Detailed Guide to Growing Nasturtium: Beautiful Flowers Blooming on Schedule

Although this flower is not as difficult to keep alive as people say, it still needs to be grown in the way it requires. First, we need to understand what kind of environment nasturtium likes. Only by knowing what kind of environment allows it to grow better can we make it more luxuriant.

Nasturtium likes moisture best, so it must be placed in an environment that is not too dry. If your home environment is too dry, you can spray a little water on its leaves with a spray bottle every morning and evening, but remember never to water too frequently or too much, because nasturtium roots do not have a strong water-storage system, and too much watering will cause root rot.

Nasturtium is a flower that greatly loves sunlight. Apart from avoiding direct sun exposure at noon in summer, in other seasons the more sunlight the better. In northern regions, once the weather turns cool, do not keep it outdoors anymore, because nasturtium fears cold, and once it suffers frost, it is hard for it to recover. In winter, during the coldest weather, if it is not a warm apartment, be sure to wrap the nasturtium with plastic film. Only in this way can it safely overwinter.

When growing nasturtium, it should be fertilized once every 20 days, but the fertilizer should not be too strong. If using a flower nutrient solution, dilute it with water at a ratio of 1 to 500 before watering the roots. If using organic fertilizer, bury 5 to 10 granules of fertilizer in the soil and then water. After nasturtium blooms, stop fertilizing and reduce watering frequency, otherwise the stems and leaves will grow wildly and it will be reluctant to bloom.

Every April, nasturtium needs to be repotted and the soil changed. At this time, it can be propagated by cuttings. If you do not like cuttings, you can also keep seeds after nasturtium blooms and sow them in August or September. Sowing is most suitable in autumn, while cuttings are most suitable in spring. So no matter which propagation method is used, the timing must be clear.

Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key Points for Spring Flower Planting

Flower Planting Manual (February Edition)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and, after January, the coldest period of the year. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition toward spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy into a recovery stage. The main flower-related tasks this month are as follows: first, continue doing a good job of cold protection and heat preservation for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowers after blooming; third, make preliminary preparations for cuttings, grafting propagation, and sowing propagation for some flower species.

   1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February include: Calendula officinalis, Cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, Asparagus setaceus, Gloxinia, tuberous begonia, Carthamus tinctorius, Centaurea cyanus, Gaillardia, strawflower, Salvia splendens, marigold, dwarf petunia, California poppy, Phlox, Calceolaria, Schizanthus, snapdragon, Tropaeolum, pansy, etc. Those that can be sown outdoors in the open field at the end of February include: seeds of magnolia species, Michelia species, Photinia species, Acer species, and Malus species (Rosaceae) that have already cracked and shown white after sand stratification, as well as Cinnamomum camphora, Liriodendron chinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, palm, Koelreuteria paniculata, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus chinensis, Syringa, etc.; seeds of Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Wisteria sinensis, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours, and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and Hippeastrum bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film for moisture retention in February include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches of cultivars such as Gongfen and L�), Nandina domestica, Hibiscus mutabilis (southern regions), Lagerstroemia indica, Daphne odora (southern regions), Edgeworthia chrysantha, Punica granatum, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum officinale, Serissa japonica, Hibiscus syriacus, Hypericum (mei), Spiraea, Mahonia, Buxus species, and Corchoropsis tomentosa, etc. Sand-stored branches of Syringa and Campsis can also be used for cuttings at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela florida, Deutzia scabra, Hydrangea macrophylla, Tamarix chinensis, Platanus orientalis, Vitis vinifera, Ficus carica, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for cuttings at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by indoor cuttings in February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, Saintpaulia (leaf cuttings), Begonia maculata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Salvia splendens, Pelargonium, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Crassula ovata, Portulacaria afra, Echeveria, Graptopetalum, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum hybrid, Pilea cadierei, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera arboricola, Aglaonema modestum, Cordyline fruticosa, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, Pinus parviflora, lacebark pine, etc., then plant in the ground and cover with film for heat and moisture retention. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. by cut grafting. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on Chimonanthus praecox branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use Chimonanthus praecox seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock and cut-graft superior cultivars such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou' and 'Huti', using bagging and inflation for moisture retention; the survival rate is relatively high. Use thick branches of the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar as rootstock-scion, and cut-graft or cleft-graft scions of superior rose cultivars. By first grafting, then cuttings, and then covering with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection, the grafting survival rate can be greatly increased.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliiflora, Gardenia jasminoides, Weigela florida, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum, Hydrangea macrophylla, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Iris, Belamcanda chinensis, Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope muscari, Liriope spicata var. variegata, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, Dicentra spectabilis, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Ornithogalum, bromeliads, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Chlorophytum species, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Canna indica, Maranta, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium podophyllum, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia miniata, Aloe, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Nandina domestica, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hypericum, Mahonia, Hydrangea macrophylla, Chaenomeles speciosa, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana sinica, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Damnacanthus indicus, Magnolia liliiflora, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Bambusa multiplex, Sasa fortunei, etc.

    1. Seed collection. In February, seeds of Nandina domestica, Ilex species, Ardisia crenata, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc. can be collected, processed, and then sand-stored for germination. They can be sown only after the seeds crack and show white. For Clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial pollination can be provided in order to obtain Clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various sand-stored flower and tree seeds to see whether any seeds have become moldy. If mold occurs, clean them promptly; if seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with spraying water to maintain a certain humidity in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, sow them within a relatively short time. Once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle, affecting the seed emergence rate. Large sand-stored seeds can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection.

    2. Transplanting and field planting. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and temperatures are relatively high, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and field-planted include: Dianthus species, snapdragon, Alcea rosea, variegated holly, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be field-planted. Among deciduous types, such as Hibiscus syriacus, Punica granatum, Cercis chinensis, Malus species, Ginkgo biloba, Liquidambar formosana, Acer species, Wisteria sinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Chimonanthus praecox, plum blossom (before budding and leafing out), Magnolia species, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Aesculus chinensis, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, Chaenomeles sinensis, Campsis, Tilia, Liriodendron chinense, ornamental peach, Sapium sebiferum, Spiraea, Triadica sebifera, Deutzia scabra, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum (mei), Salix babylonica, Salix babylonica var. aureo-pendula, Hibiscus mutabilis, Cotinus coggygria, Diospyros kaki, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia species, Cinnamomum camphora, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Ligustrum sinense, Machilus, Phoebe sheareri, etc., can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; Osmanthus fragrans, Ligustrum lucidum, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Platycladus orientalis, black pine, etc., should be given moderate pruning when planted.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (or tunnel) maintenance, potted ornamental plants have consumed relatively more nutrients, and the resistance of the plants has greatly declined, so work on moisture retention and cold protection should continue carefully. If the greenhouse or plastic tunnel has heating facilities, continue heating and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, they can continue to be hung; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, even more care should be taken.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities, ventilation and air exchange should continue. Especially by the end of February, ventilation time can be extended during the period of highest daily temperature. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to put them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For a small number of cold-sensitive flowers kept at home, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea, Syngonium podophyllum, Begonia masoniana, Codiaeum variegatum, Dieffenbachia, etc., during especially cold weather, plastic bags can be put over them at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom and heating appliances such as a "bathroom heater" turned on to ensure they overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. Because February temperatures are relatively low, for the vast majority of potted flowers, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can safely overwinter, because root growth has stopped at this time and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor environments, frequently spray water and mist on the leaves to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color and luster and flower buds to stop growing; in severe cases leaves shrivel and wrinkle and flower buds shrink and fall off. For example, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, plum blossom, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', kumquat, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc., may all show bud drop and fruit drop, or even death. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should basically match the indoor or tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Pericallis hybrida, Primula, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, Calendula officinalis, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as Pyracantha, Nandina, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, lemon, Ardisia crenata, Calamondin, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds, and fruits. Only in this way can the leaves remain emerald green, the flower buds expand rapidly, and the fruits be brightly colored. Especially for forced peonies, plum blossoms, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. placed in plastic tunnels, branches must also be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of flower buds so they can bloom as scheduled. For large-flowered Cymbidium purchased after being cultivated in greenhouses or tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse or tunnel differ greatly from those at home, if the leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often shrivel and dry out. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., the potting soil must be kept moist and the plants sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    Although most potted flowers need little water in February, inspections should be strengthened. Especially during several consecutive days of rising temperatures, supplemental watering and spraying should be increased in a timely manner.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, supplemental watering should be done in a timely manner. Especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, appropriate leaf spraying should also be done around noon on clear days to prevent leaf shriveling and falling afterward, which would affect spring growth recovery.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, continue to bury base fertilizer for most field-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. They can be applied by digging ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the root system, then covering with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Pericallis hybrida, Primula, Cyclamen, Belgian azalea, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne odora, plum blossom, European narcissus, hyacinth, tulip, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum hybrid, Neoregalia, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia miniata, etc., low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate can continue to be applied as a top dressing to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and stump bonsai placed in tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.

    4. Pruning. In February, for field-planted or potted plum blossoms, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, etc. after flowering, heavy renewal pruning can be carried out. For branches that have bloomed, except for retaining only 2 to 3 buds at the base, all the rest should be cut off to encourage many new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, water shoots, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For stump bonsai types mainly shaped by pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ficus microcarpa, Acer buergerianum, Ehretia microphylla, Xylosma congesta, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedui', Adina rubella, Elaeagnus pungens, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Serissa japonica, Juniperus formosana, Juniperus rigida, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them while pruning.

    5. Repotting. From late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is resuming growth, and leaf buds have not yet emerged. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Brunfelsia, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Fuchsia, Begonia maculata, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia rex, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cycas revoluta, Clivia miniata, Haworthia, Aloe, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum hybrid, Sedum, Crassula ovata, Portulacaria afra, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Hippeastrum, Asparagus setaceus, Chlorophytum, Araucaria heterophylla, Schefflera arboricola, Rohdea japonica, Strelitzia reginae, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia carnea, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hydrangea macrophylla, Nandina domestica, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', kumquat, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted Pericallis hybrida in greenhouses, and gray mold appearing on Primula leaves, etc., at the early stage of disease, spray 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution once every 10 days, for 2 to 3 consecutive sprays.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted Cyclamen in tunnels, spray 50% iprodione wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution.

For potted Belgian azaleas in tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao" on the leaves, because at this time the temperature is low and humidity in the tunnel is high, making it difficult for the plant leaves to absorb foliar fertilizer. On the contrary, it easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants, and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai' and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush; when there are many insects, spray 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution to kill them. After aphids, scale insects, and ants are killed, sooty mold will also disappear accordingly.

For insect bodies such as, white peach scale, oystershell scale, and blackish-brown circular scale appearing on potted flower plants in tunnels, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol. They can also be killed by spraying 2.5% cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% isofenphos-methyl granules in the flowerpot.

Continue clearing fallen branches and leaves under flowers and trees, and diseased branches and insect-infested leaves on potted plants, and burn them in a centralized manner. This can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and seal for fermentation, so that it can be diluted during the growing season for watering potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc.; after about 2 months, spread it out to dry in the sun, and after fully drying, package it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and dried granular cake fertilizer powder can be spread in flowerpots as a top dressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, large-flowered Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and other potted flower types, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer. Especially when growing flowers on a balcony, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used for mixing potting soil.

    8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, continue turning and cultivating garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, dig trenches and make beds for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include: Sabina chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus formosana, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis 'Zhenbai', Ginkgo biloba, Serissa japonica, Juniperus procumbens, Pinus parviflora, Pinus hwangshanensis, black pine, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', Adina rubella, Caragana sinica, Prunus mume 'Xiao Jinqian', Corylopsis sinensis, Chaenomeles speciosa, Lagerstroemia indica, Ficus microcarpa, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, etc.

Continue re-wiring and adjusting plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If binding constriction marks or sunken areas are found on the plant, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, then replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue good heat preservation and cold protection work, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing and cracking apart, causing unnecessary losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March Edition)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Field-planted flower species

If the area in front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain extent, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively sun-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Field-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, Ginkgo biloba, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, Magnolia × soulangeana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, Viburnum macrocephalum, Diospyros kaki, Hibiscus mutabilis, Liriodendron chinense, plum blossom, rose, Ficus carica, Camellia japonica, Lagerstroemia indica, tree peony, Punica granatum, Wisteria sinensis, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, Nandina domestica, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Cercis chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, Phoenix canariensis, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, then choose some flower and tree species suited to shady and damp conditions, such as Trachycarpus fortunei, Photinia, Aucuba japonica, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis, Cedrus deodara, Chimonanthus praecox, Musa basjoo, clustered bamboo, etc. Regardless of the light, dryness, or moisture in your courtyard, the following points should be noted when choosing field-planted flowers and trees: first, the minimum temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid frost damage; second, they should be suited to local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid incompatibility; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of mature large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to obstruct the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic components; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-specification plants, which can achieve greening and beautification effects earlier, such as Ginkgo biloba, Japanese fir, Osmanthus fragrans, plum blossom, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc., whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some open space for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant species suitable for field planting. Sun-loving, light-loving ones include Dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, Salvia splendens, Celosia argentea, Gomphrena globosa, Sedum spectabile, marigold, Alcea rosea, Impatiens, Lupinus, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, Papaver rhoeas, Zephyranthes candida, Dahlia, etc. Relatively shade-tolerant herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant species include: Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope muscari, Reineckea carnea, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Lycoris radiata, Rohdea japonica, Tradescantia spathacea, Aspidistra elatior, Iris, Acorus calamus, Saxifraga stolonifera, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for pot cultivation in household courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, you can choose to plant some flower species that require relatively meticulous management, such as plum blossom, Aglaia odorata, Camellia japonica, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Chimonanthus praecox, Belgian azalea, Araucaria heterophylla, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, King coconut, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Ardisia crenata, bromeliads, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix wood), Fagraea ceilanica (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum species (commonly known as peace tree), Zantedeschia aethiopica, Primula, large-flowered Cymbidium, Anthurium andraeanum, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, Cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia reginae, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Clivia miniata, Epipremnum aureum, Fittonia, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Syngonium podophyllum, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', lemon, tulip, hyacinth, Calceolaria, Caryota urens, Dypsis lutescens, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poor conditions, you can grow some types that require relatively extensive management, such as Nandina domestica, Cycas revoluta, Rhapis excelsa, Chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hippeastrum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana sinica, Serissa japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', cacti, Asparagus setaceus, Ficus elastica, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum hybrid, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Schefflera arboricola, Pilea cadierei, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Bougainvillea, Euphorbia milii, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron pulchrum, Ficus microcarpa, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Liriodendron chinense. The latter five species all need their seeds soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown for seedling propagation after sand stratification and germination include: Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Podocarpus nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Livistona chinensis, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia species, Osmanthus fragrans, Aesculus chinensis, Nandina domestica, Ilex species, Punica granatum, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Impatiens, marigold, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Salvia splendens, Celosia argentea, ornamental pepper, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Primula obconica, Malva species, Mirabilis jalapa, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia miniata, Asparagus setaceus, etc. Some cold-intolerant species should be sown inside plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cuttings. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum hybrid, Portulacaria afra, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Hydrangea macrophylla, Nandina domestica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Salix leucopithecia, Hypericum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Punica granatum, Ficus carica, Fatsia japonica, Gardenia jasminoides, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, Sabina chinensis, Daphne odora, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should be taken in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side-graft to propagate Japanese white pine, Pinus parviflora 'Daxue', Pinus parviflora, etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliiflora seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft to propagate Michelia, Magnolia × soulangeana, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select scions from superior Chimonanthus praecox cultivars, perform cut grafting and bag them for moisture retention; the survival rate is relatively high; using Hylocereus undatus as rootstock, graft-propagate Schlumbergera and various cactus ball types, preferably in tunnels. In addition, Camellia japonica, cherry blossom, Osmanthus fragrans, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc. can also be graft-propagated in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis var. erecta, Michelia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Viburnum macrocephalum, Gardenia jasminoides, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliiflora, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchids, Dicentra spectabilis, Aspidistra elatior, Asparagus setaceus, Cycas revoluta, Nandina domestica, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Sansevieria trifasciata, Oxalis triangularis, Canna × generalis, Alpinia zerumbet, Dahlia, Strelitzia reginae, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of field-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and field-planting courtyard flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting plum blossom, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia × soulangeana, Liriodendron chinense, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants bud and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; transplanting Chimonanthus praecox, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, Aesculus chinensis, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc. is fine even after budding, but appropriate pruning is still needed. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, when transplanting, a sufficient soil ball must be kept. Generally, the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For field-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertilizer in winter, before they sprout, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of the root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon manure, etc., or a multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, etc. after flowering, besides necessarily pruning off dead branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, and excessive flowering shoots, one-year-old branches can be cut at 2 to 3 cm from the base, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through heavy renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, favoring flowering the following year. For Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, etc., after flowering, prune off branches that damage the plant shape, and also prune off some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For Punica granatum, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus fragrans, etc., which form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust plant shape and improve ventilation and light conditions.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them. This can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases that year. For some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as rose, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, grape, Malus halliana, etc., spraying Bordeaux mixture, etc. promptly after leaf expansion can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust.

    2. Management of field-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and field-planted in March include: Dianthus, snapdragon, Calendula officinalis, Bellis perennis, Alcea rosea, Malva, Liriope spicata var. variegata, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes carinata, Iris, Reineckea carnea, Ophiopogon japonicus, Ophiopogon japonicus, Oxalis corymbosa, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have resumed growth, such as ornamental kale and pansy, first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted Chimonanthus praecox, plum blossom, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Pyracantha, Japanese white pine, Nandina, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma congesta, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedui', etc. placed in the open, repot before they sprout and leaf out, replacing the soil with loose, fertile fresh potting soil rich in organic matter, to lay a foundation for spring and summer growth. For Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, rose, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Strelitzia reginae, Cycas revoluta, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Camellia sasanqua, Camellia japonica, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, lemon, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Clivia miniata, Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta, etc. placed indoors, repot before moving out.

(2) Hardening. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor maintenance in March, and equal attention must be paid to both cold protection and ventilation. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold fronts occasionally move south, cold protection and heat preservation work must continue in early and mid-March. In late March, doors and windows of the room can be opened during the day for ventilation and closed at night, so that Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Ficus elastica, Araucaria heterophylla, etc. can gradually undergo hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding premature sprouting that would affect that year's growth and normal flowering. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, heat preservation and cold protection work still need to continue this month, and must not be taken lightly.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia alba, Cycas revoluta, Ficus elastica, Caryota urens, Dypsis lutescens, Codiaeum variegatum, Asparagus setaceus, and begonias, combine repotting with necessary pruning, including removing diseased and insect-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches, and some yellowed leaves. For plants mainly appreciated as stumps, such as Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis 'Zhenbai', Pinus hwangshanensis, black pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedui', Xylosma congesta, Syzygium buxifolium, etc., wiring and pruning can also be done in March before sprouting to further improve their shape. For plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, rose, ornamental peach, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, etc., heavy renewal pruning can be done after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, nor is it possible for all to live on the first floor with a relatively good small flower-growing environment. More often, people grow some relatively resistant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Among ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting, one category is relatively drought-tolerant plant species. Their surfaces or cuticles are thickened, or they are covered with wax, or their plant bodies are fleshy and thick and contain more sap, or their leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like forms with very little transpiration water loss, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, thus being very drought-tolerant, such as Cycas revoluta, cacti (Opuntia microdasys, Cereus peruvianus, Crassula lycopodioides, Echinocactus grusonii, Trichocereus, Astrophytum, Aporocactus flagelliformis, coral tree), Portulacaria afra, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum hybrid, Pereskia, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, etc. Also Chimonanthus praecox, Jasminum nudiflorum, Lycoris radiata, Spathiphyllum, Aglaonema modestum, Chlorophytum, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is also another category of flower species relatively tolerant of sunlight exposure and dry hot winds, able to accept full light and resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, also suitable for balcony pot cultivation, especially on high-floor balconies, such as Punica granatum, rose, Ficus microcarpa, Agave, Ligustrum quihoui, Agave americana, Hippeastrum, Sageretia thea, Xylosma congesta, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, black pine, Juniperus formosana, Juniperus chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Vitex negundo, Euonymus, longevity peach, Portulaca grandiflora, etc. In addition, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Japanese white pine, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra elatior, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', lemon, Ficus elastica, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Camellia japonica, Schefflera arboricola, Araucaria heterophylla, etc. can also be used as balcony pot plants on slightly lower floors, but water and shading management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony pot cultivation, such as Salvia splendens, ornamental pepper, Solanum pseudocapsicum, marigold, Impatiens, dwarf petunia, etc., can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of Asparagus setaceus or Clivia seeds is collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and after the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, move them to an outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum hybrid, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, coral tree, Crassula lycopodioides, etc. can be propagated by cuttings indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flowerpot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as the cutting medium, and propagate by cuttings indoors near a window sill with relatively good light, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Fuchsia, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Punica granatum 'Nana', Chaenomeles speciosa, Nandina domestica, Daphne odora, Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot opening must be covered well with plastic film for moisture retention.

On the balcony, when grafting Japanese white pine, Pinus parviflora, plum blossom, longevity peach, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Chimonanthus praecox, etc., bagging for moisture retention must be carried out, otherwise survival is not easy.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony pot cultivation are still indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation, and light exposure, plants that need repotting should be repotted in a timely manner. For relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on balconies, the potting soil should be kept from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants that year, but in severe cases cause plant death. Measures such as building temporary shelters on site or moving them indoors or into tunnels for cold protection can be taken.

    2. Pruning. For stumps such as Chimonanthus praecox, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, black pine, Japanese white pine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ligustrum quihoui, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil can be replaced. For bonsai placed on balconies, keep the potting soil moist as the standard, water once every 3 to 5 days, and appropriately spray water. For plum blossom, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Chimonanthus praecox, longevity peach, Camellia japonica, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to promote maintenance of a good plant shape. Conduct a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cut off branches and leaves infected by pests and diseases, and destroy them. For dried and cracked cut surfaces on stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture, etc. as antiseptic treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board (precast reinforced concrete) supported above it, using the humidity produced by evaporation from the pool. In summer, place some flowers that relatively prefer humid air on it, such as orchids, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Ardisia crenata, Nandina domestica, etc. The stored water is relatively ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out, you can also first set up stepped racks on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer, so that once potted flowers are moved out and encounter overly strong sunlight, shading measures can quickly be put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare potting soil for repotting, and prepare sufficient various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Edition)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, warm and humid air currents from the south become stronger and stronger, and temperatures rise significantly. After Qingming, although there are occasional effects of southward-moving cold air, they can no longer pose a threat to most potted flowers south of the Huai River. Only in areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River is there still damage from snow and frost. By Guyu, late frost has ended in areas south of the Jianghuai region, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases markedly. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for maintenance; but in the Huaibei region, potted flowers can only be moved out after late frost ends in May. From south to north in April, flower-related tasks are as follows:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include Cleome spinosa, Mirabilis jalapa, Celosia argentea, Amaranthus tricolor, Portulaca grandiflora, Dahlia pinnata, Gomphrena globosa, Salvia splendens, Impatiens, Ipomoea, Quamoclit coccinea, Quamoclit coccinea, Nicotiana tabacum, dwarf petunia, Callistephus chinensis, Coreopsis lanceolata, Coreopsis tinctoria, marigold, red-yellow chrysanthemum, Zinnia elegans, Asparagus setaceus, Primula obconica, Tropaeolum majus, Kochia scoparia, Abutilon, Euphorbia heterophylla, Ocimum basilicum, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Cosmos, Adenophora, Mimosa pudica, etc. Magnoliaceae flower and tree species that can be sown in April after sand storage include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia cylindrica, Magnolia zenii, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia sprengeri, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia pseudokobus, Manglietia, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia ruyuanensis, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia, Michelia floribunda, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia wilsonii, Liriodendron chinense, Liriodendron chinense hybrid, Liriodendron tulipifera, etc.; can be sown in April

Other greening flowers and trees include: Japanese fir, Sciadopitys verticillata, Araucaria heterophylla, Pseudolarix amabilis, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Albizia julibrissin, Taxus chinensis, Pittosporum tobira, Sapium sebiferum, Koelreuteria bipinnata, Sapindus mukorossi, Liquidambar formosana, Acer species, Ormosia henryi, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Exochorda racemosa, Lycium chinense, Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Trachycarpus fortunei, etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown as collected in April include: Gerbera, Asparagus setaceus, Primula, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Fatsia japonica, and Solanum mammosum, etc. Among them, for Fatsia japonica, fruits that have turned black, whitish, and soft can be picked at the end of April, the seeds washed out, and sown on fertile seedling beds. The seeds can also first be sand-stored until they crack and show white, then sown, covered with grass for moisture retention. Generally after about two weeks, after about 70% of the seeds have emerged, remove the covering grass promptly and set up shading. For cultivating Solanum mammosum, peel the skin off the collected golden-yellow fruits, wash out the seeds, soak the seeds in warm water for 24 hours, and sow in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days, the seeds can germinate and emerge. When the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted. They can be potted for fruit viewing or field-planted and cultivated as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flower and tree species that can be grafted in April include: Chimonanthus praecox, Sophora japonica var. pendula, ornamental peach, Prunus persica 'Densa', Robinia hispida, as well as cactus balls and Schlumbergera, etc.

    3. Division

Greenhouse foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily (Spathiphyllum), snake plant (Sansevieria), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra), ferns, broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis), spider plant (Chlorophytum), agave, silver king dieffenbachia, Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), arrowroot family (Maranta/Calathea), aloe, peperomia, Swiss cheese plant (Monstera), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, and others. Flowering plants that can be divided in April include: gardenia, Wuchang maple, blackberry lily, snapdragon, purple jasmine, kaffir lily, lotus, turmeric, ginger lily, ginger, large-flowered lily, spring lily, and so on; those that can be divided include: large-flowered lily, flower-leaf lily, beauty banana, etc. Also, water lilies and lotus can also be divided and propagated at this time.

    4. Cuttings

For most flower and tree species that root easily, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can all be propagated by cuttings in April. The main species include: boxwood (Buxus), mahonia (Mahonia), heavenly bamboo (Nandina), cypress (Cupressus), podocarpus (Podocarpus), pomegranate, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia), redbud (Cercis), firethorn (Pyracantha), spiraea (Spiraea), tulip tree (Liriodendron), bridal wreath spiraea, winter daphne (Edgeworthia), flowering quince (Chaenomeles), and others.

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if during repotting not too much old soil is removed and the root system is not excessively pruned, they can be repotted in April. However, it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowering trees, if the new shoots are too long, especially for plum blossoms, they must absolutely not be repotted after the leaves have unfolded.

    2. April is the best time for transplanting outdoor flowering trees. Whether deciduous or evergreen flowering trees, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfolded or the new shoots are not long, they can all be transplanted with a soil ball in April. For evergreen flowering trees such as camphor tree, southern magnolia, michelia (Michelia), and white orchid (Michelia alba), a portion of branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce transpiration from the canopy. For deciduous flowering trees, it is best to transplant them before their leaves unfold, such as white magnolia, horse chestnut, linden, crabapple, wintersweet, red-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, apricot, etc. Generally, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowering trees should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the transplanted tree. Only in this way, without destroying the soil ball, can the transplanted tree be free from worries.

III. Bonsai Styling

April is one of the best periods for bonsai styling. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice styling are those with strong adaptability whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as podocarpus (Podocarpus macrophyllus), cypress (Juniperus), June snow (Serissa), water willow (Geum), true cypress (Juniperus chinensis), weeping euonymus (Euonymus), crape myrtle, velvet cypress, flowering cypress, banyan, little-leaf boxwood, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), winter jasmine, winter daphne (Edgeworthia), ginkgo, black pine, Chinese juniper, etc. Other species suitable for styling in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, red nan (Syzygium), Chinese ash (Fraxinus), trident maple, oak (Quercus), galwood, golden bullet tree, weeping crabapple, Fujian tea (Carmona), papaya, elaeagnus, horned holly (Ilex cornuta), golden larch, and tiger thorn (Damnacanthus).

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, metal or non-metal wire should be used promptly for continuous wiring, guiding, and correction so that they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the care of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid to the following three aspects this month: First, timely bud removal. When the winter buds sprout and granular needle leaf primordia appear on them, 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length can be removed to promote shorter and denser new shoots. Second, remove female and male cones. When needle fascicle buds and male and female cones can be distinguished on new shoots, promptly remove all female cones growing at the tips of new shoots and male cones located at the base of new shoots, to reduce nutrient consumption during reproductive growth. Third, control watering. From the beginning of new shoot elongation, watering must be strictly controlled, watering only when dry, substituting spraying for watering, to ensure that the newly grown needles are short and clustered, keeping the branch pads flat and well-formed.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, azalea, winter jasmine, forsythia, daphne, kumquat, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), winter coral (Solanum), crab claw orchid (Schlumbergera), spring orchid (Cymbidium goeringii), large-flowered cymbidium, Chinese cymbidium, phaius orchid, etc., because flowering or fruiting has consumed a large amount of nutrients, when growth resumes after warm spring weather, nitrogen-based fertilizer should be applied as a top dressing, such as fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer solution, to promote their growth. For potted flower species about to bloom such as Chinese rose, redbud, pomegranate, Jian orchid, hibiscus, and white orchid, top dressing should likewise be given, and the type can be monopotassium phosphate, with the concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For ground-planted white magnolia, purple magnolia, michelia, plum blossom, wintersweet, crabapple, etc. after flowering, timely top dressing should also be applied to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping and Maintenance

Money tree (Pachira aquatica) can be braided in April. Dig up seedlings of the money tree that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7 into a braid. After braiding, press down with a heavy object to fix the shape, then choose a suitable pot for planting. The money tree has extremely strong vitality; even if it cannot be processed into a braid or planted in time, being spread out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival or subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjusting Plant Shape and Preventing Diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and faded stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management. For flower species prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Ornamental Fruit Potted Plants

For potted ornamental fruit flowering plants that bloom in April, such as papaya, ginkgo, firethorn, aucuba, and weeping crabapple, especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so that they can set fruit normally. Do not miss the good opportunity.

    5. Cutting Bed Management

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management. Except where intermittent misting equipment is available, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times daily, always keeping the cutting medium moist, to create the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual: Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Edition)

Weather characteristics of May: Temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north across China. After each rainfall, the temperature rises noticeably. There is much continuous spring rain. After the spring rain ends around Xiaoman, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for planting and caring for flowers. It plays an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. May flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flower and flowering tree species that can be sown immediately after collection in May mainly include: fairy primrose (Primula malacoides), Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), loquat, etc. May sowing and seedling raising should pay attention to the following three points: First, keep the sowing seedbed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry. Second, cover the sowing seedbed with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes in seedbed moisture that could cause seeds to "regress." Third, after seedlings emerge, remove the covering grass in several stages, and promptly set up a shade frame to avoid scorching the seedlings.

For osmanthus, mature blue-black fruits can be picked at the end of May. Mix with sand and rub off the flesh, rinse clean, then store in moist clean fine sand, where they can be kept until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and the radicle tip is exposed can they be sown in the ground. During storage, care should be taken to prevent rodents from stealing them, and the sand should be kept moist.

For loquat sowing, the soil covering should not be too deep, generally not exceeding 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttings

Flower species suitable for cutting propagation in May include: scarlet sage (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, sulfur cosmos, Chinese rose, azalea, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower, poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, coral tree (Erythrina), nasturtium, jasmine tobacco, jasmine, chloranthus, red mulberry, deutzia, hydrangea, kerria, pomegranate, hibiscus syriacus, butterfly bush (Buddleia), trumpet creeper, gardenia, epiphyllum, Rhaphidophora, orchid cactus (Epiphyllum), jade plant, gem flower (Graptopetalum), magnolia sieboldii, magnolia liliiflora, flowering quince, umbrella plant (Cyperus), lantana, red-back eupatorium, shrimp plant (Justicia), gold-in-green (Pachystachys), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), cordyline, pothos, schefflera, oleander, firethorn, mahonia, and Buddha belly bamboo with aerial roots, etc.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old purple magnolia seedlings or cutting seedlings for cleft grafting to propagate white orchid and michelia; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and weeping maple; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old rhododendron cutting seedlings for cleft grafting to propagate Western azalea; use wild rose as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior Chinese rose varieties; use yellow wormwood as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior chrysanthemum varieties; use 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock for softwood grafting of superior wintersweet varieties, or potted rootstocks can be used for cleft grafting. In addition, cactus or three-ribbed arrow (Hylocereus) can be used as rootstock for grafting to propagate crab claw orchid.

    4. Layering

Flowering tree species that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid, rubber tree, aglaia (Aglaia odorata), Western azalea, camellia, croton (Codiaeum), michelia, red maple, etc. Flowering trees that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese rose, gardenia, podocarpus, osmanthus, trumpet creeper, etc.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, the vast majority of species must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom on schedule by late September to early October, to create a joyful, enthusiastic, and colorful festive atmosphere. The main species include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur cosmos, China aster, Kochia scoparia, marigold, dragon's mouth flower, asparagus fern, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, etc.

    2. Transplanting

From late April to early May, when white magnolia has finished flowering and just before new buds sprout and leaves unfold, transplanting gives the highest survival rate. Some flowering trees that sprout relatively late and transplant easily can also be transplanted with a soil ball in early May, such as crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, redbud, pomegranate, silk tree (Albizia), etc.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, the water demand of potted ornamental plants will gradually increase. In addition to combining root watering with foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of irrigation and spraying water. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not directly use tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a water tank or small vat, then an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with the concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flower species suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, azalea, red azalea (Rhododendron simsii), gardenia, daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple, red-flowered camellia, etc. Foliage plants include: sago palm (Cycas), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Swiss cheese plant, broadleaf lady palm, rubber tree, ferns, podocarpus, croton, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, Syngonium, Calathea, bromeliads, Brazil wood (Dracaena fragrans), money tree, schefflera, etc. Ornamental fruit plants include: bitter orange, firethorn, kumquat, Buddha's hand, lemon, heavenly bamboo, winter coral, and coral berry (Ardisia crenata), etc.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. For white orchid that has just been moved out, special attention should be paid when pruning back, because its branch pith is loose and the cut surface easily loses water and dries out, extending downward. For this reason, the cut should be made 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye intended to be retained, and must not be too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose, after flowering, pruning should moderately lower the height by 10 to 20 cm, so that bud eyes located in the middle of the branch can develop flower buds.

(2) Bud removal. For bud removal on potted wintersweet plants, attention should also be paid to the location of bud removal. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud site; otherwise, the wound will dry out and shrivel, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Chinese rose potted in the current year, promptly remove the terminal bud to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade frame or under tree shade, such as: Swiss cheese plant, broadleaf lady palm, Calathea, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, pink lady leaf, fan palm (Livistona), Syngonium, orchids, azalea, bird of paradise (Strelitzia), camellia, sasanqua, etc. For light-loving flowering trees, full light must be given, such as wintersweet, sago palm, Chinese rose, firethorn, jasmine, white orchid, etc. Bonsai plants such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), trident maple, water willow, oak, June snow, black pine, and soft pine require full light. Podocarpus, tiger thorn, red nan, emerald cypress, and five-needle pine can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia, azalea, sasanqua, plum blossom, aglaia, jasmine, white orchid, gardenia, wintersweet, Chinese rose, daphne, clivia, orchids, crabapple, etc., after flowering, remove faded flowers and stems and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen with supplementary phosphorus, once every half month, to restore nutritional growth while laying a foundation for re-developing flower buds. For foliage-oriented species such as rubber tree, Swiss cheese plant, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, cast-iron plant, and ferns, apply fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For foliage plants with colored spots or patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant, colorful bromeliad, golden-heart Brazil wood, croton, caladium, white butterfly Syngonium, and pink lady leaf, a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied as a foliar feed, which can make their leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Chinese rose, rose (Rosa multiflora), and rugosa rose, attention should be paid to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot disease. For leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticide to kill them. For citrus butterfly larvae, leaf-eating pests that often appear on bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, Buddha's hand, lemon, and rue, spray pesticide early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be styled in May include: plum blossom, small-leaf gardenia, mountain gardenia, podocarpus, June snow, emerald cypress, water willow, galwood, ginkgo, etc. It is worth noting that when styling, one must be careful and cautious, trying not to damage the bark and structure of the branches; otherwise, it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Edition)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huai River basin enters the plum rain season. This year, plum rain began on June 12 and ended on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in the region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rain in the year, often with prolonged continuous rainfall. For some flowers that go dormant or semi-dormant in summer and for the vast majority of bonsai, care should be especially careful, to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light, which would disrupt styling or affect normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. June flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering tree species that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seeds, sago palm, loquat, wintersweet, etc. For wintersweet, when the urn-shaped fruit capsule on the mother tree turns from green to yellow, then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked. Promptly split open the fruit capsule, extract the seeds, first soak in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds have absorbed enough water and swollen, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white, at which point sow in furrows. The soil covering thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm. Cover with rice straw to retain moisture. After most seeds' cotyledons emerge from the soil, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 stages, and promptly set up a shade frame.

    2. Cuttings

Summer has high temperatures and high humidity, and the cambium in flowering tree branches is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation of flowering trees. There are two major categories of flowering trees suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category consists of species that are difficult to root or root slowly from hardwood cuttings, such as osmanthus, camellia, michelia, horned holly, holly, lilac, purple magnolia, flowering quince, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball viburnum, coral tree, Erythrina, Belgian azalea, Buddha belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood (Metasequoia), pond cypress (Taxodium), bald cypress (Taxodium distichum), etc. The other category consists of species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood, Chinese rose, firethorn, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine (Jasminum), June snow, pomegranate, hibiscus syriacus, Caragana, jasmine, chloranthus, dragon-leaf pearl, lantana, kerria, bougainvillea, Buddha's hand, lemon, podocarpus, heavenly bamboo, trumpet creeper, red-back eupatorium, honeysuckle, hibiscus, cordyline, Hypericum, (Hypericum), golden willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan, Brazil iron, Ardisia crenata, winter daphne, croton, deutzia, mock orange (Philadelphus), crape myrtle, Weigela florida, Weigela, snowball (Viburnum), peach coral (Aucuba), schefflera, mahonia, Japanese aralia, bridal wreath spiraea, hydrangea, poinsettia, etc. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-clawed golden dragon (Ipomoea), ivy family, nasturtium, cuphea, qianqiu tea, heliotrope, umbrella plant, geranium, coleus, begonia, pansy, globe amaranth, zinnia, French marigold, marigold, sulfur cosmos, etc.

Taking fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings of camellia and osmanthus as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the new shoots of osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified. The medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite. The cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip. The lower cut is dipped for 10 seconds in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetic acid solution, briefly air-dried, then inserted into the seedbed. The insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with a spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches over the seedbed, cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, set up a double-layer shade frame for shading, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally after one month, the cuttings will root in large numbers.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft superior wintersweet varieties; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to graft white orchid, michelia, etc. Bud grafting: use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to propagate superior Chinese rose varieties; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, and plum as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, dwarf flowering plum (Prunus japonica), plum blossom, and flowering almond (Prunus triloba), etc.; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and red maple varieties, etc. Branch grafting: use oil tea, red-flowered camellia, or single-petaled seedling camellia as rootstock for branch grafting of camellia and sasanqua; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among rhododendrons as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting of Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in June include: azalea, honeysuckle, hydrangea, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball viburnum, Weigela, oleander, osmanthus, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, aglaia, chloranthus, jasmine, white orchid, etc.

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: sword fern (Nephrolepis), calla lily (after flowering), Buddha belly bamboo, umbrella plant, purple-backed oyster plant (Tradescantia), bromeliads, Haworthia, cast-iron plant, spider plant, Acorus, golden-edge liriope, etc.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting/Establishment

    1. Seed Collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus, cornflower, snapdragon, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, hollyhock, mallow, primrose, calceolaria, amaryllis (sow immediately after collection), etc.

    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in June: After collecting wintersweet seeds, if nursery conditions do not permit, the extracted seeds can also be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, without affecting their germination rate. Peach and apricot should be sown immediately after collection, or their seeds can be sand-stored until they crack and germinate before sowing in the ground. Osmanthus seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed, be washed clean, and stored in moist sand to promote after-ripening of the seed embryo, then sown in a selected nursery plot when they germinate.

    2. Transplanting, Establishment, and Potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need to be transplanted, established, or potted, including: evening primrose, cleome, impatiens, New Guinea impatiens, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter coral, red tobacco, petunia, marigold, French marigold, zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, dragon's mouth flower, Kochia scoparia, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, red-green grass (Alternanthera), etc.

Entering summer, some large flowering trees are no longer transplanted, to avoid affecting their survival rate and post-transplant growth. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Japanese aralia, leatherleaf mahonia, mahonia, Hypericum, gardenia, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, and boxwood, under special circumstances, transplanting with a soil ball is also acceptable, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just don't let the tree know." But after transplanting, misting and shading management should be strengthened.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    Watering potted flowers in June should pay attention to the following aspects: First, watering time. It is best at 10 AM or 5 PM. Under normal circumstances, watering once a day is sufficient. Second, watering temperature. The irrigation water and the pot soil temperature should be kept basically consistent. If the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will cause stimulation to the root system and leaves of potted flowers and affect their growth. Third, combine watering and spraying. When there are several days without rain, in addition to watering the pots, also spray water on the leaf surfaces and around the potted flowers to increase the humidity of the local space. If there are continuous cloudy days, whether to water and spray should be decided according to the wetness or dryness of the pot soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red wood sorrel (Oxalis), geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia, etc. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level low, watering should be reduced, and keeping the pot soil moist is sufficient. Deeply dormant species such as: cyclamen, Lycoris, Ranunculus, Dutch peony, etc., under high temperatures show withered aboveground stems and leaves and dead underground nutrient fibrous roots, overwintering summer in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. Watering must be stopped for them, move them to a cool place, and keep the pot soil from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively inspect the potted flowers. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the pot soil dries, loosen the soil, to avoid causing root rot. Alternatively, before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, stand the potted flowers upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing species such as Swiss cheese plant, spider plant, Syngonium, Calathea, sword fern, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, sago palm, cast-iron plant, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, green queen, rubber tree, anthurium, red-back eupatorium, broadleaf lady palm, Norfolk Island pine, Brazil iron, podocarpus, money tree, wintersweet, Chinese rose, white orchid, aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, daphne, azalea, fragrant osmanthus, lantana, bleeding heart vine, shrimp plant, bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, firethorn, etc., apply fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For species currently flowering, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to meet their growth and flowering/fruiting needs.

For those flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for succulent flower species such as jade plant, crab claw orchid, Haworthia, Senecio, squirrel tail (Sedum), Lampranthus, Stapelia, sedum, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, fertilization must be stopped to avoid rot.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, podocarpus, Fujian tea, true cypress, emerald cypress, water willow, Chinese juniper, horned holly, holly, trident maple, snow willow, tamarisk, firethorn, etc., branches that affect the styling should be pruned or cut back early, which can keep the plant clearly layered and well-shaped, and can promote more short branches and new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal: For flowers such as aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, and Chinese rose, faded flowers and stems should be promptly removed, and branches that have flowered should be appropriately cut back to promote lower lateral branches or flower buds to bloom again. For flowering trees such as white orchid, bitter orange, azalea, camellia, wintersweet, plum blossom, and crabapple, in order to promote good plant shape and more flower buds, more flowers, and better flowers in the current or following year, excessively vigorous branches should be tip-pruned and buds removed, inhibiting the growth of terminal and lateral shoots and promoting lateral bud sprouting.

    4. Shading

    In June, for those flowering trees that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to prevent damage from direct sun exposure. Such as: hosta, purple hosta, asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchids, broadleaf lady palm, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, Syngonium, pink lady leaf, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, pothos, peperomia, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, red queen, fan palm, daphne, cast-iron plant, spider plant, etc. Light-loving flower species must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, June snow, sago palm, Chinese juniper, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, Japanese apricot, horned holly, holly, water willow, oak, black pine, (Pinus), white orchid, aglaia, Chinese rose, mahonia, grape, etc. Podocarpus, tiger thorn, heavenly bamboo, Buddha belly bamboo, (Bambusa), five-needle pine, and (Podocarpus) can be given appropriate shading.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper, emerald cypress, Chinese elm, papaya, firethorn, podocarpus, crabapple, etc. are susceptible to damage from trunk-boring longhorn beetles. Promptly use poison sticks to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose, rose (Rosa multiflora), and rugosa rose are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot disease during the plum rain season. Spray Bordeaux mixture early for prevention and control.

(3) White orchid, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. are susceptible to aphid damage. Select suitable pesticides early and spray to kill them.

(4) Orchid leaves are susceptible to anthracnose infection. Spray carbendazim and other fungicides early for prevention and control.

(5) Bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, Buddha's hand, etc. have tender leaves susceptible to feeding by citrus butterfly larvae. Spray contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Plant species that can be styled in June are mainly some woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and must be plants that were potted and acclimated in early spring or planted in the ground. They are: podocarpus, winter jasmine, elaeagnus, Huashan pine, emerald cypress, Chinese juniper, horned holly, holly, Chinese wolfberry, five-needle pine, weeping crabapple, Xifu crabapple, plum blossom, ornamental peach, trident maple, June snow, black pine, little-leaf boxwood, Chinese elm, tamarisk, water willow, true cypress, ginkgo, snow willow, firethorn, etc. June styling must be careful, with light wiring and slow bending. Do not be impatient or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5, Grain in Ear; June 21, Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Manual (July Edition)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the Yangtze-Huai region ends its plum rain weather. On July 16, the dog days begin, and on August 15, the dog days end. Most parts of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of China is above 24°C, and in the regions south of the Yangtze-Huai area it is 28°C. Only northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau have average July temperatures below 20°C. July flower care management mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria, fairy primrose, ornamental kale, campanula, etc. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light transmission.
    In July, mature fruits of plum, hairy peach, mountain peach, flowering almond, etc. can also be picked. After washing off the flesh, sow immediately in furrows, or store the cleaned stone fruits in moist sand until they crack, then sow. Wintersweet seeds can be sown immediately after collection, or seeds extracted from the fruit capsule can be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, without affecting their germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    Herbaceous flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Scutellaria, begonia, coleus, Pilea, scarlet sage, marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Dutch aster, purple loosestrife, umbrella plant, Boston ivy, coral flower, peperomia, Rhaphidophora, Polygonum, kalanchoe, pothos, etc.
    Woody flowering plant species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: red-back eupatorium, heavenly bamboo, poinsettia, crown of thorns (Euphorbia), Hypericum, (Hypericum), Weigela florida, hydrangea, Weigela, snowball (Viburnum), bridal wreath spiraea, daphne, gardenia, winter daphne, magnolia sieboldii, bougainvillea, aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, schefflera, mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, firethorn, cordyline, hibiscus, June snow, michelia, coral tree, rubber tree, Chinese snowball viburnum, Tianshan viburnum, boxwood, fig, purple magnolia, osmanthus, azalea, camellia, sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, golden willow, etc. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July, water cuttings can also be used to propagate some flowering trees. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, chloranthus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, etc. To use water cuttings for propagating flowering trees, first prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 cm to 2 cm thick, punch holes in it, and use it as fixing material for the cuttings. Second, keep the water for cuttings clean; a few pieces of charcoal can be added for anti-rot purposes.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old mountain peach or hairy peach seedlings can be used as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, flowering almond, purple-leaf plum, and beautiful plum, etc. Use cutting seedlings of wild rose, pink cluster rose, and "Ten Sisters" as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate variety Chinese roses, cut-flower Chinese roses, and rugosa roses, etc. Use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate white orchid, michelia, etc. Use potted 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate superior wintersweet varieties. Also, 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings can be used as rootstock, using the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm above the ground; after 7 to 10 days, whether it has survived can be determined. Use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among rhododendrons as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea. Use cherry seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior cherry blossom varieties. Use current-year seedling seedlings of Malus baccata, Hubei crabapple, weeping crabapple, or crabapple as rootstock, performing "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate superior crabapple varieties. Use Japanese maple seedlings as rootstock, bagging grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and other nursery stock.
    4. Layering
    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in July include: aglaia (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, trumpet creeper, Chinese snowball viburnum, oleander, Weigela, Caragana, osmanthus, gardenia, purple magnolia, jasmine, chloranthus, climbing Chinese rose, winter jasmine, etc.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta, purple hosta, Acorus, umbrella plant, cast-iron plant, purple-backed oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, liriope, Reineckea, rain lily (Zephyranthes), sword fern, iris, Tradescantia, etc. II. Seed Collection and Transplanting/Establishment
    1. Seed Collection
    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, coreopsis, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, Lampranthus, etc.
    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, plum, hairy peach, mountain peach, flowering almond, etc.
    2. Transplanting, Establishment, and Potting
    July is the main period for potting herbaceous flowers displayed during National Day. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted at this time can be seedling or cutting seedlings. After 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom exactly during National Day for holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, small dahlia, New Guinea impatiens, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, Kochia scoparia, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, etc.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, transplanting some flowering shrubs with a soil ball is also feasible, such as mahonia, Hypericum, golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, aucuba, and dragon juniper ball, etc. However, targeted pruning must be done, shade frames should be set up promptly, and the number of misting sessions should be increased. After they have basically survived, shift to normal management. Do not be careless.
III. Flower Management
    1. Watering
Flower species that enter a semi-dormant state at high temperatures, such as red-flowered oxalis (Oxalis), geraniums (Pelargonium), fuchsia (Fuchsia), clivia (Clivia miniata), calla lily (Zantedeschia), begonias (Begonia), stonecrop (Sedum), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), cacti (Cactaceae), Haworthia, Stapelia gigantea, string of pearls (Senecio rowleyanus), string of rubies (Othonna capensis), daphne (Daphne odora), Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), purslane tree (Portulacaria afra), aloe (Aloe), etc. Because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low. Watering should be reduced, the potting soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it can easily cause root rot and will also seriously affect their recovery and growth after autumn.
Flower species that enter a deep dormant state at high temperatures, such as cyclamen (Cyclamen), lycoris (Lycoris), ranunculus (Ranunculus asiaticus), and bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis), show withered aboveground stems and leaves in July, while the underground nutrient fibrous roots die off, surviving the summer in dormancy in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For flowers in deep dormancy, watering should be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the potting soil should merely be kept from becoming too dry.
For flower species with vigorous growth, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm (Cycas revoluta), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), monstera (Monstera deliciosa), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Michelia alba, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), maranta (Maranta), syngonium (Syngonium), red (green) gem (Fittonia), giant taro (Alocasia), green emperor (Dracaena), green queen (Dracaena), pink-striped dracaena (Dracaena), Brazilian iron (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), aucuba (Aucuba japonica), firethorn (Pyracantha), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon (Citrus limon), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), pomegranate (Punica granatum), redbud (Cercis chinensis), wisteria (Wisteria), and Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but the leaves should also be misted appropriately, combining watering and misting. Especially during consecutive overcast days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and misting should likewise be given, and no carelessness is allowed. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first mist the leaves, and after the leaves recover and stand up, then water the roots. Never pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it can very easily cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or cause the plant's nutrient fibrous roots to rot, and even cause the plant to die.
For potted plum bonsai, since July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves on both sides of the potted plant slightly curled inward to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second flush of new shoots produces 2 to 3 leaves, retain only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest, and flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axil of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon. Watering before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. is advisable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain, and promptly pour out any accumulated water found in the pots. After the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of the potted plants.
    2. Fertilization
    In July, there are four major categories of ornamental plants that should have their fertilization management strengthened. The first is species with especially long flowering periods, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Michelia alba, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, etc.; the second is species that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), etc.; the third is species whose flowers are viewed in winter and whose fruits are enjoyed, such as bitter orange, nandina (Nandina domestica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), azalea (Rhododendron), etc.; the fourth is foliage plants, such as palm grass (Rhapis), monstera, Philodendron, rubber tree, etc. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to applying the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the plant's comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for bud formation, flowering, and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea liquid should be the main choice. As for the fertilization method, thin liquid fertilizer applied by watering is preferable.
    In July, among herbaceous flowers that should have fertilization strengthened are: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink) (Salvia splendens), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), petunia (Petunia), Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), Cymbidium ensifolium, marigold (Tagetes erecta), four o'clock flower (Mirabilis jalapa), dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum majus), etc. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), pomegranate, poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), Michelia figo, osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), jasmine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming cestrum (Cestrum nocturnum), Chinese rose, crabapple (Malus), Brunfelsia, bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), azalea, Chloranthus spicatus, wintersweet, rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), cotton rose, etc. There are many kinds of foliage plants, such as bromeliads (Bromeliaceae), Brazilian iron, palm grass, Norfolk Island pine, syngonium, maranta, giant taro, red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, monstera, cordyline (Cordyline), etc.
   In July, for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for those succulent ornamental plants, such as stonecrop, Senecio, Mesembryanthemum, Stapelia, etc., fertilization must be stopped even more, to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be tip-pruned and have buds pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means directly removing the young terminal buds at the tips with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Chinese plum yew (Sageretia thea), Adinandra millettii, Euonymus bungeanus, boxwood (Buxus sinica), wintersweet, firethorn, Buddhist pine, tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), Elaeagnus pungens, water willow (Geum japonicum), Vitex negundo, Forsythia, hackberry (Celtis sinensis), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple (Acer buergerianum), crape myrtle, serissa (Serissa japonica), orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata), etc. Pruning means using shears to cut off part of a new shoot, prompting the lower lateral buds to sprout so as to form beautiful crown layers or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are inconvenient to pinch with the fingers, such as juniper (Juniperus rigida), oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), creeping juniper (Juniperus procumbens), oak (Quercus), holly osmanthus (Osmanthus heterophyllus), and shimpaku juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku'), etc.
For those potted flowers that continue blooming over a long period, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, etc., the spent flowers and withered stalks should be promptly removed, and the branches that have already bloomed should be cut back as necessary, which can prompt the lower lateral buds to sprout and bloom again. For azalea, camellia, sasanqua, crabapple, wintersweet, plum blossom, etc., overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be cut back, so as to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperatures of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun exposure. Such as ferns (Polypodiopsida), hosta (Hosta), purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), monstera, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Chloranthus spicatus, bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), orchids (Orchidaceae), palm grass, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron, pink-striped dracaena, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), pepperomia (Peperomia), cast-iron plant, wandering Jew (Tradescantia zebrina), Brazilian iron, Epipremnum pinnatum, bromeliads, maranta, Reineckea carnea, etc.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, firethorn, jasmine, serissa, sago palm, Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, peach (Prunus persica), plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, trident maple, black pine (Pinus thunbergii), water willow, oak, Pinus densiflora, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, etc. For Buddhist pine, podocarpus (Podocarpus nagi), Michelia figo, Damnacanthus indicus, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), bamboo palm (Rhapis), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), etc., it is necessary to give appropriate shading.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature is too high this month and the air is relatively dry, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand. This can reduce evaporation from the surface of the potting soil and also help protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, flower species should be chosen that have relatively highly leathery leaves, or leaves covered with a thicker cuticle, that tolerate a slightly dry environment and have relatively strong resistance, such as rubber tree, Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), mahonia (Mahonia), sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Hibiscus, Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), palm grass, Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), bromeliads, Philodendron, monstera, Schefflera, cast-iron plant, aucuba, etc., while species such as Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), coleus (Coleus), giant taro, syngonium, etc., are not suitable. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and misting, and keeping them away from air-conditioner vents to prevent direct airflow from hitting the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf margins to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are easily infected by anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant, and in severe cases can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the onset period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the root crowns or main trunks of plum blossom, peach, crabapple, redleaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), and dwarf flowering almond (Prunus triloba), it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of poisoned sticks, and soil application of carbofuran can be used for control, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunks. Note that when injecting pesticides, dimethoate, omethoate, etc. must not be used, to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the boxwood leafroller (Diaphania perspectalis) that harms Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Buxus harlandii, and Buxus sempervirens. When this pest outbreak is severe, it can eat all the leaves bare. Once discovered, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and the pest has developed resistance, a new type of pesticide can be substituted.
(4) In July, in some areas, citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae will continue to harm the leaves of new shoots of bitter orange, kumquat (Fortunella), Fortunella hindsii, finger citron (Citrus medica), lemon, Citrus wilsonii, and rue (Ruta graveolens). Stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) For the Chinese wax scale insect (Ericerus pela) that harms privet (Ligustrum lucidum), Chinese privet (Ligustrum sinense), Ligustrum, and ash (Fraxinus chinensis), late July to late August is its emergence period. The right time should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the wax scale from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale (Ceroplastes japonicus) is a major pest harming large-leaf boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), plane tree (Platanus), pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), camellia, redleaf plum, deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara), etc. In severe cases, the insects often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, so pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai styling
    In July, because the temperature is high, air humidity is low, and plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches are easily infected by pathogens after injury and do not heal or recover easily, so most stump species are no longer suitable for wiring and styling. Plants that can still be styled are some species with strong adaptability and tolerance for wiring, and they must be plants that were potted in spring for hardening off or grown in the ground. These are: winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), Buddhist pine, Japanese arborvitae (Thujopsis dolabrata), false cypress (Chamaecyparis), serissa, black pine, boxwood, water willow, etc.
    In July, plant styling should be done carefully and meticulously, wiring gently and slowly, applying force gradually, and one must not rush the operation or use too much force, otherwise it can very easily cause the branches and trunk of the plant to break and endanger its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Handbook: Autumn

Flower Planting Handbook (August Edition)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display
    August has high temperatures, strong light, and low humidity, and is the high-temperature dry-hot period second only to July in the year. The monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for display in courtyards are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among woody flowers are mainly: Norfolk Island pine, black pine, Pinus densiflora, five-needle pine, golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), Japanese umbrella pine (Sciadopitys verticillata), lacebark pine (Pinus bungeana), Japanese fir (Abies firma), armand pine (Pinus armandii), Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Chinese trident maple, cinnamon (Cinnamomum), Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus variegata, hibiscus, Lantana camara, coral tree (Erythrina), Dutch iron (Yucca), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Brazilian wood, palm grass, money tree, Schefflera, frangipani (Plumeria), osmanthus, oleander (Nerium oleander), Washington palm (Washingtonia), palm (Trachycarpus), bottle palm (Hyophorbe), mahonia, Japanese aralia, aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese rose, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: impatiens (Impatiens), large-flowered canna (Canna), shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet), scarlet sage, dahlia (Dahlia), China aster, Begonia, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, phlox (Phlox), ornamental pepper (Capsicum), California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), cockscomb, pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), lycoris, periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus), globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), four o'clock flower, zinnia, etc. In addition, there are cast-iron plant, Dieffenbachia, Philodendron, monstera, pothos, Aglaonema, etc.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), dwarf flowering almond, red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), summer sweetshrub (Calycanthus floridus), American sweetshrub (Calycanthus floridus var.), Buddhist pine, etc. They can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be sand-stored to promote germination and then sown in bags. After the ornamental pomegranate fruits mature and split, harvest them, rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, sand-store until germination, then sow. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath (Gypsophila), Phlox, petunia, snapdragon (Antirrhinum), coneflower (Echinacea), oxalis species, yarrow (Achillea millefolium), nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), pyrethrum (Tanacetum cinerariifolium), etc. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: calceolaria (Calceolaria), cyclamen, cineraria (Pericallis), wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens), fairy primrose (Primula malacoides), coleus, pot marigold, etc.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed substrate prepared from alkaline-leached rice husk ash and wet fine sand at a 2:1 ratio for moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings, the following flower and tree species can be propagated: firethorn, mahonia species, wintersweet, Michelia figo, bougainvillea, coral tree, Aglaia odorata, aucuba, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum (Viburnum opulus), hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, rubber tree, Pittosporum, Buddhist pine, Schefflera species, cordyline, hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), etc. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, etc. as the substrate, cuttings can be taken of boxwood species, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, French holly (Viburnum tinus), golden privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium 'Aureum'), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii), nandina, fig (Ficus carica), oleander, crape myrtle, serissa, spiraea (Spiraea), snowflake spiraea (Spiraea), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), etc. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, and sulfur cosmos can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flower and tree grafting can be carried out: in northern regions, use Chionanthus as the rootstock and *-graft osmanthus; use purple magnolia and Michelia alba as rootstocks and bud-graft to propagate Magnolia soulangeana; use potted purple magnolia as the rootstock and *-graft Michelia alba; use the current-year seedlings of wild peach as the rootstock and bud-graft plum blossom, ornamental peach (Prunus persica), longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf flowering almond, dwarf flowering almond, etc.; use cherry seedlings as the rootstock and bud-graft Japanese cherry; use wild rose (Rosa multiflora), pink cluster rose, etc. as rootstocks and bud-graft superior varieties of Chinese rose; use Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, Malus hupehensis, etc. seedlings as rootstocks and bud-graft Malus spectabilis and Malus halliana; use green maple as the rootstock and top-graft red maple and laceleaf maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as the rootstock and cleft-graft Ficus benjamina; use single-petaled camellia as the rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of camellia; use seedling wintersweet as the rootstock and cleft-graft or *-graft superior varieties of wintersweet. In addition, cleft grafting can be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), Banksian rose (Rosa banksiae), climbing Chinese rose, weigela (Weigela florida), hydrangea, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, oleander, gardenia, Scotch broom (Cytisus scoparius), winter jasmine, Forsythia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus spectabilis, osmanthus species, purple magnolia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia figo, hibiscus, Buddhist pine, coral tree (Viburnum odoratissimum), rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), etc.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, Alocasia, multi-headed green emperor, bromeliads, Solomon's seal (Polygonatum odoratum), cast-iron plant, umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), Adina pilulifera, red (green) gem, iris (Iris), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), purple triangular oxalis, Dieffenbachia, Aster novi-belgii, Acorus gramineus, Boston fern, Aglaonema, maranta species, syngonium, Haworthia, etc. In addition, lycoris, calla lily, freesia (Freesia), etc. can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of Courtyard Ground-planted Flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when transplanted with a large soil ball and supplemented by heavy pruning, management such as shading, watering, and misting should be strengthened after transplanting, which can achieve a relatively high survival rate, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-edged arborvitae, golden-hearted (golden-edged) boxwood, Hypericum, mahonia, Japanese aralia, Chinese rose, azalea, gardenia, Buddhist pine, Michelia figo, dragon juniper ball, Sabina chinensis ball, boxwood ball, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, aucuba, French holly, etc. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and planted out, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, dragon's mouth flower, etc., which can be expected to bloom in September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, for hedges in the courtyard such as boxwood, Chinese privet, privet, golden-leaf privet, French holly, and Photinia, pruning should continue. For ground-planted ball plants, such as Photinia, dragon juniper, Sabina chinensis, bayberry (Myrica rubra), firethorn, pittosporum, holly (Ilex cornuta), and evergreen (Ilex), pruning must also be done again. For ground-planted flowers and trees that continue blooming over a long period, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, hibiscus, bougainvillea, and Lantana camara, spent flowers should be promptly removed, and the branch tips should be cut back moderately. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, and marigold, tip pruning and pinching should be given.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and herbaceous flowers planted out, watering and misting management should be strengthened. For plants whose trunks are wrapped with straw rope, the straw rope should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Mist more and water cautiously, ensuring that the roots do not accumulate water.
4. Fertilization. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered ?, golden-edged (golden-hearted) boxwood, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, purple-leaf dwarf cherry, croton, red mulberry (Acalypha wilkesiana), aucuba, shell ginger, etc., in order to keep the leaf color bright for a long time, quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For species that continue blooming, such as Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', osmanthus, ornamental pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, Lantana camara, etc., and for species about to bloom, such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, autumn anemone, etc., an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly by watering. For camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. that are in flower bud differentiation, a small amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed through foliar fertilization.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on deodar cedar, privet, pittosporum, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, camellia, etc., promptly spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control. For chrysanthemum beetles and aphids occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystals at 1000 times dilution to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawfly and tobacco cutworm that gnaw on Chinese rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, dwarf flowering almond, red-flowered camellia, Buddhist pine, summer sweetshrub, etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony (Paeonia lactiflora), moss rose (Portulaca grandiflora), four o'clock flower, phlox, California poppy, snow-in-summer (Cerastium tomentosum), etc.
Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For those ornamental plant species that prefer acidic conditions, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as calceolaria, gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), iron cross begonia (Begonia masoniana), and hairy-leaf begonia, water droplets falling on the leaf surface are not easy to evaporate and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the leaf rosette of clivia also must not be sprinkled with water, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette can cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water must be given sparingly and misted more, and water should be poured into the leaf cups to meet their needs. This month, while watering and misting potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to become compacted. For flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, watering and misting should be controlled, just enough to keep the potting soil slightly moist, and a relatively cool and moist environment can be created for them by misting the small environment around the flower pots.
2. Fertilization. In August, for foliage plants, such as monstera, cast-iron plant, rubber tree, Philodendron, palm grass, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana), pygmy date palm (Phoenix roebelenii), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), fishtail palm (Caryota), Chinese fan palm, pothos, Brazilian wood, Dutch iron, money tree, Boston fern, Dracaena, Chinese trident maple (African jasmine), cinnamon (pingan wood), golden coin tree (dragon-phoenix tree), syngonium, green emperor, green queen, poinsettia, pink-striped dracaena, Schefflera, aucuba, parlour palm (Chamaedorea elegans), croton, Japanese aralia, etc., low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea liquid, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with long flowering periods, such as Chinese rose, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, crape myrtle, ornamental pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, osmanthus, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', bougainvillea, Lantana camara, etc., and for fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, Diospyros cathayensis, fruit pomegranate, nandina, papaya (Chaenomeles), etc., in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, drought chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, China aster, chrysanthemum, miniature sunflower, etc., thin liquid fertilizer can be applied once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flower and tree species in flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, osmanthus, azalea, etc., low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied to the leaves. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip onto the leaves, to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, promptly mist the leaves once after fertilization to wash off any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in dormant and semi-dormant states, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, purslane tree, Christmas cactus, stonecrop species, purple triangular oxalis, cacti, cactus balls, etc., all forms of topdressing must be stopped, otherwise it can very easily cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the summer heat is still strong, and shading management for courtyard potted flowers is still very important. For those ornamental plant species that prefer cool conditions, such as monstera, Philodendron, Alocasia, rubber tree, areca palm, giant taro, syngonium, maranta species, red (green) gem, palm grass, pothos, green emperor, green queen, orchid species, pink-striped dracaena, pepperomia, bromeliads, Adina pilulifera, mirror grass (Pilea peperomioides), ferns, Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Reineckea carnea, parlour palm, nerve plant (Fittonia), purple velvet plant (Gynura aurantiaca), Ludisia discolor, Aglaonema, Alocasia, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum), begonias, lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), cast-iron plant, asparagus fern, purple hosta, etc., shade sheds can continue to be given, pulling on shade netting at 9 a.m. and removing it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and then moved out from the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue to pinch or prune those stump bonsai that grow vigorously, tolerate pruning, and sprout easily, such as Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, water willow, boxwood, etc. For Chinese rose, ornamental pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, etc., cut back after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and disbudding?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterfly, rose sawfly, and peach red-necked longhorn beetle. Pay attention to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Pay attention to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers.
Potted Plants Suitable for Balcony Display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry-hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or that have been placed on the balcony for a long time can adapt. Such as black pine, Pinus densiflora, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, water willow, holly, evergreen, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, ornamental pomegranate, boxwood, oriental arborvitae stump, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, Fujian tea, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave (Agave), Lantana camara, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, trident maple, Buddhist pine, etc. In August, part of the flowers and trees on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda, Oncidium, South American cycad (Zamia), Alocasia, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, giant taro, red (green) gem, maranta, areca palm, queen palm (Syagrus), Alocasia, monstera, cast-iron plant, pothos, palm grass, money tree, clivia, fuchsia, nerve plant, Pachystachys lutea, Brazilian wood, Japanese aralia, etc.
Propagation of Balcony Flowers
In August, large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film can be used on the balcony for moisture-retaining cuttings of some ornamental plants. The cutting substrate can be rice husk ash mixed with fine sand at a 2:1 ratio, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera, aucuba, Begonia, gardenia, Pachystachys lutea, coral flower (Jatropha), Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Chloranthus spicatus, cordyline, jasmine, Dieffenbachia, Aglaonema, camellia, sasanqua, Michelia figo, etc. For the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Some ornamental plants can also be water-propagated indoors, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera, aucuba, fig, cordyline, frangipani, geranium, Dieffenbachia, fuchsia, etc.
Management of Balcony Flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and misting balcony potted flowers should be done carefully and cautiously. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and misting, which can be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the need of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, bricks can be used to build a simple sand bed, place 10 cm of wet sand inside, and then place some potted flowers that prefer moisture on the wet sand, such as: monstera, cast-iron plant, Alocasia, camellia, sasanqua, syngonium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, bromeliads, red (green) gem, Chloranthus spicatus, etc. Usually misting can replace watering, which is very beneficial for their safe summer. For Cymbidium, Cymbidium hookerianum, Oncidium, Cattleya, fuchsia, Dendrobium, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia, etc., they can be moved to air-conditioned rooms, using misting instead of watering to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, boxwood, trident maple, black pine, Pinus densiflora, wisteria, Fujian tea, water willow, agave, sago palm, etc., water 1 to 2 times a day and mist 1 to 2 times.
2. Fertilization. In August, fertilization should be stopped for balcony potted plants in dormant and semi-dormant states. For vigorously growing foliage plants, 0.3% urea liquid can be sprayed or applied by watering, and multi-element compound fertilizer granules can also be spread on the pot surface. For flowers and trees mainly for viewing flowers and fruits, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, kumquat, etc., quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should continue to be applied. For Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, holly, evergreen, Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, trident maple, water willow, boxwood, etc., after each pruning, a thin fertilizer can be applied once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full light, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai, such as five-needle pine, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, plum blossom, trident maple, etc., soft grass, moss, or wet cloth can be placed over the pot surface, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature, and also protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, shade netting can be used to block light. If there are not many and relatively precious potted flowers and trees on the balcony, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, serissa, Fraxinus chinensis, oak, small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, Chinese privet, boxwood, firethorn, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For spent flowers, withered stalks, dead branches, and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be promptly cut off.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and should be promptly sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution to kill them. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowers and trees, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, it is advisable to spray 90% trichlorfon crystals at 1000 times dilution to kill them

Flower Planting Handbook (September Edition)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display
In September, temperatures in most parts of our country slowly decline, with monthly average temperatures between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are relatively many types of potted ornamental plants suitable for display in courtyards. Among woody ornamental plant species are: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese umbrella pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Buddhist pine, podocarpus, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian cycad (Macrozamia), Chinese trident maple, cinnamon species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus variegata, hibiscus, cotton rose, Dutch iron, croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, Schefflera, palm grass, frangipani, bottle palm, mahonia, Japanese aralia, aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm tree, Chinese rose, fishtail palm, areca palm, queen palm, cordyline, pygmy date palm, fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata), red maple, South American cycad, spruce species, Schefflera, Garcinia, Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch (Grevillea robusta), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, orange jasmine, Dracaena, nandina, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: large-flowered canna, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, Begonia, marigold, ornamental pepper, lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, dragon's mouth flower, etc.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, Michelia species, magnolia species, manglietia species, buckeye species (Aesculus), summer sweetshrub, Canary Island date palm, etc. Among them, buckeye seeds can be sown in furrows, and when sowing the hilum should face downward, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm, covered with plastic film or straw to retain moisture. Summer sweetshrub seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing in the ground, and seedlings can emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for summer sweetshrub, which can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, the above seeds must all be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock (Alcea rosea), dianthus (Dianthus), Silene armeria, Silene pendula, pansy (Viola), snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy (Bellis perennis), corn poppy (Papaver rhoeas), pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena (Verbena), etc. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, trollflower (Trollius), cineraria, wax begonia, Gerbera, calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice husk ash as the cutting substrate, flower and tree species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: firethorn, mahonia, Michelia figo, bougainvillea, Weigela, aucuba, fuchsia, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, weigela, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Pachystachys, coral flower, rubber tree, Schefflera, cordyline, etc. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood species, purple magnolia, Hypericum, spiraea, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, snowflake spiraea, hydrangea, French holly, golden privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, serissa, gardenia, Japanese aralia, Chaenomeles speciosa, tree peony, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, cold chrysanthemum, etc.
3. Grafting. The following flower and tree grafting propagation can be carried out: use peony root sections as the rootstock and graft superior varieties of tree peony; use wild peach, apricot, etc. seedlings as rootstocks and bud-graft to propagate dwarf flowering almond, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, etc.; use green maple seedlings as the rootstock and bag-moisture-retention cleft-graft red maple, laceleaf maple, etc.; use Michelia alba seedlings as the rootstock and bud-graft superior varieties of Michelia alba and Magnolia soulangeana; use potted purple magnolia as the rootstock and *-graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedlings as the rootstock and bud-graft kumquat, etc.; use Chionanthus as the rootstock and *-graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as the rootstock and *-graft superior varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, weigela, hydrangea, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, Forsythia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, jasmine, Michelia figo, camellia, Chloranthus spicatus, French holly, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowflake spiraea, spiraea, etc.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, peony, tree peony, Dieffenbachia, purple triangular oxalis, Rudbeckia, snake plant (Sansevieria), Alocasia, multi-headed green emperor, Aglaonema, Boston fern, nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia, silver-striped lilyturf (Ophiopogon), cast-iron plant, big-leaf lilyturf (Liriope), etc. In addition, hyacinth (Hyacinthus), tulip (Tulipa), freesia, calla lily, lycoris, Spanish bluebell (Endymion), etc. can also have their small bulbs divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of Courtyard Ground-planted Flowers
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there is a special need, flower and trees are generally not transplanted in the courtyard. If for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out provided a good soil ball is retained. Species such as: oleander, dragon juniper, Michelia figo, Sabina chinensis, osmanthus, camellia, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, boxwood species, Hypericum, French holly, red-flowered loropetalum, aucuba, etc. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and watering, misting, and shading management must be strengthened to ensure that transplanting is completely successful. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, small dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, etc.
2. Pruning. Continue pruning courtyard hedges and ball-type ornamental plants that grow vigorously and have strong sprouting ability. This is also the last pruning of ball-type plants in the growing season this year in northern regions. Courtyard hedges and color-block tree species suitable for pruning mainly include: boxwood species, French holly, Photinia, privet, Chinese privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, golden-edged arborvitae, etc. Ball-type ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: dragon juniper, Sabina chinensis, boxwood, bayberry, holly, evergreen, Photinia, pittosporum, firethorn, Forsythia, etc. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be tip-pruned and pinched include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, Kochia, marigold, French marigold, etc. Pinching once every 10 days is advisable to prompt them to form a full plant shape and produce more inflorescences on lateral shoots, and pinching should stop after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that continue blooming over a long period, such as variety Chinese rose, floribunda rose, miniature rose, climbing Chinese rose, crape myrtle, ornamental pomegranate, Lantana camara, bougainvillea, etc., spent flowers and withered stalks should be promptly cut off, and the branches that have bloomed should be cut back moderately, which can effectively promote them to bloom again.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year, continuing to do a good job of watering and misting management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival results. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, mist the straw rope wrapped around the trunks to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunks; third, mist the tree crowns to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for successively newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to retain moisture.
4. Fertilization. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, red maple, red-flowered loropetalum, shell ginger, croton, aucuba, red mulberry, purple-leaf dwarf cherry, redleaf plum, red-leaf peach, etc., in order to keep the leaf color fresh and brilliant at all times, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be appropriately applied. For ground-planted flowers and trees that continue blooming or are viewed for flowers and fruits in autumn, such as crape myrtle, Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', calamondin (Citrus microcarpa), ornamental pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, Lantana camara, nandina, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, etc., as well as a large number of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, and golden osmanthus, etc. that are blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth harming flowers and trees such as crape myrtle, firethorn, and crabapple, spray 90% trichlorfon crystals at 800 times dilution for control; for the star longhorn beetle harming crape myrtle, papaya (Chaenomeles), and crabapple, insert poisoned sticks at the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, use 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution for control in the early stage of onset.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flower and trees of the Magnoliaceae family. Such as Oyama magnolia (Magnolia sieboldii), Michelia figo, purple magnolia, Michelia alba, Michelia, Michelia chapensis, Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), etc. In addition, there are buckeye species, crape myrtle, lilac (Syringa), crabapple species, redbud, Exochorda, yew (Taxus), and bright-leaf wintersweet, etc. Magnoliaceae as well as yew, buckeye, crabapple, etc. must, after seed treatment, be stored in wet sand until early spring of the following year, and sown in the ground after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia (Zinnia), impatiens, four o'clock flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower (Xerochrysum), China aster, etc. After collection, promptly thresh and dry-store until spring of the following year for sowing.
Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In September, the light is relatively strong, the temperature is relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers cannot be neglected. As for watering frequency, for general moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month water or mist once each in the morning and afternoon, and in the second half of the month change to watering once, with appropriate misting of the leaves. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves. Water before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidic environments, a small amount of 0.1% light-green ferrous sulfate powder can be added to the irrigation water. For flower species that are dormant or semi-dormant in summer and resume growth after autumn, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or misting). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil of the plants once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is the period when most flowers are growing vigorously. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as temperatures gradually cool, so great attention should be paid to fertilizer management this month. For foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica (rubber tree), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Dracaena fragrans (corn plant), Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa (lady palm), Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (ZZ plant), Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Caryota mitis (fishtail palm), Epipremnum aureum (pothos), red (green) gem, Aglaonema 'Green King', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Calathea/Maranta species, Syngonium podophyllum, Ficus lyrata (fiddle-leaf fig), etc., still mainly apply low-concentration dilute fertilizer solution, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flowering trees and shrubs with an exceptionally long blooming period or those whose peak bloom is in autumn, such as Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Lantana camara 'Tricolor', Lantana camara (five-color lantana), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixiang', Osmanthus fragrans, etc.; for fruit-ornamental plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara (bitter orange), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), Diospyros cathayensis (golden bullet persimmon), Callicarpa bodinieri (beautyberry), Punica granatum (ornamental pomegranate), etc.; and for colorful-foliage plants such as Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata' (gold-dusted Japanese aucuba), Bromeliaceae species, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata' (variegated weeping fig), Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana' (golden-edged corn plant), Cordyline fruticosa (ti plant), Coleus scutellarioides (coleus), etc., a fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied as a supplementary dressing. For Fuchsia hybrida (lady's eardrops), Pelargonium hortorum (geranium), Zantedeschia aethiopica (calla lily), Cyclamen persicum, Begonia semperflorens (wax begonia), Daphne odora, Schlumbergera truncata (Christmas cactus), Sedum species, Portulacaria afra (elephant bush), Oxalis triangularis (purple shamrock), Clivia miniata (kaffir lily), Epiphyllum hybridum (orchid cactus), etc., which are resuming growth, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be resumed as a soil drench; for flowers that have completed flower-bud differentiation and entered the flower-bud swelling stage, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Rhododendron species, etc., a low-concentration fertilizer with balanced nutrients can be applied as a supplementary dressing; for potted herbaceous flowers, such as Salvia splendens (scarlet sage), Tagetes erecta (marigold), Chrysanthemum morifolium, Callistephus chinensis (aster), Dahlia pinnata, dwarf sunflower, etc., a light fertilizer dressing can be applied once every 10 days to meet their needs for bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, temperatures are still high and sunlight still intense, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Nephrolepis cordifolia (sword fern), Nephrolepis exaltata 'Bostoniensis' (Boston fern), Asplenium nidus (bird's-nest fern), Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea/Maranta species, Epipremnum aureum, Rhapis excelsa, Aglaonema 'Green King', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Cymbidium species, Dieffenbachia seguine (dumb cane), Syagrus romanzoffiana (queen palm), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Begonia species, Epipremnum pinnatum (dragon-tail plant), Anthurium 'Little Angel', red (green) gem, Anthurium crystallinum (crystal anthurium), Alocasia amazonica (African mask plant), Fittonia verschaffeltii (nerve plant), Odontonema strictum (firespike), Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern), Schefflera arboricola (umbrella plant), Pteris multifida 'Variegata' (variegated spider fern), Peperomia argyreia (watermelon peperomia), Dieffenbachia maculata (spotted dumb cane), Aglaonema 'Green Giant', Anthurium andraeanum (flamingo flower), Platycerium bifurcatum (staghorn fern), Pilea peperomioides (Chinese money plant), Adina pilulifera, Aglaonema 'King', Dracaena sanderiana (lucky bamboo), etc., provide 5 to 6 hours of light per day through shading; for light-loving species, such as Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), Ginkgo biloba, Adina rubella, Pinus thunbergii (Japanese black pine), Platycladus orientalis (Chinese arborvitae, as stump), Juniperus chinensis (Chinese juniper), Lagerstroemia indica, Araucaria heterophylla, Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Pyracantha fortuneana, Rosa chinensis, Xylosma congestum, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', etc., full sunlight can be given; for semi-shade-loving species, such as Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine), Damnacanthus indicus, Syzygium buxifolium, Loropetalum chinense, Epiphyllum oxypetalum (night-blooming cereus), Nandina domestica, Crassula ovata (jade plant), Rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (fingered citron), Citrus aurantium var. amara, Fortunella margarita (kumquat), etc., appropriate shading can be given around noon. Newly transplanted autumn herbaceous flowers in pots should also be appropriately shaded to prevent wilting and to ensure their recovery and growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue the work of bud removal and disbudding; for Rosa chinensis, Punica granatum (ornamental pomegranate), Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Lantana camara, Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Justicia carnea (Brazilian plume flower), etc., pruning should be carried out after each flowering; for those stump bonsai species that tolerate pruning, sprout readily and grow vigorously, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea (Chinese sweet plum), Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Syzygium buxifolium, Ligustrum sinense (Chinese privet), Adina rubella, Buxus sinica (Chinese boxwood), Platycladus orientalis (as stump), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', Tamarix chinensis (Chinese tamarisk), etc., continue pruning or bud pinching. In addition, Pachira aquatica seedlings can be braided into a "braid" and potted up.
5. Pest and disease control. For Aromia bungii (peach red-necked longhorn beetle) appearing on potted Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis (Chinese flowering crabapple), Prunus persica 'Shoutao' ( longevity peach), Prunus persica 'Bitao' (ornamental peach), etc., poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, or carbofuran granules can be buried for control. For Ceroplastes japonicus (Japanese wax scale), Icerya purchasi (cottony cushion scale), Diaspididae (armored scales), Eriococcus species (felt scales), etc., appearing on potted flowering trees, apply 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, the balcony still has intense light and dry air, and only some potted flowers that have long been placed on the balcony or potted flowering trees with strong resistance can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song', Pinus densiflora (Japanese red pine), Pinus parviflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Acer buergerianum, Ilex cornuta (Chinese holly), Ilex chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, ornamental pomegranate, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (as stump), Juniperus chinensis, Carmona retusa, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', Ficus microcarpa, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Rosa chinensis, Agave americana, Ginkgo biloba, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Celtis sinensis (Chinese hackberry), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Hemiptelea davidii, Serissa japonica (snowrose), Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Oncidium (dancing-lady orchid), Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda, Lycoris radiata (spider lily), Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Clivia miniata, Fuchsia hybrida, Fittonia verschaffeltii, etc.; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens (areca palm), Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia (royal palm), Ficus species, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera arboricola, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers: In September, on the balcony, large-diameter flower pots can continue to be used as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of rice-husk ash and moist sand at 1/2 each, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and some ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Cordyline fruticosa, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera arboricola, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixiang', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Excoecaria cochinchinensis (Japanese laurel), Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Michelia figo, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc. Also indoors, water cuttings can be done for Schefflera arboricola, Rosa chinensis, Gardenia jasminoides, Ficus carica (fig), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), etc.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer moisture, such as Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Anthurium 'Little Angel', Chloranthus spicatus, Bromeliaceae species, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats set over a balcony water basin or water vat, or placed in a simple self-built sand bed, and normally misted instead of watered. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, more misting and less watering should also be done to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, water should be sprayed at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even the relatively drought-tolerant Pinus parviflora bonsai will dehydrate and die if not watered or misted for 5 to 7 days. For potted ornamental plants with strong resistance placed on the balcony, watering once a day and misting 1 to 2 times a day can continue, or the immersion method can be used to prevent the phenomenon of wet top and dry bottom in the potting soil. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, care should be taken that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and a small amount of light-green ferrous sulfate should be added to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, low-concentration liquid fertilizer should also be appropriately applied as a soil drench; for vigorously growing potted stumps, a dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied once after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowering trees mainly grown for flowers and fruit, such as Michelia alba, Rosa chinensis, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, etc., quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should continue to be applied as a supplementary dressing; for potted flowers that have completed flower-bud differentiation and whose flower buds are enlarging, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Osmanthus fragrans, Chrysanthemum morifolium, etc., an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a balanced nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer can be applied according to the different species. The types of fertilizer applied to flowers on the balcony should not carry an off-odor, especially not a foul smell, and care should be taken not to splash down to the floor below when applying, so operate carefully.
3. Shading. For stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, prevent soil compaction and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when there are not many potted flowers, they can be moved indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Platycladus orientalis (as stump), Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Ligustrum sinense, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', etc., pinching or pruning is still required. For other potted flowering trees, dead branches, yellow leaves, faded flowers and withered stems should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperatures and dry air, and potted flowering trees are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be controlled by spraying 25% Pyridaben wettable powder at 1500 times dilution; for Semanotus bifasciatus (double-striped juniper longhorn beetle) appearing on Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca' (dragon juniper), Juniperus chinensis and Juniperus formosana bonsai, and Aromia bungii appearing on Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis, Chaenomeles sinensis, Prunus persica 'Shoutao', etc., poison sticks can continue to be inserted or carbofuran buried for control; for various scale insects harming Camellia japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lagerstroemia indica, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., when the number is small they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.

Flower Planting Handbook: Winter

Flower Planting Handbook (October)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month there are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which woody ornamental plant species include: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus parviflora, Sciadopitys verticillata (Japanese umbrella pine), Pinus bungeana (lacebark pine), Abies firma (Japanese fir), Picea species (spruce), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi (broadleaf podocarpus), Cycas revoluta (sago palm), Phoenix canariensis (Canary Island date palm), Yucca elephantipes (spineless yucca), Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense (Lan Yu cinnamon), Osmanthus fragrans, Hibiscus mutabilis (cotton rose), Ficus elastica, Schefflera arboricola, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese hibiscus), Pseudolarix amabilis (golden larch), Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Rhapis excelsa, Beaucarnea recurvata (ponytail palm), Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ficus microcarpa var. crassifolia, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii (pygmy date palm), Ficus lyrata, Adenium obesum (desert rose), Dioon edule (Chestnut dioon), Garcinia subelliptica, Bambusa ventricosa (Buddha belly bamboo), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), Grevillea robusta (silk oak), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Ficus species, Murraya paniculata (orange jasmine), Nandina domestica, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Salvia splendens, Canna generalis, Dahlia pinnata, Callistephus chinensis, Chrysanthemum morifolium, small chrysanthemum, Begonia maculata (polka dot begonia), Antirrhinum majus (snapdragon), Tagetes patula (French marigold), Tagetes erecta, Capsicum annuum (ornamental pepper), Celosia cristata (cockscomb), Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), Catharanthus roseus (Madagascar periwinkle), Gomphrena globosa (globe amaranth), Petunia hybrida, Impatiens hawkeri (New Guinea impatiens), etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China and other places, when temperatures drop below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flower species cultivated in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony), Camellia chekiangoleosa (red-flowered oil tea), Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, Aesculus species (buckeye), Calycanthus chinensis (Chinese sweetshrub), Ardisia crenata, Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Ilex kudingcha (kuding tea), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Viburnum awabuki (French viburnum), Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Phoenix roebelenii, Taxus chinensis (Chinese yew), Livistona chinensis (Chinese fan palm), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Ligustrum sinense, Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Weigela florida, Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Taxodium ascendens (pond cypress), etc. Among them, when sowing Aesculus species, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing Calycanthus chinensis, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except that the seeds of Calycanthus chinensis and Weigela florida can be dry-stored until sowing the following spring, the seeds of the other species can all be cleaned, stored in moist sand to promote germination until the following spring when the seeds crack and show white, and then sown. Note that before storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean; the moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released; the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: Alcea rosea (hollyhock), Malva sylvestris (common mallow), Papaver rhoeas (corn poppy), Calendula officinalis, Antirrhinum majus, Dianthus species, Viola tricolor (pansy), Parthenocissus tricuspidata (Boston ivy), Belamcanda chinensis (blackberry lily), Silene pendula, Silene armeria, Eschscholzia californica (California poppy), Bellis perennis (daisy), Rudbeckia hirta (black-eyed Susan), Iris species, Verbena hybrida, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as Tropaeolum majus (nasturtium), Sinningia speciosa (gloxinia), Petunia hybrida, Pericallis hybrida (cineraria), Primula obconica (German primrose), Gerbera jamesonii (Gerbera daisy), Calceolaria herbeohybrida (pocketbook plant) can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Schefflera arboricola, Cestrum nocturnum (night-blooming jessamine), Lantana camara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Mahonia species, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Clerodendrum thomsoniae (bleeding heart vine), Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia figo, Aucuba japonica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea' (red-leaf barberry), Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum' (golden-leaf privet), Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Gardenia jasminoides, Weigela florida, Spiraea cantonensis (reeves spiraea), Spiraea japonica (red-flowered spiraea), Spiraea thunbergii (bridal wreath spiraea), Hypericum monogynum (Chinese St. John's wort), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Rosa chinensis, Viburnum macrocephalum (Chinese snowball), Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), Nerium oleander, Ficus carica, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice-husk ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for cuttings of some southern flowering trees, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia maculata, Tradescantia zebrina (inch plant), Epipremnum aureum 'Golden', Pilea cadierei (aluminum plant), Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Odontonema strictum, Chrysanthemum morifolium (winter chrysanthemum), etc. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!)

    3. Grafting. Using 1- to 2-year-old Pinus thunbergii seedlings as rootstock, graft Pinus parviflora (including Pinus parviflora 'Osaka') and Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song' with bagging for moisture retention; using Paeonia lactiflora (herbaceous peony) roots as rootstock, graft superior varieties of Paeonia suffruticosa; using 1-year-old Acer palmatum (Japanese maple) seedlings as rootstock, graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' and Acer palmatum 'Dissectum' (laceleaf maple) with bagging for moisture retention; using 1-year-old Magnolia denudata (white magnolia) seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana (saucer magnolia), Magnolia liliflora (red magnolia), etc.; using Hylocereus undatus (three-ribbed cactus) as rootstock, graft various Echinopsis species (ball cacti); using 1-year-old Citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft Fortunella margarita.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be propagated by ground layering include: Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea), Weigela florida (weigela), Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'August', Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Magnolia liliflora, Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum monogynum, Viburnum awabuki, Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Michelia figo, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, etc.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: Nandina domestica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia fortunei, Paeonia suffruticosa, Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantonensis, Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora' (double-flowered Japanese rose), Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea species, Cycas revoluta, etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Paeonia lactiflora, Hosta plantaginea (fragrant plantain lily), Cymbidium goeringii, Hosta ventricosa (blue plantain lily), Strelitzia reginae (bird of paradise), Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Ranunculus asiaticus (Persian buttercup), Rudbeckia laciniata (golden glow), Iris species, Belamcanda chinensis, Convallaria majalis (lily of the valley), Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Oxalis triangularis, Aglaonema 'Green King' multi-head, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Aspidistra elatior, etc. Flower species that can be propagated by dividing bulbs include: Zantedeschia aethiopica, Hippeastrum (amaryllis), Freesia refracta, Lycoris radiata, Tulipa gesneriana (tulip), Scilla peruviana (Peruvian squill), etc.

Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after Frost's Descent arrives and leaves fall, such as Hibiscus syriacus, Cercis chinensis (redbud), Amygdalus triloba (flowering almond), Punica granatum, Syringa oblata (lilac), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Magnolia liliflora, Prunus persica 'Bitao', Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Rosa hybrida (floribunda rose), Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, Nandina domestica, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis' (Sichuan juniper), Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea Nana', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Gardenia jasminoides, Euonymus japonicus (evergreen spindle tree), Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, etc., when transplanting, first, pruning back should be done before transplanting; second, a soil ball should be kept; third, watering and misting management should be strengthened after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted out include: Dianthus chinensis (Chinese pink), Bellis perennis, Alcea rosea, Brassica oleracea var. acephala (ornamental kale), Viola tricolor, Calendula officinalis, Verbena hybrida, Phlox drummondii (annual phlox), Antirrhinum majus, Zephyranthes candida (rain lily), Ophiopogon japonicus (dwarf lilyturf), Reineckea carnea (pink reineckea), etc. Bulbous flower species that can be planted in the ground include: Narcissus tazetta var. chinensis (Chinese narcissus), Narcissus poeticus (poet's narcissus), Tulipa gesneriana, Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth), etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum (red-leaf Chinese fringe flower), Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea Nana', Euonymus japonicus 'Aureus' (golden euonymus), Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Viburnum awabuki, Ligustrum lucidum, Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum sinense, etc. Ball-shaped plants requiring pruning include: Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Buxus species, Myrica rubra (Chinese bayberry), Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Photinia species, Pittosporum tobira (Japanese pittosporum), Pyracantha fortuneana, etc. For ground-planted flowering trees in the courtyard that bloom continuously, such as Rosa chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Lantana camara, Bougainvillea spectabilis, etc., continue to cut off faded flowers and withered stems, and moderately prune back the branches that have flowered. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Gomphrena globosa, etc., promptly cut off the open inflorescences to encourage the lateral shoots to continue producing buds and blooming, thereby extending the ornamental period.

    3. Watering. For courtyard flowering trees newly planted this year, continue to do watering and misting well: first, keep the root soil moist, but there must be no waterlogging; second, continue to mist the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do well the misting and moisture-retention work.

    4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, it is appropriate to apply a quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium; for Osmanthus species that have already flowered, open a ring-shaped trench and bury base fertilizer; for Rosa chinensis, Malus spectabilis, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus mutabilis, Camellia japonica, Michelia figo, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, etc. that have been pruned, an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer can be buried; for Nandina domestica and Pyracantha fortuneana in the fruit-viewing state, as well as Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Diospyros cathayensis, etc. in the south, a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be appropriately applied as a soil drench, which can effectively prolong the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted Prunus mume, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus serrulata (cherry blossom), Malus spectabilis, etc., continue to use poison sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewashing of the trunks can be carried out at the end of the month, or lime-sulfur mixture can be applied directly to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species from which seeds can be collected include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus species, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia denudata, Manglietia species, Magnolia grandiflora (southern magnolia), Magnolia yunnanensis, Magnolia amoena (Huangshan magnolia), Michelia champaca, Michelia foveolata (golden-leaf michelia), Michelia maudiae (Maude michelia), Manglietia insignis (red-flowered manglietia), Michelia platypetala, Taxodium ascendens, Rhapis excelsa, Ardisia crenata, Phoenix roebelenii, Livistona chinensis, Ilex kudingcha, Viburnum awabuki, Cinnamomum camphora, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Viburnum macrocephalum, Malus halliana (hall crabapple), Chaenomeles sinensis, Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Taxus chinensis, Camellia oleifera (oil tea), etc. All these seeds must be stored in moist sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored include: Lagerstroemia indica, Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum, Pseudolarix amabilis, Metasequoia glyptostroboides (dawn redwood), Cryptomeria japonica (Japanese cedar), Sapium sebiferum (Chinese tallow tree), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree), Hibiscus mutabilis, Choerospondias axillaris, Cercis chinensis, Camptotheca acuminata, Bischofia polycarpa, Acer truncatum (Shantung maple), etc. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: Salvia splendens, Celosia cristata, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, Callistephus chinensis (small-flowered), Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Callistephus chinensis, Impatiens balsamina (garden balsam), Mirabilis jalapa (four o'clock flower), Kochia scoparia (burning bush), Helichrysum bracteatum (strawflower), Cosmos bipinnatus, Euphorbia marginata (snow-on-the-mountain), Euphorbia heterophylla (painted euphorbia), Mimosa pudica (sensitive plant), Codariocalyx motorius (telegraph plant), etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for Canna generalis, Dahlia pinnata, etc., when their aboveground parts are close to withering, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, maintaining a room temperature not lower than 5°C, and cut and divide them for planting again the following spring.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huaihe River, temperatures are still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as Ficus elastica, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, Epipremnum aureum, Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Aglaonema 'Green Giant', red gem, etc., on sunny days it is suitable to water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species, such as Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Clivia miniata, Portulacaria afra, Daphne odora, Pelargonium hortorum, Fuchsia hybrida, etc., the amount of watering needs to be increased. For Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, etc. that bloom in winter and early spring, watering should be controlled and misting increased to facilitate the enlargement of their flower buds. In northern regions, for relatively cold-sensitive flower species, watering should be reduced, which can accelerate the lignification of their new shoots and help them overwinter safely. The best watering time is 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn coolness, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer as a supplementary dressing; for Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pericallis hybrida, Primula species, Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Cymbidium sinense (Chinese cymbidium), Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Narcissus poeticus, etc. that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-ornamental potted plants, such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus limon (lemon), Fortunella margarita, Nandina domestica, Solanum pseudocapsicum (Jerusalem cherry), Ardisia crenata, Diospyros cathayensis, etc., a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied in early to mid-October.

    3. Shading. For some extremely shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia seguine, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea/Maranta species, Syngonium podophyllum, Aglaonema 'Green Gem', Nephrolepis exaltata 'Bostoniensis', Peperomia species, etc., shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, their dead branches and leaves, pest-damaged branches, weak thin branches, etc. should first be cut off; for leggy branches, strong pruning back should be carried out; for ties that have been in place for 1 to 2 years, they can be untied, or untied and then re-tied, to prevent long-term binding at a fixed position from injuring the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate temperatures below 10°C can be moved into greenhouses in time; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or stump bonsai, they can be buried at the end of the month in wind-protected, sunny soil to prevent the potting soil from freezing. Areas in the Yangtze River basin should accurately grasp weather change information and avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowering trees, collect them uniformly and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control pests such as aphids, chrysanthemum longhorn beetles, leaf-miner larvae, and inchworms.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    On the balcony in early to mid-October, there is still intense light and dry air, and only those potted flowering trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song', Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', Carmona retusa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Buxus sinica, Punica granatum, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Ficus microcarpa var. crassifolia, Ginkgo biloba, Rosa chinensis, Jasminum sambac, Aglaia odorata, Cycas revoluta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, Tamarix chinensis, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc. Some cold-sensitive southern flowering tree species can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony when temperatures drop to 10°C. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary indoor spaces at the beginning of the month, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis (moth orchid), Oncidium, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon and placed on the balcony at other times, such as Rhapis excelsa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Ficus species, Schefflera arboricola, etc. In northern regions, when temperatures drop to 10°C, the vast majority of flowering trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers: In early October, on the balcony, wide-mouthed large flower pots can continue to be used as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of rice-husk ash and moist sand at 1/2 each, or vermiculite alone can be used as the cutting substrate, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and a small number of ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Schefflera arboricola, Ficus elastica, Aucuba japonica, Michelia figo, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Aglaonema modestum, Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Epipremnum aureum 'Golden', Pelargonium hortorum, etc.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as Cycas revoluta, Ficus microcarpa, Ficus elastica, Schefflera arboricola, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, etc., water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for species that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron hybridum, etc., watering should not be too much, and at the same time mist the branches and leaves, which can effectively promote the enlargement of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Anthurium 'Little Angel', Aspidistra elatior, Cordyline fruticosa, Asplenium nidus, Anthurium andraeanum, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea/Maranta species, Epipremnum aureum, etc., misting should be the main method and watering supplementary, to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, as well as Cymbidium hybridum, Bromeliaceae species, Cymbidium sinense, etc., a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea can be applied as a soil drench; for Citrus aurantium var. amara, Fortunella margarita, Fortunella hindsii (Hong Kong kumquat), Citrus limon, Nandina domestica, Diospyros cathayensis, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc. mainly grown for fruit display, a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can continue to be applied as a soil drench; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, etc., 1 to 2 light phosphorus and potassium fertilizer dressings can be applied in early October to help them overwinter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from compacting, continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc., especially for shallow-pot stump bonsai, more attention should be paid. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on clear days they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon. Shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out on stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Platycladus orientalis (as stump), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Ligustrum species, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', etc. For metal or non-metal wires that have been bound for more than a year, they can first be untied; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, a new binding position can be changed for further training and fixing, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plant. For ordinary potted flowering trees, such as Rosa chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, the dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the trunk, which can both protect the xylem of the trunk and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.
Flower Planting Handbook (November)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Start of Winter, the beginning of winter in China, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow, when snow begins in the Yellow River basin and areas to the north, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should attach importance to two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing trunks and removing pests, plowing the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively doing cold protection and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic tunnels. The main contents of this month's flower care management are as follows.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, Begonia tuberhybrida (tuberous begonia), Cyclamen persicum, Gerbera jamesonii, Clivia miniata, Asparagus setaceus, Hosta plantaginea, etc.

    Flowering tree species that can be sown immediately after collection in November include: Spiraea cantonensis, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Cinnamomum camphora, Juniperus virginiana (pencil cedar), Nageia nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sapindus mukorossi, Ardisia crenata, Trachycarpus fortunei, Viburnum awabuki, Photinia serrulata, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be done, but plastic film mulching must be added. Flowering tree species for heat preservation and cold protection mainly include: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume (referring to varieties such as 'Lüe' and 'Gongfen'), Rosa chinensis (referring to easy-to-root varieties such as floribunda rose and 'Elizabeth'), Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Ulmus parvifolia, Serissa japonica, etc. Some of these root cuttings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flowering trees that can be densely planted and propagated by cuttings in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in November include: Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Euonymus japonicus, Euonymus japonicus 'Albomarginatus' (silver-edged euonymus), Pilea cadierei, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum beanii, Mahonia species, Serissa japonica 'Aureo-marginata' (golden-edged snowrose), etc. If managed properly, complete root systems can grow by the following spring, and they can be used for ground planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening forms. In winter, in greenhouses, cuttings can also be done for Begonia maculata, Begonia species, Begonia nelumbiifolia (lotus-leaf begonia), Pelargonium hortorum, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia hybrida, Crassula ovata, Portulacaria afra, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, etc., and after spring begins they can be used for potting and cultivation.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of Hibiscus mutabilis, Campsis grandiflora, Vitis vinifera (grape), etc. can also be cut and stored, to be used for cuttings the following spring, which can significantly speed up their rooting and increase the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Using Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' and Acer palmatum 'Dissectum' indoors with bagging; using apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft Prunus mume (the graft union is buried in soil to overwinter); using thick vigorous branches of Rosa chinensis (variety 'Elizabeth') as rootstock-scion, and branches of superior Rosa chinensis varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then insert them for cuttings, so that the union heals and the lower cut roots at the same time, which can speed up the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of superior rose varieties.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be propagated by ground layering in November mainly include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Gardenia jasminoides, Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans' (dwarf gardenia), Punica granatum, Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Weigela florida, Osmanthus fragrans, Hydrangea macrophylla, Magnolia liliflora, Juniperus squamata (flaky juniper), Michelia figo, Spiraea cantonensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantonensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Wikstroemia species, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum beanii, Mahonia species, Buddleja lindleyana (Lindley's butterfly bush), Paeonia suffruticosa, Caragana sinica (Chinese pea shrub), Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum officinale (common jasmine), Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf' (fernleaf hedge bamboo), Bambusa multiplex 'Alphonse Karr' (Alphonse Karr bamboo), etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of Dahlia pinnata, Canna generalis, Canna generalis, etc. can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the following spring, and then cut, divided and planted out.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Bletilla striata (hardy orchid), Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Belamcanda chinensis, Iris species, ornamental Bromeliaceae, Liriope platyphylla (big blue lilyturf), Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, Rohdea japonica (sacred lily), Aspidistra elatior, Kalanchoe daigremontiana (mother of thousands), etc.

    1. Seed collection. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Callistephus chinensis, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Hibiscus esculentus (okra), etc.

    Flowering tree species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus hwangshanensis (Huangshan pine), Pinus parviflora, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Chamaecyparis pisifera (sawara cypress), Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Plumosa', Chamaecyparis obtusa (hinoki cypress), Albizia julibrissin, Liquidambar formosana (Chinese sweetgum), Camptotheca acuminata, Eucommia ulmoides, Cornus alba (Tatarian dogwood), Sapium sebiferum, Wisteria sinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Caragana sinica, Spiraea cantonensis. Flowering tree species that can be sown immediately after collection or must be stored in moist sand include: Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Trachycarpus fortunei, Cinnamomum camphora, Juniperus virginiana, Sapindus mukorossi, Lycium chinense (Chinese wolfberry), Taxus chinensis, Magnolia grandiflora, Ilex chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Photinia serrulata, Photinia davidsoniae, Rosa chinensis (used for cultivating rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted for flowerbed planting and flower border arrangement in November include: Silene pendula, Dianthus chinensis, Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Viola tricolor 'Hortensis' (large-flowered pansy), Antirrhinum majus, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, etc.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: Cinnamomum camphora, Magnolia grandiflora, Albizia julibrissin, Sapindus mukorossi, Ligustrum lucidum, Koelreuteria paniculata, Sapium sebiferum, Magnolia denudata, Osmanthus fragrans, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Aesculus species, Tilia species, Cercis gigantea (giant redbud), Liriodendron chinense, Magnolia soulangeana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Malus spectabilis, etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately pruned back or cut short, and most leaves removed, the trunk bound well with straw rope, and a large soil ball kept (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter) to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be cut short, large branches trimmed, a soil ball kept and the trunk bound well. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk misting management must be strengthened for survival. In addition, cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent massive evaporation of water from within the tree.

    In November, Prunus mume stumps, Chimonanthus praecox, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. can be transplanted and potted up, placed in plastic tunnels for flower forcing, to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted Hyacinthus orientalis, Tulipa gesneriana, Narcissus poeticus, etc. should be moved into plastic tunnels to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels or rooms, the amount of watering in November is specifically measured by keeping the potting soil moist; it must not be too wet, because if the temperature is low and too much water is applied, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, the amount of watering should be appropriately increased, and necessary leaf misting should be given.

For those potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron species, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pericallis hybrida, etc., as well as fruit-ornamental plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus limon, Pyracantha fortuneana, Nandina domestica, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Ardisia crenata, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be frequently misted to facilitate the enlargement and growth of flower buds and to make the fruit appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses and rooms, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be frequently misted so that they always remain verdant and glossy. In relatively warm greenhouses and rooms, the amount of watering can be increased. For relatively cold-sensitive foliage plants, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea/Maranta species, Dieffenbachia seguine, Aglaonema 'Green King', Codiaeum variegatum, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc., the amount of watering should be controlled to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    The watering time for potted flowers in November is best at 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature is required to be basically consistent with the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants caused by water temperature being too low, which would then affect their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors where the temperature is above 15°C, species such as Rhododendron hybridum, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Daphne odora, Pericallis hybrida, Cyclamen persicum, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hyacinthus orientalis, Clivia miniata, Tulipa gesneriana, ornamental Bromeliaceae, Schlumbergera truncata, Vriesea species (five-color bromeliad), etc., can continue to be given low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; using 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, supplementary fertilizing should be stopped to help them overwinter in normal dormancy. For most ground-planted flowering trees, such as Malus species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia species, Michelia chapensis (Lechang michelia), Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia figo, Michelia foveolata, Gardenia jasminoides, Aesculus species, Cinnamomum camphora, Spiraea species, Osmanthus fragrans, Vitis vinifera, Rosa chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Prunus serrulata, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Trachycarpus fortunei, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Paeonia suffruticosa, Forsythia viridissima, Paeonia lactiflora, Hypericum monogynum, etc., dry cake fertilizer can be buried, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant; smaller plants can have less, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls and ball-shaped forms that have not yet been pruned; after pruning is completed, base fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, carry out all-round shaping and pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma congestum, Fraxinus chinensis 'Jiedu Baila', Pyracantha fortuneana, Serissa japonica, Juniperus chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chimonanthus praecox, Malus spectabilis, etc., laying a good framework for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted Rosa chinensis that have not yet been pruned. For each plant, except for retaining 3 to 5 vigorous 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, the remaining old stems should be cut off from their base, and all thin weak branches should be cut off; for ground-planted Lagerstroemia indica that has not been pruned, carry out strong pruning back of the current year's branches, except for retaining a few coarse branches at 20 cm to 30 cm from the base, all the remaining current year's branches should be cut off, to help produce more robust new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowering trees on flowerbeds, roadside edges and courtyards, such as Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus fragrans, Cinnamomum camphora, Platanus orientalis (oriental plane), Magnolia liliflora, Forsythia viridissima, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus serrulata, Camellia japonica, Albizia julibrissin, Pyracantha fortuneana, Pittosporum tobira, Malus spectabilis, etc., cut off all deformed branches, weak thin branches, inner-canopy branches, pest-damaged branches, etc., and appropriately prune back the leggy branches that protrude from the crown. In addition, in November, coarse palm trees can be stripped of their palm fiber, and the trunks cleaned well, so that they show their due ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flowering tree species, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron species, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nandina domestica, Araucaria heterophylla, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Aglaonema species, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus limon, Fortunella margarita, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera arboricola, Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Caryota mitis, Ficus elastica, Pachira aquatica, Phoenix canariensis, Rhapis excelsa, etc., they can be placed in plastic tunnels, as long as a room temperature of not lower than about 5°C is maintained.

For cold-sensitive potted flower species, such as Calathea/Maranta species, Dieffenbachia seguine, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron bipinnatifidum (tree philodendron), Aglaia odorata, Codiaeum variegatum, Odontonema strictum, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, red (green) gem, Aglaonema 'Green Giant', Aglaonema 'Green King', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Plumeria rubra (frangipani), Dracaena sanderiana, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Cymbidium faberi, etc., they should be placed indoors at a room temperature not lower than 10°C, or double-layer plastic tunnels can be used for protection through the winter.

For those relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowering trees, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Malus species, Rhododendron simsii (Indian azalea), Punica granatum, Ulmus parvifolia, Lagerstroemia indica, Buxus sinica, Sageretia thea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pinus parviflora, Juniperus squamata, Juniperus chinensis, Acer buergerianum, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc., they can be directly buried together with the flower pots in wind-protected, sunny soil; under conditions not lower than -10°C, freeze damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, plastic film and soft straw can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in sheds, greenhouses or rooms in November, besides ensuring a certain temperature, ventilation should also be done well. Doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent the plants from being stuffy indoors for a long time, which causes flower drop, fruit drop and leaf drop; in addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not enter the room, otherwise it can also easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop in plants. When ventilating, care should also be taken never to let the plants be directly hit by cold wind.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees and shrubs prone to leaf diseases, such as grapes, crabapples, roses, Chinese roses, camellias, chrysanthemums, etc., collecting and burning the fallen leaves under the plants can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases the following year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk and split-trunk style stump bonsai, the dead trunk and split parts can be coated with lime-sulfur mixture as a preservative, to prevent deep rot in the xylem of the stump.

For whiteflies, scale insects, etc. appearing on potted flowering trees placed in greenhouses or sheds (they may occur on bitter orange, Buddha's hand, sago palm, orchids, camellias, clivia, and Aspidistra), first wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second spray with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, and Chinese roses), spraying tobacco water can be used for control.

For Western azaleas placed in sheds, stop spraying leaf fertilizer such as Yemianbao, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    In November, the main types of bonsai plants suitable for shaping include: Buddhist pine, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, white cypress, prostrate juniper, Euonymus bungeanus, Serissa japonica, plum, wintersweet, oak, Chinese holly, wintergreen, boxleaf euonymus, pearl euonymus, Chinese elm, and Hall crabapple.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and hung with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when deeper constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be untied in November, and the trunk and branches can be re-tied and adjusted.

For new tree stumps such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, bougainvillea, Adina rubella, firethorn, and Elaeagnus pungens, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting and branch cutting, plant them in sandy loam fields using the shallow-burial and high-mounding method, and shape them after they sprout branches the following year.

After 1 to 2 years of cultivation and shaping, stumps that have basically taken shape can, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots and branches, be repotted into suitable containers, matched with fist-sized stones and dotted with moss, and then used for indoor display around the Spring Festival.

Well-shaped tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, Chinese juniper, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc., can be potted in suitable containers in November, with strengthened water management, and can be used the following spring for display in squares, parks and auditoriums.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month most regions of China enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south in China, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions drop below zero one after another, with frequent heavy frost. This month's flower and tree maintenance should focus on three aspects: first, doing a good job of heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees brought into greenhouses, sheds and rooms; second, doing a good job of pruning and cleaning open-field flowers and trees and turning and fertilizing the soil; third, doing the preparatory work of composting organic fertilizer and mixing potting soil.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. In December, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, African daisy, etc.; flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stored in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as Elizabeth), heavenly bamboo, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen species, firethorn, palm, privet, camphor, small-leaf privet, soapberry, photinia, and Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. In December, woody ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings include: plum (mainly varieties such as Gongfen and Lü'e); Chinese rose (mainly easy-to-root varieties such as Elizabeth, floribunda rose, and miniature rose); redleaf plum, wintersweet (cutting with heel), spiraea, boxwood species, etc. Among them, plum and redleaf plum cuttings should preferably use yellow subsoil, Chinese rose cuttings should preferably use a mixed substrate of rice chaff ash and fine sand at 2:1, and other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film for heat and moisture retention.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of hibiscus, geranium, Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, jade plant, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, wax begonia, cane begonia, Rieger begonia, Chloranthus, jasmine, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Lantana camara, Schefflera, Daphne, pothos, Cordyline, etc. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be taken of gardenia, golden-heart (golden-edge) boxwood, Mahonia, Hypericum, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Buddhist pine, Japanese arborvitae, Serissa japonica, firethorn, silver bud willow, and Triarrhena, etc. In addition, branches of Chinese trumpet creeper, lilac, grape, etc. can also be cut and stored in sand for cuttings the following spring.

    3. Grafting. Excellent plum varieties, such as Guhong and Zhusha, can in December use seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, peach, etc. sown that year; after digging up the rootstock, do cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant them on the seedbed at a certain spacing, burying soil above the graft union, even covering most of the scion, taking care that water does not seep into the union, covering with plastic film for heat and moisture retention, and uncovering the film in the following spring after the scion sprouts. Use dug-up wild rose plants to bud-graft excellent varieties of Chinese rose; or use vigorous branch sections of the Elizabeth rose variety (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose scions on the upper end, and then plant the grafted Elizabeth scion sections into a loose seedbed. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil, taking care that water does not seep into the union, covering with plastic film to retain moisture and heat, and in the following spring after the scion sprouts, uncover the film, and only after it has completely survived may a blade be used to cut open the binding tape at the union. In addition, red maple can also be side-grafted indoors with bagging for moisture retention.

    4. Layering. In December, flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: Buddhist pine, plum, camellia, osmanthus, Michelia figo, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia, snowball viburnum, Weigela florida, gardenia, winter jasmine, Forsythia, hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate, etc.

    5. Division. In December, herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: rain lily, dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, red wood sorrel, Aspidistra, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, large-leaf lilyturf, Ophiopogon, Rohdea japonica, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, and Aglaonema. When cutting off the offset plantlets at the base of a large variegated bromeliad for division, it must be a small plant that has already grown on the mother plant for three or four months, otherwise the colored bands of the divided offset are likely to disappear, which should be especially noted.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: heavenly bamboo, Hypericum, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Rhapis excelsa, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum, jasmine, Chloranthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, sisal, Phoenix bamboo, and Pleioblastus argenteostriatus, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. The herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally those herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold rooms, such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, marigold, Tagetes patula, cyclamen, clivia, etc. Clivia seeds should preferably be sown immediately after collection.

    The main woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December include: Chinese rose, wisteria, privet, small-leaf privet, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen species, camphor, and photinia species. After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand storage for germination, and only after the seeds crack and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground; under dry storage they easily lose vitality, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising the following year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In December, herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds and flower borders include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, pot marigold, daisy, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in sheds, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, Dianthus, and pansy, and can be used for street display the following spring.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, wintersweet, plum, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, redleaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, red maple, ornamental peach, pagoda tree, and weeping pagoda tree, etc. For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, however, transplanting should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, osmanthus, palm, southern magnolia, camphor, azalea, wintergreen, etc. When transplanting, first heavily cut back the main tip and large branches, and remove most leaves; at the same time, carry a large root ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, seal the cut wounds on the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them with film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, also frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    In December, tree stumps and flowering trees that can be potted include: plum, wintersweet stump, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, and Hall crabapple. Place them in sheds for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinths, tulips, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc., continue to be placed in sheds for flower forcing, which can promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic sheds with temperatures not lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering freeze damage, such as asparagus fern, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Chinese fan palm, sword fern, Rhapis excelsa, heavenly bamboo, Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Phoenix bamboo, Pleioblastus argenteostriatus, and sago palm, etc.

For ornamental plant species requiring an overwintering temperature not lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, rubber tree, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, pocket coconut, calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose, Lantana camara, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, geranium, hibiscus, and Bambusa ventricosa, they can overwinter in double-layer plastic sheds. For species requiring an overwintering temperature not lower than 10°C, such as croton, Caladium bicolor, Peperomia, Maranta, lucky bamboo, fish-tail palm, Brazil iron, money tree, Fittonia, bromeliads, pink taro, poinsettia, Cymbidium hyacinth, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Pachystachys lutea, Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Dendrobium, South American cycad, red (green) gem, Oncidium, and Cymbidium hookerianum, etc., in double-layer sheds with good sealing performance, appropriate heating should also be provided; during especially cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, cover the top of the shed with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature turns warmer.

For relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum, crabapple species, rhododendron, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, red cypress, Adina rubella, Chinese holly, and Fraxinus chinensis, they generally will not suffer freeze damage when the temperature is not lower than -10°C; in especially cold weather, add plastic film or soft straw for cold protection.

[page]    Whether bonsai, potted flowers and foliage or fruit ornamental plants are placed in sheds, greenhouses, or rooms, besides maintaining an indoor temperature suited to them, attention should also be paid to ventilation, and doors and windows can be opened around noon, the warmest time of the day, for ventilation, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, care must also be taken not to let cold wind blow directly on the plants, so as to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, sheds and rooms, the aim is to keep the potting soil moist; if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, it is very easy to cause root rot in the plants. When the temperature rises, the amount of watering can be increased and appropriate leaf spraying can be given.

For those potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, plum, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, hyacinth, and European narcissus, etc., and fruit ornamentals such as bitter orange, lemon, Buddha's hand, four-season orange, Glycosmis, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, and heavenly bamboo, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but leaf spraying must also be given, to help the flower buds expand and also to increase the vividness of the flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, both the potting soil should be kept moist and leaf spraying should be given, always keeping the leaf surface clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink taro, Syngonium, Maranta, croton, and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', when the room temperature is already close to the lowest temperature limit they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    The watering time in December is preferably the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water temperature that is too low.

For newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors, check frequently and give supplemental watering in time; for transplanted evergreen trees, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants and bonsai placed in ordinary sheds, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most field-planted greening trees and flowering trees, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Manglietia, Michelia species, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum, cherry blossom, redleaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, Chinese peony, tree peony, Forsythia, Hypericum, grape, Chinese rose, spiraea, tulip tree, mock orange, Deutzia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, heavenly bamboo, lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, Rosa banksiae, Hypericum, weeping willow, Cryptomeria, cedar, cypress species, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus triloba, Prunus japonica, Exochorda, photinia, redbud, and rose of Sharon, etc., in December while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer edge of the plant root zone, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cow manure, pond mud, and septic tank residue, etc., to lay a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum, wintersweet, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, bromeliads, Daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, and freesia, etc., continue to apply 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution to promote bud formation and flowering of the plants.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls and ball-shaped topiary that were not pruned in November. Hedges and green walls include privet, small-leaf privet, Ligustrum quihoui, large-leaf boxwood, Sabina chinensis, four-season osmanthus, and Photinia davidsoniae, etc.; ball-shaped plants include Chinese holly, waxberry, photinia, boxwood species, Pittosporum, Forsythia, firethorn, dragon juniper, and Chinese juniper, etc. While completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For field-planted flowers and trees not yet pruned in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, palm, redleaf plum, photinia, plane tree, plum, and wintersweet, etc., carry out shaping and pruning, and after pruning is finished, bury and apply fertilizer around the roots.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned rather than wired, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Chinese holly, Fujian tea, trident maple, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, firethorn, Serissa japonica, Buddhist pine, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, crabapple, and papaya, etc., continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be combined with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees prone to leaf pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapple species, rose, Chinese rose, camellia, and crape myrtle, collect and burn the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases the following year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on primrose, the former should be controlled in time with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For species in greenhouses and sheds where scale insects easily appear on flowers and trees, such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, sago palm, camellia, and Aspidistra, etc., first wipe them once with a rag, then control with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flower and tree species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, Chinese rose, and Fujian tea, tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-field cultivated flowering trees such as Pittosporum, osmanthus, plane tree, camellia, small-leaf privet, firethorn, oleander, crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, cedar, photinia, crape myrtle, and wintersweet, various scale insects often appear, such as horned wax scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and felt scale, etc. At this time, spraying with higher-concentration pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin rarely causes phytotoxicity.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of next year's seedling raising and potting soil preparation, the idle winter time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into water vats or pools, add water, and seal them for soaking and fermentation.

Stack dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, branches, etc. in layers with garden soil, set fire and burn them to form burnt soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix and compost stable manure, pond mud, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc. with garden soil, seal for fermentation, and it can be used for topdressing seedlings and preparing potting soil the following year.

    7. Preparing potting soil. Using the idle winter time, find a piece of open ground or a spot under tree shade, and pile up as much potting soil as possible, to meet the need for repotting and potting herbaceous flowers the following spring. Generally, it is 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, and 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder or rice chaff ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots and other debris, and after being thoroughly mixed, cover with plastic film; it can also be piled indoors, and after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning the soil and freezing the clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cuttings and planting out seedlings, plowing can be carried out in December; for plots for sowing and planting out seedlings, cake fertilizer, stable manure, pond mud, etc. can be applied before turning; without making beds for the time being, after overwintering and freezing the clods, trenches can be drawn and beds made in early spring the following year, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Buddhist pine, Japanese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, Chinese cypress, white cypress, Oriental arborvitae, creeping juniper, Shimpaku juniper, black pine, five-needle pine, red pine, Adina rubella, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Euonymus bungeanus, ginkgo, Serissa japonica, Caragana, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, wintersweet, tamarisk, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple, Chaenomeles cathayensis, boxleaf euonymus, pearl euonymus, wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan, Fujian tea, Fraxinus chinensis, and oak, etc.

For bonsai plants fixed and shaped with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixing time has already been one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be removed, and metal wire or palm rope should be used again for tying, hanging and guiding.

For field-planted plum stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, etc. that have already been shaped, after carrying out some necessary pruning and shaping, choose suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so that they can be used for display in public places or rooms the following year.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and stump bonsai, careful management is a must: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant root system; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating the artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent the plants planted on the rockery from freezing to death or dying of drought. They can be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so that they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperature and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, around the "third nine-day period", and most regions of China enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north moves south frequently, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperature of the year appears. This month's flower maintenance is mainly about doing a good job of heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, etc. in greenhouses, sheds and rooms, followed by tree pruning, cleaning of dead branches and fallen leaves, and turning and preparing the soil, preparing potting soil and other auxiliary work.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. In January, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, African daisy, etc. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in the open field include: Chinese rose (Elizabeth), heavenly bamboo, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen, firethorn, palm, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry, privet, wisteria, Chinese tallow, and goldenrain tree, etc.

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-field or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: plum (varieties such as Lü'e and Gongfen), redleaf plum, Chinese rose (varieties such as Elizabeth, floribunda, and miniature), cherry blossom, wintersweet (with heel), spiraea, boxwood species, pomegranate, silver bud willow, Mahonia, Buddhist pine, Serissa japonica, Triarrhena, Hypericum, Forsythia, Spiraea thunbergii, winter jasmine, and Jasminum, etc. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: jasmine, Chloranthus, geranium, fuchsia, African violet (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, carnation, umbrella plant, jade plant, Portulacaria afra, jade tree, Echeveria, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, Pilea cadierei, Pilea peperomioides, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera, rubber tree, Daphne, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Aglaonema, pothos, and Cordyline, etc. In addition, branches of lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, Weigela florida, Deutzia, hydrangea, plane tree, and fig, etc. can also be cut and stored in sand, and cuttings can be taken in March.

    3. Grafting. For excellent plum varieties, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach, and wild peach can be used as rootstock for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, bury and plant them on the seedbed, and cover with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection. In the Guangdong region, often between Minor Cold and Major Cold, bud-graft four-season orange, kumquat, etc.; use dug-up wild roses to bud-graft excellent varieties of Chinese rose, use the Elizabeth rose variety as rootstock-scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose varieties, with grafting and cutting carried out simultaneously, and cover with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia, camellia, plum, Weigela florida, gardenia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Buddhist pine, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia, hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate, and red maple, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, silver-edge lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, rain lily, Zephyranthes candida, hosta, purple hosta, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, spider plant species, Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, bromeliads, small tulip, Alpinia zerumbet, Monstera deliciosa, and aloe, etc. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: heavenly bamboo, Hypericum, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Spiraea thunbergii, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum, jasmine, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, gardenia, Triarrhena, boxwood, and purple magnolia, etc.

    6. Collecting seeds. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern or clivia seeds in the greenhouse, they can be sown immediately after collection; mature winter coral seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of heavenly bamboo, firethorn, wintergreen species, and Ardisia crenata can be picked, and after treatment stored in sand for germination, and sowing can be carried out only after the seeds crack and show white.

    In January, frequently check the seeds stored in sand, including Magnolia species, Michelia species, and photinia species, wintergreen species, etc., to see whether the seeds have become moldy; if mold appears, the seeds must be poured out, rubbed and washed again, and replaced with clean fine sand for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, supplemental spraying should be given in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has already emerged, sowing must be carried out immediately, and plastic film, straw or pine needles should be covered for heat and moisture retention.

II. Transplanting and planting out

    In January, in less cold regions, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale, pot marigold, daisy, etc.; in relatively cold regions, after potting seedlings of Dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy, primrose, etc., first place them in simple plastic sheds, and after spring returns and the weather warms, use them for display in street flower beds, green spaces and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple species, wintersweet, plum, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, redleaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, red-flowered spiraea, Triarrhena, Chinese rose, pagoda tree, and Sophora japonica var. pendula, etc. For evergreen tree species, especially camphor and Ligustrum quihoui, etc., except in special circumstances, transplanting this month should generally be advanced to December or delayed to February; of course, in sheltered places, with heavy cutback after transplanting and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during the forestry afforestation land preparation process, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, rhododendron, crape myrtle, Japanese maple, wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus pungens, and Euonymus bungeanus, etc.; for evergreen tree stumps, such as heavenly bamboo, Ilex cornuta, Chinese holly, oak, etc., heavy cutback must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous stumps or evergreen stumps, the shallow-burial and high-mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains should be covered for freeze protection.

III. Cold protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management work; a slight negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the lowest temperature that various flower species can endure, create a special environment for them to overwinter safely, either in a greenhouse, in a shed, indoors, or buried in open-field soil. In simple plastic sheds not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can endure low temperatures around 0°C can be placed, such as asparagus fern, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra, Fatsia japonica, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, Rhapis excelsa, heavenly bamboo, Aucuba, Michelia figo, Cymbidium goeringii, Dendrobium, Ardisia crenata, Daphne, sago palm, Acorus calamus, Phoenix bamboo, and Pleioblastus argenteostriatus, etc. In double-layer plastic sheds not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can endure low temperatures around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, pocket coconut, bottle orchid, calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, camellia, sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, Bambusa ventricosa, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, and Lantana camara, etc. In double-layer plastic sheds or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can endure low temperatures around 10°C can be placed, such as croton, Caladium bicolor, Syngonium, Maranta, bromeliads, Peperomia, Coleus, lucky bamboo, fish-tail palm, Brazil iron, money tree, Fittonia, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Aglaia odorata, Cymbidium hyacinth, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, South American cycad, desert rose, pink taro, poinsettia, Pachystachys lutea, and coral flower, etc. During especially cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be covered on the top of the shed, and covering with straw curtains can stop only after the temperature turns warmer. On very cold days, strengthen inspections of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise it is very easy to cause freeze damage to the plants. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum, crabapple species, rhododendron, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, summer cypress, Oriental arborvitae, small waxberry, Chinese holly, wintergreen, and Fraxinus chinensis, etc., they can be buried in the soil together with the flower pots, and when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, freeze damage generally will not occur; in especially cold weather, add plastic film or soft straw for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in sheds, greenhouses, or rooms, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, besides maintaining an air temperature suited to them, ventilation should also be done well, and doors and windows can be opened around noon, the warmest time of the day, for ventilation, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold wind blowing directly on the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and sheds during each cold air movement southward; if broken glass, torn film, etc. are found, plug and repair them in time, so as not to let potted flowers suffer freeze damage. When supplying coal, gas or oil heating to greenhouses, also check carefully, so that no leaking gas or smoke enters the greenhouse or shed, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop caused by smoke damage, etc.

To force tree peonies to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 hours of extra light each day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple, winter jasmine, etc. can also be placed in sheds at about 15°C for flower forcing, with appropriately increased lighting time, to meet the need for indoor display of potted flowers and trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, pheasant's eye narcissus, freesia, etc. already placed in greenhouses in December, strengthening water and fertilizer management can also be expected to be used for decoration and display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    In January's watering management for potted flowers, first and most important is to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature roughly consistent with the soil temperature; if the difference between the two is too great, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, even causing leaf drop, root rot or death. The watering time is best arranged in the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, sheds and rooms, it is suitable to keep the potting soil moist; when the temperature is low, reduce watering accordingly; when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give leaf spraying. For most foliage plants, both keep the potting soil moist and pay attention to leaf spraying, always keeping the leaves clean. For less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink taro, Syngonium, Maranta, and croton, etc., when the temperature is close to the lower limit of the lowest temperature the plant can endure, watering should be especially controlled. For those potted flowers that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, poinsettia, cineraria, wintersweet, plum, primrose, hyacinth, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, and pot marigold, etc., and fruit ornamentals such as firethorn, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, Glycosmis, and winter coral, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water, to help the flower buds expand and also to increase the vivid color of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in out-of-the-way spots from lacking water, and timely supplemental watering should be given to plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and give supplemental watering in time; especially for those evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon, to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off due to overly dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most field-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapple species, white magnolia, southern magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia, Michelia species, maple species, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor, linden, crape myrtle, Chinese trumpet creeper, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum, Buddhist pine, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, Schima superba, Machilus, Nyssa, Camptotheca, tree peony, Forsythia, boxwood, grape, coral tree, Chinese rose, hydrangea, redleaf plum, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, tulip tree, Deutzia, mock orange, Rosa banksiae, Elaeocarpus, golden silk willow, weeping elm, Cryptomeria, Taiwan fir, cedar, pagoda tree, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Exochorda, rose of Sharon, lilac, crape myrtle, photinia, heavenly bamboo, black bamboo, pomegranate, and loquat, etc., if the fertilization task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, stable manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. around the outer edge of the tree root zone, to lay a material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, pheasant's eye narcissus, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, tulip, colorful bromeliad, clivia, bird of paradise, and Christmas cactus, etc., continue to apply low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution, to help the plants grow and form buds and bloom.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants and bonsai placed in sheds, because the plants are dormant in winter, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

Continue pruning hedges, green walls and ball-shaped plants not yet pruned in December; continue pruning flowering shrubs not yet pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, Rosa banksiae, Chinese trumpet creeper, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor, plane tree, Chinese tallow, photinia, pomegranate, redleaf plum, papaya, wintersweet, plum, palm, and grape, etc.; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer edge of the roots, to meet the needs of spring growth.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned with wiring as a supplement, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, bougainvillea, Fujian tea, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, Elaeagnus pungens, firethorn, Serissa japonica, and Chinese juniper, etc., continue, according to the original composition requirements and the development and change trends of the plant trunk and branches, to adjust and prune according to personal aesthetic taste, laying a foundation for spring growth and formation. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and disease control

For the main trunks or large branches of crabapple species, plum species, Prunus species, papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry blossom, and redleaf plum, etc., those hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles, etc. can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunk and branches burned.

Clean up the leaves under Chinese rose, rose, grape, crape myrtle, etc., gather them and burn them in a concentrated way, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases the following year.

For horned wax scale, tortoise wax scale, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and felt scale, etc. appearing on the trunks and branches of Pittosporum, plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, plum, wintersweet, and photinia, etc., spray with high-concentration Supracide, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime-sulfur mixture, etc., which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold easily appearing on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on plants such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, and kumquat in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches with a damp cloth, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in greenhouses, spray 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

VIII. Composting fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into water pools or vats for soaking and fermentation, so as to be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; stack withered grass, branches, fallen leaves, etc. in layers with garden soil, set fire and burn them to make burnt soil, which can be used as covering soil when sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix and compost stable manure, pond fertilizer, tobacco powder, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc. with garden soil for fermentation, and it can be used as fertilizer for preparing potting soil.

IX. Plowing and freezing clods

For nursery land not yet plowed in December, seize the time to plow in early January; while plowing the garden plot, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, farmyard manure, etc.; after overwintering and freezing the clods, draw trenches and make beds in early spring, for use in sowing and planting out seedlings.

Because January is especially cold, plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good flexibility and easy shaping operations, such as Buddhist pine, Chinese cypress, ginkgo, boxleaf euonymus, white cypress, Chinese juniper, Serissa japonica, creeping juniper, Shimpaku juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, Adina rubella, Caragana, wintersweet, Euonymus bungeanus, banyan, and wisteria, etc. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in simple plastic sheds, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms, which helps the healing of parts that may have been damaged during shaping.

For plants shaped 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire, etc., if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, the original binding material should be removed, and tying and guiding should be done again.

    In January, for some shallow-pot stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai, management must be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried in indoor sand beds; for stump bonsai, prevent the potting soil from freezing, damaging the plant's fibrous roots, and possibly causing the artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate; also prevent the plants planted on small rocks from freezing to death; they should be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

March, this is a season that belongs to gardeners.

Time flies so fast. In the blink of an eye, spring has quietly arrived. The willows by the river have sprouted tender green shoots, the winter jasmine is already a sea of gold, and the early spring plum blossoms have not yet had time to fade, while the white magnolias and pink cherry and plum blossoms can hardly wait to burst forth in the most springlike colors. The sunlight is bright and warm on the skin, but a gardener's mind has long since flown to the garden. Spring is here, and the busy, joyful life of a gardener has already begun.

This season is already a happy feast for flower lovers, with all kinds of blooms in full glory: cherry blossoms, plum blossoms, crabapple, February orchids, tulips... too many to count, so I will not list them all! In recent years, hellebores have become popular, and I really love them. Their blooming season is especially early, and they hang their heads low. Even without a large patch, they are extremely beautiful. During the flowering period they need appropriate light, while in summer they need shade.

A Gardener's March Flower Tasks

Sowing

In the south, you can start long ago. If sowing outdoors, for plants such as cockscomb, cypress vine, morning glory, cosmos, and spider flower, it is still best to wait until the warm late March and early April. Otherwise, a sudden late cold spell can drop temperatures below 10 degrees all at once, and the newly emerged seedlings can be in some danger.

Sowing notes:

It is best to use a dedicated medium. Do not just dig up some soil from a roadside green belt in the wild and sow casually! Airiness, looseness, and a certain ability to retain moisture are all very important. Pay attention to whether seeds are light-loving or light-avoiding; light-avoiding seeds need to be covered with soil on the surface. After sowing, maintain a certain humidity and temperature, and gradually expose them to light. Too much shade easily causes leggy growth, while too tender seedlings can suddenly be scorched and wilted by the sun. According to different conditions, thin seedlings, pinch off growing tips, or transplant into pots in a timely manner. Note that seedlings are more delicate, so do not ignore them and let them dry out, and do not fertilize too heavily or you will burn them to death. It is recommended to mix slow-release fertilizer into the sowing medium. During the 1-2 month seedling stage, you can temporarily refrain from fertilizing, or apply a diluted weak fertilizer.

Annual and Biennial Flowers

Besides plants grown from seed, at this time of year you can directly buy ready-made flowering plants at the flower market and plant them straight into the garden. Viola, daisies, calendula, and fairy primrose can be planted in early spring. Nasturtiums, snapdragons, and others sown in autumn can be moved outdoors. Toadflax, sweet alyssum, and others can also be planted directly. It is best to plant poppies directly in the garden; paired with tulips, the effect is excellent.

Perennial Plants

After winter dormancy, early spring before new growth begins is the most suitable time for division and repotting. Plants such as hostas, chrysanthemums, daylilies, and irises can be divided now. In particular, clumps of daylilies and irises that have been cultivated for 2-5 years should be divided. After digging up the clumps, immediately divide them into small clumps with 1-3 roots each and replant them separately. Those divided and replanted in February to March can bloom profusely in May to June. Perennial herbaceous plants that overwinter outdoors, such as New York asters, Michaelmas daisies, coneflowers, and blanket flowers, have always been plants I really like. They bloom into late autumn and even early winter, and now they have sprouted new growth on schedule, and soon it will be their flowering season again. Cold-sensitive plants overwintered on the balcony, such as geraniums and bougainvillea, can now fully be outdoors in sun and rain, and they continue to bloom. Of course, do not forget to water and fertilize, and to pinch tips and prune in time; only then will the flowering season be even more beautiful!

Bulbous Plants

March and April are paradise for bulbous plants. Early-flowering crocuses, hyacinths, grape hyacinths, tulips, and oxalis are in season, while ranunculus can be bought ready-made at the flower market. If planted in the ground in a garden, they still need another month to bloom.

A special mention goes to amaryllis. They can be taken outdoors now. March is the season when they begin to grow. At this time, replenish water and fertilizer in a timely manner, and the flower stalks will quickly emerge!

Succulent Plants

Actually, before March had even arrived, as soon as the weather warmed up a little, I hurried to move the succulents outdoors. Under the temperature difference between day and night, the succulents also thrived, and one by one their colors became more vivid and charming. A few days ago, the temperature suddenly dropped to 0 degrees again, which made me a little worried, but they can still withstand short periods of low temperature completely. In this season, they need timely watering and appropriate fertilizing. Under the spring sunlight, the succulents have also entered their most vigorous growing season.

Woody Plants

For deciduous woody flowering plants and trees, the most suitable transplanting period is before spring budbreak, such as hibiscus, rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crape myrtle, and plum blossoms. March is already the end of the best transplanting time, so it should be done as early as possible. Before budbreak, they can also be propagated by cuttings. For cold-sensitive woody flowering plants such as Milan, jasmine, and white orchid, the weather in March is still alternately warm and cold, so they are not suitable for transplanting or repotting, but they can be placed outdoors to begin adapting. Azaleas bloom most profusely in March to April, and after flowering they need fertilizing to promote the development of new shoots. Of course, attention should also be paid to the prevention and control of black spot, powdery mildew, anthracnose, and gray mold. Deciduous flowering trees can be sprayed once with 0.3 degree lime sulfur mixture, and after budbreak sprayed with 800 times 70% thiophanate-methyl or 75% chlorothalonil. For flowering trees easily harmed by aphids, such as honeysuckle, peach, chrysanthemum, and rose, spray once before and after budbreak with 1000 times imidacloprid.

Here is a set of pictures of my balcony in early spring. I am so delighted by the arrival of spring!