Three symptoms of root rot in roses (Chinese rose) caused by overwatering that must be dealt with promptly

When it comes to the flowers we see most commonly, roses (Chinese rose) must rank near the top, because the number planted in our country is truly enormous - whether in cities or around villages, you can see their lovely presence. Moreover, this plant has a great many varieties, which we can tell just from their flowers: some blooms are very large, others rather small; some open in clusters, while others bear only one or two lonely blossoms; and their colors differ as well.

In addition, this plant is fairly easy to grow - even in untended wild areas, it can grow very well. But no matter how tough a plant is, it can still suffer from certain ailments, and roses are certainly no exception. The most common problem is root rot. So what are its signs?

1. The edges of the leaves gradually begin to shrivel

Generally speaking, if you water it heavily every day, this plant will very easily develop root rot. But since its roots are underground and completely invisible, we can only look for signs on its stems and leaves. If the root rot is not yet very serious, then you will see the edges of some leaves begin to gradually shrivel.

2. New leaves curl up together

And if the root rot has lasted a little longer, the newly grown leaves on the plant will not spread out flat like normal leaves, but instead curl up together, looking very unhealthy.

3. Old leaves begin to turn yellow

In more serious cases, the older leaves on the plant also begin to turn yellow, and at this point it is very difficult to save it.

All of these signs indicate that the plant's roots have begun to rot.

Symptoms and integrated control of gray mold (Botrytis blight) in flowers

Planting methods for several common flowers

Planting methods for several common flowers
1. Iris
Iris is a perennial herb of the genus Iris in the family Iridaceae. It is distributed in almost all provinces and regions across the country, and also in Japan.
The rhizome is relatively slender and weak, entering the soil shallowly, growing horizontally, and yellow-brown. The leaves are sword-shaped, dark green and glossy. The flower stalk rises above the leaves, and the flowers are numerous, arranged in a terminal, long and sparse raceme. The style has 3 branches, dark purple, enlarged into petal-like forms, rolled back and covering the anthers. The flowering period is April to May. The common flower colors of this species are light purple or light blue. It is suitable for naturalistic planting, and also suitable for flower borders, flower beds and as cut flower material.
Ecological habits: It prefers damp and shaded places, and has relatively strong adaptability and cold resistance. When cultivated outdoors over winter in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, the aboveground stems and leaves do not completely wither. It requires acidic soil and grows well in moist, fertile soil and a sunny environment.
Propagation: Mainly by division, generally once every 2-3 years. Division after flowering or in autumn is best, as it favors full plant growth and flower bud differentiation. Dig out the rhizome and divide it, and replant each section with 1-2 buds. For seed propagation, seeds germinate 4-6 weeks after sowing, and it takes 2-3 years after sowing to flower.
Cultivation and pests and diseases: Sufficient base fertilizer should be applied before planting, and after planting the rhizome should be pressed firm; shallow planting is suitable, and deep planting is not. In early spring, remove residual leaves to favor new bud sprouting. During the vigorous growth period, water sufficiently, and fertilize 1-2 times a month to make flowers abundant and leaves lush. During flowering, keep the soil moist, but avoid waterlogging; after flowering, apply one topdressing, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which is beneficial to rhizome development; after the flowers fade and the rhizome enters dormancy, keep the soil dry. Common leaf blight and bacterial soft rot are mostly caused by larvae of the noctuid moth; spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution for control. During the growing period, slugs and snails are also harmful; spray with 3% lime water in the evening.
Planting some flowers and trees around farmhouses both improves the environment and beautifies life. With clever arrangement, the courtyard becomes a feast for the eyes.
In the courtyard, planting one or two osmanthus or wintersweet trees alone or in pairs is a traditional Chinese garden arrangement; in damp shaded areas by walls, plant shade-tolerant flowers such as iris (commonly known as butterfly flower) and begonia, which grow well without elaborate management; for potted flowers on the balcony, small aglaia and roses are more suitable; on the sunny side, sun-loving flowers such as chrysanthemums and salvia can be planted, and sufficient sunlight will help them grow better; cacti and golden-edged lotus on the roof still grow well even without long-term care; where shade is needed, you might as well plant a few grapevines, morning glories or Boston ivy by the window or hedge; even indoors, you can place a few shade-tolerant asparagus ferns and orchids on a desk or tea table, making the farm courtyard colorful and full of vitality!
2. Cineraria
Cineraria is a perennial herbaceous plant of the Asteraceae family, densely covered with soft hairs throughout. The leaves are in whorls of three, triangular, and resemble cucumber leaves, hence the name cineraria. Its flower colors are brilliant and rich, including the blue flowers rarely seen indoors; and its flowering period is long, with about 6 months of blooming time, making it an ideal potted flower for festivals such as New Year's Day, Spring Festival and "May 1" Labor Day, and a representative flower of winter and spring. But it is not easy to cultivate cineraria potted flowers with good plant shape, beautiful leaf color and long flowering, and the following key technical measures in cineraria cultivation must be mastered.
Sowing time: Generally mid-August is chosen. Cineraria prefers cool climates and cannot tolerate hot high temperatures; the moderate growth temperature is 15°C-20°C. The sowing box should be placed under a shade awning or under tree shade; if sowing in beds, a shade awning must be built above the bed soil to reduce solar radiant heat.
Seedling moisture control: This is mainly done by spraying water mist to lower the temperature of the seedbed and supply water to the seedlings. The principle of spraying is that moistening is enough; the seedbed soil must not be too dry, nor too wet. If too dry, wilted seedlings are difficult to recover; if too wet, plus seedlings being in a high-temperature period, they are very prone to damping-off and poor root establishment, resulting in low seedling survival rate.
Preparation of culture soil: Cineraria prefers sandy soil rich in humus and well drained, with a pH of 6.5-7.5 being relatively suitable. When preparing culture soil for sowing, note that unpolluted leaf mold or wood ash, pure loess and fine sand should be mixed in a ratio of 3:1:1 and then sieved, and no fertilizer should be added, as culture soil prepared this way is beneficial to seed germination and growth. Culture soil that is too clayey cannot withstand drying; once it cracks slightly, it will break the fine roots of the seedlings, causing seedling death and reducing the survival rate. The culture soil after pricking out can be the same as that used for sowing, to harden the seedlings. When potting, evenly place bean cake, bone meal or superphosphate into the culture soil as base fertilizer, or use barnyard manure, burnt soil ash, garden soil, rapeseed cake and fine sand in a ratio of 3:2:2:1:1 to prepare culture soil, to ensure a sufficient supply of nutrients for the plants. Barnyard manure must be composted, decomposed and sun-dried; rapeseed cake must be crushed, fully stirred and mixed, and sieved before being used as culture soil for final planting.
Pay attention to temperature control: Cineraria prefers cool climates, avoids cold in winter and high temperatures in summer. Therefore, in winter it should be cultivated in a greenhouse, generally maintaining above 10°C, and often keeping the room temperature at about 15°C for good growth; in summer, the sowing box should be placed under a shade awning, or a sowing bed should be prepared under the shade awning, and watering before 10:00 a.m. or after 5:00 p.m. is more suitable. Never water at noon, so that the seedlings can smoothly pass through the high-temperature period.
Pay attention to humidity control in winter: Cineraria has relatively high humidity requirements for good growth. How to make humidity moderate in winter is the key to successfully cultivating cineraria. If too dry, the leaves of cineraria are often in a wilted state, which is unfavorable to leaf growth, easily turns leaves yellow, and easily causes red spider mites and aphids. If watered too much and indoor humidity is too high, roots, main stems and leaves easily rot, and aphids are also easily produced; if the room temperature is too high and ventilation is poor, diseases are easily produced.
3. Corn poppy
Corn poppy, also known as lichunhua or manyuanchun, is an annual or biennial herbaceous flower of the genus Papaver in the family Papaveraceae. The plant height is 30 to 90 cm. The stem is slender, and the branches are thin and weak. The leaves are alternate, irregularly pinnately lobed, with serrated edges; the whole plant has sparse hairs and milky sap. Flowers are solitary at the top of branches, with long pedicels; the buds droop and then straighten when the flowers open. Most horticultural cultivars are double-flowered. The flower colors of corn poppy are extremely rich and brilliant, including vermilion, ink purple, bright pink, snow white, tricolor, etc. The flowers last only 1 to 2 days before falling, but the buds are numerous and open successively. The flowering period is May to June. The capsule is spherical, the fruit ripening period is July, and the seeds are very small.
Corn poppy is native to Asia and Europe, and is also distributed in North America. It is cold-resistant and suitable for sufficient light and a cool climate in spring; it cannot tolerate intense heat and dampness. It is usually sown in rows in flowerbed plots in early winter. It has no strict requirements for soil, but loose, fertile sandy loam is best. The row spacing is 20 cm. After sowing, cover with plastic film, or sow in early spring when the ground surface has just thawed, and gradually remove the film after seedlings emerge. Corn poppy is a taprooted flower; the roots are fine, deep and long, with few lateral roots. At the seedling stage, root length often exceeds plant height by about 1 time, so it cannot be transplanted. Forced transplanting also gives a very low survival rate. When row sowing produces relatively dense seedlings, thin them two or three times at intervals, maintaining a plant spacing of 10 to 15 cm. Corn poppy has low requirements for water and fertilizer, but avoids heavy water and heavy fertilizer and soil waterlogging.
Corn poppy is excellent material for flower beds, flower borders and flower strips. It can also be sown in pots in a greenhouse or cold frame in January, and moved out in late April for use as "May 1" holiday flowers. For home flower growing, it can be cultivated on a south-facing enclosed balcony. In January, use a flower pot with an inner diameter of 20 cm, fill it more than half full with loose old potting soil, press level, scatter 20 to 30 seeds, cover with soil just enough that the seeds are not visible, and after sowing, soak the pot to water it. When seedlings emerge, thin them several times, removing the weak and keeping the strong, and finally keep 3 to 5 plants for final planting. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, gradually fill in planting soil up to the rim to prevent the slender stems from lodging. Keep sufficient light and fresh ambient air, with nighttime temperatures not below 5°C, avoid drought and waterlogging, and they can bloom in March, until the "May 1" holiday.
Corn poppy and opium poppy belong to the same family, not only resembling each other in appearance but also having the same habits. The difference is that opium poppy has a larger plant form and fruit and is covered all over, while corn poppy is smaller and covered with sparse hairs all over. However, corn poppy is suspected by some people of being the drug opium. In fact, although corn poppy contains milky sap in its body, its components do not contain laudanum. Its flowers can be made into a gargle with antitussive effects, and its milky sap has analgesic and antidiarrheal effects. In the warm spring sun, patches of corn poppy in courtyards and green spaces compete in beauty, like clusters of red clouds and also like squares of silk handkerchiefs; when the breeze blows, both people and flowers feel as if floating.
4. Calceolaria
Calceolaria is an herbaceous plant of the genus Calceolaria in the family Scrophulariaceae. The flower colors include yellow, purple, red, cream, orange-red, dark brown, etc., and the flowers are adorned with colored spots and markings, very lovely, and often used as indoor decorative arrangements. It blooms from December to February of the following year, and the flowering period under greenhouse cultivation is March to April.
Calceolaria is native to the Mexico and Chile region. It prefers cool and moist conditions, and can grow indoors in winter at 3°C to 6°C. During the growing period, relatively high air humidity must be maintained, and attention should be paid to ventilation; sufficient light is beneficial to plant flowering.
Ventilation and shading. Calceolaria prefers cool conditions, with an optimum growth temperature of about 10°C. If the stems and leaves develop luxuriantly during the growing period, and the potting soil is too wet plus hot and stuffy, the stems of the plant will rot and the leaves will decay. To lower the temperature, shading measures are often taken at noon to create a ventilated and cool environment. Especially after flowering in spring until the seeds mature from May to June, ventilation work must be done even better, and shading at noon helps the seeds develop and mature.
Watering and fertilizing. Calceolaria prefers a warm and moist environment, but avoids overly wet potting soil and excessive watering during flowering. Generally, water only when the potting soil is dry. If indoors in a greenhouse, frequently spraying water to increase air humidity is even better. Watering must not directly hit the plant; if water accumulates on the leaves and buds, it easily causes rot. During the pre-flowering growing season, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 10 days (diluted 10 times); in the early flowering stage, increase the application of phosphorus-based fertilizer. When fertilizing, do not let fertilizer water contaminate the leaves, so as to avoid rotting hearts and leaves.
Propagation techniques. Calceolaria is generally propagated by sowing; when seeds are lacking, division can also be used. Sowing should be done after the high-temperature period when the weather turns cool, that is, from August to September, because seedlings are prone to damping-off and rot during high temperatures. Use leaf mold or peat soil mixed with half sand, sieve and disinfect, then put it into a shallow pot, soak the pot to fill with water, and then sow. Calceolaria seeds are tiny, in the form of relatively coarse powder grains. When sowing, it is best to first fold thick paper into a small triangular funnel, place the seeds in it, then hold the lower part of the small funnel with the right hand so that the seeds fall evenly into the sowing pot. Do not sow too densely, otherwise the seedlings will grow thin and weak after emergence. For covering soil, simply use a fine sieve to cover with a thin layer of fine soil (it does not matter if not covered). After sowing, cover the pot with glass to maintain humidity. Before seedling emergence, place it in a cool place with the temperature maintained at about 20°C, and seedlings can emerge in about 7 to 10 days. After emergence, remove the glass, thin the seedlings, and let them gradually receive sunlight, with the temperature lowered to about 15°C.
When the seedlings have 2 true leaves, they can be transplanted; when they grow 4 to 6 true leaves, they can be potted individually. For culture soil, mix 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part barnyard manure, 1 part sand and 6 parts garden soil for use, with a pH value of 6.5. From November to December, they can be potted in large pots for final planting.
5. Cockscomb
Cockscomb, also known as red cockscomb, cockscomb amaranth, etc., is named because its inflorescence is twisted and folded like a cockscomb. It is an annual herbaceous plant with a plant height of 30-50 cm. The stem is upright, and the upper part of the stem is flat, green or red. The leaves are alternate, ovate, ovate-lanceolate or lanceolate, gradually narrowed at the tip, entire, with stalks. The spike is terminal, and the flower axis is flat and fleshy, cockscomb-shaped, yellow, white or red-purple, with a velvety luster. The flowering period is July to October. The utricle is ovate, circumscissile, containing 4 seeds. The seeds are black and glossy, with a thousand-grain weight of 0.85 g. It is used for flower beds and flower borders, and can also be potted. It is also relatively good as a cut flower, and the vase life can reach more than 10 days.
Cockscomb has four types, namely hen-and-chickens cockscomb, common cockscomb, garden velvet cockscomb and pheasant-tail cockscomb. In addition, there are many varieties. Divided by plant height, there are dwarf types (20-30 cm), medium-stem types (40-60 cm) and tall-stem types (higher than 60 cm); divided by flowering period, there are early-flowering and late-flowering differences. The colors range from extremely pale yellow (nearly white) to golden yellow and brown yellow, and from jade red, rose red, orange red to purple red, and there are also compound colors such as sprinkled gold and erqiao mixed with yellow and red series.
Cockscomb is native to India. It prefers a hot and dry climate and fears waterlogging. It grows well in sunny, fertile sandy soil, avoids clayey soil, and grows poorly in barren, non-breathable soil with smaller inflorescences. It can reproduce by self-sowing.
Propagation by sowing. Sow in the open field seedbed in spring from March to April. When sowing, it is not suitable to cover with soil; after covering with grass, water to keep the soil moist. Remove the covering grass after germination. Transplant when 2 leaves have grown. When seedlings grow to 5-10 cm, plant out or pot them. No fertilizing is needed at the seedling stage, otherwise the side branches grow strongly and affect the development of the main branch. After the cockscomb forms, thin fertilizer can be applied to promote its growth. Seeds are prone to variation, so seed selection should be carefully carried out every year when saving seeds.
The flowering period of cockscomb can be regulated by controlling the sowing date. Generally, sowing can be carried out from March to June, and sowing is done according to flower use needs to meet the demand for holiday flowers.
Growth habits: It prefers a warm and dry climate, fears drought, likes sunlight, and cannot tolerate waterlogging, but has no strict requirements for soil. It can generally be planted in ordinary soil courtyards. It is a new way to develop courtyard economy at present; people of insight might as well give it a try.
Propagation and cultivation: Seed propagation method. Around Qingming, select a good plot, apply sufficient base fertilizer, plow fine and harrow evenly, level and make beds, evenly scatter the seeds on the bed surface, slightly cover the seeds, firm the soil and water thoroughly. Generally at a temperature of 15-20°C, seedlings can emerge in 10-15 days. For summer sowing after Mangzhong, sow with a row spacing of 30 cm. When seedlings are 6 cm tall, thin them with a plant spacing of 20 cm; the thinned seedlings can be transplanted to other fields, and after transplanting they must be watered. At the seedling stage, weeds must be removed and the soil loosened; when it is not too dry, water as little as possible. When seedlings are 30 cm tall, apply one topdressing. After the rows close, appropriately remove old leaves. When flowering and heading, if the weather is dry, water appropriately; in low-lying areas during the rainy season, strictly prevent waterlogging. After heading, the flower buds in the leaf axils of the lower part can be removed to concentrate nutrients on the growth of the top main spike.
Pest and disease control: If root rot occurs at the seedling stage, quicklime can be broadcast in the field. During the growing period, cotton bollworm is likely to occur; spraying the leaves with dimethoate or pyrethroid pesticides can provide control.
Harvesting and processing: Generally around White Dew, when the seeds gradually turn black and mature, the flower stalks can be cut off in time and placed in a ventilated place to dry. When drying, take them out early and bring them back late, and do not let them be exposed to night dew, so as to avoid deterioration and reduced medicinal efficacy. Store in bags.
6. Garden balsam
Garden balsam, also known as zhijiacao, tougucao, jinfenghua or sajinhua. Its origin is China and India, and it can be planted in flower pots or flower beds. Garden balsam is an annual or biennial herbaceous plant, about 25-35 cm tall. The flowers are white, pink, orange-red, copper-red, etc., and the flower types include single and double forms. It is a very beautiful plant.
The suitable temperature for garden balsam germination is 22°C-30°C. Sowing period: March to April or September to October
The suitable temperature for garden balsam growth is 15°C-32°C. Flowering period: May to July, December to February.
I. Before planting:
Flower growth is closely related to various factors in the natural environment, including temperature, light, water, growing medium and other factors. Temperature is the most important factor affecting flower growth. If air conditioning or heating is used indoors to regulate temperature, planting will not be affected by season, but after seedlings emerge, the plants must be placed by a sunny window to let them receive as much sufficient sunlight as possible.
II. When planting:
Good, now prepare to start sowing. Before sowing, please confirm once again: are the conditions required for seed germination and growth currently available?
III. Planting:
1. When planting, pay special attention that at most only a thin layer of soil can cover the surface of the flower seeds, 1-3 times the diameter of the flower seeds (be as accurate as possible; feeling is also important). If the seeds are buried too deep, it will make seed germination difficult.
2. Adjust the spray bottle to mist mode and spray an appropriate amount of water on them;
3. Cover the mouth of the flower pot with glass or plastic paper to reduce water evaporation;
4. Place the flower pot in a dark place away from light, and remember to open it for 15-20 minutes every day for ventilation;
5. Flower seeds generally germinate in about 10-15 days. Be patient while waiting for germination. Sometimes factors such as temperature changes will affect the seed germination time, so please wait patiently.
IV. Emergence:
1. The seeds have germinated! At this time, please wait until the first pair of leaves on the sprout unfolds symmetrically, then immediately remove the covering (glass plate, plastic paper), and place it in a sunny place, avoiding direct sunlight, paying attention to temperature changes, and do not water excessively.
2. When the first pair of cotyledons has fully unfolded and appears green, the time under direct sunlight needs to be gradually increased.
3. When the first pair of true leaves grows, it should be placed under all-day direct sunlight, and attention should be paid to the dryness of the growing medium, watering appropriately; when the second pair of true leaves grows, it shows that the most difficult stage of planting has passed. As long as temperature and moisture are well controlled, garden balsam will grow vigorously.
V. Light:
1. If the plant lacks light, excessive vegetative growth often occurs, making the plant slender, thin and weak, and prone to lodging. The light time should be increased.
2. Turn the flower pot frequently as much as possible, so that the branches and leaves of the plant receive sunlight from all angles and grow fully.
VI. Care:
1. When the seedlings grow to nearly one inch, keep the robust plants and "move house" for the rest - repot them.
2. When repotting, be careful not to damage the fine roots. When moving the seedling out, dig a pit of appropriate width and depth in the center of the flower pot, let its root system fully spread out, cover with growing medium, press lightly, and then water an appropriate amount.
VII. Watering:
1. During the emergence period, the soil needs to be kept moist. After emergence, it is better to keep it somewhat dry, with the surface soil dry and the interior still moist;
2. Water as much as possible in the morning, avoiding sunlight;
3. The water is best left to stand for 4-6 minutes first to dissipate the chlorine in tap water;
4. When watering, it is best to use a fine-holed pot, starting from a place far from the plant and gradually moving closer to the plant, watering more around the sides and less near the plant, and try not to splash onto the leaves and stems.;
7. Lily
Lily is a perennial root vegetable crop. Its main edible part is the bulb. Besides being used as a vegetable, its processed products are also widely used in medicine and health foods.
Ziyuan County has a long history of planting lilies, but due to long-term mixed varieties and extensive cultivation management, the unit yield is relatively low. To obtain better economic benefits from planting lilies, great effort must be put into cultivation.
1. Site selection: It is advisable to choose acidic sandy loam with sufficient light, deep soil layers, convenient drainage and irrigation, and a pH value of 5.7-6.3 for cultivation. The previous crop is best legumes or grasses. Crop rotation should be practiced, and continuous cropping should not be used.
2. Select good varieties: There are many lily varieties, mainly Longya lily, Yixing lily and Lanzhou lily. Ziyuan County mostly uses Longya lily, which has large bulbs, good quality, strong stress resistance, vigorous growth and high yield. It is generally propagated by small bulbs (single fruit weight 30-50 g). Lily bulbs easily carry diseases, so robust bulbs without open bottoms, disease spots or mechanical damage must be selected as seed bulbs, to ensure neat seedling emergence and less disease. Planted in the current year, they can be harvested the following year. If seed sources are insufficient, scale propagation can also be used, but it must be planted continuously for three years before harvest. Seeds are collected in July, stored in sand for after-ripening, and sown from late August to September.
3. Land preparation and sowing: Before planting, in August broadcast about 100 kg of lime per mu, deeply plow the soil two to three times, then apply 30-40 kg of potassium sulfate ternary compound fertilizer per mu, prepare the land and make beds with a bed surface width of about 1 m and a bed height of 20-30 cm, ensuring no waterlogging, then open furrows for planting. At the bottom of the furrow, apply decomposed chopped cattle pen manure, chicken manure, burnt soil ash, tung oil cake and other organic fertilizers at 1200-1500 kg per mu, cover with a thin layer of soil, then plant; the seed bulbs must not contact the organic fertilizer. If rapeseed cake is used, the lilies turn yellow and the export grade is low; if pig manure is applied, pests are likely to occur. The planting density is 30 x 20 cm, the seed rate per mu is 125-150 kg, and the harvest amount after one year of planting is 4-6 times the seed rate.
4. Pest and disease control:
Disease control: The main diseases of lily are damping-off and root rot. Before planting, first soak the seeds in 300 times formalin for 5 minutes, then dry and sow. After emergence, use 80% mancozeb at 1000 times, or 25% carbendazim at 1000 times, or 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 600-800 times, rotating once every 7-10 days, and spraying continuously 2-3 times.
Pest control: For underground pests, use 50% phoxim emulsion or 50% dexon mixed into poisonous soil and evenly scatter it into the planting furrows; for aphids, spray with 10% imidacloprid wettable powder at 2000 times, once every 7-10 days.
5. Timely harvest: It can be harvested every year from July to August. Harvesting on a sunny day one week before Start of Autumn gives the highest yield; harvesting after the stems and leaves wither in late autumn is also possible, but the dry slice rate is low and the benefit is not as good as the former. At harvest, large bulbs can be sold fresh or processed into dry slices, and small bulbs below 50 g are all kept as seed.
8. Bleeding heart
Bleeding heart is native to Hebei and Northeast China. It prefers a semi-shaded environment with sufficient scattered light and is relatively cold-resistant, but fears the intense heat of midsummer and strong direct sunlight. Therefore, it is suitable to place it under large trees in the courtyard, under grape trellises, on the shaded side of tall buildings, or on east- or north-facing balconies. During the summer dormant period, place it in a well-ventilated shaded place, not exposed to direct light, and often sprinkle water on the nearby ground to increase air humidity and lower temperature.
Ecological habits:
Cold-resistant, avoids high temperatures, prefers a shaded and moist environment and loose, fertile neutral soil; it grows poorly in sandy soil and clay soil. By midsummer the stems and leaves turn yellow and it enters dormancy. Dormant in hot summer. It cannot tolerate drought and prefers moist, well-drained fertile sandy loam. It grows poorly in sandy soil and clay soil. Avoid direct sunlight. The flowering period is April to June. It sprouts relatively early in spring, and after flowering until summer the stems and leaves gradually turn yellow and it becomes dormant.
Bleeding heart propagation:
For propagation and cultivation, division, cuttings, and sowing can all be used.
Division propagation method for bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis).
It is best done in early spring in February after the buds begin to swell and before new leaves emerge. When dividing, dig up the entire plant, shake off the soil from the roots, then use a knife to cut off the young rhizomes around the main rhizome together with their roots, dividing them into 2-3 plants, and plant them in a previously prepared seedbed, covering with 2-3 cm of soil, watering thoroughly, and placing in a shaded area. Division can also be done after the plant enters dormancy in late autumn, in a similar way to early spring division. Timing is important; if the new leaves of the old plant have already unfolded before division, the root system is easily damaged and the survival rate is low. Division can also be done during deep autumn dormancy, but the survival rate is not high. Division can only be done once every 2 or 3 years, not every year.
The division method is commonly used. Before sprouting in March, dig out the underground part, remove old and rotten roots, separate the rhizomes along their natural segments, each piece with 3-5 buds, and replant. They can bloom as early as May of the same year. In spring, break off the basal shoots for cuttings, and they will root in about 1 month. For seed propagation, seedlings need 3 years of cultivation before they can bloom.
Cutting propagation method for bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis).
Cutting substrate: Choose loose, well-drained, humus-rich sandy loam as the substrate, with a pH between 5 and 6. Before use, it is best to sterilize with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution.
Cutting time: Conducted from June to July each year. At this time there is more rain, and the ground temperature and air temperature are also more suitable, resulting in a high cutting survival rate.
For softwood cuttings, in June and July, after all flowers have faded, select branches that are full and well-developed with relatively plump axillary buds, cut off the inflorescence, and after 7-10 days cut the healthy lower branches with axillary buds into sections of 2 to 3 nodes each, with each section about 10-15 cm long, keep one leaf at the upper end and thin out some small leaves, insert 2 nodes into the soil, with the upper node bearing small leaves exposed above the soil surface, at a spacing of 10 cm x 10 cm.
Dip the cut end in sulfur powder or plant ash, insert into plain soil, place in a shaded area after watering, frequently mist the cuttings, but restrict watering of the pot soil, keeping it slightly moist but not dry. Roots will form in about a month. The following spring, plant into pots with the soil ball. With good management, they can bloom the same year. The insertion depth is 1/3 of the branch length. The cutting bed can use sandy loam or sandy soil, but fertilization must be avoided. After cutting, water thoroughly and shade. Generally, roots will form in 30-40 days.
Management after cutting:
After cutting, water thoroughly once with a fine-rose watering can so that the cuttings come into close contact with the substrate. Set up a low arch tunnel over the bed, cover with plastic film, and put on straw curtains to create a semi-shaded environment. Keep the temperature at around 25°C. When too high, ventilate appropriately to cool down, and always keep the bed soil moist. Roots will form in about 40 days. Gradually remove the film and straw curtains, and the following spring they can be transplanted and planted out, blooming the same year.
Plant in March-April; cuttings are mostly taken in late March, and sowing is mostly done in autumn. Field-planted bleeding heart needs covering for insulation in winter. Potted plants are mostly divided or repotted around late March. In hot summer, place in semi-shade, and during the rainy season, take care to prevent water accumulation in the pot.
Alternatively, cut the rhizomes into sections for propagation. In autumn, dig out the underground part, separate the rhizomes along their natural segments, and plant them separately. The rhizomes can also be cut into sections, each with a bud eye, inserted into sand, and after rooting, planted in pots. For seed propagation, seedlings need 3 years of cultivation before they can bloom.
Seed propagation method for bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis).
When the seeds mature in late June, harvest them promptly. Cut off the inflorescences and dry them in the sun, winnow the seeds clean, and immediately broadcast them in the seedbed, water thoroughly, and seedlings will emerge in about 15 days. Cover in winter to keep the seedlings alive through the winter. The following spring, plant out the robust young seedlings at a spacing of 30-50 cm. Seedlings from sowing need 3 years to bloom.
Home gardeners generally do not use this; it is used by landscaping departments for mass propagation or for breeding new hybrid varieties.
Cultivation of bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis)
For field planting, choose a site with higher elevation. Before planting, deeply plow the bed soil and apply decomposed organic fertilizer. During the growing season, topdress in conjunction with irrigation. In summer when temperatures are high, the stems and leaves turn yellow and the plant enters dormancy; the withered branches can be cut off. Water thoroughly once before the Frost Descent period to help protect against cold. For pot cultivation, use a light potting mix with added fertilizer, water thoroughly after planting, and place in a sunny spot for care. During the growing season, provide ample fertilizer and water. Move the plant as little as possible during the flowering period to avoid flower drop that would affect ornamental value. After flowering, if seeds are not needed, promptly cut off the faded flowers.
Management of bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis)
Bleeding heart is cold-hardy and shade-loving, not tolerant of high temperatures. It grows well when planted in humus-rich loam. Generally, water once a week. During the bud formation stage, apply 1-2 times of decomposed manure water. Do not overwater; keeping it moist is sufficient. During the growing season, apply diluted fermented urine at 5 times water dilution once every 2-3 weeks. If directly sown in a flower bed, thin the seedlings when they have 5 leaves, at a spacing of 30 cm. The following March, apply fermented urine diluted 3 times with water once more, and wait for it to bloom. In July, cut off the black fruits, dry them in the sun, thresh and collect the seeds.
Pests and diseases of bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis)
For scale insects, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution. Leaf spot disease sometimes occurs; spray with 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution for control.
For leaf spot disease, spray with 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution. For pest damage from scale insects, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution.
9. Daylily
Hemerocallis hybrida, a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Hemerocallis in the Liliaceae family, is native to China, Japan, and Eurasia, and is now widely cultivated around the world. It is an excellent perennial garden flower.
Hemerocallis hybrida has strong drought resistance, tolerates high temperatures, resists low temperatures, and adapts to a wide temperature range. It can be grown from south to north in our country. It has strong disease resistance and wide adaptability to soil. It can generally be cultivated in all soils except those that are too acidic, too alkaline, too sandy, or too clayey. A pH between 6.5 and 7.5 is best.
Propagation methods
Dividing daylily clumps is the most commonly used propagation method. This method is simple to perform, the plants survive easily, and growth is relatively uniform. For division, the entire mother clump can be dug up and replanted in divisions; or a portion of the plants can be dug out from one side of the mother clump as planting stock, with the remainder left to continue growing.
Division is mostly done before spring sprouting or after leaf drop in autumn. When divided and transplanted in spring, the plants can send up scapes and bloom the same year; when divided and transplanted in autumn, they can only send up scapes and bloom the following year. When transplanting, select plants that are vigorous, have many flower buds, good quality, and are free of pests and diseases.
When dividing, dig out a portion of the tillers from the clump as planting stock. The dug-out portion must have roots. Cut apart at the shortened stem, remove old roots, decayed roots, and diseased roots, retain as many fleshy roots as possible, and after appropriately shortening them (leaving about 10 cm), they can be planted. Planting should be done on a sunny day, digging seedlings, dividing seedlings, and planting seedlings all at once, minimizing root damage so that the plants recover quickly. Generally, divide once every 2 to 3 years to ensure vigorous growth of the plants.
Sowing is a method for rapidly producing large quantities of planting stock, but because the seed germination rate is low, the seeds need to be soaked to germinate first, and they can only be planted out one year after sowing. The seed collection period begins around September each year. The plants should be vigorous, the fruits plump, and free of pests and diseases. Sow the following spring.
The seedbed should first be given sufficient base fertilizer. The bed width is 1.3 to 1.7 m, the length about 30 m, with drainage ditches dug on both sides. When sowing, open shallow furrows about 3 cm deep every 20 cm, sow the seeds evenly in the furrows, cover with a layer of fine soil, then spread a thin layer of fine sand. Before seedling emergence, water and weed, and maintain good soil moisture. In autumn, the seedlings can be lifted and planted. Each mu of seedbed uses 2.5 kg of seed and can raise 50,000 to 60,000 seedlings.
Seeds can also be soaked and pre-germinated before sowing and raising seedlings in the open field. The sowing rate is 5 to 7 kg per mu, using flat-ground drilling. Open furrows at a row spacing of 30 cm, about 3 cm deep, and sow one seed every 3 to 5 cm. After the plants grow 2 to 3 leaves, apply one application of dilute human waste. Use a small arch tunnel for cold protection over winter. After spring begins, strengthen field management, and transplanting can be done in August. Seeds collected from Hemerocallis fulva can be sown directly, or stored at room temperature before sowing.
Flower shoots: Flower shoots refer to the small plants on the flower stems of Hemerocallis hybrida. The flower shoots can be cut from the flower stems. If they are relatively large, they can be further divided before planting. Transplanted flower shoots can root within one week. Rooted flower shoots can be used to propagate plants, increasing the number planted and ultimately improving economic returns.
Tissue culture: Use young leaves, filaments, and flower scapes and other organs to culture into plants. The method is to first induce the young organs to produce callus tissue, then culture them into young plantlets using an appropriate medium under suitable conditions of temperature, humidity, light, and air. Then the plantlets are temporarily planted in nutrient pots, and after a period of cultivation become young seedlings, after which they are planted out. However, this method has not yet been widely accepted.
In addition to the four methods described above, other methods can also be used to propagate Hemerocallis hybrida. Individual clonal plants can be divided into thin slices with growing points and root systems, and can be divided again after about 6 months of planting. When dividing, these plants must not be smaller than 1/4 of the original plant. Another method is to cut the top of the flower crown, use plant growth regulators to strengthen the vitality of the cut plants, carry out in vitro culture to promote rooting, and then plant them.
Planting
Hemerocallis hybrida is mostly planted in early spring in early March before sprouting. Although Hemerocallis hybrida does not have strict soil requirements, since it can grow for many years after planting, attention should be paid to the selection of the planting site. It is best to choose flat land with a low water table or sloping land with good water sources and irrigation conditions, with good drainage, loose soil, and deep soil layers. Newly opened wasteland must have the soil fully weathered, or organic fertilizer applied to increase its organic matter content. The land must be leveled. Because Hemerocallis hybrida has strong tillering ability, the spacing between plants and rows must be maintained at 40 to 50 cm when planting. Dig holes for planting, with the holes arranged in a triangle, planting 3 to 5 plants. Planting should not be too deep or too shallow. If too deep, tillering is slow; if too shallow, tillering is fast but the plants mostly grow thin and weak. Generally, the planting hole is more than 30 cm deep, with base fertilizer applied up to 15 to 20 cm from the ground surface, and after planting, cover with soil and firm it. Apply 500 to 600 kg per mu of human waste mixed with water as a spot application to settle the seedlings, ensuring the survival rate.
Management
Fertilization: Hemerocallis hybrida has a long flowering period and a relatively large demand for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In addition to applying sufficient base fertilizer at planting (decomposed cow dung or pig manure is preferable), fertilizer should also be applied according to the needs of different developmental stages. When nitrogen is sufficient, it can promote vigorous plant growth and larger leaves. Phosphorus can promote root growth, enhance tillering ability, help the transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth, enhance bud formation ability, and promote drought resistance, cold resistance, and disease resistance, improving quality. When potassium supply is sufficient, the plant tissues are tough, growth is vigorous, disease resistance is strong, and in the middle and later stages it can make the flower scapes emerge neatly and robustly, the flower buds develop large and plump, and bud formation ability is enhanced. Therefore, topdressing is needed twice before and during the flowering period, each time mainly with quick-acting fertilizers, combined with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, and nitrogen fertilizer should not be applied alone. Spraying 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate can also promote larger flowers and can achieve the effect of extending the flowering period.
Irrigation: Hemerocallis hybrida has relatively strong drought resistance, and its water requirement during the vegetative growth period is not large. Therefore, irrigation should be based on the water needs of daylily at each growth and development stage, combined with local climate, soil, and water source conditions. After new seedlings are transplanted, the soil water holding capacity should be maintained at 70% to 80%, and watered promptly during drought. At the seedling stage, the plants are small and the water requirement is also small. From the beginning of reproductive growth, the water requirement gradually increases. If there is a water shortage at this time, growth will be affected. During the flower bud stage, the soil must be kept moist at all times to prevent flower buds from dropping due to drought, generally watering once a week. Watering should be thorough and even, preferably in the morning and evening. In July and August there is a lot of rain, so drainage and waterlogging prevention are needed. Before winter, winter irrigation should be done to ensure early sprouting the following year.
Weeding: After planting and during the seedling stage, timely cultivating and weeding should be done. At the seedling stage, cultivation should be shallow rather than deep, and as the seedlings age, cultivation should be deepened. Before spring seedlings emerge, do one shallow loosening of the soil, and after emergence, shallow hoeing 3 to 4 times at appropriate times, which can achieve the dual purpose of weeding and drought prevention. Cultivating and weeding should be done when soil moisture is moderate, and can be stopped once the leaf clumps cover the ground. Promptly remove weeds in the daylily field. If weeds grow densely, they can easily cause pests and diseases, affecting the growth and appearance of daylily.
Weeding can be done either by traditional manual weeding or by using herbicides suitable for Hemerocallis hybrida. Sethoxydim, also known as Nabu, is a selective pre-emergence and post-emergence stem and leaf treatment agent that can control grass weeds such as barnyardgrass, wild oat, foxtail, goosegrass, and bermudagrass. Pendimethalin, also known as penoxalin, is a selective pre-emergence soil treatment agent that is very effective in pre-emergence control of annual narrow-leaf weeds and some broadleaf weeds, such as crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, alopecurus, and bluegrass and other annual grass weeds, as well as lambsquarters, amaranth, chickweed, galinsoga, and shepherd's purse and other broadleaf weeds. Metolachlor, also known as metolachlor, is a selective pre-emergence dryland soil treatment agent used to control barnyardgrass, crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, and lovegrass and other annual grass weeds, and also controls some small-seeded broadleaf weeds such as amaranth, purslane, shepherd's purse, galinsoga, and chickweed, as well as rice flatsedge. It has poor control efficacy against perennial weeds and most broadleaf weeds. Fluazifop-butyl is a post-emergence stem and leaf treatment herbicide that has good control efficacy against annual and perennial grass weeds, but is ineffective against broadleaf weeds and sedges. In addition, oryzalin (Surflan), isoxaflutole mixtures (Snapshot), and others can all be used to control weeds in Hemerocallis hybrida fields.
Pest and disease control: Rust, leaf spot, and leaf blight are diseases that daylily is highly prone to. Rust is a fungal disease and is the main disease in the middle and later stages of daylily. It begins to occur in early May, is most severe from June to July, and gradually stops only after October. It damages leaves and flower scapes. At first, a small number of yellow powdery spots appear on the leaves, then gradually spread to the entire leaf, until the whole plant dies. When the disease occurs, fungicides such as triadimefon and fenaminosulf can be sprayed for control. Leaf spot is caused by fungi of the genus Fusarium and is the main disease at the daylily seedling stage. It begins to occur from late March to early April, with the peak from mid-to-late April to mid-to-late May. It often occurs in the middle part on both sides of the leaf midrib. After perforation, the transport of water and nutrients is interrupted. The leaf tip first turns yellow and withered, and finally the entire leaf withers and dies. Bordeaux mixture or lime sulfur mixture can be sprayed for control.
Leaf blight is caused by pathogenic fungi of the genus Colletotrichum and is a seedling-stage disease that occurs after leaf spot. It generally begins in early May, is most severe in early to mid-June, and mainly damages leaves, and also damages flower scapes. It occurs from the seedling stage onward. Small water-soaked spots first appear at the middle edges of the leaves, then gradually spread upward and downward, forming brown streaks, and finally turning grayish white. In severe cases, the entire leaf dies. It can be controlled by spraying 50% carbendazim at 600 to 800 times dilution, or by spraying Bordeaux mixture around Qingming.
The main pests of daylily are red spiders and aphids. Red spiders are small red mites that resemble spiders. They mainly damage plants by piercing and sucking sap on the underside of leaves, and grayish-white small spots appear at the damaged areas. They can be controlled with 40% dimethoate emulsion, 20% clofentezine wettable powder, and others. Aphids mainly occur in May. They first damage leaves, then pierce and suck sap on flower buds. The damaged flower buds become thin and small and easily drop. They can be controlled with lime sulfur mixture, 40% dimethoate emulsion, 25% malathion emulsifiable concentrate, tobacco lime water, and others. In addition, in trials on Hemerocallis hybrida propagation, it was found that from May to August snails cause relatively serious damage to Hemerocallis hybrida, and control measures should be taken promptly.
10. Amaryllis
Amaryllis, also known as belladonna lily, hundred-branch lotus, and trumpet flower, is a plant of the genus Hippeastrum in the Amaryllidaceae family. The amaryllis flower scape stands elegantly upright, with 4-6 vermilion trumpet-shaped flowers borne at the top, opening toward the sun, appearing especially gorgeous and pleasing. Because the appearance of amaryllis is very similar to that of clivia, it also has the elegant name "gentleman's red." In Tianjin it is called "rouge cave," which is quite a fitting name. It is now widely cultivated around the world. Besides potted ornamental display, it is also planted in open-field courtyards to form community landscapes, adding to the garden scenery. In recent years, to make it easier for flower growers, horticulturists in Europe and America have specially produced amaryllis as canned flowers. To date, production in Europe is relatively large. In the main producing country, the Netherlands, the sales output value of amaryllis in 1995 reached 19.1 million US dollars. Belgium, Germany, France, and Spain all have certain production. In Asia, eastern India produces amaryllis bulbs, but the production facilities are backward and the quality is poor. In our country, during the period from 1912 to 1949, Nanjing, Shanghai, and other places already had potted ornamental amaryllis. Beginning in the 1970s, it was planted around open-field courtyards in southern China as a landscape feature. In recent years, many excellent varieties have been introduced from abroad across the country, many of them dwarf varieties suitable for potted ornamental display, creating conditions for the development and utilization of amaryllis.
Sowing and division propagation are commonly used.
Seed propagation: Use indoor pot sowing in May-June. The optimum germination temperature is 18-22°C, and germination occurs about 20 days after sowing. Pay attention to fertilizer and water management during the seedling stage. When the true leaves reach 3-4, carry out the first transplanting, maintaining a certain spacing between plants. From sowing to flowering takes 3-4 years.
Division propagation: For potted amaryllis, do this when repotting in February-March. Before dividing and planting, first remove old roots and old soil, separate the small bulbs growing beside the mother bulb, and pot them separately according to bulb size. Generally, flowering bulbs have a circumference of 24-26 cm. When planting, expose 1/3 of the bulb above the soil surface. Plant in March, and bloom in April-May.
In recent years, scale cuttings, scoring, and tissue culture methods have been widely used abroad to propagate amaryllis.
Scale cutting propagation: Select well-developed, disease-free bulbs, peel off the overly mature outer scales, and keep the full, well-developed middle scales for propagation, but each scale must carry a stem disc. In September, insert the scales into a sand bed at 18-20°C, keep moist, and small bulbs will form and roots will grow at the base the same year. The following spring, new shoots grow from the small bulbs, and they need to be cultivated for 3 more years to become flowering bulbs.
Scoring propagation: Select bulbs with a circumference of 24-26 cm. Soak the bulbs in 1% copper sulfate solution for 5 minutes, wash with water, cut off 1/3 of the bulb, gently score the main bud in the center of the bulb with a knife, place flat on a sand bed, keep the room temperature at 18-22°C, maintain relatively high air humidity, and after 2 months several small bulbs will form between the scales.
For potted amaryllis, use loose, fertile, slightly acidic leaf mold or peat soil. Flowering bulbs with a circumference of 24-26 cm require a 12 cm pot. Commercial cultivation also uses 18-20 cm pots, planting 3 bulbs. The planting depth is based on exposing 1/3 of the bulb above the pot soil. Water little at first planting, and when flower stems or leaves appear, keep the pot soil moist. During the growing season, fertilize once every half month, and after the flower stem emerges, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer once. After flowering, continue to supply water and fertilizer to promote plump and full bulbs. In commercial production, amaryllis is often forced. Flowering bulbs pretreated at a low temperature of 5°C for 50 days, under conditions of a soil temperature of 21°C and a room temperature of 17-19°C, bloom 6 weeks after planting. According to experimental reports, soaking bulbs in indoleacetic acid can increase the weight and number of small bulbs. Soaking bulbs in gibberellin (GA3) can increase bulb weight and enlarge flower diameter. Soaking in chlormequat (CCC) can increase the number of flowers. Spraying amaryllis leaves with indoleacetic acid, gibberellin, and chlormequat can likewise increase the number of small bulbs and flowers.
If seeds are to be collected from amaryllis, artificial pollination should be carried out to increase the seed-setting rate. Because amaryllis seeds are flat and extremely thin, they easily lose water and lose germination ability, so they should be sown immediately after collection. If producing bulbs, promptly cut off the flower stems after flowering to avoid consuming bulb nutrients. After leaves grow, strengthen fertilization to promote bulb enlargement and the production of new bulbs. Bulbs can be stored for 8-10 weeks at 13°C, and can be stored long-term at 5°C.
The main diseases include viral disease, spot disease, and nematode disease. Spot disease damages leaves and flowers.
11. Peony
Peony is one of China's traditional famous flowers, with a cultivation history of more than 3000 years. Peony flower forms are varied, the flower colors are gorgeous, the green leaves are elegant, and the plant clumps are full. Used for landscaping and ornament, it can lead people into a beautiful and enchanting realm.
Peony is a perennial herbaceous flower of the Ranunculaceae family, with a plant height of about 1 m. The flowers are solitary at the top of the current year's branches, and some are borne in the leaf axils at the top. The flower stalk is relatively long. The flowers are divided into single-petaled and double-petaled types, and the flower colors include white, yellow, pink, purple, rose, and many other colors.
Peony flowers have strong cold resistance and can overwinter naturally in the open field in most areas of northern China. However, their heat tolerance is relatively poor, and growth stops in hot summers. They like sunlight, but can also grow and bloom under light shade. They like moisture, but fear waterlogging, and are suitable for growing in deep, fertile, and well-drained sandy loam. Low-lying saline-alkali land is not suitable for cultivation.
Peony is commonly propagated by division. The best time for division is from late August to mid-September. The division method is to dig up clumps that are more than 3 years old, shake off the soil, dry them in the shade until slightly wilted, then take three or four buds as one plant, find the smallest natural connection point, cut apart with a sharp knife, and coat the cut with charcoal powder for antisepsis. To promote new root germination, the fleshy roots can be shortened to 15 cm. After division, plant as soon as possible.
The growth characteristics of peony are rapid growth and flowering after sprouting in spring. After flowering, upward growth stops and the number of leaves no longer increases. In late autumn, all aboveground stems and leaves die. Underground, the spindle-shaped fleshy roots accumulate sufficient nutrients and lie deep in the soil. At the root crown there are dormant young buds waiting to sprout, and when spring returns to the earth the following year, they break through the soil.
1. Land requirements:
Choose sandy soil with high terrain, dryness, good drainage, deep soil layers, and loose fertility. Before planting, apply sufficient base fertilizer, preferably decomposed cake fertilizer (200 kg/mu) or dried manure (1500 kg/mu), and deeply plow and level the land before planting.
2. Planting time and specifications:
The suitable planting time is generally from late August (End of Heat) to late September (Autumn Equinox). For planting density, generally for ornamental use 80 cm x 70 cm can be used, planting about 1200 plants per mu; for production use 60 cm x 50 cm can be used, planting about 2200 plants per mu. When planting, the hole specifications are generally about 35 cm deep and about 20 cm in diameter. The depth of the seedling should be such that the buds are 3 cm below the ground surface. Finally, fill the hole with soil, firm it, and pile up a 10 cm mound of soil to prevent cold, preserve soil moisture, and serve as a marker. After planting, depending on soil moisture, water appropriately for overwintering.
3. Field management:
(1) Cultivating and weeding: In the spring of the following year, before peony sprouts, level the soil mounds from the previous autumn. During the growing season, keep the soil loose and free of weeds, hoeing after rain and hoeing during long droughts.
(2) Removing side buds: In addition to the terminal bud produced at the top of the stem, peony also produces 3-6 side buds in the upper leaf axils of the stem. If the side buds are removed early, nutrients can be concentrated, making the main bud flower large and full; if the side buds are retained, the flowers will be abundant and the ornamental period long. This can be controlled independently according to need.
(3) Watering and topdressing: Peony has fleshy roots and a well-developed root system, with strong drought resistance. Generally no watering is needed. If spring drought or dog-day drought lasts a long time, water once or twice, preferably with pollution-free river water. In winter, depending on soil dryness and wetness, one winter irrigation can also be given. Peony grows vigorously and has a high fertilizer requirement, so it can be fertilized twice a year. Before winter, apply some slow-release fertilizer, such as decomposed cake fertilizer (150 kg/mu) or dried night soil (1500 kg/mu). Before or after flowering, apply some quick-acting fertilizer, such as compound fertilizer or diammonium phosphate (10-15 kg/mu), and foliar topdressing can also be combined, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate or trace-element fertilizer, sprayed once every 15-20 days.
4. Pest and disease control:
(1) Diseases: Mainly leaf spot, including red spot and brown spot. The peak incidence is generally in summer and autumn seasons with high temperature and high humidity. In the early stage of the disease, spray 40% carbendazim at 800 times dilution on the leaf surface for control. In severe cases, use 40% carbendazim at 500 times dilution, spraying once every 15 days; 2-3 times is sufficient for control.
(2) Pests: Mainly white grubs and nematodes. For white grubs, during the peak period from July to August, use 30% carbofuran (5 kg/mu) or 50% phoxim granules (3 kg/mu) or isofenphos-methyl aqueous solution, mix with organic fertilizer or sandy soil to make poison bait, spread evenly, and then deep hoe. Nematodes are root-knot nematodes, highly transmissible and relatively serious in damage to peony. The symptoms are nodules of different sizes on the fibrous roots, weak plant growth, yellowing, scorching, and early dropping of leaf margins, and in severe cases the plant becomes dwarfed and eventually dies. For control, use 30% carbofuran granules at 25 g/sq m, apply evenly to the affected plots during the rainy summer period, then deep hoe 5-10 cm. Because root-knot nematodes are aerobic lower animals and mainly live within the 5-20 cm soil layer, when applying the pesticide, it must never be too deep.
12. Chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant. In the long-day seasons of spring and summer, it can only carry out vegetative growth. After the Beginning of Autumn, as the weather turns cooler and the daylight hours shorten, it can begin flower bud differentiation, develop flower buds, and bloom with gorgeous flowers in the frost.
Chrysanthemum has strong adaptability and does not have strict requirements for climate and soil conditions. It is cultivated throughout our country, and can grow in slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils. Small chrysanthemums have stronger cold resistance than large chrysanthemums, and their flowers do not wither after several severe frosts. At temperatures above 10°C, dormant buds can sprout, and 20 to 25°C is the most suitable temperature for growth. Chrysanthemum is drought-tolerant, fears waterlogging, and likes loose, fertile sandy soil rich in humus, a cool climate, and sufficient sunlight.
Chrysanthemum can be propagated by division, cuttings, grafting, sowing, and many other methods. Grafting and sowing have high technical requirements and relatively cumbersome propagation processes. Without superb cutting and grafting skills and techniques such as the selection of good varieties and artificial pollination, it is very difficult to propagate successfully. These two propagation methods are also only carried out in nurseries when large numbers of seedlings are needed. For home chrysanthemum growing, division and cutting are generally used for propagation.
1. Seed propagation: Before sowing, apply sufficient decomposed organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, deeply plow and finely harrow, and make flat beds. Mix the seeds evenly with fine sand and broadcast, cover with fine soil about 0.5 cm thick, cover with a shade net after sowing and water thoroughly. In early spring when it is cold, cloudy, and rainy, cover with plastic film to maintain soil moisture and temperature. Watering should be done with a fine spray to prevent surface soil crusting. After about 10 days the seedlings emerge; remove the shade net or plastic film, and when the seedlings have 2-3 leaves they can be transplanted to the field. Chrysanthemum greens can be direct-sown. In southern China they can be sown in February, while in cold northern regions they can be sown in early April. The seeding rate is about 0.2 kg per mu.
2. Division propagation: In mid-to-late March, dig out the old chrysanthemum greens stubble, expose the root crown, cut off the lateral buds that already have roots together with the old roots, and transplant them to the field. Division propagation is more suitable when new shoots are sprouting.
3. Cutting propagation: Cutting propagation can be carried out throughout the growing season, with the highest survival rate for cuttings taken from April to June. The seedbed is best made with new soil mixed with composted and decomposed organic fertilizer. Cut branches with 3-5 nodes and 8-10 cm long, remove the basal leaves, and insert to a depth of 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length. After cutting, keep the bed moist, avoid waterlogging, provide shade in high-temperature seasons, and when temperatures are lower, build a plastic film arch tunnel for heat and moisture retention. Generally, they can be transplanted to the field after 15 days.
Some people may like to put chrysanthemums in a vase. Here are a few tips for everyone:
1. Before putting chrysanthemums in a vase, first cut off the flower leaves on the lower part of the stem that may be submerged in water. Because chrysanthemums have a relatively long flowering period, up to 2-3 weeks, while the flower leaves quickly turn yellow. Flower leaves submerged in water will compete with the flowers for nutrients and may also breed bacteria.
2. To make chrysanthemums last longer in the vase, not only should the water be changed daily, but each time the water is changed, cut off 1 inch of the stem base submerged in water. This ensures that the water-absorbing channels remain unobstructed.
3. Chrysanthemums in a vase also need certain nutrients. The simplest method is to put a vitamin tablet in the water, or add 1 teaspoon of white sugar. However, organic nutrients (such as white sugar) will provide a great possibility for bacterial reproduction, so at the same time 1-2 drops of bleach or a little bleach powder can be added to the water to effectively control bacterial reproduction (the dosage of bleach should be adjusted according to water volume, number of flowers, and bleach purity).
13. Wax begonia
Wax begonia, also known as glass emerald and glass begonia, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Begonia in the Begoniaceae family. It likes well-drained, humus-rich sandy loam, is not cold-tolerant, and avoids direct sun and rain. The simple leaves are alternate, ovate to oblong-ovate, and the leaf colors include green, dark red, and others. The flower colors include bright red, pink, white, and others, and it blooms in all four seasons.
Sowing propagation can be done in all four seasons. First compact the pot soil and soak it thoroughly. Because the seeds are very small, they should be mixed with fine sand, scattered evenly, and lightly covered with fine sand or not covered. Cover with a glass pane or film to retain moisture, and they will germinate quickly. When the seedlings grow to 2 to 3 leaves, transplant them into pots, and at this time diluted liquid fertilizer can be applied. When they grow to 4 to 6 cm tall, plant them out for normal management.
Cutting propagation: Cut 7 to 10 cm cuttings, dry them in the shade for 1 to 2 hours, keep half a leaf, and insert into sandy soil. Keep the pot soil moist, and they will root quickly. This can be done in all four seasons.
Cultivation management: The pot soil should be well-drained, humus-rich sandy loam. During the growing season, moderate moisture is required, and apply composted diluted liquid fertilizer once every 1 to 2 weeks. Wax begonia likes light, but avoids direct sunlight. Too strong light easily causes leaves to curl and develop scorched spots, while insufficient light makes the plants grow thin and weak, affecting flowering. The optimum growth temperature is 20°C, and the minimum temperature is 10°C; lower than that and it is prone to cold damage. In the high-temperature summer season it is in a semi-dormant state, and should be placed in a well-ventilated shaded spot; at this time stop fertilizing. To make the plant shape full, pinch the tips multiple times during the growing season, and at the same time apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. After 1 to 2 years of planting, wax begonia appears aged, and can be heavily pruned from the base to promote new shoots. After pinching treatment again, it can restore its original lush appearance. Repot once a year, removing old roots and dead roots.
14. Fuchsia
Fuchsia, also known as hanging bell begonia and lantern begonia, is an evergreen subshrub of the genus Fuchsia in the Onagraceae family. The flowers are solitary in the leaf axils at the ends of branches. The pedicel is long, and the calyx tube is bell-shaped or tubular, often hanging downward. The flower colors include pink, purple-red, apricot yellow, white, and others. It blooms in all four seasons, most abundantly in spring and autumn. There are many varieties of fuchsia, with different plant forms and flower postures.
Fuchsia is native to South America. It likes a mild, cool, and humid environment, and its optimum growth temperature is 10°C-15°C. In summer, it fears strong direct sunlight and high temperatures; in winter, it fears cold below 5°C. No wonder it is called the "delicate lady among flowers." Its requirements for fertilizer and water vary with the season. In spring and autumn the demand is relatively large. In the hot summer season, fuchsia enters a semi-dormant state, and watering should be controlled to avoid root rot and death. Measures such as ventilation and cooling should be taken, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently, and the plants should be placed under a shade shed to ensure safe overwintering through summer. After the weather cools in autumn, it revives. Strengthen fertilizer and water management, pinch and shape in a timely manner, and promote side branches. Generally, it can bloom two to three weeks after pinching, so pinching is also often used to control the flowering period. The pot soil should preferably be fertile, loose, well-drained sandy loam, and it can tolerate weak alkalinity.
Fuchsia sets fruit with difficulty after flowering, so cuttings are usually used for propagation. This can be done throughout the year, but spring is preferable. One-year-old young branches are the easiest to root. Select healthy, full top branches with three or four nodes, 5 cm-10 cm long, keep the upper 3 small leaves, and insert to a depth of one node in sandy soil. Keep the temperature at 15°C-20°C. Spray water once a day to maintain air humidity, and roots will form after two weeks. Plant the young seedlings into pots with potting soil in a timely manner, and pinch promptly to promote side branches. Old plants should be repotted every spring, combined with heavy pruning for propagation, and the old roots around the edges should be cut off to rejuvenate the plants. Spring cuttings have an advantage, namely that the young seedlings have relatively strong heat resistance and mostly will not lose leaves during the dog days. Cuttings taken before the dog days bloom after autumn, hence the saying "raise the young, not the old." If the plants lose leaves in summer, generally after the Beginning of Autumn they should be cut back promptly to promote new branches, and liquid fertilizer should be topdressed, so that they can bloom in autumn.
15. Clivia
Clivia has strong vitality and is easy to cultivate, but to grow it well, the correct cultivation method is essential. For a good clivia, cultivation skill and the plant itself can be divided 70-30, which shows the importance of cultivation techniques. Only by understanding the growth habits of clivia can one explore and summarize the correct cultivation techniques, so that growing clivia is easy and efficient, and the clivia grown will be pleasing to the eye. The growth of clivia is greatly affected by water, soil, fertilizer, light, temperature, and humidity factors. Here are some views on these six aspects:
1. Water: As is well known, plant growth cannot do without water. The absorption of nutrients and all physiological activities must depend on water. But different plants have different requirements for water, and the water quality in different places is also different. Clivia's requirements for water are as follows:
Water pH: Clivia likes neutral or slightly acidic water, with a pH of about 6.5. The water pH varies from place to place. If it is not neutral or slightly acidic water, consideration should be given to improving it. For example, alkaline water can be neutralized with rice-washing water.
Water quality: Tap water, river water, lake water, and others differ in water quality. Clean water rich in minerals is best. Tap water has been treated with artificially added chemicals, and should usually be stored for a few days before being used to water flowers.
Soil moisture content: The suitable moisture content should be 20%-40%, preferably neither dry nor wet. If the soil moisture content is too high for a long time, the air permeability of the soil will worsen, easily causing root rot; conversely, if the moisture content is too low, it will cause dehydration, leading to shriveling and withering of the roots.
Watering method: The principle of watering is not to water if not dry, and to water thoroughly when watering. The practice of giving just a little water at a time, like a dragonfly skimming the water, is extremely harmful. The "dry" mentioned here does not mean dry to the point of no water, but rather that the soil moisture content has become relatively low, which is the time to water. People who grow clivia regularly often tap the flower pot with their fingers and judge the soil moisture content by the sound of the tap. If the sound is dull, it indicates that the soil moisture content is relatively high and there is no need to water; conversely, if the sound is crisp, it indicates that the soil moisture content is relatively low and watering should be done immediately. The reason the dragonfly-skimming practice is extremely harmful is that most of the small amount of water is absorbed by the soil or flows away directly along channels formed in the soil, with very little absorbed by the roots, almost equivalent to not watering at all.
In addition, when watering, note that the water temperature and soil temperature should be close, and the temperature difference between the two should not be too large. The best watering time is in the morning and evening. At noon in summer, the temperature is very high, so it is not suitable to water. Watering should avoid the flower center, especially during the period of scape emergence and flowering, to prevent unclean water from causing heart rot.
2. Soil: The roots of clivia are fleshy roots, suitable for growing in loose, fertile, water-permeable, and well-aerated soil. Therefore, the selection of cultivation soil should strictly consider these four factors.
Soil quality: Humus soil meets the above four requirements and is the first choice for growing clivia. The best humus soil is oak leaves (oak tree leaves). Others such as larch, hazel, pear, and apple tree leaves can also be used, but attention should be paid to pesticide factors. Walnut tree leaves are toxic and cannot be used. High-quality humus soil should be moderately rotted tree leaves, with a rotting degree of about 50%. A high rotting degree is not good, as water permeability and air permeability are poor.
To further improve the structure of humus soil and enhance water permeability and air permeability, some larch pine needles, rice husk charcoal (not ash), washed river sand, and furnace ash slag can also be added, accounting for 10%-20%. Compacted and barren ordinary soil is not suitable for growing clivia and will seriously affect the normal growth of clivia.
In addition, the soil pH varies in different regions. Neutral or slightly acidic soil should be selected, with a pH between 6.5 and 7.
3. Fertilizer: As the saying goes, "For a crop to bloom, it all depends on fertilizer." Fertilizer is an essential and important nutrient source for the vigorous growth of clivia. Clivia is a fertilizer-loving flower, and mature clivia must have sufficient fertility.
Fertilizing clivia should be determined according to the size, variety, growth and development status, and season of the clivia. Applying too much or too little fertilizer is not conducive to the growth of clivia. Too much will cause root burn, and the leaves will wrinkle or become stunted; too little will lack nutrients, and the clivia will grow slowly, with leaves noticeably narrowing, becoming soft, and not upright.
Types and uses of fertilizer: Fertilizer is divided into solid fertilizer and liquid fertilizer.
Solid fertilizer: Castor seeds, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, perilla seeds, and others, after being fried and cooked, with a small amount of bone meal added, make very good solid fertilizer. Solid fertilizer is usually used as base fertilizer (bottom fertilizer and waist fertilizer), applied twice a year (April-May in spring and September-October in autumn), but it must not touch the roots, so as to avoid causing root burn.
Liquid fertilizer: Sesame, peanuts, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, freshwater fish (with internal organs removed), and others, after full fermentation, make good liquid fertilizer. Liquid fertilizer is used as a supplementary fertilizer, with quick fertilizer effect but short-lasting fertility, and can be applied once every half month. The application of liquid fertilizer should follow the principle of low concentration and small amounts applied frequently, to prevent excessive fertilizer from burning the roots. In spring and autumn, clivia grows vigorously, and liquid fertilizer should be applied to provide sufficient nutrients. When applying liquid fertilizer, prevent it from dripping onto the clivia leaves or heart, to avoid leaf rot or heart rot. After each fertilization, use a watering can to spray clean water to rinse the clivia leaves or heart.
The above are all organic fertilizers. Inorganic fertilizers can also be used, and they take effect faster. Clivia growth emphasizes nutritional balance. It needs not only the nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium we are familiar with, but also various trace elements. A serious deficiency of any one element will have adverse effects on the normal growth of clivia. This is also the reason people have long mostly used organic fertilizers.
4. Light: Light is an essential element for clivia photosynthesis. Sufficient light is needed. Indoor clivia growing should be placed on a windowsill to ensure sufficient light. It is not tolerant of strong light and likes weak light (dappled light). In summer when light is strong, shading treatment is needed to prevent scorching the leaves. Clivia leaves have strong phototropism. Regularly adjust the light-facing angle to make the plant shape neat. If conditions permit, the extension direction of the leaves should be consistent with the north-south direction.
Clivia leaves should be kept clean. Frequently wipe dust off the leaves with a soft damp cloth, which is beneficial to photosynthesis.
5. Temperature: The suitable temperature for clivia growth is 15°C-25°C, neither cold nor hot.
In summer above 25°C, measures such as ventilation and shading should be taken to cool down. Above 30°C with low humidity will cause the leaf luster to fade. High temperature with abundant water will make the leaves grow too long. High temperature may even cause high-temperature disease, leading to the whole plant rotting.
Below 10°C, growth and development will be slow. Below 5°C, growth will be inhibited. Below 0°C, the leaves will freeze and be damaged or die.
6. Humidity: Clivia likes a warm and humid environment. Low environmental humidity will affect the luster of the leaves. Dry air and wind and sun exposure in the open field will cause the leaves to lose their delicate luster, becoming rough and dull in color. People have found that clivia cultivated in flower cellars is delicate, succulent, and lustrous, while clivia grown on windowsills cannot achieve this effect, and the reason lies here. The solution is to try to create a small environment similar to a flower cellar on the balcony.
To grow clivia well in summer, one should achieve the "six preventions" and "six don'ts."
1. Prevent direct sunlight; do not expose to the sun. In summer, clivia should be shielded from strong light all day. Using the oblique sunlight in the early morning each day to sun it for a while is enough to satisfy photosynthesis.
2. Prevent high temperatures, do not let it dry out. The suitable temperature for Clivia in summer is 18°C-25°C; it is best placed in an air-conditioned room, and a shaded, ventilated spot on a balcony is also fine. When watering, it is best to use tap water that has been left standing for two or three days, watering once daily after 6 p.m.; do not let the potting soil become too dry or too wet.
3. Prevent leggy growth, do not fertilize. Summer is the dormant period for Clivia, so stop fertilizing, water moderately, and controlling humidity is an effective measure. If the potting soil has been fertilized too heavily or the fertilizer effect is too strong, remove the top layer of soil from the pot, mix in 1/3-2/3 sand, blend evenly, and put it back in the pot; this not only reduces the fertilizer effect but also helps lower the temperature.
4. Prevent dust pollution, do not water with dirty water. The leaf surface of Clivia should be kept clean; once a week, dip a fine gauze cloth in clean water, wring it dry, and gently wipe once. Watering with dirty water will cause the roots and leaves to rot and turn yellow.
5. Prevent soil compaction, do not use clay (loess) in the pot. Clivia is suited to cultivation in loose, breathable, water-permeable, fertile humus soil with a pH of around 7.0.
6. Prevent disease, do not cause infection. When changing the soil or wiping the leaves, move gently to prevent wounds on the roots and leaves that ooze sap, which can trigger infection and cause rot.
16. Cyclamen
Cyclamen is native to the southeastern coast of the Mediterranean, in the low mountain forest zones along the coast from Israel and Jordan to Greece. It is now widely cultivated around the world. Cyclamen prefers a cool, moist environment with ample light. The optimum growing temperature is 15-20°C; below 10°C, growth weakens, flower color fades, and blooms wither easily; when the temperature reaches above 30°C, the plant enters dormancy. In the hot summer regions of our country, cyclamen is then in a dormant or semi-dormant state; whereas in the Kunming area of Yunnan Province, where it is like spring all year round, the summer is cool and moist, so it does not go dormant and continues to grow normally. When the temperature exceeds 35°C, the plant is very easily damaged and rots to death. During the seedling stage, it has relatively strong resistance to high temperatures. The relative humidity during the growing period should preferably be 70%-75%. Cyclamen is neutral to day length, and temperature is the main environmental factor affecting flower bud differentiation. The optimum temperature for flower bud differentiation is 15-18°C. During the growing period, the required light intensity is 28,000-36,000 Lx; if it is higher than 45,000 Lx or lower than 15,000 Lx, the rate of photosynthesis decreases markedly. However, it also does not tolerate strong summer sunlight exposure and should be cultivated under a shade frame. It often self-pollinates, but cross-pollination can also occur. It has relatively strong resistance to sulfur dioxide and is suitable for indoor greening in factory areas.
I. Key points for potted cyclamen propagation and cultivation: cultivation techniques
Propagation is mostly by sowing. Sow in September, and it blooms the following winter. It can also be propagated by cutting the tuber, but this easily causes rot, so it is mostly not used. The key to cultivation is maintaining a cool but not overly wet environment during the summer dormant period. Tubers 2-3 years old have the strongest growth, so old tubers are often discarded. Repot once a year.
II. Propagation and cultivation care of cyclamen
1. Sowing: Cyclamen tubers cannot naturally divide to produce small tubers, so propagation is generally by sowing. However, cyclamen is severely affected by viruses, and seeds often carry a relatively high virus infection rate. If the virus infection rate is >20%, the seeds must be virus-eliminated before sowing. The method is: soak the seeds in 0.1% mercuric chloride for 1-2 minutes, then rinse clean with water; then soak in a 10% sodium phosphate solution for 10-20 minutes, and rinse clean; finally soak in a 35-40°C colloidal solution for 48 hours, rinse clean with water, and they are ready to sow. Determine the sowing period according to the desired flowering time. Generally sow 13 months before the desired flowering time, and even early-flowering varieties require 8-10 months. To supply flowers for Christmas, New Year's Day, and Spring Festival, sowing is usually done in September-October.
Cyclamen germinates slowly and unevenly, with a germination rate of about 85%-95%. To promote earlier and more uniform germination, seeds can be soaked and pre-germinated before sowing (virus-eliminated seeds sown immediately do not need pre-germination). Soak the seeds in cold water for 24 hours or in 30°C warm water for 2-3 hours, wash off the sticky material on the seed surface, wrap them in a damp cloth to pre-germinate, and treat at 25°C for 1-2 days. Once the seeds show slight signs of sprouting, take them out and sow. For the sowing medium, use equal parts vermiculite and fine furnace slag; equal parts peat and vermiculite; or equal parts loam, leaf mold, and river sand. Sow in spots, at a spacing of 2 cm x 2 cm, covering with 0.5 cm of soil. Keep the potting soil moist by the pot-soaking method, at 18-20°C, and germination occurs in 30-40 days. When the seedlings have grown 1 true leaf, prick them out at a spacing of 3.5 cm x 3.5 cm, using a medium mixed in the ratio of leaf mold 5, loam 3, river sand 2. When planting, keep the top of the small tuber level with the soil surface, maintain moisture, place in weak light during the recovery period, and after growth resumes, gradually increase light and strengthen ventilation. The temperature should preferably be 15-18°C, apply appropriate topdressing, and be careful not to let the fertilizer solution touch the leaves, so as to avoid causing rot. When the seedlings have 3-5 leaves, pot them up.
2. Tuber division method: For superior varieties of cyclamen that set fruit poorly, propagation by dividing the tuber can be used. In late August, when the tuber is about to sprout, cut the tuber vertically from the top into several sections, each section needing to have a bud eye; coat the cut surfaces with plant ash or charcoal powder, let them dry slightly, and then they can be potted. Careful maintenance and management are required. This method has a low propagation coefficient, the tubers easily rot, management is difficult, flowering is sparse, the plant shape is not attractive, and the tuber exposed above the soil surface is not round and neat; it is seldom used.
In recent years, various studies on vegetative propagation of cyclamen have been conducted internationally. Successful methods include: 1. tuber tissue culture, cutting the tuber into pieces and culturing them aseptically to form regenerated plants; 2. cuttings using leaf buds with some tuber tissue attached; 3. in the original pot, cutting off the upper part of the tuber and then dividing it vertically to form regenerated shoots, etc. The third method is described in detail below. The cyclamen tuber is formed by the abnormal thickening of the hypocotyl; after cutting off the upper part, adventitious buds can grow from the cut surface and then form regenerated plants. By dividing 1 tuber, many regenerated individuals can be obtained. The procedure is: select a robust, plump, and full tuber, and divide it 1-2 months after flowering; the suitable period for division is May-June. First adjust the moisture of the potting soil, because if division is done under normal cultivation conditions, the wound will secrete a large amount of sap; this bleeding not only affects growth vigor, especially hindering the formation of adventitious buds, but also easily leads to rot. Therefore, watering should be controlled to reduce soil moisture. When the leaf tips feel soft to the touch, this is the suitable time for division. First cut off the upper part of the tuber, about 1/3 of the tuber's thickness. Then make radial cuts (for tubers with a diameter under 4 cm) or checkerboard cuts (for tubers with a diameter over 4 cm) vertically, to a depth that does not injure the root system. If making checkerboard cuts, the interval between cuts is 1 cm; a tuber with a diameter of 6 cm can be cut into 27 pieces.
Immediately after division, cover the pot tightly with plastic film and carry out curing treatment at 30°C until the wound forms periderm, which takes about 12 days; then promote adventitious buds at 20°C. During this period (about 20-30 days), the key point of management is to maintain the soil moisture at the time of division. At division, the pot can be weighed together, and every 2-3 days the lost water is replenished according to the weight. 70-80 days after division, each cut piece forms adventitious buds; lower the temperature to 15°C so they gradually adapt to the environment. From the beginning of adventitious bud formation (about 35 days after division), gradually increase the amount of water supplied, and apply liquid fertilizer once a week. About 100 days after division, regenerated plants have basically formed, and they can be transplanted into pots. Usually they flower 11-14 months after division. This method is carried out in the original cultivation pot; it is simple and easy to perform and does not require complex techniques or equipment; the time to form regenerated plants is short; the regenerated individuals are uniform in character; and the regeneration rate is high. It is a vegetative propagation method with great application prospects. It can be used to multiply asexual lines of superior varieties; in addition, it also has practical value in the production of first-generation hybrid (F1) seeds.
III. To meet the need for flowers in different periods, the following methods are mainly used to control the flowering period:
1. Adjust the sowing period. By using the habit that seedlings have relatively strong tolerance to high temperatures, place them in a cool, ventilated environment so they do not go dormant in summer, thereby advancing the flowering period. Sowing can be done from December to early summer, and flowering occurs in about 12 months. The sowing time can be determined according to the required flowering period.
2. Control environmental factors to make the plant delay or advance dormancy, or to make dormant tubers break or extend dormancy. For example, for flowering plants about to enter dormancy, applying additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, shading appropriately, and placing them in a cool, ventilated place at 25°C can allow them to continue flowering until June-July.
3. Use certain volatile chemical agents to break or promote dormancy of the bulbs, thereby controlling the flowering period. For example, injecting aqueous solutions of ether, camphor, etc. into the buds or fumigating with them can break dormancy. For example, in a sealed space of 1000 cubic meters, place 0.5 cm of ether and treat for 24-48 hours; cyclamen tubers quickly break dormancy, resume growth, and flower earlier. For another example, placing a cloth ball soaked with ester solutions such as ethyl naphthaleneacetate or ethyl phenylcarbamate beside a cyclamen tuber about to sprout can keep the tuber from sprouting for several weeks, thereby delaying the flowering period.
IV. Prevention and control of cyclamen pests and diseases
1. Soft rot is caused by Bacterium
aroideae and occurs under high temperature and high humidity in summer. It harms leaf stalks and flower stalks, causing water-soaked softening; in dry weather the lesions dry up; in rainy weather they rot and smell foul. The pathogen overwinters in the soil. Control methods: first, the potting soil for planting must be thoroughly sterilized; second, during high summer temperatures, control water, do not apply nitrogen fertilizer, do not let the plant be injured, keep the air circulating, and shade appropriately; third, promptly remove diseased leaves and burn them, and spray with Bordeaux mixture.
2. Anthracnose is caused by the pathogen Glomerella
rufomaculans. The lesions are tea-brown, round, and sunken; later the lesions expand and bear black conidia; the spores disperse and infect via water. Control methods: remove affected leaves and leaf stalks and burn them; avoid wetting the leaves when watering; in the early stage of disease, spray with a 500-600 times dilution of 50% carbendazim.
3. Nematode disease is caused by parasitism by the cyst nematode (Heterodelaradicicola). Soil temperatures of 25-30°C and soil moisture of about 40% favor nematode damage; they invade the roots and form root galls. Affected plants grow weakly, lower leaves turn yellow, and the whole plant may even wither and die. Control methods: soil sterilization; burn affected plants; soaking in hot water at 50°C for 10 minutes can kill nematodes.
4. Aphids cause leaves to curl, leaf stalks to bend, growth to be hindered, and flowers to fail to open. They can be controlled with a 1500 times dilution of dimethoate. Red spider mites are also seen causing damage; spray with a 1500 times dilution of dicofol.
17. Narcissus
In the cold winter months, narcissus can, in a dish of clear water, unfold green leaves and produce elegant, fragrant flowers. Adorning an indoor table, it brings people vitality and a feeling of spring.
According to Chinese flower introductions: narcissus cultivation methods include soil culture, sand culture, water culture, and carving and shaping. The cultivation requirements are not high; as long as the temperature is kept at around 15°C, with ample sunlight, frequent watering, and regular water changes, it can bloom in 25-30 days. But a few points should be noted:
1. The temperature must not exceed 25°C, otherwise it stops growing and enters dormancy, causing the flower buds to turn yellow, shrivel, and dry up;
2. Sunlight must be sufficient, otherwise the leaves will grow into garlic leaves;
3. The water used must be clean, otherwise water deterioration will cause pollution and root rot.
Narcissus has a special growth characteristic: its flowering date can be decided by people themselves. If you want it to bloom during the Spring Festival, you can plant the bulb (narcissus head) in a pot about 20-300 days before the Spring Festival; after potting, it begins to grow until flowering. Several cultivation methods are introduced below:
Soil culture
For soil culture, the soil should be loose leaf mold. Before planting, peel off the dry, dead bulb scales on the outside of the narcissus head and scrape off the old roots, then add leaf mold to 3 cm below the pot rim. Hold the pot with both hands and shake it to make the leaf mold compact, then set the narcissus bulb base in the pot, continue adding soil for about 1 cm, then water thoroughly, and place the pot in a cool place. After 5 days, when the bulb base has grown roots, place the pot in a sunny place to grow. For soil culture, watering should follow the principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet: do not water if the soil is not dry, and once you water, water until it leaks from the bottom of the pot. Watering should be done in the morning or evening, otherwise it will damage root growth.
Sand culture
For sand culture, it is best to use clean, washed fine sand, and the pot should also be a breathable clay pot. Before planting, first put sand into the pot to 3 cm below the pot rim, then set the narcissus head, with old stem scales and old roots removed, into the pot filled with fine sand, and add about 1 cm more sand so that the lower stem of the narcissus head is buried about 1 cm in the sand. Then water thoroughly and place in a cool place. After 5 days, put it in a sunny place until it blooms. When planting narcissus heads in sand, water thoroughly every day; failure to water in time will cause water deficiency and affect flower root growth. Watering should also be arranged in the morning or evening.
Water culture
Before water culture, also peel off the old stem scales and old roots cleanly, then place into the narcissus pot for cultivation, add water to about 1 cm at the lower bulb of the narcissus head, and place in a cool place. After the bulb base grows roots, place it in a sunny place until flowering. For water-cultured narcissus, it is best to change the water every day. On one hand, this prevents water deterioration and pollution from causing root rot; on the other hand, changing the water every day keeps the water clean and the roots grown white and beautiful.
Narcissus carving and shaping
In order to make the flowers and leaves grow in varied, graceful forms, the flower head needs to be carved. The specific method is: first peel off the dry, dead scales on the outside of the bulb and scrape off the old roots, then carve. When carving, first observe the growth tendency of the buds, use the curved side as the carving surface, then use a small pointed knife to gently make a horizontal cut from left to right on the bulb 2 cm from the root base, then make one vertical cut on each of the left and right sides, then peel off the scales layer by layer within the range of the horizontal and vertical cuts. At the same time, dig out the scales between the buds until the leaves and pale yellow flower scapes are exposed; then the leaves can be curled. Next, shape the flower scape: use a small knife to scrape a line from top to bottom above the flower scape and below the flower bud, or use a needle to prick the flower scape several times from top to bottom; the growth of the flower scape will then become abnormal and likewise bend toward the wounded side. According to the requirements of different shapes, the degree and position of scraping also differ. After carving and shaping, the narcissus head should be promptly soaked in water with the wounded surface facing down to remove the sticky liquid secreted from the wound, changing the water every day, soaking for about 2-3 days. Once the sticky liquid has been cleaned off, take it out and cover the bulb base (root base) with absorbent cotton. Then place it with the carved surface facing up into the narcissus pot, add water, and place in a cool place to grow. Change the water once a day to keep the water clean. When the bulb base has grown about 1 cm, place the narcissus pot in a sunny place to grow. Remember that during cultivation the temperature should not exceed 20°C, change the water frequently once a day, spray water frequently 1-2 times a day, and provide regular sunlight; the flowers cultivated this way will be luxuriant, fragrant, and graceful in form.;