How to plant calla lilies? Master these planting techniques for a survival rate as high as 95%

There are many propagation methods for the calla lily plant, including five methods: sowing, cuttings, division, the bulb method and tissue culture. Of these, sowing propagation is one of the more commonly used, but there are many points to pay attention to if you want to plant successfully. On how to plant calla lilies? What are the planting techniques for calla lilies? Let's take a look together below.

I. How to plant calla lilies

When it comes to how to plant calla lilies, there are actually many points to pay attention to, such as the selection and disinfection of the substrate, the sprouting of the seeds, and the planting method. However, as long as we operate properly, the survival rate is still very high. After all, this method has been tested by countless people and has accumulated a great deal of experience. As for the specific planting techniques, they are described in detail below. Let's take a look.

II. Planting techniques for calla lilies

1. Substrate selection: good drainage is required

Before planting calla lilies, we must first choose the substrate. This is the step that lays the foundation, so we must choose the most suitable one. Generally, it is best to choose loose, fertile humus soil as the substrate. This kind of soil has relatively good drainage and air permeability, allows the plant to absorb nutrients better, and is not prone to waterlogging.

2. Substrate disinfection: high-temperature disinfection

After choosing the substrate, we cannot plant the calla lilies right away. The substrate also needs to be disinfected to prevent pests and diseases in it from infecting the calla lilies. For disinfection, we can choose to break it up and spread it flat under the blazing sun, or put it in a pot and stir-fry it over a fire. In this way, if there are pests in the soil, they will also be killed.

3. Seed sprouting: soak in warm water

Harvested calla lily seeds are not suitable for direct sowing. Before sowing, it is best to soak them in warm water for 1-2 days. Once the seeds begin to absorb water and swell, we can take them out and plant them. This can play a role in sprouting the seeds and allow them to germinate faster.

4. Planting method: cover with 1cm of soil

When planting calla lilies, we should first apply an appropriate amount of base fertilizer into the soil, then evenly scatter the seeds on the soil surface. After scattering, cover them with 1 cm of soil, and then water. When watering, it is best to use the immersion method: place the flower pot halfway into water and let the water slowly soak up. Because calla lily seeds are relatively small, direct watering can easily wash them away.

5. Follow-up management: pay attention to daily care

After successfully planting calla lilies, we can carry out follow-up care. There are also many points to pay attention to in terms of care, such as watering and fertilizing, all of which require attention. If you do not know how to care for them, you can refer to the article on calla lily cultivation methods, which contains detailed care instructions.

How do calla lilies propagate? Calla lily propagation methods / mainly sowing and cuttings

Calla lilies are a relatively common flowering plant in people's lives, with high ornamental value, and many people cultivate them in various places. As more people cultivate them, questions about their propagation have also attracted more attention. How do calla lilies propagate? What are the propagation methods for calla lilies? Let's take a look together below.

I. How do calla lilies propagate? Mainly by cuttings

When it comes to how calla lilies propagate, there are actually many methods, including five: sowing, cuttings, division, the bulb method and tissue culture. Among them, sowing and cuttings propagation are the two more commonly used, but as long as they are operated properly, the survival rate of all five methods is very high. The specific propagation details are described in detail below. Let's take a look.

II. Propagation methods for calla lilies

1. Sowing propagation

Before sowing and propagating calla lilies, we must first soak the seeds in warm water. This can play a role in promoting germination. The soaking time is between 12-24 hours. Once they begin to absorb water and swell, they can be taken out and sown. When sowing, we should first apply an appropriate amount of base fertilizer into the soil, then evenly scatter the seeds on the soil surface, then cover them with 1-2cm of soil, water thoroughly, and place them in a cool place to wait for germination.

2. Cutting propagation

Among the propagation methods for calla lilies, cutting propagation is one of the more commonly used methods, and it is relatively simple to operate. First, we should choose healthy, robust cuttings, then insert them into the soil. Of course, before cutting, it is best to loosen the soil first to avoid damaging the cuttings when inserting them. At the same time, you can also use chopsticks to first poke a hole in the soil, then insert the cutting into it. This operation can avoid damage to the cuttings and is also very practical.

3. Division propagation

When carrying out division propagation, we can do it together with repotting. When dividing, we should lift the overly dense mother plant out of the pot soil, then cut it into several clumps, pot them separately, and plant them as they are divided. They take root very easily. Generally, after potting, it is already a complete flowering plant. This propagation method for calla lilies is also a relatively simple one.

4. Bulb method

Compared with other propagation methods, the root-seeking method is used relatively less, but its survival rate is not low at all. This method mainly involves digging out the small bulbs naturally produced at the roots of calla lilies, grading them, and then replanting them. This method is generally more suitable for large-scale propagation of calla lilies.

5. Tissue culture method

The tissue culture method is a method in which callus tissue can be produced through leaves, petioles, roots and flower inflorescences, and then adventitious buds are induced for rapid propagation. First, we should cut off leaves, petioles, etc., cut them into small pieces of 1-2 square cm, and then inoculate them onto the culture medium. The cultivation period of this method is slightly longer, generally taking 2-3 months.

Planting methods for several common flowers

Planting methods for several common flowers
1. Iris
Iris is a perennial herb of the genus Iris in the family Iridaceae. It is distributed in almost all provinces and regions across the country, and is also found in Japan.
The rhizome is relatively slender and weak, enters the soil shallowly, grows horizontally, and is yellow-brown. The leaves are sword-shaped, dark green, and glossy. The flower stalks rise above the leaves, and the flowers are numerous, arranged in a terminal, long and sparse raceme. The style has 3 branches, dark purple, enlarged into petal-like shapes, curled back and covering the anthers. The flowering period is April to May. The common flower colors of this species are light purple or light blue. It is suitable for natural-style planting, and also suitable for flower borders, flower beds and as cut flower material.
Ecological habits: It prefers shady and moist places, and has strong adaptability and cold resistance. When cultivated outdoors over winter in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, the aboveground stems and leaves do not completely wither. It requires acidic soil and grows well in a moist, fertile and sunny environment.
Propagation: Mainly by division, generally once every 2-3 years. Division after flowering or in autumn is best, which is beneficial for sufficient plant growth and flower bud differentiation. Divide the dug-out rhizomes, and replant each segment with 1-2 buds. For seed propagation, germination occurs 4-6 weeks after sowing, and it takes 2-3 years after sowing to bloom.
Cultivation and pests and diseases: Before planting, sufficient base fertilizer should be applied. After planting, the rhizomes should be pressed firmly. Shallow planting is suitable, and deep planting is not. In early spring, remove residual leaves to help new buds sprout. During the vigorous growth period, water sufficiently, and fertilize 1-2 times a month to make the flowers abundant and leaves lush. During the flowering period, keep the soil moist, but do not allow waterlogging. After flowering, apply one topdressing, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which is beneficial to rhizome development. After the flowers fade and the rhizomes enter dormancy, keep the soil dry. Common leaf blight and bacterial soft rot are mostly caused by the larvae of the moth, and can be controlled by spraying 40% omethoate EC at 1000 times dilution. During the growth period, there are also slugs and snails doing harm; spray with 3% limewater in the evening.
Planting some flowers and trees around the front and back of farmhouses not only improves the environment but also beautifies life. With clever arrangement, the courtyard becomes beautiful beyond description.
Planting one or two osmanthus or wintersweet trees alone or in pairs in the courtyard is a traditional Chinese garden arrangement. In moist shady areas by the wall, plant shade-tolerant flowers such as iris (commonly known as butterfly flower) and begonia, which will grow well without fine management. For potted flowers on the balcony, small aglaia and Chinese rose are more suitable. On the sunny side, sun-loving flowers such as chrysanthemums and salvia can be planted; sufficient sunlight will make them grow better. Cacti and golden-edged lotus on the roof still grow well even without long-term care. In places that need shade, you might as well plant a few grapevines, morning glories, or Boston ivy by the window or hedge. Even indoors, you can place a few pots of shade-tolerant asparagus fern and orchids on the desk or tea table. In this way, the farm courtyard will become colorful and full of vitality!
2. Cineraria
Cineraria is a perennial herbaceous plant of the family Asteraceae. The whole plant is densely covered with soft hairs. The leaves are in whorls of three, forming a triangular shape, and the leaves resemble cucumber leaves, hence the name cineraria. Its flower colors are gorgeous and rich, including blue flowers rarely seen indoors; and the flowering period is long, about 6 months of blooming time. It is an ideal potted flower for festivals such as New Year's Day, Spring Festival, and "May 1st" Labor Day, and is a representative flower of winter and spring. However, it is not easy to cultivate cineraria potted flowers with good plant shape, beautiful leaf color and long flowering, so one must master the following key technical measures in cineraria cultivation.
Sowing time: Generally choose mid-August. Cineraria likes a cool climate and cannot tolerate hot high temperatures. The suitable growth temperature is 15°C-20°C. The sowing box should be placed under a shade shed or under tree shade. If sowing in beds, a shade shed must be built above the bed soil to reduce the radiant heat of the sun.
Seedling moisture control: This is mainly done by spraying water mist to lower the temperature of the seedbed and supply water to the seedlings. The principle of spraying is that moistening is enough. The seedbed soil must not be too dry, nor too wet. After seedlings wilt from being too dry, it is difficult for them to recover. If too wet, plus seedlings being in a high-temperature period, they are very prone to root stagnation, resulting in a low seedling survival rate.
Preparation of culture soil: Cineraria likes sandy soil rich in humus and with good drainage, with a pH of 6.5-7.5 being more suitable. When preparing the culture soil for sowing, be careful to mix unpolluted leaf mold or plant ash, pure loess and fine sand in a 3:1:1 ratio, then sieve it, and do not add any fertilizer. Culture soil prepared in this way is beneficial to seed germination and growth. Overly sticky culture soil cannot withstand drying; once it cracks slightly, it will break the fibrous roots of the seedlings, leading to seedling death and reducing the survival rate. The culture soil after pricking out can be the same as the culture soil used for sowing, to harden the seedlings. When potting, evenly place soybean cake, bone meal or superphosphate into the culture soil as base fertilizer, or use barnyard manure, burnt soil ash, garden soil, rapeseed cake and fine sand in a 3:2:2:1:1 ratio to prepare the culture soil, so as to ensure sufficient nutrient supply for the plants. Barnyard manure must be composted, decomposed and dried in the sun. Rapeseed cake must be crushed, fully stirred and mixed, and sieved before it can be used as culture soil for final planting.
Pay attention to temperature control: Cineraria likes a cool climate, avoids cold in winter and high temperatures in summer. Therefore, in winter it should be cultivated in a greenhouse, generally maintaining above 10°C, and often keeping the room temperature at around 15°C, so that it can grow well. In summer, place the sowing box under a shade shed, or open a sowing bed under the shade shed, and water before 10:00 a.m. or after 5:00 p.m., which is more suitable. Never water at noon, so that the seedlings can smoothly pass through the high-temperature period.
Pay attention to humidity control in winter: Cineraria has relatively high humidity requirements in order to grow well. How to make the humidity moderate in winter is the key to successfully cultivating cineraria. If it is too dry, the leaves of cineraria are easily in a wilted state for a long time, which is not conducive to leaf growth, easily turns the leaves yellow, and also easily produces red spiders and aphids. If watered too much, indoor humidity is too high, which easily causes the roots, main stems and leaves to rot, and also easily produces aphids. If in addition the room temperature is too high and ventilation is poor, diseases are easily produced.
3. Corn poppy
Corn poppy, also known as lichunhua and manyuanchun, is an annual or biennial herbaceous flower of the genus Papaver in the family Papaveraceae. The plant height is 30 to 90 cm. The stems are slender, and the branches are thin and weak. The leaves are alternate, and the leaf blades are irregularly pinnately lobed with serrations. The whole plant has sparse hairs and milky sap. The flowers are solitary at the tips of the branches, with long pedicels. The flower buds droop, and when the flowers open they immediately straighten. Most horticultural cultivars are double-flowered. The flower colors of corn poppy are extremely rich and gorgeous, including vermilion, ink purple, bright pink, snow white, triple color and so on. The flowers fall after only 1 to 2 days of blooming, but the buds are numerous and open one after another. The flowering period is May to June. The capsule is spherical, the fruit ripening period is July, and the seeds are very small.
Corn poppy is native to Asia and Europe, and is also distributed in North America. It is cold-resistant, suitable for sufficient light and a cool climate environment in spring, and cannot tolerate severe summer heat and humidity. It is usually sown in drills in flowerbed plots in early winter. It has no strict requirements for soil, but loose, fertile sandy loam is best. The row spacing is 20 cm. After sowing, cover with plastic film, or sow in early spring when the surface just thaws, and gradually remove the plastic film after emergence. Corn poppy is a taproot flower, with fine and deep roots and few lateral roots. During the seedling stage, the root length often exceeds the plant height by about 1 times, so it cannot be transplanted. Even if transplanted reluctantly, the survival rate is very low. When drill sowing results in relatively dense seedlings, thin them two or three times at intervals, maintaining a plant spacing of 10 to 15 cm. Corn poppy does not have high requirements for water and fertilizer, but it avoids heavy water and heavy fertilizer and soil waterlogging.
Corn poppy is excellent material for flower beds, flower borders and flower strips. It can also be sown in pots in a greenhouse or cold frame in January, and leave the nursery in late April for use as flowers for the "May 1st" holiday. For home flower growing, it can be cultivated on a south-facing enclosed balcony. In January, use a flower pot with an inner diameter of 20 cm, fill it more than half full with loose old pot soil, press it flat, scatter 20 to 30 seeds, cover with soil only to the extent that the seeds are no longer visible, and after sowing immerse the pot to soak the water up. When the seedlings emerge, thin them several times, remove the weak and keep the strong, and finally keep 3 to 5 plants for final planting. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, gradually fill in planting soil up to the rim to prevent the slender stems from lodging. Keep sufficient light and fresh ambient air, with nighttime temperatures not lower than 5°C, and avoid drought and waterlogging. They can bloom in March, until "May 1st".
Corn poppy and opium poppy belong to the same family, not only looking similar but also having the same habits. The only differences are that opium poppy has a larger plant shape and fruit, and the whole plant is covered [with hairs], while corn poppy is smaller and the whole plant is covered with sparse hairs. But corn poppy is suspected by some people of being the drug opium. In fact, although corn poppy has milky sap in its body, its components do not contain laudanum. Its flowers can be made into a gargle with an antitussive effect, and its milky sap has the effects of relieving pain and stopping diarrhea. In the warm spring sunshine, patches of corn poppy in the courtyard and green spaces compete to show their beauty, like patches of red clouds, and also like squares of silk handkerchiefs. When the breeze blows, both people and flowers feel light and floating.
4. Calceolaria
Calceolaria is an herbaceous plant of the genus Calceolaria in the family Scrophulariaceae. The flower colors include yellow, purple, red, milky white, orange-red, dark brown, etc., and the flowers are decorated with colorful spots and markings, very lovely, and often used for indoor decorative display. It blooms from December to February of the following year, and the flowering period under greenhouse cultivation is March to April.
Calceolaria is native to the region of Mexico and Chile, likes cool and humid conditions, and can grow at 3°C to 6°C indoors in winter. During the growth period, relatively high air humidity needs to be maintained. Pay attention to ventilation; sufficient light is beneficial to plant flowering.
Ventilation and shading: Calceolaria likes cool conditions, and the suitable growth temperature is around 10°C. If during the growth period the stems and leaves develop luxuriantly, while the pot soil is too wet plus muggy, the stem base of the plant will rot. To lower the temperature, shading measures are often taken at noon to create a ventilated and cool environment. Especially after flowering in spring until the seeds mature from May to June, ventilation work must be done even better, and shading at noon is beneficial to the development and maturation of the seeds.
Watering and fertilizing: Calceolaria likes a warm and humid environment, but avoids overly wet pot soil and excessive watering during flowering. Generally, water only when the pot soil is dry. If in a greenhouse, frequently spraying water to increase air humidity is even better. When watering, do not directly flush the plant. If water accumulates on the leaves and buds, it easily causes rot. During the pre-flowering growth season, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 10 days (diluted 10 times). At the early flowering stage, increase the application of phosphorus-based fertilizer. When fertilizing, do not let the fertilizer water contaminate the leaves, so as to avoid rotting hearts and leaves.
Propagation techniques: Calceolaria is generally propagated by sowing. When seeds are lacking, division can also be used. Sowing should be carried out when the weather turns cool after high temperatures, that is, from August to September, because seedlings are prone to damping-off and rot during high-temperature periods. Use leaf mold or peat soil mixed with half sand, sieve and disinfect it, then put it into a shallow pot, fill with enough water by the immersion method, and then sow. Calceolaria seeds are very small, in the form of relatively coarse powder granules. When sowing, it is best to first fold thick paper into a small triangular funnel, place the seeds in it, then hold the lower part of the small funnel with the right hand, so that the seeds fall evenly into the sowing pot. Do not make it too dense, otherwise the seedlings will grow thin and weak after emergence. For covering with soil, only use a fine-mesh sieve to cover with a thin layer of fine soil (it does not matter if not covered with soil). After sowing, cover the pot with glass to maintain humidity. Before emergence, place it in a cool place, keep the temperature at around 20°C, and emergence can occur in about 7 to 10 days. After emergence, remove the glass piece, thin the seedlings, and let them gradually receive sunlight, lowering the temperature to around 15°C.
When the seedlings show 2 true leaves, they can be transplanted. Once they grow 4 to 6 true leaves, they can be potted individually. For the culture soil, mix 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part barnyard manure, 1 part sand, and 6 parts garden soil, with a pH value of 6.5. From November to December, they can be potted into large pots for final planting.
5. Cockscomb
Cockscomb, also known as red cockscomb and rooster amaranth, is named because its inflorescence is twisted and folded like a cockscomb. It is an annual herbaceous plant with a plant height of 30-50 cm. The stem is upright, and the upper part of the stem is flat, green or red. The leaves are alternate, ovate, ovate-lanceolate or lanceolate, gradually narrowing at the tip, entire, and stalked. The spike is terminal, and the flower axis is flat and fleshy, cockscomb-shaped, yellow, white or red-purple, with a velvety luster. The flowering period is July to October. The utricle is ovate, circumscissile, containing 4 seeds. The seeds are black and glossy, with a 1000-seed weight of 0.85 grams. Used for flower beds and flower borders, and can also be potted. It is also relatively good as a cut flower, and the flower arrangement time can reach more than 10 days.
Cockscomb has four types, namely child-mother cockscomb, common cockscomb, garden velvet cockscomb and phoenix-tail cockscomb. In addition, there are many varieties. Divided by plant height, there are dwarf varieties (20-30 cm), medium-stem varieties (40-60 cm) and tall-stem varieties (higher than 60 cm). Divided by flowering period, there are differences between early-flowering and late-flowering. The colors range from extremely pale yellow (nearly white) to golden yellow and brown yellow, and from jade red, rose red and orange red to purple-red, and there are also composite colors such as sprinkled gold and Erqiao mixed with yellow and red series.
Cockscomb is native to India. It likes a hot and dry climate and fears waterlogging. It grows well in sunny, fertile sandy soil. It avoids sticky soil, and grows poorly in barren, non-breathable soil, with the inflorescence becoming smaller. It can self-sow and propagate.
Sowing propagation: sow in open-field seedbeds from March to April in spring. When sowing, it should not be covered with soil. After covering with grass, water it and keep the soil moist. After germination, remove the covering grass. Transplant when there are 2 leaves. When the seedlings grow to 5-10 cm, plant them in the field or pot them. No fertilization is needed during the seedling stage, otherwise the side branches will grow vigorously and affect the development of the main branch. After the cockscomb forms, thin fertilizer can be applied to promote its growth. Seeds are prone to variation, so careful selection should be made every year when saving seeds.
Cockscomb can regulate the flowering period by controlling the sowing time. Generally, sowing can be carried out from March to June. Sow according to the need for flowers to meet the demand for holiday flowers.
Growth habits: It likes a warm and dry climate, fears drought, likes sunlight, and cannot tolerate waterlogging, but has no strict requirements for soil. Generally, it can be planted in ordinary soil courtyards. It is a new way to develop courtyard economy at present, and people of insight might as well give it a try.
Propagation and cultivation: Seed propagation method. Around Qingming, choose a good plot, apply sufficient base fertilizer, plow finely and harrow evenly, level and make beds, evenly scatter the seeds on the bed surface, slightly cover the seeds, firm the soil and water thoroughly. Generally, at a temperature of 15-20°C, emergence can occur in 10-15 days. For summer sowing after Mangzhong, sow with a row spacing of 30 cm. When the seedlings are 6 cm tall, thin them with a plant spacing of 20 cm. The thinned seedlings can be transplanted to other field plots, and after transplanting they must be watered. During the seedling stage, weeds must be removed and the soil loosened. When it is not too dry, water as little as possible. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, apply topdressing once. After the rows close, appropriately remove old leaves. When flowering and heading, if the weather is dry, water appropriately. In low-lying areas during the rainy season, strictly prevent waterlogging. After heading, the flower buds in the leaf axils of the lower part can be removed to concentrate nutrients on the growth of the top main spike.
Pest and disease control: If root rot occurs during the seedling stage, quicklime can be broadcast in the field. During the growth period, the small bridge caterpillar is likely to occur. Spraying dimethoate or pyrethroid pesticides on the leaves can play a control role.
Harvesting and processing: Generally around White Dew, the seeds gradually turn black and mature. The flower stalks can be cut off in time and placed in a ventilated place to dry. When drying, take them out early and bring them back late, and do not let them be exposed to night dew, so as to avoid deterioration and reduced medicinal efficacy. Store them in bags.
6. Garden balsam
Garden balsam is also called zhi jia cao, tou gu cao, jin feng hua and sa jin hua. Its place of origin is China and India, and it can be planted in flower pots or flower beds. Garden balsam is an annual or biennial herbaceous plant, about 25-35 cm tall. The flowers include white, pink, orange-red, copper-red, etc. The flower types include single-petaled and double-petaled. It is a very beautiful plant.
The suitable temperature for garden balsam germination is 22°C-30°C. Sowing period: March to April or September to October.
The suitable temperature for garden balsam growth is 15°C-32°C. Flowering period: May to July, December to February.
I. Before planting:
Flower growth is closely related to various factors in the natural environment, including temperature, light, water, culture medium and other factors. Temperature is the most important factor affecting flower growth. If air conditioning or heating is used indoors to regulate temperature, planting will not be affected by the seasons, but after emergence, the plants must be placed by a sunny window to let them receive as much sufficient sunlight as possible.
II. When planting:
Okay, now we are about to start sowing. Please confirm again before sowing: whether the conditions required for seed germination and growth are now available.
III. Planting:
1. When planting, pay special attention that at most only a thin layer of soil can cover the surface of the flower seeds, 1-3 times the diameter of the flower seeds (as accurate as possible; feeling is also important). If the seeds are buried too deep, it will make seed germination difficult.
2. Adjust the spray bottle to a mist state and spray an appropriate amount of water on it;
3. Cover the mouth of the flower pot with glass or plastic wrap to reduce water evaporation;
4. Place the flower pot in a shady place without light, and remember to open it for 15-20 minutes every day for ventilation;
5. Flower seeds generally germinate in about 10-15 days. Be patient while waiting for germination. Sometimes factors such as temperature changes will affect the seed germination time, so please wait patiently.
IV. Emergence:
1. The seeds have germinated! At this time, please wait until the first pair of leaves on the sprout unfolds symmetrically, then immediately remove the covering (glass plate, plastic wrap), and place it in a sunny place, avoiding direct sunlight, pay attention to temperature changes, and do not water excessively.
2. When the first pair of cotyledons has fully unfolded and appears green, gradually increase the duration of direct sunlight.
3. When the first pair of true leaves grows, place it under all-day direct sunlight, and pay attention to the dryness of the culture medium, watering appropriately. When the second pair of true leaves grows, it indicates that the most difficult stage of planting has been passed. As long as temperature and moisture are well controlled, garden balsam will grow vigorously.
V. Light:
1. If the plant lacks light, leggy growth often occurs, making the plant slender, thin and weak, and prone to lodging. The light duration should be increased.
2. Turn the flower pot as often as possible, so that the branches and leaves of the plant receive sunlight from all angles and grow fully.
VI. Care:
1. When the seedlings grow to nearly one inch, keep the robust plants, and the rest need to "move" - repotting.
2. When repotting, be careful not to damage the fibrous roots. When moving the seedling out, dig a hole of appropriate width and depth in the center of the flower pot, let its root system fully spread out, cover with culture medium, press lightly, and then water an appropriate amount.
VII. Watering:
1. During the emergence period, the soil needs to be kept moist. After emergence, keep it somewhat drier, so that the surface soil is dry while the interior remains moist, which is better;
2. Water as much as possible in the morning, avoiding sunlight;
3. It is best to let the water sit for 4-6 minutes first to dissipate the chlorine in tap water;
4. When watering, it is best to use a fine-spout pot, starting from a place far from the plant and gradually moving closer to the plant, watering more around it and less near the plant, and try not to splash it on the leaves and stems.;
7. Lily
Lily is a perennial root vegetable crop, and its main food part is the bulb. In addition to being used as a vegetable, processed products are also widely used in medicine and health foods.
Ziyuan County has a long history of planting lilies, but due to long-term mixed varieties and extensive cultivation management, the unit yield is relatively low. To obtain better economic benefits from planting lilies, great effort must be made in cultivation.
1. Land selection: It is suitable to choose acidic sandy loam with sufficient light, deep soil layer, convenient irrigation and drainage, and a pH value of 5.7-6.3 for cultivation. The previous crop is best to be legumes or grasses. Crop rotation should be carried out, and continuous cropping is not suitable.
2. Selection of fine varieties: There are many lily varieties, mainly Longya lily, Yixing lily and Lanzhou lily. Ziyuan County mostly uses Longya lily, which has large heads, good quality, strong stress resistance, vigorous growth and high yield. Generally, small bulbs (single fruit weight 30-50g) are used for propagation. Lily bulbs easily carry diseases, so robust bulbs without a leaking bottom, without disease spots and without mechanical damage must be selected as seed bulbs to ensure neat emergence and few infections. Planted in the current year, they can be harvested the following year. If the seed source is insufficient, scale propagation can also be used, but it must be planted continuously for three years before harvesting. Seeds are collected in July, stored in sand for after-ripening, and sown from late August to September.
3. Land preparation and sowing: Before planting, in August, broadcast about 100 kg of lime per mu, deep plow the soil two to three times, then apply 30-40 kg per mu of potassium sulfate ternary compound fertilizer, prepare the land and make beds. The bed surface width is about 1 m and the bed height is 20-30 cm, ensuring no waterlogging, then open furrows for planting. At the bottom of the furrow, apply decomposed chopped cattle pen manure, chicken manure, burnt soil ash, tung oil cake and other organic fertilizers, 1200-1500 kg per mu, cover with a thin layer of soil, then sow. The seed bulbs must not touch the organic fertilizer. If rapeseed cake is used, the lilies turn yellow and the export grade is low; applying pig manure easily causes pests. The planting density is 30×20 cm, and the seed quantity per mu is 125-150 kg. The harvest amount after one year of planting is 4-6 times the seed quantity.
4. Pest and disease control:
Disease control: The main diseases of lily are damping-off and root rot. Before planting, first soak the seeds in 300 times formalin for 5 minutes, then dry them and sow. After emergence, use 80% mancozeb 1000 times, or 25% carbendazim 1000 times, or 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder 600-800 times, alternating once every 7-10 days, spraying continuously 2-3 times.
Pest control: For underground pests, use 50% phoxim emulsion or 50% fenaminosulf mixed into poisonous soil, and evenly scatter it into the planting furrows. For aphids, spray 10% imidacloprid wettable powder at 2000 times, once every 7-10 days.
5. Timely harvesting: It can be harvested from July to August each year. Harvesting on a sunny day one week before the Start of Autumn gives the highest yield. Harvesting after the stems and leaves wither in autumn is also possible, but the dry slice rate is low and the benefit is not as good as the former. At harvest, large bulbs can be sold fresh or processed into dry slices, and small bulbs below 50g are all kept as seed.
8. Bleeding heart
Bleeding heart is native to Hebei and Northeast China. It likes a semi-shady environment with sufficient scattered light and is relatively cold-resistant, but fears midsummer heat and high temperatures and fears strong light exposure. Therefore, it is suitable to be placed under large trees in the courtyard, under grape trellises, on the shady side of tall buildings, or on east- or north-facing balconies. During the summer dormancy period, place it in a well-ventilated shady place, where it cannot receive direct light, and often sprinkle water on the nearby ground to increase air humidity and lower temperature.
Ecological habits:
Cold-resistant, avoids high temperatures, likes shady and humid environments and loose, fertile neutral soil. It grows poorly in sandy soil and clay. By midsummer the stems and leaves turn yellow and it enters dormancy. Dormant in hot summer. It cannot tolerate drought, and likes moist, well-drained fertile sandy loam. It grows poorly in sandy soil and clay soil. Avoid direct sunlight. The flowering period is April to June. It sprouts relatively early in spring, and after flowering until summer the stems and leaves gradually turn yellow and it becomes dormant.
Bleeding heart propagation:
For propagation and cultivation, division, cuttings and sowing can all be used.
Bleeding heart division propagation method.
It is suitable to carry out in early spring in February after the buds sprout and before new leaves grow. When dividing, dig up the whole plant, shake off the soil from the roots, then use a knife to cut off the tender rhizomes around the main rhizome together with roots, divide them into 2-3 plants, and plant them in a prepared seedbed, covering with 2-3 cm of soil, watering thoroughly, and placing in a shady place. Division can also be done after the plants enter dormancy in autumn, with a method similar to early spring division. It must be done at the right time. If the new leaves of the old plant have already unfolded before division, the root system is easily damaged and the survival rate is low. Division can also be done during the late autumn dormancy period, but the survival rate is not high. It can only be divided once every 2 or 3 years, and cannot be divided every year.
The commonly used division method: before germination in March, dig out the underground part, remove old roots and rotten roots, separate the rhizomes naturally along the growth direction, with each piece carrying 3-5 buds, and replant. They can bloom in May of the same year. In spring, break off basal shoots for cuttings, and roots can develop in about 1 month. For sowing propagation, seedlings must be cultivated for 3 years before they can bloom.
Bleeding heart cutting propagation method
Cutting substrate: Choose loose, well-drained sandy loam rich in humus as the substrate, with a pH value between 5 and 6. Before use, it is best to disinfect it with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution.
Cutting time: carry out from June to July each year, when there is more rain and the ground and air temperatures are also fairly suitable, so the survival rate of cuttings is high.
Softwood cuttings: in June and July, after all the flowers have faded, select fully grown, vigorous branches with fairly plump axillary buds, cut off the flower heads, and 7-10 days later cut healthy lower branches with axillary buds into sections of 2 to 3 nodes, each section about 10-15 cm long, keep one leaf at the upper end and thin out some of the small leaflets, insert 2 nodes into the soil, leaving the upper node with its small leaflets exposed above the soil surface, at a plant and row spacing of 10 cm x 10 cm.
Dip the cut ends in sulfur powder or plant ash, insert them into plain soil, water and place in a shady spot, mist the cuttings frequently, but keep watering of the potting soil restrained, just slightly moist without drying out; roots will form in about a month, and the following spring they can be potted up with the soil ball for permanent planting; with good management they can bloom that same year. The insertion depth is 1/3 of the branch length. The cutting bed can be sandy loam or sandy soil, but never fertilize it; after inserting the cuttings water thoroughly and shade them, and generally they will root in 30-40 days.
After-planting management:
After inserting the cuttings, water once thoroughly with a fine-rose watering can so that the cuttings make close contact with the medium. Arch a low tunnel over the bed, cover it with plastic film, and put straw curtains on top to create a semi-shaded environment. Keep the temperature at around 25°C; when it is too high, ventilate moderately to cool it down, and always keep the bed soil moist. Roots will form in about 40 days; gradually remove the tunnel film and straw curtains, and the following spring they can be transplanted for permanent planting and will bloom that same year.
Plant in March to April; cuttings are mostly taken in late March, and sowing is mostly done in autumn. When planted in the ground, Dicentra spectabilis needs covering for warmth in winter. Potted plants are mostly divided or repotted around late March. In the hot summer, place them in half shade, and in the rainy season be careful to prevent water from accumulating in the pot.
Or cut the rhizome into sections to propagate. In autumn dig out the underground parts, separate the rhizomes naturally along their segments, and plant them separately. Alternatively, cut the rhizome into sections, each with a bud eye, insert them into sand, and after they root plant them in pots. For seed propagation, seedlings grown from seed need 3 years before they can bloom.
Seed propagation method for Dicentra spectabilis.
When the seeds mature in late June, harvest them promptly: cut off the flower heads and dry them in the sun, winnow the seeds clean, then broadcast them in the seedbed at once, water thoroughly, and seedlings will emerge in about 15 days. Cover in winter to keep the seedlings alive through the cold. The following spring, plant out the sturdy young seedlings at a plant and row spacing of 30-50 cm; seedlings grown from seed need 3 years before they can bloom.
Home gardeners generally do not use this; park and garden departments use it only for mass propagation or for breeding new hybrid varieties.
Cultivation of Dicentra spectabilis
For ground planting, choose a site with higher terrain; before planting, deep-dig the bed soil and work in rotted organic fertilizer; during the growing period, topdress in combination with irrigation; in summer's high temperatures the stems and leaves turn yellow and the plant enters dormancy, so the dead branches can be cut away; before Frost's Descent, water once thoroughly to help protect against the cold. For pot culture, use a lightweight potting mix enriched with fertilizer, water thoroughly after planting, and keep it in a sunny spot; during the growing period give it plenty of fertilizer and water. Move it as little as possible during the flowering period so that fallen flowers do not spoil its ornamental value; after flowering, if seed is not wanted, promptly cut off the faded flowers.
Management of Dicentra spectabilis
Dicentra spectabilis is cold-hardy and likes shade, and does not tolerate high temperatures; it grows well planted in loam rich in humus, and should generally be watered once a week. During bud formation, apply 1-2 rounds of rotted manure water; do not water too much, just keep it moist. During the growing period, apply once every 2-3 weeks with rotted urine diluted 5 times with water. If sown directly in a flower bed, thin the seedlings when they have 5 leaves, at a plant spacing of 30 cm. The following March apply once more with rotted urine diluted 3 times with water, and wait for it to bloom. In July collect the black fruits, dry them in the sun, thresh and store the seed.
Pests and diseases of Dicentra spectabilis
For scale insects, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution; leaf spot sometimes occurs, and it can be prevented and controlled by spraying with 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution.
For leaf spot, spray with 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution. Among insect pests there is damage from scale insects, which can be killed by spraying with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution.
9. Daylily
Hemerocallis hybrida, a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Hemerocallis in the Liliaceae family, is native to China, Japan and Eurasia, and is now widely cultivated around the world; it is an excellent perennial flowering plant for landscapes.
Hemerocallis hybrida has strong drought resistance, tolerates high temperatures, withstands low temperatures, and adapts to a wide temperature range, so it can be planted from south to north in our country. It has strong disease resistance and wide adaptability to soil; apart from soil that is too acidic, too alkaline, too sandy or too clayey, it can generally be grown, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 being best.
Propagation methods
Dividing the daylily clumps is the most commonly used propagation method. This method is simple to carry out, the plants survive easily, and their growth is fairly uniform. For division, the whole mother clump can be dug up and replanted in divisions; or part of the plants can be dug out from one side of the mother clump to serve as stock, while the rest is left to continue growing.
Division is mostly carried out in spring before sprouting or in autumn after the leaves fall. If divided and transplanted in spring, they can send up scapes and bloom that same year; if divided and transplanted in autumn, they can only send up scapes and bloom the following year. When transplanting, choose plants that are vigorous, have many buds, are of good quality and are free of pests and diseases.
When dividing, dig out part of the clump's tillers as stock; the dug-out portion must have roots, cut it apart at the shortened stem, remove the old, decayed and diseased roots, keep as many fleshy roots as possible, shorten them appropriately (leaving about 10 cm) and then plant them. Planting should be done on a sunny day, digging, dividing and planting the seedlings as you go, injuring the roots as little as possible, so that they recover quickly. Generally divide once every 2 to 3 years to ensure vigorous growth of the plants.
Sowing is a method for rapidly producing large numbers of seedlings, but because the seed germination rate is low, the seeds must first be soaked to germinate, and only after sowing and a year's growth can they be planted out. Each year around September comes the seed-collection period; the plants should be robust, the fruits plump, and free of pests and diseases. Sow the following spring.
The seedbed should first be given plenty of base fertilizer; the bed is 1.3 to 1.7 m wide and about 30 m long, with drainage ditches dug on both sides. When sowing, open shallow furrows about 3 cm deep every 20 cm, sow the seeds evenly into the furrows, cover with a layer of fine soil, then spread a thin layer of fine sand. Before emergence, water and weed, keeping the soil moisture good, and by autumn the seedlings can be lifted and planted out. Each mu of seedbed uses 2.5 kg of seed and can raise 50,000 to 60,000 seedlings.
The seeds can also be soaked to hasten germination and then sown in the open field to raise seedlings, at a sowing rate of 5 to 7 kg per mu, using flat-ground drilling. Open furrows at a row spacing of 30 cm, about 3 cm deep, and sow one seed every 3 to 5 cm; after the plants grow 2 to 3 leaves, apply one round of dilute human and animal manure. For overwintering, use a small arch tunnel for cold protection; after spring begins, strengthen field management, and by August they can be transplanted. Seeds collected from evergreen daylilies can be sown directly, or stored at room temperature and then sown.
Bud division: flower buds refer to the small plantlets on the flower scapes of Hemerocallis hybrida. The flower buds can be cut off from the scape, and if they are fairly large they can be further divided before planting. After transplanting, the flower buds can root within a week. Rooted flower buds can be used to propagate plants, increasing the number planted and ultimately raising economic returns.
Tissue culture: use young leaves, filaments, flower scapes and other organs to culture into plants. The method is to first induce the young organs to produce callus, then culture them into young plantlets on a suitable medium under suitable conditions of temperature, humidity, light and air. The plantlets are then temporarily planted in nutrient pots and, after a period of culture, grown into young plants, after which they are planted out. However, this method has not yet been widely accepted.
Besides the four methods described above, other methods can also be used to propagate Hemerocallis hybrida. Individual clonal plants can be divided into thin slices with growing points and roots, and after about 6 months of planting they can be divided again. When dividing, these plants must not be smaller than 1/4 of the original plant. Another method is to cut the top of the corona and use plant growth regulators to strengthen the vitality of the cut plants, carrying out in vitro culture to promote rooting, and then planting them.
Planting
Hemerocallis hybrida is mostly planted in early spring in early March before sprouting. Although it is not strict about soil, since it will grow for many years after planting, attention should be paid to the choice of planting site. It is best to choose level ground with a low water table, or sloping land with a good water source and irrigation conditions, with good drainage, loose soil and deep soil layers. Newly opened wasteland must be fully weathered, or organic fertilizer applied to raise its organic matter content. The land must be levelled; because Hemerocallis hybrida has strong tillering ability, the plant and row spacing must be kept at 40 to 50 cm when planting. Dig holes for planting, with the holes arranged in a triangle, planting 3 to 5 plants. Planting should not be too deep or too shallow: too deep and tillering is slow; too shallow and tillering is fast but the plants mostly grow spindly. Generally the planting hole is more than 30 cm deep, base fertilizer is applied up to 15 to 20 cm from the ground surface, and after planting the soil is earthed up and firmed. Apply 500 to 600 kg per mu of human and animal manure mixed with water as a spot application to settle the seedlings, ensuring the survival rate.
Management
Fertilizing: Hemerocallis hybrida has a long flowering period and a fairly large demand for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium; besides applying plenty of base fertilizer at planting (rotted cow dung or pig dung is preferable), fertilizer should also be applied according to the needs of different developmental stages. When nitrogen is sufficient, it can promote vigorous plant growth and larger leaves. Phosphorus can promote root growth, strengthen tillering ability, help the transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth, strengthen bud-forming ability, and promote drought resistance, cold resistance and disease resistance and improve quality. When potassium is supplied sufficiently, the plant tissues are tough, growth is vigorous, disease resistance is strong, and in the mid-to-late stage the flower scapes emerge neatly and stoutly, the flower buds develop large, and bud-forming ability is enhanced. Therefore, topdressing is needed twice, before flowering and during flowering, each time mainly with quick-acting fertilizer combined with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and nitrogen fertilizer must not be applied one-sidedly. You can also spray 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate to promote larger flowers and also achieve the effect of extending the flowering period.
Irrigation: Hemerocallis hybrida has fairly strong drought resistance and does not need much water during vegetative growth, so irrigation should be based on the water needs of each growth and development stage of the daylily and combined with the local climate, soil and water source conditions. After new seedlings are transplanted, the soil water-holding capacity must be maintained at 70% to 80%, and watered promptly in drought. At the seedling stage the plants are small and their water needs are also small. From the start of reproductive growth, water needs gradually increase; if water is lacking at this time it will affect growth. During the bud stage the soil must always be kept moist to prevent the buds from dropping due to drought, generally watering once a week. Water thoroughly and evenly, preferably in the morning and evening. In July and August there is a lot of rain, so drain to prevent waterlogging. Before winter begins, apply winter water to ensure early sprouting the following year.
Weeding: after permanent planting and during the seedling stage, cultivate and weed promptly. At the seedling stage, cultivate shallowly rather than deeply, and deepen the cultivation as the seedlings age. Before the spring shoots emerge, do one shallow loosening of the soil, and after emergence hoe shallowly 3 to 4 times at appropriate times, which achieves both weed control and drought prevention. Cultivation and weeding should be done when the soil moisture is moderate, and can stop once the leaf clumps cover the ground. Remove weeds in the daylily field promptly; if weeds grow in profusion they easily trigger pests and diseases, affecting the growth and appearance of the daylilies.
For weeding, traditional hand weeding can be used, or herbicides suitable for Hemerocallis hybrida can be used. Sethoxydim, also known as Nabu, is a selective pre-emergence and post-emergence foliage treatment agent that can control gramineous weeds such as barnyardgrass, wild oat, foxtail, goosegrass and bermudagrass; penoxalin, also known as pendimethalin, is a selective pre-emergence soil treatment agent, very effective before emergence against annual narrow-leaved weeds and certain broad-leaved weeds, such as annual gramineous weeds like crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, shortawn foxtail and bluegrass, and broad-leaved weeds like lambsquarters, amaranth, chickweed, jumping gallant soldier and shepherd's purse; metolachlor, also known as metolachlor, is a selective pre-emergence dryland soil treatment agent used to control annual gramineous weeds such as barnyardgrass, crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail and lovegrass, and also controls some small-seeded broad-leaved weeds such as amaranth, purslane, shepherd's purse, jumping gallant soldier and chickweed, and rice flatsedge, but has poor control effect on perennial weeds and most broad-leaved weeds; fluazifop-buthyl, a post-emergence foliage treatment herbicide, has good control effect on annual and perennial gramineous weeds and is ineffective against broad-leaved weeds and sedges. In addition there are Surflan, Snapshot and others, all of which can be used to control weeds in Hemerocallis hybrida beds.
Pest and disease control: rust, leaf spot and leaf blight are diseases very prone to occur in daylilies. Rust is a fungal disease and the main disease in the mid-to-late stage of daylilies; it begins to occur in early May, is most severe from June to July, and only gradually stops after October, damaging leaves and flower scapes. At first a few yellow powdery spots appear on the leaves, then they gradually spread over the whole leaf, until the whole plant dies. When the disease occurs, fungicides such as triadimefon and fenaminosulf can be sprayed for control. Leaf spot is caused by fungi of the genus Fusarium and is the main disease of daylilies at the seedling stage; it begins in late March to early April, with the peak from mid-to-late April to mid-to-late May. It often occurs in the middle part on both sides of the leaf midrib, and after perforation it interrupts the transport of water and nutrients; the leaf tip first turns yellow and withers, and finally the whole leaf wilts and dies. Bordeaux mixture or lime sulfur mixture can be sprayed for control.;
Leaf blight is caused by pathogenic fungi of the genus Colletotrichum and is a seedling-stage disease that occurs after leaf spot. It generally begins in early May, is most severe in early to mid-June, and mainly damages leaves, also damaging flower scapes. It occurs from the seedling stage: small water-soaked spots first appear at the middle edge of the leaf, then gradually spread upward and downward, forming brown streaks, finally turning grayish white, and in severe cases the whole leaf dies. It can be controlled by spraying 50% carbendazim at 600 to 800 times dilution, or by spraying Bordeaux mixture around Qingming.
The main insect pests of daylily are red spiders and aphids. Red spiders are small red mites shaped like spiders that mainly pierce and suck sap on the underside of leaves, causing grayish-white spots at the damaged sites. They can be controlled with 40% dimethoate emulsion, 20% clofentezine wettable powder and the like. Aphids mainly occur in May, first damaging the leaves, then piercing and sucking sap on the flower buds; the damaged buds are thin and small and easily drop. They can be controlled with lime sulfur mixture, 40% dimethoate emulsion, 25% malathion emulsifiable concentrate, tobacco lime water and the like. In addition, in the breeding trials of Hemerocallis hybrida it was found that from May to August snails cause fairly serious damage to Hemerocallis hybrida, and control measures should be taken promptly.
10. Amaryllis
Amaryllis, also known as belladonna lily, hundred-branch lotus and trumpet flower, is a plant of the genus Hippeastrum in the Amaryllidaceae family. The amaryllis flower stalk stands gracefully, with 4-6 vermilion trumpet-shaped flowers borne at the top, opening toward the sun, appearing especially brilliant and pleasing. Because the amaryllis resembles the clivia in appearance, it also has the elegant name "gentleman red". Tianjin calls it "rouge cave", which captures the idea quite well. It is now widely cultivated around the world; besides potted ornamental use, it is planted in open-field courtyards to form a community landscape, adding to the garden scenery. In recent years, European and American horticulturists, for the convenience of flower growers, have specially produced amaryllis as canned flowers. To date, production in Europe is fairly large; in the main producing country, the Netherlands, the sales value of amaryllis reached 19.1 million US dollars in 1995, and Belgium, Germany, France and Spain all have a certain output. In Asia, eastern India produces amaryllis bulbs, but its production facilities are backward and quality is poor. In our country, during 1912-1949, Nanjing, Shanghai and other places already had potted ornamental amaryllis, and from the 1970s it began to be planted around open-field courtyards in southern China as a landscape ornament. In recent years, many fine varieties have been introduced from abroad across the country, many of them dwarf varieties suitable for potted ornament, creating conditions for the development and use of amaryllis.
Sowing and division are commonly used for propagation.
Seed propagation: sow indoors in pots in May to June, with an optimum germination temperature of 18-22°C, germinating about 20 days after sowing. During the seedling stage pay attention to fertilizer and water management; when the true leaves reach 3-4, carry out the first transplanting, keeping a certain plant spacing. From sowing to flowering takes 3-4 years.
Division propagation: for potted amaryllis, carry it out when repotting in February to March; before dividing, first remove the old roots and old soil, separate the small bulbs growing beside the mother bulb, and pot them by bulb size, generally flowering bulbs with a circumference of 24-26 cm. When planting, leave 1/3 of the bulb exposed above the soil surface. Plant in March, and they flower in April to May.
In recent years, scale cutting, scoring and tissue culture methods have been widely used abroad to propagate amaryllis.
Scale cutting propagation: choose well-developed, disease-free bulbs, peel off the overly old outer scales, and keep the plump middle scales for propagation, but each scale must have a stem plate. In September insert the scales into a sand bed, keep them moist at 18-20°C, and that same year they form small bulbs and root at the base. The following spring new shoots grow from the small bulbs, and they need 3 more years of culture to become flowering bulbs.
Scoring propagation: choose bulbs with a circumference of 24-26 cm, soak the bulbs in 1% copper sulfate solution for 5 minutes, wash them with water, cut off 1/3 of the bulb, gently score the main bud in the center of the bulb with a knife, place it flat on a sand bed, keep the room temperature at 18-22°C and maintain fairly high air humidity; after 2 months several small bulbs form between the scales.
For potted amaryllis, choose loose, fertile, slightly acidic leaf mold or peat soil. A flowering bulb with a circumference of 24-26 cm needs a 12 cm pot; commercial cultivation also uses 18-20 cm pots, planting 3 bulbs. The planting depth is such that 1/3 of the bulb is exposed above the potting soil. Water little at first planting; when flower stems or leaves appear, keep the potting soil moist. During the growing period fertilize once every half month, and after the flower stem emerges apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer once. After flowering continue to supply water and fertilizer to promote plump, well-filled bulbs. In commercial production amaryllis is often forced: using flowering bulbs pretreated at a low temperature of 5°C for 50 days, under conditions of a soil temperature of 21°C and a room temperature of 17-19°C, they flower 6 weeks after planting. According to trial reports, soaking the bulbs in indoleacetic acid can increase the weight and number of small bulbs. Soaking the bulbs in gibberellin (GA3) can increase bulb weight and enlarge the flower diameter. Soaking in chlormequat (CCC) can increase the number of flowers. Spraying the amaryllis leaves with indoleacetic acid, gibberellin and chlormequat can likewise increase the number of small bulbs and flowers.
If seed is to be collected from amaryllis, artificial pollination should be carried out to increase the seed-setting rate. Because amaryllis seeds are flat and extremely thin and easily lose water and lose germinating ability, they should be sown immediately after collection. If bulbs are being produced, cut off the flower stems promptly after flowering so as not to consume the bulb's nutrients. After leaves grow, strengthen fertilizing to promote bulb enlargement and the production of new bulbs. Bulbs can be stored for 8-10 weeks at 13°C, and can be stored long-term at 5°C.
The main diseases are viral disease, spot disease and nematode disease. Spot disease damages leaves and flowers.
11. Peony
The peony is one of our country's traditional famous flowers, with a cultivation history of more than 3000 years. Peony flower forms are varied, the flower colors brilliant, the green leaves elegant, and the clumps full; used for landscaping and ornament, it can lead people into a realm of endless beauty.
The peony is a perennial herbaceous flower of the Ranunculaceae family, with a plant height of about 1 m; the flowers are borne singly at the top of the current year's branches, and some are borne in the leaf axils at the top; the flower stalk is fairly long, and the flowers are divided into single and double forms, with colors including white, yellow, pink, purple, rose and many others.
Peony flowers have strong cold resistance and can overwinter naturally in the open field in most areas of northern China. But their heat resistance is fairly poor, and growth stops in the hot summer. They like sunlight, but can also grow and bloom in light shade. They like moisture, but fear waterlogging, and are suitable for growing in deep, fertile, well-drained sandy loam; low-lying saline-alkaline land is not suitable for cultivation.
Peonies are commonly propagated by division, with the division time preferably from late August to mid-September. The division method is to dig up clumps that are more than 3 years old, shake off the soil, and after drying in the shade until slightly wilted, take three or four buds as one plant, find the smallest natural connection point and cut it apart with a sharp knife, coating the cut with charcoal powder for antisepsis. To promote new root germination, the fleshy roots can be shortened to 15 cm. After division, plant as soon as possible.
The growth characteristics of the peony are that after sprouting in spring it grows rapidly and blooms, and after flowering it stops growing upward and the number of leaves no longer increases. In late autumn all the aboveground stems and leaves die, and underground the spindle-shaped fleshy roots, storing ample nutrients, lie deep in the soil; at the root crown are dormant young buds, which break through the soil when spring returns the following year.
1. Land requirements:
Choose sandy soil with high terrain, dryness, good drainage, deep soil layers and looseness and fertility. Before planting, apply plenty of base fertilizer, preferably rotted cake fertilizer (200 kg/mu) or dried manure (1500 kg/mu); deep-dig and level before planting.
2. Planting time and specifications:
The suitable planting time is generally from late August (End of Heat) to late September (Autumn Equinox); for planting density, generally for ornamental use 80 cm x 70 cm, planting about 1200 plants per mu, and for production use 60 cm x 50 cm, planting about 2200 plants per mu. When planting, the hole is generally about 35 cm deep and about 20 cm in diameter, and the seedling depth is such that the buds are 3 cm below the ground surface; finally fill the hole with soil, firm it and pile up a 10 cm mound of soil to protect against cold and preserve soil moisture and to serve as a marker. After planting, depending on soil moisture, water appropriately for overwintering.
3. Field management:
(1) Cultivation and weeding: the following spring, before the peonies sprout, level the soil mounds from the previous autumn; during the growing period, keep the soil loose and free of weeds, hoeing after rain and hoeing in long drought.
(2) Removing side buds: besides the bud borne at the top of the stem, the peony also bears 3-6 side buds in the leaf axils of the upper stem. Removing the side buds early can concentrate nutrients so that the main bud's flower is large and full; if the side buds are kept, the flowers are abundant and the ornamental period is long. This can be decided as needed.
(3) Watering and topdressing: the peony has fleshy roots and a developed root system and strong drought resistance, so it generally does not need watering; if there is a spring drought or a fairly long summer drought, water once or twice, preferably with uncontaminated river water; in winter, depending on whether the soil is dry or wet, one overwintering watering can also be given. Peonies grow vigorously and have a high fertilizer demand; fertilizer can be applied twice a year. Before winter begins, apply some slow-release fertilizer, such as rotted cake fertilizer (150 kg/mu) or dried night soil (1500 kg/mu); before or after flowering, apply some quick-acting fertilizer, such as compound fertilizer or diammonium (10-15 kg/mu); foliar topdressing can also be combined with this, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate or trace-element fertilizer, sprayed once every 15-20 days.
4. Pest and disease control:
(1) Diseases: mainly leaf spot, including red spot and brown spot; the peak generally occurs in the summer and autumn seasons of high temperature and high humidity. In the early stage of disease, spray the leaf surface with 40% carbendazim at 800 times dilution for control; in severe cases use 40% carbendazim at 500 times dilution sprayed once every 15 days, and 2-3 times is enough for control.
(2) Insect pests: mainly white grubs and nematodes. For white grubs, during the peak period in July to August, use 30% carbofuran (5 kg/mu) or 50% phoxim granules (3 kg/mu) or isofenphos-methyl liquid, mix with organic fertilizer or sandy soil into poisoned bait, spread it evenly, and then deep-hoe. Nematodes are root-knot nematodes, highly contagious and fairly serious in damage to peonies; the symptoms are nodules of various sizes on the fibrous roots, weak plant growth, and yellowing, scorching and early dropping of the leaf margins, and in severe cases the plant becomes short until it dies. For control, use 30% carbofuran granules at 25 g/sq m, apply evenly to the affected plot during the rainy summer period, then deep-hoe 5-10 cm. Because root-knot nematodes are aerobic lower animals, mainly living in the soil layer within 5-20 cm, when applying the pesticide it must never be too deep.
12. Chrysanthemum
The chrysanthemum is a short-day plant; in the long-day seasons of spring and summer it can only carry out vegetative growth. After the Beginning of Autumn, as the weather turns cooler and the daylight hours shorten, it can begin flower bud differentiation, bear buds, and bloom with brilliant flowers through the frost.
The chrysanthemum has strong adaptability and is not strict about climate and soil conditions; it is cultivated everywhere in our country, and can grow in slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soil. Small chrysanthemums have stronger cold resistance than large ones, and their flowers do not wither after several hard frosts. At temperatures above 10°C the dormant buds can sprout, and 20 to 25°C is the most suitable temperature for growth. Chrysanthemums tolerate drought and fear waterlogging, and like loose, fertile sandy soil rich in humus, a cool climate and plenty of sunlight.
Chrysanthemums can be propagated by many methods such as division, cutting, grafting and sowing. The grafting and sowing methods have high technical requirements and fairly cumbersome propagation processes; without superb cutting and grafting skills and techniques such as selection of fine varieties and artificial pollination, it is very difficult to propagate successfully. These two propagation methods are also used only when large numbers of seedlings are needed, in a nursery; for growing chrysanthemums at home, division and cutting are generally used for propagation.
1. Seed propagation: before sowing, apply plenty of rotted organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, deep-dig and harrow finely, and make flat beds. Mix the seeds evenly with fine sand and broadcast them, cover with fine soil about 0.5 cm thick, and after sowing cover with a shade net and water thoroughly. In early spring when it is cold, overcast and rainy, cover with plastic film to maintain soil moisture and temperature. Water with a fine spray to prevent the soil surface from crusting. After about 10 days the seedlings emerge; remove the shade net or plastic film, and when the seedlings have 2-3 leaves they can be transplanted to the field. Chrysanthemum greens can be sown directly; in southern China they can be sown in February, and in the cold northern regions only in early April, with a sowing rate of about 0.2 kg per mu.
2. Division propagation: in mid-to-late March, dig out the old chrysanthemum greens, expose the root crown, cut off the lateral buds that already have roots together with the old roots, and transplant them to the field. Division propagation is more suitable when new shoots are sprouting.
3. Cutting propagation: cutting propagation can be carried out throughout the growing season, with the survival rate highest for cuttings taken from April to June. The seedbed is best made with new soil mixed with composted rotted organic fertilizer. Cut branches with 3-5 nodes and 8-10 cm long, remove the basal leaves, and insert to a depth of 1/3-1/2 of the cutting length. After inserting, keep the bed moist and avoid waterlogging; in the hot season shade is needed, and when the temperature is lower a plastic film arch tunnel can be built to keep warm and retain moisture. Generally after 15 days they can be transplanted to the field.
Some people may like chrysanthemums in a vase, so here are a few tips for everyone:
1. Before putting chrysanthemums in a vase, first cut off the flower leaves on the lower part of the stem that might be submerged in water. Because chrysanthemums have a fairly long flowering period, up to 2-3 weeks, while the flower leaves quickly turn yellow; the flower leaves submerged in water will compete with the flowers for nutrients and may also breed bacteria.
2. To make the chrysanthemum flowering period long, not only should the water be changed every day, but each time the water is changed, cut off 1 inch of the stem base submerged in water, so as to always keep the water-absorbing channels unobstructed.
3. Chrysanthemums in a vase likewise need a certain amount of nutrients. The simplest method is to put a vitamin tablet into the water, or add 1 teaspoon of white sugar. However, organic nutrients (such as white sugar) will provide a great possibility for bacterial reproduction, so at the same time 1-2 drops of bleach liquid or a little bleaching powder can be put into the water to effectively control bacterial reproduction (the dose of bleaching powder should be increased or decreased as appropriate according to the amount of water, the number of flowers and the purity of the bleaching powder).
13. Wax begonia
Wax begonia, also known as glass emerald and glass begonia, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Begonia in the Begoniaceae family. It likes well-drained sandy loam rich in humus, is not cold-hardy, and should be protected from scorching sun and rain. The simple leaves are alternate, ovate to long-ovate, with leaf colors including green and dark red. The flower colors include bright red, pink and white, and it blooms in all four seasons.
Sowing can be done in all four seasons; first press the potting soil firm and soak it through. Because the seeds are tiny, mix them with fine sand, scatter them evenly, and cover lightly with fine sand or not at all. Cover with a glass plate or film to retain moisture, and they will germinate very quickly. When the seedlings grow to 2 to 3 leaves, move them into pots, and at this time apply dilute liquid fertilizer. When they grow to 4 to 6 cm tall, plant them out for normal management.
For cutting propagation, take cuttings 7 to 10 cm long, dry them in the shade for 1 to 2 hours, keep half a leaf, and insert them into sandy soil. Keep the potting soil moist, and they will root very quickly; this can be done in all four seasons.
Cultivation management: the potting soil should be well-drained sandy loam rich in humus. During the growing period, moderate moisture is required, and apply composted dilute liquid fertilizer once every 1 to 2 weeks. Wax begonia likes light but should be protected from direct sunlight; too strong light easily makes the leaves curl and develop scorched spots, while insufficient light makes the plants grow spindly and affects flowering. The optimum growth temperature is 20°C, and the minimum temperature is 10°C; lower than that and it is easily damaged by cold. In the hot summer season it is in a semi-dormant state, and should be placed in a well-ventilated shady spot, and fertilizing should stop at this time. To make the plant shape full, pinch out the growing tips several times during the growing period, and at the same time apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. After wax begonia has been grown for 1 to 2 years it shows signs of aging; it can be cut back heavily from the base to stimulate new shoots, and after pinching treatment it can recover its former luxuriant appearance. Change the pot once a year, removing old roots and necrotic roots.
14. Fuchsia
Fuchsia, also known as hanging-bell begonia and lantern begonia, is in the genus Fuchsia of the Onagraceae family, an evergreen subshrub. The flowers are borne singly in the leaf axils at the ends of the branches, with a long stalk; the calyx tube is bell-shaped or tubular, and often droops downward. The flower colors include pink, purple-red, apricot yellow and white, and it blooms in all four seasons, most abundantly in spring and autumn. There are many fuchsia varieties, with plant shapes and flower forms varying greatly.
Fuchsia is native to South America and likes a mild, cool and humid environment, with its optimum growth temperature being 10°C-15°C. In summer it fears strong direct sunlight and high temperatures; in winter it fears cold below 5°C. No wonder it is called the "delicate lady among flowers". Its requirements for fertilizer and water differ with the season: in spring and autumn the demand is fairly large; in the hot summer season fuchsia is in a semi-dormant state, and watering must be controlled to avoid root rot and death. Measures such as ventilation and cooling should be taken, the leaves should be misted frequently, and the plant should be placed under a shade frame to ensure it safely passes the summer. After the autumn cools it revives; strengthen fertilizer and water management, pinch and shape it in good time, and promote lateral branches. Generally it can bloom two or three weeks after pinching, so pinching is also often used to control the flowering period. The potting soil should preferably be fertile, loose, well-drained sandy loam; it can tolerate weak alkalinity.
Fuchsia sets seed with difficulty after flowering, so cutting propagation is usually used, and it can be done all year round, but spring is preferable. One-year-old young branches root most easily; choose robust, plump top branches with three or four nodes, 5 cm-10 cm long, keep the upper 3 small leaves, and insert them into sandy soil to the depth of one node; keep the temperature at 15°C-20°C; mist once a day to maintain air humidity, and they will root after two weeks. Pot the young plants promptly in potting mix, and pinch them promptly to promote lateral branches. Old plants are repotted every spring, heavily pruned in combination with propagation, and the old roots around them cut away to rejuvenate the plant. Spring cutting has an advantage, namely that the young seedlings have fairly strong heat resistance and mostly do not lose their leaves in the dog days. Cuttings taken before the dog days bloom after autumn, hence the saying "raise the young, not the old". If the plant loses its leaves in summer, it should generally be cut back immediately after the Beginning of Autumn to promote new branches; topdress with liquid fertilizer, and it can bloom in autumn.
15. Clivia
Clivia has strong vitality and is easy to cultivate, but to grow it well, the correct cultivation method is indispensable. For a good clivia, cultivation skill and the plant itself can be split 30-70, which shows the importance of cultivation techniques. Only by understanding the growth habits of clivia can one explore and sum up the correct cultivation techniques, so that growing clivia is easy and gets twice the result with half the effort, and the clivia grown will be pleasing to the eye. The growth of clivia is greatly affected by water, soil, fertilizer, light, temperature and humidity factors. Here are some views on these six aspects:
1. Water: as is well known, plant growth cannot be separated from water; the absorption of nutrients and all physiological activities must depend on water, but different plants have different requirements for water, and the water quality also differs from place to place. Clivia's requirements for water are as follows:
The pH of the water: clivia likes neutral or slightly acidic water, with a pH of about 6.5. The water quality's pH differs from place to place; if it is not neutral or slightly acidic water, improving it should be considered. For example, alkaline water can be neutralized with rice-washing water.
Water quality: tap water, river water, lake water and so on differ from one another in water quality; clean water rich in minerals is best. Tap water has been treated with artificially added chemicals, so it should usually be stored for a few days before being used to water flowers.
Water content in the soil: the suitable water content should be 20%-40%, preferably neither dry nor wet. If the water content in the soil is too high for a long time, the air permeability in the soil will worsen, easily causing root rot; conversely, if the water content is too low, it will dehydrate the plant, causing the roots to shrivel and wither.
Watering method: the principle of watering is not to water when not dry, and to water thoroughly when watering. The practice of watering a little at a time, like a dragonfly skimming the water, is extremely harmful. The dryness mentioned here does not mean dry to the point of no water, but that the water content in the soil has become fairly low, which is the time to water. People who grow clivia often tap the flower pot with their fingers and judge the water content in the soil by the sound of the tap. A dull sound from the tap indicates that the water content in the soil is fairly high and there is no need to water; conversely, a crisp sound indicates that the water content in the soil is fairly low and watering is needed at once. The reason the dragonfly-skimming practice is extremely harmful is that most of the small amount of water is absorbed by the soil or flows away directly along the channels formed in the soil, and very little is absorbed by the root system, almost equivalent to not watering at all.;
In addition, when watering, note that the water temperature and soil temperature should be close, and the temperature difference between the two should not be too large; the watering time is preferably in the morning and evening; at noon in summer the temperature is very high, so watering is not suitable; watering should avoid the heart of the plant, especially during the period when the scape is emerging and flowering, to prevent unclean water from causing heart rot.
2. Soil: the roots of clivia are fleshy roots, suitable for growing in soil that is loose, fertile, water-permeable and well aerated, so the choice of cultivation soil should strictly take these four factors into account.
Soil quality: humus soil meets the above four requirements and is the first choice for growing clivia. The humus soil is best made of oak leaves (oak tree leaves); leaves of other trees such as larch, hazel, pear and apple can also be used, but attention must be paid to the pesticide factor. Walnut tree leaves are toxic and cannot be used. High-quality humus soil should be moderately rotted tree leaves, with a rotting degree of about 50%; too high a rotting degree is not good, as water permeability and aeration are poor.
To further improve the structure of the humus soil and increase water permeability and aeration, some larch pine needles, carbon from burned rice husks (not ash), washed river sand and furnace cinder can also be added, at a proportion of 10%-20%. Compacted, barren ordinary soil is not suitable for growing clivia and will seriously affect the normal growth of clivia.
In addition, the soil pH differs from region to region; neutral or slightly acidic soil should be chosen, with a pH of 6.5-7.
3. Fertilizer: as the saying goes, "For a crop to flower, it all depends on fertilizer as the master." Fertilizer is an indispensable important nutrient source for the vigorous growth of clivia; clivia is a flower that likes fertilizer, and mature clivia must have ample fertility.
Fertilizing clivia should be determined according to the size, variety, growth and development condition and season of the clivia. Applying too much or too little fertilizer is not conducive to the growth of clivia. Too much will cause root burn, and the leaves will pucker or become stunted; too little means a lack of nutrients, and the clivia grows slowly, with the leaves obviously becoming narrower, soft and not upright.
Types and uses of fertilizer: fertilizer is divided into solid fertilizer and liquid fertilizer.
Solid fertilizer: castor seeds, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, perilla seeds and the like, fried and then mixed with a small amount of bone meal, make a very good solid fertilizer. Solid fertilizer is usually used as base fertilizer (bottom fertilizer and waist fertilizer), applied twice a year (April to May in spring and September to October in autumn), but it must not touch the roots, to avoid causing root burn.
Liquid fertilizer: sesame, peanuts, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, freshwater fish (with the internal organs removed) and the like, after full fermentation, make a good liquid fertilizer. Liquid fertilizer is used as a supplementary fertilizer; its effect is quick but its fertility is short-lived, and it can be applied once every half month. Liquid fertilizer should be applied on the principle of low concentration and small amounts applied frequently, to prevent too much fertilizer from burning the roots. In spring and autumn, clivia grows vigorously, so liquid fertilizer should be applied to provide ample nutrients. When applying liquid fertilizer, prevent it from dripping onto the clivia leaves or the heart of the plant, to avoid leaf rot or heart rot; after each fertilizing, use a watering can to spray clean water to rinse the clivia leaves or heart.
What has been discussed above is all organic fertilizer; inorganic fertilizer can also be used, and its effect is faster. The growth of clivia stresses nutritional balance; it needs not only the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium we are familiar with, but also various trace elements. A serious deficiency of any one element will have a bad effect on the normal growth of clivia. This is also why people have mostly used organic fertilizer for a long time.
4. Light: light is an indispensable element for clivia's photosynthesis. It needs ample light; when growing clivia indoors it should be placed on a windowsill to ensure ample light. It is not tolerant of strong light and likes weak light (dappled light); in summer when the light is strong, shading treatment is needed to prevent scorching the leaves. Clivia leaves have strong phototropism; regularly adjust the direction toward the light so that the plant shape is neat, and if conditions permit, make the direction in which the leaves extend consistent with the north-south direction.
Clivia leaves should be kept clean; often wipe the dust off the leaves with a soft damp cloth, which is conducive to photosynthesis.
5. Temperature: the suitable temperature for clivia growth is 15°C-25°C, neither cold nor hot.
In summer above 25°C, measures such as ventilation and shading should be taken to cool it down; above 30°C and with low humidity, the leaves will lose their luster, and with high temperature and plenty of water the leaves will grow too long, and high temperature can even cause a high-fever disease, leading to the whole plant rotting away.
Below 10°C growth and development will be slow, below 5°C growth will be inhibited, and below 0°C the leaves will be frost-damaged or die.
6. Humidity: clivia likes a warm and humid environment; low environmental humidity will affect the luster of the leaves; dry air and wind and sun in the open field will make the leaves lose their delicate luster and become rough with dull color. People have found that clivia cultivated in a flower cellar is delicate, lush and glossy, while clivia grown on a windowsill cannot achieve this effect, and the reason lies precisely in this. The solution is to try to create a small environment similar to a flower cellar on the balcony.
To grow clivia well in summer, one should achieve "six preventions" and "six don'ts".
1. Prevent direct sunlight, don't expose to the scorching sun. In summer, clivia should be shielded from strong light all day. Using the slanting sunlight in the early morning to give it a little sun for a while each day is quite enough to satisfy photosynthesis.
2. Prevent high temperatures, don't let it dry out. The suitable temperature for clivia in summer is 18°C-25°C; it is best placed in an air-conditioned room, and a shaded, ventilated spot on the balcony is also fine. When watering, it is best to use tap water that has been sunned for two or three days; water once every day after 6 p.m., and do not let the potting soil become too dry or too wet.
3. Prevent leggy growth, don't fertilize. Summer is the dormant period of clivia, so stop fertilizing, water moderately, and controlling humidity is an effective measure. If too much fertilizer has been applied to the potting soil or the fertilizer effect is fairly strong, pour out the upper part of the soil in the pot, mix in 1/3-2/3 sand, mix well and put it back in the pot; this not only reduces the fertilizer effect but also has a cooling effect.
4. Prevent dust pollution, don't water with dirty water. The leaf surface of clivia should be kept clean; once a week dip a fine gauze in clean water, wring it dry and gently wipe it once. Watering with dirty water will cause the roots and leaves to rot and turn yellow.
5. Prevent soil compaction, don't use clay (loess) in the pot. Clivia is suited to cultivation in loose, aerated, water-permeable, fertile humus soil with a pH of about 7.0.
6. Prevent disease, don't let it get infected. When changing the soil or wiping the leaves, the movements should be gentle, to prevent wounds on the roots and leaves that leak sap and trigger infection and cause rot.
16. Cyclamen
The cyclamen is native to the coastal low-mountain forest zones of the southeastern Mediterranean coast, from Israel and Jordan to Greece. It is now widely cultivated throughout the world. The cyclamen prefers a cool, moist environment with ample light. The optimum growing temperature is 15-20°C; below 10°C, growth weakens, flower color fades, and the flowers wither easily; when the temperature reaches above 30°C, the plant enters dormancy. In the hot summer regions of our country, cyclamens are then in a dormant or semi-dormant state; whereas in the Kunming area of Yunnan Province, where it is like spring all year round, the summer is cool and moist, so the plant does not go dormant and continues to grow normally. When the temperature exceeds 35°C, the plant is very easily damaged and rots to death. During the seedling stage, it has relatively strong resistance to high temperatures. During the growing period, the relative humidity should preferably be 70%-75%. The cyclamen is neutral to day length, and temperature is the main environmental factor affecting flower bud differentiation. The optimum temperature for flower bud differentiation is 15-18°C. During the growing period, the required light intensity is 28,000-36,000 Lx; if it is higher than 45,000 Lx or lower than 15,000 Lx, the photosynthetic intensity decreases markedly. However, it also cannot tolerate strong summer sunlight exposure and should be cultivated under a shade frame. It often self-pollinates, and cross-pollination is also possible. It has relatively strong resistance to sulfur dioxide and is suitable for indoor greening in factory areas.
I. Key points for potted cyclamen propagation and cultivation: cultivation techniques
Propagation is mostly by sowing. Sowing in September results in flowering in the winter of the following year. The method of cutting the tuber can also be used for propagation, but it is prone to rotting, so it is mostly not adopted. The key to cultivation is that during the summer dormancy period, a cool but not overly wet environment should be maintained. Tubers 2-3 years old have the strongest growth, so old tubers are often discarded. Repot once a year.
II. Propagation and cultivation care of cyclamen
1. Sowing. Cyclamen tubers cannot naturally divide into small tubers, so propagation is generally by sowing. However, cyclamen virus damage is serious, and seeds often have a relatively high virus infection rate. If the virus infection rate is >20%, then before sowing, the seeds must be virus-eliminated. The method is: soak the seeds in 0.1% mercuric chloride for 1-2 minutes, then rinse clean with water; then soak in 10% sodium phosphate solution for 10-20 minutes and rinse clean; finally soak in a 35-40°C colloidal solution and treat for 48 hours, rinse clean with water, and then sow. Determine the sowing date according to the desired flowering time. Generally sow 13 months before the desired flowering time; even early-flowering varieties require 8-10 months. To supply flowers for Christmas, New Year's Day, and Spring Festival, sowing is usually done in September-October.
Cyclamen germination is slow, emergence is uneven, and the germination rate is about 85%-95%. To hasten germination and make sprouting uniform, seed soaking for germination promotion can be done before sowing (virus-eliminated seeds sown immediately do not need germination promotion). Soak the seeds in cold water for 24 hours or in 30°C warm water for 2-3 hours, wash off the sticky material on the seed surface, wrap in a wet cloth for germination promotion, and treat at 25°C for 1-2 days. When the seeds show slight signs of sprouting, take them out and sow. For the sowing soil, equal parts vermiculite and fine cinder can be mixed; equal parts peat soil and vermiculite can be mixed; or equal parts loam, leaf mold, and river sand can be prepared. Sow in spots, with a spacing of 2 cm x 2 cm, and cover with 0.5 cm of soil. Use the pot immersion method to keep the pot soil moist, at 18-20°C, and germination occurs in 30-40 days. When the sown seedlings grow 1 true leaf, prick out the seedlings at a spacing of 3.5 cm x 3.5 cm, using soil prepared in a ratio of leaf mold 5, loam 3, and river sand 2. When planting, keep the top of the small tuber level with the soil surface, maintain moisture, place in a low-light area during the seedling recovery period, and after growth resumes, gradually increase light, strengthen ventilation, with the temperature preferably 15-18°C, apply additional fertilizer appropriately, and be careful not to let the fertilizer solution contaminate the leaves so as to avoid causing rot. When the seedlings have 3-5 leaves, plant them in pots.
2. Tuber division method. For excellent varieties of cyclamen that set fruit poorly, the tuber division method can be used for propagation. In late August, when the tuber is about to sprout, cut the tuber vertically from the top into several pieces, each piece needing to have a bud eye, coat the cut surface with plant ash or charcoal powder, let it dry slightly, and then plant it in a pot. Careful maintenance and management are required. This method has a low propagation coefficient, the tubers rot easily, management is difficult, flowering is sparse, the plant shape is not attractive, and the tuber exposed above the soil surface is not round and neat, so it is seldom used.
In recent years, various studies on the vegetative propagation of cyclamen have been carried out internationally. Successful methods include: 1. tuber tissue culture, cutting the tuber into pieces and culturing them under sterile conditions to form regenerated plants; 2. using leaf buds with part of the tuber tissue for cuttings; 3. in the original pot, cutting off the upper part of the tuber and then cutting it vertically to make it form regenerated seedlings, etc. The third method is mainly introduced below. The cyclamen tuber is formed by the abnormal thickening of the hypocotyl. After the upper part is cut off, adventitious buds can grow from the cut surface, thereby forming regenerated plants. By dividing 1 tuber, many regenerated individuals can be obtained. The procedure is: select a robust, plump, and fully developed tuber and divide it 1-2 months after flowering; the suitable period for division is May-June. First adjust the moisture of the pot soil, because if division is carried out under normal cultivation conditions, the wound will secrete a large amount of sap. This bleeding not only affects growth vigor, and especially hinders the formation of adventitious buds, but also easily leads to rot. Therefore, watering should be controlled to reduce soil moisture. When the leaf tips feel soft to the touch, this is the suitable time for division. First cut off the upper part of the tuber, with a thickness of about 1/3 of the tuber. Then make radial cuts (for tubers with a diameter below 4 cm) or checkerboard-like vertical cuts (for tubers with a diameter above 4 cm), with the depth not harming the root system. If checkerboard cutting is used, the incision spacing is 1 cm; a tuber with a diameter of 6 cm can be cut into 27 pieces.
Immediately after division, cover the flower pot with plastic film and carry out curing treatment at 30°C until the wound forms periderm, which takes about 12 days, then promote adventitious buds at 20°C. During this period (about 20-30 days), the key point of management is to maintain the soil moisture at the time of division. The pot can be weighed together at the time of division, and every 2-3 days the lost water can be replenished according to weight. Seventy to eighty days after division, each cut piece forms adventitious buds; lower the temperature to 15°C so that they gradually adapt to the environment. From the beginning of adventitious bud formation (about 35 days after division), gradually increase the water supply, and apply liquid fertilizer once a week. About 100 days after division, regenerated plants are basically formed, and they can be transplanted into pots. Usually they flower 11-14 months after division. This method is operated in the original cultivation pot, is simple and easy to carry out, and does not require complex techniques or equipment; the time to form regenerated plants is short; the regenerated individuals have consistent traits; and the regeneration rate is high. It is a vegetative propagation method with great application prospects. It can be used to multiply clonal lines of excellent varieties; in addition, it also has practical value in the production of first-generation hybrid (F1) seeds.
III. To meet the needs of flower supply at different times, the following methods are mainly used to control the flowering period:
1. Regulate the sowing period. By taking advantage of the seedling-stage plants' relatively strong tolerance to high temperatures and placing them in a cool, ventilated environment so that they do not go dormant in summer, the flowering period can be advanced. Sowing can be done from December to early summer, and flowering occurs in about 12 months. The sowing time can be determined according to the required flowering period.
2. Control environmental factors to delay or advance dormancy in the plants, or to break or prolong the dormancy of dormant tubers. For example, for flowering plants about to enter dormancy, applying additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, providing appropriate shading, and placing them in a cool, ventilated place at 25°C can allow them to continue flowering until June-July.
3. Use certain volatile chemical agents to break or promote the dormancy of the bulbs, thereby controlling the flowering period. For example, injecting aqueous solutions such as ether or camphor into the buds or fumigating with them can break dormancy. For example, in a sealed space of 1,000 cubic meters, place 0.5 cm of ether and treat for 24-48 hours; cyclamen tubers quickly break dormancy, resume growth, and flower earlier. For another example, placing a cloth ball soaked with ester solutions such as naphthaleneacetic acid ethyl ester or ethyl phenylcarbamate beside a cyclamen tuber about to sprout can keep the tuber from sprouting for several weeks, thereby delaying the flowering period.
IV. Prevention and control of cyclamen diseases and insect pests
1. Soft rot is caused by Bacterium
aroideae and occurs under high temperature and high humidity in summer. It damages leaf stalks and flower stalks, causing water-soaked softening; in dry weather the lesions dry up; in rainy weather they rot and smell foul. The pathogen overwinters in the soil. Control methods: first, the potting soil must be thoroughly disinfected; second, during high summer temperatures, control water, do not apply nitrogen fertilizer, do not let the plants be injured, maintain air circulation, and provide appropriate shading; third, promptly remove diseased leaves and burn them, and spray with Bordeaux mixture.
2. Anthracnose is caused by the pathogen Glomerella
rufomaculans. The lesions are tea-brown, round, and sunken; later the lesions enlarge and bear black conidia. The spores disperse and infect via water. Control methods: remove damaged leaves and leaf stalks and burn them; avoid wetting the leaves when watering; in the early stage of disease, spray with 50% carbendazim 500-600 times solution.
3. Nematode disease is caused by parasitism by Heterodera radicicola. A soil temperature of 25-30°C and soil moisture of about 40% favor nematode damage; they invade the roots and form root knots. Affected plants grow weakly, the lower leaves turn yellow, and the whole plant may even die. Control methods: disinfect the soil; burn affected plants; soaking in 50°C hot water for 10 minutes can kill nematodes.
4. Aphids cause leaves to curl, leaf stalks to bend, growth to be hindered, and flowers to fail to open. They can be controlled with dimethoate 1,500 times solution. Red spider mites are also seen causing damage; spray with trichlorfon 1,500 times solution for control.
17. Narcissus
In the cold winter months, the narcissus can, in a dish of clear water, unfold emerald-green leaves and produce plain, elegant, fragrant flowers. Decorating indoor tables with them brings people vitality and a feeling of spring.
According to An Introduction to Chinese Flowers: narcissus cultivation methods include soil culture, sand culture, water culture, and carved shaping. The cultivation requirements are not high; as long as the temperature is kept at about 15°C, there is sufficient sunlight, and water is diligently supplied and frequently changed, it can bloom after 25-30 days of growing. However, several points should be noted:
1. The temperature must not exceed 25°C, otherwise growth stops and the plant enters dormancy, causing the flower buds to turn yellow, shrivel, and dry up;
2. Sunlight must be sufficient, otherwise the leaves will grow like garlic leaves;
3. The water used must be clean, otherwise deterioration of the water causes pollution and root rot.
The growth of narcissus has a special characteristic: its flowering date can be decided by people themselves. If it is required to bloom during the Spring Festival, the bulb (narcissus head) can be planted in a pot about 20-300 days before the Spring Festival. After being put in the pot, it begins to grow until flowering. Several cultivation methods are introduced below:
Soil culture
The soil for soil culture should be loose leaf mold. Before planting, peel off the dried, withered bulb scales on the outside of the narcissus head and scrape off the old roots, and add leaf mold to 3 cm below the pot rim. Hold the pot with both hands and shake it to make the leaf mold compact, then place the narcissus bulb disc in the pot, continue adding soil for about 1 cm, then water thoroughly, and then place the flower pot in a cool place. After 5 days, when the bulb disc has grown roots, place the flower pot in a sunny place for growing. For watering in soil culture, pay attention to watering when dry and withholding when wet, that is, do not water if the soil is not dry, and once watering, water until water leaks from the bottom of the pot. Watering should be done in the morning and evening, otherwise it will damage root growth.
Sand culture
For sand culture, it is best to use washed clean fine sand, and the pot should also be a clay pot with good air permeability. Before planting, first put the sand into the pot to 3 cm below the pot rim, then place the narcissus head with old stem scales and old roots removed into the flower pot filled with fine sand, then add about 1 cm of sand so that the lower stem of the narcissus head is buried about 1 cm in the sand. Then water thoroughly and place in a cool place. After 5 days, place it in a sunny place until flowering. When planting narcissus heads in sand, water thoroughly every day; failure to water in time will cause water shortage and affect flower root growth. Watering should also be arranged in the morning and evening.
Water culture
Before water culture, also peel off the old stem scales and old roots cleanly, then place into the narcissus flower pot used for growing, add water to about 1 cm at the lower bulb of the narcissus head, place in a cool place, and after the bulb disc grows roots, place in a sunny place until flowering. For water culture of narcissus, it is best to change the water every day. On one hand, this prevents water deterioration and pollution from causing root rot; on the other hand, changing the water every day keeps the water clean and the roots grown white and beautiful.
Narcissus carving and shaping
In order to make the flowers and leaves grow in a graceful and varied form, the flower head needs to be carved. The specific method is: first peel off the dried, withered scales on the outside of the bulb and scrape off the old roots, then carve. When carving, first observe the growth trend of the buds, use the curved side as the carving surface, then use a small pointed knife to gently cut a horizontal line from left to right on the bulb 2 cm from the root disc, then cut one vertical line on each of the left and right sides, then peel off the scales within the range of the horizontal and vertical lines layer by layer, and at the same time dig out the scales between the buds until the leaves and pale yellow flower scapes are exposed; at this point the leaves can be curled. Next, shape the flower scape: use a small knife to scrape a line from top to bottom above the flower scape and below the flower bud, or use a needle to prick the flower scape several times from top to bottom; the growth of the flower scape will then become abnormal and likewise bend toward the wounded side. According to the requirements of different shapes, the degree and position of scraping are also different. The carved and shaped narcissus head should be promptly placed in water for soaking, with the wounded surface facing down, to remove the mucus secreted from the wound, changing the water every day. Soak for about 2-3 days; when the mucus has been cleaned away, take it out and cover the bulb disc (root disc) with absorbent cotton. Then place the carved surface facing up, put it into the narcissus pot, add water, and place in a cool place for growing. Change the water once a day to keep the water clean. When the bulb disc has grown to about 1 cm, place the narcissus pot in a sunny place for growing. Remember that during the growing process the temperature should not exceed 20°C, the water should be changed frequently, once a day, and water should be sprayed frequently, 1-2 times a day, with frequent sunlight. In this way, the cultivated flowers will be luxuriant, fragrant, and graceful in form.