Monstera cutting methods are simple and easy to learn, and your houseplants will multiply

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Monstera leaves are emerald green like palm fans, not only beautiful but also able to absorb formaldehyde, so many people like to keep it at home. But some people like it so much that they want to propagate their Monstera into more plants, yet they never succeed because they do not know the method.

Propagation by seed usually takes a relatively long time and is not very suitable for houseplants. The best and fastest way to propagate Monstera is by cuttings. To take cuttings from Monstera, we should first choose suitable branches; it is best to select sturdy, plump Monstera branches that are more than one year old but less than two years old for cuttings. After choosing them, do not rush to cut them off; first prepare the flowerpot and potting soil. The flowerpot should have good breathability, and the potting soil should be loose and airy.

Once everything is ready, we can cut off the selected Monstera branch with a slanted cut and then insert it into the prepared flowerpot. The first watering must be generous; it is best to let the water in the flowerpot flow out from the bottom. If you are worried about dirtying the room, you can put a tray underneath, because if there is not enough water, the newly inserted Monstera cutting will have difficulty taking root.

Monstera cuttings must be taken in March in spring or September in autumn, because winter and summer are when Monstera grows fastest. After inserting the Monstera cutting, it must first be placed in a shady place, and only after the leaves are no longer drooping can it be moved to a place with sunlight. But do not let it be exposed to the scorching midday sun either; sunlight in the morning and evening is enough.

After cutting, Monstera basically stabilizes by the time it has grown for one month, and afterward it should be given a little fertilizer every twenty days to one month. You can use organic fertilizer or flower nutrient solution, but the concentration should not be too high. When fertilizing, it is best to mix in a little ferrous sulfate, which can make the Monstera leaves greener. You can also wipe the Monstera leaves with leftover overnight beer diluted with water; this will make the leaves glossy green and beautiful and enhance their ornamental value.

Although Monstera usually likes a humid environment, it should not be watered too frequently. You must wait until the surface layer of the soil is dry before watering again. If you are worried that the Monstera will suffer from drought, you can spray a little water on the leaves every morning and evening. Only in this way can you ensure that the Monstera has sufficient moisture without root rot.

Hydroponic flower knowledge | The complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Hydroponic flower knowledge | The complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Ten questions about hydroponic flower techniques

1. What flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages does it have?

Answer: In theory, any flower can be grown hydroponically, but different types of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need water control to promote flowering may have their flowering affected under hydroponic conditions, and some plants that are sensitive to oxygen deficiency need air pumped into the nutrient solution at regular intervals to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different types of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so suitable nutrient solution formulas need to be adopted. Therefore, flowers and plants must undergo proper acclimation and adaptation before they can be grown hydroponically. There are many plants suitable for hydroponics, including golden
money tree, money tree, roundleaf peperomia, sunflower, arrowroot, little angel, Marian, spider plant, golden barrel cactus and other cactus balls, as well as jewel orchid, snake plant, and so on. Hydroponic flowers can go a long time without watering or fertilizing, have no foreign leaves, are clean and hygienic, beautiful and elegant, and are the first choice for home beautification and greening.

2. What substances are contained in the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?

Answer: The hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the essential nutrient elements needed for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, and so on. It is a colorless, odorless, non-toxic product, so please use it with confidence.

3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two parts of concentrated liquid?

Answer: The main reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is that when the concentrations of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, and copper in the nutrient solution are too high, they can precipitate with each other and make the nutrients ineffective. Therefore, in order to ensure sufficient and balanced nutrient supply, these non-toxic compounds cannot be mixed together in the concentrated nutrient solution. So, if the hydroponic nutrient solutions currently sold on the market are only one type, their nutrients are often unbalanced.

4. Is more nutrient solution in the hydroponic flower container always better?

Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth of the flower root system and cannot be too much. In general, when the root system is relatively well developed, part of the root system should be exposed to the air above the liquid surface so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air, which is very beneficial to healthy root growth. Never add too much nutrient solution to the container, but it should not be too little either; if it is too little, the nutrient solution will need to be replenished frequently, causing inconvenience in management. Usually, maintaining a nutrient solution layer about 5-10 cm deep is enough.

5. Do home hydroponic flowers need sunlight?

Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If they are shade-loving species, they should not be exposed to direct sunlight, but because hydroponic flowers displayed at home are usually in an environment with poor light, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed on a balcony with slightly stronger light at regular intervals. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day a week is enough.

6. Do hydroponic flowers require a different nutrient solution for each type of flower?

Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every type of flower requires a corresponding nutrient solution. It is enough to choose different nutrient solutions according to different major categories; of course, a general-purpose nutrient solution can also be used. At present, the Soilless Cultivation Technology Research Laboratory of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage type, internal plant type, orchid type, and flowering type.

7. Can flowers grown directly in soil be converted directly to hydroponics?

Answer: Converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics must go through a series of treatments first. First, take out the soil-cultured flower and wash the root system clean, then soak the roots in hydroponic root treatment liquid for about 20 minutes before they can be placed in a hydroponic container for hydroponics.

8. Do flowers and fish kept together need to be fed?

Answer: No feeding is needed. This is because most of the fish kept together with flowers are small fish, and these fish only need to absorb plankton and root secretions from the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If they are fed, it is instead easy to cause the fish to overeat and die. At the same time, after adding feed, it is also easy to make the nutrient solution cloudy and reduce the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution, affecting the growth of both the flowers and the fish.

9. When growing hydroponic flowers, should the nutrient solution be replenished or replaced?

Answer: This depends on the speed of water consumption by the plant. If the weather is dry and the plant is relatively large, generally the nutrient solution needs to be replenished once every about 15-20 days, and adding an appropriate amount of nutrient solution at that time is enough. When replenishing the nutrient solution, never add too much; just add about 1/3-1/2 of the container depth.

10. How long is the shelf life of concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?

Answer: The shelf life of concentrated liquid for hydroponic flowers is almost unlimited, but generally do not use any that has been stored for more than 5 years. When storing the concentrated nutrient solution, keep it away from light as much as possible and do not place it where children can reach it.
A talk on experience with home hydroponic flowers

As an environmentally friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-grown flowers: 1) Water replaces soil, with no odor and clean and hygienic. 2) No need to repot or loosen soil, which can reduce the labor of growing flowers. 3) Light in weight and can be moved anytime and anywhere. 4) Flexible material selection, which can be reasonably matched according to indoor display. 5) Fewer harmful microorganisms in the water and a high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can remain stable above 80%.

1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Many years of practice have proven that foliage plants are the first choice for home hydroponic flowers, such as Guangdong dieffenbachia, spotted dieffenbachia, Monstera, calla lily, pothos, lucky bamboo, asparagus fern, spider plant, aloe, inch plant, wandering jew, coleus, Brazilian wood, parlor palm, hibiscus, and fuchsia. In addition, scarlet sage, azalea, camellia, cyclamen, amaryllis, calla lily, crown of thorns, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and other such flowering plants also have good results with hydroponics. Boston fern, calendula, petunia, and red-backed eucalyptus have low survival rates as hydroponic flowers.

2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials. 1) Container. Any beautiful container that can hold water may be used. It is best to use a transparent container, such as a beverage bottle (cut off the narrow neck), wine glass, teacup, vase, fish tank, and so on. The upper opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, and texture of the container should be coordinated with the hydroponic flowers. It is best to clean and disinfect it before use. 2) Bedding material. Bedding material is often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container, mainly to stabilize the plant, such as pebbles, yellow sand, perlite, and so on. Small pebbles with an elegant appearance and varied shapes are best. They should also be cleaned and disinfected before use.

3. Timing for hydroponics. Spring and autumn are most suitable for hydroponics, but it also varies by flower species. If the indoor temperature is 15°C-28°C, foliage plants can be grown hydroponically all year round. Flowering plants are best grown hydroponically when the first flower bud is about to open. For example, cyclamen, hyacinth, azalea, camellia, and others are often grown hydroponically in early January, so that the full bloom period falls during the Spring Festival, giving people the joy of warm spring flowers blooming.

4. Acquisition and treatment of hydroponic materials. 1) Root-washing method. Select a potted plant with a full shape, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases, remove it from the pot and soil, wash the soil off the roots with water close to room temperature, and cut off roots that have already rotted or aged - if the fibrous roots are dense, about 1/3 may be cut off, but avoid damaging new roots - then soak the roots in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes - this both sterilizes and disinfects and can promote new root growth - and then carry out hydroponics. This method is mostly used for larger plants and flowers that are difficult to root. 2) Water-cutting method. Select sturdy, pest-free, semi-lignified branches of the current year and cut them off and insert them into water for hydroponics. The cutting position is often two or three millimeters below the stem node. The cut should be smoothed with a sharp knife - wiped and disinfected beforehand with white liquor - and the lower leaves of the branch should be removed. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a black plastic bag around a transparent container to facilitate rooting of the cuttings. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.

5. Water used for hydroponics and water changes. 1) Water. Mountain spring water is best, as its water quality is clean, pollution-free, non-precipitating, and contains a variety of trace elements necessary for plant growth. Cooled boiled water is second. It is best not to use tap water, because it contains many impurities, precipitates easily, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial to flower growth. 2) Water changes. Because of normal plant growth and metabolism, after a period of hydroponics, the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed, and at the same time the root system produces mucus, so the water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning. Much of the nutrient solution added to the water has also been absorbed by the plant, and too much residual unabsorbed elements can also harm the flowers. Therefore, the water must be changed regularly. Changes in water quality are directly related to temperature. Spring and autumn are peak growth periods for flowers, so change the water once every 7-10 days; in summer, change the water once every 4-6 days; in winter, change the water once every about 15-20 days. Each time you change the water, wash away the mucus on the roots and cut off aged roots and rotten roots. The height of the added water should be level with the root zone; too deep makes oxygen deficiency and root rot easy, while too shallow easily causes the root system to lack water and affects growth.

6. Addition of hydroponic nutrient solution. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, about half a month after hydroponics, new roots can be produced. Along with the growth of the flowers and plants, nutrient solution must be continuously added in conjunction with water changes. Different types of flower nutrient solution can be purchased on the market as needed. It must be noted that: 1) The various nutrient solutions purchased are stock solutions and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies with different flower species, so the instructions should be read carefully. 2) All kinds of special nutrient solutions must be used only for their intended purpose, avoiding mismatching. For example, if orchid nutrient solution is applied to clivia, it will cause the clivia not to bloom or to bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period; directly changing the water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also gives good results, such as with pothos and spotted dieffenbachia.

Techniques for preventing and controlling pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers

Because of the particularity of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor to use large doses of fungicides to sterilize. Although these drugs can kill insects and sterilize, they also cause pollution to the environment at the same time.

Prevention should be the main approach to possible pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible flowers with sturdy plants, luxuriant growth, and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, they can be removed by manual capture or washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases occur relatively rarely in hydroponic flowers; only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular round wet-spot-like lesions, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so that it does not spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection by pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot, stuffy summer weather, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sun, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, nutrient solution concentration being too high, or inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry up and the lower leaves to yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot disease easy to occur; this is even more a common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the different symptoms above, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with separated nodes and rotten roots be cared for? Due to improper management, or root hypoxia and root rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, and viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves yellowing and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to separate at the nodes and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with separated nodes and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still healthy upper branch 3 cm below the stem node and insert it in clean water. After a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As long as the branch at the lower end with separated nodes does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, at which point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow cordyline, arrowhead plant, and others can all use this method.

The complete home hydroponic flower manual

Four ways to obtain hydroponic plants

1. Remove from the pot flowers grown in soil or other organic substrates, or in inorganic substrates, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and change them to static hydroponics with nutrient solution.

2. Use flower branches as cuttings and insert them directly into static water; after they take root, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) as they grow, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as spider plant and pineapple, and these small plantlets can be picked off and directly hydroponically grown.

4. For flowers that produce many tiller buds, such as clivia and bromeliads, the method of peeling off rooted tiller buds can be used for hydroponics.

How to prepare hydroponic nutrient solution

Home static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must have three basic conditions:

1. Choose plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, for use as static hydroponic flowers.

2. Choose cultivation containers that match the size and style of the hydroponic flowers and that do not leak and have no bottom holes.

3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with ion-balanced absorption (appropriate ratio) and complete elemental mineral nutrition necessary for the growth of flowers and plants. The recommended formula is as follows:

(1) Macroelements: calcium nitrate 0.27 grams, potassium nitrate 0.13 grams, monopotassium phosphate 0.0 8 grams, magnesium sulfate 0.13 grams.

(2) Trace elements: disodium edetate 8.0 milligrams, ferrous sulfate 5.0 milligrams, manganese sulfate 1.4 milligrams, boric acid 2.0 milligrams, zinc sulfate 0.07 milligrams, copper sulfate 0.04 milligrams, sodium molybdate 0.09 milligrams. (3) Purified water: 1 liter (1000 milliliters).

The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC is <0.5 mm/cm.

Cultivate the selected flowers in a vessel and pour in hydroponic nutrient solution to grow them, and they become a static hydroponic flower with a distinctive charm.

When preparing nutrient solution, it is best to use purified water. Of course, drinking tap water can generally also be used to prepare nutrient solution. Both have undergone strict treatment and are clean and hygienic, meeting the requirements of sterile (or low-bacteria) cultivation. However, full attention must be paid to the fact that purified water has fewer impurities and pathogens and basically does not contain the nutrient elements necessary for plants, while tap water, as the components in the water source change, contains nutrient elements in unstable forms. Therefore, the nutrient solution prepared with purified water has stable and consistent components, while the nutrient solution prepared with tap water has unstable components.

Liquid chlorine is used when disinfecting tap water. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flowers and plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Let the tap water out and store it in a relatively wide-mouthed bucket for a few days, stirring it with a wooden stick several times, to remove chlorine. If water is urgently needed for changing the water, 3 to 5 grains of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as hypo) can be added to 10 kilograms of tap water and stirred evenly, which can also achieve the effect of removing chlorine.

Most foliage flowers like a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance of alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics either. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the pH of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which can help the flowers absorb trace elements, keep physiological metabolism undisturbed, grow normally, and keep the leaves emerald green.

How to carry out foliar fertilization

Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under conditions of root hypoxia, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of the flowers. In order to improve the quality of the flowers, the method of leaf surface fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaf surface. A fine-nozzle spray bottle should be used, and as far as possible the fertilizer liquid should not run off; the back of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growth period, and it can make hydroponic flowers flourish with luxuriant branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as peace lily, four-season begonia, bamboo begonia, and calla lily, a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaf surface once a week during the bud stage until the flowers open.

Temperature requirements for hydroponic flowers

Hydroponic flowers only change one method of flower cultivation; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flowers and plants used in static hydroponics mostly originate from Latin American rainforests, or tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded valley areas, and belong to cold-intolerant flower plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer cold damage, with leaf edges scorched and dry, old leaves yellowing, drooping, and falling off. Under static hydroponic conditions, this phenomenon will likewise occur. Some flowers are relatively cold-resistant, such as ivy, periwinkle, and candle plant, and grow normally at temperatures of 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, the leaves of some flowers lose their luster, growth becomes sluggish, and the leaf edges have scorch-like brown spots, showing a dormant state of intolerance to high temperatures, such as bamboo begonia, four-season begonia, and coleus. Above 30°C, root rot is common in static hydroponics; of course, this is also related to the decrease in dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution as temperature rises. Keeping the temperature at 15°C to 28°C is suitable for various static hydroponic flowers. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each type of flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.

Light requirements for hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lighting, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color on the leaf surface in a relatively weak-light environment and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light but not exposed to strong direct light can such flowers maintain bright leaf color.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of placed flowers should be rotated at regular intervals. This work can be completed together with cleaning the vessel and replacing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the root system, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, which will keep the flower from growing toward one side and keep the top shoot upright and growing upward.

Humid environment and good ventilation

The places of origin of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to spray mist on the leaves of the flowers (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors to do this, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-nozzle spray head so that the sprayed mist droplets stick to the leaf surface and do not run down. For the leaves of flowers that are relatively firm and have a waxy film, such as Monstera and clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which can both increase the humidity of the leaf surface and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin filled with clean water can be placed beside the flowers; the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers are displayed indoors. If doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is turbid, it is unfavorable to their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, if the room does not open doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor enough fresh air. Dissolved oxygen continues to decrease, growth becomes worse and worse, and yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots occur. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened at regular intervals to form air convection and let fresh outside air enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course reach the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which will cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with relatively thin leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be carried out at appropriate times; this is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places where large hydroponic flowers are displayed especially need to do this work well.

Prevention and control of pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers

Hydroponics breaks away from infection by soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, so it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, washed at the roots, and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, insect eggs, larvae, and so on; if these are not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Because of the particularity of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor to use large doses of fungicides to sterilize. Although these drugs can kill insects and sterilize, they also cause pollution to the environment at the same time.

Prevention should be the main approach to possible pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible flowers with sturdy plants, luxuriant growth, and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, they can be removed by manual capture or washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases occur relatively rarely in hydroponic flowers; only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular round wet-spot-like lesions, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so that it does not spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.

Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection by pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot, stuffy summer weather, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sun, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, nutrient solution concentration being too high, or inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry up and the lower leaves to yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot disease easy to occur; this is even more a common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the different symptoms above, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with separated nodes and rotten roots be cared for? Due to improper management, or root hypoxia and root rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, and viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves yellowing and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to separate at the nodes and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with separated nodes and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still healthy upper branch 3 cm below the stem node and insert it in clean water. After a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As long as the branch at the lower end with separated nodes does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, at which point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow cordyline, arrowhead plant, and others can all use this method.

How many hydroponic flowers are appropriate to display

Growing hydroponic flowers indoors can help regulate mood, beautify the environment, and also purify the air. Displaying a few plants appropriately is beneficial. If the living space is not large and too many flowers are placed, flowers and people will compete for oxygen at night. So how many flowers are appropriate to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered suitable to grow one or two kinds of flowers per 10 square meters of room area. Calculated by this standard, for a living space of 50 square meters to 60 square meters, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of varying sizes can both satisfy appreciation and avoid flowers competing with people for oxygen at night.

How to choose hydroponic flower materials in winter

Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people because of their cleanliness, beauty, and ease of care. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, you must pay attention to the following four "musts":

First, you must choose flower types suitable for hydroponics. If you buy types unsuitable for hydroponics and grow them in water, they will gradually die before long because the roots rot. Aquatic plants, hygrophytic plants, and a group of relatively drought-intolerant terrestrial plants are all relatively suitable for hydroponics, such as umbrella plant, arrowhead plant, pothos, philodendron, wandering jew, lucky bamboo, and so on.

Second, you must choose flower types with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, they need relatively high temperatures to overwinter and are difficult to overwinter safely in ordinary homes, being prone to cold damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with a little protection include Monstera, purple-leaf inch plant, aloe, spider plant, umbrella plant, parlor palm, and palm bamboo.

Third, you must choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors take soil-grown flowers out of the soil, wash the soil off the roots, and immediately supply them to the flower market. Although such flower materials look normal, they still need to go through an adaptation process before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so you must distinguish carefully when purchasing. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or stem base.

Fourth, you must choose plants that are sturdy and free of pests and diseases. Plants with upright, vigorous branches and leaves and full, glossy leaves are conducive to showing the ornamental effect that flowers should have.

Advantages of hydroponics

1. Simple daily management

The hydroponic flowers of "Hydroponic Flower King" are very simple to manage daily. Apart from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the vigorous growth period of plants in spring and summer, and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, they do not need extra care. Usually, you only need to spray water on the leaf surface in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaf surface, wipe it with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. It saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil, and watering every day, and is very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.

2. Clean and stylish

Because hydroponic flowers have completely broken away from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-bacteria nutrient solution environment, they will not pollute our living environment with pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil like soil-grown flowers do, making our homes safer, cleaner, and more reassuring. Moreover, because they are separated from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, vessels, and materials to grow them. Not only can we appreciate the flowers and leaves, but we can also appreciate the root growth process and their various beautiful forms that are not usually seen. They are very neat and stylish.

3. Many applicable varieties, and the technique is easy to master and operate

Because the technology for adapting plant roots from a soil-grown environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, "Hydroponic Flower King" does not need to be cultivated through planting baskets to produce water roots, nor does it need early-stage computer or electric field mutagenesis. Only very simple technical treatment is needed, and soil-grown roots can quickly transform into water roots. Anyone can grow vigorous, lush hydroponic flowers. This greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives products greater profit margins, and increases the competitiveness of products in the market. At the same time, because production costs are relatively low, more people can enjoy the lifestyle trend brought by new technology, rapidly expanding market share. Because planting baskets are not used, hydroponic flowers become even more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater will change the concentration and pH value of the nutrient solution, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for open-air cultivation. In this way, some light-loving plants are relatively difficult to grow hydroponically indoors at home, but common shade-loving and semi-shade-loving flowers can basically all be successfully grown hydroponically. The number of test varieties has currently reached nearly more than four hundred. If your home has sunlight or an artificially regulated greenhouse, then in theory any plant can be grown hydroponically, only with different degrees of difficulty.

4. Green and environmentally friendly, can grow flowers and fish together

The "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic ingredients, so fish and flowers can be kept together for a long time without any side effects harmful to the flowers or fish. The fish in our specialty store still grow well after long-term rearing, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants, with very good results as well. Practice has proven that it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special ingredients, mosquitoes and insects are not easy to breed in the nutrient solution. Moreover, when you change the water, if you pour the discarded nutrient solution into the soil-grown potted flowers in your home, there will be an even more unexpected surprise. Facts have proven that the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and environmentally friendly nutrient solution, and its effect is very obvious.

Selection of hydroponic flower types

The growth and development of flowers require suitable conditions of water, oxygen, nutrients, light, temperature, and so on. The water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as light and temperature are suitable and the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in time, flowers can grow normally in water.

Due to differences in the ecological habits and tissue structure of flowers, different flowers also have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have ventilating tissue in their bodies, and the oxygen produced by these plants during photosynthesis can be sent through the ventilating tissue to the root system for respiration; some flowers have aerial roots at the stem nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen needed by the plant from the air; although some flowers do not have ventilating tissue and aerial roots that absorb oxygen, they are very well adapted to hydroponic conditions. However, for some flowers, the oxygen content in the water cannot meet the needs of their normal growth and development, so such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to succeed in hydroponics, you must choose flower types that can adapt to hydroponic conditions and must not carry out cultivation blindly, so as to avoid failure in hydroponics.

Flower types adapted to hydroponics

Araceae

Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When propagated by water cuttings, most can take root in a relatively short time and grow rapidly, quickly forming a plant shape with a certain ornamental value; after soil-grown plants are washed with water, most of their original root systems can adapt to a hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers adapted to hydroponics include pothos, Guangdong dieffenbachia, dieffenbachia, silver king, golden queen, clustered Philodendron, mini Monstera, Monstera, peace lily, green emerald, philodendron, fiddle-leaf philodendron, green emperor philodendron, arrowhead plant, calla lily, anthurium, emerald gem, and so on.

Commelinaceae

Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as purple-leaf inch plant, purple-backed oyster plant, bamboo leaf, wandering jew, and so on, all of which can quickly take root and grow when grown as water cuttings.

Liliaceae

The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as aloe, triangle aloe, Haworthia, spider plant, cordyline, dragon blood tree, ponytail iron, snake plant, agave, golden-edged lucky bamboo, sea onion, silver-edged dieffenbachia, silver-edged lilyturf, and so on.

Crassulaceae

Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively adapted to hydroponic conditions, such as Aeonium, lotus palm, silver wave kalanchoe, jewel flower, mother of thousands, and so on.

In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics include aucuba, umbrella plant, coleus, purple velvet plant, blue pine, bamboo begonia, ox-ear begonia, green emerald, clivia, paphiopedilum, croton, dusty miller, candle plant, leaf cactus, triangle bamboo, pineapple, earth star, golden millet orchid, star jasmine, dragon bone, rainbow cactus, variegated periwinkle, red-backed eucalyptus, four seas wave, ivy, English ivy, palm bamboo, parlor palm, and so on.

When choosing hydroponic flower types, in addition to considering whether they can adapt to hydroponic conditions, you should also pay attention to the following factors:

Although some flowers are very well adapted to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high temperature requirements for overwintering. For example, some species of dieffenbachia and croton require an overwintering temperature above 15°C; pothos, arrowhead plant, golden-edged lucky bamboo, and dragon blood tree types also require an overwintering temperature above 10°C. For rooms heated in winter, this is of course no problem, but for most families, it is still very difficult to let these flowers safely pass through the cold winter. Although some flowers will not cause the death of the entire plant after overwintering, due to the effects of low-temperature cold damage, the leaves of the plant will become wilted and listless, lose their proper luster, turn yellow, have scorched leaf tips or leaf edges, or develop new scorched spots on the leaves, and may even cause a large number of fallen leaves or partial death of branches and leaves, thereby losing their ornamental value. Therefore, when there are no stable conditions for heating, you must pay attention to choosing flower types with relatively strong cold resistance. Flowers suitable for hydroponics in ordinary homes include:

Flowers with strong cold resistance

For example, dieffenbachia, star jasmine, palm bamboo, agave, aucuba, jewel flower, sea onion, variegated lilyturf, and so on can withstand low temperatures around 0°C.

Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance

For example, Monstera, purple-leaf inch plant, bamboo leaf, aloe, spider plant, silver wave kalanchoe, umbrella plant, purple velvet plant, dusty miller, golden millet orchid, rainbow cactus, variegated periwinkle, English ivy, parlor palm, and so on can overwinter safely with a little protection during overwintering.

Of course, although some flowers such as red emerald philodendron, green emerald philodendron, arrowhead plant, pothos, snake plant, and croton are relatively difficult to overwinter safely, they are easy to obtain, grow quickly, and have high ornamental value, so they can also be considered for purchase and cultivation when spring is warm.

Shade tolerance issues

Because indoor light conditions are relatively poor, it is appropriate to choose flower types that like semi-shade or tolerate semi-shade. At the same time, even semi-shade-loving or semi-shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity. For example, croton, purple-leaf inch plant, and wandering jew need sufficient scattered light, but peace lily, green giant, Guangdong dieffenbachia, and silver king all have very strong shade tolerance. Because different rooms and different light conditions in rooms vary, suitable flower types should be selected according to the light conditions of the placement position to ensure normal growth of the flowers and maintain good ornamental value. When light is insufficient, it will cause the branches and leaves of the plant to grow leggy, the stems to become thin, the internodes to become longer, the leaves to become smaller and deformed, lose green color and lose their proper luster, the colored stripes on the leaves to fade, and even cause a large number of fallen leaves, thereby seriously affecting the ornamental value of the flowers.

Hydroponic spider plant techniques

Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) has fresh green leaves shaped like orchid leaves, clean and elegant, and is a common favorite houseplant grown for its foliage. It also has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.

1. Container: The container bottle can be single-layer or double-layer. A single-layer bottle is a bottomless plastic bottle or bottomless ceramic bottle used to plant spider plant. For a double-layer bottle, use a plastic sieve as the upper layer and a bottomless bottle as the lower layer, plant the spider plant in the upper plastic sieve, and let the spider plant roots hang down into the bottle.

2. Taking seedlings: Take the potted or field-grown spider plant out of the pot or dig it up from the ground, remove the soil from the roots, wash the roots with clean water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, keep the fibrous roots, cut off part of the leaves (old leaves, pest- and disease-damaged leaves), and keep healthy leaves, generally keeping 6 to 10 leaves.

3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle potting method, insert the prepared spider plant into the bottle, tightly bind the bottle mouth with sponge and insert one plastic straw, which is used for supplying water. Let the spider plant stand upright, put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the bottle, and let the spider plant roots grow immersed in water. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the spider plant on the plastic sieve, let the roots pass through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle, put ceramic granules or stone grains (large particles) in the sieve, let the spider plant stand upright, and put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the lower bottle. After potting is completed, place the spider plant indoors or in a cool place for management.

4. Management:

① Water: For single-layer container bottle cultivation, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, and input the water through the straw until it is full. For the double-layer bottle, change the water once a week; when changing the water, pour out the bottle water, wash the container bottle clean, put in clean water and flower nutrient solution, and then place the plastic sieve on the water bottle.

② Fertilizer: Nutrient solution is added through the roots by adding water and changing water at the same time; for foliar topdressing, spray the branches and leaves with diluted flower nutrient solution once every 3 days.

③ Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, spray the leaves with all-purpose powder mixed with water.

④ Promoting flowering: Spider plant flowers half a year after potting. When flowering, do not spray water on the flowers, to prevent early flower drop. After the flowers fade, cut the flowers off from the branch tips to promote reflowering.

The outstanding plant for static hydroponics

Plants of the Araceae family have 105 genera and more than 2500 species. They originated in tropical Asia and arose in waters or swamps in forest areas. Through a long historical evolution, the vast majority have now developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common excellent ornamental plants (genera) in Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia, Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, and so on. Although the plants of the above genera are all terrestrial, they have extremely close kinship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves wetland species, some have aerial roots, some readily produce adventitious roots, and some readily develop aerenchyma under stress environments.
For terrestrial plants in static hydroponics, root respiration is in a severe state of oxygen deficiency. The prerequisite for success is correctly selecting the plant species, that is, it has close kinship with aquatic plants. Araceae plants have a close kinship with aquatic plants, specifically shown as follows:
First, Araceae plants evolved and developed around aquatic genetic genes. The new Engler system believes that the most primitive in Araceae is Acorus, and the most evolved is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or wetland evergreen herb, the most primitive genus in Araceae, originating in the Old Tropics of the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago), and first arose in aquatic environments. Pistia is found almost throughout the freshwater waters of all continents of the Old and New Worlds. It is the most evolved monotypic genus in Araceae, a floating plant propagated vegetatively, easy to migrate and spread, and with very strong reproductive capacity. In addition, Araceae also includes famous aquatic species such as Acorus gramineus, water taro, and taro.
The evolved Pistia, as an aquatic plant, is not a simple repetition of the primitive Acorus, but a dialectical “negation of the negation”, a repetition on a higher basis. Although the vast majority of species in Araceae grow on land, they all come from aquatic ancestors, and phenomenally form a “negation” of aquatic ancestors. Finally, they transform into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia. This return is another “negation”, which is the dialectical law of the “negation of the negation”. It shows that the opposing poles of aquatic and terrestrial reach unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are outstanding for static hydroponics.
Second, Araceae belongs to Arales, and this order has only two families. The other family in the same order is the aquatic Lemnaceae, and Lemnaceae are floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that Araceae and aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor, and there is an extremely close kinship between them.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, along an approximately spiral curve.
Third, the relationships of Arales in plant classification systems: The Hutchinson system believes that Arales evolved from Liliales, and a small number of aquatic types in Liliales have a parallel developmental relationship with the marsh-dwelling Najadales. The Takhtajan system believes that Arales, Arecales, and Pandanales share a common ancestor (primitive lily-like plants), and can be traced farther back to Magnoliales. The Cronquist system believes that Arales has close kinship with Pandanales and Arecales, and shares a common ancestor with Liliales. From the above classification systems, it can be inferred that Arales has kinship correlations with Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, share a common ancestor with aquatic Lemnaceae, and have kinship correlations with Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic species. Therefore, containing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants outstanding for static hydroponics.

Judging and handling root rot in hydroponics

During hydroponic cultivation, plants often develop root rot due to management and other reasons. For example, excessively low temperature, excessively concentrated fertilizer, and diseases can all cause root rot, and root rot will worsen water quality and affect plant growth. To judge whether roots are rotten: first, smell the roots with the nose; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted; second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also be rotting and deteriorating; third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the root system turns yellow and discolored, it indicates the root system has been damaged. After the root system rots, gently pull at the root crown area, and the epidermis is very easy to tear off, leaving only the lignified part.

After root rot appears, cut it off in time. Generally, root rot gradually rots upward from the root tip. After pruning, cut until normal roots are reached. After changing the water, observe carefully. If root rot continues to appear, handle it promptly.

Simple hydroponic facilities -- bottles and jars and cultivation management

Using waste containers, such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles, white polystyrene hard foam boxes (containers), and so on, with slight adjustment, they can become hydroponic carriers of different sizes and shapes. This not only adapts to local conditions and makes the best use of materials, but can also green the surrounding environment, with a charm that brings one close to nature.

One, bottles and jars

1. Metal beverage cans, wide-mouth glass or plastic bottles, paper foil-lined square beverage boxes, and so on, are originally used to hold liquids. As long as the original contents are rinsed clean, they can be set aside as hydroponic carriers.

2. Planting cup: According to the size of the mouth of the selected container, choose a plastic cold drink cup that fits just about 1/3 into the mouth as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut a “well”-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup so that the root system can extend through this cup bottom into the nutrient solution, while the plant anchoring material will not leak out. The opening also serves a ventilation function.

3. Anchoring the plant: Prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (nonwoven cloth) about 8×12 cm, used for clothing lining. Gently rinse off the soil from the plant seedlings to be hydroponically grown or from purchased potted flowers with soil, without damaging the roots. Wrap and roll the root system with the non-woven fabric, then wrap and thicken the outside with porous plastic sponge (cut scraps from shoulder pads for jackets or cushions for sofas and chairs), or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as thermal insulation material, some yellow, some yellow with white) so that it can fit exactly into the plastic planting cup to anchor the plant. If none of the above items are available, floral foam can also be properly cut to serve as anchoring material. Immerse the non-woven fabric roll wrapping the root system together with the exposed roots into the bottle or jar containing nutrient solution. It must be noted that the nutrient solution surface should maintain a space distance of no less than 1 cm from the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to the success or failure of hydroponics. With the wick absorption effect of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the roots as nutrients. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time, the distance between the liquid surface and the bottom of the planting cup can be larger, about 3 cm.

4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, the bottle body must be covered with a light-blocking material to avoid direct sunlight causing algae growth that competes with the cultivated plants for nutrients. In summer, to prevent a large rise in liquid temperature caused by direct sun exposure, it is best to have shade measures, or place it where sunlight cannot directly shine.

Two, boxes and containers

1. Box body: Usually white hard polystyrene foam boxes used for packaging and shock absorption, or corrugated cardboard boxes or wooden boxes with a certain strength, can all be used. Generally about 35×25×15 cm to 60×40×16 cm. If the box bottom (body) has holes, they can be leveled with wooden boards or foam boards. Line the box with black agricultural film to prevent nutrient solution leakage. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is opaque, the film can be omitted. If there is no black film, other films can also be used as substitutes.

2. Upper cover: The upper cover also serves the function of a planting board. Find a polystyrene foam board of the same area as the box and about 2.5 cm thick to serve as the upper cover and planting board. Open a certain number of planting holes about 6 cm in diameter on the board. As with bottles and jars, it is enough if the selected plastic cold drink cup can be placed in it while about 1/2 of the cup height is exposed. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6?16 holes. In addition, on the side of the upper cover, near the inner side of the box body, open a small hole about 2 cm in diameter for normally observing the nutrient solution level and adding nutrient solution.

3. Planting cup: Material selection and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.

4. Floating board: Take a polystyrene foam board that is 2.5?3 cm smaller on all four sides than the net inner area of the box and 2.5?3 cm thick as the floating board. Open small holes 1?2 cm in diameter regularly on it to increase the air content of the floating board and help the root system extend into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm dry thickness), or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25?50 g/sq m non-woven fabric on the floating board for wick absorption of nutrient solution. If these things really cannot be obtained, medical sterile absorbent gauze can also be used as a substitute. The area of the absorbent cotton layer should extend about 6 cm beyond each side of the floating board, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang freely from all sides of the floating board (like an apron) and dip into the nutrient solution to absorb it, thereby ensuring the formation of a moist layer containing nutrient solution on the floating board. The plant root system can extend freely on the floating board and have more direct contact with air. Another part of the root system can still extend through the four edges of the floating board, or through the small holes in the floating board, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can compensate for the unfavorable environment of general static hydroponics, which cannot circulate nutrient solution and oxygenate.

5. Cultivation management:

(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. At the time of just planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven fabric root roll extending from the planting cup, so that the nutrient solution can be absorbed upward. The highest liquid level must leave a certain space inside the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3?5 cm due to plant absorption and transpiration, nutrient solution should be added until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.

(2) When the nutrients in the nutrient solution change greatly, or when there is precipitation, turbidity, foul odor, or pathogen infection, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, up to complete renewal.

Requirements of hydroponic flowers for a humid environment and good ventilation

Foliage flowers mostly originate from warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to make them grow well. A simple method is to spray the flower leaves. To prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, it can be moved to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, and after spraying, the flowers can be moved back indoors for display. When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets adhere to the leaf surface and do not run down. For relatively firm flower leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera deliciosa and Clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaf surface. For larger flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin filled with clean water can be placed beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can similarly increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. If static hydroponic flowers are placed in a room with doors and windows tightly closed and the air turbid, it is unfavorable to their growth. Especially when people leave home for work during the day, the room does not open doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains. In such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither obtain the needed light nor get enough fresh air, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and growth becomes worse and worse, producing yellowing and falling leaves, and new shoots that are weak and shriveled. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection and let outside fresh air enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with relatively thin leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be carried out in good time. This is beneficial to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers on display especially need to do this work well.

Light requirements of hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly selects relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shady environments. Generally, placing them indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight illumination, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the flower leaves cannot carry out normal photosynthesis and cannot accumulate enough nutrients, resulting in poor growth. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as Coleus and Croton, will lose the color of the leaf surface in a relatively weak light environment and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light and without direct strong light can such flowers maintain bright leaf color.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of placed flowers should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined with cleaning the vessels and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the root system, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

How hydroponic flowers safely overwinter

How hydroponic flowers overwinter

Generally, flowers go dormant below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and tissues begin to necrose below 0 degrees Celsius. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely. In southern China, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not fall below 5 degrees Celsius. If several days of extreme low-temperature weather occur, it can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate. In the north, because most indoor areas have heating, safe overwintering of hydroponic flowers can also be satisfied.

Why hydroponic flowers need water changes

Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer. At the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more numerous. Therefore, after a period of growth, hydroponic flowers need to be given new nutrient solution. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers. The reason soil-cultivated flowers need fertilization and soil replacement once a year is also this. For hydroponic flowers, the interval between water changes should be shorter during the vigorous growth period of spring and summer, and longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

Hydroponic method for cyclamen

Growing cyclamen in water only began to appear in Europe in the last year or two. Because this cultivation method frees cyclamen from traditional flower pots and substrate, it is both clean and beautiful, and can give blooming cyclamen plants multiple cultivation and application forms. As soon as it appeared on the market, it won enthusiastic welcome from consumers. In fact, water cultivation of cyclamen is not difficult. First, choose a satisfactory cyclamen potted flower and prepare a container for hydroponically growing cyclamen. In this way, the preparation work is complete, and one can begin making hydroponic cyclamen. For hydroponic cyclamen, the purchased cyclamen potted flower should be turned out of the pot together with the substrate (flower soil), placed under a faucet and rinsed clean with a relatively gentle stream of water. The plant together with the substrate can also be placed in a basin filled with water, the substrate rinsed off in the water, and then rinsed clean with tap water. Note that throughout the entire process of removing the substrate, the movements must be gentle, trying as much as possible to avoid damaging the cyclamen root system. The rinsed cyclamen plant can then be placed in the previously prepared hydroponic container, water added, and a beautiful hydroponic cyclamen is made.

It should be pointed out that no fertilizer of any kind needs to be added to the water for cultivating cyclamen. The nutrients in the cyclamen corm can allow the cyclamen plant to maintain normal growth and flowering for 4-6 weeks. At the same time, the water surface height should be kept below the corm. Generally, according to the evaporation of water, add water to the container 1-2 times a week to maintain the water surface height.

In fact, in hydroponic cyclamen, the cyclamen plant is only one factor. To make hydroponic cyclamen distinctive in features and outstanding in personality, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessels and the combination method of the cyclamen plants. This all depends on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.

Root-exposed hydroponic method for Hoya

Hoya has always been soil-cultivated. Now, through root-exposed hydroponic trials, it has the following characteristics: ① saves labor; ② hygienic; ③ fewer pests and diseases; ④ simple management; ⑤ long flowering period; ⑥ roots, leaves, and flowers can all be enjoyed, and so on.

The root-exposed hydroponic method is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-grown Hoya, wash it clean with clean water, cut off dead leaves and pest- and disease-damaged leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a bottom hole), put several beautiful river stones at the bottom of the bottle, move the prepared Hoya seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the roots, add clean water, add flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a cool place.

(3) Management: One, spray the leaves with clean water once a day, and after one or two days spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days; two, change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water; three, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the head of the Hoya, half a milliliter each time, and then inject once a month to promote growth, flowering, and prolong the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers fade, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can bloom again.

There is a big difference between flower water cultivation and hydroponics

In recent years, some water-cultivated and hydroponic flowers have been favored by people because they are fresh and environmentally friendly, elegant in style, easy to maintain, and convenient to combine. On the surface, water-cultivated and hydroponic flowers have the same cultivation form, namely liquid maintenance, so many people confuse the two. In fact, they are clearly different.

Flowers used for water cultivation generally have enlarged bulbs, which store abundant nutrients. Their growth and flowering mainly rely on the nutrients stored in themselves. During cultivation, it is only necessary to soak the root system in clean water for fixation, with no need to supply nutrients. Flowers suitable for water cultivation mainly include narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, lucky bamboo, and so on. To make water-cultivated flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom brilliantly, the key is to select fully developed bulbs to provide the nutrient needs of their growth process; second is to change the water frequently, insisting on changing the water once every 2 to 3 days (change the water once every 7 to 10 days for lucky bamboo), maintaining sufficient oxygen content in the water and improving root activity; third is to maintain sufficient sunlight so that they grow robustly.

Hydroponic flowers, by contrast, have the plant roots fixed on the cover board or floating board of the flower pot, with the root system immersed in water, and the water must be provided with reasonable inorganic nutrients, so flower hydroponics is also called nutrient solution culture. The habits and internal structure of flowers suitable for hydroponics are suited to normal growth in water. At present, the main cultivated varieties include Clivia, spider plant, Schlumbergera, Dracaena fragrans, Dieffenbachia, clustered taro, Monstera deliciosa, jade plant, Tradescantia zebrina, Bryophyllum, and other plants.

Northeastern University in China adopted bioengineering mutation technology and, after 8 years of effort, has developed 9 series and more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; including both cactus and succulent plants, and flowering ornamental flowers such as Clivia and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as bromeliads, Anthurium, and Hippeastrum, have also successfully achieved hydroponics. Some flowers with Chinese characteristics, such as Ludisia, have also achieved hydroponic domestication.

For truly well-mutated hydroponic flower plants, the traits of their root systems have already changed, the root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertically growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-cultivated plants, which are distributed in a net-like pattern. After aquatic mutation, the plant's aquatic root genes have been expressed, so the leaves of truly aquatic flower plants become larger and thicker, and the leaves and branches are more tender than those grown in soil.

The key to hydroponic flowers is to prepare the nutrient solution well. When preparing the nutrient solution, never use metal containers or containers that have held grease, acids, or alkalis. When using tap water to prepare nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat chlorides and sulfides in the water. Hydroponic flowers should have the nutrient solution added or changed once a week, and care should be taken to keep the pH value between 5.5 and 6.5. The replaced nutrient solution can be used as fertilizer for other crops.

Brief introduction to flower hydroponic technology

Flower hydroponics is a common type of soilless cultivation. There are many methods. Several commonly used ones are briefly described below.

Deep flow technique: Its characteristics are that the plant root system is wholly or partly immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution is flowing; the nutrient solution is mixed with air to dissolve oxygen.

Nutrient film (NFT) technique: Nutrient film technique was developed from plastic bag technology. A suitable amount of nutrient solution placed in a plastic bag can cultivate plants. On this basis, further improvements were made: the plastic bag was changed to plastic film and laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution is a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution, and part is exposed to moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film is white outside and black inside to wrap the plant, forming a dark internal space.

The advantages are: it better solves the root system's demand for oxygen for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, and the cost is low; plants grow quickly, management is convenient, and it is suitable for large-scale production.

Aeroponics technique: After the nutrient solution is atomized, it is sprayed around the plant root system. The mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the roots. The roots are continuously or discontinuously in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the supply of water, nutrients, and oxygen, and plants grow quickly. Aeroponics can also be used when rooting cuttings.

Glass bottle hydroponic technique: The aqueous solution can use a glass canning jar. Wrap the surroundings of the bottle with black plastic film, or coat it fully with black paint, or paste a layer of black paper, as long as the inside of the bottle is not light-transmitting. Light blocking is beneficial to root growth and avoids algae growth. In summer, wrap the outside of the black bottle with a layer of white paper to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the bottle cap, open a hole in the middle, clamp the plant, cover the bottle cap, and the top of the cap should also be black. Inject nutrient solution into the bottle, not too full, and leave pores for the plant to breathe oxygen. If it is water cutting to promote rooting, then nutrient solution is not necessary; just inject water, and after roots grow, change to nutrient solution. Specific operation process:

Changing solution: For small seedlings, change the nutrient solution once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For mature flowering plants, change once a week during the peak growth period in summer, and once every 1 to 2 weeks in the non-growth season.

Aeration: Open the bottle cap for a moment every morning and evening to let the root system be fully exposed to the air. After a period of adaptation, it can go for more than 1 month continuously without aeration.

Adding water: Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so water should often be added to the bottle to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.

Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution: Fertilizer tablets sold on the market or prepared chemical fertilizers can be used. If conditions permit, it can be prepared by oneself. The formulas are as follows:

Formula 1: (pH value 6-6.5)

Potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.44 g/L; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/L; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/L; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Formula 2: (pH value 6-65)

Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/L; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.27 g/L; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Preparation method of trace element solution:

Boric acid 2.86 g, zinc oxide 0.11 g, manganese chloride 181 g, copper dichloride 0.05 g, sodium molybdate 0.025 g. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 mL water, then dilute to 1000 mL.

Multiple hydroponic methods for flowers

① Water cutting method: This is the simplest and easiest method to succeed. Cut part of the stem or branch from a selected mother flower plant, insert it into water, and under suitable conditions it will root, sprout, and grow into a new plant. When cutting branches, cut 3-5 mm below the node, and the cut surface should be smooth, without longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches with aerial roots, protect the aerial roots well and insert them into water. Epipremnum aureum, lucky bamboo, and so on are all suitable for this hydroponic method.

② Root washing method: Select ornamental, robustly growing flowers already formed by soil cultivation (or other medium cultivation), remove the soil, wash the root system, and then change to hydroponics. It is best to use running water when washing the roots. Plant the washed flowers in a prepared vessel, and inject tap water that covers 2/3-1/2 of the root system. At first, change the clean water once a day, and at the same time wash the roots and vessel. After one week, reduce the frequency of water changes. When the cultivated flowers grow new roots in the water, it shows they have adapted to the hydroponic environment, and water can be changed once every 7-10 days, or even longer.

③ Tiller stripping method: Suitable for flowers with strong tillering ability, such as Clivia and bromeliads. The method is simple, and the survival rate is high. Select a relatively large tiller, remove the upper soil to expose the part connected to the mother plant, strip the tiller from the mother plant by hand or with a sharp blade (protect the roots of the tiller), wash off the soil attached to the roots, and cultivate it hydroponically.

④ Method of taking small plantlets from runners: Some flowers produce runners during growth, and the runners bear one to many small plantlets. Most of the small plantlets have a small amount of fully developed roots. For example, spider plant and hanging bromeliads both have this characteristic. Using this characteristic of flowers, picking formed small plantlets for hydroponics is very simple and convenient.

For hydroponic flowers, it is advisable to choose Monstera deliciosa, Clivia, Epipremnum aureum, Tillandsia, Aglaonema, Tradescantia spathacea, lucky bamboo, spider plant, and bulb flowers such as tulip, lily, hyacinth, Hippeastrum, and gladiolus.

Guide to the difficulties of summer care for hydroponic flowers

One, where are the difficulties of hydroponic flowers getting through summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers use non-solid media (water or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution) to cultivate ornamental plants. At present, household hydroponic flowers are mostly static water cultivation, with dissolved oxygen below 1 mg/l. The flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism becomes vigorous, microorganisms multiply in large numbers, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and water quality deteriorates, forming many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers. This may cause root rot, wilting of branches and leaves, and even death of the entire flower plant. Therefore, in summer, in addition to preventing severe heat and high temperature, increasing the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring that hydroponic flowers safely pass the summer.

Water cultivation of ribbon grass

Two, how to increase the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution?

Answer: There are many ways to increase dissolved oxygen, summarized as chemical methods and physical methods. The following introduces several methods that are easy to operate and effective.

1. Increase the frequency of changing the nutrient solution

Changing the nutrient solution is the simplest method to increase dissolved oxygen. According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70%-90% compared with the original solution, and can promptly improve the physiological oxygen deficiency of flowers.

For flowers that have already grown aquatic roots, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 3-5 days, and at most not more than 7 days. When changing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large; too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorder in the flower root system.

When changing the solution, patiently rinse the root system with clean water, remove withered roots and rotten roots, and shorten aged roots to promote new roots.

If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid, or there are mosquito egg masses or mosquito larvae breeding, new nutrient solution should be changed immediately.

2. Vibration oxygenation

For hydroponic flowers in relatively small vessels, as long as the root system is clear and undamaged and the nutrient solution is transparent, the vibration method can be used to increase oxygen. The operation method is to fix the flower with one hand and hold the vessel with the other hand, gently shaking more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.

For hydroponic flowers with turbid nutrient solution and poor root development, the vibration oxygenation method is not suitable, and the nutrient solution must be completely changed.

3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers

According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/l, while in static water it is only 1 mg/l. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers was designed and made according to this principle. The entire frame is a flower cultivation vessel, with a micro circulation pump installed inside. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipeline. During operation, the nutrient solution circulates and flows in the pipeline, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, the root system maintains a certain liquid level. Cultivating with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly letting hydroponic flowers soak in an “oxygen bar”, and their growth is obviously better than static hydroponics.

The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers is generally cleaned and has its solution changed once every 30-35 days.

4. Aerate the vessel

If, while cultivating hydroponic flowers, there is also a tank of ornamental fish nearby, the spare air outlet pipe of the fish tank air pump can be connected with a rubber tube, and the air stone put into the static hydroponic flower vessel for aeration (the airflow should not be too strong, to avoid splashing the nutrient solution). Using the flow of air to increase oxygen also has a good effect.

Three, what position is suitable for placing hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: The flower materials selected for hydroponic flowers are mostly shade-tolerant foliage flowers and flowers grown for both flowers and leaves. Such as Syngonium, Aglaonema commutatum, Spathiphyllum, Anthurium, bromeliads, and so on. These flowers like warmth and humidity, are slightly tolerant of shade, and avoid high temperature and dry heat. “Hydroponics” only changes the cultivation form, and cannot change their growth habits and required environmental factors. In summer, it is best to place hydroponic flowers in an environment with bright light, slightly higher humidity, relatively cool, and good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but do not make it too shady, lest flower photosynthesis be blocked, growth become weak, stem nodes elongate, and leaf texture become thin. This causes the leaves of flowers with colored patches and variegated patterns to lose their luster.

Four, can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?

Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly facing the air outlet of the air conditioner. Too fast wind speed can damage branches and leaves, ranging from curled leaves to scorched edges and withering in severe cases. It is also necessary to consider that the temperature requirements of flowers are higher during the day than at night. If the air conditioner is turned off at night and the ambient temperature is higher than the daytime temperature when the air conditioner is on, it is unfavorable to the growth of hydroponic flowers.

When the air conditioner is turned on, place a basin of clean water beside the flowers or spray the leaf surface to increase environmental humidity, and place the flowers farther from the air conditioner outlet. If the temperature difference between day and night is not large, there is no problem.

Five, what should be done if hydroponic flowers develop root rot?

Answer: As the temperature continuously rises, the water temperature will also rise, microorganism cultivation accelerates, dissolved oxygen decreases, and water quality deteriorates. Improperly adding nutrient solution makes the dissolved concentration too high, which may cause root rot in hydroponic flowers, especially in Liliaceae plants such as Cordyline fruticosa, Cordyline stricta (fine-leaf Dracaena), and Dracaena concinna.

For flowers with root rot, the following methods can be used to restore their growth:

① Remove all rotten roots. If the stem has already been infected, also use a sharp knife to cut off the infected part.

② Immerse the pruned flower in 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10-20 minutes to sterilize.

③ Take out the soaked flowers and rinse them under running water.

④ Place the cleaned flowers back into the original container and grow them in clean water (the container should be washed clean).

⑤ Change the water once every 1 to 2 days, using only clean water without adding nutrient solution. If the water is clear, the frequency of water changes can be reduced. After 10 to 15 days of care, new roots can begin to emerge.

⑥ While the new roots are first emerging, continue to grow them in clean water; once the temperature stabilizes at 18 to 25°C, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

Six: What should be done if algae grow in the nutrient solution?

Answer: Algae growth in the nutrient solution is a common phenomenon during the cultivation of hydroponic flowers. Especially in summer, when temperatures are high, the container is highly transparent, the environment is bright, or the time between nutrient solution changes is too long, algae can proliferate massively. Algae compete with the flowers for oxygen, and their secretions pollute the solution, degrading the quality of the nutrient solution. Algae attached to the flower roots hinder root respiration and interfere with the normal physiological activities of the flowers, causing great harm.

Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, promptly pour out the contaminated solution, thoroughly clean the container, brush off the algae attached to the roots, and replace with fresh nutrient solution.

At present, Chinese scientists are researching a kind of "algae-eating bug" that can filter-feed on algae, known as a natural "nemesis" of algae damage. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, adding a small amount of "algae-eating bugs" to the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can eliminate algae growth.

Algae reproduction depends on good light. Using a baffle or old newspaper to shade the hydroponic flower container and avoid direct strong light will relatively reduce the chances of algae growth.

Seven: What fertilizer should be used for hydroponic flowers? How should fertilizer be applied in summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special cultivation form, a cultivation method belonging to soilless culture. The roots of the flowers are anchored in water (or a dedicated plant nutrient solution), so it is also called nutrient solution cultivation.

Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with a matching plant nutrient solution. However, different flowers require different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If five or six, or even a dozen bottles of hydroponic flowers of various varieties are cultivated at the same time, it is unrealistic to buy a matching plant nutrient solution for each flower. For the sake of simplicity, a general-purpose plant nutrient solution can be chosen.

General-purpose plant nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including macroelements and microelements), with a balanced ratio of various elements, inorganic salts in ionic form, and a wide range of applications. They are suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages, are non-toxic and harmless, and have a pH value and ion concentration favorable for nutrient absorption.

There are many types of plant nutrient solutions on the market, with varying quality. It is best to go to a specialty hydroponic flower shop to choose products from manufacturers with a good reputation.

There are differing views on whether to use nutrient solution or only clean water for cultivation in summer. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures and grow vigorously, use nutrient solution cultivation; for flowers with fine roots that are in a semi-dormant or dormant state at around 30°C, use only clean water cultivation. For example, silver vase plant (Spathiphyllum), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), mini monstera (Monstera), red gem (Philodendron), and Philodendron species, using nutrient solution cultivation is suitable for maintaining growth vigor and enhancing ornamental quality. For coleus (Coleus), bamboo begonia (Begonia), and bromeliads, a bottle of clean water is enough for them to pass through summer safely.

When mixing the nutrient solution, strictly follow the ratio indicated in the instructions; do not arbitrarily increase the concentration. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers that emerge under hydroponic conditions has changed, being looser and with larger cells than under soil cultivation. The cell walls become thinner, directly absorbing water, nutrients, and oxygen from the nutrient solution, making them extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution; excessive concentration is harmful to the flowers. As long as the concentration of macroelements is not lower than the level of 1 micromole per liter, a lower concentration is beneficial to flower growth.

In summer, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 5 days.

Eight: Can soil-cultivated flowers be converted to hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Converting soil-cultivated flowers to hydroponic flowers is most suitable in spring and autumn, when the temperature is around 15 to 25°C, suitable for flower growth, and the flowers easily adapt to the changed cultivation environment. To change the cultivation form of flowers in summer, the following factors should be considered: ① Select varieties with a relatively close genetic relationship to wetland flowers. ② Select flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at around 30°C. Experiments have shown that Syngonium (Syngonium podophyllum), mini monstera (Monstera), red gem Philodendron (Philodendron), green giant (Philodendron), pothos (Epipremnum aureum) of the Araceae family, and some bromeliad flowers have a relatively high survival rate when converted from soil cultivation to hydroponics in summer. They adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, and their roots rarely rot. After 15 to 20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from the old roots, but water roots can also emerge from the root stem ends.

When converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics, the soil around the flower roots should be cleaned off thoroughly. Rinse repeatedly, protecting the roots from damage or minimizing damage. Use a container with a larger capacity for cultivation, change the water once a day, and after five days, change the water once every 2 to 3 days. When the water roots grow to 5 cm long, cultivate with a low-concentration plant nutrient solution.

Hydroponic method for lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana)

Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as Wan Shou Zhu, native to Brazil and western Africa.

Characteristics

Evergreen shrub. The plant form is slender and upright, unbranched. Leaves are long lanceolate, dark green, with sheath-like petioles. Common types include golden-edged lucky bamboo, with yellow longitudinal stripes on the leaves. Silver-edged lucky bamboo, also known as silver-striped bamboo dracaena, is a compact plant with silver-white longitudinal stripes along the leaf edges.

Habits

Prefers high temperatures and high humidity; the overwintering temperature should be kept above 10°C. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, otherwise it will cause leaf scorch.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: When the air is too dry, it will cause leaf scorch. During the growing period, water should be sprayed on the leaf surface frequently.

2: Suitable for ample diffused light; when light is insufficient, the color of striped varieties will fade.

Hydroponic method for anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum)

Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as Anzu flower, lampstand flower.

Characteristics

Perennial evergreen herb. Internodes are short, and leaves grow from the base of the plant. Leaves are round-cordate or ovate, dark green. The flower stalk grows from the leaf axil. The spathe is upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet, and the spadix is yellow and extends straight.

Habits

Prefers high temperatures, high humidity, and a semi-shaded environment; avoid direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and overwintering should be above 10°C.

Propagation

Division, tissue culture.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Not cold-tolerant; in winter, heating and warmth must be provided.

2: Prefers relatively high air humidity and a semi-shaded environment.

Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials

Use the potted root-washing method.

Hydroponic method for azalea (Rhododendron)

The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used solid substrate for soilless cultivation of azaleas and achieved very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea (Rhododendron). The soilless-cultivated plants had compact crown structure, abundant flowering, large flower diameter, and few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor, making it a cultivation method worth vigorously promoting.

1. Preparation of substrate

Azalea roots are very fine and require loose substrate to facilitate aeration and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder mixed in proportion. After mixing, sterilize the substrate with 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse multiple times with clean water, and after air-drying, mix evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, then cover with plastic film for one month before it can be used for potting.

2. Preparation of nutrient solution

Azaleas have relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing period, apply thin fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH value at around 5, and spraying low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.

Preparation of macroelements: Add 2 g of agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g of magnesium sulfate to 1 liter of water as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: Add 20 g of disodium edetate, 15 g of ferrous sulfate, 4 g of manganese sulfate, 6 g of boric acid, 0.2 g of zinc sulfate, 0.1 g of copper sulfate, and 0.2 g of ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the mother solution. When using, add 1 mL of trace element mother solution to 1 liter of standard solution to make the complete element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: Add 1 g of urea, 1 g of monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g of boric acid, and 0.1 g of V.B1 to 1 liter of water.

3. Water and fertilizer management

Because the substrate has good drainage and aeration but poor water retention, the amount of watering is generally more than soil cultivation, just enough to keep the substrate moist. At this time, it is during bud formation and leaf bud sprouting, requiring a relatively large amount of fertilizer, so water with complete nutrient solution once every 10 days or so. From March until the buds break, spray foliar fertilizer once every 15 days or so. After flowering, water demand is high; in addition to daily watering, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, fertilizer demand is also high, so it can be changed to watering with nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote sturdy new branches and facilitate flower bud differentiation. After the dog days begin, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and spray water on the leaves; fertilizer application can be reduced to watering with nutrient solution once every 20 days or so. After the autumn cools, gradually increase the amount of fertilizer, apply complete nutrient solution once every half month, and spray foliar fertilizer 1-2 times to promote healthy flower bud growth. After winter begins, azalea physiological activity is weak, so fertilization is not suitable; just water appropriately according to the dryness and wetness of the substrate. During the cultivation process, pests and diseases basically did not occur.

Hydroponic method for broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa)

Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as Guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places.

Characteristics

Evergreen clumping shrub. The stem is cylindrical, unbranched, with nodes like bamboo, covered with brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, like palm fiber. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, leathery, dark green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4-10 lobes. Dioecious.

Habits

Prefers a warm, shady, humid, and well-ventilated environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C. In winter it should be kept above 4°C, and it can tolerate short periods of low temperature around 0°C.

Propagation

Generally by division combined with repotting. Choose plants with large clumps and dense stems. First take the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, cut as few roots as possible, and keep the divided plants with a certain plant shape. Then repot them again. After watering thoroughly, place them in a semi-shaded, humid place, and frequently spray water on the leaves. After they resume growth, they can be transferred to normal care.

Sowing is done in autumn after the seeds mature, sowing in pots immediately after collection. Move them into a greenhouse in winter, and seedlings emerge the following spring.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Tolerant of shade, but when light is too weak, yellow leaves are likely to appear; when ventilation is poor, parasitic pests breed.

2: During the growing period, water should be sprayed on the leaf surface frequently.

Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials

Suitable for potted root-washing. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard in texture and not easy to rot after hydroponics, but new roots emerge slowly, taking as long as one and a half months.

Hydroponic method for velvet plant (Gynura aurantiaca)

Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.

Characteristics

Velvet plant is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick, many-branched stems. Leaves are opposite, long ovate. The leaf margins have relatively coarse double serrations. It is named for its stems and leaves densely covered with purple-red fine hairs like velvet. Velvet plant has bright, beautiful, and elegant coloration, making it an excellent flower type for indoor cultivation.

Habits

Velvet plant likes ample sunlight, but during high temperatures in summer and autumn, it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment. Direct sunlight will cause leaf scorch due to sunburn, but when too shaded, the plant will fade and turn green. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 10°C.

Propagation

Velvet plant is propagated by cuttings. During growth, select sturdy branches, cut 10 cm long shoot tips as cuttings, and after cutting, place them in a shaded, humid place; they can root in 2-3 weeks. After the cuttings grow, pinch the tips promptly to promote lateral branch sprouting.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Branches can be cut and inserted into water, and water roots can grow in just over 10 days. However, roots are prone to rot during high summer temperatures.

2: Velvet plant grows rapidly. When the branches reach an appropriate height, pinch the tips promptly to promote new shoot sprouting.

Hydroponic method for parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans)

Palmae, Chamaedorea genus, also known as dwarf coconut, etc. Native to Mexico and Venezuela.

Characteristics

Evergreen small tree, with a dwarf plant form. The stem is slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring patterns. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, pinnately compound, with 20-40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green, and glossy.

Habits

Prefers a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C. At 13°C it enters dormancy. The minimum overwintering temperature in winter is 3°C.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn withered and yellow, but when too shaded, the leaf color will also fade.

2: Parlor palm is most beautiful at a plant height of 30-50 cm. When the plant is too tall, the lower part becomes bare and reduces ornamental value. When cultivating, small plants can be grown below.

Obtaining hydroponic materials

Use the potted root-washing method. After washing with water, new roots can grow within a few days.

Hydroponic method for cactus (cactus ball)

We know that cactus balls are favored for their unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance. However, due to traditional cultivation methods, cactus balls have problems such as being dirty and difficult to manage, and more people lose their beloved plants because they cannot manage fertilizer and water well. Now cactus ball cultivation has entered a new stage: hydroponics.

1: Selecting the mother plant

First, choose a cactus ball with a sturdy body. The key is to choose a plant whose lower root-stem part protrudes downward. Cactus balls grafted and cultivated with three-ribbed sword are easier to hydroponically cultivate.

2: Treatment

After selecting the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots at the bottom of the ball, requiring a flat cut. Then rinse the soil attached to the root-stem part with clean water, and dry it in a dry place for 3 days so that the cut is completely dry.

3: Hydroponics

Prepare a glass bottle of suitable size, or process a mineral water bottle. Fix the selected and treated cactus ball at the bottle mouth with floral foam or foam, add nutrient solution below, with the height of the nutrient solution just reaching the root-stem part. In production, we recommend making a glass water trough 60-100 cm long and 20 cm wide (transparent containers make it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root-stem part), and prepare a children's foam puzzle board or white construction foam board. Use a sharp knife to dig several small triangular holes in the board (for fixing golden barrel cactus, you can cut off the mouth of a used purified water bottle and use it upside down; note: cut off the bottle mouth so that the roots of the golden barrel cactus can be exposed from the cut bottle mouth, then place it in a flat bottle containing nutrient solution). Insert the three-ribbed sword into the triangular holes; at this time, the roots of all three-ribbed swords just contact the liquid surface.

4. Post-hydroponic treatment

Buy two magnets with a diameter of 6-10 cm and put them into the container, in order to magnetize the nutrient solution and thereby accelerate the emergence of water roots. (You can also buy a small wall-mounted submersible pump specially for ecological fish tanks from the market, attach it to the inner wall of the nutrient solution, and turn on the power to achieve flowing, oxygen-carrying circulation of the nutrient solution.)

5: Key points for hydroponic care

Place the planted cactus ball in an environment with relatively strong diffused light, keep the temperature above 20°C, and generally water roots will emerge in 3-7 days. After water roots appear, immediately replace the nutrient solution.

Note:

During the induction process of cactus balls, it is strictly forbidden to spray water on the ball body, as it can easily cause the ball to rot and die.

What should be noted when cultivating clivia (Clivia miniata) hydroponically at home?

Hydroponic clivia is a clean and convenient cultivation method. When cultivating at home, note the following:

① Container selection. The bottom of the cultivation container should have no holes, and transparent ones are preferable, so that you can view the leaves, flowers, and roots. Glass bottles can be used; non-toxic plastic bottles or ceramic containers can also be used. The size of the container depends on the size of the plant, and the mouth diameter should not be too large.

② The cultivation solution. Nutrient solution or clean water can be used, but when cultivating in clean water, attention must be paid to foliar fertilization to supply the nutrients needed for clivia growth.

③ Changing the solution. Hydroponic clivia needs regular solution changes. The number of changes depends on weather conditions. When the temperature is lower, change about once a month; when the temperature is higher, change once every 10 days. When changing the solution, be careful to wash the cultivation container clean.

How to scientifically hydroponically cultivate amaryllis (Hippeastrum)

In early winter, select one or several large amaryllis bulbs that have flowered or not yet flowered, cut off all roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal white and green, and soak them in clean water. After about 48 hours, take the bulbs out, wash off the paste-like substance at the cuts with clean water, dry them in the shade, and place them in a flower vessel. The flower vessel can be a bowl, basin, or narcissus pot, etc. Put in washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing mountain stones, etc., then place the treated amaryllis bulbs on top. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if using tap water, it must have been left standing for several days). The depth of the water should be enough to cover the small stones and other padding, or about 1 cm below the upper rim of the flower vessel. Finally, place it in a place with ample indoor light. Keep the room temperature at about 10°C, and in about 7-10 days leaves will begin to grow and roots will develop. The water in the pot should always be kept at the original water level line. When the leaves grow to 2-3 cm, fertilizer should be supplemented promptly. Every 10-20 days, when adding water, add an appropriate amount of 1% urea solution or 0.03% monopotassium phosphate solution or other compound fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulbs with roots into flower pots for conventional care. In this way, hydroponically treated bulbs bloom slightly later than other conventionally potted amaryllis, just in time for the summer flowering gap period.

Technical management of hydroponics

1. What is hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics, also called soilless culture or nutrient solution cultivation, is an agricultural production technique that uses nutrient solution and supporting facilities instead of soil to cultivate crops. In order to fix the plants and increase air content, most hydroponic plants also use inert sand, gravel, peat, perlite, etc. as solid substrate, so it is also called sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, etc.
Since the beginning of human planting history, crops have been grown in soil, so the English word agriculture is composed of Agr (soil) and Culture (cultivation), forming Agriculture. In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used 3 different kinds of water, namely rainwater, river water, and garden soil leachate, to grow mint. As a result, the mint grown in garden soil leachate grew fastest, thus concluding that "plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil." Unfortunately, due to technical limitations at the time, Woodward did not conduct further research. It was not until 1859-1865 that German scientists Sachs and Knop first conducted precise experiments in soilless cultivation. They succeeded in cultivating plants with an artificial nutrient solution made from inorganic salts and called this method hydroponics. Sachs and Knop are therefore recognized as the founders of soilless cultivation technology.

◆2. What are hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are flowers grown using soilless cultivation techniques. Hydroponic flowers are further divided into hydroponic flowers with medium and hydroponic flowers without medium. Hydroponics with medium refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc. mentioned earlier; hydroponic flowers without medium are further divided into direct hydroponic flowers, floating hydroponic flowers, planting basket hydroponic flowers, atomized hydroponic flowers, drip irrigation under nutrient film, and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its advantages and disadvantages, but if measured only by beauty, durability, and suitability for home cultivation, direct hydroponics is the most fashionable, beautiful, and simple, so hydroponic plants currently sold on the market are generally in direct hydroponic form.

◆3. Why is nutrient solution the key to the success of hydroponic flowers?
Answer: We all know that under greenhouse conditions, when inert substrate is used as the medium, soilless cultivation is already a very simple and mature technology, because computers control humidity, temperature, light intensity, nutrient solution injection time, etc. in real time, and specialized technicians use pH meters, conductivity meters, etc. to test the pH of the nutrient solution and the balance of various elements in real time. However, under home conditions, these conditions are difficult to achieve. First, if hydroponic flowers placed in the home still use substrate cultivation, then there is no aesthetic difference from soil cultivation, so home hydroponic flowers should be soilless cultivation without medium. Without medium, plants are very prone to root rot and odor; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants not to rot roots, not to emit odor, to be free of peculiar smells, and to grow normally when oxygen is lacking. In addition, the hygiene needs of the home require that the nutrient solution should not easily breed mosquitoes and insects and should be non-toxic. Moreover, home lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, so the nutrient solution is required to lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis so that it can also grow well in office and home environments. Furthermore, it is impossible to require every user to have specialized botanical knowledge like a botany expert, so the nutrient solution must also be convenient to use, easy to operate, and easy for anyone to learn. Therefore, hydroponic flowers suitable for home cultivation have higher technical requirements for the nutrient solution.
Since humans mastered soilless cultivation technology, scientists have successfully researched no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but formulas that simultaneously meet the above requirements are very rare; moreover, due to commercial interests, major flower companies regard their nutrient solution technology as their top secret technology, so nutrient solution formulas obtainable from public materials are only theoretical or experimental formulas that can only serve as reference material and cannot be used in production activities. In fact, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home environments can be known with just a try. You only need to see whether the displayed plants grow vigorously and whether water roots grow, because as the saying goes: "Practice is the only criterion for testing truth!"

◆4. How can hydroponic flowers overwinter safely?
Answer: Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8°C, and tissues begin to necrose below 0°C. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5°C, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not fall below 5°C. If extreme low-temperature weather occurs for a few days, it can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; in the north, because most indoors have heating, it can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.

◆5. Can hydroponic flowers only be certain specific flowers?
Answer: In modern greenhouses, generally speaking, all our common popular flowers can be grown hydroponically. But in a home environment, because certain specific conditions cannot be met, at present only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be grown, and in homes with a balcony there are more suitable varieties.

◆6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in hydroponic flowers? How should water changes and regular feeding be handled?
Answer: Because the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Every one of our specialty stores has a sample of fish kept in hydroponic flowers, precisely to convey this information to customers.
Generally speaking, only hydroponic flowers with a volume of more than 1 liter are suitable for keeping fish, and because the volume is limited, the fish species should also be chosen selectively. Fish species with strong adaptability should be chosen, such as goldfish, small koi, etc. Fish that are aggressive or highly destructive are also not suitable for keeping in hydroponic flowers, because they will harm the plant roots; and delicate fish are also not suitable, because keeping them in a dedicated aquarium is already difficult enough to succeed at, let alone in a relatively poor-condition small vase. Water changes can be done at the same time as the normal water changes for the flowers, and feeding is the same as when we normally keep fish in a fish tank, with no difference at all.
Because the special substances in the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of the water, which benefits the respiration of plant roots, fish generally will not lack oxygen in the nutrient solution, so on days that are not especially hot there is no need to install aeration equipment.

◆7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic Flower King nutrient solution is a highly concentrated liquid and must be diluted before use; when diluting, generally tap water can fully meet the requirements, and there is absolutely no need to use bottled water or purified water. If well water or river water is used, then a water quality test must be carried out to understand the mineral content composition in the water. If the content of a certain mineral in the water exceeds the standard, then the nutrient solution formula must be adjusted to facilitate the normal growth of the plants.
During the dilution process, tap water can be used directly to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine in the water to evaporate, because the unique formula in Hydroponic Flower King will cause the chlorine in tap water to evaporate rapidly. However, if the water temperature and room temperature differ too much, then the diluted nutrient solution should be left to stand indoors for a period of time, to prevent the plant roots from suffering root hair damage due to a sudden temperature change, which would cause the plant to wilt.

◆8. What is planting-basket hydroponics?
Answer: Planting-basket hydroponics is a hydroponic cultivation method that uses the principle of hydrotropism of plant roots. The principle of hydrotropism is that the root tips of plants always grow toward the direction where water is abundant. This is shown when a plant's surface soil lacks water: in order to protect itself, its root tips will grow deeper into the soil, to absorb the water needed for the plant's growth and development and adapt to natural changes. At this time the root growth has a very obvious directionality; whereas plants growing in swamps or water do not lack water, so their root growth is more chaotic, without obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, without the bottom needing to directly contact the water, with a gap of about 1-2 cm, and do not water the bonsai but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week or so, the bottom of the bonsai will show roots growing toward the water. At this time you do not need to add water; let its roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops; if you use some fast-growing plants for the experiment, the effect will be even more obvious. Similarly, you take a bonsai that has already grown full of water roots, remove it from the pot, and use a planting basket to fix the plant in place, and decorate it with stones or ornaments, and it becomes a pot of planting-basket hydroponic flowers. The difference is that at this time, because there is no soil, you need to replace the clear water with nutrient solution, and that is just how simple it is.

◆9. Why do hydroponic flowers need water changes?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution will become fewer and fewer, and at the same time, because of root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water will become more and more, so hydroponic flowers need to have their nutrient solution replaced after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as for soil-cultivated flowers; the reason soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and repotting once a year is also this. For hydroponic flowers, during the vigorous growing spring and summer the water change interval should be shorter, and in autumn and winter when growth is slow it can be longer.

◆10. Why do hydroponic flowers sometimes become weaker and weaker or show sluggish growth?
Answer: It may be caused by your nutrient solution change interval being too long, the nutrient solution ratio being wrong (too dilute or too concentrated), or the light being too weak. If these factors are ruled out, then you should see whether the nutrient solution water level is too high, preventing the plant roots from respiring normally and causing oxygen deficiency; if none of these are the case, then we suggest you had best go to a Hydroponic Flower King specialty store for consultation.

Exposing the hydroponic flower market -- distinguishing true from fake hydroponic flowers

At present many companies are developing franchise stores for hydroponic flowers, causing a great commotion across the country, especially a certain company in Beijing whose franchise stores will spread throughout the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to express many opinions, but in order to safeguard the healthy development of our country's hydroponic flowers, after witnessing everything I cannot help but voice some complaints. Because the scams involved not only harm consumers' interests, but will also cast a shadow over the hydroponic industry. At present it is the low-temperature season, plant respiration is weak, and after washing the roots and directly soaking the plants in water they can be kept in water for a period of time. Plants with strong flooding tolerance, such as Araceae plants, can be kept in water for 1-2 months, but once the weather turns hot, plant physiological respiration becomes strong, and root rot due to oxygen deficiency will immediately appear. A hydroponic work bought home for dozens or hundreds [yuan] is only a fleeting flash in the pan, not only harming consumers' interests, but also greatly affecting the development of the hydroponic industry. Now let us use a scientific perspective to reveal the "deception tricks" in it.

1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. Once winter comes, these plants' growth rate slows, respiration weakens, and in addition Araceae plants are relatively closely related to aquatic plants and have strong flooding tolerance. After washing the roots and directly soaking them in water, for a time no

2. Franchise sales charging high franchise fees is itself a form of commercial hype. If the goods are genuine and the price fair, there is nothing to criticize; if the technology is unique, it can also dominate the market and truly have the meaning of franchising. But the current kind of franchising can be called a money scam. First, the technology has no scientific or technological content at all, it is just washing roots and soaking them in water, something even a fool can see through and replicate at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, hydroponic technology itself has undergone decades of development and is no longer a technology exclusive to any one company. Adopting a franchise simply cannot monopolize the market; other hydroponic flower shops can operate just the same, and with better funding and more reliable technology than franchise stores. Once the franchise fee is paid, it is as good as gone with the wind. Truly hydroponic flowers are not suited to long-distance transport. In fact, what they are selling now is all soil-grown seedlings with washed roots; it might be more accurate to call them bare-root flowers.

3. Tip: Araceae plants can still be kept in water for a period after their roots are washed in late autumn, winter and early spring. Everyone might as well give it a try; there is simply no need for any decoy solution.

I have studied hydroponics for many years and have also visited several countries abroad where hydroponic technology is relatively advanced. Our country's current hydroponic market can be said to be full of charlatans of every description, a jumble of the genuine and the fake. But in the end, these franchise scams will still be cleared out by history and science. A reminder to everyone to keep your eyes open and not be led astray by decoy solutions.

How to distinguish genuine from fake hydroponic flowers

Genuine versus fake hydroponic flowers is essentially the difference between induced flowers and non-induced flowers. At present, many hydroponic flower dealers do not understand hydroponic flowers from a scientific perspective, but start only from the angle of commercial hype and personal profit, passing off some ordinary soil-cultivated plants as hydroponic plants for sale, fooling consumers and creating a very bad social impact. After some citizens buy them at high prices, the plants die from physiological discomfort after being kept only a short while, seriously hindering the healthy development of the hydroponic flower industry. To address this problem, buyers can distinguish genuine from fake in the following aspects to avoid being deceived.

A. Judge genuine from fake by root morphology: Induced hydroponic flowers usually exist in the form of fibrous adventitious roots, and unlike roots in soil, they do not divide into taproots, lateral roots, capillary roots and root hairs, that is, they do not exist as multi-order branched secondary roots. Even if there is branching, it is only a small number of forked roots based on fibrous adventitious roots, with few orders and a simple root structure, which is its most obvious feature. In addition, for some plants that originally had radicles, the number of first-order adventitious roots increases markedly after induction, meaning the proportion of roots rises greatly, the root system is numerous and well developed, resembling a beard.

B. Judge genuine from fake by root color: Plant water roots formed by aquatic induction mostly have the characteristic of being white and tender. Even for some varieties that show their natural root color, their water roots are noticeably paler than land roots, such as yellowish white, pale yellow, pale brown, etc. This is related to the well-developed parenchyma tissue of water roots and the fact that cell walls have undergone little or no thickening, suberization or lignification.

C. Judge genuine from fake by root integrity: Roots induced aquatically undergo renewed growth and differentiation starting from primary adventitious roots, and all of it is completed in a water environment, so the root system is complete. Some soil-cultivated plants, even if carefully rinsed, still always have slight damage or serious residual roots; such root integrity is difficult for soil-washed seedlings to achieve.

D. Judge genuine from fake by water clarity: Fake hydroponic works made from soil-washed seedlings, because the roots have not developed adaptability to water, will in an anaerobic environment discharge large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites through anaerobic respiration, causing the water in the container to quickly become cloudy or spoil. Visually it appears turbid and not clear, that is, the water quality deteriorates or becomes foul, and then the roots rot until the plant dies.

E. Leaf angle can also be used to judge genuine from fake: Especially for many herbaceous flowers that are extremely sensitive to ethylene, after induction their leaf insertion angle is noticeably more flat than that of soil-washed seedlings from soil cultivation, that is, epinastic growth causes the angle to increase, or even to droop.

Increasing the dissolved oxygen content of hydroponic nutrient solution

Apart from the requirements for light, temperature and humidity being exactly the same as soil cultivation, hydroponic flowers have completely different management requirements for water, fertilizer and oxygen.—— Water: Home-grown hydroponic flowers should use soft water as the water source, and generally tap water meeting national standards can be used. Tap water has undergone filtration, sedimentation and sterilization treatment; it is clean and hygienic, with a pH below 7, and can be safely used to grow hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, pond water and well water are polluted to varying degrees, severely eutrophic, and various ions may differ greatly. If the content of any one ion exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage the plants or poison them to death, so they are not suitable as a water source for hydroponic flowers. Fertilizer: Home-grown hydroponic flowers must use a low-concentration special nutrient solution based mainly on nitrate nitrogen fertilizer. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth, with a balanced ratio of various elements and inorganic salts in ionic form, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and their various growth and development stages. They are also non-toxic, harmless, and of appropriate pH, which favors nutrient absorption. It is inadvisable to crush soil fertilizers or granular chemical fertilizers and use them for hydroponic flowers. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on the flowers, but long-term application will inevitably hinder normal physiological metabolism. The use of organic fertilizers as a fertilizer source for hydroponic flowers is even less permissible. Diluted urine can be used for foliar spraying, but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: In home-grown hydroponic flowers, the water (nutrient solution) is in a static state, and the dissolved oxygen is below /ppm/L. The flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel, and their roots are commonly seen growing in reverse, extending toward the liquid surface in search of more oxygen to breathe. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of the hydroponic nutrient solution is very necessary for the normal growth of flowers, especially in summer. There are several simple and easy ways to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of changing the nutrient solution. 2. Oxygenate by shaking: fix the flower plant with one hand, and with the other hand gently shake the vessel more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a miniature submersible pump or an oxygen pump (both standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution. In such an environment, plant roots can obtain sufficient oxygen, respiration is very vigorous, and the flowers are prompted to grow robustly.

See through fake hydroponic flower technology at a glance

For hydroponic flowers, growing flowers and fish together, combining movement and stillness, is the first impression it gives. The earliest concept in China first sprouted around the turn of the 21st century (although some people earlier grew some Araceae plants and lucky bamboo and other plants easy to keep in water in water, this concept does not belong to the "hydroponic flower" concept popular now!). It rose in 2003, when many enterprises and units with market vision turned one after another to preliminary research and planning work in this industry. Coupled with the broadcast of "Hydroponic Flowers" on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it flourished from 2004 to 2005. Hydroponic flowers could be said to bloom everywhere in China, with some providing technical study and training, some producing at bases, and some franchising flower shops. Many fake hydroponic flower companies, enterprises and individuals, spurred by profit, put on shows in the market. On the one hand, they added fuel to the hype of the domestic hydroponic flower market concept, letting many citizens understand and recognize this newly born concept and product; on the other hand, many investors and operators became victims of this market tide. As for 2006, the great waves washed away the sand; those with their own core technology and production capacity, and with relatively strong economic strength and operating ability, could still remain in such a chaotic market tide, and those who remained were very few. However, hydroponic flowers, such a fashionable flower product, represent a new trend and new current in the development of the flower industry. Driven by economic interests in the market economy, there are still a small number of speculators existing in the market!

The author has been in this trade for three or four years and is relatively familiar with this industry. In view of the uneven quality of the current hydroponic flower market, this article makes a systematic analysis and summary, all in order to give the general public who love hydroponic flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the hydroponic flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding, for everyone's reference:

Two, what are truly hydroponic flowers?

From a sensory point of view, using glass vases of various shapes, with plants and flowers grown on top (at present, the range of varieties for hydroponic technology has been extended to include other woody plants, vines, succulents and other plants), and a few lovely small fish kept below, that is hydroponic flowers (plants)! But from a technical level, truly hydroponic flowers refer to plants cultivated and grown through various biological, physical, computer and other technical means, so that the physiological traits of their root systems change and they have water roots with plant aerenchyma tissue, and can adapt to long-term cultivation in water, only then can they become truly hydroponic flowers (plants)!

Three, how to identify truly hydroponic flowers?

Judging from the senses:
Report on the current state of hydroponic flower technology. One, introduction:
A successful truly hydroponic plant, after induction and domestication, should have a root system that is white and elegant, with more fibrous roots, and is very obviously different from soil-cultivated plants, whose roots are all relatively dark black in color! (Except for the few plants whose root color has its own distinctive color, such as red-leaf loropetalum, which after induction is deep red from its roots to its branches and stem segments! There are also some plants whose roots, after the soil is removed, are close to white in color!)

In addition, if the plant's growth condition is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, it shows that it was only just planted in the bottle not long ago, placed there to deceive users! Even if it has undergone induction, it cannot be sold as a commodity!

Judging from the technology:

1) Whether it possesses a professional technical level

If, as some merchants say, all that is needed is a so-called "induction solution", "domestication solution" or "nutrient solution", soaking the plant in water for a few days or a few hours, and some even say that hydroponic flowers can be achieved in just a few dozen minutes or a few minutes, such a claim can only fool those who do not understand biotechnology. Anyone who understands biological principles knows that if the plant roots are severely deprived of oxygen in water, the roots will soon undergo anaerobic respiration and thus ferment and rot. As a result, a large amount of fermentation matter accumulates in the bottle, mosquitoes and insects breed, the water becomes turbid and unclean, and the plant soon dies!
Only when the induction of plant water roots is truly achieved, forming aerenchyma and adapting well to the low-oxygen state in water, can a hydroponic plant truly deserve to be called a hydroponic flower. And the cultivation of water roots cannot be fully completed and achieved by nutrient solution alone; it requires a combination of biological, physical, computer and other methods and means, and after a relatively long period of cultivation and complete adaptation to the water environment, can it become a professional, truly hydroponic flower!

2) Whether it has a relatively strong level and ability in artistic combination?

Hydroponic flowers belong to mid-to-high-end consumption. Their ornamental value lies in: artistic combination and matching. Each product lies in its artistic glass bottle container, beautiful plant shape, white and elegant roots, and the perfect combination and matching of fish, water and grass and other decorations in the bottle! Whether it is a professional hydroponic flower work, apart from the natural sensory impression, a strong artistic combination is not something an ordinary beginner can put together! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether the producer has such an aesthetic level!

3) Whether it has the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers and fixed supply channels?

Whether it has the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers can also show whether a merchant has the ability to produce professional hydroponic flowers. If there is neither fixed production facilities nor a manufacturer with strength and brand as a supply source, then such a hydroponic flower provider is very likely selling "hydroponic flowers" made from soil-cultivated plants with washed roots!

Examining from the varieties:

The varieties of hydroponic flowers that a truly professional hydroponic flower producer can produce are not limited to plants such as those of the Araceae and Crassulaceae families, such as peace lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, lucky bamboo, Monstera deliciosa, Rohdea japonica and the like, which are themselves easy to keep in water. These plant varieties are themselves close to water and hydrophilic, and can generally be cultivated in water by ordinary methods. A professional producer should be able to achieve hydroponics for all kinds of woody plants and all kinds of water-fearing plants, such as sago palm, cactus, money tree, Polyscias fruticosa, and even plants such as Taxus chinensis, osmanthus and fruit trees! If the plant varieties a merchant can provide are single and limited, it certainly is not a professional hydroponic flower manufacturer!

Examining from time:

Time is the ultimate and only standard for testing hydroponic flowers. If they cannot adapt to long-term cultivation in water and are merely a fleeting show, dying within a few days, many of these are hydroponic flowers that speculators produce within a few hours by washing off the soil-cultivated roots, and within a few days the flowers bloom and then fall! Therefore, at present, those operators who cannot provide a shelf life for their goods are mostly speculators. If a merchant cannot provide a shelf life for the goods, it is recommended not to buy, so as to avoid being deceived!
Four, how to identify a truly professional hydroponic flower producer?

Driven by profit, many market speculators use various "formal" means in publicity and in information transmission channels to muddle through and fool the broad masses of consumers and investors. In order to make some so-called high-tech shell companies that have no real hydroponic flower technology, no base, no scale and no technical personnel, and that just rent a few offices in national universities (such as: Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, etc.), in research institutes (such as: Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Chinese Academy of Forestry, some research center, etc.), in institutions under the Ministry of Agriculture (such as: the Veteran Cadre Bureau of the Ministry of Agriculture, some technology center of the Ministry of Agriculture) or in office buildings, and then start advertising to rake in money, have no place to stand, and to make technology-transfer "guerrilla" companies that move from place to place after one shot lose their market for maliciously transferring some immature so-called "hydroponic flower technology" at low prices, and more importantly, so that you can learn these truly genuine technologies.

The author solemnly reminds you: no matter where in the country or in what media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must keep your eyes open and be extra vigilant, look at several more, and compare more; you must carefully compare the unit's scale, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality and after-sales service, {{remember: you must look at their flower shop products, and then ask for the phone numbers of their franchisees, and try as much as possible to go and see a franchisee to confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide this to you, then you must think thrice before acting; this is the most direct and ultimate way to judge. Of course, besides this, those "high-level" companies will also, like "medical shills", "school shills", "housing shills" and "drinking shills", use the skill of "Master Fobbing" Zhao Benshan to fool you, making it impossible to guard against!}}; you must carefully check the authenticity of the technology, training ability and relevant certificates; you must absolutely not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies, bringing unnecessary losses to your finances and spirit. Apart from distinguishing whether something is really a hydroponic flower through the product, in fact everyone only needs to be a bit more vigilant to see through the many speculators one by one. The following few points of experience, several types

How to fertilize hydroponic flowers by foliar application

Static hydroponic flowers are a cultivation method under the condition of root oxygen deficiency, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of the flowers. In order to improve the quality of the flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate diluted solution can be sprayed on the leaves.

A fine-holed sprayer should be used, and the fertilizer solution should be prevented as much as possible from running off. The undersides of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spraying once a week, or twice during the growth period, can make hydroponic flowers flourish with lush branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as calla lily, four-season begonia, begonia, and calla lily, etc., a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate diluted solution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week from the bud stage until the flowers open.

Pothos Epipremnum aureum (Scindapus aureus) Pothos illustrated guide: how to grow pothos / how to propagate pothos

Pothos profile
Pothos Epipremnum aureum (Scindapus aureus)
Aliases: devil's ivy, stone orange, bamboo-leaf grass, golden pothos, golden vine, stone orange
Classification: vine flowers
Family and genus: Plantae, Angiosperms, Monocots, Alismatales, Araceae, Epipremnum
Flowering period: does not flower
Pothos, also known as golden pothos, devil's ivy, golden vine, etc., is a plant of the genus Epipremnum in the Araceae family. It is native to tropical rainforest regions and is an evergreen vine of the Araceae family. Its green leaves have yellow patches. It has strong twining ability and aerial roots, and usually has hanging branches. The leaves are heart-shaped, emerald green and glossy, interspersed with yellow patches, pleasing to the eye. Pothos has high ornamental value, and people often make it into pothos columns, wall hangings, hanging baskets, water cuttings and decorative rockeries, etc. Its vine stems droop naturally, and it can both purify the air and make full use of space, adding lively lines and bright colors to dull cabinet surfaces. It is known as the "sea, land and air plant...

Pothos cultivation methods and precautions. Introduction to pothos

Pothos, also known as golden pothos, devil's ivy, golden vine, etc., is a plant of the genus Epipremnum in the Araceae family. It is native to tropical rainforest regions and is an evergreen vine of the Araceae family. Its green leaves have yellow patches. It has strong twining ability and aerial roots, and usually has hanging branches. The leaves are heart-shaped, emerald green and glossy, interspersed with yellow patches, pleasing to the eye.
Pothos has high ornamental value, and people often make it into pothos columns, wall hangings, hanging baskets, water cuttings and decorative rockeries, etc. Its vine stems droop naturally, and it can both purify the air and make full use of space, adding lively lines and bright colors to dull cabinet surfaces. It is known as the "sea, land and air plant".
Pothos grows in tropical regions, often climbing on rocks and tree trunks in rainforests, and can grow into a huge vine. It has strong twining ability and well-developed aerial roots. Pothos belongs to the Araceae family and can be grown hydroponically.
Pothos is native to the tropical rainforest regions of Central and South America. It is an evergreen vine of the Araceae family. Pothos is a plant of the genus Philodendron in the Araceae family, belonging to climbing vine foliage flowers. It likes warm, humid environments. Its vines can reach several meters long, with aerial roots at the nodes, and the leaves grow larger and larger. The leaves are alternate and evergreen. Pothos has high ornamental value; it can both purify the air and make full use of space. At present, it is cultivated artificially in gardens and homes in various parts of the country, including Shanghai, Jiangsu, Fujian, Taiwan, China, Guangdong and Guangxi.
Pothos is usually grown in pots indoors, placed in studies, living rooms, offices and other places. It can bring a beautiful visual impression and purify the environment. Among large vines, pothos, like spider plants and ivy, has a powerful air-purifying effect. Because pothos can absorb benzene, formaldehyde and the like from the air, it is widely grown indoors. It is difficult for plants to move from outdoors to indoor cultivation. Next, let us understand the cultivation methods and precautions for pothos.
Pothos is one of the very excellent indoor decorative plants. Its vines are slender and soft, and its leaves are delicate and elegant. Pothos has strong twining ability and well-developed aerial roots. It can be allowed to climb on a column wrapped with palm fiber, placed in an entrance hall or hotel, or it can be cultivated into a hanging form and placed in a study or on a windowsill, or placed on top of a furniture cabinet, letting its vine stems droop gracefully, or after the hanging vines grow too long, looped and hung into a ring, just like an emerald relief. Pothos is a flower relatively suitable for indoor placement.

Morphological characteristics of pothos
Pothos is a perennial evergreen vine. Both stems and leaves are succulent, and the stem nodes bear aerial roots. The leaves are alternate, ovate-oblong, heart-shaped, waxy, 10-15 cm long, dark green and glossy. There are also variegated varieties inlaid with irregular golden stripes or spots.
Pothos is a large evergreen herbaceous vine, often climbing and growing on rocks and tree trunks. It can grow up to 20 m tall at most, with a vine diameter of 4 cm, and indoor cultivation height can reach about 2 m. The stems and vines of pothos are stout, and the vines can reach several meters long, with vine length reaching more than ten meters, and aerial roots at the stem nodes.
As pothos ages and grows, its stems thicken and its leaves also grow larger and larger. Young branches are whip-like, slender, with larger leaves on the lower side, papery, broadly ovate, shortly acuminate, with a heart-shaped base. On mature branches, the petioles are stout, and the leaves are thinly leathery, emerald green, with irregular pure yellow patches, entire, unequal-sided ovate or ovate-oblong, with an acuminate apex and a deeply heart-shaped base.
The largest leaves can reach 100 cm long and 45 cm wide (young plants are generally below 20 cm). Young leaves are ovate-heart-shaped. Newly propagated seedlings have smaller and paler leaves, while mature leaves are long ovate, about 30 cm long and about 10 cm wide. The deep green leaf surface is inlaid with irregular yellow-white spots or stripes.
Due to differences in fertilizer and water conditions, the leaf size of pothos varies. Pothos has luxuriant branches and leaves, good shade tolerance, and is evergreen all year round with a glossy sheen. In winter, when outdoor vegetation withers and fades, indoor pothos remains lush and green, so it is an excellent indoor foliage plant.
Because the stems and vines of pothos grow relatively fast, people often cultivate it in a column-vine style. That is, erect a support in the center of the flower pot, wrap some palm fiber around the support, with the support diameter reaching 22-12 cm, then plant 3-4 seedlings in the pot, letting their stems and vines climb and grow around the column. Some also plant pothos in a flower pot and place it on a flower stand, letting its stems and vines hang down like a green curtain, which is uniquely charming. It also has a certain effect of absorbing formaldehyde and benzene, and when used together with Maya Blue it will achieve a long-lasting protective effect. It is suitable for planting in places such as homes and offices.

Ecological habits of pothos
Pothos likes warm, humid and semi-shady environments, is sensitive to light, and fears direct strong light. Fertile leaf mold or peat soil is best for the soil, and the winter temperature should not be lower than 15°C.
Pothos is a shade-loving plant, avoiding direct sunlight, and likes shade. For indoor cultivation, it can be placed beside a window, but direct sunlight must be avoided. Too strong sunlight will scorch pothos leaves, and too much shade will make the beautiful markings on the leaf surface disappear. Usually, receiving four hours of scattered light makes pothos grow and develop best.
Pothos likes warm, humid environments, and requires loose, fertile soil with good drainage. For potted pothos, fertile, loose, well-drained leaf mold should be chosen, preferably slightly acidic. Pothos is extremely shade-tolerant and can be placed in a sunny spot indoors all year round. In darker indoor areas, it should be moved every half month to a brighter environment for a period of recovery, otherwise the internodes tend to elongate and the leaves become smaller. Pothos likes hot and humid environments, and the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C. The pot soil should be kept moist, and water should often be sprayed on the leaves to increase air humidity, so as to favor the growth of aerial roots. During the vigorous growth period, a liquid fertilizer can be applied once a month. For plants kept indoors for viewing over a long period, the leaves at the base of the stems tend to fall off, reducing ornamental value. In May and June, when the temperature turns warmer, pruning and renewal can be carried out together with cuttings, to prompt the basal stems to sprout new shoots.
It likes warm, humid environmental conditions, likes shade, and avoids strong light. It is heat-tolerant, moisture-tolerant, and not cold-tolerant. It likes soil rich in humus, loose and fertile, and slightly acidic.
Pothos is sensitive to temperature. In summer, avoid direct sunlight; under strong light the leaves easily turn yellow and fall off, so shade should be provided when outdoors in summer. In winter, it can grow well under bright scattered light indoors, with sturdy stem nodes and brilliant leaf color. During the growth period, it has relatively high water requirements. Besides normally replenishing water to the pot soil, water should also be sprayed frequently on the leaves. For column-vine cultivation, more water should also be sprayed on the palm fiber column so that the palm fiber fully absorbs water for the aerial roots winding around the stem to absorb. A nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer can be applied once every 2 weeks, or a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed weekly, making the leaves emerald green and the markings more vivid.

Cultivation techniques for pothos
Pothos is very robust and can be potted indoors in all four seasons. It can be placed for a long time in a sunny spot in the pot. If kept in a dark place for a long time, the leaves will become smaller and the internodes will lengthen; for colored-leaf varieties, the leaf color will fade, affecting ornamental value. In summer, it needs to spend time in a semi-shady environment, avoiding direct sunlight.
The suitable growth temperature is around 25°C during the day, and the suitable winter temperature should be kept at 10-13°C, generally not lower than 7°C. In the warm winter areas of South China and Southwest China, it can be cultivated in the open ground.
Pothos likes hot and humid environments, and water should often be sprayed on the leaves and the ground while keeping the pot soil moist. During the growing season, apply a compound fertilizer about once every 2 weeks.
It is often potted, and can also be used as a hanging basket, or planted in indoor planting troughs. Generally, a support is erected in the pot for its vines to climb on. It is best to use dead wood with moss or snake wood (the trunk of tree ferns), or a wire mesh can be made into a cylinder for planting. If planted in a hanging basket or planting trough, the stems and vines are generally allowed to hang freely without erecting a support. Usually repot once every 2-3 years. In May and June each year, carry out appropriate pruning and renewal to promote the basal stems to sprout new branches, making the clump more luxuriant. The culture soil is best as a mixture of leaf mold and garden soil, and it can also grow when grown in water.
Features
(1) Pothos is all shipped from Guangzhou to all parts of the country and bought back in winter. Pothos has generally been frozen, so when placed indoors it will
quickly show yellow leaves, etc. These frozen leaves will all turn yellow and fall off, and new ones will still grow again after the Spring Festival.
(2) Generally, newly bought pothos has an adaptation period of about 1 month in a new environment. Yellow leaves at the bottom are normal, but remember: do not directly peel off yellow or dead leaves; cut them off from the middle of the petiole. This avoids excessive water loss and additional wounds caused by direct peeling, which would cause the upper leaves to turn yellow too.
(3) Pothos is not afraid of shade, but a very dark environment also cannot keep it well! You can regularly move its position to a place with good light (but it cannot be exposed to the sun).
(4) To grow pothos well, appropriate ventilation is also needed.
(5) When watering, you can moisten the column; the upper part is all aerial roots. From time to time, spray a little nitrogen fertilizer on the leaves, and water the soil with a little diluted ferrous sulfate solution.
(6) If the leaves have already turned very yellow, be sure to control watering. Too much or too little watering is not good. At this time, place the pothos in a well-ventilated place with light.
(7) Pothos is afraid of freezing; after freezing it will turn black until it dies.
(8) When pothos grows very long, it climbs over
Precautions
For planting pothos, the soil requirements are already a commonplace topic. The soil should be mainly fertile, loose, well-drained leaf mold, and slightly acidic soil works best. In a darker room, some lights should be turned on, which helps the plant grow.
1. Water more. Pothos likes to live in a humid environment, so watering more is best. In summer, the weather is hot and water dissipates quickly. Besides watering more, you should also spray water on the leaves. The amount of watering depends on the pot soil; larger pothos plants should be watered more.
2. Avoid exposure to the sun. Pothos grows in shaded places under large trees, so it is a shade-loving plant and cannot be exposed to the sun, otherwise newly sprouted leaves will lose water and become smaller, with dull color, and the leaf edges are easily scorched. It is enough to provide sunlight for photosynthesis.
3. Appropriate temperature. Although pothos does not like the scorching sun, it is still very sensitive to temperature. If the temperature is too low, it is easily frostbitten. A room temperature of about 20°C is fine. If heating equipment is installed, pothos leaves should not be too close to it. Keeping the indoor temperature above 10°C allows pothos to pass the winter safely.
4. Fertilizing. Because it is grown indoors, pothos absorbs nutrients less fully than outdoors. It is recommended to apply fertilizer once every half month. You can buy fertilizer specially for pothos on the market. Or ask the flower shop owner to help choose fertilizer.
5. Maintain air humidity. Pothos grows faster in environments with higher air humidity. It is recommended to maintain indoor humidity; a humidifier can be used to increase air humidity. Specifically, you can spray water around the pothos.
Daily management
Hydroponic pothos is generally placed in a sunny spot indoors, where it can maintain a warm temperature and relatively good light to promote plant growth. In addition, it cannot directly receive sunlight. In winter, especially in northern China where winter is very cold, insulation measures should be taken appropriately at this time. At different growth stages of hydroponic pothos, additional fertilization should be carried out according to growth needs to ensure nutrient supply. Hydroponic pothos has relatively high water requirements, so the soil should be kept moist. Water generously once a month, and then the leaves can be wiped every day to keep them fresh. Regularly prune hydroponic pothos to keep the branches and leaves shapely and emerald green, and prevent and treat pests and diseases.

What you need to know about pothos cultivation methods
In principle, pothos likes moisture, and during the growing season it is best to water so as to keep the pot soil moist regularly. In summer, while watering sufficiently, attention should also be paid to frequently spraying water on the leaves. Whether to water every day is affected by many conditions, such as the amount of pot soil, plant size, pot material, maintenance environment and so on; water consumption varies greatly, and it needs to be grasped concretely according to the above principles.
Pothos cannot be watered with rice-washing water. Although rice-washing water contains many nutrients that can be used, it must be composted and fermented and decomposed before use, otherwise it will not only easily breed insects, but in serious cases also cause root rot.
Pothos has relatively strong shade tolerance, and can be kept indoors all year round for home cultivation. If placed outdoors for cultivation, attention should be paid to shading, especially in summer, and even more attention should be paid to preventing direct strong light, otherwise new leaves will become smaller, the leaf color will be dull, and the leaf edges will easily be scorched.
Tips
1. Pothos develops best when cultivated in loose, organic-rich, slightly acidic and neutral sandy loam. Repot once every three years. Pothos is a shade-loving plant, avoiding direct sunlight, liking scattered light, and relatively shade-tolerant. Usually, receiving four hours of scattered light is best.
2. Propagation uses cuttings and stem burial. Select robust pothos vines, cut them into sections of two nodes, being careful not to damage the aerial roots, and spray with Xinguo lipid film to retain moisture, raising the survival rate to above 90%.
3. Pothos likes relatively high air humidity and a humid environment. Midsummer is the peak growth period for pothos. Several times a day, spray water on the aerial roots and leaves of pothos. This can both wash off dust on the leaves, helping pothos breathe, and make the leaf color emerald green and verdant. It can also lower the leaf surface temperature, increase the air humidity of the micro-environment, and make the leaves grow better. For fertilizing pothos, nitrogen fertilizer is the main component and potassium fertilizer is supplementary. Spray Xinguo lipid film to retain fertilizer and moisture. In winter, when room temperature is relatively low, pothos is in a dormant state, so water less, and just keep the pot soil from drying out.
4. The most suitable growth temperature for pothos is 18°C-21°C during the day and 20°C-23°C at night. In winter, as long as the indoor temperature is not lower than 15°C, pothos can safely overwinter. If the temperature is lower than 10°C, it easily causes leaf drop and affects growth. During the growth period, spraying Zhuangjingling at the right time can make the plant stems stout, the leaves thick, the leaf color fresh and tender, and the plant luxuriant.
Characteristics
(1) Pothos is typically shipped from Guangzhou to all parts of the country and bought back in winter. The pothos has generally been exposed to cold, so placing it indoors will soon result in yellowing leaves. Once these cold-damaged leaves have turned yellow and dropped off, new leaves will sprout again around the Spring Festival.
(2) Newly purchased pothos generally takes about 1 month to adapt to a new environment, and yellowing at the bottom leaves is normal. However, remember: do not pull off yellow or dead leaves directly; cut them off from the middle of the petiole. This avoids excessive water loss and added wounds from direct tearing, which would cause the upper leaves to yellow as well.
(3) Pothos is not afraid of shade, but a very dark environment will also prevent it from thriving! You can periodically move it to a location with good light (but it must not be exposed to direct sun).
(4) Proper ventilation is also needed to grow pothos well.
(5) When watering, you can wet the pole, as its surface is covered with aerial roots. From time to time, spray the leaves with a nitrogen fertilizer and water the soil with diluted ferrous sulfate solution.
(6) If the leaves have already turned very yellow, be sure to control watering. Both overwatering and underwatering are bad. At this point, place the pothos in a well-ventilated spot with light.
(7) Pothos is afraid of freezing; after freezing, it will turn black until it dies.
(8) When the pothos has grown very long and climbs over the top of the pole, cut it off or turn the head around and let it climb downward, rather than letting it grow wildly.
(9) It can grow as a climber and is suitable for beautifying indoor and outdoor walls, staircases, and more.
Cultivation
Pothos has vigorous vitality. From a lush pot of pothos, you can break off 3~5 stem sections and place them in a bottle filled with 500ml of clean water, add 2-3 drops of "aquatic-fish co-cultivation" nutrient solution, and new roots will grow in a week. Change the water once every 10 days, and gently wash the roots by hand to prevent root rot; if the water evaporates or becomes insufficient within the 10 days, you can add fresh clean water without washing.
Pothos grows relatively quickly and is extensively managed in cultivation. During cultivation and management, in summer, spray the plant with water more often, apply a foliar fertilizer once every 10 days, and keep the leaves green. For potted seedlings, when the seedlings grow 30cm above the cultivation pole, they should be cut off; when the lower leaves have dropped by 30%~50%, they should be discarded and replanted. The green-pole potted form is an ideal plant for courtyard gateposts and wall greening, and its leaves are also excellent foliage material for flower arrangements.
Key Cultivation Points
Extensive management. For cultivation, choose a plot with fertile soil. After planting, water thoroughly and spray to maintain moisture. In the dry autumn weather, spray 2~3 times a day. If the air is too dry, the leaves will be dull and lack luster. It prefers ample diffused light; if too dark, the stripes will darken and its ornamental value will decrease. It does not have high fertilizer requirements; fertilize 2~3 times during the growing season, mainly with nitrogen fertilizer.
Protection
Pothos likes heat and humidity, and its optimal growing temperature is 20°C to 30°C. Creating a suitable growing environment for it in winter is the key to successful care. In terms of care, attention should be paid to the following aspects:
Light: Pothos does not have a strong heliotropic tendency, but in winter, to compensate for the lack of temperature and photosynthesis, its light exposure should be increased. The method is to place the pothos in the brightest spot indoors, or move it to a sealed balcony at noon to sunbathe. At the same time, when the temperature is low, open windows as little as possible, because in a very short time the leaves may be frostbitten.
Temperature: In the north, with an indoor temperature above 10°C, pothos can safely overwinter; with an indoor temperature above 20°C, pothos can grow normally. Generally, households can reach this temperature without much problem. What needs attention is avoiding excessive temperature differences, and also making sure the leaves do not get close to heating equipment.
Humidity: Under the condition of maintaining normal temperature, increasing humidity is extremely beneficial to plant growth. Humidity can be increased by the following methods: place the plant near a humidifier, with the humidifier running for more than 5 hours each day; use a sprayer adjusted to the mist setting to spray the plant's leaves, stems, and aerial roots several times a day; keep an appropriate amount of water in the saucer under the flowerpot, using its evaporation to increase the local humidity around the plant; gently wipe the leaf surface with a cold wet towel or toilet paper, or apply it lightly to the leaf surface for a short time (1-2 hours per day); cover the plant with transparent plastic film to create a mini-greenhouse effect, supplementing the plant's moisture through evaporation of water vapor from the soil, for no more than 2 hours per day, as too long will affect the plant's ventilation and photosynthesis.
Water: In winter, the amount of watering should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. After heating begins, watering should not be too frequent, and less water should be poured into the pot; water should seep through the coir. In addition, water should also be sprayed on the aerial roots on the coir pole to reduce insufficient root water uptake caused by overly rapid evaporation. For winter watering, water that has been left to stand for a day is better; water that is too cold easily damages the roots.
Fertilizer: In winter, plant growth is slow, so less fertilizer should be applied. After the beginning of winter, fertilization should mainly be foliar spraying. Special-purpose fertilizer should be used for foliar fertilizer; ordinary inorganic fertilizers are not easily absorbed. Foliar fertilizers such as the Beida Huahushen series and Japan-produced Hana Ichiban can be used.
Caution
Pothos, like Alocasia macrorrhizos, belongs to the Araceae family, and its toxic part is mainly in its sap.
It is a fact that pothos is toxic, and keeping pothos at home is still fine, because as long as you do not consume the sap of pothos, it will not cause poisoning. Although the sap of pothos is toxic, it is only mildly toxic. During cultivation, even if you touch the leaves of pothos, as long as you do not directly consume them, it will not affect your body. In addition, many people today grow pothos hydroponically. If you touch the water used for cultivation, as long as you do not drink it, there is generally no harm.
Of course, accidental ingestion is one aspect, and contact is also an issue that requires attention in cultivation. As a plant whose sap is mildly toxic, accidental ingestion may cause allergic reactions. Therefore, during ordinary cultivation, everyone should especially be careful not to put it in the mouth, and it is best not to let food come into contact with pothos. Regarding the effect of pothos sap on the body, experts say that the sap of pothos is toxic. Whether adult or child, skin contact may cause redness, swelling, and itching, and accidental ingestion may also cause throat pain. For toxic plants such as pothos, the toxin mainly comes from the sap in the plant stems. Even if they are planted at home or in the office, as long as you do not directly touch the sap with your hands, it will not cause poisoning.
It can thus be seen that pothos can be grown, and according to horticultural experts, plants such as pothos and Alocasia macrorrhizos actually do more good than harm for the public. Although their sap is toxic, they can absorb formaldehyde and also have a very good air-cleaning effect, so everyone need not "turn pale at the mention of poison," nor think that because it is toxic it should not be grown. Moreover, keeping pothos at home is very useful for purifying the home environment, so everyone can still choose to grow pothos at home.
Specifics
(1) Light: The original growing conditions of pothos are in forests shaded by towering trees, so it does not have a strong heliotropic tendency. But in the north in autumn and winter, to supplement the lack of temperature and photosynthesis, its light exposure should be increased. At the same time, when the temperature is low, open windows as little as possible, because in a very short time the leaves may be frostbitten.
(2) Temperature: In the north, with an indoor temperature above 10°C, pothos can safely overwinter.
(3) Humidity: This refers to the water content in the air of the plant's growing environment. Under the condition of maintaining normal temperature, increasing humidity is extremely beneficial to plant growth. Humidity can be increased by the following methods. Place the plant near a humidifier, with the humidifier running for more than 5 hours each day, so the plant can enjoy the mist sprayed out by the humidifier; use a sprayer adjusted to the mist setting to spray the plant's leaves, stems, and aerial roots, increasing the local temperature around the plant through evaporation; use a cold
wet towel or toilet paper to gently wipe the leaf surface or lightly apply it to the leaf surface for a short time (1~2 hours per day); cover the plant with transparent plastic film to create a mini-greenhouse effect, supplementing the plant's moisture through evaporation of water vapor from the soil, for no more than 2 hours per day, as too long will affect the plant's ventilation and photosynthesis.
(4) Water: In autumn and winter, the amount of watering should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. Before heating begins, the temperature is lower and the soil of the plant evaporates more slowly, so watering should be reduced, with the amount controlled at 1/4~1/2 of the original. Even after heating begins, watering should not be too frequent, and less water should be poured into the pot; water should seep through the coir. In addition, water should also be sprayed at the places where aerial roots grow on the coir pole, to reduce insufficient root water uptake caused by overly rapid evaporation. For winter watering, water that has been left to stand for a day is better; water that is too cold easily damages the roots.
(5) Fertilizer: In the autumn and winter seasons in the north, plants mostly grow slowly or even stop growing, so fertilization should be reduced. Before the beginning of winter, mainly water and spray liquid inorganic fertilizer, about once every 15 days. After the beginning of winter, fertilization should mainly be foliar spraying, mainly through the stomata on the leaf surface, so that the fertilizer effect can act directly on the leaf surface. Special-purpose fertilizer should be used for foliar fertilizer; ordinary inorganic fertilizers are not easily absorbed by the leaf surface. The Beida Huahushen series and Japan-produced Hana Ichiban can all be used as foliar fertilizers.
(6) Pests and diseases: Pothos plants are very susceptible to problems with pests and pathogens. Typical pests affecting pothos include mealybugs, red spider mites, and scale insects. Mealybugs are usually the most common, and can be removed using alcohol to kill the insects, with cotton swabs, or by hand.
Typical pathogens (fungi and bacteria) affect a range of pothos varieties and usually cause root rot, leaf spot, and wilt. Be careful not to overwater, to prevent the occurrence of root rot. When choosing to buy a pothos plant, take the plant out of the pot and check its roots. See whether it has complete and healthy roots. Pothos is also known as golden pothos. It originated in tropical rainforest areas and is an evergreen vine of the Araceae family. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C, the potting soil should be kept moist, and water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface to increase air humidity, so as to favor the growth of aerial roots. Vigorous growth method.
Shaping
Plant or directly insert 4~5 plants per pot, and set up a coir pole in the middle of the pot to make it easier for pothos to wind upward as it grows. Shaping and pruning are carried out in spring. When the stems and vines have covered the coir pole and the tips extend about 20cm beyond the coir pole, cut off 40cm of the stem tips of 2~3 of the plants. After the cut back sprouts new buds and new leaves, cut off the stem tips of the remaining plants. For potted plants that have lost leaves on the whole plant or the lower half due to winter freezing or other reasons, half of the plant's stems and vines can be cut back by 1/2, and the other half cut back by 2/3 or 3/4, so that the cut points are staggered at different heights; in this way, the new leaves growing below the cut points can quickly cover the coir pole.
When growing in water, the water amount must not be too much; just submerging the roots is enough. When there is too much water, the stems and leaves are prone to rot.
Yellow Leaves
(1) Pothos bought back in winter has generally been exposed to cold, so placing it indoors will soon result in yellowing leaves. After these cold-damaged yellow leaves have dropped, new leaves will sprout again around the Spring Festival.
(2) Newly purchased pothos generally takes about 1 month to adapt to a new environment, and yellowing at the bottom leaves is normal. However, remember: do not pull off yellow or dead leaves directly; cut them off from the middle of the petiole. This avoids excessive water loss and added wounds from direct tearing, which would cause the upper leaves to yellow as well.
(3) Although pothos is not afraid of shade, a very dark environment can also cause yellow leaves. You can periodically move it to a location with good light; at the same time, it must not be exposed to direct sun. Excessive exposure under strong light will not only cause yellow leaves and leaf drop, but can also cause the entire plant to die.
(4) Potting soil that is too dry or too wet: both conditions will cause metabolic disorders, damage the root system, and lead to yellow leaves and leaf drop.
(5) Lack of fertilizer and malnutrition can also cause yellow leaves; at this time, fertilizer should be supplemented promptly.
(6) Beer can be appropriately used as fertilizer. Method: mix beer with water at a 1:1 ratio and spray the stems and leaves.
(7) Excessive topdressing can also easily cause root burn, leading to yellowing and withering leaves. You can dilute the fertilizer with water so that the nutrients flow away with the water.
Evergreen Techniques
In spring, summer, and autumn, it can be placed near an east- or north-facing windowsill, and in winter it can be placed at a south-facing window. If it is placed in an overly dark environment for a long time, it will not only cause the trailing stems to become leggy, the internodes to lengthen, and the plant shape to become sparse, but the yellow-white stripes on the leaf surface will also become smaller and lighter in color, or even disappear completely and fade to green. If placed outdoors for cultivation, attention should be paid to shading, especially in summer, and even more attention should be paid to preventing direct strong light; otherwise, new leaves will become smaller and the leaf color dull, and the leaf margins will easily be scorched. The suitable temperature for pothos growth is 20°C~30°C, and the winter room temperature should not be lower than 15°C.
Pothos likes moisture. During the growing season, watering should keep the potting soil often moist; never let the potting soil dry out, otherwise it easily causes yellow leaves and a poor plant shape. If too much watering causes water accumulation in the potting soil, it easily causes root rot and withered leaves, especially when the winter room temperature is low, when even more attention should be paid to controlling watering. In summer, while watering sufficiently, also pay attention to frequently spraying water on the leaf surface. In winter, when the climate is dry, the leaves also need to be sprayed and washed once every 4~5 days with warm water to wash away dust on the leaf surface, so as to help keep the leaves bright and green.

Pothos Propagation Methods
It does not easily bloom, and is commonly propagated by cuttings. From May to July, take shoots from the stem tips or base, cut them into sections about 10 cm long, insert them into a propagation bed mixed with equal amounts of fine sand and peat, maintain appropriate humidity and a temperature of 21~25°C, and in a semi-shaded environment new roots can form in about 3 weeks. After rooting, they can be potted, with 3~4 plants per pot. Older branches can also be used for cuttings. Cut branches with buds into sections of 4~5 nodes, insert them in the same way, and they can also grow into new plants. Layering propagation can also be used, and can be carried out throughout the growing season.
The propagation method for hydroponic pothos is asexual propagation by cuttings.
Propagation can be carried out each year in spring and summer when the climate and environment are suitable. Generally, choose a relatively long and healthily growing branch from the hydroponic pothos as the new plant, separate it from the mother plant, and slightly prepare its lower stem, then let it be cultivated in water or nutrient solution, and after some time, when new roots and buds have grown, it can be transplanted into a flowerpot for cultivation.
Cutting propagation is generally used: cut 3~5 branches 20cm long, remove the leaves from the basal 2 nodes, then pot them directly, or transplant them into pots, water thoroughly, place them in a cool, ventilated place, and keep the potting soil moist. Pothos can also be grown hydroponically, but because the plant is relatively small, its ornamental value will be more or less affected.
Cuttings
Propagation uses the cutting and stem-burying methods. Select healthy pothos vines, cut them into sections of two nodes each, being careful not to damage the aerial roots, then insert them into plain sand or coal cinders to a depth of 1/3 of the cutting. Water thoroughly and place in a shaded place, spray water on the leaf surface every day or cover with plastic film to maintain moisture, and with an ambient temperature not lower than 20°C, the survival rate is all above 90%.
Home potted pothos is relatively simple. First, there should be at least 4 or more established seedlings in one pot. The potting soil should be loose, fertile, and rich in organic matter, which is favorable for forming a good shape. Second, pothos requires growth in an environment with a relatively high temperature (the winter room temperature must not be lower than 10°C, otherwise yellow leaves and leaf drop easily occur) and relatively strong diffused light. If it is too dark for a long time, the internodes will become slender and weak, and the leaves will also become thinner, lighter, and lose luster. In late spring and early summer (from April to August), cut branches 15~30cm long, remove the leaves from the basal 1~2 nodes, pot them directly with culture soil, 3~5 per pot, water thoroughly, plant in a cool, ventilated place, keep the potting soil moist, and in about one month they will take root and sprout, and in the same year they can grow into plants with ornamental value.
Water Insertion
Pothos can also be propagated by water insertion of terminal buds. The method is: cut a tender, strong stem and vine section 20~30cm long, insert it directly into a bottle filled with clean water, change the water once every 8~9 days, and in more than 10 days it can take root and survive. Because potted pothos is limited by the potting soil, after too long a cultivation time the plant is prone to aging, with leaves becoming smaller and dropping. Therefore, after 2 to 3 years of cultivation, repotting or pruning and renewal must be carried out.
Hydroponic pothos grows relatively quickly and is extensively managed in cultivation. During cultivation and management, in summer, spray the plant with water more often, add nutrient solution once every 10 days, and keep the leaves green. For potted seedlings, when the seedlings grow 30cm above the cultivation pole, they should be cut off; plant or directly insert 4~5 plants per pot, and set up a coir pole in the middle of the pot to make it easier for hydroponic pothos to wind upward as it grows. After the cut back sprouts new buds and new leaves, cut off the stem tips of the remaining plants.

Pothos Disease Control: Pothos Anthracnose
This pathogen mostly harms the middle section of leaves, and can also harm flowers. Initially, wet reddish-brown or dark brown small pustule-like spots appear on the diseased part, with a faded green halo around the spots. After enlargement, they form long oval or long strip-shaped patches, with dark brown edges and a yellow-brown interior, and with ring-like patterns formed by the convergence of dark spots. Because its spots are dark brown, it is also called black spot disease or dark brown disease. It can repeatedly infect the plant during the growing period.
Control Methods
1. There are many pesticides that can control anthracnose, such as mancozeb, carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, and tanterling, all of which have certain control effects.
2. Germany-produced "Sporgon" at 1,500 times dilution is a specific remedy for treating anthracnose.
Yellow Leaves
(1) Pothos bought back in winter has generally been exposed to cold, so placing it indoors will soon result in yellowing leaves. After these cold-damaged yellow leaves have dropped, new leaves will sprout again around the Spring Festival.
(4) Newly purchased pothos generally takes about 1 month to adapt to a new environment, and yellowing at the bottom leaves is normal. However, remember: do not pull off yellow or dead leaves directly; cut them off from the middle of the petiole. This avoids excessive water loss and added wounds from direct tearing, which would cause the upper leaves to yellow as well.
(3) Although pothos is not afraid of shade, a very dark environment can also cause yellow leaves. You can periodically move it to a location with good light; at the same time, it must not be exposed to direct sun. Excessive exposure under strong light will not only cause yellow leaves and leaf drop, but can also cause the entire plant to die.
(4) Potting soil that is too dry or too wet: both conditions will cause metabolic disorders, damage the root system, and lead to yellow leaves and leaf drop.
(5) Lack of fertilizer and malnutrition can also cause yellow leaves; at this time, fertilizer should be supplemented promptly.
(6) Beer can be appropriately used as fertilizer. Method: mix beer with water at a 1:1 ratio and spray the stems and leaves.
(7) Excessive topdressing can also easily cause root burn, leading to yellowing and withering leaves. You can dilute the fertilizer with water so that the nutrients flow away with the water.
Pests and Diseases
Pothos plants are very susceptible to problems with pests and pathogens. Typical pests affecting pothos include mealybugs, red spider mites, and scale insects. Mealybugs are usually the most common, and can be removed using alcohol to kill the insects, with cotton swabs, or by hand.
Typical pathogens (fungi and bacteria) affect a range of pothos varieties and usually cause root rot, leaf spot, and wilt. Be careful not to overwater, to prevent the occurrence of root rot. When choosing to buy a pothos plant, take the plant out of the pot and check its roots. See whether it has complete and healthy roots. Pothos is also known as golden pothos. It originated in tropical rainforest areas and is an evergreen vine of the Araceae family. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C, the potting soil should be kept moist, and water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface to increase air humidity, so as to favor the growth of aerial roots. Vigorous growth method.
Pothos Potting Methods
Because potted pothos is limited by the potting soil, after too long a cultivation time the plant is prone to aging, with leaves becoming smaller and dropping. Therefore, after 2 to 3 years of cultivation, repotting or pruning and renewal must be carried out.
Pothos likes warm, humid environments and requires loose, fertile soil with good drainage. For potted pothos, choose fertile, loose, well-drained leaf mold soil, preferably slightly acidic. Pothos is extremely shade-tolerant and can be placed in a sunny spot indoors in all four seasons. In indoor areas with dim light, it should be moved every half month to a brighter environment for a period of recovery. Pothos likes hot and humid environments, and the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C. The potting soil should be kept moist, and water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface to increase air humidity, so as to favor the growth of aerial roots. During the vigorous growth period, liquid fertilizer can be applied once a month. In May and June, when the temperature warms up, pruning and renewal can be carried out together with cuttings to encourage new buds to sprout from the basal stems.
Pothos develops best when cultivated in loose, organic-rich, slightly acidic to neutral sandy loam. It can be made by mixing and composting 70% leaf mold, 20% red soil, and 10% rapeseed cake and bone meal. Repot once every three years. Pothos is a shade-loving plant, avoiding direct sunlight, preferring diffused light, and is relatively shade-tolerant. Indoor cultivation can place it beside a window, but direct sunlight should be avoided. Too strong sunlight will scorch pothos leaves, and too much shade will cause the beautiful markings on the leaf surface to disappear. Generally, receiving four hours of diffused light gives the best growth and development for pothos.
Pothos likes relatively high air humidity and a moist environment. In midsummer, during pothos's peak growth period, spray water on the aerial roots and leaf surface several times a day. This can wash dust from the leaves, help pothos breathe, keep the leaf color emerald green, and also lower the leaf surface temperature, increase the air humidity of the micro-environment, and allow the leaves to grow better. Keep the potting soil at a moist level; when the potting soil is found to have turned white, water thoroughly. In winter, when the room temperature is relatively low, pothos is in a dormant state, so water less and just keep the potting soil from drying out.
The most suitable growth temperature for pothos is 20°C-28°C during the day and 15°C-18°C at night. In winter, as long as the indoor temperature is not lower than 10°C, pothos can safely overwinter. If the temperature is lower than 5, it easily causes leaf drop and affects growth. For pothos fertilization, mainly use nitrogen fertilizer, with potassium fertilizer as a supplement. Before the arrival of the spring growing season for pothos, apply a 0.3% solution of ammonium sulfate or urea once every 10 days or so, and use a 0.5‰-1‰ urea solution for one foliar fertilization, so as to both meet pothos's growth needs and keep the leaves green and shiny. Fertilization should be stopped in winter.
Usually, potted pothos propagation uses the cutting and stem-burying methods. Select healthy pothos vines, cut them into sections of two nodes each, being careful not to damage the aerial roots, then insert them into plain sand or coal cinders to a depth of 1/3 of the cutting. Water thoroughly and place in a shaded place, spray water on the leaf surface every day or cover with plastic film to maintain moisture; as long as the environment is kept not lower than 20, the survival rate is all above 90%. In late spring and early summer, cut branches 15cm to 30cm long, remove the leaves from the basal 1 to 2 nodes, pot them directly with culture soil, 3 to 5 per pot, water thoroughly, plant in a cool, ventilated place, keep the potting soil moist, and in about one month they will take root and sprout, and in the same year they can grow into plants with ornamental value. In spring and summer, cuttings from branches take root easily; for making totem poles, terminal cuttings with large leaves must be used, so that the form is completed relatively quickly. Pothos can also be grown in water, but compared with soil cultivation the plant is smaller.
Plant or directly insert 4~5 plants per pot, and set up a coir pole in the middle of the pot to make it easier for pothos to wind upward as it grows. Shaping and pruning are carried out in spring. When the stems and vines have covered the coir pole and the tips extend about 20cm beyond the coir pole, cut off 40cm of the stem tips of 2~3 of the plants. After the cut back sprouts new buds and new leaves, cut off the stem tips of the remaining plants. For potted plants that have lost leaves on the whole plant or the lower half due to winter freezing or other reasons, half of the plant's stems and vines can be cut back by 1/2, and the other half cut back by 2/3 or 3/4, so that the cut points are staggered at different heights; in this way, the new leaves growing below the cut points can quickly cover the coir pole.
When growing in water, the water amount must not be too much; just submerging the roots is enough. When there is too much water, the stems and leaves are prone to rot.

Hydroponic Methods for Pothos
One.Propagation Method for Hydroponic Pothos
The propagation method for hydroponic pothos is asexual propagation by cuttings. Propagation can be carried out each year in spring and summer when the climate and environment are suitable. Generally, choose a relatively long and healthily growing branch from the hydroponic pothos as the new plant, separate it from the mother plant, and slightly prepare its lower stem, then let it be cultivated in water or nutrient solution, and after some time, when new roots and buds have grown, it can be transplanted into a flowerpot for cultivation.
Two.Daily Management of Hydroponic Pothos
Hydroponic pothos is generally placed in a sunny spot indoors, where it can maintain a warm temperature and relatively good light to promote plant growth. In addition, it cannot directly receive sunlight. In winter, especially when grown in the north of China where winter is very cold, insulation measures should be taken appropriately at this time. At different stages of hydroponic pothos growth, additional fertilization should be carried out according to growth needs to ensure nutrient supply. Hydroponic pothos has relatively high water requirements, so the soil should be kept moist. Water heavily once a month, and then wipe the leaves every day to keep them fresh. Regularly prune hydroponic pothos to keep the branches and leaves shapely and emerald green, and prevent and treat pests and diseases.
Three.Natural Habits of Hydroponic Pothos
Hydroponic pothos is a green plant with high ornamental value. Its emerald, graceful appearance and very long branches and leaves can hang downward like a gauze curtain, very beautiful, adding not only greenery but also tenderness to the interior, and it is a very popular ornamental plant on the market. Hydroponic pothos is a plant that grows in tropical regions. Its branches have climbing ability and can attach to objects to grow, hanging down like a waterfall, very beautiful. Hydroponic pothos grows in tropical regions and likes warm, humid climatic environments. It has relatively high temperature requirements and cannot be too cold in winter. It has relatively high requirements for rainwater and moisture and likes humid environments. Hydroponic pothos is suitable for growing in fertile, moist soil with good drainage.
During care, attention must be paid to the following aspects:
1. Light 2. Temperature 3. Humidity 4. Water 5. Fertilization and Pruning

Winter Care for Pothos
Pothos likes heat and humidity, and its optimal growing temperature is 20°C to 30°C. Creating a suitable growing environment for it in winter is the key to successful care. In terms of care, attention should be paid to the following aspects:
Light
Pothos does not have a strong heliotropic tendency, but in winter, to compensate for the lack of temperature and photosynthesis, its light exposure should be increased. The method is to place the pothos in the brightest spot indoors, or move it to a sealed balcony at noon to sunbathe. At the same time, when the temperature is low, open windows as little as possible, because in a very short time the leaves may be frostbitten.
Temperature
In the north, with an indoor temperature above 10°C, pothos can safely overwinter; with an indoor temperature above 20°C, pothos can grow normally. Generally, households can reach this temperature without much problem. What needs attention is avoiding excessive temperature differences, and also making sure the leaves do not get close to heating equipment.
Humidity
Under the condition of maintaining normal temperature, increasing humidity is extremely beneficial to plant growth. Humidity can be increased by the following methods: place the plant near a humidifier, with the humidifier running for more than 5 hours each day; use a sprayer adjusted to the mist setting to spray the plant's leaves, stems, and aerial roots several times a day; keep an appropriate amount of water in the saucer under the flowerpot, using its evaporation to increase the local humidity around the plant; gently wipe the leaf surface with a cold wet towel or toilet paper, or apply it lightly to the leaf surface for a short time (1-2 hours per day); cover the plant with transparent plastic film to create a mini-greenhouse effect, supplementing the plant's moisture through evaporation of water vapor from the soil, for no more than 2 hours per day, as too long will affect the plant's ventilation and photosynthesis.
Water
In winter, the amount of watering should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. After heating begins, watering should not be too frequent, and less water should be poured into the pot; water should seep through the coir. In addition, water should also be sprayed on the aerial roots on the coir pole to reduce insufficient root water uptake caused by overly rapid evaporation. For winter watering, water that has been left to stand for a day is better; water that is too cold easily damages the roots.
Fertilizer
In winter, plant growth is slow, so less fertilizer should be applied. After the beginning of winter, fertilization should mainly be foliar spraying. Special-purpose fertilizer should be used for foliar fertilizer; ordinary inorganic fertilizers are not easily absorbed. Foliar fertilizers such as the Beida Huahushen series and Japan-produced Hana Ichiban can be used.

Pothos Variety Classification
Pothos has many aliases around the world, including Australian native monstera, centipede tongavine, devil's ivy, golden pothos, hunter's robe, ivy arum, money plant, silver vine, Solomon Islands ivy, taro vine, and others.
Green-leaf pothos: the leaves are entirely green, with no patterns or mixed colors;
Yellow-leaf pothos (golden pothos): the leaves are light golden yellow, and the leaves are relatively thin;
Variegated pothos: variegated pothos refers to pothos whose leaves have markings of various colors. According to the color and characteristics of the patterns, 3 variants have been discovered so far;
Silver pothos (E. a. 'Marble Queen'): the leaves have creamy white markings, and it is sturdier than the original variety;
Golden pothos (E. a. 'Golden Pothos'): the leaves have irregular yellow stripes;
Tricolor pothos (E. a. 'Tricolor'): the leaf surface has green, yellow, and creamy white markings;
Satin pothos: the leaf surface is velvety green, covered with silvery-green patches or spots;
2008 new variety pothos 'N'Joy': it is the first variety to appear with curled leaves. The leaves are relatively small, and the leaf color is green with white markings.

Distribution range of pothos
Pothos is native to the tropical rainforest regions of Central and South America. Today, it is cultivated artificially in gardens and indoors in various places across the country, including Shanghai, Jiangsu, Fujian, Taiwan, China, Guangdong, and Guangxi.
Pothos, also known as golden pothos, has been widely distributed around the world since ancient times, including South Australia, Malaysia, Indochina, China, Japan, and India. In modern times, it has been introduced to most tropical and subtropical forests worldwide.
Native to the tropical rainforest regions of Central and South America. Today, it is cultivated artificially in gardens and indoors in various places across the country, including Shanghai, Jiangsu, Fujian, Taiwan, China, Guangdong, and Guangxi.

The role and uses of pothos: ornamental value
Pothos is one of the finest indoor decorative plants, a climbing vine grown for its foliage. Its stems are slender and soft, and its leaves are delicate and elegant. Place a pot on top of a cabinet, letting its trailing stems hang down gracefully, or once the trailing stems grow too long, loop and hang them into a ring, just like an emerald relief. This not only makes full use of space and purifies the air, but also adds a lively, brightly colored green decoration to an otherwise dull cabinet surface, full of vitality and bringing a warm charm to the room.
Pothos is an evergreen vine with yellow patches on its green leaves that are very glossy. It can be placed in a study or on a high windowsill, letting its trailing stems hang down gracefully, just like an emerald relief. This not only makes full use of space, but also adds a lively, brightly colored green decoration to the room, full of charm. In addition, it can be grown in water as a delicate little decoration for the room.
It has strong twining ability and well-developed aerial roots. It can be allowed to climb on a column wrapped with palm fiber and placed in an entrance hall or hotel, or trained into a hanging form and placed in a study or on a windowsill. It is a flower suitable for indoor placement. This not only makes full use of space and purifies the air, but also adds a lively, brightly colored green decoration to an otherwise dull cabinet surface, full of vitality and bringing a warm charm to the room. Its flower meaning, "guarding happiness," also adds to its ornamental appeal.
Greening value
Pothos not only has strong vitality, but when placed indoors, its air-purifying ability is no less than that of ivy and spider plants. Pothos can absorb benzene, trichloroethylene, formaldehyde, and other substances from the air. According to environmental scientists, a newly renovated home should be well ventilated, and at the same time, using Maya Blue harmful gas adsorbent and then placing a few pots of pothos can basically meet the standard for moving in. Newly laid flooring very easily produces harmful substances. Because pothos can simultaneously purify benzene, trichloroethylene, and formaldehyde from the air, it is very suitable for placement in newly renovated rooms.
A green purifier. Pothos is a relatively common green plant, with long branches trailing down and swaying gracefully, easily making a space come alive with vitality. Pothos also has an extremely strong air-purifying function and is known as a green purifier. Pothos can convert formaldehyde into substances such as sugars or amino acids during metabolism, and can also break down and absorb benzene emitted by copiers and printers. Therefore, whether in a home or an office, it is a great air purifier.
Environmental value
Environmental scientists have found that one pot of pothos in a room of 8 to 10 sq m is equivalent to an air purifier, effectively absorbing harmful gases such as formaldehyde, benzene, and trichloroethylene from the air. Pothos not only has strong vitality, but when placed indoors, its air-purifying ability is no less than that of ivy and spider plants. Newly laid flooring very easily produces harmful substances. Because pothos can simultaneously purify benzene, trichloroethylene, and formaldehyde from the air, it is very suitable for placement in newly renovated rooms.

Landscape uses of pothos
Pothos has colorful leaves and remains green all year round. It is an excellent foliage plant, suitable for greening walls, wall edges, and tree trunks, and can also be used as ground cover under tree shade.
Dietary therapy or medicinal value of pothos
The medical information and health dietary therapy information on Huahua Network is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health issues should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and the treatment of any disease should follow a doctor's advice.
The ultimate flower-care mission: love yourself, start from reality, and strictly follow a doctor's advice. Toward illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope; face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and care for the flower field within your heart.
Medicinal value
Effects: invigorates blood and disperses stasis.
Indications: used for traumatic injuries.
Nature, flavor, and meridian entry: pungent, neutral. Kidney meridian.
Usage and dosage: oral administration: decocted in water, 3 to 9 grams.
External use: appropriate amount, mashed and applied.
Textual research: first recorded in "Flora of Guangzhou."

Clever decorative uses of pothos
Pothos is an excellent plant for purifying formaldehyde and ammonia, and placing it near a computer also has a relatively good anti-radiation effect. However, its sap is toxic, so children should avoid touching it.
1.Pothos pot column
In its natural environment, pothos grows by clinging to tree trunks with aerial roots and growing upward. Based on this habit, gardeners weave pothos columns for people to enjoy.
The specific method is: erect a support post covered with palm fiber in the center of the pot (bamboo or wooden poles can also be used), build up flower soil around the base, pack it firm, then plant three or four small pothos seedlings around the post, and use fine string to tie these branches and leaves spirally to the post, and the pothos column is complete. After that, strengthen water and fertilizer management. Once it has grown into a lush green pothos column, place it in a courtyard, hall, office, or room, making people feel surrounded by greenery, quiet and fresh, and full of wild charm.
2.Wall hanging and suspension
Pothos vines grow several meters long, with soft branches and leaves hanging down. Several stems can be grown in water or soil, then hung in a bamboo basket or hanging pot in front of a window or in the center of a room. Its long green branches and trailing leaves hang low, soft and elegant, pleasing to the eye and refreshing to the spirit.
3.Water cultivation for viewing
Soak pothos stems in a water bottle, and the stems can remain full of vitality for several years. If paired with other flowers, it also has a unique charm.
4.Greening rockeries
Around rockeries in courtyards, plants often struggle to grow well due to poor conditions, but pothos can grow very well. Planting pothos not only beautifies the rockery, but also lets you enjoy its graceful branches and hanging green leaves, embellishing the rockery so it becomes lively and full of interest.

Precautions for pothos
Like peace lilies, pothos belongs to the Araceae family, and its toxic part is mainly its sap.
It is a fact that pothos is toxic, and keeping pothos at home is also fine, because as long as you do not consume the sap of pothos, it will not cause poisoning. Although the sap of pothos is toxic, it is only mildly toxic. During cultivation, even if you touch the leaves of pothos, as long as you do not directly consume them, it will not affect your body. In addition, many people now grow pothos hydroponically. If you touch the water used for cultivation, as long as you do not drink it, it is generally not harmful.
Of course, accidental ingestion is one aspect, and contact is also an issue to pay attention to during cultivation. As a plant with mildly toxic sap, accidental ingestion may cause allergic reactions. Therefore, during everyday cultivation, everyone should especially be careful not to put it in the mouth, and it is best not to let food come into contact with pothos. Regarding the effects of pothos sap on the body, experts say that the sap of pothos is toxic. Whether an adult or a child, skin contact may cause redness, swelling, and itching, and accidental ingestion may also cause throat pain. For toxic plants such as pothos, the toxins mainly come from the sap in the plant stems. Even if they are planted at home or in the office, as long as you do not directly touch the sap with your hands, it will not cause poisoning.
It can thus be seen that pothos can be grown, and according to gardening experts, plants such as pothos and peace lilies actually do more good than harm for the public. Although their sap is toxic, they can all absorb formaldehyde and also have a very good air-cleaning effect, so everyone does not need to turn pale at the mention of toxicity, nor think that they should not be grown because they are toxic. Moreover, keeping pothos at home is very useful for purifying the home environment, so everyone can still choose to grow pothos at home.

The flower meaning of pothos
Pothos is one of the most popular indoor hanging plants. Its stems are slender and soft, and its leaves are delicate and elegant. Place a pot on top of a cabinet, letting its trailing stems hang down gracefully, or once the trailing stems grow too long, loop and hang them into a ring, just like an emerald relief. This not only makes full use of space, but also, pothos can effectively absorb harmful gases such as formaldehyde, benzene, and trichloroethylene from the air, making it an effective air purifier.
The ornamental value of pothos and its air-purifying effect have brought pothos into countless homes. At the same time, the flower meanings of pothos, "resilience and kindness" and "guarding happiness," give people an extra layer of expectation when growing pothos.
Pothos flower meaning 1: resilience and kindness.
Pothos is a herbaceous plant with extremely strong vitality. It can grow as long as there is water, and is also called the "flower of life." Its spreading green branches and leaves are very easy to satisfy, and even drinking water feels like happiness. The resilient and kind pothos asks for very little but gives everyone a great deal in return.
Pothos flower meaning 2: guarding happiness.
Pothos comes to life upon contact with water. Because of its strong vitality, it is called the "flower of life." Its spreading green branches and leaves are very easy to satisfy, and even drinking water makes it feel happy.
Pothos rarely blooms. The pothos flower belongs to a precious plant unique to Tibet and is produced in the cold regions of Tibet and the Himalayas. Pothos grown at home never blooms. Some people say that the greatest dream of pothos is to be able to produce beautiful flowers. They work tirelessly for this dream, looking forward to the arrival of happiness.

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