How do you propagate Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema)? Cuttings have a high survival rate

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), a plant that is very easy to keep alive, has broad leaves and stays green year-round, and is often used to accent living rooms, studies and other places, with excellent ornamental value. But is one pot of Chinese evergreen too monotonous? It is time to propagate one yourself, so how do you propagate Chinese evergreen?

I. How to propagate Chinese evergreen: cuttings / division

As a common indoor potted plant, the growing method for Chinese evergreen can be said to be very simple, but if you want to propagate Chinese evergreen yourself, it is not so easy. Every plant has a propagation method that suits it, and for propagating Chinese evergreen, there are two common methods: cuttings and division, and among cuttings there is soil cutting and water cutting. Let's continue below for the specific steps.

II. The two propagation methods for Chinese evergreen

(1) Chinese evergreen cutting methods: soil cutting / water cutting

1. Soil cutting propagation

① Time: Chinese evergreen likes a warm environment, so its cuttings are generally taken in spring and autumn; cutting at this time gives a very high survival rate.

② Cuttings: From a healthy Chinese evergreen, cut off 7 to 10 cm of the stem tip as the cutting. Then remove the leaves from the rest to reduce water evaporation from photosynthesis, and be sure to coat the cut with plant ash for disinfection.

③ Cutting: Insert the treated cutting into a sand bed, place it in a semi-shaded spot with high air humidity, and keep the room temperature at 25-30°C. About 15-25 days after insertion it will root; wait until new shoots sprout on the stem section, then transplant it into a flower pot.

2. Water cutting propagation

① Water cutting time: For water propagation of Chinese evergreen, it is best to choose spring and autumn, because early spring and late autumn cannot reach the temperature required for rooting, in the hot summer season the cuttings are easily infected by microorganisms and rot, and in winter they are easily frostbitten.

② Water cuttings: From a 1-2 year old Chinese evergreen, select a strong branch about 1 cm in diameter, and be sure to keep the aerial roots on the stem nodes. After selecting the water cutting, disinfect the cut with potassium permanganate, then put it in a cool place to dry.

③ Starting water cutting: Insert the water cutting into a prepared transparent glass bottle, add an appropriate amount of water, with the depth at about 2/3 of the container. Keep the room at about 25°C and maintain relatively high air humidity; it will root after 20 days.

(2) Division propagation of Chinese evergreen

① Division time: When it comes to propagating Chinese evergreen, division is still the most commonly used. This method is generally carried out in spring, together with repotting.

② Division method: Take the Chinese evergreen out of the pot, cut apart the rhizome at the stem, and coat it with plant ash to prevent rot, then place it in a cool, ventilated place. After the cut dries, pot it and water thoroughly; after planting, do not water too much, and it can resume growth in about 10 days.

Overall, when propagating Chinese evergreen, whether by cuttings or division, both can survive, but the most suitable for home propagation is still cuttings. Of course, methods are fixed while people are flexible; everyone can choose a method to propagate according to the actual situation. That is all for the propagation methods of Chinese evergreen; I hope it can be of help to everyone.

Rohdea japonica (Japanese sacred lily) illustrated guide: how to grow Rohdea japonica / how to propagate Rohdea japonica

Rohdea japonica profile
Rohdea japonica
Growing methods and precautions for Rohdea japonica: an introduction to Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonica (scientific name: Rohdea japonica) is the only species in the genus Rohdea, a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant, also known as yun, qiannian yun, kaikoujian, jiujielian, dongbudiao, dongbudiaocao, tiebiandan, wumudu, baishacao, zhanshejian, etc. It is native to southern China and Japan, and is a very popular fine ornamental plant. It has a long history of cultivation in China, and its Chinese name "yun" means "a herbaceous plant that likes warmth".
Morphological characteristics of Rohdea japonica
Rhizome 1.5-2.5 cm thick. Leaves 3-6, thickly papery, oblong, lanceolate or oblanceolate, 15-50 cm long, 2.5-7 cm wide, apex acute, base slightly narrowed, green, longitudinal veins obviously raised; sheath leaves lanceolate, 5-12 cm long. Scape shorter than the leaves, 2.5-4 cm long; spike 3-4 cm long, 1.2-1.7 cm wide; with dozens of densely packed flowers; bracts ovate, membranous, shorter than the flowers, 2.5-6 mm long, 2-4 mm wide; perianth 4-5 mm long, 6 mm wide, pale yellow, lobes thick; anthers ovate, 1.4-1.5 mm long. Berry about 8 mm in diameter, red when ripe. Flowering period May-June, fruiting period September-November.
Produced in Shandong, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hubei, Hunan, Guangxi, Guizhou, Sichuan. Grows in damp places under forest or on grassland, at an altitude of 750-1700 m.
The whole plant has the effects of clearing heat and detoxifying, and dispersing blood stasis and relieving pain. It is often grown in pots for ornament in various places.
Perennial evergreen herb, without aboveground stem. Rhizome thick and short, yellow-white, with nodes, and most slender fibrous roots grow from the nodes. Leaves clustered from the rhizome, thick, lanceolate or band-shaped, 10-25 cm long, 2.5-5.5 cm wide, margins slightly folded inward, base gradually narrowed into a petiole-like shape, dark green above, light green below, with several straight parallel veins, the midrib relatively thick. [1] In spring and summer, a scape grows from the leaf cluster, 10-20 cm long; flowers numerous, clustered at the top and arranged in a short spike; perianth 6-lobed, pale greenish-white, ovate to triangular, apex pointed, base wide, lower part fused into a disc shape; stamens 6, sessile, anthers oblong; ovary spherical, style short, stigma 3-lobed. Berry spherical, orange-red; containing 1 seed.

Rohdea japonica variety classification: spotted dumbcane (Dieffenbachia)
[Alias] Dumbcane.
[Scientific name] Dieffenbachia maculata
[Family and genus] Araceae, Dieffenbachia.
[Morphology] Perennial evergreen herb. Stem thick and strong, mostly fleshy, plant height can reach 1 m. Leaves large and glossy, borne on the upper part of the stem, elliptic-ovate or broadly lanceolate, apex acuminate, entire, 20-50 cm long, 5-15 cm wide, both sides of the leaf dark green, set with dense, irregular spots, streaks and patches of white, milky white, pale yellow and other colors. Common horticultural varieties include Dieffenbachia 'Rudolph Roehrs', Dieffenbachia 'Camille', Dieffenbachia 'Tropic Snow', etc.
[Habits] Native to tropical America. Likes high temperature, high humidity, and semi-shade or shade environments. Not cold-tolerant, avoids direct strong light, and requires loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam.
[Propagation] Mainly by cuttings. In spring, April-May, cut off the small plants growing from the base of the plant, let the wound dry slightly, or dip the wound in plant ash, then insert into plain sandy soil, taking care to shade and keep moist; it can root and be potted in about 1 month.
[Cultivation] For potting, use 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, 1 part river sand plus a small amount of decomposed base fertilizer as the growing medium. During the growing season, to keep the pot soil moist, water more, preferring wet over dry, and at the same time supplement with spraying water on the leaves. In autumn, control water, alternating dry and wet; in winter, pay attention to keeping the pot soil dry. During the growing period, fertilize generally once a month, and usually prevent direct sunlight and provide shade. Repot once every spring. The wintering temperature in winter must not be lower than 10°C.
[Use] Potted ornament. Suitable for accenting living rooms and studies.
Decorative application: Small pots can be placed on a desk or windowsill for viewing. Medium pots are suitable for the living room, placed beside the sofa as decoration, which can fill the room with green vitality.
Light: Tolerates semi-shade, avoids excessively strong sunlight, but too dark light will also cause the leaves to fade.
Water: Likes moisture, and during the growing period from March to August it needs more watering. In summer, water frequently to increase environmental humidity.
Temperature: Likes high temperature, not cold-tolerant, suitable growth temperature 20-30°C. The minimum wintering temperature is above 12°C. Once frozen, the leaves turn yellow and wilt and the terminal bud dies.
Fertilizer: During the growing period, apply nitrogen fertilizer monthly to promote rapid growth; from March to August, apply fertilizer water once every two weeks. Reduce fertilization after autumn.
Soil: Requires loose, fertile, well-drained soil.
[Propagation]: Cutting propagation. Can be done in spring and summer. Take 10-15 cm long young shoots and insert them into a yellow sand medium; they will root in 20-30 days. Later, repot into new pots depending on plant size.
Ornithogalum caudatum (pregnant onion)
[Brief introduction] Ornithogalum caudatum is native to southern Africa. Likes sunlight, also tolerates semi-shade, and is cold-tolerant. In summer it fears direct sunlight and likes a moist environment. After heavy frost in winter, the leaf cluster still remains verdant. The bulb has the habit of summer dormancy, has strong multiplying ability, and a high propagation coefficient.
[Propagation] Commonly propagated by bulb division and sowing. For natural bulb division propagation, dig up the bulbs in August-September, grade them by size and plant them; after one planting, divide the bulbs again after several years when the bulbs become crowded. For sowing propagation, seedlings need 3-4 years of cultivation before they can bloom.
[Cultivation] Grows robustly and tolerates extensive management; fertilize once every half month, and the soil should be loose, moist and well-drained. After flowering, remove the residual flower stalks, and it will bloom more abundantly the next year. The bulb storage temperature is 25°C, and it needs dry, ventilated conditions.
[Pests and diseases] Among diseases, there is mosaic disease damage; the virus is transmitted by aphids and can be controlled by spraying with 2.5% derris extract at 800 times dilution.
[Application] Ornithogalum caudatum blooms from mid-April to early May; the flowers are white, orange and double-flowered types. In spring, the star-shaped white flowers flicker, elegant and simple; it is an excellent material for natural-style gardens and rock gardens, and is also suitable for cut flowers and potted ornament.
Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema)
Also called painted drop-tongue. Chinese evergreen is a perennial herb of Araceae, plant height 60-70 cm, stem upright and unbranched, internodes obvious.
Leaves alternate, petioles long, base enlarged into a sheath shape, leaves green, long lanceolate or ovate-lanceolate. Blooms in autumn, inflorescence axillary, shorter than the petiole.
Its leaves are broad and glossy, emerald green in all seasons, and especially shade-tolerant; it can be cut to make foliage bonsai or as a foil for flower arrangements to decorate the environment, and can also be used for potted plants to accent halls and rooms.
Chinese sacred lily (Rohdea japonica)
Chinese sacred lily (Rohdea japonica), known in both ancient and modern times, verdant as if about to drip and evergreen in all seasons, with orange-red large fruits that do not wither in winter, is regarded among the people as a symbol of good luck and happiness, and is widely cultivated in both north and south. In the north it is potted and can be placed indoors for ornament in all seasons.
Rohdea japonica is a perennial herbaceous flower of the genus Rohdea in Liliaceae. Underground it has a short, thick rhizome; leaves grow in a cluster from the top of the rhizome, band-shaped or oblanceolate; the scape is relatively short, emerging from the leaf cluster, with a terminal spike, small white flowers densely packed, berry spherical and orange-red, flowering period June to July. In the north, potted plants rarely bear fruit, and it is mainly grown for foliage.
The genus Rohdea is native to China, with only this one species; varieties include golden-edged Rohdea japonica, silver-edged Rohdea japonica, spotted Rohdea japonica, as well as large-leaf, fine-leaf and dwarf varieties. Also commonly cultivated is Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), also called bamboo-node Chinese evergreen, a perennial herbaceous flower of Araceae, produced from South China, Southwest China, India to Malaysia. It shares the name "wannianqing" with Rohdea japonica but belongs to a different family and genus. Its varieties include the four queens Gold, Silver, Jade and Beauty. The leaf colors are inlaid like gold and jade, brilliantly variegated, and all are among today's outstanding indoor ornamental flowers.
Rohdea japonica and Chinese evergreen are potted plants that require a culture soil rich in humus, loose and fertile, and slightly acidic; they like high temperature and high humidity, are not tolerant of severe cold, and wintering must not be below 5°C. They like shade and avoid direct strong light; in winter they can be placed in a sunny place, and in summer they should be shaded, and avoid being soaked by rain. Chinese sacred lily (Rohdea japonica) is mainly propagated by division. Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema) is mainly propagated by cuttings, preferably carried out in March or from September to October. Chinese evergreen can also have 8 cm long stem sections cut and soaked in clear water until roots grow, then planted, or grown in water in glassware to enjoy the leaves and roots, remaining unfaded for a long time. If you want the leaf color to be deep green, in spring and autumn you can apply a mixed solution of 0.2% urea and 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate once or twice.
Rohdea japonica and Chinese evergreen should have their soil changed by repotting once every two to three years in early spring; after repotting, place them in a warm, humid, shaded place, and frequently spray water on the leaves and the surrounding environment to keep them moist. In the Beijing area, after mid-May they can be placed outdoors under a shade shed, and brought indoors in early October, placed in a place with fresh air and no smoke or dust pollution.
Rhoeo discolor (Moses-in-the-cradle)
Rhoeo discolor alias: oyster plant, purple Rhoeo, purple brocade orchid, Commelinaceae
Rhoeo discolor is native to Mexico and the West Indies
It is an evergreen perennial herbaceous plant. Leaves lanceolate, green on the front with stripes of varying shades, purple-red on the back, also with stripes of varying shades of purple-red (see figure). Stems and leaves somewhat succulent. Flowering period August-October, sets seed easily. The small flowers are white; because the flowers grow inside two purple-red, mussel-shaped large bracts, resembling a mussel shell spitting out pearls, it is also called "mussel flower".
Its leaves each have different colors on the two sides, emerald and bright with variation, the plant shape is moderate, the posture graceful, and the red bracts contain many jade-white small flowers; the color contrast is obvious, peculiar and interesting, presenting the scene of a mussel shell spitting pearls, which is very rare and never tires the eye.
Rhoeo discolor likes a semi-shaded, moist environment, likes fertile, loose sandy loam, is relatively drought-tolerant, fears exposure to the sun, and is afraid of cold; it stops growing at 10°C, so wintering above 10°C is best.
It has good shade tolerance and also a relatively strong ability to adapt to dry climates, thus becoming an excellent foliage plant for indoor cultivation in both north and south China. It can be placed for a long time in a bright living room; if the room is relatively dark, it is best to replace it about once every 20 days.
Its propagation is mainly by sowing; the tiny seeds can be sown as soon as collected, sprouting in half a month, and when the seedlings are 3-5 cm tall they can be transplanted. It can also be propagated by cuttings, carried out in spring and autumn; cut off the leafy top part and insert it into sandy soil, place it in a shaded place, do not overwater, and it will root in about 20 days; when new leaves grow, shift to normal management. The remaining old stems can also resprout new branches.
Zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia
Zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia is also called giant dumbcane and mute sugarcane; it is a perennial herbaceous plant of Araceae, with a cylindrical, fleshy stem often bearing white ring marks, which are traces left after the leaves fall off. The leaves of zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia are long elliptic, and on both sides of the green midrib the leaf surface is scattered with irregular white or goose-yellow spots and stripes, appearing especially beautiful and elegant, like the stripes on a zebra, hence the name zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia.
Native to Colombia, it likes a hot and humid climate; the growing temperature should be controlled at 25°C to 30°C, and the winter room temperature should be kept at 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. Zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia is suitable for indoor cultivation; when cultivating, a water tray can be placed under the pot with water in it, so that moisture can continuously pass through the small holes in the bottom of the pot to keep the pot soil humid.
Common varieties include:
1. Golden-edged Rohdea japonica (var. marginata).
2. Silver-edged Rohdea japonica (Var. variegata).
There are also other varieties such as large-leaf, fine-leaf, dwarf, and those with yellow-white markings; Japan and Taiwan, China have more of them.

Distribution area of Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonica is native to China and Japan. It is widely distributed in China, found in East China, Central China and Southwest China, with main producing areas including Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hubei and other places.
Ecological habits of Rohdea japonica
It likes to grow in damp places under forest or in grassland.
It likes semi-shade, warmth, humidity and a well-ventilated environment; it is not drought-tolerant but slightly cold-tolerant; it avoids direct sunlight and waterlogging.
It can be cultivated in general garden soil, but the best is slightly acidic sandy loam rich in [2] humus, loose and with good water permeability.

Propagation methods of Rohdea japonica
Both sowing and division propagation are possible.
The berries of Rohdea japonica mature in December; after maturity they can be sown as soon as collected into pot soil mixed with equal parts fine sand and leaf mold. Cover the pot with glass or tie on plastic film to maintain pot soil humidity, temperature and light. If the temperature is controlled at 20°C, they will germinate in 20-30 days. When the seedlings grow to 3-4 leaves, they can be divided and potted.
(1) Division method: Division method: Rohdea japonica has strong sprouting ability from the underground stem; in spring and autumn, use a sharp knife to cut off the newly sprouted shoots at the rhizome together with part of the lateral roots, coat the wound with plant ash, plant into a pot, water slightly, place in a shaded place, and after 1-2 days water thoroughly. Alternatively, pour the whole plant out of the pot, and depending on plant size, use a sharp tool to divide it into several parts; after the wounds dry for a day or are coated with plant ash, pot them and manage as described above.
(2) Sowing method: Sowing is generally carried out in March-April. Sow into a flower pot filled with culture soil, water, then temporarily place in a shaded place, keep moist, and under the condition of 25-30°C, they will germinate in about 25 days.

Cultivation techniques of Rohdea japonica: cultivation management
For potted Rohdea japonica, it is best to use sandy loam rich in humus as the culture soil. A soil pH of 6-6.5 for Rohdea japonica can fully bring out the soil nutrients and can effectively promote Rohdea japonica to bloom and bear fruit. Repot regularly once a year; when repotting, remove decayed dead leaves and rhizomes, and use an acidic soil with potassium fertilizer as the growing soil. After planting, place Rohdea japonica in a cool place for a few days so it can recover its vitality.
Cultivation method of Rohdea japonica: keep it warm, moist and semi-shaded. In summer, when growth is vigorous, it needs to be placed in a shaded place to avoid strong light; otherwise, it easily causes dry leaf tips and scorched edges, affecting the ornamental effect. Therefore, after being taken outside in early spring, it should be placed under a shaded trellis or under the eaves or in a shaded place on a balcony. Rohdea japonica is a plant with fleshy roots, and waterlogging easily causes damage; too much watering easily causes root rot. But the air must be kept humid; if the air is dry, adverse phenomena such as dry leaf tips also easily occur. In summer, water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flower pot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Also be careful to prevent heavy rain from drenching it; especially during the flowering period it must not be rained on, and it should be placed in a shaded, dry, ventilated place free from rain.
During the growing period, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once about every 20 days; in early summer, when growth is relatively vigorous, apply Rohdea japonica liquid fertilizer once about every 10 days as a top dressing, and a small amount of 0.5% ammonium sulfate can be added to the top dressing, so as to promote better growth, with deep green and glossy leaf color. In the vigorous flowering period of June-July, apply a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution once about every 15 days to promote flower bud differentiation and facilitate better flowering and fruiting (around the Start of Summer, several old leaves on the outer part of the mature plant should be cut off to facilitate the sprouting of new shoots, new leaves, and the emergence of scapes).
In winter, Rohdea japonica needs to be moved indoors to overwinter, placed in a sunny, well-ventilated place, with the temperature kept at 6-18°C. If the room temperature is too high, it easily causes the leaves to grow leggy and consume a large amount of nutrients, so that growth is weakened the next year, affecting normal flowering and fruiting. If in winter Rohdea japonica shows yellow and scorched leaf tips, or even the whole plant withers, it is mainly because the roots cannot absorb water, affecting growth. Therefore, in winter the air must also be kept humid and the pot soil slightly moist; generally watering 1-2 times a week is suitable. In addition, the leaves also need to be sprayed and washed with warm water once a week to prevent the leaves from being polluted by smoke and dust, so as to keep the stems and leaves fresh green and verdant in all seasons.
Key points of cultivation
The planting environment should be kept warm, moist and semi-shaded. In summer, it is best to place it indoors about 80 cm from a south-facing windowsill or outdoors in a shaded place, avoiding direct strong sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched. Besides sufficient watering, water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flower pot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Pay attention to water control. After moving indoors in winter, the room temperature must not be lower than 12°C. If the room temperature is too low, it easily causes the plant to suffer cold, drop leaves and die.
Precautions
1. Planting: Plant in spring or repot and change soil. It has no strict requirements for soil, but fears waterlogging; when planted in the ground or in pots, avoid hard clay and alkaline soil. For potting, generally use a mixed soil of leaf mold plus sand. In the south it can be potted or grown in the open field; in the north it needs greenhouse cultivation. Change the soil once a year, repot once every 2 years, and add new fertile soil.
2. Light and temperature: Rohdea japonica likes a semi-shaded environment and fears direct sun in summer. For greenhouse cultivation, in spring, summer and autumn, shading should be more than 60%, and in winter 40%. Too strong light easily causes sunscald, and too weak light makes it difficult to bloom and bear fruit. The suitable growth temperature is 15-18°C. In winter, when dormant, move it into the greenhouse and place it in a sunny place, keeping the temperature above 10°C, and the minimum temperature must not be lower than 5°C. In the Yangtze River basin it can overwinter in the open field; although the leaves may suffer frost damage, new leaves can still sprout again the next year.
3. Watering and fertilizing: During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once every 10-15 days. In summer, strengthen ventilation, prevent heat and lower temperature, and supply sufficient water, often keeping the pot soil moist and the surrounding air humid. In summer, water 1-2 times a day. In winter, reduce watering and stop fertilizing.
4. Shaping and pruning: To maintain a good plant shape and improve ornamental value, as the plant grows, the yellow leaves, residual leaves and some old leaves on the lower part of the plant should be pruned in time. For home pot culture, a soft cloth dipped in beer can be used to wipe the leaves, which not only removes dust but also adds nutrients to the leaves, making them bright green and clean.
Cultivation of Ornithogalum (eyebrow-brush Rohdea)
Depending on the growth cycle or plant form, the distribution differs, and the cultivation methods also vary somewhat. The bulbous bulbs grow on or in the ground, oval or spherical; the leaf flesh is thick, evergreen, alternately arranged on both sides from the base, with a beautiful gloss on the surface, tongue-shaped; the flowers bloom singly, with small pedicels, numerous stamens, and yellow anthers at the tips, because the Japanese think they look exactly like the brushes used by ancient Japanese ladies to brush off excess white powder stuck on their eyebrows, so they call it eyebrow-brush hair. The spherical red berries and seeds resemble those of clivia and are fleshy.
Eyebrow-brush Rohdea is strong in both heat tolerance and cold tolerance, with a minimum of about 5°C, but evergreen varieties are best kept above 8°C so that the leaves will have beautiful ornamental value. It is robust in character and free of pests and diseases, but attention should be paid to damage by red spider mites; if any are seen, a little insecticide can be sprayed.
Cultivation is quite easy; avoid direct strong light, and in summer place it in a ventilated half-day shade for cultivation. It can be placed indoors, but pay attention to sufficient light to prevent leggy leaves and affect growth. It has good drought tolerance and avoids high humidity; if the soil is too wet, it easily causes the bulb to rot. During the growing period, water thoroughly after the surface soil dries, and once a month apply Hyponex No. 2 or Hyponex liquid diluted and used as water; however, the closer it gets to the dormancy period, the more the frequency and amount of watering should be gradually reduced. During the dormancy period, watering can be stopped, but evergreen varieties can still be given a little water during dormancy to maintain the verdant leaves.
Repotting can be done at the end of the dormancy period or the early part of the growing period; summer-dormant types can be repotted around July, and winter-dormant types around April. Use well-drained soil; small-grain akadama soil and Taipudie culture soil can be mixed for use. When planting, let about half of the bulb be exposed above the ground, planting it shallowly in the pot.
Generally, it can be propagated by bulb division or sowing. The bulbs can be divided about once every 3-5 years, which is quite simple and easy. It can also be sown after the flowers fade, using the mature fleshy seeds inside the spherical berries; however, the germination rate of the seeds decreases with longer storage time, and they do not keep well, so they need to be sown as soon as possible. For eyebrow-brush Rohdea, from seed germination to blooming takes at least 3-4 years, truly a long wait!
Eyebrow-brush Rohdea is easy to cultivate and robust in character; usually its fresh green leaves can be enjoyed as a foliage plant, and when it blooms you can also admire the peculiar flowers. It is quite suitable for beginners growing succulents to cultivate.
Care knowledge: Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema)
An evergreen herbaceous plant of Araceae, genus Aglaonema, also called painted drop-tongue. Stem upright, 40 cm to 50 cm tall. Leaves ovate to ovate-lanceolate, base obtuse, apex acuminate. Inflorescence emerging from the lower sheath, spathe small, green.
Produced in Southwest China and South China; also distributed from India to Malaysia. It likes a warm, humid, sparsely shaded environment. For potting, a loose, fertile, humus-rich, well-drained slightly acidic soil is suitable. Not cold-tolerant; wintering temperature 5°C to 8°C. The leaf surface needs frequent spraying, and the pot soil should often be kept moist. Mainly propagated by cuttings, rooting very easily at 25°C, and can also be divided.
Chinese evergreen is very adaptable to indoor environments; it can be potted or placed in a bottle, and can keep growing without fading for a long time. Common famous varieties include: Aglaonema commutatum 'Treubii', with a short stem, branching at the base, ovate leaves with white spots and white veins. Aglaonema commutatum 'Maculatum', shrub-like, with irregular bright green or gray-white markings on the leaf surface. Aglaonema commutatum 'Pictum', with a white stem with green stripes and branching. The leaf surface has irregular yellow-brown markings, and the spathe is greenish-white. These three Aglaonema varieties are not cold-tolerant, and the suitable wintering temperature should not be lower than 18°C.
Spotted dumbcane (Dieffenbachia)
The leaves of spotted dumbcane have many irregular white or pale yellow spots, with vivid tones, and are green in all seasons.
[Water]: Likes moisture. Water more in summer, but avoid waterlogging, and frequently spray water on the leaves. Reduce watering in winter. Do not let it get rained on during the flowering period.
[Fertilizer]: Has low fertilizer requirements. Apply base fertilizer when repotting; generally no fertilization is needed.
[Soil]: Highly adaptable, but loose, well-aerated, slightly acidic loam is most suitable.
[Temperature]: In northern regions it needs indoor wintering; in the Jiangnan region it can overwinter in the open field, and above 5°C no frost damage will occur.
[Light]: Likes semi-shade and avoids exposure to the sun. Indoors it should be placed in a ventilated place and given indirect light.
[Propagation]: Division propagation. In early spring, divide the sprouting shoots and plant them together with the roots; survival is easy. Sowing is also possible, but generally not used. Division can be carried out together with repotting; generally repot once a year, divide the clustered plant into several clumps and cultivate them separately, and divide once every 3 years.
Rhoeo discolor (Moses-in-the-cradle)
Rhoeo discolor is also called purple brocade orchid; it is an evergreen perennial herb of Commelinaceae, with broad lanceolate leaves arranged in a ring on a short stem, the leaf surface smooth and dark green, and the leaf back dark purple; flowers axillary, the white flowers surrounded by two mussel-shell-like purple bracts, with white long hairs on the filaments. It is a common indoor foliage plant.
This plant is native to Mexico and the West Indies. It prefers a warm, humid climate and grows best at temperatures of 15-25°C. It likes light but also tolerates shade, fears harsh sunlight, and requires fertile soil with good water retention.
For potting soil for the oyster plant (Tradescantia spathacea), it is best to mix 2 parts pond mud with 1 part peat. Because it is highly adaptable and relatively easy to manage, aside from needing shade or a semi-shaded spot from May to October, it should be given ample light at all other times; watering should err on the side of moisture rather than dryness, but it should not be overly wet or waterlogged, otherwise the roots will rot over time; in dry weather, mist frequently to keep the growing environment at a high air humidity, and do not fertilize too much — 1-2 applications of cake fertilizer water is enough. In winter, place it indoors in a humid spot, keep it at around 6-10°C, and keep the soil slightly moist — do not let it get too wet.
The oyster plant is mostly propagated by division, and can also be propagated by cuttings or sowing. Division is usually carried out in spring when repotting, by cutting the dense mother plant apart at the gaps with a sharp knife. Cuttings can be taken during the growing season by cutting 7-10 cm from the stem tip, removing the lower leaves, sticking it into sand, and keeping it moist; roots will form in about 2 weeks. Sowing is often done in pots in April, and the seedlings grow quickly after emergence. When the seedlings reach about an inch tall, they should be transplanted promptly, and by autumn of that year they can grow into full, bushy plants.
Dieffenbachia seguine 'Rudolph Roehrs' (Zebra-Leaf Dieffenbachia)
The zebra-leaf dieffenbachia (Dieffenbachia seguine) is native to Colombia. It prefers a warm, humid climate, with an optimal growing temperature of 25°C to 30°C. In winter, the indoor temperature should also be maintained at around 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. A potting mix can be made from 7 parts leaf mold, 3 parts loam, and 1 part sand. The zebra-leaf dieffenbachia likes semi-shaded conditions and avoids direct sunlight, so it can be grown indoors year-round. It tolerates moisture, so a water tray can be placed under the pot, with water in the tray soaking continuously through the small holes in the bottom of the pot into the soil. In winter, watering should be restricted, and the lower the temperature, the more careful one should be to water less. In winter, some leaves may turn yellow and drop, but as long as the plant is not frozen, new leaves can grow again the following spring. If kept indoors over winter and the growth is weak with a tendency to become leggy, it can be placed outdoors in a semi-shaded spot for a period during the growing season, and moved back indoors once its vigor recovers. Fertilizing can be done during the growing season, depending on the plant's vigor, once or twice a month, mainly with decomposed liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer to promote lush green foliage, but nitrogen fertilizer should not be used too much.
Its "flower" is the spathe-and-spadix inflorescence typical of the Araceae family. It rarely or never sets seed, so it is difficult to propagate from seed. Propagation is basically vegetative, mainly by tissue culture and cuttings. Tissue culture propagation has a high success rate and low cost, but requires certain equipment and conditions. The cutting method involves cutting old stems into 10-15 cm sections in spring, inserting them diagonally into sandy soil, keeping them moist, and transplanting them into pots after they have rooted and grown leaves. Alternatively, during the peak growing season, the stem can be cut into small sections with one or two nodes, about 5-6 cm long, left to dry for a few days until the cut surface is dry, then planted directly into a pot and kept moist; they will quickly root and grow leaves. You can also cut a stem section with leaves and place it in a clear glass water bottle, fixing it in place with white pebbles used for architectural decoration, and in about half a month you can see it grow pure white, jade-like adventitious roots — this way you can enjoy both the leaves and the roots. Because its sap is toxic, care should be taken during handling not to let it touch the skin, mouth, or eyes. There are more than 30 species in the same genus as the zebra-leaf dieffenbachia, which also have some ornamental value, but this species is the largest, with thick, hard leaves, elegant and beautiful markings and gloss, a tall plant, and sturdy stems — an ideal indoor ornamental specimen.
Other Types
The key points of its cultivation are: warmth, humidity, and semi-shade. In summer, potted plants are best placed indoors about 80 cm from a south-facing windowsill, or outdoors in a shaded spot, avoiding direct strong sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched. In addition to watering adequately, water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flowerpot every morning and evening to help create a humid microclimate. During the growing period, do not water too much; when the surface of the potting soil turns pale, that is the right time to water. Apply liquid fertilizer once every half month.
In the north, after being brought indoors for winter, the room temperature must not be lower than 12°C. If the temperature is too low, it can easily cause cold damage, leaf drop, and death. In winter, rinse the leaf surface once a week with warm water to prevent the leaves from being soiled by smoke and dust, so as to keep the stems and leaves fresh and beautiful.
Management
For potting the lily-of-China (Rohdea japonica), it is best to use a sandy loam rich in humus as the growing medium. A soil pH of 6-6.5 is more conducive to fully utilizing the effectiveness of nutrients and is suitable for the plant to flower and fruit. Repot once a year in March-April or October-November. When repotting, remove the aged rhizomes and persistent dead leaves, and plant in a fertilized acidic growing medium. After potting, place it in a shaded spot for a few days. The key points of cultivating lily-of-China are: warmth, humidity, and semi-shade. In summer, when growth is vigorous, it needs to be placed in a shaded spot to avoid strong light, otherwise the leaf tips may dry out and the edges scorch, affecting the ornamental effect. Lily-of-China has fleshy roots and is most afraid of waterlogging, so it should not be watered too much, otherwise root rot is likely. Normally, just water the potting soil with an appropriate amount; do not water if the soil is not dry, and it is better to keep it on the dry side than too wet. Apart from keeping the potting soil moist in summer, watering in spring and autumn should not be too frequent. In summer, water should also be sprinkled on the ground around the flowerpot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Also be careful to protect it from heavy rain.[3]
During the growing period, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once about every 20 days; in early summer when growth is more vigorous, apply liquid fertilizer once about every 10 days, and a small amount of 0.5% ammonium sulfate can be added to the topdressing, which can promote better growth and make the leaves dark green and glossy. In the peak flowering months of June-July, apply a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution once about every 15 days to promote flower bud differentiation and better flowering and fruiting. During the flowering period, it must not be exposed to rain and should be placed in a shaded, dry, ventilated place away from rain.
In winter, lily-of-China needs to be moved indoors to overwinter, placed in a sunny, well-ventilated spot, with the temperature kept at 6-18°C, to prevent the room temperature from being too high and causing the plant to consume too many nutrients.
Fruiting
The fruit of lily-of-China is often difficult to set. How can it be made to bear fruit?
① Do not water too frequently; do not water if the potting soil is not dry. It is better to keep it on the dry side than too wet.
② During flowering, it must not be exposed to rain; place it in a cool, ventilated place away from rain.
③ Do not fertilize too much; applying winter fertilizer once a year is enough.
④ There needs to be an environment with snails to carry pollen.
If the above four points can be achieved, fruiting can generally be expected. It flowers in May-June and the fruit ripens in September-October. Under normal conditions, the fruit does not drop through the winter.
Leaves
Lily-of-China likes a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment, and avoids direct strong light in summer. The key to growing lily-of-China well is to avoid direct strong light in summer when the weather is hot and the sunlight is intense. Otherwise, the leaf tips are prone to drying out and the edges scorching, or even turning yellow and withering, affecting the ornamental effect.
Therefore, after being brought out in early spring, it should be placed under a shaded trellis or eaves or in a shaded spot on a balcony, and care should be taken to protect it from rain. Apart from keeping the potting soil moist in summer, watering in spring and autumn should not be too frequent, and watering should be controlled in winter. Lily-of-China has fleshy roots, so it is most afraid of waterlogging; if watered too much, the roots easily rot. But the air must be kept humid; if the air is dry, problems such as dry leaf tips are also likely to occur.
In spring and autumn, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 3-4 weeks, which can make the plant grow robustly and the leaves green. In addition, around the beginning of summer, several of the outer old leaves of mature plants should be cut off to encourage the sprouting of new shoots and new leaves and the emergence of flower stalks.
Cold Damage
When the winter temperature is below 5°C, the spotted dieffenbachia (Dieffenbachia picta) is highly susceptible to cold damage, and if not managed promptly, it can die. So what measures should be taken after cold damage occurs?
[Very slight cold damage]: The leaf surface loses its proper gloss, and the leaves droop as if dehydrated. At this point, the spotted dieffenbachia should be moved to a warmer place so that it gradually returns to normal. Note that the temperature must not rise suddenly after the damage, to avoid the leaves wilting.
[Mild cold damage]: Apart from drooping, the leaves develop cold-damage patches that look like scalding by boiling water. To handle this, cut off the cold-damaged patches on the leaves and move the plant to a warm place.
[Moderate cold damage]: Most of the leaves show cold-damage patches, and the petioles develop water-soaked patches and lose their green color. At this point, cut off both leaves and petioles, apply plant ash or coal ash to the wounds, then place in a warm spot, control watering appropriately, and let it slowly return to normal.
[Severe cold damage]: The young branches and new leaves lose their green color and show water-soaked patches, and the underground root system is damaged by cold and rots. The remedy is to promptly dig up the plant, cut off the underground parts, and cut away the damaged branches and stems, apply plant ash to the wounds, store in moist plain sand, and take cuttings in early spring. If severe cold damage occurs and the entire plant shows diseased spots, there is very little hope of saving it, and replacing the plant should be considered.

Pest and Disease Control for Lily-of-China
During the growing period, lily-of-China is susceptible to leaf spot, anthracnose, scale insects, brown soft scale, and other problems.
(1) Leaf spot. This disease occurs on the leaves of lily-of-China, and is likely to occur in humid weather. The lesion initially appears as a small brown spot, with a water-soaked, chlorotic margin, expanding in concentric rings, round to oval, with a brown edge and grayish-white center. Later, blackish-brown mold spots appear in the center of the lesion, becoming a blackish-brown mold layer under humid conditions. The control methods for this disease are to promptly remove diseased and dead leaves; both in the early and late stages of the disease, spray with 0.5%-1% Bordeaux mixture (or 50% carbendazim 1000x solution).
(2) Anthracnose. This disease also occurs on the leaves of lily-of-China, and in severe cases can spread to the petioles. The lesion initially appears as water-soaked small yellow spots, which after expanding become oval to irregular brown or yellowish-brown, slightly showing concentric rings; later the lesions merge into one another, becoming dry and withered, and producing small black dots arranged in concentric rings. This disease is mainly caused by poor ventilation, and the presence of scale insect damage favors its occurrence. The control methods are to strengthen cultivation and increase the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers; in the early stage of the disease, spray with 0.3%-0.5% equal-amount Bordeaux mixture (or 60% zineb 800-900x solution, or 70% thiophanate 1500x solution).
(3) Brown soft scale. This insect has complex feeding habits and can harm many plants, and lily-of-China is one of the affected flowers. When the brown soft scale harms plants, it generally gathers in groups on the leaf surface or on young leaves, piercing and sucking the plant sap, and at the same time excreting a sticky liquid; its excrement easily causes a large proliferation of sooty mold fungi, turning the stems and leaves black, affecting the plant's photosynthesis, causing weak growth and yellowing leaves, and hindering the ornamental effect. In severe cases, the branches and stems are covered with the insects, causing the plant to turn yellow and wither and affecting growth.
Control methods: ① If there are few affected plants or few insects, simply scrape off the insects with a bamboo strip or similar; ② During the nymph hatching period, spray with 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000x solution (or 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000x solution), and you can also spray with 5% phosmet emulsifiable concentrate 1000x solution to kill them.
[Distribution] Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and other places.
[Symptoms] In the early stage of the leaf disease, water-soaked small spots appear on the underside of the leaves. After 2-3 days, the lesions become slightly sunken, as small brown spots the size of a needle tip, round or irregular, and later gradually expand into dark brown or reddish-brown round or irregular lesions with a diameter of 1.5-3.0 mm. The lesions have slight concentric rings, with a chlorotic zone around the edge. Many spots can occur on a single leaf, especially on the older leaves at the lower part, where there are even more spots. The lesions expand and gradually merge together, and the veins and petioles also turn brown, causing most of the leaf to die; the stem symptom is called black rot, with the vascular bundles of the diseased stems and branches turning brown to black. At this point, the leaves on the stems wither, showing angular necrosis symptoms, after which bacteria infect the pith and cortex, leaving only a few leaf clusters at the branch tips, and the entire stem turns black, shrivels, and rots. When cuttings are affected, they cannot root, and slowly rot from the base upward, with the leaves withering and showing angular necrosis.
[Pathogen] The pathogen is a bacterium, Xanthomonas campestris pv. pelargonii of the class Eubacteria, order Eubacteriales, genus Xanthomonas, with a rounded, rod-shaped form and a single polar flagellum. The optimal temperature for growth and development is 25-27°C, the minimum is 1°C, and the lethal temperature is 51-51.5°C.
[Disease Development Pattern] The bacterium can be spread by cuttings, contact, and splashing water droplets, and seeds may carry the bacteria and spread them; the pathogen can survive in moist soil for 3 months; in greenhouse cultivation, when plants are too densely planted and grow rapidly, the disease is more severe, and the disease is more severe on the older leaves at the lower part of the plant, and more severe in warm, humid conditions; high nitrogen, high phosphorus, and low calcium favor the disease, while high potassium, low phosphorus, and high calcium suppress the symptoms. Different species and varieties of geranium differ in disease resistance: among geranium varieties, Pelargonium grandiflorum is highly resistant, Pelargonium graveolens is moderately resistant, and Pelargonium peltatum is highly susceptible. Some plants of the Geraniaceae family are asymptomatic carriers.
[Control Methods]
(1) Horticultural control: Ensure ventilation and light penetration between plants and avoid excessively high humidity; do not spray water directly on plants, to avoid spreading the disease through splashing water droplets; do not select cuttings from diseased plants; remove all diseased leaves and diseased branches, and avoid contaminating leaves with bacteria-carrying soil. Diseased soil should be handled in a centralized manner, and soil and flowerpots should be sterilized when necessary. The pathogen can survive in the soil of propagation beds, so avoid splashing diseased soil onto healthy plants. Spray 1% Bordeaux mixture once every 10-15 days for prevention.
(2) Chemical control: Spray agricultural streptomycin 1000 units, or try 14% copper ammonium complex 300x solution, or 50% xiaojunling 1000x solution.
(3) Thoroughly remove all diseased plants and diseased plant debris. Soak and disinfect flowerpots, planting benches, and tools with 10% bleaching powder solution, disinfect the soil with 2% formalin solution, or replace it with new soil. Use disease-free seedlings.
(4) Before and after the onset of the disease, spray 1% Bordeaux mixture or (500-1000) × 0.000001 agricultural streptomycin, several times in succession.

The Dietary or Medicinal Value of Lily-of-China
The medical information and health dietary information on Huhua.com are for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health issues should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and the treatment of any disease should follow a doctor's advice.
Ultimate flower-care mission: Love yourself, and start from reality, strictly following the doctor's advice. For illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope; face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and care for the flower field in your heart with your heart.
Medicinal Value
Lily-of-China is the plant Rohdea japonica of the genus Rohdea in the Liliaceae family, used medicinally as the rhizome or the whole plant. Lily-of-China is also known as Zhan She Jian, Dong Bu Diao Cao, Tie Bian Dan, and Jiu Jie Lian. Lily-of-China has the effects of clearing heat and detoxifying, strengthening the heart and promoting diuresis. Lily-of-China is used to prevent and treat diphtheria, myocarditis caused by diphtheria, sore throat, bacillary dysentery, and heart failure due to rheumatic heart disease.
Medicinal name: Lily-of-China
Aliases: Zhan She Jian, Dong Bu Diao Cao, Tie Bian Dan, Jiu Jie Lian.
Meridian entry: Bitter, slightly sweet, cold. Slightly toxic.
Efficacy: Clears heat and detoxifies, strengthens the heart and promotes diuresis.
Indications: Used to prevent and treat diphtheria, myocarditis caused by diphtheria, sore throat, bacillary dysentery, and heart failure due to rheumatic heart disease; for external use, treats traumatic injuries, venomous snake bites, burns and scalds, mastitis, and carbuncles and swelling toxins.
Usage and dosage: Rhizome 15-25 g; leaves 5-10 g; for external use, an appropriate amount, mashed to extract the juice and applied to the affected area, or mashed and applied to the affected area.
Source: Lily-of-China is the plant Rohdea japonica of the genus Rohdea in the Liliaceae family, used medicinally as the rhizome or the whole plant. The rhizome is dug up in autumn, washed, the fibrous roots removed, and used fresh or sliced and dried. The whole plant is used fresh and can be collected in all four seasons.
Source morphology: Perennial evergreen herb. Rhizome short and thick. Leaves basal, broadly strap-shaped, thickly leathery. In spring and summer, a dense spike forms on the scape, with the perianth united, globose-bell-shaped, with six lobes, not very distinct, fleshy, pale yellow or brown; six stamens; ovary globose, stigma three-lobed. Berry globose, orange-red when ripe. Produced in China and Japan; commonly cultivated in southwestern, central, and eastern parts of China.
The sap of lily-of-China is toxic, generally with the tissue fluid of the stem being the most toxic. Generally, if the sticky liquid gets on the hands or skin, it causes an allergic reaction, with patches or a very itchy sensation, and scratching without noticing makes it itch even more. Note that lily-of-China includes those of the genus Dieffenbachia and the genus Aglaonema, and the toxicity of these two varieties is different. If taken internally as a Chinese medicine, after an overdose, about 1 hour later symptoms appear such as nausea and vomiting, headache and dizziness, drooling and loss of appetite, blurred vision, and fatigue; in more severe cases, abdominal pain and diarrhea, a sense of pressure in the precordial region, numbness of the limbs, coldness of the extremities, pale skin, blurred vision, slow heartbeat, and decreased blood pressure; in severe cases, the patient becomes restless, has convulsions, coma, and dilated pupils, and various arrhythmias may occur, such as premature ventricular beats, atrioventricular block, atrial or ventricular tachycardia, atrioventricular dissociation, atrial fibrillation, or sinus bradycardia, sinoatrial block, and junctional rhythm, etc.
Rescue methods: For the rescue methods and precautions, refer to digitalis.
A potassium salt therapeutic diagnostic test can also be done, with 10% potassium chloride solution 15-25 ml added to 5% glucose solution 500 ml, and under close observation of the heart, administered by intravenous drip over 2 hours. If the arrhythmia improves, it indicates poisoning by cardiac glycoside-containing drugs.
In addition, Chinese herbal medicine antidotes are as follows:
1. Ginseng 9 g, Ophiopogon 9 g, Schisandra 6 g, decocted twice in water, combined, and taken in 2 divided doses.
2. Strong tea with an appropriate amount of white sugar, drunk frequently.
3. Licorice 15 g, mung bean 30 g, decocted in water and taken in 2 divided doses.
Toxicity
The sap of lily-of-China is toxic, generally with the tissue fluid of the stem being the most toxic. Generally, if the sticky liquid gets on the hands or skin, it causes an allergic reaction, with patches or a very itchy sensation, and scratching without noticing makes it itch even more. Note that lily-of-China includes those of the genus Dieffenbachia and the genus Aglaonema, and the toxicity of these two varieties is different. If taken internally as a Chinese medicine, after an overdose, about 1 hour later symptoms appear such as nausea and vomiting, headache and dizziness, drooling and loss of appetite, blurred vision, and fatigue; in more severe cases, abdominal pain and diarrhea, a sense of pressure in the precordial region, numbness of the limbs, coldness of the extremities, pale skin, blurred vision, slow heartbeat, and decreased blood pressure; in severe cases, the patient becomes restless, has convulsions, coma, and dilated pupils, and various arrhythmias may occur, such as premature ventricular beats, atrioventricular block, atrial or ventricular tachycardia, atrioventricular dissociation, atrial fibrillation, or sinus bradycardia, sinoatrial block, and junctional rhythm, etc.
Rescue methods: For the rescue methods and precautions, refer to digitalis.
A potassium salt therapeutic diagnostic test can also be done, with 10% potassium chloride solution 15-25 ml added to 5% glucose solution 500 ml, and under close observation of the heart, administered by intravenous drip over 2 hours. If the arrhythmia improves, it indicates poisoning by cardiac glycoside-containing drugs.
In addition, Chinese herbal medicine antidotes are as follows:
1. Ginseng 9 g, Ophiopogon 9 g, Schisandra 6 g, decocted twice in water, combined, and taken in 2 divided doses.
2. Licorice 15 g, mung bean 30 g, decocted in water and taken in 2 divided doses.
3. Strong tea with an appropriate amount of white sugar, drunk frequently.

Garden Uses of Lily-of-China
Because lily-of-China has broad, deep-green leaves and round, bright red berries, it is very beautiful, and has long been a flower valued for both its foliage and its fruit.
With elegant and beautiful leaf form, it is often placed on the long tables of studies and halls, or beneath long scrolls of calligraphy and painting, and in autumn and winter, paired with red berries, it adds even more color.
[Other Uses] The rhizome and leaves can be used medicinally; see below for details.
[Brief History of Cultivation and Culture] It has a long history of cultivation in China. Because its name and fruit color (red) are auspicious, it has been used through the ages as a symbol of wealth, good fortune, peace, and longevity, and is deeply loved by people.
The Qing dynasty work "Hua Jing" (Flower Mirror) records: "People use its flourishing or decline to divine good or ill fortune; when building a house or moving residence, when arranging a betrothal or managing a pond, when a child is first born, for all happy occasions it is always used."

The Flower Language of Lily-of-China
The flower language of lily-of-China: health, longevity
Lily-of-China is suitable for decorating living rooms and studies. Decorative applications: small potted young plants can be placed on a desk or windowsill for viewing. Medium-sized potted plants can be placed in the corner of a living room or beside a sofa as decoration, filling the room with natural vitality. It is known for its unique air-purifying ability: it can remove nicotine and formaldehyde. The higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the more it can exert its purifying ability!

The Cultural Background of Lily-of-China
1. "Hua Jing": Lily-of-China, also called yun. Broad leaves growing in clusters, deep green, not withering in winter or summer. Many households in the Wu region plant it, using its flourishing or decline to divine good or ill fortune. When building a house or moving residence, when arranging a betrothal or managing a tomb, when a child is first born, for all happy occasions, it is always used, as an auspicious phrase; as for marriage betrothal gifts, even if a live plant is not taken, people will surely cut and make silk fabric imitating its form to substitute for it. Together with auspicious grass, scallion, and pine, the four are arranged together in a pot, which is also a common custom. Planting method: during the spring and autumn equinoxes, divide and plant in pots, and place in a shaded spot. It is commonly said: the fourteenth of the fourth month is the birthday of the immortals; the old leaves should be trimmed off and thrown onto the main roads for people to tread on, so that the new leaves will surely grow abundantly. It likes to be banked with rich soil and watered with cold tea.
2. "Gang Mu Shi Yi": Zhejiang wedding ceremonies often use it to accompany gift boxes, taking its year-round evergreen quality, which has the meaning of eternal spring. {Note}: The medicinal lily-of-China also includes the related plant Rohdea japonica (Thunb.) Roth var. variegata Hort., which is mostly cultivated.
Film Connection
"Léon: The Professional", as a film dealing with dark and violent themes, has received both praise and controversy since its release. Yet amid the dark and violent subject matter and scenes, this pot of lily-of-China (Aglaonema 'Silver Queen') plays an important role in diluting the violence and making the visuals and even the content harmonious.
It is not hard to see that even as Léon wanders everywhere and lives on the run, he takes this Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' with him, and always likes to put it on the balcony after dawn and bring it back in after dusk. He regards the Silver Queen as his best friend, carefully watering it and wiping the dust off its leaves, which more subtly expresses the other, serious side of Léon as a killer — not lacking in love. And this better balances the two elements of violence and love.
At the end, the female protagonist Mathilda takes Léon's pot of Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' out of the pot and plants it in a place that looks warm and sunny, where people live in harmony. When Mathilda plants the flower, she does not shed tears, nor does she fully express the feeling of losing Léon. She just says to herself, toward Léon's potted plant: "I think we'll be okay here..." Accompanied by positive emotions, this once again pushes the film to a moving climax.

The Functions, Uses, and Feng Shui Role of Lily-of-China
Lily-of-China can remove harmful substances such as nicotine and formaldehyde. Growing lily-of-China creates a perfect living space for the home environment. From the perspective of feng shui, growing lily-of-China can keep people healthy and full of energy, keep them away from illness, injury, and disaster, and make the family happy and auspicious and the couple loving and harmonious. To make good use of the feng shui role of lily-of-China, note that placing it in the bedroom helps the owner establish a feng shui home and benefits the development of the couple's relationship. Generally speaking, people born in the Year of the Rabbit and the Year of the Tiger are suited to growing woody plants, and lily-of-China is the best choice.
Lily-of-China Pictures

Is the Oyster Plant Poisonous? Propagation and Cultivation Methods of the Oyster Plant

If you see a kind of lily-of-China with purple on the back, then you can be sure that what you are seeing is the oyster plant (Tradescantia spathacea). In terms of appearance, the oyster plant has high ornamental value, so many people grow it. It is said that the oyster plant is a toxic plant, and those who grow it always worry that its toxicity will affect their health. So is the oyster plant poisonous? And by what method is the oyster plant propagated? And what are the cultivation methods for the oyster plant?

Is the Oyster Plant Poisonous:

The sap of lily-of-China is toxic, generally with the tissue fluid of the stem being the most toxic. Generally, if the sticky liquid gets on the hands or skin, it causes an allergic reaction, with patches or a very itchy sensation, and scratching without noticing makes it itch even more.

Propagation Methods of the Oyster Plant:

Division: Usually carried out in spring when repotting, by cutting the dense mother plant apart at the gaps with a sharp knife.

Cuttings: Can be done during the growing season, by cutting 7-10 cm from the stem tip, removing the lower leaves, sticking it into sand, keeping it moist, and spraying with New High Lipid Film, greatly increasing the survival rate; roots will form in about 2 weeks.

Sowing: Often done in pots in April, and the seedlings grow quickly after emergence. When the seedlings reach about an inch tall, they should be transplanted promptly, and by autumn of that year they can grow into full, bushy plants. Spraying Zhuang Jing Ling during the growing period can make the plant stems thick and sturdy, the leaves thick and plump, the leaf color fresh and tender, and the plant luxuriant.

Cultivation Methods of the Oyster Plant:

Best propagation time: The oyster plant is best propagated in April; it generally blooms from late May to early June, after which the berries gradually turn red, and the fruiting period can last as long as 8 months.

Best growing soil: The oyster plant requires fertile soil with good water retention. The soil should be slightly moist — do not let it get too wet.

Growing humidity requirements: The oyster plant is relatively easy to manage; apart from needing shade or a semi-shaded spot, it should be given ample water at other times, and in dry weather it should be misted frequently to keep the growing environment at a high air humidity.

Best growing temperature: The oyster plant likes warmth, with an optimal growing temperature of 13-22°C, and in winter it must not go below 5°C.

Best growing light: The oyster plant likes light but also tolerates shade, and fears harsh sunlight.

The Price of the Oyster Plant:

[Zhongshan, Guangdong] Oyster plant, bagged seedling, plant height: 15-25, specification: five jin, price: 0.35

[Xinyang, Henan] Oyster plant, field seedling, plant height: 20-30, price: 0.5

[Zhongshan, Guangdong] Oyster plant, plant height: 12-25 , crown width: 15-20, price: 0.45(Prices are sourced from the internet and are for reference only)

The Effects and Functions of the Oyster Plant:

1. The Ornamental Role of the Oyster Plant

As mentioned in the introduction above, the oyster plant has very good ornamental value. This is determined by the tree form and flower form of the oyster plant. We love this kind of plant because we love things that represent vitality, and the oyster plant is a perfect representative, with the breath of nature, so it is especially favored by people.

2. The Decorative Role of the Oyster Plant

The oyster plant is suitable for decorating the living room; its shape is peculiar, making it most suitable for use as decoration. Of course, because of potting, the oyster plant is suitable for use as a potted plant in its young form, so it is often used to decorate a desk or windowsill, and is a very good decorative flower.

3. The Oyster Plant Can Purify the Air

The oyster plant can purify the air and absorb harmful gases, and it can also fill the whole room with vitality and restore vigorous life. Moreover, the air-purifying ability of the oyster plant is very strong, surpassing many plants, so in today's increasingly poor air quality, when people pay more attention to air purification, the oyster plant is a very good choice.

Obviously, the oyster plant is toxic, but fortunately its toxicity is very low. Generally, the rhizome sap of the oyster plant is the most toxic. It is recommended that those who grow the oyster plant do not easily touch its sap, to avoid the sap causing skin allergies, and even more importantly, prevent children at home from accidentally eating the rhizome of the oyster plant. There are many propagation methods for the oyster plant. If growing the oyster plant at home, the best methods are cuttings and division.