How to grow asparagus fern so it stays healthy year-round and free from disease

To grow a flower, you should first understand the characteristics of that flower. If you do not even know what kind of environment it likes or how much water it likes, it is very difficult to grow it well. Below we introduce the methods for growing asparagus fern one by one, hoping to help friends in need.

The soil that asparagus fern likes is the kind with plenty of rotted roots and fallen leaves, and it should also be mixed with a small amount of fine sand, which can make the potting soil drain better. Asparagus fern likes moisture, but its roots do not like being soaked in water, so only planting it in this kind of flower soil will make it grow strong. When buying, we should look at what kind of pot and soil the plant was grown in. If these details are not paid attention to, it will not survive even if bought and taken home.

When growing asparagus fern, be sure to pay attention to fertilizing. Do not underestimate this small plant whose leaves look like needles; its demand for nutrients is very high. Unlike some flowers that are fertilized once a month, asparagus fern absorbs fertilizer very quickly, and it also blooms itself, so its nutrient demand is even greater. It should be fertilized once a week, and an organic compound fertilizer is enough.

Asparagus fern likes good ventilation but does not like direct sunlight, especially the midday sun in summer. Being exposed to such sunlight is fatally harmful to asparagus fern. In spring and autumn, asparagus fern can be placed on a windowsill in a well-ventilated spot. In summer, it should be moved away from the windowsill and placed somewhere that gets sun in the morning and evening, but no matter where it is placed, good ventilation must be ensured.

Asparagus fern likes slight humidity, and a spray bottle can be used to mist its leaves every day. This can prevent the leaf tips from turning yellow and also increase the plant's ornamental value. After asparagus fern has grown for more than half a year, the frequency and amount of fertilization can be appropriately reduced. Ferrous sulfate diluted with water can often be used to water the roots of asparagus fern, and then its leaves will become even more emerald green.

Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key Points for Spring Flower Planting

Flower Planting Manual (February Edition)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and also the coldest period of the year after January. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition toward spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to recovery. The main flower tasks this month are as follows: first, continue the cold protection and heat preservation work for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job with post-bloom pruning and repotting of some woody flowers; third, do the preliminary preparation work for cuttings, grafting propagation and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February include: pot marigold, cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, asparagus fern, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, Carthamus tinctorius, cornflower, blanket flower, strawflower, scarlet sage, marigold, Paris daisy, petunia, California poppy, phlox, pocketbook plant, butterfly flower, snapdragon, nasturtium, pansy, etc. Those that can be sown outdoors in the open field at the end of February include: seeds of Magnolia species, Michelia species, Photinia species, Acer species, and Malus species (Rosaceae) that have already cracked and shown white after sand stratification, as well as Cinnamomum camphora, Liriodendron chinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, palm, Koelreuteria paniculata, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus chinensis, Syringa, etc.; seeds of Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Wisteria sinensis, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours, and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and Hippeastrum bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated in February by open-field cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film for moisture retention include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches of cultivars such as Gongfen and LÜe), heavenly bamboo, Hibiscus mutabilis (southern regions), crape myrtle, Daphne odora (southern regions), Edgeworthia chrysantha, pomegranate, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, Serissa japonica, Hibiscus syriacus, Hypericum (mei), Spiraea, Mahonia, Buxus species, and Lespedeza, etc. Sand-stratified branches of Syringa and Campsis can also be used for cuttings at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela florida, Deutzia scabra, Hydrangea macrophylla, Tamarix chinensis, Platanus orientalis, grape, and fig can also continue to be cut and stored for cuttings at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by indoor cuttings in February include: Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), Begonia maculata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, scarlet sage, geranium, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, fingered citron, jade plant, jade leaf, Echeveria, jewel flower, Epiphyllum, orchid cactus, Pilea cadierei, Bryophyllum, kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera octophylla, Aglaonema modestum, Cordyline fruticosa, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, Japanese red pine, lacebark pine, etc., then plant them in the ground and cover with film for heat and moisture retention. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot and wild peach as rootstock, and use cut grafting to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. South of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on Chimonanthus praecox branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use Chimonanthus praecox seedlings with a diameter of about 0.8 to 1.2 cm as rootstock, and use cut grafting to propagate excellent cultivars of Chimonanthus praecox such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou' and 'Huti', adopting bagging and aeration moisture retention measures, which gives a relatively high survival rate. Use robust branches of the rose cultivar 'Elizabeth' as rootstock-scion, and use cut grafting or cleft grafting for scions of excellent rose cultivars; adopting the measures of grafting first, then cutting, and then covering with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection can greatly increase the grafting survival rate.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Chaenomeles speciosa, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, gardenia, Weigela florida, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum, Hydrangea macrophylla, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, red maple, Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: iris, Belamcanda chinensis, Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope platyphylla, Liriope spicata var. variegata, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, Dicentra spectabilis, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, small tulip, bromeliads, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, spider plant types, Bryophyllum, Canna indica, Calathea, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium podophyllum, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia miniata, aloe, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: heavenly bamboo, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hypericum, Mahonia, Hydrangea macrophylla, Chaenomeles speciosa, Edgeworthia chrysantha, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana sinica, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Damnacanthus indicus, Magnolia liliiflora, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', bamboo, and Pleioblastus fortunei, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds such as those of heavenly bamboo, holly species, Ardisia crenata, and winter coral can be picked, processed, and then sand-stratified for germination. They can be sown only after the seed grains have cracked and shown white. For Clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia seeds with relatively good genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various sand-stratified flower and tree seeds to see whether any seed grains have become moldy. If mold occurs, clean them promptly; if the seed grains are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with spraying water to maintain a certain humidity for the sand and seeds; if a small number of seed grains have already cracked and shown white, they should be sown in a relatively short time. Once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle, affecting the seed emergence rate. Large seeds under sand stratification can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows, and after sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection.

    2. Transplanting and field planting. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and temperatures are relatively high, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and field planted include: Dianthus species, snapdragon, hollyhock, silver-edged holly, daisy, pot marigold, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be field planted. Among the deciduous types are Hibiscus syriacus, pomegranate, redbud, Malus species, ginkgo, sweetgum, Acer species, Wisteria sinensis, crape myrtle, Chimonanthus praecox, plum blossom (before budding and leafing out), Magnolia species, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Aesculus chinensis, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Campsis, Tilia, Liriodendron chinense, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, Spiraea, Triadica sebifera, Deutzia scabra, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum (mei), weeping willow, golden weeping willow, Hibiscus mutabilis, smoke tree, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia species, Cinnamomum camphora, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Ligustrum sinense, Machilus pingii, Phoebe sheareri, etc. can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; osmanthus, Ligustrum lucidum, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Platycladus orientalis, black pine, etc. should be given moderate pruning when planted.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (or tunnel) maintenance, potted ornamental plants have consumed a relatively large amount of nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the plants has greatly declined, so the work of moisture retention and cold protection should continue carefully. If greenhouses or plastic tunnels have heating facilities, continue to provide heating, and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, continue to hang them; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, even more care should be taken.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities, continue to do a good job with ventilation and air exchange. Especially by the end of February, the ventilation and air exchange time can be extended during the period of highest temperature in the day. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For cold-sensitive flowers grown in small quantities at home, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea orbifolia, Syngonium podophyllum, Begonia masoniana, Codiaeum variegatum, and Dieffenbachia seguine, during especially cold weather, plastic bags can be put over them at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom and heating appliances such as a "heat lamp" can be turned on to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. Because temperatures are relatively low in February, for the vast majority of potted flowers it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plant. For relatively dry indoor spaces, frequently mist and spray the leaves of the plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color, flower buds to stop growing, and in severe cases leaves to shrivel and wrinkle and flower buds to shrink and drop. For plants such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, bitter orange, kumquat, and winter coral, bud drop and fruit drop may all occur, and even death. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor and tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, pot marigold, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as Pyracantha, heavenly bamboo, bitter orange, fingered citron, lemon, Ardisia crenata, four-season mandarin, winter coral, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds, and fruits. Only in this way can the leaves be emerald green, the flower buds rapidly expand, and the fruits be brightly colored. Especially for peonies, plum blossoms, Chaenomeles speciosa, and Malus halliana, etc. placed in plastic tunnels for forcing, the branches must also be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so that they can bloom and show their beauty on schedule. For purchased Cymbidium hybrids cultivated in greenhouses or plastic tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in their original greenhouse or tunnel differ greatly from those in the home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often become shriveled and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., their potting soil must be kept moist, and the plants must be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day; otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    Although in February the vast majority of potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened, and especially when temperatures continue to rise for several consecutive days, supplementary watering and spraying should be increased promptly.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, water should be supplemented promptly. Especially for those evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, on sunny days around noon, leaf spraying should also be appropriately given to prevent the leaves from shriveling and dropping afterward, which would affect the recovery of growth in spring.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, base fertilizer can continue to be buried for most field-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. A ring-shaped trench can be dug around the outer perimeter of the plant root system, applied, and then covered with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (plastic tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, Daphne odora, plum blossom, European daffodil, hyacinth, tulip, Christmas cactus, orchid cactus, bromeliads, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia, etc., low-concentration monopotassium phosphate can continue to be applied as a topdressing to facilitate plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and tree-stump bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

    4. Pruning. In February, for field-planted or potted plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, strong renewal pruning can be carried out. For branches that have bloomed, only 2 to 3 buds are retained at the base, and all the rest are cut off, prompting them to produce many new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and irregularly shaped branches should also be pruned at the same time. For tree-stump bonsai types mainly shaped by pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ficus microcarpa, Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Xylosma congestum, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, Elaeagnus pungens, Ilex cornuta, holly, Serissa japonica, Juniperus formosana, Juniperus rigida, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repotting can be given at the same time as pruning.

    5. Repotting. Late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is recovering growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: Chinese hibiscus, geranium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Brunfelsia acuminata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, sword fern, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Fuchsia, Begonia maculata, Begonia semperflorens, painted-leaf begonia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, sago palm, Clivia, Haworthia, aloe, Christmas cactus, orchid cactus, Sedum, jade plant, jade leaf, kalanchoe, Hippeastrum, asparagus fern, spider plant, Araucaria heterophylla, Schefflera octophylla, Rohdea japonica, Strelitzia reginae, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, coral plant, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hydrangea macrophylla, heavenly bamboo, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, bitter orange, kumquat, fingered citron, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold appearing on the leaves of primrose, etc., at the early stage of disease, choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution for spraying, once every 10 days, and 2 to 3 consecutive sprays are enough.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted cyclamen in plastic tunnels, 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution can be sprayed.

For potted Belgian azaleas in plastic tunnels, foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao" should be stopped being sprayed on the leaves, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer is difficult for the plant to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants, and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as bitter orange and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush, and when there are many insects they can be sprayed and killed with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution. After aphids, scale insects, and ants are killed, sooty mold will also disappear accordingly.

For insect bodies such as cottony cushion scale, white peach scale, oystershell scale, and blackish round scale appearing on potted flower plants in plastic tunnels, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or sprayed and killed with 2.5% cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% fenamiphos granules in the flowerpot.

Continue cleaning up dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and pest-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted flowers, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water pool or water vat, add clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that in the growing season it can be diluted and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc., and after about 2 months spread it out to dry. After fully drying, pack it in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and dried cake fertilizer granular powder can be spread in flowerpots as topdressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium hybrids, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and other potted flower types, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer, especially when growing flowers on a balcony, as it is convenient and hygienic and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used for mixing potting soil.

    8. Turning over and freezing soil. In early February, continue turning over garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, then dig trenches and make beds for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include Sabina chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus formosana, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus chinensis, ginkgo, Serissa japonica, Juniperus procumbens, Japanese white pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', Adina rubella, Caragana sinica, small golden coin plum, Corylopsis, Chaenomeles speciosa, crape myrtle, Ficus microcarpa, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, etc.

Continue re-wiring and adjusting plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If the plants are found to have sunken binding constriction marks, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, and replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue doing good work in heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing, cracking, and disintegrating, causing unnecessary losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March Edition)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Field-planted flower species

If the area in front of your courtyard is open and broad, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain degree, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively sun-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Field-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, ginkgo, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, persimmon, Hibiscus mutabilis, Liriodendron chinense, plum blossom, rose, fig, Camellia japonica, crape myrtle, peony, pomegranate, Wisteria sinensis, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, heavenly bamboo, red maple, redbud, Hibiscus syriacus, Canary Island date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, then you should choose some flower and tree species suited to shady and damp conditions, such as palm, Photinia, Aucuba japonica, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis, cedar, Chimonanthus praecox, banana, clustered bamboo, etc. Regardless of how much light or how dry or wet your courtyard is, when choosing field-planted flowers and trees you should pay attention to the following points: first, the lowest temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid cold damage; second, they should be suited to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid incompatibility; third, they should have relatively few pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many: a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to hinder the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-sized plants, which can achieve greening and beautification effects earlier, such as ginkgo, Japanese fir, osmanthus, plum blossom, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc., whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some idle land for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant species suitable for field planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include Dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, scarlet sage, cockscomb, globe amaranth, cockscomb, marigold, hollyhock, Impatiens, lupine, daisy, pot marigold, corn poppy, Zephyranthes candida, dahlia, etc. Relatively shade-tolerant herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant species include: Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope platyphylla, Reineckea carnea, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Lycoris radiata, Rohdea japonica, Tradescantia spathacea, Aspidistra elatior, iris, Acorus calamus, Saxifraga stolonifera, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potting in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, some flower species requiring relatively meticulous management can be selected for planting, such as plum blossom, Aglaia odorata, Camellia japonica, poinsettia, Chimonanthus praecox, Belgian azalea, Araucaria heterophylla, Brazilian iron, money tree, king coconut, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, jasmine, Ardisia crenata, bromeliads, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix wood), Fagraea ceilania (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum species (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, Cymbidium hybrids, Anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia reginae, Chinese hibiscus, Clivia, pothos, Fittonia, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Syngonium podophyllum, fingered citron, bitter orange, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, pocketbook plant, fish-tail palm, areca palm, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poorer conditions, species requiring relatively extensive management can be grown, such as heavenly bamboo, sago palm, Rhapis excelsa, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hippeastrum, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana sinica, Serissa japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', cacti, asparagus fern, rubber tree, Epiphyllum, orchid cactus, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Schefflera octophylla, Pilea cadierei, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, bougainvillea, Euphorbia milii, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron pulchrum, Ficus microcarpa, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: crape myrtle, redbud, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, red maple, and Liriodendron chinense; the latter five all need their seeds soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown and raised as seedlings after sand stratification for germination include: Cycas revoluta, ginkgo, Podocarpus nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Livistona chinensis, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia species, osmanthus, Aesculus chinensis, heavenly bamboo, holly species, pomegranate, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Impatiens, marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, scarlet sage, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter coral, Primula obconica, Malva species, Mirabilis jalapa, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia, asparagus fern, etc. Some cold-intolerant species should be sown inside plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cuttings. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: Chinese hibiscus, geranium, Epiphyllum, orchid cactus, Portulacaria afra, jewel flower, Echeveria, Hydrangea macrophylla, heavenly bamboo, Chaenomeles speciosa, silver bud willow, Hypericum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, pomegranate, fig, Fatsia japonica, gardenia, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Sabina chinensis, Daphne odora, firethorn, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should be taken in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side grafting to propagate Japanese white pine, Osaka pine, Japanese red pine, etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliiflora seedlings as rootstock, cut grafting to propagate Michelia and Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut grafting to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select scion branches of excellent Chimonanthus praecox cultivars, carry out cut grafting and give bagging for moisture retention, which gives a relatively high survival rate; using three-edged arrow as rootstock, graft to propagate Christmas cactus and various cactus ball types, preferably in plastic tunnels. In addition, Camellia japonica, cherry blossom, osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be propagated by grafting in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, red maple, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, upright cypress, Michelia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball, gardenia, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchid grasses, Dicentra spectabilis, Aspidistra elatior, asparagus fern, sago palm, heavenly bamboo, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Sansevieria, Oxalis triangularis, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet, dahlia, Strelitzia reginae, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of field-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and field planting courtyard flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting plum blossom, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Liriodendron chinense, red maple, etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants bud and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; for Chimonanthus praecox, crape myrtle, redbud, Hibiscus syriacus, Aesculus chinensis, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc., even after budding it does not matter, but appropriate pruning should still be done. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, when transplanting, a sufficient soil ball must be carried, and generally the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For field-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertilizer in winter, before they have sprouted, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of their root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon manure, etc., or multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning off dead branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and overgrown flowering branches, for one-year-old branches, they can be cut off at 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branch, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through strong renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, favoring flowering the following year. For Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, etc., after flowering, prune off branches that ruin the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, osmanthus, etc. that form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve the ventilation and light transmission of the plant.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year; for some flowers and trees prone to pests and diseases, such as rose, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, grape, Malus halliana, etc., promptly spray Bordeaux mixture, etc. after leaf expansion, which can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust, etc.

    2. Management of field-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and field planted in March include: Dianthus, snapdragon, pot marigold, daisy, hollyhock, mallow, silver-edged Liriope, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes rosea, iris, Reineckea carnea, Ophiopogon japonicus, Ophiopogon japonicus, red-flowered Oxalis, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or herbaceous flowers transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have already resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer as topdressing, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted Chimonanthus praecox, plum blossom, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Pyracantha, Japanese white pine, heavenly bamboo, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma congestum, Fraxinus chinensis, etc. placed in the open, repotting can be done before they sprout and leaf out, replacing them with loose, fertile fresh potting soil rich in organic matter, to lay a good foundation for spring and summer growth. For Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, rose, jasmine, Chinese hibiscus, Strelitzia reginae, sago palm, poinsettia, Camellia sasanqua, Camellia japonica, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, bitter orange, fingered citron, lemon, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Clivia, Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea, etc. placed indoors, repotting should be done before they are moved out of the room.

(2) Hardening. In regions north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor maintenance in March, and equal attention must be paid to both cold protection and ventilation. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move southward, in early and mid-March cold protection and heat preservation work must still continue; in late March, doors and windows of the room can be opened during the day for ventilation and closed at night, so that Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, jasmine, Chinese hibiscus, poinsettia, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', rubber tree, Araucaria heterophylla, etc. can gradually receive hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding premature sprouting that affects the year's growth and normal flowering. For potted flowers in regions north of the Yellow River, heat preservation and cold protection work still need to continue this month, and care must not be relaxed.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Chinese hibiscus, Fuchsia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia alba, sago palm, rubber tree, fish-tail palm, areca palm, Codiaeum variegatum, asparagus fern, and Begonia species, carry out necessary pruning together with repotting, including cutting off diseased and pest-infested branches, dead branches, irregularly shaped branches, weak branches, and some yellowed leaves, etc. For Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Juniperus chinensis, Huangshan pine, black pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma congestum, Syzygium buxifolium, etc. mainly appreciated for their tree stumps, wiring and pruning can also be done in March before sprouting to further improve their shapes. For plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, etc., strong renewal pruning can be done after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, and it is also impossible for all to live on the first floor and have a relatively good small environment for growing flowers. More often, people grow some relatively resistant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Among ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting, one category is relatively drought-tolerant plant species. Their body surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or their plant bodies are fleshy and thick and contain relatively much sap, or their leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle shapes, with very little transpiration and water consumption, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and therefore are very drought-tolerant, such as sago palm, cacti (Opuntia microdasys, Cereus peruvianus, Crassula lycopodioides, Echinocactus grusonii, large columnar cactus, Astrophytum, Aporocactus flagelliformis, coral tree), Portulacaria afra, jade plant, jewel flower, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum, orchid cactus, leaf cactus, kalanchoe, etc. There are also Chimonanthus praecox, winter jasmine, Lycoris radiata, Spathiphyllum, Aglaonema modestum, spider plant, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, so they are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is another category of flower species that are relatively resistant to sunlight exposure and dry hot winds, can accept full light, and can withstand short periods of unusually high temperatures, and are also suitable for balcony potted planting, especially on high-floor balconies, such as pomegranate, rose, Ficus microcarpa, orchid, Ligustrum quihoui, Agave, Hippeastrum, Sageretia thea, Xylosma congestum, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, black pine, Juniperus formosana, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Ilex cornuta, holly, Vitex negundo, Euonymus verrucosoides, longevity peach, purslane, etc. In addition, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Japanese white pine, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra elatior, fingered citron, bitter orange, lemon, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Camellia japonica, Schefflera octophylla, Araucaria heterophylla, etc. can also be used as slightly lower-level balcony potted plants, but water and shade management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as scarlet sage, ornamental pepper, winter coral, marigold, Impatiens, petunia, etc., can be sown and raised as seedlings in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of asparagus fern or Clivia seeds has been collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and after the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, they can be moved to an outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum, orchid cactus, jade plant, jewel flower, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, coral tree, Crassula lycopodioides, etc. can be propagated by cuttings indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flowerpot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as the cutting medium, and propagate by cuttings indoors at a relatively bright spot beside a windowsill: gardenia, Fuchsia, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, rose pomegranate, Chaenomeles speciosa, heavenly bamboo, Daphne odora, Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot opening must be well covered with plastic film for moisture retention.

On the balcony, when grafting Japanese white pine, Japanese red pine, plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., bagging for moisture retention must be carried out; otherwise it is not easy to survive.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potting are still indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation, and light exposure, plants that need repotting should be repotted promptly. For relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, the potting soil should be kept from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants that year, but in severe cases cause plant death. Measures such as building temporary shelters on site or moving them indoors or into tunnels can be taken for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For tree stumps such as Chimonanthus praecox, Ilex cornuta, holly, black pine, Japanese white pine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ligustrum quihoui, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil can be replaced; for bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist as the standard, water once every 3 to 5 days, and appropriately spray water. For plum blossom, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Chimonanthus praecox, longevity peach, Camellia japonica, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape. Carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cutting off branches and leaves infected by pests and diseases and destroying them; for dry and withered cut surfaces on tree stumps, lime sulfur mixture, etc. can be applied for anti-corrosion treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board placed on top (prefabricated with cement and rebar). Using the humidity produced by evaporation from the water pool, in summer some flowers that relatively like air humidity can be placed on it, such as orchid species, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Ardisia crenata, heavenly bamboo, etc. The stored water is relatively ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out of the room, you can also first set up stepped racks on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer, so that once potted flowers are moved out and encounter excessively strong sunlight, shade measures can quickly be put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare potting soil for repotting, and prepare sufficient various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Edition)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, the warm and humid airflow from the south becomes stronger and stronger, and temperatures rise noticeably. After Qingming, although there is occasionally the influence of cold air moving south, it can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River; only in areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River does the harm of snow and frost remain. By after Guyu, the late frost has ended in areas south of the Yangtze-Huai region, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for maintenance; while in areas north of the Huai River, potted flowers can only be moved out after the late frost ends in May. From south to north in April, flower tasks include the following:

1. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include spider flower, Mirabilis jalapa, cockscomb, Amaranthus tricolor, purslane, small dahlia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, Impatiens, morning glory, Quamoclit coccinea, Quamoclit sloteri, Nicotiana tabacum, petunia, China aster, Coreopsis, golden coreopsis, marigold, red-yellow chrysanthemum, zinnia, asparagus fern, Primula obconica, nasturtium, Kochia scoparia, Hibiscus trionum, Euphorbia heterophylla, basil, Asparagus densiflorus, cosmos, Adenophora, Mimosa pudica, etc. Magnoliaceae flower and tree species that can be sown in April after sand stratification include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia chapensis, Magnolia zenii, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia wufengensis, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia parapolygona, Manglietia fordiana, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia ruyuanensis, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia, Michelia multiflora, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia wilsonii, Liriodendron chinense, Liriodendron tulipifera hybrid, Liriodendron tulipifera, etc.; other greening flowers and trees that can be sown in April include: Japanese fir, golden larch, Araucaria heterophylla, Pseudolarix amabilis, crape myrtle, redbud, Albizia julibrissin, Taxus chinensis, Pittosporum tobira, Chinese tallow, Koelreuteria bipinnata, Sapindus mukorossi, sweetgum, Acer species, Ormosia henryi, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Exochorda racemosa, Lycium chinense, heavenly bamboo, Ardisia crenata, palm, etc.

Other greening flowers and trees that can be sown in April include: Japanese fir, golden larch, Araucaria heterophylla, Pseudolarix amabilis, crape myrtle, redbud, Albizia julibrissin, Taxus chinensis, Pittosporum tobira, Chinese tallow, Koelreuteria bipinnata, Sapindus mukorossi, sweetgum, Acer species, Ormosia henryi, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Exochorda racemosa, Lycium chinense, heavenly bamboo, Ardisia crenata, palm, etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown as collected in April include: Gerbera, asparagus fern, primrose, winter coral, Fatsia japonica, and nipplefruit, etc. Among them, for Fatsia japonica, fruits that have turned black, whitish, and soft can be picked at the end of April, and after rubbing and washing out the seeds, they can be sown on fertile seedling beds, or the seeds can first be sand-stratified until they crack and show white and then sown, covered with grass for moisture retention. Generally after about two weeks, after about 70% of the seed grains have emerged, promptly remove the covering grass and at the same time set up shade. For cultivating nipplefruit, the outer skin of the picked golden-yellow fruits can be peeled off, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days the seed grains can germinate and emerge. When the seedlings have grown 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, transplanting can be carried out. They can be potted to view the fruits, or field planted and cultivated as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flower and tree species that can be grafted in April include: Chimonanthus praecox, Sophora japonica var. pendula, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-flowered Robinia hispida, as well as cactus balls and Christmas cactus, etc.

    3. Division

Indoor foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily (Spathiphyllum), snake plant (Sansevieria), cast iron plant (Aspidistra), ferns, broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis), spider plant (Chlorophytum), agave, silver king dieffenbachia, Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), Guangdong evergreen, maranta family, aloe, peperomia, Swiss cheese plant (Monstera), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, and others. Ornamental plants suitable for division in April include: spider plant, five-color leaf, safflower, snapdragon, aster, coreopsis, begonia, chrysanthemum, ginger lily, daylily, oxalis, and more. Ornamental plants suitable for sowing in April include: dahlia, flower tobacco, pansy, black-eyed Susan, sweet alyssum, aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, cockscomb, morning glory, nasturtium, golden chrysanthemum, ornamental pepper, winter coral, etc. In addition, ginger lily and chrysanthemum can also be divided at this time.

    4. Cuttings

For most flower and tree species that root easily, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can be propagated by cuttings in April. The main species include: boxwood, mahonia, nandina, cypress, podocarpus, pomegranate, crape myrtle, redbud, firethorn, spiraea, tulip tree, snowflake spiraea, paperbush, and flowering quince.

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if not too much old soil is removed and roots are not excessively pruned during repotting, they can still be repotted in April. However, it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowering trees, if the new shoots are too long, especially for plum blossoms, they must absolutely not be repotted after the leaves have unfurled.

    2. April is the best time for transplanting outdoor flowering trees. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfurled or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with a soil ball in April. For evergreen flowering trees such as camphor tree, southern magnolia, Michelia, and white orchid, a portion of branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce transpiration from the canopy. For deciduous flowering trees, it is best to transplant them before they leaf out, such as white magnolia, horse chestnut, linden, crabapple, wintersweet, red-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, and apricot. Generally, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the transplanted tree. Only in this way, without damaging the soil ball, can the transplanted tree be free from worry.

III. Bonsai Shaping

April is one of the best periods for bonsai shaping. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice shaping are those with strong adaptability whose branches can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as podocarpus, green cypress, serissa, water willow, true cypress, winged euonymus, crape myrtle, velvet cypress, flowering cypress, banyan, boxwood, Chinese elm, winter jasmine, paperbush, ginkgo, black pine, and Chinese juniper. Other species suitable for shaping in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, red bayberry, Chinese fringe tree, trident maple, oak, galo wood, golden bullet tree, weeping crabapple, Fujian tea, papaya, elaeagnus, holly, golden larch, and tiger thorn.

As bonsai plants begin their vigorous growth, metal or non-metal wire should be used promptly for continuous wiring, guiding, and correction to maintain a good ornamental state. For the care of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid to the following three aspects this month: First, timely bud removal. When the winter buds begin to swell and granular needle leaf primordia appear on them, 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length can be removed to promote shorter and denser new shoots. Second, remove female and male cones. When needle bundle buds and male and female cones can be distinguished on new shoots, all female cones at the tips of new shoots and male cones at the base of new shoots should be promptly removed to reduce nutrient consumption during reproductive growth. Third, control watering. From the beginning of new shoot growth, watering should be strictly controlled, watering only when dry and substituting spraying for watering, to ensure that the new needles are short and clustered, keeping the branch pads flat and well-formed.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, azalea, winter jasmine, forsythia, daphne, kumquat, bitter orange, winter coral, Christmas cactus, Cymbidium goeringii, large-flowered cymbidium, New Year orchid, and phaius, because flowering or fruiting has consumed a large amount of nutrients, when they resume growth after warm spring weather, they need topdressing with nitrogen-based fertilizer, such as thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote their growth. For potted flower species about to bloom such as Chinese rose, redbud, pomegranate, Jianlan orchid, hibiscus, and white orchid, topdressing should also be applied, which can be monopotassium phosphate at a concentration of about 0.2%. For ground-planted white magnolia, purple magnolia, Michelia, plum blossom, wintersweet, and crabapple after flowering, timely topdressing should also be applied to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping and Maintenance

Money tree (Pachira aquatica) can be braided in April. Dig up seedlings grown from seed or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7. After braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then select a suitable pot for planting. The money tree has extremely strong vitality; even if it cannot be processed into a braid or planted in time, being spread out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjusting Plant Shape and Preventing Diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and withered stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management. For flower species prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Ornamental Fruit Potted Plants

For potted ornamental fruit flowering plants that bloom in April, such as papaya, ginkgo, firethorn, Japanese aucuba, and weeping crabapple, especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period, attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so that they can normally set fruit. Do not miss this good opportunity.

    5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly propagated ornamental plants by cuttings, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management. Except where intermittent misting equipment is available, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times daily to keep the cutting medium moist at all times, creating the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Handbook: Summer

Flower Planting Handbook (May Edition)

Climate characteristics of May: Temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north across China. After each rainfall, the temperature rises noticeably. There are many days of continuous spring rain. After the spring rains end around Xiaoman, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a critical period for planting and caring for flowers. It plays an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. May flower care, from south to north, mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flower and flowering tree species that can be sown immediately after harvest in May mainly include: four-season primrose, Japanese aralia, broadleaf mahonia, and loquat. When sowing and raising seedlings in May, pay attention to the following three points: First, keep the sowing bed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry. Second, cover the sowing bed with grass to retain moisture, preventing rapid changes in moisture that could cause seeds to "return to bud." Third, after seedlings emerge, remove the covering grass in several stages and promptly set up shade to prevent scorching the seedlings.

For osmanthus, mature blue-black fruits can be harvested at the end of May. Mix with sand and rub off the flesh, rinse clean, and store in moist clean fine sand until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and the radicle tip is exposed should they be sown in the ground. During storage, prevent rodents from eating them and keep the sand moist.

For loquat sowing, the covering soil should not be too deep, generally no more than 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttings

Flower species suitable for cutting propagation in May include: scarlet sage (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, sulfur cosmos, Chinese rose, azalea, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower, poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, coral tree, nasturtium, white jasmine, jasmine, chloranthus, red mulberry, deutzia, hydrangea, kerria, pomegranate, hibiscus syriacus, butterfly bush, trumpet creeper, gardenia, epiphyllum, rhaphidophora, orchid cactus, jade plant, gem flower, mountain magnolia, magnolia bud, flowering quince, umbrella plant, lantana, red-back eupatorium, shrimp plant, gold-bracted flower, bleeding heart vine, Guangdong evergreen, cordyline, pothos, schefflera, oleander, firethorn, mahonia, and Buddha belly bamboo with aerial roots.

    3. Grafting

In May, use 1- to 2-year-old potted purple magnolia seedlings or cuttings to graft-propagate white orchid and Michelia; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and weeping maple; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old hairy azalea cuttings for cleft grafting to propagate Western azalea; use wild rose as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior rose varieties; use yellow wormwood as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior chrysanthemum varieties; use 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock for softwood grafting of superior wintersweet varieties, or use potted rootstocks for graft propagation. In addition, cactus and triangular stem can be used as rootstocks for grafting to propagate Christmas cactus.

    4. Layering

Flowering tree species that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid, rubber tree, Aglaia, Western azalea, camellia, croton, Michelia, and red maple. Species that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese rose, gardenia, podocarpus, osmanthus, and trumpet creeper.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, the vast majority of species must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom on schedule by late September to early October, creating a joyful, enthusiastic, and colorful festive atmosphere. The main species include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur cosmos, aster, Kochia scoparia, marigold, dragon's mouth flower, asparagus fern, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, and begonia.

    2. Transplanting

From late April to early May, transplanting white magnolia after flowering but just before bud break and leaf unfurling gives the highest survival rate. Some flowering trees that sprout later and are easy to transplant can also be transplanted with soil balls in early May, such as crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, redbud, pomegranate, and silk tree.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, the water demand of potted ornamental plants will gradually increase. In addition to combining root watering with foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of irrigation and spray water. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not directly use tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a reservoir or small tank, and an appropriate amount of acidifying substance added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, at a concentration of 0.1% to 0.2%. Potted flower species suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, azalea, rhododendron, gardenia, daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple, and red-flowered camellia. Foliage plants include: sago palm, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Swiss cheese plant, broadleaf lady palm, rubber tree, ferns, podocarpus, croton, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, arrowhead plant, maranta, bromeliads, Brazilian wood, money tree, and schefflera. Ornamental fruit plants include: bitter orange, firethorn, kumquat, Buddha's hand, lemon, nandina, winter coral, and coral berry.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For the pruning back of white orchid that has recently been moved outdoors, special attention must be paid because its branch pith is loose, and the cut surface easily loses water, dries out, and extends downward. For this reason, consider cutting 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained; never cut too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose post-bloom pruning, the height should be moderately lowered by 10 to 20 cm, so that bud eyes in the middle of the branch can differentiate into flower buds.

(2) Bud removal: For bud removal on potted wintersweet plants, attention should also be paid to the location. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud; otherwise, the wound will dry and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud below. For Chinese roses potted that year, promptly remove the terminal bud to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under shade structures or tree shade. Species include: Swiss cheese plant, broadleaf lady palm, maranta, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, pink lady leaf, fan palm, arrowhead plant, orchids, azalea, bird of paradise, camellia, and sasanqua. For light-loving flowering trees, full light must be provided, such as wintersweet, sago palm, Chinese rose, firethorn, jasmine, and white orchid. Bonsai plants such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, trident maple, water willow, oak, serissa, black pine, and soft pine require full light. Podocarpus, tiger thorn, red bayberry, green cypress, and five-needle pine can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia, azalea, sasanqua, plum blossom, Aglaia, jasmine, white orchid, gardenia, wintersweet, Chinese rose, daphne, clivia, orchids, and crabapple: after flowering, remove spent flowers and withered stems, and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen with phosphorus as a supplement, once every half month. While restoring their vegetative growth, this lays the foundation for re-differentiating flower buds. For foliage-oriented species such as rubber tree, Swiss cheese plant, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, cast iron plant, and ferns, apply thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For foliage plants with colored spots or patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant, colorful bromeliad, golden-heart Brazilian wood, croton, caladium, white butterfly arrowhead plant, and pink lady leaf, a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied as a foliar feed, which can make the leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Chinese rose, wild rose, and rugosa rose, attention should be paid to preventing and controlling powdery mildew and brown spot disease. For leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticides to kill them. For citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae that commonly appear on bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, Buddha's hand, lemon, and rue, spray pesticides early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

Ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be shaped in May include: plum blossom, small-leaf gardenia, mountain gardenia, podocarpus, serissa, green cypress, water willow, galo wood, and ginkgo. It is worth noting that shaping must be done carefully and cautiously, trying not to damage the bark and structure of the branches; otherwise, it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Handbook (June Edition)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huaihe River basin enters the plum rain season. This year, plum rain began on June 12 and ended on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in this region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with prolonged continuous rain. For some flowers that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant, and for the vast majority of bonsai, care should be taken to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light, which could disrupt shaping or affect normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. June flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering tree species that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seeds, cycad, loquat, and wintersweet. For wintersweet, when the urn-shaped fruit capsules on the mother tree turn from green to yellow, and then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be harvested. Promptly peel open the fruit capsule and extract the seeds. First soak in cold water for 24 to 36 hours. After the seeds absorb enough water and swell, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white, at which point sow in furrows. The covering soil thickness is generally 2 to 3 cm. Cover with straw to retain moisture. After most seeds' cotyledons emerge, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 stages and promptly set up shade.

    2. Cuttings

Summer has high temperatures and high humidity, and the cambium in flowering tree branches is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation of flowering trees. There are two major categories of flowering trees suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category consists of species that are difficult to root or root slowly from hardwood cuttings, such as osmanthus, camellia, Michelia, holly, wintergreen, lilac, purple magnolia, flowering quince, snowball, Chinese snowball, coral tree, coral tree, Belgian azalea, Buddha belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood, pond cypress, and bald cypress. The other category consists of species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood, Chinese rose, firethorn, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, serissa, pomegranate, hibiscus syriacus, broom, jasmine, chloranthus, dragon leaf pearl, lantana, kerria, bougainvillea, Buddha's hand, lemon, podocarpus, nandina, trumpet creeper, red-back eupatorium, honeysuckle, hibiscus, cordyline, hypericum, golden spirea, golden willow, dragon claw willow, banyan, Brazilian iron, ardisia, paperbush, croton, deutzia, mock orange, crape myrtle, weigela, trumpet honeysuckle, bridal wreath spiraea, coral tree, schefflera, mahonia, Japanese aralia, snowflake spiraea, hydrangea, and poinsettia. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-clawed golden dragon, ivy, nasturtium, corydalis, qianqiu tea, heliotrope, umbrella plant, geranium, coleus, begonia, pansy, globe amaranth, zinnia, French marigold, marigold, and sulfur cosmos.

Taking fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings of camellia and osmanthus as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is ideal when the softwood of osmanthus and camellia is semi-lignified. The medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite. The cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip. The lower cut end is dipped for 10 seconds in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetic acid solution. After brief drying, insert into the seedling bed. The insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with a spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches over the bed, cover with plastic film, and press the edges firmly with mud. Set up double-layer shade for light blocking. Keep the bed surface moist. Control the temperature inside the film at around 30°C and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally, after one month, the cuttings will root in large numbers.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: Use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft superior wintersweet varieties; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to graft white orchid and Michelia. Bud grafting: Use wild rose seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior rose varieties; use 1-year-old apricot, peach, and plum seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, dwarf flowering cherry, plum blossom, and elm-leaved spirea. Use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and red maple. Cleft grafting: Use oil tea, red-flowered oil tea, or single-petaled seedling camellia as rootstock for cleft grafting of camellia and sasanqua; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" hairy azaleas as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting of Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in June include: azalea, honeysuckle, hydrangea, snowball flower, Chinese snowball, weigela, oleander, osmanthus, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, Aglaia, chloranthus, jasmine, and white orchid.

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: Boston fern, calla lily (after flowering), Buddha belly bamboo, umbrella plant, purple-backed oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, cast iron plant, spider plant, acorus, and golden-edge lilyturf.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting/Establishment

    1. Seed Collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus, cornflower, snapdragon, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, hollyhock, mallow, primrose, calceolaria, and amaryllis (sow immediately after harvest).

    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in June: After harvesting wintersweet seeds, if nursery conditions do not permit, the extracted seeds can also be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, without affecting the germination rate. Peaches and apricots should be sown immediately after harvest, or their seeds stored in sand until they crack and germinate before sowing in the ground. Osmanthus seeds harvested in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed, be washed clean, and stored in moist sand to promote embryo after-ripening. When they germinate, select a nursery site for sowing.

    2. Transplanting, Establishment, and Potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need to be transplanted, established, or potted. They are: evening primrose, spider flower, impatiens, Guinea impatiens, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter coral, red tobacco, petunia, marigold, French marigold, zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, dragon's mouth flower, Kochia scoparia, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, and red-green leaf.

Entering summer, some large flowering trees are no longer transplanted to avoid affecting their survival rate and post-transplant growth. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Japanese aralia, broadleaf mahonia, mahonia, hypericum, gardenia, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, and boxwood, under special circumstances, transplanting with a soil ball is also acceptable, just as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, but don't let the tree know." However, after transplanting, strengthen misting and shading management.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    Watering potted flowers in June should pay attention to the following aspects: First, watering time. It is best at 10 AM or 5 PM. Generally, watering once a day is sufficient. Second, water temperature. The irrigation water should be kept basically consistent with the pot soil temperature. If the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will cause stimulation to the root system and leaves of potted flowers, affecting their growth. Third, combine watering and spraying. During weather with no rain for several days, in addition to watering the pots, also spray water on the leaf surfaces and around the potted flowers to increase local humidity. If there are continuous overcast days, decide whether to water and spray based on the moisture condition of the pot soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red wood sorrel, geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, and begonia. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, reduce watering and just keep the pot soil moist. Deeply dormant species such as: cyclamen, lycoris (species), ranunculus, and Dutch peony. Under high temperatures, their aboveground stems and leaves wither, and underground nutrient fibrous roots die. They overwinter in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. Watering must be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the pot soil should just be kept from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rain, after the rain stops, comprehensively check the potted flowers. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible. After the pot soil dries, loosen the soil to avoid root rot. Alternatively, before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers on their sides, and after the rain stops, set them upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing species such as Swiss cheese plant, spider plant, arrowhead plant, maranta, Boston fern, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, sago palm, cast iron plant, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, green queen, rubber tree, anthurium, red-back eupatorium, broadleaf lady palm, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian iron, podocarpus, money tree, wintersweet, Chinese rose, white orchid, Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, daphne, azalea, fragrant osmanthus, lantana, bleeding heart vine, shrimp plant, bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, and firethorn, apply thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For species currently blooming, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to meet their needs for growth, flowering, and fruiting.

For those flower species in dormant or semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for succulent flower species such as jade plant, Christmas cactus, Haworthia, Senecio, squirrel tail, Lampranthus, stapelia, and sedum, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, stop fertilizing to avoid rot.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, podocarpus, Fujian tea, true cypress, green cypress, water willow, Chinese juniper, holly, wintergreen, trident maple, snow willow, tamarisk, and firethorn, promptly prune or cut back branches that affect the shape. This can keep the plant well-layered and good-looking, and can promote more short shoots and new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal: For flowers such as Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, and Chinese rose, promptly remove spent flowers and withered stems, and appropriately cut back the branches that have flowered, to promote reblooming of lower lateral branches or flower buds. For flowering trees such as white orchid, bitter orange, azalea, camellia, wintersweet, plum blossom, and crabapple, in order to promote good plant shape and more flower buds, more flowers, and better flowers in the current or next year, pinch and remove buds from overly vigorous branches to inhibit the growth of terminal and lateral shoots, promoting the sprouting of lateral buds.

    4. Shading

    In June, for flowering trees that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under shade structures to prevent damage from scorching sun. Such as hosta, purple hosta, asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchids, broadleaf lady palm, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, arrowhead plant, pink lady leaf, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, pothos, peperomia, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, red queen, fan palm, daphne, cast iron plant, and spider plant. Light-loving flower species must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, serissa, cycad, Chinese juniper, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, Japanese apricot, holly, wintergreen, water willow, oak, black pine, soft pine, white orchid, Aglaia, Chinese rose, mahonia, and grape. Podocarpus, tiger thorn, nandina, Buddha belly bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, five-needle pine, and can be given appropriate shading.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper, green cypress, Chinese elm, papaya, firethorn, podocarpus, and crabapple are prone to damage from trunk-boring longhorn beetles. Promptly use poisoned sticks to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose, wild rose, and rugosa rose are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot disease during the plum rain season. Spray Bordeaux mixture early for prevention and control.

(3) White orchid, plum blossom, and wintersweet are prone to aphid damage. Promptly select appropriate pesticides for spraying and killing.

(4) Orchid leaves are susceptible to anthracnose infection. Promptly spray carbendazim and other fungicides for prevention and control.

(5) Bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, and Buddha's hand have tender leaves prone to being eaten by citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae. Spray contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

Plant species that can be shaped in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and must be plants that were potted and hardened in early spring or grown in the ground. They are: podocarpus, winter jasmine, elaeagnus, Huashan pine, green cypress, Chinese juniper, holly, wintergreen, goji berry, five-needle pine, weeping crabapple, Xifu crabapple, plum blossom, ornamental peach, trident maple, serissa, black pine, boxwood, Chinese elm, tamarisk, water willow, true cypress, ginkgo, snow willow, and firethorn. Shaping in June must be careful, with light wiring and slow bending. Never rush or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5 is Grain in Ear; June 21 is Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Handbook (July Edition)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain season ends in the Yangtze-Huaihe region. July 16 is the start of the dog days, and August 15 is the end of the dog days. Most parts of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of China is above 24°C, and in areas south of the Yangtze-Huaihe region it is 28°C. Only northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau have average July temperatures below 20°C. July flower care mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria, four-season primrose, ornamental kale, and campanula. When sowing, pay attention to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light.
    In July, mature fruits of plum, peach, wild peach, and elm-leaved spirea can also be harvested. After washing off the fruit flesh, sow immediately in furrows, or store the washed stone fruits in moist sand until they crack, then sow. Wintersweet seeds can be sown immediately after harvest, or the seeds extracted from the fruit capsules can be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, without affecting the germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    Herbaceous flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: purslane, begonia, coleus, clearweed, scarlet sage, marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Dutch aster, purple loosestrife, umbrella plant, creeping fig, coral flower, peperomia, rhaphidophora, knotweed, kalanchoe, and pothos.
    Woody flowering plant species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: red-back eupatorium, nandina, poinsettia, crown of thorns, hypericum, golden spirea, weigela, hydrangea, trumpet honeysuckle, bridal wreath spiraea, snowflake spiraea, daphne, gardenia, paperbush, mountain magnolia, bougainvillea, Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, schefflera, mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, firethorn, cordyline, hibiscus, serissa, Michelia, coral tree, rubber tree, Chinese snowball, Tianmu snowball, boxwood, fig, purple magnolia, osmanthus, azalea, camellia, sasanqua, dragon claw willow, and golden willow. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July, some flowering trees can also be propagated by water cuttings. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, chloranthus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, and hibiscus syriacus. To propagate flowering trees by water cuttings: First, prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 to 2 cm thick, perforated for use as cutting support material. Second, keep the cutting water clean; a few pieces of charcoal can be added for anti-rot purposes.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old wild peach or peach seedlings can be used as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, elm-leaved spirea, purple-leaf plum, and beauty plum. Use cuttings of wild rose, pink cluster rose, and "Ten Sisters" as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate variety roses, cut-flower roses, and rugosa roses. Use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock for graft propagation of white orchid and Michelia. Use 2-year-old potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock for graft propagation of superior wintersweet varieties. Alternatively, use 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock, using the softwood side grafting with bagging moisture retention method, grafting at 3 to 4 cm above the ground. After 7 to 10 days, whether it has survived can be determined. Use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" hairy azaleas as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea. Use cherry seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior cherry blossom varieties. Use current-year seedling plants of Manchurian crabapple, Hubei crabapple, weeping crabapple, or crabapple as rootstock, performing "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate superior crabapple varieties. Use Japanese maple seedlings as rootstock, bagging grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and other seedlings.
    4. Layering
    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, trumpet creeper, Chinese snowball, oleander, weigela, broom, osmanthus, gardenia, purple magnolia, jasmine, chloranthus, climbing rose, and winter jasmine.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta, purple hosta, acorus, umbrella plant, cast iron plant, purple-backed oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, rain lily, Boston fern, iris, and inch plant. II. Seed Collection and Transplanting/Establishment
    1. Seed Collection
    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, coreopsis, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, and Lampranthus.
    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, plum, peach, wild peach, and elm-leaved spirea.
    2. Transplanting, Establishment, and Potting
    July is the main period for potting herbaceous flowers for display during National Day. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted at this time can be seedlings from seed or cuttings. After 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom right around National Day for holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, small dahlia, Guinea impatiens, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, Kochia scoparia, aster, sulfur cosmos, and cockscomb.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted. However, under some special circumstances, transplanting some flowering shrubs with soil balls is also feasible, such as mahonia, hypericum, golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, Japanese aucuba, and dragon juniper balls. However, targeted pruning must be done, shade must be set up promptly, and the frequency of misting should be increased. After they have basically survived, switch to normal management. Never be careless.
III. Flower Management
    1. Watering
Flower species that enter a semi-dormant state at high temperatures, such as red-flowered wood sorrel (Oxalis), geraniums (Pelargonium), fuchsia, clivia (Clivia miniata), calla lily, begonias, sedum, kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), cacti, Haworthia, Stapelia, string of pearls (Senecio rowleyanus), string of rubies (Othonna capensis), Daphne, Christmas cactus, portulacaria (Portulacaria afra), aloe, etc. Because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low. Watering should be reduced, the potting soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it easily causes root rot and also seriously affects their recovery growth after autumn.
Flower species that enter a deep dormant state at high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, Ranunculus asiaticus, and bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis), show withered above-ground stems and leaves in July, while the underground nutrient fibrous roots die off, surviving the summer as underground stems or tuberous roots dormant in the soil. For deeply dormant flowers, watering should be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the potting soil should merely be kept from becoming too dry.
For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Aspidistra, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Michelia alba, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), Calathea species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', Calathea roseopicta, Dracaena fragrans, money tree (Pachira aquatica), camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Aucuba japonica, Pyracantha, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon, Podocarpus macrophyllus, pomegranate, redbud (Cercis chinensis), wisteria, Chinese rose, etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but the leaves should also be appropriately misted, combining watering and spraying. Especially during continuous overcast days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and misting should likewise be carried out, and this must not be neglected. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first mist the leaves, and after the leaves recover and stand up, then water the roots. Never pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it very easily causes woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or leads to the rotting of the plant's nutrient fibrous roots, and may even cause the plant to die.
For potted plum bonsai, since July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be applied to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves of the potted plant slightly curled inward on both sides to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new flush produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest. Flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axil of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, the few hours around noon should be avoided. Watering before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. is preferable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain. If water accumulates in the pots, pour it out in time, and after the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of the potted plants.
    2. Fertilization
    In July, there are four major categories of ornamental plants that should have their fertilization management strengthened. First, species with especially long flowering periods, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Magnolia denudata, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, etc.; second, species that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, and cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), etc.; third, species grown in winter for their flowers and fruit, such as bitter orange, nandina, wintersweet, and rhododendron, etc.; fourth, foliage plants, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, rubber tree, etc. As for the types of fertilizer: for the first three categories, besides applying the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for their budding, flowering, and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the application method, thin liquid fertilizer applied by watering is preferable.
    In July, the herbaceous flowers that should have fertilization strengthened include: scarlet sage (red, white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, Cymbidium ensifolium, marigold, four o'clock flower (Mirabilis jalapa), and dragon's mouth flower, etc. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, banana shrub (Michelia figo), osmanthus, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, hibiscus, jasmine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum), Chinese rose, begonias, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, wintersweet, rose of Sharon, and cotton rose, etc. There are relatively many kinds of foliage plants, such as bromeliads, Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, Calathea, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Cordyline fruticosa, etc.
   In July, for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for those succulent ornamental plants, such as sedums, Senecio articulatus, Lampranthus, and Stapelia, fertilization must be stopped even more, to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be tip-pruned and have their buds pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means directly removing the young terminal buds at the shoot tips with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, boxleaf euonymus (Euonymus japonicus), wintersweet, firethorn, Podocarpus macrophyllus, tamarisk, Elaeagnus pungens, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia, hackberry (Celtis sinensis), Fukien tea (Carmona retusa), banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple, crape myrtle, Serissa japonica, and orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata), etc. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of the new shoots, inducing the lower lateral buds to sprout, so that they form beautiful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are not convenient for finger pinching, such as junipers (Juniperus rigida), Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Xylosma racemosum, Ilex cornuta, and Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', etc.
For those potted flower species that bloom continuously over a long period, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, and Chloranthus spicatus, their spent flowers and withered stalks should be removed in time, and the branches that have already flowered should be cut back as necessary, which can induce the lower lateral buds to sprout and bloom again. For rhododendron, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, begonia, wintersweet, plum blossom, etc., overly long branches sticking out of the crown should also be cut back, so as to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperatures of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade shed, to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun exposure. Such as ferns, hosta, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), Monstera deliciosa, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, bird of paradise (Strelitzia), orchids, Rhapis excelsa, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Calathea roseopicta, pothos, pepperomia, Aspidistra, Tradescantia zebrina, Dracaena fragrans, Epipremnum pinnatum, bromeliads, Calathea species, Reineckea carnea, etc.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, firethorn, jasmine, Serissa japonica, sago palm, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, black pine, Adina rubella, Xylosma racemosum, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, etc. For Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, banana shrub, Damnacanthus indicus, Asparagus setaceus, Bambusa multiplex, and five-needle pine, etc., it is necessary to provide appropriate shading.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature this month is too high and the air is relatively dry, besides giving necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand. This can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and also help protect the plants' nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, flower species with a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or with a relatively thick cuticle on the leaf surface, somewhat tolerant of dry environments, and with strong resistance should be chosen, such as rubber tree, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Hibiscus mutabilis, fan palm (Livistona), Rhapis excelsa, Canary Island date palm, bromeliads, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera, Aspidistra, Aucuba japonica, etc., while plants such as sword fern (Nephrolepis), Coleus, Philodendron 'Green Giant', and Syngonium are not suitable. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and misting, and keeping them away from air-conditioner vents, to prevent the wind from blowing directly on the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf margins to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are prone to infection by anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and, in severe cases, can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the disease period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or Folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the root crowns or main trunks of plum blossom, peach blossom, begonias, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, and Prunus triloba, etc., it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach longhorn beetle (Aromia bungii) boring and feeding. Methods such as manual removal and killing, injecting systemic pesticide, inserting and plugging poison sticks, and burying carbofuran in the soil can be used for control, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, dimethoate, omethoate, etc. must not be used, to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, timely control should be carried out against the box tree pyralid (Diaphania perspectalis) that harms boxleaf euonymus, boxleaf euonymus 'Japonica', Euonymus japonicus var. acutus, and Euonymus japonicus 'Microphyllus'. When this insect occurs severely, it can gnaw all the leaves bare. Once discovered, pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate can be sprayed promptly. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and the pest has developed resistance to it, a new type of pesticide can be substituted.
(4) In July, in some areas, the larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly will continue to harm the leaves of new shoots of bitter orange, kumquat, Glycine max, finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon, Citrus wilsonii, and rue, etc., and stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) For the Chinese wax scale insect (Ericerus pela) that harms glossy privet, Chinese privet, Ligustrum sinense, and Fraxinus chinensis, late July to late August is its emergence period. The right timing should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the Chinese wax scale insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale (Ceroplastes japonicus) is a major pest harming Euonymus japonicus, Platanus orientalis, Pittosporum tobira, camellia, red-leaf plum, and cedar, etc. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai Shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, the air humidity is low, and the plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches that are damaged are prone to infection by pathogens and are not easy to heal and recover, so most tree stump species are no longer suitable for wiring and shaping. The plant species that can still be shaped are those with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and they must be plants that were potted in spring for hardening off or planted in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Thujopsis dolabrata, Calocedrus formosana, Serissa japonica, black pine, boxleaf euonymus, and Adina rubella, etc.
    In July, plant shaping must be done carefully and meticulously, wiring gently and slowly, applying force gradually, and must not be done hastily with excessive force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the branches and trunk of the plant to break, endangering its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Handbook: Autumn

Flower Planting Handbook (August Chapter)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display
    August has high temperatures, strong light, and low humidity, and is the second hottest dry and hot period of the year after July, with the monthly average temperature in most parts of the country between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display are some light-loving or heat-tolerant species. Among the woody flowers are mainly: Norfolk Island pine, black pine, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', five-needle pine, golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), Japanese golden larch (Sciadopitys verticillata), lacebark pine, Japanese fir (Abies firma), Armand pine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus pandurata, hibiscus, Lantana camara, coral tree (Erythrina), Dutch iron (Yucca), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, money tree, Schefflera actinophylla, plumeria, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', oleander, Washington palm, palm, bottle palm (Mascarena lagenicaulis), Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fukien tea, banyan, Chinese rose, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: garden balsam, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, begonia 'Coccinea', dragon's mouth flower, marigold, Tagetes patula, phlox, ornamental pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, pot marigold, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four o'clock flower, zinnia, etc. In addition, there are Aspidistra, Aglaonema, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, and Aglaonema commutatum, etc.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony, Prunus triloba, red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), summer sweet shrub (Calycanthus floridus), American summer sweet shrub (Calycanthus occidentalis), and Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. They can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white before sowing in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be sand-stored to promote germination and then sown in bags. Ornamental pomegranates are harvested after they mature and crack, rubbed and washed to remove the fleshy layer outside the seeds, sand-stored until germination, and then sown. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, Verbena, petunia, snapdragon, coneflower, Oxalis species, yarrow, nasturtium, and pyrethrum, etc. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: Calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, wax begonia, Chinese primrose, Coleus, and pot marigold, etc.
2. Cuttage. Using a mixed medium prepared from alkaline-leached rice chaff ash and wet fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, for moisture-retaining bed cutting or pot cutting, the following flower and tree species can be propagated: firethorn, Mahonia species, wintersweet, banana shrub, bougainvillea, coral tree, Aglaia odorata, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, rubber tree, Osmanthus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Schefflera species, Cordyline fruticosa, hydrangea, and purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), etc. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, etc. as the medium, cuttings can be made of boxwood species, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, French holly (Viburnum awabuki), golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, Serissa japonica, Spiraea, Spiraea thunbergii, and gardenia, etc. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, and sulfur cosmos can also be cut this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flower and tree grafting can be carried out: in northern regions, use Chinese fringetree (Chionanthus retusus) as rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use purple magnolia and Magnolia denudata as rootstocks and bud-graft Magnolia soulangeana; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock and cleft-graft Michelia alba; use current-year seedling of wild peach as rootstock and bud-graft plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf flowering plum, and Prunus triloba, etc.; use cherry seedling as rootstock and bud-graft Japanese cherry; use wild rose and Rosa multiflora as rootstocks and bud-graft superior varieties of Chinese rose; use Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, and Malus hupehensis seedlings as rootstocks and bud-graft Malus spectabilis and Malus halliana; use green maple as rootstock and top-graft red maple and laceleaf maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as rootstock and cleft-graft variegated weeping fig; use single-petaled camellia as rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of camellia; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock and cleft-graft or side-graft superior varieties of wintersweet. In addition, cleft grafting can be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, Rosa banksiae, climbing Chinese rose, Weigela florida, hydrangea, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, oleander, gardenia, Scotch broom (Cytisus scoparius), winter jasmine, Forsythia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus spectabilis, osmanthus species, purple magnolia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, banana shrub, hibiscus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Viburnum odoratissimum, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), and red maple (air layering), etc.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, Syngonium 'Pixie', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', bromeliads, Polygonatum odoratum, Aspidistra, Cyperus alternifolius, Adina pilulifera, red (green) gem, iris, blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), purple triangular wood sorrel (Oxalis triangularis), Aglaonema, Aster novi-belgii, Acorus gramineus, sword fern, Aglaonema commutatum, Calathea species, Syngonium, and Haworthia, etc. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, and freesia, etc. can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of Ground-planted Flowers in the Courtyard
1. Transplanting. In August, when some flowering shrubs are transplanted with large soil balls and supplemented with heavy pruning, management such as shading, watering, and misting should be strengthened after transplanting, and a relatively high survival rate can be achieved, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-edged Platycladus orientalis, golden-hearted (golden-edged) boxwood, Hypericum, Mahonia, Fatsia japonica, Chinese rose, rhododendron, gardenia, Podocarpus macrophyllus, banana shrub, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' ball, Sabina chinensis ball, boxwood ball, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, Aucuba japonica, and French holly, etc. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and established, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, Tagetes patula, and dragon's mouth flower, etc., which can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, for the road hedges in the courtyard such as boxwood, Chinese privet, glossy privet, golden-leaf privet, French holly, and Photinia davidsoniae, pruning should continue to be carried out. For ground-planted ball-shaped plants, such as Photinia, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, bayberry, firethorn, Pittosporum tobira, Ilex cornuta, and holly, pruning must also be done again. For ground-planted flowers and trees that bloom continuously over a long period, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, hibiscus, bougainvillea, and Lantana camara, spent flowers should be removed in time, and the branch tips should be cut back appropriately. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, Tagetes patula, and marigold, tip pruning and pinching should be carried out.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and established herbaceous flowers, watering and misting management should be strengthened. For plants whose trunks are wrapped with straw rope, the straw rope should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Mist more and water cautiously, ensuring that the roots do not accumulate water.
4. Fertilization. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered Loropetalum, golden-edged (golden-hearted) boxwood, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, purple-leaf dwarf cherry, croton, red mulberry (Acalypha wilkesiana), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', and Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', etc., in order to keep their leaf color bright for a long time, quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For species that bloom continuously, such as Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixiang', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', flowering pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, and Lantana camara, etc., as well as species that are about to bloom, such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, and autumn anemone, etc., an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly by watering. For camellia, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, and wintersweet, etc., which are in the midst of flower bud differentiation, a small amount of monopotassium phosphate solution can be sprayed through leaf topdressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on cedar, glossy privet, Pittosporum tobira, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, and camellia, etc., 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution should be sprayed promptly for control. For the chrysanthemum tiger beetle and aphids, etc. occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution can be sprayed to kill them. For the larvae of the rose sawfly and tobacco cutworm, etc. that gnaw the leaves of Chinese rose, 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution should be sprayed promptly for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species from which seeds can be collected include: tree peony, Prunus triloba, red-flowered camellia, Podocarpus macrophyllus, and summer sweet shrub, etc. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: peony, moss rose, four o'clock flower, phlox, California poppy, and snow-in-summer, etc.
Management of Potted Flowers in the Courtyard
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For those ornamental plant species that prefer acidic conditions, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as Calceolaria, gloxinia, Begonia masoniana, and Begonia rex, water droplets that land on the leaf surface are not easy to evaporate and easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the leaf rosette of clivia also must not be sprinkled with water, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water must be given sparingly and misting done more, and water should be poured into the leaf cups to meet their needs. This month, while watering and misting potted plants, attention must be paid to loosening the soil, which can be done once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to become compacted. For flower species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, watering and misting should be controlled, to the extent of maintaining the potting soil slightly moist, and a relatively cool and moist environment can be created for them by misting the small environment around the flower pots.
2. Fertilization. In August, for foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, rubber tree, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, Queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana), Phoenix roebelenii, Areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), Caryota, fan palm, pothos, Dracaena fragrans, Dutch iron, money tree, sword fern, Cordyline, Fagraea ceilanica (African jasmine), Cinnamomum kotoense (Ping'an wood), Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix wood), Syngonium, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', poinsettia, Calathea roseopicta, Schefflera, Aucuba japonica, Chamaedorea elegans, croton, and Fatsia japonica, etc., low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, flower-specific fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with long flowering periods, such as Chinese rose, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixiang', bougainvillea, and Lantana camara, etc., as well as fruit-viewing bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, Diospyros armata, fruit pomegranate, nandina, and papaya, etc., in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as monopotassium phosphate, etc. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, marigold, Tagetes patula, dragon's mouth flower, China aster, chrysanthemum, and dwarf sunflower, etc., thin liquid fertilizer can be applied once every half month, ensuring lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flower and tree species in the midst of flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, osmanthus, and rhododendron, etc., low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied to the leaves. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, the fertilizer liquid must not be dripped on the leaves, to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, after fertilization, mist the leaves once in time to wash off any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, Daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, portulacaria, Christmas cactus, sedums, purple triangular wood sorrel, cacti, and cactus balls, etc., all forms of topdressing must be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the summer heat is still strong, and shading management for courtyard potted flowers is still very important. For those ornamental plant species that prefer cool conditions, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Syngonium 'Pixie', rubber tree, Areca palm, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, Calathea species, red (green) gem, Rhapis excelsa, pothos, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', orchid species, Calathea roseopicta, pepperomia, bromeliads, Adina pilulifera, pilea (Pilea peperomioides), ferns, Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), spider plant, Reineckea carnea, Chamaedorea elegans, Fittonia, Gynura aurantiaca, Ludisia discolor, Aglaonema commutatum, Alocasia, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, begonias, lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), Aspidistra, Asparagus setaceus, and purple hosta, etc., shade sheds can continue to be provided, pulling on shade nets at 9 a.m. and removing them after 4 p.m. If the number of potted flowers is not large, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and then moved out from under the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue to pinch or prune those tree stump bonsai that grow vigorously, tolerate pruning, and sprout easily, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Fukien tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, and boxleaf euonymus, etc. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, and Aglaia odorata, etc., cut back after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and disbudding.?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control should be carried out against pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterfly, rose sawfly, and peach longhorn beetle. Attention should be paid to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight, etc. Attention should be paid to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers, etc.
Potted Plants Suitable for Balcony Display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry, hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or that have long been placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as black pine, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, boxleaf euonymus, Platycladus orientalis stump, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus chinensis, Fukien tea, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave, Lantana camara, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, trident maple, and Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. In August, part of the flowers and trees on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda, Oncidium, South American cycad, Alocasia, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem, Calathea, Areca palm, Queen palm, Syngonium 'Pixie', Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, pothos, Rhapis excelsa, money tree, clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, and Fatsia japonica, etc.
Propagation of Balcony Flowers
In August, on the balcony, large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film can be used to propagate some ornamental plants by moisture-retaining cutting. The cutting medium can be rice chaff ash mixed with fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, or vermiculite can be used alone. Ornamental plant species that can be cut include: Schefflera, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', begonia 'Coccinea', gardenia, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixiang', Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline fruticosa, jasmine, Aglaonema, Aglaonema commutatum, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, and banana shrub, etc. For the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Some ornamental plants can also be water-propagated indoors, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera, Aucuba japonica, fig, Cordyline fruticosa, plumeria, geranium, Aglaonema, and fuchsia, etc.
Management of Balcony Flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and misting balcony potted flowers must be done carefully and cautiously. First, avoid too great a difference between the water temperature and the soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and misting, which can be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of the potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water, to meet the needs of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a simple sand pool can be built with bricks, filled with 10 cm of wet sand, and then some potted flowers that prefer moisture can be placed on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, Syngonium 'Pixie', camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Syngonium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, bromeliads, red (green) gem, and Chloranthus spicatus, etc., and usually misting can replace watering, which is very beneficial for them to pass the summer safely. For Cymbidium, Cymbidium hookerianum, Oncidium, Cattleya, fuchsia, Dendrobium, Anthurium crystallinum, and Alocasia, etc., they can be moved to an air-conditioned room, with misting replacing watering, ensuring that they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively heat-tolerant, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, boxleaf euonymus, trident maple, black pine, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', wisteria, Fukien tea, Adina rubella, agave, and sago palm, etc., they can be watered 1 to 2 times a day and misted 1 to 2 times.
2. Fertilization. In August, fertilization should be stopped for balcony potted plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state. For vigorously growing foliage plants, 0.3% urea solution can be sprayed or applied by watering, or multi-element compound fertilizer granules can be scattered on the pot surface. For flowers and trees grown mainly for flowers and fruit, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, and kumquat, etc., quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should continue to be applied. For Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, holly, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Fukien tea, trident maple, Adina rubella, and boxleaf euonymus, etc., after each pruning, a thin fertilizer can be applied once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony that receive full sunlight, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai, such as five-needle pine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Fukien tea, plum blossom, and trident maple, etc., soft grass, moss, or wet cloth can be spread over the pot surface, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature, and also protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, shade nets can be used to block light. If there are not many and relatively precious potted flowers and trees on the balcony, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most of the tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Serissa japonica, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma racemosum, small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fukien tea, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Chinese privet, boxleaf euonymus, and firethorn, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For spent flowers, withered stalks, dead branches, and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution should be sprayed promptly to kill them. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowers and trees, they can be removed by sticking transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution is suitable for spraying and killing.

Flower Planting Handbook (September Chapter)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display
In September, temperatures in most parts of China gradually decline, with the monthly average temperature between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are relatively many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among the woody ornamental plants are: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian cycad, Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus pandurata, hibiscus, cotton rose, Dutch iron, croton, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Schefflera actinophylla, Rhapis excelsa, plumeria, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm, Chinese rose, Caryota, Areca palm, Queen palm, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, red maple, South American cycad, spruce species, Schefflera, Garcinia (Clusiaceae), Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch (Grevillea robusta), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, orange jasmine, Cordyline, and nandina, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Canna generalis, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, begonia 'Coccinea', marigold, ornamental pepper, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, and dragon's mouth flower, etc.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, banana shrub species, magnolia species, manglietia species, buckeye species, summer sweet shrub, and Canary Island date palm, etc. Among them, buckeye seeds can be sown in furrows, with the hilum facing down when sowing; the covering soil should not be too deep, with 2 to 2.5 cm being suitable, and plastic film or straw should be added to retain moisture. Summer sweet shrub seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing in the ground, and seedlings will emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Of the above seeds, except that summer sweet shrub can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, all the other species must be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, dianthus, Silene armeria, Silene pendula, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, and verbena, etc. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, Trollius, cineraria, wax begonia, Gerbera, and Calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttage. Using half sand and half rice chaff ash as the cutting medium, flower and tree species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cutting in the courtyard include: firethorn, Mahonia, banana shrub, bougainvillea, Weigela florida, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', fuchsia, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, Weigela florida, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia, rubber tree, Schefflera, and Cordyline fruticosa, etc. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cutting include: boxwood species, purple magnolia, Hypericum, Spiraea, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, Spiraea thunbergii, hydrangea, French holly, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, Serissa japonica, gardenia, Fatsia japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, and tree peony, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be cut, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, and cold chrysanthemum, etc.
3. Grafting. The following flower and tree grafting propagation can be carried out: use peony root sections as rootstock and graft superior varieties of tree peony; use wild peach, apricot, etc. seedlings as rootstocks and bud-graft Prunus triloba, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, and plum blossom, etc.; use green maple seedlings as rootstock and bag-covered moisture-retaining cleft-graft red maple and laceleaf maple, etc.; use Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata and Magnolia soulangeana; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock and cleft-graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft kumquat, etc.; use Chinese fringetree as rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Weigela florida, hydrangea, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, Forsythia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, jasmine, banana shrub, camellia, Chloranthus spicatus, French holly, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, and Spiraea, etc.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, peony, tree peony, Aglaonema, purple triangular wood sorrel, Rudbeckia, sansevieria, Syngonium 'Pixie', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Aglaonema commutatum, sword fern, nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia, Liriope, Aspidistra, and big-leaf mondo grass, etc. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, Lycoris, and Mediterranean bluebell can also have their daughter bulbs divided and planted at this time for cultivating large flowering bulbs.
Management of Ground-planted Flowers in the Courtyard
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there are special circumstances, flower and tree transplanting is generally not carried out in the courtyard. If for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out on the premise of a good soil ball. Species such as: oleander, Sabina chinensis, banana shrub, Sabina chinensis, osmanthus, camellia, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, boxwood species, Hypericum, French holly, red-flowered Loropetalum, and Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', etc. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and watering, misting, and shading management must be strengthened to ensure that transplanting is foolproof. Some herbaceous flowers can still be established or potted for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, Tagetes patula, dragon's mouth flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, small dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, and early chrysanthemum, etc.
2. Pruning. Continue to prune the courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants that grow vigorously and have strong sprouting ability. This is also the last pruning of ball-shaped plants in the growing season this year in northern regions. The main courtyard hedge and color-block tree species suitable for pruning are: boxwood species, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, glossy privet, Chinese privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, and golden-edged Platycladus orientalis, etc. Ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning are: Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, boxwood, bayberry, Ilex cornuta, holly, Photinia, Pittosporum tobira, firethorn, and Forsythia, etc. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be tip-pruned and pinched include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, Kochia scoparia, marigold, and Tagetes patula, etc. Pinching once every 10 days is suitable, to promote the formation of a full plant shape and the development of more inflorescences on lateral shoots. Stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that bloom continuously over a long period, such as variety Chinese rose, floribunda rose, miniature rose, climbing Chinese rose, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Lantana camara, and bougainvillea, etc., spent flowers and withered stalks should be cut off in time, and the branches that have already flowered should be cut back appropriately, which can effectively promote them to bloom again.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year, continuing to do a good job of watering and misting management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival effect. First, water the roots and keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw rope wrapped around the trunk, creating a locally moist protective layer for the trunk; third, mist the crown, reducing leaf transpiration and increasing the humidity of the local space. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to retain moisture.
4. Fertilization. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, red maple, red-flowered Loropetalum, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', croton, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', red mulberry, red-leaf dwarf cherry, red-leaf plum, and red-leaf peach, etc., in order to keep their leaf color bright and fresh at all times, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied appropriately. For ground-planted flowers and trees that bloom continuously or are grown in autumn for flowers and fruit, such as crape myrtle, Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixiang', calamondin, flowering pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, Lantana camara, nandina, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, and kumquat, etc., as well as a large number of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, and golden osmanthus, etc., which are currently blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth that harms flower and trees such as crape myrtle, firethorn, and begonia, 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution can be sprayed for control; for the star longhorn beetle that harms crape myrtle, papaya, and begonia, poison sticks can be inserted at the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew, etc. appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution can be used for control in the early stage of the disease.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants from which seeds can be collected are mainly flower and trees of the Magnoliaceae family. Such as Magnolia sieboldii, banana shrub, purple magnolia, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia wilsonii, Michelia chapensis, Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, and southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), etc. In addition, there are buckeye species, crape myrtle, lilac, begonia species, redbud, Exochorda racemosa, yew, and wintersweet, etc. Magnoliaceae, as well as yew, buckeye, and begonia species, etc., after the seeds are treated, must be stored in wet sand until early spring of the following year, and sown in the ground after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, garden balsam, four o'clock flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, and China aster, etc. After collection, thresh them in time and dry-store until the following spring for sowing.
Management of Potted Flowers in the Courtyard
1. Watering. In September, the light is relatively strong, the temperature is relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers must not be neglected. As for watering frequency: for general moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month, water or mist once each in the morning and afternoon, and in the second half of the month, change to watering once, with appropriate leaf misting. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by leaf misting. Water before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidic conditions, a small amount of 0.1% light-green ferrous sulfate powder can be added to the irrigation water. For flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer and resume growth after autumn, the amount and frequency of watering (or misting) can be gradually increased. While watering potted plants, loosen the soil once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is a period of vigorous growth for most flowers and plants. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as temperatures gradually cool, so great attention should be paid to fertilizing management this month. For foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Pachira macrocarpa, Dracaena fragrans, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, Fagraea fragrans, Cinnamomum species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (Dragon-Philodendron), Araucaria heterophylla, Caryota mitis, Epipremnum aureum, red (green) gem, green emperor, silver queen, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, Ficus lyrata, etc., mainly continue to apply low-concentration dilute fertilizer solution, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flower species with an exceptionally long flowering period or those whose peak bloom is in autumn, such as Rosa chinensis, Lantana camara, Lantana montevidensis, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans, etc., fruit-ornamental plants such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Diospyros armata, Callicarpa species, ornamental pomegranate, etc., and colorful-leaved plants such as Codiaeum variegatum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Bromeliaceae species, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Cordyline fruticosa, Coleus scutellarioides, etc., should be top-dressed with fertilizers balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. For plants resuming growth such as Fuchsia hybrida, Pelargonium hortorum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Begonia semperflorens, Daphne odora, Schlumbergera truncata, Sedum species, Portulacaria afra (jade leaf), Oxalis triangularis, Clivia miniata, Epiphyllum hybridum, etc., low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be resumed; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the flower bud enlargement stage, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Michelia figo, Rhododendron species, etc., low-concentration nutrient-balanced fertilizers can be top-dressed; for potted herbaceous flowers such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Chrysanthemum morifolium, Callistephus chinensis, Dahlia pinnata, dwarf sunflower, etc., a thin fertilizer can be top-dressed every 10 days to meet their needs for bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, temperatures are still high and sunlight is still intense, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers cannot be relaxed. For shade-loving foliage plant species such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Nephrolepis exaltata 'Bostoniensis', Asplenium nidus, Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, Epipremnum aureum, Rhapis excelsa, green emperor, silver queen, orchids, Dieffenbachia seguine, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Aspidistra elatior, Begonia species, Epipremnum pinnatum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', red (green) gem, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Odontonema strictum, Asparagus setaceus, Schefflera octophylla, Pteris multifida 'Variegata', Peperomia argyreia, Dieffenbachia picta, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Anthurium andraeanum, Platycerium bifurcatum, Pilea peperomioides, Adina pilulifera, king palm, Dracaena sanderiana, etc., through shading, give 5 to 6 hours of light per day; for light-loving species such as Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Ginkgo biloba, Adina rubella, Pinus thunbergii, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Juniperus chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Araucaria heterophylla, Wisteria sinensis, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Pyracantha fortuneana, Rosa chinensis, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', etc., full sunlight can be given; for semi-shade-loving species such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pinus parviflora, Damnacanthus indicus, Syzygium buxifolium, Loropetalum chinense, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Nandina domestica, Crassula ovata, Rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Fortunella margarita, etc., appropriate shading can be given around noon. For newly transplanted autumn herbaceous flowers in pots, appropriate shading should also be given to prevent wilting and affect their recovery growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue to do the work of bud removal and disbudding; for Rosa chinensis, ornamental pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Lantana camara, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, etc., pruning should be carried out after each flowering; for tree-stump bonsai species that are tolerant of pruning, easy to sprout and vigorous in growth, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Syzygium buxifolium, Ligustrum sinense, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', Tamarix chinensis, etc., continue to prune or pinch buds. In addition, Pachira macrocarpa seedlings can be braided into "braids" and potted up.
5. Pest and disease control. For Aromia bungii appearing on potted Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis, Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Prunus persica 'Bitao', etc., poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, or carbofuran granules can be buried for control. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, felt scale, etc. appearing on potted flowers and trees, use 40% Supracide 1500 times solution for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have been placed on the balcony for a long time or potted flowers and trees with strong resistance can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song', Pinus densiflora, Pinus parviflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Acer buergerianum, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, ornamental pomegranate, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Juniperus chinensis, Carmona retusa, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', Ficus microcarpa, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Rosa chinensis, Agave americana, Ginkgo biloba, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Celtis sinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Hemiptelea davidii, Serissa japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Oncidium species, Dendrobium species, Cattleya species, Vanda species, spider orchid, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Clivia miniata, Fuchsia hybrida, Fittonia verschaffeltii, etc.; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira macrocarpa, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Ficus species, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera octophylla, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony, large-diameter flower pots can continue to be used as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of rice chaff ash and wet sand at 1/2 each, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and some ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Cordyline fruticosa, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera octophylla, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Michelia figo, Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen', etc. It is also possible to water-propagate indoors Schefflera octophylla, Rosa chinensis, Gardenia jasminoides, Ficus carica, Aglaonema modestum, etc.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer moisture, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium species, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Chloranthus spicatus, Bromeliaceae species, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats set over a balcony water pool or water tank, or placed in a simple self-built sand pool, and normally sprayed with water instead of watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, more spraying and less watering should also be done to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, water should be sprayed at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even the relatively drought-tolerant Pinus parviflora bonsai will dehydrate and die if not watered or sprayed for 5 to 7 days. For potted ornamental plants with strong resistance placed on the balcony, continue to water once a day and spray 1 to 2 times a day, or use the immersion method to prevent the phenomenon of wet top and dry bottom in the potting soil. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, pay attention that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, low-concentration liquid fertilizer should also be appropriately applied; for vigorously growing potted bonsai, a thin liquid fertilizer can be applied after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowers and trees mainly for viewing flowers and fruits, such as Michelia alba, Rosa chinensis, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Pyracantha fortuneana, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, etc., continue to top-dress with quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizers; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Osmanthus fragrans, Chrysanthemum morifolium, etc., an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium balanced multi-element compound fertilizer can be applied according to the different types. The types of fertilizers top-dressed for flowers and trees on the balcony should not have an unusual smell, especially no foul odor, and when applying, be careful not to splash downstairs, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when the number of potted flowers is small, they can be moved indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull up shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Ligustrum sinense, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowers and trees, dead branches, yellow leaves, and faded flowers and stems should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperature and dry air, and potted flowers and trees are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be killed by spraying with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder 1500 times solution; for Semanotus bifasciatus appearing on Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus rigida bonsai, and Aromia bungii appearing on Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis, Chaenomeles sinensis, Prunus persica 'Shoutao', etc., continue to insert poison sticks or bury carbofuran for control; for various scale insects harming Camellia japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lagerstroemia indica, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., when the number is small, they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide 1500 times solution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October Chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month there are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which woody ornamental plant species include: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus parviflora, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Picea species, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Cycas revoluta, Phoenix canariensis, Yucca elephantipes, Fagraea fragrans, Cinnamomum kotoense, Osmanthus fragrans, Hibiscus mutabilis, Ficus elastica, Schefflera octophylla, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pseudolarix amabilis, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira macrocarpa, Rhapis excelsa, Beaucarnea recurvata, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ficus microcarpa var. crassifolia, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, Adenium obesum, Cycas revoluta (South American cycad), Garcinia subelliptica, Bambusa ventricosa, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Grevillea robusta, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Ficus species, Murraya paniculata, Nandina domestica, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Salvia splendens, Canna generalis, Dahlia pinnata, Callistephus chinensis, Chrysanthemum morifolium, small chrysanthemum, Begonia maculata, Antirrhinum majus, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Capsicum annuum, Celosia cristata, Calendula officinalis, Catharanthus roseus, Gomphrena globosa, Petunia hybrida, Impatiens hawkeri, etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flowers planted in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: Paeonia suffruticosa, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, Aesculus species, Sinocalycanthus chinensis, Ardisia crenata, Sapindus mukorossi, Ilex kudingcha, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Viburnum tinus, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Phoenix roebelenii, Taxus chinensis, Livistona chinensis, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Cinnamomum camphora, Weigela florida, Trachycarpus fortunei, Taxodium distichum, etc. Among them, when sowing Aesculus species, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing Sinocalycanthus chinensis, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except for Sinocalycanthus chinensis and Weigela florida seeds, which can be dry-stored until spring sowing, the above seeds can all be cleaned, stored in wet sand to promote germination until the seeds crack and show white in the following spring before sowing. Note that before storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean; the moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released; the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During the storage and germination promotion process, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Papaver rhoeas, Calendula officinalis, Antirrhinum majus, Dianthus species, Viola tricolor, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Belamcanda chinensis, Silene armeria, Silene vulgaris, Eschscholzia californica, Bellis perennis, Rudbeckia hirta, Iris species, Verbena hybrida, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, Petunia hybrida, Pericallis hybrida, Primula obconica, Gerbera jamesonii, Calceolaria herbeohybrida can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Schefflera octophylla, Telosma cordata, Lantana camara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Mahonia species, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia figo, Aucuba japonica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Gardenia jasminoides, Weigela florida, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hypericum monogynum, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Rosa chinensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Nerium oleander, Ficus carica, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice chaff ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for some southern flowers and trees propagated by cuttings, when Frost's Descent (the 18th solar term) arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection work. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia maculata, Tradescantia zebrina, Epipremnum aureum, Pilea cadierei, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Calliaspidia guttata, Sanchezia nobilis, Chrysanthemum species, etc. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Using 1- to 2-year-old Pinus thunbergii seedlings as rootstock, graft Pinus parviflora (including Pinus parviflora 'Osaka-matsu') and Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song' with bagging for moisture retention; using peony roots as rootstock, graft excellent varieties of Paeonia suffruticosa; using 1-year-old Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum 'Dissectum' with bagging for moisture retention; using 1-year-old Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft excellent varieties of Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana, Magnolia liliflora, etc.; using Hylocereus undatus as rootstock, graft various cactus ball types; using 1-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft Fortunella margarita.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering include: Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Weigela florida 'Bristol Ruby', Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'Bayuegui', Viburnum plicatum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Magnolia liliflora, Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum monogynum, Viburnum tinus, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Michelia figo, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, etc.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: Nandina domestica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia fortunei, Paeonia suffruticosa, Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora', Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea species, Cycas revoluta, etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Paeonia lactiflora, Hosta plantaginea, Cymbidium goeringii, Hosta ventricosa, Strelitzia reginae, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Ranunculus asiaticus, Rudbeckia laciniata, Iris species, Belamcanda chinensis, Convallaria majalis, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen', Oxalis triangularis, Philodendron 'Multi-Head Green Emperor', Nephrolepis cordifolia, Aspidistra elatior, etc. Flower species that can be propagated by bulb division include: Zantedeschia aethiopica, Hippeastrum rutilum, Freesia refracta, Lycoris radiata, Tulipa gesneriana, Scilla peruviana, etc.

Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after Frost's Descent arrives and leaves fall, such as Hibiscus syriacus, Cercis chinensis, Amygdalus triloba, Punica granatum, Syringa oblata, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Magnolia liliflora, Prunus persica 'Bitao', Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Rosa hybrida, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, Nandina domestica, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Gardenia jasminoides, Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, etc., when transplanting, first, pruning should be done before transplanting; second, a good soil ball should be taken; third, watering and spraying management should be strengthened after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted include: Dianthus chinensis, Bellis perennis, Alcea rosea, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, Viola tricolor, Calendula officinalis, Verbena hybrida, Phlox drummondii, Antirrhinum majus, Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Reineckea carnea, etc. Bulbous flower species that can be ground-planted include: Narcissus tazetta, Narcissus poeticus, Tulipa gesneriana, Hyacinthus orientalis, etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea', Euonymus japonicus 'Aureus', Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Viburnum tinus, Ligustrum lucidum, Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum sinense, etc. Ball-shaped plants that need pruning include: Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Buxus sinica, Myrica rubra, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Photinia serratifolia, Pittosporum tobira, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc. For ground-planted flowers and trees in the courtyard that bloom continuously, such as Rosa chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Lantana camara, Bougainvillea spectabilis, etc., continue to cut off faded flowers and stems, and moderately reduce-prune the branches that have flowered. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Gomphrena globosa, etc., promptly cut off the opened inflorescences to promote continued flower formation and blooming on lateral shoots, thereby extending the ornamental period.

    3. Watering. For newly planted courtyard flowers and trees of the year, continue to do a good job of watering and spraying, first, keep the root soil moist but not waterlogged; second, continue to spray water on the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of spraying water to retain moisture.

    4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, it is appropriate to top-dress with quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium; for Osmanthus species that have already flowered, ring-shaped trenches can be opened to bury base fertilizer; for Rosa chinensis, Malus spectabilis, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus mutabilis and Camellia japonica, Michelia figo, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, etc. that have been pruned, an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer can be buried; for Nandina domestica and Pyracantha fortuneana in the fruit-viewing state, as well as Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Diospyros armata in the south, an appropriate amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied to effectively extend the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted Prunus mume, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus serrulata, Malus spectabilis, etc., continue to use poison sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, collect them and burn them. In the north, for thick tree trunks in the courtyard, whitewashing can be carried out at the end of the month, or lime-sulfur mixture can be applied directly to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species from which seeds can be collected include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus species, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia denudata, Manglietia species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia amoena, Michelia champaca, Michelia figo 'Jinye', Michelia maudiae, Manglietia insignis, Michelia platypetala, Taxodium distichum, Rhapis excelsa, Ardisia crenata, Phoenix roebelenii, Livistona chinensis, Ilex kudingcha, Viburnum tinus, Cinnamomum camphora, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Viburnum macrocephalum, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Taxus chinensis, Camellia oleifera, etc.; these seeds must all be stored in wet sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored include: Lagerstroemia indica, Liriodendron chinense, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum, Pseudolarix amabilis, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Cryptomeria japonica, Sapium sebiferum, Albizia julibrissin, Koelreuteria paniculata, Hibiscus mutabilis, Choerospondias axillaris, Cercis chinensis, Camptotheca acuminata, Bischofia polycarpa, Acer truncatum, etc. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: Salvia splendens, Celosia cristata, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, Callistephus chinensis, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Callistephus chinensis, Impatiens balsamina, Mirabilis jalapa, Kochia scoparia, Helichrysum bracteatum, Cosmos bipinnatus, Cerastium tomentosum, Euphorbia heterophylla, Mimosa pudica, Desmodium gyrans, etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for Canna generalis, Dahlia pinnata, etc., when their above-ground parts are close to withering, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keeping the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and then cut and replant them in the following spring.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants such as Ficus elastica, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, Epipremnum aureum, Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea fragrans, Cinnamomum kotoense, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, etc., on sunny days it is suitable to water once a day, supplemented by spraying water on the leaves; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species such as Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Clivia miniata, Portulacaria afra, Daphne odora, Pelargonium hortorum, Fuchsia hybrida, etc., the amount of watering needs to be increased. For Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, etc. that bloom in winter and early spring, watering should be controlled and more spraying should be done to facilitate the enlargement of their flower buds. In northern regions, for flower species that are relatively sensitive to cold, watering should be reduced, which can accelerate the lignification of their new shoots and help them survive the winter safely. The best watering time is at 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn cooling, promptly top-dress with low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pericallis hybrida, Primula species, Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Cymbidium sinense, Rhododendron hybridum, Narcissus poeticus, etc. that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to top-dress with a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately top-dress with some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', lemon, Fortunella margarita, Nandina domestica, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Ardisia crenata, Diospyros armata, etc., a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be top-dressed in early to mid-October.

    3. Shading. For some foliage plant species that are very shade-loving, such as Dieffenbachia seguine, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron 'Green Emerald', Nephrolepis exaltata 'Bostoniensis', Peperomia species, etc., shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, their dead branches and leaves, pest-damaged branches, weak branches, etc. should be cut off first; for leggy branches, strong reduction pruning should be carried out; for binding materials that have been shaped for 1 to 2 years, they can be untied, or retied after untiing, to prevent long-term binding at fixed positions from damaging the cambium of the branches and causing dead branches and leaves.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species not tolerant of temperatures below 10°C can be moved into greenhouses in time; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or tree-stump bonsai, they can be buried in wind-sheltered, sunny soil at the end of the month to prevent the potting soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River Basin region, weather change information should be accurately grasped to avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowers and trees, collect them uniformly and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control aphids, chrysanthemum longhorn beetles, leaf miner larvae, inchworms and other pests.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    In early to mid-October on the balcony, there is still strong light and dry air. Only those potted flowers and trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song', Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', Carmona retusa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Buxus sinica, Punica granatum, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Ficus microcarpa var. crassifolia, Ginkgo biloba, Rosa chinensis, Jasminum sambac, Aglaia odorata, Cycas revoluta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, Tamarix chinensis, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc. Some cold-sensitive southern flower and tree species can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony when the temperature drops to 10°C. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary rooms at the beginning of the month, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Cattleya species, Phalaenopsis species, Oncidium species, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and can be placed on the balcony at other times, such as Rhapis excelsa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira macrocarpa, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Ficus species, Schefflera octophylla, etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowers and trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, on the balcony, wide-mouthed large flower pots can continue to be used as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of rice chaff ash and wet sand at 1/2 each, or vermiculite alone can be used as the cutting substrate, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and a small number of ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Schefflera octophylla, Ficus elastica, Aucuba japonica, Michelia figo, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Aglaonema modestum, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Calliaspidia guttata, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen', Epipremnum aureum, Pelargonium hortorum, etc.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as Cycas revoluta, Ficus microcarpa, Ficus elastica, Schefflera octophylla, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira macrocarpa, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, etc., water once a day, supplemented by spraying water on the leaves; for species that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron hybridum, etc., watering should not be too much, and at the same time spray water on the branches and leaves, which can effectively promote the enlargement of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Aspidistra elatior, Cordyline fruticosa, Asplenium nidus, Anthurium andraeanum, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea species, Epipremnum aureum, etc., spraying should be the main method and watering the supplement, so as to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, as well as Cymbidium hybridum, Bromeliaceae species, Cymbidium sinense, etc., a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea can be applied; for fruit-viewing plants such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Fortunella margarita, Fortunella hindsii, lemon, Nandina domestica, Diospyros armata, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc., continue to apply a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, etc., 1 to 2 times of thin phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be top-dressed in early October to help them pass the winter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from compacting, continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc., especially shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, which should be paid more attention to. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on sunny days they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon. The shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Ligustrum lucidum, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been bound for more than a year, they can be untied first, and if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, a new binding position can be changed for re-wiring and fixing, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plant. For ordinary potted flowers and trees, such as Rosa chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, the dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree-stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the trunk, which can both protect the trunk xylem and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Manual (November Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Beginning of Winter, the start of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Light Snow, when the Yellow River Basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, and the Yangtze River Basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should pay attention to two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing trunks and removing insects, turning the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively doing cold protection and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic tunnels. This month's flower management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, Begonia tuberhybrida, Cyclamen persicum, Gerbera jamesonii, Clivia miniata, Asparagus setaceus, Hosta plantaginea, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be sown as collected in November include: Spiraea cantoniensis, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Cinnamomum camphora, Juniperus virginiana, Nageia nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sapindus mukorossi, Ardisia crenata (Ardisia crenata), Trachycarpus fortunei, Viburnum tinus, Photinia serratifolia, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be carried out, but plastic film mulching must be added. The main flower and tree species for heat preservation and cold protection are: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume (referring to varieties such as green calyx and palace pink), Rosa chinensis (referring to easy-to-root varieties such as Rosa hybrida and Elizabeth), Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Campsis grandiflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Serissa japonica, etc. Some of these root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flower and tree species that can be densely planted and propagated by cuttings in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in November include: Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Euonymus japonicus, Euonymus japonicus 'Variegatus', Pilea cadierei, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum kouytchense, Mahonia species, Serissa japonica 'Aurea', etc. If managed properly, complete root systems can grow by the following spring, and they can be used for ground planting to cultivate ball-shaped landscaping forms. In winter, in greenhouses, cuttings can also be propagated for Begonia maculata, Begonia species, Begonia nelumbiifolia, Pelargonium hortorum, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia hybrida, Crassula ovata, Portulacaria afra, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Pachystachys lutea, Calliaspidia guttata, etc., which can be used for potting and cultivation after spring begins.

    In November, in the Yangtze River Basin, cuttings of Hibiscus mutabilis, Campsis grandiflora, grape, etc. can also be cut and stored until spring for cutting, which can significantly accelerate their rooting speed and increase the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Using Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' and Acer palmatum 'Dissectum' indoors with bagging; using apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cleft-graft Prunus mume (the graft union is buried in soil to overwinter); using thick branches of Rosa chinensis (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock scions, and branches of excellent Rosa chinensis varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttage, so that the union heals and the lower cut roots at the same time, which can accelerate the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of excellent Rosa chinensis varieties.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering in November mainly include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Gardenia jasminoides, Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans', Punica granatum, Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Weigela florida, Osmanthus fragrans, Hydrangea macrophylla, Magnolia liliflora, Juniperus squamata, Michelia figo, Spiraea cantoniensis, Viburnum plicatum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Triarrhena sacchariflora, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum kouytchense, Mahonia species, Buddleja lindleyana, Paeonia suffruticosa, Caragana sinica, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum officinale, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bambusa multiplex, Bambusa species, etc.

South of the Yangtze River Basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of Dahlia pinnata, Canna generalis, Canna generalis can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the following spring, and then cut, divided and planted.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Bletilla striata, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Belamcanda chinensis, Iris species, ornamental Bromeliaceae, Liriope muscari, Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, Rohdea japonica, Aspidistra elatior, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Callistephus chinensis, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Abelmoschus manihot, etc.

    Flower and tree species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus taiwanensis, Pinus parviflora, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Plumosa', Chamaecyparis obtusa, Albizia julibrissin, Liquidambar formosana, Camptotheca acuminata, Eucommia ulmoides, Cornus alba, Sapium sebiferum, Wisteria sinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Caragana sinica, Spiraea cantoniensis. Flower and tree species that can be sown as collected or must be stored in wet sand include: Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Trachycarpus fortunei, Cinnamomum camphora, Juniperus virginiana, Sapindus mukorossi, Lycium chinense, Taxus chinensis, Magnolia grandiflora, Ilex chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Photinia serratifolia, Photinia davidsoniae, Rosa chinensis (used for cultivating rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and planting. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be planted in flower beds and transplanted for flower border arrangements in November include: Silene armeria, Dianthus chinensis, Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Viola tricolor var. hortensis, Antirrhinum majus, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, etc.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: Cinnamomum camphora, Magnolia grandiflora, Albizia julibrissin, Sapindus mukorossi, Ligustrum lucidum, Koelreuteria paniculata, Sapium sebiferum, Magnolia denudata, Osmanthus fragrans, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Aesculus species, Tilia species, Cercis gigantea, Liriodendron chinense, Magnolia soulangeana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Malus spectabilis, etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately reduced or shortened, and most leaves removed, the trunk bound with straw rope, and a large soil ball taken (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), so as to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be shortened and large branches pruned, with a good soil ball taken and the trunk bound. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk spraying management must be strengthened to ensure survival. In addition, the cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent a large amount of water from evaporating from the tree body.

    In November, Prunus mume stumps, Chimonanthus praecox, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. can be transplanted and potted, and placed in plastic tunnels to force flowering, so as to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted Hyacinthus orientalis, Tulipa gesneriana, Narcissus poeticus, etc. should be moved into plastic tunnels to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels or rooms, the specific standard for watering in November is to keep the potting soil moist, not too wet; if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, the amount of watering should be appropriately increased, and necessary leaf spraying should be given.

For those potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron species, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pericallis hybrida, etc., as well as fruit-viewing plants Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, lemon, Pyracantha fortuneana, Nandina domestica, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Ardisia crenata, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed frequently to facilitate the enlargement and growth of flower buds and to make the fruits appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses and rooms, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be sprayed frequently to keep the leaf color green and glossy at all times. In relatively warm greenhouses and rooms, the amount of watering can be increased. For less cold-tolerant foliage plants such as Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, Dieffenbachia seguine, green emperor, Codiaeum variegatum, silver queen, etc., the amount of watering should be controlled to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    The watering time for potted flowers in November is preferably 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature is required to be basically consistent with the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants due to too low water temperature, which would then affect their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors at temperatures above 15°C, species such as Rhododendron hybridum, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pachystachys lutea, Calliaspidia guttata, Daphne odora, Pericallis hybrida, Cyclamen persicum, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hyacinthus orientalis, Clivia miniata, Tulipa gesneriana, ornamental Bromeliaceae, Schlumbergera truncata, Vriesea species, etc., continue to top-dress with low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; using 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, top-dressing should be stopped to help them enter normal dormancy and overwinter. For most ground-planted flowers and trees, such as Malus species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia species, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia figo, Michelia figo 'Jinye', Gardenia jasminoides, Aesculus species, Cinnamomum camphora, Spiraea species, Osmanthus fragrans, grape, Rosa chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Prunus serrulata, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Trachycarpus fortunei, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Paeonia suffruticosa, Forsythia viridissima, Paeonia lactiflora, Hypericum monogynum, etc., dry cake fertilizer can be buried, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant; smaller plants can use less, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls and ball-shaped forms that have not yet been pruned, and apply base fertilizer after pruning is completed.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned by cutting, carry out all-round shaping and pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', Pyracantha fortuneana, Serissa japonica, Juniperus chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chimonanthus praecox, Malus spectabilis, etc., to lay a good framework for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted Rosa chinensis that have not yet been pruned. For each plant, except for retaining 3 to 5 robust 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base and cut off all thin and weak branches; for unpruned ground-planted Lagerstroemia indica, carry out strong reduction pruning of the current year's branches, except for retaining a few thick branches at 20 cm to 30 cm from the base, cut off all the remaining current year's branches, so as to facilitate the production of more robust new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowers and trees in flower beds, along streets and in courtyards, such as Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus fragrans, Cinnamomum camphora, Platanus orientalis, Magnolia liliflora, Forsythia viridissima, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus serrulata, Camellia japonica, Albizia julibrissin, Pyracantha fortuneana, Pittosporum tobira, Malus spectabilis, etc., cut off all malformed branches, weak branches, inner-canopy branches, pest-damaged branches, etc., and appropriately reduce-prune the leggy branches protruding from the crown. In addition, in November, the coarse bark of large palm trees can be peeled, and the trunks cleaned, so that they show their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and tree species, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron species, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nandina domestica, Araucaria heterophylla, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Aglaonema species, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, lemon, Fortunella margarita, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera octophylla, Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Caryota mitis, Ficus elastica, Pachira macrocarpa, Phoenix canariensis, Rhapis excelsa, etc., they can be placed in plastic tunnels, as long as the room temperature is maintained at not lower than about 5°C.

For cold-sensitive potted flower species such as Calathea species, Dieffenbachia seguine, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Aglaia odorata, Codiaeum variegatum, Sanchezia nobilis, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', green emperor, silver queen, Plumeria rubra, Dracaena sanderiana, Phalaenopsis species, Cattleya species, Cymbidium species, etc., they should be placed indoors at a room temperature not lower than 10°C, or double-layer plastic tunnels can be used for winter protection.

For those relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowers and trees, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Malus species, Rhododendron simsii, Punica granatum, Ulmus parvifolia, Lagerstroemia indica, Buxus sinica, Sageretia thea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pinus parviflora, Juniperus squamata, Juniperus chinensis, Acer buergerianum, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc., they can be directly buried together with the flower pots in wind-sheltered, sunny soil. Under conditions not lower than -10°C, freezing damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather is encountered, film and soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in cold frames, greenhouses or indoors in November, besides ensuring a certain temperature, ventilation should also be done well. Doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent plants from being stuffy indoors for a long time, which causes flower drop, fruit drop and leaf drop; in addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not intrude indoors, otherwise it can easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop in plants. When ventilating, also note that plants must never be directly exposed to cold drafts.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees and shrubs prone to leaf diseases, such as grapes, crabapples, roses, Chinese roses, camellias, chrysanthemums and so on, collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases the following year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk style and split-trunk style stump bonsai, lime sulfur mixture can be applied to the dead and split trunk parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep rot in the xylem of the stump.

For whiteflies, scale insects and so on that appear on potted flowering trees placed in greenhouses or cold frames (they may occur on bitter orange, finger citron, sago palm, orchids, camellias, clivia and aspidistra), first wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second spray with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids that appear on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange and Chinese rose), spray tobacco water for control.

For Western azaleas placed in cold frames, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as Yemianbao, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    In November, the main types of bonsai plants suitable for styling are: Buddhist pine, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, tender cypress, prostrate juniper, Euonymus pendulus, serissa, plum, wintersweet, oak, Chinese holly, wintergreen, boxleaf euonymus, pearl euonymus, Chinese elm, Hall crabapple and so on.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and suspended with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when deeper constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November, and the trunk and branches can be re-tied and adjusted.

For new tree stumps such as Chinese elm, Japanese box, bougainvillea, water willow, firethorn and Elaeagnus, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting and branch cutting, plant them in sandy loam fields by the shallow-burying and high-mounding method, and carry out styling after they sprout branches the following year.

For tree stumps that have basically taken shape after 1 to 2 years of care and styling, in November, according to the styling characteristics of the trunk, roots and branches of the stump, suitable pots can be selected for repotting, and with fist stones added and moss dotted and spread, they can be displayed indoors around the Spring Festival.

For well-styled tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, Chinese juniper, Chaenomeles speciosa and so on, in November suitable pots can be selected for potting, and with strengthened water management, they can be used for display in squares, parks and auditoriums the following spring.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month most parts of China enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south in China, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, with frequent heavy frost. This month, flower and tree care should attach importance to three aspects of work: first, do a good job in heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees that have entered greenhouses, cold frames and homes; second, do a good job in pruning and cleaning of open-field flowers and trees and in turning and fertilizing the soil; third, do a good job in preparing for composting organic fertilizer and mixing culture soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. In December, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, African daisy and so on; flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as Elizabeth), nandina, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen species, firethorn, palm, privet, camphor tree, small-leaf privet, soapberry, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae and so on.

    2. Cuttage. In December, woody ornamental flowering trees and shrubs that can be cut outdoors include: plum (mainly varieties such as Gongfen and Green Calyx); Chinese rose (mainly easy-to-root varieties such as Elizabeth, floribunda rose and miniature rose); red-leaf plum, wintersweet (cut with heel), spiraea, boxwood species and so on. Among them, plum and red-leaf plum cuttings should preferably use yellow subsoil, Chinese rose cuttings should preferably use a mixed substrate of rice chaff ash and fine sand at 2:1, and other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film for heat and moisture preservation.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of hibiscus, geranium, Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, jade plant, Echeveria, purslane tree, Bryophyllum, kalanchoe, gold-bracted flower, shrimp plant, wax begonia, bamboo begonia, Rieger begonia, chloranthus, jasmine, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Lantana camara, Schefflera, daphne, pothos, Cordyline and so on. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be taken to propagate gardenia, golden-hearted (golden-edged) boxwood, mahonia, Hypericum, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Buddhist pine, Japanese arborvitae, serissa, firethorn, silver bud willow, Triarrhena and so on. In addition, branches of Chinese trumpet creeper, lilac, grape and so on can also be cut and stored in sand for cutting the following spring.

    3. Grafting. Excellent plum varieties, such as Guhong and Zhusha, can be cleft-grafted or cut-grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, peach and so on sown that year, after digging up the rootstock, then planted on seedbeds at a certain row spacing, with soil mounded above the graft union, even covering most of the scion, taking care that water does not seep into the union, covering with plastic film for heat and moisture preservation, and removing the covering film after the scion sprouts the following spring. Use dug-up wild rose plants to bud-graft excellent Chinese rose varieties; or use vigorous branch sections of the Elizabeth rose variety (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose scions on the upper end, and then insert the grafted Elizabeth scion sections into loose seedbeds. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil, taking care that water does not seep into the union, covering with plastic film for moisture and heat preservation, and removing the covering film after the scion sprouts the following spring; only after it has completely survived may a blade be used to cut open the binding tape at the union. In addition, red maple can also be side-grafted indoors with bags for moisture preservation.

    4. Layering. In December, flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering include: Buddhist pine, plum, camellia, osmanthus, Michelia figo, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia, snowball, weigela, gardenia, winter jasmine, Forsythia, hydrangea, spiraea, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate and so on.

    5. Division. In December, herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, pink reineckea, hosta, purple hosta, red-flowered oxalis, aspidistra, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, large-leaf dwarf lilyturf, Ophiopogon, Rohdea japonica, Bryophyllum, Aglaonema. When cutting off the offsets at the base of a large variegated bromeliad for division, it must be a small plant that has already grown on the mother plant for three or four months, otherwise the colored bands of the offsets cut off are likely to disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: nandina, Hypericum, mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Rhapis excelsa, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum, jasmine, chloranthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, sisal, bamboo palm, Pleioblastus fortunei and so on.

    1. Harvesting seeds. In December, the herbaceous flower seeds that can be harvested are generally those herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as Salvia splendens types, Gomphrena types, marigold, French marigold, cyclamen, clivia and so on. Clivia seeds should preferably be sown immediately after harvest.

    In December, the main woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be harvested include: Chinese rose, wisteria, privet, small-leaf privet, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen species, camphor tree and photinia species. After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination, and only after the seeds crack and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground; under dry storage they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising the following year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In December, herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds and flower borders include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, pot marigold, daisy and so on. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in cold frames, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, Dianthus, pansy and so on, and can be used for street display the following spring.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, wintersweet, plum, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, red maple, ornamental peach, Chinese scholartree, weeping pagoda tree and so on. For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, however, transplanting should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, osmanthus, palm, southern magnolia, camphor tree, azalea, wintergreen and so on. When transplanting, first strongly cut back the main shoot and large branches, and remove most leaves; at the same time, carry a large soil ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, seal the cuts on the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them with film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    In December, tree stumps and flowering trees and shrubs that can be potted include: plum, wintersweet stumps, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa and Hall crabapple. Place them in cold frames for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinths, tulips, pheasant's eye narcissus and so on should continue to be kept in frames for flower forcing, which can promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic cold frames with temperatures not lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering freeze damage, such as asparagus fern, asparagus cochinchinensis, aspidistra, Fatsia japonica, aucuba, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, Rhapis excelsa, nandina, Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, bamboo palm, Pleioblastus fortunei, sago palm and so on.

For ornamental plant species requiring overwintering temperatures not lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, rubber tree, jasmine, Michelia alba, chloranthus, pocket coconut, calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose, Lantana camara, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, geranium, hibiscus, Buddha belly bamboo and so on, they can overwinter in double-layer plastic cold frames. For species requiring overwintering temperatures not lower than 10°C, such as croton, Caladium bicolor, pepper grass, maranta, lucky bamboo, fish-tail palm, Brazil iron, money tree, Fittonia, bromeliads, pink taffeta leaf, poinsettia, large-flowered Cymbidium, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, gold-bracted flower, Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Dendrobium, South American cycad, red (green) gem, Oncidium, Cymbidium hookerianum and so on, in double-layer frames with good sealing performance, appropriate heating should also be provided; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the frames, and removed after the temperature turns warmer.

For relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum, crabapple species, rhododendron, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Japanese box, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, red cypress, water willow, Chinese holly, Fraxinus chinensis and so on, when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, they generally will not suffer freeze damage; in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether placed in cold frames, greenhouses or in homes, bonsai, potted flowers and foliage and fruit ornamental plants, besides maintaining a corresponding indoor temperature, should also be ventilated. Doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, also be sure not to let cold drafts blow directly on the plants, so as to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, cold frames and homes, keep the potting soil moist as the standard. If the temperature is on the low side and watering is excessive, it is extremely easy to cause root rot in plants. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give appropriate foliar spraying.

For those potted flower plant species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, plum, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, hyacinth, European narcissus and so on, and fruit ornamental types such as bitter orange, lemon, finger citron, calamondin, kumquat, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, nandina and so on, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying must also be given, to benefit flower bud enlargement and also increase the vividness of flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, both keep the potting soil moist and give foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink taffeta leaf, Syngonium, maranta, croton, Aglaonema and so on, when the room temperature is already close to the lower limit of the minimum temperature they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    In December, the watering time should preferably be the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water temperature being too low.

For newly transplanted flowering trees and shrubs outdoors, check frequently and give timely supplementary watering; for transplanted evergreen trees, give appropriate foliar spraying around noon to prevent leaves from drying, shrinking and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering trees and shrubs, foliage plants, bonsai and so on placed in ordinary cold frames, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most ground-planted greening trees and flowering trees and shrubs, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Manglietia, Michelia species, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, peony, tree peony, Forsythia, Hypericum, grape, Chinese rose, spiraea, tulip tree, mock orange, deutzia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, nandina, lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, banksia rose, Hypericum, weeping willow, Japanese cedar, deodar cedar, cypress species, Sophora japonica pendula, elm-leaved spirea, dwarf flowering almond, white silk plum, photinia, redbud, rose of Sharon and so on, while turning the garden soil in December, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer perimeter of the plant root zone, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, septic tank residue and so on, to lay a good material foundation for growth and flowering next year.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum, wintersweet, gold-bracted flower, shrimp plant, bromeliads, daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, freesia and so on, continue to apply 1.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, to promote flower bud formation and blooming in the plants.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls and ball-shaped topiary not yet pruned in November. Hedges and green walls include privet, small-leaf privet, Ligustrum lucidum, large-leaf boxwood, Sabina chinensis, four-season osmanthus, Photinia davidsoniae and so on; ball-shaped types include Chinese holly, bayberry, photinia, boxwood species, pittosporum, Forsythia, firethorn, dragon juniper, Chinese juniper and so on. While completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For ground-planted flowering trees and shrubs not yet pruned in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, palm, red-leaf plum, photinia, plane tree, plum, wintersweet and so on, carry out shaping and pruning, and after pruning is completed, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the roots.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned rather than wired, such as Chinese elm, Japanese box, Chinese holly, Fukien tea, trident maple, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, firethorn, serissa, Buddhist pine, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, crabapple, papaya and so on, continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for growth next year; for plants not repotted for many years, repotting can be carried out together with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees and shrubs whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapple species, rose, Chinese rose, camellia, crape myrtle and so on, collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases next year. At the same time, spray lime sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on primrose, the former should be controlled promptly with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For species in greenhouses and cold frames that are prone to scale insects, such as bitter orange, finger citron, sago palm, camellia, aspidistra and so on, first wipe them once with a rag, then control with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flowering tree and shrub species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, Chinese rose, Fukien tea and so on, tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-field cultivated flowering trees and shrubs such as pittosporum, osmanthus, plane tree, camellia, small-leaf privet, firethorn, oleander, crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, deodar cedar, photinia, crape myrtle, wintersweet and so on, various scale insects often appear, such as horned wax scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, felt scale and so on. At this time, spraying with relatively high concentrations of pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos and buprofezin rarely causes phytotoxicity.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of seedling raising and culture soil preparation next year, the idle winter time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake and so on into water vats or water pools, add water and seal for soaking, composting and fermentation.

Pile dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, branches and so on in alternating layers with garden soil, set fire and burn them to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix and compost stable manure, pond mud, chicken droppings and pigeon droppings and so on with garden soil, seal for fermentation, and it can be used for topdressing seedlings and preparing culture soil next year.

    7. Preparing culture soil. Using the idle winter time, find a piece of open ground or a spot under tree shade, and pile up as much culture soil as possible, to prepare for repotting and potting herbaceous flowers the following spring. Generally, it is 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder or rice chaff ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots and other debris, and after fully mixing evenly, cover with plastic film; it can also be piled indoors, and after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Plowing and freezing clods. For garden land to be used next year for sowing, cutting and planting out seedlings, plowing can be carried out in December; for garden land for sowing and planting out seedlings, cake fertilizer, stable manure, pond mud and so on can be applied before plowing; do not make beds for the time being, and after overwintering and freezing clods, make furrows and beds in early spring next year, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai styling in December include: Buddhist pine, Japanese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, Chinese cypress, tender cypress, Oriental arborvitae, creeping juniper, real juniper, black pine, five-needle pine, Japanese red pine, water willow, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Euonymus pendulus, ginkgo, serissa, Caragana, Chinese elm, Japanese box, trident maple, wintersweet, tamarisk, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple, papaya crabapple, boxleaf euonymus, pearl euonymus, wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan, Fukien tea, Fraxinus chinensis, oak and so on.

For bonsai plants fixed by coiling and styling with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixing time has already been one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be removed, and metal wire or palm rope should be used again for tying, suspending and pulling.

For ground-planted plum stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper, crape myrtle and so on that have already been styled, after some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so that they can be used for display in public places or homes next year.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and tree stump bonsai, careful management is a must: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and injuring the plant root system; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent plants planted on the rockery from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a non-freezing location and given regular watering and spraying, so that they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperature and coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, right around the "third nine-day period", and most parts of China enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north frequently moves south, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperature of the year appears. This month, the most important thing in flower care is to do a good job in heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai and so on in greenhouses, cold frames and homes; next is tree pruning, clearing dead branches and fallen leaves, and turning and preparing the soil, preparing culture soil and other auxiliary work.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. In January, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, African daisy and so on. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in open fields include: Chinese rose (Elizabeth), nandina, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen, firethorn, palm, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry, privet, wisteria, Chinese tallow tree, goldenrain tree and so on.

    2. Cuttage. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-field cutting or cutting with plastic film cover in January include: plum (varieties such as Green Calyx and Gongfen), red-leaf plum, Chinese rose (varieties such as Elizabeth, floribunda and miniature), cherry blossom, wintersweet (with heel), spiraea, boxwood species, pomegranate, silver bud willow, mahonia, Buddhist pine, serissa, Triarrhena, Hypericum, Forsythia, Spiraea thunbergii, winter jasmine, Jasminum and so on. Species that can be propagated by cutting in greenhouses include: jasmine, chloranthus, geranium, fuchsia, African violet (leaf cutting), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, carnation, umbrella plant, jade plant, jade leaf, jade tree, Echeveria, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, Pilea, mirror grass, shrimp plant, gold-bracted flower, Bryophyllum, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera, rubber tree, daphne, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Aglaonema, pothos, Cordyline and so on. In addition, branches of lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, Weigela, deutzia, hydrangea, plane tree, fig and so on can also be cut and stored in sand, and cut in March.

    3. Grafting. For excellent plum varieties, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach and wild peach can be used as rootstock for rootstock grafting propagation. After grafting, bury and plant them on seedbeds, cover with plastic film for moisture and cold protection. In Guangdong, often between Minor Cold and Major Cold, bud-graft to propagate calamondin, kumquat and so on; use dug-up wild rose to bud-graft excellent Chinese rose varieties, use the Elizabeth rose variety as rootstock and scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose varieties, with grafting and cutting carried out simultaneously, and cover with plastic film for moisture and cold protection.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia, camellia, plum, weigela, gardenia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Buddhist pine, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia, hydrangea, spiraea, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate, red maple and so on.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf dwarf lilyturf, silver-edged dwarf lilyturf, pink reineckea, autumn zephyr lily, Chinese chive lily, hosta, purple hosta, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, spider plant types, Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema, Bryophyllum, bromeliads, small torch lily, shell ginger, Monstera deliciosa, aloe and so on. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: nandina, Hypericum, mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Spiraea thunbergii, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum, jasmine, chloranthus, tiger thorn, gardenia, Triarrhena, boxwood, purple magnolia and so on.

    6. Harvesting seeds. In January, if mature asparagus fern and clivia seeds are present in the greenhouse, they can be sown immediately after harvest; mature winter coral seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of nandina, firethorn, wintergreen species, Ardisia crenata and so on can be picked, and after treatment, stored in sand for germination, and sowing can be carried out only after the seeds crack and show white.

    In January, seeds stored in sand should be checked frequently, including magnolia species, Michelia species, photinia species, wintergreen species and so on, to see whether the seeds have molded. If mold appears, the seeds must be poured out and rubbed and washed again, and replaced with clean fine sand for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, supplementary spraying should be given in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has already extended, sowing must be carried out immediately, and plastic film, rice straw, pine needles and so on should be added to preserve heat and moisture.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, in regions that are not too cold, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale, pot marigold, daisy and so on; in relatively cold regions, after potting sown seedlings of Dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy, primrose and so on, first place them in simple plastic cold frames, and after spring returns and the weather warms, use them for display in street flower beds, green spaces and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple species, wintersweet, plum, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow tree, red-flowered spiraea, Triarrhena, Chinese rose, Chinese scholartree, Sophora japonica pendula and so on. Evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree, Ligustrum lucidum and so on, this month, except in special cases, should generally be transplanted earlier in December or later in February; of course, in wind-sheltered locations, after transplanting with strong cutback, and with strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during forestry afforestation land preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm, Japanese box, trident maple, rhododendron, crape myrtle, Japanese maple, wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus, Euonymus pendulus and so on; for evergreen tree stumps, such as nandina, cat's thorn, Chinese holly, wintergreen, oak and so on, strong cutback must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous tree stumps or evergreen tree stumps, the shallow-burying and high-mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains should be added for freeze protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management work; a little negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the minimum temperature that various flower species can tolerate, create a special environment for them to overwinter safely, either in a greenhouse, in a cold frame, in a home, or buried and planted in open-field soil. In simple plastic cold frames with temperatures not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures of around 0°C can be placed, such as asparagus fern, asparagus cochinchinensis, aspidistra, Fatsia japonica, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, Rhapis excelsa, nandina, aucuba, Michelia figo, Cymbidium goeringii, Dendrobium, Ardisia crenata, daphne, sago palm, acorus, bamboo palm, Pleioblastus fortunei and so on. In double-layer plastic cold frames with temperatures not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures of around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine, chloranthus, Michelia alba, pocket coconut, bottle orchid, calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, camellia, sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, large Buddha belly bamboo, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, Lantana camara and so on. In double-layer plastic cold frames or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can tolerate low temperatures of around 10°C can be placed, such as croton, Caladium bicolor, Syngonium, maranta, bromeliads, pepper grass, coleus, lucky bamboo, fish-tail palm, Brazil iron, money tree, Fittonia, red (green) gem, giant taro, Philodendron imperial green, Aglaonema, Aglaia odorata, large-flowered Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, South American cycad, desert rose, pink taffeta leaf, poinsettia, gold-bracted flower, coral flower and so on. During particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the frames, and adding straw curtains can stop only after the temperature turns warmer. On very cold days, strengthen inspection of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; never let the fire go out or the electricity fail, otherwise it is very easy to cause freeze damage to the plants. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum, crabapple species, rhododendron, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Japanese box, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, summer cypress, Oriental arborvitae, small bayberry, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Fraxinus chinensis and so on, they can be buried in the soil together with the flower pots, and when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, freeze damage generally will not occur; in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in cold frames, greenhouses or homes, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, besides maintaining a corresponding air temperature, ventilation should also be done well. Doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold drafts blowing directly on the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and cold frames during each cold air movement southward. If broken glass, torn film and so on are found, plug and repair them in time, so as not to let potted flowers suffer freeze damage. When supplying coal, gas and oil heating to greenhouses, also check carefully, and do not let leaking gas or smoke enter the greenhouse or cold frame, so as to prevent flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop caused by smoke damage and so on.

To force tree peonies to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 hours of additional light each day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple, winter jasmine and so on can also be placed in cold frames at about 15°C for flower forcing, with appropriately increased lighting time, which can meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering trees and shrubs during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, pheasant's eye narcissus, freesia and so on already placed in greenhouses in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    In January, for watering management of potted flowers, first and most important is to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature. If the difference between the two is too great, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and even cause leaf drop, root rot or death of the plants. The watering time is best arranged in the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, cold frames and homes, keeping the potting soil moist is appropriate. When the temperature is on the low side, reduce watering accordingly; when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give foliar spraying. For the vast majority of foliage plants, both keep the potting soil moist and pay attention to giving foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean. For less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink taffeta leaf, Syngonium, maranta, croton and so on, when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the minimum temperature the plant can tolerate, especially control the amount of watering. For those potted flower types that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, poinsettia, cineraria, wintersweet, plum, primrose, hyacinth, kalanchoe, pot marigold and so on, and fruit ornamental types such as firethorn, bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, kumquat bean, winter coral and so on, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water, to benefit flower bud enlargement and also increase the vivid color of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in out-of-the-way spots from lacking water, and timely supplementary watering should be given to plants whose potting soil has dried, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and give timely supplementary watering, especially for those evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting; around noon, appropriate foliar spraying should also be given, to prevent leaves from wrinkling and falling off due to excessively dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most ground-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapple species, white magnolia, southern magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia, Michelia species, maple species, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, linden, crape myrtle, Chinese trumpet creeper, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum, Buddhist pine, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, Schima superba, Machilus, Nyssa, camptotheca, peony, Forsythia, boxwood, grape, coral tree, Chinese rose, hydrangea, red-leaf plum, dwarf flowering almond, elm-leaved spirea, tulip tree, deutzia, mock orange, banksia rose, Elaeocarpus, golden willow, weeping elm, Japanese cedar, Taiwan fir, deodar cedar, Chinese scholartree, Sophora japonica pendula, white silk plum, rose of Sharon, lilac, crape myrtle, photinia, nandina, purple bamboo, pomegranate, loquat and so on, if the fertilization task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, stable manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings and so on around the outer perimeter of the tree root zone, to lay a good material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, gold-bracted flower, daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, pheasant's eye narcissus, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, tulip, multicolored bromeliad, clivia, bird of paradise, Christmas cactus and so on, continue to apply low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, to benefit plant growth and flower bud formation and blooming.

For most potted flowering trees and shrubs, foliage plants, bonsai and so on placed in cold frames, because the plants are dormant in winter, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

Continue pruning hedges, green walls and ball-shaped types not yet pruned in December; continue pruning flowering shrubs not yet pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, banksia rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor tree, plane tree, Chinese tallow tree, photinia, pomegranate, red-leaf plum, papaya, wintersweet, plum, palm, grape and so on; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer perimeter of their root zone, to meet the needs of spring growth.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned and supplemented by wiring, such as Chinese elm, Japanese box, bougainvillea, Fukien tea, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, water willow, Elaeagnus, firethorn, serissa, Chinese juniper and so on, continue, according to the original composition requirements and the development and change trends of the trunk and branches of the plants, to adjust and prune according to personal aesthetic taste, laying a foundation for spring growth and formation. While pruning, plants not repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For the trunks or large branches of crabapple species, plum species, elm-leaved spirea, papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum and so on that have been hollowed out by red-necked longhorn beetles and so on, they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches burned.

Clear the leaves under Chinese rose, rose, grape, crape myrtle and so on, gather them and burn them in a concentrated way, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases next year.

For horned wax scale, tortoise wax scale, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, thread scale and so on appearing on the trunks and branches of pittosporum, plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, plum, wintersweet, photinia and so on, spray with high concentrations of Supracide, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime sulfur mixture and so on to kill them, which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold easily appearing on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on plants such as bitter orange, finger citron and kumquat in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches with a damp cloth, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in greenhouses, spray 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake and so on into water pools or water vats for soaking and fermentation, so as to provide liquid application for potted flowers during the growing season; pile withered grass, branches, fallen leaves and so on in alternating layers with garden soil, set fire and burn them, and make burned soil by oneself, which can be used as covering soil for sowing and seedling raising in spring; mix and compost stable manure, pond fertilizer, tobacco powder, chicken droppings and pigeon droppings and so on with garden soil for fermentation, and it can be used as fertilizer for preparing culture soil.

IX. Plowing and Freezing Clods

For nursery land not yet plowed in December, seize the time to plow in early January. While plowing the garden land, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, farmyard manure and so on. After overwintering and freezing clods, make furrows and beds in early spring, for use in sowing and planting out seedlings.

Because January is particularly cold, plant species suitable for styling must be those with soft branches, good toughness and easy styling operations, such as Buddhist pine, Chinese cypress, ginkgo, boxleaf euonymus, tender cypress, Chinese juniper, serissa, creeping juniper, real juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water willow, Caragana, wintersweet, Euonymus pendulus, banyan, wisteria and so on. After styling, the plants are best placed indoors or in simple plastic cold frames, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms, which helps the healing of parts possibly damaged during styling.

For plants styled 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire and so on, if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, the original binding material should be removed, and coiling and pulling should be carried out again.

    In January, for some shallow-pot tree stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai and small and miniature bonsai, management should be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried on indoor sand beds; for tree stump bonsai, prevent the potting soil from freezing, injuring the plant's fibrous roots, and possibly causing artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate; also prevent plants planted on small rocks from dying after freezing. They should preferably be placed in a non-freezing location and given regular watering and spraying, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.