Rose cuttings are not difficult; mastering these key points is essential

The stems of the Chinese rose bear thorns, making it quite similar to the rose. Common Chinese rose colors are pink, carmine, and scarlet, and there are also many types of petals. It is popular because it is relatively easy to grow and propagate, and this season is about the time when Chinese roses are in full bloom. The usual and commonly used method for propagating Chinese roses is cuttings. Although it is simple, there are still some key points that we cannot fail to pay attention to.

For Chinese rose cuttings, nothing is more important than the soil used for cuttings. The choice of soil determines the future development of the Chinese rose; if the right soil is chosen, it is basically half the battle won. The soil selected should not be too dry or too wet, should not be too loose, and even less should it be hard-packed. Hard-packed soil will hinder the growth of the Chinese rose's root system and may even cause the death of the cuttings.

After inserting the cutting into suitable soil, the required temperature must also be maintained. Because it has just been inserted into the soil and has no root base, it needs special care. Put it in the sun regularly every day to sun it a little, but it must not be exposed to blazing sun. The temperature should preferably be maintained at around 22 degrees C.

In addition to these, timely watering of the newly inserted Chinese rose cuttings is also necessary. Too much watering will make the soil for growing the Chinese rose too thin and may even cause the branches and stems of the Chinese rose to rot. Too little watering will cause the branches and stems of the Chinese rose to lack water, which is not conducive to root growth. It is best to water once every one or two days, and when watering, do not let the water overflow the flowerpot; keeping the soil slightly moist is enough.

Under careful care, generally after about ten days, the inserted Chinese rose cuttings have basically sprouted new tender shoots. At this time, the root system of the Chinese rose is also slowly growing out. It is necessary to ensure that the sprouted tender shoots and the Chinese rose stems used for cuttings are not damaged by animals or people, otherwise all previous efforts will be wasted.

The best cutting time and techniques for Chinese roses

Flower and Bonsai Network introduction: what the editor of Flower and Bonsai Network is sharing with you today is aboutChinese rosethe best cutting time and techniques; let's take a look together.

Suitable cutting time:

When different branches are used for Chinese rose cuttings, the cutting time is different:

Softwood cutting method: every year from April to September, and from September to October. At this time, Chinese rose branches have strong vitality and vigorous growth, and the temperature is suitable. Tender branches of the Chinese rose can be selected for cuttings.

Hardwood cutting method: cuttings can be taken from the dormant period of the Chinese rose until it sprouts in spring, and the temperature must be well controlled during cutting.

Bud cutting: the most suitable season for bud cutting is spring, when new buds have just sprouted.

Unsuitable cutting time:

Chinese rose cuttings should avoid the high-temperature period in summer. At this time, it is very difficult for buds to emerge, and the hot and humid weather easily leads to the breeding of bacteria, so the cutting success rate is not high.

Key points for cuttings:

The cuttings should retain three to five small leaves as much as possible, which is beneficial for rooting. After cutting, pay attention to moisture retention.

Key technical points for the cultivation and management of Chinese roses

   I. Varieties and habits of Chinese roses

   1. Varieties of Chinese roses

   The classification of Chinese roses is very complex and has been disputed for many years. They can roughly be divided into the following types:

   (1) Hybrid tea roses

   This type has the highest ornamental value and is found all over the world. The leaves are dark green and mostly glossy, and the flower buds are long. The flowers are large and full.

   (2) Floribunda roses

   The flower colors are rich, but the flower diameter is slightly smaller, and the flowers open in clusters and concentratedly. Whenever the flowering season comes, the profusion of flowers and riot of colors can fully display the beauty of the group. In addition, there are also grandiflora roses, miniature roses, climbing roses, and other varieties.

   2. Ecological habits of Chinese roses

   The Chinese rose is a deciduous plant native to temperate zones and has a certain degree of cold resistance. In most areas of northern China, when planted it needs to be covered with soil to protect it through winter, while in other areas it can overwinter naturally in the open ground. It likes sunlight and has no strict requirements for day length, so it can bloom continuously. In the midsummer season it mostly stops growing and blooms less. In winter, if it enters a high-temperature greenhouse, it remains evergreen and continues to bloom, but this is unfavorable for the next year's growth. It has no strict requirements for soil, likes neutral and well-drained loam and clay loam, can tolerate weak alkalinity, and grows poorly in sandy soil and acidic soil. It is highly tolerant of fertilizer and requires frequent fertilizer supplementation to bloom continuously.

   II. Cultivation methods for Chinese roses

   The cultivation of Chinese roses is mainly nutritional cultivation, and can use cuttings, grafting, division, layering, etc., with cuttings and grafting being the most used.

   1. Cutting cultivation

   For the cutting cultivation of Chinese roses, first make preparations for the cutting hotbed. Fermenting materials such as horse manure or leaves should be placed in the hotbed, watered, and pressed firmly, all of which will produce a certain amount of heat. Cut semi-lignified branches about 10 cm long from the mother Chinese rose plant after the flowers have faded. Generally, a branch has three bud eyes. All the lower leaves of the cutting must be cut off, leaving only the two top leaves for photosynthesis. Too many leaves must not be left, as they consume nutrients in the stem and evaporate a large amount of water. The base of the cutting should be cut into a "horseshoe" slant shape, placed in a clean water basin to prevent air-drying, and inserted promptly. The most suitable temperature for Chinese rose rooting is 20--25 degrees C, and rooting generally begins only above 8 degrees C. If the winter ground temperature is below 8 degrees C, it is very difficult to root after cutting. When the spring temperature rises again, in addition to paying attention to spraying the bed surface, the moisture of the bed must not be ignored; otherwise, due to lack of water, the cuttings will wither, and even small seedlings that have already rooted will dry to death. The method for checking the substrate is to insert a hand into the soil to a depth of 8--10 cm, take out a little, and if it forms a ball when squeezed in the hand, it indicates the moisture is suitable; if it does not form a ball, it indicates the soil lacks water.

   First use a wooden stick to make a hole, then insert the cutting into the sand hole and press it firm with the hand. The insertion depth is 1/3 of the cutting, and the spacing should be such that the leaves do not overlap. After inserting, water promptly with a fine watering can, watering thoroughly, then firm the bed sand and cover it with plastic film, shading it for 1 week, and spraying the leaves 1--2 times per day. After about 1 week the wound begins to heal, and after about one month roots can form and it can be transplanted. When transplanting, the roots should be coated with mud slurry, digging while planting. Mixing 1%--2% copper sulfate and about 0.50% urea into the mud slurry can both prevent root rot and promote seedling growth and survival. Before potting, place broken tile pieces over the drainage hole of the flowerpot, add mixed soil, then plant the seedling with soil into the pot, adding soil layer by layer and pressing firm, and after planting water thoroughly once. Place it under a shade shed for 7--10 days, then move it to a ventilated and sunny place. After potting, water thoroughly once a day.

   2. Grafting cultivation

   Grafting is the main means of cultivating Chinese roses. When grafting, the choice of rootstock is very important. The cuttings should have an abundant source, root easily, be able to adapt to the local climatic conditions, and have good affinity with the scion. At present, the rootstock commonly used in China is rose (Rosa multiflora). Dormant-period grafting often uses whip grafting, before the leaf buds sprout in spring. Growing-period grafting often uses bud grafting.

   III. Cultivation and management of Chinese roses

   The cultivation of Chinese roses is divided into protected cultivation and open-field cultivation.

   1. Protected cultivation (pot cultivation)

   The Chinese rose is a light-loving plant, but too strong light is unfavorable for flower bud development. However, when grown in places with insufficient sunlight, the branches are slender. It takes about 45 days from budding to flowering. The optimum temperature for growth is 15--25 degrees C; within this temperature range the flowers are large and beautiful, while at 30 degrees C growth slows, and above 30 degrees C the flowers become smaller and the flower color fades. When potting 2--3-year-old seedlings, the roots should be trimmed, cutting the old roots short to promote new roots, but root trimming should not be too heavy. When planting, pay attention to spreading the root system and keeping the plant upright, and the pot soil should not be filled to the brim. Potting is generally carried out during the dormant period. Chinese roses grow vigorously and need much fertilizer, so repot once every year or every other year. Repotting is carried out during the dormant period, and after repotting water thoroughly twice. In spring, summer, and autumn, they should be placed in a site with sufficient sunlight, good ventilation, and no water accumulation.

   After Qingming, this is a careful pruning when the Chinese roses come out of the cellar. Select and keep the robust branches of the Chinese roses, and cut off the other horizontal branches, weak branches, crossing branches, and overly dense branches. The selected and retained branches should retain 3--5 bud eyes from the base, and all branches above that should be cut off, so that the plant absorbs a large amount of nutrients from the soil and supplies the long-term growth needs of the leaf buds and flower buds on the branches left after pruning. Remember not to prune after the buds have sprouted; late pruning affects the first flowering. The growth height is required to be consistent. Each plant can retain 3--5 main branches, at most 7 branches.

   For potted Chinese roses, do not water when not dry; when watering, water thoroughly. In summer the weather is hot and evaporation is high, so potted plants should be watered more, especially the watering in the evening should be sufficient. When the temperature exceeds 30 degrees C, Chinese roses grow poorly and bloom little. Some people think it is due to insufficient fertility and apply more topdressing, which instead ruins things. In the midsummer season, generally no topdressing is applied; only for robustly growing branches and plants, apply thin fertilizer frequently, 1--2 times per week. If possible, provide appropriate shading after 11 a.m. and let them sun again after 4 p.m., avoiding the hot midday temperature while allowing them to endure the weaker sunlight before noon and after noon, which is beneficial for photosynthesis and accumulates nutrients for the next flush of flowers. Fertilizer can be applied after pruning, with 50% human excrement and urine mixed with 2% superphosphate. In mid-February, apply topdressing with 3% human excrement and urine or 1% urea, or apply urea before or after rain. Do not fertilize when new shoots are red; fertilizing at this time causes damage to young roots, making the plant wilt or stop growing, so special attention must be paid.

   Chinese roses also need mid-term pruning, mainly to cut off the sprouting shoots from the rootstock of grafted seedlings, to cut off residual flowers with leaves after flowering, and to thin out excess flower buds. After the first flush of flowers, cut off the slender and weak flowering branches from the base, while for the remaining thick and strong flowering branches, cut them off from 2--3 leaves below the residual flower. For the second flush of flowers, the method of thinning weak branches, retaining strong branches, and keeping strong buds can still be used for pruning.

   Chinese roses also need one pruning before overwintering, but not too early. When pruning Chinese roses, not only should strong branches be selected and retained, but attention should also be paid to even distribution of main and secondary branches. Large-flowered varieties should retain 4--6 strong branches, and on each branch select one side-growing strong bud at 30--40 cm and cut off the middle and upper branches. For trailing and climbing varieties, remove old branches, weak branches, and diseased and pest-damaged branches to train the main trunk.

   2. Open-field cultivation

   Chinese roses planted in the open field have well-developed root systems, grow rapidly, are robust, and have slightly larger flowers with high ornamental value. During management, cultivation measures should be selected according to different types, growth habits, and geographical conditions. Choose a cultivation site with higher terrain, sufficient sunlight, air circulation, and slightly acidic soil. When planting, deeply plow the land and apply organic fertilizer as base fertilizer. The planting density for upright varieties is 75 cm x 75 cm, for spreading varieties the plant and row spacing is 100 cm x 100 cm, for vertical-growing varieties the plant and row spacing is 40 cm x 50 cm, and for climbing varieties the plant and row spacing is 200 cm x 200 cm.

   IV. Pest and disease control of Chinese roses

   1. Chemical control

   (1) Powdery mildew

   A fungal disease that harms flowers in environments with high temperature, poor ventilation, and relatively high humidity. A powdery white phenomenon appears on young leaves, called powdery mildew. A 600-fold dilution of triadimefon or a 400-fold dilution of zineb can be used.

   (2) Black spot

   Caused by fungi, it overwinters in the soil on diseased residual branches or fallen leaves as mycelium or acervuli. In the following spring it absorbs water and produces conidia, which are mainly spread by wind and rain. Rainy, foggy, and dewy weather is conducive to spore germination, so the disease occurs easily. When water droplets remain on the leaves, the spores can germinate and invade after 6 hours in them. Under conditions of high air humidity in the rainy season, it is conducive to the breeding of the pathogen and the epidemic of the disease. A 0.10--0.20 degree Baume lime sulfur mixture, or a 50% carbendazim wettable powder 500--1000-fold solution can be sprayed on the leaf surface.

   2. Integrated control

   Eliminate the pathogen early. In early spring in the first ten days of April, after the Chinese roses come out of the cellar and before the tree vigor becomes active, first carry out one pruning. Before sprouting, spray the Chinese roses comprehensively and carefully (including the plant, pot soil, and the site around the pot) with a 0.50--1 degree Baume lime sulfur mixture.

   Spray the plants regularly for prevention and control. A 75% wettable chlorothalonil 500-fold solution and an 18% copper fungicide 150-fold solution can be sprayed once every 10 days. If it rains after spraying, spray again promptly after the rain. The spraying time is from June to September, spraying frequently to control the occurrence of black spot.

                                  ( Source: "Agricultural Science and Technology and Information", 2003 Issue 8 )