How to grow clivia from seed, for a more abundant flowering season

Clivia is very beautiful when in bloom, and it adds plenty of color to a home. But many people fail to keep clivia alive when growing it, and in fact clivia has very high growing requirements. When choosing a pot, many people think a smaller one takes up less space, but clivia's requirements for a pot mean it cannot be too small, as this affects normal root growth.

Clivia also has fairly high soil requirements; when growing it you can buy bagged soil at a flower market and pick up some flower fertilizer while you are there. When you start planting clivia, you can put the flower fertilizer into the soil, but do not add too much, because fresh soil is already very nutritious. After putting the soil in the pot, you can plant the clivia into the soil, but do not bury it too deep.

A newly planted clivia should be watered moderately; because the soil inside is dry, water it thoroughly, and then water again after about a week. Clivia itself does not particularly like excessive watering, and overwatering causes root rot, which affects normal growth and can even kill the plant.

Clivia also has very high temperature requirements, and in many northern regions the temperature starts dropping in late autumn. At this point, do not put the clivia in a cold place; keep it at around 22 degrees so growth is not affected. It will then usually flower normally around the twelfth lunar month, so you can enjoy the beautiful blooms during the New Year.

If the temperature is too low, the plant may suffer cold damage, and when clivia is in bloom it may attract small white flying insects. At this point you should spray the clivia with insecticide, and after spraying do not water immediately, as this affects the effectiveness of the treatment. Wait about 4-5 days before you start spraying water again.

Growing methods for several common flowers

Growing methods for several common flowers
1. Fringed iris
Fringed iris is a perennial herb in the genus Iris, family Iridaceae. It is distributed in nearly every province and region of the country, and also occurs in Japan.
The rhizome is relatively slender and weak, sits shallowly in the soil, grows horizontally, and is yellowish brown. The leaves are sword-shaped, dark green, and glossy. The flower stalks rise above the leaves, and the flowers are numerous, arranged in a terminal, long and rather sparse raceme; the style divides into 3 branches, dark purple, enlarged into petal-like form, recurved and covering the anthers; the flowering period is April to May. The common flower colors of this species are pale purple or pale blue. It is suitable for naturalistic planting, and also works well in flower borders, flower beds, and as cut-flower material.
Ecological habits: It prefers shady, damp places, and has strong adaptability and cold tolerance. When cultivated outdoors through winter in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, the aboveground stems and leaves do not completely wither. It requires acidic soil, and grows well in a moist, fertile, sunny environment.
Propagation: Mainly by division, generally once every 2 to 3 years. Division after flowering or in autumn is best, as it favors full plant growth and flower bud differentiation. Dig up the rhizome and divide it, and replant each section with 1 to 2 buds. For seed propagation, seeds germinate 4 to 6 weeks after sowing, and plants take 2 to 3 years after sowing to flower.
Cultivation, pests and diseases: Before planting, apply plenty of base fertilizer; after planting, press the rhizome firmly, and plant shallowly rather than deeply. In early spring, clear away dead leaves to help new shoots sprout. During the vigorous growth period, water thoroughly, and fertilize 1 to 2 times a month to encourage abundant flowers and lush leaves. During flowering, keep the soil moist, but avoid waterlogging; after flowering, apply 1 topdressing, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which benefits rhizome development; after the flowers fade and the rhizome goes dormant, keep the soil dry. Common diseases include leaf blight and bacterial soft rot, mostly caused by the larvae of the owlet moth; spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution for control. During the growing period, slugs and snails may also cause damage; spray with 3% lime water in the evening.
Planting some flowers and trees around a farmhouse both improves the environment and beautifies daily life; with clever arrangement, the courtyard becomes a feast for the eyes.
In the courtyard, plant one or two osmanthus or wintersweet as specimen or paired plantings; this is a traditional Chinese style of garden arrangement. In damp shady spots by the wall, plant shade-tolerant flowers such as iris (commonly called fringed iris) and begonia, which grow well without intensive management. For potted flowers on the balcony, small plants such as orchid tree and Chinese rose are more suitable. On the sunny side, you can plant sun-loving flowers such as chrysanthemums and scarlet sage; ample sunlight will help them grow better. On the roof, cacti and golden-edged lotus will still grow well even with long neglect. Where shade is needed, you may plant a few grapevines, morning glories, or Boston ivy by the window or along the fence. Even indoors, you can place a few shade-tolerant potted plants such as asparagus fern and orchids on a desk or tea table. In this way, the farm courtyard becomes colorful and full of life!
2. Cineraria
Cineraria is a perennial herbaceous plant in the family Asteraceae, with the whole plant densely covered in soft hairs. The leaves are arranged three per whorl and are triangular; the leaves resemble cucumber leaves, hence the name cineraria. Its flower colors are brilliant and varied, including blue flowers that are very rare indoors; the flowering period is also long, lasting about 6 months, making it an ideal potted flower for holidays such as New Year's Day, Spring Festival, and May Day Labor Day, and a representative flower of winter and spring. However, it is not easy to cultivate cineraria potted plants with good plant shape, beautiful leaf color, and long flowering, so you must master the following key technical measures in cineraria cultivation.
Sowing time: generally choose mid-August. Cineraria likes a cool climate and cannot tolerate hot, high temperatures; the moderate growing temperature is 15 to 20 degrees. The sowing box should be placed under a shade frame or under tree shade; if sowing in beds, a shade frame must be built above the bed soil to reduce solar radiant heat.
Seedling moisture control: mainly by spraying water mist to lower the temperature of the seedbed and supply moisture to the seedlings. The principle of spraying is that moistening is enough; do not let the seedbed soil become too dry, and do not let it become too wet. If it is too dry, wilted seedlings are very hard to revive; if it is too wet, and the seedlings are in a high-temperature period, they easily suffer damping-off, leading to a low seedling survival rate.
Growing medium preparation: Cineraria likes sandy soil rich in humus and well drained, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 being suitable. When preparing the growing medium for sowing, be careful to mix uncontaminated leaf mold or plant ash, pure loess, and fine sand in a 3:1:1 ratio, then sift it, and do not add any fertilizer, as growing medium prepared this way is good for seed germination and growth. Overly sticky growing medium cannot withstand drying; once it cracks even slightly, it breaks the fibrous roots of the seedlings, causing seedling death and reducing the survival rate. The growing medium after pricking out can be the same as that used for sowing, to harden the seedlings. When potting up, evenly mix soybean cake, bone meal, or superphosphate into the growing medium as base fertilizer, or use barnyard manure, burnt soil ash, garden soil, rapeseed cake, and fine sand in a 3:2:2:1:1 ratio to prepare the growing medium, ensuring an adequate nutrient supply for the plants. Barnyard manure must be composted, decomposed, and sun-dried; rapeseed cake must be crushed, and the two must be thoroughly stirred, mixed, and sifted before being used as growing medium for final planting.
Be careful to control temperature: Cineraria likes a cool climate, fears cold in winter, and fears high temperatures in summer. Therefore, in winter it should be grown in a greenhouse, generally kept above 10 degrees, and often kept at around 15 degrees room temperature, so it can grow well; in summer, place the sowing box under a shade frame, or make a sowing bed under the shade frame, and water before 10:00 a.m. or after 5:00 p.m., which is more suitable. Never water at noon, so the seedlings can pass through the high-temperature period smoothly.
In winter, be careful to control humidity: Cineraria has relatively high humidity requirements in order to grow well. How to keep humidity moderate in winter is the key to successfully growing cineraria. If it is too dry, the leaves of cineraria easily remain wilted, which is bad for leaf growth, easily turns the leaves yellow, and also easily leads to red spider mites and aphids. If watered too much and indoor humidity is too high, the roots, main stems, and leaves easily rot, and aphids are also easily produced; if the room temperature is also too high and ventilation is poor, disease is easily produced.
3. Corn poppy
Corn poppy, also known as lichun flower and manyuanchun, is an annual or biennial herbaceous flower in the genus Papaver, family Papaveraceae. The plant height is 30 to 90 cm, the stem is slender, the branches are thin and weak, and the leaves are alternate, with leaves irregularly pinnately lobed, toothed, the whole plant with sparse hairs and milky sap. Flowers are solitary at the tips of branches, with long pedicels; the buds droop, then straighten as the flower opens. Most horticultural cultivars are double-flowered. The flower colors of corn poppy are extremely rich and brilliant, including vermilion, dark purple, bright pink, snow white, and tricolor, among others. Each flower lasts only 1 to 2 days before dropping, but the buds are abundant and open successively. The flowering period is May to June; the capsule is spherical, the fruit ripening period is July, and the seeds are very small.
Corn poppy is native to Asia and Europe, and is also distributed in North America. It is cold tolerant, suited to abundant spring light and a cool climate, and cannot tolerate severe summer heat and humidity. It is usually sown in drills in flowerbed plots in early winter. It is not demanding about soil, but loose, fertile sandy loam is best. The row spacing is 20 cm. After sowing, cover with plastic film, or sow in early spring when the ground surface has just thawed, and gradually remove the film after emergence. Corn poppy is a taproot flower, with fine, deep roots and few lateral roots; at the seedling stage the roots are often about 1 times longer than the plant height, so it cannot be transplanted. If transplanted with difficulty, the survival rate is also very low. When drill-sown seedlings are too dense, thin them in 2 or 3 rounds at intervals, maintaining a plant spacing of 10 to 15 cm. Corn poppy is not demanding about water and fertilizer, but dislikes heavy water and heavy fertilizer and soil waterlogging.
Corn poppy is excellent material for flowerbeds, flower borders, and flower strips. It can also be sown in pots in January in a greenhouse or cold frame, and moved out in late April for use as May Day holiday flowers. Home gardeners can grow it on a south-facing enclosed balcony. In January, use a flower pot with an inner diameter of 20 cm, fill it more than half full with loose old potting soil, press it level, scatter 20 to 30 seeds, and cover with soil just enough that the seeds are no longer visible; after sowing, soak the pot to moisten the water. When seedlings emerge, thin them several times, removing the weak and keeping the strong, finally leaving 3 to 5 plants to grow on. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, gradually fill in growing soil up to the rim to prevent the slender stems from lodging. Keep light abundant and the air fresh, with nighttime temperatures not below 5°C, and avoid drought and waterlogging; they will then bloom in March, right through to May Day.
Corn poppy and opium poppy belong to the same family, not only resembling each other but also sharing the same habits. The difference is that opium poppy has a larger plant form and fruit, and the whole plant is covered, while corn poppy is smaller and covered in sparse hairs. But corn poppy is suspected by some people of being the drug opium; in fact, although corn poppy contains milky sap, its components do not contain laudanum. Its flowers can be made into a gargle with an antitussive effect, and its milky sap has analgesic and antidiarrheal effects. On a warm, bright spring day, patches of corn poppy in courtyards and green spaces vie to show their beauty, like clusters of red clouds and also like squares of silk handkerchiefs; when a breeze stirs, both people and flowers feel as if they are floating.
4. Pocketbook flower
Pocketbook flower is a herbaceous plant in the genus Calceolaria, family Scrophulariaceae. The flower colors include yellow, purple, red, cream, orange-red, and dark brown, and the flowers are adorned with colorful spots and markings, very lovely, and often used as indoor decorative displays. It blooms from December to February of the following year, and under greenhouse cultivation the flowering period is March to April.
Pocketbook flower is native to the Mexico and Chile region. It likes cool, humid conditions, and can grow at 3°C to 6°C indoors in winter. During the growing period it needs relatively high air humidity and attention to ventilation; abundant light is beneficial for flowering.
Ventilation and shading: Pocketbook flower likes cool conditions, and the suitable growing temperature is around 10°C. If during the growing period the stems and leaves are lush but the potting soil is too wet and the air is stuffy and hot, the stems will rot and the leaves will spoil. To lower the temperature, shading measures are often taken at noon to create a ventilated, cool environment. Especially after flowering in spring until the seeds mature in May to June, ventilation work must be done even better, with shading at noon, to help the seeds develop and mature.
Watering and fertilizing: Pocketbook flower likes a warm, humid environment, but dislikes overly wet potting soil and excessive watering during flowering. Generally, water only when the potting soil is dry. If in a greenhouse, frequently spraying water to increase air humidity is even better. When watering, do not wash directly over the plant; if water accumulates on the leaves and buds, it easily causes rot. During the pre-flowering growing season, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 10 days (diluted 10 times), and at the early flowering stage apply additional fertilizer mainly of phosphorus. When fertilizing, do not let the fertilizer water contaminate the leaves, to avoid rotting the heart and leaves.
Propagation techniques: Pocketbook flower is generally propagated by sowing; when seeds are lacking, division can also be used. Sowing should be done after the high temperatures have passed and the weather turns cooler, that is, in August to September, because seedlings are prone to damping-off and rot during the high-temperature period. Use leaf mold or peat soil mixed with half sand, sift and disinfect it, then put it into a shallow pot, fill with water by the soaking method, and sow. Pocketbook flower seeds are very small, in the form of relatively coarse powder grains. When sowing, it is best to first fold thick paper into a small triangular funnel, put the seeds in it, then hold the lower part of the small funnel with the right hand so the seeds fall evenly into the sowing pot. Do not sow too densely, otherwise the seedlings will grow thin and weak after emergence. For covering soil, simply use a fine sieve to cover with a thin layer of fine soil (it does not matter if you do not cover with soil). After sowing, cover the pot with glass to maintain humidity. Before emergence, place it in a cool place, keep the temperature at around 20°C, and emergence will occur in about 7 to 10 days. After emergence, remove the glass, thin the seedlings, and gradually let them receive sunlight, lowering the temperature to around 15°C.
When the seedlings show 2 true leaves, they can be transplanted; when they grow 4 to 6 true leaves, they can be potted individually. For the growing medium, mix 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part barnyard manure, 1 part sand, and 6 parts garden soil, with a pH of 6.5. From November to December, they can be potted into large pots for final planting.
5. Cockscomb
Cockscomb, also known as red cockscomb and rooster amaranth, is named for its inflorescence, which is twisted and folded like a rooster's comb. It is an annual herbaceous plant with a plant height of 30 to 50 cm. The stem is upright, with the upper part flattened, green or red. The leaves are alternate, ovate, ovate-lanceolate, or lanceolate, gradually narrowed at the tip, entire, and stalked. The spike is terminal, with a flattened, fleshy floral axis in the shape of a cockscomb, yellow, white, or red-purple, with a velvety sheen. The flowering period is July to October. The utricle is ovate and circumscissile, containing 4 seeds. The seeds are black and glossy, with a thousand-grain weight of 0.85 grams. Used for flowerbeds and flower borders, and also suitable for potting; it is also fairly good as a cut flower, with vase life reaching more than 10 days.
Cockscomb has four types, namely hen-and-chickens cockscomb, common cockscomb, garden plume cockscomb, and foxtail cockscomb. In addition, there are many cultivars. Divided by plant height, there are dwarf types (20 to 30 cm), medium-stem types (40 to 60 cm), and tall-stem types (above 60 cm); divided by flowering period, there are early-flowering and late-flowering differences. The colors range from extremely pale yellow (nearly white) to golden yellow and brownish yellow, and from jade red, rose red, and orange-red to purple-red, and there are also mixed colors such as sprinkled gold and erqiao, with yellow and red lines intermixed.
Cockscomb is native to India. It likes hot, dry climates and fears waterlogging. It grows well in sunny, fertile sandy soil, dislikes sticky soil, and grows poorly in barren, poorly aerated soil, with smaller inflorescences. It can self-sow and propagate.
Propagation by sowing: sow in spring from March to April in an open-field seedbed. When sowing, do not cover with soil; after covering with straw, water, and keep the soil moist. After germination, remove the covering straw. Transplant when there are 2 leaves. When the seedlings grow to 5 to 10 cm, plant them out or pot them up. Do not fertilize at the seedling stage, otherwise the side branches grow vigorously and affect main branch development. After the comb has formed, apply thin fertilizer to promote growth. Seeds easily vary, so seed selection must be careful every year when saving seed.
Cockscomb flowering time can be adjusted by controlling the sowing period. Generally, sowing can be done from March to June, and sowing according to the need for flowers can meet the demand for holiday flowers.
Growth habits: It likes a warm, dry climate, fears drought, likes sunlight, and cannot tolerate waterlogging, but is not strict about soil. It can generally be grown in ordinary soil courtyards, and is currently a new way to develop courtyard economies; people with insight may want to give it a try.
Propagation and cultivation: By the seed propagation method, select a good plot around Qingming, apply plenty of base fertilizer, plow fine and harrow evenly, level and make beds, scatter the seeds evenly over the bed surface, cover the seeds only lightly, firm the soil and water thoroughly. Generally, at a temperature of 15 to 20 degrees, seedlings emerge in 10 to 15 days. For summer sowing after Mangzhong, sow at a row spacing of 30 cm; when the seedlings are 6 cm tall, thin them to a plant spacing of 20 cm. The thinned seedlings can be transplanted to other fields, and after transplanting they must be watered. At the seedling stage, be sure to weed and loosen the soil, and when it is not too dry, water as little as possible. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, apply 1 topdressing. After the rows close, appropriately remove old leaves. When flowering and heading, if the weather is dry, water appropriately; in the rainy season, strictly prevent water accumulation in low-lying areas. After heading, the flower buds in the leaf axils of the lower part can be removed to concentrate nutrients on the growth of the top main spike.
Pest and disease control: If root rot occurs at the seedling stage, quicklime can be broadcast over the field. During the growing period, the small owlet moth is likely to occur; spraying the leaf surface with dimethoate or pyrethroid pesticides can provide control.
Harvesting and processing: Generally around White Dew, when the seeds gradually turn black and mature, the flower stalks can be cut off in time and placed in a ventilated place to dry. When drying, take them out early and bring them in late, and do not let them be exposed to night dew, so they do not deteriorate and lose medicinal effectiveness, then bag and store them.
6. Garden balsam
Garden balsam is also called fingernail grass, tuberous sword fern, jinfeng flower, and sajin flower. It is native to China and India, and can be planted in flower pots or flowerbeds. Garden balsam is an annual or biennial herbaceous plant, about 25 to 35 cm tall, with white, pink, orange-red, and copper-red flowers, and flower forms in single and double types. It is a very beautiful plant.
The suitable temperature for garden balsam germination is 22°C to 30°C; sowing period: March to April or September to October
The suitable growing temperature for garden balsam is 15°C to 32°C; flowering period: May to July and December to February.
I. Before planting:
Flower growth is closely related to various factors in the natural environment, among them temperature, light, moisture, and growing medium. Temperature is the most important factor affecting flower growth. If an air conditioner or heater is used indoors to regulate temperature, planting will not be affected by the season, but after emergence you must place the plants by a sunny window so they receive as much abundant sunlight as possible.
II. When planting:
Good, now get ready to start sowing. Before sowing, please confirm once again: are the conditions required for seed germination and growth present now?
III. Planting:
1. When planting, pay special attention that the surface of the flower seed can be covered with only a thin layer of soil at most, 1 to 3 times the diameter of the flower seed (as accurate as possible; feeling also matters). If the seed is buried too deep, germination becomes difficult.
2. Set the watering can to mist mode and spray an appropriate amount of water on it;
3. Cover the mouth of the flower pot with glass or plastic film to reduce water evaporation;
4. Place the flower pot in a dark place away from light, and remember to open it for 15 to 20 minutes every day for ventilation;
5. Flower seeds generally germinate in about 10 to 15 days. Be patient while waiting for germination; sometimes factors such as temperature changes affect the germination time, so please wait patiently.
IV. Sprouting:
1. The seeds have sprouted! At this point, wait until the first pair of leaves on the sprout opens symmetrically, then immediately remove the covering (glass plate, plastic film), and place it in a sunny spot, avoiding direct sunlight, watch for temperature changes, and do not overwater.
2. When the first pair of cotyledons has fully opened and turned green, gradually increase the time of exposure to direct sunlight.
3. When the first pair of true leaves grows, place it in all-day direct sunlight, pay attention to the dryness of the growing medium, and water appropriately; when the second pair of true leaves grows, it means you have passed the most difficult stage of growing. As long as you manage temperature and moisture well, garden balsam will grow strong and healthy.
V. Light:
1. If the plant lacks light, leggy growth often occurs, making the plant slender, thin and weak, and prone to lodging; the light duration should be increased.
2. Turn the flower pot as often as possible so that the branches and leaves receive sunlight from all angles and grow fully
VI. Care:
1. When the seedlings grow to nearly one inch, keep the robust plants and "move house" for the rest, that is, repot them
2. When repotting, be very careful not to damage the fibrous roots. When moving the seedling out, dig a hole of appropriate width and depth in the center of the flower pot, let its root system spread fully, cover with growing medium, press lightly, and then water appropriately.
VII. Watering:
1. During sprouting, keep the soil moist. After sprouting, keep it somewhat drier, so that the surface soil is dry while the interior remains moist, which is better;
2. Water in the morning as much as possible, avoiding sunlight
3. It is best to let the water sit for 4 to 6 minutes first, to dissipate the chlorine in tap water
4. When watering, it is best to use a fine-holed pot, starting from a place away from the plant and gradually moving closer to the plant, watering more around the edges and less near the plant, and try not to splash it on the leaves and stems.
7. Lily
Lily is a perennial root-vegetable crop; its main edible part is the bulb. Besides being used as a vegetable, processed products are also widely used in medicine and health foods.
Ziyuan County has a long history of growing lilies, but due to long-term mixed cultivars and extensive cultivation management, unit yields are relatively low. To achieve better economic benefits from growing lilies, great effort must be put into cultivation.
1. Site selection: It is best to choose acidic sandy loam with abundant light, deep soil, convenient drainage and irrigation, and a pH of 5.7 to 6.3. The previous crop is best a legume or grass plant, and crop rotation should be used; continuous cropping is not suitable.
2. Choose good cultivars: There are many lily cultivars, mainly Longya lily, Yixing lily, and Lanzhou lily. Ziyuan County mostly uses Longya lily, which has large bulbs, good quality, strong stress resistance, vigorous growth, and high yield. Generally, small bulbs (single fruit weight 30 to 50 g) are used for propagation. Lily bulbs easily carry disease, so healthy bulbs without rotten bottoms, disease spots, or mechanical damage must be selected as seed to ensure neat emergence and less disease; planted in the current year, they can be harvested the following year. If the seed source is insufficient, scale propagation can also be used, but it must be planted continuously for three years before harvest. Seeds are collected in July, stored in sand to after-ripen, and sown from late August to September.
3. Land preparation and sowing: Before planting, in August broadcast about 100 kg of lime per mu, deep plow the soil two to three times, then apply 30 to 40 kg per mu of potassium sulfate three-element compound fertilizer, prepare the land and make beds. The bed surface is about 1 m wide and the bed height is 20 to 30 cm, so that no water accumulates. Then open furrows for planting, and apply decomposed chopped cattle pen manure, chicken manure, burnt soil ash, tung oil cake, and other organic fertilizers at the bottom of the furrow, 1200 to 1500 kg per mu, cover with a thin layer of soil, then plant; the seed bulbs must not touch the organic fertilizer. If rapeseed cake is used, the lilies turn yellow and the export grade is low; if pig manure is applied, pests are easily produced. The planting density is 30 x 20 cm, the seed quantity per mu is 125 to 150 kg, and the harvest amount one year after planting is 4 to 6 times the seed quantity.
4. Pest and disease control:
Disease control: The main diseases of lily are damping-off and root rot. Before planting, first soak the seeds in 300 times formalin for 5 minutes, then dry and sow. After emergence, use 80% mancozeb at 1000 times, or 25% carbendazim at 1000 times, or 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 600 to 800 times, rotating among them once every 7 to 10 days, and spray 2 to 3 times in succession.
Insect control: For underground pests, use 50% phoxim emulsion or 50% dexon mixed into poisonous soil and spread evenly into the planting furrows; for aphids, use 10% imidacloprid wettable powder at 2000 times for spraying, once every 7 to 10 days.
5. Timely harvest: It can be harvested from July to August each year. Harvesting on a sunny day one week before Start of Autumn gives the highest yield; harvesting after the stems and leaves wither in autumn is also possible, but the dried-slice rate is low and the benefit is not as good as the former. At harvest, large bulbs can be sold fresh or processed into dried slices, and small bulbs below 50 g are kept whole as seed.
8. Bleeding heart
Bleeding heart is native to Hebei and the Northeast region of China. It likes a semi-shady environment with abundant scattered light, is relatively cold tolerant, and fears severe summer heat and high temperatures as well as strong direct sunlight. Therefore, it is best placed under a large tree in the courtyard, under a grape trellis, on the shady side of a tall building, or on an east- or north-facing balcony. During the summer dormancy period, place it in a well-ventilated shady spot where it cannot receive direct light, and often sprinkle water on the nearby ground to raise air humidity and lower temperature.
Ecological habits:
Cold tolerant, dislikes high temperatures, likes shady, humid environments and loose, fertile neutral soil; it grows poorly in sandy soil and clay soil. By midsummer the stems and leaves turn yellow and it enters dormancy. It goes dormant in hot summers. It cannot tolerate drought, and likes moist, well-drained fertile sandy loam. It grows poorly in sandy soil and clay soil. It dislikes direct sunlight. The flowering period is April to June. It sprouts relatively early in spring, and after flowering until summer the stems and leaves gradually yellow and it goes dormant.
Bleeding heart propagation:
For propagation and cultivation, division, cuttings, and sowing can all be used.
Bleeding heart division propagation method.
It is best done in early spring in February after the buds begin to swell and before new leaves grow. When dividing, dig up the whole plant, shake off the soil from the roots, then use a knife to cut off the tender rhizomes around the main rhizome together with roots, dividing them into 2 to 3 plants, and plant them in a prepared seedbed, covering with 2 to 3 cm of soil, watering thoroughly, and placing in a shady spot. Division can also be done after the plant enters dormancy in autumn, in a way similar to early spring division. Timing must be right; if the old plant's new leaves have already opened before division, the root system is easily damaged and the survival rate is low. Division can also be done during deep autumn dormancy, but the survival rate is not high. It can only be divided once every 2 or 3 years, not every year.
The commonly used method is division. Before sprouting in March, dig out the underground part, remove old roots and rotten roots, and separate the rhizomes naturally along the segments, with each piece bearing 3 to 5 buds, then replant; it can bloom in May of the same year. In spring, break off basal shoots for cuttings, and roots form in about 1 month. For seed propagation, seedlings must be grown for 3 years before they can flower.
Bleeding heart cutting propagation method
Cutting medium: Choose loose, well-drained sandy loam rich in humus as the medium, with a pH between 5 and 6. Before use, it is best to disinfect it with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution.
Cutting time: Carry out from June to July each year. At this time there is more rain, and the soil temperature and air temperature are also more suitable, so the cutting survival rate is high.
For softwood cuttings, in June and July, after all the flowers have faded, select branches that are fully grown and have relatively plump axillary buds, cut off the inflorescence, and after 7 to 10 days cut the robust lower branches with axillary buds into sections of 2 to 3 nodes, each about 10 to 15 cm long, keeping one leaf at the upper end and thinning out some small leaves. Insert 2 nodes into the soil, with the upper node and its small leaves exposed above the soil surface, at a plant and row spacing of 10 cm x 10 cm.
Dip the cut end in sulfur powder or plant ash, insert into plain soil, water, and place in a shady spot. Frequently spray water on the cuttings, but restrict watering of the potting soil; slightly moist and not dry is enough. Roots form in about a month, and the following spring they can be potted with soil for final planting. With good management, they can flower in the same year. The insertion depth is 1/3 of the branch length. The cutting bed can use sandy loam or sandy soil, but fertilizer must absolutely not be applied. After cutting, water thoroughly and shade; generally roots form in 30 to 40 days.
Management after cutting:
After cutting, water thoroughly once with a fine-holed watering pot so the cuttings make close contact with the medium. Build a low arch tunnel over the bed, cover with plastic film, and cover with straw curtains to create a semi-shady environment. Keep the temperature at around 25°C; when too high, ventilate appropriately to cool it down, and always keep the bed soil moist. Roots form in about 40 days; gradually remove the tunnel film and straw curtains, and the following spring they can be transplanted for final planting, flowering in the same year.
Plant in March to April; cuttings are mostly taken in late March, and sowing is mostly in autumn. Field-planted bleeding heart needs covering for insulation in winter. Potted plants are mostly divided and replanted or repotted around late March. In hot summers, place in a semi-shady spot, and in the rainy season be careful to prevent water accumulation in the pot.
Or cut the rhizome into sections for propagation. In autumn, dig out the underground part and separate the rhizomes naturally along the segments, planting them separately. Alternatively, cut the rhizome into sections, each with a bud eye, insert them into sand, and after rooting, plant them in pots. For seed propagation, seedlings must be grown for 3 years before they can flower.
Bleeding heart sowing propagation method.
When the seeds mature in late June, harvest them in time. Cut off the inflorescence and dry it in the sun, winnow the seeds clean, then immediately scatter-sow them in a seedbed, water thoroughly, and seedlings emerge in about 15 days. Cover in winter to keep the seedlings alive through the winter. The following spring, plant out the robust seedlings, with a plant and row spacing of 30 to 50 cm being suitable. Sown seedlings take 3 years to flower.
Home growers generally do not use this; garden departments use it for mass propagation or for breeding new hybrid cultivars.
Bleeding heart cultivation
For field planting, choose a place with relatively high terrain. Before planting, deeply turn the bed soil and apply decomposed organic fertilizer; during the growing period, topdress in combination with irrigation. In summer, when temperatures are high and the stems and leaves turn yellow and enter dormancy, the dead branches can be cut away. Before Frost's Descent, water thoroughly once to help prevent cold damage. For pot cultivation, use light growing medium with added fertilizer for potting, water thoroughly after planting, and place in a sunny spot for care; during the growing period, provide plenty of fertilizer and water. During flowering, move it less, so fallen flowers do not affect its ornamental value; after flowering, if seed is not needed, promptly cut off the spent flowers.
Bleeding heart management
Bleeding heart is cold tolerant and likes shade, and cannot tolerate high temperatures. It grows well planted in loam rich in humus, and should generally be watered once a week. During bud formation, apply decomposed fertilizer water 1 to 2 times; do not water too much, keeping it moist is enough. During the growing period, apply diluted aged urine at 5 times water once every 2 to 3 weeks. If directly sown in a flowerbed, thin when there are 5 leaves, to a plant spacing of 30 cm. In March of the following year, apply diluted aged urine at 3 times water once more, and wait for it to bloom. In July, cut off the black fruit, dry it in the sun, thresh, and collect the seed
Bleeding heart pests and diseases
For scale insects, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution for control; leaf spot sometimes occurs, and can be controlled by spraying with 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution.
For leaf spot, spray with 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution. For pest damage, there is damage by scale insects; spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution for control.
9. Daylily
The large-flowered daylily is a perennial herbaceous plant in the genus Hemerocallis, family Liliaceae. It is native to China, Japan, and Eurasia, and is now widely cultivated around the world. It is an excellent perennial garden flower.
The large-flowered daylily has strong drought resistance, tolerates high temperatures, resists low cold, and adapts to a wide temperature range; it can be planted from south to north in our country. It has strong disease resistance and wide adaptability to soil. Apart from overly acidic, overly alkaline, overly sandy, or overly sticky soil, it can generally be cultivated, with a pH between 6.5 and 7.5 being best.
Propagation methods
Dividing daylily clumps is the most commonly used propagation method. This method is simple to perform, the plants survive easily, and growth is relatively uniform. For division, the entire mother clump can be dug out and replanted separately; or part of the plants can be dug out from one side of the mother clump as stock, while the remainder continues to grow.
Division is mostly done before sprouting in spring or after leaf fall in autumn. If divided and transplanted in spring, it can send up scapes and flower in the same year; if divided and transplanted in autumn, it can only send up scapes and flower the following year. When transplanting, choose plants that grow vigorously, have many buds, good quality, and no pests or diseases.
When dividing, dig out part of the clump's tillers as stock; the dug portion must bear roots. Cut it apart at the shortened stem, remove old roots, decayed roots, and diseased roots, retain as many fleshy roots as possible, shorten them appropriately (leaving about 10 cm), and then plant. Planting should be done on a sunny day, digging seedlings, dividing seedlings, and planting seedlings as you go, injuring the roots as little as possible, so recovery is fast. Generally divide once every 2 to 3 years to ensure the plant's vigorous growth.
Sowing is a method for rapidly producing large quantities of seedlings, but because the seed germination rate is low, the seeds must first be soaked to germinate, and they can only be planted out one year after sowing. The seed collection period begins around September each year; plants must be vigorous, with plump fruit and free of pests and diseases. Sowing takes place in the spring of the following year.
The seedbed should first be given plenty of base fertilizer, with a bed width of 1.3 to 1.7 m and a length of about 30 m, with drainage ditches dug on both sides. When sowing, open shallow furrows about 3 cm deep every 20 cm, sow the seeds evenly into the furrows, cover with a layer of fine soil, then spread a thin layer of fine sand. Before emergence, water and weed, keeping the soil moisture good, and by autumn the seedlings can be lifted and planted out. Each mu of seedbed uses 2.5 kg of seed and can raise 50,000 to 60,000 seedlings.
The seeds can also be soaked to promote germination and then sown and raised in the open field, with a sowing rate of 5 to 7 kg per mu, using flat-ground drilling. Open furrows at a row spacing of 30 cm, about 3 cm deep, and sow one seed every 3 to 5 cm; after the plants grow 2 to 3 leaves, apply one application of dilute human and animal manure. Use a small arched shed for winter protection against the cold, strengthen field management after spring begins, and transplanting can be done in August. Seeds collected from the evergreen daylily can be sown directly, or stored at room temperature and then sown.
Division of buds and flower buds refers to the small plants on the flower stems of the large-flowered daylily. The flower buds can be cut from the flower stems, and if they are relatively large, they can be further divided before planting. After transplanting, the flower buds can take root within one week. Rooted flower buds can be used to propagate plants, increasing the number planted and ultimately improving economic returns.
Tissue culture uses young leaves, filaments, flower stalks and other organs to cultivate plants. The method is to first induce the young organs to produce callus tissue, then use a suitable culture medium under appropriate conditions of temperature, humidity, light and air to cultivate them into young plantlets. The plantlets are then temporarily planted in nutrient pots, and after a period of cultivation become seedlings, after which they are planted out. However, this method has not yet been widely accepted.
In addition to the four methods introduced above, other methods can also be used to propagate the large-flowered daylily. Individual clonal plants can be divided into thin slices with growth points and root systems, and after about 6 months of planting they can be divided again. When dividing, these plants must not be smaller than 1/4 of the original plant. Another method is to cut the top of the corolla and use plant growth regulators to strengthen the vitality of the cut plants, carry out in vitro culture to promote rooting, and then plant them.
Planting
Large-flowered daylilies are mostly planted in early spring in early March before budding. Although the large-flowered daylily is not strict about soil, since it can grow for many years after planting, attention should be paid to the choice of planting site. It is best to use flat land with a low groundwater table or sloping land with good water sources and irrigation conditions, with good drainage, loose soil and deep soil layers. Newly opened wasteland must have the soil fully weathered, or organic fertilizer applied to increase its organic matter content. The land must be leveled; because the large-flowered daylily has strong tillering ability, the plant and row spacing must be kept at 40 to 50 cm when planting. Dig holes for planting, with the holes in a triangular arrangement, planting 3 to 5 plants. Planting should not be too deep or too shallow; too deep and tillering is slow, too shallow and tillering is fast but the plants mostly grow spindly. Generally, the planting hole is more than 30 cm deep, base fertilizer is applied up to 15 to 20 cm from the ground surface, and after planting the soil is covered and compacted. Apply 500 to 600 kg per mu of human and animal manure mixed with water as a spot application to settle the seedlings and ensure the survival rate.
Management
Fertilization: The large-flowered daylily has a long flowering period and a relatively large demand for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. In addition to applying sufficient base fertilizer at planting (well-rotted cow manure or pig manure is suitable), fertilizer should also be applied according to the needs of different developmental stages. When nitrogen is sufficient, it can promote vigorous plant growth and enlarge the leaves. Phosphorus can promote root growth, enhance tillering ability, help the transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth, enhance bud formation ability, and promote drought resistance, cold resistance and disease resistance, improving quality. When potassium supply is sufficient, the plant tissues are tough, growth is vigorous, and disease resistance is strong; in the middle and late stages it can make the flower scapes emerge neat and sturdy, the flower buds develop plump, and bud formation ability is enhanced. Therefore, fertilizer should be applied twice before and during the flowering period, each time mainly with quick-acting fertilizer combined with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and nitrogen fertilizer must not be applied one-sidedly. A 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate spray can also be applied to promote larger flowers and can achieve the effect of extending the flowering period.
Irrigation: The large-flowered daylily has relatively strong drought resistance and does not need much water during the vegetative growth period, so irrigation should be based on the water requirements of the daylily at each growth and development stage, combined with local climate, soil and water source conditions. After new seedlings are transplanted, the soil water-holding capacity must be maintained at 70% to 80%, and they should be watered promptly in drought. During the seedling stage the plants are small and their water requirement is also small. From the start of reproductive growth, the water requirement gradually increases; if water is lacking at this time, growth will be affected. During the flower bud stage the soil must be kept moist at all times to prevent the flower buds from dropping due to drought, generally watering once every week. Watering should be thorough and even, preferably in the morning and evening. In July and August there is a lot of rain, so drainage and waterlogging prevention are needed. Before winter begins, winter irrigation should be applied to ensure early sprouting the following year.
Weeding: After planting out, during the seedling stage, timely intertillage and weeding should be carried out. During the seedling stage, intertillage should be shallow rather than deep, and as the seedlings age, the intertillage should be deepened. Before the spring shoots emerge, carry out one shallow loosening of the soil, and after emergence carry out timely shallow hoeing 3 to 4 times, which can achieve the dual purpose of weeding and drought prevention. Intertillage and weeding should be carried out when the soil moisture is moderate, and can be stopped once the leaf clusters cover the ground. Remove weeds from the daylily field in time; if weeds grow in profusion they can easily trigger pests and diseases, affecting the growth and appearance of the daylily.
Weeding can be done either by traditional manual weeding or by using herbicides suitable for the large-flowered daylily. Sethoxydim, also known as Nabu, is a selective pre-emergence stem-and-leaf treatment agent that can control grassy weeds such as barnyardgrass, wild oat, foxtail, goosegrass and bermudagrass; penoxalin, also known as pendimethalin, is a selective pre-emergence soil treatment agent with very good pre-emergence control of annual narrow-leaved weeds and certain broad-leaved weeds, such as annual grassy weeds including crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, shortawn foxtail and bluegrass, and broad-leaved weeds including lamb's quarters, amaranth, chickweed, carpetweed and shepherd's purse; metolachlor, also known as dual, is a selective pre-emergence dryland soil treatment agent used to control annual grassy weeds such as barnyardgrass, crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail and lovegrass, and also controls some small-seeded broad-leaved weeds such as amaranth, purslane, shepherd's purse, carpetweed and chickweed, as well as rice flatsedge, with poor control of perennial weeds and most broad-leaved weeds; fluazifop-butyl is a post-emergence stem-and-leaf treatment herbicide with good control of annual and perennial grassy weeds, but ineffective against broad-leaved weeds and sedges. In addition there are Surflan, Snapshot and others, all of which can be used to control weeds in large-flowered daylily fields.
Pest and disease control: Rust, leaf spot and leaf blight are diseases to which daylilies are highly prone. Rust is a fungal disease and is the main disease of daylilies in the middle and late stages; it begins to occur in early May, is most severe from June to July, and does not gradually stop until after October, damaging leaves and flower stalks. The leaves first produce a small number of yellow powdery spots, which then gradually spread to the whole leaf, until the entire plant dies. When the disease occurs, fungicides such as triadimefon and sodium dimethyldithiocarbamate can be sprayed for control. Leaf spot is caused by fungi of the genus Fusarium and is the main disease of daylilies during the seedling stage; it begins to occur from late March to early April, and the peak incidence is from mid-to-late April to mid-to-late May. It often occurs in the middle of both sides of the leaf midrib; after perforation it interrupts the transport of water and nutrients, the leaf tip first turns yellow and withers, and finally the whole leaf wilts and dies. Bordeaux mixture or lime sulfur mixture can be sprayed for control.;
Leaf blight is caused by the pathogenic fungus of the genus Colletotrichum and is a seedling-stage disease that occurs after leaf spot. It generally begins to occur in early May, is most severe in early to mid-June, and mainly damages leaves, but also damages flower stalks. It occurs from the seedling stage onward; water-soaked small spots first appear at the middle edge of the leaf, then gradually spread upward and downward, forming brown streaks, finally turning grayish white, and in severe cases the whole leaf dies. It can be controlled by spraying 600 to 800 times dilution of 50% carbendazim, or by spraying Bordeaux mixture around Qingming.
The main insect pests of daylily are red spider mites and aphids. Red spider mites are tiny red insects resembling spiders that mainly pierce and suck sap on the underside of leaves, causing grayish-white small spots at the damaged areas. They can be controlled with 40% dimethoate emulsion, 20% clofentezine wettable powder and the like. Aphids mainly occur in May; they first damage the leaves, then pierce and suck sap on the flower buds, and the damaged flower buds are thin and small and easily drop. They can be controlled with lime sulfur mixture, 40% dimethoate emulsion, 25% malathion emulsion, tobacco lime water and the like. In addition, in trials on the propagation of the large-flowered daylily, it was found that from May to August snails cause relatively serious damage to the large-flowered daylily, and control measures should be taken in good time.
10. Amaryllis
Amaryllis, also known as belladonna lily, hundred-branch lotus and trumpet flower, is a plant of the genus Hippeastrum in the Amaryllidaceae family. The amaryllis flower stalk stands elegantly, with 4 to 6 vermilion trumpet-shaped flowers borne at the top, opening toward the sun, appearing especially gorgeous and pleasing. Because the amaryllis closely resembles the clivia in appearance, it also has the elegant name "gentleman's red." Tianjin calls it "rouge cave," which captures the idea quite well. It is now widely cultivated throughout the world; besides potted ornamental use, it is planted in open-field gardens to form community landscapes, adding to the garden scenery. In recent years, European and American horticulturists, to make it convenient for flower growers, have specially produced amaryllis as canned flowers. To date, production in Europe is relatively large; the main producing country, the Netherlands, reached 19.1 million US dollars in amaryllis sales output value in 1995, and Belgium, Germany, France and Spain all have certain production. In Asia, eastern India produces amaryllis bulbs, but the production facilities are backward and quality is poor. In our country, during the period from 1912 to 1949, Nanjing, Shanghai and other places already had potted ornamental amaryllis, and in the 1970s it began to be planted around open-field gardens in southern China as a landscape feature. In recent years, many fine varieties have been introduced from abroad across the country, many of them dwarf varieties suitable for potted ornamental use, creating conditions for the development and utilization of amaryllis.
Seed sowing and division propagation are commonly used.
Seed sowing propagation: Sow indoors in pots from May to June, with an optimum germination temperature of 18 to 22°C, and germination occurs about 20 days after sowing. Pay attention to fertilizer and water management during the seedling stage; when there are 3 to 4 true leaves, carry out the first transplanting, maintaining a certain plant spacing. It takes 3 to 4 years from sowing to flowering.
Division propagation: For potted amaryllis, carry out when repotting from February to March; before dividing and planting, first remove old roots and old soil, separate the small bulbs growing beside the mother bulb, and pot them separately according to bulb size; generally flowering bulbs have a circumference of 24 to 26 cm. When planting, 1/3 of the bulb is exposed above the soil surface. Plant in March, and they flower from April to May.
In recent years, scale cutting, scoring and tissue culture methods have been widely used abroad to propagate amaryllis.
Scale cutting propagation: Select well-developed, disease-free bulbs, peel off the overly mature outer scales, and keep the plump middle scales for propagation, but each scale must have a stem plate. In September, insert the scales into a sand bed, keep them moist at 18 to 20°C, and within that year small bulbs form and roots develop at the base. The following spring new shoots grow from the small bulbs, and they need to be cultivated for another 3 years to become flowering bulbs.
Scoring propagation: Select bulbs with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm, soak the bulbs in 1% copper sulfate solution for 5 minutes, wash with water, cut off 1/3 of the bulb, gently score the main bud in the center of the bulb with a knife, place flat on a sand bed, keep the room temperature at 18 to 22°C, and maintain relatively high air humidity; after 2 months several small bulbs form between the scales.
For potted amaryllis, use loose, fertile, slightly acidic leaf mold or peat soil. Flowering bulbs with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm need a 12 cm pot; for commercial cultivation, 18 to 20 cm pots are also used, planting 3 bulbs. The planting depth is based on 1/3 of the bulb being exposed above the potting soil. Water sparingly at first planting; when flower stalks or leaves appear, keep the potting soil moist. During the growing period, fertilize once every half month, and after the flower stalk emerges apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer once. After flowering, continue to supply water and fertilizer to promote plump, well-filled bulbs. In commercial production, amaryllis is often forced; using flowering bulbs pretreated at a low temperature of 5°C for 50 days, under conditions of a soil temperature of 21°C and a room temperature of 17 to 19°C, they flower 6 weeks after planting. According to trial reports, soaking the bulbs in indoleacetic acid can increase the weight and number of small bulbs. Soaking the bulbs in gibberellin (GA3) can increase bulb weight and enlarge flower diameter. Soaking in chlormequat (CCC) can increase the number of flowers. Spraying the amaryllis leaves with indoleacetic acid, gibberellin and chlormequat can likewise increase the number of small bulbs and flowers.
If amaryllis seeds are to be collected, artificial pollination should be carried out to increase the seed-setting rate. Because amaryllis seeds are flat and extremely thin and easily lose water and lose germination ability, they should be sown immediately after collection. If producing bulbs, promptly cut off the flower stalk after flowering to avoid consuming bulb nutrients. After leaves grow, strengthen fertilization to promote bulb enlargement and the production of new bulbs. Bulbs can be stored for 8 to 10 weeks at 13°C, and can be stored long-term at 5°C.
The main diseases are viral disease, leaf spot disease and nematode disease. Leaf spot damages leaves and flowers.
11. Peony
The peony is one of China's traditional famous flowers, with a cultivation history of more than 3,000 years. Peony flower forms are varied, the flower colors are gorgeous, the green leaves are elegant, and the plant clumps are full; used for landscaping and ornamental purposes, they can lead people into a breathtaking wonderland.
The peony is a perennial herbaceous flower of the Ranunculaceae family, with a plant height of about 1 m; the flowers are borne singly at the top of the current year's branches, and some are borne in the leaf axils at the top; the flower stalk is relatively long, the flowers are divided into single and double forms, and the flower colors include white, yellow, pink, purple, rose and many other colors.
The peony flower has strong cold resistance and can overwinter naturally in the open field in most areas of northern China. However, its heat resistance is relatively poor, and it stops growing in the hot summer. It likes sunlight, but can also grow and flower under light shade. It likes moisture, but fears waterlogging, and is suitable for growing in deep, fertile, well-drained sandy loam; low-lying saline-alkali land is not suitable for cultivation.
The peony is commonly propagated by division, and the best time for division is from late August to mid-September. The division method is to dig up clumps that are more than 3 years old, shake off the soil, and after drying in the shade until slightly wilted, take three or four buds as one plant, find the smallest natural connection point and cut it apart with a sharp knife, and coat the cut with charcoal powder to prevent rot. To promote new root germination, the fleshy roots can be retained at 15 cm in length and cut short. After division, plant as soon as possible.
The growth characteristics of the peony are rapid growth and flowering after budding in spring; after flowering it stops growing upward and the number of leaves no longer increases. At the end of autumn all aboveground stems and leaves die, and underground long spindle-shaped fleshy roots, having accumulated sufficient nutrients, lie deep in the soil; at the root crown there are dormant young buds, which break through the soil when spring returns to the earth the following year.
1. Land requirements:
A sandy soil with high terrain, dryness, good drainage, deep soil layers, and looseness and fertility should be selected. Before planting, sufficient base fertilizer should be applied; well-rotted cake fertilizer (200 kg/mu) or dried manure (1,500 kg/mu) is suitable, and only after deep plowing and leveling can planting proceed.
2. Planting time and specifications:
The suitable planting time is generally from late August (End of Heat) to late September (Autumnal Equinox); for planting density, generally for ornamental use 80 cm x 70 cm can be used, planting about 1,200 plants per mu, and for production use 60 cm x 50 cm can be used, planting about 2,200 plants per mu. When planting, the hole specifications are generally about 35 cm deep and about 20 cm in diameter, and the seedling depth is based on the buds being 3 cm below the ground surface; finally fill the hole with soil, tamp it firm and pile up a 10 cm mound of soil to prevent cold and preserve soil moisture and serve as a marker. After planting, depending on soil moisture, appropriate watering can be done for overwintering.
3. Field management:
(1) Intertillage and weeding: In the spring of the following year, before the peony buds, loosen and level the soil mound from the previous autumn; during the growing period, keep the soil loose and free of weeds, hoeing after rain and hoeing during long drought.
(2) Removing side buds: In addition to the bud produced at the top of the stem, the peony also produces 3 to 6 side buds in the leaf axils of the upper stem. If the side buds are removed early, nutrients can be concentrated so that the main bud's flower is large and full; if the side buds are kept, the flowers bloom abundantly and the ornamental period is long. This can be controlled independently according to need.
(3) Watering and topdressing: The peony has fleshy roots and a developed root system, with strong drought resistance, so generally no watering is needed; if there is a spring drought or a relatively long summer drought, water once or twice, preferably with unpolluted river water, and in winter, depending on the soil's dryness or moisture, one winter watering can also be given. The peony grows vigorously and has a large fertilizer requirement, and can be fertilized twice a year; before winter begins, some slow-release fertilizer can be applied, such as well-rotted cake fertilizer (150 kg/mu) or dried manure (1,500 kg/mu), and before or after flowering some quick-acting fertilizer can be applied, such as compound fertilizer or diammonium phosphate (10 to 15 kg/mu); foliar topdressing can also be combined with it, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate or trace-element fertilizer, sprayed once every 15 to 20 days.
4. Pest and disease control:
(1) Diseases: mainly leaf spot, including red spot and brown spot; the peak incidence is generally in the summer and autumn seasons with high temperature and high humidity. In the early stage of the disease, 800 times dilution of 40% carbendazim can be sprayed on the leaf surface for control, and in severe cases 500 times dilution of 40% carbendazim can be sprayed once every 15 days, and 2 to 3 times is enough for control.
(2) Insect pests: mainly white grubs and nematodes. For white grubs, during the peak period from July to August, 30% carbofuran (5 kg/mu) or 50% phoxim granules (3 kg/mu) or isofenphos-methyl liquid can be used, mixed with organic fertilizer or sand to form a poison bait, spread evenly, and then deep-hoed. Nematodes are root-knot nematodes, highly transmissible and relatively serious in harm to the peony; the symptoms are the appearance of nodules of different sizes on the fibrous roots, weak plant growth, yellowing, scorching and early dropping of leaf margins, and in severe cases the plant becomes shorter until it dies. For control, 30% carbofuran granules at 25 g per sq m can be used, evenly applied to the affected plot during the rainy summer period, then deep-hoed 5 to 10 cm. Because root-knot nematodes are aerobic lower animals that mainly live within the 5 to 20 cm soil layer, when applying the pesticide, it must absolutely not be too deep.
12. Chrysanthemum
The chrysanthemum is a short-day plant; in the long-day seasons of spring and summer, it can only carry out vegetative growth. Only after the Start of Autumn, as the weather turns cooler and the daylight hours shorten, can it begin flower bud differentiation, conceive flower buds, and bloom with gorgeous flowers through the frost.
The chrysanthemum has strong adaptability and is not strict about climate and soil conditions; it is cultivated everywhere in our country, and can grow in slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils. Small chrysanthemums have stronger cold resistance than large chrysanthemums, and their flowers do not wither after several severe frosts. At temperatures above 10°C dormant buds can sprout, and a temperature of 20 to 25°C is most suitable for growth. The chrysanthemum is drought-tolerant, fears waterlogging, and likes loose, fertile sandy soil rich in humus, a cool climate and sufficient sunlight.
Chrysanthemums can be propagated by many methods such as division, cutting, grafting and sowing. The grafting method and sowing method have high technical requirements and relatively cumbersome propagation processes, and without superb cutting and grafting skills and techniques such as selection of fine varieties and artificial pollination, it is very difficult to propagate successfully. These two propagation methods are also only used in nurseries when large quantities of seedlings are needed; for home chrysanthemum growing, division and cutting are generally mostly used for propagation.
1. Seed propagation: Before sowing, apply sufficient well-rotted organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, and deep-plow and finely harrow, making flat beds. Mix the seeds evenly with fine sand and broadcast, cover with fine soil about 0.5 cm thick, and after sowing cover with a shade net and water thoroughly. In early spring when it is cold, overcast and rainy, cover with plastic film to maintain soil moisture and temperature. Watering should be done with a fine spray to prevent the soil surface from crusting. After about 10 days the seedlings emerge; remove the shade net or plastic film, and when the seedlings have 2 to 3 leaves they can be transplanted to the field. Chrysanthemum greens can be sown directly; in southern China they can be sown in February, and in cold northern regions they can be sown only in early April, with a seeding rate of about 0.2 kg per mu.
2. Division propagation: In mid-to-late March, the old stubble of chrysanthemum greens can be dug out, exposing the root crown, and the side shoots that already have roots can be cut off together with old roots and transplanted to the field. Division propagation is more suitable when new shoots are sprouting.
3. Cutting propagation: Cutting propagation can be carried out throughout the growing season, with the highest survival rate for cuttings taken from April to June. The seedbed is best made with new soil mixed with composted and rotted organic fertilizer. Cut branches with 3 to 5 nodes and 8 to 10 cm in length, remove the basal leaves, and insert to a depth of 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length. After cutting, keep the bed moist and avoid waterlogging; shade is needed in the hot season, and when the temperature is relatively low a plastic film arched shed can be built to keep warm and retain moisture. Generally after 15 days they can be transplanted to the field.
Some people may like chrysanthemums in a vase, so here are a few tips for everyone:
1. Before putting chrysanthemums in a vase, first cut off the leaves on the lower part of the stem that may be immersed in water. Because chrysanthemums have a relatively long flowering period, up to 2 to 3 weeks, while the leaves quickly turn yellow; leaves immersed in water will compete with the flowers for nutrients and may also breed bacteria.
2. To make the chrysanthemum flowering period last, not only should the water be changed every day, but each time the water is changed, 1 inch should be cut off the stem base immersed in water, so that the water-absorbing channels remain unobstructed at all times.
3. Chrysanthemums also need certain nutrients in a vase. The simplest method is to put a vitamin tablet into the water, or add 1 teaspoon of white sugar. However, organic nutrients (such as white sugar) will provide a great possibility for bacterial reproduction, so at the same time 1 to 2 drops of bleaching liquid or a little bleach can be put into the water to effectively control bacterial reproduction (the dosage of bleach should be increased or decreased as appropriate according to the amount of water, the number of flowers and the purity of the bleach).
13. Wax begonia
Wax begonia, also known as glass emerald and glass begonia, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Begonia in the Begoniaceae family. It likes well-drained sandy loam rich in humus, is not cold-tolerant, and fears exposure to strong sun and rain. The single leaves are alternate, ovate to long ovate, and the leaf colors include green, dark red and so on. The flower colors include bright red, pink, white and so on, and it flowers in all four seasons.
Seed sowing propagation can be done in all four seasons. First compact the potting soil and soak it through. Because the seeds are tiny, they should be mixed with fine sand, scattered evenly, and lightly covered with fine sand or not covered. Cover with a glass plate or film to retain moisture, and they will soon germinate. When the seedlings grow to 2 to 3 leaves, move them into pots, at which time dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied. When they grow to 4 to 6 cm tall, plant them out for normal management.
Cutting propagation: Cut 7 to 10 cm cuttings, dry them in the shade for 1 to 2 hours, keep half a leaf, and insert them into sandy soil. Keep the potting soil moist, and they will soon take root; this can be done in all four seasons.
Cultivation management: The potting soil should be well-drained sandy loam rich in humus. During the growing period, moderate moisture is required, and a composted dilute liquid fertilizer should be applied once every 1 to 2 weeks. The wax begonia likes light, but fears exposure to strong sunlight; light that is too strong easily makes the leaves curl and develop scorched spots, while insufficient light makes the plant grow spindly and affects flowering. The optimum growth temperature is 20°C, and the minimum temperature is 10°C; any lower and it is easily damaged by cold. In the high-temperature summer season it is in a semi-dormant state, and should be placed in a well-ventilated shaded place, at which time fertilization should be stopped. To make the plant shape full, pinch the growing tips multiple times during the growing period, and at the same time apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. After 1 to 2 years of cultivation, the wax begonia appears aged, and can be heavily pruned from the base to promote new shoots, and after pinching treatment, it can recover its former luxuriant posture. Repot once each year, removing old roots and necrotic roots.
14. Fuchsia
Fuchsia, also known as hanging-bell begonia and lantern begonia, is an evergreen subshrub of the genus Fuchsia in the Onagraceae family. The flowers are borne singly in the leaf axils at the branch tips, with a long stalk; the calyx tube is bell-shaped or tubular, often hanging downward. The flower colors include pink, purple-red, apricot yellow, white and so on, and it flowers in all four seasons, most profusely in spring and autumn. There are many fuchsia varieties, with different plant shapes and flower forms.
The fuchsia is native to South America and likes a mild, cool and humid environment; its optimum growth temperature is 10°C to 15°C. In summer it fears strong direct sunlight and high temperatures; in winter it fears cold below 5°C. No wonder it is called the "delicate lady among flowers." Its fertilizer and water requirements differ according to the season; spring and autumn require relatively large amounts, and in the hot summer season the fuchsia is in a semi-dormant state, so watering must be controlled to avoid root rot and death. Ventilation and cooling measures should be taken, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently, and the plant should be placed under a shade shed to ensure it survives the summer safely. After the weather cools in autumn it revives; strengthen fertilizer and water management, pinch and shape in good time, and promote side branches. Generally it can flower two to three weeks after pinching, so pinching is also often used to control the flowering period. The potting soil should preferably be fertile, loose, well-drained sandy loam, and it can tolerate weak alkalinity.
After flowering, the fuchsia sets fruit with difficulty, so cutting propagation is usually mostly used; it can be done throughout the year, but spring is suitable. One-year-old young branches survive most easily; select healthy, plump top branches with three or four nodes, 5 cm to 10 cm long, keep the upper 3 small leaves, and insert them into sandy soil to a depth of one node; keep the temperature at 15°C to 20°C; spray water once a day to maintain air humidity, and they will root after two weeks. The seedlings should be potted in prepared soil in good time, and pinched in good time to promote side branches. Old plants should be repotted every spring, heavily pruned in combination with propagation, and the old roots around them cut off to rejuvenate the plant. Cutting in spring has an advantage, namely that the seedlings have relatively strong heat resistance and mostly do not lose leaves during the dog days. Cuttings taken before the dog days flower after autumn, hence the saying "raise the young, not the old." If the plant shows leaf loss in summer, generally after the Start of Autumn it should be cut back immediately to promote new branches, and liquid fertilizer applied, and it can flower in autumn.
15. Clivia
Clivia has vigorous vitality and is easy to cultivate, but to grow it well, the correct cultivation method is indispensable. For a good clivia, growing skill and the plant itself can be split 30-70, which shows the importance of cultivation techniques. Only by understanding the growth habits of clivia can one explore and summarize the correct cultivation techniques, and then growing clivia can be done with ease and with twice the result for half the effort; the clivia grown will then be pleasing to the eye. The growth of clivia is greatly affected by water, soil, fertilizer, light, temperature and humidity factors. Let me discuss my views on these six aspects:
1. Water: As everyone knows, plant growth cannot be separated from water; the absorption of nutrients and all physiological activities must depend on water, but different plants have different requirements for water, and the water quality in different places is also different. The clivia's requirements for water are as follows:
The pH of water: Clivia likes neutral or slightly acidic water, with a pH value of about 6.5. The water pH varies from place to place; if it is not neutral or slightly acidic water, improvement should be considered. For example, alkaline water can be neutralized with rice-washing water.
Water quality: Tap water, river water, lake water and so on differ in water quality from one another; clean water rich in minerals is best. Tap water has been treated by the artificial addition of chemicals, and usually should be stored for a few days before being used to water flowers.
Water content in the soil: The suitable water content should be 20% to 40%, preferably neither dry nor wet. If the water content in the soil is too high for a long time, the air permeability in the soil will worsen, easily causing root rot; conversely, if the water content is too low, it will cause dehydration, leading to the roots shriveling and withering.
Watering method: The principle of watering is not to water when not dry, and to water thoroughly when watering. The practice of giving a little water at a time, like a dragonfly skimming the water, is extremely harmful. The "dry" mentioned here does not mean dry to the point of no water, but rather that the water content in the soil has become relatively low, which is the time to water. People who grow clivia often tap the flower pot with their fingers and judge the water content in the soil by the sound produced by the tapping. If the sound produced by tapping is dull, it indicates that the water content in the soil is relatively high and there is no need to water; conversely, if the sound is crisp, it indicates that the water content in the soil is relatively low and watering should be done immediately. The reason the dragonfly-skimming practice is extremely harmful is that most of the small amount of water is absorbed by the soil or flows away directly along the channels formed in the soil, and very little is absorbed by the root system, almost equivalent to not watering at all.;
In addition, when watering, note that the water temperature and soil temperature should be close, and the temperature difference between the two should not be too large; the watering time is preferably in the morning and evening; at noon in summer, when the temperature is very high, watering is not suitable; watering should avoid the flower heart, especially during the period when the scape is emerging and flowering, to prevent unclean water from causing heart rot.
2. Soil: The roots of clivia are fleshy roots, suitable for growing in loose, fertile soil with good water permeability and air permeability, so the choice of cultivation soil should strictly consider these four factors.
Soil quality: Humus soil meets the above four requirements and is the first choice for growing clivia. The humus soil is best made from oak leaves (oak tree leaves); leaves of other trees such as larch, hazel, pear and apple can also be used, but attention should be paid to pesticide factors. Walnut tree leaves are toxic and cannot be used. High-quality humus soil should be moderately rotted tree leaves, with a rotting degree of about 50 percent; a high rotting degree is not good, as water permeability and air permeability are poor.
To further improve the structure of the humus soil and increase water permeability and air permeability, some larch pine needles, carbon made from burned rice husks (not ash), washed river sand, and furnace cinder can also be added, in a proportion of 10% to 20%. Compacted, barren ordinary soil is not suitable for growing clivia, and will seriously affect the normal growth of clivia.
In addition, the soil pH differs in different regions, so neutral or slightly acidic soil should be selected, with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.
3. Fertilizer: As the saying goes, "For a crop to bloom, it all depends on fertilizer as the master." Fertilizer is an indispensable important nutrient source for the vigorous growth of clivia; clivia is a fertilizer-loving flower, and mature clivia must have sufficient fertility.
Fertilizing clivia should be determined according to the size, variety, growth and development situation and season of the clivia. Applying too much or too little fertilizer is not conducive to the growth of clivia. Too much will cause root burn, and the leaves will wrinkle or become stunted; too little leads to a lack of nutrients, and the clivia grows slowly, with the leaves obviously becoming narrower, soft and not upright.
Types and uses of fertilizer: Fertilizers are divided into solid fertilizer and liquid fertilizer.
Solid fertilizer: Castor seeds, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, perilla seeds and the like, after being roasted, with a small amount of bone meal added, make a very good solid fertilizer. Solid fertilizer is usually used as base fertilizer (bottom fertilizer and waist fertilizer), applied twice a year (April to May in spring, September to October in autumn), but it must not touch the roots, to avoid causing root burn.
Liquid fertilizer: Sesame, peanuts, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, freshwater fish (with internal organs removed) and the like, after full fermentation, make a good liquid fertilizer. Liquid fertilizer, used as a topdressing, has a quick fertilizer effect but short fertilizer duration, and can be applied once every half month. The application of liquid fertilizer should follow the principle of low concentration and small amounts applied many times, to prevent too much fertilizer from burning the roots. In spring and autumn, when clivia grows vigorously, liquid fertilizer should be applied to provide sufficient nutrients. When applying liquid fertilizer, prevent it from dripping onto the clivia leaves or heart, to avoid leaf rot or heart rot; after each fertilization, use a spray bottle to spray clean water to rinse the clivia leaves or heart.
What has been discussed above is all organic fertilizer; inorganic fertilizer can also be used, and takes effect even faster. Clivia growth stresses nutritional balance, requiring not only the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium we are familiar with, but also various trace elements. A serious deficiency of any one element will have adverse effects on the normal growth of clivia. This is also the reason people have long mostly used organic fertilizer.
4. Light: Light is an indispensable element for the photosynthesis of clivia. Sufficient light is needed; when growing clivia indoors it should be placed on a windowsill to ensure sufficient light. It is not tolerant of strong light and likes weak light (dappled light); in summer when the light is strong, shading treatment is needed to prevent burning the leaves. Clivia leaves have a strong phototropism; regularly adjust the light-facing angle to make the plant shape neat, and if conditions permit, the direction of leaf extension should be consistent with the north-south direction.
Clivia leaves should be kept clean; often wipe dust off the leaves with a soft damp cloth, which is beneficial to photosynthesis.
5. Temperature: The suitable temperature for clivia growth is 15°C to 25°C, neither cold nor hot.
In summer, when the temperature is above 25°C, measures such as ventilation and shading should be taken to lower the temperature; above 30°C and with low humidity, the leaf luster will diminish; high temperature with plenty of water will make the leaves grow too long, and high temperature may even cause high-fever disease, leading the whole plant to rot.
Below 10°C growth and development become slow; below 5°C growth is inhibited; below 0°C the leaves will freeze and be damaged or die.
6. Humidity: Clivia likes a warm and humid environment; low environmental humidity will affect the luster of the leaves; dry air and wind and sun in the open field will cause the leaves to lose their delicate luster, becoming rough and dull in color. People have found that clivia cultivated in flower cellars is delicate, succulent and glossy, while clivia grown on windowsills cannot achieve this effect; this is the reason. The solution is to try to create a small environment similar to a flower cellar on the balcony.
To grow clivia well in summer, one should achieve the "six preventions" and "six don'ts."
1. Prevent direct sunlight, don't expose to strong sun. In summer, clivia should be shielded from strong light all day. Using the oblique sunlight for a while in the early morning each day is enough to satisfy photosynthesis.
2. Prevent high temperature, don't let it dry out. The suitable temperature for clivia in summer is 18°C to 25°C; placing it in an air-conditioned room is best, and a shaded, ventilated spot on the balcony is also acceptable. When watering, it is best to use tap water that has been sunned for two or three days, watering once after 6 o'clock every afternoon, and do not let the potting soil become too dry or too wet.
3. Prevent spindly growth, don't fertilize. Summer is the dormancy period of clivia; stop fertilizing, water moderately, and controlling humidity is an effective measure. If too much fertilizer has been applied to the potting soil or the fertilizer effect is relatively strong, pour out the upper part of the soil in the flower pot, mix in 1/3 to 2/3 sand, mix well and put it back into the pot, which not only reduces the fertilizer effect but also has a cooling effect.
4. Prevent dust pollution, don't water with dirty water. Clivia leaf surfaces should be kept clean; once a week, dip fine gauze in clean water, wring it dry and gently wipe once. Watering with dirty water will cause roots and leaves to rot and turn yellow.
5. Prevent soil compaction, don't use clay (loess) in the pot. Clivia is suitable for cultivation in loose, air-permeable, water-permeable, fertile humus soil with a pH value of about 7.0.
6. Prevent disease, don't let it get infected. When changing soil or wiping leaves, the movements should be gentle, to prevent roots and leaves from being broken and exuding sap, which triggers infection and causes rot.
16. Cyclamen
The cyclamen is native to the southeastern coast of the Mediterranean, from the coastal low-mountain forest zones of Israel and Jordan to Greece. It is now widely cultivated throughout the world. The cyclamen likes a cool, humid environment with sufficient light. The optimum growth temperature is 15 to 20°C; below 10°C the growth vigor weakens, the flower color becomes dull, and it easily withers; when the temperature reaches above 30°C, the plant enters dormancy, and in the hot summer regions of our country, cyclamens are at that time in a dormant or semi-dormant state; while in the Kunming area of Yunnan Province, where it is like spring all year round, the summer is cool and humid, so it does not go dormant and continues normal growth. When the temperature exceeds 35°C, the plant is very easily harmed and rots to death. During the seedling stage it has relatively strong resistance to high temperature. During the growing period the relative humidity should preferably be 70% to 75%. The cyclamen is neutral to day length, and temperature is the main environmental factor affecting flower bud differentiation. The optimum temperature for flower bud differentiation is 15 to 18°C. During the growing period the required light intensity is 28,000 to 36,000 Lx; if it is higher than 45,000 Lx or lower than 15,000 Lx, the photosynthesis intensity drops significantly. However, it is also not tolerant of strong sunlight in summer, and should be cultivated under a shade shed. It often self-pollinates, and can also cross-pollinate. It has relatively strong resistance to sulfur dioxide and is suitable for indoor greening in factory areas.
I. Key points for the propagation and cultivation of potted cyclamen: cultivation techniques
Seed sowing propagation is mostly used. Sow in September and it flowers in the winter of the following year. The cut-tuber method can also be used for propagation, but it easily rots, so it is mostly not adopted. The key to cultivation is that during the summer dormancy period a cool environment that is not overly humid must be maintained. Tubers 2 to 3 years old have the strongest growth, so old tubers are often discarded. Repot once each year.
II. Propagation and cultivation care of planted cyclamen
1. Sowing: Cyclamen tubers cannot naturally divide into small tubers, so seed sowing is generally used for propagation. However, cyclamen virus damage is serious, and seeds often have a relatively high virus infection rate; if the virus infection rate is >20%, then before sowing the seeds must be detoxified. The method is: soak the seeds in 0.1% mercuric chloride for 1 to 2 minutes, then rinse clean with water; then soak in 10% sodium phosphate solution for 10 to 20 minutes and rinse clean; finally soak in a 35 to 40°C colloidal solution and treat for 48 hours, rinse clean with water, and they can be sown. Determine the sowing period according to the flower supply time. Generally sow 13 months before the flower supply time; early-flowering varieties also need 8 to 10 months. To supply flowers for Christmas, New Year's Day and Spring Festival, sowing is usually done in September to October.
Cyclamen germinates slowly and emerges unevenly, with a germination rate of about 85% to 95%. To germinate earlier and sprout evenly, seed soaking to promote germination can be done before sowing (detoxified seeds sown immediately need no germination promotion); soak the seeds in cold water for 24 hours or in 30°C warm water for 2 to 3 hours, wash off the sticky material on the seed surface, wrap in a damp cloth to promote germination, and at a temperature of 25°C treat for 1 to 2 days, and when the seeds have slightly sprouted, take them out and sow. For the sowing soil, equal parts of vermiculite and fine cinder can be mixed; equal parts of peat soil and vermiculite mixed; or equal parts of loam, leaf mold and river sand prepared. Sow in spots, with a spacing of 2 cm x 2 cm, covering with 0.5 cm of soil. Use the pot-soaking method to keep the potting soil moist, at a temperature of 18 to 20°C, and germination occurs in 30 to 40 days. When the sown seedlings grow 1 true leaf, divide the seedlings, with a spacing of 3.5 cm x 3.5 cm, using soil prepared in a ratio of leaf mold 5, loam 3, river sand 2. When planting, make the top of the small tuber level with the soil surface, keep it moist, place it in a weak-light spot during the recovery period, and after growth resumes, gradually increase light, strengthen ventilation, with a suitable temperature of 15 to 18°C, topdress appropriately, and be careful not to let the fertilizer liquid contaminate the leaves, to avoid causing rot. When the seedlings have 3 to 5 leaves, pot them up.
2. Tuber division method: For fine varieties of cyclamen that set fruit poorly, the tuber division method can be used for propagation. In late August, when the tuber is about to sprout, cut the tuber lengthwise from the top into several pieces, each piece needing to have a bud eye, coat the cut with plant ash or charcoal powder, let it dry slightly, and then it can be potted and planted. Careful maintenance and management are required. This method has a small propagation coefficient, the tuber easily rots, management is difficult, flowering is sparse, the plant shape is not attractive, and the tuber exposed above the soil surface is not round and neat, so it is rarely used.
In recent years, various studies on the vegetative propagation of cyclamen have been carried out internationally, and successful methods include: 1. Tuber tissue culture, cutting the tuber into pieces and carrying out tissue culture under sterile conditions to form regenerated plants; 2. Cutting with leaf buds bearing part of the tuber tissue; 3. In the original pot, cutting off the upper part of the tuber, then cutting and dividing it lengthwise to make it form regenerated seedlings, etc. The third method is highlighted below. The cyclamen tuber is formed by the abnormal thickening of the hypocotyl; after cutting off the upper part, adventitious buds can grow from the cut surface, thereby forming regenerated plants. Dividing 1 tuber can obtain many regenerated individuals. The procedure is: select a healthy, plump and well-filled tuber, and carry out division 1 to 2 months after flowering; the suitable period for division is May to June. First adjust the potting soil humidity, because if division is carried out under normal cultivation conditions, the wound will secrete a large amount of sap; this bleeding not only affects growth vigor, especially hindering the formation of adventitious buds, but also easily leads to rot. Therefore watering should be controlled and soil humidity reduced; when the leaf tips feel soft to the touch, that is the suitable period for division. First cut off the upper part of the tuber, with a thickness of about 1/3 of the tuber. Then make radial cuts (for tubers with a diameter below 4 cm) or checkerboard cuts (for tubers with a diameter above 4 cm) lengthwise, to a depth that does not damage the root system. If checkerboard cutting is carried out, the cut spacing is 1 cm; a tuber 6 cm in diameter can be cut into 27 pieces.
After division, immediately cover the flowerpot with plastic film and carry out a ripening treatment at 30°C until the wound forms periderm, which takes about 12 days, then promote adventitious buds at 20°C. During this period (about 20 to 30 days), the key point of management is to maintain the soil moisture from the time of division. The pot can be weighed together with its contents at the time of division, and the lost water replenished by weight every 2 to 3 days. From 70 to 80 days after division, each cut piece forms adventitious buds; lower the temperature to 15°C so that they gradually adapt to the environment. From the beginning of adventitious bud formation (about 35 days after division), gradually increase the amount of water given, and apply liquid fertilizer once a week. About 100 days after division, regenerated plants are basically formed, and they can be transplanted into pots. Usually they flower 11 to 14 months after division. This method is carried out in the original cultivation pot, is simple and easy to perform, and requires no complicated techniques or equipment; the time to form regenerated plants is short; the regenerated individuals are uniform in character; and the regeneration rate is high. It is a method of vegetative propagation with great application prospects. It can be used to propagate clonal lines of superior varieties; in addition, it also has practical value in the production of first-filial-generation (F1) hybrid seeds.
III. To meet the need for flowers at different times, the following methods are mainly used to control the flowering period:
1. Adjusting the sowing date: By making use of the seedlings' relatively strong tolerance to high temperatures, placing them in a cool, ventilated environment so that they do not go dormant in summer, the flowering period can be advanced. Sowing can be done from December to early summer, and they will flower in about 12 months. The sowing time can be determined according to the required flowering period.
2. Controlling environmental factors to delay or advance dormancy, or to break or prolong the dormancy of dormant tubers. For example, for flowering plants about to enter dormancy, applying additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, providing appropriate shading, and placing them in a cool, ventilated place at 25°C can allow them to continue flowering until June to July.
3. Using certain volatile chemical agents to break or promote the dormancy of bulbs and tubers, thereby controlling the flowering period. For example, injecting or fumigating with aqueous solutions of ether, camphor, etc. into the buds can break dormancy. For instance, placing 0.5 cm of ether in a sealed space of 1000 cubic meters and treating for 24 to 48 hours causes cyclamen tubers to quickly break dormancy, resume growth, and flower earlier. As another example, placing a cloth ball soaked with ester solutions such as ethyl naphthaleneacetate or ethyl phenylcarbamate beside a cyclamen tuber about to sprout can keep the tuber from sprouting for several weeks, thereby delaying the flowering period.
IV. Pest and disease control of cyclamen
1. Soft rot is caused by the bacterium Bacterium
aroideae, and occurs under high temperature and high humidity in summer. It damages leaf stalks and flower stalks, causing water-soaked softening; in dry weather the lesions dry up; in rainy weather they rot and give off a foul odor. The pathogen overwinters in the soil. Control methods: first, the potting soil must be thoroughly sterilized; second, during high summer temperatures, control water, do not apply nitrogen fertilizer, do not let the plants be injured, maintain air circulation, and provide appropriate shading; third, promptly remove diseased leaves and burn them, and spray with Bordeaux mixture.
2. Anthracnose is caused by the pathogen Glomerella
rufomaculans. The lesions are tea-brown, round and sunken; later the lesions enlarge and bear black conidia, which disperse and infect by means of water. Control methods: remove affected leaves and leaf stalks and burn them; avoid wetting the leaves when watering; in the early stage of the disease, spray with a 500-600 times dilution of 50% carbendazim.
3. Nematode disease is caused by parasitism by the cyst nematode Heterodelaradicicola. A soil temperature of 25 to 30°C and a soil moisture of about 40% favor nematode damage, which invades the roots and forms root galls. Affected plants grow weakly, the lower leaves turn yellow, and the whole plant may even die. Control methods: soil sterilization; burning affected plants; soaking in hot water at 50°C for 10 minutes can kill the nematodes.
4. Aphids cause leaves to curl, leaf stalks to bend, growth to be hindered, and flowers to fail to open. They can be controlled with a 1500 times dilution of dimethoate. Red spider mites are also seen causing damage; spray with a 1500 times dilution of dicofol.
17. Narcissus
In the cold months of winter, narcissus can, in a dish of clear water, unfold its emerald-green leaves and open elegant, fragrant flowers. Placed on a table indoors, it brings people vitality and a feeling of spring.
According to Chinese flower introductions: narcissus cultivation methods include soil culture, sand culture, water culture, and carved shaping. The cultivation requirements are not high; as long as the temperature is kept at around 15°C, there is sufficient sunlight, and water is given frequently and changed often, it can bloom in 25 to 30 days. But several points should be noted:
1. The temperature must not exceed 25°C, otherwise growth stops and the plant enters dormancy, causing the flower buds to turn yellow, shrivel, and dry up;
2. Sunlight must be sufficient, otherwise the leaves will grow into garlic-like leaves;
3. The water used must be clean, otherwise deterioration of the water causes contamination and root rot.
Narcissus has a special characteristic in its growth: its flowering date can be decided by people themselves. If it is required to bloom during the Spring Festival, the bulb (narcissus head) can be planted in a pot about 20 days to 300 days before the Spring Festival; after being potted, it begins to grow until flowering. Several cultivation methods are introduced here:
Soil culture
For soil culture, the soil should be loose humus soil. Before planting, peel off the dried outer bulb scales of the narcissus head and scrape off the old roots, and add humus soil to 3 cm below the pot rim. Hold the pot with both hands and shake it to make the humus soil compact, then seat the narcissus bulb base in the pot, continue adding soil for about 1 cm, then water thoroughly, and place the flowerpot in a cool, shaded place. After 5 days, when the bulb base has grown roots, place the flowerpot in a sunny place for cultivation. When watering in soil culture, pay attention to watering only when dry and watering thoroughly when watering; that is, do not water if the soil is not dry, and once you water, water until it leaks from the bottom of the pot. Watering should be done in the morning and evening, otherwise it will damage root growth.
Sand culture
For sand culture, it is best to use clean, washed fine sand, and the pot should also be a breathable clay pot. Before planting, first put sand into the pot to 3 cm below the pot rim, then seat the narcissus head with the old stem scales and old roots removed into the flowerpot filled with fine sand, then add about 1 cm more sand so that the lower stem of the narcissus head is buried about 1 cm in the sand. Then water thoroughly and place in a cool, shaded place. After 5 days, place it in a sunny place until flowering. When planting narcissus heads in sand, water thoroughly every day; failure to water in time will cause water deficiency and affect root growth of the flowers. Watering should also be arranged in the morning and evening.
Water culture
Before water culture, also peel off the old stem scales and old roots cleanly, then place them in a narcissus bowl for cultivation, add water to about 1 cm below the lower bulb of the narcissus head, and place in a cool, shaded place. After the bulb base has grown roots, place it in a sunny place until flowering. For water-cultured narcissus, it is best to change the water every day; on the one hand, this prevents deterioration of the water from causing contamination and root rot, and on the other hand, changing the water every day keeps the water clean and the roots grown white and beautiful.
Carved shaping of narcissus
In order to make the flowers and leaves grow in graceful and varied forms, the flower head needs to be carved and treated. The specific method is: first peel off the dried outer scales of the bulb and scrape off the old roots, then carve. When carving, first observe the growth tendency of the buds, use the curved side as the carving surface, then use a small pointed knife to gently cut a horizontal line from left to right on the bulb at 2 cm from the root base, then cut a vertical line on each of the left and right sides, then peel off the scales layer by layer within the range of the horizontal and vertical lines, and at the same time dig out the scales between the buds until the leaves and pale yellow flower scapes are exposed; at this point the leaves can be curled. Next, carry out shaping treatment on the flower scapes: use a small knife to scrape a line from top to bottom above the flower scape and below the flower bud, or use a needle to prick the flower scape several times from top to bottom; the growth of the flower scape will then become abnormal and likewise bend toward the wounded side. According to the requirements of different shapes, the degree and position of scraping also differ. Carved and shaped narcissus heads should be promptly soaked in water with the wounded surface facing down, in order to remove the mucus secreted from the wounds, changing the water every day, and soaking for about 2 to 3 days. After the mucus has been cleaned away, they can be taken out and the bulb base (root base) covered with absorbent cotton. Then place the carved surface facing up, put it into a narcissus bowl, add water, and cultivate in a cool, shaded place. Change the water once a day to keep the water clean. When the bulb base has grown to about 1 cm long, place the narcissus bowl in a sunny place for cultivation. Remember that during cultivation the temperature should not exceed 20°C, change the water frequently, once a day, spray water frequently, 1 to 2 times a day, and give frequent sunlight; the flowers cultivated in this way will be luxuriant, fragrant, and graceful in form.;

What flowers bloom in October? What flowers and plants are suitable for planting in October

We all know that different flowers have different growth cycles and different ornamental periods, so different months have different flowers in bloom. So what flowers bloom in October?

What flowers bloom in October

Osmanthus

Flowers from September to early October. Osmanthus is one of China's ten traditional famous flowers, an excellent garden tree species that combines greening, beautification, and fragrance, with both ornamental and practical value. Osmanthus can be pure enough to cleanse the dust, and its fragrance can spread far when strong; it can be called superb. Especially in mid-autumn, when clusters of osmanthus bloom in full glory, on a quiet night with a full moon, drinking wine and admiring osmanthus, with its aged fragrance assailing the nose, makes one feel refreshed and clear-headed. In ancient Chinese poems praising flowers, the number of works praising osmanthus is also quite considerable. Since ancient times it has been deeply loved by Chinese people and regarded as a traditional famous flower. Osmanthus flowers grow in the leaf axils, with a gamopetalous corolla split into four lobes, small in shape, and there are many horticultural varieties, the most representative being golden osmanthus, silver osmanthus, reddish osmanthus, and laurel, etc.

Chrysanthemum

Flowers from September to November. Chrysanthemum is the third of China's ten famous flowers, one of the four gentlemen among flowers (plum, orchid, bamboo, chrysanthemum), and also one of the world's four major cut flowers (chrysanthemum, rose, carnation, gladiolus), with output ranking first. The chrysanthemum is fully deserving of being the master of autumn. Whether it is the many kinds of artificially cultivated varieties such as specimen chrysanthemum, desk chrysanthemum, cliff chrysanthemum, dahlia chrysanthemum, small dahlia chrysanthemum, and Japanese small chrysanthemum, or wild chrysanthemums such as sweet wild chrysanthemum, Asterina, Saussurea, China aster, small red chrysanthemum, and Aster, all bloom competitively in autumn, making one dazzled and full of praise.

Spider lily

Flowers from September to October. The Japanese alias of the spider lily is "Manjusaka," which comes from<<法华经>> the transliteration of the Sanskrit "Mahamanjusaka" in the text. Its original meaning is a flower in heaven, a great red flower, and it is one of the four flowers of auspicious omens sent down from heaven (Manjusaka, Mahamanjusaka, Mandarava, Mahamandarava). The scriptures say that those who see this flower will have their evils removed.

By spider lily we usually mean red spider lily. The common white spider lily and yellow spider lily cannot be regarded as true "spider lilies" in the strict sense; they are close relatives of the spider lily, and there is another famous ornamental flower called "hudixiao," also known as "iron-colored arrow." Hudixiao looks very similar to the spider lily, but the flowering period is different and the meaning is also different. The flower language of hudixiao is: happiness, joy, and surprise.

Morning glory

Flowers from June to October. Under the warm autumn sun, morning glories bloom unrestrained amid the rustling sound of wind-blown fallen leaves. There are many kinds of morning glories, with complex flower colors. Besides being ornamental, the seeds are also a commonly used Chinese medicinal material, called "erchou." The most common in Beijing are the round-leaved morning glory (Pharbitis purpurea) and the ivy-leaved morning glory (Pharbitis hederacea), which are among the most common climbing ornamental flowers in parks and courtyards in autumn.

Epiphyllum

Flowers from June to October. Epiphyllum originates from South Africa, Mexico, and other places, and belongs to the epiphytic cactus family. Epiphyllum can increase the negative ion content indoors. Although its flowering period is very short, when it blooms it is beautiful and noble, with a rich, delicate fragrance spreading all around.

Epiphyllum enjoys the reputation of "beauty under the moon." When the flower gradually unfolds, after 1 to 2 hours it slowly withers; the whole process takes only about 4 hours. Hence there is the saying "brief as an epiphyllum." It is widely cultivated in various regions of the world; it is commonly cultivated in all provinces and regions of China.

Verbena

Flowers from May to November. Verbena is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Verbena in the family Verbenaceae, with a suitable growth temperature of 5 to 25°C. It is native to South America. The flowering part is corymb-like, with flower colors including white, red, blue, snow blue, pink, etc. It is very robust and can be used as flowerbed and flower-border material, and can also be grown as pot flowers or planted in large areas in spots suitable for potted ornamental display or for arranging flower terraces, garden gaps, and tree beds.

Hibiscus mutabilis

Flowers from August to November. The hibiscus mutabilis is a shrub or small tree native to the Yellow River basin and various places in East China and South China. Its flowers may be white, pink, or red, as bright as a lotus emerging from water and as gorgeous as a lotus unfolding its petals. Because it grows on land and is a woody plant, it is also called "wood hibiscus." The flower of hibiscus mutabilis changes three times in one day, so it is also called "three-change flower." Its flowers begin to open in late autumn; though invaded by frost and dew, it remains rich and gorgeous, dominating the deep autumn scenery, and is therefore also called "frost-defying flower."

Rose of Sharon

Flowers from July to October. In the south it is mostly used as a flower hedge or green hedge; in the north it is used for courtyard embellishment and indoor potting. Aliases include white hibiscus flower, palm tree flower, large bowl flower, hedge flower, Qingming hedge, white rice flower, chicken flower, lard flower, and morning-open evening-fall flower. Rose of Sharon is brilliantly colored and is an excellent plant for free-growing flower hedges. It is suitable for planting along roadsides, in parks, courtyards, and other places, and can be planted singly, in rows, or in masses. Rose of Sharon can be used as medicine and can also be eaten. Rose of Sharon is the national flower of South Korea, also known as "endless flower," and in North America it has the laudatory name "desert rose." Some rose of Sharon flowers are light purple, some dark purple; it grows relatively quickly and has luxuriant branches and leaves. The national flower of Malaysia is also the hibiscus (also called big red flower) Bunga Raya.

Globe amaranth

Flowers from August to November. Globe amaranth aliases: ten-thousand-year red, thousand-day white, spherical cockscomb, globe amaranth; it belongs to the genus Gomphrena in the family Amaranthaceae. Globe amaranth likes sunlight, tolerates dry heat, and is very robust. It is native to tropical America and is a common flower in tropical and subtropical regions. It is ornamental; its capitulum remains unchanged for a long time. Besides being used for flowerbeds and bonsai, it can also be used for decorations such as wreaths and flower baskets. It is distributed in most areas of China, and not only has great medicinal value, but is also a raw material for flower tea suitable for clearing heat, reducing internal heat, and health preservation. In ancient times people regarded globe amaranth as a symbol of sincere friendship, and many much-told stories spread because of it.

What flowers are suitable for planting in October

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with the monthly average temperature between 10°C and 19°C.

There are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display in October. Among the woody ornamental plant species are: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, Japanese golden larch, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, spruce species, Buddhist pine, nagi, sago cycad, Canary Island date palm, Dutch iron, Chinese grey lime tree, Lanyu cinnamon, osmanthus, hibiscus mutabilis, rubber tree, Schefflera octophylla, Ficus variegata, Chinese hibiscus, golden larch, croton, Brazil wood, money tree, palm bamboo, ponytail palm, Mahonia bealei, Japanese fatsia, aucuba, thick-leaved fig, fishtail palm, areca palm, king coconut, Cordyline fruticosa, beautiful phoenix palm, fiddle-leaf fig, desert rose, South American cycad, Fortune's drypetes, large Buddha-belly bamboo, red maple, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, scandent schefflera, orange jasmine, heavenly bamboo, etc.

Herbaceous flowers include: scarlet sage, large-flowered canna, dahlia, China aster, chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, bamboo-node begonia, dragon's mouth flower, French marigold, marigold, five-color pepper, cockscomb, pot marigold, periwinkle, globe amaranth, petunia, Guinea impatiens, etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China, and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flower species cultivated in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

1. Sowing Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summer sweetshrub, ardisia, soapberry, broadleaf holly, Buddhist pine, nagi, French holly, Elaeocarpus, beautiful phoenix palm, Chinese yew, Chinese fan palm, privet, small-leaved privet, camphor tree, Weigela florida, palm, pond cypress, etc. Among them, when sowing horse chestnut, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing summer sweetshrub the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except that the seeds of summer sweetshrub and Weigela florida can be dry-stored until sowing the following spring, the seeds of the other species can, after being cleaned, be stored in moist sand to promote germination until the following spring when the seed grains crack and show white, and then be sown. Note that before storage for germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean; the water content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released; the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seed grains from drying out or becoming moldy and rotten.

Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, musk mallow, corn poppy, pot marigold, snapdragon, Dianthus species, pansy, Boston ivy, blackberry lily, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, California poppy, daisy, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium, gloxinia, petunia, cineraria, fairy primrose, African daisy, and calceolaria can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

2. Cuttage Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: red-back eupatorium, Schefflera octophylla, night-blooming jasmine, lantana, firethorn, Mahonia, finger citron, clerodendrum, Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia, aucuba, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, jasmine, pearl orchid, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, Weigela florida, snowbush, red-flowered spiraea, spiraea, Hypericum, red-leaf plum, rose, Viburnum macrocephalum, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, oleander, fig, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. The cutting medium can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice husk ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for cuttings of some southern flowers and trees, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, wax begonia, bamboo-node begonia, Tradescantia zebrina, golden pothos, clearweed, coral flower, gold-bracted flower, shrimp plant, golden-veined Justicia, cold chrysanthemum, etc.

Succulent flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: jade plant, lotus palm, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, portulacaria, etc.

Tips for planting flowers in October

1. Light should be sufficient

Some light-loving woody flowers that bloom in summer, such as jasmine, Chinese hibiscus, and orange jasmine, should still be placed in a sunny place so that the plants receive sufficient light, allowing the leaves to carry out photosynthesis better, supply nutrients in time, promote the maturation of current-year branches, enable them to overwinter safely, and ensure that next year they are still full of flowers and leaves. Potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as rhododendron, clivia, cyclamen, poinsettia, and Christmas cactus, should also be placed in a sunny place and receive full sun, otherwise the flowering period will be delayed or they may even fail to bloom. Generally, foliage plants are more shade-tolerant and can be given some light appropriately, but strong direct sunlight at noon should be avoided.

2. Water and fertilizer should be appropriate

In early autumn, especially in early to mid-September, the temperature is still relatively high and plant transpiration is large, so most flowers should be watered thoroughly once every 1 to 2 days. From mid to late September, the amount of watering should be controlled and fertilization stopped, so as to avoid root rot from too much water and excessive vegetative growth of branches and leaves from too much fertilizer, which would affect overwintering. Some flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cyclamen, clivia, Christmas cactus, and rhododendron, have already passed the dormant period and begun to enter the peak growth season, so from autumn to flowering at the Spring Festival, fertilizer and water should be continuously supplied, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be appropriately increased to facilitate flower bud formation and budding and flowering.

3. Pruning should be reasonable

Except for flowers that bloom in early spring, most flowers such as jasmine, crape myrtle, and pomegranate can be pruned and shaped in autumn, with branch pruning carried out in late autumn and early winter. This can reduce nutrient consumption by the plants in winter, promote the robustness of potted flowers, and result in more flowers the following year. When pruning, remove diseased branches, dead branches, overly dense branches, and excessive vegetative branches, laying a good foundation for potted flowers to overwinter.

4. Pest and disease control should be thorough

Autumn is still a season of high incidence of pests and diseases, and plants are easily harmed by pests such as scale insects, red spider mites, aphids, and whiteflies. Diseases include leaf spot disease and rot disease of branches and trunks, etc. Before potted flowers are brought indoors, these pests and diseases must be thoroughly treated, and they must never be allowed indoors to cause harm. For those in which pests and diseases have not been found, pesticides can be sprayed for prevention.

5. Propagation should be timely

After the Start of Autumn, temperatures drop. Some biennial herbaceous flowers, such as pansy, Dianthus, cineraria, and hollyhock, are at just the right time for sowing. Sowing can be done in September to October, and after sowing attention should be paid to spraying water to keep the soil moist. There are also some woody flowers suitable for autumn cuttings, such as fuchsia, rose, geranium, jasmine, bougainvillea, and golden-edged daphne; the survival rate of autumn cuttings is relatively high. For perennial flowers that grow densely and need division, such as tree peony and Chinese peony, division propagation should be carried out in time. For bulbous flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as hyacinth, tulip, and amaryllis, potting should be done promptly.

6. Bringing indoors should be timely

The time for bringing potted flowers indoors differs according to the flower. Warm-loving flowers and trees such as Chinese hibiscus, poinsettia, begonia, cyclamen, jasmine, coleus, and Monstera deliciosa should be moved indoors when the temperature is 10°C; spider plant, asparagus fern, Aspidistra, Schefflera octophylla, and rubber tree should also be moved indoors when the temperature drops to 5°C. The vast majority of flowers should preferably be brought indoors before Frost's Descent. Potted flowers indoors should be kept ventilated; when the temperature is relatively high at noon, doors and windows can be opened for ventilation and heat dissipation.