Amaryllis growing methods and precautions to make the flowers bloom more luxuriantly
Amaryllis is very attractive when in bloom, and many people like to place a pot of it at home, but how exactly should amaryllis be grown so that it blooms more luxuriantly? Today I will share my own experience of growing amaryllis with everyone.
Every kind of flower has requirements for its growing environment. For growing amaryllis, the first thing is to choose suitable soil. If there is no soil nearby, you can go to a place that sells flowers to buy some; a bag of about 10 jin costs only around 3 yuan. This kind of soil is loose and soft, not as hard as loess, and is very helpful for root growth. Soil that is too hard will affect root growth and may even cause root rot.
Then find a suitable flower pot. It is better to choose a relatively deeper pot, because amaryllis roots are very long. If the pot is too shallow, it will affect the development of the amaryllis roots. A pot with a hole at the bottom is more suitable.
After preparing the pot and soil, you can begin planting. Put more than half of the soil into the pot, then place the prepared amaryllis in the middle of the pot, and do not plant it crooked. Then fill the top with soil, and afterward press down hard with your hands a few times, so it becomes firm. If you do not press it a few times, it will easily fall over when you water, and then you have to stand it up again and get a lot of mud on your hands, which is very troublesome.
After planting, begin watering. Because the soil in the pot is dry soil, you must water thoroughly, otherwise the roots cannot absorb water and cannot survive. The flower will become wilted and it is very hard for it to recover to normal. After watering, leave it on the ground for a few minutes to let the water seep through, then you can move it indoors, because the indoor temperature is relatively stable. After just planting, it should be kept indoors for half a month, and by then it will have roughly adjusted.
It should be placed in a ventilated spot facing the sun. When amaryllis is growing flower buds, it easily attracts small white flying insects, and at this time you must remember to spray insecticide. Otherwise the flower buds may drop. After spraying the pesticide, do not expose it to strong sun, otherwise the effect of the pesticide will be affected.
Duiduihong growing methods and precautions, Duiduihong growing methods
Duiduihong, whose scientific name is amaryllis, is a plant with very high ornamental value. Duiduihong has many varieties, one of which is called Amigo, considered the best variety for pot cultivation. Nowadays many people like to choose Duiduihong as a potted plant, so if you want to get one, it is very necessary for you to understand how to grow Duiduihong and the precautions.
Duiduihong growing methods and precautions
1. Light
Duiduihong is a sun-loving plant. You can place it outdoors and let it receive direct sunlight appropriately, but not for too long. Usually placing it in a bright place with good light and good ventilation can keep it healthy. Absolutely avoid placing Duiduihong under strong light exposure.
2. Temperature
Duiduihong is not cold-tolerant and likes warmth. Spring and autumn temperatures are suitable, and attention should be paid to summer and winter. In summer, it is best to keep it between 17-22°C, and in winter it should not be lower than 5°C. Duiduihong is a plant that goes dormant in winter, and the dormant period is about 60 days. If cared for well during this time, it can bloom the following year. If you love beautiful flowers, you definitely should not miss it.
3. Soil
The soil for growing Duiduihong needs to be fertile and loose, and must not hold standing water. I suggest everyone loosen the soil regularly to keep the soil aerated.
4. Watering amount
The watering amount should be appropriate, keeping the Duiduihong plant moist, but absolutely avoid standing water, as standing water can easily cause Duiduihong to die.
5. Fertilizing
Duiduihong has relatively high fertilizer requirements. When the leaves are found to be about 5 cm long, it should be fertilized about once every half month, and after flowering reduce it to about once every 20 days.
6. Pest and disease prevention
Duiduihong has many insect pests. Generally, pest control should be carried out once a month so that Duiduihong can bloom early and grow luxuriantly.
7. Other precautions
After each bloom of Duiduihong, be careful to cut off the flower stalk from the faded flowers, to avoid seed production affecting flowering; repot once every two or three years; during the dormant period of Duiduihong, be careful to reduce watering and reduce fertilizing, letting it overwinter in dormancy.
Duiduihong growing methods
Alright, after introducing so much, everyone should have a preliminary understanding of how to grow Duiduihong. There are many details that I may not have covered, because everyone may encounter different problems when growing Duiduihong, and these can only be figured out slowly by everyone.
How to grow lilies: teaching you the growing methods and precautions for potted lilies
Like all living things, for lilies to grow vigorously and ultimately produce beautiful flowers, the most fundamental conditions are: the bulbs themselves must be of good quality, the environment must be suitable, management must keep up, and from the start of planned planting until the final fading of the flowers, you must always care for them and manage them meticulously. In this way, you can certainly ensure that the lilies are as you wish, pleasing to the eye. As for whether they can make money, that still depends on whether the market cooperates, but flower lovers grow them for their own enjoyment, so that is not within the scope of this article.1. Successfully ordering high-quality bulbs is the foundation of successful planting. However, because bulbs are not industrial products but agricultural products, and are also imported products facing various national quality inspection requirements, various problems will always exist. No matter which company it is, domestic or foreign, if they pat their chest and guarantee that everyone's orders (supply, supply quality) have no problems at all, then they must be a liar. That being the case, one can only choose reliable suppliers to reduce the probability of problems with the bulbs.High-quality lily bulbs: firm, clean, with a good root system
A common problem with lily bulbs is Penicillium infection (as shown in the picture below). If the infection has not endangered the basal plate of the bulb, the problem is not serious.Freeze damage -- the bulb's sprout turns black (as shown in the picture below); in serious cases, it can only be discarded.2. Environment: The slogan everyone commonly sees is "even small grass has life." I remember a Dutch expert also said, "The water you can drink, it can drink too; the environment you can stay in, it can too." "Even small grass has life" expresses the true meaning. You must treat it like your own baby, touch it, perceive it, and then change its environment at any time, and only then can it repay you with beautiful flowers.
1) Soil:
Soil structure: Although lilies can grow in all kinds of soil, it is very important to ensure that the cultivation soil has a good structure and maintains good drainage throughout the entire growth stage. Poor soil structure and compaction often cause lily roots to grow weakly or even die due to lack of oxygen, or because of poor drainage, allowing Pythium to run rampant and cause lily root death, ultimately leading to poor growth or even death of the lilies.
The picture below shows the situation where heavy rain from a typhoon flooded the soil, causing root death from lack of oxygen. Of course, overly compacted soil also makes the situation more serious.Soil pH and salinity: Maintaining an appropriate soil pH is very important for the development of lily roots and correct nutrient absorption. If the pH is too low, it will lead to excessive absorption of mineral nutrients (such as iron, manganese, and aluminum), while if the pH is too high, it will lead to insufficient absorption of phosphorus, manganese, and iron. Everyone knows that insufficiency is bad, but not everyone necessarily knows that excess is just as bad as deficiency.
Lilies are also sensitive to salinity. Too high salinity will produce roots that are hard, brittle, and yellow or brown in color, reducing the roots' water absorption, affecting lily quality, and in serious cases even causing lily root death and lily plant death. Soil salinity is often affected by the fertilizers and water used.
The picture below was originally a very beautiful root system, but due to the use of undecomposed organic fertilizer, part or all of the roots died. It is truly a pity.Soil pathogens: Lilies often die because soil fungi harm the roots. Common fungi include Rhizoctonia, Pythium, and Phytophthora. Rhizoctonia only harms the plant while the sprout is still in the soil, and Pythium can be alleviated by improving soil drainage. Generally speaking, during the entire growth process, it is very necessary to use broad-spectrum fungicides several times, such as chlorothalonil.
The picture below shows the damage caused by Rhizoctonia and Phytophthora.From the above, it can be seen how crucial suitable cultivation soil is to successful cultivation. If the soil is bad, even if you spend a great deal of effort managing it, you can only end up in tears. Therefore, it is best to choose soil that has not previously been used to grow lilies for planting lilies. Of course, the ideal choice is peat (domestic peat is fine). To reduce management difficulty, using 80% peat and adding 20% perlite or pine bark medium is very wise. If considering base fertilizer, using controlled-release fertilizer with a controllable release rate is the most ideal. If you are very partial to organic fertilizer, be sure to use fully decomposed organic fertilizer.With such a good root system, why worry about not having beautiful lily flowers?
2) Temperature
Rooting-stage temperature: For 2-3 weeks after planting, maintaining an appropriately low temperature (10-12°C) to ensure that lilies can grow good stem roots is very critical. However, most of the time, we cannot guarantee such ideal weather. Therefore, professional growers use cold storage for rooting, and we can use the crisper compartment of a refrigerator. Wrapping lily bulbs in peat (peat not too wet; enough that it drips slightly when squeezed by hand) and placing them in the refrigerator's crisper compartment for rooting is a good idea. Although low temperature will prolong the growth period, I think everyone should not mind managing it for a few more days.The situation after rooting: in high-temperature seasons, root first, then plant.
Growth-stage temperature: Although the most ideal growing temperature for lilies is 15-25°C, we cannot control the temperature of nature. However, we should still avoid extreme conditions. Below 5°C, lilies are very prone to freeze damage, and above 35°C, the growth period will be greatly shortened and quality will decline accordingly. In summer with strong sunlight, we can lower the temperature by shading and strengthening ventilation. How pleasant it would be to have cool breezes under the shade of trees in summer.
3) Relative humidity: The suitable relative humidity for lilies needs to be between 70-80%, but this refers to production by professional growers in greenhouses. If you plant lilies in the yard or place them on the balcony, there is no need to consider this point. In greenhouses, poor growth is often caused by excessively high humidity, but I have not yet seen outdoor lilies grow poorly even because of continuous rainy weather (provided the soil drainage is good and fungicides are sprayed regularly to control Botrytis). Of course, slight effects will still occur. This is because ventilation in greenhouses is very unsatisfactory; people feel very stuffy when they go in, and plants feel the same way.
Here are a few pictures of lily leaf damage caused by excessively high greenhouse humidity.Because the humidity is too high, the water pressure inside the plant becomes too great, and ultimately the leaves are damaged by ruptured cell walls; in serious cases, even the flower buds are gone. This is a physiological disorder, not damage from pathogens, and spraying fungicides is useless. Using calcium fertilizer can increase the resistance of cell walls and can reduce the damage.Long periods of rainy weather make the plant's leaves very tender, and because the plant needs to expel excess water from its body, the leaf stomata remain open all the time. Being open for a long time ultimately causes the leaf stomata to lose their closing function (they originally open and close automatically according to climate conditions). After the rainy weather, the leaf stomata still remain open, transpiring and expelling water, ultimately causing the leaves to lose water, become papery, and even scorch.
4) Shading: Shading can control temperature, relative humidity, and light.
In summer, sunlight is usually very strong. For 2-3 weeks after planting (before bud emergence), 80% of the light can be blocked. After bud emergence, because Asiatic lilies and LA hybrid lilies are sensitive to light and lack of light can cause bud abortion, shading can be appropriately reduced, such as blocking 50% of the light. Oriental lilies are not sensitive to light, so 50-70% of the light can still be blocked.
The general steps for growing potted lilies at home:
1. Preparation stage:
1) Growing medium: I suggest choosing peat soil as the main medium for planting.
2) Fertilizer: It is recommended to mix 3 kg of 14-14-14 slow-release fertilizer and 0.5 kg of calcium nitrate per cubic meter of medium as base fertilizer.
3) Pots: A 13 cm pot can plant 3 bulbs of the 12-14 cm size; a 15 cm pot can plant 3 bulbs of the 12-14 cm or 14-16 cm size; in this way, choose the pot according to your own situation. It is best if the pot height is above 12 cm.
2. Receiving the lily bulbs: After long-distance logistics, when everyone receives the lily bulbs, they have thawed. Normally, there should be a small sprout. As long as the sprout is no longer than 5 cm and is not broken, then even a curved sprout is no problem at all. Please feel at ease and plant boldly.
After receiving the bulbs, they can be soaked for 30 minutes in a 600-800 times dilution of chlorothalonil.
3. Planting:
1) First mix the medium and base fertilizer evenly, and water until it drips when squeezed by hand.
2) Spread 2-3 cm of the mixed medium at the bottom of the pot.
3) Plant the bulbs in the pot with the sprouts facing outward.
4) Cover the bulbs with about 8 cm of medium.
5) Water thoroughly and place in a shaded area, avoiding sunlight as much as possible.
4. It is recommended to plant 1, 3, or 5 bulbs per pot. Odd numbers look better. If there are more than 5, then odd or even numbers no longer matter.
At temperatures in June-July, sprouts generally emerge in 7 days.
1. Medium: peat soil2. Fertilizer: controlled-release fertilizer, calcium nitrate3. Pot: 160 dual-color pot, plant 3 bulbs4. Planting
1) Correct planting method: the bulb sprouts face toward the pot wall.Incorrect planting method: the bulb sprouts face toward the middle. Consequence: the sprouts all concentrate in the middle, which does not look good.Of course, if planted casually, when the sprouts grow out, they will be very messy and disorderly, and will not look good. As for pot cultivation, it is best to wait until the bulbs have a 3-5 cm sprout before planting, so that the direction of the sprouts can be controlled, making the overall appearance of the plant better.
What growing environment after planting?
For two weeks after planting, lily growth still needs a relatively low temperature to continue developing a good root system, so for potted lilies, after planting you can choose a place without direct sunlight; for field-planted lilies, shade netting can be used to block direct sunlight. However, whether potted or field-grown, after lilies show flower buds, they should immediately be given light. Potted ones can be moved to a place with ample light, and for field-grown ones the shading material must be removed; otherwise, it will affect the number of lily flower buds and the flowering quality. Asiatic lilies in particular are more sensitive to light, and in serious cases all flower buds may drop. Appropriate topdressing can make lily stems thicker and stronger, especially in hot summer. But note that the concentration should be lighter than usual to avoid fertilizer damage. For topdressing, you can still choose a high-potassium special lily fertilizer 15-15-30 mixed with water, at a concentration of 1000-1500 ppm, that is, 1 gram of water-soluble fertilizer added to 1-1.5 liters of water, mixed evenly.
Each variety has different characteristics, and the flowering time also differs. But high or low temperatures will also affect how early or late flowering occurs. For the conventional flowering time of specific varieties, please see the product information for each variety. Here, I want to remind friends in the northernmost areas that in the later growth stage of lilies, if the nighttime temperature falls below 10°C, please move the lilies indoors at night. Generally speaking, the time from rooting to flowering for Oriental lilies is about 100 days, while Asiatic lilies need only about 60 days. Therefore, when flower friends choose varieties, please choose according to local climate conditions and your own care conditions, to avoid the situation where, just at the moment of flowering, they are frozen and all your previous efforts are wasted. Would that not be a pity?
Notes:
1. The earlier mention that "we can use the crisper compartment of a refrigerator, wrapping lily bulbs in peat (peat not too wet; enough that it drips slightly when squeezed by hand) and placing them in the refrigerator's crisper compartment for rooting is a good idea" -- if placed in the refrigerator's cold storage compartment to go through the 2-3 week rooting period, then when taken out from the 5°C temperature of the cold storage compartment, the outside temperature is at least 25°C. Can it adapt?
Answer: Yes. For professional lily cut flower producers, after taking rooted lily bulbs out of cold storage, the temperature inside the greenhouse is as high as 40°C. However, please note to provide shade in the early stage, and after bud emergence please reduce the degree of shading. If heavy shading of 80% is maintained all along, Asiatic lilies may abort their buds due to lack of light.
2. How to handle the bulbs after the flowers fade
After the flowers fade, please cut off the faded flowers. Of course, the stems and leaves are retained. At the same time, please maintain normal care. Generally, when the low-temperature season (November-December) arrives, the aboveground stems will die, and the bulbs will remain in the soil. During this stage, please reduce the use of water and fertilizer. After spring begins, as long as the bulbs have not rotted or been eaten by insects, they will grow and bloom again. For lilies planted in the yard, you do not need to worry about them; the next year they will grow out well, year after year, and more and more small lilies will appear.
3. Posting a few pictures of professional lily pot cultivation from abroad★How to grow potted lilies
Lilies are cool-climate flowers, meaning regions with a cool climate and large day-night temperature differences are most suitable for growing lilies.
Lilies do not have the brown outer skin on the outside of tulip bulbs. Before being planted in soil, they must be stored at a constant 2°C, otherwise they will quickly root and are also prone to rot. So after we buy lily bulbs from the market, we must plant them as soon as possible and cannot leave them for long.
1. Prepare the bulbs
The top is the sprout and the bottom is the roots. Do not get them reversed! Some bulbs have not yet grown roots; look at the scales, and the side where the opening faces upward is the sprout!
Before planting, the bulbs should first be disinfected by soaking in a 1000 times solution of imported carbendazim for 20 minutes, rinsing with clean water, and drying before planting.2. Prepare soil and pots
Lilies like fertile sandy soil with both good water retention and good drainage. Peat:river sand:perlite = 2:2:1. You can also use soil for cactus plants. In any case, you cannot use clay.
Because lilies are bulbous flowers with two layers of roots, the container chosen should be a relatively deep pot.3. Planting
First put 10-15 cm of soil in the bottom of the pot, place the bulbs. If there are three bulbs in one pot, place the heads of the bulbs toward the edge of the pot, that is, tilt them toward the pot edge, so that after sprouting the plants are distributed evenly. Cover the tops of the bulbs with about 5 cm of soil, water thoroughly, and place in a cool place for 1-2 days.4. Care
Water: Keep the soil moist. From just having flower buds to the flowering period, spraying water twice a day, morning and evening, is enough. In addition, use a 1000 times solution of imported carbendazim to water twice a month.
Fertilizing: Generally fertilize once every half month.Common problems in lily cultivation
1. Leaf scorch
Cause of leaf scorch: caused by physiological calcium deficiency.
Conditions for occurrence: It is prone to occur under conditions such as excessive shading, poor ventilation, high air humidity, continuous cloudy days, too-low soil pH, and poor plant root systems.
Preventive measures: Improve ventilation conditions and increase plant water transpiration.
Provide light appropriately earlier and harden the seedlings.
Use rooting treatment before planting, which is beneficial to root development and the absorption of calcium ions.
Peeling leaves (separating the tightly clasped leaves) before the period when leaf scorch is about to appear can also reduce the occurrence of leaf scorch.
Keep dry and avoid long-term standing water on the plants.
Increase the application of calcium fertilizer such as calcium nitrate, which can be done through root fertilization or foliar fertilization.2. Root burn
Cause of root burn: excessively high salt concentration in the soil solution.
A. The soil itself is severely salinized and the EC value is too high;
B. Improper fertilizing, with too much fertilizer applied at one time, causing the soil solution concentration to become too high;
C. Insufficient water and overly dry soil can also cause the soil solution concentration to increase.
Preventive measures: Do not choose soil with excessively high salinity; do not directly place high-salt medium or fertilizer on the bulbs; adopt the method of light fertilization applied frequently, avoiding the use of a large amount of fertilizer at one time, which causes root burn; check the root system frequently. If root burn occurs, water promptly and combine with foliar fertilizer spraying.3. High temperature has a serious impact on lilies, and high temperature should be avoided as much as possible, including high temperatures of the soil and environment. Above 30°C is considered high temperature.4. Common leaf yellowing5. Phytophthora blight
Preventive measures:
A. Focus on prevention, avoid continuously excessive soil moisture (especially avoid flooding) and excessively high air humidity, and try to avoid air humidity above 90%.
B. Disinfect the soil and bulbs before planting. Dexon, phosethyl-Al manganese zinc, hymexazol, etc. can be used.
C. Avoid continuous cropping in disease-affected crop land that shares a common pathogen host, such as avoiding continuous cropping with baby's breath, carnation, Solanaceae, cucurbits and other vegetables. That is: soil that has previously grown baby's breath, carnation, Solanaceae or cucurbits should as far as possible not be used to grow lilies again.
6. Root rot
Preventive measures:
Control soil moisture
Disinfect bulbs and soil with carbendazim, dexon, hymexazol, etc.
Reduce the amount of nitrogen fertilizer used, especially ammoniacal nitrogen, and appropriately increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer7. Fusarium stem rot
Preventive measures:
Disinfect bulbs and soil before planting; lower soil temperature8. Gray mold - avoid continuously high-humidity environments9. Blind flower (no flower)
Causes of blind flower:
A. Insufficient water and fertilizer supply: The lily is a flower variety that needs a relatively large supply of water and fertilizer. In the early stage it mainly relies on the nutrients of the bulb to supply plant growth, and in the middle and late stages it mainly relies on fertilizer and water supply and photosynthesis to maintain plant growth. If the water and fertilizer supply is poor, it will seriously affect the growth and development of the lily, causing the branches to be thick at the bottom and thin at the top, the plant to be weak and spindly, and in severe cases causing blind flowers and bud drop.
B. Temperature too high: Too high a temperature will seriously affect lily quality: lilies prefer a cool climate. If the temperature is too high, growth is too fast, the accumulation of substances in the plant is low, and organic matter consumption is high, which will cause malnutrition and in severe cases cause blind flowers and bud drop.
C. Insufficient light: Insufficient light, overly dense planting, and poor ventilation affect the plant's photosynthesis, leading to low substance accumulation and easily causing weak and spindly plants or even bud drop. OT-type lilies are especially sensitive to light, and insufficient light easily causes bud abortion.
D. Insufficient nutrients in the bulb: If the bulb size is too small, the bulb is harvested too early, or the storage time is too long, the bulb's nutrients will also be insufficient, easily causing blind flowers and bud drop in lilies.
E. Planting depth too deep: If planted too deep, the lily emerges slowly, which consumes a large part of the bulb's nutrients, causing insufficient nutrients in the plant and poor growth, and in severe cases causing blind flowers.
F. Poor root growth of the lily: If the lily's roots are poor, its absorption capacity is insufficient, causing insufficient plant nutrition. The nutrients supplied for bud growth are not enough, bud growth is inhibited, and blind flowers and bud drop can also occur.★Lily variety selection and planting methods
I. Basic introduction
Lilies are hard to grow?
Actually not
I am a bulb enthusiast, and the order I have arrived at from years of cultivation is
Ease of growing: (common problems in parentheses)
Rain lily > Hippeastrum (expensive...) = Freesia (lodging) = Portuguese squill (messy foliage) = Crocus (degeneration) > Lily (bud abortion and bulb rot) > Narcissus (bulb rot, degeneration, slow growth) > Hyacinth (flower stuck in bud, bulb rot, degeneration) > Tulip (bulb rot, bud abortion, one-time) > Ranunculus (rot, in one word) > Anemone (rotting nonstop from the very beginning)
There are too many Oxalis varieties to say for sure; some are as easy to grow as weeds, while others are god-tier difficult
Gloxinia and Cyclamen are better grown as herbaceous plants, so they are not included in the ranking; bulbous iris is not widely popular, so it is not included either
It can be seen that lilies are not only suitable as cut flowers in flower shops; as household potted plants and perennial garden plants they are also very good
Most of the parents of lily hybrids actually come from China. They are truly Chinese flowers and are very well adapted to our climate (except Oriental lilies, which come from Japan)
II. Variety selection
Order of ease of growing
LA > Asiatic (A) > Longiflorum (L) = LO > OT > Oriental (O)
LA is an improvement on Asiatic lilies, producing bulblets faster, with large flowers
LO can be considered an improvement on Longiflorum, with richer flower colors and stronger fragrance
OT improves the heat tolerance, propagation rate and ease of growing of Oriental lilies
Fragrance
Oriental = OT > Longiflorum = LO >> LA Asiatic = 0
The last two, the Asiatic types, are basically unscented, suitable for flower lovers who dislike the fragrance of lilies
Longiflorum has a light, sweet fragrance, stronger at night.
The first two are strongly fragrant. Oriental lilies have the scent of flower shop lilies, OT lilies are sometimes sweet and sometimes pungent, and LO is a mixed scent of Longiflorum and Oriental, with very weak fragrance on hot days.
1. Lily flowers are generally most fragrant 1-2 days after opening, then gradually fade; it is normal for them not to be very fragrant just after opening
2. The fragrance of lily flowers is not harmful to the human body and will not trigger allergies, but an overly strong fragrance may stimulate the olfactory nerves of sensitive people and cause symptoms such as dizziness and excitement with difficulty sleeping
3. Lily pollen easily soils clothing and skin. Do not rinse with water, as it will stick more firmly; instead use clear tape to lift it off. Even so, cutting off the stamens is a good method
Main hybrid classifications, and their detailed advantages and disadvantages
1. Asiatic lily (Asiatic)
Advantages: Many flower colors, short plant height, many buds, flowers facing upward, early flowering (2-3 months from planting), easy to grow, fast propagation, extremely cold-hardy (can overwinter outdoors in Northeast China)
Disadvantages: Flowers are on the small side (12-15cm), no fragrance, relatively high light requirements during the bud stage, and insufficient light easily causes bud abortion
Representative varieties: Many; most can be chosen with confidence, and there are also potted types with a plant height of about 20-30cm
The potted effect of Asiatic lily 'Spring Field', pot diameter 15cm; the right side shows the result of chlormequat treatment, and the far left shows the original plant height
Actual potted plants cannot reach the nominal plant height (110cm); that is the height after two to three years of cultivation
SpringfieldTinos2. Oriental lily (Oriental), commonly called perfume lily together with OT, a flower shop cut flower
Advantages: Strong fragrance and large flowers (15-20cm), low light requirements, flat flower shape, broad leaves, bold and gorgeous blooms
Disadvantages: Some varieties are weak and easily lodge, not very heat-tolerant, propagation is rather slow, late flowering, and lower leaves yellow quite heavily
Representative varieties: Sorbonne (the light pink flower in flower shops), Siberia (the white flower in flower shops)
The potted effect of Oriental lilies (the famous variety Stargazer), very beautiful; note that the leaves are fewer and broader and thicker than those of Asiatic liliesSorbonne3. Musk/Longiflorum lily (Longiflorum), also called Easter lily
Advantages: Elegant and graceful flower shape, very easy to grow, moisture-tolerant, fast propagation, relatively poor cold hardiness, native to the subtropics, does not need low-temperature dormancy
Disadvantages: Only white (all pink and yellow lines are LO hybrids, and online shops all labeled them wrongly this year), pollen easily soils the petals
Representative variety: You have all heard of the famous White Heaven, right4. LO hybrids - recommended
Advantages: Inherits the flower shape and ease of growing of Longiflorum, and the flower color and fragrance of Oriental; very easy to grow and propagate, large flowers (18-25cm), fast development, does not need low-temperature dormancy
Disadvantages: Under high temperatures the flowering period of a single bloom is not long, buds are on the few side, insufficient light makes the color fade, and there are relatively few varieties in China
Representative variety: Triumphator is its outstanding representative; it is especially recommended, one of the lilies any beginner can keep alive (often sold out...)
The potted effect of Little Triumph; note that it is relatively tall and has large flowersUnder strong light and low temperature the flower color is very intense5. OT hybrids - recommended
Advantages: Inherits the excellent genes of Trumpet lilies (whose parents are Lilium regale from Sichuan and so on), has richer flower colors than Oriental, is heat-tolerant and easy to grow, with robust plants, and does not need low-temperature dormancy. The stems are very thick, the flowers are large (20-25cm), and the fragrance is rich; suitable for courtyards and large containers, commonly called Tree lily abroad
Disadvantages: In the first year there are often not many flowers, some varieties have flowers so large they are deformed, and the flowers easily droop
Representative varieties: Conca D'or, Yelloween, Nymph; the colors cover a wide range, especially the yellow lines that Oriental lilies do not have
Note: Except for Yelloween, yellow varieties generally have fewer buds; even a 16-18cm bulb has only two to three buds
A perennial Conca D'or; note the height and number of flowersYelloween, large flowers, with a rich fruity sweet fragrance6. LA hybrids - recommended
Advantages: Propagates even more crazily than Asiatic lilies, large flowers, some varieties lightly fragrant; this type likes to divide bulbs madly and is not as prone to bud abortion as Asiatic lilies
Disadvantages: Like Asiatic lilies, the flower shape is rather stiff, flowers are easily deformed, and the number of flowers is often fewer than Asiatic lilies
Representative varieties: Red Alert, Diamond Party, etc.; basically you can choose any, with no taboos
The potted effect of Red Alert; compared with Asiatic lilies the flowers are larger and the leaves broader; the Longiflorum flower shape was not inherited, and the fragrance comes and goesRed Alert7. Edible lilies
The most common is often the Chinese native species Lilium lancifolium; the plant is tall and slender, the petals are recurved, easy to grow, but not suitable for indoors
Its ornamental value may not match Dutch hybrids; it is one of the parents of Asiatic lilies
A very distinctive recurved, drooping flower type
Sometimes used by unscrupulous sellers to pass off as perfume lilies8. Double-flowered lilies
Divided into Asiatic and Oriental types; their characteristics and care are the same as above. They are rather like double Hippeastrum, while the distinctive features of lilies are not strong; they are easily deformed, with incomplete petalizationIII. Indoor care
1. Light
Not very picky; an enclosed balcony can also be used, and east, west and south sides are all fine
At least 3 hours of direct light, with 4-6 hours better
The blazing sun from the west may scorch Oriental lily leaves, so moderate protection should be given
Note that when Asiatic lily buds are the size of a peanut, light must not be lacking, otherwise the buds will abort
2. Soil; this is the most important. Water permeability and air permeability are the first essentials
I use peat and perlite, but the materials are not limited; as long as it is loose, airy and light, and prevents bulb rot
Peat (grass peat, sterilized nutrient soil, compost soil, coconut coir): perlite (or various granular substrates) = 2:1 to 1:1
The soil near the bulb can have more perlite added, which is safer
When mixing soil, slow-release fertilizer/organic fertilizer can be evenly blended in; do not pile it all at the bottom of the bulb, as it will not be absorbed and easily causes bulb rot
3. Water
Except that Oriental lilies are best kept evenly moist, the other varieties are very drought-tolerant (especially when planted in the ground), so better to err on the side of less than too much; it is fine to water when the pot soil becomes light or the surface soil dries out completely
Each time you water, you can rely on the weight of the pot; water thoroughly when it becomes light
The signs of overwatering are bulb rot, a large number of lower leaves turning yellow and dropping, scorched buds, and scorched yellow top leaves; if any one appears, be on guard
Underwatering rarely occurs, since the bulb and fleshy stem can both store water, so when you see wilting, first suspect bulb rot rather than lack of water
4. Fertilizer and bulb nurturing
Lilies like fertilizer, but apply light fertilizer frequently; heavy fertilizer will cause leaf burn (scorched leaf tips, dead buds)
If growing them for a single season, no fertilizer is needed
If you want them to bloom again year after year, then fertilizing after flowering is very important, mainly with nitrogen and potassium fertilizer
The nutrient absorption ratio of lilies: nitrogen: phosphorus: potassium = 10:1:12, but phosphorus fertilizer is easily fixed and not easily absorbed, so using fertilizer at a ratio of 1:1:1 or 1:1:1.5 is fine
Remember to apply light fertilizer frequently; just add a little with each watering. There is no need for heavy fertilizer; its fertilizer requirement is smaller than that of other bulbs
Do not fertilize at sprouting; during rapid growth, mainly nitrogen fertilizer; when buds appear, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; do not fertilize during the flowering period; start nurturing the bulb immediately after flowering, with the fertilizer ratios as described above
5.pH
The soil for Oriental lilies is best slightly acidic (5.5-6); peat itself is acidic enough
Other varieties have no restrictions
6. Temperature
Lilies are actually spring-planted bulbs: plant in spring, flower in summer, nurture in autumn, store in winter (for most parts of the country)
For the Guangdong and Guangxi regions, where summers are very hot and humid, as well as Hong Kong, China and Taiwan, China, you can consider refrigerating in summer, planting in autumn, and viewing flowers in winter and spring
When rooting in spring, keep the temperature at around 12°C, which is most favorable for stem root growth
In summer, take care to protect against high-temperature damage; low temperatures can extend the flowering period. OT is very heat-tolerant, so it can bloom in the blazing sun, while Oriental lily flowers often wither rapidly when the sunlight is strongest
7. Dormancy
When the temperature is low in winter (0-10°C) they will go dormant (leaves drop and stems yellow; at this point cut off the withered stems)
Ordinary Asiatic and Oriental lilies need a cold period of at least 1.5-3 months (4-5°C) before they can begin the next year's growth
Lilies with Longiflorum (LO, LA, L) and Trumpet (T) genes can be planted year-round, without deliberately creating a cold period; it is only necessary for winter temperatures to be below 20°C
Natural low temperature can be replaced by refrigerating at 4°C in a refrigerator.
Heat-sensitive varieties may go dormant as early as 1-2 months after flowering, but early dormancy is detrimental to building up the bulb for reblooming, and you should certainly not cut off the stems and leaves right after flowering ends.
Leaves dropping and dormancy occurring early often means bulb rot or severely unfavorable conditions.
8. How to Plant
No need for a disinfecting soak.
Try to keep the basal roots (the old roots at the bottom of the bulb); any badly rotted parts can be cut off.
There should be at least 5cm of soil above the top of the lily bulb, bulbs should be spaced 2-3cm or more apart, and the sprout tip should lean slightly toward the pot wall rather than the center of the pot.
9. Planting Depth
Lilies have two layers of roots. The ones below the bulb are basal roots (they can remain functional for several years), and their absorption function is relatively weak. The bulbs you receive often have basal roots that are rotten and broken, so there is no need to worry.
The base of a newly emerged sprout produces several layers of dense, pure white roots called stem roots (annual), and these are the main force for nutrient absorption, which is why the top of the bulb must not be placed at the soil surface.
Moderately deep planting helps avoid heat damage and helps build up the bulb.
So the formula is drainage layer + 3-5cm of bottom soil + bulb + 5-10cm of covering soil. Simple, right~ The pot should be at least 15cm tall.
Water thoroughly to settle the roots, then wait patiently and do not dig around. After the sprout breaks through the soil, resume normal care.
As shown in the picture.Here is an updated beginner planting method: "adding soil in steps - different from the old method of adding all the soil at once."
I forgot to mention this earlier.
When planting lilies for the first time, you can let the soil cover only the lily bulb, without adding more soil on top at first, and just leave 8-10cm of space above the soil surface for adding more soil later. Water thoroughly, wait for the sprout to emerge from the top of the bulb, then gradually add soil to the normal depth (5-10cm from the top of the bulb to the soil surface).
The advantage is that it satisfies everyone's curious and impatient mindset, avoids the dilemma of being afraid the bulb will not sprout and wanting to dig it up but not daring to, and at the same time allows you to adjust the direction of the sprout when it grows so that it does not emerge from deep in the soil at a crooked, unattractive angle. It is also easier to water thoroughly the first time. (For reference only; this method will not interfere with stem root growth.)
10. After Flowering and Dormancy
After opening, they can be cut for vase arrangements and generally fade in 5-7 days, or they can be enjoyed directly on the plant. The cut length should not exceed 1/3 of the plant height (at least 2/3 must be left; the more left, the better, otherwise what will you use to build up the bulb?). The stamens can be removed to prevent staining the petals.
After flowering, remove the spent flowers to prevent seed formation.
Try not to force dormancy. Following the lily's own rhythm is the best way to achieve good reblooming results and a good multiplication rate.
During dormancy, keep them in the original pot, with almost no watering; just give a little water each month to keep the peat slightly moist.
In hot summer regions, you can dig up the bulbs in spring, put them in the refrigerator, and plant them in autumn.
Asiatic lilies and Oriental lilies will sprout new shoots around February-March of the following year when temperatures rise.
Lilium leichtlinii may also sprout in autumn; just let it grow and flower naturally.
IV. Garden Cultivation
This is very simple.
Planting depth is 15cm-20cm in the north, and shallower as appropriate in the south.
Asiatic lilies can be planted throughout China.
Oriental lilies can be planted in the ground with confidence except in South China and Northeast China.
OT, LO, and LA can be planted in the ground south of Liaoning.
Pure Lilium leichtlinii can be planted in the ground south of the Yellow River.
In areas that are especially cold and have no snow cover, you can cover them with 5cm of branches, straw, compost, etc. If there is snow, there is no need to fear they will be frostbitten.
Cold hardiness: A > LA >> LO = OT > O >> L
A late spring cold snap may damage newly sprouted lilies, so some covering protection is needed.
Be sure to dig deeply. Heavy clay soil should be raised into ridges, and more organic matter should be added to facilitate drainage (the key among keys). In hot, dry summers, water occasionally.
V. Lily Propagation Methods
1. Bulb Division
When the main bulb grows to a certain size, the growth points naturally split into two to several connected bulbs (basically all of flowering size). This process begins after flowering and occurs every year, and it is the simplest propagation method.
The propagation speed mentioned when introducing varieties refers to the speed of bulb division.
L=LA=A>LO=OT>>O
Oriental lilies may or may not divide each year, depending on cultivation and care. The first five types all divide very readily.
When the number of divided bulbs is too large and the sprouts are overcrowded, you can pull them apart by hand during winter dormancy. It is very simple and will not harm the bulbs.
Asiatic lilies may send up multiple sprouts in the first year. Such bulbs often flower poorly, but after one year of growing you will have several plants.
The growth point splits in two, with the remains of that year's old stem in the middle.2. Stem Bulbils
These are actually small daughter bulbs produced on the stem roots. Their number and quality are greatly related to the quality of the stem roots and how well they were cultivated that year. After 1-3 years they can reach flowering size.
They develop faster than bulbils, effectively starting from the second growth stage of a bulbil (basal leaf --- stem --- flower).
Asiatic lilies, Lilium leichtlinii, LA, and LO are likewise outstanding at this type of propagation.
Especially LA; in the first year the stem bulbils are very likely to reach flowering bulb size.
The picture shows the small bulbs around the stem roots.3. Bulbils
After Asiatic lilies and Lilium lancifolium flower, especially after bud abortion, they produce small bulbs at the base of the leaves called bulbils. When mature they often grow roots and drop off.
They develop in the soil. In the first year they only grow a single grass-like leaf, then go dormant in winter. In the second year they grow a daughter bulb and clustered leaves.
Then they go dormant again, and in the third year they send up a stem and flower. Although slow, they are produced in large numbers.
When mature they are purplish-black.4. Scales
Very similar to propagating Hippeastrum by cutting the bulb. Remove healthy scales (or scales that accidentally fell off), insert them diagonally in sterilized moist peat or vermiculite, and refrigerate. After one month they can produce small bulbs, which can be potted separately. The propagation coefficient is large but slow.
The development process is the same as for bulbils.5. Seeds - Not Recommended
Not recommended unless you are an enthusiast. Aside from native species such as Lilium leichtlinii and Lilium regale that can be tried, most hybrids either have empty seed shells or grow slowly, and self-pollinated offspring will vary.
6. Cuttings - Not Recommended
Only applicable to Taiwan lily (Lilium formosanum) hybrids, which can root.
If the cut stems of LO and LA are kept moist, they can produce small bulbils that can be separated and planted, but the stems themselves are difficult to root.
It is basically useless for Oriental lilies and others, which is why cut flowers from flower shops cannot be planted.
Lilies are monopodial monocots. Once the terminal bud is damaged, that year's reproductive growth (flowering) stops. Therefore, never attempt topping or cuttings.
VI. Common Problems
Basically, growers' questions are concentrated on the first two items.
1. Bulb Rot - Control watering well; better dry than wet.
Caused by fungi, with waterlogging being the main trigger. By the time it is discovered it is often too late. If the basal plate is intact, you can peel off the rotted scales and store them after disinfection.
Symptoms vary: yellowing leaf edges, lower leaves dropping, plant wilting that does not improve with watering, blackening buds on OT, LO, LA, etc., obviously stalled growth, and so on. All are very likely to be bulb rot.
2. Bud Abortion
Common in Asiatic lilies, caused by insufficient light (continuous rainy weather, being kept indoors). The sign is small buds turning from green to brown, then withering. They will not flower that year, so just keep building up the bulb well. For lilies without Asiatic blood, the main cause of bud abortion is bulb rot.
3. Leaf Scorch
Strong fertilizer or unfermented fertilizer can damage the roots, causing severe scorching of leaf tips and withering of buds. At this point, flush the potting soil with plenty of water, and if necessary repot and replace the soil. Oriental lilies are relatively prone to leaf scorch. Note that chloride ions and fluoride ions in water and fertilizer should be low (phosphate fertilizers such as superphosphate contain more of them, so use with caution).
4. Breaking
Handle the same as bud abortion: continue building up the bulb. Lilies do not produce side branches, so a broken terminal bud means no flowering that year.
5. Lower Leaves Yellowing and Dropping
A common problem in lilies, especially severe in Oriental lilies and some Asiatic lilies. In LA, LO, and OT this phenomenon is not obvious. If it is not severe it basically does not affect the display value and can serve as a reflection of the plant's health.
5. Pests
Not common. Occasionally scale insects, Japanese beetles, aphids, etc. may attack. Snails may chew on buds, so pay attention to protection when planting in the ground.
6. Gray Mold
Common in greenhouses with particularly high humidity and during hot, rainy periods. Mold-like lesions appear on the leaves; spray with fungicide to eliminate them.
7. Off-season Sprouting
For particularly vigorous varieties such as Lilium leichtlinii, new shoots may emerge in winter near dormancy. Let them grow.
8. Failure to Sprout
This is the situation beginners fear most. Fortunately, unless it is due to bulb rot or sprout rot, this situation is rare and is often because the bulb has not experienced enough cold to break dormancy.
In this case you can put it in the refrigerator and plant it once there are signs of sprouting.
9. Deformed Sprouts, Double Flowers
Often appear in cold-treated autumn bulbs and are related to too long a cold treatment period. Generally they do not affect planting.
VII. Selecting, Purchasing, and Storing
Each year suppliers have spring groups and autumn groups.
Spring is a good season to buy lilies. Orders are being taken in various places now, with shipping periods in February-April.
The bulbs you buy are often fresh bulbs with very short sprouts or no sprouts.
In autumn, cold-treated bulbs (to break dormancy for autumn flowering) and pre-rooted bulbs (provided with suitable temperatures in summer for stem root growth) are offered. The shipping period is August-September, with fewer varieties. They are recommended for indoor planting in the north and for the Guangdong-Guangxi region. When planted outdoors in the north, they often dry up in the north wind before they even flower.
When these bulbs arrive, the sprouts are already very long and break easily, so never handle them roughly.
Lily bulbs do not store well because they have no protective outer skin; once they dehydrate, they die.
During winter dormancy they can be left in the original pot without being taken out. Water once a month to keep the potting soil slightly moist.
Those who must take them out of the pot can use a plastic bag filled with moist peat, bury the dug-up bulbs with the stems removed in it, put it in the refrigerator crisper (not the freezer!) for storage, and take them out to plant once dormancy is broken and they sprout.
VIII. Other
Pots:
The bigger and deeper the pot, the better, as long as drainage is smooth.
For home growing:
14-16cm bulbs can be planted three to an 18cm pot.
16-18cm bulbs can be planted three to a 20cm pot.
You can also use a 15cm-18cm pot to plant a single bulb.
This is the minimum for pot use. You can increase the pot diameter as appropriate. Do not use shallow pots, for the reasons already stated above.
Bulb size:
14-16cm bulbs are mainly L, A, LA, and LO varieties.
For Oriental lilies and OT, you generally need to buy 16-18cm bulbs to ensure the flower count.
Bulb circumference is strongly related to flower count. Generally they start flowering at 12-14cm, and 18-20cm is exhibition grade. Lilium leichtlinii lines and OT lines can be grown to 25cm circumference.
Plant height:
When first growing lilies, seeing data of 90, 100, 110, 120, or even 130cm seems terrifying.
But that is the mature plant height that can only be reached after about two years of ground planting.
The plant height of potted plants falls far short of the listed values, and modern hybrids have very thick, sturdy stems, so even with large flowers and many flowers they will not fall over or break.
(In the first year, potted plants are about 1/2 to 2/3 of the standard height.)
Theoretically, strong light and moderately high temperatures make plants shorter and flower earlier, while weak light and low temperatures make stems elongate and flowering be delayed.
Asiatic lilies take 70-90 days from planting to flowering, Oriental lilies 90-120 days, and the remaining varieties are in the order early A.
Please learn to grow lilies in a relaxed, low-maintenance way.
There are many lily-growing posts on forums now, but growers still treat them as far too delicate: how to mix soil, how to disinfect, how to plant, how to water, whether to shade or sun them, all in exhaustive detail. Careful study is certainly good, but I think growing flowers should be a kind of leisure, focused on a calm and tranquil state of mind, rather than being filled with anxiety and worry. What meaning would there be in growing flowers then?
When care becomes too meticulous, it is instead especially easy to become overly diligent, itching to dig them up and look every day, water them a little daily, and move them back and forth, and the result is often that with too much water the roots rot and the flowers are gone.
In fact, under natural conditions, there is often a lack of water and fertilizer, pests and diseases run rampant, heavy rain pours down, and fierce winds blow, yet lilies still bloom and set seed year after year, growing and multiplying; if you ignore them, they can bloom very well.
★How to grow potted lilies
Growth habits: They like moisture and light, and require fertile sandy soil rich in humus, with a deep soil layer and extremely good drainage. Most varieties are suited to growing in slightly acidic to neutral soil. Specifically, there are the following points:
Lilies like cool, humid environments; places with ample sunlight and slightly shaded environments are more suitable for lilies. They are averse to drought and severe heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat poor.
The temperature for growth and flowering is 16-24°C. Below 5°C or above 30°C, growth almost stops; plants only grow normally above 10°C; when it exceeds 25°C, growth stalls again. If the winter nighttime temperature stays below 5°C for 5-7 days, flower bud differentiation and flower bud development will be severely affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers.
They like fertile, deep soil rich in humus, and are most averse to hard clay; slightly acidic soil with good drainage is best, with a soil pH of 5.5-6.5.
How to grow potted lilies? Potted lily cultivation methods:
1. Planting time: Potted lilies are best planted in September-October.
2. Soil: The growing medium should preferably be prepared by mixing leaf mold, sandy soil, and garden soil in a 1:1:1 ratio, with plenty of fully decomposed compost and a small amount of bone meal applied at the bottom of the pot as a base fertilizer. The planting depth is generally about 2-3 times the diameter of the bulb.
The potting soil should not be too wet, otherwise the bulbs rot easily. Potted lilies should be repotted once a year, with new growing medium and base fertilizer.
3. Fertilizing: Lilies do not have very high fertilizer requirements; usually it is enough to apply fertilizer sparingly when spring growth begins and at the early flowering stage. Some growers abroad believe that lilies have a relatively large need for nitrogen and potassium fertilizers and should be fertilized once every 10-15 days during the growing period, while phosphate fertilizer should be limited because too much phosphate fertilizer can cause yellowing leaves.
During the flowering period, phosphate fertilizer can be applied additionally for 1-2 days. To make the bulbs plump, spent flowers should be cut off promptly after blooming to reduce nutrient consumption. Watering only needs to keep the potting soil moist, but during the peak growing season and in dry weather it must be watered appropriately more often, and water should often be sprinkled around the flower pot to increase air humidity.
4. Temperature: The suitable growing temperature for lilies is 12-18°C. In winter, even if the temperature drops to 3-5°C, they will not freeze to death.
5. Light: Lilies have the characteristics of being cold-resistant, light-loving, fertilizer-tolerant, and moisture-averse. Lack of sunlight and long-term shading will affect normal flowering. However, they adapt widely to regions, and can be grown in the ground or in pots in both the north and the south.
Since lilies are bulb plants, they can also be planted directly from bulbs, requiring deep planting to 6-7 cm so that the lateral roots can penetrate deep and absorb as many nutrients as possible. The growing medium needed is preferably sandy loam, and clay and lime soil should not be used. If pond mud is used for planting, some river sand and crushed charcoal should also be mixed in appropriately, so that the growing medium is loose and breathable, allowing timely flowering.
In addition, during the growing period of lilies, the flower pot should be turned once a week. Otherwise the plants tend to grow lopsided, affecting their appearance.
★Lily cultivation methods
Lilies are undoubtedly flowers that many flower lovers greatly enjoy. Many flower lovers want to grow them at home to beautify their rooms, but do not know how to grow lilies. Here is a brief introduction:
Lilies like cool, humid environments; places with ample sunlight and slightly shaded environments are more suitable for lilies. They are averse to drought and severe heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat poor. The temperature for growth and flowering is 16-24°C. If the winter nighttime temperature stays below 5°C for 5-7 days, flower bud differentiation and flower bud development will be severely affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers. Lilies like fertile, deep soil rich in humus, and are most averse to hard clay; slightly acidic soil with good drainage is best. Lily propagation includes methods such as bulb division, scale cuttings, seed propagation, and tissue culture.
I. Growth habits of lilies
Lilies are bulb flowers belonging to the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae. They like environments with ample sunlight and are long-day plants. Light duration not only affects flower bud differentiation but also affects the growth and development of the flowers. Lilies do not like high temperatures and prefer a cool, humid climate. The suitable growing temperature for Asiatic lilies and Oriental lilies is 20-25°C during the day, for Lilium longiflorum it is 25-28°C, and the nighttime temperature should be above 14°C. Temperatures above 30°C will severely affect the growth and development of lilies, causing bud abortion, and the flowering rate will also drop noticeably; below 10°C, growth nearly stalls.
II. Soil requirements for lilies
Lilies require soil that is best as sandy loam rich in humus, with a deep and loose soil layer, able to retain appropriate moisture yet drain well. Clay must absolutely not be used to grow lilies.
Lilies like slightly acidic soil. The suitable soil pH for Asiatic and Lilium longiflorum lilies is 6-7, and the suitable soil pH for Oriental lilies is 5.5-6.5; lilies are generally not salt-tolerant, and the content of fluorine and chlorine in the soil is both required to be below 50 mg/L, with total soil salinity not exceeding 1.5 ms/cm.
III. Preparatory work before planting
1. Soil disinfection: Before planting lilies, the soil must be disinfected. Commonly used disinfection methods include steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. Steam disinfection is rarely used at present because it consumes a lot of energy and is troublesome to operate. Chemical disinfection uses
40% formalin prepared into a 1:50 or 1:100 solution and sprinkled over the soil, with an amount of 2.5 kg per square meter. After sprinkling, cover with plastic film for 5-7 days, then uncover and let it air and dry for 10-15 days before planting, or use 8-10 g/m2 of carbendazim original powder spread into the soil for disinfection.
2. Thawing and disinfection of seed bulbs: After the bulbs arrive, immediately open the packaging and place them in a 10-15°C environment to thaw. After they are completely thawed, disinfect them. Disinfection method: Soak the bulbs in a one-thousandth aqueous solution of captan, chlorothalonil, carbendazim, potassium permanganate, etc. for 30 minutes, or soak the bulbs in an 80-fold 40% formalin solution for 30 minutes. After taking them out, rinse off the residual solution on the bulbs with clean water, then dry them in a cool place before planting. Some domestic planting bases cut off the original basal roots before planting, which helps promote new basal roots.
3. Storage of seed bulbs: If the thawed bulbs cannot all be planted immediately, they must not be frozen again, otherwise there is a risk of frost damage. They can be stored at 0-2°C, but for at most two weeks; they can also be stored at 2-5°C for at most one week, and at the same time the plastic film packaging must be opened.
IV. Planting depth and density
For planting in spring and summer, the planting depth requires the top of the bulb to be 8-10 cm from the soil surface, and in winter 6-8 cm. Planting density varies depending on the variety, bulb size, and seasonal factors. In spring and summer, they can be planted more densely; in winter, when sunlight is weaker, they should be planted more sparsely.
The planting densities of lily bulbs of different groups and different specifications (expressed as the number of bulbs per square meter) are listed below for everyone's reference:V. Management after planting
1. Temperature: To obtain high-quality lily cut flowers, temperature control in the greenhouse is very important. Within 3-4 weeks after planting, the soil temperature must be maintained at a low temperature of 9-13°C to promote rooting. Too low a temperature will unnecessarily prolong the growing period, while a temperature above 15°C will lead to poor development of stem roots. These stem roots will soon replace the basal roots in providing 90% of the plant's water and nutrients, so to obtain high-quality lilies, the development of stem roots is crucial. After the rooting period, the environmental temperature for Oriental lilies should be controlled at 15-25°C, and the environmental temperature for Asiatic lilies and Lilium longiflorum should be controlled at 14-23°C. If the daytime temperature is too high, ventilation and shading should be used to lower the temperature; if the nighttime temperature reaches 15-25°C, then lily cut flower stems will be short, buds few, and quality reduced. At this time (domestically some) use the method of spraying the plants with a gibberellin solution to increase stem length; the specific amount varies with different growth stages and different environmental temperatures, generally less at the early growth stage and more at the later stage. Domestic solar greenhouses generally prolong the growing period of lilies in winter and severely affect cut flower quality, so means of temperature regulation should be increased.
2. Humidity: The soil moisture before planting is best when a handful squeezed forms a ball and it breaks apart when dropped. In hotter seasons, before planting, if conditions permit, water once with cold water to lower the soil temperature. After planting, water once again so that the soil and bulbs make full contact, creating good conditions for the development of stem roots. Subsequent watering should be based on keeping the soil moist, that is, a handful of soil squeezed forms a ball but does not release water. Watering is generally chosen for the morning of a sunny day. The relative humidity is best at 80%-85%, and large fluctuations in relative humidity should be avoided, otherwise leaf scorch may occur.
3. Fertilizer: In the early stage of growth, flowering lily bulbs mainly consume the nutrients stored in their own scales, so too much base fertilizer is not needed before planting. One month after planting, some fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing according to soil fertility. Lilies have a very large demand for potassium, and a compound fertilizer can be prepared according to the ratio N-
P2O5-K2O=14:7:21. Apply as a top dressing at 10 kg per mu each time, once every 10-15 days, until 3 weeks before flower harvest. At the same time, attention should also be paid to supplementing trace elements such as iron, boron, and zinc.
4. Light: Light is an important condition for controlling quality, and lily flower bud development especially requires ample light. Insufficient light will cause poor plant growth and cause lily bud drop, lighter leaf and flower colors, and shortened vase life. When growing lilies in winter in northern China, due to the influence of insulation materials such as glass or plastic film, about 25-30% of sunlight is blocked, so in addition to keeping the surface of the glass and plastic film clean to allow good light transmission, some varieties also need supplemental lighting, which can be done with incandescent lamps. In good modern greenhouses, horticultural high-pressure sodium lamps should be used. When producing lilies in summer, strong direct sunlight must also be avoided, generally using shade nets for shading. Asiatic and Lilium longiflorum lilies are shaded 40%, and Oriental lilies are shaded 50%.
5. Carbon dioxide: Carbon dioxide is beneficial to the growth and flowering of lilies. On sunny days from 8-10 in the morning, in an unventilated shed, apply carbon dioxide gas pills to increase the carbon dioxide content in the shed. Other methods can also be used, for example: hang a plastic bucket every 15-20 meters (the height of the bucket from the ground is 1 meter), fill the bucket with a 20% sodium bicarbonate solution (the baking soda commonly used at home is sodium bicarbonate), then gradually pour the prepared 10% dilute sulfuric acid solution into each plastic bucket in 3-4 portions. Sodium bicarbonate reacts with sulfuric acid to produce carbon dioxide gas. A solar greenhouse 60 meters long and 7 meters wide requires 1.7 kg of pure sodium bicarbonate and 1 kg of concentrated sulfuric acid (concentration 98%).
VI. Harvesting and storage of lily cut flowers
1. Harvesting: Harvest only after at least 2-3 flower buds have shown color. Harvesting too early affects flower color, the flowers will look pale and unsightly, and some buds will not open. Harvesting too late will make post-harvest handling and packaging difficult, the petals will be soiled by pollen, and already opened flowers will release ethylene, greatly shortening the flower's freshness period.
2. Handling: After harvesting, remove the lower 10 cm of leaves, then grade and bundle. A grade interval of 10 cm is appropriate. For lilies bundled in one bunch, the longest stem and the shortest stem should preferably not differ by more than 5 cm, and the flower tops should be aligned.
3. Storage: After bundling, lilies should immediately be placed in clean, pre-cooled water, then placed in a cold storage room. The temperature of the water and the cold storage room is best at 2-3°C.
VII. Common pests and diseases of lilies and their control methods
1. Lily fungal diseases
(1) Blue mold
Symptoms: During storage, white spots grow on the rotting spots of the scales, and then fluffy green-blue patches grow. After infection, even at a low temperature of -2°C, the rot will gradually increase. The pathogen will eventually invade the basal plate of the bulb, making the bulb worthless or causing the plant to grow slowly. Although infected bulbs look unhealthy, as long as the bulb's basal plate is intact, the plant's growth during planting will not be affected. After planting, the infection will not transfer to the stem, nor will it infect the plant from the soil.
Control: Store the bulbs at the recommended minimum temperature; do not plant bulbs whose basal plates have already been damaged; diseased bulbs must be soaked for 30 minutes in a one-thousandth aqueous solution of fungicides such as captan, chlorothalonil, and carbendazim before planting, and then planted. After planting, maintain a suitable soil temperature.
(2) Bulb and scale rot and stem diseases caused by Fusarium
Symptoms: Plants with bulb and scale rot grow very slowly, and the leaves are pale green. Underground, brown spots appear at the top of the scales, on the sides, or where the scales connect to the basal plate, and these spots gradually begin to rot. If the basal plate stem is infected, then the entire bulb will rot. The stem disease caused by Fusarium is a disease that infects the aboveground parts. The identifying sign is that the basal leaves turn yellow before maturity, and the yellowed leaves turn brown and fall off. In the underground part of the stem, orange to dark brown spots appear, and later the lesions expand, finally extending into the interior of the stem. After that the stem rots, and finally the plant dies before maturity:
Control: a. Disinfect the infected soil; b. Plant those lightly or moderately infected bulbs as quickly as possible, and the soil temperature should be low.
(3) Rhizoctonia
Symptoms: If the infection is mild, it only harms the leaves in the soil and the green leaves below the young shoots, and sunken pale brown spots appear on the leaves. Generally speaking, although the plant's growth is somewhat affected, it can still continue to grow. In severely infected plants, the upper growth is hindered, and the white leaves underground as well as the lowest leaves aboveground will rot or wilt and fall off, leaving only brown scars on the stem:
Control: Disinfect soil suspected of infection with a soil disinfectant. After disinfection, it must be ensured that the soil is no longer infected; if the previous crop has already shown infection, ordinary soil disinfectants cannot be used, so before planting, pre-treat the soil with a fungicide for controlling Rhizoctonia (fully incorporated into the soil to a depth of 10 cm).
(4) Phytophthora
Symptoms: Foot rot of the plant (Phytophthora) hinders growth or causes sudden wilting. Soft rot occurs at the infected area at the base of the stem, becoming dark green to dark brown and extending upward, the leaves turn yellow, and discoloration begins at the base of the stem. Similar soft rot infections also often occur on the aboveground stem, causing stem damping-off or bending.
Control: Disinfect infected soil with an ordinary soil disinfectant; during cultivation, fungicides that control Pythium can also effectively control foot rot; ensure the soil has good drainage conditions; prevent the crop from remaining wet for long periods after watering; in summer, the soil temperature should be as low as possible.
(5) Pythium
Symptoms: This type of fungus infects both individual plants and plants within an area. Plants are stunted, lower leaves turn yellow, upper leaves become narrower, leaf color is paler, and they often wilt. In plants affected by root rot, flower buds shrink and dry. When the plant is pulled up, transparent, pale brown rotting spots can be seen on the bulb and root crown, or they become completely soft and rotten.
Control: Disinfect infected or suspected infected soil with an ordinary soil disinfectant; maintain a low soil temperature at the early stage of cultivation, and adopt correct cultivation procedures throughout the cultivation period; cultivation in boxes filled with potting soil and peat can keep Pythium under control.
After the crop has emerged or in situations where Pythium infection may have occurred, fungicides for controlling Pythium that are easy to spray onto the crop can be used, preferably in the evening. Spraying water for a few minutes (about three minutes) before applying the fungicide will significantly enhance the effect of the fungicide, and can also rinse the crop clean.
2. Abnormal phenomena
(1) Leaf scorch
Symptoms: First, the young leaves curl slightly inward, and after a few days yellow to white spots appear on the scorched leaves. If leaf scorch is mild, the plant can still continue to grow normally, but if leaf scorch is very severe, the white spots can turn brown, and at the site of the damage the leaves bend. In very severe cases, all leaves and young shoots will fall off and the plant will not develop further; this is called the most severe scorch. Control: The soil should be kept moist before planting; it is best not to use susceptible varieties; the planting depth should be suitable, with 6-10 cm of soil above the bulb; during periods of increased sensitivity, avoid large differences in temperature and relative humidity in the greenhouse, and try to maintain relative humidity at around 75%.
(2) Bud drop and bud shriveling
Symptoms: Bud drop occurs when the flower buds grow to 1-2 cm. The color of the buds turns pale green, and at the same time the pedicel connecting to the stem shortens, after which the buds fall off. In spring, the lower buds are affected first, while in autumn, the upper buds will fall off first.
Control: Do not cultivate varieties prone to bud drop in environments with poor light. To prevent bud shriveling, the bulbs must not dry out during cultivation. Ensure the bulbs have a good root system and let them grow under conditions as suitable as possible, with particular attention to light and transpiration.
★How should potted lilies be grown
How potted lilies should be grown is what many flower lovers who want to grow lilies themselves want to know. Many articles online are very theoretical, and flower lovers feel uncertain after reading them, so let us use an actual case to explain in detail how to grow potted lilies.
First, a brief introduction: Lilies are perennial herbaceous bulb plants of the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae, mainly distributed in the temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere such as eastern Asia, Europe, and North America. More than a hundred varieties have been discovered worldwide. China is its most important place of origin, with more than fifty native species, and is the natural distribution center of plants in the genus Lilium.
I. The materials needed for planting lilies are as follows:
1. Soil: Lilies are not very strict about soil; as long as it does not accumulate water, it is fine. Ordinary garden soil is also suitable, and of course nutrient soil is even better. For the fastidious, using peat is also perfectly fine.
2. Pot: This needs attention. Lilies have relatively developed roots, so a relatively deep and large pot is suitable; small pots are not suitable! The case below uses a 2-gallon pot.
3. Location choice: Some flower lovers will ask whether a balcony at home with no light is okay, or say they plan to grow them on a rooftop terrace. Here it should be said that lilies like cool, humid environments; places with ample sunlight and slightly shaded environments are more suitable for lilies. They are averse to drought and severe heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat poor. The temperature for lily growth and flowering is 16-24°C. Below 5°C or above 30°C, growth almost stops; plants only grow normally above 10°C; when it exceeds 25°C, growth stalls again. If the winter nighttime temperature stays below 5°C for 5-7 days, flower bud differentiation and flower bud development will be severely affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers.
II. First, a feast for the eyes
The bulbs in the picture below are lily bulbs just received a few days ago. They look pretty good, right! A total of five were bought; I will not post them one by one. Hundreds of flower lovers in the forum joined the group buy!III. Planting process
First: I planned to divide my 5 bulbs into 2 flower pots for planting. I first checked the colors of the bulb varieties. There are 2 Siberia (this is because another variety was originally detained by customs and this was the substitute) which are white, Marlon is pink, Yelloween is yellow, and Tiber is also pink. I planned to plant Siberia and Marlon in white flower pots, and the other three in 2+ pots, so they can look splendid when flowering.
Second: First clean the flower pots thoroughly, lay breathable coarse cinders at the very bottom, and cover with soil on top.
Third: Sprinkle some phosphate fertilizer on the soil (bone meal can also be used as a substitute). If there is no bone meal, chicken manure can also be used as a substitute to ensure nutrition for flowering.
Fourth: Cover with soil again. After covering with soil, sprinkle carbendazim (I carefully checked the root bulbs and found no mold. Flower lovers who received diseased root bulbs can soak the root bulbs in carbendazim before planting).
Fifth: Cover with soil again and place the root bulbs in. You can use scissors to cut off the dried root systems, then cover with soil. Generally it can be level with the upper buds of the root bulbs. A distance should be left between the soil surface and the rim of the pot for filling soil later; this depth is not enough.
Sixth: Water thoroughly, then place in a cool outdoor spot and that is fine.IV. Answers to questions during the planting process
Overall, lilies are very easy to grow. As long as the bulbs are bought correctly, the flowering and survival rate is almost 100%. The growing period generally lasts about 90-150 days depending on the variety;
1. How many lilies can be planted in one pot
It depends on the size of the pot. For a 2-gallon pot with a diameter of about 25 cm, planting 1-3 is fine!
2. Can lilies rebloom
Whether lilies rebloom relatively depends mainly on the first year of planting. If planting in the first year is good, reblooming in the second year is no problem.
3. Are lilies very fragrant
Different lily varieties have different concentrations of fragrance. Whether a specific one is fragrant can be determined according to the variety description at the time of purchase.
★Lily cultivation techniques
Authors: Zhu Yunyi, Yang Ming
Lilies are bulbous herbaceous plants of the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae. Lily stems are upright and graceful, the leaves are emerald green, the flower shapes are peculiar, the flowers are large and brightly colored, and the colors are elegant. Lilies carry the meaning of a hundred years of harmony, are very lovable, and are one of the bulb flowers widely cultivated at home and abroad at present. The introduction and cultivation of lilies in China is gradually expanding, and market sales are increasingly active.
I. Morphological characteristics
Lilies are perennial herbaceous plants. The seed bulb is a non-tunicate bulb, spherical in shape, pale white, formed by the aggregation of several fleshy, thick, ovate-spatulate scales; the stem is upright, with stem roots at the underground stem nodes, the stem is cylindrical or rhombic-columnar, the aboveground stem is upright and robust, green and smooth, the stem diameter is 3-10 mm, and the plant height is 70-200 cm; the leaves are scattered or alternate, sessile, lanceolate to elliptic-lanceolate, entire, with a total of more than 100 leaves; the flowers are solitary in several leaf axils at the top of the stem, with 1-10 flowers, the flowers are large and trumpet-shaped, and different varieties have different flower colors and different fragrances.
II. Requirements for environmental conditions
1. Temperature. Lilies like warm and sunny environments, are relatively cold-tolerant, and fear high temperatures, strong light, and high humidity. The suitable growing temperature for lilies is 15-25°C. Below 10°C, growth is slow; above 30°C, growth is poor and leaf burn occurs. During growth, a daytime temperature of 21-23°C and a nighttime temperature of 15-17°C is best. However, seed bulbs have a dormant period and must go through storage at a low temperature of 3-7°C for 4-6 weeks to break the dormancy of the seed bulbs, so that they can germinate when planted.
2. Light. Lilies like soft light, and are also tolerant of strong light and semi-shade. Insufficient light will cause flower buds to fall off; with ample light, the plants are robust, shorter, and the flowers are vivid. Lilies are long-day plants; with long light, flowering is earlier, and with short light, flowering is delayed.
3. Water. When planting lily bulbs, the furrows should be filled with 3/4 water so that the water fully penetrates the bed surface. After that, when lacking water, irrigate with running water, and just keep the soil moist for a long time. This can increase the emergence rate of the seed bulbs, make emergence uniform, and facilitate the growth of stems and leaves.
4. Nutrients. Lilies are bulb cut flower plants that like phosphorus and potassium and are averse to excessive nitrogen. Sufficient phosphorus and potassium help improve flower quality and the formation and plumpness of the bulbs. Excessive nitrogen is unfavorable for flower and bulb formation, and flower quality is poor and weak. Fertilization should mainly use organic fertilizer, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, with nitrogen fertilizer as a supplement.
III. Cultivation techniques
1. Reasonably arrange the planting period. At present, lilies are planted in Hunan, Sichuan, Henan, Jiangsu, Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangxi, Zhejiang, Guangdong and other places in China. We should make full use of the climate conditions unique to our south in winter, and arrange the harvest period from late December to the May Day holiday, trying as much as possible to avoid competing for the market with lilies grown in other provinces, striving to sell at a good price and obtain greater income and better economic benefits. From planting to harvesting and marketing, lilies generally take 80-130 days. Early planting (such as before the Autumn Equinox) means high temperatures, long sunshine, and strong light, and the time from planting to harvest is shortened; late planting (such as after Cold Dew) means low temperatures, short sunshine, and weak light, and the time from planting to harvest is extended. If they are to be marketed at Christmas, they should be planted in mid-to-late September, and if marketed at Spring Festival, they should be planted in mid-to-late October.
2. Select land, carefully prepare the soil, and apply sufficient base fertilizer. Choose plots with deep soil layers, loose and fertile soil, high and resistant terrain, and good drainage for planting. Planting lilies in plots with half shade and half sun and slightly acidic soil is even better. Lilies are averse to continuous cropping, and fields where the previous crop was peppers, eggplants, and similar crops should not be chosen; leguminous or gramineous crops are better.
3. Build frames and cover with shade nets for shading. In order to meet the light, temperature, and humidity requirements of lilies during growth, since lilies like soft light (semi-shade) and fear high temperatures and strong light, after preparing the land and making the beds, frames should be built and shade nets covered before the seed bulbs emerge. Shade nets with a shading degree of 70-80% are best. For planting from April to August, an additional layer of shade net should be added to lower the field temperature and light intensity, increase field humidity, avoid or reduce high-temperature and strong-light burning of the plant leaves, and promote the growth of the plant leaves. But when the maximum daytime temperature drops to 26°C (generally in early December), the shade net should be uncovered to increase light intensity and promote the growth of the plant leaves. When the average temperature is below 10°C, then cover with nylon film again to increase temperature and preserve moisture, ensuring normal growth of lilies and harvesting and flowering as expected.
4. Reasonable close planting. Because lilies tolerate semi-shade, on the basis of applying sufficient base fertilizer, they can be planted more densely. Generally, 12000-18000 seed bulbs can be planted per mu, with a plant-row spacing of 15-20 x 10-15 cm, and a planting depth of 10 cm for the seed bulbs (at least the height of 3 seed bulbs), so as to avoid sunburn damage to the root system. After planting, spray butachlor immediately to control early weeds in the field.
5. Field management. After full emergence, before the seedlings grow to 20 cm, in conjunction with intertillage and weeding, apply a top dressing per mu of 500 kg of human and animal manure and 10 kg of superphosphate, or apply 10-15 kg of high-quality compound fertilizer (containing 15% each of nitrogen, P2O5, and K2O) plus 5 kg of urea. The concentration of the fertilizer solution should be dilute rather than concentrated; too high a concentration easily damages the roots and inhibits growth, so it should be applied frequently and lightly, once every 8-10 days. When applying top dressing, avoid the fertilizer solution directly contacting the seed bulbs and plant stems, to prevent rotting of the bulbs and plant stems. If the fertilizer solution is splashed onto the plant leaves, then immediately after applying the fertilizer solution, spray clean water to rinse off the fertilizer solution on the plant leaves, so as not to damage the leaves and plants. However, when the winter temperature drops below 8°C, fertilizing should stop, and it should wait until the temperature rises again. After lily emergence, deep tillage and weeding should no longer be done, so as not to damage the root system; weeds should be pulled as soon as they appear to prevent weed damage.
6. Water management. Because lilies like moisture, fear waterlogging, and are averse to drought, on rainy days the ditches should often be cleared to drain accumulated water, and in drought they should be irrigated to maintain moisture, ensuring that after a person walks through the furrow pits footprints remain (but the feet do not sink), the surface soil of the bed does not show white, and the surface soil between beds forms a ball when grasped by hand and, when released from a height of one meter above the ground, the mud ball breaks apart when it lands.
7. Timely control of pests and diseases. Lilies have relatively few pests and diseases. The main diseases are anthracnose, gray mold, damping-off, root rot, and bulb rot. Anthracnose can be controlled with chlorothalonil, Score, Rovral, carbendazim, and similar; gray mold can be controlled with mancozeb, Sumilex, 50% iprodione, chlorothalonil, or 1% Bordeaux mixture; for damping-off, first remove diseased plants, then control with 1% Bordeaux mixture, chlorothalonil, thiram, and similar; for root rot and bulb rot, before planting, dress seeds with 0.5% quintozene to prevent disease occurrence, and in the early stage of disease, drench or spray with 50% amobam 300-500 times solution. For disease control in lilies, spray once every 7-10 days, for 2-3 consecutive sprays. The main insect pests are aphids and white grubs. Aphids and white grubs often gather on tender leaves and flower buds to suck sap, causing plants to shrivel and grow poorly, and can be controlled with fenvalerate, omethoate, imidacloprid, and similar. When controlling pests and diseases, it is best to add some foliar fertilizer, both to control pests and diseases and to promote the growth of the plant leaves.
8. Harvest seed bulbs at the right time. When the underground seed bulbs are swollen, plump and full, and the aboveground plant leaves have yellowed or even dried and fallen off, the seed bulbs can be harvested. Keep the root system of the harvested seed bulbs, remove all loose soil, pile them by grade, and later pack them into cold storage for low-temperature treatment.
★Cultivation techniques for Oriental lilies
With the improvement of people's living standards, the sales of fresh flowers are increasing day by day. In 2007, we introduced and cultivated Oriental lilies in small batches with success. The cultivation techniques are now introduced as follows:
1 Soil preparation
Deeply plow the soil 30 cm, apply 2-3 m3 of peat or rotted fallen pine needles, 3-5 kg of ferrous sulfate, and 500-1000 kg of organic fertilizers such as expanded chicken manure per 667 m2, so that the soil pH is slightly acidic at 6-6.5; and add 1.5-2.5 kg of thiram or 2000-3000 ml of hydroxyisoxazole for disinfection.
2 Bed making
Make raised beds 20 cm high and 80-100 cm wide, with a 40 cm walkway left between two beds, and the length depending on the land.
3 Planting
The planting time should be determined by two indicators: the flower supply time and the growth cycle of the variety. Be sure to use seed bulbs whose dormancy period has passed. The dormancy period varies with variety; generally, after the leaves yellow and the bulbs are lifted, 80-120 days in a 0-4°C environment can break dormancy. For seed bulb disinfection, dress seeds with 5-10 g/kg of carbendazim, or soak seeds in a 2% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 10 minutes before planting. When planting, first scrape the soil layer of about 8 cm on the bed surface to one side, then use a nail board or tree root with measured dimensions to punch holes at set distances. Generally, for medium-sized seed bulbs, the density in spring and autumn is 13 cm x 13 cm; for large bulbs increase by 1 cm, and for small bulbs decrease by 1 cm. The spacing is slightly larger in winter and denser in summer. Generally, about 20000 bulbs are planted per 667 m2. After punching the holes, place the seed bulbs on the holes, then fill back the bed surface soil that was scraped to one side, and rake it level.
4 Water management
After planting, water thoroughly using drip irrigation or sprinkler irrigation; except in summer, flood irrigation is prohibited. Afterwards, water the seedbed whenever it looks dry, watering until it connects with the moist soil below. Avoid waterlogging to prevent root rot; in very dry weather, mist the leaves to maintain relative air humidity at around 70%.
5 Temperature management
From planting the bulbs to emergence takes 20-30 days, during which the temperature should be around 12°C to promote rooting. After emergence, raise the temperature; otherwise, the plants are prone to infection by multiple diseases. Therefore, in winter production, use oil-fired furnaces or small boilers for heating, and in summer use shade nets or ground cover with grass to cool down.
6 Light management
When planting lilies in winter, choose day-neutral lilies as much as possible; do not choose long-day lilies, while in spring, summer and autumn, long-day varieties are also acceptable. Lilies prefer light and are not tolerant of shade; supplementary lighting in winter results in better growth. If not supplementing light, open the straw curtains as early as possible and close them late to extend the light duration. In summer, if a 30% shading shade net can be used to block part of the intense light, it helps lilies grow faster and produce larger flowers.
7 Nutrition management
When the young seedlings have grown stems and the leaves on the stems have unfolded, begin topdressing; apply chemical fertilizer once every 10-15 days, mixing and applying 4-5 kg each of diammonium phosphate and potassium nitrate per 667 sq m. When the plants are 60 cm tall, spray 2%-3% monopotassium phosphate on the leaves every 7-10 days. If the leaves turn yellow overall, spray 0.5% urea; if the small leaves turn yellow, spray 0.1% ferrous sulfate, along with microfertilizers such as copper and zinc. When the flower buds are 6 cm long, stop topdressing.
8 Pest and disease control
The main diseases of lilies include black spot, gray mold and rust, which can be controlled by spraying 500 times dilution of 25% carbendazim wettable powder; pests include white grubs, aphids, etc., which can be controlled by spraying 1000 times dilution of 25% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate.
★Open-field cultivation techniques for lilies
Open-field cultivation is also a common production method for cut-flower lilies. It has advantages such as low production cost and simple cultivation management, but its disadvantages are also obvious: the flowering period is not easy to control, and low product quality is the main factor affecting open-field production of cut-flower lilies.
1. Land selection
For open-field cultivation of lilies, choose land that is high and well-drained, with loose soil. High-altitude cool mountainous areas, or areas beside lakes and rivers and peninsulas, are ideal locations for growing lilies. Northwest Yunnan Province, Xichang in Sichuan, the Qinba Mountains in Shaanxi, Anshan in Liaoning, and Lanzhou in Gansu in China can all serve as bases for open-field production of cut-flower lilies.
Soil improvement
Generally speaking, the soil used for producing lilies does not occupy as vast an area as that for grain crops. If the soil texture is unsuitable, local soil replacement can be used to create a suitable soil environment. When carrying out local soil replacement for lily fields, first dig out the original soil from the rows where lilies are to be planted, and add soft, good soil media. So-called soil media refers to artificially prepared materials that replace soil; commonly used soil media include pine needle soil, peat, fermented wood chips, vermiculite, perlite, etc. Mix these materials with soil in a certain proportion and fill them into the planting furrows for lilies, then plant the lilies. In addition, attention should be paid to measuring the soil pH of the cultivation site.
How to improve soil pH: 6 weeks before planting, take soil samples for analysis to determine salt and oxide content, pH, and nutrient content. If salt content and chlorine content exceed the standard, large amounts of irrigation water must be used to dilute the salts in the soil. Maintaining the correct pH helps the lily root system absorb nutrients from the soil. Applying peat mixed with topsoil can lower pH, and using ammonium fertilizer and urea can also lower pH. In addition, mixing a small amount of sulfur powder or ferrous sulfate into the soil can also help lower soil pH. If the soil pH is too low, mix lime-containing compounds or magnesium lime with the soil before planting. After using lime, wait at least 1 week before planting. During the growth stage, it is best to use nitrate nitrogen fertilizer, which can raise pH.
2. Crop rotation
In order to prevent the massive outbreak of lily pests and diseases, crop rotation should be implemented. Before planting, a unified plan should be made for the land; every plot planted with cut-flower lilies should be rotated every year. During rotation, the previous crop should not be bulb flowers of the Liliaceae or Amaryllidaceae families; planting leguminous plants is most suitable.
Base fertilizer
The fertilizer applied before planting lilies is base fertilizer, generally organic fertilizer with long-lasting fertility. There are two methods for preparing base fertilizer: one is to mix the soil with 1/3 various humus fertilizers (organic fertilizer made by mixing decomposed leaf mold, compost, peat, cake fertilizer, etc.) to form a 30 cm deep furrow; first spread the above mixed soil in the furrow, then plant the lilies. Lilies planted in this mixed soil generally grow better. The mixed soil not only improves the soil but also achieves the purpose of applying base fertilizer.
3. Planting
Planting time: open-field cultivation of lilies is mostly autumn planting, while cold regions use spring planting.
Taking Beijing's climatic conditions as an example, the lowest temperature in January in winter is generally -8 to -15°C, and most cut-flower lilies can overwinter in the open field. Summer is relatively hot, with the highest temperature in July reaching 33-36°C. Therefore, lilies are in a semi-dormant period during this time. According to Beijing's climatic characteristics, lilies can be planted in autumn or spring. Autumn planting is generally carried out in September-October when the temperature drops noticeably. Autumn-planted lilies develop good root systems, grow robustly, and produce more flowers the following year. Spring planting is generally carried out in March-April when the temperature begins to rise. They sprout in April-May and bolt and form buds in May-June. From mid-June to the end of July is the peak flowering season for open-field cut-flower lilies.
The flowering period of autumn-planted and spring-planted lilies differs little, but the stem height and flower number of spring-planted lilies are inferior to those of autumn-planted lilies.
Topdressing
Topdressing for open-field cultivated lilies should be carried out in the early growth stage, late growth stage and bud stage respectively. In the early growth stage, apply 37.5 kg diammonium phosphate and 75 kg urea per hectare; in the late growth stage, apply 75 kg diammonium phosphate and 22.5 kg monopotassium phosphate per hectare; the fertilization method is to dissolve the above fertilizers in water and irrigate. In the bud stage, apply 22.5 kg potassium sulfate, 30 kg monopotassium phosphate and 0.3 kg boric acid per hectare, sprayed on the leaves at 0.1%.
Irrigation
Open-field cultivated lilies can obtain part of their water from natural rainfall, but because it is often not timely, it is far from sufficient to meet the normal growth and development needs of the plants, especially in dry seasons, when timely irrigation is even more important. For open-field cultivation of lilies, methods such as flood irrigation, sprinkler irrigation and drip irrigation can be chosen according to local conditions. Flood irrigation is to introduce water directly onto the bed surface, causing soil compaction. Sprinkler irrigation distributes water evenly and can increase air humidity. Drip irrigation uses a low-pressure pipeline system to make irrigation water drip slowly and continuously into the soil within the active root zone of the plants. Modern cut-flower cultivation often combines sprinkler and drip irrigation: sprinkler irrigation creates a suitable air humidity environment for plant growth, while drip irrigation supplies the water needed by the plant root system. The amount, frequency and timing of irrigation often vary according to season, soil texture and cultivar. As for the amount of water per irrigation, the principle should be thorough but moderate watering. In summer, temperatures are high and evaporation is large, so irrigation frequency should be higher; in autumn and early [season], water demand is low, so watering should be minimized as much as possible, and one freezing-water irrigation should be given before the soil freezes. Clay soil should be irrigated less frequently, while sandy soil should be irrigated more frequently. During the day, in summer, irrigation should be done in the morning and evening, when the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is small and will not affect root activity.
4. Intertillage and weeding
In open-field cultivation of lilies, the soil tends to become compacted after rainfall or watering, which is unfavorable for root growth. In addition, because weeds have strong reproductive capacity, they will grow together with lily plants and compete for water, nutrients, sunlight and space, and can also lead to pest and disease problems in lily plants. Therefore, timely intertillage and weeding are necessary to create a good living environment for lily plant growth.
Intertillage should be carried out in combination with loosening the soil after irrigation. The depth of intertillage should be: shallow hoeing at the seedling stage to prevent root damage; shallow hoeing near the plants and deep hoeing in the rows farther from the plants. When the lilies grow luxuriantly and the field closes in, there is no need to loosen the soil further.
Weeding should be carried out as early as possible at the initial stage of weed occurrence, and weeds must be completely removed before they set seed. As for weeding methods, manual weeding is mainly used for small areas, while mechanical or chemical weeding can be used for large areas.
5. Netting and staking
Open-field cultivated lilies are often vulnerable to adverse weather such as wind, rain and hail, so nets and stakes must be set up in time to prevent the plants from lodging.
6. Topdressing
Lilies are a potassium-loving crop. According to nutrient analysis of Yixing lily plants at various growth stages, K2O content was the highest in all cases; the average content in aboveground stems and leaves at various growth stages was 3.76%, which is 5.55 times the K2O5 content and 1.59 times the N content; the average K2O content in underground bulbs at various growth stages was 2.16%, which is 4.48 times the K20 content and 1.59 times the N content. The seedling stage is the period with the highest K2O content among all growth stages, with 4.70% in stems and leaves and 2.88% in bulbs. Regarding the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in lily plants at various growth stages, the period with the highest K2O ratio in aboveground stems and leaves and bulbs is the middle and late growth stages of lilies. That is, at the bulbils harvest stage and full flowering stage (the beginning of decline of aboveground stems and leaves), the ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in aboveground stems and leaves were 1:0.20:1.98 and 1:0.22:2.22 respectively; the ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in bulbs were 1:0.41:1.79 and 1:0.34:1.66. The traditional cultivation of Yixing lily uses straw mulching and application of organic fertilizers such as pig manure and cake fertilizer, which can supply large amounts of potassium. Generally, about 450 kg of dry straw is mulched per mu. Experiments have shown that without straw mulching, yield decreases by 14.48%. Applying more potassium fertilizer to lilies can promote root development during overwintering and seedling-stage growth, and meet the potassium peak demand of lily plants in the middle and late stages. Potassium can promote the synthesis and transport of carbohydrates in the crop. When potassium supply is adequate, the content of lignin, cellulose and starch in lily plants increases, and the carbohydrates formed by photosynthesis are quickly transported to the bulbs, promoting bulb expansion. Experiments show that applying 15 kg, 10 kg potassium sulfate and 75 kg plant ash per mu generally increases yield by 10% compared with the control. Among them, plant ash gave the highest yield. In potassium-deficient fields, the yield increase from potassium fertilizer is even more significant, with the highest increase reaching 54.29%; each kilogram of potassium sulfate can increase lily yield by 32.76 kg. When lilies emerge, new daughter bulbs are also differentiating and developing in the heart buds of the seed bulbs, so it is necessary to promote strong seedlings and early growth in the early stage. Through repeated experiments, lily fertilizer management should adhere to the principle of "heavy at the front, controlled in the middle, supplemented at the end" and the fertilization method of two "main focuses", namely mainly organic fertilizer, applied at planting time and before emergence, accounting for more than 70% of the total fertilization amount. Generally, base fertilizer per mu includes about 450 kg dry straw mulch, 2.5 tons of high-quality pig manure, 50-75 kg decomposed cake fertilizer, 30 kg standard nitrogen chemical fertilizer, 20-30 kg phosphate fertilizer, and 15-20 kg potassium fertilizer. When hilling soil before emergence, apply 50 kg cake fertilizer, 15 kg standard nitrogen chemical fertilizer, 10 kg phosphate fertilizer, and 15 kg potassium fertilizer per mu (or 30-40 kg of a three-element compound fertilizer alone). If no potassium fertilizer is available, 100 kg plant ash can be applied additionally. For Yixing lily with a yield of more than 1000 kg per mu, the total fertilization amount is 42.7 kg pure nitrogen, 514.1 kg K2O, and 56.2 kg K2O, with a nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium ratio of 1:0.33:1.32. Experiments with different amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium chemical fertilizers show that the optimal application rate of chemical nitrogen fertilizer is 6 kg K2O5 per mu, and chemical potassium K2O 7.5-22.5 kg. The suitable soil pH for lily growth is pH 5.7-6.3. Soils along the Taihu Lake region are generally neutral to slightly acidic, with pH between 6.5 and 5.0. Test results on phosphate fertilizer types show that fused calcium magnesium phosphate is more effective than superphosphate. Lily bulbs are fresh and tender; affected by the free acid in superphosphate, the rate of rotten and missing lily plants increases, diseases are severe, the disease incidence rate reaches as high as 60%, and the disease index reaches as high as 52.5%, reducing yield by 4.6% compared with applying fused calcium magnesium phosphate, and the bulb color is also poor. On alkaline soil with pH above 7.5, applying superphosphate can appropriately adjust soil pH and benefit lily growth.
★Cultivation of Oriental lilies
Oriental lilies, also known as perfume lilies, are one of the ten most popular flowers in the world today. Because of their beautiful flower shape, bright colors and rich fragrance, they are ideal materials for gift bouquets, flower baskets and artistic flower arrangements. Since China's reform and opening up, they have developed rapidly, especially in recent years. Due to the sharp increase in flower consumption in China, their planting area has continued to expand, and oriental lilies have become an indispensable category among fresh flowers. Their cultivation techniques are introduced as follows:
I. Site selection, bed preparation, disinfection
(1) Site selection. Because oriental lily bulbs degenerate quickly and have strict requirements for the cultivation environment, suitable planting areas are difficult to find, so the selection of planting land is also of utmost importance. Oriental lilies prefer cool, humid climates and semi-shaded environments. The soil should be deep, loose, well-drained, rich in humus and slightly acidic.
(2) Bed preparation. The bed surface is generally prepared to 1-1.2 m wide and 25-30 cm high, with a ditch width of 40 cm between beds. Before preparing the beds, apply 1-1.3 tons of humus soil or pig manure per simple greenhouse (30 m x 6.5 m), sprinkle 2 kg of carbofuran or phoxim (used to kill underground pests), water to loosen the soil and mix it thoroughly.
(3) Disinfection. Because oriental lilies are highly susceptible to stem rot, Phytophthora blight, leaf blight and gray mold, prevention should be given priority, starting with soil control. Commonly used methods include steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. a. Steam disinfection: bury heat-resistant plastic pipes with small holes 30 cm below the bed surface, cover the bed surface with film, then introduce steam and continue fumigating for 1 hour. b. Chemical disinfection: generally use 40% formalin prepared into a 1:50 solution and splash it on the bed surface at a rate of 25-30 kg/M; after splashing, cover with plastic film for 2 days, then uncover the film and air-dry for 10 days. Planting can be done only after the chemical vapor has completely dissipated.
II. Cultivation management
(1) Bulb treatment. Before planting, pick the bulbs out of the bulb boxes, handling them gently to prevent breaking the sprouts. At the same time, inspect bulb quality and remove unqualified bulbs such as those with broken sprouts or rot, or with rotten scales or basal plates. Soak the bulbs in a 500-800 times solution of fungicides such as thiophanate-methyl or chlorothalonil or carbendazim for 15-20 minutes.
(2) Planting time. In order to bloom at Spring Festival and Valentine's Day, planting should generally be done in mid-October and early November. When planting, it is best to plant before 10 a.m. or after 4 p.m.
(3) Planting density and depth. The plant spacing is generally 10-15 cm, and the row spacing is 15-18 cm; the planting depth is about 6-8 cm above the sprout point. After planting, cover the surface with a layer of wood chaff and fallen leaves, cover with a shade net, and water thoroughly at the same time.
(4) Make labels and records. After planting, labels should be made, indicating specifications and planting date. Hang two thermohygrometers in each greenhouse, one at the front and one in the middle, and keep a record book. Observe the thermohygrometers three times a day and keep records.
(5) Precautions
1. The sprout point of the planted bulb should point vertically upward.
2. The soil temperature should be lowered before planting.
3. The oriental lilies we plant in Guangxi are generally air-freighted from Kunming and have already been thawed, so they should be planted as soon as possible, minimizing the time left in the open field, and preferably planted within two days.
4. After the young seedlings grow 2 cm above the ground, promptly straighten any seedlings growing improperly. This critical period must be strictly grasped; if this opportunity is missed, straightening the seedlings later can easily damage the root system, and not straightening them will seriously affect the survival quality of oriental lilies.
(6) Water and fertilizer management. When planting oriental lilies, sprinkle 5 kg of superphosphate in each greenhouse. Then, from planting until emergence, generally no fertilizer is applied, but the soil should be kept moist, to the extent that no water seeps out when the soil is held in the hand, avoiding excessive dryness or waterlogging. In particular, water demand is relatively high during the rooting period and harvest period, and especially it must not be too dry. When the young seedlings grow to 10-15 cm, begin applying fertilizer for the first time, then apply once a week, adhering to the principle of light fertilizer applied frequently. At the same time, select several representative plants of each specification in each greenhouse and measure their height, leaf length and width, and leaf number every three days, and keep records, so as to adjust and determine the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer for the next application. Generally, in the early and middle stages, apply more compound fertilizer mainly containing nitrogen, phosphorus and calcium, with a ratio of 10:15:8, to promote seedling growth and rooting; in the middle and late stages, favor compound fertilizer mainly containing nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, with a ratio of 8:10:20, to help increase stem hardness; spray monopotassium phosphate once every 10 days at a concentration of 0.1%. At the same time, pay attention to watering, avoid excessive dryness or waterlogging, and maintain air humidity at 50%-80%.
Precautions: It is strictly forbidden to splash fertilizer onto the leaves. If fertilizer is accidentally splashed onto the leaves, rinse quickly with clean water to avoid burning the leaves and affecting quality.
(7) Temperature management. The temperature must not exceed 30°C at the highest and must not be lower than 5°C at the lowest. The most suitable soil temperature is 12°C-15°C. If it exceeds 18°C or is lower than 10°C, it is unfavorable for roots. After rooting, the temperature can be increased, maintaining 18-25°C during the day and 12-18°C at night. If it is too high during the day, it will reduce plant height, reduce the number of flower buds per stem, and produce large numbers of blind flowers. If the night temperature is lower than 12°C, it will cause bud drop or leaf yellowing, reducing ornamental value.
(8) Light management. The development of oriental lily flower buds especially requires sufficient light conditions, but excessively high temperatures will burn the leaves and reduce the ornamental effect.
(9) Netting and staking. In addition to the color, shape and petal texture of the flowers themselves, the height standard of oriental lilies also requires upright, straight stems. Oriental lilies have strong phototropism and, when cultivated in winter, often lean southward and lodge, so nets and stakes must be set up in time. According to bulb specifications: for large bulbs, set up stakes and nets for the first time when they grow to 20 cm, and the second time when they grow to 45-50 cm; for small bulbs, set up stakes and nets for the first time when they grow to 15 cm, and the second time when they grow to 40-45 cm.
(10) Pest and disease control. Oriental lilies are prone to Phytophthora blight, gray mold and stem blight. a. Pay attention to ventilation in the greenhouse and keep it clean; b. At the initial stage of disease, immediately remove diseased plants and spray 1% Bordeaux mixture and 65% zineb 600 times solution, or use 800-1000 times solution of bactericidal agents (such as thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, agricultural streptomycin for bacteria, etc.) to drench roots or spray; c. Usually give priority to prevention, spraying bactericidal agents once every 10-15 days. D. Pests are generally aphids, which can be prevented with omethoate and derris extract, etc.; after occurrence, spray continuously two or three times. Special note: dichlorvos must not be used during the flowering period, otherwise it will damage the petals. Therefore, after aphids appear on the corolla, use deltamethrin or pyrethrum for control.
III. Harvest
For stems with 5-10 flower heads, harvest only after 2 buds have colored; for stems with fewer than 5 flower heads, harvest only after at least one bud has colored. The best harvest time is in the morning, which can reduce water loss and prevent buds from wilting easily. After harvesting, insert them into clean water containing preservative as soon as possible to absorb water.