Can Variegated Confederate Jasmine Actually Root in Water?

1. Water propagation from cuttings.

Variegated Confederate Jasmine usually grows and reproduces in soil, but because its nodes and stems produce aerial roots, it can also be propagated by rooting in water. When propagating in water, choose a mature Variegated Confederate Jasmine plant, cut off side shoots that have root hairs growing on the stems and vines, then insert them into a container filled with clean water. After a few days, the thin, weak root hairs will thicken and multiply, proving that the water propagation was successful.

2. Water propagation by washing the roots.

Variegated Confederate Jasmine can also be moved into water propagation by the potted root-washing method. Root washing for potted plants, as the name suggests, means digging out the Variegated Confederate Jasmine from its pot, washing the soil off the roots with water, and then placing it in a container filled with water for cultivation. Because Variegated Confederate Jasmine has very strong growth ability, in most cases root-washing water propagation will succeed.

The above is an introduction to the water propagation methods for Variegated Confederate Jasmine. Below, the editor will explain the points to note when growing Variegated Confederate Jasmine in water.

Hydroponic Flower Knowledge | The Complete Guide to Hydroponic Flower Knowledge

Hydroponic Flower Knowledge | The Complete Guide to Hydroponic Flower Knowledge

Ten Questions on Hydroponic Flower Techniques

1. Which flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages does it have?

Answer: In theory, any flower can be grown hydroponically, but different types of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need water control to promote flowering may have their flowering affected under hydroponic conditions, and some plants that are sensitive to lack of oxygen need air pumped into the nutrient solution at regular intervals to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different types of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so a suitable nutrient solution formula must be used. Therefore, flowers and plants must undergo proper acclimation and adaptation before they can be grown hydroponically. There are many plants suitable for hydroponics, including Gol
den Tree (Pachira aquatica), Money Tree (Pachira aquatica), Peperomia (Peperomia), Sun God (Sansevieria), Calathea (Maranta), Little Angel (Philodendron), Marianne (Dieffenbachia), Shanhaidai (Aspidistra), Golden Barrel Cactus (Echinocactus grusonii) and other cactus balls, as well as Jewel Orchid (Anoectochilus), Snake Plant (Sansevieria) and so on. Hydroponic flowers can go a long time without watering and fertilizing, have no foreign leaves, are clean and hygienic, beautiful and elegant, and are the first choice for home beautification and greening.

2. What substances are contained in the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?

Answer: The hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the essential nutrient elements needed for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, fluorine and so on. It is a colorless, odorless, non-toxic product, please use it with confidence.

3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two concentrated solutions?

Answer: The main reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is that when the concentration of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc and copper in the nutrient solution is too high, they will precipitate each other and make the nutrients ineffective. Therefore, in order to ensure an adequate and balanced supply of nutrients, these non-toxic compounds cannot be mixed together in the concentrated nutrient solution. So, if the hydroponic nutrient solution currently sold on the market is only one type, the nutrients are often unbalanced.

4. Is more nutrient solution in the hydroponic flower container always better?

Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth of the flower's root system, and it cannot be too much. Generally, when the root system is relatively well developed, part of the root system should be left exposed to the air above the liquid surface, so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air, which is very good for the healthy growth of the root system. Never add too much nutrient solution to the container, but it also should not be too little; if there is too little, the nutrient solution needs to be replenished frequently, causing inconvenience in management. Usually, maintaining a nutrient solution layer about 5-10 cm deep is enough.

5. Do household hydroponic flowers need sunlight?

Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If they are shade-loving species, they should not be exposed to direct sunlight, but because hydroponic flowers placed in the home are usually in an environment with poor light, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed on a balcony with slightly stronger light at regular intervals. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day a week is enough.

6. Do hydroponic flowers require a different nutrient solution for each type of flower?

Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every type of flower requires a corresponding nutrient solution. It is enough to choose different nutrient solutions according to different major categories. Of course, a general-purpose nutrient solution can also be used. At present, the Soilless Cultivation Technology Research Laboratory of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage type, indoor plant type, orchid type, and flowering type.

7. Can flowers grown in soil not be directly converted to hydroponics?

Answer: Converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics must go through a series of treatments. First, take out the soil-grown flowers and wash the root system; then soak the roots in a hydroponic root treatment solution for about 20 minutes before placing them in a hydroponic container for hydroponics.

8. Do fish kept together with flowers need to be fed?

Answer: No feeding is needed. This is because most of the small fish kept together with flowers only need to absorb plankton and root secretions from the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If they are fed, it is instead easy to cause the fish to overeat and die. At the same time, adding feed also easily makes the nutrient solution cloudy, and the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution decreases, affecting the growth of both flowers and fish.

9. When growing hydroponic flowers, how should the nutrient solution be replenished or replaced?

Answer: This depends on the speed at which the plant consumes water. If the weather is dry and the plant is relatively large, generally the nutrient solution needs to be replenished about once every 15-20 days, and adding an appropriate amount of nutrient solution at that time is enough. When replenishing the nutrient solution, never add too much; only add about 1/3-1/2 of the container depth.

10. What is the shelf life of the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?

Answer: The shelf life of the concentrated solution for hydroponic flowers is almost unlimited, but generally do not use any that has been stored for more than 5 years. When storing the concentrated nutrient solution, keep it away from light as much as possible, and do not place it where children can reach it.
Talking About Home Hydroponic Flower Experience

As an environmentally friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-grown flowers: 1) Water replaces soil, no odor, clean and hygienic. 2) No need to change pots or loosen soil, which can reduce the labor of growing flowers. 3) Light in weight, can be moved anytime and anywhere. 4) Flexible in material selection, can be reasonably matched according to indoor decoration. 5) Fewer harmful microorganisms in the water, high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can remain stable above 80%.

1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Many years of practice have proven that foliage plants are the first choice for household hydroponic flowers, such as Guangdong Evergreen (Aglaonema), Variegated Evergreen (Dieffenbachia), Monstera (Monstera deliciosa), Alocasia (Alocasia), Pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), Asparagus Fern (Asparagus setaceus), Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Aloe (Aloe), Spiderwort (Tradescantia), Inch Plant (Tradescantia zebrina), Coleus (Coleus), Brazil Wood (Dracaena fragrans), Miniature Coconut Palm (Chamaedorea elegans), Hibiscus (Hibiscus), Fuchsia (Fuchsia) and so on. In addition, Scarlet Sage (Salvia splendens), Azalea (Rhododendron), Camellia (Camellia), Cyclamen (Cyclamen), Amaryllis (Hippeastrum), Calla Lily (Zantedeschia), Crown of Thorns (Euphorbia milii), Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), Hyacinth (Hyacinthus) and other flowering plants have good results when grown hydroponically. Sword Fern (Nephrolepis), Calendula (Calendula), Petunia (Petunia), Redback Excoecaria (Excoecaria cochinchinensis) and others have a low survival rate as hydroponic flowers.

2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials. 1) Containers. Any beautiful container that can hold water can be used. It is best to use transparent containers, such as beverage bottles (cut off the narrow neck), wine glasses, teacups, vases, fish tanks, etc. The opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, and texture of the container should be coordinated with the hydroponic flowers. It is best to clean and disinfect them before use. 2) Bedding materials. Bedding materials are often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container, mainly to stabilize the plant, such as pebbles, yellow sand, perlite, etc. Small pebbles with an elegant appearance and various shapes are best. They should also be cleaned and disinfected before use.

3. Time for hydroponics. Spring and autumn are most suitable for hydroponics, but it also varies with flower species. If the indoor temperature is 15°C-28°C, foliage plants can be grown hydroponically all year round. Flowering plants are best grown hydroponically when the first flower bud is about to open. For example, Cyclamen, Hyacinth, Azalea, Camellia, etc. are often grown hydroponically in early January, so that the full bloom period falls during the Spring Festival, giving people the joy of spring warmth and blooming flowers.

4. Acquisition and treatment of hydroponic materials. 1) Root-washing method. Select a potted plant with a full shape, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases, remove it from the pot and remove the soil, wash the soil off the roots with water close to room temperature, and cut off roots that have decayed and aged? If the fibrous roots are dense, about 1/3 can be cut off, but care should be taken to avoid damaging new roots. Then soak the roots in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes? This both sterilizes and disinfects, and can also promote new root growth. After that, proceed with hydroponics. This method is mostly used for larger plants and flowers that are difficult to root. 2) Water-cutting method. Select current-year sturdy, disease-free semi-lignified branches, cut them off and insert them into water for hydroponics. The cut is usually made two or three millimeters below the stem node. The cut should be smoothed with a sharp knife? rinsed beforehand with white liquor for disinfection, and the lower leaves of the branch should be removed. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a black plastic bag around a transparent container to help the cuttings root. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.

5. Water used for hydroponics and water changes. 1) Water. Mountain spring water is the best, as its water quality is clean, pollution-free, non-precipitating, and contains a variety of trace elements necessary for plant growth. Boiled water that has cooled is second best. It is best not to use tap water, because it contains many impurities and easily precipitates, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial to flower growth. 2) Water changes. Due to normal plant growth and metabolism, after a period of hydroponics, the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed, and at the same time the root system produces mucus, so the water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning. Much of the nutrient solution added to the water has also been absorbed by the plant, and too much residual unabsorbed elements can also harm the flowers. Therefore, the water must be changed regularly. Changes in water quality are directly related to temperature. Spring and autumn are the peak growth periods for flowers, so change the water once every 7-10 days; in summer, change the water once every 4-6 days; in winter, change the water once every 15-20 days. Each time you change the water, wash off the mucus on the roots and cut off aged roots and rotten roots. The height of the added water should be level with the root crown; too deep easily causes oxygen deficiency and root rot, while too shallow easily causes the root system to lack water and affects growth.

6. Addition of hydroponic nutrient solution. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, about half a month after hydroponics begins, new roots will appear. Along with the growth of the flower plant, nutrient solution must be continuously added in conjunction with water changes. Different types of flower nutrient solutions can be purchased on the market as needed. It must be noted that: 1) The various nutrient solutions purchased are stock solutions and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies with different flower species, so the instructions should be read carefully. 2) Various special nutrient solutions must be used only for their intended purpose, avoiding mismatches. For example, if orchid nutrient solution is applied to Clivia, it will cause Clivia not to bloom or to bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period; simply changing the water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also gives good results, such as Pothos and Variegated Evergreen.

Techniques for the Prevention and Control of Diseases and Pests in Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne diseases and pests, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, and it can still be harmed by diseases and pests in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing them to suffer varying degrees of disease. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, had their roots washed, and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, larvae, etc., and if these are not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Because of the particularity of their display environment, once static hydroponic flowers suffer from pests or diseases, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor to use large doses of fungicides to sterilize. Although these drugs can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment.

Prevention should be the main approach to possible pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible plants that are robust, growing luxuriantly, and free of pests and diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, manual capture can be used, or they can be washed off with tap water. Infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers are not common; only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular round wet stain-like lesions, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by pathogen infection; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot, stuffy high-temperature weather in summer, cold winter, dry climate, scorching sun, poorly ventilated environment, excessive shading, nutrient solution concentration that is too high, or inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and the lower leaves to yellow and fall off. When the temperature is too high in midsummer, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot likely, and this is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should detached and root-rotted static hydroponic flowers be cared for? Due to improper management, or root rot caused by oxygen deficiency in the root system, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become detached and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers that have become detached and root-rotted, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still intact upper branch 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As long as the detached lower branch does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, at which point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky Bamboo, Pothos, Rainbow Ti Plant, Arrowhead Plant and others can all use this method.

The Complete Home Hydroponic Flower Manual

Four Methods to Obtain Hydroponic Plants

1. Remove flowers grown in soil or other organic substrates, or in inorganic substrates, from their pots, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and change to static hydroponics with nutrient solution.

2. Use flower branches as cuttings, insert them directly into still water, and after rooting, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) as they grow, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as Spider Plant and Billbergia; these small plantlets can be picked off and directly grown hydroponically.

4. For flowers that grow many tiller buds, such as Clivia and Bromeliads, the method of peeling off rooted tiller buds can be used for hydroponics.

How to Prepare Hydroponic Nutrient Solution

Household static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must have three basic conditions:

1. Choose plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, that retain aquatic genetic genes, for use as static hydroponic flowers.

2. Choose cultivation containers that match the size and style of the hydroponic flowers, are leak-proof, and have no bottom holes.

3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with ion-balanced absorption (appropriate ratio) and complete elemental mineral nutrition necessary for the growth of flowers and plants. The recommended formula is as follows:

(1) Macroelements: calcium nitrate 0.27 g, potassium nitrate 0.13 g, monopotassium phosphate 0.08 g, magnesium sulfate 0.13 g.

(2) Trace elements: disodium edetate 8.0 mg, ferrous sulfate 5.0 mg, manganese sulfate 1.4 mg, boric acid 2.0 mg, zinc sulfate 0.07 mg, copper sulfate 0.04 mg, sodium molybdate 0.09 mg. (3) Purified water: 1 liter (1000 milliliters).

The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC is <0.5 mm/cm.

Cultivate the selected flowers in a vessel, pour in the hydroponic nutrient solution, and cultivate them; they then become a static hydroponic flower with a distinctive charm.

When preparing the nutrient solution, it is best to use purified water. Of course, generally drinking tap water can also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. They have both undergone strict treatment and are clean and hygienic, meeting the requirements of sterile (low-bacteria) cultivation. However, full attention must be paid to the fact that purified water has fewer impurities and pathogens, and basically does not contain the nutrient elements necessary for plants, while tap water, as the components in the water source change, contains nutrient elements in unstable forms. Therefore, the nutrient solution prepared with purified water has a stable and consistent composition, while the nutrient solution prepared with tap water has an unstable composition.

Liquid chlorine is used when disinfecting tap water. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flowers and plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Let out the tap water, store it in a relatively large-diameter bucket for several days, and stir it several times with a wooden stick to remove the chlorine. If water is urgently needed for changing the water, 3 to 5 grains of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as hypo) can be added to 10 kg of tap water and stirred evenly, which can also achieve a chlorine removal effect.

Most foliage flowers like a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance of alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the pH of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which can facilitate the flowers' absorption of trace elements, keep physiological metabolism undisturbed, allow normal growth, and keep the leaves green.

How to Carry Out Foliar Fertilization

Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under root oxygen deficiency conditions, which can cause certain defects in the normal development of the flowers. In order to improve the quality of the flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves. A fine-hole watering can should be used, and as far as possible the fertilizer solution should not be lost; the undersides of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growth period, and it can make hydroponic flowers flourish with lush branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as Peace Lily, Four-Season Begonia, Cane Begonia, Calla Lily, etc., during the bud stage, a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week until the flowers open.

Temperature Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponic flowers only change one method of flower cultivation; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flowers used in static hydroponics mostly originate in Latin American rainforests, or in tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded ravine areas, and are cold-intolerant flower plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer cold damage, with scorched leaf edges, yellowing old leaves, and wilting and falling off. Under static hydroponic conditions, this phenomenon will also occur. Some flowers are relatively cold-tolerant, such as Ivy, Periwinkle, and Senecio, and grow normally at 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, the leaves of some flowers lose their luster, growth becomes sluggish, and brown scorch-like spots appear on the leaf margins, showing a heat-intolerant dormant state, such as Cane Begonia, Four-Season Begonia, and Coleus. Above 30°C, root rot is common in static hydroponics; of course, this is also related to the fact that dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution decreases as temperature rises. Controlling the temperature at 15°C to 28°C is suitable for various static hydroponic flowers. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each type of flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.

Light Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant, shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the flower leaves cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as Coleus and Croton, will lose the color of their leaves in a low-light environment and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light that is not exposed to strong direct light can such flowers maintain their leaf color and luster.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of placed flowers should be rotated at regular intervals. This work can be completed together with cleaning the vessel and changing the nutrient solution. After the root system is washed, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, which will prevent the flower from growing leaning to one side and keep the top shoot upright and growing upward.

Humid Environment and Good Ventilation

Most foliage flowers originate from warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment for them to grow well. A simple method is to spray the flower leaves (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to the balcony or outdoors for the operation, and move the flowers back indoors after spraying). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets stick to the leaf surface and do not run down. For relatively firm flower leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera and Clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin of clean water can be placed beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers are placed indoors, and if doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is turbid, it is unfavorable to their growth. Especially when people go to work and leave home during the day, if doors and windows are not opened and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth will become worse and worse, producing yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. Places where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened at regular intervals to form air convection, allowing fresh outside air to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can, of course, achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which will cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with relatively thin leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing the dissolved oxygen content. They should be ventilated in a timely manner, which is beneficial to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers displayed especially need this work done well.

Pest and Disease Control for Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne diseases and pests, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, and it can still be harmed by diseases and pests in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing them to suffer varying degrees of disease. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, had their roots washed, and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, larvae, etc., and if these are not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Because of the particularity of their display environment, once static hydroponic flowers suffer from pests or diseases, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor to use large doses of fungicides to sterilize. Although these drugs can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment.

Prevention should be the main approach to possible pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible plants that are robust, growing luxuriantly, and free of pests and diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, manual capture can be used, or they can be washed off with tap water. Infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers are not common; only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular round wet stain-like lesions, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.

Non-infectious diseases are not caused by pathogen infection; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot, stuffy high-temperature weather in summer, cold winter, dry climate, scorching sun, poorly ventilated environment, excessive shading, nutrient solution concentration that is too high, or inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and the lower leaves to yellow and fall off. When the temperature is too high in midsummer, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot likely, and this is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should detached and root-rotted static hydroponic flowers be cared for? Due to improper management, or root rot caused by oxygen deficiency in the root system, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become detached and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers that have become detached and root-rotted, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still intact upper branch 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As long as the detached lower branch does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, at which point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky Bamboo, Pothos, Rainbow Ti Plant, Arrowhead Plant and others can all use this method.

How Many Hydroponic Flowers Are Suitable for Display

Cultivating hydroponic flowers indoors can help regulate mood, beautify the environment, and also purify the air. Properly displaying a few plants is beneficial. If the room area is not large and too many flowers are displayed, it will cause flowers and people to compete for oxygen at night. So how many flowers is suitable to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered appropriate to plant one or two kinds of flowers per 10 sq m of room area. Calculating by this standard, for a room of 50 sq m to 60 sq m, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of varying sizes can satisfy viewing needs without causing flowers and people to compete for oxygen at night.

How to Choose Hydroponic Flower Materials in Winter

Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people for their clean, beautiful, and easy-to-care-for characteristics. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, you must pay attention to the following four "musts":

First, you must choose flower types suitable for hydroponics. If you buy types that are not suitable for hydroponics and grow them in water, they will soon gradually die because the roots rot. Aquatic plants, wetland plants, and a group of relatively drought-intolerant terrestrial plants are all more suitable for hydroponics, such as Umbrella Plant, Arrowhead Plant, Pothos, Philodendron, Inch Plant, Lucky Bamboo, etc.

Second, you must choose flower types with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, they need relatively high temperatures to overwinter, and it is difficult for ordinary households to overwinter them safely, so they are prone to cold damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with a little cold protection include Monstera, Purple-Leaf Spiderwort, Aloe, Spider Plant, Umbrella Plant, Miniature Coconut Palm, Palm Grass, etc.

Third, you must choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors take soil-grown flowers out of the soil and, after washing the soil off the roots, immediately supply them to the flower market. Although such flower materials may look normal, they still need to go through an adaptation process before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so they must be carefully identified when purchasing. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or stem base.

Fourth, you must choose robust plants free of pests and diseases. Plants with upright, spirited branches and leaves and full, glossy leaves are conducive to showing the ornamental effect that the flowers should have.

Advantages of Hydroponics

1. Simple daily management

The daily management of "Hydroponic Flower King" hydroponic flowers is very simple. Apart from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the vigorous growth period of plants in spring and summer, and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, they do not need extra care. Usually, you only need to spray water on the leaves in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaves, wipe them with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. It saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil, and watering daily, and is very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.

2. Clean and stylish

Because hydroponic flowers are completely removed from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-bacteria nutrient solution environment, they will not, like soil-grown flowers, pollute our living environment with pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil, making our homes safer, cleaner, and more reassuring. Moreover, because they are removed from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, vessels, and materials to plant them. We can not only appreciate the flowers and leaves, but also appreciate the normally unseen process of root growth and their varied beauty, which is very neat and stylish.

3. Many suitable varieties, and the technology is easy to master and operate

Because the technology for adapting plant roots from a soil-grown environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, "Hydroponic Flower King" does not need to be cultivated through planting baskets to produce water roots, nor does it need early-stage computer or electric field mutagenesis. Only very simple technical treatment is needed, and soil-grown roots can quickly transform into water roots. Anyone can grow vigorous, lush hydroponic flowers. This greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives the product greater profit space, and increases the product's competitiveness in the market; at the same time, because production costs are lower, more people can enjoy the lifestyle fashion brought by new technology, rapidly expanding market share. Because planting baskets are not used, hydroponic flowers become more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater will change the concentration and pH value of the nutrient solution, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for outdoor cultivation. In this way, some light-loving plants are relatively difficult to grow hydroponically indoors at home, but common shade-loving and semi-shade-loving flowers can basically all be successfully grown hydroponically. The number of tested varieties has currently reached nearly 400. If you have a sunlight or artificially regulated greenhouse, then in theory any plant can be grown hydroponically, only with different degrees of difficulty.

4. Green and environmentally friendly, can keep flowers and fish together

"Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic ingredients, so fish and flowers can be kept together for a long time without any side effects harmful to the flowers or fish. The fish in our specialty store still grow well after long-term rearing, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants, with very good results as well. Practice has proven that it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special ingredients, the nutrient solution is not prone to breeding mosquitoes. Moreover, when you change the water, if you pour the discarded nutrient solution into the soil of your home's potted flowers, there will be even more unexpected surprises. Practice has proven that "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and environmentally friendly nutrient solution, and its effect is very obvious.

Selection of Hydroponic Flower Types

The growth and development of flowers require suitable conditions such as water, oxygen, nutrients, light, and temperature. The water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as the light and temperature are suitable and the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in a timely manner, the flowers can grow normally in water.

Due to differences in flower ecological habits and tissue structure, different flowers have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have air-conducting tissue in their bodies, and the oxygen produced by these plants during photosynthesis can be sent through the air-conducting tissue to the root system for respiration; some flowers have aerial roots at the stem nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen needed by the plant from the air; some flowers, although they do not have air-conducting tissue and oxygen-absorbing aerial roots, are very well adapted to hydroponic conditions. But if the oxygen content in the water cannot meet the needs of some flowers for normal growth and development, then such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to succeed in hydroponics, you must choose flower types that can adapt to hydroponic conditions, and never cultivate blindly, so as to avoid failure in hydroponics.

Flower Types Adapted to Hydroponics

Araceae

Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When propagated by water cuttings, most can root within a relatively short time and grow rapidly, quickly forming a plant shape with a certain ornamental value; after soil-grown plants are washed with water, most of their original roots can adapt to the hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers adapted to hydroponics include Pothos, Guangdong Evergreen, Dieffenbachia, Silver King, Golden Queen, clustered Philodendron, Mini Monstera, Monstera, Peace Lily, Green Emerald, Philodendron, Philodendron panduriforme, Green Emperor Philodendron, Arrowhead Plant, Alocasia, Anthurium, Emerald Gem, etc.

Commelinaceae

Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as Purple-Leaf Spiderwort, Purple-Back Evergreen, Lophatherum, Inch Plant, etc., all of which can root and grow rapidly in water cuttings.

Liliaceae

The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as Aloe, Triangular Aloe, Haworthia, Spider Plant, Ti Plant, Dragon Blood Tree, Cordyline, Snake Plant, Agave, Golden-Edge Lucky Bamboo, Sea Onion, Silver-Edge Evergreen, Silver-Edge Ophiopogon, etc.

Crassulaceae

Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively adapted to hydroponic conditions, such as Aeonium, Lotus Palm, Silver Wave Sedum, Gem Plant, Mother of Thousands, etc.

In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics include Aucuba, Umbrella Plant, Coleus, Purple Velvet Plant, Blue Pine, Cane Begonia, Ox Ear Begonia, Green Emerald, Clivia, Paphiopedilum, Croton, Dusty Miller, Senecio, Pereskia, Triangular Bamboo, Billbergia, Cryptanthus, Chloranthus, Confederate Jasmine, Dragon Bone, Euphorbia, Variegated Periwinkle, Redback Excoecaria, Four Seas Wave, Ivy, English Ivy, Palm Grass, Miniature Coconut Palm, etc.

When choosing hydroponic flower types, in addition to considering whether they can adapt to hydroponic conditions, you should also pay attention to the following factors:

Although some flowers are very well adapted to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high temperature requirements for overwintering. For example, some species of the Dieffenbachia genus and Croton require overwintering temperatures above 15°C; Pothos, Arrowhead Plant, Golden-Edge Lucky Bamboo, and Dracaena types also require overwintering temperatures above 10°C. Of course, this will not be a problem for rooms heated in winter, but for most households, it is still very difficult to let these flowers safely pass through the cold winter. Although some flowers will not cause the entire plant to die after overwintering, due to the effects of low-temperature cold damage, the plant's leaves will become wilted and listless, lose their proper luster, turn yellow, have scorched leaf tips or margins, or develop new scorched spots on the leaves, and may even cause a large number of leaves to fall or part of the branches and leaves to die, thereby losing their ornamental value. Therefore, when there are no stable heating conditions, you must pay attention to choosing flower types with relatively strong cold resistance. Flowers suitable for hydroponics in ordinary households include:

Flowers with strong cold resistance

Such as Evergreen, Confederate Jasmine, Palm Grass, Agave, Aucuba, Gem Plant, Sea Onion, Variegated Ophiopogon, etc., which can tolerate low temperatures around 0°C.

Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance

Such as Monstera, Purple-Leaf Spiderwort, Lophatherum, Aloe, Spider Plant, Silver Wave Sedum, Umbrella Plant, Purple Velvet Plant, Dusty Miller, Chloranthus, Euphorbia, Variegated Periwinkle, English Ivy, Miniature Coconut Palm, etc., which can overwinter safely with a little protection during winter.

Of course, some flowers such as Red Emerald Philodendron, Green Emerald Philodendron, Arrowhead Plant, Pothos, Snake Plant, Croton, etc., although relatively difficult to overwinter safely, are easy to obtain, grow rapidly, and have high ornamental value, so they can also be considered for purchase and cultivation when spring is warm.

Shade Tolerance

Because indoor light conditions are relatively poor, it is advisable to choose flower types that like semi-shade or tolerate semi-shade. At the same time, even shade-loving or semi-shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity. For example, Croton, Purple-Leaf Spiderwort, and Inch Plant need sufficient scattered light, but Peace Lily, Green Giant, Guangdong Evergreen, and Silver King all have very strong shade tolerance. Because different rooms and different lighting conditions within a room vary, suitable flower types should be selected according to the lighting conditions of the placement position, so as to ensure normal flower growth and maintain good ornamental value. When light is insufficient, it will cause the plant's branches and leaves to grow leggy, the stems to become thin, the internodes to become longer, the leaves to become smaller and deformed, lose green color and lose their proper luster, and leaves with colored stripes to fade, or even cause a large number of leaves to fall, thereby seriously affecting the ornamental value of the flowers.

Techniques for Growing Spider Plant in Water

Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) has fresh green leaves shaped like orchid leaves, fresh and elegant, and is a common and popular household foliage plant. In addition, it has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.

1. Container: The container bottle can be single-layered or double-layered. For a single-layer bottle, take a bottomless plastic bottle or bottomless ceramic bottle and plant the spider plant in it. For a double-layer bottle, use a plastic sieve as the upper layer, and the lower bottle is a bottomless container; plant the spider plant in the upper plastic sieve, letting the spider plant roots hang down into the bottle.

2. Taking seedlings: Remove the potted or ground-planted spider plant from its pot or dig it up from the ground, remove the soil from the roots, wash the roots with clean water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, keep the fibrous roots, cut off some leaves (old leaves, diseased and pest-damaged leaves), keep healthy leaves, generally leaving 6 to 10 leaves.

3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle potting method, insert the prepared spider plant into the bottle, tightly secure the bottle mouth with sponge and insert a plastic straw, which is used for supplying water. Let the spider plant stand upright, fill the bottle with clean water and flower nutrient solution, and let the spider plant roots grow submerged in water. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the spider plant on the plastic sieve, with the roots passing through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle, place ceramic pellets or pebbles (large granules) in the sieve, let the spider plant stand upright, and fill the lower bottle with clean water and flower nutrient solution. After potting is complete, place the spider plant indoors or in a cool place for management.

4. Management:

① Water: For single-layer container bottle cultivation, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, with water input through the straw until full. For double-layer bottles, change the water once a week; when changing water, pour out the bottle water, wash the container bottle clean, fill with clean water and flower nutrient solution, then place the plastic sieve on top of the water bottle.

② Fertilizer: Nutrient solution is added simultaneously with water addition and water changing for the roots; for foliar feeding, spray diluted flower nutrient solution on the branches and leaves once every 3 days.

③ Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, spray the leaves with universal powder mixed with water.

④ Promoting flowering: Spider plant blooms half a year after potting. Do not spray water on the flowers when blooming, to prevent premature flower drop. After the flowers fade, cut them off from the branch tips to promote reblooming.

The standout of static hydroponics

Araceae plants have 105 genera and over 2500 species, originating in tropical Asia, arising in forest water areas or swamps. Through a long historical evolution, the vast majority have currently developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common excellent ornamental plants (genera) in Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia, Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, etc. Although the above genera are all terrestrial, they have extremely close kinship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves hygrophytic species, some have aerial roots, some easily produce adventitious roots, and some easily develop aerenchyma under stress conditions.
For terrestrial plants in static hydroponics, root respiration is in a severely oxygen-deficient state. The prerequisite for success is correctly selecting the plant species, that is, it has close kinship with aquatic plants. Araceae plants have a close kinship with aquatic plants, specifically manifested as:
One, Araceae plants evolved and developed centered on aquatic genetic genes. The new Engler system holds that the most primitive in Araceae is Acorus, and the most evolved is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or hygrophytic evergreen herb, the most primitive genus in Araceae, originating in the Old Tropics of the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago), and first arose in water environments. Pistia is found in freshwater waters of almost all continents of the Old and New Worlds, is the most evolved monotypic genus in Araceae, a floating plant relying on vegetative propagation, easy to migrate and spread, with very strong reproductive capacity. In addition, Araceae also includes famous aquatic species such as Acorus tatarinowii, Calla palustris and taro.
The evolved Pistia as an aquatic plant is not a simple repetition of the primitive Acorus, but a dialectical "negation of the negation," a repetition on a higher basis. Although the vast majority of species in Araceae grow on land, they all come from aquatic ancestors, forming in appearance a "negation" of the aquatic ancestors. And finally transforming into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia, this return is another "negation," which is the dialectical law of "negation of the negation." It shows that the two opposite poles of aquatic and terrestrial reach unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are the standouts of static hydroponics.
Two, Araceae belongs to Arales, which has only two families; the other family in the same order is the aquatic Lemnaceae, which are floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that Araceae and the aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor, and there is an extremely close kinship between them.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, along an approximately spiral curve.
Three, the relationship of Arales in plant classification systems: The Hutchinson system holds that Arales evolved from Liliales, and a few aquatic types in Liliales have a parallel development relationship with the paludal Najadales. The Takhtajan system holds that Arales shares a common ancestor with Arecales and Dasypogonales (primitive lily-like plants), and can be traced further back to Magnoliales. The Cronquist system holds that Arales has close kinship with Pandanales and Arecales, and shares a common ancestor with Liliales. From the above classification systems, it can be inferred that Arales has kinship correlation with Liliales, Arecales, etc., which contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, share a common ancestor with the aquatic Lemnaceae, and have kinship correlation with Liliales, Arecales, etc., which contain aquatic species. Therefore, containing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants the standouts of static hydroponics.

Judging and handling root rot in hydroponics

During hydroponics, plants often suffer root rot due to management and other reasons; for example, excessively low temperature, overly concentrated fertilizer, and diseases can all cause root rot, and root rot will deteriorate water quality and affect plant growth. To judge whether roots are rotten: first, smell the roots with your nose; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted; second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also be rotting and deteriorating; third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the root system turns yellow and discolors, it indicates the root system has been damaged. After the root system rots, gently pull at the root collar; the epidermis is very easily torn off, leaving only the lignified part.

After root rot appears, cut it off promptly. Generally, root rot gradually spreads upward from the root tip. After pruning, cut until normal roots are reached. After changing the water, pay attention to observation. If root rot continues to appear, handle it promptly.

Simple hydroponic facilities -- bottles and jars and cultivation management

Using waste containers, such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles, white polystyrene hard foam boxes (cases), etc., with slight adjustments, they can become hydroponic carriers of varying sizes and shapes. This not only adapts to local conditions and makes full use of materials, but can also green the surrounding environment, with quite a delightful return-to-nature charm.

One, Bottles and jars

1. Such as metal beverage cans, glass or plastic wide-mouth bottles, paper foil-laminated square beverage boxes, etc., which were originally used to hold liquids; as long as the original contents are rinsed clean, they can be set aside as hydroponic carriers.

2. Planting cup: According to the size of the selected container's mouth, choose a plastic cold drink cup that fits about 1/3 into the mouth, as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut a "#"-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup, so that the root system can extend through this cup bottom into the nutrient solution, while the plant's anchoring material will not leak out. The opening also serves a ventilation function.

3. Anchoring the plant: Prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (nonwoven cloth) about 8×12 cm, used for clothing lining. Gently rinse off the soil from the seedling to be hydroponically grown or from a purchased potted flower with soil, without damaging the root system. Wrap and roll the root system with the non-woven fabric, then wrap the outside with porous plastic sponge (cut scraps from shoulder pads for jackets or sofa and chair cushions, etc.), or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as insulation material; some is yellow, some is yellow with white) to thicken it, so that it can just be stuffed into the plastic planting cup to anchor the plant. If none of the above items are on hand, floral foam can also be appropriately cut to serve as anchoring material. Immerse the non-woven fabric roll wrapping the root system, together with the exposed root system, into the bottle or jar containing nutrient solution. It must be noted that the nutrient solution level should maintain a space distance of no less than 1 cm from the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to success or failure in hydroponics. By means of the capillary suction of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the root system as nutrients. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time, the distance between the liquid level and the bottom of the planting cup can be somewhat larger, about 3 cm.

4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, the bottle body must be covered with a light-blocking material to avoid direct sunlight causing algae growth that competes with the cultivated plants for nutrients. In summer, to prevent a large increase in liquid temperature caused by direct sun exposure, it is best to have shade measures, or place it where sunlight cannot directly shine.

Two, Boxes and cases

1. Box body: Usually white polystyrene hard foam boxes used for packaging and shock protection, or corrugated cardboard boxes, wooden boxes, etc. with a certain strength can all be used. Generally about 35×25×15 cm to 60×40×16 cm. If the box bottom (body) has holes, they can be leveled with wooden boards or foam boards. Line the inside of the box with black agricultural film to prevent nutrient solution leakage. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is opaque, the film can be omitted. If there is no black film, other films can also be substituted.

2. Upper cover: The upper cover also serves as the planting board. Find a polystyrene foam board the same area as the box, about 2.5 cm thick, to serve as the upper cover and planting board. Cut a certain number of planting holes about 6 cm in diameter in the board. As with bottles and jars, it is only necessary that the selected plastic cold drink cup can be placed in it while exposing about 1/2 of the cup height. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6?16 holes. In addition, on the side of the upper cover, near the inner side of the box body, cut a small hole 2 cm in diameter for routine observation of the nutrient solution level and addition of nutrient solution.

3. Planting cup: Material selection and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.

4. Floating board: Take a polystyrene foam board 2.5?3 cm thick and with all four sides 2.5?3 cm smaller than the net area inside the box as the floating board. Cut some small holes 1?2 cm in diameter regularly on it, to increase the air content of the floating board and facilitate the root system extending into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm dry thickness), or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25?50 g/sq m non-woven fabric on the floating board, to serve as capillary suction for the nutrient solution. If these things really cannot be obtained, medical sterilized absorbent gauze can also be substituted. The area of the capillary suction cotton layer is about 6 cm larger on all four sides than the floating board, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang freely from all four sides of the floating board (like an apron) and immerse into the nutrient solution to absorb it by capillary action, thereby ensuring that a moist layer with nutrient solution forms on the floating board. The plant root system can extend freely on the floating board, contacting air more directly. Another part of the root system can still extend through the four edges of the floating board, or through the small holes in the floating board, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can compensate for the unfavorable environment of general static hydroponics, which cannot circulate nutrient solution and oxygenate.

5. Cultivation management:

(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. At the time of initial planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven fabric root roll extending from the planting cup, so that the nutrient solution can be absorbed upward by capillary action. The highest liquid level must leave a certain space in the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3?5 cm due to plant absorption and transpiration, nutrient solution should be added until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.

(2) When the nutrients in the nutrient solution change greatly, or when there is precipitation, turbidity, foul odor, or pathogenic infection, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, up to complete replacement.

Hydroponic flowers' requirements for a humid environment and good ventilation

The original habitats of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to mist the flower leaves. (To prevent the sprayed water mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, and after spraying, move the flowers back indoors for display.) When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle, so that the sprayed mist droplets adhere to the leaf surface and do not run down. For relatively firm flower leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera and clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin filled with clean water can be placed beside the flowers; the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers placed indoors, if doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is stale, will be adversely affected in growth. Especially when people leave home for work during the day, do not open doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains; in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the needed light nor fresh air, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and growth will become worse and worse, producing yellowing and falling leaves, and new shoots that are thin and shriveled. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection, allowing outside fresh air to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course reach the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which will cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with relatively thin leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be carried out in a timely manner; this is beneficial to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers on display especially need to do this work well.

Light requirements of hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly selects relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period; some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light requirements can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the flower leaves cannot carry out normal photosynthesis and cannot accumulate enough nutrients, resulting in poor growth. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of their leaves in a relatively weak-light environment and become dull and lusterless. Such flowers can maintain leaf color and luster only in an environment with relatively sufficient light but without strong direct light.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of placed flowers should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined with cleaning the containers and changing the nutrient solution. Turn the flower, after root cleaning, 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and growing upward.

How hydroponic flowers safely overwinter

How hydroponic flowers overwinter

Generally, flowers go dormant below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and tissues will become necrotic below 0 degrees Celsius. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely. In winter in the south, indoor temperatures generally do not fall below 5 degrees Celsius. If there are a few days of extreme low-temperature weather, this can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate. In the north, because most indoors have heating, this can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.

Why hydroponic flowers need water changing

Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer; at the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more. Therefore, after a period of growth, hydroponic flowers need to be given new nutrient solution. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers needing fertilization and one soil change each year. For hydroponic flowers, the water-changing interval should be shorter during the vigorous growing spring and summer, and longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

Hydroponic method for cyclamen

Growing cyclamen in water only began to appear in Europe in the last one or two years. Because this cultivation method frees cyclamen from traditional flower pots and substrate, it is both clean and beautiful, and can give blooming cyclamen plants multiple cultivation and application forms. As soon as it appeared on the market, it won enthusiastic welcome from consumers. In fact, hydroponic cyclamen is not difficult. First, choose a satisfactory cyclamen potted flower, and prepare the container to be used for hydroponic cyclamen. With the preparation work complete, you can begin making hydroponic cyclamen. For hydroponic cyclamen, remove the purchased cyclamen potted flower together with the substrate (flower soil) from the pot, place it under a faucet and rinse the substrate clean with a relatively gentle stream of water. You can also place the plant together with the substrate in a basin filled with water, rinse the substrate off in the water, and then wash it clean with tap water. Note that throughout the entire process of removing the substrate, movements must be gentle, avoiding damage to the cyclamen root system as much as possible. The rinsed cyclamen plant can then be placed in the previously prepared hydroponic container, add water, and the beautiful hydroponic cyclamen is made.

It should be pointed out that no fertilizer of any kind needs to be added to the water for cultivating cyclamen. The nutrients in the cyclamen tuber can allow the cyclamen plant to maintain normal growth and flowering for 4-6 weeks. At the same time, the water level should be kept below the tuber. Generally, according to the evaporation of water, add water to the container 1-2 times a week to maintain the water level.

In fact, in hydroponic cyclamen, the cyclamen plant is only one factor. To make hydroponic cyclamen distinctive in features and outstanding in personality, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessels and the combination method of the cyclamen plants. This entirely depends on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.

Exposed-root hydroponic method for Hoya

Hoya has always been soil-cultivated. Now, through exposed-root hydroponic trials, it has the following characteristics: ① labor-saving; ② hygienic; ③ few pests and diseases; ④ simple management; ⑤ long flowering period; ⑥ roots, leaves, and flowers can all be appreciated, etc.

The exposed-root hydroponic method is:

(One) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-cultivated Hoya, wash it clean with clean water, cut off withered leaves and diseased and pest-damaged leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(Two) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a bottom hole), place a few beautiful river stones in the bottom of the bottle, move the treated Hoya seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the root system, add clean water, add flower nutrient solution, and place indoors or in a cool place.

(Three) Management: One, spray the leaves with clean water once a day; after one or two days, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days. Two, change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water. Three, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the Hoya head, half a milliliter each time, and then inject once a month, to promote growth, flowering, and prolong the flowering period.

(Four) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers fade, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can bloom again.

There is a big difference between flower hydroponics and water culture

In recent years, some water-cultured and hydroponic flowers have been favored by people because they are fresh and environmentally friendly, elegant in style, easy to maintain, and easy to combine. On the surface, the cultivation forms of water-cultured and hydroponic flowers are the same, namely liquid maintenance, so many people confuse the two. In fact, they are clearly different.

Flowers used for water culture generally have enlarged bulbs, which store abundant nutrients. Their growth and flowering mainly rely on the nutrients stored in themselves. During cultivation, it is only necessary to soak the root system in clean water to fix them, with no need to supply nutrients. Flowers suitable for water culture mainly include narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, lucky bamboo, etc. To make water-cultured flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom beautifully, the key is to choose fully developed bulbs to provide the nutrient needs of their growth process; second is to change water frequently, insisting on changing water once every 2 to 3 days (change water once every 7 to 10 days for lucky bamboo), maintaining sufficient oxygen content in the water and improving root activity; third is to maintain sufficient sunlight to make them grow robustly.

Hydroponic flowers, by contrast, have the plant roots fixed on the cover board or floating board of the flower pot, with the root system soaked in water, and the water must be equipped with reasonable inorganic nutrients, so flower hydroponics is also called nutrient solution culture. The habits and internal structure of flowers suitable for hydroponics make them suitable for normal growth in water. At present, the main cultivated varieties include clivia, spider plant, Christmas cactus, Brazilian wood, Dieffenbachia, clustered taro, Monstera, gem flower, Tradescantia zebrina, Bryophyllum, and other plants.

Northeastern University in China adopted bioengineering mutation technology and, after 8 years of effort, has developed 9 series and more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; including both cactus and succulent plants, and flowering flowers such as clivia and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as bromeliads, Anthurium, and Hippeastrum, have also successfully achieved hydroponics. Some distinctive flowers of China, such as Ludisia, have also achieved hydroponic domestication.

In truly well-mutated hydroponic flower plants, the traits of the root system have already changed, the root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertically growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-cultured plants, which are distributed in a net-like pattern. After aquatic mutation, the plant's aquatic root genes are expressed, so the leaves of truly aquatic flower plants become larger and thicker, and the leaves and branches are more tender than those grown in soil.

The key to hydroponic flowers is to prepare the nutrient solution well. When preparing the nutrient solution, never use metal containers or containers that have held grease, acids, or alkalis. When using tap water to prepare the nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat chlorides and sulfides in the water. For hydroponic flowers, add or replace the nutrient solution once a week, and note to keep the pH value between 5.5 and 6.5. The replaced nutrient solution can be used as fertilizer for other crops.

Brief introduction to flower hydroponic technology

Flower hydroponics is a common type of soilless cultivation. There are many methods; several commonly used ones are briefly described below.

Deep flow technique: The characteristic is that the plant root system is wholly or partially immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution flows; the nutrient solution is mixed with air to dissolve oxygen.

Nutrient film (NFT) technique: The nutrient film technique was developed from the plastic bag technique. A suitable amount of nutrient solution is placed in a plastic bag to cultivate plants. On this basis, further improvements were made: the plastic bag is changed to a plastic film, laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution is a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution, and part is exposed to moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film is white on the outside and black on the inside to wrap the plant, forming an internally dark space.

Its advantages are: it better solves the root system's oxygen demand for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, with low cost; plants grow quickly, easy to manage, and suitable for large-scale production.

Aeroponics technique: After atomization, the nutrient solution is sprayed around the plant root system; the mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the root system. The roots are continuously or intermittently in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problem of water, nutrient, and oxygen supply, and plants grow quickly. Aeroponics can also be used in cutting propagation.

Glass bottle hydroponic technique: The aqueous solution can use a glass canning jar; wrap the surroundings of the bottle with black plastic film, or coat it fully with black paint, or paste a layer of black paper, with the standard being that the inside of the bottle is lightproof. After light blocking, it is beneficial to root growth and avoids algae growth. In summer, a layer of white paper should be wrapped around the outside of the black bottle to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the bottle cap, cut a hole in the middle, clamp the plant, cover the bottle cap, and the upper side of the cap should also be black. Inject nutrient solution into the bottle, not too full; leave a gap for the plant to breathe oxygen. If it is water cuttings to promote rooting, then there is no need to use nutrient solution; just inject water, and after roots grow, switch to nutrient solution. Specific operation process:

Liquid changing: For small seedlings, change the nutrient solution once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For mature flowers, change once a week during the summer peak growth season, and once every 1 to 2 weeks in the non-growing season.

Ventilation: Open the bottle cap for a moment every morning and evening, letting the root system be fully exposed to the air. After a period of adaptation, it can go more than 1 month continuously without ventilation.

Water replenishment: Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so the bottle should be replenished with water frequently to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.

Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution: Fertilizer tablets sold on the market or prepared chemical fertilizers can be used. If conditions allow, it can be prepared yourself; the formulas are as follows:

Formula 1: (pH value 6-6.5)

Potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.44 g/L; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/L; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/L; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/L; trace elements 2 ml; Fe-EDTA 2 ml.

Formula 2: (pH value 6-65)

Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/L; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/L; trace elements 2 ml; potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.27 g/L; Fe-EDTA 2 ml.

Preparation method of trace element solution:

Boric acid 2.86 g, zinc oxide 0.11 g, manganese chloride 181 g, copper dichloride 0.05 g, sodium molybdate 0.025 g. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 ml of water, then make up to 1000 ml.

Multiple hydroponic methods for flowers

① Water cutting method: This is the simplest and easiest method to succeed. Cut part of the stem or branch from a selected mother flower plant, insert it into water, and under suitable conditions it will root, sprout, and grow into a new plant. When cutting branches, cut 3-5 mm below the node, and the cut surface should be smooth, with no longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches with aerial roots, protect the aerial roots well and insert them into water. Pothos, lucky bamboo, etc. are all suitable for this hydroponic method.

② Root washing method: Select flowers with ornamental value, robust growth, and already formed through soil cultivation (or other media cultivation), remove the soil, wash the root system, and switch to hydroponics. When washing the roots, it is best to use running water. After washing, plant the flowers in a prepared vessel, and inject tap water that covers 2/3-1/2 of the root system. At first, change the clean water once a day, and at the same time wash the roots and vessel. After one week, reduce the frequency of water changing. When the cultivated flowers grow new roots in the water, it shows they have adapted to the hydroponic environment, and then water can be changed once every 7-10 days, or even longer.

③ Tiller stripping method: Suitable for flowers with strong tillering ability, such as clivia and bromeliads. The method is simple, with a high survival rate. Select a relatively large tiller, remove the upper soil to expose the part connected to the mother plant, strip the tiller from the mother plant by hand or with a sharp blade (protect the tiller's roots well), wash off the soil attached to the roots, and cultivate by hydroponics.

④ Method of taking small plantlets from runners: Some flowers produce runners during growth, and the runners bear one to many small plantlets. Most small plantlets have a small amount of fully developed roots, such as spider plant and bromeliads, which have this characteristic. Using this characteristic of the flowers, picking formed small plantlets for hydroponics is very simple and convenient.

For hydroponic flowers, it is advisable to choose Monstera, clivia, pothos, Tillandsia, Aglaonema, Tradescantia spathacea, lucky bamboo, spider plant, and bulbous flowers such as tulip, lily, hyacinth, Hippeastrum, and gladiolus.

Guide to the difficulties of summer care for hydroponic flowers

One, Where are the difficulties of hydroponic flowers getting through summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers use non-solid media (water or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution) to cultivate ornamental plants. At present, household hydroponic flowers are mostly static water cultivation, with dissolved oxygen below 1 mg/l, and the flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism becomes vigorous, microorganisms multiply greatly, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and water quality deteriorates, forming many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers, possibly causing root rot, wilting of branches and leaves, and even the death of the entire flower plant. Therefore, in summer, in addition to preventing extreme heat and high temperatures, increasing the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring that hydroponic flowers safely pass the summer.

Water-cultured ribbon grass

Two, How to increase the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution?

Answer: There are many ways to increase dissolved oxygen, summarized as chemical methods and physical methods. The following are several easy-to-operate and effective methods.

1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution

Replacing the nutrient solution is the simplest method to increase dissolved oxygen. Measurements show that the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70%-90% compared with the original solution, and can promptly improve the physiological oxygen deficiency of flowers.

For flowers that have already grown aquatic roots, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 3-5 days, and no more than 7 days at most. When changing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large; too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorder in the flower root system.

When changing the solution, patiently rinse the root system with clean water, remove withered roots and rotten roots, and cut the aged roots shorter to promote new roots.

If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid, or if mosquito egg masses or mosquito larvae breed in it, new nutrient solution should be replaced immediately.

2. Vibration oxygenation

For hydroponic flowers in relatively small vessels, as long as the root system is clear and undamaged and the nutrient solution is transparent, the vibration method can be used to increase oxygen. The operation method is to fix the flower with one hand and hold the vessel with the other hand, gently shaking more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.

For hydroponic flowers with turbid nutrient solution and poor root development, the vibration oxygenation method is not suitable, and the nutrient solution must be completely replaced.

3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers

Measurements show that the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/l, while in static water it is only 1 mg/l. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers is designed and made according to this principle. The entire frame is the flower cultivation vessel, with a miniature circulation pump installed inside. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipeline. During operation, the nutrient solution circulates through the pipeline, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, the root system maintains a certain liquid level. Cultivating with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly letting hydroponic flowers soak in an "oxygen bar," and growth is clearly better than static hydroponics.

For the automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers, cleaning and liquid changing are generally done once every 30-35 days.

4. Aerate the vessel

If, while cultivating hydroponic flowers, there is also a tank of ornamental fish nearby, you can use the spare outlet pipe of the fish tank air pump, connect a rubber tube, put the sand head into the static hydroponic flower vessel to aerate (the airflow should not be too strong, to avoid splashing the nutrient solution), and use the flow of air to increase oxygen; the effect is also quite good.

Three, What position is suitable for placing hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: The flower materials selected for hydroponic flowers are mostly shade-tolerant foliage flowers and flowers with both foliage and flower appeal. Such as Syngonium, Aglaonema 'White Jade', Spathiphyllum, Anthurium, bromeliads, etc. These flowers like warmth and humidity, tolerate slight shade, and avoid high temperature and dry heat. "Hydroponics" only changes the cultivation form; it is impossible to change their growth habits and required environmental factors. In summer, it is best to place hydroponic flowers in an environment with bright light, slightly high humidity, relatively cool, and good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but do not make it too shaded either, lest flower photosynthesis be blocked, growth weaken, stem nodes elongate, and leaf texture become thin, causing the leaves of flowers with color blocks and colored patterns to lose luster.

Four, Can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?

Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly facing the air outlet of the air conditioner; too fast airflow will damage branches and leaves, ranging from leaf curling to scorched edges and withering in severe cases. It should also be considered that the temperature requirement of flowers is higher during the day than at night. If the air conditioner is turned off at night and the ambient temperature is higher than the daytime temperature when the air conditioner is on, it is unfavorable to the growth of hydroponic flowers.

When the air conditioner is on, place a basin of clean water beside the flowers or spray the leaf surface to increase environmental humidity. Place the flowers farther from the air conditioner outlet; if the day-night temperature difference is not large, there is no problem.

Five, What to do if hydroponic flowers have root rot?

Answer: As the temperature continuously rises, water temperature also rises, microbial growth accelerates, dissolved oxygen decreases, and water quality deteriorates. Improperly adding nutrient solution, making the dissolved concentration too high, can all cause root rot in hydroponic flowers, especially serious in the Liliaceae Cordyline, Dracaena marginata (fine-leaf dragon tree), and Dracaena colorama.

For flowers with root rot, the following methods can be used to restore their growth:

① Remove all rotten roots; if the stem has also been infected, use a sharp knife to cut off the infected part.

② Immerse the pruned flower in 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10-20 minutes for sterilization.

③ Take out the soaked flowers and rinse them under running water.

④ Place the cleaned flowers back into the original container and grow them in clean water (the container should be washed clean).

⑤ Change the water once every 1 to 2 days, replacing only with clean water without adding nutrient solution. If the water is clear, the frequency of water changes can be reduced. After 10 to 15 days of care, new roots can begin to sprout.

⑥ While the new roots are first sprouting, continue growing them in clean water; once the temperature stabilizes at 18 to 25°C, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

VI. What should be done if algae grow in the nutrient solution?

Answer: Algae growing in the nutrient solution is a common phenomenon during the cultivation of hydroponic flowers. Especially in summer, when temperatures are high, the container is highly transparent, the environment is bright, or the nutrient solution is left unchanged for too long, algae will proliferate in large amounts. Algae compete with the flowers for oxygen, and their secretions contaminate the solution, degrading the quality of the nutrient solution. Algae attached to the flower roots hinder root respiration and interfere with the normal physiological activities of the flowers, causing great harm.

Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, decisively pour out the contaminated solution, thoroughly clean the container, brush off the algae attached to the roots, and replace with fresh nutrient solution.

At present, scientists in our country are researching a kind of "algae-eating insect" that can filter-feed on algae, known as a natural "nemesis" of algae damage. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, adding a small amount of "algae-eating insects" to the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can eliminate algae growth.

Algae reproduction depends on relatively good light. Using a baffle or old newspaper to shade the hydroponic flower container and avoiding direct strong light will relatively reduce the chances of algae growth.

VII. What fertilizer should be used for hydroponic flowers? How should fertilizer be applied in summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special cultivation form, a cultivation method belonging to soilless cultivation. The roots of the flowers are anchored in water (or a special plant nutrient solution), so it is also called nutrient solution cultivation.

Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with a matching plant nutrient solution. However, different flowers require different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If five or six, or even a dozen bottles of hydroponic flowers of different varieties are being grown at the same time, it is unrealistic to buy a bottle of matching plant nutrient solution for each flower. For the sake of simplicity, a general-purpose plant nutrient solution can be chosen.

General-purpose plant nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including macroelements and microelements), with a balanced ratio of various elements. The inorganic salts are in ionic form, and the scope of application is wide, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages. They are non-toxic and harmless, and the pH value and ion concentration are favorable for nutrient absorption.

There are many types of plant nutrient solutions sold on the market, with varying quality. It is best to go to a specialty hydroponic flower shop and choose products from manufacturers with a good reputation.

There are differing views on whether to use nutrient solution or only clean water for cultivation in summer. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures and grow vigorously, use nutrient solution cultivation; for flowers with fine roots that enter a semi-dormant or dormant state at temperatures around 30°C, use only clean water cultivation. For example, for Spathiphyllum (white flag), pothos, mini monstera, red gem, and Philodendron, nutrient solution cultivation is suitable for maintaining growth vigor and enhancing ornamental value. For flowers such as coleus, begonia, and bromeliads, a bottle of clean water is enough for them to safely pass the summer.

When mixing the nutrient solution, strictly follow the proportions indicated in the instructions, and do not arbitrarily increase the concentration. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers grown hydroponically changes, becoming looser and with larger cells than in soil cultivation. The cell walls become thinner, directly absorbing water, nutrients, and oxygen from the nutrient solution, making them extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution; excessive concentration is harmful to the flowers. As long as the concentration of macroelements is not lower than the level of 1 micromole per liter, a lower concentration is beneficial to flower growth.

In summer, it is advisable to replace the nutrient solution once every 5 days.

VIII. Can soil-cultivated flowers be converted to hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Converting soil-cultivated flowers to hydroponic flowers is most suitable in spring and autumn, when the temperature is around 15 to 25°C, suitable for flower growth, and the flowers easily adapt to the changed cultivation environment. To change the cultivation form of flowers in summer, the following factors should be considered: ① Select varieties that are more closely related to hygrophytic flowers. ② Flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at temperatures around 30°C. Experiments have shown that for Araceae plants such as Syngonium, mini monstera, red gem Philodendron, green giant, and pothos, as well as some Bromeliaceae flowers, the survival rate of converting from soil cultivation to hydroponic cultivation in summer is relatively high. They adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, and their roots rarely rot. After 15 to 20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from the old roots, but water roots can also sprout from the root stem ends.

When converting from soil cultivation to hydroponic cultivation, the soil around the flower roots must be cleaned off. Rinse repeatedly, protecting the roots from damage as much as possible or minimizing it. Use a container with a larger capacity for cultivation, change the water once a day. After five days, change the water once every 2 to 3 days. Once the water roots grow to 5 cm long, cultivate with a low-concentration plant nutrient solution.

Hydroponic method for Lucky Bamboo

Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as Wan Shou Zhu, native to Brazil and western Africa.

Characteristics

Evergreen shrub. The plant form is slender and upright, without branching. Leaves are long lanceolate, deep green, with sheath-like petioles. Common types include golden-edged lucky bamboo, whose leaves have yellow longitudinal stripes. Silver-edged lucky bamboo, also known as silver-striped bamboo banana, is a compact plant with silver-white longitudinal stripes on the leaf edges.

Habits

Prefers high temperature and high humidity; the wintering temperature should be kept above 10°C. In summer, avoid direct sunlight, otherwise it will cause leaf scorch.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: When the air is too dry, it will cause leaf scorch. During the growing period, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently.

2: Suitable for ample scattered light; when light is insufficient, the color of striped varieties will fade.

Hydroponic method for Anthurium

Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as Anthurium andraeanum and lampstand flower

Characteristics

Perennial evergreen herb. Internodes are short, and leaves grow from the base of the plant. Leaves are round-cordate or ovate, dark green. The flower stalk grows from the leaf axil. The spathe is upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet, and the spadix is yellow and extends straight.

Habits

Prefers high temperature, high humidity, and a semi-shaded environment; avoid direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and it must be kept above 10°C for wintering.

Propagation

Division, tissue culture.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Not cold-tolerant; in winter, heating and warmth must be provided.

2: Prefers relatively high air humidity and a semi-shaded environment.

How to obtain hydroponic materials

Use the potted root-washing method

Hydroponic method for Azalea

The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with artificially made substrates. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used solid substrates for soilless cultivation of azaleas and achieved very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea; the soilless-cultivated plants had compact crown structure, abundant flowering, large flower diameter, and few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor, making it a cultivation method worth vigorously promoting.

1. Preparation of the substrate

Azalea roots are very fine and require a loose substrate to facilitate aeration and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder mixed in proportion. After mixing the substrate, sterilize it with 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse multiple times with clean water, and after drying, mix evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, then cover with plastic film for one month before it can be used for potting.

2. Preparation of the nutrient solution

Azaleas have relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing period, apply thin fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH value at around 5, and spraying low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.

Preparation of macroelements: Add 2 g of agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g of magnesium sulfate to 1 liter of water as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: Add 20 g of disodium edetate, 15 g of ferrous sulfate, 4 g of manganese sulfate, 6 g of boric acid, 0.2 g of zinc sulfate, 0.1 g of copper sulfate, and 0.2 g of ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the mother solution. When using, add 1 mL of trace element mother solution to 1 liter of standard solution to make the full-element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: Add 1 g of urea, 1 g of potassium dihydrogen phosphate, 0.02 g of boric acid, and 0.1 g of V.B1 to 1 liter of water.

3. Water and fertilizer management

Because the substrate has good drainage and aeration but poor water retention, the amount of watering is generally a bit more than soil cultivation, just enough to keep the substrate moist. At this time, it is exactly the period of flower bud formation and leaf bud sprouting, requiring a relatively large amount of fertilizer, so water with full-strength nutrient solution about once every 10 days. From March until the flower buds break, spray foliar fertilizer about once every 15 days. After flowering, the water requirement is high; in addition to daily watering, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, the fertilizer requirement is also high, so it can be changed to watering with nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote strong new branches and facilitate flower bud differentiation. After the dog days begin, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and spray water on the leaves; the fertilizer application can be reduced to watering with nutrient solution about once every 20 days. After the autumn cools, gradually increase the amount of fertilizer, apply full-strength nutrient solution about once every half month, and spray foliar fertilizer 1-2 times to promote healthy and strong flower bud growth. After winter begins, the physiological activity of azaleas is weak, so fertilization is not suitable; just water appropriately according to the degree of dryness or moisture of the substrate. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.

Hydroponic method for Broadleaf Lady Palm

Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as Guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places.

Characteristics

Evergreen clustered shrub. Stems are cylindrical, unbranched, with nodes like bamboo, bearing brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, like palm fiber. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stems, leathery, deep green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4-10 lobes. Dioecious.

Habits

Prefers a warm, shady, humid, and well-ventilated environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C; in winter it should be kept above 4°C, and it can tolerate short-term low temperatures around 0°C.

Propagation

Generally carried out by division combined with repotting. Select plants with large clumps and dense stems. First lift the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, cut the roots as little as possible, and keep the divided plants with a certain plant shape. Then repot them, water thoroughly, and place them in a semi-shaded, humid place, frequently spraying water on the leaves. After they resume growth, they can be transferred to normal care.

For sowing, after the seeds mature in autumn, sow them in pots immediately after collection, move them into a greenhouse in winter, and they will emerge in the spring of the following year.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Tolerant of shade, but when light is too weak, yellow leaves are likely to appear; when ventilation is poor, parasitic pests may breed.

2: During the growing period, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently.

How to obtain hydroponic materials

It is suitable to wash the roots of potted plants. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard in texture and not easy to rot after hydroponic cultivation, but new roots sprout relatively slowly, taking about one and a half months.

Hydroponic method for Purple Velvet Plant

Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.

Characteristics

Purple velvet plant is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick, many-branched stems. Leaves are opposite, long ovate. The leaf margins have relatively coarse double serrations. It is named for its stems and leaves being densely covered with purple-red fine hairs like velvet. The purple velvet plant has bright, beautiful, and elegant colors, making it an excellent flower type for indoor cultivation.

Habits

Purple velvet plant likes ample sunlight, but during high temperatures in summer and autumn, it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment. Direct sunlight will cause leaf scorch due to sunburn, but in too shady conditions the plant will fade and turn green. The wintering temperature should be kept above 10°C.

Propagation

Purple velvet plant is propagated by cuttings. During growth, select sturdy branches, cut 10 cm long shoot tips as cuttings, and place them in a shaded, humid place after cutting; they can root in 2-3 weeks. After the cuttings grow, pinch them promptly to promote the sprouting of side branches.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Branches can be cut and inserted into water, and water roots can grow in just over 10 days. However, at high temperatures in summer, root rot is likely.

2: Purple velvet plant grows rapidly. When the branches reach an appropriate height, pinch them promptly to promote the sprouting of new shoots.

Hydroponic method for Parlor Palm

Palmae, Chamaedorea genus, also known as dwarf coconut, etc., native to Mexico and Venezuela.

Characteristics

Evergreen small tree, with a short plant form. The stem is slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular rings on it. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, pinnately compound, with 20-40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green, and glossy.

Habits

Prefers a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C; at 13°C it enters dormancy, and the minimum wintering temperature is 3°C.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn scorched yellow, but in too shady conditions the leaf color will also fade.

2: Parlor palm is most beautiful at a plant height of 30-50 cm. When the plant is too tall, the lower part becomes bare and reduces its ornamental value. When cultivating, small plants can be grown below.

Obtaining hydroponic materials

Use the potted root-washing method. After washing with water, new roots can grow in a few days.

Hydroponic method for Cactus Ball

We know that cactus balls are favored by people for their unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance, but cactus balls, due to traditional cultivation methods, have problems such as being dirty and difficult to manage. More people kill their beloved plants because they cannot manage water and fertilizer well. Now the cultivation of cactus balls has entered a new stage: hydroponics.

1: Selecting the mother plant

First, we should choose cactus balls with sturdy bodies. The key is to choose plants whose lower root-stem part protrudes downward. Cactus balls grafted and cultivated with three-angled cacti are easier to grow hydroponically.

2: Treatment

After selecting the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots under the ball, requiring the cut to be flat. Then rinse the soil attached to the root-stem part clean with clean water, and dry it in a dry place for 3 days so that the cut is completely dry.

3: Hydroponics

Prepare a glass bottle of suitable size, or process a mineral water bottle. Fix the selected and treated cactus ball at the bottle mouth with floral foam or foam, and add nutrient solution below, with the height of the nutrient solution just reaching the root-stem part. In production, we recommend making a glass water tank 60-100 cm long and 20 cm wide (transparent containers make it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root-stem part). Prepare a children's foam puzzle board or a white construction foam board, and use a sharp knife to dig several small triangular holes in the board (for fixing golden barrel cactus, the mouth part cut from a waste purified water bottle can be used upside down; note: the bottle mouth should be cut off so that the roots of the golden barrel cactus can be exposed from the cut bottle mouth, then placed in a flat body containing nutrient solution). Insert the three-angled cacti into the triangular holes; at this time, the roots of all three-angled cacti just contact the liquid surface.

4. Post-hydroponic treatment

Purchase two magnets with a diameter of 6-10 cm and place them in the container, in order to magnetize the nutrient solution, thereby accelerating the emergence of water roots. (You can also buy a small wall-mounted submersible pump specially for ecological fish tanks from the market, attach it to the inner wall of the nutrient solution, and turn on the power to achieve oxygen-carrying circulation through the flow of the nutrient solution.)

5: Key points for hydroponic care

Place the well-planted cactus ball in an environment with relatively strong scattered light, keep the temperature above 20°C, and generally water roots will emerge in 3-7 days. Replace the nutrient solution immediately after water roots appear.

Note:

During the induction process of cactus balls, it is strictly forbidden to spray water on the ball body, as it can easily cause the ball body to rot and die.

What should be noted when growing Clivia miniata hydroponically at home?

Hydroponic Clivia miniata is a clean and convenient cultivation method. When cultivating at home, note the following:

① Container selection. The bottom of the cultivation container should have no holes, and it is best to choose a transparent one, so that you can view the leaves, flowers, and roots. Glass bottles can be used; non-toxic plastic bottles or ceramic containers can also be used. The size of the container depends on the size of the plant, and the diameter should not be too large.

② The cultivation solution. Nutrient solution or clean water can be used, but when cultivating in clean water, attention must be paid to foliar fertilization to supply the nutrients needed for Clivia miniata growth.

③ Changing the solution. Hydroponic Clivia miniata needs regular solution changes. The number of solution changes depends on the weather. When the temperature is relatively low, it can be changed about once a month; when the temperature is relatively high, it can be changed once every 10 days. When changing the solution, be careful to wash the cultivation container clean.

How to scientifically grow Hippeastrum hydroponically

In early winter, choose one or several large Hippeastrum bulbs that have flowered or not yet flowered, cut off all roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal the white and green parts, and soak them in clean water. After about 48 hours, take the bulbs out, wash off the paste-like substance at the cuts with clean water, dry them in the shade, and place them in a flower container. The flower container can be a bowl, basin, or narcissus pot, etc. Place washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing mountain stones, etc. inside, then place the treated Hippeastrum bulbs on top. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if using tap water, it must have been left standing for several days). The depth of the water should be enough to cover the small stones and other padding, or about 1 cm below the upper rim of the flower container. Finally, place it in a place with sufficient indoor light. Keep the room temperature at about 10°C, and in about 7-10 days leaves will begin to grow and roots will develop. The water in the pot should always be kept at the original water level line. When the leaves grow to 2-3 cm, fertilizer must be supplemented promptly. Every 10-20 days, when adding water, add an appropriate amount of 1% urea solution or 0.03% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution or other compound fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulbs with roots into flower pots for routine care. In this way, bulbs treated hydroponically will bloom slightly later than other conventionally potted Hippeastrum, just in time for the summer flowering period when flowers are scarce.

Technical management of hydroponics

1. What is hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics, also called soilless cultivation or nutrient solution cultivation, is an agricultural production technique that uses nutrient solution and supporting facilities instead of soil to cultivate crops. In order to fix the plants and increase air content, most hydroponic plants also use inert sand, gravel, peat, perlite, etc. as solid substrates, so it is also called sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, etc.
Since the beginning of human history of planting, crops have been grown in soil, so the English word agriculture is Agrculfure, composed of Agr (soil) and Culture (cultivation). In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used 3 different kinds of water, namely rainwater, river water, and garden soil leachate, to grow mint. As a result, the mint grown in garden soil leachate grew fastest, thus concluding that "plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil." Unfortunately, due to technical limitations at the time, Woodward did not conduct further research. It was not until 1859-1865 that German scientists Sachs and Knop first conducted precise experiments in soilless cultivation. They succeeded in cultivating plants with an artificial nutrient solution made from inorganic salts, and they called this method hydroponics. Sachs and Knop are therefore recognized as the founders of soilless cultivation technology.

◆2. What are hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are flowers grown using soilless cultivation technology. Hydroponic flowers are further divided into medium-based hydroponic flowers and medium-free hydroponic flowers. Medium-based hydroponics refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc. mentioned earlier; medium-free hydroponic flowers are further divided into direct hydroponic flowers, floating hydroponic flowers, planting basket hydroponic flowers, atomized hydroponic flowers, nutrient film drip irrigation, and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its advantages and disadvantages, but if measured only by beauty, durability, and suitability for home cultivation, direct hydroponics is the most fashionable, beautiful, and simple, so the hydroponic plants generally sold on the market now are usually in direct hydroponic form.

◆3. Why is the nutrient solution the key to successful hydroponic flower cultivation?
Answer: We all know that under greenhouse conditions, when inert substrates are used as the medium, soilless cultivation is already a very simple and mature technology, because computers control humidity, temperature, light intensity, nutrient solution injection time, etc. in real time, and specialized technicians use pH meters, conductivity meters, etc. to test the pH of the nutrient solution and the balance of various elements in real time. However, these conditions are difficult to achieve when used in a home environment. First, if hydroponic flowers placed at home still use substrate cultivation, then there is no aesthetic difference from soil cultivation, so home hydroponic flowers should be medium-free soilless cultivation. Without a medium, plants are prone to root rot and odor; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants not to rot roots, not to emit odor, to be free of peculiar smells, and to grow normally when oxygen is lacking. In addition, the hygiene needs of the home require that the nutrient solution should not easily breed mosquitoes and insects and should be non-toxic. Moreover, home lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, so the nutrient solution is required to lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis so that it can also grow well in office and home environments. Furthermore, it is impossible to require every user to have specialized botanical knowledge like a botanical expert, so the nutrient solution must also be convenient to use, easy to operate, and easy for anyone to learn. Therefore, hydroponic flowers suitable for home cultivation have higher technical requirements for the nutrient solution.
Since humans mastered soilless cultivation technology, scientists have successfully researched no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but formulas that simultaneously meet the above requirements are very rare; moreover, due to commercial interests, major flower companies treat their nutrient solution technology as a top-secret technology, so the nutrient solution formulas obtainable from public materials are only theoretical or experimental formulas, which can only serve as reference materials and cannot be used in production activities. In fact, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home environment use can be known with just one try. You only need to see whether the plants displayed are growing vigorously and whether water roots are growing, because as the saying goes: "Practice is the only criterion for testing truth!"

◆4. How can hydroponic flowers safely overwinter?
Answer: Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8°C, and tissues begin to necrose below 0°C. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5°C, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in southern China, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not fall below 5°C. If several days of extreme low-temperature weather occur, it can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; in northern China, because most indoor areas have heating, the safe overwintering of hydroponic flowers can also be satisfied.

◆5. Can hydroponic flowers only be certain specific flowers?
Answer: In modern greenhouses, generally speaking, all our common popular flowers can be grown hydroponically. However, in a home environment, because certain specific conditions cannot be met, currently only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be grown. In homes with a balcony, the suitable varieties are more numerous.

◆6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in hydroponic flowers? How should water changes and regular feeding be handled?
Answer: Because the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Every one of our specialty stores has a sample of fish being raised in hydroponic flowers, precisely to convey this information to customers.
Generally speaking, only hydroponic flowers with a volume of more than 1 liter are suitable for raising fish, and because the volume is limited, fish species should also be chosen selectively. Some fish species with strong adaptability should be chosen, such as goldfish and small koi. Some fish with strong aggression or strong destructiveness are also not suitable for raising in hydroponic flowers, because they will damage the plant roots; and some delicate fish are also not suitable, because even raising them in a dedicated aquarium is difficult to succeed at, let alone in a relatively poor-condition small vase. Water changes can be done at the same time as the normal water changes for the flowers. When feeding, it is the same as when we normally raise fish in a fish tank, with no difference at all.
Because the special substances in the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of the water, which facilitates the respiration of plant roots, fish generally will not lack oxygen in the nutrient solution, so on days that are not especially hot, there is no need to install oxygenation equipment.

◆7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic Flower King nutrient solution is a highly concentrated liquid and must be diluted before use; when diluting, under normal circumstances tap water can fully meet the requirements, and there is absolutely no need to use bottled water or purified water. If well water or river water is used, a water quality test should be carried out to understand the mineral content composition in the water. If the content of a certain mineral in the water exceeds the standard, the nutrient solution formula should be adjusted to facilitate the normal growth of the plants.
During the dilution process, tap water can be used directly to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine in the water to evaporate, because the unique formula in Hydroponic Flower King will cause the chlorine in tap water to evaporate rapidly. However, if the water temperature and room temperature differ too greatly, the diluted nutrient solution should be left to stand indoors for a period of time, to prevent the plant roots from suffering root hair damage due to a sudden temperature change, which would cause the plants to wilt.

◆8. What is planting basket hydroponics?
Answer: Planting basket hydroponics is a hydroponic cultivation method that uses the principle of hydrotropism of plant roots. The principle of hydrotropism is that the root tips of plants always grow toward the direction with sufficient moisture. This is shown when a plant's surface soil lacks water; in order to protect itself, the plant's root tips will grow toward deeper soil, to absorb the water needed for the plant's growth and development and adapt to natural changes. At this time, root growth has a very obvious directionality; while plants growing in swamps or water do not lack water, so their root growth is more chaotic and has no obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, with the bottom not needing to directly contact the water, at a distance of about 1-2 cm, and do not water the bonsai but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week, the phenomenon of roots growing toward the water will appear at the bottom of the bonsai. At this time you do not need to add water; let its roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops; if you use some fast-growing plants for the experiment, the effect will be even more obvious. Similarly, if you take a bonsai that has already grown full of water roots, remove it from the pot, and use a planting basket to fix the plant, then decorate it with stones or ornaments, it becomes a pot of planting basket hydroponic flowers. The difference is that at this time, because there is no soil, you need to replace the clear water with nutrient solution, and it is just that simple.

◆9. Why do hydroponic flowers need water changes?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution will become fewer and fewer. At the same time, because of root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water will become more and more numerous. Therefore, after a period of growth, hydroponic flowers need to be given fresh nutrient solution. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers; soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and also need the soil changed once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, during the vigorous growth period of spring and summer, the interval between water changes should be shorter, while in autumn and winter, when growth is slow, it can be longer.

◆10. Why do hydroponic flowers sometimes become weaker and weaker or show poor growth?
Answer: It may be caused by too long an interval between solution changes, an incorrect nutrient solution ratio (too dilute or too concentrated), or light that is too weak. If these factors are ruled out, then you should check whether the nutrient solution water level is too high, preventing the plant roots from respiring normally and causing oxygen deficiency. If none of these are the case, then we suggest you had best go to a Hydroponic Flower King specialty store for consultation.

Exposing the hydroponic flower market -- distinguishing true from fake hydroponic flowers

At present, many companies are developing franchise stores for hydroponic flowers, causing a great commotion across the country. In particular, a company in Beijing has franchise stores that will spread throughout the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to express many opinions, but in order to safeguard the healthy development of our country's hydroponic flower industry, after witnessing everything I cannot help but air some complaints. This is because the scams involved not only harm consumers' interests, but will also cast a shadow over the hydroponic industry. At present, during the low-temperature season, plant respiration is weak. After washing the roots and directly soaking the plants in water, they can be kept in water for a period of time. Plants with strong flooding tolerance, such as Araceae plants, can survive in water for 1-2 months, but once the weather turns hot and plant physiological respiration becomes strong, oxygen deficiency and root rot will immediately appear. A hydroponic work bought home for dozens or hundreds of yuan is only a fleeting flash in the pan. It not only harms consumers' interests, but will also greatly affect the development of the hydroponic industry. Now I will use a scientific perspective to reveal the "deception techniques" involved.

1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. Once winter comes, these plants slow their growth and their respiration weakens. In addition, Araceae plants are relatively closely related to aquatic plants and have strong flooding tolerance. After root washing and direct soaking in water, no discomfort can be seen from the plant for a while, but it is impossible for them to grow vigorously in water. They can only maintain the balance of water metabolism, while nutrient absorption and respiratory function are severely blocked. Once the weather turns hot, the roots will suffer oxygen deficiency, become foul-smelling, and rot. Other plants with somewhat stronger terrestrial habits simply cannot be handled by this method, so this is the main reason they can currently only use Araceae plants to "deceive." Their so-called induction liquid, I think it would be better and more honest to call "deception liquid." It is fundamentally impossible for plants to undergo changes in tissue structure within a few minutes.

2. Collecting high franchise fees for franchise sales is itself a kind of commercial hype. If the goods were genuine and the price fair, there would be nothing to criticize. If the technology were unique, it could also dominate the market and truly have the meaning of a franchise. But the current type of franchise can be said to be a money scam. First, the technology has no scientific or technological content at all; it is just root washing and soaking in water, something even a fool could imitate at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, hydroponic technology itself has undergone decades of development and is no longer a technology exclusively owned by a certain company. Using franchises simply cannot monopolize the market. Other hydroponic flower stores can likewise operate, and with better funding and more reliable technology than franchise stores. Once the franchise fee is paid, it is also equivalent to being thrown away. Truly hydroponic flowers are not suitable for long-distance transport. In fact, what they are selling now are all products made from soil-cultivated seedlings after root washing. It might be more accurate to call them bare-root flowers.

3. Tip: In late autumn, winter, and early spring, Araceae plants can also be kept in water for a period of time after root washing and soaking in water. Everyone might as well give it a try; there is no need at all for induction liquid.

I have studied hydroponics for many years and have also inspected several countries abroad with relatively developed hydroponic technology. Our country's current hydroponic market can be said to be full of charlatans of all kinds, a mixed bag with fish eyes passed off as pearls. However, in the end these franchise scams will still be cleaned out by history and science. I remind everyone to keep their eyes open and not be led astray by deception liquid.

How to distinguish true from fake hydroponic flowers

True and fake hydroponic flowers are in fact the difference between induced flowers and non-induced flowers. At present, many hydroponic flower operators do not understand hydroponic flowers from a scientific perspective. Starting only from the angle of commercial hype and personal profit, they pass off some conventional soil-cultivated plants as hydroponic plants for sale, fooling consumers and causing very bad social effects. After some citizens buy them at high prices, the plants die from physiological discomfort not long after being kept. This seriously hinders the healthy development of the hydroponic flower industry. In response to this problem, buyers can distinguish true from fake in the following aspects to avoid being cheated.

A. Look at root morphology to distinguish true from fake: induced hydroponic flowers usually exist in the form of fibrous adventitious roots, and will not, like roots in soil, be divided into taproots, lateral roots, capillary roots, and root hairs. That is, they will not exist in the state of multi-order branched secondary roots. Even if there is branching, it is only a small amount of branched roots based on fibrous adventitious roots. The low number of orders and simple root structure are its most obvious characteristics. In addition, for some plants that originally had radicles, after induction the number of first-order adventitious roots increases markedly, that is, the proportion of roots greatly increases, and the root system is numerous and well developed, resembling a beard.

B. Look at root color to distinguish true from fake: plant water roots formed through aquatic induction mostly have the characteristics of being white, crisp, and tender. Even for some varieties whose roots show their natural color, their water roots are still noticeably lighter in color than land roots, such as yellowish-white, pale yellow, light brown, and so on. This is related to the well-developed parenchyma tissue of water roots and the fact that cell walls have undergone little or no thickening, suberization, or lignification.

C. Judge true from fake by the completeness of the roots: roots that have undergone aquatic induction begin regrowth and differentiation from primary adventitious roots, and all of this is completed in the water environment, so the root system is complete. Some soil-cultivated plants, even if carefully rinsed, still always have slight damage or serious residual roots. This completeness of the root system is difficult for soil-washed seedlings to achieve.

D. Judge true from fake by the clarity of the water: fake hydroponic works made from soil-washed seedlings, because the root system has not formed adaptability to water, under anaerobic conditions will undergo anaerobic respiration and release large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites, causing the water in the container to quickly become cloudy or deteriorate. Visually, this appears as a turbid, non-clear feeling, that is, water quality deterioration or foul odor, followed by root rot and eventually seedling death.

E. Leaf angle can also distinguish true from fake: especially for many herbaceous flowers that are extremely sensitive to ethylene, after induction their leaf attachment angle is noticeably more flat than that of soil-washed seedlings grown in soil, that is, epinastic growth leads to an increased angle, or even drooping.

Increasing the dissolved oxygen content of hydroponic nutrient solution

Apart from light, temperature, humidity, and other environmental factors, which are required in exactly the same way as soil cultivation, hydroponic flowers differ vastly in management requirements for water, fertilizer, and oxygen -- Water: Home hydroponic flowers should use soft water as the water source; generally, tap water meeting national standards can be used. Tap water has undergone filtration, sedimentation, and sterilization treatment, is clean and hygienic, and has a pH below 7, so it can be safely used to grow hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, pond water, and well water are polluted to varying degrees, are seriously eutrophic, and may differ greatly in various ions. If the content of one ion exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage the plants or poison them to death, so these are not suitable as a water source for hydroponic flowers. Fertilizer: Home hydroponic flowers must use a low-concentration special nutrient solution based mainly on nitrate nitrogen fertilizer. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth, with a balanced ratio of various elements. Inorganic salts are in ionic form and are suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and their various growth and development stages. They are also non-toxic, harmless, and have an appropriate pH, which is conducive to nutrient absorption. It is not advisable to crush soil fertilizer or granular chemical fertilizer and use it for hydroponic flowers. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on the flowers, but long-term application will inevitably hinder normal physiological metabolism. It is even more unacceptable to use organic fertilizer as a fertilizer source for hydroponic flowers. Diluted urine can be used for foliar spraying, but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: In home hydroponic flowers, the water (nutrient solution) is in a static state, and dissolved oxygen is below /ppm/L. The flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel. It is common to see their roots grow in reverse, extending toward the liquid surface, seeking to breathe more oxygen. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of the hydroponic nutrient solution is very necessary for the normal growth of flowers, especially in summer. There are several simple and easy ways to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution. 2. Shake to increase oxygen: fix the flower plant with one hand, and with the other hand hold the vessel and gently shake it more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a miniature submersible pump or oxygenation pump (both standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution. Plant roots can obtain sufficient oxygen in such an environment, respiration is very vigorous, and this promotes robust flower growth.

See through fake hydroponic flower technology at a glance

Hydroponic flowers, with flowers and fish raised together and a combination of movement and stillness, are the first impression they give. The earlier concept in China first sprouted at the turn of the 21st century (although some people had earlier grown some Araceae plants, lucky bamboo, and similar easily water-grown plants in water, that concept does not belong to today's popular "hydroponic flowers" concept!). It rose in 2003, when many enterprises and units with market vision turned one after another to preliminary research and planning work in this industry. In addition, with the broadcast of "Hydroponic Flowers" on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it became red-hot from 2004 to 2005. Hydroponic flowers could be said to bloom everywhere in China: some provided technical study and training, some had base production, and some franchised flower shops. Many fake hydroponic flower companies, enterprises, and individuals, stimulated by profit, put on shows in the market. On the one hand, they added fuel to the hype around the domestic hydroponic flower market concept and let many citizens understand and recognize this new concept and product; on the other hand, many investors and operators became sacrifices of this wave of market trends. As for 2006, the great wave washed away the sand. Those with their own core technology and production capacity and with relatively strong economic strength and operating ability could still remain in such a chaotic market tide, and those who could remain were very few. However, hydroponic flowers, as a fashionable flower product, represent a new trend and new wave in the development of the flower industry. Driven by economic interests in the market economy, there are still a small number of speculators existing in the market!

The author has been in this trade for three or four years and is relatively familiar with this industry. In view of the uneven quality of the current hydroponic flower market, this article provides a systematic analysis and summary, all to give the broad public who love hydroponic flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the hydroponic flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding, for everyone's reference:

2. What are true hydroponic flowers?

From a sensory point of view, using glass vases of various shapes and sizes, planting plants and flowers on top (at present, the variety scope of hydroponic technology has been expanded to include other woody plants, vines, succulents, and so on), and raising a few cute small fish below, that is hydroponic flowers (plants)! But from a technical level, true hydroponic flowers refer to those cultivated and grown through various biological, physical, computer, and other technical means so that the physiological traits of their root systems change, giving them water roots with plant aerenchyma tissue, and only after they can adapt to long-term cultivation in water can they become true hydroponic flowers (plants)!

3. How to identify true hydroponic flowers?

Judging from the senses:
Report on the current state of hydroponic flower technology. 1. Introduction:
For a successful true hydroponic plant, the plant root system after induction and acclimation should have roots that are white and elegant, with many fibrous roots, and should be very obviously different from soil-cultivated plants, whose roots are mostly relatively dark black in color! (Except for a small number of plants whose root systems have their own peculiar color, such as red-flowered loropetalum, which after induction is deep red from its roots to its branches and stem sections! There are also some plants whose roots are nearly white after the soil is removed!)

In addition, if the plant's growth condition is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, it shows that it was only just planted in the bottle not long ago and arranged there to deceive users! Even if it has gone through induction, it still cannot be sold as a commodity!

Judging from the technology:

Judging from the technology:

1) Does it possess a professional technical level?

If, as some merchants say, all that is needed is the so-called "induction liquid," "acclimation liquid," or "nutrient solution," and the plant is soaked in water for a few days or a few hours, and some even say that hydroponic flowers can be achieved in just a few dozen minutes or a few minutes, this claim can only fool those who do not understand biotechnology. Anyone who understands biological principles knows that if the plant root system is severely oxygen-deficient in water, the roots will soon undergo anaerobic respiration, then fermentation, and root rot. Therefore, a large amount of fermentation matter accumulates in the bottle, mosquitoes breed, insects appear, the water becomes turbid and unclean, and the plant soon dies!
Only when the induction of plant water roots is truly achieved, forming hydroponic plants with aerenchyma tissue that can adapt well to the low-oxygen state in water, can they truly deserve to be called hydroponic flowers. Moreover, the cultivation of water roots is not something that nutrient solution alone can fully accomplish and realize. It requires comprehensive biological, physical, computer, and other methods and means, and after a relatively long period of cultivation, only after complete adaptation to the water environment can it become professional, truly hydroponic flowers!

2) Does it have relatively strong artistic combination level and ability?

Hydroponic flowers belong to mid- to high-end consumption. Their ornamental value lies in: artistically combined arrangements. Each product lies in its artistic glass bottle container, beautiful plant shape, white and elegant root system, and the perfect combination and arrangement of fish, water, grass, and other ornaments in the bottle! Whether or not it is a professional hydroponic flower work, besides the natural sensory impression, a relatively strong artistic combination is not something an ordinary beginner can put together! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether the producer has such aesthetic level!

3) Does it have the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers and fixed supply channels?

Whether it has the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers can also show whether the merchant has the ability for professional hydroponic flower production. If there are neither fixed production facilities nor a powerful and branded producer as a supply source, then such a hydroponic flower provider is very likely passing off soil-cultivated plants after root washing as "hydroponic flowers"!

Checking from the varieties:

The hydroponic flower varieties that a truly professional hydroponic flower producer can produce are not limited to plants such as those in Araceae and Crassulaceae, such as Alocasia, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, lucky bamboo, Monstera deliciosa, and Rohdea japonica, which are themselves easy to grow in water. These plant varieties are themselves close to water and water-loving, and ordinary methods can achieve cultivation in water. A professional producer should be able to hydroponically grow all kinds of woody plants and all kinds of water-fearing plants, such as sago palm, cactus, Pachira aquatica, Polyscias, and even Taxus chinensis, osmanthus, fruit trees, and so on! If the plant varieties a merchant can provide are single and limited, then it is certainly not a professional hydroponic flower manufacturer!

Checking from time:

Time is the ultimate and only standard for testing hydroponic flowers. If they cannot adapt to long-term cultivation in water and are only a fleeting flash in the pan, dying within a few days, many of these are hydroponic flowers made by speculators who wash away the soil-cultivated root system and can produce them within a few hours, and within a few days the flowers bloom and fade and fall! Therefore, at present, for those owners who cannot provide a shelf life for the goods, most are speculators. If a merchant cannot provide a shelf life for the goods, it is recommended not to buy, to avoid being cheated!
4. How to identify a truly professional hydroponic flower producer?

Driven by profit, many market speculators use various "formal" means in propaganda and information transmission channels to muddle through and fool the broad consumers and investors. In order to leave no foothold for so-called high-tech shell companies that have no real hydroponic flower technology, no base, no scale, and no technical personnel, yet rent a few offices for work inside national universities (such as Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, and so on), research institutes (such as the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Forestry, a certain research center, and so on), institutions under the Ministry of Agriculture (such as the Veteran Cadre Bureau of the Ministry of Agriculture, a certain technical center of the Ministry of Agriculture), or office buildings, and then start advertising to rake in money, and for "guerrilla" companies that transfer technology and then move to another place after one shot. It also deprives of a deceptive market those malicious operators who transfer some immature so-called "hydroponic flower technology" at low prices, and moreover it is for your benefit so that you can learn these truly genuine technologies.

The author solemnly reminds you: no matter where across the country or in any media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must keep your eyes open, be more vigilant, look at several more, and compare more; you must carefully compare unit scale, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality, and after-sales service, {{Remember: you must look at their flower shop products, and then ask for the phone numbers of their franchisees, and try as much as possible to go and take a look at the franchisees to confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide this to you, so then you must think thrice before acting. This is the most direct and final way to judge. Of course, besides this, those "high-level" companies will also, like "medical shills," "academic shills," "real estate shills," and "bar shills," fool you with the skill of the "great deceiver" Zhao Benshan, making it impossible to guard against!}}; you must carefully examine the authenticity of the technology, training capability, and relevant certificates; you must absolutely not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies, bringing you unnecessary economic and psychological losses. Besides distinguishing whether something is truly a hydroponic flower through the product route, in fact everyone only needs to be a bit more vigilant to see through the many speculators one by one. The following points of experience, several types


 How to apply foliar fertilization to hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponic flowers are a cultivation method under root oxygen-deficiency conditions, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of the flowers. In order to improve the quality of the flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves.

A fine-hole spray bottle should be used, and as far as possible the fertilizer solution should not be allowed to run off. The underside of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, and twice during the growth period, which can make hydroponic flowers flourish with luxuriant branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for foliage viewing and also for flower appreciation, such as Spathiphyllum, four-season begonia, bamboo joint begonia, and calla lily, during the budding stage a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week until the flowers open.

Why do so many people not grow flowers, but grow leaves

Neoregelia

Everyone has surely often seen ornamental bromeliads, but Neoregelia is not seen as often. In fact, many enthusiasts now favor this kind of bromeliad. It has many colors, higher ornamental value, and in different seasons and different environments the leaf color will change, which is very charming.

1. Neoregelia likes a warm, humid, and sunny environment. Only under bright light conditions can it flower normally and obtain the most beautiful leaves. It can be placed in a well-lit living room, balcony, or windowsill.

2. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C in summer and 15-18°C in winter. Below 10°C it is difficult to grow, and the nighttime minimum should be kept at 5°C.

3. The soil should be neutral or slightly acidic sandy loam mixed with leaf mold or peat soil.

Caladium

The first time Changhuahua saw Caladium, she thought it was so beautiful, so beautiful, so beautiful! This color combination is so vivid it dazzles the eyes!

1. Caladium likes a high-temperature, high-humidity, and semi-shade environment, and should avoid direct sunlight. Below 18°C, growth will slow.

2. From May to September is its vigorous growth period, and it should be given sufficient sunlight and fertilizer. In midsummer, besides normal watering, foliar water spraying should also be done 1-2 times to maintain humidity.

Purple heart

Purple heart has purple flowers and leaves, with branches either drooping or trailing, and has very high ornamental value. Keeping one pot at home trailing by the window is very eye-catching!

1. Purple heart is very easy to propagate by cuttings. It likes a warm and humid environment.

2. It is not strict about light, should avoid exposure to strong sun, is not cold-tolerant, and in northern regions cannot overwinter outdoors.

3. Purple heart is generally propagated by cuttings. Cut 5-8 cm branches and insert them into the soil, and they root very easily.

Heuchera

The most special thing about Heuchera is its leaves, in red, orange, yellow, and green, rich and colorful, and in different seasons, environments, and temperatures its leaf color will change. Especially in autumn, the color is particularly beautiful.

1. Heuchera is a perennial herbaceous flower that has only recently been introduced into China for landscaping. It is cold-tolerant, likes sun, and tolerates shade, but in summer should avoid direct sunlight.

2. Temperature has little effect on it; outdoors in winter it will not freeze to death.

3. For watering, water when dry and stop when wet. In summer, water can be moderately controlled to avoid root rot.

Fittonia

Some new varieties of Fittonia have been bred in recent years. The pink and red ones are especially eye-catching. What Huahua most wants to get is that girly pink Fittonia in the picture above.

1. The main propagation method of Fittonia is cuttings, and May to September, when the temperature is slightly higher, is most suitable.

2. The growth temperature of Fittonia is 18-25°C. Its cold tolerance is relatively poor, and below 10°C it will suffer cold damage or even die.

3. Fittonia does not like especially strong light and has relatively strong shade tolerance, but it also cannot be completely without light. It is best placed on a south-facing windowsill.

Variegated star jasmine

Trachelospermum is an evergreen woody vine with brilliant flowers and strong vitality. It is a commonly used landscaping plant, but it is also quite good to grow as a potted plant at home.

1. Variegated star jasmine is suitable for survival in well-drained acidic and neutral soil environments, and is drought-tolerant and cold-tolerant.

2. To obtain brilliant colors, good light conditions are necessary.

3. Variegated star jasmine can be propagated by cuttings in any season of the year, and the rooting rate in both spring and autumn can reach more than 98%.

Golden star jasmine

Golden star jasmine, also known as golden variegated star jasmine, golden-leaf star jasmine, and so on, is native to Japan and is a variety of Asian star jasmine.

After exposure to light, the leaf color can change to bright red, pure white, golden yellow, bronze, orange-red, and so on. The care method is the same as for variegated star jasmine, so Huahua will not ramble on!

Cordyline

Cordyline has a beautiful plant shape and gorgeous, elegant colors, with good ornamental value. Moreover, Cordyline is also a medicinal plant; its flowers, leaves, and roots can all be used as medicine.

1. Cordyline likes a high-temperature and humid climate and is a semi-shade plant. It can be maintained indoors, and some households also cut off the branches and grow them hydroponically, which is very beautiful.

2. Cordyline is rich in humus and likes well-drained acidic soil. It is not drought-tolerant and should avoid alkaline soil, otherwise the new leaves will lose color.