Clivia seed planting method: master the flowering period for beautiful and lush blooms

When planting Clivia, many people fail to get the depth right, which leads to root rot. In fact, after choosing loose soil, place the Clivia at a depth of about 2 cm - not too deep. If it is too deep, the roots will turn black and may even fail to take root properly.

Also, a newly planted Clivia should not be placed outdoors. Keep it in a cool, shaded spot indoors for about half a month so it can properly adjust. Clivia naturally prefers cool, ventilated places, so do not expose it to strong sun. Sunburn will damage it, and it will be very difficult for new young shoots to grow again, so this point is very important.

Watering must also be controlled well. Many people water their flowers every day when growing them. If Clivia is watered every day, it cannot grow normally - it is naturally a plant that does not like too much water. So watering once every 3-5 days is enough to supply Clivia's normal growth. Before each watering, check inside the pot; if it is not especially dry, there is no problem.

Temperature control is also very important. In winter, many places are very cold. Clivia should be kept indoors, but not too hot. Many people in the north worry that Clivia will be cold and place it next to the radiator. This is also incorrect. Just keep it at around 22°C and Clivia can grow normally.

As Clivia grows, the nutrients in the soil may not be enough to supply it. At such times, nutrient solution should be applied so that Clivia's growth is not affected. Only normal growth will keep the flowering period from being affected. After planting, it can bloom normally in the winter of the second year.

Introduction to soil cultivation methods and water cultivation techniques for Clivia

Clivia is native to the tropical regions of southern Africa and grows beneath trees, so it fears heat and cannot tolerate cold. It likes a semi-shaded and humid environment and fears strong direct sunlight. The optimal temperature for growth is between 18-28°C; below 10°C or above 30°C, growth is inhibited. Clivia likes ventilated environments and prefers deep, fertile, loose soil. It is suitable for growing in loose, fertile, slightly acidic organic soil. Clivia is a famous greenhouse flower and is suitable for indoor cultivation. The cultivation methods for Clivia are introduced as follows:

Propagation methods for Clivia

The commonly used propagation methods for Clivia are seed sowing propagation and division propagation.

1. Seed sowing propagation method

The pollination method is: 2-3 days after the flower is split open, when the flower bud is mature and the stigma secretes sticky fluid, this is the time for pollination. When pollinating, use a new brush to dip up the pollen from the stamens and gently shake it onto the stigma of the pistil. To increase the seed-setting rate, pollinate once between 9-10 am and once between 2-3 pm, and the seeds can mature after about 8-9 months. When the fruit skin gradually changes from green to dark purple, the fruit spike can be cut off, and after 10-20 days the seeds can be peeled out. Before sowing, soak the seeds in warm water at 30-35°C for 20-30 minutes, then take them out and air-dry for 1-2 hours (at this time, if they can be soaked in 10% sodium phosphate solution for 20-30 minutes, then taken out, washed, and soaked in clean water for 10-15 hours, so much the better), and then they can be sown into the culture soil. After sowing, place the flower pot in an environment at room temperature 20-25°C and humidity around 90%, and the radicle will sprout in about 1-2 weeks.

Before carrying out seed sowing propagation, first prepare the culture soil. Many materials can be used to make culture soil, but one that is relatively easy to obtain is loose soil taken from the surface layer of woodland with sufficient humus, mixed with 1/3 clean fine sandy soil.

2. Division propagation method

Asexual propagation of flowers includes cuttings, division, layering, grafting and other methods, but the asexual propagation of Clivia generally uses only the division method, and this method is even more commonly used for Clivia nobilis. To propagate by division, first do several preparation tasks:

① For household pot cultivation, prepare a flower pot. It is best to use a clay pot; do not buy porcelain or ceramic ones just for the sake of a beautiful pot surface, because they have poor breathability and are not conducive to the plant's development and growth.

② Prepare the medium soil, and it is best to disinfect it. If using humus soil mixed with fine sand, the humus soil should be sprayed and disinfected with a 1000-2000 times aqueous solution of potassium permanganate; the fine river sand should also be scalded and disinfected with boiling water to avoid the seedlings being infected by pathogens and rotting.

③ Prepare a small amount of charcoal powder to apply to the wound to absorb moisture and prevent rot.

④ Sharpen the cutting knife, and finally quickly dry-grind it (without adding water) on a whetstone several dozen times, so that the blade becomes highly heated in order to kill pathogens.

When dividing Clivia, first take the mother plant out of the pot, remove the old soil, and find the lateral buds that can be divided. If the offset plant grows on the outer edge of the mother plant and is relatively small, you can hold the bulb part with one hand and pinch the base of the offset with the other hand, give it a tear and twist, and the offset can be separated from the mother plant; if the offset is thick and strong and not easy to pull off, you should cut it off with the prepared sharp knife. Never force it off, so as not to damage the young plant. After the offset is cut off, immediately apply dry charcoal powder to the wound to absorb the flowing liquid and prevent rot. Next, pot the offset for planting. When planting, the planting depth should be such that the base pseudobulb of the offset is buried, and the part near the seedling should be made slightly higher, and then cover with disinfected sandy soil. After planting, immediately water once thoroughly, and after 2 weeks when the wound has healed, add another layer of culture soil. Generally, new roots grow after 1-2 months, and it blooms after 1-2 years. Clivia propagated by division has relatively stable heredity and can maintain the various characteristics of the original species.

The cultivation methods for Clivia are divided into soil cultivation methods and water cultivation methods. Below we will look specifically at these 2 cultivation methods.

Soil cultivation techniques for Clivia

Clivia is relatively easy to cultivate. First, choose the pot soil well, and it can be placed indoors near a window, with fertilizer and water controlled according to the temperature characteristics of each place. During the growing period, the pot soil must be kept moist; during the high-temperature semi-dormant period, the pot soil should be on the dry side, and water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface to achieve the purpose of cooling. Clivia likes fertilizer. Every 2 to 3 years, repot once in spring or autumn, and add decomposed cake fertilizer into the pot soil. Each year before the growing period, apply 5 to 40 grams of decomposed cake fertilizer beneath the pot surface soil, and apply liquid fertilizer once during growth. During management, often turn the pot to prevent the leaves from leaning to one side; if they lean to one side, promptly straighten them. When the temperature is 25 to 30°C, it is easy to cause excessive leaf growth, making the leaves narrow and long, which affects the ornamental effect, so when cultivating Clivia be sure to pay attention to regulating room temperature.

1. Soil

Clivia is suitable for soil rich in humus. This kind of soil has good breathability, good water permeability, and is fertile and slightly acidic. Generally, the soil mix for Clivia is 6 parts leaf mold, 2 parts pine needles, 1 part river sand or furnace ash residue, and 1 part base fertilizer (hemp seeds, etc.). Leaf mold mainly refers to oak leaves, also called oak. This kind of leaf is thick in texture and is very good humus. It is nutritious and has good water permeability. Other leaves are too thin and disappear after decomposition, so they cannot be mixed with other media to make soil. When cultivating, increase the pot size gradually as the plant grows. When cultivating one-year-old seedlings, a 3-inch pot is suitable. In the second year, change to a 5-inch pot, and afterward change to a pot one size larger every 1-2 years. Repotting can be carried out in spring and autumn.

2. Watering

Clivia has relatively well-developed fleshy roots, and a certain amount of water is stored in the roots, so this flower is relatively drought-tolerant. However, drought-tolerant flowers also cannot be severely short of water, especially in summer when high temperatures are combined with dry air, timely watering must not be forgotten; otherwise, the roots and leaves of the flower will be damaged, causing new leaves not to sprout and the original leaves to scorch, which not only affects flowering but may even cause the plant to die. However, too much watering will also cause root rot. So it must be controlled well, and always pay attention to the dry and wet condition of the pot soil. When it becomes half-dry, water once, but the amount should not be too much. Keeping the pot soil moist but not wet is just right.

If conditions permit, magnetized water is of course best; next is rainwater, snow water, or living water from rivers; next is pond water; and the worst is tap water. Flower growers living in large cities only have tap water available, so they can put the tap water into a small water vat or basin/bucket and water after 2-3 days. This allows some harmful impurities in the water to settle. In addition, it allows the substances contained in the water to be oxidized and purified, and can make the water temperature close to the pot soil temperature, so it will not be too cold or too hot and harm the plant.

3. Fertilizing

Many flowers like fertilizer, but fertilizing fertilizer-loving flowers also has a limit. Too much fertilizer is not good for growth and may even cause the plant's roots to rot or scorch. Clivia also belongs to this type of plant, so fertilizer must be applied in the right amount. Flowers have different nutrient requirements at different growth and development stages. Therefore, different fertilizing methods suitable for the plant's needs should be adopted at each period. Such as base fertilizer, topdressing, and foliar fertilization.

① Apply base fertilizer (also called basal fertilizer). The purpose is to create conditions for the plant's growth and development and meet its nutrient needs. Base fertilizer for Clivia should be applied when repotting every 2 years. Apply commonly used barnyard manure (that is, poultry and livestock manure), compost, green manure, bean cake fertilizer, etc. into the soil.

② Topdressing. This mainly promotes plant growth. Clivia can be given fertilizers such as cake fertilizer, fish meal, and bone meal. Newly planted plants should be given less, and later as the plant grows larger and the leaves increase, the amount of fertilizer should also gradually increase. When fertilizing, scrape aside the pot soil and apply it into the soil at a depth of 2-3 cm, but note that the fertilizer applied should not be too close to the root system, so as not to burn the roots. Applying this kind of solid fertilizer once a month is generally enough, and it should not be more frequent.

③ Apply liquid fertilizer as topdressing. Liquid fertilizer topdressing is done by diluting the soaked and fermented decomposed clear supernatant of animal and plant materials with 30-40 parts clean water and then pouring it onto the pot soil. Small seedlings should be watered with a 40-fold dilution, medium seedlings with a 30-fold dilution, and large seedlings with only a 20-fold dilution. After applying the fertilizer liquid, water once with clean water 1-2 days later (the amount of water should not be too much), so that the fertilizer penetrates to the root system in the pot soil and fully exerts its fertilizing effect. Do not water 1-2 days before applying liquid fertilizer; let the pot soil be relatively dry before applying the fertilizer liquid, which is more effective. The best time to fertilize is early morning; when pouring, the fertilizer liquid should be poured along the edge of the pot, and be careful to avoid applying it on the plant and leaves. In addition, the type of fertilizer should also differ according to the season. For example, in spring and winter it is suitable to apply some phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, such as fish meal, bone meal, hemp cake, etc., which help leaf vein formation and improve leaf glossiness; while in autumn it is suitable to apply the extract of decomposed animal hair, horns, hooves, or bean cake, diluted with 30-40 times clean water before pouring, to promote leaf growth.

④ Foliar topdressing. Fertilizing by this method mainly makes up for the deficiency of nutrients in the soil, to solve the problem of nutrient deficiency in the plant body, so that seedlings grow quickly and flowers and fruits grow plump. Foliar fertilization is the direct spraying of a diluted fertilizer solution onto the plant's leaf surface with a sprayer, allowing nutrient elements to penetrate through the leaf epidermal cells and stomata into the leaf tissues and then be transported throughout the plant. Commonly used fertilizer types include urea, monopotassium phosphate, superphosphate, etc. When spraying, spray evenly on both the front and back sides of the leaves. Spray once every 4-6 days during the growing season, and once every 2 weeks during semi-dormancy. Generally spray after sunrise, and stop application after the plant blooms. It must be noted that this method can only be used when the plant is found to be deficient in fertilizer. If the plant has sufficient nutrients and is growing vigorously, it should not be used.

4. Summer heat protection

In midsummer, the temperature is often above 30°C, which is extremely unfavorable for Clivia's growth. For this reason, it is common to build a shade frame to cool it down. You can also bury the Clivia together with the pot in sand (bury the pot completely), and then sprinkle water on the sand once each morning and evening. In this way, not only can the pot soil be kept moist, but more importantly, the heat absorption effect of water evaporation from the sand can be used to achieve cooling.

5. Later-stage management

The flowering period of Clivia is generally from February to April. After flowering, the flowering period can be extended by appropriately lowering the temperature, ventilating, and reducing light. The length of Clivia's flowering period can be controlled through people's cultivation techniques.

① Fertilizing: Apply once with bone meal, well-fermented fish innards, and bean cake water, which can make the flower color vivid, the flowers larger, and the leaves thick. Otherwise, small flowers, few in number, and pale flower color are likely to appear. At the same time, be careful to avoid applying too much nitrogen fertilizer and insufficient phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which would cause weak growth or excessive leaf growth, affecting bud appearance and flowering.

② Light: A certain amount of light conditions should be provided to meet the requirements of photosynthesis and flowering for light. Under strong light, the flowering period is short and the flower color is vivid; under weak light, the flower color is pale. Too long or too strong light, or long-term shading and insufficient light, all affect the production and accumulation of nutrients, making it unable to show buds and bloom.

③ Temperature: Suitable temperature has a clear effect on the quality of flowering. If the temperature is too high, root hairs exist for an extremely short time, and the function of absorbing water and fertilizer is greatly reduced, causing Clivia to appear semi-dormant; if the temperature is below 10°C, growth will also be inhibited; during the growing period it should be controlled at 15-25°C, and during the flowering period it should be 15-20°C. When root hairs exist for a long time and the water and fertilizer absorption function is good, the leaves grow short and wide, and the flower vigor is lush. Also note that Clivia should maintain a temperature difference of about 8°C between day and night, because the organic matter it produces under higher daytime temperatures needs to be stored and digested under lower nighttime temperatures.

④ Moisture: Clivia cannot lack water throughout the plant's growth period, and the water requirement is even greater when it enters the flowering period. The growth humidity should not be lower than 60%.

Water cultivation techniques for Clivia

Clivia can also be water-cultivated. Below we will look at the water cultivation methods for Clivia.

1. Container selection

To hydroponically cultivate Clivia, first choose a good container. Generally speaking, a transparent glass container is best. If growing one seedling, only a glass canning jar is needed. If water-cultivating in large quantities, you can use fine iron wire to weave a metal mesh with a hole diameter of one centimeter, and make a glass hydroponic box slightly smaller than the metal mesh; or use a goldfish tank instead. Then cover the hydroponic box with the metal mesh, insert the Clivia seedlings separately through the mesh holes into the nutrient solution, and the depth of the flower roots in the culture solution should be limited to not exceeding the pseudobulb at the base of the roots.

2. Nutrient solution preparation

Nutrient solutions are divided into inorganic and organic types. The inorganic nutrient solution can be prepared in the following proportions: calcium 1.5 g, ferrous sulfate 0.01 g, urea g, monopotassium phosphate 1 g, magnesium sulfate 0.5 g. After the above 5 inorganic salts are all prepared, dissolve them in 1000 g of water and it is ready to use. The organic nutrient solution is prepared as follows: fried hemp seed meal 100 g, bone meal (made from unsalted fresh bones) 100 g, bean cake powder 150 g, roasted sesame powder 50 g, then dissolve in 1000 g of water. Comparing the above two nutrient solutions, the organic fertilizer has rich components but low nutrient content, while the inorganic fertilizer has relatively single components but strong fertilizing effect and quick results. To make up for each other's shortcomings, the two can be used in combination. If used alone, apply the inorganic fertilizer once a week and the organic fertilizer once every 5 days.

3. Water

For hydroponically cultivating Clivia, tap water cannot be used directly; water that has been "aged" must be used. So-called "aged" water means putting tap water into a container and exposing it to sunlight for 3-5 days, so that chlorides such as bleaching powder that are harmful to Clivia roots settle. From the appearance of "aged" water, the sediment changes from strip-like to clump-like, and the water color is best when green. After the water is "aged", when submerging the root position, the pseudobulb must not be submerged. If the water level is too shallow, Clivia cannot get a sufficient water supply; if the water level is too deep (submerging the pseudobulb), it will cause root rot. During cultivation, pay attention to observing changes in water quality. If the roots are found to be somewhat yellow or black, it indicates that the water is both short of oxygen and low in fertilizer, and the water must be changed immediately.

4. Air

Whether the ventilation around the roots of hydroponic orchids can be handled well is the key to the success or failure of hydroponics. After a period of cultivation, a layer of green moss grows on the roots of hydroponic orchids. When the moss is too thick, it will seriously affect root respiration and corrode the culture solution. At this time, use a soft, clean brush to gently brush away the moss layer on the roots (it does not need to be brushed very clean, because a small amount of moss on the roots has little effect). In addition, often check whether the oxygen in the water is sufficient. The checking method is: put two or three small fish into the hydroponic box. If the small fish swim freely in the water, it indicates that the water is not short of oxygen; if the small fish always float to the surface, with mouth and gills exposed to breathe, it indicates that the water is short of oxygen. After discovering that the water is short of oxygen, oxygen must be replenished. There are two methods: one is to change the water, and the other is to use a small oxygen pump to supply oxygen to the water.

5. Sunlight

In terms of sunlight handling, Clivia is a semi-shade and semi-sun plant, so attention must be paid to light. Especially in summer, avoid direct strong sunlight and let it receive scattered light. In addition, according to the light-facing characteristics of Clivia leaves, pay attention to making the leaves receive light evenly; otherwise, the leaves will be of uneven length, and the growth direction will also be staggered front and back. Generally, adjust the light angle once every two or three days.

6. Temperature

In terms of temperature handling, the environmental temperature for adult Clivia is best at 11-25°C, and for small seedlings it can be slightly higher, 20-35°C is fine. When growing orchids in water, master the day-night temperature difference. In winter, keep it at around 20°C during the day and not lower than 15°C at night.

Blue sage seed price, blue sage flowering period introduction

Blue sage, also known as pink-calyx sage, yichuanlan, and blue silk thread, is a perennial herb, 30-60 cm tall, with a clustered plant form and the plant covered with fine hairs. Do you want to know about it? Today the editor will briefly introduce the seed price of blue sage and its flowering period.


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      Blue sage is a cold-tolerant perennial plant, about three feet tall, with strong branches and roots, hairy stems, gray-green, two inches tall, and opposite elliptical leaves.
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      The leaf surface of blue sage has somewhat rough protrusions. The spike-shaped flowers bloom in June and July and come in three colors: blue, white, and purple. Blue sage, whose flowers resemble a mouse tail, has more than seven hundred varieties in total.
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      After blue sage dries, its color changes from the original gray-green to silver-gray, and its unique active ingredients increase the efficacy threefold. Of course, the aroma and bitterness also increase at the same time, but once added to warm water, it turns into a mild and sweet taste.
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      Blue sage has terminal flowers, many and densely arranged, with a tubular bell-shaped calyx, and the flower colors are pink-blue or pink-purple. The flowering period is from spring to summer, generally from May to October.
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      In landscaping, blue sage is used for flower beds, flower borders, mass planting, cut flowers, and potted flowers. It has strong adaptability, is cold-tolerant, likes sun, tolerates high temperature and high humidity, is drought-tolerant, does not tolerate shade, tolerates pruning, and has moderate requirements for fertilizer and water.
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      Blue sage seeds are not expensive. On the market they generally cost more than 10 yuan per gram. When growing blue sage, it is very important to keep it slightly dry. Try to keep the leaf surface dry to prevent diseases.
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      To make the plant's root system robust and the branches and leaves lush, continuous fertilization is very important. Use a compound fertilizer containing calcium and magnesium at 100 ppm once every half month.
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      For blue sage sowing and seedling raising, there are about 920 seeds per gram. Generally choose 200-cell or 288-cell trays for sowing. The medium is generally imported seedling peat soil or disinfected domestic seedling peat soil, and its pH value should be 5.5 to 5.8.
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      After sowing blue sage, cover with a thin layer of vermiculite, then cover with plastic film. The suitable germination temperature is 20°C to 23°C, and the germination days are 5 to 8 days.
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Conclusion: Blue sage is suitable for the arrangement of flower beds, flower borders, and garden scenic spots. It can also be used to decorate the sides of rocks and gaps at forest edges, appearing quiet and secluded. Placed in front of natural buildings and in small courtyards, it feels even more elegant and serene. Today the editor's introduction to blue sage ends here. Thank you for your appreciation.

[Article source] Flowers and Potted Landscapes

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