A detailed guide to hyacinth cultivation methods: learn them and your home flowers will bloom more beautifully
Hyacinth is a flower we are all familiar with, and its fragrance is very strong. However, when cultivating hyacinths, many people do not really understand or grasp the habits of hyacinths. Below, the editor will teach everyone how to correctly cultivate hyacinths.
Hyacinths can be grown in soil or hydroponically, and hyacinths do not have very high requirements for the growing environment. When growing in soil, choose a suitable flowerpot. When choosing a flowerpot, do not make it too large; a diameter of about 15 cm is just right. It is best if there are small holes at the bottom of the pot, otherwise it will not be breathable and the hyacinth roots will easily rot.
The soil must be loose and soft, and it does not need to be especially plentiful. When starting cultivation, you can put a little wood shavings at the bottom of the pot and place soft black soil on top. This has no effect at all on rooting, and after the wood shavings rot, they can also provide very good nutrients and promote the growth of hyacinths.
Hyacinths themselves are plants that like water, so you must pay attention when watering. Do not wait until the soil in the pot is dry before watering. Watering about once every 1-2 days is what allows hyacinths to grow better. If the water supply is insufficient, they will wilt, which greatly affects flowering.
If the hyacinth is being grown hydroponically, find a small bottle and fill it with clean water. When cultivating it, absolutely do not choose rice-washing water. Although rice-washing water has considerable nutrients, it is still unsuitable for growing flowers and can cause root rot. Also, change the water once every two days for normal growth.
Every time you change the water, be sure to clean the roots. After cleaning them thoroughly, just put them back into the glass bottle holding water. When hyacinths bloom, watch out for small flying insects, so in that case just spray insecticide yourself. But do not wash with water right after spraying the pesticide; wash after two days.
How to grow lilies: teaching you the cultivation methods and precautions for potted lilies
Like countless living things, for lilies to grow vigorously and ultimately produce beautiful flowers, the most fundamental conditions are: the bulbs themselves must be of good quality, the environment must be suitable, management must keep up, and from the time you plan to plant them until the final flowers wither, you must always care for them and manage them carefully. Only then can you be sure the lilies will be as you wish, pleasing to the eye. As for whether they can make money, that still depends on whether the market cooperates, but flower lovers grow them for their own enjoyment, so that is outside the scope of this article.1. Successfully ordering high-quality bulbs is the foundation of successful cultivation. However, because bulbs are not industrial products but agricultural crops, and are also imported products facing various national quality inspection requirements, various problems will always exist. No matter which company it is, domestic or foreign, if they pat their chest and guarantee that everyone's order (supply, supply quality) has no problems at all, then they are certainly a fraud. That being the case, you can only choose reliable suppliers to reduce the probability of problems with the bulbs.High-quality lily bulbs: firm, clean, with a good root system
A common problem with lily bulbs is Penicillium infection (as shown in the picture below). If the infection has not endangered the basal plate of the bulb, the problem is not serious.Freeze damage -- the bulb's sprout turns black (as shown in the picture below); in severe cases, it can only be discarded.2. Environment: A common slogan everyone sees is "even small grass has life." I remember a Dutch expert also said, "The water you can drink, it can drink too; the environment you can stay in, it can too." "Even small grass has life" expresses the true essence. You must treat it like your own baby, touch it, sense it, and then change its environment at any time, and only then can it repay you with beautiful flowers.
1) Soil:
Soil structure: Although lilies can grow in all soils, it is very important to ensure that the cultivation soil has a good structure and maintains good drainage throughout the entire growth stage. Poor soil structure and compaction often cause lily roots to grow weakly or even die due to lack of oxygen, or due to poor drainage, allow Pythium to run rampant and cause lily root death, ultimately leading to poor growth or even death of the lilies.
The picture below shows the situation where heavy rain from a typhoon flooded the soil, causing root death from lack of oxygen. Of course, overly compacted soil also makes the situation more serious.Soil pH and salinity: Maintaining an appropriate soil pH is very important for the development of lily roots and the correct absorption of nutrients. If the pH is too low, it will lead to excessive absorption of mineral nutrients (such as iron, manganese, and aluminum), while if the pH is too high, it will lead to insufficient absorption of phosphorus, manganese, and iron. Everyone knows that insufficiency is bad, but not everyone necessarily knows that going too far is just as bad.
Lilies are also sensitive to salinity. Too high salinity can produce roots that are hard, brittle, and yellow or brown in color, reduce the roots' water absorption, affect lily quality, and in severe cases even cause lily root death and lily plant death. Soil salinity is often affected by the fertilizers and water used.
The roots in the picture below were originally very beautiful, but due to the use of undecomposed organic fertilizer, part or all of the roots died. It is truly a great pity.Soil pathogens: Lilies often die because soil fungi harm the root system and cause plant death. Common fungi include Rhizoctonia, Pythium, and Phytophthora. Rhizoctonia only harms the plant while the sprout is still in the soil, while Pythium can be alleviated by improving soil drainage. Generally speaking, during the entire growth process, it is very necessary to use broad-spectrum fungicides several times, such as chlorothalonil.
The picture below shows the damage caused by Rhizoctonia and Phytophthora.From the above, it can be seen how critical suitable cultivation soil is to successful cultivation. If the soil is poor, no matter how much effort you put into management, you can only face it with tears. Therefore, it is best to choose soil that has not previously been used to grow lilies. Of course, the most ideal choice is peat (domestic peat is fine). To reduce management difficulty, it is very wise to use 80% peat and add 20% perlite or pine bark medium. If considering base fertilizer, using controlled-release fertilizer with controllable release is the most ideal. If you are very fond of organic fertilizer, be sure to use fully decomposed organic fertilizer.With such a good root system, why worry about not having beautiful lily flowers?
2) Temperature
Rooting stage temperature: For 2-3 weeks after planting, maintaining an appropriately low temperature (10-12 degrees) to ensure that lilies can grow good stem roots is very critical. However, most of the time we cannot guarantee such ideal weather. Therefore, professional growers use cold storage for rooting, while we can use the crisper compartment of a refrigerator. Wrapping lily bulbs in peat (the peat should not be too wet; enough if water drips when squeezed by hand) (breathable) and placing them in the refrigerator's crisper compartment for rooting is a good idea. Although low temperatures will prolong the growth period, I think everyone should not mind managing them for a few more days.In the case of pre-rooting, during high-temperature seasons, root first, then plant.
Growth stage temperature: Although the most ideal growth temperature for lilies is 15-25 degrees, we have no way to control the temperature of nature. However, we should still avoid extreme situations. Lilies below 5 degrees are prone to freeze damage, and above 35 degrees, the growth period will be greatly shortened and quality will decline accordingly. In summers with strong sunlight, we can lower the temperature by shading and strengthening ventilation. How pleasant it would be to have cool breezes under the shade of trees in summer.
3) Relative humidity: The suitable relative humidity for lilies needs to be between 70-80%, but this refers to professional producers cultivating in greenhouses. If you grow lilies in the yard or place them on a balcony, there is no need to consider this point. In greenhouses, overly high humidity often leads to poor growth, but I have not seen outdoor lilies grow poorly even because of continuous rainy weather (provided the soil drainage is good and fungicides are regularly sprayed to control Botrytis). Of course, slight effects will still occur. This is because ventilation in greenhouses is very poor; people feel very stuffy when they go inside, and plants feel the same way.
Here are a few pictures of lily leaf damage caused by excessively high greenhouse humidity.Because the humidity is too high, the water pressure inside the plant becomes too great, ultimately damaging the leaves due to ruptured cell walls. In severe cases, even the flower buds are gone. This is a physiological disorder, not damage from pathogens, so spraying fungicides is useless. Using calcium fertilizer can increase the resistance of cell walls and can reduce the damage.Long-term rainy weather makes the plant's leaves very tender, and because the plant needs to expel excess water from its body, the leaf stomata remain open for a long time. Being open for a long time ultimately causes the leaf stomata to lose their closing function (they originally open and close automatically according to climatic conditions). After the rainy weather ends, the leaf stomata still remain open and continue transpiration and water loss, ultimately causing the leaves to lose water, become papery, and even scorch.
4) Shading: Shading can control temperature, relative humidity, and light.
In summer, sunlight is usually very strong. For 2-3 weeks after planting (before budding), 80% of light can be blocked. After budding, because Asiatic lilies and LA hybrid lilies are sensitive to light, lack of light will cause bud abortion, so shading can be appropriately reduced, such as blocking 50% of light. Oriental lilies are not sensitive to light, so 50-70% of light can still be blocked.
The general steps for home potted lilies:
1. Preparation stage:
1) Cultivation medium: It is recommended that everyone choose peat soil as the main medium for planting.
2) Fertilizer: It is recommended to mix 3 kg of 14-14-14 slow-release fertilizer and 0.5 kg of calcium nitrate per cubic meter of medium as base fertilizer.
3) Pots: A 13 cm pot can plant 3 bulbs of the 12-14 cm specification; a 15 cm pot can plant 3 bulbs of 12-14 or 14-16 cm; in this way, choose pots according to your own situation. It is best if the pot height is above 12 cm.
2. Receiving lily bulbs: After long-distance logistics, when everyone receives the lily bulbs, they have thawed. Normally, there should be a few small sprouts. As long as the sprouts are no longer than 5 cm and are not broken, then even curved sprouts are no problem at all. Please plant them with confidence.
After receiving the bulbs, they can be soaked for 30 minutes in a 600-800 times dilution of chlorothalonil.
3. Planting:
1) First mix the medium and base fertilizer evenly, and water until water drips when squeezed by hand.
2) Spread 2-3 cm of the mixed medium at the bottom of the pot.
3) Plant the bulbs in the pot with the sprouts facing outward.
4) Cover the bulbs with about 8 cm of medium.
5) Water thoroughly and place in a shaded area, avoiding sunlight as much as possible.
4. It is recommended to plant 1, 3, or 5 bulbs per pot. Odd numbers look better. If there are more than 5, then whether the number is odd or even no longer matters.
At temperatures in June-July, sprouts generally appear in 7 days.
1. Medium: peat soil2. Fertilizer: controlled-release fertilizer, calcium nitrate3. Pot: a 160 dual-color pot, planting 3 bulbs4. Planting
1) Correct planting method: the bulb's sprout faces toward the pot wall.Incorrect planting method: the bulb's sprout faces the middle. Consequence: the sprouts all gather in the middle, which does not look good.Of course, if planted randomly, when the sprouts emerge, they will be very messy and disordered, and will not look good. As for pot planting, it is best to wait until the bulbs have a 3-5 cm sprout before planting. This way, the direction of the sprouts can be controlled, and the overall appearance of the plants will be better.
What growing environment after planting?
For two weeks after planting, lily growth still needs relatively low temperatures to continue developing a good root system. Therefore, for potted lilies, after planting you can choose a place without direct sunlight; for lilies planted in the open ground, a shade net can be used to block direct sunlight. However, whether potted or field-grown, once lilies show flower buds, they should immediately be given light. Potted lilies can be moved to a place with sufficient light, and for open-ground lilies the shade material must be removed; otherwise, it will affect the number of lily buds and flower quality. Asiatic lilies in particular are more sensitive to light, and in severe cases all buds may drop. Appropriate topdressing can make lily stems thicker and stronger, especially in hot summers. But note that the concentration should be lighter than usual application to avoid fertilizer damage. For topdressing, you can still choose a high-potassium lily-specific fertilizer 15-15-30 diluted with water, at a concentration of 1000-1500 ppm, that is, 1 gram of water-soluble fertilizer added to 1-1.5 liters of water, mixed evenly.
Each variety has different characteristics, and flowering time also differs. But temperature also affects how early or late flowering occurs. For the conventional flowering time of specific varieties, please refer to each variety's product information. Here, I want to remind friends in the northernmost areas that in the later growth stage of lilies, if the nighttime temperature falls below 10 degrees, please move the lilies indoors at night. Generally speaking, the time from rooting to flowering for Oriental lilies is about 100 days, while Asiatic lilies need only about 60 days. Therefore, when choosing varieties, flower lovers should choose according to local climatic conditions and their own care conditions, to avoid the situation where, just when it is time to bloom, they are frozen and all previous efforts are wasted. Would that not be a pity?
Notes:
1. The previously mentioned idea that "you can use the crisper compartment of a refrigerator, wrap lily bulbs in peat (the peat should not be too wet; enough if water drips when squeezed by hand) (breathable), and place them in the refrigerator's crisper compartment for rooting, which is a good idea" -- if placed in the refrigerator's cold storage compartment to go through the 2-3 week rooting period, then when taken out from a temperature of 5 degrees in the cold storage compartment, the outside temperature is at least 25 degrees. Can they adapt?
Answer: Yes. Professional lily cut flower producers take rooted lily bulbs out of cold storage, and the temperature inside the greenhouse is as high as 40 degrees. However, please pay attention to shading in the early stage. After budding, please reduce the degree of shading. If heavy shading of 80% is maintained all along, Asiatic lilies may abort their buds due to lack of light.
2. How to handle the bulbs after the flowers fade
After the flowers fade, please cut off the spent flowers. Of course, the stems and leaves are retained. At the same time, please maintain normal care. Generally, when the low-temperature season (November-December) arrives, the aboveground stems will die, and the bulbs will remain in the soil. During this stage, please reduce the use of water and fertilizer. After spring begins, as long as the bulbs have not rotted or been eaten by insects, they will grow and bloom again. For lilies planted in the yard, you do not need to bother with them. The next year they will grow out nicely, year after year, and more and more small lilies will appear.
3. Posting a few pictures of professionally grown lily pots from abroad★How to pot lilies
Lilies belong to cool-climate flowers, that is, regions with a cool climate and large day-night temperature differences are most suitable for growing lilies.
Lilies do not have the layer of brown old skin on the outside of tulip bulbs. Before being planted in soil, they must be stored at a constant 2 degrees, otherwise they will quickly root and are also prone to rot. Therefore, after buying lily bulbs from the market, we must plant them as soon as possible and must not leave them for long.
1. Prepare the bulbs
The top is the sprout, and the bottom is the roots. Do not mix them up! Some bulbs have not yet grown roots. Look at the scales with the opening facing upward; that is the sprout!
Before planting, bulbs should first be disinfected by soaking in a 1000 times solution of imported carbendazim for 20 minutes, rinsed with clean water, and planted after drying.2. Prepare soil and pots
Lilies like fertile sandy soil with both good water retention and good drainage. Peat: river sand: perlite = 2:2:1. You can also use soil for cactus-type plants. In any case, you cannot use clay.
Because lilies are bulb flowers with two layers of roots, the container chosen should be a relatively deep pot.3. Planting
First put 10-15 cm of soil into the bottom of the pot, place the bulbs. If there are three bulbs in one pot, place the bulb heads toward the edge of the flowerpot, that is, place them tilted toward the pot edge. This ensures that after sprouting, the plants are distributed evenly. Cover the tops of the bulbs with about 5 cm of soil, water thoroughly, and place in a cool place for 1-2 days.4. Care
Water: Keep the soil moist. From just budding to flowering, spraying water twice a day, morning and evening, is enough. In addition, water twice a month with a 1000 times solution of imported carbendazim.
Fertilizing: Generally fertilize once every half month.Common problems in lily cultivation
1. Leaf scorch
Cause of leaf scorch: caused by physiological calcium deficiency
Conditions for occurrence: It is prone to occur under conditions such as overly heavy shading, poor ventilation, high air humidity, continuous cloudy days, too low soil pH, and poor plant root systems.
Preventive measures: Improve ventilation conditions and increase plant water transpiration.
Appropriately provide light earlier and harden the seedlings.
Using root treatment before planting is beneficial to root development and the absorption of calcium ions.
Peeling leaves (separating the tightly clasped leaves) just before the leaf scorch period can also reduce the occurrence of leaf scorch.
Keep dry and avoid long-term water accumulation on the plants.
Apply more calcium fertilizer such as calcium nitrate, which can be done through root fertilization or foliar fertilization.2. Root burn
Cause of root burn: salt concentration in the soil solution is too high
A. The soil itself is severely salinized and the EC value is too high;
B. Improper fertilization, applying too much fertilizer at one time, causing the soil solution concentration to become too high;
C. Insufficient water and overly dry soil can also cause the soil solution concentration to increase.
Preventive measures: Do not choose soil with excessively high salinity; do not directly place high-salinity medium or fertilizer on the bulbs; adopt the method of applying thin fertilizer frequently to avoid using a large amount of fertilizer at one time and causing root burn; frequently check the root system. If root burn occurs, water promptly and combine with foliar fertilizer spraying.3. High temperature has a serious impact on lilies, so high temperatures should be avoided as much as possible, including high temperatures in soil and the environment. Anything above 30°C is considered high temperature.4. Common leaf yellowing5. Phytophthora blight
Preventive measures:
A. Focus on prevention, avoid continuously excessive soil moisture (especially avoid flooding) and excessively high air humidity, and try to avoid air humidity above 90%.
B. Disinfect soil and bulbs before planting. You can choose dexon, phosethyl-Al manganese zinc, hymexazol, etc.
C. Avoid continuous cropping in Phytophthora-infested crop land with shared pathogen hosts, such as avoiding continuous cropping with baby's breath, carnation, Solanaceae, and cucurbit vegetables. That is: try to avoid planting lilies again in soil where baby's breath, carnation, Solanaceae, or cucurbits have been grown.
6. Root rot
Preventive measures:
Control soil moisture
Disinfect bulbs and soil with carbendazim, dexon, hymexazol, etc.
Reduce the amount of nitrogen fertilizer used, especially ammoniacal nitrogen, and appropriately increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.7. Fusarium stem rot
Preventive measures:
Disinfect bulbs and soil before planting; lower soil temperature8. Botrytis -- avoid continuous high-humidity environments9. Blind flower (no flower)
Causes of blind flower:
A. Insufficient water and fertilizer supply: Lilies are a flower variety that needs a relatively large supply of water and fertilizer. In the early stage, they mainly rely on the nutrients of the bulb to supply plant growth, and in the middle and later stages they mainly rely on fertilizer and water supply and photosynthesis to maintain plant growth. If the water and fertilizer supply is poor, it will seriously affect lily growth and development, causing stems to be thick at the bottom and thin at the top, plants to be weak, and in severe cases causing blind flowers and bud drop.
B. Too high temperature: Too high temperature will seriously affect lily quality: lilies prefer a cool climate. If the temperature is too high, growth is too fast, material accumulation in the plant is low, and organic matter consumption is high, causing nutritional deficiency, and in severe cases causing blind flowers and bud drop.
C. Insufficient light: Insufficient light, overly dense planting, and poor ventilation affect the plant's photosynthesis and reduce material accumulation, easily causing weak plants and even bud drop. OT hybrid lilies in particular are more sensitive to light, and insufficient light easily causes bud abortion.
D. Insufficient nutrients in the bulb: Bulbs that are too small in specification, harvested too early, or stored too long will also have insufficient nutrients, easily causing blind flowers and bud drop in lilies.
E. Planting too deep: Planting too deep causes lilies to emerge slowly and consumes a large part of the bulb's nutrients, leaving the plant with insufficient nutrients and poor growth, and in severe cases causing blind flowers.
F. Poor lily root growth: If the lily root system is poor and its absorptive capacity is insufficient, the plant will have insufficient nutrition, and the nutrients supplied for flower bud growth will not be enough. Flower bud growth will be inhibited, and blind flowers and bud drop will also occur.★Lily variety selection and planting methods
I. Basic Introduction
Lilies are hard to grow?
Actually, that's not true
I'm a bulb enthusiast, and the order I've arrived at from years of cultivation is
Ease of growing: (common problems in parentheses)
Rain lily > Amaryllis (expensive...) = Freesia (lodging) = Grape hyacinth (messy foliage) = Crocus (degeneration) > Lily (bud blast and bulb rot) > Daffodil (bulb rot, degeneration, slow growth) > Hyacinth (stuck buds, bulb rot, degeneration) > Tulip (bulb rot, bud blast, one-shot) > Ranunculus (rot, plain and simple) > Anemone (rots nonstop from the very start)
Oxalis has too many varieties to generalize; some are as easy as weeds, others are god-tier difficult
Gloxinia and Cyclamen are better grown as herbaceous plants, so they're not included in the ranking; bulbous Iris isn't widely available enough either, so it's not included
So you can see, lilies aren't only suited to being cut flowers in flower shops; as home potted plants and perennial garden plants they're excellent too
In fact, most of the parents of lily hybrids come from China; they're thoroughly Chinese flowers and are very well adapted to our climate (except Oriental lilies, which come from Japan)
II. Variety Selection
Order of ease of growing
LA > Asiatic (A) > Longiflorum (L) = LO > OT > Oriental (O)
LA is an improvement on Asiatic lilies, producing bulblets faster, with larger flowers
LO can be considered an improvement on Longiflorum, with richer flower colors and stronger fragrance
OT improves the heat tolerance, multiplication rate and ease of growing of Oriental lilies
Fragrance
Oriental = OT > Longiflorum = LO >> LA; Asiatic = 0
The last two, the Asiatic types, are basically fragrance-free, suitable for gardeners who dislike the scent of lilies
Longiflorum has a light, sweet fragrance, stronger at night.
The first two are strongly fragrant; Oriental lilies have that flower-shop lily smell, OT is sometimes sweet and sometimes pungent, LO is a mix of Longiflorum and Oriental scents, and the fragrance is very weak in hot weather.
1. Lily flowers generally have their strongest fragrance 1-2 days after opening, then it gradually fades; it's normal for them not to be very fragrant right when they open
2. Lily fragrance is not harmful to the human body and won't trigger allergies; only an overly intense fragrance may stimulate the olfactory nerves of sensitive people, causing symptoms like dizziness and excitement with difficulty sleeping
3. Lily pollen easily stains clothing and skin; don't rinse with water, as it will stick even more firmly. Instead, remove it with clear tape. Even cutting off the stamens is a good approach
Main hybrid classifications and their detailed pros and cons
1. Asiatic lily (Asiatic)
Pros: Many flower colors, short stature, many buds, flowers facing upward, early blooming (2-3 months from planting), easy to grow, fast to multiply, extremely cold-hardy (can overwinter outdoors in Northeast China)
Cons: Flowers on the small side (12-15cm), no fragrance, high light requirements during the bud stage, bud blast easily with insufficient light
Representative varieties: Many; most can be chosen with confidence, and there are also potted types around 20-30cm tall
The potted effect of Asiatic 'Spring Field': pot diameter 15cm; the one on the right is the result of chlormequat treatment, the leftmost is the original plant height
Actual potted plants don't reach the labeled height (110cm); that's the height after two to three years of cultivation
SpringfieldTinos2. Oriental lily (Oriental), commonly called fragrant lily together with OT, the flower-shop cut flower
Pros: Strong fragrance, large flowers (15-20cm), low light requirements, flat flower shape, broad leaves, flamboyant and gorgeous blooms
Cons: Some varieties are spindly and prone to lodging, not very heat-tolerant, relatively slow to multiply, late blooming, pronounced yellowing of the lower leaves
Representative varieties: Sorbonne (the pale pink flower in flower shops), Siberia (the white flower in flower shops)
Potted Oriental lily effect (the famous variety Stargazer), very beautiful; note the leaves are fewer but broader and thicker than Asiatic liliesSorbonne3. Trumpet/Longiflorum lily (Longiflorum), also called Easter lily
Pros: Elegant and graceful flower shape, very easy to grow, moisture-tolerant, fast to multiply, relatively poor cold hardiness, native to the subtropics, no low-temperature dormancy needed
Cons: Only white (all the pink and yellow ones are LO hybrids; online shops have all labeled them wrong this year), pollen easily stains the petals
Representative varieties: Everyone has heard of the renowned White Heaven, right?4. LO hybrids - recommended
Pros: Inherits the flower shape and ease of growing of Longiflorum, and the flower colors and fragrance of Oriental lilies; very easy to grow and multiply, large flowers (18-25cm), fast development, no low-temperature dormancy needed
Cons: Under high temperatures a single flowering period isn't long, relatively few buds, colors fade with insufficient light, few varieties available domestically
Representative varieties: Triumphator is the standout representative, highly recommended; one of the lilies any beginner can keep alive (often sold out...)
Potted effect of Triumphator; note it's fairly tall with large flowersUnder strong light and low temperatures the flower color is very intense5. OT hybrids - recommended
Pros: Inherits the excellent genes of Trumpet lilies (whose parents include Lilium regale from the Min River in Sichuan, etc.); richer flower colors than Oriental lilies, heat-tolerant and easy to grow, robust plants, no low-temperature dormancy needed. Very thick stems, large flowers (20-25cm), rich fragrance, suitable for gardens and large containers; commonly called Tree lily abroad
Cons: Often few flowers the first year, some varieties have flowers so large they're deformed, flowers tend to droop
Representative varieties: Conca D'or, Yelloween, Nymph; wide color coverage, especially the yellow range that Oriental lilies lack
Note: Apart from Yelloween, yellow varieties tend to have fewer buds; even a 16-18cm bulb has only two to three buds
A perennial Conca D'or; note the height and flower countYelloween, large flowers with a rich, fruity sweet fragrance6. LA hybrids - recommended
Pros: Multiply even more frantically than Asiatic lilies, large flowers, some varieties lightly fragrant; these love to split bulbs crazily and aren't as prone to bud blast as Asiatic lilies
Cons: Like Asiatic lilies, the flower shape is relatively stiff, flowers easily deformed, and the flower count is often lower than Asiatic lilies
Representative varieties: Red Alert, Diamond Party, etc.; basically any can be chosen freely, no taboos
Potted effect of Red Alert; compared with Asiatic lilies the flowers are larger and the leaves broader, the Longiflorum flower shape wasn't inherited, and the fragrance comes and goesRed Alert7. Edible lilies
The most common is often the Chinese native species Lilium lancifolium; tall and slender plants, recurved petals, easy to grow, but not suitable indoors
Its ornamental value may be inferior to Dutch hybrids; it is one of the parents of Asiatic lilies
Very distinctive recurved, drooping flowers
Sometimes used by unscrupulous sellers to pass off as fragrant lilies8. Double-flowered lilies
Divided into Asiatic and Oriental types; characteristics and care as above, rather like double amaryllis, while the distinctive lily character is weak, prone to deformity and incomplete petal doublingIII. Indoor Care
1. Light
Not very picky; an enclosed balcony works too, and east, west and south exposures are all fine
At least 3 hours of direct light, 4-6 hours is better
The blazing sun of a west-facing exposure may scorch Oriental lily leaves, so moderate protection is needed
Note that when Asiatic lily buds are the size of a peanut, they must not lack light, otherwise they'll blast
2. Soil; this is the most important, and drainage and aeration are the first priority
I use peat and perlite, but the materials aren't limited; as long as it's loose, airy and light, it prevents bulb rot
Peat (sphagnum peat, sterilized potting soil, compost soil, coconut coir): perlite (or various granular media) = 2:1 to 1:1
The soil near the bulb can have a bit more perlite, which is more reassuring
Slow-release fertilizer/organic fertilizer can be mixed evenly into the soil mix; don't pile it all at the bottom of the bulb, as it won't be absorbed and easily causes bulb rot
3. Water
Except that Oriental lilies are best kept evenly moist, the other varieties are very drought-tolerant (especially in the ground), so it's better to err on the side of less; wait until the pot feels light, or the surface soil is completely dry, before watering
For each watering you can judge by the weight of the pot; water thoroughly again when it feels light
The signs of overwatering are bulb rot, a large number of lower leaves turning yellow and dropping, withered and scorched buds, and scorched yellow top leaves; if any one appears, be on your guard
Underwatering rarely happens, since the bulb and fleshy stems can store water, so when you see wilting, suspect bulb rot first rather than lack of water
4. Fertilizer and bulb building
Lilies like fertilizer, but use weak doses frequently; heavy fertilizer causes leaf burn (scorched leaf tips, dead buds)
If growing for a single season, no fertilizer is needed
If you want them to rebloom year after year, then fertilizing after flowering is important, mainly with nitrogen and potassium
The nutrient uptake ratio of lilies: nitrogen:phosphorus:potassium = 10:1:12, but phosphorus is easily fixed and hard to absorb, so fertilizing at a ratio of 1:1:1 or 1:1:1.5 is fine
Remember to fertilize weakly and often; just add a little with each watering, no need for strong fertilizer; its fertilizer needs are smaller than other bulbs
Don't fertilize at sprouting; during rapid growth, mainly nitrogen; when buds appear, mainly phosphorus and potassium; don't fertilize during flowering; start building the bulb immediately after flowering, with the fertilizer ratios as stated above
5.pH
Oriental lilies prefer slightly acidic soil (5.5-6); peat itself is acidic enough
Other varieties have no special requirements
6. Temperature
Lilies are actually spring-planted bulbs: plant in spring, flower in summer, build up in autumn, store in winter (for most parts of the country)
For the very hot and humid Guangdong and Guangxi region, as well as Hong Kong, China and Taiwan, China, you can consider refrigerating in summer, planting in autumn, and enjoying flowers in winter and spring
When rooting in spring, keep the temperature around 12°C, which is best for stem root growth
In summer, take care to protect against high-temperature damage; lower temperatures can extend the flowering period. Among them OT is very heat-tolerant so it can bloom under the blazing sun, while Oriental lily flowers often wither quickly in the strongest sunlight
7. Dormancy
When winter temperatures are low (0-10°C) they go dormant (leaves drop and stems yellow; only then cut off the withered stems)
Ordinary Asiatic and Oriental lilies need a cold period of at least 1.5-3 months (4-5°C) before they can start the next year's growth
Lilies with Longiflorum (LO, LA, L) and Trumpet (T) genes can be planted year-round without deliberately creating a cold period; it's enough for winter temperatures to be below 20°C
Natural low temperatures can be replaced by refrigerating at 4°C
Heat-intolerant varieties may go dormant just 1-2 months after flowering, but early dormancy is detrimental to building the bulb for reblooming; even less should you cut off the stems and leaves right after flowering
Leaves dropping and dormancy early often means bulb rot or severely adverse conditions
8. How to plant
No need for a disinfecting soak
Keep the basal roots (the old roots at the bottom of the bulb) as much as possible; heavily rotted parts can be cut off
There should be at least 5cm of soil above the top of the lily bulb; bulbs should be 2-3cm or more apart, and the growing tip should lean slightly toward the pot wall rather than the center of the pot
9. Planting depth
Lilies have two layers of roots; below the bulb are the basal roots (which can remain functional for several years), with a weaker absorption function; the bulbs you receive often have basal roots that are rotted and battered, so don't worry
At the base of the newly sprouted shoot, several layers of dense, pure white roots are produced, called stem roots (annual); these are the main force for absorbing nutrients, so the top of the bulb must not be placed at the soil surface
Moderately deep planting helps avoid heat damage and build the bulb
So the formula is drainage layer + 3-5cm bottom soil + bulb + 5-10cm covering soil, very simple, right~; the pot should be at least 15cm tall
Water thoroughly to settle the roots, then wait patiently; don't dig around; after the shoots break through the soil, resume normal care
As shown in the pictureHere's an update on a beginner planting method: "adding soil in stages -- different from the old method of adding all the soil at once"
I forgot to mention it earlier
That is, when first planting lilies, you can let the soil cover only the lily bulb, without covering it with more soil at first, reserving 8-10cm of space above the soil surface for adding more soil later. Water thoroughly, wait for the shoot to emerge from the top of the bulb, then gradually add soil to the normal depth (5-10cm from the top of the bulb to the soil surface)
The advantage is that it satisfies everyone's curious and impatient psychology, avoids the dilemma of being afraid the bulb won't sprout and wanting to dig it up but not daring to, and at the same time lets you adjust the direction of the shoot as it grows, so it doesn't emerge crookedly and unattractively from deep in the soil; it's also easier to water thoroughly the first time. (For reference only; this method won't interfere with stem root growth)
10. After flowering and dormancy
After opening, the flowers can be cut for vase use; they generally fade in 5-7 days. They can also be left for display. Do not cut more than 1/3 of the plant's height (leave at least 2/3, and the more you leave the better, otherwise what will feed the bulb?). The stamens can be removed to prevent them from staining the petals.
After flowering, remove the spent flowers to prevent seed set.
Try not to force dormancy; letting lilies follow their own rhythm gives the best reblooming results and multiplication rate.
During dormancy, keep them in the original pot, with almost no watering; give a little water each month just to keep the peat slightly moist.
In hot summer regions, the bulbs can be dug up in spring and put in the refrigerator, then planted in autumn.
For Asiatic lilies and Oriental lilies, new shoots emerge around February to March of the following year when temperatures rise.
Trumpet lilies may also sprout in autumn; just let them grow and bloom naturally.
IV. Courtyard Cultivation
This is very simple.
Planting depth is 15cm-20cm in the north, and shallower as appropriate in the south.
Asiatic lilies can be planted throughout China.
Oriental lilies can be planted in the ground with confidence except in South China and Northeast China.
OT, LO and LA lilies can be planted in the ground south of Liaoning.
Pure trumpet lilies can be planted in the ground south of the Yellow River.
In particularly cold areas without snow cover, cover with branches, straw, compost, etc. to a depth of 5cm; if there is snow, there is no need to fear they will be frostbitten.
Cold hardiness: A > LA >> LO = OT > O >> L
A late spring cold snap may damage lilies that have just sprouted, so some covering and protection are needed.
Be sure to deep-dig; heavy clay soil should be made into ridges, and add more organic matter to facilitate drainage (the key of keys). In hot, dry summers, water occasionally.
V. Lily Propagation Methods
1. Bulb division
When the main bulb grows to a certain size, the growing points naturally split into two to several connected bulbs (mostly at flowering size). This process begins after flowering and occurs every year. It is the simplest propagation method.
The propagation speed mentioned when introducing varieties refers to the speed of bulb division.
L=LA=A>LO=OT>>O
Oriental lilies may or may not divide each year, depending on cultivation and care; the first five types all divide very readily.
When the number of divided bulbs is too large and the shoots are overcrowded, they can be pulled apart by hand during winter dormancy. It is very simple and will not harm the bulbs.
Asiatic lilies may send up multiple shoots in the first year; such bulbs often flower poorly, but after one year of growing they become several plants.
The growing point splits in two, with the remains of the current year's old stem in the middle.2. Stem bulbs
These are actually small daughter bulbs produced on stem roots. Their number and quality are greatly related to the quality of the stem roots and how well they were cultivated that year. After 1-3 years they can reach flowering size.
They develop faster than bulbils, equivalent to starting from the second growth stage of a bulbil (basal leaf---stem---flower).
Asiatic lilies, trumpet lilies, LA and LO are likewise outstanding at this type of propagation.
Especially in LA lilies, the stem bulbs in the first year are very likely to reach flowering bulb size.
The illustration shows small bulbs around the stem roots.3. Bulbils
In Asiatic lilies and tiger lilies (Lilium lancifolium), after flowering, especially after bud blast, small bulbs form at the base of the leaves on the plant; these are called bulbils. When mature they often produce roots and drop off.
They develop in the soil; in the first year they only produce one grass-like leaf, then go dormant in winter; in the second year they produce a daughter bulb and clustered leaves.
Then they go dormant again, and in the third year they send up a stem and flower. Although slow, they are produced in large numbers.
When mature they are purple-black.4. Scales
Very similar to scale propagation of Hippeastrum: remove healthy scales (or scales that have accidentally fallen off), insert them obliquely in sterilized, moist peat or vermiculite and refrigerate; after one month small bulbs can grow, which can be planted separately. The multiplication rate is high but it is slow.
The development process is the same as for bulbils.5. Seeds - not recommended
Not recommended unless you are an enthusiast. Apart from species such as trumpet lilies and Lilium regale, which can be tried, most hybrids either have empty seed shells or grow slowly, and self-pollinated offspring will vary.
6. Cuttings - not recommended
Only applies to Taiwan lily (Lilium formosanum) hybrids, which can root.
If the stems of cut LO and LA flowers are kept moist, they can produce small bulbils that can be separated and planted, but the stems themselves are difficult to root.
It is basically useless for Oriental lilies and others, so cut flowers from flower shops cannot be grown.
Lilies are monopodial monocotyledons; once the terminal bud is damaged, that year's reproductive growth (flowering) stops. Therefore, never try pinching or cuttings.
VI. Common Problems
Basically, growers' questions are concentrated on the first two items.
1. Bulb rot - control watering well; better dry than wet.
Caused by fungi, with waterlogging as the main trigger. By the time it is discovered it is often too late. If the basal plate is intact, peel off the rotten scales and store after disinfection.
Symptoms vary: yellowing leaf edges, loss of lower leaves, plant wilting that does not improve with watering, blackening buds on OT, LO, LA and others, obvious growth stagnation, and so on. All are very likely to be bulb rot.
2. Bud blast
Common in Asiatic lilies; the cause is insufficient light (continuous rain, being kept indoors). The phenomenon is that small buds turn from green to brown, then wither. They will not bloom that year, so continue to care for the bulb well. In lilies without Asiatic blood, bud blast is mainly caused by bulb rot.
3. Leaf scorch
Strong fertilizer or unrotted fertilizer may damage the roots, causing severe leaf tip scorch and bud withering. At this point, flush the potting soil with plenty of water, and if necessary repot and change the soil. Oriental lilies are relatively prone to leaf scorch. Note that chloride ions and fluoride ions in water and fertilizer should be low (phosphorus fertilizers such as superphosphate contain more of them; use with caution).
4. Breakage
Treat the same as bud blast: continue to care for the bulb. Lilies will not produce side branches; a broken terminal bud means no flowering that year.
5. Lower leaves turning yellow and dropping
A common problem in lilies, especially severe in Oriental lilies and some Asiatic lilies; in LA, LO and OT this phenomenon is not obvious. If not severe, it basically does not affect ornamental value and can serve as an indicator of plant health.
5. Pests
Not common; occasionally scale insects, Japanese beetles, aphids and others attack. Snails may nibble flower buds; when planting in the ground, pay attention to protection.
6. Gray mold
Common in greenhouses with particularly high humidity, and during hot, rainy weather; mold-like lesions appear on the leaves. Spray with fungicide to eliminate it.
7. Out-of-season sprouting
For particularly vigorous varieties such as trumpet lilies, new shoots may emerge in winter as dormancy approaches; let them grow.
8. Failure to sprout
This is the situation new growers fear most. Fortunately, unless it is due to bulb rot or shoot rot, it is rare; it is often because the bulb has not experienced enough cold to break dormancy.
In this case, it can be placed in the refrigerator for treatment, and planted once there are signs of sprouting.
9. Deformed shoots, double flowers
Often appear in cold-treated autumn bulbs, related to excessively long cold treatment; generally does not affect planting.
VII. Selection, Purchase and Storage
Each year suppliers have spring and autumn group orders.
Spring is a good season to buy lilies; reservations are now being taken in various places, with delivery from February to April.
The bulbs purchased are often fresh bulbs with very short shoots or no shoots.
In autumn, cold-treated bulbs (to break dormancy for autumn flowering) and pre-rooted bulbs (providing suitable temperatures in summer for stem root growth) are offered, with delivery from August to September. There are fewer varieties. They are recommended for indoor planting in the north and for the Guangdong and Guangxi regions; when planted outdoors in the north they often dry up in the north wind before flowering.
When such bulbs arrive, the shoots are already very long and break easily; never handle them roughly.
Lily bulbs do not store well because they have no protective outer skin; once dehydrated they die.
During winter dormancy they can be left in the original pot without taking them out; water once a month just to keep the potting soil slightly moist.
Those who must take them out of the pot can put moist peat in a plastic bag, remove the stems from the dug-up bulbs and bury them in it, then store in the refrigerator's cold storage compartment (not the freezer!), and take them out to plant once dormancy is broken and they sprout.
VIII. Other
Pot selection:
The bigger and deeper the pot the better, as long as drainage is smooth.
For home use
14-16cm bulbs: an 18cm pot can hold three.
16-18cm bulbs: a 20cm pot can hold three.
A 15cm-18cm pot can also be used to plant a single bulb.
This is the minimum for pot use; the pot diameter can be increased as appropriate. Do not use shallow pots; the reason has been explained above.
Bulb size:
14-16cm bulbs are mainly L, A, LA and LO varieties.
For Oriental lilies and OT, bulbs of 16-18cm are generally needed to ensure the number of flowers.
Bulb circumference is greatly related to the number of flowers; generally flowering starts at 12-14cm, and 18-20cm is exhibition grade. Trumpet lily types and OT types can be grown to a circumference of 25cm.
Plant height:
When first growing lilies, seeing the data of 90, 100, 110, 120 or even 130cm seems terrifying.
But that is the mature plant height reached only after about two years of ground planting.
The plant height in pots is far below the stated values, and modern hybrids have very thick, sturdy stems, so even with large flowers and many flowers they will not lodge or break.
(In the first year in a pot, it is about 1/2 to 2/3 of the standard height.)
Theoretically, strong light and moderately high temperatures make plants shorter and cause earlier flowering, while weak light and low temperatures elongate the stem and delay flowering.
Asiatic lilies take 70-90 days from planting to flowering, Oriental lilies 90-120 days; the order for the remaining varieties starts with early A.
Please learn to grow lilies in a rough, relaxed way.
There are now many lily-growing posts on forums, but growers still treat them as too delicate: how to mix soil, how to disinfect, how to plant, how to water, whether to shade or sun them, all in exhaustive detail. Careful study is certainly good, but I think growing flowers should be a kind of leisure, concerned with a calm and tranquil state of mind, rather than being filled with anxiety and worry. What meaning is there in growing flowers then?
Too much meticulous care actually makes it especially easy to become overzealous, wanting to dig them up and look every day, water a little every day, move them here and there; the result is often too much water, rotten roots, and no flowers.
In fact, under natural conditions there is often a lack of water and fertilizer, pests and diseases run rampant, heavy rain pours down, and fierce winds blow, yet lilies still bloom and set seed year after year, growing and multiplying. If you ignore them, they can bloom very well.
★How to grow potted lilies
Growth habits: They like moisture and light, and require fertile, humus-rich, deep, sandy soil with extremely good drainage. Most varieties are suitable for growing in slightly acidic to neutral soil. Specifically, there are the following points:
Lilies like cool, humid environments; places with ample sunlight and slightly shaded environments are more suitable for lilies. They avoid drought and extreme heat, and their cold hardiness is somewhat weaker.
The temperature for growth and flowering is 16-24°C; below 5°C or above 30°C growth almost stops, and plants only grow normally above 10°C. Above 25°C growth stagnates again. If the winter nighttime temperature is below 5°C for 5-7 consecutive days, flower bud differentiation and bud development will be seriously affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers.
They like fertile, deep soil rich in humus, and most dislike hard clay; slightly acidic soil with good drainage is best, with a soil pH of 5.5-6.5.
How to grow potted lilies? Potted lily cultivation methods:
1. Cultivation time: Potted lilies are suitable for September to October.
2. Soil: The growing medium should be a mix of leaf mold, sandy soil and garden soil in a 1:1:1 ratio, with plenty of fully rotted compost and a small amount of bone meal added at the bottom of the pot as a base fertilizer. The planting depth is generally about 2-3 times the diameter of the bulb.
The potting soil should not be too wet, otherwise the bulb rots easily. Potted lilies should be repotted once a year, with new growing medium and base fertilizer.
3. Fertilizing: Lilies do not have very high fertilizer requirements; usually it is enough to apply fertilizer as appropriate when growth begins in spring and at the early flowering stage. Some growers abroad believe that lilies need relatively more nitrogen and potassium fertilizer, and that it should be applied once every 10-15 days during the growing period, while phosphorus fertilizer should be limited because too much phosphorus fertilizer causes leaves to turn yellow.
During the flowering period, phosphorus fertilizer can be added for 1-2 days. To make the bulb plump, spent flowers should be cut off promptly after flowering to reduce nutrient consumption. Watering only needs to keep the potting soil moist, but during the peak growing season and in dry weather it must be watered appropriately and more frequently, and water should often be sprinkled around the pot to increase air humidity.
4. Temperature: The suitable growing temperature for lilies is 12-18°C. In winter, even if the temperature drops to 3-5°C, they will not die of cold.
5. Light: Lilies have the characteristics of cold resistance, light preference, fertilizer tolerance and fear of wetness. Lack of sunlight and long-term shading will affect normal flowering. However, they adapt widely to regions and can be grown in the ground or in pots throughout the north and south.
Because lilies are bulbous plants, they can also be planted directly from bulbs, requiring deep planting to 6-7cm so that the lateral roots can penetrate deeply and absorb as many nutrients as possible. The growing medium should preferably be sandy loam; clay and lime soil should not be used. If pond mud is used for planting, some river sand and crushed charcoal should also be mixed in appropriately, so that the medium is loose and breathable and can flower in due season.
In addition, during the growing period of lilies, the pot should be turned once a week. Otherwise the plant tends to grow lopsided, affecting its appearance.
★Lily cultivation methods
Lilies are undoubtedly flowers that many growers love very much. Many growers want to plant them at home to beautify their rooms, but do not know how to grow lilies. Here is a brief introduction:
Lilies prefer cool, humid environments. Locations with ample sunlight and slightly shaded environments are more suitable for lilies. They are averse to drought and intense heat, and their cold hardiness is somewhat poor. The growth and flowering temperature is 16-24°C. If the nighttime temperature in winter stays below 5°C for 5-7 consecutive days, flower bud differentiation and flower bud development will be severely affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers. Lilies prefer fertile, deep soil rich in humus and are most averse to hard clay; well-drained, slightly acidic soil is best. Lily propagation methods include bulb division, scale cuttings, seed propagation and tissue culture.
I. Growth Habits of Lilies
Lilies are bulbous flowers belonging to the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae. They prefer environments with ample sunlight and are long-day plants. The length of light exposure not only affects flower bud differentiation but also affects flower growth and development. Lilies do not like high temperatures and prefer cool, humid climates. The optimal growth temperature for Asiatic lilies and Oriental lilies is 20-25°C during the day, and 25-28°C for Lilium longiflorum (Easter lily), with nighttime temperatures above 14°C. Temperatures above 30°C will severely affect lily growth and development, causing flower bud abortion and significantly reducing the flowering rate. Below 10°C, growth nearly comes to a standstill.
II. Soil Requirements for Lilies
Lilies require soil that is rich in humus, deep and loose, able to maintain appropriate moisture while draining well. Sandy loam is best. Clay soil must absolutely not be used for planting lilies.
Lilies prefer slightly acidic soil. The suitable soil pH for Asiatic and Lilium longiflorum (Easter lily) is 6-7, and for Oriental lilies it is 5.5-6.5. Lilies are generally not salt-tolerant; the fluorine and chlorine content in the soil should both be below 50 mg/L, and the total soil salinity should not exceed 1.5 ms/cm.
III. Preparatory Work Before Planting
1. Soil disinfection: Before planting lilies, soil disinfection should be carried out. Common disinfection methods include steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. Steam disinfection is rarely used nowadays due to high energy consumption and cumbersome operation. Chemical disinfection uses
40% formalin diluted to 1:50 or 1:100 to sprinkle on the soil, with a dosage of 2.5 kg per sq m. After sprinkling, cover with plastic film for 5-7 days, then uncover and let it air for 10-15 days before planting. Alternatively, carbendazim powder at 8-10 g/sq m can be mixed into the soil for disinfection.
2. Thawing and disinfection of seed bulbs: After the bulbs arrive, immediately open the packaging and place them in a 10-15°C environment to thaw. After complete thawing, disinfect them. Disinfection method: Soak the bulbs in a 0.1% aqueous solution of captan, chlorothalonil, carbendazim or potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. Alternatively, soak the bulbs in 80 times diluted 40% formalin solution for 30 minutes. After removal, rinse off the residual solution on the bulbs with clean water, then dry them in a cool place before planting. Some domestic planting bases cut off the original basal roots before planting, which helps promote new basal root growth.
3. Storage of seed bulbs: If the thawed bulbs cannot be planted immediately, they should not be refrozen, otherwise there is a risk of frost damage. They can be stored at 0-2°C, but for no more than two weeks; they can also be stored at 2-5°C for up to one week, and the plastic film packaging must be opened.
IV. Planting Depth and Density
For spring and summer planting, the planting depth requires the top of the bulb to be 8-10 cm below the soil surface, and 6-8 cm in winter. Planting density varies depending on the variety, bulb size and seasonal factors. In spring and summer, planting can be denser; in winter when sunlight is weaker, planting should be sparser.
The planting densities for different groups and sizes of lily bulbs (expressed as number of bulbs per sq m) are listed in the table below for reference:V. Post-Planting Management
1. Temperature: To obtain high-quality lily cut flowers, temperature control in the greenhouse is very important. Within 3-4 weeks after planting, the soil temperature must be maintained at a low 9-13°C to promote rooting. Too low a temperature will unnecessarily prolong the growth period, while temperatures above 15°C will lead to poor development of stem roots. These stem roots will quickly replace the basal roots to provide 90% of the plant's water and nutrients, so to obtain high-quality lilies, the development of stem roots is crucial. After the rooting period, the environmental temperature for Oriental lilies should be controlled at 15-25°C, and for Asiatic lilies and Lilium longiflorum (Easter lily) at 14-23°C. If daytime temperatures are too high, ventilation and shading should be used to lower the temperature; if nighttime temperatures reach 15-25°C, lily cut flower stems will be short, flower buds fewer, and quality reduced. At this time, (domestically) the method of spraying gibberellin solution on plants to increase stem length can be used. The specific dosage varies depending on the growth stage and environmental temperature; generally less in the early growth stage and more in the later stage. Domestic solar greenhouses in winter generally prolong the lily growth period and severely affect cut flower quality; temperature regulation measures should be increased.
2. Humidity: The soil moisture before planting should be such that it forms a ball when squeezed in the hand and crumbles when dropped. In hotter seasons, if conditions permit, water once with cold water before planting to lower the soil temperature. After planting, water again to ensure full contact between the soil and the bulbs, creating good conditions for stem root development. Subsequent watering should be based on maintaining soil moisture, i.e., a handful of soil forms a ball in the hand but no water comes out. Watering is generally done in the morning on sunny days. The relative humidity should be 80%-85%. Large fluctuations in relative humidity should be avoided, otherwise leaf scorch may occur.
3. Fertilizer: In the early stage of growth, flowering lily bulbs mainly consume nutrients stored in their own scales, so excessive base fertilizer is not needed before planting. One month after planting, some fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing depending on soil fertility. Lilies have a high demand for potassium. A compound fertilizer can be prepared at a ratio of N-
P2O5-K2O = 14:7:21. Apply 10 kg per mu each time, every 10-15 days, until 3 weeks before flower harvest. At the same time, attention should be paid to supplementing trace elements such as iron, boron and zinc.
4. Light: Light is an important condition for controlling quality, and lily flower bud development especially requires ample light. Insufficient light will cause poor plant growth and cause lily bud drop, lighter leaf and flower colors, and shortened vase life. When growing lilies in winter in northern China, due to the influence of glass or plastic film and other insulation materials, about 25-30% of sunlight is blocked. Therefore, in addition to keeping the glass and plastic film surfaces clean for good light transmission, some varieties also need supplemental lighting, which can be done with incandescent lamps. In good modern greenhouses, horticultural high-pressure sodium lamps should be used. Summer lily production should also avoid direct strong sunlight, generally using shade nets for shading. Asiatic and Lilium longiflorum (Easter lily) are shaded 40%, and Oriental lilies 50%.
5. Carbon dioxide: Carbon dioxide is beneficial to lily growth and flowering. On sunny mornings at 8-10 o'clock, in an unventilated greenhouse, apply carbon dioxide gas pills to increase the carbon dioxide content in the greenhouse. Other methods can also be used, for example: hang a plastic bucket every 15-20 m (the bucket height from the ground is 1 m), fill the bucket with 20% sodium bicarbonate (common household baking soda is sodium bicarbonate) solution, then gradually pour the prepared 10% dilute sulfuric acid solution into each plastic bucket in 3-4 portions. The sodium bicarbonate reacts with sulfuric acid to produce carbon dioxide gas. A solar greenhouse 60 m long and 7 m wide requires 1.7 kg of pure sodium bicarbonate and 1 kg of concentrated sulfuric acid (98% concentration).
VI. Harvesting and Storage of Lily Cut Flowers
1. Harvesting: Harvest after at least 2-3 flower buds have shown color. Harvesting too early affects flower color; flowers will appear pale and unattractive, and some buds will not open. Harvesting too late will make post-harvest handling and packaging difficult, petals will be soiled by pollen, and already-opened flowers will release ethylene, greatly shortening the vase life.
2. Handling: After harvesting, remove the lower 10 cm of leaves, then grade and bundle. A grade interval of 10 cm is appropriate. For lilies bundled in one bunch, the longest and shortest stems should ideally not differ by more than 5 cm, with flower tops aligned.
3. Storage: Bundled lilies should be immediately placed in clean, pre-chilled water, then placed in a cold storage room. The temperature of the water and cold storage room should ideally be 2-3°C.
VII. Common Pests and Diseases of Lilies and Their Control Methods
1. Lily fungal diseases
(1) Penicillium rot
Symptoms: During storage, white spots grow on rotting scale spots, then fluffy green-blue patches appear. After infection, even at low temperatures of -2°C, decay will gradually increase. The pathogen will eventually invade the basal plate of the bulb, rendering the bulb worthless or causing stunted plant growth. Although infected bulbs may look unhealthy, as long as the basal plate remains intact, plant growth during planting will not be affected. After planting, the infection will not transfer to the stem, nor will it infect the plant from the soil.
Control: Store bulbs at the recommended minimum temperature; do not plant bulbs whose basal plate has been damaged. Diseased bulbs must be soaked in 0.1% aqueous solution of captan, chlorothalonil, carbendazim or other fungicides for 30 minutes before planting. After planting, maintain appropriate soil temperature.
(2) Bulb and scale rot and stem diseases caused by Fusarium
Symptoms: Plants with bulb and scale rot grow very slowly, with pale green leaves. Underground, brown spots appear at the top of the scales, on the sides or where the scales connect to the basal plate. These spots gradually begin to rot. If the basal plate stem is infected, the entire bulb will rot. Fusarium-caused stem diseases are infections of the above-ground parts. The identifying sign is that basal leaves turn yellow before maturity, and the yellowed leaves turn brown and fall off. On the underground part of the stem, orange to dark brown spots appear, which then expand and eventually extend into the interior of the stem. The stem then rots, and finally the plant dies before maturity:
Control: a. Disinfect infected soil; b. Plant lightly or moderately infected bulbs as soon as possible, and keep soil temperature low.
(3) Rhizoctonia
Symptoms: If the infection is mild, it only affects the leaves in the soil and the green leaves below the young shoots, with sunken light brown spots appearing on the leaves. Generally, although plant growth is somewhat affected, the plant can still continue to grow. Severely infected plants have their upper growth hindered, and the white underground leaves as well as the lowest above-ground leaves will rot or wilt and fall off, leaving only brown scars on the stem:
Control: Use soil disinfectant to disinfect soil suspected of infection. After disinfection, ensure the soil is no longer infected. If the previous crop has shown infection, general soil disinfectants cannot be used; in that case, pre-treat the soil with a Rhizoctonia control agent before planting (thoroughly incorporated into the soil to a depth of 10 cm).
(4) Phytophthora
Symptoms: Foot rot (Phytophthora) of plants will hinder growth or cause sudden wilting. Soft rot occurs at the infected area at the stem base, becoming dark green to dark brown and spreading upward, with leaves turning yellow and discoloration beginning at the stem base. Similar soft rot infections often occur on the above-ground stem, causing stem damping-off or bending.
Control: Disinfect infected soil with general soil disinfectants; fungicides that control Pythium can also effectively control foot rot during cultivation; ensure good soil drainage; prevent crops from remaining wet for extended periods after watering; keep soil temperature as low as possible in summer.
(5) Pythium
Symptoms: These fungi attack both individual plants and plants in an area. Plants are stunted, lower leaves turn yellow, upper leaves become narrower, leaf color is paler, and plants often wilt. Plants affected by root rot have flower buds that shrivel. When plants are pulled up, transparent, light brown rot spots can be seen on the bulbs and root crown, or they have completely softened and rotted.
Control: Disinfect infected or suspected infected soil with general soil disinfectants; maintain low soil temperature in the early cultivation period, and adopt correct cultivation procedures throughout the cultivation period. Cultivation in boxes with potting soil and peat can control Pythium.
After the crop has emerged or when Pythium infection may have occurred, fungicides for controlling Pythium that can be easily sprayed onto the crop can be used, preferably in the evening. Spraying water for a few minutes (about three minutes) before applying the fungicide will significantly enhance the fungicide's effectiveness and can also rinse the crop clean.
2. Abnormal phenomena
(1) Leaf scorch
Symptoms: First, young leaves curl slightly inward. A few days later, yellow to white spots appear on the scorched leaves. If leaf scorch is mild, the plant can still continue normal growth, but if leaf scorch is severe, white spots can turn brown, and leaves bend at the damaged areas. In very severe cases, all leaves and young shoots will fall off, and the plant will not develop further. This is called the most severe scorch. Control: The soil should be moist before planting; it is best not to use susceptible varieties; planting depth should be appropriate, with 6-10 cm of soil above the bulb; during periods of increased sensitivity, avoid large differences in temperature and relative humidity in the greenhouse, and try to maintain relative humidity at around 75%.
(2) Bud drop and bud shriveling
Symptoms: Bud drop occurs when flower buds reach 1-2 cm. The bud color turns pale green, and at the same time, the pedicel connecting to the stem shortens, after which the bud falls off. In spring, lower buds are affected first, while in autumn, upper buds will drop first.
Control: Do not cultivate varieties prone to bud drop in poorly lit environments. To prevent bud shriveling, bulbs must not dry out during cultivation. Ensure good root systems of the bulbs and let them grow under conditions as suitable as possible, with particular attention to light and transpiration.
★How to Grow Potted Lilies
How to grow potted lilies is something many flower enthusiasts who want to grow lilies themselves want to know. Many articles online are very theoretical, leaving flower enthusiasts feeling uncertain. So let us use actual cases to explain in detail how to grow potted lilies.
First, a brief introduction: Lilies are perennial herbaceous bulbous plants of the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae, mainly distributed in temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere such as eastern Asia, Europe and North America. Over a hundred varieties have been discovered worldwide. China is their most important place of origin, with over fifty native species, and is the natural distribution center of the genus Lilium.
I. Materials needed for planting lilies are as follows:
1. Soil: Lilies are not very demanding about soil, as long as it does not waterlog. General garden soil works, and of course nutrient soil is even better. For the particular, peat is also fine.
2. Pot: This needs attention. Lily roots are relatively developed, so a relatively deep and large pot is suitable. Small pots are not suitable! In the case below, a 2-gallon pot is used.
3. Location choice: Some flower enthusiasts may ask if a balcony without light is okay, or if they can plant on a rooftop terrace. Here it should be noted that lilies prefer cool, humid environments. Locations with ample sunlight and slightly shaded environments are more suitable for lilies. They are averse to drought and intense heat, and their cold hardiness is somewhat poor. The growth and flowering temperature for lilies is 16-24°C. Below 5°C or above 30°C, growth almost stops. Plants only grow normally above 10°C, and growth stalls again above 25°C. If the nighttime temperature in winter stays below 5°C for 5-7 consecutive days, flower bud differentiation and flower bud development will be severely affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers.
II. First, a visual treat
The bulbs in the picture below are lily bulbs just received a few days ago. They look pretty good, right! I got five in total and won't post them one by one. Hundreds of flower enthusiasts on the forum have grouped together to buy them!III. Planting Process
First: I planned to divide my 5 bulbs into 2 flower pots. I first checked the bulb colors. Siberia has 2 (this is because another variety was detained by customs and these were substitutes), which are white. Marlon is pink. Yelloween is yellow, and Tiber is also pink. I plan to plant Siberia and Marlon in white flower pots, and the other three in 2+ pots, so they will look spectacular when blooming.
Second: First clean the flower pots, lay breathable coarse coal cinders at the bottom, and cover with soil.
Third: Sprinkle some phosphate fertilizer on the soil (bone meal can also be used as a substitute). If no bone meal is available, chicken manure can also be used as a substitute to ensure flowering nutrition.
Fourth: Cover with soil again. After covering, sprinkle carbendazim. (I carefully checked the root bulbs and found no mold. Flower enthusiasts who receive diseased root bulbs can soak the root bulbs in carbendazim before planting.)
Fifth: Cover with more soil and place the root bulbs. You can use scissors to cut off dried roots. Cover with soil, generally level with the upper sprout of the root bulb. Leave some distance between the soil surface and the pot rim for future filling. This depth is not enough.
Sixth: Water thoroughly and place in an open, cool, shaded area.IV. Troubleshooting During the Planting Process
Overall, lilies are very easy to grow. As long as the bulbs are bought correctly, the flowering survival rate is almost 100%. The growth period varies by variety, generally around 90-150 days.
1. How many lilies can be planted in one pot
It depends on the size of the pot. For a 2-gallon pot with a diameter of about 25 cm, planting 1-3 is fine!
2. Can lilies rebloom
Whether lilies rebloom mainly depends on the first year of planting. If the first year of planting is good, reblooming in the second year is no problem.
3. Are lilies very fragrant
Different lily varieties have different fragrance intensities. Whether a specific one is fragrant can be determined by the variety description at the time of purchase.
★Lily Flower Cultivation Techniques
Authors: Zhu Yunyi, Yang Ming
Lily is a bulbous herbaceous plant of the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae. Lily stems are upright and elegant, leaves are emerald green, flower shapes are unique, flowers are large and colorful, and the colors are elegant. Lilies symbolize a harmonious union lasting a hundred years and are very endearing. They are currently one of the bulbous flowers widely cultivated at home and abroad. Domestic introduction and cultivation of lilies are gradually expanding, and market sales are increasingly active.
I. Morphological Characteristics
Lilies are perennial herbaceous plants. The seed bulb is a non-tunicate bulb, spherical in shape, pale white, formed by the aggregation of several fleshy, thick, ovate-spatulate scales. The stem is upright; underground stem nodes have stem roots; the stem is cylindrical or angular-columnar; the above-ground stem is upright and robust, green and smooth, with a stem diameter of 3-10 mm and a plant height of 70-200 cm. Leaves are scattered or alternate, sessile, lanceolate to elliptic-lanceolate, entire, with a total of over 100 leaves. Flowers are solitary in several leaf axils at the top of the stem, with 1-10 flowers. Flowers are large, trumpet-shaped, with different colors and fragrances depending on the variety.
II. Environmental Requirements
1. Temperature. Lilies prefer warm and sunny environments, are relatively cold-tolerant, and fear high temperatures, strong light and high humidity. The optimal growth temperature for lilies is 15-25°C. Below 10°C, growth is slow. Above 30°C, growth is poor and leaf burn occurs. During growth, daytime temperatures of 21-23°C and nighttime temperatures of 15-17°C are best. However, seed bulbs have a dormant period and must be stored at 3-7°C for 4-6 weeks to break dormancy before planting and sprouting.
2. Light. Lilies prefer soft light and can also tolerate strong light and partial shade. Insufficient light will cause flower bud drop. Ample light produces robust, compact plants with vivid flowers. Lilies are long-day plants; long light exposure promotes earlier flowering, and short light exposure delays flowering.
3. Water. When planting lily bulbs, fill the furrows with water to 3/4 to allow water to fully penetrate the bed surface. When water is lacking afterward, irrigate with running water, maintaining soil moisture at all times. This can improve the sprouting rate of bulbs, produce uniform sprouts, and benefit stem and leaf growth.
4. Nutrients. Lilies are bulbous cut flower plants that prefer phosphorus and potassium and avoid excessive nitrogen. Sufficient phosphorus and potassium help improve flower quality and bulb formation and plumpness. Excessive nitrogen is detrimental to flower and bulb formation, resulting in poor and weak flower quality. Fertilization should be mainly organic fertilizer, primarily phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, with nitrogen as a supplement.
III. Cultivation Techniques
1. Reasonable arrangement of planting periods. At present, lilies are planted in Hunan, Sichuan, Henan, Jiangsu, Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangxi, Zhejiang and Guangdong in China. We should make full use of the unique winter climate conditions in the south, scheduling the harvest period from late December to May 1 to avoid competing with lilies grown in other provinces for the market, striving for a good price and greater income and better economic benefits. Lilies generally take 80-130 days from planting to harvest and market. Early planting (e.g., before the Autumn Equinox) means high temperatures, long daylight and strong light, shortening the time from planting to harvest. Late planting (e.g., after Cold Dew) means low temperatures, short daylight and weak light, extending the time from planting to harvest. If they are to be marketed at Christmas, they should be planted in mid-to-late September; for Spring Festival marketing, plant in mid-to-late October.
2. Site selection, fine land preparation, and sufficient base fertilizer. Choose plots with deep soil, loose and fertile texture, high terrain and good drainage for planting. Plots with partial shade and slightly acidic soil are even better for growing lilies. Lilies are averse to continuous cropping; plots previously planted with peppers, eggplants and other crops should not be selected. Leguminous or gramineous crops are preferable as previous crops.
3. Build frames and cover with shade nets for shading. To meet the light, temperature and humidity requirements of lilies during growth, and because lilies prefer soft light (partial shade) and fear high temperatures and strong light, frames should be built and shade nets covered before the bulbs sprout after the land is prepared and beds are made. Shade nets with 70-80% shading are best. For planting from April to August, add an extra layer of shade net to reduce field temperature and light intensity, increase field humidity, avoid or reduce high-temperature and strong-light damage to plant leaves, and promote leaf growth. However, when the daytime maximum temperature drops to 26°C (generally in early December), the shade net should be removed to increase light intensity and promote leaf growth. When the average temperature falls below 10°C, cover with nylon film again to increase temperature and preserve moisture, ensuring normal lily growth and flowering and harvest as expected.
4. Reasonable dense planting. Since lilies tolerate partial shade, they can be planted more densely on the basis of sufficient base fertilizer. Generally, 12,000-18,000 bulbs can be planted per mu, with a plant-row spacing of 15-20 x 10-15 cm, and a planting depth of 10 cm (at least the height of 3 bulbs) to prevent sunlight from burning the root system. After planting, spray butachlor immediately to control early weeds in the field.
5. Field management. After full sprouting, before seedlings reach 20 cm, in combination with intertillage and weeding, apply 500 kg of human and animal manure and 10 kg of superphosphate per mu, or apply 10-15 kg of high-quality compound fertilizer (containing 15% each of nitrogen, P2O5 and K2O) plus 5 kg of urea. The fertilizer concentration should be dilute rather than concentrated; too high a concentration easily damages roots and inhibits growth. Apply frequently and lightly, once every 8-10 days. When applying top dressing, avoid the fertilizer solution directly contacting the bulbs and stems to prevent bulb and stem rot. If the fertilizer solution splashes onto the leaves, spray clean water immediately after applying the fertilizer solution to rinse it off the leaves to avoid leaf and plant damage. However, when the winter temperature drops below 8°C, fertilization should be stopped and resumed when the temperature rises. After lilies sprout, deep tillage for weeding should no longer be done to avoid damaging the root system. Weeds should be pulled as soon as they appear to prevent weed damage.
6. Water management. Since lilies prefer moisture, fear waterlogging and are averse to drought, ditches should be cleaned regularly to drain accumulated water on rainy days, and irrigation should be done during drought to maintain moisture, ensuring that footprints remain after walking through the furrow (but feet do not sink), the bed surface topsoil does not turn white, the topsoil between beds forms a ball when grasped by hand, and a mud ball released from one meter above the ground falls apart upon landing.
7. Timely pest and disease control. Lilies have relatively few pests and diseases. The main diseases include anthracnose, gray mold, damping-off, root rot and bulb rot. Anthracnose can be controlled with chlorothalonil, Score (difenoconazole), Rydomil or anthracnose fungicides. Gray mold can be controlled with mancozeb, procymidone, 50% iprodione, chlorothalonil or 1% Bordeaux mixture. For damping-off, first remove diseased plants, then control with 1% Bordeaux mixture, chlorothalonil or thiram. For root rot and bulb rot, mix seeds with 0.5% quintozene before planting to prevent disease occurrence. In the early stage of disease, drench or spray with 50% amobam 300-500 times dilution. For lily disease control, spray once every 7-10 days, for 2-3 consecutive sprays. The main pests include aphids and white grubs. Aphids and white grubs often gather on tender leaves and flower buds to suck sap, causing plant stunting and poor growth. They can be controlled with fenvalerate, omethoate, imidacloprid or other insecticides. When controlling pests and diseases, it is best to add some foliar fertilizer, which both controls pests and diseases and promotes leaf growth.
8. Timely harvest of seed bulbs. When the underground bulbs enlarge, become plump and full, and the above-ground leaves yellow or even dry and fall off, the bulbs can be harvested. Keep the root system on harvested bulbs, remove loose soil, grade and pile them, then pack and place in cold storage for low-temperature treatment.
★Cultivation Techniques for Oriental Lilies
With the improvement of people's living standards, flower sales are increasing. In 2007, we introduced Oriental lilies in small quantities and achieved success in cultivation. The cultivation techniques are described below:
1. Land preparation
Deeply plow the soil 30 cm, apply 2-3 m3 of peat or decomposed larch pine needles, 3-5 kg of ferrous sulfate, and 500-1000 kg of organic fertilizer such as puffed chicken manure per 667 sq m to make the soil pH slightly acidic at 6-6.5; add 1.5-2.5 kg of thiram or 2000-3000 ml of soil fungicide for disinfection.
2. Bed making
Make raised beds 20 cm high and 80-100 cm wide, with 40 cm walkways between beds, and length depending on the site.
3. Planting
The planting time should be determined by two indicators: the flower supply time and the variety's growth cycle. Be sure to use bulbs whose dormancy has passed. The dormancy period varies by variety. Generally, after the leaves turn yellow and bulbs are lifted, they can break dormancy in 80-120 days in an environment of 0-4°C. For bulb disinfection, mix with carbendazim at 5-10 g/kg, or soak in 2% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 10 minutes before planting. When planting, first pull aside about 8 cm of topsoil from the bed surface to one side, then use a nail board or tree root cut to the measured size to punch holes at set distances. Generally, the density for medium-sized bulbs is 13 cm x 13 cm in spring and autumn; increase by 1 cm for large bulbs and decrease by 1 cm for small bulbs. In winter, spacing should be slightly larger, and in summer, denser. Generally, about 20,000 bulbs are planted per 667 sq m. After punching holes, place the bulbs on the holes, then fill back the soil pulled aside from the bed surface and rake level.
4. Water management
After planting, water thoroughly with drip irrigation or sprinkler irrigation. Except in summer, flood irrigation is prohibited. Afterward, water whenever the seedbed looks dry, until it connects with the moist lower soil. Avoid waterlogging to prevent root rot. In extremely dry weather, spray water on the leaves to maintain relative air humidity at around 70%.
5. Temperature management
From planting to sprouting, bulbs take 20-30 days. During this period, a temperature of around 12°C is appropriate to facilitate rooting. After sprouting, raise the temperature, otherwise plants are susceptible to various diseases. Therefore, winter production requires heating with oil furnaces or small boilers, and summer requires pulling shade nets or covering the ground with grass to lower the temperature.
6. Light management
When planting lilies in winter, try to choose day-neutral lilies rather than long-day lilies, while in spring, summer and autumn, long-day varieties are also acceptable. Lilies prefer light and do not tolerate shade. Supplemental lighting in winter produces better growth. If not supplementing light, open straw curtains as early as possible and cover them late to extend light duration. In summer, if a 30% shading shade net can be used to block some strong light, it will help lilies grow faster and produce larger flowers.
7. Nutrition management
After the seedling's stem leaves unfold, begin top dressing. Apply chemical fertilizer once every 10-15 days, applying 4-5 kg each of diammonium phosphate and potassium nitrate per 667 sq m as a mixed application. When the plant height reaches 60 cm, spray 2%-3% monopotassium phosphate on the leaves every 7-10 days. If the overall leaves turn yellow, spray 0.5% urea; if small leaves turn yellow, spray 0.1% ferrous sulfate, along with copper, zinc and other trace fertilizers. When flower buds reach 6 cm in length, stop top dressing.
8. Pest and disease control
The main diseases of lilies include black spot, gray mold and rust, which can be controlled by spraying 25% carbendazim wettable powder 500 times dilution. Pests include white grubs and aphids, which can be controlled by spraying 25% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate 1000 times dilution.
★Open-Field Cultivation Techniques for Lilies
Open-field cultivation is also a common production method for cut flower lilies. It has the advantages of low production cost and simple cultivation management, but the disadvantages of open-field cultivation are also obvious: the flowering period is not easily controlled, and low product quality are the main factors affecting open-field production of cut flower lilies.
1. Land selection
For open-field lily cultivation, land with high and well-drained terrain, good drainage and loose soil should be selected. High-altitude cool mountainous areas, lakeside and riverside areas, and peninsula areas are ideal locations for growing lilies. Northwestern Yunnan, Xichang in Sichuan, the Qinba Mountains in Shaanxi, Anshan in Liaoning, and Lanzhou in Gansu in China can all serve as bases for open-field production of cut flower lilies.
Soil improvement
Generally speaking, the soil used for lily flower production does not occupy as vast an area as that for grain crops. If the soil texture is unsuitable, local soil replacement can be used to create a suitable soil environment. When locally replacing soil for a lily plot, first dig out the original soil from the rows where lilies are to be planted, and add soft, good soil media. So-called soil media refer to artificially prepared materials that replace soil. Commonly used soil media include pine needle soil, peat, fermented sawdust, vermiculite and perlite. Mix these materials with soil in a certain proportion and fill them into the planting furrows for lilies, then plant the lilies. In addition, attention should be paid to measuring the soil pH of the cultivation site.
How to improve soil pH: 6 weeks before planting, take soil samples for analysis to determine salt and oxide content, pH and nutrient content. If the salt content and chlorine content exceed standards, large amounts of irrigation water must be used to dilute the salts in the soil. Maintaining the correct pH helps lily roots absorb nutrients from the soil. Applying peat soil mixed with topsoil can lower pH, and using ammonium fertilizer and urea can also lower pH. In addition, mixing a small amount of sulfur powder or ferrous sulfate into the soil can also help lower soil pH. If the soil pH is too low, mix lime-containing compounds or magnesium lime with the soil before planting. After using lime, wait at least 1 week before planting. During the growth stage, it is best to use nitrate nitrogen fertilizer, which can raise pH.
2. Crop rotation
To prevent the massive occurrence of lily pests and diseases, crop rotation should be implemented. Before planting, a unified plan should be made for the land, and all plots planted with cut flower lilies should be rotated every year. During rotation, the previous crop should not be bulbous flowers of the Liliaceae or Amaryllidaceae families. Leguminous plants are most suitable.
Base fertilizer
The base fertilizer applied before planting lilies is generally organic fertilizer with long-lasting effects. There are two ways to prepare the base fertilizer: one is to mix 1/3 of various humus fertilizers (organic fertilizer made from a mixture of decomposed leaf mold, compost, peat, cake fertilizer, etc.) into the soil to form a 30cm deep trench, first spread the above mixed soil in the trench, and then plant the lilies. Lilies planted in this mixed soil generally grow better. The mixed soil not only improves the soil but also achieves the purpose of applying base fertilizer.
3. Planting
Planting period: Lilies grown in open fields are mostly planted in autumn, while in cold regions spring planting is used.
Taking the climate conditions of Beijing as an example, the lowest temperature in January in winter is generally 8-15°C, and most cut-flower lilies can overwinter in the open field. Summer is relatively hot, with the highest temperature in July reaching 33-36°C. Therefore, lilies are in a semi-dormant period during this time. According to Beijing's climate characteristics, lilies can be planted in autumn or spring. Autumn planting is generally carried out in September-October when the temperature drops noticeably. Lilies planted in autumn have well-developed root systems and robust plant growth, and produce more flowers the following year. Spring planting is generally carried out in March-April when the temperature begins to rise. They sprout in April-May, and bolt and form buds in May-June. From mid-June to the end of July is the peak flowering season for open-field cut-flower lilies.
The flowering period of autumn-planted lilies and spring-planted lilies differs little, but the stem height and flower count of spring-planted lilies are inferior to those of autumn-planted lilies.
Topdressing
For open-field cultivation of lilies, topdressing should be carried out during the early growth stage, late growth stage and bud stage respectively. In the early growth stage, apply 37.5kg of diammonium phosphate and 75kg of urea per hectare; in the late growth stage, apply 75kg of diammonium phosphate and 22.5kg of potassium dihydrogen phosphate per hectare. The fertilization method is to dissolve the above fertilizers in water and pour. In the bud stage, apply 22.5kg of potassium sulfate, 30kg of potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.3kg of boric acid per hectare, sprayed on the leaves at 0.1%.
Irrigation
Lilies grown in open fields can obtain part of their water from natural rainfall, but because it is often not timely, it is far from meeting the needs of normal plant growth and development, especially in dry seasons, when timely irrigation is even more important. For open-field cultivation of lilies, methods such as flood irrigation, sprinkler irrigation and drip irrigation can be chosen according to local conditions. Flood irrigation is to introduce water directly onto the bed surface, which causes soil compaction. Sprinkler irrigation distributes water evenly and can also increase air humidity. Drip irrigation uses a low-pressure pipe system to make irrigation water into droplets, slowly and continuously infiltrating the soil within the range of the plant's root activity. Modern cut-flower cultivation often combines sprinkler irrigation and drip irrigation, with sprinkler irrigation creating an air humidity environment suitable for plant growth, and drip irrigation supplying the water needed for the plant's root activity. The amount, frequency and timing of irrigation often vary with the season, soil texture and cultivated variety. As for the amount of water per irrigation, the principle should be to water thoroughly and moderately. In summer, temperatures are high and evaporation is great, so irrigation should be more frequent; in autumn and early [spring], water demand is low, so watering should be minimized, and one freezing-water irrigation should be given before the soil freezes. Clay soil should be irrigated less frequently, while sandy soil should be irrigated more frequently. During the day, in summer, irrigation should be done in the morning and evening, when the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is relatively small, so as not to affect root activity.
4. Cultivation and Weeding
In open-field cultivation of lilies, the soil tends to become compacted after rain or watering, which is not conducive to root growth. In addition, because weeds have strong reproductive capacity, they grow together with lily plants and compete for water, nutrients, sunlight and space, and can also cause pest and disease problems in lily plants. Therefore, timely cultivation and weeding are necessary to create a good living environment for the growth of lily plants.
Cultivation should be carried out in combination with loosening the soil after irrigation. The depth of cultivation should be: shallow hoeing at the seedling stage to prevent root damage; shallow hoeing near the plants, and deep hoeing in the rows away from the plants. When the lilies grow luxuriantly and the field rows close, there is no need to loosen the soil anymore.
Weeding should be carried out as early as possible at the initial stage of weed occurrence, and must be completely cleared before the weeds set seed. As for weeding methods, small areas are mainly manually weeded, while large areas can use mechanical weeding or chemical weeding.
5. Netting and Staking
Lilies grown in open fields are often vulnerable to adverse weather such as wind, rain and hail, so netting and staking must be done in time to prevent the plants from lodging.
6. Topdressing
Lily is a potassium-loving crop. According to nutrient analysis of Yixing lily plants at various growth stages, K2O content is the highest in all cases. The average content in aboveground stems and leaves at various growth stages is 3.76%, which is 5.55 times the content of K2O5 and 1.59 times the N content. The average K2O content in underground bulbs at various growth stages is 2.16%, which is 4.48 times the content of K20 and 1.59 times the N content. The seedling stage is the period of highest K2O content among all growth stages, with 4.70% in stems and leaves and 2.88% in bulbs. As for the proportions of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium contained in lily plants at various growth stages, the periods of highest K2O proportion in both aboveground stems and leaves and bulbs are the middle and late growth stages of the lily, namely the bulbil harvest period and the full flowering period (the beginning of decline of aboveground stems and leaves). The proportions of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in aboveground stems and leaves are 1:0.20:1.98 and 1:0.22:2.22 respectively; the proportions of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in bulbs are 1:0.41:1.79 and 1:0.34:1.66. The traditional cultivation of Yixing lily involves covering with rice straw and applying organic fertilizers such as pig manure and cake fertilizer, which can supply large amounts of potassium. Generally, about 450kg of dry rice straw is covered per mu. Experiments have shown that if rice straw is not covered, the yield decreases by 14.48%. Increasing potassium fertilizer for lilies can promote root development during overwintering and seedling-stage growth, and meet the peak potassium demand of lily plants in the middle and late stages. Potassium can promote the synthesis and transport of carbohydrates in the crop. When potassium supply is sufficient, the content of lignin, cellulose and starch in the lily plant increases, and the carbohydrates formed by photosynthesis are quickly transported to the bulb, promoting bulb expansion. Experiments show that applying 15kg, 10kg of potassium sulfate and 75kg of plant ash per mu generally increases yield by 10% compared with the control. Among them, the yield with plant ash ranks first. In potassium-deficient fields, the yield increase from potassium fertilizer is even more significant, with the highest increase reaching 54.29%, and each kilogram of potassium sulfate can increase lily yield by 32.76kg. While lilies emerge, new daughter bulbs also differentiate and develop in the heart buds of the seed bulbs, so it is necessary to promote strong seedlings and early growth in the early stage. Through repeated experiments, the fertilizer management of lilies should adhere to the principle of "heavy at the front, controlled in the middle, supplemented at the end" and the fertilization method of two "focuses", namely focusing on organic fertilizer, applied at planting time and before emergence, accounting for more than 70% of the total fertilizer application. Generally, the base fertilizer per mu includes about 450kg of dry rice straw cover, 2.5 tons of high-quality pig manure, 50-75kg of decomposed cake fertilizer, 30kg of standard nitrogen fertilizer, 20-30kg of phosphate fertilizer, and 15-20kg of potassium fertilizer. When earthing up before emergence, apply 50kg of cake fertilizer, 15kg of standard nitrogen fertilizer, 10kg of phosphate fertilizer and 15kg of potassium fertilizer per mu (or 30-40kg of three-element compound fertilizer alone). If there is no potassium fertilizer, 100kg of plant ash can be applied instead. For Yixing lily with a yield of more than 1000kg per mu, the total fertilizer application is 42.7kg of pure nitrogen, 514.1kg of K2O and 56.2kg of K2O, with a nitrogen:phosphorus:potassium ratio of 1:0.33:1.32. Through experiments with different amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium chemical fertilizers, it is shown that the optimal application rate of chemical nitrogen fertilizer is 6kg of K2O5 per mu, and chemical potassium K2O 7.5-22.5kg. The suitable soil pH for lily growth is 5.7-6.3. The soil in the Taihu Lake area is generally neutral to slightly acidic, with pH between 6.5 and 5.0. The results of experiments with different types of phosphate fertilizer show that calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer is more effective than superphosphate. Lily bulbs are tender, and under the influence of the free acid in superphosphate, the rate of lily rot and missing plants increases, and diseases are more severe, with the disease incidence reaching as high as 60% and the disease index as high as 52.5%, reducing yield by 4.6% compared with applying calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer, and the bulb color is also poor. On slightly alkaline soil with pH above 7.5, applying superphosphate can appropriately adjust the soil pH, which is beneficial to lily growth.
★ Cultivation of Oriental Lilies
Oriental lilies, namely Lilium Oriental Hybrids, are one of the ten most popular flowers in the world today. Because of their beautiful flower shape, bright colors and rich fragrance, they are ideal materials for gift bouquets, flower baskets and artistic flower arrangements. Since China's reform and opening up, they have developed rapidly. Especially in recent years, due to the sharp increase in flower consumption in China, their planting area has continued to expand, and Oriental lilies have become an indispensable category among fresh flowers. Their cultivation techniques are introduced as follows:
I. Site selection, bed preparation and disinfection
(1) Site selection. Because Oriental lily bulbs degenerate quickly and have strict requirements for the cultivation environment, suitable planting areas are hard to find, so the selection of the planting site is also of utmost importance. Oriental lilies prefer cool, humid climates and semi-shaded environments. The soil should be deep, loose, well-drained, rich in humus and slightly acidic.
(2) Bed preparation. The bed surface is generally prepared to a width of 1-1.2 meters and a height of 25-30 centimeters, with a ditch width of 40 centimeters between beds. Before preparing the beds, apply 1-1.3 tons of humus soil or pig manure to each simple greenhouse (30 meters €?.5 meters), sprinkle 2 kilograms of carbofuran or phoxim (used to kill underground pests), water to loosen the soil and mix it thoroughly.
(3) Disinfection. Because Oriental lilies are highly susceptible to stem rot, phytophthora blight, leaf blight and gray mold, prevention should be the main approach, starting with the soil. Commonly used methods include steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. a. Steam disinfection: bury heat-resistant plastic pipes with small holes 30 centimeters below the bed surface, cover the bed surface with film, then introduce steam and fumigate continuously for 1 hour. b. Chemical disinfection: generally use 40% formalin diluted into a 1:50 solution and splash it on the bed surface at a rate of 25-30 kg/M, then cover with plastic film for 2 days, then uncover the film and air-dry for 10 days. Planting can only be done after the chemical vapor has completely dissipated.
II. Cultivation management
(1) Treatment of bulbs. Before planting, pick the bulbs out of the bulb boxes. Handle them gently to prevent breaking the sprouts. At the same time, check the quality of the bulbs and remove unqualified bulbs such as those with broken sprouts or rot, or with rotten scales or basal plates. Soak the bulbs in a 500-800 times solution of fungicides such as thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil or carbendazim for 15-20 minutes.
(2) Planting time. In order to bloom during the Spring Festival and Valentine's Day, planting should generally be done in mid-October and early November, and it is best to plant before 10 o'clock in the morning or after 4 o'clock in the afternoon.
(3) Planting density and depth. Generally, the plant spacing is 10-15 centimeters and the row spacing is 15-18 centimeters; as for depth, the planting depth is about 6-8 centimeters above the sprout point. After planting, a layer of wood chaff and fallen leaves should be covered on the surface, and a shade net should be put up, while watering thoroughly.
(4) Good labeling and recording. After planting, labels should also be made, noting the specifications and planting date. Hang two thermohygrometers in each greenhouse, one at the front and one in the middle, and keep a record book. Observe the thermohygrometers three times a day and keep good records.
(5) Precautions
1. The sprout point of the planted bulb should be vertical and pointing upward from the ground.
2. The soil temperature should be lowered before planting.
3. The Oriental lilies we plant in Guangxi are generally air-freighted from Kunming and have already been thawed, so they should be planted as soon as possible, minimizing the time left in the open field, and preferably planted within two days.
4. After the seedlings grow 2 centimeters above the ground, crooked seedlings should be straightened in time. This critical period must be strictly grasped, because if this opportunity is missed, straightening the seedlings later can easily damage the root system, and not straightening them will seriously affect the survival quality of the Oriental lilies.
(6) Water and fertilizer management. When planting Oriental lilies, sprinkle 5 kilograms of superphosphate in each greenhouse. Then, from planting to emergence, generally no fertilizer is applied, but the soil should be kept moist, to the extent that no water seeps out when the soil is held in the hand, avoiding excessive dryness or waterlogging. Especially during the rooting period and harvest period, the water demand is relatively large, and it must not be too dry. When the seedlings grow to 10-15 centimeters, start applying fertilizer for the first time, then apply once a week, adhering to the principle of light fertilizer applied frequently. At the same time, select several representative plants of each specification in each greenhouse and measure their height, leaf length and width, and number of leaves every three days, and keep good records, so as to adjust and determine the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer for the next application. Generally, in the early and middle stages, apply more compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen, phosphorus and calcium, with a ratio of 10:15:8, to promote seedling growth and rooting; in the middle and late stages, focus more on compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, with a ratio of 8:10:20, to help increase the hardness of the stems; spray potassium dihydrogen phosphate once every 10 days at a concentration of 0.1%. At the same time, pay attention to watering, avoid excessive dryness or waterlogging, and maintain air humidity at 50%-80%.
Precautions: It is strictly forbidden to pour fertilizer onto the leaves. If fertilizer is accidentally poured onto the leaves, rinse quickly with clean water to avoid burning the leaves and affecting quality.
(7) Temperature management. The temperature must not exceed 30°C at the highest and must not be lower than 5°C at the lowest. The most suitable soil temperature is 12°C-15°C. If it exceeds 18°C or is lower than 10°C, it is unfavorable to the roots. After rooting, the temperature can be increased, maintaining 18-25°C during the day and 12-18°C at night. Too high during the day will reduce plant height, decrease the number of flower buds per stem, and produce a large number of blind flowers. If the night temperature is lower than 12°C, it will cause bud drop or leaf yellowing, reducing ornamental value.
(8) Light management. The development of Oriental lily flower buds especially requires sufficient light conditions, but excessively high temperatures will burn the leaves and reduce the ornamental effect.
(9) Netting and staking. In addition to the color, shape and petal texture of the flowers themselves, the height standard of Oriental lilies also requires upright, straight stems. Oriental lilies are strongly phototropic, and those cultivated in winter often lean southward and lodge, so netting and staking must be done in time. According to the bulb specifications, for large bulbs, the first staking and netting is done when they grow to 20 centimeters, and the second when they grow to 45-50 centimeters; for small bulbs, the first staking and netting is done when they grow to 15 centimeters, and the second when they grow to 40-45 centimeters.
(10) Prevention and control of pests and diseases. Oriental lilies are prone to phytophthora blight, gray mold and stem blight. a. Pay attention to ventilation in the greenhouse and keep it clean; b. At the initial stage of disease, immediately remove diseased plants, spray 1% Bordeaux mixture and 65% zineb 600 times solution, or use 800-1000 times solution of bactericidal agents (such as thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, agricultural streptomycin for bacteria, etc.) to drench the roots or spray; c. Usually focus on prevention, spraying bactericidal agents once every 10-15 days. D. Pests are generally aphids, which can be prevented with omethoate and derris extract, etc. After the disease occurs, spray two or three times continuously. Pay special attention not to use dichlorvos during the flowering period, otherwise it will damage the petals. Therefore, when aphids appear on the corolla, use deltamethrin or pyrethrum for control.
III. Harvesting
For those with 5-10 flower heads, 2 buds must be colored; for those with fewer than 5 flower heads, at least one bud must be colored before harvesting. The best harvest time is in the morning, which can reduce water loss and prevent the buds from wilting easily. After harvesting, insert them into clean water containing preservative as soon as possible to absorb water.