How to propagate the Easter lily cactus? Spring cuttings bloom in autumn
The Easter lily cactus (Echinopsis tubiflora), an exceptionally beautiful plant of the Asteraceae family, is deeply loved by flower enthusiasts for its unusual flower shape, rich colors and long flowering period. In daily life, many people want to grow Easter lily cacti, but rather than buying one to grow, it is better to plant it yourself, and this requires us to master the propagation methods of the Easter lily cactus. So how do you propagate the Easter lily cactus? Below, the editor will introduce it in detail.
1. How to propagate the Easter lily cactus: cuttings
As a beginner, knowing how to grow the Easter lily cactus is enough; but if you are experienced, besides knowing how to grow it, you should also master its propagation methods, which adds to the fun of growing it. As for how to propagate the Easter lily cactus, as far as the editor knows, the most common methods are cuttings and sowing. Next, the editor will focus on introducing the cutting propagation method of the Easter lily cactus.
2. The cutting propagation method of the Easter lily cactus
1. Cutting time
To take cuttings of the Easter lily cactus, you must first choose the right time. Although the Easter lily cactus can be propagated by cuttings all year round, the best time is early spring from March to May, followed by autumn from August to September; the survival rate of cuttings in other seasons is relatively low. The reason is that when the temperature is 15-25°C, the rooting speed of the cuttings can be increased.
2. Cutting substrate
You should also choose the cutting substrate for the Easter lily cactus carefully. Try to choose substrates with good air permeability and good water permeability, such as perlite, vermiculite, coconut coir, etc.
3. Choosing cuttings
In the cutting propagation of the Easter lily cactus, the most important step is choosing the cuttings; if chosen well, the whole propagation is basically half successful. From a potted Easter lily cactus, cut off healthy, thick, disease-free side branches as cuttings, with a length of 8-10 cm, and the branches need to have two leaves.
Cuttings treatment: after the cuttings are cut, place them in a cool, ventilated place to let the cut surface dry. If conditions permit, apply some rooting powder to the wound of the cutting to promote rapid rooting of the cutting branches and increase the rooting speed.
4. Starting the cuttings
With the above preparations done, the cutting propagation of the Easter lily cactus can officially begin: insert the treated cuttings into the prepared substrate, with an insertion depth of about 3 cm.
5. Care after cutting
After the Easter lily cactus cuttings are finished, keep the substrate moist, avoid strong light, and with proper care, they will root in 15-20 days. After the Easter lily cactus cuttings have rooted, as new buds emerge from the branches and leaves, the new Easter lily cactus plants can be transplanted into flower pots.
Overall, the Easter lily cactus is not only easy to grow but also relatively easy to propagate. As long as everyone follows the above method, even beginners can easily succeed in propagating the Easter lily cactus. That is all the editor has to say about the propagation methods of the Easter lily cactus, hoping it will be helpful to everyone.
Clever grape cuttings: fast growth and high yield
Flower Bonsai Network introduction: The editor of Flower Bonsai Network today introduces to everyone an article about clever grape cuttings: fast growth and high yield. Flower friends who like growing grapes, let's take a look below!
Grape is a fruit tree with high cultivation value. In the past, grape cultivation often used annual branch cuttings for propagation, but it took one or two years to harvest a small amount of berries. If a mixed long branch with one-year-old, two-year-old and three-year-old wood is used for cuttings, the results of fruiting in the same year, high yield in the second year and abundant yield in the third year can be achieved. This is a new way to develop grape production and increase income. The cutting time should be around September each year and around February of the following year. Select one grape branch with 1 m of one-year-old branch, 0.6 m of two-year-old branch and 0.4 m of three-year-old branch, with a total length of 2 m. Bury two-thirds of the total length, about 1.3 m, into a pre-dug deep ditch (hole). After filling with soil, leave 0.7 m of one-year-old branch above the ground, tie it to a bamboo pole, set up shade to prevent sunburn and drying, and water frequently to keep the soil moist. New shoots sprout at the end of March, the main vine forms in late April and produces side vines, fruiting branches grow in early May, flowering occurs in mid-May, berries mature in early August, and each plant can harvest 15 kg.
In early February of the second year, apply organic fertilizer such as chicken manure, and prune slightly. Flowering occurs in mid-May, and the fruit matures in early August. Each plant can harvest 30 kg. The cultivation situation in the third year is the same as in the second year, and each plant can harvest 45 kg.
This method breaks the past convention of long-term cutting propagation with annual branches, or with annual branches bearing short two-year-old branches (no fruiting in the same year). Using one-year-old and two-year-old branches, plus a section of three-year-old branch, for deep-planting cultivation can produce fruit in the same year. The reason is that the branches buried underground have already accumulated relatively sufficient nutrients to supply the above-ground parts for leaf growth, flowering and fruiting. Through three years of experiments and observation, this method, compared with the past conventional production method, grows faster, has more vigorous growth, yields more, and is also simple and easy to carry out.
In addition, before taking grape cuttings, soak the branches to be cut in indoleacetic acid or naphthaleneacetic acid solution for a few minutes. In this way, after cutting, the branches can be prompted to root, sprout quickly, and the plants also develop robustly. For pest and disease control, after the grape buds swell, spray 2-3 times with Bordeaux mixture at 1:0.5:200-240 times to prevent black pox disease. Use 1000 times dichlorvos to spray twice in early and mid-June to control the damage of grape plume moths, clearwing moths and other pests. Use poisoned bait to control mouse damage, or install hard paper rings on the lower part of the trellis so that mice cannot climb up the frame along the poles. Source: **Xingnong Network
New technique for green branch grafting of grapes
In spring, grape budding interfaces are prone to bleeding, and the survival rate is very low; in summer, branches sprouting from budding are short and weak, and by autumn frost they have poor lignification and die as soon as frost appears, so it is better to use green branch grafting for grapes.
The time for green branch grafting is summer, when there is no bleeding at the interface and the survival rate is high. Green branch grafting uses relatively aged branches, and the new shoots sprouting after grafting can all lignify by autumn and can overwinter naturally in the open. Some varieties must be grafted, such as the Bing Pong Fujiminori grape, which has large berries and high yield, but self-rooted seedlings propagated by cuttings grow weakly, have small berries and low yield, so they must be grafted onto rootstocks of other grapes with good root systems (such as Black Peak, Kyoho, etc.). Green branch grafting is also beneficial for replacing and renewing inferior varieties, facilitating the propagation and promotion of fine varieties, and a small number of branches can graft a large number of seedlings.
The new green branch grafting technique differs from traditional green branch grafting:
1. Change from grafting with leaf stalks to grafting without leaf stalks (in the old traditional green branch grafting, the scion had to have a leaf stalk, which was not easy to wrap, allowed air to pass and water loss, and had a low survival rate. Without a leaf stalk, it can be wrapped tightly without air passing through, giving a high survival rate).
2. Change from grafting leaf buds (secondary shoots) to grafting winter buds (winter buds are thick and strong, the branches they sprout are robust, can mature early, and are fully lignified).
3. Change from using one plastic tying band for simple wrapping to using two plastic tying bands of different thicknesses for separate wrapping (use a thicker plastic tying band on the rootstock; it can be tied tightly, and use a thinner plastic tying band on the scion; it can wrap all parts of the scion tightly, preventing air passage and water loss, and facilitating survival). This makes the grafted seedlings grow thick, mature and fully lignified, and some seedlings can even bear fruit in the same year.
The specific method is as follows.
1. Selection, cultivation and management of rootstock
Choose two-year-old or one-year-old large seedlings of the Kyoho series grape with well-developed root systems, vigorous growth, and no disease or injury as rootstock. Beforehand, level the seedling bed, apply an appropriate amount of thoroughly decomposed farmyard manure or residue cake fertilizer, dig and level the soil finely, and plant the seedlings with row spacing of 50-60 cm and plant spacing of 30-40 cm. After planting, water thoroughly, and promptly cut back flat (at the lower root part of each seedling, leave two full buds and cut off the stem above them). In colder northern regions, after planting, when the weather turns cold, cover with a small plastic tunnel to keep warm and promote seedling growth. After sprouting, keep only one strong seedling bud on each seedling to grow upward, and remove other weak buds and tiller buds at the roots. Usually provide moderate fertilizer and water, remove weeds, and pay attention to pest and disease prevention. When the seedlings grow 7-8 leaves, pinch off the top to encourage the stem to grow thick and strong.
2. Selection, cultivation and management of scions
Choose excellent varieties according to your own needs and preferences. In a ventilated and sunny place, choose healthy branches with no disease and moderate thickness as scions. Beforehand, remove the fruit clusters on the branches intended for scions early (remove the fruit clusters on the branches intended for scions 20-30 days before grafting; leave no fruit on the branches reserved as scions) to promote good growth of the scion branches.
3. Grafting time and matters needing attention
Generally, the grafting time is from the end of May to the end of June (better early than late; late-grafted seedlings produce branches that do not mature or lignify). Water the nursery once 2-3 days before grafting. Grafting is best done on a clear morning after 9 a.m. and before 6 p.m. It is not suitable to graft on rainy days or when there is too much dew. The knife must be sharp. The thickness of the selected rootstock seedling and the scion branch should be roughly the same, and both must be semi-lignified (that is, the pith of the stem turns white). The scions used should be collected locally as much as possible and used as soon as they are cut. After cutting, immediately remove the leaves, wrap them in a wet cloth, and keep them shaded for later use. If scions need to be collected from a long distance, use a wide-mouth thermos bottle to store and transport the scions, with ice inside to lower the temperature and maintain humidity, preventing the scions from losing water.
4. Treatment of rootstock seedlings during grafting
Leave 3-4 leaves on the rootstock seedling, and cut it flat 10-12 cm above the ground. The diameter of the cut on the rootstock seedling must be more than 1 cm (seedlings that are too thin cannot be used). In the middle of the flat cut of the cut rootstock seedling, use a knife to make a vertical split 3 cm long up and down, ready for inserting the scion. The split opening should run north-south (so that the bud of the scion inserted later faces the sun, which is beneficial to growth).
5. Selection and treatment of scions during grafting
Choose branches with a diameter of 0.8-1 cm, semi-lignified (stem pith white), previously selected and topped, as scions. They should be disease-free and injury-free, with full, round winter buds. Remove the secondary shoots beside the winter buds (that is, leaf buds), and then remove all leaf stalks below the winter buds. Each scion keeps only one bud; leave 1 cm above the scion bud and 4 cm below the scion bud (each scion is about 5 cm long in total). After cutting the scion, use a knife to cut a slanted surface 2.5-3 cm long downward on each side 1 cm below the scion bud, forming a wedge shape. The two cut slanted surfaces should be symmetrical and even, and the cut should be flat and smooth. When learning to graft, practice cutting with young branches of poplar, willow, etc. two days in advance, trying cutting and slicing to increase proficiency.
6. Grafting and wrapping
Immediately insert the prepared scion into the split opening of the rootstock (after each rootstock is cut and split, immediately graft one scion). Do not dip the rootstock split or the scion in water, do not treat with hormones, and do not use adhesives, etc., so as to avoid contamination affecting survival. Face the side of the scion with the bud toward the south, and align the cambium on the bud side of the rootstock and scion (that is, align the bark layer). The upper side of the scion cut should expose 0.3 cm of the rootstock; exposing a little of the cut facilitates healing of the wounds of the rootstock and scion. Immediately use a plastic tying band 0.008 cm thick, 1-1.2 cm wide and 20-25 cm long to wrap the rootstock, winding tightly from bottom to top, tying it firmly and knotting it. After tying the rootstock split, use a plastic tying band 0.003 cm thick, 1.5 cm wide and 20-25 cm long. When tying, wrap, bind and tighten the entire scion above the rootstock, exposing only the bud, for fully enclosed wrapping. The angular places at the top of the scion must be wrapped tightly and bound firmly so that air cannot pass through. The two kinds of plastic tying bands used should be cut in advance for later use, and good-quality new plastic film should be used for the bands.
7. Management after grafting
Immediately after grafting, water thoroughly once, then water in time when dry, apply an appropriate amount of multi-element fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, and pay attention to removing weeds. New buds and new shoots sprout 7-10 days after grafting, flower clusters grow when the third leaf appears, and some strong seedlings produce a second flower cluster after the fourth to fifth leaf. Promptly remove curled tendrils and flower clusters on the seedlings. When the grafted seedlings grow to 20-25 cm high, promptly insert stakes and tie them to prevent wind from blowing them over. Usually promptly remove tiller buds on the rootstock. When the grafted seedlings grow 7-8 leaves, pinch off the top (to promote thick and mature stems). After pinching, new buds sprout in each leaf axil; keep the topmost bud to extend and grow upward, and pinch off the buds growing from other leaf axils (also called secondary shoots) after leaving one leaf (that is, topping). When the topmost bud branch grows another 7-8 leaves, pinch off the top once more.
After grafting, pay attention to preventing pests and diseases. Along with disease and pest prevention, spray foliar fertilizer such as 0.2% monopotassium phosphate once every half month or 20 days, for 2-3 consecutive times. The plastic tying band at the grafted part should not be removed too early; it is better to remove it in October after autumn or the following spring. After winter begins, before the soil freezes, irrigate once with freezing water to increase the cold resistance of the seedlings.
Summer pruning techniques for Kyoho grapes
1. Thinning flower clusters and pinching cluster tips. For thinning flower clusters of Kyoho grapes, it should be determined according to the strength of new shoots and the size of the plant load.
The average weight of a Kyoho cluster is about 400 g, and the yield target per mu is generally 1600 kg. According to the requirements of average cluster weight and yield target per mu, if the number of flower clusters is too large, within 15-25 days before flowering, first thin out the weak small flower clusters among more than two clusters on one fruiting branch, and then thin out the flower clusters on weak fruiting branches, so that strong branches retain 1-2 flower clusters, medium branches retain 1 flower cluster, weak branches retain no flower clusters, extension branches retain 1 flower cluster to help control excessive growth, and reserve branches retain no flower clusters so that they grow robustly. The number of flower clusters retained before flowering should be about 1/4 more than the expected number, and after fruit set, remove those clusters with heavy fruit drop.
Pinching the cluster tip is done about 10 days before flowering, not too early and not too late. If done too early, the flower cluster has not yet extended, and it is hard to decide what to keep or remove; if too late, it consumes nutrients and is not conducive to preserving flowers and fruit. Pinching off 1/3 of the total length of the flower cluster has the best effect, and at the same time remove the secondary cluster to ensure the fruit cluster is neat and beautiful and to improve marketability. If you want to keep the secondary cluster, then the secondary cluster should also have about 1/3 of its length pinched off from its tip.
2. Tying and guiding new shoots, regulating tree vigor. The base of Kyoho grape new shoots is relatively thin and is easily broken from the base by wind, causing bareness and reduced yield. To prevent this loss and facilitate ventilation, when new shoots grow to about 30-40 cm, they should be tied to the trellis in time. In this way: (1) For strong vigorous shoots or excessive-growth branches, before flowering, twist and injure them at the 1st-2nd node from the base, then press them flat and tie them; (2) For medium vigorous shoots, tie them in an arched shape with the flower cluster as the highest point, to weaken apical dominance, shift nutrients to the fruit cluster, and facilitate flower bud differentiation at the base. When the new shoots grow to about 45 cm or reach the size for medium vigorous shoots, tie them in an arched shape again. This not only regulates the tree vigor of the current year, but also lays a good foundation for a high yield the next year.
3. Pinching the main shoot. Pinching of fruiting branches is carried out from 3-5 days before flowering to the beginning of flowering. If done too early, secondary shoots will emerge too early and compete with flower clusters for nutrients; conversely, if pinching is too late, it will cause flower and fruit drop. Fruiting branches retain 7-9 leaves; vegetative branches retain 9-12 leaves; reserve branches are pinched the same way as fruiting branches in terms of leaves retained. The main extension branches should be pinched around August.
4. Treatment of secondary shoots. After pinching the new shoots, the formation of secondary shoots in the leaf axils of the new shoots is accelerated, and they must be treated in time. Generally, throughout the entire growth period, they need to be treated 3-4 times. Methods: (1) Remove all secondary shoots below the fruit cluster from the base; that is, the secondary shoots themselves retain no leaves; for secondary shoots in each leaf axil above the fruit cluster, before and after the rainy season, leave one leaf and repeatedly pinch; during the rainy season, leave 2-3 leaves and repeatedly pinch. (2) Remove all secondary shoots below the fruit cluster from the base without leaving leaves; for secondary shoots above the fruit cluster, except for the top 1-2 which retain 4-5 leaves and are pinched, then later pinched again leaving 1-2 leaves repeatedly. Remove all the rest from their stems. Either of the above two methods may be used. (3) For secondary shoots of vegetative branches and extension branches, keep the top 1-2 secondary shoots with 1-2 leaves and repeatedly pinch, and remove all the other secondary shoots without leaving leaves. (4) The secondary shoots of reserve branches are treated the same as those of fruiting branches.
5. Remove tendrils and pick old leaves. Grape tendrils grow fastest during plant growth and are the vanguard. When branches and vines are manually tied and guided, tendrils have no effect, so they should be removed at any time in conjunction with other summer management work. Ventilation and light penetration are measures to ensure good coloring of Kyoho grapes. In early August, appropriately remove some aged leaves.
Grape pinching techniques
Pinching for seedling cultivation. This is the key to promoting early fruiting in grapes. When seedlings grow to 3-5 leaves, pinch immediately, using the main shoot in three sections to develop a single main vine fruiting tree shape. After pinching, except for the top secondary shoot which is completely removed, the secondary shoots at the remaining nodes are pinched after leaving 1 leaf, prompting the top winter bud to break convention about 28 days after pinching and form and sprout early (the normal growth rule is that winter buds must form over one full year and sprout the following spring); when the main shoot sprouted from the second-section winter bud grows to 5-6 leaves, pinch to prompt secondary shoots, and treat the secondary shoots as described above, prompting the third-section winter bud main shoot to sprout; after the third-section winter bud main shoot grows out, do not prompt a fourth-section winter bud main shoot. Do not remove its top secondary shoot; leave 3-4 leaves and pinch, and pinch secondary shoots at the remaining nodes after leaving 1 leaf. Through such strong pinching treatment, under sufficient fertilizer and water, the three-section main shoot single-vine fruiting mother branch will grow to chopstick thickness in one year, with good maturity, and the vast majority will flower and fruit the next year. For high-position bagged seedlings and low-position layered seedlings, using this pinching cultivation makes early fruiting even more reliable.
Pinching for fruit preservation. The key is to grasp the timing. Be sure to pinch suddenly within 1-2 days at the beginning of flowering. Pinching too early or too late will lose the fruit-preserving effect, because pinching can only resist growth for about 7 days, and the key time for fruit preservation is within 3-5 days after flowering. As for how many leaves to leave above the fruit cluster when pinching, it should suit the branch, and 3-7 leaves are all acceptable. As long as you seize the timing and pinch, even without spraying "920" liquid, the fruit-setting effect is just as good.
Pinching vegetative branches. At the same time as pinching for fruit preservation, vegetative branches that have not borne fruit should also be pinched early. It is suitable to pinch weak branches when they grow to 3-5 leaves and strong branches when they grow to 7-8 leaves. Do not follow convention and delay until after August, so as to help vegetative branches form thick, mature fruiting mother branches. Practice has proved that grape branches and shoots should not be left too long, and the secondary shoots that are prompted should be continuously pinched appropriately. When the trellis surface is full, the main shoots should be used for fruiting. After pinching treatment, if too many second fruit clusters are set, some should be removed to avoid affecting fruiting the next year.
Echinopsis tubiflora cactus illustrated guide: how to grow Echinopsis tubiflora / how to propagate Echinopsis tubiflora
Echinopsis tubiflora profileEchinopsis tubiflora
How to grow Echinopsis tubiflora and precautions, introduction to Echinopsis tubiflora
Echinopsis tubiflora, commonly known as the grass ball cactus and also known as Changsheng qiu, is a perennial succulent herbaceous plant of the Cactaceae family. The stem is spherical or oval, green, and the flowers grow among the clusters of spines on the vertical ribs. Echinopsis tubiflora generally blooms in the early morning or evening, lasting from a few hours to one day. Echinopsis tubiflora is a plant whose stem, leaves and flowers all have high ornamental value, and it is an artistic fine product among hydroponic flowers.
Native to the grasslands of South America, plants of the cactus family (Cactaceae), genus Notocactus, and the genus Echinopsis tubiflora (golden barrel genus Echinocactus), include about 25 species such as Echinocactus grusonii (E. grusonii) and Echinocactus ingens (E. ingens). The plant is small, from round spherical to elliptical columnar, and is often grown in pots for ornament. Notocactus scopa (N. scopa) and Notocactus leninghausii (N. leninghausii) are the most common species, covered with woolly down. Hairy Echinopsis tubiflora types have smaller flowers, usually yellow or red, sometimes only 1 cm (0.5 in) in diameter. Hairless Echinopsis tubiflora groups have larger flowers, up to 6 cm.
In terms of appearance, Echinopsis tubiflora can be divided into woolly types, warty types, treasure types, hairy columnar
types, strong-spined types, sea urchin types, top-flowering types, etc. The spines and hairs of Echinopsis tubiflora also vary in length, shortness, sparseness and density; the hair color can be red, yellow, golden yellow, etc.
Because of its unusual shape, delicate and colorful flowers, and ease of cultivation, Echinopsis tubiflora is loved by people.
Echinopsis tubiflora (scientific name; Echinopsis tubiflora), commonly known as the grass ball cactus and also known as Changsheng qiu, is native to South America and generally grows in hot, dry, rain-scarce desert areas. It likes dryness and tolerates drought. The main growth period of Echinopsis tubiflora is summer, which is also its peak flowering period.
Echinopsis tubiflora is a dicotyledonous plant belonging to the Cactaceae family. The definition of Echinopsis tubiflora has narrow and broad senses; in the narrow sense it specifically refers to the Cactaceae, while in the broad sense Echinopsis tubiflora generally refers to all spherical or nearly spherical cactus plants. Echinopsis tubiflora has a long lifespan and large volume; some varieties can live more than five hundred years and grow into giant balls two to three meters in diameter. At the same time, Echinopsis tubiflora can also be eaten.
Morphological characteristics of Echinopsis tubiflora
It is a perennial succulent herbaceous plant of the Cactaceae family. The stem is spherical or oval, up to 25 cm tall, green, and the ball body has several vertical ribs densely covered with spines, yellow-green, of varying lengths, arranged radially. Flowers grow among the spines on the vertical ribs, silvery white or pink, long trumpet-shaped, up to 20 cm long, with scales on the outside of the trumpet and long hairs in the scale axils. Echinopsis tubiflora generally blooms in the early morning or evening, lasting from a few hours to one day. The ball body often produces many small balls on the side, graceful and elegant in form.
Ecological habits of Echinopsis tubiflora
Echinopsis tubiflora is a dicotyledonous plant and belongs to the Cactaceae family in plant taxonomy. There are many types, about more than 40 varieties, with different spherical shapes, including stem spherical and oval, with vertical ribs arranged radially; spines and hairs also differ in length, sparseness and density; flower colors include golden yellow, white, red, etc. In spring and summer, large long trumpet-shaped flowers bloom from the ball stem. Small young balls can grow on the ball body.
Cultivation techniques for Echinopsis tubiflora
1. Household cultivation of Echinopsis tubiflora generally uses pot planting. The cultivation soil uses 6 parts humus soil, plus 4 parts sand and 2 parts rice husk ash. If a little bone meal is added, even better. Stir evenly and it can be planted.
2. In spring and summer, when Echinopsis tubiflora begins to grow, apply fertilizer once every half month, preferably a mixed fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. In addition, provide appropriate shading and never expose it to scorching sun.
3. In winter, move potted Echinopsis tubiflora indoors; it can overwinter safely at room temperature above 5°C. At this time, household potted Echinopsis tubiflora can be placed in an indoor glass tank to keep warm through winter, or covered with a double-layer plastic bag to keep warm through winter. In winter, Echinopsis tubiflora is in a dormant period, and the pot soil should be relatively dry, otherwise the roots are prone to rot.
4. Cacti are not suited to too much watering, otherwise the roots will rot.
Cultivation key points
Echinopsis tubiflora is a common type among household flowers. With proper care, it not only grows fast, but the ball body is also bright and beautiful, and it blooms abundantly.
Temperature
Echinopsis tubiflora likes high temperature and dry environments. In winter, the room temperature should be kept above 20°C during the day and not lower than 5°C at night. Too low a temperature easily causes root rot. In northern winters with low temperatures, watering should be stopped and the plant placed indoors above 5°C.
Light
Echinopsis tubiflora requires sufficient sunlight, but in summer it cannot be exposed to strong sunlight and needs appropriate shading. For indoor cultivation, light can be used to irradiate it so that it grows robustly.
Pot soil
Potted Echinopsis tubiflora requires soil with good drainage and air permeability and containing calcareous sandy soil (or sandy loam). It can be made by mixing 2 parts sandy loam and 2 parts leaf mold, 3 parts coarse sand, plus 1 part limestone gravel or old lime wall debris discarded when old buildings are demolished. It can also be made by mixing 2 parts loam and 2 parts coarse sand, with 1 part each of broken bricks, leaf mold and old ash wall debris. When planting, a small amount of broken bricks and tiles should be placed at the bottom of the pot to make drainage smooth.
Planting
Planting and potting are best done in early spring. The flower pot should not be too large; it is suitable if it can accommodate the ball body with a little gap. If the flower pot is too large, after watering thoroughly it cannot absorb it, air in the pot does not circulate, and the root system is prone to rot. A few taproot types and plants such as Lophophora williamsii and Echinocactus platyacanthus require deeper cylindrical pots. For types with shallower root systems such as Notocactus scopa and Rebutia, shallower ordinary flower pots can be used.
Repotting method
For potted cactus flowers, it is suitable to use highly breathable clay pots, with broken brick particles placed at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer. Cactus roots are relatively small, so the planting pot should not be too large; the pot diameter should be close to the plant body diameter, beautiful and harmonious. When repotting, part of the old roots should be cut off, dried for 4-5 days, and then potted and planted. Planting should not be too deep; it is suitable if the root crown of the ball body is level with the soil surface. To avoid root rot, newly planted Echinopsis tubiflora should not be watered; simply spray 2-3 times a day, and after half a month a small amount of water can be given. Only after new roots grow out one month later can watering be gradually increased.
Watering
In summer, the best time to water is early morning; in winter, it should be done in the morning on clear days; in spring and autumn, either morning or evening is fine. Generally, do not pour water from the top, otherwise over time ugly spots will appear on the ball body. Generally, watering must be thorough, and for this reason the soil must be loosened frequently so that the pot soil can easily absorb enough water evenly.
Summer is the growth period of Echinopsis tubiflora. The temperature is high and water demand is large. It must be watered fully, preferably in the early morning and evening when temperatures are low. At noon when it is hot, watering easily causes sunburn on the ball body. During the high-temperature plum rain season, watering should also be appropriately moderated. For Echinopsis tubiflora with a sunken top, be careful not to pour water into the depression, so as to avoid rot; this is even more important when watering in the evening.
During winter dormancy, watering should be moderated, just enough to keep the pot soil from becoming too dry. The lower the temperature, the more the pot soil should be kept dry. Adult large balls are more drought-tolerant than small seedlings. Winter watering should be done in the morning on clear days. As the temperature rises, the plant will gradually leave dormancy, and only then can the number and amount of watering gradually increase.
Potted Echinopsis tubiflora can also be appropriately fertilized during the growing season, especially those grafted onto three-ribbed arrow cactus, where fertilization should be taken even more seriously. The fertilizer can be fully decomposed diluted liquid fertilizer, applied once every 10-15 days. After autumn begins, pay attention to controlling fertilizer and water; generally applying once a month is enough, and stop fertilizing in early October. If fertilizer is not controlled and Echinopsis tubiflora is allowed to continue growing, the tender ball body is susceptible to frost damage when overwintering.
When fertilizing, be careful not to let it touch the ball; if it does, immediately spray and wash with water.
Base fertilizer should be appropriately mixed into the culture soil before potting or repotting, such as fully decomposed oil cake residue, bone meal, chicken and pigeon manure, etc., and left to pile for a period so that the fertilizer and soil fully blend. Topdressing should be based on plant growth; during the vigorous growth periods in spring and autumn, apply fully decomposed feather, hoof and horn or oil cake fertilizer water once every two weeks. Note that the osmotic pressure of cactus flower roots is very low, so fertilizer water must be diluted and light; heavy and raw fertilizer must be avoided. It can also be applied alternately with a mixed solution of 0.1% urea and 0.2% monopotassium phosphate, with the amount of fertilizer water just enough to cover the pot soil surface. For household cultivation, if the pot soil has high organic matter content, chemical fertilizer alone can be applied to keep the environment clean. Fertilizer is prohibited during high-temperature heat and low-temperature dormancy.
Flowering
Echinopsis tubiflora is generally cultivated for 3-4 years, and when the ball diameter reaches 3-4 cm it should be able to bloom. To make Echinopsis tubiflora bloom, note the following points:
1. Sunlight: Echinopsis tubiflora requires sufficient sunlight. If it is often placed indoors for a long time and lacks sunlight, it will not bloom. Echinopsis tubiflora needs relatively warm environmental conditions; if the environmental temperature cannot reach above 20 degrees, it will not bloom.
2. Watering: Never water too much; do not let the pot soil become too wet, but rather it is better dry than wet. Especially during winter and summer dormancy, watering should be moderated even more.
3. Fertilizing: Although Echinopsis tubiflora tolerates poor soil and drought, it is not easy to bloom under conditions of both drought and lack of fertilizer. Therefore, during cultivation, appropriate water and fertilizer should be given. During the growing season, apply dilute decomposed cake fertilizer once every 10 days to half a month. Fertilizing should not be excessive either; excessive amounts can also lead to failure to bloom.
4. Microenvironment: Pay attention to creating a local environment with suitable temperature and high humidity for Echinopsis tubiflora, such as making a closed shed with plastic film on a windowsill and placing Echinopsis tubiflora inside for care. This not only makes it grow faster, but also gives it bright color and makes it easier to bloom.
My method is as follows: place the flower pot on the balcony, with sufficient sunlight and air circulation. Before Frost's Descent each year, cover it with a plastic shed to overwinter safely and avoid frost damage. After Spring Festival and before Qingming, because the ball is large and spiny and not easy to repot, remove the old soil and replace it with fertile soil prepared from 15% chicken manure; 10% bean cake, 10% old lime, 5% plant ash, 5% wood shavings, 15% coarse sand or honeycomb coal cinders, and 40% garden soil. During the growing period, increase fertilizer and water in due course, using bean cake liquid and fishy fertilizer water as topdressing, plus spraying 0.2% monopotassium phosphate outside the roots, or applying phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For watering, follow the principle of watering thoroughly when dry.
Cultivation
Echinopsis tubiflora is indeed not easy to survive before it grows roots. Cultivating rootless Echinopsis tubiflora requires attention to the following five points.
1. Temperature: Echinopsis tubiflora likes high temperature and dry environments. Too low a temperature easily causes root rot, but too high a temperature easily leads to scale insect damage.
2. Light: Echinopsis tubiflora requires sufficient sunlight, but in summer it cannot be exposed to strong sunlight and needs appropriate shading. For indoor cultivation, light can be used to irradiate it so that it grows robustly.
3. Soil: Echinopsis tubiflora is suitable for growing in well-drained sandy loam. Indoor cultivation mostly uses artificial culture soil, usually prepared by mixing half peat soil and half fine sand; it can also be planted with culture soil prepared by mixing crushed pine needles with fine sand.
4. Watering: Echinopsis tubiflora requires a dry environment and is afraid of water accumulation in the pot soil, which causes root rot. It is best to use water that has been left to stand for watering.
5. Fertilizing: When changing the pot soil for Echinopsis tubiflora, apply a small amount of base fertilizer at the bottom of the pot. During the growing period, apply fermented organic fertilizer liquid once every half month, and be sure the fertilizer concentration is not too high.
Care techniques
Temperature: Echinopsis tubiflora likes high temperature and dry environments. In winter, the room temperature should be kept above 20°C during the day and not lower than 10°C at night. Too low a temperature easily causes root rot, but too high a temperature easily leads to scale insect damage.
Light: Echinopsis tubiflora requires sufficient sunlight, but in summer it cannot be exposed to strong sunlight and needs appropriate shading. For indoor cultivation, light can be used to irradiate it so that it grows robustly.
Soil: Echinopsis tubiflora is suitable for growing in well-drained sandy loam. Indoor cultivation mostly uses artificial culture soil, usually prepared by mixing half peat soil and half fine sand; it can also be planted with culture soil prepared by mixing crushed pine needles with fine sand.
Watering: Echinopsis tubiflora requires a dry environment and is afraid of water accumulation in the pot soil. Usually the pot soil should be kept "dry when dry, wet when wet." It is best to use water that has been left to stand for watering. In spring and summer, water once a month; in winter, water once every 2-3 months. Note that when watering, it must be thorough. Fertilizing: When changing the pot soil for Echinopsis tubiflora, apply a small amount of base fertilizer at the bottom of the pot, such as horse hoof slices, bean cake or sesame paste residue. During the growing period, apply fermented organic fertilizer liquid once every half month (a concentration of 20% is suitable), and be sure the fertilizer concentration is not too high.
Echinopsis tubiflora can be propagated by grafting, generally using the flat grafting method. The rootstock can be three-ribbed arrow cactus or robust flat pads. The specific method: first cut off the top of the rootstock, cut the base of the scion horizontally, join the two, and then bind them with string. After two weeks, remove the string.
The aging of Echinopsis tubiflora starts from the bottom. When yellowing from aging appears, use a brush to apply undiluted Yunda 120 to the ball body several times to fade the yellow and make the Echinopsis tubiflora rejuvenate. This is my experience. Yunda 120 is a plant growth regulator containing hormones and is harmless to the ball even at high concentration. It has fewer side effects than other plant growth regulators.
Care
Cacti like sunlight and are not afraid of dryness. So in spring and summer, water once a month, and in winter water once every 2-3 months. Be sure to water thoroughly; repotting should be done in spring, and a newly repotted cactus should not be watered immediately - wait 1 week before watering. For cultivating cacti, use a flat-bottomed clay pot, and the soil inside is best mixed in a ratio of 1 part sand, 1 part soil and 1 part bone meal, applying a thin fertilizer twice a year.
Propagation methods of cacti
Cacti are often propagated by grafting. Varieties that can be grafted include Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, Plaid Moon Cactus, Golden Star, Red Sun, Golden Hedgehog, Golden Thread, White Jade Elder and Schlumbergera truncata, etc.
The propagation of cacti varies by variety. Varieties that easily produce offsets, such as 'Grass Ball', 'Seedling Ball' and 'Venus', can have their offsets removed during the growing season, left to dry for a few days, and then cuttings taken once the wounds have dried. Varieties that do not easily produce offsets, such as 'Great Commander', 'Dragon King Ball' and 'Lion King', can be propagated by sowing seeds. Varieties with weaker growth, such as 'White Bird', 'White Snow Light', 'Exquisite Palace', 'Colorful Elder Jade' and 'Black Beauty Ball', are mostly propagated by grafting. For varieties that neither easily produce offsets nor yield collectible seeds, the growing point at the top of a robust plant can be destroyed to encourage offsets; once the offsets have grown to a certain size, they can be removed for cuttings or grafting.
Cutting propagation
During the growing season, April to May is the most suitable; taking 1-4 stem segments or large branched stems for cuttings both work. When taking cuttings, do not let the wound touch water; leave it in a place without direct sunlight for two or three days so the wound heals and does not easily rot. After inserting, place in a cool shaded spot before rooting, water sparingly, and roots will form in about 20 days. Although Schlumbergera roots easily, its roots are fine and weak, not tolerant of waterlogging, and its growth is poor, so it is often grafted onto other cactus plants with strong root systems, which can speed up growth. Commonly used rootstocks include Opuntia, Pereskia, cactus balls and Hylocereus undatus, etc. Cuttings or grafted seedlings generally bloom in two years. Under short-day conditions (8-12 hours of light per day), they can bloom in 2-3 months. If shading treatment is carried out in early July, they can bloom by the end of September. During the growing season, apply a dilute organic liquid fertilizer once every 2-3 weeks to Schlumbergera, and a small amount of compound chemical fertilizer can also be applied. After flower buds form, the potting soil must not be too dry or too wet, so as to avoid the flower buds dropping.
Cutting substrate: this refers to the nutrient soil, river sand, peat soil and other materials used for cuttings. For home cuttings, it is difficult to obtain an ideal cutting substrate due to limited conditions; it is recommended to use the already prepared and sterilized cutting substrate provided by this site; medium-coarse river sand can also be used, but it should be rinsed several times with clean water before use. Do not use sea sand or river sand from saline-alkali areas, as they are not suitable for the growth of flowers and plants. In early spring, or late autumn (when the highest temperature at noon does not exceed 28 °C and the lowest at night is not below 15 °C) during the peak growing season, cut off leaves or stems (with 3-4 leaf nodes), wait for the wounds to dry, then insert into the substrate, and spray the cuttings and substrate lightly with water. As long as the substrate is not excessively dry or waterlogged, roots and new shoots will quickly grow. From late spring to early autumn when temperatures are higher, cuttings rot extremely easily, so it is best not to take cuttings.
Grafting propagation
The best method is splice grafting, as after grafting it is not easy to dry out and fall off. Splice grafting is the ""-shaped grafting method.
1. Choose a well-grown Pereskia plant, first cut off the tip, then peel off the outer skin, with the peeled length being 1/3 of the height of the ball seedling.
2. Cut off the bottom of the ball seedling to expose the core. Drill a hole in the core (the hole diameter should match the thickness of the branch), with a depth of 1/3 of the ball height. The advantages of the ""-shaped grafting method are: large contact area, stable, not easy to fall off, and high survival rate. The best grafting time is April to May. Keep the temperature controlled at 20-25°C.
Preparation before grafting
1. Choose robust, sterile ball seedlings.
2. Choose a well-grown Pereskia plant as the rootstock. If making artistic shapes, a plant with more branches can be chosen.
3. Tools must be sterilized.
4. The operator must perform sterile operations.
5. The environment must be hygienic, or operations should be carried out in a sterile room.
Management after grafting
After small balls, columns and the like are grafted, move them to a place with weak light. Keep the temperature controlled at 20-25°C so that the tissue cells (at the wound) heal, which is generally basically completed after 15-20 days. At this time, gradually move them to a place with good light for care. The culture soil should be loose and breathable, and the water quality should be neutral.
Pest and disease control of cacti
In a high-temperature, poorly ventilated environment, pests and diseases are prone to occur. For diseases, spray carbendazim or thiophanate; for pests, spray dimethoate to kill them. No matter which medicinal solution is sprayed, it must be done outdoors.
Variety classification of cacti
The ball body often produces many small offsets on the sides, with a graceful and elegant form. Judging by appearance, cacti can be divided into woolly types, warty types, treasure types, hairy column types, strong-spined types, sea urchin types, top-flowering types, etc. The spines and hairs of cacti also differ in length, shortness, sparseness and density; the colors of the hairs include red, yellow, golden yellow, etc. Because of their peculiar shapes, gorgeous flowers and ease of cultivation, cacti are loved by people.
Bonsai is a reproduction of the strange and beautiful mountains, water, flowers and grass in nature. According to size, bonsai can be divided into large bonsai, general bonsai and miniature bonsai; palm-sized bonsai is miniature bonsai. This kind of bonsai is small and exquisite, lush and green, with a unique charm. Cacti have strong adaptability and a high survival rate, making them good material for palm-sized bonsai. Two methods for making palm-sized bonsai are introduced in detail below.
Giraffe
1. Giraffe bonsai: take 2 half ping-pong balls, one with the opening facing up and the other with the opening facing down, and stick the two firmly together with "502" glue. Next, fill the upper half ping-pong ball shell with culture soil, and plant the grafted cactus's rootstock Opuntia inside it, making a ping-pong ball shell bonsai shaped like a giraffe.
Single Peak Pavilion
2. Single Peak Pavilion bonsai: take a small plastic box lid as the pot, and burn a small hole in the center of the pot bottom as a drainage hole. Next, stick 3 toothpaste caps onto appropriate positions on the bottom of the pot as pot feet. Finally, fill the pot with culture soil, plant a moderately sized cactus ball, and place a small pavilion on top of the cactus ball to form a "Single Peak Pavilion". Place several pebbles of varying sizes in the pot as a foil, adding beauty and a sense of realism.
◆ [Cactaceae]
Golden Barrel Cactus, Golden Column fasciation, Mammillaria hahniana
Golden Barrel Cactus
◆ [Cactaceae Gymnocalycium]
White Tiger, Red Plum Palace
◆ [Cactaceae Gymnocalycium]
Jade Crown
◆ [Cactaceae Gymnocalycium]
Gymnocalycium baldianum, New World, White Spider, Phoenix Head, Magic Sky Dragon, Spring and Autumn Pot, Many-Flowered Jade
Heavenly King Ball, Heavenly Balance Ball, Auspicious Cloud Ball, Lucky Cloud Ball, Light Lin Jade, Heavenly Purple Jade, New World, New World
New World, Dragon and Phoenix Peony, Long-Spined Dragon Head, Dragon Head Crown, Waltz, Many-Flowered Jade, Gymnocalycium hybrid, Oriole Song Brocade
Holy King Brocade, Earth Spider, Crimson Peony (Vermilion Type), Crimson Peony Crown (Red), Crimson Peony Crown (Purple-Red Type), Rouge Peony, Peony Jade Crown, Peony Jade
Red Flower Sea, King Ball, Gymnocalycium baldianum, Jade Crown Brocade, Luo Star Ball
◆ [Cactaceae Espostoa]
Beyond Heaven Joy, Phantom Joy White Robe, Dawn Robe, Old Joy Column, Red-Spined Old Joy
◆ [Cactaceae Epiphyllum]
Pink-Flowered Orchid Cactus
◆ [Cactaceae Cleistocactus]
Dragon God Column
Dragon God Column
◆ [Cactaceae Copiapoa]
Demon Ghost Jade, Fish Scale Ball, Black-Spined Pine Wind Ball, Reverse Scale Ball
◆ [Cactaceae Thelocactus]
Sky Shake, Lion Head, Crane Nest, White-Spined Great Commander, Great Commander, Spring Rain Jade, Crane Nest Ball
Warrior Shadow, Multicolor Jade, Yellow-Spined Great Commander
◆ [Cactaceae Stenocactus]
Flower Hat Ball
◆ [Cactaceae Echinopsis]
Wild Wind Ball, Red Robe Ball, Crimson Beauty Ball, Beauty Ball, Peach Beauty Ball, Vermilion Beauty Ball, Flower Pattern
Peach Wheel Ball, Princess Wuyouhua, Desolate Beauty Ball, Giant Beauty Ball, Pang's Crimson Flourish Brocade, White Beauty Ball, Dense-Spined Light Rainbow Ball, Light Rainbow Ball
◆ [Cactaceae Cephalocereus]
Old Man, Summer Robe Column
◆ [Cactaceae Trichocereus]
Yiliang Ball, Xumei Ball, Golden Pheasant Dragon, Moon Chapter
◆ [Cactaceae Echinocereus]
Short-Spined Staghorn Cactus Variety, Pyramid, Sun, Black Tortoise, Fresh-Spined Shrimp, White Origin, Dawes' Blue Flower Shrimp
Ghost Gate City, Bonfire, Beautiful Flower Horn, Azuma Brocade, Three Light Crown, Three Light Ball, Moon Shadow Shrimp, White Origin Shrimp
Cosmic Palace, Gray Shrimp, Brave Staghorn Cactus, Golden Dragon, Purple Red Jade
◆ [Cactaceae Hylocereus]
Compton's Rat-Tail Cactus, Whip-Shaped Rat-Tail Cactus, Penglai Column, Measuring Sky Ruler
◆ [Cactaceae Ferocactus]
Rainbow Mountain
◆ [Cactaceae Neobuxbaumia]
Short-Spined Lingbo, Sword Peak
◆ [Cactaceae Cleistocactus]
Madder Ball Brocade
◆ [Cactaceae Ferocactus]
Golden Crown Dragon, Emori Jade Golden Red Dragon, Purple Phoenix Dragon, Yellow Bird Ball, White Bird Ball, Wild Vulture, Reaping Ear, Wu Soul Jade, Pearl, Immortal Jade, Immortal Jade, Yellow-Spined Sky City
Sky City, Sunrise, Curved-Spined Dragon Eye, Dragon Eye, Dragon Crown Emori Red Crown Dragon, Long-Spined Golden Crown Dragon, Wen Pearl Ball, Brave Ball, New Green Jade, Radiant Munia, Munia Ball, King Crown
Dragon, Yellow Color Jade Radiant Beauty Jade, Dragon Tiger, Spring Tower, Giant Vulture Jade, Peninsula Jade Soaring Sun Ball, Red Phoenix, Golden Bird Jade, White Emori, Forbidden City
◆ [Cactaceae Astrophytum]
Auspicious Phoenix Jade, Prajna, Naked Prajna, Luan Phoenix Brocade, Enzuka Four-Angled Luan Phoenix Jade, Jade Square Brocade, Potosi Luan Phoenix Jade
Turtle Shell Jade Glass Luan Phoenix Jade, Luan Phoenix Pavilion, Yellow-Spined Great Phoenix Jade, Star Ball Brocade, Super Bishop's Cap, Five-Ribbed Glass Bishop's Cap, Garden Bishop's Cap, Star Ball
◆ [Cactaceae Oroya]
Inca's Soldier Hat
◆ [Cactaceae Schlumbergera]
Crab Claw Orchid
◆ [Cactaceae Yavia]
Truffle Jade
◆ [Cactaceae Neolloydia]
Flower Dawn, Purple Prince, Snow Splendor Palace
◆ [Cactaceae Mammillaria]
Early Spring Ball, Fortune God Ball, Abundant Brightness Ball, Moon Palace Hall, Diamond Ball, White Dragon Ball, Pine Glow
Golden Hand Ball, Silver Hand Ball, Snow Robe, Long-Haired Takasago, Takasago, Genpei Ball, Brocade Ball, Bright Star
White Star, Moon Shadow Ball, Black Purple Dragon, Hope Ball, Golden Boy, Golden Boy, White Pearl Ball, White Dove Ball
White King Ball, Yellow God Ball, White Jade Rabbit, Crane Robe Ball, Jade Elder, Orangutan Ball, Cloud Robe Crown, Shining Light Ball
Dense-Tubercle Great Fortune Ball, Golden Ocean Ball, Butterfly Ball, Spring Star, White Bird, Sun and Moon, Flame Ball, Full Moon
High Throne, Silk Robe, Fragrant Ball
◆ [Cactaceae Aporocactus]
Golden Button, Rat-Tail Cactus
◆ [Cactaceae cristate forms]
Mountain Shadow Fist Brocade, Thai Mountain Shadow
◆ [Cactaceae Weberbauerocereus]
Golden Jade Rabbit
◆ [Cactaceae Epiphyllum]
Round-Toothed Leaf Epiphyllum
◆ [Cactaceae Rhipsalis]
Jade Willow, May Rain, Ghost Willow
◆ [Cactaceae Echinopsis]
Flower Abundance Ball, Benevolent King Ball, Golden Abundance Ball, Short-Haired Ball
◆ [Cactaceae Opuntia]
White Wonder, Small White-Haired Prickly Pear, Silver World, Golden Eboshi, Kono, Dragon Flower Precious Sword, Precious Sword
Blue Sea Wave, First Sunrise, Large-Flowered Prickly Pear, Thousand Sword, Red Eboshi
◆ [Cactaceae Schlumbergera]
Crab Cactus, Splendid Crab Cactus
◆ [Cactaceae Cereus]
Liancheng Horn, Mountain Shadow Fist Brocade
◆ [Cactaceae Cephalocereus]
Spring Robe, Elder Column
◆ [Cactaceae Harrisia]
Sleeve Bridge Column, Sleeve Bay Column, New Bridge
◆ [Cactaceae Lophophora]
White-flowered Peyote, Peyote
◆ [Cactaceae, Ariocarpus genus]
Ariocarpus retusus var. furfuraceus, Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus, Ariocarpus trigonus, Ariocarpus fissuratus var. hintonii, Ariocarpus retusus, Ariocarpus fissuratus, Ariocarpus trigonus var. horacekii
Ariocarpus agavoides 'Elephant Trunk', Ariocarpus retusus 'Lianshan', Ariocarpus fissuratus, Ariocarpus agavoides
◆ [Cactaceae, Aztekium genus]
Aztekium ritteri
◆ [Cactaceae, Sulcorebutia genus]
Sulcorebutia rauschii
◆ [Cactaceae, Uebelmannia genus]
Uebelmannia pectinifera, Uebelmannia gummifera
◆ [Cactaceae, Mammillaria 'Yu Weng Crown']
Mammillaria 'Crane's Child Crown'
◆ [Cactaceae, hybrid Epiphyllum genus]
Epiphyllum hybrids
◆ [Cactaceae, Discocactus genus]
Discocactus horstii
◆ [Cactaceae, Neolloydia genus]
Neolloydia conoidea
◆ [Cactaceae, Pereskia genus]
Pereskia aculeata 'Godseffiana', Pereskia aculeata
◆ [Cactaceae, Notocactus genus]
Notocactus magnificus, Notocactus uebelmannianus, Notocactus leninghausii, Notocactus leninghausii, Notocactus scopa 'Red', Notocactus leninghausii
Notocactus scopa 'Yellow Snow', Notocactus scopa 'Yellow Snow', Notocactus scopa 'Snow Cap', Notocactus roseoluteus, Notocactus 'Onigumo Nishiki', Notocactus warasii
Notocactus 'Sea God', Notocactus 'Red Rainbow', Notocactus magnificus
◆ [Cactaceae, Turbinicarpus genus]
Turbinicarpus valdezianus, Turbinicarpus lophophoroides
◆ [Cactaceae, Eriosyce genus]
Eriosyce aspillagae, Eriosyce paucicostata, Eriosyce napina, Eriosyce aurata, Eriosyce aurata, Eriosyce 'Tai Liu Tian'
Eriosyce 'Ni Long Yu', Eriosyce 'Yu Ji', Eriosyce 'Black Crown', Eriosyce 'Guo Fang', Eriosyce 'Rainbow', Eriosyce 'Pink-flowered Autumn', Eriosyce 'White Elder', Eriosyce 'Yellow Dragon'
◆ [Cactaceae, Strombocactus genus]
Strombocactus disciformis
◆ [Cactaceae, Neoporteria genus]
Neoporteria 'Qi Xian Yu', Neoporteria 'Bai Xian Yu', Neoporteria 'Huang Xian Yu'
◆ [Cactaceae, Cleistocactus genus]
Cleistocactus
◆ [Cactaceae, Variegated Forms]
Ariocarpus retusus 'Lianshan' Variegata, Variegated 'Red Fresh Beauty', Mammillaria 'Shan Chui', Variegated 'Shang Yun', Mammillaria 'Yellow Emperor Crown', 'World Map', Variegated 'Sweet Jade'
Variegated 'Jian Lian Yu', Variegated 'White Dragon Ball', Variegated 'Genpei Ball', Variegated Mammillaria 'Yu Weng', Variegated 'Lion King Ball', Variegated 'Geng Hua', Variegated 'New World'
Variegated 'Heavenly King', Variegated 'Demon Dragon', 'Yellow Ivory', Variegated 'Ling Bo', 'Yellow-bodied Fragrant Ball', 'White-bodied Peony', 'Purple Peony', Variegated 'Crimson Peony'
'White-bodied Rui Luan Yu', 'Yellow-bodied Bishop's Cap', 'Red Rui Feng Cap', 'Yellow Cap', 'White-bodied Star Cactus', Variegated 'Naked Hannya', Variegated 'Giant Eagle Cactus' variety, Variegated 'Peninsula Jade'
'Golden Dragon', Variegated Golden Barrel Cactus
◆ [Cactaceae, Rebutia genus]
Rebutia 'Silver Ball', Rebutia 'Golden Hairpin Ball', Rebutia 'Glass Bird'
◆ [Cactaceae, Borzicactus genus]
Borzicactus 'Ink Remnant Snow', Borzicactus 'Remnant Snow Peak'
◆ [Cactaceae, Cleistocactus genus]
Cleistocactus
◆ [Cactaceae, Pterocactus genus]
Pterocactus 'Black Dragon'
◆ [Cactaceae, Dolichothele genus]
Dolichothele 'Neptune', Dolichothele 'Venus'
◆ [Cactaceae, Dolichothele genus]
Dolichothele 'Silver Amber'
◆ [Cactaceae, Hamatocactus genus]
Hamatocactus 'Big Anchor', Hamatocactus 'Big Rainbow', Hamatocactus setispinus
◆ [Cactaceae, Pfeiffera genus]
Pfeiffera ianthothele
◆ [Cactaceae, Oreocereus genus]
Oreocereus 'White Cloud Brocade' seedling, Oreocereus 'Wu Lie Column', Oreocereus 'Yellow Dinosaur', Oreocereus 'White Mink Column', Oreocereus 'White Cloud Brocade'
◆ [Cactaceae, Echinofossulocactus genus]
Echinofossulocactus 'Dragon Tongue Jade', Echinofossulocactus 'Dark Blue Jade', Echinofossulocactus 'Long-spined Snow Stream', Echinofossulocactus 'Snow Stream Ball', Echinofossulocactus multicostatus, Echinofossulocactus 'Five-spined Jade', Echinofossulocactus 'Rui Huang Dragon'
Variegated 'Shrunken Jade', Variegated Echinofossulocactus multicostatus, 'Shrunken Jade', 'Sword Love Jade', 'Dragon Jade', 'Dragon Sword Ball'
◆ [Cactaceae, Ancistrocactus genus]
Variegated Ancistrocactus 'Rosa'
◆ [Cactaceae, Coryphantha genus]
Coryphantha 'Big Auspicious Crown', Coryphantha 'Golden Ring Eclipse', Coryphantha 'Needle Mouse Ball', Coryphantha 'Demon Elephant Ball', Coryphantha 'Heavenly Officer Ball', Coryphantha 'Brave Heaven Ball', Coryphantha 'Ivory Ball'
Coryphantha 'Jade Lion'
◆ [Cactaceae, Mammillaria genus]
Mammillaria 'Elegant Ball'
◆ [Cactaceae, Leuchtenbergia genus]
Leuchtenbergia principis
◆ [Cactaceae, Cleistocactus genus]
Cleistocactus 'White Awn Column', Cleistocactus 'Yellow Spine Column', Cleistocactus 'Snake Column'
◆ [Cactaceae, Echinocereus genus]
Echinocereus 'Silver City'
◆ [Cactaceae, Cleistocactus genus]
Cleistocactus 'Golden Button'
◆ [Cactaceae, Melocactus genus]
Melocactus 'Golden Cloud', Melocactus 'Blue Cloud', Melocactus 'Chaotic Cloud', Melocactus 'Red Cloud', Melocactus 'Jade Cloud', Melocactus 'Demon Cloud'
Melocactus 'Colorful Cloud', Melocactus 'Layered Cloud', Melocactus 'Short-spined Cloud', Melocactus 'Cloud', Melocactus 'Sand Cloud', Melocactus 'Blue Cloud Crown'
◆ [Cactaceae, Rhipsalidopsis genus]
Rhipsalidopsis 'Dancing Falling Flowers', Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri
◆ [Cactaceae, Cleistocactus genus]
Cleistocactus 'Fortune and Longevity'
◆ [Cactaceae, Pfeiffera genus]
Pfeiffera
◆ [Cactaceae, Copiapoa genus]
Copiapoa 'Five Hundred Harbors Jade', Copiapoa 'Black Flash'
◆ [Cactaceae, Golden Barrel Cactus]
Golden Barrel Cactus
◆ [Cactaceae, Echinocactus genus]
Golden Barrel Cactus, Golden Barrel Cactus, Echinocactus 'Benkei Ball', Echinocactus 'Spring Thunder', Echinocactus 'Rock', Echinocactus 'Angry Barrel', Short-spined Golden Barrel Cactus
Short-spined Golden Barrel Cactus, Wild-spined Golden Barrel Cactus, White-spined Golden Barrel, Echinocactus 'Ling Bo', Echinocactus 'Angry Barrel', Echinocactus 'Rock', Echinocactus 'Silver Barrel', Wild-spined Golden Barrel Cactus
Echinocactus 'Spring Thunder', Variegated Golden Barrel Cactus, Naked Barrel Crown, Naked Barrel, Echinocactus 'Mou Qing', Golden Barrel Cactus
◆ [Cactaceae, Parodia genus]
Parodia 'Silver Pen Jade', Parodia 'Orange Embroidery Jade', Parodia 'Red-spined Demon God', Parodia 'Black God Ball', Parodia 'Embroidery Jade', Parodia 'Crimson Embroidery Jade', Parodia 'Big Hook Embroidery Jade'
Parodia 'Witch's Red Crown', Parodia 'Demon God Ball'
◆ [Cactaceae, Neobuxbaumia genus]
Neobuxbaumia
◆ [Cactaceae, Obregonia genus]
Obregonia 'Great Wall Ball', Obregonia 'Tooth City Ball', Obregonia 'Rising Dragon Ball', Obregonia denegrii, Obregonia 'Emperor Crown'
◆ [Cactaceae, Astrophytum genus]
Astrophytum hybrids
◆ [Cactaceae, Rebutia genus]
Rebutia 'Green Crown', Rebutia 'Short-spined Golden Hairpin Ball', Rebutia 'Red Treasure Mountain'
◆ [Cactaceae, Monstrose Forms]
Mammillaria 'Yu Weng Crown', 'Incense Burner Peak', Monstrose 'Genpei', Monstrose Notocactus scopa 'Yellow Snow', 'Crimson Rust Jade Crown', Monstrose 'Dawn Cloud', Monstrose 'Blue-bodied Cloud'
Monstrose 'Sweet Jade', Variegated 'White Letian Crown', 'Golden Shake Crown', Monstrose 'Red God', Monstrose 'World Map', Monstrose Variegated 'Crimson Peony', Monstrose 'Purple Peony', Monstrose 'Crimson Peony'
Monstrose 'Emperor Crown', 'Hibiscus Peak', 'Yellow New World Crown', Variegated 'New World Crown', 'White Amber Crown', Monstrose Bishop's Cap, 'Remnant Snow Peak', 'Dawn Garment Crown'
Monstrose 'Old Joy', Monstrose Short-spined Golden Barrel Cactus, Monstrose Wild-spined Golden Barrel Cactus, Monstrose Golden Barrel Cactus
◆ [Cactaceae, Eriosyce genus]
Eriosyce 'Beautiful Beard Jade'
Distribution Range of the Golden Barrel Cactus
The Golden Barrel Cactus is native to South America, originating in hot, dry, arid desert regions, where it developed a drought-tolerant nature and a preference for dry conditions. The Golden Barrel Cactus is sensitive to cold and prefers well-drained sandy soil. Summer is the growing season for the Golden Barrel Cactus and also its peak flowering period.
Uses and Ornamental Value of the Golden Barrel Cactus
In the horticultural world, spherical varieties of cactus plants are customarily called Golden Barrel Cactus; the Golden Barrel Cactus has high ornamental value in its stem, spines and flowers. Traditional Golden Barrel Cactus plants are grown in deserts, while hydroponic Golden Barrel Cactus cultivated through plant hydroponic mutation techniques allow you to admire both its tender white root system and the lovely small fish swimming among the roots, which is truly delightful. It is an artistic masterpiece among hydroponic flowers.
Health Benefits
The cactus is cold in nature and bitter in taste, containing triterpenes, malic acid, succinic acid, potassium carbonate and other components, and has the effects of promoting qi and blood circulation, nourishing the stomach, and clearing heat and detoxifying. It can treat the following ailments:
Chilblains: Take a cactus, remove the spines, mash it into a paste, apply it to the affected area, bandage it with gauze, and remove the dressing after 5 consecutive days of application. This method is suitable for first- to second-degree chilblains (not suitable for those whose chilblains have already ulcerated).
Tenosynovitis: Choose a piece of cactus slightly larger than the affected tendon sheath area, remove the spines, scrape off the epidermis on one side, apply it to the affected area, and secure it with medical tape. Replace with a fresh cactus every other day; generally after a few replacements, the swelling will disappear on its own.
Mumps: Take an appropriate amount of fresh young cactus stems, remove the spines and fine hairs from the surface, wash and mash them, spread evenly over the swollen area below the ear, and secure with gauze. Change the dressing twice a day.
Burns and insect bites: Use a knife to scrape off the outer skin of the cactus, mash it and apply it to the injured area, disinfect and bandage to treat burns. Mash the whole plant to extract juice and apply it to the affected area to treat snake and insect bites.
Stomach ailments and acute bacillary dysentery: Take 1 to 2 liang of cactus root, stew with pig stomach and eat to treat stomach ailments. Take 1 to 2 liang of fresh cactus, decoct in water and drink to treat acute bacillary dysentery.
Acute mastitis: Remove the spines from the cactus and mash it, add 50 milliliters of 95% alcohol and mix well, apply externally to the affected area, twice a day.
Diabetic foot: First clean the ulcer surface with hydrogen peroxide and normal saline, and remove necrotic tissue and purulent secretions. Then take 30 grams of fresh cactus, remove the skin and spines, mash into a paste, apply evenly to the affected area, and wrap with gauze. Change the dressing 2 to 3 times a day for 5 to 7 consecutive days. (Zhi Jing)
Feng shui effects
The golden barrel cactus is a spiny plant whose function is to keep people from getting close. The feng shui master Fang Chen described this plant's characteristics as preventing evil qi from approaching, with a repelling effect on the energy field. Placing it in the office: prevents petty people and gossip, enhances resistance. Placing it in the bedroom is unfavorable: disputes and quarrels are likely to occur. Because the bedroom is a place where energy fields merge, this plant is unsuitable, as it will create energy field repulsion.
Environmental protection effects
Golden barrel cactus - cannot resist radiation
It cannot prevent electromagnetic radiation. The stomata of the golden barrel cactus open at night, and while absorbing carbon dioxide it can release a large amount of oxygen. This increases the oxygen concentration in indoor air, so this plant can be placed in the home or office to purify the air. There is also a saying in feng shui that placing large potted plants with pointed leaves on the balcony can attract good fortune and avert disaster.
Golden barrel cactus - natural oxygen bar
Most plants carry out photosynthesis during the day, absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen; at night they respire, absorbing oxygen and releasing carbon dioxide. Some plants are the opposite, such as the cactus, which releases carbon dioxide during the day and absorbs carbon dioxide and releases oxygen at night. In this way, placing a cactus in the bedroom at night can supplement oxygen and benefit sleep. Do not underestimate the golden barrel cactus, it is also an expert at absorbing dust! Placing a golden barrel cactus indoors, especially a hydroponic golden barrel cactus (because hydroponic golden barrel cacti are cleaner and more environmentally friendly), can purify the air.
Medicinal and dietary value of the golden barrel cactus
The medical information and health dietary information on Huhua Network is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. For any health problem, consult professional medical personnel, and for the treatment of any disease, please follow medical advice.
Ultimate flower care mission: To love yourself, start from reality and strictly follow medical advice. Toward illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope, face it bravely, use love to warm the silent world, and use your heart to care for the flower field within.
Medicinal value
Synonyms: Xianrenquan ("Illustrated Flora of China"), Ciqiu, Chichiqiu, Xueqiu ("Fujian Folk Herbal Medicine").
Source: The stem of the golden barrel cactus, a plant in the Cactaceae family.
Morphology of the plant: A perennial evergreen succulent herb, about 15 cm tall. The stem is spherical, elliptical, or obovate, green, fleshy, with 12-14 longitudinal ribs; the ribs bear clustered needle-like spines, usually 6-10 per cluster, in a few cases up to 15, 2-4 cm long, hard and straight, yellow or yellowish brown, of varying lengths, radiating; dense white woolly hairs grow within the spine clusters. The central spines are small, growing within the spine clusters, and fall off early. The flowers are large, lateral, borne among the spine clusters, pink, opening at night, long trumpet-shaped, 15-20 cm long; the floral tube is covered with scales on the outside, and the axils of the scales have long cottony hairs. The berry is spherical or ovoid, without spines. The seeds are small and numerous. The flowering period is May to June.
Nature and flavor: bland and neutral, sweet in taste.
1. "Fujian Folk Herbal Medicine": "Sweet, cold."
2. "Luchuan Materia Medica": "Nature cold, slightly sour."
3. "Hunan Materia Medica": "Bland, neutral."
Functions and indications: Treats cough due to lung heat, blood-streaked phlegm, carbuncles and swellings, and scalds and burns.
1. "Fujian Folk Herbal Medicine": "Lubricates the intestines, clears fire, reduces carbuncles."
2. "Luchuan Materia Medica": "Clears the heart and lungs, stops bleeding. Treats cough due to lung heat and blood-streaked phlegm."
3. "Hunan Materia Medica": "Reduces swelling and relieves pain, promotes qi and blood circulation, removes dampness and clears heat, promotes tissue regeneration."
Usage and dosage: Internal use: decoct in water, 3 to 5 qian (2 to 3 liang if fresh). External use: mash and apply or mash to extract juice and apply.
Selected formulas:
1. To treat scalds and burns, and snake and insect bites: Mash the whole plant of the golden barrel cactus to extract juice and apply. ("Hunan Materia Medica")
2. To treat sores and toxins on the palms: Mash the whole plant of the golden barrel cactus and apply. ("Hunan Materia Medica")
3. To treat stomach pain: 3 liang of golden barrel cactus (peel off the outer skin), decoct in water and drink, once or twice a day. ("Fujian Folk Herbal Medicine")
4. To treat mastitis: An appropriate amount of fresh golden barrel cactus, mash into a pulp and heat, apply to the affected area. ("Color Atlas of Chinese Herbal Medicines (Whole Plant)")
5. To treat dysentery: 15 g each of golden barrel cactus, Fanbai Cao (Potentilla discolor), and Difengzi, decoct in water and drink. ("Color Atlas of Chinese Herbal Medicines (Whole Plant)")
6. To treat gastric ulcer: 120 g of golden barrel cactus (spines removed), stew with pork or chicken and eat. ("Color Atlas of Chinese Herbal Medicines (Whole Plant)")
7. To treat epistaxis: 30 grams of golden barrel cactus and 60 grams of lean pork, boil together and eat. ("Medicinal Flowers")
Edible type
The edible golden barrel cactus is a succulent plant in the Cactaceae family, growing in subtropical regions. It first originated in France in Europe, once spread to Vietnam at the end of the eighteenth century, and later entered the coastal Jing ethnic three islands of the Beibu Gulf and the Shiwandashan area of our country through Mong Cai. After more than a hundred years of evolution, it has now formed a green health food with unique local characteristics - the edible golden barrel cactus. In Enping, Guangdong, locals commonly call it Leguo.
In Enping, Guangdong, hotels generally offer this dish. The edible golden barrel cactus is tender and fresh in texture, sweet and mild, non-toxic, and without any side effects. It is a new type of medicinal vegetable with a unique flavor that truly lives up to its name. According to the latest information, the edible golden barrel cactus is a pollution-free green food that combines food, medicine, health care, beauty, and ornamental value. It has certain preventive and therapeutic effects on human cancers, hypertension, coronary heart disease, pulmonary tuberculosis, stomach ailments, diabetes, various heat syndromes, gynecological diseases, and more. It can also effectively remove tobacco toxins, alcohol toxins, gas toxins, metal toxins, and pesticide residues left in vegetables from the human body, filling a gap in the history of medicinal vegetables in today's world. Thus it has the fine names of "king of vegetables" and "king of medicines."
The flower language of the golden barrel cactus
The flower language of the golden barrel cactus is: strong, carry love through to the end.
Golden barrel cactus flower language: The golden barrel cactus is soft inside and tough outside, using spines all over its body to protect its easily hurt heart. Giving a golden barrel cactus to someone represents persistence in love for her/him, not giving up easily, and also represents trust in her/him. Trust that she/he can protect one's heart.
Golden barrel cactus pictures