How to grow daisies? Let these tiny flowers bloom on your windowsill

If you want to grow daisies yourself, you should first choose suitable seeds, and be sure to use fresh, plump seeds harvested in the current year. Daisy seeds sold online are usually hard to grow successfully, so try to buy them at a flower seed market. Once the seeds are bought, you can start planting. Before planting, prepare a flowerpot and potting soil; both the pot and the soil need good air permeability, and the soil should be loose and soft.

When planting daisy seeds, do not bury them too deep, or they will not sprout easily. A depth of 3 cm from the soil surface is fine. After planting, you can water them, and remember to water thoroughly. Then place them in a spot with plenty of sunlight. If there are no problems, daisies will sprout in 3 to 5 days. After the daisies sprout, do not water too much, because rooted daisies are different from daisy seeds, and the roots are prone to rot if left soaking in water.

After daisies sprout, although the roots cannot be left soaking in water, the soil should not be too dry either. You can use a spray bottle to mist them every day, which will keep the soil moisture at the right level. After half a month, the daisies will grow to 5 or 6 cm tall, and after that, normal sun exposure and watering are fine. But after one month, you should fertilize the daisies, with the interval between fertilizations being once a month.

The planting time for daisies is different from that of other flowers. Remember, it is autumn each year, preferably September. This way, when the daisies grow to a size at which they can bloom, it will be exactly spring. After daisies form buds, do not fertilize them anymore, because too much fertilizer will be more than the buds and flowers can handle. But after daisies bloom, they are especially prone to pest problems, so before they bloom, you need to do pest prevention work first.

Use flower insecticide bought on the market, and according to the ratio in the instructions, pour it around the daisy roots and spray the leaves until wet. This way, after the daisies bloom, they will be less likely to suffer pest damage and can keep their blooming period longer. During the daisy blooming period, do not remove pests or fertilize; just ensure sufficient water and light.

What flowers are good to grow in the living room? Living room flower-growing feng shui

At present, placing plants and flowers at home is indispensable. Everyone believes that plants and flowers not only bring a good decorative effect to the interior, but also purify the air, which has a good influence on our daily life. However, in the process of growing plants and flowers, we also cannot ignore feng shui issues. Below we share with you the feng shui of growing flowers in the living room.

I. Choosing flowers for the living room according to the five elements

1. Wood element benefits the liver and is suitable for the east position; fire element placed in the south strengthens body and mind.

2. Earth element nourishes the stomach and is placed in the center; white flowers placed in the west belong to the metal element.

3. Metal-element plants can treat the lungs, keeping the lungs of smokers constantly refreshed.

4. Water element placed in the north generates vigorous energy; flowers in blue and leaves in black can tonify the kidneys.

II. What flowers are good for feng shui when placed in the living room

1. Air purifiers: aloe, spider plant, snake plant, cast-iron plant, monstera

These plants are natural purifiers and can remove harmful substances from the air. Research shows that snake plants and spider plants can absorb more than 80% of harmful gases indoors, and their ability to absorb formaldehyde is especially strong; aloe can absorb 90% of the formaldehyde contained in 1 cubic meter of air; English ivy, sago palm, chrysanthemum, kumquat, pomegranate, purslane, camellia, orange jasmine, daisy, wintersweet, marigold, and others can effectively remove harmful substances such as sulfur dioxide, chlorine, ether, ethylene, carbon monoxide, and nitrogen peroxide.

2. Natural dust collectors: osmanthus, wintersweet, caladium, red-back gui

These plants are natural dust collectors, and their fine hairs can intercept and absorb floating particles and smoke dust in the air.

3. Sterilizing disinfectants: rose, osmanthus, stock, jasmine, lemon, Rosa multiflora, dianthus, lily of the valley, crape myrtle

These plants are aromatic flowers whose volatile oils have a significant sterilizing effect. Plants such as crape myrtle, jasmine, and lemon can kill native bacteria such as diphtheria bacteria and dysentery bacteria within 5 minutes. The fragrances released by plants such as Rosa multiflora, dianthus, lily of the valley, stock, rose, and osmanthus have a clear inhibitory effect on the growth and reproduction of tubercle bacilli, pneumococci, and staphylococci.

4. Natural oxygen generators: cactus

Succulent plants native to tropical arid regions, such as cacti, have stomata on their fleshy stems that close during the day and open at night, absorbing carbon dioxide while producing oxygen, thereby increasing the concentration of negative ions in indoor air. Snake plants, sansevieria, agave, as well as Opuntia phaeacantha, kalanchoe, sedum, Bryophyllum pinnatum, and cultivated bromeliads can also purify the air at night.

5. Mental boosters: clove, jasmine, rose, stock, mint

These plants can help people relax, feel mentally pleasant, aid sleep, and also improve work efficiency.

6. Effective disease prevention: Rosa multiflora, dianthus, lily of the valley, stock, rose, osmanthus

The fragrances released by these plants have a clear inhibitory effect on the growth and reproduction of tubercle bacilli, pneumococci, and staphylococci.

7. Cooling comparable to air conditioning: Boston ivy, grape, morning glory, wisteria, Rosa multiflora

Plant these climbing plants around the home and let them climb along walls or trellises to form a green shade canopy, which can effectively reduce solar radiation and greatly lower indoor temperature.

III. Size of flowers grown in the living room

When growing flowers at home, you should choose types according to the size of the room, with a moderate number, attractive appearance, and no harm to family members; growing flowers indoors is not a case of the more the better. Generally, for a room of about 15 sq m, it is suitable to place only 2 medium or large plants, while 3 to 4 small plants are enough. The diameter of the flowerpot should not be smaller than the diameter of the flower crown. A pot diameter larger than the flower crown diameter brings wealth. Equal top and bottom preserve wealth; larger top and smaller bottom loses wealth. Note that flowerpots must be placed in a sunny spot on the balcony; they should not be placed on the north side indoors, as that encourages yin energy.

IV. Taboos for growing flowers in the living room

1. Flowers with thorns, spines, or pointed leaves, such as yucca from South America, agave from Mexico, or any other cacti with many spines.

2. Artificially cultivated flowers and plants, such as bonsai, because this represents disadvantage in wealth luck.

3. Flowers with drooping leaves, such as weeping willow.

V. Key points for arranging flowers in the living room

The living room is where the host receives guests and the family gathers. The key point of arranging flowers here is to highlight the host's warmth and hospitality, and to have a generous and warm atmosphere.

1. Choose the types of flowers well: flowers grown in the living room can be relatively large foliage plants with lush branches and leaves, such as sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, and rubber tree; they can also be small, elegant foliage plants with green branches and leaves and beautiful shapes, such as Echeveria, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, and lucky bamboo; medium-sized monstera, parlor palm, and vine-type flowers can also be grown.

2. Placement of flowers in the living room: they should be placed according to their size. For example, large flowers can be placed in corners or beside the sofa; medium flowers can be placed on a taller flower stand or on the windowsill; small flowers can be placed on the coffee table; vine-type flowers can be hung from the ceiling or arranged in a wall-mounted style.

3. Flower arrangement methods: in the living room, wall-style flower arrangements can also be used to add more greenery to the living room; partition-style flower arrangements can also be used to divide the space between the living room and dining room; larger flower arrangements can also be placed, using colorful fresh flowers and lush green leaves to further highlight the host's hospitality.

VI. Issues to note when arranging flowers:

1. For small flowers selected, generally do not choose spiny flowers such as cacti and cactus balls; it is best to choose seasonal flowers. For example, at New Year's Day or Spring Festival, choose narcissus. The narcissus standing gracefully among fine stones and clear water, with vivid green leaves, pure white flowers, and a charming fresh fragrance, can add a joyful atmosphere to the festive holiday.

2. Because the living room is relatively open to the outside, it can reflect the host's taste and style to a certain extent. Therefore, the arrangement of living room flowers should pay attention to showing the host's work, personality, and taste.

3. The color tone, posture, and style of the flowers in the living room should be consistent with the style of the living room.

The above is the sharing of feng shui issues related to growing flowers in the living room. We hope everyone will pay attention to them.

Complete collection of flower-growing manuals

Flower-growing manual

Key points for spring flower growing

Flower-growing manual (February edition)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and also the cold period second only to January in the year. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition toward spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to recovery. The main flower-related tasks this month are as follows: first, continue the cold protection and heat preservation work for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job with post-bloom pruning and repotting of some woody flowers; third, do the preparatory work for cuttings, grafting propagation, and seed sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. In February, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels include: pot marigold, cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, asparagus fern, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, safflower, cornflower, blanket flower, strawflower, scarlet sage, marigold, peacock chrysanthemum, dwarf petunia, California poppy, phlox, calceolaria, butterfly flower, snapdragon, nasturtium, pansy, and others. By the end of February, those that can be sown outdoors in open ground include: seeds of magnolia, Michelia, photinia, maple, and Malus (Rosaceae) that have already cracked and shown white after sand storage treatment, as well as camphor tree, tulip tree, privet, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, palm, goldenrain tree, soapberry, horse chestnut, clove, and others; seeds of wintersweet, Calycanthus, and wisteria should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours, and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. In February, woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-ground cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film to retain moisture include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches of cultivars such as Gongfen and Lüe), nandina, cotton rose (southern regions), crape myrtle, daphne (southern regions), edgeworthia, pomegranate, forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, serissa, hibiscus, Hypericum (plum), spiraea, mahonia, boxwood types, and oil hemp stalk, and others. Sand-stored branches of clove and Chinese trumpet creeper can also be cuttings at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela florida, Deutzia, hydrangea, tamarisk, plane tree, grape, and fig can also continue to be cut and stored for cuttings by the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be cuttings indoors in February include: hibiscus, bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), Begonia maculata, red-back gui, scarlet sage, geranium, jasmine, Chloranthus, finger citron, jade plant, jade leaf, Echeveria, graptopetalum, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, Pilea, Bryophyllum pinnatum, kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, clerodendrum, Schefflera, Guangdong evergreen, and Cordyline, and others.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, Japanese black pine, and lacebark pine, then plant them in the ground and cover with film to keep warm and moist. Use one-year-old seedlings such as apricot and wild peach as rootstock, and cut-graft to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, and purple-leaf peach, and others. In regions south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on wintersweet branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use wintersweet seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock, and cut-graft to propagate superior wintersweet cultivars such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou', and 'Huti'; by adopting bagging and air inflation measures to retain moisture, the survival rate is relatively high. Use robust branches of the rose cultivar 'Elizabeth' as rootstock and scion, and cut-graft or cleft-graft superior rose cultivars as scions; by adopting the measures of grafting first, then cuttings, and then covering with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold, the grafting survival rate can be greatly increased.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chaenomeles speciosa, osmanthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, Weigela florida, Buddhist pine, Chinese incense cedar, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, forsythia, Hypericum, hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, spirea, red maple, and Michelia, and others.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: iris, blackberry lily, autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf dwarf lilyturf, variegated dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, bleeding heart, hosta, Hosta ventricosa, small tulip, bromeliads, purple-backed Rohdea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, spider plant types, Bryophyllum pinnatum, canna, arrowroot, monstera, Syngonium, bird of paradise, clivia, and aloe, and others. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: nandina, cotton rose, Hypericum, mahonia, hydrangea, Chaenomeles speciosa, edgeworthia, winter jasmine, forsythia, Caragana, spirea, red-flowered spiraea, jasmine, Chloranthus, tiger thorn, purple magnolia, four-season osmanthus, bamboo palm, and Pleioblastus fortunei, and others.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds such as nandina, holly types, Ardisia crenata, and winter cherry can be picked, processed, and then sand-stored to promote germination; sowing can be done only after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial pollination can be given in order to obtain clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various sand-stored flower and tree seeds to see whether any seeds have become moldy. If mold occurs, clean them promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with water spraying to maintain a certain humidity in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, sow them within a relatively short time. Once the radicle extends too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle and affect the seedling emergence rate. Large sand-stored seeds can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and temperatures are relatively high, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and planted out include: dianthus types, snapdragon, hollyhock, variegated holly, daisy, and pot marigold, and others.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be planted out. Among deciduous types are hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, Malus types, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple types, wisteria, crape myrtle, wintersweet, plum blossom (before sprouting and leafing out), magnolia types, soapberry, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, spiraea, Triarrhena, Deutzia, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum (plum), weeping willow, golden willow, cotton rose, smoke tree, persimmon, and apricot, and others; evergreen tree species such as Michelia types, camphor tree, Elaeocarpus, French holly, Machilus, and purple nanmu can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; osmanthus, privet, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, oriental arborvitae, and black pine, among others, should be given moderate pruning when planted.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two continuous months of indoor (or tunnel) maintenance, potted ornamental plants have consumed a relatively large amount of nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the plants has greatly declined, so moisture retention and cold protection work should continue carefully. If greenhouses or plastic tunnels have heating facilities, continue heating them, and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, they can continue to be hung; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, even more care should be taken.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities, continue good ventilation work; especially by the end of February, ventilation time can be extended during the period of the day with the highest temperature. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For cold-sensitive flowers kept in small quantities at home, such as orange jasmine, Phalaenopsis, peacock arrowroot, Syngonium, iron cross begonia, croton, and pink fittonia, among others, in especially cold weather, plastic bags can be put over them at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom with heating appliances such as a "bath heater" turned on to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. Because temperatures are relatively low in February, for the vast majority of potted flowers, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist and ensure safe overwintering, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor environments, frequently spray water and mist on the leaves of the plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color and luster and flower buds to stop growing; in severe cases leaves shrink and wrinkle, and flower buds shrink and fall off, such as camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, bitter orange, kumquat, winter cherry, and others, all of which may drop buds and fruit, or even die. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should basically match the indoor or tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, and pot marigold, and fruit-viewing plants such as firethorn, nandina, bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, Ardisia crenata, four-season mandarin, and winter cherry, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds, and fruits, so that the leaves can be emerald green, the flower buds can rapidly expand, and the fruits can be brightly colored. In particular, for peonies, plum blossoms, Chaenomeles speciosa, and Malus halliana, among others, placed in tunnels for forcing, branches must also be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For large-flowered Cymbidium purchased after being cultivated in greenhouses or tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse or tunnel differ greatly from those at home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often become wrinkled and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, the potting soil must be kept moist, and the plants must be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    Although in February the vast majority of potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened; especially during several consecutive days of rising temperatures, supplementary watering and spraying should be promptly strengthened.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, promptly supplement watering; especially for those evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, during the middle of sunny days, appropriately spray water on the leaves as well, to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off afterward and affecting spring recovery growth.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, continue to apply basal fertilizer by burying it for most greening trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon manure, pond mud, and septic tank cleanings, and others. Dig ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant root system, apply the fertilizer, and then cover with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth in spring and summer and of flowering and fruiting.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, daphne, plum blossom, European narcissus, hyacinth, tulip, Christmas cactus, Epiphyllum, Neoregalia, Tillandsia, Guzmania, and clivia, continue to apply low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, and tree-stump bonsai placed in tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in dormancy, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.

    4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted plum blossoms, wintersweet, forsythia, and winter jasmine, among others, after flowering, severe renewal pruning can be carried out. For branches that have flowered, retain only 2 to 3 buds at the base and cut off all the rest, to encourage many new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, vigorous branches, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For tree-stump bonsai types that are mainly pruned, such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, banyan, trident maple, Fukien tea, oak, Chinese ash, water willow, Elaeagnus, holly fern, holly, serissa, juniper, and Chinese juniper, continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them at the same time as pruning.

    5. Repotting. Late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is recovering growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted by the end of February include: hibiscus, geranium, orange jasmine, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus, two-color jasmine, red-back gui, sword fern, monstera, rubber tree, fuchsia, Begonia maculata, wax begonia, painted-leaf begonia, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, sago palm, clivia, Haworthia, aloe, Christmas cactus, Epiphyllum, sedum, jade plant, jade leaf, kalanchoe, amaryllis, asparagus fern, spider plant, Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, Rohdea japonica, bird of paradise, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, coral plant, clerodendrum, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, hydrangea, nandina, croton, Syngonium, arrowroot, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, bitter orange, kumquat, and finger citron, and others.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses, and gray mold appearing on primrose leaves, in the early stage of disease, choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution and spray, once every 10 days, for 2 to 3 consecutive sprays.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted cyclamen in tunnels, spray with 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution.

For potted Belgian azaleas in tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao" on the leaves, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer sprayed on the plants is difficult to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants, and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as bitter orange and kumquat), when there are few insects, brush them off with a brush; when there are many insects, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution to kill them. After aphids, scale insects, and ants are killed, sooty mold will also disappear accordingly.

For insect bodies such as pink mealybug, white peach scale, oyster shell scale, and black-brown round scale appearing on potted flower plants in tunnels, brush them off with a stiff brush, or use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to kill the insects, or spray with 2.5% cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution to kill them, or bury and apply 3% carbofuran or 20% fenamiphos granules in the flowerpot for control.

Continue clearing dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, as well as insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted flower plants, and burn them in a concentrated manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, and others into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and seal for fermentation, so that it can be diluted during the growing season and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, and after about 2 months spread it out to dry in the sun; after fully drying, pack it in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried cake fertilizer in granular powder form can be scattered in flowerpots as topdressing. For Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, large-flowered Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and other potted flower types, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer. Especially when growing flowers on a balcony, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used to mix potting soil.

    8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, continue turning and cultivating garden plots that have not yet been fully plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, then dig trenches and make beds for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include Chinese incense cedar, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, juniper, oriental arborvitae, true juniper, ginkgo, serissa, creeping juniper, Japanese white pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, thousand-head red pine, water willow, Caragana, small golden coin plum, wintersweet, Chaenomeles speciosa, crape myrtle, banyan, Chinese elm, and trident maple, and others.

Continue re-wiring and adjusting plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If sunken binding constriction marks are found on the plants, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, then replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, and stone-attached bonsai, continue good heat preservation and cold protection work, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing and cracking apart, causing unnecessary losses.

Flower-growing manual (March edition)

(I) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the area in front of your courtyard is open and broad, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain degree, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively sun-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: white magnolia, ginkgo, osmanthus, purple magnolia, Michelia, Yulan magnolia, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, persimmon, cotton rose, tulip tree, plum blossom, rose, fig, camellia, crape myrtle, peony, pomegranate, wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, nandina, red maple, redbud, hibiscus, and Canary Island date palm, and others. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, then choose flower and tree species suited to shady and damp conditions, such as palm, photinia, Aucuba, French holly, privet, Mahonia bealei, southern magnolia, camphor tree, dragon juniper, Elaeocarpus, Buddhist pine, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis, deodar cedar, wintersweet, banana, and clustered bamboo, and others. Regardless of the light, dryness, or wetness in your courtyard, when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees, you should note the following points: first, the minimum temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid cold damage; second, they should be suited to local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid not adapting; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balcony of the second floor, to avoid affecting the lighting of upstairs residents and affecting neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but already basically formed large-sized plants, so that greening and beautification effects can be achieved earlier, such as ginkgo, Japanese fir, osmanthus, plum blossom, and Buddhist pine, whose height should not be lower than 2 m; eighth, leave some open space for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many types of herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, scarlet sage, cockscomb, globe amaranth, Celosia, marigold, hollyhock, impatiens, lupine, daisy, pot marigold, corn poppy, autumn zephyr lily, and dahlia, and others. Herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant types that are relatively shade-tolerant include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Lycoris radiata, Rohdea japonica, purple-backed Rohdea, cast-iron plant, iris, Acorus calamus, and Saxifraga stolonifera, and others.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potting in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, you can choose some flower species requiring relatively meticulous management, such as plum blossom, orange jasmine, camellia, poinsettia, wintersweet, Belgian azalea, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian ironwood, money tree, queen palm, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, Ardisia crenata, bromeliads, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix tree), Fagraea ceilanica (commonly known as African jasmine), cinnamon types (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, large-flowered Cymbidium, anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, bird of paradise, hibiscus, clivia, pothos, Fittonia, croton, Syngonium, Syngonium, finger citron, bitter orange, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, calceolaria, fishtail palm, areca palm, bottle palm, and others. For courtyards with relatively poorer conditions, you can grow some types requiring relatively extensive management, such as nandina, sago palm, rhapis palm, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, amaryllis, winter jasmine, forsythia, Caragana, serissa, Chaenomeles speciosa, four-season osmanthus, cactus types, asparagus fern, rubber tree, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, monstera, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Schefflera, Pilea, red-back gui, bougainvillea, large thorn, camellia, sasanqua, red azalea, and banyan, and others.

(II) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: crape myrtle, redbud, wintersweet, Calycanthus, red maple, and tulip tree. For the latter five, before sowing, the seeds all need to be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown and raised after sand storage to promote germination include: sago palm, ginkgo, Podocarpus, Buddhist pine, Chinese fan palm, purple magnolia, Michelia types, osmanthus, horse chestnut, nandina, holly types, pomegranate, and Viburnum macrocephalum, and others. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: impatiens, marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, scarlet sage, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, four-season primrose, mallow types, four-o'clock, bird of paradise, clivia, and asparagus fern, and others. Some cold-intolerant types should be sown inside plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cuttings. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: hibiscus, geranium, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, portulacaria, graptopetalum, Echeveria, hydrangea, nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, silver bud willow, Hypericum, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, fig, Fatsia japonica, gardenia, forsythia, winter jasmine, Chinese incense cedar, daphne, and firethorn, and others. Cold-sensitive flowers are best cuttings in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side-graft to propagate Japanese white pine, Osaka pine, and Japanese black pine, and others; using 1- to 2-year-old white magnolia and purple magnolia seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft to propagate Michelia and Yulan magnolia, and others; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, and red-leaf peach, and others; using finger-thick seedling wintersweet as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select superior cultivar wintersweet scion branches, carry out cut-grafting and give bagging to retain moisture, resulting in a relatively high survival rate; using three-edged arrow as rootstock, graft to propagate Christmas cactus and various cactus balls, preferably in tunnels. In addition, camellia, cherry blossom, osmanthus, and red maple, among others, can also be grafted in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, red maple, Buddhist pine, Chinese incense cedar, straight cypress, Michelia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball, gardenia, osmanthus, and purple magnolia, and others.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchid types, bleeding heart, cast-iron plant, asparagus fern, sago palm, nandina, mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snake plant, purple triangular wood sorrel, large-flowered canna, shell ginger, dahlia, and bird of paradise, and others.

(III) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and planting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Yulan magnolia, tulip tree, and red maple, among others, should be arranged as much as possible before the plants sprout and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, prune the branches and leaves somewhat to reduce transpiration and increase the survival rate; for transplanting wintersweet, crape myrtle, redbud, hibiscus, horse chestnut, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, and cherry blossom, among others, even after sprouting it does not matter, but appropriate pruning is still needed. Whether evergreen trees or deciduous trees, when transplanting, bring a good and sufficient soil ball; generally the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertilizer in winter, before they sprout, dig ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of their root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon manure, and others, or multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossom, wintersweet, forsythia, and winter jasmine after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning dead branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, and vigorous flowering branches, one-year-old branches can be cut at 2 to 3 cm from the base, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through severe renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, favoring flowering the following year. For camellia and sasanqua, among others, after flowering, prune off branches that damage the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, hibiscus, and osmanthus, among others, which form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve ventilation and light conditions.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases that year; for some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as rose, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, grape, and Malus halliana, promptly spray Bordeaux mixture after leafing out, which can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust, and others.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower types that can continue to be transplanted and planted out in March include: dianthus, snapdragon, pot marigold, daisy, hollyhock, mallow, variegated dwarf lilyturf, autumn zephyr lily, Zephyranthes candida, iris, Reineckea carnea, Ophiopogon japonicus, dwarf lilyturf, and red-flowered wood sorrel, and others. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or herbaceous flowers transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have already resumed growth, such as ornamental kale and pansy, first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted wintersweet, plum blossom, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, firethorn, Japanese white pine, nandina, Chinese elm, trident maple, oak, and Chinese ash, among others, placed in the open, repot before they sprout and leaf out, replacing the soil with fresh, loose, fertile potting soil rich in organic matter, to lay a good foundation for spring and summer growth. For Michelia alba, orange jasmine, Chloranthus, rose, jasmine, hibiscus, bird of paradise, sago palm, poinsettia, sasanqua, camellia, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, monstera, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, clivia, Syngonium, Syngonium, and arrowroot, among others, placed indoors, repot before moving them out.

(2) Hardening off. In regions north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor maintenance in March, and equal importance must be given to cold protection and ventilation. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves sometimes move south, in early and mid-March, heat preservation and cold protection work must still continue; in late March, doors and windows of the home can be opened during the day for ventilation and closed at night, so that Michelia alba, orange jasmine, Chloranthus, jasmine, hibiscus, poinsettia, monstera, Syngonium, rubber tree, and Norfolk Island pine, among others, can gradually undergo hardening off and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding effects on that year's growth and normal flowering due to premature sprouting. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, heat preservation and cold protection work still needs to continue this month, and vigilance must not be relaxed.

(3) Pruning. For indoor hibiscus, fuchsia, clerodendrum, jasmine, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, sago palm, rubber tree, fishtail palm, areca palm, croton, asparagus fern, and begonia types, combine repotting with necessary pruning, including cutting off diseased and insect-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches, and some yellowed leaves. For trident maple, Buddhist pine, true juniper, Huangshan pine, black pine, Chinese elm, Chinese ash, oak, and red bay, among others, which are mainly appreciated for their tree stumps, wiring and pruning can also be carried out in March before sprouting, to further improve their shapes. For plum blossom, wintersweet, rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, and forsythia, among others, severe renewal pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(IV) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

Urban residents cannot all have a small courtyard, nor can they all live on the first floor with a good small flower-growing environment. More often, they grow some relatively resistant ornamental plants on the balcony to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting include one category of relatively drought-tolerant plant types. Their body surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or the plant body is fleshy and thick with relatively abundant sap, or the leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like shapes with very little transpiration water loss, or they are native to arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and therefore are very drought-tolerant, such as sago palm, cactus types (Opuntia, cleistocactus, Crassula, golden barrel cactus, large column cactus, Astrophytum, rat-tail cactus, and coral tree), portulacaria, jade plant, graptopetalum, Echeveria, Lithops, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, leaf cactus, and kalanchoe, and others. There are also wintersweet, winter jasmine, Lycoris radiata, Spathiphyllum, Guangdong evergreen, and spider plant, among others. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, so they are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is also another category of flower species that is relatively tolerant of direct sunlight exposure and dry hot winds, can accept full light, and can withstand short periods of unusually high temperatures, and is also suitable for balcony potting (especially on high-floor balconies), such as pomegranate, rose, banyan, cymbidium, small-leaf privet, agave, amaryllis, Japanese apricot, oak, Chinese elm, trident maple, water willow, black pine, juniper, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, holly fern, holly, yellow vitex, Euonymus, longevity peach, and sun plant, and others. In addition, jasmine, Chloranthus, Japanese white pine, orange jasmine, cast-iron plant, finger citron, bitter orange, lemon, rubber tree, monstera, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, camellia, Schefflera, and Norfolk Island pine, among others, can also be used as balcony potted plants on slightly lower floors, but water and shading management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as scarlet sage, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, marigold, impatiens, and dwarf petunia, can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of asparagus fern or clivia seeds is collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, move them to the outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, jade plant, graptopetalum, Echeveria, portulacaria, coral tree, and Crassula can be cuttings indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and after spring returns and the weather warms, move them to the balcony.

Use a large flowerpot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as a cutting medium, and propagate by cuttings indoors on a windowsill with good light: gardenia, fuchsia, hibiscus, bougainvillea, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), dwarf pomegranate, Chaenomeles speciosa, heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), winter daphne (Daphne odora), and coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), etc., but the pot mouth must be covered well with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, when grafting five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora 'Aurea'?), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), longevity peach, red maple, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), etc., bagging to retain moisture must be carried out, otherwise they will not easily survive.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potted cultivation are still kept indoors in March; while taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation, and exposure to light, plants that need repotting should be repotted in a timely manner. For relatively hardy flowering trees and shrubs placed on the balcony, the potting soil should be kept from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted plants, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants that year, but in severe cases can cause the plants to die. Measures such as building a makeshift shelter on site or moving them indoors or into a shed can be taken for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For tree stumps such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), evergreen holly (Ilex), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Prunus japonica?), water willow (Adina rubella?), and small-leaved privet (Ligustrum quihoui), pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and styled in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, the soil can be changed. For bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist as the standard, water once every 3 to 5 days, and give appropriate misting. For Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia viridissima, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), longevity peach, and camellia (Camellia japonica), etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be carried out after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape. Carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cut off branches and leaves infected with pests and diseases, and destroy them; for dry cut surfaces on tree stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture or similar for anti-rot treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board placed on top (prefabricated reinforced concrete), using the humidity produced by evaporation from the pool. In summer, place some flowers that prefer humid air on it, such as orchids, Monstera deliciosa, Spathiphyllum (green giant?), Philodendron 'Little Angel', coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), and heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), etc. The stored water is quite ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before the potted flowers are moved out of the room, you can also first set up tiered racks on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for installing shade nets in summer, so that once the potted flowers are moved out and encounter overly strong sunlight, shade measures can be quickly put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare the potting soil for repotting, and prepare sufficient various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Chapter)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, the warm and humid airflow from the south becomes stronger and stronger, and temperatures rise noticeably. After Qingming, although there are occasional influences from southward cold air, they can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River; only in areas north of the Huai River and the Yellow River does the harm of snow and frost remain. By the time of Grain Rain, the late frost period has ended in areas south of the Huai and Yangtze rivers, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for care; while in areas north of the Huai River, potted flowers can only be moved out after the late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, flower-related activities include the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include: spider flower (Cleome hassleriana), four-o'clock flower (Mirabilis jalapa), cockscomb (Celosia argentea), Amaranthus tricolor, moss rose (Portulaca grandiflora), dahlia (small-flowered dahlia?), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina), morning glory (Ipomoea), cypress vine (Ipomoea quamoclit), round-leaf cypress vine, flowering tobacco (Nicotiana), petunia, China aster (Callistephus chinensis), coreopsis (Coreopsis), snake's-eye chrysanthemum (Coreopsis? or Glossocardia?), marigold (Tagetes erecta), red-yellow chrysanthemum, zinnia (Zinnia elegans?), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), fairy primrose (Primula malacoides), nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), summer cypress (Kochia scoparia), maple-leaf hibiscus (Abutilon?), painted spurge (Euphorbia heterophylla?), basil (Ocimum basilicum), asparagus fern (Asparagus cochinchinensis?), cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), sand ginseng (Adenophora?), sensitive plant (Mimosa pudica), etc. Magnolia family flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in April after sand stratification include: Yulan magnolia (Magnolia denudata), Huangshan magnolia (Magnolia cylindrica?), Baohua magnolia (Magnolia zenii), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), Tianmu magnolia (Magnolia amoena), Wudang magnolia (Magnolia sprengeri?), officinal magnolia (Magnolia officinalis), Oyama magnolia (Magnolia sieboldii), mountain magnolia (Magnolia delavayi), Michelia-like magnolia (Parakmeria?), manglietia (Manglietia), red-flowered manglietia (Manglietia insignis), Ruyuan manglietia (Manglietia ruyuanensis?), big-fruited manglietia (Manglietia grandis?), yellow magnolia (Michelia champaca), banana shrub (Michelia figo), many-flowered michelia (Michelia floribunda), Lechang michelia (Michelia chapensis), Yunshan white orchid (Michelia yunnanensis?), golden-leaved michelia (Michelia foveolata?), Emei michelia (Michelia wilsonii?), Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), hybrid tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera x chinense), North American tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera), etc.; other landscaping flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in April include:

Japanese fir (Abies firma), golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), golden larch (Pseudolarix kaempferi?), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), redbud (Cercis chinensis), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), Chinese yew (Taxus chinensis), Japanese pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), Huangshan goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria?), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), maples (Acer spp.), Ormosia henryi, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), summer wintersweet (Sinocalycanthus chinensis?), white-spirea (Exochorda racemosa?), Chinese wolfberry (Lycium chinense), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown as soon as collected in April include: Gerbera (Gerbera jamesonii), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), primrose (Primula), winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), and nipplefruit (Solanum mammosum), etc. Among them, Japanese fatsia can be harvested at the end of April when the fruits have turned black, whitish, and soft; after rubbing and washing out the seeds, sow them in fertile seedbeds, or first stratify the seeds in sand until they crack and show white, then sow, covering with grass to retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, when about 70% of the seeds have emerged, remove the covering grass in a timely manner and build a shade frame; for cultivating nipplefruit (Solanum mammosum), peel off the skin of the harvested golden-yellow fruit, wash out the seeds, soak the seeds in warm water for 24 hours, and sow in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days, the seeds will germinate and emerge. When the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted. They can be potted for fruit viewing or field-planted and cultivated as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), dragon-claw pagoda tree (Sophora japonica var. pendula?), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), longevity peach, red-flowered black locust (Robinia pseudoacacia var.?), as well as cactus and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), etc.

    3. Division

Greenhouse foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily (Spathiphyllum), snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), ferns, palm bamboo (Rhapis excelsa), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), agave, silver king dieffenbachia?, Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), maranta (Maranta), aloe, peperomia, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, etc.; woody flowering plants that can be divided include: crape myrtle, five-colored plum?, hibiscus, pomegranate, etc.; herbaceous flowers that can be divided include: daylily, five-colored amaranth?, black-eyed Susan vine (Thunbergia alata), spider lily (Lycoris), canna, hanging bell flower?, coral flower, Oxalis, aster, chrysanthemum, pineapple lily?, spring? etc.

    4. Cuttings

For most flowering trees and shrubs that root easily, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can all be propagated by cuttings in April. The main types include: boxwood (Buxus), mahonia (Mahonia), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), cypress (Cupressaceae), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), pomegranate, crape myrtle, redbud, firethorn (Pyracantha), spiraea, Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), bridal wreath spirea (Spiraea prunifolia?), paperbush (Edgeworthia chrysantha), Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if during repotting not too much old soil is removed and the root system is not drastically reduced, they can all be repotted in April. However, it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, if the new shoots are too long, especially for Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), they must absolutely not be repotted after the leaves have unfolded.

    2. April is the best period for transplanting outdoor flowering trees and shrubs. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfolded or the new shoots are not long, they can all be transplanted with a soil ball in April. For evergreen flowering trees and shrubs such as camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), banana shrub (Michelia figo), and white orchid (Michelia alba), a portion of branches and leaves must be pruned off to reduce transpiration from the canopy. For deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, it is best to transplant before the leaves unfold, such as Yulan magnolia (Magnolia denudata), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), linden (Tilia), crabapple (Malus), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), ornamental peach, Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), apricot, etc. Generally, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowering trees and shrubs should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the main trunk of the transplanted plant, so that under the condition of not damaging the soil ball, there will be no worries after transplanting.

III. Bonsai Styling

April is one of the best periods for bonsai styling. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice styling are those with strong adaptability whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis?), six-month snow (Serissa japonica), water willow (Adina rubella?), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis?), winged euonymus (Euonymus alatus?), crape myrtle, velvet cypress?, flower cypress?, banyan (Ficus microcarpa), small-leaved boxwood (Buxus sinica var. parvifolia), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), paperbush (Edgeworthia chrysantha), ginkgo, black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), etc. Other types suitable for styling in April include wild hawthorn (Crataegus), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Huangshan pine (Pinus taiwanensis?), ornamental peach, firethorn (Pyracantha), red nanmu (Syzygium buxifolium?), Chinese fringe tree? (Fraxinus chinensis?), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), oak (Quercus?), galo wood?, golden bullet tree?, hall crabapple (Malus halliana), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), papaya (Chaenomeles?), Elaeagnus, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), etc.

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, metal wire or non-metal wire should be used in a timely manner to continuously wire, guide, and correct them so that they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the care of five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora) bonsai, special attention should be paid this month to the following three aspects: First, remove buds in a timely manner. When the winter buds sprout and granular needle-leaf primordia appear on them, remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length to promote shorter and denser new shoots. Second, remove female and male cones. When needle fascicle buds and male and female cones can be distinguished on the new shoots, promptly remove all female cones borne at the tips of the new shoots and male cones located at the base of the new shoots, reducing nutrient consumption during reproductive growth. Third, control watering. From the beginning of new shoot elongation, watering must be strictly controlled, watering only when dry, substituting misting for watering, to ensure that the newly grown needles are short and clustered and the branch pads remain flat and good.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), rhododendron (Rhododendron), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia viridissima, winter daphne (Daphne odora), kumquat (Fortunella), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara?), winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), Cymbidium goeringii, large-flowered cymbidium (Cymbidium hybridum), Chinese cymbidium (Cymbidium sinense), Phaius tankervilleae, etc., because flowering or fruiting consumed a large amount of nutrients, when they resume growth after warm spring, apply a topdressing mainly of nitrogen, such as fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote growth. For potted flowers about to bloom such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), redbud, pomegranate, Cymbidium ensifolium, hibiscus, and white orchid (Michelia alba), topdressing should likewise be given, and the type can be monopotassium phosphate, etc., with the concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For field-planted Yulan magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), banana shrub (Michelia figo), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), crabapple (Malus), etc., after flowering, topdressing should also be applied in a timely manner to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping and Maintenance

Money tree (Pachira aquatica) can be braided in April. Dig up the money tree seedlings that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7 into a braid. After braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then choose a suitable pot for planting. The money tree has extremely strong vitality; even if it cannot be processed into a braid or planted in time and is left spread out for 3 to 5 days, it will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjust Plant Shape and Prevent Diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and faded stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management. For flower types prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Fruit-viewing Potted Plants

For potted fruit-viewing flowering plants that bloom in April, such as papaya (Chaenomeles?), ginkgo, firethorn (Pyracantha), Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica), and hall crabapple (Malus halliana), etc., especially dioecious or cross-pollinated types, during the flowering period attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so that they can set fruit normally, and do not miss the opportunity.

    5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to misting and spraying management. Except where intermittent misting equipment is available, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times a day, always keeping the cutting medium moist, creating the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Chapter)

Weather characteristics of May: Temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north in our country. After each rainfall, the temperature rises noticeably. There is often rainy spring weather. By the time the Grain Full spring rains end, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for growing and caring for flowers, and it plays an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. May flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers and flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown as soon as collected in May mainly include: fairy primrose (Primula malacoides), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), etc. Sowing and raising seedlings in May should pay attention to the following three points: First, keep the sowing seedbed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry and dehydrated. Second, the sowing seedbed should be covered with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes between dry and wet in the seedbed, which can cause seeds to "regress." Third, after emergence, remove the covering grass in several stages, and build a shade frame in a timely manner to avoid scorching the seedlings.

For osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), mature blue-black fruits can be harvested at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the flesh, rinsed clean, and then stored in moist clean fine sand, where they can be kept until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and the radicle tip is exposed can they be sown in the ground. During storage, attention should be paid to preventing rodents from stealing them and keeping the sand moist.

For loquat (Eriobotrya japonica) sowing, the covering soil should not be too deep, generally no more than 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttings

Flower types suitable for cutting propagation in May include: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa) (white), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), dragon's-mouth flower?, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus (Coleus), begonias (Begonia), sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), rhododendron (Rhododendron), dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower?, poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), geranium (Pelargonium), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), hibiscus, coral tree (Erythrina), nasturtium (Tropaeolum), jasmine (Jasminum), Arabian jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus? (Chloranthus?), red mulberry?, deutzia (Deutzia), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), kerria (Kerria japonica), pomegranate, rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), butterfly bush (Buddleja), trumpet creeper (Campsis), gardenia, epiphyllum, Rhaphidophora?, Epiphyllum?, jade plant (Crassula ovata), gem plant?, Oyama magnolia (Magnolia sieboldii), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Chaenomeles speciosa, umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), lantana (Lantana camara), red-backed eupatorium? (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), cordyline (Cordyline), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Schefflera, oleander (Nerium oleander), firethorn (Pyracantha), mahonia (Mahonia), and Buddha-belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa) with aerial roots, etc.

    3. Grafting

In May, using potted 1- to 2-year-old purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora) seedlings or cuttings, graft and propagate white orchid (Michelia alba) and banana shrub (Michelia figo); use 1- to 2-year-old green maple (Acer palmatum?) seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and coir maple; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old rhododendron cuttings to cleft-graft Western azaleas; use wild rose (Rosa multiflora) as rootstock and bud-graft superior varieties of Chinese rose; use yellow wormwood (Artemisia annua?) as rootstock and graft superior varieties of chrysanthemum; use 2-year-old seedling wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) as rootstock and softwood-graft superior wintersweet varieties, or use potted rootstocks for grafting. In addition, cactus and three-angled cereus can be used as rootstocks to graft and propagate Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera).

    4. Layering

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid (Michelia alba), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Aglaia odorata, Western azalea, camellia (Camellia japonica), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), banana shrub (Michelia figo), red maple, etc. Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by ground layering include: Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), gardenia, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), trumpet creeper (Campsis), etc.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, the vast majority of types must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, they can bloom on schedule by late September and early October, thereby creating a joyful, passionate, and colorful holiday atmosphere. The main types include: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa) (white), cockscomb (Celosia argentea), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), summer cypress (Kochia scoparia), marigold (Tagetes erecta), dragon's-mouth flower?, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Impatiens hawkeri, coleus (Coleus), begonias (Begonia), etc.

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and the beginning of May, transplanting Yulan magnolia (Magnolia denudata) after flowering and just before budding and leafing out gives the highest survival rate. Some flowering trees and shrubs that sprout relatively late and transplant easily can also be transplanted and established with a soil ball in early May, such as crape myrtle, rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), redbud, pomegranate, silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), etc.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

Because temperatures continue to rise, potted ornamental plants will gradually increase in water demand. Besides paying attention to combining root watering with foliar misting, attention must also be paid to the quality of irrigation and spray water. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not directly use tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a water pool or small vat, and then an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with the concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flower types suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), rhododendron (Rhododendron), azalea (Rhododendron simsii), gardenia, winter daphne (Daphne odora), clivia (Clivia miniata), chrysanthemum, crabapple (Malus), red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa?), etc. Foliage types include: sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, palm bamboo (Rhapis excelsa), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), ferns, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), red (green) gem?, Spathiphyllum (green giant?), green emperor?, arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), maranta (Maranta), bromeliads, Brazilwood (Dracaena fragrans?), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Schefflera, etc. Fruit-viewing types include: bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara?), firethorn (Pyracantha), kumquat (Fortunella), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon, heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), etc.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. For shortening and pruning white orchid (Michelia alba) not long after being moved out, special attention should be paid because its branch pith is loose and the cut surface easily loses water, dries up, and extends downward. For this reason, consider making the cut 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained, and never too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), after-flowering pruning should lower the height moderately by 10 to 20 cm, so that the bud eyes located in the middle of the branch can differentiate flower buds.

(2) Bud removal. For bud removal on potted wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), attention should also be paid to the location of bud removal. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud site; otherwise, the wound will dry and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis) potted that year, promptly remove the terminal bud to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade frame or under tree shade. Types include: Monstera deliciosa, palm bamboo (Rhapis excelsa), maranta (Maranta), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Spathiphyllum (green giant?), red (green) gem?, green emperor?, pink lady leaf?, fan palm (Livistona), arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), orchids, rhododendron (Rhododendron), bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), etc. For light-loving flowering trees and shrubs, full light must be given, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha), jasmine (Jasminum), white orchid (Michelia alba), etc. Bonsai plants such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Prunus japonica?), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), water willow (Adina rubella?), oak (Quercus?), six-month snow (Serissa japonica), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), soft pine?, etc., require full light; while Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), red nanmu (Syzygium buxifolium?), Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis?), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), etc., can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia (Camellia japonica), rhododendron (Rhododendron), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), Aglaia odorata, jasmine (Jasminum), white orchid (Michelia alba), gardenia, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), winter daphne (Daphne odora), clivia (Clivia miniata), orchids, crabapple (Malus), etc., respectively after flowering remove the faded flowers and stems, and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen and supplemented with phosphorus, once every half month, to restore their nutritional growth while laying a foundation for them to differentiate flower buds again. For mainly foliage types such as rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Monstera deliciosa, Spathiphyllum (green giant?), red (green) gem?, green emperor?, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), ferns, etc., apply a fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For foliage plants with colored spots and patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata 'Laurentii'), five-colored bromeliad?, golden-heart Brazilwood?, croton (Codiaeum variegatum), caladium (Caladium), white-butterfly arrowhead plant?, pink lady leaf?, etc., apply 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution as a foliar topdressing, which can make the leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), climbing rose (Rosa multiflora?), and rose (Rosa rugosa), etc., attention should be paid to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot. For leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticide to kill them. For bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara?), kumquat (Fortunella), golden bean?, finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon, rue (Ruta), etc., which often have leaf-eating pests??? citrus swallowtail larvae, spray pesticide early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Ornamental bonsai plant types that can still be styled in May include: Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), small-leaved gardenia, mountain gardenia, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), six-month snow (Serissa japonica), Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis?), water willow (Adina rubella?), galo wood?, ginkgo, etc. It is worth noting that when styling, one must be careful and cautious, and try not to injure the bark and structure of the branches and trunks, otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Huai and Yangtze river basins enter the plum rain season. This year, plum rain began on June 12 and ended on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in the region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with prolonged continuous rain. For some flowers and the vast majority of bonsai that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant, care should be especially careful, so as to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light, which disrupts styling or affects the normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. June flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in June include: primrose (Primula), lotus seeds, sago palm (Cycas revoluta), loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), etc. For wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), when the urn-shaped fruit capsules on the fruiting mother tree turn from green to yellow and then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be harvested. Promptly peel open the fruit capsule, extract the seeds, first soak them in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds have absorbed enough water and swollen, bury them in clean wet sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white; at this time, open a furrow and sow. The covering soil thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm. Cover with rice straw to retain moisture. After most of the seed cotyledons have emerged, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 stages, and build a shade frame in a timely manner.

    2. Cuttings

In summer, temperatures are high and humidity is great, and the cambium in the branches of flowering trees and shrubs is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation. There are two major categories of flowering trees and shrubs suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category consists of types that are difficult to root or root slowly from hardwood cuttings, such as osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), camellia (Camellia japonica), banana shrub (Michelia figo), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), evergreen holly (Ilex), lilac (Syringa), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum?), Chinese snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum?), coral tree (Erythrina), Belgian azalea, Buddha-belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa) (with aerial roots), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides), pond cypress (Taxodium ascendens), bald cypress (Taxodium distichum), etc. The other category consists of types that root relatively easily, such as boxwood (Buxus), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha), Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), jasmine (Jasminum officinale?), six-month snow (Serissa japonica), pomegranate, rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), Caragana?, jasmine (Jasminum), chloranthus? (Chloranthus?), dragon-leaf pearl?, lantana (Lantana camara), kerria (Kerria japonica), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), trumpet creeper (Campsis), red-backed eupatorium? (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), hibiscus, cordyline (Cordyline), Hypericum, golden St. John's wort (Hypericum patulum?), golden willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Brazil iron (Dracaena fragrans?), Ardisia crenata, paperbush (Edgeworthia chrysantha), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), deutzia (Deutzia), mock orange (Philadelphus), crape myrtle, Weigela?, Weigela (Weigela florida), snowbush?, peach coral?, Schefflera, mahonia (Mahonia), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), bridal wreath spirea (Spiraea prunifolia?), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), etc. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-clawed golden dragon?, ivy (Hedera?), nasturtium (Tropaeolum), canary creeper?, thousand-autumn tea?, heliotrope (Heliotropium), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), geranium (Pelargonium), coleus (Coleus), begonias (Begonia), pansy (Viola tricolor var. hortensis), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), French marigold (Tagetes patula), marigold (Tagetes erecta), sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), etc.

Taking fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings of camellia (Camellia japonica) and osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans) as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the young shoots of osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified. The medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite. The cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip. The lower cut end is dipped for 10 seconds in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthaleneacetic acid solution, and after brief air-drying inserted into the seedbed. The insertion depth of the cuttings is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with a row spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the seedbed, then cover with plastic film and press the edges firmly with mud. Build a double-layer shade frame for shading, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally after one month, the cuttings will root in large numbers.

    3. Grafting

For grafting, use potted seedling wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) as rootstock to graft superior wintersweet varieties; use potted purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora) and Yulan magnolia (Magnolia denudata) seedlings as rootstock to graft white orchid (Michelia alba), banana shrub (Michelia figo), etc. For bud grafting, use wild rose (Rosa multiflora) seedlings as rootstock to graft and propagate superior Chinese rose varieties; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, plum, etc. as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), red-leaf peach, dwarf flowering cherry (Prunus japonica?), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), elm-leaved spirea? (Prunus triloba), etc.; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, red maple?, etc. For branch grafting, use oil tea (Camellia oleifera), red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa?), or single-petaled seedling camellia as rootstock to graft camellia and sasanqua; use 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among rhododendrons as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering in June include: rhododendron (Rhododendron), honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum?), Chinese snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum?), Weigela?, oleander (Nerium oleander), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), camellia (Camellia japonica), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), lilac (Syringa), gardenia, red maple, Aglaia odorata, chloranthus? (Chloranthus?), jasmine (Jasminum), white orchid (Michelia alba), etc.

    5. Division

    Flower types that can be propagated by division in June include: Boston fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia?), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica) (after flowering), Buddha-belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), purple-backed oyster plant? (Tradescantia spathacea?), bromeliads, Haworthia (zebra plant?), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Acorus, golden-edge liriope (Liriope muscari var. variegata?), etc.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting and Establishment

    1. Seed Collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus (Dianthus chinensis), cornflower (Centaurea cyanus), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), dwarf catchfly? (Silene?), tall catchfly? (Silene?), hollyhock (Alcea rosea), mallow (Malva), primrose (Primula), pocketbook plant (Calceolaria), amaryllis (Hippeastrum) (sow as soon as collected), etc.

    Flowering tree and shrub seeds that can be collected in June: after wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) seeds are collected, if nursery conditions do not permit, the extracted seeds can also be stored dry until the following spring before sowing, and this will not affect their germination rate. Peach, apricot, etc. should be sown as soon as collected, or their seeds can be stratified in sand until they crack and germinate before field sowing. Osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans) seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed, be washed clean, and stored in wet sand to promote after-ripening of the seed embryo. When they germinate, choose nursery land and sow.

    2. Transplanting, Establishment, and Potting

    In June, quite a number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting, establishment, or potting. They are: evening primrose (Oenothera), spider flower (Cleome hassleriana), garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina), Guinea impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri), primrose (Primula), ornamental pepper (Capsicum annuum), winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), red-clothed tobacco?, petunia, marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), dragon's-mouth flower?, summer cypress (Kochia scoparia), sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), cockscomb (Celosia argentea), red-green grass? (Alternanthera?), etc.

In summer, some large flowering trees and shrubs are no longer transplanted, so as not to affect their survival rate and post-transplant growth. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), mahonia (Mahonia), Hypericum, gardenia, golden-edge privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium 'Aureum'), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea), boxwood (Buxus), under special circumstances, transplanting with a soil ball is not impossible, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just do not let the tree know." But after transplanting, strengthen misting and shading management.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    Watering potted flowers in June should pay attention to the following aspects: First, watering time, preferably at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m.; under general conditions, watering once a day is sufficient. Second, water temperature, which should remain basically consistent with the potting soil temperature; if the water temperature and soil temperature differ too greatly, it will stimulate the roots and leaves of potted flowers and thereby affect their growth. Third, combine watering and misting. When there are several days without rain, besides watering the pot, also spray water on the leaf surface and around the potted flowers to increase the humidity of the local space. If there is continuous cloudy weather, decide whether to water and mist according to the dry-wet condition of the potting soil.

Flower types that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red wood sorrel (Oxalis articulata?), geranium (Pelargonium), fuchsia, clivia (Clivia miniata), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), begonias (Begonia), etc. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, reduce watering and just keep the potting soil moist. Deeply dormant types such as: cyclamen (Cyclamen), lycoris (Lycoris), Ranunculus asiaticus, Dutch peony?, etc., under high temperatures show withered aboveground stems and leaves and dead underground nutrient fibrous roots, surviving the summer dormant in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. Watering must be stopped for them, and they should be moved to a cool place, keeping the potting soil from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, comprehensively inspect the potted flowers after the rain stops. If standing water is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the potting soil dries, loosen the soil, so as to avoid root rot. Alternatively, before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, set the potted flowers upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing types such as Monstera deliciosa, spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), maranta (Maranta), Boston fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia?), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, sago palm (Cycas revoluta), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), Spathiphyllum (green giant?), red (green) gem?, green emperor?, green queen?, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum), red-backed eupatorium? (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), palm bamboo (Rhapis excelsa), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), Brazil iron (Dracaena fragrans?), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), money tree (Pachira aquatica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), white orchid (Michelia alba), Aglaia odorata, jasmine (Jasminum), chloranthus? (Chloranthus?), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), winter daphne (Daphne odora), rhododendron (Rhododendron), fragrant osmanthus?, lantana (Lantana camara), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara?), lemon, kumquat (Fortunella), pomegranate, crape myrtle, firethorn (Pyracantha), etc., apply a fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For types currently flowering, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer to meet their needs for growth, flowering, and fruiting.

For those flower types in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for succulent flower types such as jade plant (Crassula ovata), Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), Haworthia (crystal plant?), Senecio?, squirrel tail?, Lampranthus?, stapelia (Stapelia), sedum (Sedum), when the temperature reaches above 35°C, stop fertilizing to avoid rot.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. For vigorously growing types such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Prunus japonica?), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis?), Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis?), water willow (Adina rubella?), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), evergreen holly (Ilex), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), bridal wreath spirea (Spiraea thunbergii?), tamarisk (Tamarix), firethorn (Pyracantha), etc., branches that affect the styling should be pruned or shortened early, which can keep the plant clearly layered and in good shape, and can promote it to produce more short branches and new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal. For flowers such as Aglaia odorata, jasmine (Jasminum), chloranthus? (Chloranthus?), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), etc., faded flowers and stems should be removed in a timely manner, and branches that have flowered should be appropriately shortened to promote another round of flowering from the lower side branches or flower buds. For flowering trees and shrubs such as white orchid (Michelia alba), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara?), rhododendron (Rhododendron), camellia (Camellia japonica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), crabapple (Malus), etc., in order to promote good plant shape, more flower buds, more flowers, and better flowers in the current or next year, pinch and remove buds on overly vigorous branches to inhibit the growth of the main and side shoots and promote the sprouting of side buds.

    4. Shading

    In June, for those flowering trees and shrubs that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to prevent damage from scorching sunlight. Such as hosta (Hosta plantaginea?), blue plantain lily (Hosta ventricosa?), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), rhododendron (Rhododendron), chloranthus? (Chloranthus?), bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), orchids, palm bamboo (Rhapis excelsa), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), ferns, Philodendron, arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), pink lady leaf?, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), peperomia (Peperomia), Spathiphyllum (green giant?), red (green) gem?, green emperor?, red queen?, fan palm (Livistona), winter daphne (Daphne odora), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), etc. Light-loving flower types must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate, wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha), crape myrtle, jasmine (Jasminum), six-month snow (Serissa japonica), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), peach blossom, Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Japanese bush cherry (Prunus japonica?), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), evergreen holly (Ilex), water willow (Adina rubella?), oak (Quercus?), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), rough-barked pine (Pinus aspera?), white orchid (Michelia alba), Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), mahonia (Mahonia), grape (Vitis), etc.; Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Buddha-belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), hedge bamboo (Bambusa multiplex?), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), bamboo-leaf podocarpus (Podocarpus nagi?), etc., can be given appropriate shading.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis?), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), papaya (Chaenomeles?), firethorn (Pyracantha), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), crabapple (Malus), etc. are prone to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles, and poison sticks should be used promptly to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), climbing rose (Rosa multiflora?), rose (Rosa rugosa), etc. are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot during the plum rain season, and Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed early for control.

(3) White orchid (Michelia alba), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), etc. are prone to aphid damage, and suitable pesticides should be selected early and sprayed to kill them.

(4) Orchid leaves are easily infected by anthracnose, and fungicides such as carbendazim should be sprayed early for control.

(5) For bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara?), lemon, kumquat (Fortunella), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), etc., young leaves are easily eaten by citrus swallowtail larvae, and contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides can be sprayed to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Plant types that can be styled in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance for wiring, and they must be plants potted and hardened off in early spring or field-planted. They are: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Elaeagnus, Huashan pine (Pinus armandii?), Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis?), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), evergreen holly (Ilex), Chinese wolfberry (Lycium chinense), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), hall crabapple (Malus halliana), Midang crabapple (Malus micromalus), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), ornamental peach, trident maple (Acer buergerianum), six-month snow (Serissa japonica), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), small-leaved boxwood (Buxus sinica var. parvifolia), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), tamarisk (Tamarix), water willow (Adina rubella?), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis?), ginkgo, bridal wreath spirea (Spiraea thunbergii?), firethorn (Pyracantha), etc. Styling in June must be careful, with slow wiring and gentle tying; one must not be impatient or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5 Grain in Ear; June 21 Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Manual (July Chapter)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain weather ends in the Huai and Yangtze region. On July 16 the dog days begin, and on August 15 the dog days end. Most parts of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of our country is above 24°C, and in areas south of the Huai and Yangtze rivers it is 28°C. Only in northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau is the average July temperature below 20°C. July flower care management mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria (Pericallis hybrida), fairy primrose (Primula malacoides), ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), campanula (Campanula), etc. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light transmission.
    In July, mature fruits of Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), peach, mountain peach, and elm-leaved spirea? (Prunus triloba), etc. can also be harvested. After washing off the fruit flesh, immediately open a furrow and sow, or store the washed stone fruits in wet sand until they crack before sowing. Wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) seeds can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds extracted from the fruit capsules can be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, and this will not affect their germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    Flowering herbaceous plants suitable for propagation by cuttings in July include: Scutellaria indica, Begonia species, Coleus, Pilea cadierei, Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Gomphrena globosa, Pelargonium, Aster novi-belgii, Lythrum, Cyperus alternifolius, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Plectranthus, Peperomia, Epipremnum pinnatum, Polygonum chinense, Kalanchoe, Epipremnum aureum, and others.
    Woody flowering plants suitable for propagation by cuttings in July include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Nandina domestica, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Euphorbia milii, Hypericum chinense, Hypericum kouytchense, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Weigela florida, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Daphne odora, Gardenia jasminoides, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Magnolia sieboldii, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera octophylla, Mahonia, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Pyracantha, Cordyline fruticosa, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Serissa foetida, Michelia figo, Viburnum odoratissimum, Ficus elastica, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, Buxus species, Ficus carica, Magnolia liliiflora, Osmanthus fragrans, Rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Salix babylonica var. tortuosa, Salix × aureo-pendula, and others. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July some flowering shrubs can also be propagated by water cuttings. These are: Gardenia, Nerium oleander, Rosa chinensis, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Ficus carica, Punica granatum, Fuchsia hybrida, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, and others. To propagate flowering shrubs by water cuttings, first, prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 cm to 2 cm thick, and after punching holes use it as the fixing material for the cuttings; second, keep the water used for cuttings clean, and you can put in a few pieces of charcoal for antisepsis.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old seedling stock of Prunus davidiana or Prunus persica can be used as rootstock, and by bud grafting propagate Prunus persica 'Duplex', Prunus persica 'Densa', Prunus persica 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume, Prunus triloba, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus × blireana, and others; use rooted cuttings of Rosa multiflora, Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis, and 'Shi Zimei' as rootstock to propagate by bud grafting cultivar roses, cut-flower roses, and Rosa rugosa, and others; use potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, and by cleft grafting propagate Michelia alba, Michelia figo, and others; use 2-year-old potted seedling-grown Chimonanthus praecox seedlings as rootstock, and by cleft grafting propagate superior cultivars of Chimonanthus praecox; you can also use 2-year-old Chimonanthus praecox seedlings as rootstock, adopting the method of side grafting of young branches with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm above the ground, and after 7 to 10 days you can judge whether it has survived; use Rhododendron pulchrum 'Zi Hudie' and 'Yu Hudie' as rootstock, and by cleft grafting or side grafting propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; use cherry seedlings as rootstock, and by bud grafting propagate superior cultivars of flowering cherry; use current-year seedling-grown Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, or Malus halliana and Malus spectabilis as rootstock, and carry out "T"-shaped budding to propagate superior cultivars of crabapple types; use Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, and by bagged grafting propagate red maple, laceleaf maple, and other nursery stock.
    4. Layering
    Flowering shrubs that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia odorata (air layering), Chimonanthus praecox, Lonicera japonica, Hydrangea macrophylla, Campsis grandiflora, Viburnum macrocephalum, Nerium oleander, Weigela florida, Caragana sinica, Osmanthus fragrans, Gardenia jasminoides, Magnolia liliiflora, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, climbing roses, Jasminum nudiflorum, and others.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plants that can be divided in July include: Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Acorus species, Cyperus alternifolius, Aspidistra elatior, Rhoeo spathacea, Bromeliads, Haworthia, Chlorophytum comosum, Ophiopogon species, Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Iris, Tradescantia zebrina, and others. II. Seed Collection and Transplanting and Planting Out
    1. Seed collection
    Flower seeds that can be collected in July include: Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Ipomoea, Gypsophila elegans, Petunia hybrida, Phlox drummondii, Digitalis purpurea, Coreopsis tinctoria, Lathyrus odoratus, Bellis perennis, Delphinium ajacis, Viola tricolor, and Lampranthus spectabilis, and others.
    Flowering shrub seeds that can be collected in July include: Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Prunus persica, Prunus davidiana, Prunus triloba, and others.
    2. Transplanting, planting out, and potting up
    July is the main period for potting up flowering herbaceous plants to be displayed during the National Day holiday. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted up at this time can be seedling-grown or cutting-grown plants; after 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom right around the National Day holiday for holiday decoration. They are mainly: Salvia splendens, early chrysanthemums, Gomphrena globosa, Dahlia pinnata, Impatiens hawkeri, Antirrhinum majus, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Kochia scoparia, Callistephus chinensis, Cosmos sulphureus, Celosia cristata, and others.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, transplanting some flowering shrubs with soil balls is also feasible, such as Mahonia, Hypericum chinense, Ligustrum × vicaryi, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Aucuba japonica, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' balls, and others. However, targeted pruning must be done, shade sheds must be set up in time, and the frequency of water spraying must be increased; after they have basically survived, switch to normal management, and never be careless.
III. Flower Management
    1. Watering
For flower species that enter a semi-dormant state at high temperatures, such as Oxalis corymbosa, Pelargonium species, Fuchsia hybrida, Clivia miniata, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Begonia species, Sedum, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Cacti, Haworthia cooperi, Stapelia grandiflora, Senecio rowleyanus, Senecio radicans, Daphne odora, Schlumbergera truncata, Portulacaria afra, Aloe, and others, because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low, so watering should be reduced, the potting soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it is easy to cause root rot in the plants and will also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.
For flower species that enter a deep dormant state at high temperatures, such as Cyclamen persicum, Lycoris species, Ranunculus asiaticus, Dicentra spectabilis, and others, in July they show aboveground stems and leaves withering, and underground nutrient fibrous roots dying back, surviving the summer in dormancy in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For deeply dormant flowers, watering should be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and it is enough to keep the potting soil not too dry.
For flower species growing vigorously, especially foliage plants, such as Cycas revoluta, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Araucaria heterophylla, Maranta species, Syngonium species, Fittonia 'Red (Green) Gem', Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', Calathea roseopicta, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Aucuba japonica, Pyracantha, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus limon, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Punica granatum, Cercis chinensis, Wisteria sinensis, Rosa chinensis, and others, not only should the amount of watering and the frequency of watering be increased, but leaf surface spraying should also be appropriately given, combining spraying and watering. Especially during continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be given, and carelessness must not be allowed. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray water on the leaf surface; after the leaves recover and stand up, then water the roots, and never pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowering plants to "drop green leaves," or cause the rot of the plants' nutrient fibrous roots, and even cause plant death.
For potted plum trunks, because July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves of the potted plant slightly curled inward on both sides to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot has drawn out 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and then pinch off the rest; flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axils of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours before and after noon; watering in the morning before 10 o'clock and after 4 o'clock in the afternoon is suitable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain, and if water accumulates in the pots, pour it out promptly; after the potting soil is slightly dry, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of the potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, fertilizer management should be strengthened for four major categories of ornamental plants. The first is species with a particularly long flowering period, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Michelia denudata, Rosa chinensis, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, and others; the second is species that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemums, Osmanthus fragrans, Hibiscus mutabilis, and others; the third is species for winter flower viewing and fruit appreciation, such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Nandina domestica, Chimonanthus praecox, Rhododendron, and others; the fourth is foliage plants, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Ficus elastica, and others. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to applying necessary nitrogen fertilizer, appropriate phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should also be applied to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for their budding, flowering, and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the fertilizing method, applying thin liquid fertilizer by watering is preferable.
    Herbaceous flowers that should have fertilizer management strengthened in July include: Salvia splendens (white, purple, pink), Celosia cristata, Callistephus chinensis, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, chrysanthemums, Rudbeckia hirta, Petunia hybrida, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Cymbidium ensifolium, Tagetes erecta, Mirabilis jalapa, Antirrhinum majus, and others. Woody flowers include: Lagerstroemia indica, Punica granatum, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Michelia figo, Osmanthus fragrans, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Cestrum nocturnum, Rosa chinensis, Malus species, Brunfelsia acuminata, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, Chimonanthus praecox, Hibiscus syriacus, Hibiscus mutabilis, and others. There are relatively many kinds of foliage plants, such as Bromeliads, Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, Araucaria heterophylla, Syngonium, Maranta, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Fittonia 'Red Gem', Cycas revoluta, Ficus elastica, Monstera deliciosa, Cordyline fruticosa, and others.
   In July, for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, fertilizing must be stopped; especially for succulent ornamental plants such as Sedum species, Senecio articulatus, Lampranthus spectabilis, Stapelia variegata, and others, fertilizing must be stopped even more, to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be tip-pruned and have buds pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means directly removing the young tender terminal buds at the shoot tips with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, Buxus sinica, Chimonanthus praecox, Pyracantha, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Tamarix chinensis, Elaeagnus pungens, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia viridissima, Celtis sinensis, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Fraxinus chinensis, Acer buergerianum, Lagerstroemia indica, Serissa foetida, Murraya paniculata, and others. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of the new shoots, prompting the lower lateral buds to sprout, so that they form beautiful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are inconvenient to pinch with the fingers, such as Juniperus rigida, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis, Sabina procumbens, Xylosma congestum, Ilex cornuta, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', and others.
For those potted flowers that continue blooming for a long time, such as Aglaia odorata, Rosa chinensis, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, and others, their spent flowers and faded stems should be promptly removed, and the branches that have bloomed should be given the necessary shortening pruning, which can prompt the lower lateral buds to sprout and bloom again; for Rhododendron, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Malus, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, and others, the overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened and pruned, so as to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperature of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under shade sheds to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun exposure. Such as ferns, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Monstera deliciosa, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, Strelitzia reginae, orchids, Rhapis excelsa, Ficus elastica, Fittonia 'Red (Green) Gem', Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Calathea roseopicta, Epipremnum aureum, Peperomia species, Aspidistra elatior, Tradescantia zebrina, Dracaena fragrans, Epipremnum pinnatum, Bromeliads, Maranta species, Reineckea carnea, and others.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as Punica granatum, Wisteria sinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Pyracantha, Jasminum sambac, Serissa foetida, Cycas revoluta, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Prunus persica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Pinus thunbergii, Adina rubella, Xylosma congestum, Pinus parviflora, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Rosa chinensis, and others. For Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus nagi, Michelia figo, Damnacanthus indicus, Asparagus setaceus, Rhapis humilis, Pinus parviflora, and others, it is necessary to give appropriate shading.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because this month's temperature is too high and the air is relatively dry, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand; this can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and is also beneficial for protecting the plants' nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, choose flower species whose leaves are more leathery, or whose leaf surfaces have a thicker cuticle, are slightly tolerant of dry environments, and have strong resistance, such as Ficus elastica, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia, Cycas revoluta, Araucaria heterophylla, Malvaviscus arboreus, Livistona chinensis, Rhapis excelsa, Phoenix canariensis, Bromeliads, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera octophylla, Aspidistra elatior, Aucuba japonica, and others, while it is not advisable to choose Nephrolepis cordifolia, Coleus, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, and others. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioner vents, to prevent the wind from directly blowing on the plants, causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf edges to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tip parts are easily infected by anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant, and in severe cases can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are even more favorable to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the disease period spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the stumps or main trunks of Prunus mume, Prunus persica, Malus species, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', flowering cherry, Prunus triloba, and others, it is mostly caused by the larvae of Aromia bungii feeding. Methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of poison sticks, and soil application of carbofuran can be used for control, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the tree trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, avoid dimethoate, omethoate, and others, to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the box tree leaf roller moth that harms Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Buxus henryi, and Buxus sempervirens. When this pest occurs severely, it can completely eat all the leaves bare. Once discovered, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and has caused resistance, switch to a new type of pesticide.
(4) In July, in some areas, the larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly will continue to harm the leaves of new shoots of Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', kumquat, Glycine max, Citrus medica, lemon, Citrus wilsonii, and Ruta graveolens, and stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) For the wax scale insect that harms Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Ligustrum sinense, and Fraxinus chinensis, late July to late August is its emergence period, and the right timing should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the wax scale insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest harming Euonymus japonicus, Platanus orientalis, Pittosporum tobira, Camellia japonica, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Cedrus deodara, and others, and in severe cases the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai Shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, the air humidity is low, and the plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches that are damaged are prone to infection by pathogens and difficult to heal and recover, so most tree stump species are no longer suitable for wiring and shaping. Those that can still be shaped are some plant species with strong adaptability and tolerance for wiring, and the plants are required to be those potted in spring for hardening off or planted in the ground. They are: Jasminum nudiflorum, Ginkgo biloba, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Thujopsis dolabrata, Calocedrus macrolepis, Serissa foetida, Pinus thunbergii, Buxus sinica, Adina rubella, and others.
    In July, plant shaping must be done carefully and meticulously, wiring gently and slowly, applying force gradually, and one must not operate hastily or use too much force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plant's branches and trunk to break, endangering its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Manual: Autumn

Flower Planting Manual (August Volume)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display
    August has high temperatures, strong light, and low humidity, and is the high-temperature dry-hot period second only to July in the year. The monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for display in the courtyard are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among the woody flowers are mainly: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Pinus parviflora, Pseudolarix amabilis, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Pinus armandii, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Cycas revoluta, Phoenix canariensis, Fagraea ceilanolanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Aglaia odorata, Punica granatum, Ficus elastica, Ficus benjamina, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Lantana camara, Erythrina variegata, Yucca elephantipes, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, Pachira aquatica, Schefflera actinophylla, Plumeria rubra, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Nerium oleander, Washingtonia robusta, Trachycarpus fortunei, Mascarena lagenicaulis, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ginkgo biloba, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Rosa chinensis, and others. Herbaceous flowers include: Impatiens balsamina, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet variegata, Salvia splendens, Dahlia pinnata, Callistephus chinensis, Begonia maculata, Antirrhinum majus, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Phlox drummondii, Capsicum annuum, Eschscholzia californica, Celosia cristata, Calendula officinalis, Lycoris radiata, Catharanthus roseus, Gomphrena globosa, Cosmos sulphureus, Mirabilis jalapa, Zinnia elegans, and others. In addition, there are Aspidistra elatior, Aglaonema modestum, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Epipremnum aureum, Aglaonema commutatum, and others.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: Paeonia suffruticosa, Prunus triloba, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Calycanthus chinensis, Calycanthus floridus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, and others. They can be sown as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Phoenix canariensis can be sand-stored to promote germination and then sown in bags. For ornamental-fruited pomegranate, collect after the fruit ripens and cracks, rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, sand-store until germination, and then sow. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Gypsophila elegans, Chamaelirium luteum, Petunia hybrida, Antirrhinum majus, Echinacea purpurea, Oxalis species, Achillea millefolium, Tropaeolum majus, Tanacetum cinerariifolium, and others. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: Calceolaria, Cyclamen persicum, Pericallis × hybrida, Begonia semperflorens-cultorum, Primula obconica, Coleus, Calendula officinalis, and others.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed substrate of alkaline-leached rice husk ash and wet fine sand in a 2:1 ratio for moisture-retentive bed cuttings or pot cuttings, the following flowering shrubs can be propagated: Pyracantha, Mahonia species, Chimonanthus praecox, Michelia figo, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Erythrina variegata, Aglaia odorata, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Ficus elastica, Pittosporum tobira, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Schefflera species, Cordyline fruticosa, Hydrangea macrophylla, Magnolia liliiflora, and others. Using yellow subsoil or sandy loam as the substrate, cuttings can be made of Buxus species, Punica granatum, Hibiscus syriacus, French holly, Ligustrum ovalifolium 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Nandina domestica, Ficus carica, Nerium oleander, Lagerstroemia indica, Serissa foetida, Spiraea, Spiraea thunbergii, Gardenia jasminoides, and others. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Cosmos sulphureus, and others can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flowering shrubs can be grafted: in northern regions, use Chionanthus retusus as rootstock and cleft graft Osmanthus fragrans; use Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata as rootstock and bud graft Magnolia × soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as rootstock and cleft graft Michelia alba; use current-year seedlings of Prunus persica as rootstock and bud graft Prunus mume, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Prunus persica 'Densa', Prunus persica 'Atropurpurea', Prunus triloba 'Multiplex', Prunus triloba, and others; use cherry seedlings as rootstock and bud graft Japanese flowering cherry; use Rosa multiflora, Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis, and others as rootstock and bud graft superior cultivar roses; use seedlings of Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, Malus hupehensis, and others as rootstock and bud graft Malus micromalus and Malus halliana; use Acer palmatum as rootstock and crown-change graft red maple, laceleaf maple; use single-trunk Ficus elastica as rootstock and cleft graft Ficus benjamina 'Variegata'; use single-petal camellia as rootstock and cleft graft superior cultivars of Camellia japonica; use seedling-grown Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock and cleft graft or approach graft superior cultivars of Chimonanthus praecox flowers. In addition, Wisteria floribunda can also be propagated by cleft grafting.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: Lonicera japonica, Campsis grandiflora, Rosa banksiae, climbing roses, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, Nerium oleander, Gardenia jasminoides, Caragana sinica, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Osmanthus species, Magnolia liliiflora, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia figo, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Viburnum odoratissimum, Ficus elastica (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), and others.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron 'Green Emperor' multi-headed, Bromeliads, Polygonatum odoratum, Aspidistra elatior, Cyperus alternifolius, Adina pilulifera, Fittonia 'Red (Green) Gem', Iris, Belamcanda chinensis, Oxalis triangularis, Aglaonema modestum, Aster novi-belgii, Acorus gramineus, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Aglaonema commutatum, Maranta species, Syngonium, Haworthia, and others. In addition, Lycoris radiata, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Freesia, and others can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of Courtyard Ground-Planted Flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when transplanted with large soil balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, shading, watering, spraying, and other management should be strengthened after transplanting, and a relatively high survival rate can be obtained, such as Ligustrum × vicaryi, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea Nana', Buxus sinica 'Aureovariegata', Hypericum chinense, Mahonia, Fatsia japonica, Rosa chinensis, Rhododendron, Gardenia jasminoides, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Michelia figo, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' balls, Sabina komarovii balls, Buxus balls, Punica granatum, Hibiscus syriacus, Aucuba japonica, French holly, and others. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and planted out, such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Celosia cristata, Tagetes patula, Antirrhinum majus, and others, and they can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, for courtyard hedges such as Buxus, Ligustrum quihoui, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum × vicaryi, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, and others, pruning should continue to be given. For ground-planted balls, such as Photinia, Sabina chinensis, Sabina komarovii, Myrica rubra, Pyracantha, Pittosporum tobira, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, and others, pruning must also be done again. For ground-planted flowering shrubs that continue blooming for a long time, such as Rosa chinensis, Punica granatum, Hibiscus syriacus, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Lantana camara, and others, spent flowers should be promptly removed, and the branch tips should be appropriately shortened. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, early chrysanthemums, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, and others, tip pruning and bud pinching should be given.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and herbaceous flowers planted out, watering and spraying management should be strengthened. For plants with straw ropes tied around the trunks, the straw ropes should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Spray more water and water cautiously, ensuring no water accumulation at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for ground-planted Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Buxus sinica 'Aureovariegata', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum × vicaryi, Prunus × cistena, Codiaeum variegatum, Acalypha wilkesiana, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Alpinia zerumbet variegata, and others, in order to keep the leaf color bright for a long time, quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For species that continue blooming, such as Rosa chinensis, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Punica granatum var. pleniflorum, Hibiscus syriacus, Lagerstroemia indica, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Dahlia pinnata, Lantana camara, and others, as well as species about to bloom, such as Osmanthus fragrans, chrysanthemums, Hibiscus mutabilis, Anemone hupehensis, and others, appropriate quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly by watering. For Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, and others in the midst of flower bud differentiation, a small amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed by foliar topdressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on Cedrus deodara, Ligustrum lucidum, Pittosporum tobira, Osmanthus fragrans, Lagerstroemia indica, Photinia, Camellia japonica, and other plants, promptly spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control. For chrysanthemum beetles, aphids, and others occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution can be sprayed to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawflies and tobacco cutworms that gnaw on rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: Paeonia suffruticosa, Prunus triloba, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Calycanthus chinensis, and others. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: Paeonia lactiflora, Portulaca grandiflora, Mirabilis jalapa, Phlox drummondii, Eschscholzia californica, and Cerastium tomentosum, and others.
Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In August, water between 9 and 10 in the morning and after 4 in the afternoon, keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For those ornamental plant species that prefer acidity, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as Calceolaria, Sinningia speciosa, Begonia masoniana, Begonia rex, and others, water droplets that fall on the leaf surface are not easy to evaporate and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera jamesonii and the center of the leaf rosette of Clivia miniata also must not be drenched with water, because dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for Bromeliads, water must be given sparingly and misting done more, and water should be poured into the leaf tanks to meet their needs. This month, while watering and misting potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to harden. For flower species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, control watering and misting, keeping the potting soil only slightly moist, and you can create a relatively cool and moist environment for them by misting the small environment around the flower pots.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Ficus elastica, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, Fittonia 'Red (Green) Gem', Araucaria heterophylla, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Phoenix roebelenii, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Livistona chinensis, Epipremnum aureum, Dracaena fragrans, Yucca elephantipes, Pachira aquatica, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Schefflera, Fagraea ceilanolanica (African jasmine), Cinnamomum kotoense (Ping'an wood), Pachira aquatica (dragon-phoenix wood), Syngonium, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', Euphorbia pulcherrima, Calathea roseopicta, Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica, Chamaedorea elegans, Codiaeum variegatum, Fatsia japonica, and others, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with long flowering periods, such as Rosa chinensis, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Lagerstroemia indica, Punica granatum var. pleniflorum, Aglaia odorata, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Bougainvillea spectabilis, Lantana camara, and others, as well as fruit-appreciating Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus medica, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, Diospyros armata, Punica granatum var. pleniflorum, Nandina domestica, Chaenomeles sinensis, and others, in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, appropriate quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate and others. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, early chrysanthemums, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Antirrhinum majus, Callistephus chinensis, chrysanthemums, dwarf sunflowers, and others, apply thin liquid fertilizer once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For woody flower species in the midst of flower bud differentiation, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Osmanthus fragrans, Rhododendron, and others, low-concentration phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should be applied to the foliage. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip on the leaves, so as to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, after fertilizing, promptly mist the foliage once to wash off any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, such as Clivia miniata, Begonia semperflorens-cultorum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Daphne odora, Aloe, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Portulacaria afra, Schlumbergera truncata, Sedum species, Oxalis triangularis, Cacti, Echinopsis species, and others, all forms of topdressing must be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plants to rot at the roots or die.
3. Shading. In August, the heat is still intense, and shading management for courtyard potted flowers is still very important. For those ornamental plant species that prefer coolness, such as Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Syngonium podophyllum, Ficus elastica, Dypsis lutescens, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, Maranta species, Fittonia 'Red (Green) Gem', Rhapis excelsa, Epipremnum aureum, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', orchids, Calathea roseopicta, Peperomia, Bromeliads, Adina pilulifera, Pilea peperomioides, ferns, Bambusa ventricosa, Bambusa multiplex, Chlorophytum comosum, Reineckea carnea, Chamaedorea elegans, Fittonia, Gynura aurantiaca, Ludisia discolor, Aglaonema commutatum, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Begonia species, Dracaena sanderiana, Aspidistra elatior, Asparagus setaceus, Hosta ventricosa, and others, continue to give shade shed covering; pull on the shade net at 9 in the morning and remove it after 4 in the afternoon. If the number of potted flowers is not large, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours before and after noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and then moved out from under the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue to give tip pruning or pruning to those tree stump bonsai that grow vigorously, tolerate pruning, and sprout easily, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, and others. For Rosa chinensis, Punica granatum var. pleniflorum, Aglaia odorata, and others, after each flowering, carry out shortening pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and disbudding?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterflies, rose sawflies, and Aromia bungii. Attach importance to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight, and others. Attach importance to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers, and others.
Potted Plants Suitable for Balcony Display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and hot, dry air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or that have long been placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Pinus parviflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Punica granatum, Punica granatum var. pleniflorum, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis stumps, Sabina chinensis, Sabina procumbens, Xylosma congestum, Fraxinus chinensis, Carmona retusa, Rosa chinensis, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Agave americana, Lantana camara, Ginkgo biloba, Jasminum sambac, Aglaia odorata, Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, and others. In August, part of the flowering shrubs on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda, Oncidium, Zamia furfuracea, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Fittonia 'Red (Green) Gem', Maranta, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Syngonium podophyllum, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Epipremnum aureum, Rhapis excelsa, Pachira aquatica, Clivia miniata, Fuchsia hybrida, Fittonia, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, Fatsia japonica, and others.
Propagation of Balcony Flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots, cover with plastic film, and keep moist to take cuttings of some ornamental plants. The cutting substrate can be a mixture of rice husk ash and fine sand in a 2:1 ratio, or vermiculite can be used alone. Ornamental plant species that can be cut include: Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Begonia maculata, Gardenia jasminoides, Pachystachys lutea, Plectranthus, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline fruticosa, Jasminum sambac, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema commutatum, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Michelia figo, and others. For the 5 to 6 hours before and after noon, they should be moved indoors. Indoors, some ornamental plants can also be propagated by water cuttings, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Rosa chinensis, Gardenia, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica, Ficus carica, Cordyline fruticosa, Plumeria rubra, Pelargonium, Aglaonema modestum, Fuchsia hybrida, and others.
Management of Balcony Flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and misting balcony potted flowers should be done carefully and cautiously. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and misting, which can be done before 10 in the morning and after 4 in the afternoon; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the needs of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, bricks can be used to build a simple sand pool, put in 10 cm of wet sand, and then place some potted flowers that are relatively moisture-loving on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Syngonium podophyllum, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Syngonium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Bromeliads, Fittonia 'Red (Green) Gem', Chloranthus spicatus, and others. Usually use misting instead of watering, which is very beneficial for their safe summering. For Cymbidium hybridum, Cymbidium hookerianum, Oncidium, Cattleya, Fuchsia hybrida, Dendrobium, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, and others, they can be moved to an air-conditioned room, using misting instead of watering, to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively high-temperature-tolerant, such as Rosa chinensis, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Punica granatum, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Buxus sinica, Acer buergerianum, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Wisteria sinensis, Carmona retusa, Adina rubella, Agave americana, Cycas revoluta, and others, water 1 to 2 times a day and mist 1 to 2 times.
2. Fertilizing. In August, stop fertilizing balcony potted plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state. For vigorously growing foliage plants, spray or apply 0.3% urea solution, or scatter multi-element compound fertilizer granules on the pot surface. For flowering shrubs mainly for flower and fruit appreciation, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Pyracantha, Citrus medica, kumquat, and others, continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. For Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Carmona retusa, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, and others, after each pruning, apply a thin fertilizer once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai such as Pinus parviflora, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Carmona retusa, Prunus mume, Acer buergerianum, and others, cover the pot surface with soft grass, moss, or wet cloth, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature, and protect the plants' nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, shade netting can be used to block light. If there are not many and relatively precious potted flowering shrubs on the balcony, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours before and after noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Serissa foetida, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma congestum, small Myrica rubra, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Ligustrum quihoui, Buxus sinica, Pyracantha, and others, tip pruning or pruning is still needed this month. For spent flowers, faded stems, dead branches, and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be promptly cut off.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and should be promptly sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowering shrubs, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, it is suitable to spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution.

Flower Planting Manual (September Volume)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display
In September, temperatures in most parts of China slowly decline, with monthly average temperatures between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are relatively many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among the woody ornamental plant species are: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus parviflora, Pseudolarix amabilis, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus nagi, Cycas revoluta, Phoenix canariensis, Macrozamia, Fagraea ceilanolanica, Cinnamomum species, Osmanthus fragrans, Punica granatum, Ficus elastica, Ficus benjamina, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Hibiscus mutabilis, Yucca elephantipes, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Schefflera actinophylla, Rhapis excelsa, Plumeria rubra, Mascarena lagenicaulis, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ginkgo biloba, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Trachycarpus fortunei, Rosa chinensis, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, red maple, Zamia furfuracea, Picea species, Schefflera octophylla, Garcinia subelliptica, Bambusa ventricosa, Grevillea robusta, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Murraya paniculata, Schefflera, Nandina domestica, and others. Herbaceous flowers include: Canna generalis, Salvia splendens, early chrysanthemums, Begonia maculata, Tagetes erecta, Capsicum annuum, Lycoris radiata, Catharanthus roseus, Gomphrena globosa, Dahlia pinnata, Antirrhinum majus, and others.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: Paeonia suffruticosa, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, Aesculus species, Calycanthus chinensis, Phoenix canariensis, and others. Among them, Aesculus seeds can be sown in furrows, and when sowing, the hilum should face down, and the covering soil should not be too deep, with 2 to 2.5 cm being suitable; cover with plastic film or straw for moisture retention. Calycanthus chinensis seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours and then sown in the ground, and seedlings can emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except that Calycanthus chinensis can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, all the other species above must be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: Alcea rosea, Dianthus chinensis, Silene armeria, Silene pendula, Viola tricolor, Antirrhinum majus, Petunia hybrida, Eschscholzia californica, Bellis perennis, Papaver rhoeas, Calendula officinalis, Rudbeckia hirta, Iris, Verbena hybrida, and others. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as Cyclamen persicum, Primula, Tropaeolum, Pericallis × hybrida, Begonia semperflorens-cultorum, Gerbera jamesonii, Calceolaria, can also be sown at this time, but they must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice husk ash as the cutting substrate, flowering shrubs that can be propagated by moisture-retentive cuttings in the courtyard include: Pyracantha, Mahonia, Michelia figo, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Weigela florida, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Fuchsia hybrida, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, Weigela florida, Brunfelsia acuminata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Odontonema strictum, Plectranthus, Ficus elastica, Schefflera octophylla, Cordyline fruticosa, and others. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: Buxus species, Magnolia liliiflora, Hypericum chinense, Spiraea, Punica granatum, Hibiscus syriacus, Lagerstroemia indica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hydrangea macrophylla, French holly, Ligustrum ovalifolium 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Nandina domestica, Ficus carica, Nerium oleander, Serissa foetida, Gardenia jasminoides, Fatsia japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Paeonia suffruticosa, and others. Some herbaceous flowers can also be cut, such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Cosmos sulphureus, winter chrysanthemums, and others.
3. Grafting. The following flowering shrubs can be grafted and propagated: use root segments of Paeonia lactiflora as rootstock and graft superior cultivars of Paeonia suffruticosa; use seedlings of Prunus persica, apricot, and others as rootstock and bud graft Prunus triloba, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Prunus persica 'Densa', Prunus persica 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume, and others; use Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock and bagged moisture-retentive cleft graft red maple, laceleaf maple, and others; use Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock and bud graft superior cultivars of Magnolia denudata and Magnolia × soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as rootstock and cleft graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedlings as rootstock and bud graft kumquat, and others; use Chionanthus retusus as rootstock and cleft graft Osmanthus fragrans; use potted seedling-grown Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock and cleft graft superior cultivars of Chimonanthus praecox.
4. Layering. Ornamental flowering shrub species that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Gardenia jasminoides, Nerium oleander, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliiflora, Jasminum sambac, Michelia figo, Camellia japonica, Chloranthus spicatus, French holly, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea, and others.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Paeonia lactiflora, Paeonia suffruticosa, Aglaonema modestum, Oxalis triangularis, Rudbeckia laciniata, Sansevieria trifasciata, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron 'Green Emperor' multi-headed, Aglaonema commutatum, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Nandina domestica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Magnolia liliiflora, Liriope platyphylla, Aspidistra elatior, Liriope muscari, and others. In addition, Hyacinthus orientalis, Tulipa, Freesia, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Lycoris radiata, Scilla peruviana, and others can also have their daughter bulbs divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of Courtyard Ground-Planted Flowers
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there is a special need, flowering shrubs are generally not transplanted in the courtyard. If for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out on the premise that soil balls are well kept. Species such as: Nerium oleander, Sabina chinensis, Michelia figo, Sabina komarovii, Osmanthus fragrans, Camellia japonica, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum × vicaryi, Buxus species, Hypericum chinense, French holly, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', and others. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and strengthening watering, misting, and shading management, only then can transplanting be ensured to be completely safe. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted up for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Antirrhinum majus, Celosia cristata, Catharanthus roseus, Cosmos sulphureus, Dahlia pinnata, Calendula officinalis, dwarf Canna, early chrysanthemums, and others.
2. Pruning. Continue pruning vigorously growing courtyard hedges and topiary ornamental plants with strong sprouting ability; this is also the last pruning of the year for topiary plants in northern regions during the growing season. Courtyard hedges and color-block tree species suitable for pruning mainly include: boxwood species, French holly, Photinia davidsoniana, privet, small-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, etc. Topiary ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: dragon juniper, Chinese juniper, boxwood, Chinese bayberry, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Photinia, Pittosporum tobira, firethorn, Forsythia, etc. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be pinched back include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, Kochia scoparia, marigold, French marigold, etc. Pinching should be done once every 10 days to promote a full, dense plant shape and to encourage more flower clusters on lateral shoots; stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowering plants that bloom continuously over a long period, such as hybrid roses, floribunda roses, miniature roses, climbing roses, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Lantana camara, Bougainvillea spectabilis, etc., promptly cut off spent flowers and withered stems, and moderately shorten the branches that have flowered, which can effectively promote reblooming.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year, continuing to do a good job of watering and misting is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, mist the straw ropes wrapped around the trunks to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunks; third, mist the canopy to reduce leaf transpiration and increase local humidity. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to maintain moisture.
4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, red maple, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, shell ginger, croton, spotted aucuba, red mulberry, red-leaf dwarf cherry, red-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, etc., in order to keep their leaf color fresh and vivid, appropriately apply additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For ground-planted flowering trees and shrubs that bloom continuously or are grown in autumn for flowers and fruit, such as crape myrtle, roses, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', calamondin, flowering pomegranate, Bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, Lantana camara, nandina, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, etc., as well as large numbers of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, it is advisable to apply quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, and orange osmanthus that are currently blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth harming crape myrtle, firethorn, crabapple, and other flowering trees, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution for control; for the citrus longhorned beetle harming crape myrtle, papaya, and crabapple, insert poison picks into the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on rose and chrysanthemum plants, apply 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution in the early stage of disease onset for control.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants from which seeds can be collected are mainly flowering trees of the Magnoliaceae family, such as Oyama magnolia, Michelia figo, purple magnolia, white magnolia, Magnolia wilsonii, Michelia chapensis, Michelia multiflora, Michelia maudiae, southern magnolia, etc. In addition, there are also buckeye species, crape myrtle, lilac, crabapple species, redbud, Exochorda racemosa, Taxus chinensis, Chimonanthus nitens, etc. For Magnoliaceae, Taxus chinensis, buckeye, crabapple, etc., after treatment the seeds must be stored in wet sand until early next spring, and sown after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, garden balsam, four-o'clock, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, China aster, etc. After collection, thresh promptly and store dry until spring for sowing.
Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In September, light is strong, temperatures are high, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers must not be neglected. Regarding watering frequency: for generally moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month water or mist once in the morning and once in the afternoon; in the second half of the month, reduce to once a day, with appropriate misting of the leaves. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves. Water before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidic conditions, add a small amount of 0.1% light-green ferrous sulfate powder to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after autumn following summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or misting). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is the period of vigorous growth for most flowers. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as temperatures gradually cool, so fertilization management should be highly prioritized this month. For foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Pachira aquatica, Dracaena fragrans, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix tree), Norfolk Island pine, Caryota mitis, pothos, red (green) gem, green emperor, silver queen, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, Ficus lyrata, etc., still mainly use low-concentration dilute fertilizer liquid, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flowering trees with a very long flowering period or a peak flowering period in autumn, such as roses, Lantana camara, Lantana montevidensis, pomegranate, crape myrtle, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', osmanthus, etc.; fruiting plants such as bitter orange, nandina, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, papaya, golden bullet tree, Callicarpa, fruiting pomegranate, etc.; colorful foliage plants such as croton, spotted aucuba, bromeliads, variegated Ficus, golden-edged Dracaena fragrans, Cordyline fruticosa, coleus, etc., should be given additional fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For Fuchsia, geranium, calla lily, cyclamen, Begonia semperflorens, Daphne odora, Christmas cactus, Sedum species, Portulacaria afra (jade leaf), Oxalis triangularis, Clivia, Epiphyllum, etc., which are resuming growth, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be resumed; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the bud enlargement stage, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, Michelia figo, rhododendron, etc., low-concentration balanced fertilizer can be applied; for potted herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, marigold, chrysanthemum, China aster, dahlia, dwarf sunflower, etc., apply a thin fertilizer once every 10 days to meet the needs of bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, temperatures are high and sunlight is still intense, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For shade-loving foliage plant species such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Boston fern, bird's nest fern, Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, pothos, Rhapis excelsa, green emperor, silver queen, orchid grass, pink lady leaf, Arecastrum romanzoffianum, Aspidistra elatior, begonia, Epipremnum pinnatum, little angel, red (green) gem, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia, Pachystachys lutea, asparagus fern, Schefflera octophylla, variegated Pteris, Peperomia argyreia, Dieffenbachia, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Anthurium, staghorn fern, Pilea peperomioides, Adina pilulifera, king palm, lucky bamboo, etc., provide 5 to 6 hours of light per day through shading; for light-loving species such as trident maple, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, ginkgo, water willow, black pine, arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, Norfolk Island pine, wisteria, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, firethorn, roses, oak, Chinese fringe tree, etc., full sunlight can be given; for semi-shade-loving species such as Buddhist pine, five-needle pine, tiger thorn, red phoenix, Loropetalum, epiphyllum, nandina, jade tree, rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, finger citron, bitter orange, kumquat, etc., appropriate shading can be given around noon. Newly transplanted potted autumn herbaceous flowers should also be appropriately shaded to prevent wilting and to avoid affecting their recovery.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue bud removal and disbudding; for roses, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus, Bougainvillea, Lantana camara, Pachystachys lutea, coral flower, etc., prune after each flowering; for tree stump bonsai species that tolerate pruning, sprout easily, and grow vigorously, such as Chinese elm, plum yew, trident maple, Fujian tea, banyan, red phoenix, small-leaf privet, water willow, boxwood, arborvitae (stump), true cypress, Chinese fringe tree, tamarisk, etc., continue pruning or bud pinching. In addition, Pachira aquatica seedlings can be braided into a "braid" and potted up.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorned beetle appearing on potted plum, crabapple, longevity peach, ornamental peach, etc., poison picks can be inserted to block and kill, or carbofuran granules can be buried for control. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, felt scale, etc., appearing on potted flowering trees, use 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.
Potted Plants Suitable for Balcony Display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have been placed on the balcony for a long time or relatively resistant potted flowering trees can adapt to the special balcony environment. These are: black pine, Japanese black pine, red pine, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, plum yew, water willow, trident maple, Chinese holly, wintergreen, wintersweet, fruiting pomegranate, boxwood, arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, Chinese fringe tree, banyan, Bougainvillea, roses, agave, ginkgo, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, hackberry, Buddhist pine, Siberian elm, June snow, firethorn, Lantana camara, etc. For some flower species that prefer cool environments, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium, Oncidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda, spider orchid, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium, Clivia, Fuchsia, Fittonia, etc.; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, pothos, Aspidistra elatior, Areca palm, Caryota mitis, king coconut, Chengkung tree, spotted aucuba, Schefflera octophylla, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers: In September, on the balcony, large-diameter flower pots can continue to be used as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of half rice chaff ash and half wet sand, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, for cuttings propagation of some ornamental plants, such as gardenia, Cordyline fruticosa, spotted aucuba, Schefflera octophylla, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus, jasmine, red-backed Excoecaria, coral flower, Pachystachys lutea, Michelia figo, silver queen Aglaonema, etc. Water cuttings can also be done indoors for Schefflera octophylla, roses, gardenia, fig, Aglaonema, etc.
Management of Balcony Flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer moisture, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, little angel, Chloranthus, bromeliads, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats over a balcony water pool or water tank, or placed in a self-built simple sand pool, usually misting instead of watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, mist more and water less to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, mist at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even relatively drought-tolerant five-needle pine bonsai will dehydrate and die if not watered or misted for 5 to 7 days. For relatively resistant potted ornamental plants placed on the balcony, continue watering once a day and misting 1 to 2 times, or use the immersion method to prevent the potting soil from being wet on top and dry below. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, be careful that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light-green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, appropriately apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for vigorously growing potted stumps, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once after each pinching or pruning; for potted flowering trees grown mainly for flowers and fruit, such as Michelia alba, roses, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, Chloranthus, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, kumquat, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose buds are enlarging, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, osmanthus, chrysanthemum, etc., appropriately apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a balanced nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer according to the species. The types of fertilizer applied to flowers on the balcony should not have an unusual odor, especially not a foul smell, and care should be taken not to splash downstairs when applying; operate carefully.
3. Shading. For tree stump bonsai and potted flowers on the balcony that receive full sunlight, in order to reduce watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when there are not many potted flowers, move them indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, plum yew, water willow, boxwood, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, small-leaf privet, Chinese fringe tree, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowering trees, dead branches, yellow leaves, spent flowers, and withered stems should also be promptly removed.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperatures and dry air, and potted flowering trees are most prone to red spider mite damage; use 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution for spraying; for the double-striped cedar longhorned beetle appearing on dragon juniper, Chinese juniper, and Sabina chinensis bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorned beetle appearing on plum, crabapple, papaya, longevity peach, etc., continue to insert poison picks or bury carbofuran for control; for various scale insects harming Camellia japonica, firethorn, crape myrtle, wintersweet, etc., when the number is small, they can be wiped off manually; when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October Edition)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display

    In October, temperatures drop across most of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month there are many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among them, woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, Japanese golden larch, whitebark pine, Japanese fir, spruce species, Buddhist pine, bamboo-leaf podocarp, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Dutch iron, Fagraea ceilanica, Lanyu cinnamon, osmanthus, cotton rose, rubber tree, Schefflera octophylla, variegated Ficus, Chinese hibiscus, golden larch, croton, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Rhapis excelsa, ponytail palm, Mahonia bealei, Japanese aralia, spotted aucuba, thick-leaf fig, Caryota mitis, Areca palm, king coconut, Cordyline fruticosa, beautiful phoenix palm, Ficus lyrata, desert rose, South American cycad, Fukugi, large Buddha-belly bamboo, red maple, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Luko tree, orange jasmine, nandina, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: scarlet sage, large-flowered canna, dahlia, China aster, chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, bamboo-node begonia, dragon's mouth flower, French marigold, marigold, five-color pepper, cockscomb, pot marigold, periwinkle, globe amaranth, petunia, Guinea impatiens, etc. Note: In North China, Northeast China, and other places, when temperatures drop below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flowers grown in the north.

Propagation of Courtyard Flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flowering plant species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, Michelia species, magnolia species, manglietia species, buckeye species, summer wintersweet, rich seed, soapberry, kuding tea, Buddhist pine, bamboo-leaf podocarp, French holly, Du Ying, beautiful phoenix palm, Taxus chinensis, Chinese fan palm, privet, small-leaf privet, camphor, Weigela florida, palm, pond cypress, etc. Among them, when sowing buckeye, the hilum should face downward; before sowing summer wintersweet, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except for summer wintersweet and Weigela florida seeds, which can be stored dry until spring sowing, the other species can have their seeds cleaned and stored in wet sand to promote germination until the seeds crack and show white in spring before sowing. Note that seeds should be rinsed clean before storage for germination; the moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when squeezed in the hand and disperses when released; the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During storage and germination, seeds should be checked frequently to prevent drying out or mold. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, mallow, corn poppy, pot marigold, snapdragon, Dianthus species, pansy, Boston ivy, blackberry lily, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, California poppy, daisy, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium, gloxinia, petunia, cineraria, four-season primrose, African daisy, and pocketbook flower can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flowering plant species that can be propagated by cuttings include: red-backed Excoecaria, Schefflera octophylla, night-blooming jasmine, Lantana camara, firethorn, Mahonia, finger citron, clerodendrum, Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia figo, aucuba, Chinese hibiscus, Bougainvillea, jasmine, Chloranthus, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui', gardenia, Weigela florida, oak-leaf hydrangea, red-flowered spiraea, snow spray, Hypericum, red-leaf plum, roses, Viburnum macrocephalum, crape myrtle, hibiscus, oleander, fig, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow heart soil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice chaff ash, using fully closed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for some southern flowering trees propagated by cuttings, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, Begonia semperflorens, bamboo-node begonia, Tradescantia zebrina, golden pothos, Pilea cadierei, coral flower, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, Pachystachys lutea, cold chrysanthemum, etc. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft five-needle pine (including Osaka pine) and Japanese black pine with moisture retention; use peony roots as rootstock to graft excellent varieties of tree peony; use one-year-old Japanese maple seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft red maple, feather maple, etc. with moisture retention; use one-year-old white magnolia seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft excellent varieties of white magnolia, Yulan magnolia, red-flowered magnolia, etc.; use triangular cactus as rootstock to graft various cactus balls; use one-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft kumquat.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be propagated by ground layering include: Camellia japonica, plum blossom, Weigela florida, hydrangea, Weigela, Chaenomeles speciosa, August osmanthus, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, purple magnolia, gardenia, Hypericum, French holly, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Michelia figo, snow spray, red-flowered spiraea, etc.

    5. Division. Woody flowering plant species that can be propagated by division include: nandina, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia, tree peony, Chaenomeles speciosa, oak-leaf hydrangea, double-flowered kerria, spray flower, spiraea, sago palm, etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: peony, hosta, Cymbidium goeringii, purple hosta, bird of paradise, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, ranunculus, Rudbeckia, iris, blackberry lily, lily of the valley, Aglaonema, silver queen Aglaonema, Oxalis triangularis, multi-head green emperor, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Aspidistra elatior, etc. Flower species that can be propagated by dividing bulbs include: calla lily, amaryllis, freesia, Lycoris, tulip, Mediterranean bluebell, etc.

Management of Courtyard Ground-planted Flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after Frost's Descent arrives and leaves fall, such as hibiscus, redbud, elm-leaved spirea, pomegranate, lilac, red-leaf plum, purple magnolia, ornamental peach, longevity peach, floribunda rose, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, nandina, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui', gardenia, large-leaf boxwood, boxwood, Chinese box, etc., when transplanting: first, shorten-prune before transplanting; second, carry a good soil ball; third, strengthen watering and misting management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted out include: Dianthus, daisy, hollyhock, ornamental kale, pansy, pot marigold, verbena, phlox, snapdragon, autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, etc. Bulbous flower species that can be planted in the ground include: narcissus, pheasant's eye narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for courtyard hedges and topiary plants, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, red-flowered Loropetalum, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, golden-edged boxwood, large-leaf boxwood, boxwood, French holly, privet, Photinia davidsoniana, small-leaf privet, etc. Topiary plants needing pruning include: dragon juniper, boxwood, Chinese bayberry, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Photinia, Pittosporum tobira, firethorn, etc. For continuously blooming ground-planted flowering trees in the courtyard, such as roses, crape myrtle, Lantana camara, Bougainvillea, etc., continue to cut off spent flowers and withered stems, and moderately shorten the branches that have flowered. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as scarlet sage, marigold, globe amaranth, etc., promptly cut off the open flower clusters to encourage lateral shoots to continue producing buds and blooming, thereby extending the ornamental period.

    3. Watering. For newly planted courtyard flowering trees of the year, continue to do a good job of watering and misting: first, keep the root soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, continue misting the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to maintain moisture.

    4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, apply quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium; for osmanthus species that have already flowered, dig ring-shaped trenches and bury base fertilizer; for roses, crabapple, crape myrtle, cotton rose, Camellia japonica, Michelia figo, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. that have been pruned, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for nandina and firethorn in the fruit-viewing stage, as well as southern finger citron, kumquat, bitter orange, golden bullet tree, etc., appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which can effectively extend the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted plum, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, crabapple, etc., continue to use poison picks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them, and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species from which seeds can be collected include: Buddhist pine, bamboo-leaf podocarp, soapberry, buckeye, purple magnolia, white magnolia, manglietia, southern magnolia, mountain magnolia, Huangshan magnolia, yellow magnolia, golden-leaf Michelia, Michelia maudiae, red-flowered manglietia, broad-petal Michelia, pond cypress, Rhapis excelsa, Ardisia crenata, beautiful phoenix palm, Chinese fan palm, kuding tea, French holly, camphor, privet, small-leaf privet, Viburnum macrocephalum, hall crabapple, papaya, sago palm, ginkgo, Taxus chinensis, oil tea, etc. These seeds must all be stored in wet sand. Seed species that can be stored dry include: crape myrtle, tulip tree, red maple, Japanese maple, golden larch, dawn redwood, Japanese cedar, Chinese tallow, silk tree, goldenrain tree, cotton rose, southern sour jujube, redbud, camptotheca, Bischofia polycarpa, five-angle maple, etc. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: scarlet sage, cockscomb, zinnia, globe amaranth, small dahlia, marigold, French marigold, China aster, garden balsam, four-o'clock, Kochia scoparia, strawflower, cosmos, mountain snow, painted euphorbia, mimosa, dancing grass, etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for canna, dahlia, etc., when their aboveground parts are nearly withered, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keep the room temperature no lower than 5°C, and cut and replant them in spring.

Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, temperatures are still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as rubber tree, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea ceilanica, Lanyu cinnamon, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, etc., on sunny days water once a day and supplement with leaf misting; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species such as calla lily, cyclamen, Clivia, Portulacaria afra, Daphne odora, geranium, Fuchsia, etc., increase the amount of watering. For wintersweet, plum blossom, Camellia japonica, etc. that bloom in winter and early spring, control watering and mist more to help the buds enlarge. In northern regions, for relatively cold-sensitive flower species, reduce watering to accelerate the lignification of new shoots, helping them overwinter safely. The best watering time is 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn cools, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for Camellia japonica, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, Clivia, cyclamen, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian rhododendron, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to apply a mixture of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase cold resistance; for fruiting potted plants, such as bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, nandina, winter coral, rich seed, golden bullet tree, etc., in early to mid-October apply a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.

    3. Shading. For some very shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, green gem, Boston fern, Peperomia species, etc., shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, first prune off dead branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, weak branches, etc.; for leggy branches, carry out severe shortening; for binding materials that have been in place for 1 to 2 years, they can be removed, or removed and then re-tied, to prevent long-term binding at fixed positions from damaging the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate temperatures below 10°C can be promptly moved into greenhouses; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or tree stump bonsai, they can be buried at the end of the month in wind-sheltered, sunny soil to prevent the potting soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin, weather change information should be accurately grasped to avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowering trees, collect them, and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control aphids, chrysanthemum beetles, leafminer larvae, inchworms, and other pests.

Potted Plants Suitable for Balcony Display

    In early to mid-October on the balcony, there is still strong light and dry air. Only those potted flowering trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air balcony environment. They are: black pine, Japanese black pine, Chinese elm, plum yew, trident maple, water willow, Chinese fringe tree, Fujian tea, Buddhist pine, arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, boxwood, pomegranate, Bougainvillea, thick-leaf fig, ginkgo, roses, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, sago palm, firethorn, Lantana camara, tamarisk, red maple, etc. Some cold-sensitive southern flowering tree species can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony when temperatures drop to 10°C. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary indoor spaces at the beginning of the month, such as Cymbidium, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and placed on the balcony at other times, such as Rhapis excelsa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, pothos, Aspidistra elatior, Areca palm, Caryota mitis, king coconut, Chengkung tree, Schefflera octophylla, etc. In northern regions, when temperatures drop to 10°C, the vast majority of flowering trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers: In early October, on the balcony, wide-mouth large flower pots can continue to be used as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of half rice chaff ash and half wet sand, or vermiculite alone can be used as the cutting substrate, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, for cuttings propagation of a small number of ornamental plants, such as gardenia, Schefflera octophylla, rubber tree, aucuba, Michelia figo, jasmine, Chloranthus, Aglaonema, coral flower, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, Chinese hibiscus, finger citron, silver queen Aglaonema, golden pothos, geranium, etc.

Management of Balcony Flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as sago palm, banyan, rubber tree, Schefflera octophylla, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, etc., water once a day and supplement with leaf misting; for species that have already formed buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian rhododendron, etc., watering should not be excessive, and misting the branches and leaves at the same time can effectively promote bud enlargement. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, little angel, Aspidistra elatior, Cordyline fruticosa, bird's nest fern, Anthurium, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea species, pothos, etc., misting should be primary and watering supplementary, to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as Clivia, cyclamen, calla lily, as well as Cymbidium, bromeliads, Cymbidium sinense, etc., apply a mixture of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, lemon, nandina, golden bullet tree, rich seed, firethorn, winter coral, etc., continue to apply a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, etc., in early October apply 1 to 2 times dilute phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to help them overwinter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree stump bonsai and potted flowers on the balcony that receive full sunlight, in order to reduce watering, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent soil compaction, continue to cover the potting soil surface with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc.; especially shallow-pot tree stump bonsai deserve more attention. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on sunny days, move them indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon. Shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, plum yew, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, arborvitae (stump), Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, privet, Chinese fringe tree, etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal or non-metal wires that have been tied for more than a year, they can first be untied; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, a new binding position can be changed for further shaping and fixation, which can avoid severe damage to the plant from overly deep constriction marks. For ordinary potted flowering trees, such as roses, wintersweet, plum blossom, Chaenomeles speciosa, hall crabapple, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunk, which can both protect the trunk xylem and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases next year.
Flower Planting Manual (November Edition)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Start of Winter, the beginning of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow, when snow begins in the Yellow River basin and areas to the north, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should focus on two aspects: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowering trees, whitewashing trunks and removing pests, plowing the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively doing cold and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic tunnels. This month's flower management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: nasturtium, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, African daisy, Clivia, asparagus fern, hosta, etc.

    Flowering tree species that can be sown immediately after collection in November include: oak-leaf hydrangea, small-leaf privet, privet, camphor, pencil cedar, bamboo-leaf podocarp, Buddhist pine, soapberry, rich seed (Ardisia crenata), palm, French holly, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniana, etc.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be done, but plastic film mulching must be added. Flowering tree species mainly for insulation and cold protection include: red-leaf plum, plum blossom (referring to varieties such as green calyx and palace pink), roses (referring to easy-to-root varieties such as floribunda rose and Elizabeth), Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: red-leaf plum, hall crabapple, Chaenomeles speciosa, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Chinese trumpet creeper, Chinese elm, June snow, etc. Some of these root cuttings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flowering trees that can be densely planted for cutting propagation in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in November include: boxwood, Japanese boxwood, large-leaf boxwood, silver-edged boxwood, Pilea cadierei, golden-edged privet, gardenia, Hypericum, St. John's wort, Mahonia, golden-edged June snow, etc. If managed properly, they can grow a complete root system by spring and can be used for ground planting to cultivate topiary greening shapes. In winter, in greenhouses, cuttings can also be propagated for bamboo-node begonia, begonia, lotus-leaf begonia, geranium, Chinese hibiscus, Fuchsia, jade tree, Portulacaria afra, red-backed Excoecaria, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, etc., and after spring begins they can be used for potting cultivation.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of cotton rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, grape, etc. can also be cut and stored until spring for cuttings, which can significantly accelerate rooting speed and increase cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Use green maple seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft red maple and feather maple indoors; use apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft plum blossom (bury the graft union in soil to overwinter); use thick branches of roses (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock scion, and branches of excellent rose varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttings, so that the union heals and the lower cut roots at the same time, which can accelerate the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of excellent rose varieties.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be propagated by ground layering in November mainly include: Chaenomeles speciosa, gardenia, small-leaf gardenia, pomegranate, Camellia japonica, plum blossom, wintersweet, Buddhist pine, Weigela, osmanthus, hydrangea, purple magnolia, Chinese cypress, Michelia figo, oak-leaf hydrangea, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, snow spray, etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, oak-leaf hydrangea, snow spray, red-flowered spiraea, trident maple, Hypericum, St. John's wort, Mahonia, Buddleja, tree peony, broom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, jasmine, jasmine, Chloranthus, Phoenix bamboo, bamboo, etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlia, canna, and large-flowered canna can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the next spring, and then cut, divided, and planted.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: bletilla, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, hosta, purple hosta, blackberry lily, iris, ornamental bromeliads, large-leaf dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily, Aglaonema, Aspidistra elatior, mother of thousands, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, zinnia, China aster, French marigold, marigold, maple mallow, etc.

    Flowering tree species whose seeds can be collected and stored dry in November include: black pine, Huangshan pine, five-needle pine, dawn redwood, false cypress, Japanese false cypress, Japanese cypress, silk tree, sweetgum, camptotheca, eucommia, red-twig dogwood, Chinese tallow, wisteria, crape myrtle, Caragana, oak-leaf hydrangea. Flowering tree species that can be sown immediately after collection or must be stored in wet sand include: privet, small-leaf privet, palm, camphor, pencil cedar, soapberry, goji, Taxus chinensis, southern magnolia, wintergreen, Chinese holly, firethorn, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniana, roses (for cultivating rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted for flowerbed planting and flower border arrangement in November include: dwarf catchfly, Dianthus, hollyhock, mallow, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, daisy, pot marigold, ornamental kale, etc.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: camphor, southern magnolia, silk tree, soapberry, privet, goldenrain tree, Chinese tallow, white magnolia, osmanthus, red maple, red-leaf plum, plum blossom, wintersweet, buckeye, linden, giant redbud, tulip tree, Yulan magnolia, papaya, crabapple, etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately shortened or cut back, and most leaves removed, the trunk bound with straw rope, and a large soil ball carried (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter) to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be cut back, large branches trimmed, a good soil ball carried, and the trunk bound. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk misting management must be strengthened to ensure survival. In addition, cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent massive water evaporation from the tree body.

    In November, plum stumps, wintersweet, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, hall crabapple, etc. can be transplanted and potted, placed in plastic tunnels for flower forcing, to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted hyacinth, tulip, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. should be moved into plastic tunnels to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, or rooms, the specific standard for watering in November is to keep the potting soil moist, not overly wet; if temperatures are low and watering is excessive, plants are prone to root rot and death. If indoor temperatures are high, appropriately increase watering and provide necessary leaf misting.

For potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, etc., as well as fruiting plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, firethorn, nandina, winter coral, rich seed, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be misted frequently to help the flower buds enlarge and grow, and to make the fruit appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in cold frames, greenhouses, and indoors, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be sprayed with water frequently so that they always remain lush green and glossy. In greenhouses and rooms with higher temperatures, the amount of watering can be increased. For foliage plants that are not very cold-tolerant, such as arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), prayer plant (Maranta), pink lady (Euphorbia cotinifolia), green emperor (Aglaonema), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), and silver queen (Aglaonema), the amount of watering should be controlled to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    In November, the best time to water potted flowers is between 10 and 11 a.m., and the water temperature should be basically the same as the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants caused by water that is too cold, which would in turn affect their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors where the temperature is above 15°C, such as Belgian azalea (Rhododendron), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), winter daphne (Daphne odora), cineraria (Pericallis), cyclamen (Cyclamen), Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), hyacinth (Hyacinthus), clivia (Clivia miniata), tulip (Tulipa), ornamental bromeliads, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), and Neoregelia, low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can continue to be applied; a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowering shrubs, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in ordinary cold frames, topdressing should be stopped to help them enter normal dormancy for the winter. For most flowering shrubs planted in the ground, such as Malus species, southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Saucer magnolia (Magnolia soulangeana), manglietia (Manglietia), Michelia chapensis, Magnolia yunshanensis, Michelia figo, Michelia foveolata, gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), spiraea (Spiraea), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), grape (Vitis vinifera), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), red maple (Acer palmatum), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), forsythia (Forsythia), herbaceous peony (Paeonia lactiflora), and hypericum (Hypericum), dry cake fertilizer can be buried and applied, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant, less for smaller plants, to build a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and topiary shapes that have not yet been pruned; after pruning is completed, base fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly shaped by pruning, carry out all-around shaping and pruning, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), boxthorn (Sageretia thea), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), oak (Quercus), Fraxinus hupehensis, firethorn (Pyracantha), serissa (Serissa japonica), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), and crabapple (Malus), to build a good framework for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted Chinese roses that have not yet been pruned. For each plant, in addition to retaining 3 to 5 vigorous 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their bases, and cut off all thin and weak branches. For unpruned ground-planted crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), carry out heavy renewal pruning on the current year's branches; in addition to retaining 20 cm to 30 cm from the base of a few thick branches, cut off all the other current year's branches, so as to encourage more vigorous new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowering shrubs in flowerbeds, along roadsides, and in courtyards, such as crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), plane tree (Platanus), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), forsythia (Forsythia), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), camellia (Camellia japonica), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), firethorn (Pyracantha), pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), and crabapple (Malus), cut off all deformed branches, thin and weak branches, inner-canopy branches, and diseased and pest-infested branches, and appropriately shorten the water sprouts protruding beyond the crown. In addition, in November, large palm trees can be stripped of their fibrous sheaths, and the trunks cleaned, so that they display their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For potted flowering shrubs that are not very afraid of cold, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), azalea (Rhododendron), Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), white orchid (Michelia alba), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), bottle orchid (Aglaonema), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), finger citron (Citrus medica), lemon (Citrus limon), kumquat (Fortunella), Ardisia crenata, Schefflera octophylla, monstera (Monstera deliciosa), Philodendron, fishtail palm (Caryota), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), and palm bamboo (Rhapis), they can be placed in plastic cold frames, as long as the temperature is maintained at no lower than about 5°C.

For potted flower species that are not cold-tolerant, such as prayer plant (Maranta), pink lady (Euphorbia cotinifolia), arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Milan (Aglaia odorata), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), Brazilian iron (Dracaena fragrans), red (green) gem (Dracaena), giant taro (Alocasia), green emperor (Aglaonema), silver queen (Aglaonema), frangipani (Plumeria), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and Paphiopedilum, they should be placed indoors where the room temperature is not lower than 10°C, or protected through the winter in double-layer plastic cold frames.

For bonsai or potted flowering shrubs that are relatively cold-tolerant, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), Malus species, rhododendron (Rhododendron), pomegranate (Punica granatum), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), boxwood (Buxus sinica), boxthorn (Sageretia thea), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), and red maple (Acer palmatum), they can be buried together with their pots in wind-sheltered, sunny soil; under conditions not lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, plastic film and soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in cold frames, greenhouses, or rooms in November, in addition to ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation should also be done well. Doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent the plants from being stuffy indoors for a long time, which can cause flower drop, fruit drop, and leaf drop. In addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not enter the room, otherwise it can also easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop in plants. When ventilating, be careful never to let plants be directly exposed to cold drafts.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering shrubs prone to leaf diseases, such as grape (Vitis vinifera), Malus species, rose (Rosa rugosa), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), camellia (Camellia japonica), and chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum), collect and burn the fallen leaves under the plants, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases next year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk and split-trunk tree stump bonsai, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the dead and split trunk parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep decay of the stump xylem.

For whiteflies and scale insects appearing on potted flowering shrubs placed in greenhouses or cold frames (they may occur on bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), finger citron (Citrus medica), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), orchids, camellia (Camellia japonica), clivia (Clivia miniata), and Aspidistra), first, wipe them off with a damp cloth; second, spray and kill them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on white orchid (Michelia alba), Milan (Aglaia odorata), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), and Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis)), spray tobacco water for control.

For Belgian azaleas placed in cold frames, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as Yemianbao; otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    In November, the bonsai plant species suitable for shaping mainly include: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), Juniperus chinensis var. procumbens, Euonymus oxyphyllus, serissa (Serissa japonica), plum blossom (Prunus mume), winter hazel (Corylopsis), oak (Quercus), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), boxwood (Buxus sinica), Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), and Hall crabapple (Malus halliana).

For bonsai stumps that have been tied with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when relatively deep constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November, and the trunk and branches can be tied and adjusted again.

For new tree stumps such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), boxthorn (Sageretia thea), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), water willow (Adina rubella), firethorn (Pyracantha), and Elaeagnus, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting, and branch cutting, plant them in sandy loam fields by shallow burying and high mounding; after they sprout next year, shaping can be carried out.

For tree stumps that have basically taken shape after 1 to 2 years of care and shaping, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots, and branches, suitable pots can be selected for repotting, and matched with ornamental stones and dotted with moss; they can then be displayed indoors around the Spring Festival.

For well-shaped tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), peach (Prunus persica), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), and Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), suitable pots can be selected in November for potting, and water management can be strengthened; they can be used next spring for display in squares, parks, and auditoriums.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, most parts of China enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south across China, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, with frequent heavy frost. This month, flower and tree care should focus on three aspects of work: first, do a good job of heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees that have entered greenhouses, cold frames, and rooms; second, do a good job of pruning, cleaning, and land turning and fertilizing for open-field flowers and trees; third, do a good job of preparing composted organic fertilizer and mixed potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), clivia (Clivia miniata), tuberous begonia (Begonia tuberhybrida), cyclamen (Cyclamen), winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), and African daisy (Gerbera jamesonii). Flowering shrubs that can be sown outdoors as soon as collected or stratified in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as 'Elizabeth'), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Ardisia crenata, Ilex species, firethorn (Pyracantha), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), privet (Ligustrum), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), Ligustrum quihoui, soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), photinia (Photinia), and Photinia davidsoniae.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flowering shrubs that can be propagated by open-field cuttings in December include: plum blossom (mainly cultivars such as Gongfen and Lue); Chinese rose (mainly easy-to-root cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda roses, and miniature roses); red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) (heel cuttings), spiraea (Spiraea), and boxwood species. Among them, plum blossom and red-leaf plum cuttings should preferably use yellow subsoil; Chinese rose cuttings should preferably use a mixed substrate of rice husk ash and fine sand at 2:1; other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film to retain heat and moisture.

In greenhouses, African violet (Saintpaulia) can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), geranium (Pelargonium), orchid cactus (Epiphyllum), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), jade plant (Crassula ovata), echeveria (Echeveria), portulacaria (Portulacaria afra), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens), cane begonia (Begonia maculata), Rieger begonia (Begonia hiemalis), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), lantana (Lantana camara), Schefflera octophylla, winter daphne (Daphne odora), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), and cordyline (Cordyline fruticosa). Using cold-frame seedbeds, cuttings can also be taken of gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), golden-heart (golden-edge) boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), mahonia (Mahonia), hypericum (Hypericum), forsythia (Forsythia), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Buddhist pine cypress (Podocarpus), serissa (Serissa japonica), firethorn (Pyracantha), silver bud willow (Salix gracilistyla), and Triarrhena. In addition, branches of Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), lilac (Syringa), and grape (Vitis vinifera) can be cut and stored in sand, to be cuttings next spring.

    3. Grafting. Excellent plum blossom cultivars, such as Guhong and Zhusha, can be grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruit plum, and peach sown that year; after digging up the rootstock, use cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant them in seedbeds at a certain spacing between plants and rows, burying soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion. Be careful not to let water seep into the graft union when watering, cover with plastic film to retain heat and moisture, and remove the covering film in early spring after the scion sprouts. Use dug wild rose plants to bud-graft excellent cultivars of Chinese rose; or use vigorous branch sections of the 'Elizabeth' Chinese rose cultivar (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose scions on the upper end, and then plant the grafted 'Elizabeth' scion sections into loose seedbeds. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil; when watering, do not let water seep into the graft interface, cover with plastic film to retain moisture and heat, remove the covering film after the scion sprouts next spring, and only after it has completely survived should a blade be used to cut the binding tape at the graft union. In addition, red maple (Acer palmatum) can be side-grafted indoors with bagging to retain moisture.

    4. Layering. Flowering shrubs that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), plum blossom (Prunus mume), camellia (Camellia japonica), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), Michelia figo, Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), weigela (Weigela florida), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), forsythia (Forsythia), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), Spiraea prunifolia, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), and pomegranate (Punica granatum).

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: rain lily (Zephyranthes candida), dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), lily turf (Reineckea carnea), hosta (Hosta), purple calyx (Hosta ventricosa), red wood sorrel (Oxalis corymbosa), Aspidistra elatior, Jianlan orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), iris (Iris), large-leaf lilyturf (Liriope platyphylla), lilyturf (Ophiopogon), Rohdea japonica, kalanchoe (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), and Aglaonema modestum. When cutting off offsets from the base of large colorful bromeliad plants, the small plants must have already grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise, the colorful bands of the separated offsets are likely to disappear, which should be given special attention.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), hypericum (Hypericum), mahonia (Mahonia), Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), palm bamboo (Rhapis), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea), Caragana, forsythia (Forsythia), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Jasminum, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), sisal (Agave sisalana), bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), and Pleioblastus fortunei.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as Salvia species, Gomphrena species, marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), cyclamen (Cyclamen), and clivia (Clivia miniata). Clivia seeds should preferably be sown as soon as collected.

    Woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December mainly include: Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), privet (Ligustrum), Ligustrum quihoui, firethorn (Pyracantha), Ardisia crenata, Ilex species, camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), and Photinia species. After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination; only after the seeds crack and show white next year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage, they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising next year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flowerbeds in December include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), large-flowered pansy (Viola tricolor var. hortensis), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), and daisy (Bellis perennis). Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in cold frames, such as daisy (Bellis perennis), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), Dianthus, and pansy (Viola tricolor var. hortensis); next spring they can be used for street display.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), pomegranate (Punica granatum), redbud (Cercis chinensis), Malus species, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), Saucer magnolia (Magnolia soulangeana), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), linden (Tilia), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), red maple (Acer palmatum), peach (Prunus persica), Chinese scholar tree (Sophora japonica), and Sophora japonica var. pendula. For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, transplanting should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet (Ligustrum), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), azalea (Rhododendron), and wintergreen (Ilex). When transplanting, first carry out heavy renewal pruning of the main shoot and large branches, and remove most leaves; at the same time, bring a large root ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, seal the cut ends of the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them in film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowering shrubs that can be potted in December include: plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet stumps (Chimonanthus praecox), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), and Hall crabapple (Malus halliana). Place them in cold frames for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinth (Hyacinthus), tulip (Tulipa), and pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus) should continue to be kept in frames for flower forcing, which can promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic cold frames where the temperature is not lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without freeze damage, such as asparagus fern (Asparagus densiflorus), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Aspidistra elatior, Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), Aucuba japonica var. variegata, Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), palm bamboo (Rhapis), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, firethorn (Pyracantha), camellia (Camellia japonica), Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), Pleioblastus fortunei, and sago palm (Cycas revoluta).

For ornamental plant species requiring an overwintering temperature not lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), Schefflera octophylla, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), white orchid (Michelia alba), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), pocket coconut (Chamaedorea elegans), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), Philodendron, monstera (Monstera deliciosa), Jianlan orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), ink orchid (Cymbidium sinense), Belgian azalea (Rhododendron), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), cyclamen (Cyclamen), primrose (Primula), lantana (Lantana camara), kumquat (Fortunella), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon (Citrus limon), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), geranium (Pelargonium), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), and Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), they can overwinter in double-layer plastic cold frames. For species requiring an overwintering temperature not lower than 10°C, such as croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Caladium bicolor, pepperomia (Peperomia), prayer plant (Maranta), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), fishtail palm (Caryota), Brazilian iron (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Fittonia, bromeliads, pink lady (Euphorbia cotinifolia), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), large-flowered cymbidium (Cymbidium), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), Milan (Aglaia odorata), Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Paphiopedilum, South American cycad (Zamia), red (green) gem (Dracaena), Oncidium, and Cymbidium hookerianum, in well-sealed double-layer cold frames, appropriate heating should also be provided. During particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the cold frames, and removed after the weather turns warmer.

For relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), Malus species, rhododendron (Rhododendron), pomegranate (Punica granatum), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), boxthorn (Sageretia thea), oak (Quercus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), boxwood species, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), red cedar (Juniperus), water willow (Adina rubella), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), and Fraxinus hupehensis, when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, they generally will not freeze; in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether placed in cold frames, greenhouses, or rooms, bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage and fruit ornamental plants must not only maintain a corresponding indoor temperature, but also be ventilated. Doors and windows can be opened for ventilation around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, also be careful not to let cold drafts directly hit the plants, so as to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, cold frames, and rooms, keep the potting soil moist as the standard; if the temperature is too low and watering is excessive, it can easily cause root rot. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and provide appropriate leaf spraying.

For potted flower plant species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Belgian azalea (Rhododendron), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), cineraria (Pericallis), primrose (Primula), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), hyacinth (Hyacinthus), and European narcissus (Narcissus), and fruit ornamentals such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon (Citrus limon), finger citron (Citrus medica), calamondin (Citrus microcarpa), kumquat (Fortunella), winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Ardisia crenata, and heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves must also be sprayed with water, to help the flower buds expand and also increase the vividness of the flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be sprayed with water, always keeping the leaves clean. For not very cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink lady (Euphorbia cotinifolia), arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), prayer plant (Maranta), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), and silver queen (Aglaonema), when the room temperature is already close to the lowest temperature limit they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    In December, the best watering time is the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water that is too cold.

For newly transplanted outdoor flowers and trees, check frequently and replenish watering in time; for transplanted evergreen trees, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon to prevent the leaves from drying, shrinking, and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering shrubs, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in ordinary cold frames, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most greening trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground, such as Malus species, southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), manglietia (Manglietia), Michelia species, red maple (Acer palmatum), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), herbaceous peony (Paeonia lactiflora), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), forsythia (Forsythia), hypericum (Hypericum), grape (Vitis vinifera), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), spiraea (Spiraea), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), mock orange (Philadelphus), deutzia (Deutzia), pomegranate (Punica granatum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), lilac (Syringa), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), banksia rose (Rosa banksiae), hypericum (Hypericum), weeping willow (Salix babylonica), Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica), deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara), cypress species, Sophora japonica var. pendula, flowering almond (Prunus triloba), plum (Prunus), white silk plum (Exochorda racemosa), photinia (Photinia), redbud (Cercis chinensis), and rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), in December, while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer roots, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, and septic tank residue, to build a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), azalea (Rhododendron), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), bromeliads, winter daphne (Daphne odora), cineraria (Pericallis), primrose (Primula), cyclamen (Cyclamen), Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), hyacinth (Hyacinthus), clivia (Clivia miniata), tulip (Tulipa), and freesia (Freesia), a 1.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can continue to be applied as topdressing, to promote bud formation and flowering.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls, and topiary shapes that were not fully pruned in November. Hedge and green wall types include privet (Ligustrum), Ligustrum quihoui, Ligustrum sinense, Euonymus japonicus, Sabina chinensis, Osmanthus fragrans, and Photinia davidsoniae; topiary types include Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), bayberry (Myrica rubra), photinia (Photinia), boxwood species, pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), forsythia (Forsythia), firethorn (Pyracantha), dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca'), and juniper (Juniperus). While completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For ground-planted flowering shrubs that were not fully pruned in November, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), photinia (Photinia), plane tree (Platanus), plum blossom (Prunus mume), and wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), carry out shaping and pruning; after pruning is finished, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the roots.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly shaped by pruning, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), boxthorn (Sageretia thea), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), oak (Quercus), Fraxinus hupehensis, firethorn (Pyracantha), serissa (Serissa japonica), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), crabapple (Malus), and papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), continue pruning in December to build a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be combined with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering shrubs whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grape (Vitis vinifera), Malus species, rose (Rosa rugosa), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), camellia (Camellia japonica), and crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), collect and burn the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases next year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria (Pericallis) and gray mold on primrose (Primula), the former should be controlled promptly with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For flower and tree species in greenhouses and cold frames that are prone to scale insects, such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), finger citron (Citrus medica), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), camellia (Camellia japonica), and Aspidistra elatior, first wipe them once with a cloth, then control them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flower and tree species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as white orchid (Michelia alba), Milan (Aglaia odorata), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), and Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-field cultivated flowering shrubs such as pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), plane tree (Platanus), camellia (Camellia japonica), Ligustrum quihoui, firethorn (Pyracantha), oleander (Nerium oleander), crabapple (Malus), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), redbud (Cercis chinensis), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara), photinia (Photinia), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), and wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), various scale insects often appear, such as horned wax scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and felt scale. At this time, spraying higher-concentration pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin rarely causes phytotoxicity.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of seedling raising and mixing potting soil next year, the winter leisure time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into water vats or ponds, add water, and seal them for soaking, composting, and fermentation.

Stack dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, branches, etc. in alternating layers with garden soil, set them on fire and burn them to form burnt soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken manure, pigeon droppings, etc. with garden soil for composting, seal and ferment, and it can be used for topdressing seedlings and mixing potting soil next year.

    7. Mixing potting soil. Using the free time in winter, find a piece of open ground or a spot under tree shade, and make as much potting soil as possible, in preparation for repotting and potting herbaceous flowers next spring. Generally, use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder, or rice husk ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots, and other debris, and after fully mixing them evenly, cover with plastic film. It can also be piled indoors; after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning the soil and freezing the clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cuttings, and planting out seedlings, plowing can be carried out in December; for plots used for sowing and planting out seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, etc. can be applied before turning and planting; if seedbeds are not made for the time being, after overwintering and freezing the clods, trenches can be opened and beds made in early spring next year, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Buddhist pine cypress (Podocarpus), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), Platycladus orientalis, creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis), true juniper (Juniperus chinensis), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), red pine (Pinus densiflora), water willow (Adina rubella), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), Euonymus oxyphyllus, ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), serissa (Serissa japonica), Caragana, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), boxthorn (Sageretia thea), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), winter hazel (Corylopsis), tamarisk (Tamarix), Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), Chaenomeles cathayensis, boxwood (Buxus sinica), Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Fraxinus hupehensis, and oak (Quercus).

For bonsai plants fixed and shaped with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if they have been fixed for one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be removed, and metal wire or palm rope should be used again for tying and training.

For ground-planted plum stumps, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), crabapple (Malus), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), etc. that have already been shaped, after some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so that they can be used next year for display in public places or rooms.

In winter, for some landscape bonsai in shallow pots and tree stump bonsai, careful management is essential: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant roots; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating the artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent plants planted on the rockery from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so that they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperature and coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, around the "third nine-day period," when most parts of China enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, when cold air from the north frequently moves southward, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperature of the year occurs. This month, the most important thing in flower care is to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, etc. in greenhouses, cold frames, and rooms; next is auxiliary work such as tree pruning, cleaning up dead branches and fallen leaves, turning and preparing the land, and preparing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), clivia (Clivia miniata), tuberous begonia (Begonia tuberhybrida), cyclamen (Cyclamen), winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), and African daisy (Gerbera jamesonii). Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in the open field include: Chinese rose ('Elizabeth'), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Ardisia crenata, wintergreen (Ilex), firethorn (Pyracantha), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), photinia (Photinia), Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), privet (Ligustrum), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), and goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata).

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-field or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: plum blossom (cultivars such as Lue and Gongfen), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), Chinese rose (cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda, and miniature), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) (heel cuttings), spiraea (Spiraea), boxwood species, pomegranate (Punica granatum), silver bud willow (Salix gracilistyla), mahonia (Mahonia), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), serissa (Serissa japonica), Triarrhena, hypericum (Hypericum), forsythia (Forsythia), spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), and Jasminum. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: jasmine (Jasminum sambac), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), geranium (Pelargonium), fuchsia (Fuchsia), African violet (Saintpaulia) (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea (Rhododendron), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), jade plant (Crassula ovata), jade leaf (Crassula), jade tree (Crassula arborescens), echeveria (Echeveria), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), orchid cactus (Epiphyllum), clearweed (Pilea cadierei), mirror grass (Pilea peperomioides), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), Rieger begonia (Begonia hiemalis), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), Schefflera octophylla, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), winter daphne (Daphne odora), Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Aglaonema modestum, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), and cordyline (Cordyline fruticosa). In addition, branches of lilac (Syringa), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), tamarisk (Tamarix), grape (Vitis vinifera), Weigela florida, deutzia (Deutzia), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), plane tree (Platanus), and fig (Ficus carica) can be cut and stored in sand, to be cuttings in March.

    3. Grafting. For excellent plum blossom cultivars, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruit plum, mountain peach, and wild peach can be used as rootstocks for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, bury and plant them in seedbeds, cover with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold. In Guangdong, between Minor Cold and Major Cold, budding is often used to propagate calamondin (Citrus microcarpa) and kumquat (Fortunella); use dug wild rose plants to bud-graft excellent cultivars of Chinese rose; use the 'Elizabeth' Chinese rose cultivar as the rootstock-scion, and cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars; grafting and cutting propagation can be carried out simultaneously, covering with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), camellia (Camellia japonica), plum blossom (Prunus mume), weigela (Weigela florida), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), forsythia (Forsythia), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), Spiraea prunifolia, spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), pomegranate (Punica granatum), and red maple (Acer palmatum).

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), large-leaf lilyturf (Liriope platyphylla), variegated lilyturf (Liriope), lily turf (Reineckea carnea), rain lily (Zephyranthes candida), pink rain lily (Zephyranthes carinata), hosta (Hosta), purple calyx (Hosta ventricosa), purple-backed Rohdea (Rohdea japonica), Jianlan orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), iris (Iris), spider plant species, Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema modestum, kalanchoe (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), bromeliads, small tulip (Tulipa), shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet), monstera (Monstera deliciosa), and aloe (Aloe). Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), hypericum (Hypericum), mahonia (Mahonia), Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), palm bamboo (Rhapis), spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea), Caragana, forsythia (Forsythia), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Jasminum, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Triarrhena, boxwood (Buxus), and purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora).

    6. Collecting seeds. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus) or clivia (Clivia miniata) seeds in the greenhouse, they can be sown as soon as collected; mature winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum) seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), firethorn (Pyracantha), Ilex species, and Ardisia crenata can be collected; after treatment, carry out sand stratification for germination, and sow only after the seeds crack and show white.

    In January, frequently check seeds stored in sand, including Magnolia species, Michelia species, Photinia species, and Ilex species, to see whether the seeds have molded. If mold appears, the seeds must be poured out and rubbed clean again, and clean fine sand must be replaced for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, replenish with water in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has emerged, sowing must be carried out immediately, and plastic film or straw, pine needles, etc. should be added to retain heat and moisture.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in less cold areas include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), and daisy (Bellis perennis); in relatively cold areas, seedlings of Dianthus, ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), pansy (Viola tricolor var. hortensis), and primrose (Primula) can be potted and first placed in simple plastic cold frames, and after spring returns and the weather warms, used for display in street flowerbeds, green spaces, and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), pomegranate (Punica granatum), redbud (Cercis chinensis), Malus species, ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), maple species, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), Saucer magnolia (Magnolia soulangeana), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), linden (Tilia), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), peach (Prunus persica), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea), Triarrhena, Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), Chinese scholar tree (Sophora japonica), and Sophora japonica var. pendula. For evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora) and Ligustrum sinense, except in special circumstances, transplanting this month should generally be moved earlier to December or delayed to February; of course, in wind-sheltered places, with heavy renewal pruning after transplanting and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during forestry afforestation land preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), boxthorn (Sageretia thea), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), rhododendron (Rhododendron), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Japanese maple (Acer palmatum), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), wild plum (Prunus mume), Elaeagnus, and Euonymus oxyphyllus; for evergreen tree stumps, such as heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), cat's claw (Ilex), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), and oak (Quercus), heavy renewal pruning must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous tree stumps or evergreen tree stumps, the shallow burying and high mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains should be added for freeze protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management; even a slight negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the lowest temperature that various flower species can tolerate, a special environment for safe overwintering should be created for them, either in a greenhouse, in a cold frame, indoors, or buried in open-field soil. In simple plastic cold frames where the temperature is not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 0°C can be placed, such as asparagus fern (Asparagus densiflorus), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Aspidistra elatior, Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), palm bamboo (Rhapis), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), aucuba (Aucuba japonica), Michelia figo, Cymbidium goeringii, Paphiopedilum, Ardisia crenata, winter daphne (Daphne odora), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), acorus (Acorus), bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), and Pleioblastus fortunei. In double-layer plastic cold frames where the temperature is not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), white orchid (Michelia alba), pocket coconut (Chamaedorea elegans), bottle orchid (Aglaonema), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), Philodendron, monstera (Monstera deliciosa), kumquat (Fortunella), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon (Citrus limon), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Jianlan orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), Cymbidium sinense, night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), orchid cactus (Epiphyllum), Bambusa ventricosa, Belgian azalea (Rhododendron), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), and lantana (Lantana camara). In double-layer plastic cold frames or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can tolerate low temperatures around 10°C can be placed, such as croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Caladium bicolor, arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), prayer plant (Maranta), bromeliads, pepperomia (Peperomia), coleus (Coleus), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), fishtail palm (Caryota), Brazilian iron (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Fittonia, red (green) gem (Dracaena), giant taro (Alocasia), green emperor (Aglaonema), silver queen (Aglaonema), Milan (Aglaia odorata), large-flowered cymbidium (Cymbidium), Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, money tree (Zamioculcas zamiifolia), South American cycad (Zamia), desert rose (Adenium obesum), pink lady (Euphorbia cotinifolia), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), and coral plant (Jatropha multifida). During particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the cold frames, and can be stopped only after the weather turns warmer. On very cold days, strengthen inspections of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise it is very easy to cause freeze damage to plants. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), Malus species, rhododendron (Rhododendron), pomegranate (Punica granatum), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), boxthorn (Sageretia thea), oak (Quercus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), boxwood species, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Sabina, oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), small bayberry (Myrica), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), and Fraxinus hupehensis, they can be buried together with their pots in the soil; when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, freeze damage generally will not occur; in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in cold frames, greenhouses, or homes, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, in addition to maintaining a corresponding air temperature, ventilation should also be done well. Doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation and air exchange, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold drafts directly hitting the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and cold frames during each cold air intrusion. If broken glass, torn film, etc. are found, plug and repair them in time, so as not to freeze potted flowers. When providing coal, gas, or oil heating to greenhouses, also check carefully to ensure no leaking gas or smoke enters the greenhouse or cold frame, so as to prevent smoke damage and other causes of flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop.

To force tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa) to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 hours of additional light each day (incandescent lamps), so they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), etc. can also be placed in cold frames at about 15°C for flower forcing, and the light duration can be appropriately increased, which can meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering shrubs during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinth (Hyacinthus), tulip (Tulipa), pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), and freesia (Freesia) that were placed in greenhouses in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    In January, for the watering management of potted flowers, the most important thing is first to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature. If the difference between the two is too large, it can very easily cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and may even cause leaf drop, root rot, or death. The best watering time is the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency, and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, cold frames, and rooms, keep the potting soil moist as appropriate; when the temperature is lower, reduce watering accordingly; when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and provide leaf spraying. For most foliage plants, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but attention should also be paid to spraying the leaves, always keeping the leaves clean. For not very cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink lady (Euphorbia cotinifolia), arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), prayer plant (Maranta), and croton (Codiaeum variegatum), when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the lowest temperature the plant can tolerate, the amount of watering should be especially controlled. For potted flower species that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Belgian azalea (Rhododendron), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), cineraria (Pericallis), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), primrose (Primula), hyacinth (Hyacinthus), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), and pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), and fruit ornamentals such as firethorn (Pyracantha), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), finger citron (Citrus medica), lemon (Citrus limon), Ardisia crenata, kumquat (Fortunella), kumquat (Fortunella), and winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water, to help the flower buds expand and also increase the vivid color of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in remote locations from lacking water, and promptly replenish water for plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and replenish watering in time; especially for evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon, to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off due to excessively dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most greening trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground, such as Malus species, white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Saucer magnolia (Magnolia soulangeana), manglietia (Manglietia), Michelia species, maple species, gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), linden (Tilia), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), schima (Schima superba), Machilus, purple tree (Nyssa), camptotheca (Camptotheca acuminata), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), forsythia (Forsythia), boxwood (Buxus), grape (Vitis vinifera), coral tree (Viburnum), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), hydrangea (Hydrangea), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), plum (Prunus), flowering almond (Prunus triloba), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), deutzia (Deutzia), mock orange (Philadelphus), banksia rose (Rosa banksiae), Elaeocarpus, golden willow (Salix), weeping elm (Ulmus), Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica), Taiwan fir (Taiwania), deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara), Chinese scholar tree (Sophora japonica), Sophora japonica var. pendula, white silk plum (Exochorda racemosa), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), lilac (Syringa), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), photinia (Photinia), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), purple bamboo (Bambusa), pomegranate (Punica granatum), and loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer roots of the trees, such as cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, and septic tank cleanings, to build a material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea (Rhododendron), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), winter daphne (Daphne odora), cineraria (Pericallis), primrose (Primula), cyclamen (Cyclamen), pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), hyacinth (Hyacinthus), tulip (Tulipa), Neoregelia, clivia (Clivia miniata), bird of paradise (Strelitzia), and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can continue to be applied as topdressing, to help plant growth and bud formation and flowering.

For most potted flowering shrubs, foliage plants, and bonsai kept in greenhouses, since the plants are in a dormant state in winter, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it can easily cause root rot and death of the plants.

6. Pruning

For hedges, green walls, and topiary balls that have not yet been pruned in December, continue pruning; for flowering shrubs that have not yet been pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, Banks' rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, Chinese wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor tree, plane tree, Chinese tallow tree, photinia, pomegranate, red-leaf plum, papaya, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, palm, grape, etc., continue pruning; after pruning is completed, bury basal fertilizer around the outer edge of their root zones to meet their growth needs in spring.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned with wiring as a supplement, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, bougainvillea, Fukien tea, Japanese bitterwood, Chinese fringe tree, water willow, thorny elaeagnus, firethorn, serissa, Chinese juniper, etc., you can continue to adjust and prune according to the original composition requirements, the development and change trends of the plant's trunk and branches, and your personal aesthetic taste, laying a good foundation for spring growth and shaping. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

7. Pest and Disease Control

For the main trunks or large branches of crabapple species, Japanese apricot species, elm-leaf species, papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, etc., that have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles, etc., they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches should be burned.

Clear away the fallen leaves under Chinese rose, rose, grape, crape myrtle, etc., gather them and burn them in a centralized manner, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases in the coming year.

For horned wax scale, tortoise wax scale, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, thread scale, etc., appearing on the trunks and branches of Pittosporum tobira, plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, photinia, etc., spray with high-concentration Supracide, quinalphos, fenitrothion, lime sulfur mixture, etc., to effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects in that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold that easily appears on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, and kumquat in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first use a wet cloth to wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in greenhouses, spray with 50% iprodione (main ingredient: iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

8. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc., into a water pool or water vat to soak and ferment, so as to provide liquid fertilizer for potted flowers during the growing season; stack dead grass, branches, fallen leaves, etc., with garden soil in layers, set them on fire and burn them to make homemade burnt soil, which can be used as covering soil for sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond manure, tobacco powder, chicken droppings and pigeon droppings, etc., with garden soil for composting and fermentation, which can be used as fertilizer for preparing potting soil.

9. Plowing and Freezing Soil

For nursery land that has not yet been turned over in December, seize the time to plow in early January. While plowing the garden land, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, farmyard manure, etc., and after overwintering and freezing, dig furrows and make beds in early spring for sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is particularly cold, the plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good flexibility, and easy shaping operations, such as Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, ginkgo, boxwood, Oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, serissa, creeping juniper, Chinese juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water willow, Chinese pea tree, winter hazel, winged spindle tree, banyan, Chinese wisteria, etc. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in a simple plastic greenhouse, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms, which helps the healing of parts that may have been damaged during shaping.

For plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire, etc., if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, the original binding material should be removed and wiring and training should be done again.

    In January, strict management should be strengthened for some shallow-pot tree stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried in indoor sand beds; for tree stump bonsai, prevent the potting soil from freezing, which can damage the plant's fibrous roots and may cause artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate. Also prevent plants planted on small rocks from freezing to death. They should be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and misted regularly to ensure they can overwinter safely.