What is Rosa chinensis also called? Cultivation methods beginners need to master
People who have grown Rosa chinensis may know that it has strong vitality. It has a very strong vigor and wide adaptability, and its requirements for soil are not very strict, so many flower enthusiasts now like this plant very much
Many people keep pets and grow flowers and plants in their spare time to pass the time, and many of them like to grow all kinds of flowers, plants, and trees at home. Because Rosa chinensis has strong ornamental value and its flowers are also very charming, it has also attracted many people to grow it at home.
I. What is Rosa chinensis also called
In daily life, many people call Rosa chinensis the Queen of Flowers, and this plant is also called "Yueyuehong", and it is an evergreen or semi-evergreen low shrub. This plant blooms in all four seasons, and the flower colors are also diverse, such as pink, red, yellow, and white. It can be used not only as an ornamental plant but also as a medicinal plant. Rosa chinensis also has three natural varieties, and modern Rosa chinensis flower types are also diverse.
II. Cultivation methods and precautions for Rosa chinensis
1. Temperature
Rosa chinensis is a plant that loves warmth, and it also fears heat, while being relatively cold-tolerant. The temperature generally suitable for the growth of Rosa chinensis is about 22-25°C, and the nighttime temperature is 10-15°C.
2. Sunlight
When growing Rosa chinensis, place it in an environment with air circulation, good drainage, sufficient sunlight, and good wind protection. Also remember not to grow it in a dark and damp place, and in the hot summer, remember to shade Rosa chinensis, otherwise the flowers are very likely to dry up after blooming.
3. Water
Because Rosa chinensis is a plant that likes moisture, though it can also tolerate a certain degree of drought, so when growing it, also pay attention to air humidity.
4. Soil
When planting Rosa chinensis, be sure to choose fertile, well-drained, and loose soil, as this is more conducive to the plant's growth. Also, do not choose compacted soil, because this type of soil has very poor drainage. It is recommended that you choose some slightly acidic soil rich in humus, as this can also allow it to grow normally.
5. Fertilizing
Because after May comes the peak growing season for Rosa chinensis, the plant should be fertilized once every ten days. You can choose fully decomposed and fermented vegetable leaf juice or fishy juice, mix them at a ratio of three parts fertilizer to seven parts water, and then apply the fertilizer. By November, fertilizing can be stopped.
6. Watering
Because everyone's conditions for growing Rosa chinensis, such as soil, light, temperature, and humidity, differ greatly, when watering, you should water according to the dryness of the potting soil. Also, when watering Rosa chinensis, you should follow the principle of not watering when not dry, and watering thoroughly when you do water.
7. Pruning
Generally, the plant is pruned in mid-May, and spent flowers should also be cut off in time, so that the plant can concentrate more on sprouting new branches. It can also make the flowers larger and the branches stronger when the plant blooms the second time. In order to appropriately suppress its growth, it is recommended to keep only four to five buds.
Because the degree of pruning on different new branches varies, the plant shape will develop more evenly, and it can also avoid uneven branches or excessive leggy growth.
Introduction to Rosa chinensis cultivation methods: How to grow Rosa chinensis
Introduction to Rosa chinensis cultivation methods: How to grow Rosa chinensisRosa chinensis (Rosa chinensis), also known as Yueyuehong, Changchun flower, Qiangwei flower, and rose, is the city flower of more than 50 cities including Beijing, Tianjin, Shijiazhuang, Handan, Zhengzhou, Kaifeng, Anqing, Qingdao, Shashi, Jingzhou, Hengyang, Nanchang, Dalian, Deyang, Xianyang, Changzhi, Huaiyin, and Taizhou.
Botanical characteristics and historical records
Rosa chinensis is a plant of the genus Rosa in the family Rosaceae. Together with rose and Qiangwei, it originated from wild Qiangwei through selection and evolution. Some of them are native to China, and some species are native to West Asia and Europe. At present, they are widely cultivated all over the world. Over the past nearly hundred years, European and American countries have made great achievements in Rosa chinensis breeding and have cultivated many new varieties. It is worth pointing out that as early as the 18th century, Chinese Rosa chinensis was introduced to Britain and France and crossed with local roses, producing new varieties, so in the life of modern Rosa chinensis, there is half the gene of Chinese Rosa chinensis. In recent years, the main cultivated varieties in China are introduced from foreign varieties, but Yueyuehong, which blooms multiple times a year, is of Chinese bloodline. According to its source and kinship, it can be divided into three categories: 1 naturally occurring Rosa chinensis, species or varieties that exist without artificial hybridization, so it is also called wild Rosa chinensis, such as wild Qiangwei Ui.multiflorah 2 classical Rosa chinensis, namely the early hybrid lines of modern Rosa chinensis, which constitute the Chinese Rosa chinensis line (i?.dhMbh 3 modern Rosa chinensis, which was cultivated through repeated hybridization of domestic and foreign varieties, with new varieties emerging one after another. It will include the large-flowered Rosa chinensis line (GF grandiflora Rosa chinensis line (0, miniature Rosa chinensis line (Minh, climbing Rosa chinensis line (R), and ground-cover Rosa chinensis line, etc.
Today, there are many cultivated varieties of Rosa chinensis, reaching more than 50,000. However, many old varieties have mutated or been eliminated, and even newly introduced varieties will mutate during cultivation, and only numbered experts are clear about this. For example, in Li Wenxian's book Rosa chinensis, the varieties mentioned such as ‘White Snow Mountain’, ‘Green Cloud’, ‘New Star’, ‘Sun King’, ‘Mahina’, ‘Gold Medal’, ‘Moon Goddess’, ‘Mrs. Rosa chinensis’, ‘Pharaoh’, ‘Statue of Liberty’, etc., are excellent varieties of different flower color lines, belonging to those bred by the Henan Nanyang Rosa chinensis Company. This is of little significance for general readers to understand, but it cannot be ignored by commercial producers.
Rosa chinensis likes a warm environment with fertile, moist soil and sufficient light. When light is insufficient, growth is thin and weak, and flowers become smaller and fewer; when summer temperatures are high and the sun is strong, appropriate shading is beneficial to growth and development. Although Rosa chinensis is tolerant of low temperatures, when the nighttime low temperature is lower than ^^, it will affect flowering. However, the alternation of temperatures across the four seasons is still beneficial to the normal growth and development of Rosa chinensis and to pest and disease control.
> Cultivation techniques
Rosa chinensis is cultivated in most provinces and regions of China, mainly produced in Jiangsu, Shandong, Henan, Shanxi, Hubei, Si chuan, Guizhou, and other places. Rosa chinensis is mainly propagated by cuttings and grafting; sowing is used in breeding. Cuttings can be taken in all four seasons of the year, but it is best to do so between April and June. Choose one-year-old branches or branches that have just finished flowering, cut a section of 10 to 15 cm, with 1 to 2 leaves, insert it into a mixed sand and vermiculite seedbed, and keep a semi-shaded and semi-moist environment. After 20 to 30 days, callus tissue forms, and after 40 to 50 days roots develop and the plant survives. The survival rate is as high as over 90^. The cuttings can grow 50 to 80 cm tall in the same year, and in the following year they can be lifted from the nursery and planted out to enter the flowering period.
For grafting rootstock, cuttings can be used, or seedling stock can also be used. Usually Qiangwei and its varieties are used, such as wild Qiangwei (J?. 7nultifl0ra ), R.muUiflora var. cathayensi ) or Qimei (J?. multiflora var. pLatyphylla), etc., and Rosa chinensis seedlings can also be used. Bud grafting is done in summer or autumn, while branch grafting should be done before germination in early spring.
The sowing method is mainly used in breeding new varieties. Harvest in autumn when the fruit matures and turns red-yellow (some varieties have degenerated and do not set fruit). The seeds have dormancy, and after low-temperature sand storage for after-ripening, they are sown in a greenhouse seedbed the following spring, and seedlings emerge in a little over a month. After summer growth, the seedlings can reach about 1 m, and the next year they are transplanted and pruned to enter the flowering period. The characteristic of early flowering in Rosa chinensis seedlings provides favorable conditions for creating new varieties, because the variability of seeds is very great.
In the cultivation and management of modern Rosa chinensis, fertilizing, pruning, and pest and disease control are all very important. In addition, the soilless cultivation techniques of cut-flower Rosa chinensis also need to be mastered. Generally, Rosa chinensis should be heavily pruned once when winter begins, keeping the lower half of strong branches, while weak and old branches are all cut off, and fertilizer should also be applied and the soil protected, which is beneficial for strong renewal the following spring. Rosa chinensis is a flower that families like to plant, because it is easy to propagate by cuttings and easy to grow. Rosa chinensis has a deep root system and is most suitable for garden planting. It likes light and is tolerant of fertilizer. Farmyard manure can be applied several times a year, plus one application of compound chemical fertilizer. Combined with pruning, it can keep blooming every month without fail.
> Ornamental value and applications
Today, cut-flower Rosa chinensis is one of the most important cut flowers on the world flower market, with an annual output of more than 5 billion stems, which fully shows that the love and appreciation of Rosa chinensis is worldwide. In the past 20 years, China's Rosa chinensis flower production has risen greatly. Rosa chinensis cut flowers are both a major consumer flower in the domestic market and one of the main flower varieties for export. Since ancient times, China has loved Rosa chinensis. Whether in ancient gardens or folk courtyards, there has been the habit of planting Rosa chinensis, because it is easy to grow, has a long flowering period, and beautiful flower colors, and it has won the reputation of “Queen of Flowers” and is one of China's traditional top ten famous flowers. An old poem says: “The most elegant flower in the world is Rosa chinensis”, which shows that its outstanding beauty captivates people. “People only say flowers stay red for ten days, but this flower blooms in spring every day”, which further points out the unique charm of Rosa chinensis, and is quite an evaluation from ordinary people. Xu Ji of the Song Dynasty wrote more praise in "Ode to Rosa Chinensis", which is worth enjoying together: “Who says the creator has no partial place, alone sending spring light to stay here. The leaves are dark and deeply hide the blue beyond the clouds, and the branch tips often borrow red from the sun. It once accompanied peach and plum blossoms in the rain when they opened, and still accompanies the parasol tree leaf-falling wind. It exhausts the host's songs and wine, not letting the flower-selling old man be idle.” This shows that Rosa chinensis has a long flowering period, blooming from spring to autumn, and amid the green leaves there is a touch of red, incomparably delicate and very wonderful. For this reason, all who enjoy the flowers drink and sing, and how can the flower-selling old man be idle?
There are many kinds of Rosa chinensis today. Not to mention modern foreign varieties, there are also many local populations in China, such as miniature Rosa chinensis, Yueyuehong, color-changing Rosa chinensis, large-flowered Rosa chinensis, floribunda Rosa chinensis, climbing Rosa chinensis, miniature Rosa chinensis, and ground- cover Rosa chinensis, etc. Each kind of Rosa chinensis has its own characteristics, so their layout and ornamental value in gardens are also different, and their roles in the commercial industry are also different.
Modern large-flowered Rosa chinensis is a hybrid product of Chinese Rosa chinensis and Western roses, and in English they are all called Chi 0 ci. Its flower color is beautiful and not delicate, and it has a contemporary feel. It is an elegant mass flower. For this reason, Rosa chinensis has become the city flower of many cities such as Bei jing, Tianjin, Zhengzhou, Xianyang, and Shijiazhuang. Rosa chinensis is regarded as a symbol of happiness and an messenger of love. Today, in interactions between relatives, friends, and lovers, Rosa chinensis is often given as a gift. The 2008 Beijing Olympics award bouquet used 9 stems of ‘China Red’ Rosa chinensis to express supreme honor.
Rhododendron is regarded as the “Beauty of Flowers”, she is beautiful
Rosa chinensis R. chinensis Rosa chinensis illustrated guide: How to grow Rosa chinensis / How to propagate Rosa chinensis
Rosa chinensis profileRosa chinensis R. chinensis
Aliases: Yueyuehong, Gengshen Qiangwei, Four Seasons Flower, Shengchun, Douxuehong, Yueguihong, Yueguihua, Yueji, Yueyuekai, Yueyuehua, Yanxuehong, Chouchunhua, Yuejigang, Yueguanghua, Tongchuizi, Four Seasons Spring, Shouke
Classification: shrub flower
Family and genus: Plantae, Angiosperms, Dicotyledoneae, Rosales, Rosaceae, Rosa
Full bloom period: all four seasons
Rosa chinensis, called the Queen of Flowers and also known as "Yueyuehong", is in the Rosaceae family. Evergreen or semi-evergreen low shrub, blooming in all four seasons, mostly red, occasionally white, can be used as an ornamental plant, can be used as a medicinal plant, and is also called Yuejihua. Natural flowering period is from May to November, flowers are large and fragrant, widely used in horticultural cultivation and cut flowers. The main types of Rosa chinensis flowers include cut-flower Rosa chinensis, edible rose, climbing Rosa chinensis, ground-cover Rosa chinensis, etc. China is one of the places of origin of Rosa chinensis. It is the city flower of Beijing, Tianjin, and other cities. Red cut flowers have even become a must-give gift between lovers and have become a theme in love poetry. Rosa chinensis (scientific name: Rosa chin...
Cultivation methods and precautions for Rosa chinensis Introduction to Rosa chinensis
Rosa chinensis, called the Queen of Flowers and also known as "Yueyuehong", is in the Rosaceae family. Evergreen or semi-evergreen low shrub, blooming in all four seasons, mostly red, occasionally white, can be used as an ornamental plant, can be used as a medicinal plant, and is also called Yuejihua. Natural flowering period is from May to November, flowers are large and fragrant, widely used in horticultural cultivation and cut flowers. The main types of Rosa chinensis flowers include cut-flower Rosa chinensis, edible rose, climbing Rosa chinensis, ground-cover Rosa chinensis, etc. China is one of the places of origin of Rosa chinensis. It is the city flower of Beijing, Tianjin, and other cities. Red cut flowers have even become a must-give gift between lovers and have become a theme in love poetry.
Rosa chinensis (scientific name: Rosa chinensis), also known as Yueyuehong (Jiangsu and Zhejiang), Yueyuehua, Changchun flower (Changchun, Jilin), Gengshen Qiangwei, is native to Guizhou, Hubei, Sichuan, and other places in central China, and is now found all over the world. It is the city flower of Fuyang, Beijing, Tianjin, Shijiazhuang, Nanyang, Changzhou, Huai'an, and Liuzhou, and the national flower of Iraq, the United States, and Luxembourg.
Natural flowering period is from May to November, flowers are large and fragrant, widely used in horticultural cultivation and cut flowers. The main types of Rosa chinensis flowers include cut-flower Rosa chinensis, edible rose, climbing Rosa chinensis, ground-cover Rosa chinensis, etc. China is one of the places of origin of Rosa chinensis. It is the city flower of Beijing, Tianjin, Wuhu, Handan, Shijiazhuang, and other cities. Red cut flowers have even become one of the must-give gifts between lovers and have become a theme in love poetry. Rosa chinensis flowers have relatively good antifungal activity and synergistic activity against drug-resistant fungi.
Morphological characteristics of Rosa chinensis
Rosa chinensis is a deciduous shrub or evergreen shrub, or a trailing and climbing vine plant. The stem is brownish-green, with hooked prickles or without prickles, but there are also Rosa chinensis with almost no prickles. Branchlets are green, leaves are dark green, leaves alternate, odd-pinnate compound leaves, leaflets generally 3 to 5, broadly ovate (elliptic) or ovate-oblong, 2.5 to 6 cm long, apex acuminate, with sharp teeth, leaf margins serrate, both sides glabrous, smooth; stipules adnate to the petiole, entire or glandular-toothed, apex separated into ear-like shape.
Flowers are borne at the top of branches, flowers are often clustered, rarely solitary, flower colors are very many, shades vary, diameter 4 to 5 cm, mostly double-petaled and some single-petaled; sepals caudate-long acuminate, margins with pinnate lobes; styles free, extending beyond the mouth of the hypanthium, equal in length to stamens; each ovary has 1 ovule. It has the fine name of Queen of Flowers. Flowers have a slight fragrance, flowering period April to October (northern China), March to November (southern China), with the most flowering in spring, most are complete flowers, or bisexual flowers. Fleshy rose hips, red-yellow when mature, splitting open at the top, "seeds" are achenes, chestnut brown. Fruit ovoid or pear-shaped, 1 to 2 cm long, sepals deciduous.
1. Flowers: Flowers are borne at the top of stems, solitary or clustered. There are single-petaled, semi-double, and double distinctions, rich in flower colors and diverse in flower shapes.
2. Fruit: The fruit of Rosa chinensis is spherical or pear-shaped, green before maturity, and orange-red when mature. It contains 5 to 14 bony achenes (seeds).
3. Seeds: The outer layer of Rosa chinensis seeds is the pericarp, and the pericarp has inner and outer layers. The outer layer is a bony layer and is very hard; the inner layer is a fibrous layer, with fibers interwoven vertically and horizontally and very strong toughness. The seed coat is a very thin membranous layer, tightly wrapping the embryo. There is a certain gap between the pericarp and the seed coat.
4. Leaves: Odd-pinnate compound leaves; leaflets 3 to 7, ovate or oblong; leaf margins serrate, [1] most varieties have smooth and glossy leaf surfaces (some varieties are rough and lusterless), and most varieties are purplish-red when the leaves first unfold, then gradually turn green.
5. Stems: The young stems of Rosa chinensis are purplish-red, tender stems are green, old stems are grayish-brown; the stems bear sharp and stiff prickles, and the density of prickles varies by variety.
6. Roots: The morphology of the Rosa chinensis root system is closely related to the propagation method. Seedlings have obvious taproots and strong lateral roots; seedlings propagated by cuttings have only lateral roots, no taproot, and the number of lateral roots is relatively small and their vitality is relatively poor.
Evergreen or semi-evergreen shrub, 1-2 m tall. Stems erect; branchlets spreading, green, glabrous, with curved prickles or without prickles. Pinnate compound leaves with 3-5 leaflets, rarely 7, 10-15 cm long including petiole, leaflets broadly ovate to ovate-elliptic, 2.5-6 cm long, 1.5-3 cm wide, apex acute or acuminate, base rounded or broadly cuneate, margins with sharp fine serrations, surface bright green, both sides glabrous, terminal leaflet with long petiolule, lateral leaflets with shorter petiolules, petiole and rachis with sparse glandular hairs and fine prickles; stipule margins with ciliate glandular hairs or pinnate lobes, both sides glabrous, base adnate to petiole. Flowers several clustered or solitary, diameter about 5 cm, pedicel 3-5 cm long, green, often with glandular hairs; receptacle nearly spherical, sepal lobes triangular-ovate, apex caudate-acuminate, entire or pinnately divided, outside glabrous, inside and margins pubescent; petals double, dark red, pink, rarely white; stamens numerous; styles free, ovary pubescent. Rose hip spherical, yellow-red, diameter 1.5-2 cm, sepal lobes persistent. Northern China April to October, southern China March to November.
Rosa chinensis is a deciduous shrub or evergreen shrub, or a trailing and climbing vine plant. The stem is brownish-green, with hooked prickles or without prickles, but there are also Rosa chinensis with almost no prickles. Branchlets are green, leaves are dark green, leaves alternate, odd-pinnate compound leaves, leaflets generally 3 to 5, broadly ovate (elliptic) or ovate-oblong, 2.5 to 6 cm long, apex acuminate, with sharp teeth, leaf margins serrate, both sides glabrous, smooth; stipules adnate to the petiole, entire or glandular-toothed, apex separated into ear-like shape.
Flowers are borne at the top of branches, flowers are often clustered, rarely solitary, flower colors are very many, shades vary, diameter 4 to 5 cm, mostly double-petaled and some single-petaled; sepals caudate-long acuminate, margins with pinnate lobes; styles free, extending beyond the mouth of the hypanthium, equal in length to stamens; each ovary has 1 ovule. It has the fine name of Queen of Flowers. Flowers have a slight fragrance, flowering period April to October (northern China), March to November (southern China), with the most flowering in spring, most are complete flowers, or bisexual flowers. Fleshy rose hips, red-yellow when mature, splitting open at the top, "seeds" are achenes, chestnut brown. Fruit ovoid or pear-shaped, 1 to 2 cm long, sepals deciduous.
Ecological habits of Rosa chinensis
Strong adaptability, cold-tolerant and drought-tolerant, not strict in soil requirements, but best in slightly acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter and well-drained. Potting soil should be loose, pot diameter appropriate, moisture moderate, thin fertilizer applied frequently, flowers picked and branches pruned, pests and diseases prevented and controlled, and the pot changed every year. It likes sunlight, but too much strong direct light is unfavorable to flower bud development and petals are prone to scorching. It likes warmth. Generally, 22 to 25°C is the most suitable temperature for flower growth, and high summer temperatures are unfavorable for flowering.
It needs sufficient sunlight, air circulation, good drainage, and a wind-sheltered environment, and appropriate shading is needed in midsummer. For most varieties, the most suitable temperature is 15 to 26°C during the day and 10 to 15°C at night. It is relatively cold-tolerant, and when the winter temperature is below 5°C, it enters dormancy. If the summer high temperature continues above 30°C, most varieties bloom less, quality decreases, and they enter a semi-dormant state.
General varieties can tolerate a low temperature of -15°C. It requires fertile, loose, slightly acidic soil rich in organic matter, but its adaptability to soil is relatively broad. Relative air humidity is preferably 75% to 80%, but slightly drier or slightly moister is also acceptable. It has the characteristic of continuous flowering. It needs to maintain air circulation and be free of pollution. If ventilation is poor, powdery mildew is likely to occur. Harmful gases in the air, such as sulfur dioxide, chlorine, and fluorides, are all toxic to Rosa chinensis flowers.
Distribution area of Rosa chinensis
China is one of the places of origin of Rosa chinensis. The blood relationship of modern Rosa chinensis is extremely complex.
Rosa chinensis is the city flower of Zhengzhou, Beijing, Tianjin, Nanyang, Dalian, Changzhi, Yuncheng, Bengbu, Jiaozuo, Putian, Qingdao, Weifang, Wuhu, Shijiazhuang, Handan, Xingtai, Langfang, Shangqiu, Luohe, Anqing, Ji'an, Huai'an, Huaibei, Huainan, Jiaonan, Nanchang, Yichang, Xuchang, Changzhou, Taizhou, Cangzhou, Suzhou, Hengyang, Shaoyang, Fuyang, Xinyang, Deyang, Tianshui, Dongtai, and other cities. Among them, Laizhou City and Shiqiao Town in Nanyang City are the "Hometown of Rosa chinensis", and Shuyang, Jiangsu, is the largest Rosa chinensis production base in East China. Among them, Rosa chinensis produced in Laizhou, Shandong, Shuyang, Jiangsu, and Nanyang, Henan, is famous at home and abroad.
Cultivation techniques of Rosa chinensis: Flowering period control
Rosa chinensis is also called "Yueyuehong", with a natural flowering period from May to November, blooming continuously. However, controlling the flowering period of Rosa chinensis during the Olympics is still very important, especially for potted Rosa chinensis and cut-flower Rosa chinensis. The flowering period must be well controlled to fully complete the temporary flower display tasks at various venues and stadiums during the Olympics and the fresh cut flower supply tasks.
In actual work, specific situations should be analyzed specifically. For field-grown Rosa chinensis, according to its geographical location, while ensuring continuous flowering, let it bloom more and bloom well from August 8 to 24. The following methods are for reference: around June 20, prune all spent flowers and part of the already fully bloomed flowering branches of field-grown Rosa chinensis by 50%, cutting to the round bud position at the mature middle part of the flowering branch; its flowering ornamental period is about August 1 to 15; around June 30, prune all spent flowers and all flowering branches after full bloom by the above method; its flowering ornamental period is about August 10 to 25; after June 30, prune spent flowers at any time to let them bloom naturally. For potted Rosa chinensis and cut-flower Rosa chinensis, calculate the desired flower use date, and about 45 days before flower use, carry out comprehensive branch pruning.
Fertilizer and water management: In the above pruning under various situations, scientific fertilizer and water management should be carried out according to plant growth. After the plant is pruned, when the new generation of buds does not germinate, spray 0.2% urea on the leaves once every 5 or 6 days to promote new bud germination; if the plant grows quickly and new branches grow rapidly, exceeding the planned range, controlling water supply can delay growth. During water control, after branches and leaves wilt, promptly spraying water and recovering within 1 hour is the critical point. Water is the carrier of various enzymes in the plant body. Insufficient water supply reduces enzyme activity and slows metabolism, thus slowing plant growth. If new branches bud later than planned, spray 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate on the leaves once every 5 or 6 days, and flower buds will grow rapidly. The flowering period of Rosa chinensis consumes a large amount of water and internal nutrients, so water supply must be sufficient.
Flowering conditions
1. Sunlight must be long. The place where Rosa chinensis is planted must be both ventilated and able to receive more than half a day of sunlight. This is the primary condition for it to bloom profusely like brocade. If placed in a half-shaded, half-sunny place or a shady place with insufficient light, it can bloom at most only in spring and autumn in a year. Therefore, families whose living conditions cannot meet the light requirements should best not grow Rosa chinensis and instead grow relatively shade-loving flowers and plants.
2. Prune often. Although sunlight conditions are good, if it is not pruned for a long time, Rosa chinensis will not grow well either. The pruning method is: after December each year, when Rosa chinensis leaves fall, prune once, leaving branches about 15 cm high, with the pruning position about 1 cm above an outward-growing leaf bud, and at the same time remove side branches, diseased branches, and concentric branches. After May, each time it finishes blooming, cut off 2/3 or 1/2 of the branch that has flowered, so there will be more opportunities for regenerated flower buds. If you want the flowers to be large, you can also remove part of the buds when there are many, which can both concentrate nutrients and achieve the purpose of extending the flowering period and opening in batches.
3. Fertilize frequently and in a timely manner. Generally, newly planted or transplanted potted Rosa chinensis can be cultivated with humus-rich and loose loess, preferably mixed with 1/4 rice chaff ash or a little broad bean shell, bean cake, or chicken and pigeon manure, so that Rosa chinensis can continuously absorb various nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium from the soil. For old potted Rosa chinensis that need repotting, base fertilizer can also be applied as above; for those not repotted, scrape open the soil surface 2-3 cm and bank in some fresh fish intestines or chicken and pigeon manure, bean cake crumbs, etc. as base fertilizer. This is best done in January to February when Rosa chinensis is dormant. In this way, the fertilizer will gradually ferment into fertilizer liquid and seep into the roots with rain or irrigation water, achieving relatively good results. After May is the peak growing season for Rosa chinensis. Every 10 days, apply a topdressing once. Fully decomposed and fermented fishy juice or vegetable leaf juice can be used, mixed at a ratio of 3 parts fertilizer to 7 parts water and applied. Stop fertilizing in November. If the above requirements can be followed, Rosa chinensis can bring you fresh flowers every month. Rosa chinensis is naturally averse to heat, and it grows best at 20 to 25°C; above 30°C, growth becomes difficult. If fertilizing is well managed, its weakness of fearing high summer temperatures can be overcome.
4. Repotting. Rosa chinensis does not need to be repotted or have its pot changed every year. If it is a small pot changed to a large pot, it can be done in all four seasons.
Early spring management
In early spring, the roots of Rosa chinensis begin to spread in the soil. At this time, the most important care work is pruning.
In warm areas, prune in late February; in colder northern areas, pruning should be carried out in March to April. Pruning generally means cutting off about 1/3 of the plant height, first removing weak branches, diseased branches, and dead branches. The new branches produced by the plant in 2011 are the most vigorous. Choose such main branches and keep 2 to 3, at most 5. According to the plant's original growth, generally at about 50 cm above the ground, prune with branch shears at a position 1 cm above a strong bud. A so-called strong bud is one that has not yet sprouted, is plump, and has already swollen. In order not to let buds grow into overly dense branches, choose and keep strong buds on the outer upper side of the plant. In addition, pruning should be done at a plump part of the branch. When pruning with shears, a "click" sound indicates a plump part. If the cut feels soft, cut further down to a hard place. The aged part at the branching node of the plant is rough and has protruding swellings, with no strong buds at all, so it should also be cut off.
The middle part of 2- to 3-year-old main branches is where new buds frequently appear, so when pruning, only 10 to 20 cm need be kept. Generally, if you want more flowers in the flowering period, prune lightly. If you want the flowers in the flowering period to be good and do not seek many flowers, prune heavily. In addition, for plants with poor growth, you should resolutely prune heavily, because such plants have poor root development; if the crown is too large, it is easy to cause insufficient nutrient supply. At the same time as pruning, it is best to do one high-concentration disinfection, which has a significant effect on preventing pests and diseases.
To make the pruned branches lean outward, supports (wooden sticks, etc.) can be used to fix them, making the tree shape balanced and graceful and avoiding branches and leaves rubbing against each other when the wind blows. Branches sprouting from the lower buds of leaning branches are more robust and bear more flowers, and should be protected.
After Awakening of Insects, insects successively wake from winter dormancy and begin activity. At this time, dissolve 10 mL of fenitrothion (insecticide) and 20 g of wettable sulfur powder used for treating powdery mildew in 10 L of water, and spray the plant with the fully dissolved concentrated solution. Because Rosa chinensis has not yet grown leaves at this time, there is no need to worry about phytotoxicity.
About 20 days after pruning, buds begin to swell. Among them, weak and small buds are often naturally eliminated during the sprouting process. To make the flowers bloom well, keep buds according to the thickness of the main branch: keep 3 to 4 buds on thick branches, keep 1 to 2 buds on pencil-thick branches, and remove all the rest. In colder areas, sprouting is later, so bud removal can be postponed.
If base fertilizer was applied in December, no topdressing is needed in early spring. When buds sprout, scatter an appropriate amount of chemical fertilizer around the roots to promote budding. After buds sprout, on sunny days if the soil surface is dry, water in the morning or before noon to prevent the surface from freezing.
Summer management
Once the full flowering period of potted Rosa chinensis passes, it enters the hot and humid summer, and is mostly in a dormant or semi-dormant state. Strengthening summer management of potted Rosa chinensis and carrying out rejuvenation care can break the dormant period and keep it blooming continuously throughout the summer. The main management measures are:
1. Shading and ventilation. Potted Rosa chinensis has limited soil, and in high-temperature weather it is easy for it to become hot and dry out, so Rosa chinensis must be shaded and cooled. It is best to place the potted flowers from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. in a ventilated place under trees in the yard or under a trellis, so that the potted flowers receive scattered light and create suitable environmental conditions for the growth and flowering of Rosa chinensis.
2. Apply more fertilizer and water. Rosa chinensis blooms many times and needs sufficient nutrients and water to ensure vigorous growth. Entering summer, its evaporation and consumption are both large, and growth is rapid. During the flowering period, apply a thin fertilizer once every 10 days. Bean cake and poultry manure can also be soaked in water, sealed and fermented, then mixed with water as topdressing, so that the plant has abundant flowers and lush leaves and breaks the summer dormancy state of Rosa chinensis. For watering, use sun-warmed water to reduce the temperature difference between the potting soil and the water. If too-cold water is used, it will stimulate the root system and affect the normal development of the plant.
3. Spray more water. Rosa chinensis is in a semi-dormant state above 33°C, and it is most conducive to growth at an average temperature of 20 to 25°C. Therefore, in summer, in addition to appropriate shading, more water should be sprayed, preferably once in the morning and once in the afternoon, to create a humid environment and promote the growth of flowers and leaves.
4. Thinning branches and pruning. After Rosa chinensis blooms, it should be cut below the third compound leaf under the flower to promote the development of sturdy new branches and early budding and flowering. Weak short branches should be pruned first and pruned high; strong branches should be pruned later and pruned short, in order to promote the weak and suppress the strong, and promote uniform flowering. The pruning length of long branches should not exceed one half, to avoid delayed axillary bud germination. In addition, it is not appropriate to keep too many flowers per crop. For potted Rosa chinensis, 3 to 5 flowers are appropriate. Keeping too many flowers disperses nutrients too much, makes flowers small, and affects the next crop of flowers.
5. Loosen soil and weed. While clearing weeds on the pot surface, use a fine wire rake to gently break the surface layer around the flower pot, enhancing the loose and airy performance of the potting soil and promoting the normal growth of the root system.
6. Prevent and control pests and diseases. The site where flower pots are placed should often be sprayed with 15% quicklime water or carbendazim or potassium permanganate aqueous solution for sterilization. July to August, the rainy season with high temperatures, is a high-incidence period for leaf spot and powdery mildew. Spray with 0.3 to 0.5 degree Beaume lime sulfur mixture once a week, for a total of 2 to 3 sprays. From June to July, if longhorn beetle larvae are found causing damage, the branch tips should be cut off immediately. For other leaf-eating pests, once found, immediately spray 800 times diluted monocrotophos for control, which can kill eggs and larvae.
Pot cultivation techniques
1. Potting
This refers to potting newly bred seedlings or field-grown Rosa chinensis lifted as large plants before germination. For small seedlings grown in coarse sand or water culture, as well as bare-root field-grown seedlings, it is advisable to plant them in plain sandy loam for a period, and after the root system grows sturdy, use fertilized culture soil and place base fertilizer before moving them into a pot one size larger. For small seedlings rooted in culture soil or small pots of field-grown plants with soil balls, ordinary culture soil can be used. When potting, first soak a new pot thoroughly with water, wash an old pot clean, and according to pot size place coarse sand 1 cm to 3 cm thick at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer. Then fill part of the soil according to the size of the plant. For bare-root potting, pile the soil in the center of the pot into a small mound, hold the plant upright and straight with the left hand, fill soil with the right hand, and as soil is added, gently lift the seedling upward so that the roots hang downward at 45°. After planting, firm the soil. For root clumps potted with soil, also arrange the root hairs and plant the plant upright. Small seedlings are generally not restricted by time for potting, and once they survive cultivation they should be potted in time to prevent leggy growth and weakness. Field-grown large plants must be potted during the dormant period after leaf fall in early winter or before germination in early spring, otherwise normal growth and development will be affected, tree vigor will weaken, and it will take a long time to rejuvenate. When potting, the soil should be moist and loose. After potting, do not water thoroughly for the time being, and pay attention to shading and wind protection. This can not only promote rapid healing of broken roots but also make rejuvenation and vigorous growth easier.
2. Repotting into a larger pot
According to the plant's growth trend and development needs, remove it whole from a small pot and plant it into a larger pot, including transitioning from plain soil cultivation to culture soil. Repotting into a larger pot is generally not restricted by time. For example, small seedlings potted in a No. 2 pot in spring, if growing vigorously, can be moved into a No. 9 tube pot from July to August. Larger plants can also be potted into a pot one size larger. When removing from the pot, pinch the plant stem with the right index and middle fingers, keep the palm close to the soil surface, and support the pot bottom with the left hand and turn the pot over. For small seedlings, tap the pot edge lightly with the hand; for large pots, hold the pot with both hands and tap the pot rim lightly against a hard place, and the whole root clump can be removed. The original potting soil should be watered beforehand, and it should not be too dry or too wet when removing the pot. For repotting into a larger pot, use culture soil for planting. First remove the whole surface soil layer (the "treasure cover") and the lower drainage layer, then slightly loosen and straighten the fibrous roots coiled around the outside of the root ball. Operate gently and do not break the root ball. Then place it in the pot, add 20 to 60 g of hoof pieces as base fertilizer, fill soil and firm it. After repotting into a larger pot, normal care can continue.
3. Changing the pot
For all kinds of Rosa chinensis that have been potted for two years and have developed into form, in order to keep the plant growing vigorously and the plant shape symmetrical, every year after leaf fall and before germination, combine pruning with changing the potting soil and applying base fertilizer. For changing the pot, generally still use the original size flower pot and no longer increase the number. For those stored closed in soil cellars in winter, after removing the whole root ball from the pot, trim the roots. First remove the surface cover of the root ball and the bottom drainage layer, then cut off the excessively dense fibrous roots coiled around the outside of the root ball. Be careful to check and remove decayed roots and root nodules, keep the protective root soil, and do not break the root ball. In total, the old potting soil removed should not exceed 1/2. Then place it in a cold cellar for temporary planting, and pot it with new soil the following spring. For those kept in a cold room or a plastic-film sun frame in winter, they can be changed to new soil and planted in the original pot, with the key operation points the same as for repotting into a larger pot. After changing the pot, water thoroughly once, and then they can be maintained in a cold room or sun frame.
4. Water and fertilizer
During the growing period of potted Rosa chinensis, water in a timely manner and check for water needs, and often keep the potting soil moist. In hot and dry seasons, spray water on the leaf surface and surrounding environment to keep the branches fresh; in cold seasons, spray water on the leaf surface and surrounding environment to keep the branches fresh; in cold seasons, control water, but the potting soil must not dry out completely. Fertilizing should be based on the fertilizer preferences of different varieties and the needs of each stage of growth and development, as well as temperature, light, and growth vigor, and apply base fertilizer or topdressing in a timely and appropriate amount.
Pruning techniques
Only by promptly cutting off spent Rosa chinensis flowers can nutrients be concentrated and the plant kept strong and flowering without decline. If spent flowers are not removed in time, several axillary buds close below the spent flower often sprout, forming weak branches. These small branches both consume nutrients and damage the plant shape. Even if they can bloom, they are mostly deformed or relatively poor small flowers. In addition, except for flowers from which seeds are to be collected, spent flowers must never be allowed to set seed.
After the first batch of flowers blooms, medium branches should be cut back to medium length, keeping 3 to 4 buds on the branch; weak branches should be cut back heavily, keeping 1 to 2 buds; strong branches should be pruned lightly, keeping 5 buds, appropriately suppressing growth. The second pruning should be light, cutting only above the second leaf below the spent flower, keeping the axillary bud of the second leaf. This is a bud with the best advantages in growth and development and is in a dominant position in the whole plant. Cutting off this bud will affect the next flowering period, flower quality, and plant growth.
After the beginning of autumn, post-flowering pruning (the third batch of flowers) uses medium cutting, keeping 3 to 4 buds on each branch. To take care of plant shape balance, you can also cut down to the branches that flowered in the previous batch. Remove overlapping branches, crossing branches, overly dense branches, and leggy branches, etc., to facilitate ventilation and light transmission and a symmetrical plant shape.
At the same time, post-flowering pruning of Rosa chinensis should also be combined with controlling the flowering period. For Rosa chinensis used for National Day, prune 45 days before flowering, cut back to medium length and keep 3 to 4 buds, and afterward 2 small branches will sprout on each branch. After pruning, strengthen fertilizer and water, pay attention to preventing waterlogging and powdery mildew, and flowers will gradually open in late September.
In addition, pruning can make floribunda Rosa chinensis bloom earlier or later. Light pruning of this type of Rosa chinensis can retain more mature branches, making the plant bloom two weeks earlier; heavy pruning can make the plant produce strong branches that bloom in autumn, delaying autumn flowering by two weeks. Therefore, from an overall consideration, different pruning can be used on plants to advance or extend the flowering period.
Cultivation methods of Rosa chinensis: Methods to promote flowering
Rosa chinensis has large and numerous flowers and needs much fertilizer, so more fertilizer should be applied, and sufficient organic fertilizer should be applied before germination. For potted Rosa chinensis, the pot should be changed once in early spring. The potting soil formula is: (loam) 5 : (leaf mold) 2 : (decomposed manure) 2 : (sand soil) 1, then add a small amount of rapeseed cake and mix well. Afterward, apply topdressing once every 10 to 15 days. For topdressing, liquid fertilizer made by composting cake fertilizer plus phosphate fertilizer can be diluted with water and poured on. Especially after full bloom in May, fertilize in time to promote summer and autumn flowering. [6]
During the growing season of Rosa chinensis, it should receive sufficient sunlight, preferably maintaining 8 hours of light per day. If used for indoor viewing, it should be moved in before 11 a.m. and moved out before 4 p.m., so that it receives soft light around noon, which helps prolong the flowering time.
Rosa chinensis is in a semi-dormant state above 33°C, and it is most conducive to growth at an average temperature of 20 to 25°C. Therefore, in summer, appropriate shading and frequent water spraying should be carried out. To cool down and replenish humidity, during the growing season it is best to spray water once in the morning and once in the afternoon to create a humid environment and promote the growth of flowers and leaves.
After Rosa chinensis blooms, it should be cut below the third compound leaf under the flower to promote the development of sturdy new branches and early budding and flowering. The key points of pruning technique are: weak short branches are pruned first and pruned high; strong branches are pruned later and pruned short, in order to promote the weak and suppress the strong, and promote uniform flowering. The pruning length of long branches should not exceed 1/2, to avoid delayed axillary bud germination. In addition, it is not appropriate to keep too many flowers per crop. For potted Rosa chinensis, 3 to 5 flowers are appropriate, and for field-grown Rosa chinensis, it depends on the strength of the plant. Keeping too many flowers disperses nutrients too much, makes flowers small, and affects the next crop of flowers. [7]
Fresh-cut techniques
Roses should be harvested when the temperature is low and the humidity is high. If roses are harvested too early, the flowers often do not open normally after cutting. Generally, they are harvested 1 to 2 days before flowering. The harvest time is related to the variety; usually, when 4 to 6 petals have loosened the flower bud, they can be harvested. Sometimes it is found that after harvesting, rose cut flowers droop prematurely before the buds have opened. This situation is mainly due to harvesting too early at the bud stage, when the calyx is still tightly enclosing the bud. It is best to cut when the sepals form a 90° angle with the petals. When cutting, the stem should have 5 internodes or a longer length, but there must be at least two buds on the stem. One hour after cutting, insert them into water to absorb water, then grade them by length, bundle them in groups of 10, and wrap them in cellophane. Rose cut flowers have a short vase life and do not tolerate long-distance transport. If harvested roses are not to be sold on the market, they should immediately be stored in a low-temperature warehouse. The storage temperature is 1 to 2°C, and it is best to insert them in water for wet storage. The water quality for wet storage is very important; low pH is beneficial to rose cut flowers. Be careful not to insert the leaves into the water as well. The freshness-promoting agent in the holding container is a mixture of silver thiosulfate and aluminum sulfate. Generally, all rose vase-preserving solutions are called the Cornell formula solution. To overcome the bent-neck phenomenon in roses, cobalt acetate at a mass fraction of 360×10E-6 can be added to the preservative. In addition, adding ammonium ethyl carbamoylphosphonate can prevent red rose cut flowers from rotting and early wilting.
Rose Propagation Methods Propagation
Mostly use the cutting propagation method, but division and layering propagation can also be used. Cuttings can be taken in all four seasons, but hardwood cuttings in winter or autumn are preferable. For softwood cuttings in summer, attention must be paid to water management and temperature control. Otherwise, rooting is difficult. Winter cuttings are generally carried out in a greenhouse or plastic tunnel. If cutting in the open field, measures to increase moisture retention should be taken. Those propagated by sowing are used for sexual hybridization breeding. For a few rare varieties that are difficult to root, grafting propagation is used, and the rootstock should preferably be wild rose. Such as the yellow series varieties.
Management
Rose transplanting is carried out between November and March of the following year. Pruning can be done at the same time as transplanting. First cut off dense branches and dead branches, then cut off old and weak branches, leaving 2 to 3 outward-growing buds so that they spread in all directions; appropriately shorten particularly strong branches to strengthen the growth of weak branches. In summer, when new branches grow too densely, thinning pruning should be carried out. After each batch of flowers fades, promptly cut off the upper part of the branch connected to the faded flowers so that they do not set seed and consume nutrients, retain the plump middle and lower branches, and promote the early emergence of new branches to bloom again. Roses like heavy application of base fertilizer before flowering and topdressing with quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer after flowering to strengthen the seedlings and promote flowering. Roses have strict water requirements and cannot be too wet or too dry. If too dry, they wither; if too wet, the roots are damaged and leaves fall.
Grafting
Mainly cuttings, with sowing and tissue culture as supplements. Commonly used grafting rootstocks include: wild rose, pink cluster rose, 'Baiyutang' (rose), etc.
For open-field planting of roses, choose a wind-sheltered, sunny location with good drainage. In addition to heavy application of base fertilizer, topdressing should also be applied during the growing season. Pruning is an important task. In addition to dormant-season pruning, attention should also be paid during the growing season to bud removal, cutting off faded flower branches, and rootstock suckers. Greenhouse cultivation is mainly for the production purpose of supplying cut flowers, usually planted at a spacing of 30 cm × 30 cm, maintaining 15 to 17°C at night and 21 to 25°C during the day. Potted roses can be used for indoor viewing. The key points of their cultivation and management are: loose potting soil, appropriate pot diameter, moderate dryness and moisture, light fertilizer applied frequently, flower removal and branch pruning, pest and disease control, and repotting every year.
Grafting is one of the most widely used methods for propagating roses. Grafting belongs to the category of asexual reproduction. It combines two plant parts into one whole and allows them to continue growing as one plant. In a grafted combination, the upper part is called the scion, and the part bearing the scion is called the rootstock. Some rose varieties are few in number and have striking flower colors, but their own-root seedlings have weak root systems and grow extremely slowly. Using vigorous rootstocks for grafting makes these rose varieties grow vigorously and enhances disease resistance.
Grafting can also truly reflect the various traits of the original variety, with extremely strong heredity and stability. Through practical observation, for plants formed by growth and development after grafting, from the date of grafting to the opening of the first flower, the fastest takes only 23 days, and individual plants can bloom 1 to 2 days earlier. Most grafted plants usually take about 40 to 45 days to bloom. It can be seen that compared with cuttings, grafting can advance the flowering time.
Taking the Beijing area as an example: on June 15, 2012, grafting and cutting were done on the same day. About 20% of the grafted plants could bloom around July 25, while only about 10% of the cutting seedlings bloomed around September 20 or even later. This shows that the advantages of grafting are very strong. Of course, grafting propagation is complex to operate and has high technical requirements. The specific issues of grafting propagation are explained one by one below.
Factors Affecting Graft Survival
1. Selection of rootstock:
For rose grafting, first of all, a suitable grafting rootstock must be selected. The rootstock not only bears the functions of mechanical support and absorption and conduction of water and nutrients, but also controls the plant's function of absorbing organic matter, is responsible for the production of various enzymes and the storage of nutrients, and has a great influence on various characteristics of the upper stems, leaves, flowers, and fruits of the plant. Of course, the scion in turn also plays an important role in the growth and development of the rootstock root system. Various experiments have proved that the quality of the rootstock is one of the important factors related to whether ideal rose grafted seedlings can be produced. The rootstocks usually used are roses and their varieties, such as 'Fentuan' rose, 'Manetti' rose, Dutch rose, and Japanese thornless rose, etc. These rose species have well-developed root systems, are cold-resistant and drought-resistant, and have strong compatibility with the grafted varieties and stable heredity.
2. Grafting compatibility between rootstock and scion:
Grafting compatibility refers to the similarity in internal tissue structure, genetic and physiological characteristics between the rootstock and scion. Through grafting, it can promote the healing and survival of the plant and physiological adaptation after survival. The manifestations of weak compatibility and strong compatibility are relatively complex. Generally speaking, the closer the kinship, the stronger the compatibility. Compatibility is strongest between the same variety or the same species. The grafting compatibility between different species of the same genus varies by species.
3. Cambium of both rootstock and scion:
The cambium parts of both rootstock and scion must be in close contact over a fairly large area. This is one of the factors for graft survival. Theoretically, complete alignment of the cambium of both rootstock and scion is the most ideal grafting effect, but it is difficult to achieve in actual operation. It is only necessary to achieve the largest possible contact area.
4. Temperature, moisture, and oxygen conditions during grafting:
Temperature is a necessary condition for cell activity. Only cell activity, including cell division, can promote scion growth.
Generally, different rose varieties can promote rapid cell growth within a temperature range of 13 to 32°C. When grafting outdoors, choose the period of the year with the above temperatures and when the cambium is in vigorous activity. Such conditions generally occur in spring, early summer, and September and October. The callus tissue growing from the cambium is composed of thin-walled and plump cells, which easily lose water and dry out, causing the scion to dry up and die. Therefore, the joint must be tightly bound to maintain tissue moisture. The rapid division of healing tissue cells is often accompanied by respiration, and oxygen is indispensable at this time. Therefore, using plastic tape to bind the joint has the dual effect of retaining water and promoting respiration.
5. Quality of rootstock and scion:
According to the growth pattern of the rootstock and the comparison between its cutting seedlings and seedling plants, choosing one-year-old seedling plants as rootstocks for rose grafting is relatively ideal, because they have developed root systems, strong disease resistance, smooth main stems, and moderate thickness. Of course, using cutting seedlings for grafting also has its advantages, such as short cutting time and easy rooting.
Grafting Techniques
1. Disinfection of knives before grafting: During grafting, while ensuring alignment of the cambium of rootstock and scion, it is also necessary to ensure that the cut surfaces of the rootstock and scion are flat. The binding action should be nimble and quick to avoid oxidation and discoloration of the cut surface.
2. Selection and storage of scions: The selection of rose scions is directly related to the survival quality of the grafted seedlings and whether vigorous grafted plants can be formed. Stored scions can be taken out for grafting at any time, eliminating the trouble of collecting them just before grafting, saving a great deal of time, and allowing grafting at any time. The selection and storage of scions should pay attention to the following points:
(1). The scion wood must be healthy and free of pests and diseases. If there is powdery mildew, black spot, or red spider, etc., it should not be used.
(2). Usually, one-year-old or less than one-year-old post-flowering scion wood can be selected. From the second axillary bud below the bract, the entire flowering branch can be used as scion wood. Flowering branches vary in length, ranging from 150 cm long to about 10 cm short, and the number of graft buds they contain varies. Sometimes on the same scion branch, the plumpness and fullness of the graft buds differ, so buds should be selected carefully. Generally speaking, graft buds taken from the middle part of the scion branch are most suitable for grafting and have the best survival rate.
(3). As long as there are plump graft buds, scions can be stored for later use at any time of the year. Of course, in summer they should be cold-stored, and in winter they can be sand-stored. The time for cold storage and sand storage should not be too long. Usually, the number of scions cold-stored and sand-stored should be roughly equal to the number of rootstock plants. Or the number for cold storage or sand storage can be determined by the grafting speed. The prerequisite for cold storage and sand storage is appropriate moisture retention and heat preservation. Only appropriate moisture and heat preservation can maintain the normal physiological activities of the scion wood. Practice has proved that scientific cold storage and sand storage are beneficial to the survival rate and survival quality of grafting.
Grafting Period
According to the growth habits and growth patterns of roses, grafting can be carried out at any time of the year, but specific situations should be analyzed specifically. When the temperature reaches above 33°C, the survival rate of grafting is relatively reduced. Below 5°C, grafted plants are in a dormant state, so using the winter dormant period for grafting is suitable.
Grafting Methods
According to production practice and the mainstream methods of rose grafting, rose grafting methods can be divided into chip budding with wood, T-shaped budding, large-open budding, and rootless rootstock grafting.
1. Chip budding with wood:
(1). On the sunny side of the rootstock 4 to 6 cm above the ground, use a single-edge safety razor blade to cut a shield-shaped incision 1 to 2 cm long at an oblique angle of 30 to 40°. Then, using the same method and the same size, select a plump and full graft bud on the scion branch and insert it into the already cut rootstock incision. Use white plastic tape of moderate elasticity and width to bind firmly from bottom to top with overlapping edges, with moderate tightness.
(2). When inserting the graft bud into the incision, the cambium should be aligned over the largest possible area, so that the rootstock xylem is not exposed. This method is simple, convenient, and fast, with a relatively high survival rate, but it has high technical requirements, and the technique of one-time alignment of rootstock and scion must be mastered.
2. T-shaped budding: T-shaped budding is also a popular method in rose grafting production.
(1). Use a short-bladed vertical knife to make a horizontal cut on the branchless sunny side of the rootstock 4 to 6 cm above the ground, about 5 to 8 mm wide, with a depth just reaching the xylem. Then make a vertical cut downward from the middle of the horizontal cut, about 1.5 to 2 cm long, so that the bark forms a T-shaped opening.
(2). Cut the scion branch from the mother plant, remove the leaf blade but keep the petiole, select a plump and full graft bud, use a sharp knife to make a horizontal cut about 0.5 cm above it, penetrating about 3 mm into the xylem, then use the knife to push and cut upward from about 0.5 cm below the graft bud just reaching the xylem until the cut above the graft bud.
(3). Use the knife to lift open the bark of the T-shaped cut on the rootstock, insert the graft bud into the cut, and after insertion make fine adjustments so that the horizontal cut of the graft bud aligns with the horizontal cut of the rootstock without exposing the rootstock cambium. One-time placement is most ideal. After the graft bud is properly placed, bind it with plastic tape, and the graft bud must be exposed when binding. Although this method appears cumbersome and time-consuming, once proficient, one plant can be grafted within one minute, and the graft survival rate is extremely high, with excellent survival quality.
3. Large-open budding: The large-open budding method is also a very popular grafting method. It has high technical requirements, and the exposure time of the rootstock and scion cuts must not be too long. The operating points are as follows:
(1). On the smooth, branchless sunny side of the rootstock 4 to 6 cm above the ground, use a short-bladed vertical knife to make a horizontal cut, with the depth just reaching the xylem, then aim at one end of the horizontal cut and make a vertical cut downward 1.5 to 2 cm, then at the other end of the horizontal cut make another cut in the same way. Both cuts should have a depth just reaching the xylem. Then make another horizontal cut about 0.5 cm below the horizontal cut, and use the knife to remove a small square piece of bark that has been cut off, exposing the xylem, then use the knife to lift it open.
(2). Remove the leaf blade from the scion branch but keep the petiole, select a plump and full graft bud, use the knife to make a horizontal cut about 0.3 cm above the graft bud, then aim at one end of the horizontal cut and make a vertical cut downward 1.5 to 2 cm, then at the other end of the horizontal cut make another vertical cut in the same way, then aim at the two vertical cuts and make a horizontal cut to form a rectangular bud piece with the graft bud. The depth of all four cuts reaches the xylem.
(3). Use a knife or hand to lift open the rootstock bark, quickly insert the graft bud and make fine adjustments. Align the two horizontal cuts of the rootstock and scion, bind with plastic tape, with moderate tightness. Using this method for grafting, the cambium contact area between rootstock and scion is large, and supply is rapid, which can greatly improve the survival rate and survival quality.
(4). Rootless rootstock grafting: Rootless rootstock grafting is grafting onto already lignified new rootless rose branches, followed by cutting propagation. This method of rose grafting propagation meets the needs of factory-like, specialized, and large-scale production and is not restricted by season. Carrying out all-weather assembly-line production indoors can greatly improve production efficiency, survival rate, and survival quality. Rootless rootstock grafting can adopt the above-mentioned chip budding with wood, T-shaped budding, and large-open budding methods. When using this method for propagation in summer, the graft bud must have 1 to 2 leaves, and moisture-retention care should be carried out after cutting. If rootless rootstock grafting and cutting are carried out in a greenhouse in winter, the greenhouse temperature at night must not be lower than 5°C. For cold-frame cuttings, cold protection measures should be strengthened to avoid freezing damage.
Whether rootless rootstock grafting is carried out in summer or winter, after grafting the cutting density of the cuttings is sparser than ordinary rose cuttings. When cutting, the cuttings should all lean northward at 70°, while the graft bud side faces the sunny direction. Technical requirements: spacing of 5 cm × 5 cm, cutting depth of about 3 cm.
Rose Disease and Pest Control
1. Slug moth
Mainly the larvae of the yellow slug moth, brown-edged green slug moth, beautiful brown slug moth, mulberry brown slug moth, and flat slug moth, which feed heavily on leaves during high-temperature seasons. Control method: Once discovered, immediately spray-kill with 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution, or use 2.5% fenpropathrin emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution.
2. Scale insects
Mainly white scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, brown soft scale, cottony cushion scale, chaff scale, snake-eye scale, etc. Their damage is characterized by piercing and sucking the sap of young rose stems and young leaves, causing poor plant growth. It is mainly induced by high temperature and high humidity, poor ventilation, and insufficient light. Control method: During the peak hatching period of nymphs, spray-kill with 25% buprofezin wettable powder at 2000 times dilution.
3. Aphids
Mainly rose aphid, green peach aphid, etc. They pierce and suck the sap of young and tender plant organs, damaging young stems, young leaves, flower buds, etc., seriously affecting plant growth and flowering. Control method: promptly spray-kill with 10% imidacloprid wettable powder at 2000 times dilution.
4. Rose sawfly
Mostly in the larval stage, dozens or more than a hundred gather in groups to cause damage, and in a short time can eat all the young leaves of the plant, leaving only a few main veins, seriously harming the normal growth and development of the plant. Control method: For a small number of potted plants, when they first appear, pick the leaves with large numbers of larvae gathered on them and trample them to death. If they appear in large numbers, spray-kill with 75% phoxim emulsifiable concentrate at 4000 times dilution.
5. Carmine spider mite
It can occur 10 to 16 generations a year. Adult mites, young mites, and nymph mites gather on the back of leaves to pierce and suck and cause damage. Eggs are mostly laid on both sides of the leaf veins on the back of the leaves or under gathered fine silk webs. Each female mite can lay 50 to 150 eggs, up to 500 at most. The time to complete one generation is only 10 to 13 days at a temperature of 23 to 25°C, and about 7 to 8 days at 28°C. It breaks out severely in high-temperature and dry seasons, often causing a large number of dense small white spots on the front of the leaves, with the back of the leaves turning yellow and occasionally with dead spots. Control method: Once discovered, promptly spray-kill with 25% pyridaben wettable powder at 2000 times dilution.
6. Scarab beetles
Mainly the copper-green scarab, black velvet scarab, white-spotted flower scarab, small green flower scarab, etc. Adults often gnaw on new leaves, tender shoots, and flower buds, seriously affecting plant growth and flowering. Control method: Taking advantage of the adults' death-feigning behavior, shake them off in the evening and kill them. Taking advantage of the adults' phototaxis, use black light traps to trap and kill them. When adults are feeding and causing damage, spray-kill with 50% malathion emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution.
7. Borer
The rose borer is the larva of the rose stem sawfly. It bores holes in the stem, drills into the stem to gnaw and feed, causing branches to break and the upper part to die. The larva is white, with a pale yellow head, and a body length of about 15 to 17 mm. The adult has wings, a black body, and yellow on both sides of the abdomen. The pupa is vermilion. Usually 1 generation occurs per year, causing damage from May to June, pupating inside the stem to overwinter. It is a relatively harmful pest. Black spot: Mainly infects leaves, petioles, and tender shoots. When the leaves first develop the disease, purple-brown to brown small spots appear on the front, and after expansion they are mostly round or irregular dark brown lesions. Spraying carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, daconil, and other drugs can be used.
8. Powdery mildew
It infects tender leaves, with white powdery material appearing on both sides. Early symptoms are not obvious. After the powdery layer appears for 3 to 5 days, the leaves become water-soaked, gradually lose green and turn yellow, and in severe cases cause the leaves to fall off. During the onset period, spraying carbendazim or triadimefon is sufficient, but Guoguang Yingna has the best effect.
9. Leaf blight
It mostly invades from leaf tips or leaf margins. Initially it is yellow small spots, then rapidly expands inward into irregular large lesions. In severely affected leaves, 2/3 of the whole leaf withers, the diseased part chloroses and yellows, and then turns brown, dries up, and falls off. To control the above diseases, in addition to strengthening fertilizer and water management, diseased branches and leaves should be cut off in winter, fallen leaves on the ground should be cleared away to reduce the initial infection source, and integrated control should be adopted when the disease occurs, spraying fungicides such as carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl.
10. Black spot
Mainly infects leaves, petioles, and tender shoots. When the leaves first develop the disease, purple-brown to brown small spots appear on the front, and after expansion they are mostly round or irregular dark brown lesions. Spraying carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, daconil, and other drugs can be used.
Rose Variety Classification Classification Overview
Among angiosperms, in the class Dicotyledonae, the three outstanding plants in the Rosaceae family - rose, Chinese rose, and rose - are actually all plants of the genus Rosa. In Chinese, people are accustomed to calling varieties with large flower diameter and solitary flowers Chinese roses, those with small clustered flowers roses, and those from which essence can be extracted roses. But in English they can all be collectively called rose. According to officially registered varieties, there are about thirty thousand roses. In fact, more than 200 major varieties under the genus Rosa are all called rose abroad, and in Taiwan they are all called rose.
Main Types
The main types of roses include edible rose, climbing rose (CI series), large-flowered hybrid tea rose (cut flower roses are mainly large-flowered hybrid tea roses) (HT series), floribunda rose (polyantha rose) (F/FI series), miniature rose (Min series), tree rose, grandiflora rose (Gr series), shrub rose (sh series), ground-cover rose (Gc series), etc.
Climbing Rose (CI series)
A new star in landscaping - the climbing rose is a climbing shrub of the genus Rosa in the subfamily Rosoideae. The plant is relatively tall. Each year it sends out thick new branches from the base, and thicker lateral branches grow from the tips of two-year-old climbing branches. It has a four-season flowering habit, but the number of flowers is greatest only in late spring or early summer. It is a climbing growth type, with a developed root system, extremely strong resistance, rapid branch germination, and strong growth. One plant can germinate 7 to 8 main branches per year, and each main branch further branches in an open manner. The annual maximum growth can reach 5 m, and it has very strong disease resistance.
Extensive management, tolerant of pruning, rich in flower forms, and flowering continuously in all four seasons (some are also one-season or two-season flowering types), with brilliant, bold colors, long flowering period, and rich fragrance. Flower colors include vermilion, bright red, fresh red, pink, golden yellow, orange yellow, bicolor, pure white, etc. It sprouts at two-year-old nodes, blooms all over the plant, and has numerous flower heads, and can form landscapes such as flower balls, flower columns, flower walls, flower seas, flower waterfalls, arch shapes, and corridor shapes.
Cut Flower Roses
Varieties include:
1. Red series: Royal Carriage, Dushutai, Uncle Walter (classic variety), Orange-red Flame, Vermilion Queen, Chang'e Flying to the Moon, Summer Camp, Mozart, etc.
2. Yellow series: Spectrum (classic variety), Jubilation, Long Rainbow, Golden Sunshine, King of Light, etc.
3. Pink series: Pink Fan, Orchid Moon, Parade (classic variety), Angela, etc.
4. White series: White River, Climbing Green Cloud.
5. Bicolor series: Eden Rose (classic variety), Flower Fairy, Colorful Cloud, Flying Tiger, Flower Soul, Climbing Electronic Watch, Purple Robe Jade Belt (classic variety), etc.
6. Orange series: Kunteng, Western Earth, Sweet Dream, Stream, etc.
Large-flowered Hybrid Tea Rose (HT series)
There are many varieties, and it is the main body of modern roses. Its characteristics are: robust plants, single or clustered flowers, large flowers, elegant and beautiful flower forms, many flower colors, bright and lively, with a fragrant scent, and strong ornamental value.
Varieties include:
1. White: Tinwald, Kennedy (classic variety), Wedding White, First White, White Satin, Green Cloud, Tineke (classic variety), White Christmas (classic variety), White Wine, etc.
2. Yellow: Golden Phoenix, Ohio Gold, Gold Medal, Rhine Gold (classic variety), Gold Medal, Solido, Green Field, Princess Cantor, etc.
3. Red: Scarlet Fan, Star (classic variety), Mister Lincoln lipstick, Cator Card, Han Qian, Rose Center, Budapest Member, Fragrant Magic, Olympic Games, Fragrant Cloud, etc.
4. Blue: Blue Moon (classic variety), Blue Peace, Sapphire, Blue Ribbon (classic variety), Jacaranda, Blue Perfume (classic variety), Blue River (classic variety), Paradise, etc.
5. Black-red: Mister Lincoln (classic variety, one of the 10 most fragrant rose varieties, a representative variety of large-flowered hybrid tea roses, the standard flower for rose evaluation), Warrior, Grand Purple Light, Black Whirlwind, Spotted Granite, Black Pearl, Vermilion and Ink Double Radiance, etc.
6. Green: Green Star, Green Calyx.
7. Orange: Jesta. Joey, Quintley, Golden Bull, Maxina, Grand Medal, etc.
8. Pink: Pink Fan, Pink Peace (classic variety), First-Class Lady, Japanese Pink, Drunken Fragrant Wine, Chuck Red, Tang Red, etc.
9. Bicolor: Peace (classic variety), Fire Peace, Chicago Peace (classic variety), Double Delight (classic variety, first among the 10 most fragrant rose varieties), Greek Home (fragrant) (classic variety), Mister Lincoln Capriccio, Love, My Choice, Light of Peace, Chicoco, Modern Art, Princess of Monaco, Colorful Cloud, Garibaldi, Float, etc.
Floribunda Rose (F/FI series)
Floribunda roses have an expansive growth habit, with flower heads in clusters. They are cold-resistant, heat-resistant, drought-resistant, waterlogging-resistant, and disease-resistant, with extremely strong adaptability to the environment. They are widely used in urban environmental greening, arranging garden flower beds, expressways, etc.
Miniature Rose (Min series)
A new variety in the rose family, with a short plant type, spherical shape, and numerous flower heads. Because of its unique characteristics, it is also called "diamond rose." It is mainly used for potted viewing, decorating lawns, and arranging color patterns.
Tree Rose
Tree rose, also called rose tree or rose standard, achieves a standard upright trunk and crown through more than two grafting procedures. Current tree rose specifications (height 0.4 to 2.0 m, trunk diameter 1 to 5 cm).
Advantages: Good ornamental effect, unique shape, noble and elegant, with distinct layers, refreshing in visual effect; diverse shapes, including round ball type, fan type, waterfall type, miniature type, etc.; it retains the advantages of ordinary roses such as strong fragrance, long flowering period, and diverse flower colors, while appearing more novel, more noble, and more enthusiastic, and therefore has higher aesthetic value.
Habits: Strong adaptability. The crown of the tree rose is farther from the ground than ordinary flowers, making it less likely to be infected by soil-borne pests and diseases; the trunk is taken from rose, with a developed root system and extremely strong vitality of the Rosaceae rose. Especially in areas with relatively high alkalinity, where planting ordinary roses is difficult, tree roses fill the gap.
Ground-cover Rose (Gc series)
The newest ecological vegetation flower - ground-cover rose. Its growth conditions are:
It is a creeping and spreading type, with a height not exceeding 20 cm. Each plant produces more than 50 branches per year, branches root when touching the ground, and each branch blooms 50 to 100 flowers at one time.
The root system is developed, with the deepest roots reaching more than 2 m.
Large coverage area, with a single plant covering more than 1 sq m.
Strong flowering gregariousness, flowering continuously in all four seasons.
Its biological habits are:
Drought-tolerant, able to grow in areas with annual rainfall of 150 to 200 mm.
Tolerant of barren soil, slopes, and dense shade, and able to be planted and grow in areas where irrigation is difficult.
Tolerant of high temperature and high humidity, able to grow normally at a low temperature of -30°C and a high temperature of 42°C.
Extensive management, strong disease resistance, no need for pesticide application, no pruning, reducing a large amount of management costs.
The effect of arranging color blocks and road strips is remarkable. Ground-cover roses have deep roots and lush leaves, with strong branch and leaf expansion, and strong leaf surface respiration, with a high adsorption rate for urban dust and harmful substances. They are an excellent choice for water conservation and soil and water loss control.
Varieties include: Brazilian Noir, Ground Cover No. 1, Hardford Jun, Rose Carpet, Kent, New Olympics, etc., Flower Carpet.
Peace Rose
The Peace rose was bred by the Frenchman Francis Meilland in 1939 under the iron heel of fascism. He sent this rose to the United States under the code 3-35-40. After American horticulturist Robert Pyle received this variety that had crossed the ocean, he immediately distributed it to important flower nurseries in the northern and southern United States for propagation. A few years later, this new variety made a comeback and caused a sensation throughout the United States. In 1945, the American Pacific Rose Society named this variety Peace and declared: We firmly believe that this most remarkable new rose variety of the contemporary era should be named after the greatest wish of the people of the world today, "Peace." We believe that the Peace rose will serve as a model and grow forever in the gardens of our descendants. On the day the Peace rose was named, it happened that the Allied forces captured Berlin and Hitler perished. And when the Peace rose received the unconditional surrender of American imperialism. When the United Nations was established and held its first meeting in San Francisco, in the vase of each delegate's room there was a bouquet of Peace roses presented by the American Rose Society. On it was a note reading: We hope that the "Peace" rose can influence people's thoughts and give the world lasting peace. During the Second World War, fascist bandits in a village called Lidice, fourteen kilometers from Prague, killed one hundred and seventy-five men over the age of fifteen and imprisoned women and children in concentration camps. After the war, in memory of these people, many rose experts and some voluntary donors built a rose garden there in 1955, among which the main variety was the Peace rose.
Red Hat Rose
Product name: Red Hat Rose
Category: Flowering shrubs -> Red Hat Rose
Product Introduction: Red Hat Rose, scientific name: Rosa chinensis Jacq
Scientific name: Rosa chinensis Jacq
Family and genus: Rosaceae
Climbing rose
Distribution: Native to Hubei, Sichuan, Yunnan, Hunan, Jiangsu, Guangdong and other provinces; now commonly cultivated in various places, with the original species and the ever-blooming red rose (Yueyuehong) being especially numerous. The original species and most varieties were introduced abroad as early as the early 18th century and became important original material for modern rose cross-breeding.
Morphological characteristics: Evergreen or semi-evergreen upright shrub, usually with hooked prickles. Leaflets 3-5 cm, broadly ovate to ovate-elliptic, 2.5-6 cm long, apex pointed, margin sharply serrate, glabrous on both sides, glossy on the surface; petiole and rachis scattered with prickles and short glandular hairs; stipules mostly adnate to the petiole, margin with glandular cilia; flowers often several in clusters, rarely solitary, about 5 cm in diameter, deep red, pink, to nearly white, slightly fragrant; sepals often pinnately lobed, margin glandular-hairy; pedicels mostly slender, glandular-hairy. Fruit ovoid to spherical, 1.5-2 cm long, red. Flowering period late April to October; fruit ripening period September to November.
Variety evolution
Breeding and variety evolution: The process of rose breeding and variety evolution is divided into three independent periods. In these three periods, the breeding methods are relatively different, but the theme of breeding, namely genetic change, is common to all. The three periods are divided as follows:
1. Early period (prehistoric to 1875)
2. Modern period (1875-1967)
3. Contemporary period (1967 to present)
The first period lasted about 5,000 years. By 1875, Mendel had published his famous laws of hybrid inheritance, and people's rose breeding also developed into directed cross-breeding. From that time on, most rose breeders considered breeding issues from the perspective of Mendelian inheritance or qualitative inheritance, while quantitative inheritance or weighted inheritance behavior in breeding was still little known or rarely applied at that time.
The outline of rose breeding in the first period is as follows:
1. Numerous rose species were collected and all planted together.
2. Only very few species contributed to rose breeding in the second period.
3. Intraspecific hybridization was a naturally occurring process.
4. New varieties came only from natural pollination.
5. Rose breeding work was concentrated in Western Europe and the United States.
6. The natural evolutionary trend was from diploid to tetraploid.
7. A primitive, enormous gene pool was formed.
8. Domestication reduced genetic resources.
9. Rose varieties before 1875 were inferred.
The second period began with the application of directed techniques and ended in 1967. From 1967 onward, molecular biology techniques began to be applied in roses. This period lasted 90 years.
The third period, beginning in 1967, has already gone through more than 30 years.
The beginning of rose breeding: Early gardening people selected superior types from wild roses and planted them together. As early as a very early prehistoric period, several rose species or several domesticated varieties among them were cultivated in China, Persia, Mesopotamia, Egypt, Greece and Italy, far earlier than the first year of the Common Era. In ancient horticulture, it is unclear whether roses were propagated by seed or asexually, but over more than 5,000 years, a large number of new varieties appeared through sowing seeds obtained from natural pollination.
The domestication of varieties and the production of intraspecific hybrid crosses was a long process; some undesirable primitive types were discarded, asexual propagation techniques were developed, and the progress of domestication accelerated. Through introduction by travelers and variety replacement, horticulturists obtained new genetic resources (any domesticated species has very little genetic change). Early breeders knew that planting one variety together with other varieties had a great influence on the offspring, and they also retained quite a lot of records on female parents and the production of new varieties, enabling us to confirm the evolutionary process of some varieties. However, breeders at that time still did not understand that the characteristics of the male parent would be passed on to the next generation through pollination. At that time, some diploid varieties also evolved into tetraploid varieties. Almost all major modern rose varieties are tetraploid. It is worth noting that within some continuously blooming varieties, vitality increases with the increase in ploidy. If this knowledge had been understood earlier, it might have stimulated breeders of that period to take an interest in directionally breeding new tetraploid varieties from diploids.
The rose native to China played a more important role in the breeding of new Western European rose varieties than any other rose species. It brought to new varieties continuous blooming and bushy growth that had been unknown until then. Multiflora rose is also a very important parent, bringing the umbel inflorescence characteristic to roses.
In the second period, research in biomolecules achieved unprecedented development. However, there was not much scientific research on roses. This situation can be seen from the past two journals, Plant Breeding and Horticultural Abstracts: among the thousands of documents in them each year, very few articles were about roses. Scientific research work on roses was mainly concentrated on taxonomic cytology, physiology, morphology, growing conditions, variety and rootstock research. The goals of breeding research lay in trait inheritance, simplification of cross-breeding procedures, and increasing the rates of direct and indirect selection. Research on low-energy-consumption and disease- and pest-resistant varieties was relatively scarce and lagged far behind that of fruit trees. For example, almost all breeding work was confined to universities or research institutes.
In the second period, there were two major discoveries. First, the breeding of continuously blooming, large-flowered varieties, which was achieved by Pernet in 1900. It marked the first success in directed interspecific cross-breeding of roses.
The second major achievement was in 1920, the breeding of the old dwarf compact variety "pompon de paris." This new type was rediscovered in Switzerland and is now named R. roulettii Corre von; it is the origin of some modern miniature roses.
In the early part of the second period, people discovered a large number of gene types in roses. Faced with numerous genetic resources, breeders of the second period seized the opportunity with Red Hat Rose, the Red Hat Rose base. Some parents were selected and retained, while others were discarded. Cross-breeding techniques were further developed, and indoor cross-breeding began. Many different original parents could be crossed with one another, and as a result, the originally clear boundaries between different species disappeared.
In the 1930s, roses were divided into greenhouse roses and open-field roses. Encouraged by the demand for the two types of varieties, breeders began to select and breed types suitable for their respective specific environments. Today, breeders mainly focus on the first type, because the quality of greenhouse varieties is 3-5 times that of open-field varieties, making greenhouse varieties particularly eye-catching. Because there have always still been very abundant genetic resources among varieties, breeders have been quite successful in breeding work for the two types. Gradually, some types suitable for greenhouse production were bred, including some small-flowered, medium-flowered and large-flowered varieties.
Generally speaking, there is no difference in method between the selection and breeding of greenhouse roses and open-field roses. When it comes to methods or breeding procedures, breeders mostly use negative methods, selecting their seedlings. In the selection process, about 99% of seedlings are eliminated. This method of strict selection from tens of thousands of seedlings each year lasted nearly 100 years, which inevitably led to serious loss of genes. Worse still, almost every breeder selected the same traits, and therefore applied the same selection standards.
Differences from roses (meiguī)
The stems of meiguī are tall and long, the thorns are mostly straight, the flowers are small, the flower color is single, and the flowering period is short. In contrast, rose branches are upright, the flower colors are rich, and the fragrance is present. The leaflets of meiguī are also 5-9 in number, but the underside of the leaf is wrinkled, the leaf back is whitish with small prickles, and the whole leaf is also relatively thick with sunken veins. Rose stems are low and short, the prickles are large, and each node roughly has 3 or 4 hooks; the flowers are large, the flower colors are rich, the scent is faint or absent, and the leaflets are generally 3-5 in number, with flat and smooth blades.
The role and uses of roses: Influence on the home environment
1. A single rose plant in the home gives you a home full of poetry. Different types of roses have different flower meanings. For example, the flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of pink roses: first love, elegance, nobility, gratitude; the flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of red roses: pure love, passionate love, chastity, courage; the flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of white roses: respect, loftiness, purity; the flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of orange-yellow roses: full of youthful spirit, beauty; the flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of green-white roses: innocence, frugality or a pure heart; the flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of black roses: individuality and creativity; the flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of blue-purple roses: preciousness, cherishing. Such an interesting flower, once planted, gives your whole home a new face.
2. The dark appearance makes the owner more energetic. Usually, dark-colored things give people a visual impact. Imagine if, when you come home, facing four walls that are all white and seeing furniture that is all light-colored, it is very lifeless. If you suddenly see a flourishing rose beside the television, the whole person will certainly immediately become energetic, because the visual sense receives a sudden change. Once a person is in high spirits, life also especially becomes full of vitality, and the feeling is particularly good.
3. The role of greening the home is also self-evident. Roses are evergreen or deciduous shrubs, with green branchlets, scattered prickles, and some are almost thornless, with serrate leaf margins, glabrous on both sides, smooth, and stipules adnate to the petiole. Flowers are borne at the top of branches, often clustered, rarely solitary, with very many flower colors. There are countless varieties, mostly double-flowered, and some single-flowered. The flowers have a slight fragrance. The fleshy rose hips turn red-yellow when mature, splitting open at the top; the "seeds" are achenes, chestnut brown. Such a beautiful rose continuously absorbs components in the air that are unfavorable to human life and releases oxygen beneficial to the human body, so the greening effect is achieved without notice.
Feng shui role
First, planting roses in one's own garden can make family members become refreshed and energetic. Roses are evergreen or deciduous shrubs, with green branchlets, scattered prickles, and some are almost thornless, with serrate leaf margins, glabrous on both sides, smooth, and stipules adnate to the petiole. Flowers are borne at the top of branches, often clustered, rarely solitary, with very many flower colors. There are countless varieties, mostly double-flowered, and some single-flowered. The flowers have a slight fragrance. The fleshy rose hips turn red-yellow when mature, splitting open at the top; the "seeds" are achenes, chestnut brown. Its bright red appearance makes people become energetic. At the same time, it should be noted that the rose is a relatively toxic plant, so we cannot plant it in places relatively close to us, such as the living room and bedroom, and when planting it in the garden we also cannot plant too many, because its fragrance is toxic.
Then, planting several roses in the backyard of the home makes the family's life happier and happier. The flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of pink roses: first love, elegance, nobility, gratitude; the flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of red roses: pure love, passionate love, chastity, courage; the flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of white roses: respect, loftiness, purity; the flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of orange-yellow roses: full of youthful spirit, beauty; the flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of green-white roses: innocence, frugality or a pure heart; the flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of black roses: individuality and creativity; the flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of blue-purple roses: preciousness, cherishing. The symbolic meaning of roses is very obvious. If a family lives together every day and looks at roses from afar, associating them with the meanings they represent, and thereby cherishing every day of living with family, happiness begins right there, and this home where they live together also becomes a home of good feng shui.
Landscape uses of roses: landscape greening
In landscape greening, roses have indispensable value. Among flowers, roses are the most frequently used in northern and southern gardens. Roses are the main ornamental flowers in spring; their flowering period is long, their ornamental value is high, and their price is low, so they are loved by gardens in various places.
"Linking" role
Because of their climbing growth characteristic, roses are mainly used for vertical greening and have a unique role in garden street scenes and beautiful flower environments. If they can form pleasing
purposeful passages and flower columns, made into various arch shapes, grid shapes, and frame-style supports for roses to climb on, and then through appropriate pruning and shaping, they can decorate buildings and become an ingenious "link" connecting buildings and gardens.
Environmental protection role
They can be made into continuous flower hedges, flower screens, and flower walls, used in government offices, schools, residential communities, urban squares and other places. They can not only purify the air and beautify the environment, but also greatly reduce noise pollution in surrounding areas and alleviate the greenhouse effect of cities in the hot summer.
Medicinal dietary or medicinal value of roses
The medical information and health dietary information on Huhua Network are for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. For any health problem, consult professional medical staff, and for the treatment of any disease, please follow doctor's orders.
Ultimate flower-protecting task: Love yourself, start from reality, and strictly follow doctor's orders. For illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope, face it bravely, use love to warm the silent world, and use your heart to care for the flower field within.
Medicinal value
[Aliases] Yueyuehong, Sijihua, Shengchun, Douxuehong, Yueguihong, Yueguihua, Yueji, Yueyuekai, Changchunhua, Yueyuehua. Yanxuehong, ChouChunhua, Yuejigang, Yueguanghua, Tongchuizi, Sijichun, Shouke.
[Definition]: The dried flowers of the Rosaceae plant rose.
[Collection]: Can be harvested throughout the year; picked when the flowers are slightly open.
[Nature, flavor and meridian entry]: Sweet, bland, slightly bitter, neutral. Enters the liver meridian.
[Efficacy]: Activates blood and regulates menstruation, soothes the liver and relieves depression, reduces swelling and detoxifies.
[Indications]: 1. Liver depression and blood stagnation, irregular menstruation, dysmenorrhea, amenorrhea and distending pain in the chest and hypochondrium; 2. Traumatic injury, stasis swelling and pain, carbuncle and gangrene swelling and toxin, scrofula. [11]
[Trade name] Yuejihua. The best quality is flowers that are in bud or just opened, complete, dry, bright in color, and clear in fragrance.
[Prescription names] Yueji, Yuejihua, Yueyuehong, Sijihua.
Rose is not only an ornamental flower with a long flowering period and fragrant, colorful blooms, but also a good gynecological medicine. Traditional Chinese medicine believes that rose is sweet in flavor and warm in nature, enters the liver meridian, and has the effects of activating blood and regulating menstruation, reducing swelling and detoxifying. Because rose has obvious effects in removing stasis, promoting qi flow, and relieving pain, it is often used to treat conditions such as irregular menstruation and dysmenorrhea.
Clinical reports show that when women experience amenorrhea or scanty, pale and low-volume menstruation, lower abdominal pain, accompanied by poor spirits and dry bound stool, or when the above symptoms appear during the menstrual period, treatment with Shengchun Tang has good results. The medicinal composition of Shengchun Tang is: rose 10 g, angelica 10 g, salvia 10 g, white peony 10 g, with an appropriate amount of brown sugar, decocted in clear water and taken. The soup tastes sweet and fragrant, with no difficulty in swallowing. Take 3 doses 3-5 days before each menstrual period, each time adding one egg to cook together; its effect is reliable. It truly deserves to be a wonderful formula for regulating menstruation, regulating qi, and activating blood.
The combination of rose and bitter orange flower is even more of a good formula for treating menstrual diseases caused by disharmony of qi and blood. Use 15 g each of rose and bitter orange flower, decoct in water and take. Rose emphasizes activating blood, while bitter orange flower tends toward promoting qi flow. The two medicines together, one qi and one blood, regulate both qi and blood, and their effects of regulating menstruation and activating blood, promoting qi and relieving pain are very good. Mainly indicated for women with liver qi discomfort, disharmony of qi and blood, and obstructed and unsmooth meridians and vessels, leading to irregular menstruation, chest and abdominal pain, poor appetite, or even nausea, vomiting and other symptoms.
For common gynecological diseases, folk single prescriptions and proven prescriptions using rose are also very effective. For example: steep 20 g of fresh rose in boiling water and drink, which can treat irregular menstruation or abdominal pain during menstruation; 30 g of rose root, 15 g each of cockscomb and motherwort, decoct in water and cook eggs to eat, which can treat dysmenorrhea;
For excessive menstruation and excessive vaginal discharge, use 15 g of rose (or root) decocted in water and taken, or stewed with pork; decoct 10 g of rose and 12 g of jujube together, and after the soup is ready add an appropriate amount of honey and take it. This formula is fragrant and sweet, not like medicine, and is very effective for menstrual tidal fever. In addition, women often steep rose petals in water as tea, or add them to other beauty teas for drinking, which can also activate blood and beautify the face, helping people stay youthful.
Cultural background of roses
One of China's top ten famous flowers. Roses are known as the "queen of flowers," and they also have an unyielding spirit, with a fragrance that carries far.
Traditional cultural status
Roses occupy a weak position in traditional Chinese culture, but new archaeological discoveries show that the rose was the totem plant of the northern lineage of the ancestors of the Chinese people, equivalent to the legendary Yellow Emperor's tribal group.
Rose is now the city flower of Beijing and other cities.
Rose Flower Fair, May 1 to May 20. Every year during this time, Zhengzhou holds a rose flower fair. Not only do the organizers present roses of various colors, but city residents can also bring out famous varieties they have cultivated at home for many years. At that time the whole city is full of flowers, and beautiful fresh flowers are everywhere in parks and streets and alleys, with a rich fragrance.
Legend
Long ago, at the foot of Shennong Mountain there was a family surnamed Gao, who had a daughter named Yulan. She was just eighteen, gentle and quiet, and many young noblemen and princes came to propose marriage, but Yulan did not agree. Because she had an elderly mother who coughed and spat blood all year round, and despite many medicines, nothing worked at all. So Yulan, without telling her parents, posted a notice seeking medical treatment: "Whoever cures my mother's illness, I, your daughter, am willing to marry him." A young man named Zhongyuan posted his response and offered a formula. After Yulan's mother took his medicine, she indeed recovered. Yulan did not break the agreement and married Zhongyuan. On their wedding night, Yulan asked what miraculous formula was so effective, and Zhongyuan replied: "Rose, rose, a good remedy for clearing cough. This is a secret family formula: rock sugar stewed together with rose is a miraculous decoction for clearing cough and stopping bleeding, specially treating women's diseases." Yulan nodded and remembered it in her heart.
National flower and city flower of roses
It is the city flower of Fuyang, the city flower of Beijing, the city flower of Tianjin, the city flower of Shijiazhuang, the city flower of Nanyang, the city flower of Changzhou, the city flower of Huai'an, and the city flower of Liuzhou.
National flower of Iraq, the United States, and Luxembourg.
Flower meaning of roses
Flower meaning of roses: waiting for hope with hope, happiness, glory, and beauty ever renewed. [13]
The flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of pink roses: first love, elegance, nobility, gratitude.
The flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of red roses: pure love, passionate love, chastity, courage.
The flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of white roses: respect, loftiness, purity.
The flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of orange-yellow roses: full of youthful spirit, beauty.
The flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of green-white roses: innocence, frugality or a pure heart.
The flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of black roses: individuality and creativity.
The flower meaning and symbolic representative significance of blue-purple roses: preciousness, cherishing.
Rose pictures