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, and flowering shrubs: cut off old, weak, diseased and disabled branches. In cold regions do not carry out heavy pruning; wait until next spring for shaping. Bank soil along the base of flowers and trees for protection and water enough freezing water. For tree peony, before banking soil, water appropriately according to soil moisture; it must not be too wet. Newly planted seedlings can be protected by covering with large flower pots, and in deep winter cover the pot holes again. Potted plum and ornamental peach enter the greenhouse in the middle of the month for forcing, preparing flowers for New Year's Day and Spring Festival. Wintersweet is placed in a cold room to bloom naturally. Potted deciduous woody flowers can, according to local climate, be placed in cold rooms or cold cellars for overwintering protection; before entering the room or cellar, heavy pruning can be done. Cut Chinese rose branches can be propagated by cuttings in sunny beds or low-temperature rooms.

◎Greenhouse flowers should, according to the different temperature needs and habits of different flowers, be placed separately in rooms of high, medium, and low temperature. Appropriate temperatures must also be adjusted according to growth or dormancy. Generally, in mixed greenhouses, the habits of different flowers also need to be considered, and they should be placed in positions appropriate in distance from heat sources and strength of light.

◎Both north and south are suitable for turning and preparing flower-growing beds and applying organic fertilizer. Repair and maintain the flower-growing site, clear weeds and fallen leaves, and prevent pests and diseases from lurking.

◎In the greenhouse, cineraria, primrose, sweet pea, calceolaria, etc. are in the seedling stage; pay attention to water control, loosening soil, ventilation, and a small amount of fertilizing. Clivia, cyclamen, wax begonia, geranium, etc. are in the vigorous growth stage; pay attention to topdressing and appropriate watering.

◎This month's chrysanthemum exhibitions in north and south are a suitable period for introducing buds and taking cuttings.

December flower calendar

◎Weather characteristics: controlled by cold air. The weather is cold and dry. Sudden cold and frost often occur.

◎Do a good job in pollinating clivia (late December to early March).

◎Narcissus carving and water culture (the carving date depends on the number of days needed from carving to flowering; crab-claw narcissus takes about 45 days to bloom in water culture, and pen-rack narcissus takes about 60 days to bloom in water culture).

◎Chinese rose shaping and pruning: from the base upward keep 2-3 buds, and cut off the parts above.

◎For shaped tree stump bonsai, remove the metal wire that has sunk into the bark.

◎Winter pruning is carried out on tree stump bonsai such as elm and plum yew.

January flower calendar

◎Weather characteristics: continuously invaded by relatively strong cold waves; this is the period of the year with the lowest temperatures. The climate is cold and dry.

◎Blooming: spring plum, camellia, narcissus, primrose, daisy, daphne, pot marigold, cold orchid, spring orchid, and cicada orchid bloom one after another.

◎Cuttings: pomegranate, Chinese snowball, dwarf cherry, geranium, Chinese rose, rose, banks rose, azalea, cherry blossom, peach blossom, ten sisters rose, carnation, etc.

◎Division: wintersweet, magnolia, purple magnolia, banks rose, wisteria, azalea, etc., and bulb flowers such as narcissus and hyacinth.

◎Layering: Chinese rose, rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, banks rose, kerria, etc.

◎Adjust and plant deciduous flowers and trees; plant or pot spring-blooming flowers: dianthus, pansy, snapdragon, wallflower, silene, cornflower, delphinium, pot marigold, daisy, cineraria, phlox, etc.

◎Strengthen greenhouse management, pay attention to watering and ventilation. Greenhouse forcing: azalea, magnolia, Chaenomeles speciosa, poinsettia, etc.

◎Flowerbed replacement: daisy, pot marigold, etc. For dormant flowers, turn the soil and bank it up, apply base fertilizer and protect against cold. Trim hedges, and prune diseased and dead branches of flowering shrubs.

◎Other: 1. Use methods such as heating and putting on plastic bags to do a good job in cold protection for flowers.

2. For flowers kept warm indoors, the amount of watering should be controlled so that the pot soil remains dry. 3. For potted flowers overwintering in the open, water thoroughly during cold wave invasions to prevent frost damage. 4. Do a good job in turning the soil in flower planting areas and apply enough base fertilizer. 5. Make and shape tree stump bonsai.

February flower calendar

◎Weather characteristics: temperatures rise slowly, but cold waves still often invade; the weather is gloomy, cold and rainy.

◎Continue to do a good job in cold protection for flowers.

◎Dig up tree stumps of deciduous trees and coniferous trees in the wild.

◎Repot azalea, elm, plum yew, bamboo palm, Chinese rose, kumquat, etc.

◎Repot deciduous tree stump bonsai.

◎Five-needle pine and Japanese black pine are propagated by side grafting (late February to early March).

March flower calendar

◎Weather characteristics: March coincides with Awakening of Insects and Spring Equinox; the highest temperature can reach 27-28°C, and the lowest is minus 4-5°C. This is exactly when cold and warmth alternate. The temperature gradually becomes warmer, but is sometimes warm and sometimes cold, with a lot of rainy weather.

◎Narcissus, spring orchid, daphne, plum blossom, Christmas cactus, rabbit flower, cineraria, primrose, etc. are in full bloom, and a certain amount of light and temperature should be maintained. When daytime temperatures are relatively high, windows can be opened for ventilation so indoor air circulates; the pot soil should not be too dry or too wet, and should remain moist.

◎Camellia is already in full bloom. Note that room temperature should not be too high, sunshine duration should not be too long, indoor air should circulate, and the pot soil should not be too dry or too wet; remove excess flower buds and control the plant to bloom in batches.

◎Prepare for potted flowers to leave the room. When temperatures rise, open windows indoors to receive outdoor sunlight and air, so they gradually adapt to the environment and prepare to leave the room in April.

◎For amaryllis, epiphyllum, clivia, and kumquat, etc., through pruning and removing dead branches and leaves, combined with additional application of nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers, promote their growth, bud development and flowering.

◎Continue making tree stump bonsai. And do a good job in repotting evergreen broadleaf tree stump bonsai.

◎Repot flowers such as azalea, winter jasmine, daphne, and spider plant.

◎Potting up Chinese roses (Rosa chinensis), dividing lotus grown in tubs.

April Flower Calendar

◎Weather characteristics: April brings Qingming and Guyu; the warm air masses grow stronger, the weather is mild with more rain, and spring begins - a time that coincides with the busy solar term for flowers. Different climate regions need to adapt to local conditions and timing.

◎Herbaceous flowers for summer and autumn flower beds, such as dahlia (small-flowered dahlia), scarlet sage, zinnia, and China aster, are sown and cultivated in the open ground when the soil temperature is 10-18°C. For herbaceous flowers sown in autumn last year, such as pot marigold, pansy, and snapdragon, strengthen water and fertilizer management after Qingming, and transplant them to flower beds after Guyu.

◎Various perennial flowers, such as canna, daylily, gladiolus, dahlia, and Calathea, can be divided and planted at this time. Aquatic flowers, such as potted lotus and water lily, can be moved outdoors after Qingming in the north. Deciduous woody potted flowers, such as pomegranate and crape myrtle, should be moved outdoors before budding for pruning and repotting.

◎For southern flowers grown in the north, such as Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, and Aglaia, because northern spring winds are dry and temperatures fluctuate greatly, wait until after Guyu when the temperature is relatively stable before moving them outdoors.

◎Annual herbaceous flowers and flowers such as clivia, pomegranate, and asparagus fern are propagated by sowing.

◎Flowers such as Cyperus alternifolius, Rhapis excelsa, Bambusa multiplex, spider plant, hosta, and clivia are propagated by division.

◎Warmth-loving flowers such as Aglaia, jasmine, epiphyllum, spider plant, Monstera deliciosa, and Strelitzia are potted up or repotted.

◎Bonsai trees such as five-needle pine, black pine, and Japanese white pine have their buds pinched to keep the branches and leaves neat.

May Flower Calendar

◎Weather characteristics: May brings Lixia and Xiaoman; the average solar-term temperature in the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River is 20°C, the temperature difference between north and south is close, with frequent continuous spring rain and little sunshine.

◎Southern flowers overwintered indoors, such as osmanthus, rhododendron, camellia, gardenia, and banana shrub, can be moved outdoors. Jasmine, Aglaia, Michelia, orange jessamine, epiphyllum, croton, hibiscus, and citrus are best moved outdoors on a semi-cloudy day when the nighttime temperature is stable at 15°C. After being moved outdoors, some flowers and trees such as rhododendron, camellia, gardenia, orchids, and fern foliage plants need to be placed under shade frames, and water should be sprayed on the ground frequently to keep the microclimate fresh and humid.

◎Bulbous flowers such as tuberose, gladiolus, Crocosmia, zephyr lily, and dahlia are planted when the soil temperature is above 15°C. Summer-dormant bulbous flowers such as tulip, hyacinth, and freesia should be carefully managed so they do not dry out too early; extend their growth period as much as possible so the new bulbs grow robustly, and dig them out around the end of the month to dry and store. For cyclamen, gloxinia, and calla lily, after the seeds mature, remove old residual leaves, clean the surface of the pot soil, place in a cool, ventilated, rain-sheltered spot, stop fertilizer and reduce water, and do a good job of dormancy-period care.

◎For autumn and National Day flowers, large China aster, cockscomb, large marigold, false dragonhead, coralberry, petunia, and amaranth are sown directly in the open ground. Scarlet sage, coleus, and periwinkle, which are sown in indoor pots or raised in cold frames, are divided and planted outdoors this month. Large shaped early chrysanthemums are potted up and established.

◎When the day-night temperature difference in May is 10°C, powdery mildew breaks out on a large scale, mainly harming Chinese roses and some flowers under shade frames; use triadimefon or chlorothalonil promptly for control. For aphids and scale insects, use 40% omethoate 800-1500 times dilution. Pay attention to clearing weeds from flower pots and cultivation sites.

◎After camellia and rhododendron flowers fade, remove the residual flowers and apply a post-bloom fertilizer mainly of nitrogen fertilizer.

◎Place semi-shade-loving and shade-loving flowers under shade frames or large trees.

◎Spray foliage plants with water 2-3 times a day (March-September) to increase air humidity.

June Flower Calendar

◎Weather characteristics: June brings Mangzhong and Xiazhi; by then it is early summer, the temperature rises, the plum rain season arrives, it is hot and humid with much rain, the weather is changeable, and humidity is relatively high.

◎For most famous winter and spring flowers such as cyclamen, cineraria, primrose, Pulsatilla, corn poppy, and amaryllis, the seeds mature one after another and should be harvested in time and stored in a cool, ventilated, dry place.

◎Many summer and autumn flowers begin to grow vigorously, such as Chinese hibiscus, pomegranate, jasmine, Aglaia, Michelia, and orange jessamine; from this time they should be given "water twice a day and fertilizer once every ten days." Prevent and control pests and diseases, carry out comprehensive care and management, and pay attention to fruit ornamental types such as citron, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, and fig: fertilizer should be well rotted, watering should be steady, and it should not be suddenly increased or decreased, keeping the environment humid to prevent fruit drop. For potted plum blossom, wintersweet, and ornamental peach, water must be controlled this month, and the growing tips should be pinched off or the growth points twisted off to promote flower bud differentiation, prevent excessive growth of new shoots, and avoid overly long flowering branches that are not good for viewing. For shade-loving flowers such as orchids, camellia, and begonia, pay attention to proper shading and keep the environment humid.

◎For summer-dormant bulbous flowers such as freesia, hyacinth, and tulip, when stems and leaves turn yellow and dry, dig them out promptly, dry them for one or two days, and store in a cool, dry, ventilated place.

◎Aquatic flowers such as potted lotus, water willow, and water lily grow rapidly as the temperature rises; phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied in time, and by the end of the month the flowers bloom all at once. For National Day dahlias, repot and establish them; early chrysanthemums are potted up and established with the main branches selected. Late chrysanthemums have their tips pinched at the beginning of the month and the sprouts renewed to refresh the plants. This month most herbaceous flowers grow robustly, and woody flower branches are half-mature; temperature and humidity conditions are suitable, so it is a good time for cuttings propagation. For cactus and succulent plants, grafting and division can be done before the hot rainy season.

July Flower Calendar

◎Weather characteristics: July brings Xiaoshu and Dashu, followed by the first and middle fu periods; north and south continue to have high temperatures and much rain, the weather is hot, and this is the period of the highest temperatures of the year. There are often sustained high-temperature weather and summer drought, with strong sunshine.

◎All kinds of flowers must be managed carefully and meticulously. In the south, pay attention to drainage and drought prevention; in the north, especially deal with continuous overcast and rainy days, always be alert to and treat pest and disease infection, and safely pass through the severe heat and high humidity period.

◎Check the care site and promptly eliminate hidden dangers of waterlogging. Shade frames and curtain equipment should be kept moderately dense and effective. Production greenhouses and facilities storing dormant flowers need proper shading, with front, rear, and top windows all opened for ventilation and heat dissipation.

◎National Day dwarf sunflowers and dwarf China asters are sown in the middle of the month, and early chrysanthemums receive their last pinching and final heading in the first ten days. For scarlet sage, dahlia, canna, cockscomb, and other herbaceous flowers, stop using organic liquid fertilizer this month. Pay attention to high temperature and drought, water plus spray water, and lay pots on their sides during continuous overcast and rainy days. Specimen chrysanthemums begin to be successively potted into establishment pots in the last ten days. For desk chrysanthemums, cutting propagation should be carried out no later than the end of the month.

◎For southern flowers grown in the north, such as Michelia and Aglaia, appropriate shaping and pruning can be done. In midsummer they grow vigorously and are easy to rejuvenate quickly. For plum blossom, ornamental peach, camellia, and banana shrub, pay attention to reducing water to prevent excessive growth, and promote flower bud differentiation so there will be more flowers in winter and spring.

◎This month the temperature is high and humidity is great, suitable for softwood cuttings propagation of many kinds of herbaceous flowers, such as Chinese rose, jasmine, hibiscus, camellia, and night jasmine. The cutting medium should be coarse, loose, and well drained for a high survival rate.

◎Midsummer in July is a period of frequent pests and diseases, so one must always be vigilant, focus on prevention, detect early, and treat thoroughly. For seedling wilt disease and various leaf spot diseases of larger plants, use triadimefon sprayed on leaf surfaces, pot soil, and the ground for control. For aphids and common leaf-eating pests, use deltamethrin and omethoate sprays for control. Two or more pests and diseases can be treated with mixed pesticides. However, the concentration must be strictly controlled according to the instructions, and spraying should be chosen in the morning or evening to prevent phytotoxicity from midday high temperatures.

August Flower Calendar

◎Weather characteristics: The beginning of this month is Liqiu, and the weather turns cooler, but there are often high-temperature weather and summer drought, so attention is still needed for drought resistance, waterlogging prevention, insect control, and disease prevention.

◎In the last ten days comes Chushu; the temperature drops sharply and it becomes cooler day by day, and autumn flowers begin to grow vigorously. Scarlet sage, cockscomb, China aster, early chrysanthemums, various strains of dahlia, "alpine snow," "amaranth"... should be shaped and headed separately; Chinese roses are pruned in the middle ten days to maintain tree vigor and concentrate nutrients in the flowering branches. As the temperature drops, gradually increase topdressing and watering to force flowers and strengthen fruits for National Day viewing.

◎This month is relatively busy for flower work, and many kinds of flowers need careful cultivation and management. Late chrysanthemums receive their last pinching in the first days of the first ten days; if later, the flowers will be uneven. Amaryllis begins to form flower buds at this time; topdressing in time achieves twice the result with half the effort. For gladiolus and tuberose, immediately topdress after cutting flowers to nourish the bulbs, ensuring that next year's flower stems are straight and the flowers are even and dense. For autumn and winter fruit ornamental flowers, it is appropriate to increase phosphorus fertilizer to keep the leaves bright and the fruits colorful and glossy. Osmanthus is watered with fully rotted organic fertilizer after the middle ten days, continuing once a week until before flowering in mid-September. For potted camellia, according to the size and strength of the plant, keep one or two robust and well-formed flower buds per branch as appropriate, and thin out the excess one by one. For bougainvillea, coil the branches, and for poinsettia, bend and shape them; it is best to reduce water at noon and operate when the branches are slightly wilted and soft, so as to avoid breaking and injury. For mature clivia, repot and change soil only after the weather is cool and stable.

◎The summer-dormant flower cyclamen begins to stir with autumn coolness and should be repotted and given new soil. Calla lily is divided and planted. Oxalis types are potted in the middle ten days, and freesia in the last ten days. For autumn-sown herbaceous flowers that bloom the following spring: pansy, pot marigold, dianthus, moneywort, stock, etc., in northern regions sow successively from the beginning to the end of the month according to local and cold-protection conditions.

◎For southern flowers grown in the north, such as Michelia, jasmine, Aglaia, and hibiscus, flowering gradually stops this month, but attention is still needed to water and fertilizer, moderately maintaining vigor. Potted lotus has stopped flowering and is setting lotus roots; pay attention to stopping fertilizer and reducing water, but light still cannot be cut off, so that next year the leaves will be lush and the flowers abundant.

September Flower Calendar

◎Weather characteristics: September brings Bailu and Qiufen; the weather is clear and crisp with much sunshine, cold air begins to become active, the temperature drops, there are many rainy days, and autumn begins.

◎In this period all kinds of flowers grow and develop vigorously, so sprinkler irrigation should be frequent and fertilizing should be refined. Pay attention to dry autumn drought; as the temperature drops, gradually increase the amount of fertilizer, which is quite beneficial to autumn flowers, winter flowers, and spring flowers. At the same time, do not relax management of flowers under shade frames; in the vast northern regions, guard against clear-sky strong sun and sudden strong winds.

◎For National Day scarlet sage, according to the strength of growth, remove the colored flower spikes from September 1 to 5, so that flowering at the festival will be neat, full, and abundant. For early chrysanthemums with buds appearing too early, a trace amount of nitrogen fertilizer can be topdressed and watering increased; for those too late, apply appropriate phosphorus and potassium fertilizer and reduce water moderately to ensure all the National Day flowers bloom together. For dahlias that bud and show color in early September, National Day will coincide with the best flowering period. For those too early, remove the main bud and let the side buds develop; for those too late, reduce water and topdress phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to force flowering. Other herbaceous flowers for the festival can also use the same method to hasten or delay the flowering period. For northern potted osmanthus that must bloom on National Day, move them into the greenhouse in early September; keeping the nighttime temperature above 16°C can delay the flowering period, and moving them outdoors on the 25th to cool naturally will allow them to bloom fully at the festival.

◎For all kinds of autumn-sown herbaceous flowers, those sown in August in northern regions are thinned and transplanted in the middle ten days of this month; in southern regions they can be sown at the appropriate time. Winter and spring greenhouse potted flowers such as cyclamen, cineraria, and Pulsatilla are sown this month; geraniums and fuchsia begin cutting propagation; plum blossom and ornamental peach are bud-grafted from the beginning to the end of this month, from north to south at the appropriate time.

◎For southern flowers grown in the north, such as Michelia, hibiscus, jasmine, and Aglaia, gradually move them to wind-sheltered, sunny places to prevent early frost and wind drought. For tropical and subtropical origin flowers such as croton, and for cactus plants such as crab claw orchid grafted onto triangular stem rootstock, move them indoors for care in the middle ten days to prevent cold wave attacks.

◎All shaped artistic chrysanthemums enter the stage of comprehensive management. As the temperature drops and sunshine gradually shortens, increase water and fertilizer, and by the last ten days all will have buds. For large dahlias and large cascade chrysanthemums, in the last ten days select first-generation basal shoots for cutting propagation to prepare for the next year.

October Flower Calendar

◎Weather characteristics: October brings Hanlu and Shuangjiang; the weather turns cool and gradually cold. Cold air strengthens, the weather becomes colder, there are many clear autumn days and continuous sunny days, and autumn cold and early frost begin to appear.

◎Greenhouse flowers should be moved indoors before the middle ten days. All kinds of flowers native to the tropics begin to receive heating and insulation for cold protection; although flowers native to the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River are relatively cold-tolerant, they cannot withstand the sharp winds and dry weather of the north, so they also need to be moved indoors first to prevent wind and dryness; as the temperature fluctuates downward, pay attention to opening and closing doors and windows, maintaining a suitable medium or low temperature. Only when the temperature steadily drops to the minimum required by the flowers should heating and insulation for cold protection begin. At the turn of autumn and winter, all kinds of greenhouse flowers should, according to weather conditions, adapt as circumstances require and pass the indoor-moving stage well. In southern regions, late autumn day-night temperature differences increase, and all kinds of winter and spring flowers enter the stage of comprehensive management and care, with timely watering, fertilizing, and shaping, and appropriate cold protection according to climate changes.

◎From the beginning to the end of the month, from north to south, all kinds of spring-blooming perennial flowers such as hosta, iris, hollyhock, daylily, and peony are propagated by root division and transplanted; tree peony is divided, grafted using peony roots as rootstock, and propagated by sowing, and will grow vigorously next spring. For winter and spring blooming bulbous flowers such as tulip and hyacinth, in high-cold regions they are planted in the ground and protected for overwintering. Freesia and various colored oxalis bulbs are potted, and moved indoors for care at the end of the month.

◎For all kinds of spring and summer blooming flowers, when seeds mature, harvest them in time; select fine seeds, keep them pure, dry them in the sun, and clean them. For open-ground bulbous flowers such as tuberose, canna, gladiolus, and dahlia, when frost is seen, avoid freezing, dig them out in time, remove the soil thoroughly, dry them for one or two days, then move them indoors for storage. For potted dahlia, stop watering when frost is seen, and store in the original pot indoors to avoid overwintering damage. For potted amaryllis, cut off all leaves 3 cm above the bulb, stop watering, and store in a low-temperature room. If placed in a greenhouse for care 40-50 days before Spring Festival, it will bloom. Amaryllis sown seedlings are placed directly in a medium-temperature greenhouse for care and continue to grow.

◎In the north, autumn-sown herbaceous flowers such as stock, pansy, phlox, pot marigold, and snapdragon need to be moved into cold frames (sun beds) for protected overwintering. For large chrysanthemums cultivated to bear hundreds of flowers in one year and large cascade chrysanthemums over three meters, select first-generation shoots in early January for raising seedlings, and move them into a medium-temperature greenhouse in the middle ten days for normal care. For all kinds of open-ground overwintering flowers, water them thoroughly with freezing water in the last ten days; in high-cold regions they need protected overwintering.