Lilium lancifolium growing methods and precautions: it needs plenty of light
Lilium lancifolium is a flowering plant that is fairly common worldwide, and it can be seen in many regions of China. However, if we want to grow it well, there are many points we need to pay attention to. How do you grow Lilium lancifolium? What are the growing methods and precautions for Lilium lancifolium?
Lilium lancifolium is a flowering plant that is fairly common worldwide, and it can be seen in many regions of China. However, if we want to grow it well, there are many points we need to pay attention to. How do you grow Lilium lancifolium? What are the growing methods and precautions for Lilium lancifolium? Below, the editor will walk everyone through it.
1. How to grow Lilium lancifolium: understand its habits
To know how to grow Lilium lancifolium, we first need to understand its growth habits. This plant is quite light-loving, so when growing it we should keep it in sufficient light. In addition, daily water and fertilizer management are also points we need to pay attention to. The details are introduced below. Let us take a look.
2. Growing methods and precautions for Lilium lancifolium
1. Soil: humus-rich soil
Before growing Lilium lancifolium, we first need to choose the soil. This is the step of laying a good foundation and is very important. Generally, it is best to choose loose, fertile humus-rich soil. This kind of soil is rich in nutrients and has good drainage and aeration, allowing the plant to absorb nutrients better, and it is also less prone to waterlogging.
2. Fertilizing: once every 10-15 days
Fertilizer is one of the main nutrients in the growth process of Lilium lancifolium. Especially after it enters its growth period, its demand for fertilizer is very high. Basically, we need to fertilize once every 10-15 days so that the plant will grow vigorously. However, when fertilizing, there is one point we need to note: the fertilizer must be diluted before application, because if the concentration is too high, it can easily burn the plant.
3. Water: avoid waterlogging
Lilium lancifolium likes to grow in a warm and humid environment, so during its growth process we should water frequently to keep the soil somewhat moist, so that the plant will grow better. However, we also need to control the amount of watering and must not water too much, because this plant fears waterlogging, and water accumulation can easily cause root rot.
4. Light: shade in summer
Lilium lancifolium likes to grow in an environment with sufficient sunlight, but it is not tolerant of strong light. In spring and autumn, when the sunlight is more suitable, we can grow it outdoors and let it receive all-day light. However, after summer arrives, because the light is stronger, we still need to pay attention to shading to prevent strong light from scorching the plant.
5. Pruning: prune branches
In the process of growing Lilium lancifolium, we also need to prune it regularly. When repotting in early spring and late autumn, growers can combine repotting with tidying the plant's root system and pruning branches. This can help the plant's ventilation and light penetration, make the plant look more attractive, and also promote branching.
6. Pests and diseases: timely prevention and control
During the growth process of Lilium lancifolium, if our care is not careful enough, pests and diseases can easily take advantage of the situation. Such problems are very harmful to the plant, so we must deal with them in time. For specific treatment methods, everyone can refer to the article on pest and disease control for Lilium lancifolium, which contains detailed instruction.
Lilium lancifolium Lilium lancifolium Thunb. Lilium lancifolium illustrated guide: how to grow Lilium lancifolium / how to propagate Lilium lancifolium
Lilium lancifolium profileLilium lancifolium Lilium lancifolium Thunb.
Aliases: tiger lily, drooping lotus, medicinal lily, yellow lily, Yixing lily, Nanjing lily
Classification: herbaceous flower
Family and genus: Plantae, Angiosperms, Monocotyledons, Liliales, Liliaceae, Lilium
Full bloom period: summer
Lilium lancifolium (scientific name: Lilium lancifolium Thunb.): Its petals are either flat and spreading or curled outward, hence the beautiful name "Lilium lancifolium." The bulb is nearly broadly spherical, about 3.5 cm high and 4-8 cm in diameter; the scales are broadly ovate, 2.5-3 cm long and 1.4-2.5 cm wide, white. The stem is 0.8-1.5 m tall, with purple stripes and white woolly hairs. Leaves are scattered, oblong-lanceolate or lanceolate, nearly hairless on both surfaces, with 5-7 veins. Flowers 3-6 or more; bracts leaf-like, ovate-lanceolate; flowers drooping, tepals lanceolate, recurved, orange-red...
Growing methods and precautions for Lilium lancifolium, introduction to Lilium lancifolium
Lilium lancifolium (scientific name: Lilium lancifolium Thunb.): Its petals are either flat and spreading or curled outward, hence the beautiful name "Lilium lancifolium." The bulb is nearly broadly spherical, about 3.5 cm high and 4-8 cm in diameter; the scales are broadly ovate, 2.5-3 cm long and 1.4-2.5 cm wide, white. The stem is 0.8-1.5 m tall, with purple stripes and white woolly hairs. Leaves are scattered, oblong-lanceolate or lanceolate, nearly hairless on both surfaces, with 5-7 veins. Flowers 3-6 or more; bracts leaf-like, ovate-lanceolate; flowers drooping, tepals lanceolate, recurved, orange-red, with purple-black spots. The capsule is narrowly long ovate, 3-4 cm long. Flowering period July-August, fruiting period September-October.
The bulb is rich in starch and is used for food and can also be used medicinally; the flowers contain aromatic oil and can be used as a fragrance. It grows on mountain slopes under shrubs, in grasslands, along roadsides or by water, at an altitude of 400-**** m. It is cultivated in various places for ornamental flowers. It is distributed in China, Japan, and Korea.
Morphological characteristics of Lilium lancifolium: stem
The bulb of Lilium lancifolium is nearly broadly spherical, about 3.5 cm high and 4-8 cm in diameter; the scales are broadly ovate, 2.5-3 cm long and 1.4-2.5 cm wide, white. The stem is 0.8-1.5 m tall, with purple stripes and white woolly hairs.
Leaves
Leaves are scattered, oblong-lanceolate or lanceolate, 6.5-9 cm long and 1-1.8 cm wide, nearly hairless on both surfaces, with white hairs at the apex, papillate along the margins, with 5-7 veins, and bulbils in the upper leaf axils.
Flowers
The flowers of Lilium lancifolium are 3-6 or more; bracts leaf-like, ovate-lanceolate, 1.5-2 cm long and 2-5 mm wide, obtuse at the apex, with white woolly hairs; pedicels 6.5-9 cm long, purple, with white woolly hairs; flowers drooping, tepals lanceolate, recurved, orange-red, with purple-black spots; outer tepals 6-10 cm long and 1-2 cm wide; inner tepals slightly wider, with papillate projections on both sides of the nectary and also fringed projections; stamens spreading in four directions; filaments 5-7 cm long, pale red, hairless, anthers oblong, about 2 cm long; ovary cylindrical, 1.5-2 cm long and 2-3 mm wide; style 4.5-6.5 cm long, stigma slightly swollen, 3-lobed.
The flowering period of Lilium lancifolium is July-August.
Fruit
The capsule is narrowly long ovate, 3-4 cm long.
The fruiting period of Lilium lancifolium is September-October.
Ecological habits of Lilium lancifolium
Under natural native conditions, the lily is a deciduous plant, mainly dormant in winter during severe cold, short days, and lack of liquid water. After a short summer dormancy, it sprouts in autumn to form a basal rosette leaf cluster, and after overwintering the stem elongates and flowers. The seeds mature in late summer. Lilies prefer cool and humid environments; places with sufficient sunlight and slightly shaded environments are more suitable for lilies. They avoid drought and avoid extreme heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat poor. The growth and flowering temperature for lilies is 16-24°C. Below 5°C or above 30°C, growth almost stops. Only above 10°C do plants grow normally, and above 25°C growth stagnates again. If the winter nighttime temperature is below 5°C for 5-7 consecutive days, flower bud differentiation and flower bud development will be seriously affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and flower splitting. Lilies prefer fertile, deep soil rich in humus, and most avoid hard clay; well-drained slightly acidic soil is best, with a soil pH of 5.5-6.5.
Cultivation techniques for Lilium lancifolium: soil
Before planting lilies, the soil should be disinfected. Commonly used disinfection methods include steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. Steam disinfection is rarely used because it consumes much energy and is troublesome to operate. Chemical disinfection uses 40% formalin mixed into a 1:50 or 1:100 solution and sprinkled over the soil at a rate of 2.5 kg/sq m. After sprinkling, cover with plastic film for 5-7 days, then uncover and air for 10-15 days before planting, or use 8-10 g/sq m of carbendazim original powder mixed into the soil for disinfection.
Thawing
Thawing and disinfection of bulbs: after the bulbs arrive, immediately open the packaging and place them at 10-15°C to thaw, and disinfect after they are completely thawed. Disinfection method: soak the bulbs in a 1/1000 aqueous solution of captan, chlorothalonil, carbendazim, potassium permanganate, etc. for 30 minutes, or soak the bulbs in an 80-fold solution of 40% formalin for 30 minutes, then take them out and rinse off the residual solution on the bulbs with clean water, then dry them in a cool place before planting. At some domestic planting bases, before planting, the original basal roots are cut off, which helps promote new basal roots.
Storage
If the thawed bulbs cannot all be planted immediately, they must not be frozen again, otherwise there is a risk of cold damage. They can be stored at 0-2°C, but for no more than two weeks; they can also be stored at 2-5°C, for no more than one week, and the plastic film packaging must be opened.
Density
For spring and summer planting, the planting depth requires the top of the bulb to be 8-10 cm below the soil surface, and in winter 6-8 cm. Planting density varies depending on variety, bulb size, and seasonal factors. In spring and summer, they can be planted more densely, while in winter when sunlight is weaker they should be planted more sparsely.
Temperature
To obtain high-quality lily cut flowers, temperature control in the greenhouse is very important. Within 3-4 weeks after planting, the soil temperature must be kept low at 9-13°C to promote rooting. Too low a temperature will unnecessarily prolong the growth period, while a temperature above 15°C will lead to poor development of stem roots. These stem roots will soon replace the basal roots in providing 90% of the plant's water and nutrients, so to obtain high-quality lilies, the development of stem roots is crucial. After the rooting period, the ambient temperature for Oriental lilies should be controlled at 15-25°C. If the daytime temperature is too high, ventilation and shading should be used to lower the temperature; if the nighttime temperature reaches 15-25°C, the lily cut flower stems will be short, there will be fewer buds, and quality will decrease. At this time, spraying or watering the plants with a gibberellin solution can increase stem length. The specific amount varies with different growth stages and different ambient temperatures; generally less can be used in the early growth stage and more in the later stage. Domestic solar greenhouses generally prolong the growth period of lilies in winter and seriously affect cut flower quality, so means of temperature regulation should be added.[3]
Humidity
The soil moisture before planting is best when it forms a ball when squeezed and crumbles when dropped. In hotter seasons, if conditions permit, water once with cold water before planting to lower the soil temperature. After planting, water once again so that the soil and bulbs are fully in contact, creating good conditions for the development of stem roots. Subsequent watering should be based on keeping the soil moist, that is, a handful of soil forms a ball when squeezed but does not release water. Watering is generally done in the morning on sunny days. The relative humidity should preferably be 80%-85%. Large fluctuations in relative humidity should be avoided, otherwise leaf scorch may occur.
Fertilizer
In the early stage of growth, flowering lily bulbs mainly consume the nutrients stored in their own scales, so no excessive base fertilizer is needed before planting. One month after planting, some fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing according to soil fertility. Lilies have a very large demand for potassium, and a compound fertilizer can be prepared in the ratio N-P2O5-K2O=14:7:21. Apply 10 kg per mu each time, once every 10-15 days, until 3 weeks before flower harvest. At the same time, attention should also be paid to supplementing trace elements such as iron, boron, and zinc.
Light
Light is an important condition for controlling quality, and lily flower bud development especially requires sufficient light. Insufficient light will cause poor plant growth and cause lily bud drop, lighter leaf and flower colors, and shortened vase life. When growing lilies in winter in northern China, due to the influence of insulation materials such as glass or plastic film, about 25-30% of sunlight is blocked, so in addition to keeping the surface of glass and plastic film clean to allow good light transmission, some varieties also need supplemental lighting, which can use incandescent lamps. In good modern greenhouses, horticultural high-pressure sodium lamps should be used. When producing lilies in summer, strong direct sunlight should also be avoided, generally using shade nets for shading. Asian and Easter lilies are shaded 40%, and Oriental lilies are shaded 50%.
Carbon dioxide
Carbon dioxide is beneficial to the growth and flowering of lilies. On sunny days from 8-10 a.m., in an unventilated greenhouse, apply carbon dioxide gas pellets to increase the carbon dioxide content in the greenhouse. Other methods can also be used, for example: hang a plastic bucket every 15-20 m (the bucket is 1 m above the ground), fill the bucket with a 20% sodium bicarbonate solution (the commonly used baking soda at home is sodium bicarbonate), then gradually pour the prepared 10% dilute sulfuric acid solution into each plastic bucket in 3-4 portions. Sodium bicarbonate reacts with sulfuric acid to produce carbon dioxide gas. A 60 m long, 7 m wide solar greenhouse requires 1.7 kg of pure sodium bicarbonate and 1 kg of concentrated sulfuric acid (concentration 98%).
Propagation methods of Lilium lancifolium
Propagation includes methods such as bulb division, scale cuttings, seed propagation, and tissue culture.
Seed propagation
The sowing method is sexual reproduction and is mainly used in breeding. The method is: collect seeds in autumn and store them until sowing in the following spring. After sowing, they germinate in about days. During the seedling stage, appropriate shading is needed. In autumn, when the underground part has formed small bulbs, they can be dug out and replanted separately. Depending on the species, some seedlings from seed can flower in 3 years, while others need many years of cultivation before flowering. Therefore, this method is not suitable for home use.
Bulb propagation
If you need to propagate one plant or several plants, this method can be used. Usually some small bulbs grow around the stem disc of the old bulb. When harvesting lilies in September-October, these small bulbs can be separated and stored in sand indoors for overwintering. In the following spring, plant them in pots. After cultivation until September-October of the third year, they can grow into large bulbs and be cultivated into large plants. This method has a small propagation quantity and is only suitable for home pot propagation.
Cutting propagation
Scale cutting method. This method can be used for medium-scale propagation. In autumn, dig out the bulbs, break off the plump and thick scales from the old bulb one by one. The base of each scale should carry a small part of the stem disc. Let them dry slightly in the shade, then insert them into flower pots or shallow wooden boxes filled with river sand (or vermiculite), with 2/3 of the scale inserted into the substrate. Keep the substrate somewhat moist. At about ℃, after about 1.5 months, roots will grow from the wounded part of the scale. In winter, the temperature should preferably be kept around 18°C, and roots will grow from the wounded part of the scale. In winter, the temperature should be kept so that the river sand is not too wet. By the following spring, small bulbs will grow from the base of the scales. Separate them and plant them in pots. Give them careful management and care.
Bulbil propagation
The bulbil propagation method is only applicable to a few species. Lilies such as Lilium lancifolium and yellow iron cannon mostly use this method. The method is: take the small bulbs formed in the leaf axils of the aboveground stem (also called "bulbils," in summer when the bulbils have fully grown but have not yet fallen off) and cultivate them. From growing into large bulbs to flowering usually takes 2-4 years.
Cut flower harvesting of Lilium lancifolium: harvesting
Harvest after at least 2-3 flower buds have shown color. Harvesting too early affects flower color, making the flowers look pale and unattractive, and some buds may not open. Harvesting too late will make post-harvest handling and packaging difficult, the petals will be soiled by pollen, and already opened flowers will release ethylene, greatly shortening the freshness period of the flowers.
Handling
After harvesting, remove the lower 10 cm of leaves, then grade and bundle. A grade interval of 10 cm is appropriate. For lilies tied in one bunch, the longest and shortest stems should preferably not differ by more than 5 cm, and the flower tops should be aligned.
Storage
After bundling, lilies should be placed immediately in clean, pre-cooled water, then placed in a cold storage room. The temperature of the water and the cold storage room should preferably be 2-3°C.
Disease control of Lilium lancifolium: penicillium disease
Symptoms
During storage, white spots grow on the rotting lesions of the scales, and then fluffy green-blue patches grow. After infection, even at a low temperature of -2°C, decay will gradually increase. The pathogen will eventually invade the basal plate of the bulb, making the bulb worthless or causing stunted plant growth. Although infected bulbs look unhealthy, as long as the bulb basal plate is intact, plant growth during planting will not be affected. After planting, the infection will not transfer to the stem, nor will it infect the plant from the soil.
Control methods
Store bulbs at the recommended minimum temperature. Do not plant bulbs whose basal plates have already been damaged. Infected bulbs must be soaked before planting in a 1/1000 aqueous solution of fungicides such as captan, chlorothalonil, or carbendazim for 30 minutes, then planted. After planting, maintain an appropriate soil temperature.
Rhizoctonia
Symptoms
If the infection is mild, it only harms the leaves in the soil and the green leaves below the young shoots, and sunken light brown spots appear on the leaves. Generally speaking, although plant growth is somewhat affected, it can still continue to grow. In severely infected plants, the upper growth is hindered, and the white underground leaves and the lowest aboveground leaves will rot or wilt and fall off, leaving only brown scars on the stem.
Control methods
Disinfect soil suspected of infection with a soil disinfectant. After disinfection, the soil must be ensured to no longer be infected; if the previous crop has already shown infection, ordinary soil disinfectants cannot be applied, so before planting, treat the soil in advance with a fungicide for controlling Rhizoctonia (fully penetrating 10 cm deep into the soil).
Phytophthora
Symptoms
Foot rot of the plant (Phytophthora) will hinder growth or cause sudden wilting. Soft rot occurs at the infected area at the base of the stem, becoming dark green to dark brown, and spreads upward, leaves turn yellow, and discoloration begins at the base of the stem. Similar soft rot infections often also occur on the aboveground stem, causing stem damping-off or bending.
Control methods
Disinfect infected soil with a general soil disinfectant; during cultivation, fungicides that control Pythium can also effectively control foot rot; ensure good soil drainage conditions; prevent crops from remaining wet for a long time after watering; in summer, the soil temperature should be as low as possible.
Pythium
Symptoms
These fungi attack both individual plants and plants within an area. Plants are stunted, lower leaves turn yellow, upper leaves become narrower, leaf color is lighter, and they often wilt. Plants affected by root rot have shrunken flower buds. When the plant is pulled up, transparent, light brown rotting spots can be seen on the bulb and root crown, or they have completely become soft and rotten.
Control methods
Disinfect infected or suspected infected soil with a general soil disinfectant; keep the soil temperature low in the early cultivation period; throughout the cultivation period, adopt correct cultivation procedures: cultivation in boxes containing potting soil and peat can control Pythium. After the crop has grown or when Pythium infection may have occurred, fungicides for controlling Pythium that are easy to spray onto the crop can be used, preferably in the evening. Spraying water for a few minutes (about three minutes) before applying the fungicide will significantly enhance the effect of the fungicide, and the crop can also be rinsed clean.
Stem rot
Bulb and scale rot and stem diseases caused by Fusarium. Symptoms: plants with bulb and scale rot grow very slowly, and leaves are pale green. Underground, brown spots appear at the top of the scales, on the sides, or where the scales connect to the basal plate, and these spots gradually begin to rot. If the basal plate stem is infected, the entire bulb will rot. The stem disease caused by Fusarium is a disease that infects the aboveground part. The recognizable sign is that basal leaves turn yellow before maturity, and the yellowed leaves become brown and fall off. On the underground part of the stem, orange to dark brown spots appear, then the lesions expand and finally extend into the interior of the stem. After that the stem rots, and finally the plant dies before maturity.
Control methods
a. Disinfect infected soil;
b. Plant lightly or moderately infected bulbs as quickly as possible, and the soil temperature should be low.
Leaf scorch
Symptoms
First, young leaves curl slightly inward, and after a few days yellow to white spots appear on the scorched leaves. If leaf scorch is mild, the plant can still continue normal growth, but if leaf scorch is severe, the white spots can turn brown, and at the site of damage the leaves bend. In very severe cases, all leaves and young shoots will fall off, and the plant will not develop further. This is called the most severe scorch.
Control methods
Keep the soil moist before planting; it is best not to use susceptible varieties; the planting depth should be appropriate, with 6-10 cm of soil above the bulb; during periods of increased sensitivity, avoid large differences in temperature and relative humidity in the greenhouse, and try to keep the relative humidity at about 75%.
Bud drop and shriveling
Symptoms
Bud drop occurs when flower buds grow to 1-2 cm. The color of the buds turns pale green, and at the same time the pedicel connecting to the stem shortens, after which the buds fall off. In spring, lower buds are affected first, while in autumn, upper buds fall off first.
Control methods
Do not cultivate varieties prone to bud drop in environments with poor light. To prevent bud shriveling, the bulbs must not dry out during cultivation. Ensure the bulbs have a good root system and let them grow under conditions as suitable as possible, with particular attention to light and transpiration.
Distribution area of Lilium lancifolium
Lilium lancifolium grows on mountain slopes under shrubs, in grasslands, along roadsides or by water, at an altitude of 400-**** m.
Lilium lancifolium is produced in China in provinces and regions such as Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Anhui, Jiangxi, Hunan, Hubei, Guangxi, Sichuan, Qinghai, Tibet, Gansu, Shaanxi, Shanxi, Henan, Hebei, Shandong, and Jilin.
Lilium lancifolium is cultivated in various places. It is also distributed in Japan and Korea.
Dietary or medicinal value of Lilium lancifolium
The medical information and health dietary information on Huahua Network are for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health issues should be consulted with professional medical staff, and treatment for any disease should follow a doctor's advice.
Ultimate flower-protecting task: love yourself, start from reality, and follow a doctor's advice. For illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope, face it bravely, use love to warm the silent world, and use your heart to care for the flower field within.
The bulb of Lilium lancifolium (lily): sweet, cold. Nourishes yin and moistens the lungs, clears the heart and calms the spirit. Used for chronic cough due to yin deficiency, blood-streaked phlegm, vexing restlessness and palpitations, insomnia and many dreams, and mental fog.
[Tibetan medicine] Xiapaoze: the bulb treats menstruation, strangury, and epilepsy, "Chinese Tibetan Medicine."
[Mongolian medicine] The function is the same as Lilium concolor, "Mongolian Medicine."
Garden Uses of the Tiger Lily
The petals of the tiger lily (Lilium lancifolium) curl outward and the flowers are fiery red, which is why it has the lovely name "juan dan" (rolled vermilion). Planted in the ground in a courtyard, it can be enjoyed in flower in summer. Abroad it has become an important ornamental flower. Its flower shape is unusual and its swaying form is full of grace; it is not only suitable for planting in flower beds, borders and courtyards in the garden, but is also excellent material for cut flowers and potted plants.
Uses and Functions of the Tiger Lily
The bulbs of the tiger lily are rich in starch and can be eaten, and can also be used medicinally; the flowers contain aromatic oil and can be used as a fragrance. In China, the bulbs of lilies can be dried in the sun and used to make soup, and many parts of the plant can be used as medicine.
Cultural Background of the Tiger Lily
The bulb of a lily is formed from nearly a hundred scales clasped together, which the ancients regarded as an auspicious sign of "a harmonious union lasting a hundred years" and "everything turning out as one wishes." That is why many couples have long used lilies for the bride's bouquet when holding their wedding. Beyond this auspicious meaning, its dignified and elegantly understated beauty is truly most pleasing. The plant stands upright, the leaves resemble emerald bamboo and are whorled along the stem, the flower color is vivid, shaped like a trumpet, and the bearing is exceptionally graceful, giving off a faint, delicate fragrance; it has been praised as the "Fairy in Cloud Garments." It therefore remains perennially popular on the international flower market and has enjoyed lasting demand.
Tiger Lily Pictures
How to Grow Lilies: Teaching You the Cultivation Methods and Points to Note for Potted Lilies
Like countless living things, for a lily to grow vigorously and finally produce beautiful flowers, the most fundamental conditions are: the bulb itself must be of good quality, the environment must be suitable, management must keep pace, and from the moment you plan to plant it until the flowers finally fade you must always care for it and manage it meticulously; in this way you will certainly ensure that the lily is as you wish, a delight to the eye. As for whether it can make money, that still depends on whether the market cooperates, but flower lovers grow it for their own enjoyment, so this is not within the scope of this article.1. Successfully ordering high-quality bulbs is the foundation of successful cultivation. However, since bulbs are not industrial products but agricultural crops, and are also imported products facing various national quality inspection requirements, problems of various kinds will always exist. No matter which company it is, domestic or foreign, if it dares to beat its chest and guarantee that everyone's orders (supply, supply quality) have no problems at all, then it is certainly a swindler. That being so, one can only choose a reliable supplier to reduce the probability of problems with the bulbs.High-quality lily bulbs: firm, clean, with a good root system
A common problem with lily bulbs is Penicillium infection (as in the picture below); if the infection has not endangered the basal plate of the bulb, the problem is not serious.Freeze damage - the sprout of the bulb turns black (as in the picture below); in severe cases it can only be discarded.2. Environment: The slogan everyone commonly sees is "even a blade of grass has life." I recall a Dutch expert also saying, "The water you can drink, it can drink too; the environment you can stay in, it can stay in too." "Even a blade of grass has life" speaks the truth: you must treat it like your own baby, touch it, sense it, and then change the environment it is in at any time; only then can it repay you with beautiful flowers.
1) Soil:
Soil structure: Although lilies can grow in all kinds of soil, it is very important to ensure that the cultivation soil has a good structure and maintains good drainage throughout the entire growth stage. Poor soil structure and compaction often cause lily roots to grow weakly or even die from lack of oxygen, or, because of poor drainage, allow Pythium to run rampant and cause the death of lily roots, ultimately leading to poor growth or even death of the lilies.
The picture below shows the situation where heavy rain under a typhoon flooded the soil, causing the roots to die from lack of oxygen; of course, overly compacted soil also makes the situation more serious.Soil pH and salinity: Maintaining a suitable soil pH is very important for the development of lily roots and correct nutrient uptake. If the pH is too low, it will lead to excessive uptake of mineral nutrients (such as iron, manganese and aluminum), while if the pH is too high, it will lead to insufficient uptake of phosphorus, manganese and iron. Everyone knows that insufficiency is bad, but not everyone necessarily knows that excess is just as bad as deficiency.
Lilies are also sensitive to salinity. Too high a salinity will produce roots that are hard, brittle and yellow or brown in color, reduce the roots' water uptake, affect lily quality, and in severe cases even cause the death of the lily roots and the lily plant. Soil salinity is often affected by the fertilizers and water used.
The picture below shows what was originally a very beautiful root system; because unrotted organic fertilizer was used, part or all of the roots died, which is a great pity.Soil-borne pathogens: Lilies often die because soil fungi harm the roots. Common fungi include Rhizoctonia, Pythium and Phytophthora. Rhizoctonia only harms the plant while the sprout is still in the soil, and Pythium can be alleviated by improving soil drainage. Generally speaking, it is very necessary to use a broad-spectrum fungicide several times throughout the growth process, such as chlorothalonil.
The picture below shows damage caused by Rhizoctonia and Phytophthora.From the above it can be seen how crucial suitable cultivation soil is to successful cultivation. If the soil is bad, no matter how much effort you put into managing it, you can only face it with tears. Therefore, it is best to choose soil that has not previously been used to grow lilies for planting lilies; of course, the most ideal is to use peat (domestic peat is fine). To reduce the difficulty of management, it is very wise to use 80% peat and add 20% perlite or pine bark medium. If base fertilizer is taken into account, using controlled-release fertilizer with a controllable release rate is the most ideal; if you are very fond of organic fertilizer, be sure to use rotted organic fertilizer.With such a good root system, why worry about not having beautiful lily flowers?
2) Temperature
Temperature during the rooting period: In the 2-3 weeks after planting, maintaining a suitably low temperature (10-12°C) to ensure that the lily can grow good stem roots is very critical. However, most of the time we cannot guarantee such ideal weather, so professional growers use cold storage for rooting, while we can use the crisper compartment of a refrigerator: wrapping the lily bulbs in peat (the peat should not be too wet; enough that a handful squeezed drips water) and placing them (breathable) in the crisper compartment of the refrigerator to root is a good idea. Although a low temperature will prolong the growth period, I think everyone should not mind managing it for a few more days.The situation after rooting: in the high-temperature season, root them first, then plant.
Temperature during the growth period: Although the most ideal growth temperature for lilies is 15-25°C, we have no way to control the temperature of nature; however, we should still avoid extreme situations. Below 5°C lilies are very prone to freeze damage, and above 35°C the growth period will be greatly shortened and quality will decline accordingly. In summer, when the sunlight is intense, we can lower the temperature by shading and increasing ventilation; how pleasant it would be to have a cool breeze under the shade of trees in summer.
3) Relative humidity: The suitable relative humidity for lilies needs to be between 70-80%, but this refers to professional producers carrying out production in a greenhouse. If you grow lilies in the yard or place them on a balcony, there is no need to consider this point. In a greenhouse, poor growth is often caused by excessively high humidity, but I have not yet seen outdoor lilies grow poorly even because of continuous overcast rain (provided the soil drainage is good and fungicides are applied regularly to control Botrytis); of course, slight effects will still occur. This is because ventilation in a greenhouse is very poor; a person going in will feel very stuffy, and plants feel the same way.
Here are a few pictures of damage to lily leaves caused by excessively high humidity in the greenhouse.Because the humidity is too high, the water pressure inside the plant becomes excessive, and ultimately the leaves are damaged when the cell walls rupture; in severe cases even the flower buds are gone. This is a physiological disorder, not damage from pathogens, and applying fungicide is useless. Using calcium fertilizer can increase the resistance of the cell walls and can reduce the damage.Long periods of overcast rain make the plant's leaves very tender, and because the plant must expel excess water from its body, the leaf stomata remain open all the time; being open for a long time ultimately causes the stomata to lose their closing function (they would originally open and close in adjustment according to climatic conditions). After the overcast rain, the stomata still remain open, transpiring and expelling water, ultimately causing the leaves to lose water, become papery, and even scorch.
4) Shading: Shading can control temperature, relative humidity and light.
In summer the sunlight is usually very intense; in the 2-3 weeks after planting (before budding), 80% of the light can be shaded out. After budding, because Asiatic lilies and LA hybrid lilies are sensitive to light and lack of light can cause bud abortion, shading can be appropriately reduced, for example shading out 50% of the light; Oriental lilies are not sensitive to light, so 50-70% of the light can still be shaded out.
The general steps for potted lilies at home:
1. Preparation stage:
1) Growing medium: It is recommended that everyone choose peat soil as the main medium for planting.
2) Fertilizer: It is recommended to mix 3 kg of 14-14-14 slow-release fertilizer and 0.5 kg of calcium nitrate per cubic meter of medium as base fertilizer.
3) Pots: A 13 cm pot can plant 3 bulbs of the 12-14 cm size; a 15 cm pot can plant 3 bulbs of the 12-14 or 14-16 cm size; in this way, choose pots according to your own situation. It is best if the pot is more than 12 cm tall.
2. Receiving the lily bulbs: After long-distance logistics, when everyone receives the lily bulbs they have thawed; normally there should be a small sprout, and as long as the sprout is no more than 5 cm long and is not broken, then even a curved sprout is no problem at all, so please plant it with confidence.
After receiving the bulbs, they can be soaked for 30 minutes in a 600-800 times dilution of chlorothalonil.
3. Planting:
1) First mix the medium and base fertilizer evenly, and water until a handful squeezed drips water;
2) Spread 2-3 cm of the mixed medium at the bottom of the pot;
3) Plant the bulbs in the pot with the sprouts facing outward;
4) Cover the bulbs with about 8 cm of medium;
5) Water thoroughly and place in a shaded place, avoiding sunlight as much as possible.
4. It is recommended that the planting amount per pot be 1, 3 or 5 bulbs; odd numbers look better, and if there are more than 5 then odd or even no longer matters.
At the temperatures of June-July, sprouts can generally be seen emerging in 7 days.
1. Medium: peat soil2. Fertilizer: controlled-release fertilizer, calcium nitrate3. Pot: a 160 dual-color pot, planting 3 bulbs4. Planting
1) The correct way to plant: the sprout of the bulb faces the pot wallThe incorrect way to plant: the sprout of the bulb faces the middle; consequence: the sprouts all gather in the middle, which does not look goodOf course, if you plant at random, then when the sprouts emerge they will be very messy and disordered, which does not look good. As for potting, it is best to wait until the bulb has a 3-5 cm sprout before planting, so that the orientation of the sprouts can be controlled and the overall appearance of the plant will be better.
What growing environment after planting?
In the two weeks after planting, lily growth still needs a relatively low temperature to continue good root development, so for potted lilies, after planting you can choose a place without direct sunlight; for lilies planted in the open ground, shade netting can be used to block direct sunlight. However, whether potted or open-ground, once the lily has formed flower buds it should immediately be given light; potted ones can be moved to a place with ample light, and for open-ground ones the shading material must be removed, otherwise it will affect the number of flower buds and the flowering quality of the lily; Asiatic lilies in particular are more sensitive to light, and in severe cases all the buds will drop. Appropriate topdressing can make the lily stems thicker and stronger, especially in the hot summer. But note that the concentration should be lighter than usual to avoid fertilizer burn. For topdressing you can still choose a high-potassium lily-specific fertilizer 15-15-30 diluted in water, at a concentration of 1000-1500 ppm, that is, add 1 gram of water-soluble fertilizer to 1-1.5 liters of water and mix evenly.
Each variety has different characteristics, and the flowering time is also early or late accordingly. But high or low temperatures will also affect how early or late flowering occurs. For the usual flowering time of a specific variety, please see the product information for each variety. Here, I would like to remind friends in the northernmost regions that in the later stage of lily growth, if the nighttime temperature falls below 10°C, please move the lilies indoors at night. Generally speaking, the time from rooting to flowering for Oriental lilies is about 100 days, while for Asiatic lilies it takes only about 60 days. So when choosing varieties, flower lovers should choose according to local climatic conditions and their own care conditions, to avoid the situation where, just at the moment of flowering, they are frozen, and all the previous effort is wasted; would that not be a pity?
Notes:
1. The earlier mention that "we can use the crisper compartment of a refrigerator: wrapping the lily bulbs in peat (the peat should not be too wet; enough that a handful squeezed drips water) and placing them (breathable) in the crisper compartment of the refrigerator to root is a good idea" - if they are put into the refrigerator's cold storage compartment and spend the 2-3 week rooting period there, then when taken out from the 5°C temperature of the cold storage compartment, the outside temperature is at least 25°C; can they adapt?
Answer: Yes. Professional lily cut-flower producers take rooted lily bulbs out of cold storage, and the temperature inside the greenhouse is as high as 40°C. However, please pay attention to shading in the early stage, and after budding please reduce the degree of shading; if heavy shading of 80% is maintained all along, Asiatic lilies may abort their buds because of lack of light.
2. How to handle the bulbs after the flowers fade
After the flowers fade, please cut off the spent flowers. Of course, the stems and leaves are retained. At the same time, please carry out normal care; generally when the low-temperature season (November-December) arrives, the above-ground stems will die, and the bulbs will be in the ground. During this stage please reduce the use of water and fertilizer. After spring begins, as long as the bulbs have not rotted or been eaten by insects, they will grow and flower again. For lilies planted in the yard, you do not need to bother with them; the next year they will grow out nicely, year after year, and more and more small lilies will appear.
3. Here are a few pictures of lilies professionally grown in pots abroad.★How to Grow Lilies in Pots
Lilies belong to the cool-climate type of flowers, meaning regions with a cool climate and a large temperature difference between day and night are most suitable for growing lilies.
Lilies do not have the layer of brown old skin on the outside of tulip bulbs. Before they are planted in soil, they must be stored at a constant 2°C, otherwise they will quickly send out roots and are also prone to rotting. So after we buy lily bulbs from the market, we must plant them as soon as possible and must not leave them for long.
1. Prepare the bulbs
The top is the sprout, the bottom is the roots; do not get them the wrong way round! Some bulbs have not yet grown roots; you can tell the sprout by the scales opening upward!
Before planting, the bulbs should first be disinfected: soak them for 20 minutes in a 1000 times solution of imported carbendazim, rinse with clean water, and after drying they can be planted.2. Prepare the soil and pot
Lilies like fertile sandy soil with both good water retention and good drainage. Peat : river sand : perlite = 2:2:1; you can also use soil for cactus-type plants; in any case, clay soil must not be used.
Because lilies are bulbous flowers with two layers of roots, the container chosen should be a relatively deep pot.3. Planting
First put 10-15 cm of soil in the bottom of the pot, place the bulbs; if there are three bulbs in one pot, place the tops of the bulbs toward the edge of the pot, that is, place them tilted toward the pot edge, so that after sprouting the plants are evenly distributed. Cover the tops of the bulbs with about 5 cm of soil, water thoroughly, and place in a cool place for 1-2 days.4. Care
Water: Keep the soil moist; from just having buds to the flowering period, spraying water twice a day, morning and evening, is enough. In addition, water twice a month with a 1000 times solution of imported carbendazim.
Fertilizing: Generally fertilize once every half month.Common Problems in Lily Cultivation
1. Leaf scorch
Cause of leaf scorch: caused by physiological calcium deficiency.
Conditions for occurrence: It is liable to occur under conditions such as overly heavy shading, poor ventilation, high air humidity, continuous overcast days, soil pH too low, and a poor root system of the plant.
Preventive measures: Improve ventilation conditions and increase the plant's water transpiration.
Give light appropriately earlier and harden the seedlings.
Using root-treating before planting is beneficial to root development and the absorption of calcium ions.
Peeling the leaves (separating the tightly clasped leaves) just before the leaf-scorch period occurs can also reduce the occurrence of leaf scorch.
Keep dry and avoid water standing on the plants for long periods.
Increase the application of calcium fertilizer such as calcium nitrate, which can be done by root fertilization or foliar fertilization.2. Root burn
Cause of root burn: the salt concentration of the soil solution is too high.
A. The soil itself is severely salinized and the EC value is too high;
B. Improper fertilization, applying too much fertilizer at one time, causing the concentration of the soil solution to be too high;
C. Insufficient water and overly dry soil can also cause the concentration of the soil solution to increase.
Preventive measures: Do not choose soil with too high a salinity; do not place medium or fertilizer with high salt content directly on the bulbs; adopt the method of frequent light fertilization to avoid using a large amount of fertilizer at one time and causing root burn; check the root system frequently, and if root burn occurs, water promptly and combine with foliar fertilizer spraying.3. High temperature has a serious effect on lilies; high temperatures should be avoided as much as possible, including high temperatures of the soil and the environment; anything above 30°C counts as high temperature.4. Common yellowing of leaves5. Phytophthora blight
Preventive measures:
A. Focus on prevention, avoid continuously excessive soil moisture (especially avoid flooding) and excessively high air humidity, and try to avoid air humidity above 90%.
B. Disinfect the soil and bulbs before planting; options include dexon, phosethyl-Al plus mancozeb, hymexazol and so on.
C. Avoid continuous cropping in land with Phytophthora-diseased crops that share the same pathogen hosts; for example, avoid continuous cropping with Gypsophila, carnation, Solanaceae, cucurbits and other vegetables. That is: soil that has grown Gypsophila, carnation, Solanaceae or cucurbits should as far as possible not be used to grow lilies again.
6. Root rot
Preventive measures:
Control soil moisture.
Disinfect bulbs and soil with carbendazim, dexon, hymexazol and so on.
Reduce the amount of nitrogen fertilizer used, especially ammoniacal nitrogen, and appropriately increase the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.7. Fusarium stem rot
Preventive measures:
Disinfect bulbs and soil before planting; lower the soil temperature.8. Botrytis blight - avoid a continuously high-humidity environment.9. Blindness (no flowers)
Causes of blind flowers:
A. Insufficient supply of water and fertilizer: The lily is a flower variety that needs a relatively large supply of water and fertilizer. In the early stage it mainly relies on the nutrition of the bulb to supply plant growth, and in the middle and late stages it mainly relies on fertilizer and water supply and photosynthesis to maintain plant growth. If the supply of water and fertilizer is poor, it will seriously affect the growth and development of the lily, resulting in stems that are thick at the bottom and thin at the top, weak plants, and in severe cases blind flowers and dropped buds.
B. Temperature too high: Too high a temperature will seriously affect lily quality. Lilies prefer a cool climate; if the temperature is too high, growth is too rapid, the accumulation of substances in the plant is small and the consumption of organic matter is great, which will cause malnutrition and, in severe cases, blind flowers and dropped buds.
C. Insufficient light: Insufficient light, planting too densely and poor ventilation affect the plant's photosynthesis, and less substance is accumulated, which easily causes weak plants and even dropped buds. OT-type lilies in particular are more sensitive to light, and insufficient light easily causes bud abortion.
D. Insufficient nutrients in the bulb: If the bulb size is too small, the bulbs are harvested too early, or the storage time is too long, the bulb's nutrients will also be insufficient, easily causing blind flowers and dropped buds in lilies.
E. Planting depth too deep: If planted too deep, the lily emerges slowly, which consumes a large part of the bulb's nutrients, leaving the plant with insufficient nutrients and poor growth, and in severe cases causing blind flowers.
F. Poor root growth of the lily: If the lily's root system is poor and its absorptive capacity is insufficient, the plant will be undernourished and there will not be enough nutrition to supply bud growth; bud growth will be inhibited, and blind flowers and dropped buds will also occur.★Variety Selection and Planting Methods for Lilies
1. Basic Introduction
Are lilies hard to grow?
Actually, no.
I'm a bulb enthusiast, and the order I've arrived at after years of cultivation is
Ease of care: (common problems in parentheses)
Rain lily > Amaryllis (expensive...) = Freesia (lodging) = Grape hyacinth (straggly) = Crocus (degeneration) > Lily (bud blast and bulb rot) > Daffodil (bulb rot, degeneration, slow growth) > Hyacinth (stuck flower spike, bulb rot, degeneration) > Tulip (bulb rot, bud blast, one-shot) > Ranunculus (rot, plain and simple) > Anemone (rots nonstop from the very start)
Oxalis has too many varieties to generalize; some are as easy as weeds, others are god-tier difficult
Gloxinia and cyclamen are better grown as herbaceous plants, so they're not included in the ranking; bulbous irises aren't widespread enough, so they're not included either
As you can see, lilies aren't only suited to being cut flowers in flower shops; as houseplants and perennial garden plants they're excellent too
Most lily hybrids actually have parents from China; they're authentically Chinese flowers and are very well adapted to our climate (except Oriental lilies, which come from Japan)
2. Variety Selection
Ease of care order
LA > Asiatic (A) > Longiflorum (L) = LO > OT > Oriental (O)
LA is an improvement on Asiatic lilies: faster bulbil production, larger flowers
LO can be considered an improvement on Longiflorum: richer flower colors, stronger fragrance
OT improves on Oriental lilies' heat tolerance, reproduction rate and ease of care
Fragrance
Oriental = OT > Longiflorum = LO >> LA Asiatic = 0
The last two, the Asiatic types, are basically fragrance-free, suitable for growers who dislike the scent of lilies
Longiflorum has a light, sweet fragrance, stronger at night.
The first two are strongly fragrant: Oriental lilies smell like florist lilies, OT varieties are sometimes sweet and sometimes pungent, LO is a blend of Longiflorum and Oriental scents, and the fragrance is very weak on hot days.
1. Lily fragrance is generally strongest 1-2 days after opening, then gradually fades; it's normal for it not to be very fragrant right when it opens
2. Lily fragrance is not harmful to the human body and won't trigger allergies; only an overly strong scent may irritate the olfactory nerves of sensitive people, causing dizziness, excitement and difficulty sleeping
3. Lily pollen easily stains clothing and skin; don't rinse with water, as it will stick even more firmly; use clear tape to lift it off instead. Removing the stamens is also a good option
Main hybrid classifications and their detailed pros and cons
1. Asiatic Lily (Asiatic)
Pros: many flower colors, short stature, many buds, upward-facing flowers, early bloom (2-3 months from planting), easy to grow, fast to propagate, extremely cold-hardy (can overwinter outdoors in Northeast China)
Cons: flowers on the small side (12-15cm), no fragrance, high light requirements during bud stage, bud blast easily with insufficient light
Representative varieties: many; most can be chosen with confidence, and there are also pot varieties around 20-30cm tall
Asiatic lily 'Spring Field' in a pot, pot diameter 15cm; the one on the right was treated with a growth retardant, the one on the far left is the original height
Actual potted plants don't reach the stated height (110cm); that's the height after two to three years of cultivation
SpringfieldTinos2. Oriental Lily (Oriental), together with OT commonly known as fragrant lily, florist cut flower
Pros: strong fragrance, large flowers (15-20cm), low light requirements, flat flower shape, broad leaves, bold and gorgeous blooms
Cons: some varieties are spindly and prone to lodging, not very heat-tolerant, relatively slow to propagate, late bloom, lower leaves yellow heavily
Representative varieties: Sorbonne (the pale pink flowers in flower shops), Siberia (the white flowers in flower shops)
Potted Oriental lily (the famous variety Stargazer), very beautiful; note the leaves are fewer but broader and thicker than Asiatic liliesSorbonne3. Longiflorum Lily (Longiflorum), also called Easter lily
Pros: elegant and graceful flower shape, very easy to grow, moisture-tolerant, fast to propagate, poor cold hardiness, native to the subtropics, no low-temperature dormancy needed
Cons: only white (all pink and yellow types are LO hybrids; online shops all mislabeled them this year), pollen easily stains the petals
Representative variety: everyone has heard of the famous White Heaven, right?4. LO hybrids - recommended
Pros: inherits the Longiflorum flower shape and ease of care, plus Oriental lily flower color and fragrance; very easy to grow and propagate, large flowers (18-25cm), fast development, no low-temperature dormancy needed
Cons: under high temperatures a single bloom period isn't long, relatively few buds, color fades with insufficient light, few varieties available domestically
Representative variety: Triumphator is the standout; especially recommended, one of the lilies any beginner can keep alive (often sold out...)
Potted Triumphator; note it's fairly tall with large flowersUnder strong light and low temperatures the flower color is very intense5. OT hybrids - recommended
Pros: inherits the excellent genes of Trumpet lilies (whose parents include Lilium regale from the Min River in Sichuan, etc.), richer flower colors than Oriental lilies, heat-tolerant and easy to grow, robust plants, no low-temperature dormancy needed. Very thick stems, large flowers (20-25cm), rich fragrance, suitable for gardens and large containers; commonly called Tree lily abroad
Cons: often few flowers the first year, some varieties have flowers so large they're deformed, flowers tend to droop
Representative varieties: Conca D'or, Yelloween, Nymph, with a wide color range, especially the yellow tones that Oriental lilies lack
Note: apart from Yelloween, yellow varieties tend to have fewer buds; a 16-18cm bulb may have only two to three buds
A perennial Conca D'or; note the height and flower countYelloween: large flowers with a rich, fruity sweet fragrance6. LA hybrids - recommended
Pros: reproduce even more madly than Asiatic lilies, large flowers, some varieties lightly fragrant; these love to multiply bulbs like crazy and don't suffer bud blast as easily as Asiatic lilies
Cons: like Asiatic lilies, the flower shape is rather stiff, flowers easily deformed, flower count often lower than Asiatic lilies
Representative varieties: Red Alert, Diamond Party, etc.; basically you can pick any of them, there are no taboos
Potted Red Alert; compared with Asiatic lilies the flowers are larger and the leaves broader, the Longiflorum flower shape wasn't inherited, and the fragrance comes and goesRed Alert7. Edible lilies
The most common is usually the Chinese native species Lilium lancifolium (tiger lily), with tall slender plants and recurved petals; easy to grow, but not suited to indoors
Its ornamental value may not match the Dutch hybrids, but it is one of the parents of Asiatic lilies
A very distinctive recurved, downward-facing flower type
Sometimes passed off as fragrant lilies by unscrupulous sellers8. Double-flowered lilies
Divided into Asiatic and Oriental types, with the same characteristics and care as above; they resemble double amaryllis, with little of the lily character, prone to deformities and incomplete petal doubling3. Indoor Care
1. Light
Not very fussy; an enclosed balcony works too, and east, west or south exposures are all fine
At least 3 hours of direct light, 4-6 hours is better
The blazing sun of a west-facing exposure may scorch Oriental lily leaves, so moderate protection is needed
Note: when Asiatic lily buds are the size of a peanut, they absolutely must not lack light, or they'll blast
2. Soil, this is the most important; drainage and aeration are the top priority
I use peat and perlite, but the materials aren't limited to these; as long as it's loose, airy and light, it prevents bulb rot
Peat (sedge peat, sterilized potting soil, compost soil, coco coir): perlite (or various granular substrates) = 2:1 to 1:1
The soil near the bulb can have extra perlite mixed in, for extra peace of mind
Slow-release fertilizer/organic fertilizer can be evenly mixed into the soil; don't pile it all at the bottom of the bulb, as it won't be absorbed and easily causes bulb rot
3. Water
Except for Oriental lilies, which are best kept evenly moist, the other varieties are quite drought-tolerant (especially in the ground), so err on the side of less; it's fine to wait until the pot feels light or the surface soil is completely dry before watering
Each time you water, you can go by the weight of the pot; water thoroughly when it feels light
Signs of overwatering are bulb rot, large numbers of lower leaves yellowing and dropping, buds withering, and top leaves scorching yellow; if any one of these appears, be on alert
Underwatering rarely happens; the bulb and fleshy stem can both store water, so if you see wilting, suspect bulb rot first rather than lack of water
4. Fertilizer and bulb-building
Lilies like fertilizer, but use light, frequent feedings; heavy fertilizer causes leaf burn (scorched leaf tips, dead buds)
If growing as a one-time planting, no fertilizer is needed
If you want them to rebloom year after year, then fertilizing after flowering is important, mainly with nitrogen and potassium
Lily nutrient uptake ratio: nitrogen:phosphorus:potassium = 10:1:12, but phosphorus is easily fixed and hard to absorb, so using a 1:1:1 or 1:1:1.5 ratio fertilizer is fine
Remember light, frequent feedings; just add a little with each watering, no need for strong fertilizer; its fertilizer needs are lower than other bulbs
No fertilizer at sprouting; mainly nitrogen during rapid growth; mainly phosphorus and potassium when buds appear; no fertilizer during bloom; start bulb-building right after flowering, with the fertilizer ratios described above
5.pH
Oriental lilies prefer slightly acidic soil (5.5-6); peat is acidic enough on its own
Other varieties have no specific requirement
6. Temperature
Lilies are actually spring-planted bulbs: plant in spring, flower in summer, build the bulb in autumn, store in winter (for most of the country)
For the very hot and humid Guangdong and Guangxi region, as well as Hong Kong, China and Taiwan, China, you can consider cold storage in summer, planting in autumn, and flowers in winter and spring
When roots form in spring, keep the temperature around 12°C, which is best for stem root growth
In summer, protect against heat damage; lower temperatures extend the bloom period. OT is very heat-tolerant so it can bloom under the blazing sun, while Oriental lily flowers often wither quickly in the strongest sunlight
7. Dormancy
When winter temperatures are low (0-10°C) they go dormant (leaves drop, stems yellow; only then cut off the withered stems)
Ordinary Asiatic and Oriental lilies need a cold period of at least 1.5-3 months (4-5°C) before they can start the next year's growth
Lilies with Longiflorum (LO, LA, L) and Trumpet (T) genes can be planted year-round; no need to deliberately create a cold period, just keep winter temperatures below 20°C
Natural low temperatures can be replaced by refrigeration at 4°C
Heat-intolerant varieties may go dormant just 1-2 months after flowering, but early dormancy is bad for bulb-building and reblooming; even less should you cut off the stems and leaves right after flowering
Leaves dropping and dormancy starting early often means bulb rot or severely unfavorable conditions
8. How to plant
No need for a disinfecting soak
Keep the basal roots (the old roots at the bottom of the bulb) as much as possible; heavily rotted parts can be trimmed off
There should be at least 5cm of soil above the top of the lily bulb; space bulbs at least 2-3cm apart; the sprout tip should lean slightly toward the pot wall rather than the center of the pot
9. Planting depth
Lilies have two root layers; below the bulb are the basal roots (which can remain functional for several years) with a weaker absorption function; bulbs you receive often have basal roots that are rotted and broken, so don't worry
The base of a newly sprouted shoot produces several layers of dense, pure white roots called stem roots (annual); these are the main force for nutrient absorption, so the top of the bulb must not be placed at the soil surface
Moderately deep planting helps avoid heat damage and build the bulb
So the formula is drainage layer + 3-5cm bottom soil + bulb + 5-10cm cover soil, simple right~; the pot should be at least 15cm tall
Water thoroughly to settle the roots, then wait patiently; don't dig around; once the sprout breaks the surface, resume normal care
As shown in the pictureHere's an update on a beginner planting method: "adding soil in stages - different from the old method of adding all the soil at once"
I forgot to mention it earlier
When planting lilies for the first time, you can let the soil just cover the lily bulb, without covering it with more soil at first, leaving 8-10cm of space above the soil surface to add more soil later. Water thoroughly, wait for the sprout to emerge from the top of the bulb, then gradually add soil to the normal depth (5-10cm from the top of the bulb to the soil surface)
The advantage is that it satisfies everyone's curious and eager mindset, avoiding the worry of fearing the bulb won't sprout and wanting to dig it up but not daring to, and at the same time you can adjust the direction of the sprout as it grows, so it doesn't emerge from deep in the soil all crooked and unsightly; it's also easier to water thoroughly the first time. (For reference only; this method won't interfere with stem root growth)
10. After flowering and dormancy
After they open, the flowers can be cut for vase use; they generally fade in 5-7 days. You can also just enjoy them on the plant. Do not cut more than 1/3 of the plant's height (leave at least 2/3, and the more you leave the better, otherwise what will feed the bulb?). You can remove the stamens to prevent them from staining the petals.
After flowering, remove the spent flowers to prevent seed formation.
Try not to force dormancy; following the lily's own rhythm this way gives the best reblooming results and multiplication rate.
During dormancy, keep it in the original pot, with almost no watering; give a little water each month just to keep the peat slightly damp.
In hot summer regions, you can dig up the bulbs in spring and put them in the refrigerator, then plant in autumn.
Asiatic lilies and Oriental lilies will sprout new shoots around February-March of the following year when temperatures rise.
Trumpet lilies may also sprout in autumn; just let them grow and bloom naturally.
IV. Courtyard Cultivation
This is very simple.
Planting depth is 15cm-20cm in the north, and shallower as appropriate in the south.
Asiatic lilies can be grown throughout China.
Oriental lilies can be planted in the ground with confidence except in South China and Northeast China.
OT, LO and LA can be planted in the ground south of Liaoning.
Pure trumpet lilies can be planted in the ground south of the Yellow River.
In areas that are especially cold and have no snow cover, you can cover them with 5cm of branches, straw, compost, etc.; if there is snow, there is no need to fear they will be frostbitten.
Cold hardiness: A > LA >> LO = OT > O >> L
A late spring cold snap may damage newly sprouted lilies, so some covering protection is needed.
Be sure to deep-dig; for heavy clay soil, make raised beds, and add plenty of organic matter to help drainage (the key of keys). In hot, dry summers, water occasionally.
V. Lily Propagation Methods
1. Bulb division
When the main bulb grows to a certain size, the growth points naturally split into two to several attached bulbs (basically all of flowering size). This process starts after flowering and happens every year, and it is the simplest propagation method.
The propagation speed mentioned when introducing varieties refers to the speed of bulb division.
L=LA=A>LO=OT>>O
Oriental lilies may or may not divide each year, depending on cultivation and care; the first five types all divide very readily.
When the number of divided bulbs is too large and the shoots are overcrowded, you can break them apart by hand during winter dormancy; it is very simple and will not harm the bulbs.
Asiatic lilies may send up multiple shoots in the first year; such bulbs often bloom poorly, but after one year of growing they become several plants.
The growth point splits in two, with the remains of that year's old stem in the middle.2. Stem bulbs
These are actually small daughter bulbs produced on stem roots. Their number and quality are greatly related to the quality of the stem roots and how well the plant was grown that year. After 1-3 years they can reach flowering size.
They develop faster than bulbils and are equivalent to starting from the second growth stage of a bulbil (basal leaf --- stem --- flower).
Asiatic lilies, trumpet lilies, LA and LO are likewise outstanding at this type of propagation.
Especially LA, whose first-year stem bulbs are very likely to reach flowering bulb size.
The illustration shows small bulbs around the stem roots.3. Bulbils
After Asiatic lilies and Lilium lancifolium bloom, especially after bud abortion, small bulbs form at the base of the leaves on the plant; these are called bulbils. When mature they often root and drop off.
They develop in the soil; in the first year they only produce one grass-like leaf, then go dormant in winter, and in the second year they grow daughter bulbs and clustered leaves.
After dormancy again, in the third year they send up a stem and bloom. Although slow, they are produced in large numbers.
When mature they are purplish-black.4. Scales
This is very similar to propagating Hippeastrum by cutting the bulb. Remove healthy scales (or scales that have accidentally fallen off), insert them diagonally into sterilized, moist peat or vermiculite, and refrigerate. After one month they grow small bulbs, which can be planted separately. The multiplication rate is high but it is slow.
The development process is the same as for bulbils.5. Seeds - not recommended
Not recommended unless you are an enthusiast. Apart from native species such as trumpet lilies and Lilium regale that can be tried, most hybrids either have empty seed coats or grow slowly, and self-pollinated offspring will vary.
6. Cuttings - not recommended
Only applicable to Taiwan lily (Lilium formosanum) hybrids, which can root.
If the cut stems of LO and LA are kept moist, they can produce small bulbils that can be separated and planted, but the stems themselves are difficult to root.
It is basically useless for Oriental lilies and the like, so cut flowers from florists cannot be grown.
Lilies are monopodial monocots; once the terminal bud is damaged, that year's reproductive growth (flowering) stops. Therefore, absolutely do not try pinching or cuttings.
VI. Common Problems
Basically, growers' questions are concentrated on the first two items.
1. Bulb rot - control watering well; better dry than wet.
It is caused by fungi, with waterlogging as the main trigger. By the time it is noticed it is often too late. If the basal plate is intact, you can peel off the rotten scales and store them after disinfection.
Symptoms vary: yellowing leaf edges, dropping lower leaves, plant wilting that does not improve with watering, blackening buds on OT, LO, LA, etc., and obviously stalled growth are all very likely to be bulb rot.
2. Bud abortion
Common in Asiatic lilies, caused by insufficient light (continuous rainy weather, being kept indoors). The phenomenon is that small buds turn from green to brown and then wither; they will not bloom that year, so continue to grow the bulb well. In lilies without Asiatic blood, bud abortion is mainly caused by bulb rot.
3. Leaf scorch
Strong fertilizer or unrotted fertilizer can damage the roots, causing severe scorching of leaf tips and withering of buds. At this point, flush the potting soil with plenty of water, and if necessary repot and replace the soil. Oriental lilies are relatively prone to leaf scorch. Note that chloride and fluoride ions in water and fertilizer should be low (phosphate fertilizers such as superphosphate contain relatively more, so use with caution).
4. Breakage
Handle it the same as bud abortion: continue to grow the bulb. Lilies will not produce side branches, so a broken terminal bud means no bloom that year.
5. Yellowing and dropping of lower leaves
A common issue in lilies, especially severe in Oriental lilies and some Asiatic lilies, while LA, LO and OT show this phenomenon less obviously. If it is not serious it basically does not affect ornamental value, and it can serve as a reflection of the plant's health.
5. Pests
Not common; occasionally scale insects, Japanese beetles, aphids and the like attack, and snails may gnaw the buds. Pay attention to protection when planting in the ground.
6. Gray mold
Common in greenhouses with especially high humidity and during hot, rainy weather. Mold-like lesions appear on the leaves; spray with fungicide to eliminate them.
7. Off-season sprouting
For especially vigorous varieties such as trumpet lilies, new shoots may emerge in winter as dormancy approaches; let them grow.
8. Failure to sprout
This is what beginners fear most. Fortunately, unless it is due to bulb rot or shoot rot, this situation is rare; it is often because the bulb has not experienced enough cold to break dormancy.
In this case you can treat it in the refrigerator, and plant it once there are signs of sprouting.
9. Deformed shoots, double flowers
These often appear in cold-treated autumn bulbs and are related to excessively long cold treatment; they generally do not affect planting.
VII. Selecting, Buying and Storing
Each year suppliers have spring groups and autumn groups.
Spring is a good season to buy lilies. Now preorders are being taken in various places, with shipping periods in February-April.
The bulbs you buy are often fresh bulbs with very short shoots or no shoots.
In autumn, cold-treated bulbs (to break dormancy for autumn flowering) and pre-rooted bulbs (providing suitable temperatures in summer for stem root growth) are offered, with shipping periods in August-September and fewer varieties. They are recommended for indoor growing in the north and for the Guangdong-Guangxi region; when planted outdoors in the north they often dry up in the north wind before blooming.
When such bulbs arrive, the shoots are already very long and break easily, so never handle them roughly.
Lily bulbs do not store well because they have no protective outer skin; once dehydrated they die.
During winter dormancy they can be left in the original pot without being taken out; water once a month just to keep the potting soil slightly moist.
Those who must take them out of the pot can put moist peat in a plastic bag, remove the stems from the dug-up bulbs and bury them inside, then store in the refrigerator's chilled compartment (not the freezer!). When dormancy is broken and they sprout, take them out and plant.
VIII. Other
Pot use:
The bigger and deeper the pot the better, as long as drainage is smooth.
For home use:
Three 14-16cm bulbs can be planted in an 18cm pot.
Three 16-18cm bulbs can be planted in a 20cm pot.
You can also plant a single bulb in a 15cm-18cm pot.
This is the minimum for pot use; you can increase the pot diameter as appropriate. Do not use shallow pots, for the reasons already stated above.
Bulb size:
14-16cm bulbs are mainly L, A, LA and LO varieties.
Oriental lilies and OT generally need 16-18cm bulbs purchased to guarantee flower count.
Bulb circumference is greatly related to flower count. Generally flowering starts at 12-14cm, and 18-20cm is exhibition grade; trumpet lily types and OT types can be grown to 25cm circumference.
Plant height:
When first growing lilies, seeing data of 90, 100, 110, 120 or even 130cm seems terrifying.
But that is the mature plant height reached only after about two years of ground planting.
The plant height of potted lilies is far below the data values, and modern hybrids have very thick, sturdy stems, so even with large flowers and many flowers they will not lodge or break.
(In the first year, potted plants are about 1/2 to 2/3 of the standard height.)
Theoretically, strong light and moderately high temperatures make plants shorter and flowering earlier, while weak light and low temperatures elongate the stem and delay flowering.
Asiatic lilies take 70-90 days from planting to flowering, Oriental lilies 90-120 days, and the order for the remaining varieties starts with early A.
Please learn to grow lilies in a rough, easygoing way.
There are many lily-growing posts on forums now, but growers still treat them as too delicate: how to mix soil, how to disinfect, how to plant, how to water, whether to shade or sun them, all in exhaustive detail. Careful study is certainly good, but I think growing flowers should be a kind of leisure, focused on a calm and tranquil state of mind, rather than being filled with anxiety and worry. What meaning is there in growing flowers then?
Being too meticulous in care actually makes it especially easy to be over-industrious: you wish you could dig them up to look every day, water a little every day, and move them around constantly. The result is often too much water, rotten roots and no flowers.
In fact, under natural conditions there is often a lack of water and fertilizer, pests and diseases run rampant, heavy rain pours down and strong winds blow, yet lilies still bloom and set seed, grow and multiply year after year. If you ignore them, they can bloom very well.
★How to grow potted lilies
Growth habits: they like moisture and light, and require fertile, humus-rich, deep sandy soil with extremely good drainage. Most varieties are suitable for growing in slightly acidic to neutral soil. Specifically, there are the following points:
Lilies like cool, humid environments. Places with ample sunlight and slightly shaded environments are more suitable for lilies. They fear drought and extreme heat, and their cold hardiness is somewhat weaker.
The temperature for growth and flowering is 16-24°C. Below 5°C or above 30°C, growth almost stops; only above 10°C do plants grow normally, and above 25°C growth stalls again. If winter nighttime temperatures are below 5°C for 5-7 consecutive days, flower bud differentiation and bud development will be severely affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers.
They like fertile, deep soil rich in humus, and especially dislike hard clay; slightly acidic soil with good drainage is best, with a soil pH of 5.5-6.5.
How to grow potted lilies? Potted lily cultivation methods:
1. Cultivation time: potted lilies are best done in September-October.
2. Soil: the growing medium should be mixed with leaf mold, sand and garden soil in a 1:1:1 ratio, with plenty of fully rotted compost and a small amount of bone meal added at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer. The planting depth is generally about 2-3 times the diameter of the bulb.
The potting soil should not be too wet, otherwise the bulb easily rots. Potted lilies should be repotted once a year, replacing with new growing medium and base fertilizer.
3. Fertilizing: lilies do not have very high fertilizer requirements. Usually it is enough to apply fertilizer as appropriate when spring growth begins and at the early flowering stage. Some growers abroad believe that lilies need relatively more nitrogen and potassium fertilizer, and that during the growing period it should be applied once every 10-15 days, while phosphorus fertilizer should be limited, because too much phosphorus fertilizer causes yellowing leaves.
During the flowering period, phosphorus fertilizer can be added for 1-2 days. To make the bulb plump, promptly cut off spent flowers after blooming to reduce nutrient consumption. Watering only needs to keep the potting soil moist, but during the peak growing season and in dry weather it must be watered appropriately more often, and water should often be sprinkled around the pot to increase air humidity.
4. Temperature: the suitable growing temperature for lilies is 12-18°C. In winter, even if the temperature drops to 3-5°C, they will not die of cold.
5. Light: lilies have the characteristics of cold resistance, light preference, fertilizer tolerance and fear of wetness. Lack of sunlight and long-term shading will affect normal flowering. However, they have wide regional adaptability and can be planted in the ground or in pots in both north and south.
Since lilies are bulbous plants, they can also be planted directly from bulbs, and deep planting to 6-7cm is required so that lateral roots can penetrate deeply and absorb as many nutrients as possible. The growing medium needed is preferably sandy loam; clay and lime soil should not be used. If pond mud is used for planting, some river sand and crushed charcoal should also be mixed in appropriately, so that the medium is loose and breathable and can flower in due season.
In addition, during the lily growing period, the pot should also be turned once a week. Otherwise the plant tends to grow lopsided, affecting its appearance.
★Lily cultivation methods
Lilies are undoubtedly flowers that many growers love very much. Many growers want to plant them at home to beautify their rooms, but do not know how to grow lilies. Here is a brief introduction:
Lilies prefer cool, humid environments; locations with ample sunlight and slightly shaded conditions are more suitable for lilies. They dislike drought and intense heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat poor. The temperature for growth and flowering is 16-24°C. If the nighttime temperature in winter stays below 5°C for 5-7 consecutive days, flower bud differentiation and flower bud development will be severely affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers. Lilies prefer fertile, deep soil rich in humus and dislike hard clay most; well-drained, slightly acidic soil is best. Lily propagation methods include bulb division, scale cuttings, seed propagation, and tissue culture.
I. Growth Habits of Lilies
Lilies are bulbous flowers belonging to the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae. They prefer environments with ample sunlight and are long-day plants. Light duration not only affects flower bud differentiation but also affects flower growth and development. Lilies do not like high temperatures and prefer cool, humid climates. The optimal growth temperature for Asiatic lilies and Oriental lilies is 20-25°C during the day, while for Lilium longiflorum it is 25-28°C, with nighttime temperatures above 14°C. Temperatures above 30°C will severely affect lily growth and development, causing bud abortion and significantly reducing the flowering rate. Below 10°C, growth nearly stagnates.
II. Soil Requirements for Lilies
Lilies require soil that is rich in humus, deep and loose, able to retain appropriate moisture but also well-drained; sandy loam is best. Clay soil must never be used for planting lilies.
Lilies prefer slightly acidic soil. The suitable soil pH for Asiatic and Lilium longiflorum lilies is 6-7, and for Oriental lilies it is 5.5-6.5. Lilies are generally not salt-tolerant; the fluorine and chlorine content in the soil should both be below 50 mg/L, and the total soil salinity should not exceed 1.5 ms/cm.
III. Preparatory Work Before Planting
1. Soil disinfection: Before planting lilies, soil disinfection is required. Common disinfection methods include steam sterilization and chemical disinfection. Steam sterilization is rarely used now due to high energy consumption and cumbersome operation. Chemical disinfection uses
40% formalin diluted to 1:50 or 1:100 solution sprinkled on the soil at a rate of 2.5 kg per sq m. After sprinkling, cover with plastic film for 5-7 days, then uncover and let it air for 10-15 days before planting. Alternatively, carbendazim powder at 8-10 g/sq m can be mixed into the soil for disinfection.
2. Thawing and disinfection of bulbs: After the bulbs arrive, immediately open the packaging and place them in a 10-15°C environment for thawing. After complete thawing, disinfect them. Disinfection method: Soak the bulbs in a 0.1% aqueous solution of captan, chlorothalonil, carbendazim, or potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. Alternatively, soak the bulbs in an 80-fold diluted 40% formalin solution for 30 minutes. After removal, rinse off residual solution from the bulbs with clean water, then dry them in a cool place before planting. Some domestic planting bases cut off the original basal roots before planting to encourage new basal root growth.
3. Storage of bulbs: If thawed bulbs cannot be planted immediately, they must not be refrozen, otherwise there is a risk of frost damage. They can be stored at 0-2°C for a maximum of two weeks; they can also be stored at 2-5°C for a maximum of one week, and the plastic film packaging must be opened.
IV. Planting Depth and Density
For spring and summer planting, the planting depth requires the top of the bulb to be 8-10 cm below the soil surface; for winter planting, it is 6-8 cm. Planting density varies depending on the variety, bulb size, and seasonal factors. In spring and summer, planting can be denser; in winter, when sunlight is weaker, planting should be sparser.
Below is a table of planting densities (expressed as the number of bulbs per sq m) for different lily groups and bulb sizes, for your reference:V. Post-Planting Management
1. Temperature: To obtain high-quality lily cut flowers, temperature control in the greenhouse is very important. Within 3-4 weeks after planting, the soil temperature must be maintained at a low 9-13°C to promote rooting. Too low a temperature will unnecessarily prolong the growth period, while temperatures above 15°C will lead to poor stem root development. These stem roots will quickly replace the basal roots and supply 90% of the plant's water and nutrients, so the development of stem roots is critical for obtaining high-quality lilies. After the rooting period, the ambient temperature for Oriental lilies should be controlled at 15-25°C, and for Asiatic lilies and Lilium longiflorum at 14-23°C. If daytime temperatures are too high, ventilation and shading should be used to lower the temperature. If nighttime temperatures reach 15-25°C, lily cut flower stems will be short, flower buds fewer, and quality reduced. At this point, spraying plants with a gibberellin solution to increase stem length can be used (as practiced domestically); the specific dosage varies depending on different growth stages and different ambient temperatures, generally less in the early growth stage and more in the later stage. Domestic solar greenhouses generally have winter temperatures that prolong the lily growth period and severely affect cut flower quality; temperature regulation measures should be increased.
2. Humidity: The soil moisture before planting should be such that it forms a ball when squeezed and crumbles when dropped. In hotter seasons, if conditions permit, water once with cold water before planting to lower soil temperature. After planting, water again to ensure full contact between soil and bulbs, creating good conditions for stem root development. Subsequent watering should maintain soil moisture, meaning a handful of soil forms a ball but no water drips out. Watering is generally done on sunny mornings. Relative humidity should be 80%-85%, and large fluctuations in relative humidity should be avoided, otherwise leaf scorch may occur.
3. Fertilizer: In the early stage of growth, flowering lily bulbs mainly consume nutrients stored in their own scales, so excessive base fertilizer is not needed before planting. One month after planting, some fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing depending on soil fertility. Lilies have a high demand for potassium. A compound fertilizer can be prepared at a ratio of N-
P2O5-K2O=14:7:21. Apply 10 kg per mu each time, every 10-15 days, until 3 weeks before flower harvest. Attention should also be paid to supplementing trace elements such as iron, boron, and zinc.
4. Light: Light is an important condition for quality control, and lily flower bud development especially requires ample light. Insufficient light will cause poor plant growth and cause lily bud drop, lighter leaf and flower colors, and shortened vase life. When growing lilies in northern China in winter, due to the influence of glass or plastic film and other insulation materials, about 25-30% of sunlight is blocked. Therefore, in addition to keeping glass and plastic film surfaces clean for good light transmission, some varieties also need supplemental lighting, which can be provided by incandescent lamps. In good modern greenhouses, horticultural high-pressure sodium lamps should be used. When producing lilies in summer, strong direct sunlight should also be avoided, generally using shade nets for shading. Asiatic and Lilium longiflorum lilies are shaded 40%, and Oriental lilies are shaded 50%.
5. Carbon dioxide: Carbon dioxide is beneficial to lily growth and flowering. On sunny mornings at 8-10 o'clock, in an unventilated greenhouse, apply carbon dioxide gas pellets to increase the carbon dioxide content in the greenhouse. Other methods can also be used, for example: hang a plastic bucket every 15-20 m (at a height of 1 m from the ground), fill the bucket with 20% sodium bicarbonate solution (common household baking soda is sodium bicarbonate), then gradually pour the prepared 10% dilute sulfuric acid solution into each plastic bucket in 3-4 portions. Sodium bicarbonate reacts with sulfuric acid to produce carbon dioxide gas. A solar greenhouse 60 m long and 7 m wide requires 1.7 kg of pure sodium bicarbonate and 1 kg of concentrated sulfuric acid (98% concentration).
VI. Harvesting and Storage of Lily Cut Flowers
1. Harvesting: Harvest after at least 2-3 flower buds have shown color. Harvesting too early affects flower color; flowers will appear pale and unattractive, and some buds may not open. Harvesting too late will make post-harvest handling and packaging difficult, petals will be stained by pollen, and already-opened flowers will release ethylene, greatly shortening the vase life.
2. Handling: After harvesting, remove the lower 10 cm of leaves, then grade and bundle. A grading interval of 10 cm is appropriate. For lilies bundled in one bunch, the longest and shortest stems should preferably not differ by more than 5 cm, with flower tops aligned.
3. Storage: After bundling, lilies should be immediately placed in clean, pre-chilled water, then placed in a cold storage room. The water and cold storage room temperature should preferably be 2-3°C.
VII. Common Pests and Diseases of Lilies and Their Control Methods
1. Lily Fungal Diseases
(1) Penicillium Rot
Symptoms: During storage, white spots grow on rotting scale spots, then fluffy green-blue patches develop. After infection, even at low temperatures of -2°C, rotting will gradually increase. The pathogen will eventually invade the basal plate of the bulb, making the bulb worthless or causing stunted plant growth. Although infected bulbs may look unhealthy, as long as the basal plate remains intact, plant growth during cultivation will not be affected. After planting, the infection will not transfer to the stem, nor will it infect the plant from the soil.
Control: Store bulbs at the recommended minimum temperature; do not plant bulbs whose basal plates have been damaged. Infected bulbs must be soaked in a 0.1% aqueous solution of captan, chlorothalonil, carbendazim, or other fungicides for 30 minutes before planting. After planting, maintain appropriate soil temperature.
(2) Bulb and Scale Rot and Stem Diseases Caused by Fusarium
Symptoms: Plants with bulb and scale rot grow very slowly, and leaves are pale green. Underground, brown spots appear at the top of scales, on the sides, or where scales connect to the basal plate. These spots gradually begin to rot. If the basal plate stem is infected, the entire bulb will rot. Fusarium-caused stem diseases are diseases that infect the above-ground parts. The identifying sign is that basal leaves turn yellow before maturity, and yellowed leaves turn brown and drop off. On the underground part of the stem, orange to dark brown spots appear, which later expand and eventually extend into the stem interior. The stem then rots, and the plant eventually dies before maturity.
Control: a. Disinfect infected soil; b. Plant mildly or moderately infected bulbs as quickly as possible, and soil temperature should be low.
(3) Rhizoctonia
Symptoms: If the infection is mild, it only harms leaves in the soil and green leaves below young shoots, with sunken light brown spots appearing on the leaves. Generally, although plant growth is somewhat affected, it can still continue to grow. In severely infected plants, upper growth is hindered, and white underground leaves as well as the lowest above-ground leaves will rot or wilt and fall off, leaving only brown scars on the stem.
Control: Disinfect soil suspected of infection with a soil disinfectant. After disinfection, ensure the soil is no longer infected. If the previous crop has shown infection, general soil disinfectants cannot be used; in that case, pre-treat the soil with a rhizoctonia-control agent before planting (thoroughly incorporated into the soil to a depth of 10 cm).
(4) Phytophthora
Symptoms: Phytophthora foot rot will hinder growth or cause sudden wilting. Soft rot occurs at the infected area at the stem base, becoming dark green to dark brown, and spreads upward. Leaves turn yellow, and discoloration begins at the stem base. Similar soft rot infections often occur on the above-ground stem, causing stem damping-off or bending.
Control: Disinfect infected soil with a general soil disinfectant. During cultivation, fungicides that control Pythium can also effectively control foot rot. Ensure good soil drainage. Prevent the crop from remaining wet for extended periods after watering. In summer, soil temperature should be as low as possible.
(5) Pythium
Symptoms: This type of fungus attacks both individual plants and plants in an area. Plants are stunted, lower leaves turn yellow, upper leaves become narrower and lighter in color, and often wilt. Plants affected by root rot have shriveled flower buds. When plants are pulled up, transparent, light brown rotting spots can be seen on the bulb and root crown, or they have completely softened and rotted.
Control: Disinfect infected or suspected infected soil with a general soil disinfectant. Maintain low soil temperature in the early cultivation period, and adopt correct cultivation practices throughout the cultivation period. Cultivation in boxes with potting soil and peat can control Pythium.
After the crop has emerged or when Pythium infection may have occurred, fungicides for Pythium control that can be easily sprayed onto the crop can be used, preferably in the evening. Spraying water for a few minutes (about three minutes) before applying the fungicide will significantly enhance the fungicide's effect and can also rinse the crop clean.
2. Abnormal Phenomena
(1) Leaf Scorch
Symptoms: First, young leaves curl slightly inward. After a few days, yellow to white spots appear on the scorched leaves. If leaf scorch is mild, the plant can continue normal growth, but if leaf scorch is severe, white spots can turn brown, and leaves bend at the damaged areas. In very severe cases, all leaves and young shoots will drop off, and the plant will not develop further; this is called the most severe scorch. Control: The soil should be moist before planting. It is best not to use susceptible varieties. Planting depth should be appropriate, with 6-10 cm of soil above the bulb. During periods of increased sensitivity, avoid large differences in temperature and relative humidity in the greenhouse, and try to maintain relative humidity at around 75%.
(2) Bud Drop and Bud Shriveling
Symptoms: Bud drop occurs when flower buds grow to 1-2 cm. The bud color turns pale green, and at the same time, the pedicel connecting to the stem shortens, after which the bud drops. In spring, lower buds are affected first, while in autumn, upper buds will drop first.
Control: Do not cultivate varieties prone to bud drop in poorly lit environments. To prevent bud shriveling, bulbs must not dry out during cultivation. Ensure the bulb root system is good and let them grow under conditions as suitable as possible, with particular attention to light and transpiration.
★How to Grow Potted Lilies
How to grow potted lilies is something many gardening enthusiasts who want to grow lilies themselves want to know. Many articles online are very theoretical, leaving gardeners uncertain. So let us use a practical case to explain in detail how to grow potted lilies.
First, a brief introduction: Lilies are perennial herbaceous bulbous plants of the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae, mainly distributed in temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere such as eastern Asia, Europe, and North America. More than a hundred varieties have been discovered worldwide. China is its most important center of origin, with over fifty native species, and is the natural distribution center of the genus Lilium.
I. Materials needed for planting lilies are as follows:
1. Soil: Lilies are not very demanding about soil, as long as it does not waterlog. Ordinary garden soil is also suitable; of course, nutrient soil is even better, and for the particular, peat is also perfectly fine.
2. Pot: This needs attention. Lily roots are relatively well-developed, so a relatively deep and large pot is suitable; small pots are not suitable! In the case below, a 2-gallon pot is used.
3. Location choice: Some gardeners may ask if a balcony with no light at home is okay, or if they plan to grow them on a rooftop terrace. Here it should be mentioned that lilies prefer cool, humid environments; locations with ample sunlight and slightly shaded conditions are more suitable for lilies. They dislike drought and intense heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat poor. The temperature for lily growth and flowering is 16-24°C. Below 5°C or above 30°C, growth almost stops. Plants only grow normally above 10°C, and growth stagnates again above 25°C. If the nighttime temperature in winter stays below 5°C for 5-7 consecutive days, flower bud differentiation and flower bud development will be severely affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers.
II. First, a Visual Treat
The bulbs in the picture below are lily bulbs just received a few days ago. They look pretty good, right! A total of five were purchased; I won't post them all one by one. Hundreds of gardening enthusiasts on the forum have grouped together to buy them!III. Planting Process
First: I plan to divide my 5 bulbs into 2 flower pots for planting. First I checked the colors of the bulbs: Siberia has 2 (this is because another variety was originally detained by customs and these were substitutes), white; Marlon is pink; Yelloween is yellow; Tiber is also pink. I plan to plant Siberia and Marlon in white flower pots, and the other three in 2+ pots, so they will look brilliant when blooming.
Second: First clean the flower pots thoroughly, lay breathable coarse coal cinder at the bottom, and cover with soil.
Third: Sprinkle some phosphate fertilizer on the soil (bone meal can also be used as a substitute). If you don't have bone meal, chicken manure can also be used as a substitute to ensure nutrition for flowering.
Fourth: Cover with soil again. After covering, sprinkle carbendazim. (I carefully checked the root bulbs and found no mold. Gardeners who receive diseased root bulbs can soak the root bulbs in carbendazim before planting.)
Fifth: Cover with soil again and place the root bulbs in. You can use scissors to cut off dried roots, then cover with soil. Generally, the soil can be level with the upper bud of the root bulb. Leave some distance between the soil surface and the pot rim for future soil filling. This depth is not enough.
Sixth: Water thoroughly, then place in an open, cool, shaded area.IV. Troubleshooting During the Planting Process
Overall, lilies are very easy to grow. As long as the bulbs are bought correctly, the flowering and survival rate is almost 100%. The growth period generally ranges from about 90-150 days depending on the variety.
1. How many lilies can be planted in one pot?
It depends on the size of the pot. For a 2-gallon pot with a diameter of about 25 cm, planting 1-3 is fine!
2. Can lilies rebloom?
Whether lilies rebloom mainly depends on the first year of planting. If planted well in the first year, reblooming in the second year is no problem.
3. Are lilies very fragrant?
Different lily varieties have different fragrance intensities. Whether a specific one is fragrant can be determined by the variety description at the time of purchase.
★Lily Flower Cultivation Techniques
Authors: Zhu Yunyi, Yang Ming
Lily is a bulbous herbaceous plant of the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae. Lily stems are upright and elegant, leaves are emerald green, flower shapes are unique, flowers are large and colorful, and the colors are elegant. Lilies symbolize a harmonious union lasting a hundred years and are very beloved. They are one of the bulbous flowers widely cultivated both domestically and abroad. The introduction and cultivation of lilies in China are gradually expanding, and market sales are increasingly active.
I. Morphological Characteristics
Lilies are perennial herbaceous plants. The bulb is a non-tunicate bulb, spherical in shape, pale white, formed by the aggregation of several fleshy, thick, ovate-spatulate scales. The stem is erect; underground stem nodes have stem roots; the stem is cylindrical or rhombic. The above-ground stem is upright and robust, green and smooth, with a stem diameter of 3-10 mm and a plant height of 70-200 cm. Leaves are scattered or alternate, sessile, lanceolate to elliptic-lanceolate, entire, with a total of more than 100 leaves. Flowers are borne singly in several leaf axils at the top of the stem, with 1-10 flowers. Flowers are large, trumpet-shaped, with different colors and fragrances depending on the variety.
II. Requirements for Environmental Conditions
1. Temperature. Lilies prefer warm and sunny environments, are relatively cold-tolerant, and fear high temperatures, strong light, and high humidity. The optimal growth temperature for lilies is 15-25°C. Below 10°C, growth is slow; above 30°C, growth is poor and leaf scorch occurs. During growth, daytime temperatures of 21-23°C and nighttime temperatures of 15-17°C are best. However, bulbs have a dormant period and must be stored at 3-7°C for 4-6 weeks to break bulb dormancy before planting will result in sprouting.
2. Light. Lilies prefer soft light and also tolerate strong light and partial shade. Insufficient light will cause flower bud drop. With ample light, plants are robust, shorter, and flowers are vivid. Lilies are long-day plants; longer light leads to earlier flowering, and shorter light delays flowering.
3. Water. When planting lily bulbs, fill the furrows with water to 3/4, allowing water to fully penetrate the bed surface. Thereafter, when lacking water, irrigate with running water, maintaining soil moisture at all times. This can increase the bulb sprouting rate, produce uniform sprouts, and benefit stem and leaf growth.
4. Nutrients. Lilies are bulbous cut flower plants that prefer phosphorus and potassium and dislike excessive nitrogen. Sufficient phosphorus and potassium help improve flower quality and bulb formation and plumpness. Excessive nitrogen is unfavorable for flower and bulb formation, resulting in poor flower quality. Fertilization should be mainly organic fertilizer, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, with nitrogen as a supplement.
III. Cultivation Techniques
1. Reasonably arrange the planting period. At present, lilies are planted in Hunan, Sichuan, Henan, Jiangsu, Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangxi, Zhejiang, Guangdong, and other places in China. We should make full use of the unique winter climate conditions in the south and arrange the harvest period from late December to May 1, avoiding competing with lilies grown in other provinces for the market, striving to sell at a good price and obtain greater income and better economic benefits. Lilies generally take 80-130 days from planting to harvest and market. Early planting (such as before the Autumn Equinox) means high temperatures, long sunshine, and strong light, shortening the time from planting to harvest. Late planting (such as after Cold Dew) means low temperatures, short sunshine, and weak light, extending the time from planting to harvest. If aiming for a Christmas market, plant in mid-to-late September; for a Spring Festival market, plant in mid-to-late October.
2. Select land, prepare the soil finely, and apply sufficient base fertilizer. Choose plots with deep soil layers, loose and fertile soil, high terrain, and good drainage for planting. Planting lilies in semi-shaded, semi-sunny plots with slightly acidic soil is even better. Lilies should not be continuously cropped; plots previously planted with peppers, eggplants, and other crops should not be selected. Leguminous or gramineous crops are preferable as previous crops.
3. Build frames and cover with shade nets for shading. To meet the light, temperature, and humidity requirements of lilies during growth, lilies prefer soft light (partial shade) and fear high temperatures and strong light. After preparing the land and making beds, frames should be built and shade nets covered before bulbs sprout. Shade nets with 70-80% shading are best. For plantings from April to August, an additional layer of shade net should be added to reduce field temperature and light intensity, increase field humidity, avoid or reduce damage to plant leaves from high temperatures and strong light, and promote leaf growth. However, when the daytime maximum temperature drops to 26°C (generally in early December), the shade nets should be removed to increase light intensity and promote leaf growth. When the average temperature falls below 10°C, nylon film should be covered again to increase temperature and retain moisture, ensuring normal lily growth and harvest at the expected flowering time.
4. Reasonable close planting. Since lilies tolerate partial shade, they can be planted more densely on the basis of sufficient base fertilizer. Generally, 12,000-18,000 bulbs can be planted per mu, with a plant-row spacing of 15-20 × 10-15 cm. The planting depth of bulbs is 10 cm (at least the height of 3 bulbs) to prevent sunlight from burning the root system. After planting, spray butachlor immediately to prevent early weeds in the field.
5. Field management. After full sprouting, before seedlings grow to 20 cm, in combination with cultivating and weeding, apply 500 kg of human and animal manure and 10 kg of superphosphate per mu, or apply 10-15 kg of high-quality compound fertilizer (containing 15% each of nitrogen, P2O5, and K2O) plus 5 kg of urea. The fertilizer solution concentration should be dilute rather than concentrated; too high a concentration easily damages roots and inhibits growth. Apply frequently and thinly, once every 8-10 days. When topdressing, avoid the fertilizer solution directly contacting bulbs and stems to prevent bulb and stem rot. If the fertilizer solution splashes onto the leaves, spray clean water immediately after applying the fertilizer solution to wash off the fertilizer solution on the leaves, so as not to damage leaves and plants. However, when winter temperatures drop below 8°C, fertilization should be stopped and resumed when temperatures rise. After lily sprouts emerge, deep cultivation and weeding should no longer be done to avoid damaging the root system. Weeds should be pulled as soon as seen to prevent weed damage.
6. Water management. Since lilies prefer moisture, fear waterlogging, and dislike drought, ditches should be frequently cleared to drain accumulated water on rainy days, and irrigation should be done during drought to maintain moisture. Ensure that after people walk through the furrow pits, footprints remain (but feet do not sink). The bed surface topsoil should not appear white; the topsoil between beds should form a ball when grabbed by hand; when a mud ball is released from a height of one meter above the ground, it should fall apart loosely.
7. Timely prevention and control of pests and diseases. Lilies have relatively few pests and diseases. Main diseases include anthracnose, gray mold, damping-off, root rot, and bulb rot. Anthracnose can be controlled with chlorothalonil, Score, Rovral, anthracnose Fumei, etc. Gray mold can be controlled with mancozeb, procymidone, 50% iprodione, chlorothalonil, or 1% Bordeaux mixture. For damping-off, first remove diseased plants, then control with 1% Bordeaux mixture, chlorothalonil, Tuzet, etc. For root rot and bulb rot, mix seeds with 0.5% quintozene before planting to prevent disease occurrence. In the early stage of disease, drench or spray with 50% amobam 300-500 times solution. For lily disease control, spray once every 7-10 days, for 2-3 consecutive sprays. Main pests include aphids and white grubs. Aphids and white grubs often gather on tender leaves and flower buds to suck sap, causing plants to shrivel and grow poorly. They can be controlled with fenvalerate, omethoate, buprofezin, Dagongshen, etc. When controlling pests and diseases, it is best to add some foliar fertilizer, which both controls pests and diseases and promotes leaf growth.
8. Timely harvest of bulbs. When the underground bulbs have enlarged and become plump and full, and the above-ground leaves have yellowed or even dried and dropped, the bulbs can be harvested. Keep the root system on the harvested bulbs, clean off loose soil, stack them by grade, and later package them for low-temperature treatment in cold storage.
★Cultivation Techniques for Oriental Lilies
With the improvement of people's living standards, flower sales are increasing. In 2007, we introduced Oriental lilies in small quantities for cultivation and achieved success. The cultivation techniques are described below:
1 Soil Preparation
Deeply plow the soil 30 cm, apply 2-3 m3 of peat or decomposed fallen pine needles per 667 sq m, 3-5 kg of ferrous sulfate, and 500-1000 kg of organic fertilizer such as expanded chicken manure, to make the soil pH slightly acidic at 6-6.5. Also add 1.5-2.5 kg of thiram or 2000-3000 ml of soil fungicide for disinfection.
2 Bed Making
Make raised beds 20 cm high and 80-100 cm wide, with a 40 cm walkway between two beds, and the length depending on the land.
3 Planting
The planting time should be determined by two indicators: the flower supply time and the growth cycle of the variety. Be sure to use bulbs whose dormancy period has passed. The dormancy period varies by variety. Generally, after leaves turn yellow and bulbs are lifted, they can break dormancy in 80-120 days in a 0-4°C environment. For bulb disinfection, mix with carbendazim at 5-10 g/kg, or soak in a 2% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 10 minutes before planting. When planting, first push aside about 8 cm of topsoil on the bed surface to one side, then use a nail board or tree roots measured to size to punch holes at set distances. Generally, for medium-sized bulbs, the spring and autumn density is 13 cm × 13 cm; for large bulbs, increase by 1 cm; for small bulbs, decrease by 1 cm. In winter, spacing should be slightly larger; in summer, plant more densely. Generally, about 20,000 bulbs are planted per 667 sq m. After punching holes, place the bulbs on the holes, then fill back the bed surface soil that was pushed aside, and rake level.
4 Water Management
After planting, water thoroughly with drip irrigation or sprinkler irrigation. Except in summer, flood irrigation is prohibited. Thereafter, water the seedbed whenever it dries, until it connects with the lower moist soil. Avoid waterlogging to prevent root rot. In very dry weather, spray water on the leaves to maintain relative air humidity at around 70%.
5 Temperature Management
After bulb planting, it takes 20-30 days to emerge. During this period, the temperature should be around 12°C to facilitate rooting. After emergence, raise the temperature, otherwise it is prone to infection by multiple diseases. Therefore, in winter production, use oil furnaces or small boilers for heating; in summer, use shade nets or ground mulching to lower the temperature.
6 Light Management
When planting lilies in winter, try to choose day-neutral lilies rather than long-day lilies. In spring, summer, and autumn, long-day varieties can also be used. Lilies prefer light and do not tolerate shade. Supplemental lighting in winter results in better growth; if not supplementing light, open straw curtains as early as possible and cover them late to extend light duration. In summer, if a 30% shading shade net can be used to block part of the strong light, it will help lilies grow faster and enlarge flowers.
7 Nutrition Management
Start topdressing after seedlings grow stems and leaves unfold. Apply chemical fertilizer once every 10-15 days, mixing 4-5 kg each of diammonium phosphate and potassium nitrate per 667 sq m. When plants are 60 cm tall, spray 2%-3% monopotassium phosphate on the leaves every 7-10 days. If the overall leaf surface turns yellow, spray 0.5% urea; if small leaves turn yellow, spray 0.1% ferrous sulfate, while adding trace fertilizers such as copper and zinc. When flower buds are 6 cm long, stop topdressing.
8 Pest and Disease Control
The main lily diseases include black spot, gray mold, and rust, which can be controlled by spraying 25% carbendazim wettable powder 500 times solution. Pests include white grubs and aphids, which can be controlled by spraying 25% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate 1000 times solution.
★Open-Field Cultivation Techniques for Lilies
Open-field cultivation is also a common production method for cut flower lilies. It has the advantages of low production cost and simple cultivation management, but the disadvantages of open-field cultivation are also obvious: the flowering period is not easy to control, and low product quality is the main factor affecting open-field production of cut flower lilies.
1. Land Selection
For open-field lily cultivation, choose land with high, well-drained terrain, good drainage, and loose soil. High-altitude cool mountainous areas or areas by lakes, rivers, and peninsulas are ideal locations for growing lilies. Northwest Yunnan Province, Xichang in Sichuan, the Qinba Mountains in Shaanxi, Anshan in Liaoning, and Lanzhou in Gansu in China can all serve as bases for open-field production of lily cut flowers.
Soil Improvement
Generally speaking, the soil used for producing lilies does not occupy as vast an area as that for grain crops. If the soil texture is unsuitable, local soil replacement can be used to create a suitable soil environment. When locally replacing soil for a lily plot, first dig out the original soil in the rows where lilies will be planted, and add soft, good soil media. So-called soil media refer to artificially prepared materials that replace soil. Commonly used soil media include pine needle soil, peat, fermented wood chips, vermiculite, perlite, etc. Mix these materials with soil in a certain proportion and fill them into the planting furrows for lilies, then plant the lilies. In addition, attention should be paid to measuring the soil pH of the cultivation site.
How to improve soil pH: 6 weeks before planting, take soil samples for analysis to determine salt and oxide content, pH, and nutrient content. If salt and chlorine content exceed standards, large amounts of irrigation water must be used to dilute the salts in the soil. Maintaining the correct pH helps lily roots absorb nutrients from the soil. Mixing peat soil with topsoil and applying it can lower pH; using ammonium fertilizers and urea can also lower pH. In addition, mixing a small amount of sulfur powder or ferrous sulfate into the soil can also help lower soil pH. If the soil pH is too low, mix lime-containing compounds or magnesium-containing lime with the soil before planting. After using lime, wait at least 1 week before planting. During the growth stage, it is best to use nitrate nitrogen fertilizer, which can raise pH.
2. Crop Rotation
To prevent the massive occurrence of lily pests and diseases, crop rotation should be implemented. Before planting, unified planning should be made for the land. All plots planted with cut flower lilies should be rotated every year. During rotation, the previous crop should not be bulbous flowers of the Liliaceae or Amaryllidaceae families; leguminous plants are most suitable.
Base Fertilizer
The base fertilizer applied before planting lilies is generally an organic fertilizer with long-lasting effect. There are two ways to prepare the base fertilizer: one is to mix the soil with 1/3 of various humus fertilizers (organic fertilizer made from a mixture of decomposed leaf mold, compost, peat, cake fertilizer, etc.) to form a 30cm deep trench, first spread the above mixed soil in the trench, then plant the lilies. Lilies planted in this mixed soil generally grow better. The mixed soil not only improves the soil but also achieves the purpose of applying base fertilizer.
3. Planting
Planting period: Lilies grown in the open field are mostly planted in autumn, while cold regions adopt spring planting.
Taking the climatic conditions of Beijing as an example, the lowest temperature in January in winter is generally 8-15°C, and most cut-flower lilies can overwinter in the open field. Summer is relatively hot, with the highest temperature in July reaching 33-36°C. Therefore, lilies are in a semi-dormant period during this time. According to the climatic characteristics of Beijing, lilies can be planted in autumn or spring. Autumn planting is generally carried out in September-October when the temperature drops noticeably. Lilies planted in autumn develop good root systems, grow robustly, and produce more flowers the following year. Spring planting is generally carried out in March-April when the temperature begins to rise. They sprout in April-May and bolt and form buds in May-June. From mid-June to the end of July is the peak flowering season for open-field cut-flower lilies.
The flowering periods of autumn-planted and spring-planted lilies differ little, but the stem height and flower number of spring-planted lilies are inferior to those of autumn-planted lilies.
Topdressing
For open-field cultivation of lilies, topdressing should be carried out in the early growth stage, late growth stage and bud stage respectively. In the early growth stage, apply 37.5kg of diammonium phosphate and 75kg of urea per hectare; in the late growth stage, apply 75kg of diammonium phosphate and 22.5kg of potassium dihydrogen phosphate per hectare. The application method is to dissolve the above fertilizers in water and pour. In the bud stage, apply 22.5kg of potassium sulfate, 30kg of potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.3kg of boric acid per hectare, sprayed on the leaves at 0.1%.
Irrigation
Open-field cultivated lilies can obtain part of their water from natural rainfall, but because it is often untimely, it is far from meeting the needs of normal plant growth and development, especially in dry seasons, when timely irrigation is even more important. For open-field cultivation of lilies, methods such as flood irrigation, sprinkler irrigation and drip irrigation can be chosen according to local conditions. Flood irrigation is to introduce water directly onto the bed surface, which causes soil compaction. Sprinkler irrigation distributes water evenly and can increase air humidity. Drip irrigation uses a low-pressure pipe system to make irrigation water into droplets, slowly and continuously infiltrating the soil within the range of the plant's root activity. Modern cut-flower cultivation often combines sprinkler and drip irrigation, with sprinkler irrigation creating an air humidity environment suitable for plant growth, and drip irrigation supplying the water needed for the plant's root activity. The amount, frequency and timing of irrigation often vary according to the season, soil quality and cultivated variety. As for the amount of water per irrigation, the principle should be to water thoroughly and moderately. In summer, the temperature is high and evaporation is large, so the frequency of irrigation should be greater; in autumn and early [season], the water requirement is small, so watering should be minimized, and one freezing water should be applied before the soil freezes. Clay soil should be watered less frequently, while sandy soil should be watered more frequently. During the day, in summer, watering should be done in the morning and evening, when the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is small and will not affect root activity.
4. Intertillage and Weeding
In open-field cultivation of lilies, the soil tends to become compacted after rainfall or watering, which is not conducive to root growth. In addition, because weeds have strong reproductive capacity, they will grow together with lily plants and compete for water, nutrients, sunlight and space, and can also cause pests and diseases in lily plants. Therefore, timely intertillage and weeding must be carried out to create a good living environment for the growth of lily plants.
Intertillage should be carried out in combination with loosening the soil after irrigation. The depth of intertillage should be: shallow hoeing at the seedling stage to prevent root damage; shallow hoeing near the plants, and deep hoeing in the rows far from the plants. When the lilies grow luxuriantly and the field rows close, there is no need to loosen the soil anymore.
Weeding should be carried out as early as possible at the initial stage of weed occurrence, and must be completely cleared before the weeds set seed. As for weeding methods, manual weeding is mainly used for small areas, while mechanical weeding or chemical weeding can be used for large areas.
5. Netting and Staking
Open-field cultivated lilies are often vulnerable to adverse weather such as wind, rain and hail, so nets and stakes must be set up in time to prevent the plants from lodging.
6. Topdressing
Lily is a potassium-loving crop. According to nutritional analysis of Yixing lily plants at various growth stages, K2O content is the highest in all cases. The average content in aboveground stems and leaves at various growth stages is 3.76%, which is 5.55 times the K2O5 content and 1.59 times the N content. The average K2O content in underground bulbs at various growth stages is 2.16%, which is 4.48 times the K2O content and 1.59 times the N content. The seedling stage is the period with the highest K2O content among all growth stages, with 4.70% in stems and leaves and 2.88% in bulbs. As for the proportions of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in lily plants at various growth stages, the periods with the highest K2O proportion in aboveground stems and leaves and bulbs are both the middle and late growth stages of the lily, namely the bulbil harvesting stage and the full flowering stage (the initial decline stage of aboveground stems and leaves). The proportions of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in aboveground stems and leaves are 1:0.20:1.98 and 1:0.22:2.22 respectively; the proportions of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in bulbs are 1:0.41:1.79 and 1:0.34:1.66. The traditional cultivation of Yixing lily involves covering with rice straw and applying organic fertilizers such as pig manure and cake fertilizer, which can supply large amounts of potassium. Generally, about 450kg of dry rice straw is covered per mu. Experiments have shown that if rice straw is not covered, the yield will decrease by 14.48%. Applying more potassium fertilizer to lilies can promote root development during overwintering and growth at the seedling stage, and meet the peak potassium demand of lily plants in the middle and late stages. Potassium can promote the synthesis and transport of carbohydrates in the crop. When potassium supply is sufficient, the content of lignin, cellulose and starch in lily plants increases, and the carbohydrates formed by photosynthesis are quickly transported to the bulbs, promoting bulb expansion. Experiments show that applying 15kg, 10kg of potassium sulfate and 75kg of plant ash per mu generally increases yield by 10% compared with the control. Among them, the yield with plant ash ranks first. Applying potassium fertilizer in potassium-deficient fields increases yield even more significantly, with the highest increase of 54.29%, and each kilogram of potassium sulfate can increase lily yield by 32.76kg. While lilies emerge, new daughter bulbs also differentiate and develop in the heart buds of the seed bulbs, so it is necessary to promote strong seedlings and early growth in the early stage. After repeated experiments, the fertilizer management of lilies should adhere to the principle of "heavy at the front, controlled in the middle, supplemented at the end" and the fertilization method of two "mainly", that is, mainly organic fertilizer, applied at planting time and before emergence, accounting for more than 70% of the total fertilizer application. Generally, the base fertilizer per mu covers 450kg of dry rice straw, 2.5 tons of high-quality pig manure, 50-75kg of decomposed cake fertilizer, 30kg of standard nitrogen fertilizer, 20-30kg of phosphate fertilizer, and 15-20kg of potassium fertilizer. When hilling soil before emergence, apply 50kg of cake fertilizer, 15kg of standard nitrogen fertilizer, 10kg of phosphate fertilizer, and 15kg of potassium fertilizer per mu (or 30-40kg of three-element compound fertilizer alone). If there is no potassium fertilizer, 100kg of plant ash can be applied. The total fertilizer application for Yixing lily with a yield of more than 1000kg per mu is 42.7kg of pure nitrogen, 514.1kg of K2O and 56.2kg of K2O, with a nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium ratio of 1:0.33:1.32. Experiments with different amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium chemical fertilizers show that the optimal application rate of chemical nitrogen fertilizer is 6kg of K2O5 per mu, and chemical potassium K2O is 7.5-22.5kg. The suitable soil pH for lily growth is pH 5.7-6.3. The soil in the Taihu Lake area is generally neutral to slightly acidic, with pH between 6.5 and 5.0. The results of experiments with different types of phosphate fertilizer show that calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer is better than superphosphate. Lily bulbs are tender, and under the influence of the free acid in superphosphate, the rate of rotting and missing plants in lilies increases, and disease is severe, with an incidence rate as high as 60% and a disease index as high as 52.5%, reducing yield by 4.6% compared with applying calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer, and the bulb color is also poor. On alkaline soil with pH above 7.5, applying superphosphate can appropriately adjust soil pH and benefit lily growth.
★ Cultivation of Oriental Lilies
Oriental lilies, namely Oriental lilies, are one of the ten most popular flowers in the world today. Because of their beautiful flower shape, bright colors and overflowing fragrance, they are ideal materials for gift bouquets, flower baskets and artistic flower arrangements. Since China's reform and opening up, they have developed rapidly. Especially in recent years, due to the sharp increase in the use of fresh flowers in China, their planting area has continued to expand, and Oriental lilies have become an indispensable category among fresh flowers. Their cultivation techniques are introduced as follows:
I. Site Selection, Bed Preparation, Disinfection
(1) Site selection. Because Oriental lily bulbs degenerate quickly and have strict requirements for the cultivation environment, areas suitable for planting are difficult to find, so the selection of the planting site is also of paramount importance. Oriental lilies prefer cool, humid climates and semi-shaded environments. The soil requires deep, loose, well-drained, slightly acidic soil rich in humus.
(2) Bed preparation. The bed surface is generally prepared to a width of 1-1.2 m and a height of 25-30 cm, with a ditch width of 40 cm between beds. Before preparing the beds, apply 1-1.3 tons of humus soil or pig manure to each simple greenhouse (30 m €?.5 m), sprinkle 2 kg of carbofuran or phoxim (used to kill underground pests), water to loosen the soil and mix it thoroughly.
(3) Disinfection. Because Oriental lilies are highly susceptible to stem rot, phytophthora blight, leaf blight and gray mold, prevention should be the priority, starting with the soil. The commonly used methods are steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. a. Steam disinfection: bury heat-resistant plastic pipes with small holes 30 cm below the bed surface, cover the bed surface with film, then introduce steam and fumigate continuously for 1 hour. b. Chemical disinfection: generally use 40% formalin prepared as a 1:50 solution and splash it on the bed surface at a rate of 25-30 kg/M. After splashing, cover with plastic film for 2 days, then uncover the film and sun-dry for 10 days. Planting can only be done after the chemical vapor has completely dissipated.
II. Cultivation Management
(1) Treatment of bulbs. Before planting, pick the bulbs out of the bulb boxes. They should be handled gently to prevent breaking the buds. At the same time, check the quality of the bulbs and remove unqualified bulbs such as those with broken buds or rot, or with rotten scales or basal plates. Soak the bulbs in a 500-800 times solution of fungicides such as thiophanate-methyl or chlorothalonil, carbendazim for 15-20 minutes.
(2) Planting time. In order to bloom at Spring Festival and Valentine's Day, planting should generally be done in mid-October and early November. It is advisable to plant before 10 a.m. or after 4 p.m.
(3) Planting density and depth. The plant spacing is generally 10-15 cm, and the row spacing is 15-18 cm; as for depth, the planting depth is about 6-8 cm above the bud point. After planting, a layer of wood shavings and fallen leaves should also be spread on the surface, and a shade net should be put up, while watering thoroughly.
(4) Make labels and records. After planting, labels should also be made, indicating the specification and planting date. Hang two thermohygrometers in each greenhouse, one at the front and one in the middle, and keep a record book. Observe the thermohygrometers three times a day and keep records.
(5) Precautions
1. The sprouting point of the planted bulb should be vertical and pointing upward from the ground.
2. The soil temperature should be lowered before planting.
3. The Oriental lilies we plant in Guangxi are generally air-freighted from Kunming and have already been thawed, so they should be planted as soon as possible, minimizing the time left in the open field, preferably finishing planting within two days.
4. After the seedlings grow 2 cm above the ground, crooked seedlings should be straightened in time. This critical period must be strictly grasped. If this opportunity is missed, straightening the seedlings again can easily damage the root system, and not straightening them will seriously affect the survival quality of the Oriental lilies.
(6) Water and fertilizer management. When planting Oriental lilies, sprinkle 5 kg of superphosphate in each greenhouse, then from planting until emergence, generally do not fertilize, but keep the soil moist, with the degree being that no water oozes out when the soil is held in the hand. Avoid being too dry or too waterlogged. Especially during the rooting period and harvest period, the water demand is relatively large, and it must not be too dry. When the seedlings grow to 10-15 cm, start applying fertilizer for the first time, then apply once a week, adhering to the principle of thin fertilizer applied frequently. At the same time, in each greenhouse, select several representative plants of each specification and measure their height, leaf length and width, and leaf number every three days, and keep records, so as to adjust and determine the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer for the next application. Generally, in the early and middle stages, apply more compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen, phosphorus and calcium, with a ratio of 10:15:8, to promote seedling growth and rooting; in the middle and late stages, emphasize compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, with a ratio of 8:10:20, to help increase the stiffness of the stems; spray potassium dihydrogen phosphate once every 10 days at a concentration of 0.1%. At the same time, pay attention to watering, avoid being too dry or too waterlogged, and maintain air humidity at 50%-80%.
Precautions: It is strictly forbidden to pour fertilizer onto the leaves. If fertilizer is accidentally poured onto the leaves, rinse quickly with clean water to avoid burning the leaves and affecting quality.
(7) Temperature management. The temperature must not exceed 30°C at the highest and must not be lower than 5°C at the lowest. The most suitable soil temperature is 12°C-15°C. If it exceeds 18°C or falls below 10°C, it is unfavorable for the roots. After rooting, the temperature can be increased, maintaining 18-25°C during the day and 12-18°C at night. Too high during the day will reduce plant height, decrease the number of flower buds per stem, and produce a large number of blind flowers. Night temperature below 12°C will cause bud drop or leaf yellowing, reducing ornamental value.
(8) Light management. The development of Oriental lily flower buds especially requires sufficient light conditions, but too high a temperature will burn the leaves and reduce the ornamental effect.
(9) Netting and staking. In addition to the color, shape and petal texture of the flowers themselves, the height standard of Oriental lilies also requires the stems to be upright and straight. Oriental lilies have strong phototropism, and those cultivated in winter often lean toward the south and lodge, so nets must be set up and stakes erected in time. According to the specification of the bulbs, for large bulbs, erect stakes and pull nets for the first time when they grow to 20 cm, and the second time when they grow to 45-50 cm; for small bulbs, erect stakes and pull nets for the first time when they grow to 15 cm, and the second time when they grow to 40-45 cm.
(10) Prevention and control of pests and diseases. Oriental lilies are prone to phytophthora blight, gray mold and stem blight. a. Pay attention to ventilation in the greenhouse and keep it clean; b. At the early stage of disease, immediately remove diseased plants, spray 1% Bordeaux mixture and 65% zineb 600 times solution, or use 800-1000 times solution of bactericidal agents (such as thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, agricultural streptomycin for bacteria, etc.) to drench the roots or spray; c. Usually focus on prevention, spraying bactericidal agents once every 10-15 days. D. Pests are generally aphids, prevented with omethoate and derris, and after occurrence, spray 2-3 times continuously. Pay special attention not to use dichlorvos during the flowering period, otherwise it will damage the petals. Therefore, after aphids appear on the corolla, use deltamethrin or pyrethrum for control.
III. Harvesting
For those with 5-10 flower heads, harvesting can only be done after 2 buds have colored; for those with fewer than 5 flower heads, at least one bud must have colored. The best harvest time is in the morning, which can reduce water loss and make the buds less likely to wilt. After harvesting, they should be inserted into clean water containing preservative as soon as possible to absorb water.