Methods for preventing and controlling pests and diseases of Ardisia crenata, 2 pests and 3 diseases treated by spraying

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Gardeners are probably familiar with Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia). It is a very famous Chinese medicinal herb that, once used as medicine, can treat various human diseases. Even more valuable is that Ardisia crenata also looks beautiful, so many people grow it at home. However, during cultivation, pests and diseases often appear, so what should be done when Ardisia crenata has insects?

I. What to do when Ardisia crenata has insects

During the care of Ardisia crenata, attention must be paid to pests and diseases to prevent the plant from being harmed. It is understood that the main pests and diseases of Ardisia crenata are: aphids, beet armyworm/spodoptera litura, root-knot nematode disease, stem rot, and root rot, all of which can lead to serious consequences. As for what to do when Ardisia crenata has insects, after determining the specific pest or disease, simply spray accordingly.

II. Prevention and control of pests and diseases of Ardisia crenata

1. Aphids

Aphids are the most common pest of indoor potted plants, and they also harm the health of Ardisia crenata. These insects generally appear in poorly ventilated and poorly lit environments, mainly harming leaves and buds, sucking large amounts of sap, and causing leaves to turn yellow, curl, and even fall off.

Control method: When there are few aphids, manual control can be used by brushing the aphids off with a writing brush or small brush and burying them in the potting soil; when there are many scale insects, spray 40% omethoate 1000x solution or 50% dichlorvos 1000x solution for control, spraying once every 7—10 days, and 2—3 consecutive sprays can be effective.

2. Beet armyworm/spodoptera litura

In addition to aphids, under conditions of high temperature and high humidity and a non-ventilated environment, Ardisia crenata can also be attacked by moth pests, among which beet armyworm and spodoptera litura appear most often. They live by chewing the leaves of the plant. When the damage is severe, they can eat all the leaf mesophyll, leaving only the veins, and even strip and eat the cortex of the stems.

Control method: First, promptly remove egg masses and infested leaves and destroy them together to reduce the source of infection; then spray Cascade, Yitaibao, Nongdile, Kuaishaling 1000x, etc., for timely control, because this insect has a thick body wall and strong pesticide resistance, so control must be carried out early.

3. Root-knot nematode disease

In addition to insect pests, under improper care Ardisia crenata can also become diseased, such as root-knot nematode disease, which is a root disease caused by root-knot nematodes. After contracting this disease, the fibrous roots and lateral roots of Ardisia crenata develop tumor-like root knots of varying sizes. In addition, this disease can also cause the plant to be stunted and poorly developed.

Control method: This disease is mainly prevented. Before planting, evenly apply 15 grams of 3% carbofuran granules into the potting soil, then cover with 10 cm of soil, and then water thoroughly. Generally, this can eliminate many kinds of pests.

4. Stem rot

Ardisia crenata is not cold-tolerant. In winter, watering must be controlled. Once watered too much or if the potting soil drains poorly, combined with a dark indoor environment, it is very easy to cause stem rot. It is understood that Ardisia crenata mostly suffers from stem rot at the seedling stage, and when the disease occurs, the plant's stems turn black and rot.

Control method: After discovering the above symptoms, cut off the rotted parts of the lucky bamboo, apply sulfur powder, then replace with fresh culture soil and replant. After that, move the potted plant to a ventilated, sunny place, and before long, the lucky bamboo will recover its health.

5. Root rot

If kept in a high-temperature and high-humidity environment for a long time, Ardisia crenata is also prone to root rot. This disease mainly harms the roots of Ardisia crenata, causing root rot, and in severe cases, the whole plant dies. It should be noted that underground pests can worsen the condition.

Control method: Root rot of Ardisia crenata is mainly prevented. In daily care, strictly follow the watering method for Ardisia crenata and do not water too much; in the early stage of the disease, spray pesticides such as Cascade, Yitaibao, and Nongdile for control.

That is all the editor has to introduce about the prevention and control of pests and diseases of Ardisia crenata. I believe everyone should know what to do when Ardisia crenata gets insects or becomes sick! Overall, the cultivation method of Ardisia crenata is not difficult. As long as everyone is a bit more careful, insects will not come knocking. Finally, may everyone's Ardisia crenata grow beautifully~

Cultivation methods and precautions for Ardisia crenata (fugui zi)

Cultivation methods for Ardisia crenata (fugui zi)

Temperature

Ardisia crenata likes a warm growing environment, and the suitable temperature for growth is between 16℃~ 28C. It is not very cold-tolerant, so the overwintering temperature cannot be lower than 5℃. Moreover, Ardisia crenata is also not heat-tolerant, and growth slows when the summer temperature is higher than 32℃. Therefore, when cultivating Ardisia crenata, keep it warm in winter, and in summer pay attention to shading, spraying water on the plant, and strengthening ventilation to lower the temperature of the growing environment.

Light

Ardisia crenata likes a semi-shady environment and needs bright scattered light, avoiding direct sunlight. Generally, Ardisia crenata needs to receive sufficient light, but when the sunlight is too strong, pay attention to shading, and in winter make sure Ardisia crenata receives plenty of sunlight to avoid fruit drop.

Watering

Ardisia crenata is suitable for growing in a moist or semi-dry environment. It dislikes drought and also dislikes waterlogging. The relative air humidity of the growing environment is required to be between 50% and 70%. During the growth period of Ardisia crenata, watering should be sufficient to keep the potting soil moist, but do not water too much, otherwise the accumulated water in the pot will cause Ardisia crenata to rot its roots. In winter, watering should be controlled, and the potting soil must not be too wet.

Fertilizing

In order for Ardisia crenata to grow well and produce beautiful fruit, fertilizer is indispensable. During the growth period, more nitrogen fertilizer can be applied to promote the growth of branches and leaves, and before flowering, some phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied to promote flowering and fruiting. Note that after winter begins, fertilizing should be stopped.

Precautions for cultivating Ardisia crenata (fugui zi)

Pruning

Ardisia crenata has relatively high ornamental value and needs frequent pruning to form a full plant shape.

Repotting

As the plant grows, the old pot will inevitably affect the further development of Ardisia crenata, so it can be repotted every spring and given fresh culture soil.

Pest and disease control

Common pests and diseases of Ardisia crenata include stem rot, root rot, blight, leaf spot, root-knot nematode disease, and scale insects, aphids, and moths.

February home flower-growing guide

February is the last month of winter and also the cold period second only to January in the year, with an average monthly temperature between -2.5℃ (Beijing) and 4.7℃ (Shanghai). In the north, potted ornamental plants that can be displayed in courtyards must be quite cold-tolerant species. Among woody ornamental plants are: lacebark pine, Yunnan pine, Huashan pine, Japanese fir, Japanese white pine, black pine, Japanese black pine, large-leaf euonymus, Chinese juniper, Oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, firethorn, wintersweet, plum blossom, ginkgo, Butia capitata, European dwarf palm, Chilean wine palm, Washington palm, leatherleaf mahonia, Chinese elm, trident maple, crape myrtle, etc.; in the south, plants such as banyan, Canary Island date palm, long-spike palm, silver date palm, lady palm, silver wattle, silver birch, leatherleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, Buddhist pine, bamboo-leaf podocarpus, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, cabbage palm, heavenly bamboo, sago palm, golden mountain palm, etc. can be displayed. In the less cold areas south of the Yangtze River, some herbaceous flowers can also be displayed, such as ornamental kale, daisy, pansy, pot marigold, Reineckea carnea, Aspidistra elatior, dwarf lilyturf, etc. This month, when displaying ornamental plants in the courtyard, various measures should be taken to prevent freezing damage to plant roots or cracking of flower pots.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

1. Sowing: In a double-layer plastic greenhouse with good insulation in the courtyard, the herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: pot marigold, cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, asparagus fern, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, cornflower, blanket flower, strawflower, scarlet sage, marigold, globe amaranth, French marigold, dwarf petunia, California poppy, phlox, calceolaria, snapdragon, nasturtium, pansy, etc. Note that the greenhouse temperature should be kept no lower than the minimum germination temperature for the seeds of different herbaceous flower species. In addition, tubers of tuberose and amaryllis can also be potted in the greenhouse at the end of February.

At the end of this month, in the south, as long as the nursery soil is not frozen, woody ornamental plant species that can be sown in the open ground in the courtyard include: magnolia species, Michelia species, Photinia species, maple species, Malus species that have already cracked and turned white after sand stratification for germination promotion, as well as peony, goldenrain tree, red camellia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, privet, soapberry, small-leaf privet, Elaeocarpus, palm, Chinese parasol tree, firethorn, osmanthus, etc. Those not subjected to sand stratification, such as wisteria, lilac, wintersweet, summer sweet shrub, and tulip tree, can also be sown at the end of February. Seeds of wintersweet, summer sweet shrub, and tulip tree with thicker seed coats should first be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water.

2. Cuttings: This month, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings in the open ground in the courtyard or with plastic film cover include: plum blossom (referring to one-year-old branches of easily rooting varieties such as Gongfen and Lve), heavenly bamboo, cotton rose (south), edgeworthia, pomegranate, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, serissa, hibiscus, golden-stamen plum (peach), spiraea, leatherleaf mahonia, boxwood species, Lespedeza, wintersweet (with heel), red-leaf plum, rose (Elizabeth, floribunda, climbing, miniature, etc.), ternstroemia, silver bud willow, snowspray, gardenia (south), golden-leaf privet, purple-leaf barberry, fig, etc. The cutting medium can be ordinary sandy loam, or a mixed medium of half vermiculite and half river sand.

This month, as long as a simple or double-layer plastic greenhouse with good insulation can maintain a temperature of no less than 5℃ to 7℃, the following ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings: jasmine, chloranthus, geranium, fuchsia, Belgian azalea, hibiscus, tricolor sage, lantana, gemstone plant, jade plant, jade leaf, finger citron, echeveria, county flower, epiphyllum, Pilea, shrimp plant, nasturtium, kalanchoe, clerodendrum, ixora, silver-haired glory tree (Brazilian glory tree), Schefflera, mini coconut, rubber tree, begonia semperflorens, cane begonia, gray thistle (commonly known as African jasmine), banyan, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, red-backed excoecaria, scarlet sage, Rieger begonia, Guangdong evergreen, dreamy cordyline, pothos, etc. The cutting medium can be mud or a medium mixed half and half with rice husk ash and fine sand.

3. Grafting: In late this month, indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock, and side-graft Japanese white pine, Osaka pine, Japanese black pine, etc., onto the rootstock medium, covering with film to retain moisture and heat, resulting in a relatively high survival rate; use one-year-old seedlings of apricot or wild peach as rootstock, and cut-graft red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc.; in the Jiangnan region, when the leaf buds on the 2-year-old wintersweet seedling rootstock grow to the size of wheat grains, cut-grafting can be carried out to propagate excellent varieties of “Suxin”, “Xinkou”, and “Huti” wintersweet; by fully bagging to retain moisture, the survival rate is high; indoors, use 1- to 2-year-old purple magnolia as rootstock, cut-graft Michelia, plant in the ground and cover with plastic film to retain moisture and heat, and the survival rate is also relatively high; use Elizabeth or wild rose as rootstock, and cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent varieties of rose, with very good results; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock, and graft red maple, feather maple, etc., by inflated bagging; in the south, if the greenhouse temperature can be maintained above 20℃, use oil tea and red camellia as rootstock, and perform trunk-cutting single-bud bark-peeling veneer grafting for camellia, adding plastic bag covering for heat retention, and the survival effect is especially good.

4. Layering: This month, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by low layering include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple, Mulus micromalus, purple magnolia, gardenia, osmanthus, camellia, weigela, Buddhist pine, juniper, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, forsythia, Hypericum, hydrangea, true juniper, snowspray, red maple, Michelia, etc.; species that can be propagated by air layering include: red maple, camellia, rubber tree, white orchid, Aglaia odorata, etc., but the latter three can only be done in greenhouses with relatively high room temperature.

5. Division: This month, woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: heavenly bamboo, cotton rose, Hypericum, leatherleaf mahonia, hydrangea, Chaenomeles speciosa, edgeworthia, winter jasmine, forsythia, Caragana, snowspray, red-flowered spiraea, jasmine, chloranthus, tiger thorn, purple magnolia, four-season osmanthus, fishpole bamboo, Sasa fortunei, lady palm, bush cherry, gardenia, sisal, French holly, sago palm, etc.

This month, herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, silver-striped lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple calyx, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, black-eyed Susan, lily of the valley, Oxalis species, Aspidistra species, Iris species, Bromeliaceae species, Sansevieria species, clivia, money tree, Maranta species, little angel, Anthurium species, Monstera, Philodendron species, sword fern, oxalis, spider plant species, bird of paradise, aloe, canna, Alocasia, etc. Note that less cold-tolerant species should be kept in greenhouses with good insulation to avoid cold damage or freezing damage.

Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers

1. Transplanting: This month, most flowering shrubs and courtyard landscaping trees can be transplanted and established, such as hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, Malus species, ginkgo, maple species, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, purple-leaf cherry, purple-leaf peach, cherry blossom, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, Chinese tallow, elm-leaved spiraea, edgeworthia, rose, white spiraea, dragon-claw pagoda tree, etc.

This month, because the weather is still quite cold, some evergreen courtyard trees, such as camphor tree, French holly, privet, Elaeocarpus, southern magnolia, osmanthus, etc., can be transplanted in the Jiangnan region by conventional methods; between the Jianghuai region, strong pruning, large soil balls, wax sealing of cut surfaces, trunk wrapping with rope or bundling should be adopted, or for moving southern trees north, it is best to postpone until mid-to-late March.

This month in the Jiangnan region, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and established include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale, pot marigold, daisy, etc.; in the colder northern regions, Dianthus, primrose, pot marigold, snapdragon, pansy, daisy, etc. can first be potted and placed in a greenhouse, and after spring returns and the weather warms, they can be removed from the pots and established in the courtyard.

Bonsai enthusiasts can combine this with winter forestry land preparation to collect wild tree stumps, such as trident maple, horned holly, Chinese elm, plum yew, wisteria, Elaeagnus, oak, azalea, Vitex, Euonymus, red nanmu, heavenly bamboo, etc. After strong pruning, shallow planting and high mounding, covering with straw curtains for cold protection and moisture retention, they can be cultivated into good stump material.

2. Pruning: For hedges, topiary balls, and ground-planted flowering shrubs that were not pruned in January, continue to seize the favorable opportunity before the trees sprout and send out shoots to prune comprehensively. For hedges, green walls, and courtyard color blocks, prune according to the requirements of straight lines, flat surfaces, and distinct edges and corners; for topiary balls and other geometric plants, prune according to the requirements of rounded curved surfaces and neat flat surfaces; for ground-planted flowering shrubs, remove diseased and insect-infested branches and disorderly branches so that the plants become more beautiful in appearance and the inner canopy receives light. The pruned branches and leaves should be gathered and burned, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year.

3. Watering: For ornamental plants such as flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in late autumn and early winter, special attention should be paid to watering management. If the soil mounded around the roots becomes dry, promptly supplement with watering; if more dust adheres to the leaf surface, spray water on the branches and leaves at noon on a clear day to prevent frost or freezing on the leaf surface in the early morning of the next day. For a small number of transplanted trees in the courtyard, after thorough watering, cover straw or film within a radius of 1 to 1.5 m near the tree base, which can both retain heat and moisture and help protect the root system.

4. Fertilizing: For ground-planted flowering shrubs in the courtyard that have not yet received winter fertilization, such as osmanthus, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, rose, crape myrtle, redbud, pomegranate, Malus species, Michelia species, magnolia species, winter jasmine, forsythia, Hypericum, leatherleaf mahonia, heavenly bamboo, firethorn, etc., seize the time in the first and middle ten days of this month to dig ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the root base and bury an appropriate amount of cake fertilizer or compound fertilizer, generally 1 jin per plant, to meet the needs of continuous growth in the current year; in the Jiangnan region, for ground-planted herbaceous flowers transplanted in late autumn and early winter, such as Dianthus, verbena, phlox, pansy, pot marigold, hollyhock, mallow, etc., a thin fertilizer solution can be applied once at the end of the month to promote normal vegetative growth.

5. Pest and disease control: Seize the time to clean up and sweep away weeds and fallen leaves in the courtyard and burn them together, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year; inspect the trunks of courtyard flowers and trees, and if egg masses, pupae, etc. are found, scrape them off and destroy them in time; inspect the plants, and if branches and leaves infected with pests or diseases are found, promptly cut them off and burn them; for aphids found on plants, plant ash or tobacco dust can be spread to eliminate them.

6. Digging the soil: In the first ten days of this month, seize the time to dig and turn the plots in the courtyard intended for cutting, sowing, or establishment that year, and at the same time apply cake fertilizer, pond mud, barnyard manure, etc. (except for cutting plots). After freezing the soil clods, dig furrows and make beds in March, which can significantly reduce the harm of underground pests to seedlings in the current year. In addition, idle plots under courtyard trees should also be dug and turned, which can both reduce pests and diseases and benefit the growth of flowers and trees in the current year.

7. Fertilizer preparation: In the first ten days of this month, put rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea cake, chicken manure, pigeon manure, etc. into jars or pits, add water, and seal for fermentation; this can be used for watering ground-planted trees and potted plants in spring and summer. Mix pig manure, chicken manure, cake fertilizer, etc. with pond mud and garden soil, then seal and compost, which can be used to prepare culture soil and for topdressing flowers and trees. Dry the dead branches, fallen leaves, and weeds cleaned up from the courtyard, then pile and burn them in alternating layers with garden soil. The resulting burned soil can be used both for covering seeds after sowing and for preparing culture soil.

8. Seed collection: There are not many seeds that can be collected in February, only those flower and tree species whose fruits can persist on the branches for a relatively long time, such as firethorn, fugui zi, heavenly bamboo, holly species, small-leaf privet, privet, red maple, chicken-claw pepper, etc.; after collection, they should be processed promptly and stratified in sand for germination promotion, so as to be sown from late March to early April. In greenhouses, seeds of asparagus fern, winter coral, lady palm, precious coconut, clivia, etc. can also be collected, and should be sown as soon as collected.

9. Inspection: This month, frequently inspect seeds stored in sand stratification, such as magnolia species, Michelia species, manglietia species, Photinia species, winter table species, privet species, osmanthus species, to see whether any seeds have become moldy. If moldy seeds are found, promptly rinse the seeds and replace the wet sand for re-storage; if the seeds are dry, spray appropriately to increase humidity; if the seeds have already cracked and turned white, promptly sow them in the ground and cover with plastic film to retain heat and moisture. In addition, inspect dahlia tubers and canna rhizomes stored in sand indoors to prevent mold and rot.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

1. Watering: For some relatively cold-tolerant potted ornamental plant species placed in the courtyard, such as pines and cypresses, wintersweet, plum blossom, crape myrtle, Vitex, ornamental peach, Hall crabapple, etc., water once every half month around noon, keeping the potting soil moist but not frozen; for plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, daphne, Malus species, Belgian azalea, etc. placed in greenhouses, because their flower buds are in the swelling stage or beginning to open, in addition to keeping the potting soil moist, the branches should also be frequently watered to create a relatively humid small environment for them; for foliage plants placed in greenhouses, watering should be well controlled, and the plants can be sprayed once a week around noon, with the water temperature basically consistent with the greenhouse temperature, and there should be no standing water on the leaf surface at night, so as not to damage the roots and leaves.

2. Fertilizing: This month, the vast majority of potted flowers and trees in the courtyard are still in a dormant state, so topdressing is not necessary. However, for some tall potted plants, if repotting is not planned in spring, a ring-shaped trench can be dug around the potting soil and a small amount of decomposed cake fertilizer powder or multi-element slow-release compound fertilizer granules can be buried; for plum blossom, peach blossom, peony, camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, daphne, Malus species, etc. placed in greenhouses, if the greenhouse temperature exceeds 10℃, a 0.3% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied; for bromeliads, Cymbidium, cyclamen, Cymbidium sinense, cineraria, hyacinth, crab claw orchid, calla lily, bird of paradise, etc. placed in greenhouses, as long as the temperature is not lower than 15℃, continue topdressing with a low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution; for foliage plants placed in greenhouses, if the temperature is lower than 10℃, their root systems are still dormant, and all forms of topdressing should be stopped.

3. Pruning: This month is the last month of winter. For potted ornamental plants placed in the courtyard that have not yet completed pruning, seize the time to prune them; for potted plants that have been trained for more than a year but have not yet been tied, first remove the binding material, and for branch pads that have not yet been tied into place, change the angle and position again and tie and guide them separately, so as to avoid dead branch pads caused by tying for too long. For potted foliage plants placed in greenhouses, promptly cut off dead branches and yellow leaves on the plants.

4. Cold protection: For potted flowers placed in greenhouses, if an especially strong cold wave moves south and causes a sharp temperature drop, add 1 to 2 far-infrared electric heating films in the greenhouse, which can raise the greenhouse temperature by 2℃ to 3℃. For large tree-stump bonsai placed in the courtyard, in especially cold weather, cover the pot surface and surroundings with sawdust, straw, burlap, film, etc. for insulation.

5. Pest and disease control: For potted ornamental plants placed in greenhouses, special attention should be paid to controlling aphids, scale insects, and whiteflies; for relatively humid greenhouses, pay attention to ventilation when the temperature is relatively high around noon to prevent large-scale gray mold, such as on Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, hibiscus, etc. For potted plants that had pests or diseases last year, clean up the dead branches, fallen leaves, and pot-surface weeds around them and burn them together; for large stumps with partially exposed xylem on the trunk, apply lime sulfur mixture to the exposed parts to prevent trunk rot or insect boring.

6. Soil preparation: In the first ten days of this month, seize the time to prepare culture soil. Use 5 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part river sand, 2 parts decomposed sawdust or tobacco dust, plus 5% decomposed cake fertilizer and 3% multi-element compound fertilizer. Mix thoroughly and pile it up, then cover with plastic film on top, ready for repotting or potting in spring.

Balcony flower care arrangements

Bonsai suitable for balcony display

This month the weather is cold. On open balconies north of the Huai River, it is still not suitable to place potted ornamental plants, unless they are species that are very cold-tolerant, drought-tolerant, and resistant to cold wind, such as Oriental arborvitae, dragon juniper, Chinese juniper, pomegranate, ginkgo, etc. Open balconies south of the Huai River can display plant species that have undergone long-term adaptation and training, have strong resistance, and are quite cold-tolerant, such as black pine, trident maple, Chinese elm, plum yew, water willow, wintersweet, plum blossom, winter jasmine, forsythia, Euonymus, etc., but the potting soil should also be prevented from freezing. In the south, if the temperature on the balcony is not lower than 5℃, then sago palm, Japanese aucuba, leatherleaf mahonia, Butia capitata, lady palm, European dwarf palm, golden mountain palm, white ash, horned holly, Hall crabapple, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. can be displayed.

Propagation of balcony flowers

1. Sowing: In an enclosed balcony, use a large flower pot filled with culture soil to sow sago palm, lady palm, asparagus fern, clivia, Buddhist pine, bamboo-leaf podocarpus, osmanthus, Michelia, Ardisia crenata, ginkgo, etc., and seedlings can emerge in spring.

2. Cuttings: In an enclosed balcony, use a wide-mouthed large flower pot as the container, use vermiculite or peat mixed with 1/5 river sand as the cutting medium, carry out fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings, and maintain a temperature of no less than 5℃. Finger citron, hibiscus, Schefflera, rubber tree, lantana, geranium, jasmine, chloranthus, Japanese aucuba, kalanchoe, jade plant, jade leaf, county flower, epiphyllum, etc. can be propagated by cuttings.

Management of balcony potted flowers

1. Watering: For plant species placed on a fully enclosed balcony that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, pot marigold, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as firethorn, heavenly bamboo, bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, fugui zi, winter coral, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves, flower buds, and fruits must also be sprayed with water. Only in this way can the leaf color be emerald green, the flower buds swell rapidly, and the fruit colors be bright. For purchased Cymbidium, poinsettia, etc. cultivated in greenhouses, because the temperature and humidity in their original environment differ greatly from those at home, if the leaf surface is not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves will often shrink and dry up. For various bromeliads, if the room temperature is lower than 10℃ to 15℃, not only should watering be controlled, but too much water should not be poured into the leaf cups either, to prevent heart rot. For potted ornamental plants in the south that continue to be kept on the balcony, it is suitable to keep the potting soil moist.

2. Fertilizing: For potted ornamental plants placed on a fully enclosed balcony, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, daphne, clivia, plum blossom, cyclamen, calla lily, Cymbidium, Cymbidium sinense, bromeliads, calceolaria, cineraria, bird of paradise, primrose, hyacinth, tulip, etc., as long as the room temperature is not lower than 15℃, continue topdressing with a low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution. For tree-stump bonsai and potted foliage plants that have entered dormancy, stop all forms of topdressing.

3. Pruning: For potted ornamental plants placed on a fully enclosed balcony, cut off dead branches, yellow leaves, and branches and leaves infected with pests or diseases, and destroy them; for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as plum yew, Chinese elm, Distylium, trident maple, etc. in the north, and Fujian tea, orange jasmine, banyan, small pyracantha, bougainvillea, pepperwood, fragrant wood, etc. in the south, seize the time to carry out a comprehensive and thorough pruning to make the crown shape beautiful and the layers distinct; for plants that have been trained by wiring for 2 years, first remove the binding material, and if the expected fixed shape has not yet been achieved, change the angle and position again and then carry out wiring treatment again.

4. Cold protection: Determine whether potted plants placed on the balcony should be moved into an ordinary room to avoid the cold, placed in an air-conditioned room for care, or directly covered with a double-layer plastic shed on the balcony for cold protection, according to the lower temperature limit that different ornamental plant species can tolerate. For potted plants placed on balconies in the south, it is best to cover and tie the pot surface and the surroundings of the flower pot with burlap, etc. at night.

5. Pest and disease control: The exposed xylem on the trunk and large branches of tree-stump bonsai should be coated with lime sulfur mixture to prevent mold and insect boring. For scale insects, whiteflies, etc. appearing on potted plants, promptly wipe them off with a wet cloth; for aphids appearing on potted plants, soak tobacco dust (tobacco shreds) in water to kill them.