How do you plant clivia seeds? Learn the key points and growing flowers is not hard at all
We are all very familiar with clivia, and many people like to keep a pot of clivia at home. But many people say clivia is very hard to grow; in fact, as long as you understand its habits, growing clivia is no problem. Below, the editor shares the planting method
Clivia itself is one of the more noble flowers, and its growing conditions are considerably higher than those of other flowers. Only by paying attention to clivia's habits can you grow it well. First, in choosing the pot, many people think planting it in a small pot is fine, but clivia actually prefers a large pot. When just planted it may look very small, but as it grows its roots go deep, so choosing a larger pot holds more soil and helps it take root.
After choosing a suitable pot, choose suitable soil for growth. Many people just casually put some loess in the pot. Clivia needs soft black soil to grow well; using very hard loess makes rooting very difficult and greatly lowers the survival rate.
Next, put the prepared soil in the pot, then plant the clivia in the pot, but do not plant it very deep. That easily causes root rot. Just cover it with a little bit of soil, so the clivia roots can slowly work their way in.
Once planted, start watering. The first watering after planting must be generous to soak it through. After watering, leave it outside for half an hour so the water has mostly seeped in. Then bring it indoors and place it in a cool, ventilated spot, with the temperature kept at about 19°C, which is more suitable. After about half a month the clivia will grow new small shoots; because the shoots are tender, do not put them in direct sun.
Growing this way, it can bloom normally in about a year and a half. When clivia blooms it is very beautiful, and the flowers are basically at their fullest in the twelfth lunar month. At Spring Festival it is just right for viewing and is very beautiful.
Essential knowledge for home flower growing | Complete guide to home flower growing knowledge
Essential knowledge for home flower growing | Complete guide to home flower growing knowledgeI. Benefits of growing flowers at home
1. Adds interest to life, makes life more full of vitality, benefits physical and mental health, cultivates noble character, and inspires feeling for life. Making friends through flowers brings joy and harmony.
Flower-viewing seasons, one by one: admire flowers in spring, admire fragrance in summer, admire fruit in autumn, admire greenery in winter.
Flower-viewing grades, one by one: tea viewing is best, conversation viewing is next, wine viewing is lowest.
Flower-viewing standards, one by one: color, fragrance, posture, charm.
2. Improve the living environment and implement green environmental protection.
(1) Green plants can absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen. Every square meter of green plants absorbs 90 g of carbon dioxide per day and releases 60 g of oxygen.
(2) Absorb harmful gases
Absorb formaldehyde, one by one: snake plant, dayflower, ivy, spider plant, aloe.
Absorb benzene, one by one: ivy, chrysanthemum, sago palm.
Absorb chlorine, one by one: orchid tree, chrysanthemum, Chinese rose, false betel palm, fan palm.
(3) The sterilizing effect of volatile oils from fresh flowers
The fragrant aroma of jasmine and lilac can kill native bacteria in 5 minutes.
(4) Regulate temperature
In urban greening areas, green plants can absorb up to 6080 calories of sunlight in summer, lowering the ambient temperature by 3.8°C, shortening the duration of high daytime temperatures by 3 hours each day, and vertical wall greening can cool the wall surface by 5°C.
II. Home flower-growing methods and commonly used plants
1. Courtyard flower growing
Combine trees and shrubs with flowers and grasses; combine deciduous plants with evergreen plants; combine foliage viewing with flower and fruit viewing; combine ornamental value with practical use; fully develop three-dimensional space, so the seasonal changes in scenery bring a fresh feeling.
Plants suitable for planting in small courtyards:
(1) Small trees:
Osmanthus, banana shrub, camellia, citrus, loquat, bamboo, crape myrtle, cherry blossom, crabapple, lilac, maple, pomegranate, jujube, persimmon, etc.
(2) Shrubs:
Gardenia, serissa, pyracantha, nandina, wintersweet, Chinese rose, tree peony, azalea, crabapple, redbud, winter daphne, hydrangea, St. John's wort, etc.
(3) Herbaceous plants:
Banana, inch plant, hairy begonia, dwarf lilyturf
Iris, daylily, Chinese peony, hosta, torch lily, New York aster, phlox, dahlia, lily, narcissus, tuberose, amaryllis, zephyr lily, rain lily, canna, red-flowered oxalis, dichondra, Manila grass, hybrid bermudagrass, stringy stonecrop, scallion, kalimeris, chrysanthemum greens.
Lotus, water lily, water plantain.
Annual and biennial herbaceous flowers, etc.
(4) Vines:
Rosa banksiae, honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, ivy, wisteria, Boston ivy, grape, kiwifruit, morning glory, cypress vine, etc.
2. Balcony and indoor flower growing
Adapt to the characteristics of pot cultivation and select suitable varieties. Master soil, fertilizer, and water management to ensure safe summering and wintering. Take measures separately according to plant traits, so they grow luxuriantly in all four seasons, and seasonal flowers match the occasion. Arrange the room exquisitely, raise the level of floral art, and regulate the joy of life.
Plants suitable for growing on balconies and indoors:
(1) Foliage plants:
Spider plant, ivy, inch plant, arrowhead plant, periwinkle.
Rubber tree, small sago palm, bamboo palm, areca palm, pygmy date palm, asparagus fern, croton, red-back eupatorium, Swiss cheese plant, bird's nest fern, fern bamboo
Bromeliads, marantas, ferns, umbrella plant
Pothos, philodendron, cordyline, Brazilian ironwood, Guangdong evergreen, lucky bamboo, Malabar chestnut (money tree),
Caladium, begonia, etc.
(2) Flowering plants:
Chinese rose, winter jasmine, plum bonsai, potted crape myrtle, winter daphne, jasmine, orchid tree, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Chinese hibiscus.
Clivia, amaryllis, lily, hyacinth, narcissus, red-flowered oxalis, calla lily, cyclamen, freesia, Persian buttercup.
Chinese orchids, tropical orchids, chrysanthemum, gerbera, begonia semperflorens, dwarf petunia, nasturtium, pelargonium, fuchsia, glasshouse impatiens (Impatiens holstii), Guinea impatiens.
Annual and biennial herbaceous flowers, etc.
(3) Fruit-viewing plants:
Nandina, finger citron, bitter orange, kumquat, calamondin.
Pyracantha, goji, small pomegranate.
Winter cherry, ornamental pepper, strawberry.
(4) Cacti and succulents
Cactus, golden barrel cactus, Christmas cactus, crab claw cactus, epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus
Agave, snake plant, ponytail palm (Agavaceae)
Lampranthus, rainbow bush, Carruanthus, living stones (Aizoaceae)
Aeonium, echeveria, jade plant, kalanchoe, kalanchoe blossfeldiana, stringy stonecrop (Crassulaceae)
Aloe, haworthia, peperomia (Liliaceae)
Crown of thorns (Euphorbiaceae)
Elephant bush (Portulacaceae)
(5) Vines and woody climbers
Honeysuckle, grape
Morning glory, cypress vine, bitter melon (spiny gourd).
III. Home flower-growing management
Six essentials of flower growing: soil, fertilizer, water, protection, pruning, propagation
1. Soil
Soil is the foundation for the growth of flowers and trees. It is not only the support that fixes the plant root system for growth and development, but must also provide the nutrients, water, and air necessary for plant growth.
(1) Soil quality requirements
Fertile, harmless, loose, airy, water-retaining, fertilizer-retaining.
(2) Potting soil materials
For home flower growing, potting soil materials include, besides the generally commonly used soil, some mineral materials and biological materials. Therefore the meaning of potting soil is not limited to soil; these materials on which plants depend for survival are often collectively called substrates or media in cultivation. Commonly used substrates include: garden soil, mountain soil, pond mud, sand, worm castings, coal cinders, vermiculite, perlite, ceramsite, brick granules, rice husk, rice husk ash, sawdust, charcoal, grass clippings, bark, cottonseed hulls, peanut shells, pine needles, moss, coconut coir, sugarcane bagasse, etc.
(3) Soil acidity
The pH of soil affects the growth and development of flowers. Most flowers are suitable for slightly acidic soil with a pH value of 6.0-7.0 (soil pH 7 is neutral soil). Camellia, azalea, orchid, bromeliads, and other flowers require a more acidic soil environment. Usually a pH value of about 5-6 is required. Therefore these flowers must be grown in mountain soil rich in humus (orchid soil) to grow well. Dianthus, dahlia, cacti, pyracantha, pomegranate, grape, and kiwifruit have a broad range of adaptation to soil acidity and can grow in an environment of pH 6-8.
For soil that is strongly alkaline, sulfur powder or ferrous sulfate or aluminum sulfate can be added to adjust it. Usually the application rate of sulfur powder is 0.1-0.2% of the total soil amount. For soil that is too acidic, lime powder can be used to adjust it, with an application rate of 35-70 grams per square meter of land.
(4) Soil improvement
For soil where flowers are planted in courtyards, all kinds of construction waste within 40 cm of the soil surface must be cleared out. At the positions of tree pits for planting trees, new soil should be replaced within a depth of 60-80 cm. For greening land with heavy clay soil, add coarse sand and organic matter rich in fibrous material to facilitate drainage and increase the air permeability and organic matter content of the soil layer.
For the preparation of potting soil, according to the requirements of the plants being grown, pay attention to the air permeability, fertility, and suitable soil acidity of the soil. Usually a cultivation substrate is made from fertile garden soil (heated soil) plus rice husk ash in a ratio of 2-3:1. But for growing flowers in the city, limited by conditions, it is not easy to obtain high-quality culture soil. Then you can collect fallen leaves, sawdust, peanut shells, bean shells, eggshells, sugarcane bagasse, poultry feathers, fish bones, shrimp shells, and other urban household waste. After cutting and crushing them, add rice-washing water, place them in an old jar or plastic bag, and after a fairly long period of fermentation and decomposition, dry them in the sun, sift them, and mix them with some raw soil (soil excavated from roads and infrastructure) to prepare potting nutrient soil. The old soil replaced after repotting can also be mixed with household waste, composted, and reused.
Strict potting soil quality requires disinfection. For home flower growing, the simple sunlight disinfection method can be used: in summer, spread the soil flat on a cement slab, cover it with plastic film, and expose it to strong sunlight for 3-4 days. This can kill large numbers of fungal spores, hyphae, pest eggs, and nematodes in the soil. In addition, if conditions permit, heat disinfection and chemical disinfection can also be used.
2. Fertilization
Fertilizer is the source of nutrients needed for flower growth and directly affects the growth and development of flowers. For different plants, at different growth stages, applying the needed nutrient elements at the right time and in the right amount is what enables flowers to grow with luxuriant branches and leaves and to bloom profusely.
The 16 nutrient elements needed for flower growth
Carbon, hydrogen, oxygen (obtained from air and water)
Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, magnesium
Iron, boron, zinc, copper, manganese, molybdenum, chlorine
(1) Types of fertilizer
Organic fertilizer, one by one: fertilizer formed from animal and plant residues or excrement after processing, fermentation, and decomposition. Organic fertilizer contains complete nutrient elements needed by flowers. After being applied to soil, the nutrients gradually decompose. Although the effect is slow, the fertilizer effect lasts long, and it can also improve the soil, benefiting root development and the activity of beneficial soil microbes. Commonly used organic fertilizers include: livestock and poultry manure, fish meal, bone meal, plant ash, various cake fertilizers, and sesame oil residue, etc.
Inorganic fertilizer (chemical fertilizer), one by one: fertilizer made by chemical methods or processed from natural minerals. It has the advantages of high nutrient content, quick effect, convenient use, cleanliness, and hygiene, but its nutrient composition is single, and long-term use easily makes the soil compact. Commonly used ones include: urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, monopotassium phosphate, potassium chloride, potassium nitrate, etc., as well as processed compound fertilizers containing the three elements nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
(2) Preparation of organic fertilizer for home flower growing
Courtyard composting, one by one: use a shaded corner of the courtyard, dig a pit, and pile up daily leftover vegetable stems and leaves, bean shells, melon and fruit peels, herbal medicine residue, eggshells, shrimp and crab shells, poultry feathers, fish scales, fish innards, weeds, fallen leaves, etc. for composting. To prevent odor from spilling out, cover it with mud or plastic film.
Home bottle preparation, one by one: use small-mouthed waste plastic bottles such as cola bottles and blended oil bottles as containers, put in fish scales, fish innards, eel, shrimp shells, and other animal scraps, and after fermentation and decomposition make a high-quality liquid quick-acting fertilizer. Bad soybeans can also be soaked and fermented. When preparing bottle-made organic fertilizer, note: ① the amount of fish scraps put in is about 1/2-2/3 of the bottle capacity, and add water to near the bottle mouth (leave a certain gap).
① To reduce the odor during fertilizer fermentation, a portion of orange peel can be added at the same time. Generally, a 2.5-liter blended oil bottle can hold 3-4 orange peels. The orange peel can be torn into pieces or cut finely before putting in. Fresh orange peel can be used, and air-dried old orange peel can also be used.
③ After preparation, the bottle cap must be tightened and then backed off 2-3 threads to leave a gap for gas. Otherwise, due to fermentation inside the bottle, gas expansion may burst the cap open, causing odor to spill everywhere with unbearable consequences.
④ Bottle-made organic fertilizer takes 4-5 months to ferment in summer, and generally about a year to decompose. Its solution can be diluted with water and used to water flowers.
Use of broad bean shells, one by one: green broad bean pods are rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium nutrient elements and are easy to collect in the city, clean and hygienic. When preparing, the pods can be sun-dried, crushed, and stored for later use. They can be mixed in when making potting culture soil, or used as base fertilizer when repotting potted flowers or planting.
(3) Rational fertilization
① Base fertilizer, top dressing, foliar fertilization
Base fertilizer, one by one: mainly organic fertilizer with slow decomposition and long fertilizer effect. It is used for the whole annual growth period of flowers. For courtyard flower growing, in winter or early spring, dig trenches or holes around the main planted flowers and trees and bury it deeply, or apply it at the same time when the soil is plowed before planting. For potted flowers, it is mixed in when preparing culture soil, or applied to the bottom of the pot before planting. Commonly used base fertilizers include compost made from decomposed animal and plant residues, dried poultry and livestock manure, decomposed cake fertilizer crumbs, etc. In the city, the oil residue left after pressing small mill sesame oil can be used and has a good fertilizer effect. Some also use fried or boiled soybeans placed in the middle and lower layers of potted flowers as a supplementary base fertilizer.
Top dressing, one by one: apply inorganic fertilizer with quick effect that can be rapidly absorbed and used by flowers, or the leachate after fermentation of organic fertilizer, when needed at each stage of flower growth and development. Commonly used ones include urea, monopotassium phosphate, etc.
Foliar fertilization, one by one: also called root-outside top dressing. Dissolve chemical fertilizer in water and spray the plant so that nutrients penetrate into the plant body through the leaf underside. It has the characteristics of convenient operation and quick effect. When applying, note: control the chemical fertilizer concentration at 0.1-0.2%; too strong will cause harm to plants. For flowers grown on balconies and in the open air, the time for spraying fertilizer should be in the evening, to prevent strong sunlight after fertilization from increasing the fertilizer concentration and causing fertilizer damage. The spraying position should emphasize the leaf underside.
② Fertilization principles and methods
Suitable for the flower, suitable for the time, suitable for the condition, suitable in amount; apply thin fertilizer frequently
Suitable for the flower, one by one: foliage plants need more nitrogen fertilizer; fruit-viewing and flower-viewing plants need more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
Suitable for the time, one by one: when sending out branches and leaves, mainly nitrogen fertilizer; before flower bud differentiation, flower bud formation, and flowering, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
Suitable for the condition, one by one: "four more, four less, four not"
Apply more when yellow and thin, apply more before sprouting, apply more before budding, apply more after flowering. Apply less when fat and strong, apply less when sprouting, apply less when flowering, apply less in the rainy season. Do not apply when newly planted, do not apply when leggy, do not apply when diseased or weak, do not apply in midsummer.
Suitable in amount, one by one: thin fertilizer: for organic fertilizer use 7-8 parts water plus 2-3 parts fertilizer; for chemical fertilizer use a concentration of 0.1-0.3%.
Frequent application: once every 7-10 days during the growth period.
Three taboos of fertilization, one by one: avoid concentrated fertilizer; concentrated fertilizer causes cell sap to leak out and leads to death.
Avoid hot fertilizer; at noon in summer the soil temperature is high, and top dressing damages roots.
Avoid sitting fertilizer; after applying base fertilizer at the bottom of a flower pot, first cover it with a thin layer of soil.
Then plant the flower. Do not let the root system sit directly on the fertilizer.
3. Watering
Watering is the main management task in home flower growing. Water is an important component of plants and an indispensable main substance for physiological activities.
(1) Courtyard watering
In dry seasons, water must be replenished to keep the soil moist. In rainy seasons, attention must be paid to drainage to prevent the root system from suffocating and dying due to water accumulation and lack of oxygen.
When watering, keep the water temperature and soil temperature from differing by more than 5°C. In summer, water in the early morning and in the evening; in winter, water around midday.
(2) Watering potted flowers
① Watering principles - dry-wet alternation, do not water when not dry, water as soon as it is dry, and water thoroughly when watering.
Dry-wet alternation means keeping the soil sometimes dry and sometimes wet. This not only ensures a water supply for the flowers and trees, but also allows the potting soil to breathe, protecting root development.
The standard for "dry" is that the upper layer of potting soil is dry while the bottom soil still has some moisture, and the plant grows normally or the leaves wilt briefly at noon.
When flowering plants lack water, the first sign is wilting of the petals. If leaves and flowers show signs of water loss, water must be replenished immediately to restore vitality.
The principle of watering thoroughly means the amount of water should be enough that water seeps out from the bottom of the pot. Half-way water, with the potting soil wet on top and dry below, is a major taboo in potted flower care; it covers up the essence of water shortage with the appearance of surface moisture, causing root death from lack of water. Plants that have been cut off from water are very difficult to revive even if watered again as a rescue.
(3) More or less watering.
Herbaceous plants: water more; woody plants: water less. Moisture-loving flowers: water more; drought-loving flowers: water less.
Plants with large, soft leaves: water more; plants with small, waxy leaves: water less.
During vigorous growth: water more; once dormant: water less.
Large seedlings in small pots: water more; small seedlings in large pots: water less.
Balconies: water more; courtyards: water less. Summer: water more; winter: water less. Clear and dry: water more; cloudy: water less.
When buds are forming: water more; when flowering: water less.
(4) Rescuing drought-dehydrated and waterlogged, root-rotted plants
When woody plants are dehydrated from long-term drought and their stems and leaves wilt, but the stems still have life, they should first be moved to a shaded place to reduce water evaporation from the plant body. Also spray water to maintain humidity in the above-ground environment. After watering the roots, do not water continuously, to prevent root hypoxia. According to the dry-wet alternation principle, keep the soil breathable to encourage new roots and restore vitality. For severely dehydrated plants, prune appropriately according to the above-ground growth condition to help them sprout and leaf out again.
When prolonged rain causes water to accumulate in the potting soil and the plant suffers waterlogging, with branches and leaves wilting and losing vitality, the plant must be removed from the pot with its soil and placed in a cool, ventilated place so the root soil moisture can dissipate; after 3-5 days, once growth resumes, it can be repotted. During continuous rainy weather, outdoor potted plants can have their pots laid on their sides to avoid water accumulation. After long rainy weather, if it suddenly clears up with strong sunlight and the plant is exposed to the sun, the root system's growth will be damaged and the branches and leaves will transpire too strongly, causing severe water loss and death. Therefore, pay attention to strictly controlling water, moving the plants' position, and shading them for recovery.
(5) Different watering methods
When watering potted flowers, most should avoid pouring water directly over the top. After the flowers and leaves of gloxinia, African violet, and others are splashed with water, the flowers and leaves will rot. However, bromeliads require watering from the top so that the leaf cups store water to meet growth needs. Orchids and maranta-type flowers, besides appropriate watering, require spraying to raise the air humidity of the growing environment.
For indoor foliage plants, water requirements differ greatly according to the different growth characteristics of their places of origin. Araceae plants such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, and calla lily, along with ferns and Cyperus alternifolius, belong to the moisture-loving type of flowers; watering should follow "prefer wet over dry," but do not let them become waterlogged. Succulents such as snake plant, aloe, and sedum, along with cacti, are drought-loving flowers; watering should follow "prefer dry over wet" to prevent excessive water and root rot. Most other plants, such as asparagus fern, sago palm, and begonia, belong to the intermediate type of flowers; soil that is too dry or too wet both cause adverse reactions, and watering can follow the principle of "alternate dry and wet."
4. Flower protection
Home flower growing must protect flowers through summer and winter safely and prevent and control pests and diseases.
(1) Over-summering and overwintering
The suitable growth temperature for most flowers is 15-25°C. When the temperature exceeds 40°C or falls below the minimum temperature that different flowers can tolerate, the flowers will be harmed.
① Safe over-summering
The high temperatures and intense sunlight of summer often make some temperate plants unable to adapt to the severe heat, and make some shade-loving plants prone to sunburn. Therefore, home flower growing can use methods such as shading, ventilation, spraying water, and adjusting the placement of potted flowers to improve the environmental impact, lower the temperature, and help flowers pass the summer safely.
② Safe overwintering
Winter frost damage and freezing damage have a great impact on flower growth, and some cold-intolerant flowers will die from frost. In autumn, plants are still in the growth period, and some flowers suffer damage to all their leaves and buds as soon as the first frost comes. In spring, after dormancy, plants begin to sprout and germinate; if they are hit by a late frost at this time, the damage is also very serious. In the Suzhou area, the first frost period generally appears in early to mid-November, and the last frost period is from the end of March to early April. Therefore, during this period, in order to prevent frost damage and freezing damage from low temperatures below 0°C, for flowers that are easily harmed, courtyard cultivation can be protected by covering with soil or mulching with plastic film. Potted flowers on balconies can be protected by building a plastic shed against the south wall; in the evening, when there is severe cold, woven bags or burlap sacks and other coverings should also be added on the shed roof and around the sides for warmth. Already
on balconies enclosed with glass, cold-intolerant plants such as Milan, hibiscus, Christmas cactus, Impatiens walleriana, and croton should be moved indoors and covered with transparent plastic bags to protect them through the winter. To increase the cold resistance of flowers and trees in winter, watering should be controlled in management, but water still needs to be replenished in a timely manner according to conditions. Due to neglect in management, home flower growing in winter often also results in death from drying out.
(2) Pest and disease control
For pest and disease control in home flower growing, the principle of "prevention first" should be grasped. Strengthen management, improve the ventilation conditions of the growing environment, do a good job in fertilizer and water management and pruning work, so that flowers and trees grow robustly and strengthen their own ability to resist pests and diseases, and promptly remove dead branches and fallen leaves to prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
① Insect pests
Pests have two types according to their feeding methods.
Chewing pests:
They damage roots, stems, leaves, flowers, and fruits, and the damaged parts show notches, perforations, and holes. Such as green caterpillars, slug moths, longhorn beetles, and grubs (scarab beetle larvae), etc.
Use stomach poisons and contact insecticides such as deltamethrin, trichlorfon, fenvalerate, and phoxim, etc.
Sucking pests:
Pests pierce into the plant body with their mouthparts and suck out sap. Such as aphids, scale insects, and red spiders (mites), etc.
The damaged stems and leaves show symptoms such as spots, shriveling, and discoloration.
Use contact and systemic insecticides for control, such as dimethoate and propargite, etc.
③ Diseases
The pathogens of plant diseases mainly fall into three categories.
Fungal diseases:
Caused by fungal infection, mold-like or powdery substances can be seen growing on the host surface.
Symptoms include damping-off, seedling blight, spots, scabs, mildew rot, and wilting, etc.
Main chemicals used include carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, and chlorothalonil, etc.
Bacterial diseases:
Caused by bacteria, leaves develop water-soaked, semi-transparent lesions and are limited by the leaf veins.
Tender organs become necrotic, appearing slimy, with a foul odor. In wilted diseased stems, a cross-section shows browning of the vascular bundles.
Main chemicals used include: jinggangmycin, agricultural streptomycin, etc.
5. Pruning
Pruning and shaping flowers and trees can regulate growth, flowering, and fruiting. Pruning can also improve ventilation and light conditions and promote robust growth of branches and leaves. Common methods used in home flower growing include pinching, branch pruning, bud removal, and leaf removal.
(1) Pinching is often used on herbaceous flower seedlings. After the main stem of a herbaceous flower is removed, it helps promote the sprouting of lateral buds and increase branching, achieving the goal of dwarfing the plant and having more branches and more flowers. It can also adjust the flowering period. It is often applied to chrysanthemums, salvia, petunias, and marigolds, etc.
(2) Branch pruning There are two ways of branch pruning. One is to remove branches from the base, called thinning. Thinning is the removal of overly dense branches and crossing branches, leggy branches, weak branches, diseased and insect-damaged branches, and dead branches, which helps ventilation and light penetration in the tree body and enhances the plant's growth vigor. The other way is to shorten the branches, called heading back. Heading back can promote the sprouting of lateral buds on the branches, adjust growth vigor, and benefit flowering and fruiting. In winter, rose branches can be headed back leaving about 20-30 cm, which can control the plant's growth height and make spring flowering abundant and uniform. Heading back the leggy branches of wintersweet can promote the sprouting of lateral branches and form flowering branches for the next year. Different flowers and trees have different growth habits; some branches form flower buds from terminal buds, and some form flower buds from lateral buds, so heading back should also adopt correspondingly different methods.
(1) Bud removal During the growth period of flowers and trees, adventitious buds often appear; if allowed to grow, they consume nutrients, disturb the tree shape, and affect ventilation and light penetration, so they need to be removed in the early stage of bud sprouting. For grafted rose seedlings, the sprouts on the rootstock suckers are all wild roses and must all be removed.
(4) Leaf removal For some foliage plants, such as spider plant, lucky bamboo, Aspidistra, and calla lily, etc., some old leaves should be removed in time to promote new leaves. After jasmine is brought outdoors in spring, removing old leaves can promote the growth of many new branches and new leaves, vigorous growth, and more flower buds.
6. Propagation
In home flower growing, propagating your own new plants and new seedlings adds even more pleasure to growing flowers. Commonly used methods include sowing, cuttings, division, layering, and grafting.
(1) Sowing
Seeds must be collected after they are fully mature.
Dry, low-temperature storage conditions can extend seed life. For home storage, seeds can be packed in plastic bags and placed in the refrigerator crisper for storage.
Biennial herbaceous flowers that bloom in spring are sown in mid-to-late August. Annual flowers that bloom in autumn are sown from late March to early April in spring.
After sowing, the soil covering thickness should be 2-3 times the height of the seed.
Seed germination requires temperature, moisture, and air. Generally 20-25°C is most suitable for germination. The sowing bed soil must not become compacted or waterlogged, so as to provide the oxygen needed for germination.
After emergence, once they have 2-4 leaves, they should be transplanted.
(2) Cuttings
This uses the regenerative ability of plant organs such as roots, stems, leaves, and buds after being separated from the parent plant to cultivate new plants.
The soil (medium) used for cuttings should be loose, breathable, and harmless. For home propagation, materials such as rice husk ash, yellow sand, perlite, and vermiculite can be used.
For stem cuttings of woody plants, select fully grown current-year branches, take material 10-15 cm long with 3-4 buds, and insert 5-6 cm into the soil. The lower cut end of the cutting should be at a node. Dormant branch cuttings are done 10-15 days before budding. Green branch cuttings with leaves can be done throughout the growth period once the new branches have matured. But the above-ground leaves should be appropriately trimmed to reduce transpiration and benefit root formation.
For herbaceous plant cuttings, select plump young stems. Wax begonia, petunia, Impatiens walleriana, Impatiens hawkeri, salvia, and marigold all root easily from cuttings.
Most succulents can be propagated by leaf cuttings.
For home cuttings, use flower pots as cutting beds, line the bottom of the pot with tile pieces to aid drainage, keep the soil moist regularly, and keep the cutting pots out of direct sunlight. If you can spray frequently to maintain a certain air humidity, they can be placed in sunlight; rose cuttings in summer can root in about 10 days.
(3) Division and bulb separation
Some perennial flowers and shrubs, such as daylily, iris, asparagus fern, bamboo palm, Cyperus alternifolius, wintersweet, and peony, after growing for several years, have enlarged clumps, and in early spring or autumn, the clumps can be dug up and divided into several individual plants. When dividing, each plant should retain as many roots as possible and reduce the area of the cut wounds.
Bulbous flowers such as tulip, lily, narcissus, gladiolus, and oxalis can be propagated by separating small bulbs.
(4) Layering
For flowers and trees such as osmanthus, camellia, and wintersweet, branches close to the ground can be bent and pressed into the soil without detaching them from the parent plant, prompting the middle stem nodes of the buried branch portion to form roots. Usually layering is carried out in March-April. The buried portion needs to be notched or ring-barked to facilitate new roots from the callus tissue at the wound site. In autumn, cut below the rooted portion to produce a new plant.
On the upper part of the flower or tree plant, select a branch about 0.5-1.0 cm in diameter, perform ring-barking with a ring width of 0.3-1.5 cm. Wrap the outside with a bamboo tube or plastic bag and fill it with a breathable, moisture-retaining material to promote rooting at the ring-barked portion. This is called air layering. The suitable season for air layering is before the plum rain.
(5) Grafting (omitted)
The key to successful grafting lies in: the nutritional status of the grafting materials, compatibility, the temperature and humidity environment after grafting, and grafting technique. The commonly used methods are two: branch grafting and bud grafting.
IV. Home floral art
1. Flower arranging
Flower arranging uses fresh flowers as the main material and, through certain techniques, forms a living work of art, making the home environment more pleasing to the eye and full of vitality. For the flower arrangement configuration, the following main points should generally be grasped.
(1) Staggered heights The positions of the flower branches should be staggered front and back, high and low; never in the same straight line or on the same plane.
(2) Appropriate density The flower branches or leaves should not be arranged at equal distances from one another; there should be both sparseness and density.
(3) Combination of solid and void Flowers are solid, leaves are void; with both flowers and leaves, flowers as the main body and leaves as the accompaniment. Small flowers such as baby's breath can also be used as accompaniment to give the whole composition a hazy feel.
(4) Mutual response from above and below The flower branches above, below, left, and right should echo one another around the main flower branch, keeping the branches as a whole and balanced.
(5) Light on top, heavy below When combining flower branches, buds go above and fully open flowers go below; light-colored flowers go above and dark-colored flowers go below; small flowers with posture go above and large, spherical flowers go below. This makes the composition balanced and natural.
(6) Scattered above, gathered below In a combination of multiple flower branches, the upper flowers can be scattered and the lower flowers should be gathered.
European-style flower arranging forms a lush, geometric pattern with brilliant, vivid colors, embodying the beauty of artificial art and pattern. Eastern-style flower arranging often tends toward elegance and simplicity, advocating nature, being plain and refined, and rich in profound meaning.
2. Bonsai
Bonsai uses tree stumps, landscape stones, and other materials as raw material and, through artistic processing and careful cultivation, reproduces the spirit of nature in a pot. It is often called "silent poetry, three-dimensional painting."
(1) Tree stump bonsai
The shaping of tree stumps should display vigor and antique simplicity. The techniques to grasp are:
The lower part should show claws - exposing the roots below the tree above the soil.
The middle should have wrinkles - making the trunk curved, avoiding straightness. The bark should have cracks or wrinkles.
The upper part should form clouds - the crown, flowers, and leaves lush like clouds.
When planting two plants together in a pot, it is best to have one large and one small, like an old one leading a young one; the old tree amiable and affectionate, the young tree graceful and well-proportioned, like people standing together, looking at one another. With three or more plants, the greatest taboo is roots and tops all aligned, shaped like a tied bundle of firewood; they must yield to one another left and right and interweave naturally.
(2) Landscape bonsai
With landscape stones as the main body, it expresses the profound artistic conception of natural mountains and waters. The capacity of the bonsai should embody "one peak suggests Mount Tai's thousand fathoms, one spoon suggests rivers and lakes for ten thousand li." Its value lies in showing the large within the small and being captivating.
Landscape bonsai should apply the principles of perspective, with near large and far small, near solid and far void, to make the scenery majestic and profound. According to the principle of seeing the far within the near, the layout of landscape bonsai has three types:
① High distance - looking up at the mountain from below the mountain is called high distance.
The landscape stones should occupy about 6/10 of the pot surface.
The ratio of the main peak height to the pot rim height is 20-25:1.
It is often mainly a single block of landscape stone, or with a slightly lower accompanying scene near the main body to set off the main scene.
③ Deep distance - peering at the landscape stones from in front of the mountain is called deep distance.
The landscape stones generally occupy about 5/10 of the pot surface.
The ratio of the main peak height to the pot rim height is 15:1.
The mountain group is arranged longitudinally in a "zigzag" shape, jagged and interlocking, solid in front and void behind, layer upon layer. The mountain peaks appear and hide, partly visible and partly concealed, making the scene deep and far.
④ Level distance - looking into the distance from a nearby mountain is called level distance.
In the level distance layout, the whole scene is mostly water, with mountains as level ridges and small mounds; the mountain forms are gentle with few gullies, arranged in scattered, winding order.
The landscape stone occupies about 3/10 of the pot surface.
The ratio of the main peak height to the pot height is 6:1.
Landscape bonsai must handle blank space well; blank space represents the water surface, making water wind around the mountains and the mountains come alive because of the water; mountains are solid and water is void: they complement each other. Generally, to express a broad water surface, blank space can occupy more than 2/3. To express mountains as the main subject, blank space can occupy 1/3.
Landscape bonsai can be embellished with figures, birds and beasts, towers, pavilions, pagodas, bridges, boats, and sails. But attention must be paid to proportion and to reasonable harmony and unity with the scenery. The scene can be set according to the size scale of "zhang for mountains, chi for trees, cun for horses, fen for people."
3. Hydroponic flowers
Hydroponic flowers do not use a growing medium; ornamental plants are grown in nutrient solution. It is currently a very novel way of growing flowers at home. Its greatest advantages are that it is clean and hygienic, has few pests and diseases, is simple to maintain, and also allows you to observe the growth of the plant root system.
Flowers suitable for hydroponics are quite broad, including aquatic plants, moisture-loving plants, intermediate plants, and a group of plants that are relatively less drought-tolerant. For home hydroponics, species with moderate plant shape and beautiful flowers and leaves should be chosen, so they can be placed on desks and tables. Commonly used ones include: water hyacinth, spatterdock, Cyperus alternifolius, arrowhead plant, pothos, Philodendron, inch plant, lucky bamboo, bamboo palm, spider plant, English ivy, narcissus, hyacinth, amaryllis, tulip, nasturtium, maranta, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, aucuba, and bromeliads, etc.
Hydroponic containers can use various transparent glass vessels; for simple home cultivation, mineral water bottles can also be used. Placing some colored glass marbles in the container can both fix the root system and add color to the cultivation vessel.
A simple general formula for hydroponic nutrient solution: add 0.74 g calcium nitrate, 0.48 g potassium nitrate, 0.12 g monopotassium phosphate, and 0.37 g magnesium sulfate per 1000 g of water. At home, a 0.1-0.2% urea and monopotassium phosphate solution can also be used. For bulbous flowers and short-term water-grown foliage plants, when chemical raw materials are not easy to purchase, clean water can also be used for water cultivation.
The water in water culture needs to be changed frequently, which can reduce water quality deterioration and increase the oxygen in the water. The water level in bottle culture should not be too high; it is best to let part of the root base be exposed to the air to facilitate oxygen absorption.
4. Bottle culture
Use glass bottles, goldfish tanks and other glass vessels to grow flowers, creating a "bottle landscape" or "glass garden."
For plants grown in bottles, the more suitable ones often include ferns, spider plant, wandering Jew, begonia, cordyline, small-leaf ivy, Acorus gramineus, cactus types and succulents, etc. When planting, several compatible plants are often used to arrange a bottle landscape; the bottle top can be sealed or covered. At the bottom of the bottle, first spread charcoal crumbs, sand and gravel, peat, perlite, sphagnum moss, etc. as the substrate, then plant the flowers. Outside the glass bottle, one can watch a group of garden scenery grow, with endless charm and a unique style.
5. Combined pot planting
Combined pot planting uses multiple ornamental plants, with artistic arrangement techniques, planted together in one container to form the collective beauty of flowers. Generally, one container can combine 3-5 kinds of plants. When combining, pay attention to the following.
(1) The plant traits in the combination should be similar. For example, shade-tolerant or sun-loving, moisture-tolerant or not moisture-tolerant should each be grouped separately for easier management.
(2) Flower shape and flower color should match leaf shape and leaf color. This makes the combined group create beauty in aspects such as color, form, posture and charm.
(3) The container should harmonize with the landscape plants in the group. The texture, size, color and shape of the container all affect the style of the pot planting.
(4) In a pot planting combination, first determine the main plant. Generally, the main landscape plant should be placed in the center or at the 2/3 position of a long pot, then some companion plants should be arranged. Gaps can also be left and decorated with pebbles or shells. At the edge of the container, trailing plants can also be planted to hang down and conceal the rim.
(5) According to the condition of the container, the combined plants can be treated differently by removing them from their pots or planting them in their original pots.
V. Common misunderstandings in flower growing
Misunderstanding one: watering too much
In summer, giving flowers more “drink” is not always better. You can water once every morning, and in the evening appropriately water again depending on how dry the potting soil is; try not to water during the daytime. When watering, water thoroughly, judged by water flowing out from the bottom of the pot. For some flowers with fleshy roots, such as clivia, the amount of water must be controlled; if the flowers “drink” too much, root rot is very likely. These flowers also cannot withstand exposure to strong sun, so when it is relatively dry at noon, you can appropriately spray some water on the leaf surface. For some more drought-tolerant flowers, such as cacti and succulents in the Crassulaceae family, give less “drink”; too much water easily causes root rot.
Misunderstanding two: placing them indoors
Summer sunlight is strong, so simply move the flowers indoors. But they will instead grow poorly due to lack of sunlight. Sun-loving flowers are not afraid of strong sunlight, but at noon they still need appropriate shading. If they are neutral, then appropriate shading is needed. If they are balcony pot flowers, they can be moved indoors every day from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. If they are shade-loving, then contact with strong light must absolutely be prevented.
Misunderstanding three: fertilizing too much
If too much fertilizer is applied, the flowers cannot absorb it and the root system is harmed instead. Of course, flowers that generally bloom in summer are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, so a moderate amount of extra fertilizer can be applied, such as crape myrtle, jasmine, garden balsam, cockscomb, dahlia, etc.; fertilizer can be supplemented during the flowering period to make them lush with branches and leaves. For some ornamental-fruit flowers such as kumquat and five-color pepper, applying phosphorus fertilizer after the flowers fade can make them bear more fruit. For tropical foliage plants such as rubber tree and Monstera deliciosa, nitrogen fertilizer should be supplemented to make the leaves greener. Apply thin fertilizer frequently; too high a concentration easily causes fertilizer burn.
VI. Common flower poisonings
Oleander
It blooms in spring, summer and autumn every year. It is a flower that can be ornamental and medicinal, but can also poison people. Its stems, leaves and even flowers are toxic. If its scent is smelled for too long, it can make people drowsy and reduce intelligence. The milky white sap it secretes can cause poisoning if swallowed by mistake.
Poinsettia
The whole plant is toxic, especially the white sap in the stems and leaves, which can irritate the skin, causing redness and swelling and allergic reactions. If the stems or leaves are eaten by mistake, there is a risk of poisoning and death.
Narcissus
Growing it at home is generally no problem, but do not break its bulb, because it contains lycorine toxin, and accidental ingestion can cause vomiting and enteritis; the sap of the leaves and flowers can cause skin redness and swelling. Take special care not to get this sap into the eyes.
Corn poppy
The whole plant is toxic and contains toxic alkaloids, with the fruit being the most toxic. If eaten by mistake, it can cause central nervous system poisoning, and in severe cases may even endanger life.
Calla lily
The flower is toxic and contains large amounts of calcium oxalate crystals and alkaloids, etc. Accidental ingestion can cause symptoms such as coma and poisoning.
Lantana
Both flowers and leaves are toxic. Accidental ingestion can cause symptoms such as diarrhea and fever.
Datura flower
Also known as belladonna flower, it is common in rural areas south of the Yangtze River. Children who eat it by mistake will be poisoned.
Night-blooming cestrum
At night, after stopping photosynthesis, it releases a large amount of waste gas. This waste gas smells very fragrant, but it is harmful to human health. If it is kept indoors for a long time, it can cause dizziness and coughing, and even asthma and insomnia. Therefore, if night-blooming cestrum is placed indoors during the day, it should be moved outdoors in the evening.
Tulip
The flower contains toxic alkaloids. If people and animals stay in a cluster of these flowers for 2 hours to 3 hours, they will feel dizzy and dizzy, showing poisoning symptoms, and in severe cases hair may fall out. It is not suitable to grow at home.
Lycoris
It contains lycorine alkaloids, and the whole plant is toxic. Accidental ingestion causes vomiting and diarrhea, and in severe cases can also cause speech impairment and bleeding from the mouth and nose.
Rhododendron
The plants and flowers of yellow rhododendron both contain toxins, and accidental ingestion causes poisoning; the flowers of white rhododendron contain tetracyclic diterpenoid toxins. After poisoning, people may experience vomiting, difficulty breathing, numbness of the limbs, etc., and severe cases may cause shock, seriously harming human health.
Bauhinia flower
If people come into contact with the pollen it releases for too long, it can trigger asthma or worsen coughing symptoms.
Larkspur
Also known as radish flower, the whole plant is toxic, and the seeds are more toxic, mainly containing terpenoid alkaloids. Accidental ingestion can cause nervous system poisoning, and in severe cases spasms and respiratory failure leading to death.
Nandina
It stands gracefully, yet the whole plant is toxic, mainly containing nandine, nandinin, etc. After accidental ingestion, it easily causes systemic convulsions, spasms, coma and other poisoning symptoms.
Mimosa
It contains mimosine. Too much contact with this toxin can cause sparse eyebrows and hair turning yellow or even falling out. Therefore, do not fiddle with it too much with your fingers.
Dieffenbachia
The leaves contain oxalic acid and asparagine. Accidental ingestion causes pain in the mouth, throat, esophagus, stomach and intestines, and in severe cases damages the vocal cords and makes a person mute.
Wisteria
Its seeds, stems and bark are all toxic. The seeds contain cytisine. Accidental ingestion causes vomiting and diarrhea, and in severe cases can also cause bleeding from the mouth and nose, cold hands and feet, and even shock and death.
Chinese rose
The rich fragrance it gives off can make some people suddenly feel chest tightness and discomfort and difficulty breathing after smelling it.
Lily
If its fragrance is smelled for too long, it can overexcite the central nervous system and cause insomnia.
Cactus plants
The spines contain toxic sap. After the human body is pricked, it can cause allergic symptoms such as skin redness, swelling, pain and itching, making the whole body uncomfortable and unsettled.
Pines and cypresses
The fragrant scent released by these flowers and trees has an irritating effect on the human gastrointestinal tract. If smelled for too long, it not only affects appetite, but also makes pregnant women feel restless, nauseated and dizzy.
Orchid
If the fragrance it releases is smelled for too long, it can make people overly excited and cause insomnia.
Hydrangea
If the tiny particles it releases come into contact with people, they can cause itching of the skin in some people.
Beautiful flowers and ornamental plants such as crown-of-thorns, garden balsam, iris, snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata), red-backed sage, croton, Euphorbia antiquorum and Euphorbia neriifolia. The cancer-promoting effects of these plants have been confirmed in research on nasopharyngeal cancer and esophageal cancer.
Some plants have overly strong floral fragrances, such as night-blooming cestrum and lantana. Being surrounded by this smell for a long time is unbearable. Even for famous fragrant flowers such as narcissus and rose, they may at first feel fragrant and pleasant, but after a long time, especially while sleeping, breathing in these scents becomes unbearable……
There are also some plants such as poinsettia, poppy, oleander and zhuangyuanhong, which release toxic scents. Frequent contact is even more harmful to the human body. Even some flower plants that have medicinal effects on people are not good for health if healthy people live with them day and night and come into close contact with them.
For evergreen, botanists have determined that it contains some toxic enzymes (commonly known as dumb-stick enzymes). When the sap of its stems and leaves touches the skin, it has a strong irritating effect. If an infant bites it by mistake, strong irritation of the oral mucosa can cause throat edema, and even vocal cord paralysis and loss of voice. Therefore, people commonly call evergreen “dumb stick,” and there is a saying, “the flower is pretty, but the poison is hard to bear.”
VII. Simple homemade flower pesticides
Below are some pesticides that both prevent insects and treat diseases, do not pollute the environment, are easy to obtain materials for, and are simple to use. Everyone might as well give them a try.
I. Pest control In home flower growing, common pests include aphids, scale insects, whiteflies, thrips, leafhoppers, lace bugs, ants, red spiders, etc.
(1) Ginkgo Crush the fruit in a mortar and add an equal amount of water, then filter to obtain the stock solution. When using, take the stock solution and dilute it with water at a volume ratio of 1:2 and spray, which can control aphids. (2) Oriental arborvitae Wash the cypress fruit clean, crush it, add water at a weight ratio of 1:5 and soak for 24 hours, then take the filtrate and spray directly, which can control leafhoppers. (3) Peach Take peach leaves, add water at a weight ratio of 1:6, boil for 30 minutes, take the filtrate and spray directly, which can control aphids and other mollusks. (4) Tung tree Cut old leaves into pieces, add water at a weight ratio of 1:3-5; or use fruit peel, add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, both soaked for 24 hours; the filtrate can control aphids. (5) Chinese pulsatilla Wash the plant clean, cut it into pieces, crush it, add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, soak for 23 hours, or boil for half an hour; the filtrate can control aphids, leafhoppers and lace bugs. (6) Japanese bindweed Wash the stems clean, cut them into pieces, crush them, add water at a weight ratio of 1:5, soak for 24 hours; the filtrate can control aphids, leafhoppers and lace bugs. (7) Sun spurge Cut the stems and leaves into pieces, crush them, add water at a weight ratio of 1:4, boil for 1-2 hours, take the filtrate and spray to control aphids and red spiders. (8) Mint Cut mint into pieces, crush it, add water at a weight ratio of 1:5, soak for 24 hours; the filtrate can control leafhoppers and lace bugs. (9) Chili pepper Add water to chili pepper at a weight ratio of 1:10, boil for half an hour, take the filtrate and spray to control aphids and stink bugs. (10) Tobacco Take tobacco leaves, add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, soak for 24 hours, or boil for 1 hour, and use the filtrate to soak through the potting soil, which can kill ants in the pot; or take the filtrate, dilute it with an equal amount of water, and add a little soap, which can control aphids, red spiders, thrips and leafhoppers. (11) Sichuan pepper Use Sichuan pepper, add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, boil it down to 5 parts stock solution, then dilute with water at a volume ratio of 1:10 and spray, which can control whiteflies and aphids.
II. Disease control In home flower growing, common diseases include powdery mildew, rust, gray mold, rot, leaf spot, damping-off, etc.
(1) Masson pine Take pine needles, add water at a weight ratio of 1:2-3, and boil for 2 hours so that it becomes slightly glue-like; take the filtrate and dilute with water at a volume ratio of 1:1, which can control root rot. (2) Hibiscus Take hibiscus flowers, add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, soak for 24 hours; the filtrate can control root rot and damping-off. (3) Ginger Crush ginger and squeeze the juice, then dilute the juice with water at a volume ratio of 1:20 and spray, which can control rot. (4) Chives Crush chives, add water at a weight ratio of 1.6:10, then stir evenly and take the filtrate to spray, which can control rust and also aphids. (5) Scallion Crush scallions, add water at a weight ratio of 2:1.5, filter and spray, which can control powdery mildew and also aphids. (6) Garlic Crush garlic, add water at a weight ratio of 1:1, stir evenly, then take the juice, dilute the juice with water at a volume ratio of 1:3 and spray, which can control powdery mildew, gray mold and root rot, and also aphids, red spiders and other mollusks.
III. Others
(1) Baking soda Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) has the effect of inhibiting fungal growth. Spraying with a 0.1%-0.2% baking soda solution can control powdery mildew. (2) Plant ash Take plant ash, add water at a weight ratio of 3:10, soak for 49 hours, and after clarification spray it on plants, which can control aphids and gray mold, etc. (3) Mosquito coil Light a mosquito coil containing pyrethrin and place it in a flower pot, then seal the pot with a plastic cover and fumigate for 50 minutes to 60 minutes, which can kill red spiders. (4) Essential balm Spray with essential balm diluted 600 times to 800 times, which can control aphids, scale insects, red spiders, etc. (5) Laundry detergent Add water to laundry detergent at a weight ratio of 1:150, stir evenly, then spray once every 5 days, continuously spraying 2 times to 3 times, which can control aphids, red spiders, scale insects, whiteflies, etc. (6) Potassium permanganate Use a 0.02%-0.03% potassium permanganate aqueous solution, spraying once every 2 days to 3 days, and spraying twice for severe cases, which can control powdery mildew.
Flower-growing knowledge 1
Benefits of growing flowers at homeI.
Add interest to life, make life more vibrant, benefit physical and mental health, cultivate noble sentiments, and inspire feelings for life. Meeting friends through flowers brings great joy.
Flower-viewing seasons - view flowers in spring, fragrance in summer, fruit in autumn, and greenery in winter.
Flower-viewing grades - viewing with tea is best, viewing with conversation is second, viewing with wine is lowest.
Flower-viewing standards - color, fragrance, posture, charm.
II.
Improve the living environment and implement green environmental protection.
1. Green plants can absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen. Every square meter of green plants absorbs 90 g of carbon dioxide and releases 60 g of oxygen per day.
2. Absorb harmful gases. Absorb formaldehyde - snake plant, Commelina communis, ivy, spider plant, aloe.
Absorb benzene - ivy, chrysanthemum, sago cycad.
Absorb chlorine - Aglaia odorata, chrysanthemum, Chinese rose, Archontophoenix alexandrae, Chinese fan palm.
3. The sterilizing effect of volatile oils from fresh flowers
The fragrant aroma of jasmine and clove can kill native bacteria in 5 minutes.
4. Regulate temperature
Green plants in urban greening areas can absorb up to 6080 calories of sunlight in summer, lowering the environmental temperature by 3.8°C and shortening the duration of high temperatures each day by 3 hours. Vertical greening on walls can lower wall surface temperature by 5°C.
Ways of growing flowers at home and commonly used plants
I.
Courtyard flower growing
Combine trees and shrubs with flowers and grasses; combine deciduous plants with evergreen plants; combine foliage viewing with flower and fruit viewing; combine ornamental value with practical use; fully develop three-dimensional space, so the scenery has a fresh sense of seasonal change.
Plants suitable for planting in small courtyards:
1. Small trees:
Osmanthus, banana shrub, camellia, citrus, loquat, bamboo, crape myrtle, cherry blossom, crabapple, lilac, maple, pomegranate, jujube, persimmon, etc.
2. Shrubs:
Gardenia, Serissa japonica, Pyracantha, Nandina, wintersweet, Chinese rose, peony, rhododendron, crabapple, redbud, Daphne odora, hydrangea, Hypericum, etc.
3. Herbaceous plants:
Banana, wandering Jew, Tiarella, Ophiopogon,
Iris, daylily, peony, hosta, torch lily, Michaelmas daisy, phlox, dahlia, lily, narcissus, tuberose, amaryllis, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes candida, canna, Oxalis corymbosa, dichondra, Manila grass, hybrid bermuda grass, Sedum sarmentosum, scallion, Kalimeris, chrysanthemum greens, lotus, water lily, hosta, etc.
(4) Vines: Banks rose, honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, ivy, wisteria, Boston ivy, grape, kiwi, morning glory, cypress vine, etc.
II.
Growing flowers on balconies and indoors
Plants suitable for growing on balconies and indoors:
1. Foliage plants:
Spider plant, ivy, wandering Jew, Syngonium, Vinca major, rubber tree, small sago cycad, Rhapis excelsa, Areca palm, Chamaedorea elegans, asparagus fern, croton, red-backed sage, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, bamboo palm, bromeliads, Maranta, ferns, Cyperus alternifolius, pothos, Philodendron, cordyline, Dracaena fragrans, Aglaonema, lucky bamboo, Pachira aquatica (money tree), Caladium, Begonia maculata, etc.
2. Flowering plants:
Chinese rose, winter jasmine, plum bonsai, potted crape myrtle, Daphne odora, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, Chinese hibiscus.
Clivia, amaryllis, lily, hyacinth, narcissus, Oxalis corymbosa, calla lily, cyclamen, freesia, Ranunculus asiaticus. Chinese orchid, tropical orchid, chrysanthemum, Gerbera, wax begonia, petunia, Tropaeolum majus, Pelargonium, fuchsia, Impatiens holstii, Impatiens hawkeri.
3. Fruit-viewing plants:
Nandina, fingered citron, bitter orange, kumquat, calamondin. Pyracantha, goji, small pomegranate, winter cherry, ornamental pepper, strawberry.
4. Cacti and succulents: cactus, cactus ball, Schlumbergera, Christmas cactus, Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, agave, snake plant, Beaucarnea recurvata (Agavaceae), Lampranthus, rainbow bush, Oscularia deltoides, Lithops (Aizoaceae), Aeonium, Echeveria, Crassula ovata (jade plant), Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Sedum sarmentosum (Crassulaceae), aloe, Haworthia, Peperomia (Liliaceae), crown-of-thorns (Euphorbiaceae), Portulacaria afra (Portulacaceae).
5. Vines: honeysuckle, grape, morning glory, cypress vine, bitter melon (spiny bitter gourd).
Home flower-growing management Six essentials for growing flowers: soil, fertilizer, water, protection, pruning, propagation
1、
Soil
Soil is the foundation for the growth of flowers and trees. It not only serves as the support that anchors the root system for growth and development, but also provides the essential nutrients, water and air for plant growth.
(1) Soil quality requirements: fertile, harmless, loose, well-aerated, water-retentive and fertilizer-retentive.
(2) Potting soil materials. For home flower growing, the potting soil materials include, besides the commonly used soil, some mineral materials and biological materials. Therefore, the meaning of potting soil is not limited to soil alone; these materials on which plants depend for survival are often collectively called substrate or medium in cultivation. Commonly used substrates include: garden soil, mountain soil, pond mud, sand, worm castings, coal cinders, vermiculite, perlite, expanded clay pellets, brick granules, rice husk, rice husk ash, wood shavings, wood charcoal, grass clippings, tree bark, cottonseed hulls, peanut shells, pine needles, moss, coconut coir, sugarcane bagasse, etc.
(3) Soil acidity. The pH of the soil affects the growth and development of flowers. Most flowers are suited to slightly acidic soil with a pH value of 6.0-7.0 (soil pH 7 is neutral soil). Flowers such as camellia, rhododendron, orchid and bromeliads require a more acidic soil environment, usually requiring a pH value of around 5-6. Therefore, for the cultivation of these flowers, mountain soil rich in humus (orchid soil) must be selected for them to grow well. Dianthus, dahlia, cacti, pomegranate, grape and kiwifruit have a broad adaptability to soil acidity and can grow in an environment with pH 6-8. For heavily alkaline soil, sulfur powder or ferrous sulfate and aluminum sulfate can be added for adjustment; the usual application rate of sulfur powder is 0.1-0.2% of the total soil volume. For overly acidic soil, lime powder can be used for adjustment, with an application rate of 35-70 grams per sq m of land.
(4) Soil improvement
For soil used for growing flowers in courtyards, various construction debris within 40cm of the soil surface must be cleared away. At the positions of planting pits for trees, the soil within a pit depth of 60-80cm should be replaced with new soil. For greening land with heavy clay soil, coarse sand and organic matter rich in fibrous material should be added to facilitate drainage and increase the aeration and organic matter content of the soil layer.
The preparation of potting soil should, according to the requirements of the plants being grown, emphasize the aeration, fertility and suitable soil acidity of the soil. Usually, fertile garden soil (heated soil) is mixed with rice husk ash in a ratio of 2-3:1 to make a cultivation substrate. However, for flower growing in cities, limited by conditions, it is not easy to obtain high-quality culture soil. In that case, urban household waste such as fallen leaves, sawdust, peanut shells, bean pods, eggshells, sugarcane bagasse, poultry feathers, fish bones and shrimp shells can be collected, finely cut or crushed, added with rice-washing water, placed in an old jar or plastic bag, and after a long period of fermentation and decomposition, sun-dried, sieved, and mixed with some raw soil (soil excavated from road and infrastructure construction) to prepare potting nutrient soil. The old soil replaced after repotting can also be mixed with household waste, piled and composted, and reused.
Strictly speaking, potting soil needs to be disinfected. For home flower growing, a simple sunlight disinfection method can be used: in summer, spread the soil flat on a cement slab, cover it with plastic film, and expose it to strong sunlight for 3-4 days, which can kill a large number of fungal spores, mycelium, pest eggs and nematodes in the soil. In addition, if conditions permit, heat sterilization and chemical disinfection can also be used.
2、
Fertilization
Fertilizer is the source of nutrients needed for flower growth and directly affects the growth and development of flowers. For different plants, at different growth stages, applying the required nutrient elements at the right time and in the right amount is what enables flowers to grow with luxuriant branches and leaves and to bloom profusely.
The 16 nutrient elements needed for flower growth: carbon, hydrogen, oxygen (obtained from air and water), nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, magnesium, iron, boron, zinc, copper, manganese, molybdenum, chlorine
(1) Types of fertilizer
Organic fertilizer -- fertilizer formed from animal and plant residues or excrement after processing, fermentation and decomposition. Organic fertilizer contains complete nutrient elements needed by flowers. After being applied to the soil, the nutrients are gradually decomposed. Although the effect is slow, the fertilizer effect is long-lasting, and it can also improve the soil and benefit root development and the activity of beneficial soil microorganisms. Commonly used organic fertilizers include: livestock and poultry manure, fish meal, bone meal, plant ash, various cake fertilizers and sesame oil residue, etc.
Inorganic fertilizer (chemical fertilizer) -- fertilizer made by chemical methods or processed from natural minerals. It has the advantages of high nutrient content, quick effect, convenient use, and being clean and hygienic, but its nutritional composition is single, and long-term use tends to compact the soil. Commonly used ones include: urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, potassium chloride, potassium nitrate, etc., as well as compound fertilizers that have been processed and blended to contain the three elements nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
(2) Preparation of organic fertilizer for home flower growing
Courtyard composting -- use a shaded corner of the courtyard, dig a pit, and pile up for decomposition the daily leftover vegetable stems and leaves, bean pods, melon and fruit peels, herbal medicine residue, eggshells, shrimp and crab shells, poultry feathers, fish scales, fish innards, weeds, fallen leaves, etc. To prevent odors from escaping, cover with mud or plastic film.
Home bottle preparation -- use small-mouthed waste plastic bottles such as cola bottles and cooking oil bottles as containers, put in animal trimmings such as fish scales, fish innards, eel and shrimp shells, and after fermentation and decomposition, make a high-quality liquid quick-acting fertilizer. Soaked and decomposed spoiled yellow soybeans can also be used.
When preparing bottle-made organic fertilizer, note the following:
①
The amount of fish trimmings added should be about 1/2-2/3 of the bottle capacity. Add water to near the bottle mouth (some space must be left).
②
To reduce the odor during fertilizer fermentation, a portion of orange peel can be added at the same time. Generally, for a 2.5-liter cooking oil bottle, 3-4 orange peels can be placed. The orange peel can be torn into pieces or cut finely before putting in. Fresh orange peel can be used, and air-dried old orange peel can also be used.
③
After preparation, after the bottle cap is tightened, it must be unscrewed back by 2-3 threads to leave a gap for gas release. Otherwise, due to fermentation inside the bottle, the gas expands and forces the cap off, causing an unbearable situation of odor spreading everywhere.
④
Bottle-made organic fertilizer requires 4-5 months of fermentation in summer, and generally about one year to fully decompose. Its solution can be diluted with water and used to water flowers.
Use of broad bean pods -- green broad bean pods are rich in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium nutrient elements, and are easy to collect in cities, clean and hygienic. When preparing, the pods can be sun-dried, ground into pieces and stored for later use. They can be mixed in when making potting culture soil, and can also be applied as base fertilizer when repotting pot flowers or planting.
(3) Rational fertilization
① Base fertilizer, top dressing, foliar fertilization
Base fertilizer -- mainly organic fertilizer with slow decomposition and long-lasting fertilizer effect, used for the whole year's growth period of flowers. For courtyard flower growing, in winter or early spring, dig trenches or holes around the main planted flowers and trees and bury it deeply, or apply it when the soil is plowed before planting. For potted flowers, it is mixed in when preparing culture soil, or applied to the bottom of the flower pot before planting. Commonly used base fertilizers include compost made from decomposed animal and plant residues, dried poultry and livestock manure, decomposed cake fertilizer crumbs, etc. In cities, the oil residue left after pressing small-mill sesame oil can be used and has a fairly good fertilizer effect. Fried or boiled soybeans are also sometimes put into the middle and lower layers of pot flowers as a supplementary base fertilizer.
Top dressing -- using quick-acting inorganic fertilizer that can be rapidly absorbed and utilized by flowers, or the leachate after fermentation of organic fertilizer, to add when needed at each stage of flower growth and development. Commonly used ones include urea, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, etc.
Foliar fertilization -- also called root-outside top dressing. After dissolving chemical fertilizer in water, spray it on the plants so that nutrients penetrate into the plant body through the back of the leaves. It has the characteristics of convenient operation and quick effect. When applying, note: the chemical fertilizer concentration should be kept at 0.1-
0.2%; too high a concentration will cause harm to plants. For flowers grown on balconies and in the open air, the time for spraying fertilizer should be in the evening, to prevent strong sunlight after fertilization from increasing the fertilizer concentration and causing fertilizer damage. The spraying position should emphasize the back of the leaves.
② Fertilization principles and methods
Suit the flower, suit the time, suit the condition, suit the amount; apply thin fertilizer frequently
Suit the flower -- foliage plants should receive more nitrogen fertilizer; fruit and flowering plants should receive more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
Suit the time -- when shoots and leaves are sprouting, mainly nitrogen fertilizer; before flower bud differentiation, flower bud formation and flowering, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
Suit the condition -- the "four more, four less, four no": apply more when yellow and thin, apply more before sprouting, apply more before budding, apply more after flowering. Apply less when fat and strong, apply less when sprouting, apply less when flowering, apply less in the rainy season. Do not apply when newly planted, do not apply when leggy, do not apply when diseased or weak, do not apply in midsummer.
Suit the amount -- thin fertilizer: for organic fertilizer, use 7-8 parts water plus 2-3 parts fertilizer; for chemical fertilizer, use a concentration of 0.1-0.3%. Apply frequently: once every 7-10 days during the growth period. The three taboos of fertilization -- avoid concentrated fertilizer, which causes cell sap to exude outward and leads to death.
Avoid hot fertilizer; at noon in summer the soil temperature is high, and top dressing harms the roots.
Avoid sitting fertilizer; after applying base fertilizer at the bottom of a pot flower, first cover it with a thin layer of soil.
Then plant the flower. Avoid the root system sitting directly on the fertilizer.
3、
Watering
Watering is the main management task in home flower growing. Water is an important component of plants and an indispensable main substance for physiological activities.
(1) Courtyard watering
In dry seasons, water must be supplemented to keep the soil moist. In rainy seasons, attention must be paid to drainage to prevent the root system from suffocating and dying due to water accumulation and lack of oxygen.
When watering, keep the water temperature and soil temperature from differing by no more than 5°C. In summer, water in the early morning and evening; in winter, water around noon.
(2) Watering pot flowers
Watering principle -- alternately dry and wet, do not water when not dry, water as soon as it is dry, and water thoroughly.
Alternately dry and wet means making the soil dry at times and wet at times. This not only ensures water supply for the flowers and trees, but also keeps the potting soil aerated and protects root development.
The standard for dryness is that the upper layer of the potting soil is dry, the bottom soil still has some moisture, and the plant grows normally or the leaves show brief wilting at noon.
For flowering plants, the first sign of water shortage is wilting of the petals. If leaves and flowers show signs of water loss, water must be supplemented immediately to restore vitality.
The principle of watering thoroughly means that the amount of water should be such that water is seen seeping out from the bottom of the pot. Half-way water that makes the upper potting soil wet and the lower part dry is a major taboo in pot flower management, because it uses the moist appearance of the potting soil surface to conceal the essence of water shortage, causing root water shortage and death. Plants that have been cut off from water are very difficult to revive even if watered to rescue them.
(3) More or less watering.
Water more for herbaceous plants, less for woody plants; water more for moisture-loving flowers, less for drought-loving flowers;
Water more for large, soft leaves; water less for small, waxy leaves;
Water more during the vigorous growth period, less after entering dormancy:
Water more when the seedling is large and the pot is small; water less when the seedling is small and the pot is large;
Water more on balconies, less in courtyards; water more in summer, less in winter; water more when clear and dry; water less on cloudy days;
Water more during bud formation, less during flowering.
(4) Rescue of drought dehydration and waterlogged root rot
When woody plants suffer long-term drought and dehydration, the stems and leaves wilt, but the trunk still has life. In that case, first move them to a shaded place to reduce water evaporation from the plant body. Spray water to maintain the humidity of the aboveground environment. After watering the roots, do not continuously replenish water, to prevent root hypoxia. According to the principle of alternately dry and wet, keep the soil aerated to promote new root growth and restore vitality. For severely dehydrated plants, according to the growth state of the aboveground part, carry out proper pruning to facilitate new sprouting and leafing.
When pot soil has accumulated water after long rain and the plant suffers waterlogging damage, with branches and leaves wilting and losing vigor, the plant must immediately be removed from the pot with its soil and placed in a cool, ventilated place to let the root soil moisture dissipate. After 3-5 days, when growth resumes, put it back into the pot. During continuous rainy weather, outdoor potted plants can have their pots laid on their sides to avoid water accumulation. After long rain, if it suddenly clears up with strong sunlight, exposing the plants to the sun will, because the root growth has been damaged and the branches and leaves transpire too strongly, cause severe water loss and death. Therefore, attention should be paid to strictly controlling water, moving positions, and providing shade for recovery.
(5) Different watering methods
When watering potted flowers, in most cases overhead pouring should be avoided. For gloxinia, African violet and others, once the flowers and leaves are drenched with water, it will cause rot of the flowers and leaves. For bromeliads, however, overhead watering is required so that water can be stored in the leaf cups to meet growth needs. For flowers such as orchids and maranta, besides proper watering, misting is required to increase the air humidity of the growing environment.
For indoor foliage plants, depending on differences in the growth characteristics of their places of origin, water requirements also differ greatly. Monstera, Philodendron, calla lily and other Araceae plants, ferns, and umbrellasedge belong to moisture-loving flowers, and watering should follow "rather wet than dry", but water should not accumulate. Snake plant, aloe, sedum and other succulents, as well as cacti, are drought-loving flowers, and watering should follow "rather dry than wet" to prevent root rot from excessive water. Other plants such as asparagus fern, sago palm and begonia, which are most plants, belong to the mesophytic type, and both overly dry and overly wet soil have adverse effects, so watering can follow the principle of "alternately dry and wet".
4、
Protecting flowers. Home flower growing requires protecting flowers for safe summering and wintering and preventing and controlling pests and diseases.
(1) Summering and wintering
The suitable growth temperature for most flowers is 15-25°C. If the air temperature exceeds 40°C or falls below the minimum temperature that different flowers can tolerate, the flowers will be harmed.
① Safe summering
High summer temperatures and strong sunlight often make some temperate plants unable to adapt to the intense heat, and make some shade plants prone to sunburn. Therefore, home flower growing can use methods such as shading, ventilation, misting, and adjusting the placement of pot flowers to improve the environmental impact, lower the temperature, and help the flowers summer safely.
② Safe wintering
Frost damage and freezing damage in winter have a great impact on flower growth, and some cold-intolerant flowers will die from frost. In autumn, plants are still in the growth period, and some flowers suffer damage to both leaves and buds as soon as the first frost comes. In spring, after dormancy, plants begin to sprout and germinate, and if they are hit by a late frost at this time, the damage is also very serious. In the Suzhou area, the first frost period generally appears in early to mid-November, and the last frost period is from the end of March to early April. Therefore, during this period, in order to prevent frost damage and low-temperature freezing damage below 0°C, for flowers that are easily harmed, courtyard cultivation can be protected by covering with soil or film. Balcony potted flowers can be protected by building a plastic shed against the south wall. When there is severe cold in the evening, woven bags or burlap and other coverings should also be added on the top and around the shed for warmth. On balconies already enclosed with glass, cold-intolerant plants such as Milan, hibiscus, Christmas cactus, Impatiens holstii and croton should be moved indoors and covered with transparent plastic bags to protect them through the winter. To increase the cold resistance of flowers and trees in winter, management should restrict watering, but water still needs to be supplemented at the right time as conditions require. Due to negligence in management, home flower growing in winter often also results in death from drying out.
(2) Pest and disease control. For home flower growing, the control of pests and diseases should follow the principle of "prevention first". Strengthen management, improve the ventilation conditions of the growing environment, do a good job in fertilizer and water management and pruning, so that the flowers and trees grow vigorously and enhance their own resistance to pests and diseases, and promptly remove dead branches and fallen leaves to prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
① Pests
Pests have two types according to their feeding method.
Chewing pests:
They damage roots, stems, leaves, flowers and fruits, and the damaged parts show notches, holes and even cavities, etc. Such as cabbage worms, slug moths, longhorn beetles, and white grubs (scarab larvae), etc.
Use stomach poisons and contact-killing pesticides such as deltamethrin, trichlorfon, fenvalerate, phoxim, etc.
Sucking pests:
The pests pierce into the plant body with their mouthparts to suck sap. Such as aphids, scale insects and red spiders (mites), etc.
The damaged stems and leaves show symptoms such as spots, wrinkling and discoloration.
Use contact-type and systemic pesticides for control, such as dimethoate, propargite, etc.
② Diseases
There are mainly three types of pathogens causing plant diseases.
Fungal diseases:
Caused by fungal infection, mold-like or powdery substances can be seen growing on the host surface.
Symptoms include damping-off, seedling blight, spots, scab, mold rot, wilting, etc.
Main chemicals used include carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, etc.
Bacterial diseases:
Caused by bacteria, the leaves show water-soaked, semi-transparent lesions, and are limited by the leaf veins.
Tender organs become necrotic, appearing slimy and having a foul odor. For diseased stems showing wilting, a cross-section shows browning of the vascular bundles.
Main chemicals used include: jinggangmycin, agricultural streptomycin, etc.
5、
Pruning
Pruning and shaping flowers and trees can regulate growth, flowering and fruiting. Pruning can also improve ventilation and light conditions and promote robust growth of branches and leaves. Commonly used methods in home flower growing include pinching, branch pruning, bud removal and leaf removal.
(1) Pinching is often used on herbaceous flower seedlings. After the main stem of the herbaceous flower is removed, it helps promote the sprouting of lateral buds, increase branching, and achieve the goal of dwarfing the plant and having more branches and more flowers. It can also adjust the flowering period. It is often applied to chrysanthemums, salvia, petunias, marigolds, etc.
(2) Branch pruning. There are two ways of branch pruning. One is to remove branches from the base, called thinning. Thinning is the removal of overly dense branches and crossing branches, leggy branches, weak branches, diseased and pest-infested branches and dead branches, which helps the tree body ventilate and receive light and enhances the plant's growth vigor.
The other way is to shorten the branches, called heading back. Heading back can promote the sprouting of lateral buds on the branches, adjust growth vigor, and benefit flowering and fruiting. For roses, heading back the branches in winter, leaving about 20-30cm, can control the plant's growth height and make spring flowering abundant and uniform. Heading back the leggy branches of wintersweet can promote the sprouting of lateral branches and form the flowering branches for the next year. The growth habits of various flowers and trees differ; some branches form flower buds at the terminal buds, and some form flower buds at the lateral buds. Therefore, heading back should also adopt correspondingly different methods.
(3) Bud removal. During the growth period of flowers and trees, adventitious buds often appear. If allowed to grow, they will consume nutrients, disturb the tree shape, and affect ventilation and light transmission, so they need to be removed in the early stage of bud sprouting. For grafted rose seedlings, the sprouts on the rootstock portion are all wild roses and must all be removed.
(4) Leaf removal. For some foliage plants, such as spider plant, lucky bamboo, Aspidistra and calla lily, some old leaves should be removed in time to promote new leaves. After jasmine is brought outdoors in spring, removing old leaves can promote the growth of many new shoots and new leaves, with vigorous growth and many flower buds.
6、
Propagation
In home flower growing, propagating new plants and new seedlings yourself will add more pleasure to flower growing. Commonly used methods include seeding, cutting, division, layering and grafting.
(1) Seeding. Seeds must be collected after they are fully mature.
Dry and low-temperature storage conditions can extend seed life. For home storage, seeds can be packaged in plastic bags and stored in the refrigerator crisper.
Biennial herbaceous flowers that bloom in spring are sown in mid-to-late August. Annual flowers that bloom in autumn are sown from late March to early April in spring. After sowing, the soil covering thickness should be 2-3 times the height of the seed. Seed germination requires temperature, moisture and air. Generally 20-25°C is most suitable for germination. The sowing bed soil must not be compacted and must not accumulate water, so as to provide the oxygen needed for germination.
After emergence, once they have 2-4 leaves, they should be transplanted.
(2) Cutting
It uses the regeneration ability of plant organs such as roots, stems, leaves and buds after being separated from the parent plant to cultivate new plants.
The soil (substrate) used for cutting should be loose, aerated and harmless. For home propagation, materials such as rice husk ash, yellow sand, perlite and vermiculite can be used.
For woody plants propagated by stem cuttings, current-year fully grown branches should be selected, with a cutting length of 10-15cm, having 3-4
buds, and inserted 5-6cm into the soil. The cut at the lower end of the cutting should be at a node. Cuttings of dormant branches are carried out 10-15 days before sprouting. Green branch cuttings with leaves can be carried out at any time during the growth period after the new shoots have matured. However, the leaves on the aboveground part should be properly trimmed off to reduce transpiration and benefit rooting.
For herbaceous plant cuttings, tender stems with full tissue should be selected. Wax begonia, petunia, Impatiens holstii, Impatiens hawkeri, salvia and marigold all root easily.
Most succulents can be propagated by leaf cuttings.
For home cuttings, flower pots are used as cutting beds, with broken tile pieces placed at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage. Keep the soil moist at all times. The cutting pot should avoid direct sunlight. If misting can be done frequently to maintain a certain air humidity, it can be placed in the sun. Rose cuttings in summer can root in about 10 days.
(3) Division and bulb separation
Some perennial flowers and shrubs, such as daylily, iris, asparagus fern, broadleaf lady palm, umbrellasedge, wintersweet and peony, after growing for several years, have enlarged clumps. In early spring or autumn, the clumps can be dug up and divided into several individual plants. When dividing, each plant should retain as many roots as possible, and the area of the cut wounds should be reduced.
Bulbous flowers such as tulip, lily, narcissus, gladiolus and red woodsorrel can be propagated by separating small bulbs.
(4) Layering
For flowers and trees such as osmanthus, camellia and wintersweet, branches close to the ground can be bent and pressed into the soil without being separated from the parent plant, to promote rooting at the middle stem nodes of the buried branch portion. The layering period is usually March-April. The buried portion needs to be notched or ring-barked to facilitate new roots from the callus tissue at the wound site. In autumn, cut below the rooted portion to cultivate a new plant.
On the upper part of the flower or tree plant, select a branch about 0.5-1.0cm in diameter and perform ring-barking, with a ring width of 0.3-1.5cm. Then wrap the outside with a bamboo tube or plastic bag, filled with aerated, moisture-retaining material, to promote rooting at the ring-barked portion. This is called air layering. The suitable season for air layering is before the plum rain.
(5) Grafting (omitted). The key to successful grafting lies in: the nutritional status of the grafting materials, compatibility, the temperature and humidity environment after grafting, and grafting technique. Commonly used methods include two types: branch grafting and bud grafting.
Home floral art
1、
Flower arrangement. Flower arrangement uses fresh flowers as the main material and, through certain techniques, creates a living work of art, making the home environment more pleasing to the eye and full of vitality. For the flower configuration in flower arrangement, the following main points should generally be mastered.
(1) Staggered heights and depths The positions of the flower stems should be arranged with front-back and high-low variation; never place them in the same straight line or on the same plane.
(2) Well-balanced density and sparseness The flower stems or leaves should not be arranged at equal distances from one another; there should be both sparse and dense spacing.
(3) Combining the substantial and the insubstantial Flowers are substantial, leaves are insubstantial; have both flowers and leaves, with flowers as the main subject and leaves as the accompaniment. Small flowers such as baby's breath (Gypsophila) can also be used as an accompaniment to give the whole composition a soft, hazy feel.
(4) Mutual response from above and below, left and right The flower stems on all sides should echo one another around the main stem, so that the arrangement maintains overall unity and balance.
(5) Light above, heavy below When combining flower stems, buds go on top and fully open flowers below; light-colored flowers go on top and dark-colored flowers below; small flowers with graceful form go on top, and large or spherical flowers go below. This makes the composition balanced and natural.
(6) Scattered above, gathered below In a combination of multiple flower stems, the upper flowers may be spread out while the lower flowers should be clustered together.
European-style flower arranging forms lavish geometric patterns, with brilliant and vivid colors, expressing the beauty of artificial art and pattern design. Oriental-style flower arranging often favors stems that are elegant and plain, revering nature, being simple and refined, and rich in profound meaning.
2、
Bonsai
Bonsai uses tree stumps, rocks and stones as raw materials, and through artistic processing and careful cultivation, recreates the spirit and appearance of nature in a pot. It is often called "silent poetry, three-dimensional painting." (1) Tree-stump bonsai The shaping of tree stumps should display ruggedness and antique simplicity, and the techniques to master are:
The lower part must show exposed claws -- expose the roots below the tree above the surface.
The middle must be wrinkled -- make the trunk crooked; avoid a straight, rigid look. The bark should have cracks or wrinkles.
The top must form clouds -- the canopy of flowers and leaves should be lush like clouds.
When two plants are grown together in one pot, it is best to have one large and one small, like an old person carrying a child; the old tree is affectionate and kindly, the young tree graceful and charming, like people standing together and looking at one another. With three or more plants, the greatest taboo is for roots and tops to be all even and neat, shaped like a bundled faggot; they must yield to one another left and right and interweave naturally.
(2) Landscape bonsai With rocks and stones as the main subject, it expresses the far-reaching mood of natural mountains and waters. The capacity of the bonsai should embody "one peak suggests Mount Taihua's thousand fathoms, one spoon suggests rivers and lakes ten thousand li." Its value lies in showing the great within the small and captivating the viewer. Landscape bonsai should apply the principles of perspective, with near things large and far things small, near things solid and far things insubstantial, to make the scenery magnificent and deep. According to the principle of seeing the far within the near, there are three types of landscape bonsai layout:
① High distance -- looking up at the mountain from below the mountain is called high distance.
The rocks and stones should occupy about 6/10 of the pot surface. The ratio of the main peak's height to the pot rim's height is 20-25:1. Often a single rock is used as the main subject, or a low supplementary scene is placed slightly near the main body to set off the main scene.
② Deep distance -- peering at the rocks and stones from in front of the mountain is called deep distance.
The rocks and stones generally occupy about 5/10 of the pot surface. The ratio of the main peak's height to the pot rim's height is 15:1. The mountain group is arranged in a zigzag ("zigzag"-shaped) longitudinal row, jagged and interlocking, solid in front and insubstantial behind, layer upon layer. The mountain peaks seem partly exposed and partly hidden, now visible and now concealed, making the scene deep and far.
③ Level distance -- gazing into the distance from a nearby mountain is called level distance.
In a level-distance layout, the whole scene is mostly water, with mountains as low ridges and small mounds; the mountain forms are gentle with few ravines, and their arrangement is scattered and winding.
The rocks occupy about 3/10 of the pot surface. The ratio of the main peak's height to the pot's height is 6:1. In landscape bonsai, blank space must be handled well; blank space represents the water surface, so that water winds around the mountains and the mountains are enlivened by the water; mountains are solid and water is insubstantial: they complement each other. Generally, to show a broad water surface, the blank space may occupy more than 2/3. To show mountains as the main subject, the blank space may occupy 1/3. Landscape bonsai can be accented with figures, birds and beasts, towers, pavilions, pagodas, bridges, boats and sails. But attention must be paid to proportion, and to reasonable harmony and unity with the scenery. The scenery can be arranged according to the scale of "mountain by the zhang, tree by the chi, horse by the cun, person by the fen."
3. Hydroponic flowers
Hydroponic flowers are ornamental plants grown in nutrient solution without a growing medium. It is currently a very novel way of growing flowers at home; its greatest advantages are that it is clean and hygienic, has few pests and diseases, is easy to care for, and also allows you to observe the growth of the plant's root system.
The flowers suitable for hydroponics are quite wide-ranging, including aquatic plants, wetland plants, mesophytes and a number of plants that are less drought-tolerant. For home hydroponics, species with moderate plant shape and beautiful flowers and leaves should be chosen, so they can be placed on a desk or table. Commonly used ones include: water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes), spatterdock (Nuphar), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), arrowhead vine (Syngonium), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), philodendron (Philodendron), inch plant (Tradescantia zebrina), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), ivy (Hedera helix), narcissus (Narcissus), hyacinth (Hyacinthus), amaryllis (Hippeastrum), tulip (Tulipa), nasturtium (Tropaeolum), arrowroot (Maranta), red-back (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), aucuba (Aucuba japonica), bromeliads and so on.
Hydroponic containers can use various kinds of transparent glassware; for simple home growing, mineral water bottles can also be used. Placing some colored glass beads in the container can both secure the root system and add color to the growing vessel.
A simple general formula for hydroponic nutrient solution: per 1000 g of water, add 0.74 g calcium nitrate, 0.48 g potassium nitrate, 0.12 g monopotassium phosphate, and 0.37 g magnesium sulfate. At home, a 0.1-0.2% solution of urea and monopotassium phosphate can also be used. Bulbous flowers and foliage plants for short-term water growing can also be grown in clean water when chemical raw materials are not easy to purchase.
The water used for water growing needs to be changed frequently, which can reduce water spoilage and increase the oxygen in the water. When growing in a bottle, the water level should not be too high; it is best to let part of the base of the roots be exposed to the air, to facilitate oxygen uptake.
4. Bottle planting
Use glass bottles, goldfish bowls and other glass vessels to grow flowers, making a "bottle scene" or "glass garden."
Plants relatively suitable for bottle planting commonly include ferns, spider plant, inch plant, begonia, cordyline, small-leaved ivy, Acorus gramineus, cactus-type plants and succulents, etc. When planting, several compatible plants are often used to configure the bottle scene; the bottle top may be sealed or covered. At the bottom of the bottle, first spread charcoal crumbs, sand and gravel, peat, perlite, sphagnum moss, etc. as the medium, then plant the flowers; outside the glass bottle you can watch a garden scene grow, with lingering charm and a style all its own.
5. Combination pot planting
Combination pot planting uses multiple ornamental plants, applying artistic arrangement techniques, planted together in one container to form the collective beauty of flowers. Generally, one container can hold a combination planting of 3-5 kinds of plants. When combining, note the following. (1) The plants combined should have similar traits. For example, shade-tolerant or sun-loving, moisture-tolerant or not moisture-tolerant should each be combined separately, to make management easier.
(2) Flower shape and flower color should match leaf shape and leaf color. This lets the combined group create a sense of beauty in color, form, posture and charm.
(3) The container should be in harmony with the grouped plants. The container's texture, size, color and shape all affect the style of the pot planting.
(4) In pot combination planting, the main plant must first be determined. Generally the main-feature plant should be placed in the center, or at the 2/3 point of a long pot, and then some accompanying plants configured; gaps may also be left and filled with pebbles or shells as accents. At the container's edge, trailing plants can also be planted to hang down and conceal the rim.
(5) Depending on the condition of the container, different methods may be used for the combined plants: removing them from their pots or planting them in their original pots.
Common mistakes in growing flowers
Mistake one: watering too much
In summer, giving flowers more to "drink" is not always better. You can water once every morning, and in the evening appropriately supplement based on how dry the pot soil is; try not to water during the day. When watering, water thoroughly, judging by water flowing out from the bottom of the pot. For some flowers with fleshy roots, such as clivia, the amount of water must be controlled; if the flower "drinks" too much, it is very easy to cause root rot. Such flowers also cannot withstand strong sun exposure; you can spray a little water on the leaves when it is relatively dry at noon. For some more drought-tolerant flowers, such as cacti and succulents of the Crassulaceae, water less; too much water easily causes root rot.
Mistake two: putting them indoors
The summer sun is strong, so people simply move the flowers indoors. But they will grow poorly due to lack of sunlight. Sun-loving flowers are not afraid of strong sunlight, but they still need appropriate shading at noon. If they are neutral, they need appropriate shading. If they are balcony pot flowers, they can be moved indoors from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. each day. If they are shade-loving, contact with strong light must be absolutely prevented.
Mistake three: fertilizing too much
If too much fertilizer is applied, the flowers cannot absorb it and it instead damages the root system. Of course, flowers that generally bloom in summer are relatively heat-tolerant, and a moderate amount of extra fertilizer can be applied, such as crape myrtle, jasmine, impatiens, cockscomb, dahlia, etc.; fertilizer can be applied during the flowering period to make them lush with branches and leaves. For some ornamental-fruit flowers such as kumquat and ornamental pepper, applying phosphorus fertilizer after the flowers fade can make them bear more fruit. For tropical foliage plants such as rubber tree and Monstera deliciosa, nitrogen fertilizer should be applied to make the leaves greener. Apply thin fertilizer frequently; too high a concentration easily causes fertilizer burn.
Common toxic ornamental flowers:
Oleander: It blooms in spring, summer and autumn each year. It is a flower that can be both ornamental and medicinal, but can also poison people. Its stems, leaves and even flowers are toxic; if its scent is smelled for too long, it can make a person drowsy and reduce mental acuity. The milky white sap it secretes can cause poisoning if swallowed by mistake.
Poinsettia: The whole plant is toxic, especially the white sap in the stems and leaves, which can irritate the skin, causing redness and swelling and allergic reactions. If the stems or leaves are eaten by mistake, there is a risk of poisoning and death.
Narcissus: Growing it at home is generally no problem, but do not break its bulb, because it contains lycorine toxin, and eating it by mistake can cause vomiting and enteritis; the sap of the leaves and flowers can cause skin redness and swelling, and special care should be taken not to get this sap into the eyes.
Corn poppy: The whole plant is toxic, containing toxic alkaloids; the fruit is especially the most toxic. If eaten by mistake, it can cause poisoning of the central nervous system, and in severe cases may even endanger life.
Calla lily: The flower is toxic, containing large amounts of calcium oxalate crystals and alkaloids, etc.; eating it by mistake can cause symptoms such as coma.
Lantana: Both flowers and leaves are toxic; eating them by mistake can cause symptoms such as diarrhea and fever.
Datura: Also known as belladonna flower, common in rural areas south of the Yangtze River; children who eat it by mistake will be poisoned.
Night-blooming cestrum: At night, after stopping photosynthesis, it releases a large amount of waste gas. This waste gas smells very fragrant, but it is harmful to human health. If it is kept indoors for a long time, it can cause dizziness, coughing, and even asthma and insomnia. Therefore, put night-blooming cestrum indoors during the day, and move it outdoors in the evening.
Tulip: The flower contains toxic alkaloids. If people and animals stay in a cluster of these flowers for 2 hours to 3 hours, they will feel dizzy and develop poisoning symptoms; in severe cases it can also cause hair loss. It is not suitable for growing at home.
Lycoris: It contains lycoris alkaloids; the whole plant is toxic. If eaten by mistake, it causes vomiting and diarrhea; in severe cases it can also cause speech impairment and bleeding from the mouth and nose.
Rhododendron: The plants and flowers of yellow rhododendrons both contain toxins, and eating them by mistake causes poisoning; the flowers of white rhododendrons contain tetracyclic diterpenoid toxins, and after poisoning people will experience vomiting, difficulty breathing, numbness of the limbs, etc.; in severe cases it can cause shock, seriously endangering human health.
Bauhinia: If people come into contact with the pollen it releases for too long, it can induce asthma or worsen coughing symptoms.
Delphinium: Also known as radish flower; the whole plant is toxic, and the seeds are even more toxic, mainly containing terpenoid alkaloids. If eaten by mistake, it causes poisoning of the nervous system; in severe cases, spasms and respiratory failure occur, leading to death.
Nandina: Graceful and slender, yet the whole plant is toxic, mainly containing nandina alkaloids and nandina glycosides, etc.; after eating it by mistake, it easily causes symptoms such as whole-body twitching, spasms and coma.
Mimosa: It contains mimosine. This toxin, with too much contact, can cause sparse eyebrows and hair turning yellow or even falling out. Therefore, do not fiddle with it too much with your fingers.
Dieffenbachia: The leaves contain oxalic acid and asparagine; after eating by mistake, it causes pain in the mouth, throat, esophagus and stomach, and in severe cases damages the vocal cords, making a person mute.
Wisteria: Its seeds, stems and bark are all toxic; the seeds contain cytisine. After eating by mistake, it causes vomiting and diarrhea; in severe cases it can also cause bleeding from the mouth and nose, cold hands and feet, and even shock and death.
Chinese rose: The rich fragrance it gives off can make some people suddenly feel chest tightness and discomfort, and difficulty breathing, after smelling it.
Lily: If its fragrance is smelled for too long, it can overexcite the human central nervous system and cause insomnia.
Cactus-type plants: The spines contain toxic sap; after a person is pricked, it causes allergic symptoms such as skin redness, swelling, pain and itching, making the whole body uncomfortable and the mind uneasy.
Pines and cypresses: The fragrant scent released by such flowers and trees has an irritating effect on the human stomach and intestines. If smelled for too long, it not only affects a person's appetite, but also makes pregnant women feel upset, nauseous and dizzy.
Orchid: If the fragrance it releases is smelled for too long, it can make a person overly excited and cause insomnia.
Hydrangea: If the fine particles it releases come into contact with people, they can cause itching of the skin in some people.
Crown of thorns, impatiens, iris, snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata), Excoecaria cochinchinensis, croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Euphorbia antiquorum and Euphorbia neriifolia, and other beautiful flowers and ornamental plants. The cancer-promoting effects of these plants have been confirmed in research on nasopharyngeal carcinoma and esophageal cancer.
Some plants have overly strong floral fragrance, such as night-blooming cestrum and lantana; being surrounded by this smell for a long time is unbearable. Even for famous fragrant flowers such as narcissus and rose, they also feel fragrant and pleasant at first, but after a long time, especially while sleeping, breathing in these scents becomes unbearable...
There are also some plants such as poinsettia, poppy, oleander and Zhuangyuan red, etc., that release toxic odors; frequent contact is even more harmful to the human body. Even some flowers and plants that have medicinal effects on people, when kept day and night with healthy people and in close contact, are also harmful to health.
Dieffenbachia (Dumb Cane): Botanists have determined that it contains some toxic enzymes (commonly known as dumb cane enzyme). Its stem and leaf sap, when it touches the skin, is strongly irritating. If an infant bites it by mistake, it will cause throat edema due to strong irritation of the oral mucosa, and may even paralyze the vocal cords and cause loss of voice. Therefore, people popularly call dieffenbachia "dumb cane," and there is a saying, "the flower is pretty, but the poison is hard to bear." (Reposted from Diyin, Qianchang, Qingwu)