What are the care methods for the Japanese late cherry?

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

The Japanese late cherry is not heat-tolerant. In summer, if the temperature exceeds 35°C, we need to open both ends of the shed for ventilation. We can spray water outside the plastic shed, which both cools the temperature and avoids excessive watering that would make the vermiculite too wet. In summer, never expose it to direct sunlight! The above is about the difference between the Japanese early cherry and the late cherry

The above is about the difference between the Japanese early cherry and the late cherry. I hope it can be helpful to you, and thank you for reading!

The uses of the Japanese late cherry, care knowledge for the Japanese late cherry, classification of the Japanese late cherry

Flower and Bonsai Network introduction: What Flower and Bonsai Network shares with you today is an article about the uses of the Japanese late cherry, care knowledge for the Japanese late cherry, and classification of the Japanese late cherry. Let's take a look.

The Japanese late cherry is one of the cherry blossoms. It blooms beautifully and is suitable for ornamental viewing. So besides this ornamental use, does the Japanese late cherry have any other uses?

The Japanese late cherry is a famous ornamental plant. Its flower buds have the medicinal value of "relieving cough and dispelling wind."

The ornamental use of the Japanese late cherry

When cultivating the Japanese late cherry, its most prominent use is probably its ornamental value.

The Japanese late cherry has large flowers and is fragrant. When it blooms, the whole tree is covered in flowers, giving a feeling of a profusion of blooms. Generally speaking, planting beautiful Japanese late cherries in groups can fully bring out their ornamental value.

The Japanese late cherry has several varieties. When planted in patches, whether in scenic gardens, courtyards, or beside roads, the Japanese late cherry can play a role in beautifying the environment and creating a different kind of natural scenery.

The medicinal use of the Japanese late cherry

Besides being ornamental, the Japanese late cherry also has certain medicinal effects.

The medicinal part of the Japanese late cherry is mainly its flower buds. The flower buds of the Japanese late cherry have cough-relieving and wind-dispelling effects. After being used as medicine, they can treat some respiratory diseases such as cough and bronchitis. The effect is quite significant.

The edible use of the Japanese late cherry

The Japanese late cherry not only blooms beautifully and has strong ornamental value and can be used as medicine, it also has an edible use. The edible part of the Japanese late cherry is its many flowers.

The fresh flowers of the Japanese late cherry can be used as an added ingredient in some processed foods, made into cherry cakes or cherry pastries. The resulting foods are also quite delicious.

In addition, it can also be made into cherry wine for people to drink. Cherry wine has the effect of softening blood vessels and regulating qi and blood.

Care knowledge for the Japanese late cherry

Cultivation techniques for the Japanese late cherry

The Japanese late cherry has large flowers, double petals, bright colors, a fragrant scent, and a long flowering period, making it an excellent variety among cherry blossoms. Its graft propagation is slow to form seedlings and the operation is cumbersome, while hardwood cuttings are also difficult to root. Using vermiculite as the substrate and taking one-year-old branches with tender shoots during the full flowering period for cuttings, the survival rate is very high.

Seedling raising methods
Substrate
Use expanded vermiculite as the substrate, maintain a pH value of 6.2. At night, the temperature of the vermiculite seedling bed is 2°C to 3°C higher than that of the soil bed, while at noon the temperature is 1°C to 2°C lower than that of the soil bed, indicating that the vermiculite seedling bed has a small day-night temperature difference, greater accumulated temperature, and good insulation effect, which is beneficial to root growth. In production, granular vermiculite is preferred, as it has good permeability and is beneficial to rooting. Powdery vermiculite is sticky and has poor air permeability. When raising seedlings, do not mix soil into the vermiculite, otherwise root rot is likely.
Cutting time
It can be done from April to July. The survival rate of cuttings is highest during the full flowering period of the cherry, when the plant is in the peak period of physiological activity and is easy to root. Cuttings taken on April 28, after transplanting on June 28, did not suffer transplant shock; 5 days later they sprouted new buds of 0.5 cm, and after 4 years of cultivation the tree was full of flowers.
Selection and treatment of cuttings
(1) Selection of cuttings: Cut 15 cm long branches from robust mother trees, with the upper end bearing new shoots of the current year and the lower end being one-year-old branches. The leaves on the new shoots can produce nutrients, and the one-year-old branches have already become woody, making cuttings easy to survive. Most cuttings from 3- to 6-year-old branches rot and die. The survival rate of cuttings is related to age; the older the branch, the weaker its physiological function and the harder it is to survive.
(2) Treatment of cuttings: Before insertion, remove the leaves on the part to be inserted into the vermiculite and keep the upper leaves. Quickly dip the cuttings in 1000 ppm naphthaleneacetic acid. That is: insert the base of the cutting 2 to 3 cm into the 1000 ppm naphthaleneacetic acid solution, then immediately take it out for cutting, dipping and inserting as you go.
Cutting method
Use bricks to build a seedling bed 20 cm high and 1 m wide (the length depends on how many cuttings there are). Spread 2 to 3 cm of river sand on the bottom layer of the seedling bed, then fill in 15 cm of vermiculite. Install one centrifugal nozzle every 1 m, or connect a sprayer wand to a tap water pipe for spraying. Build a shade shed in early May, use branches around it as a fence to block wind, and to keep warm and moist, a plastic shed cover can also be set up on the seedling bed. Insert the cuttings vertically in rows into the vermiculite, with a plant spacing of 2 cm and a row spacing of 4 cm, and water thoroughly after insertion. A cutting depth of 6 to 8 cm is appropriate, because according to observation, the temperature at a depth of 5 cm is on average 2°C to 4°C higher than at a depth of 10 cm, and most callus tissue and adventitious roots grow at 6 to 8 cm.
Management after cutting
Frequent spraying to keep the leaf surface moist is the key to survival. At noon when the temperature is high, the number of sprays should be even greater and the intervals shorter. At night and in the morning when there is dew, spraying can be omitted. Keep the relative air humidity above 90% and the vermiculite humidity at 58% to 60%. This target must be reached before rooting, and even more attention should be paid before callus tissue forms. In early May, a shade shed should be set up to prevent exposure to the hot sun. When the temperature inside the plastic shed exceeds 35°C, open both ends of the shed for ventilation, and after the temperature drops to 27°C, seal it again. When the weather is too hot, spray water outside the plastic shed, which both cools the temperature and avoids excessive watering that would make the vermiculite too wet.
Transplanting time and method
Transplant in time when the roots of the cuttings grow to 6 to 8 cm. If transplanted too late, the roots of the cuttings will turn brown and rot, and the leaves will gradually turn yellow. This is because vermiculite can only keep warm, retain moisture, and provide aeration, playing a role in promoting rooting, but it has no nutrients to supply the cuttings for continued growth. In addition, for cuttings with few roots or only callus tissue and no roots, they should remain in the seedling bed and be transplanted after the roots have grown well.
Creating an environment suitable for the continued growth of the cutting seedlings is the key to ensuring survival after transplanting. Choose a fertile plot that does not accumulate water, make a north-south oriented bed 8 m long and 0.3 m wide, mix in sandy loam and deep plow 30 cm, then cover with 2 cm of sandy loam. Level the bed surface, plant one row per bed, with a plant spacing of 30 cm. Place the root system of the cutting together with the surrounding vermiculite into the planting hole, and cover the hole fully with sandy soil. Do not press hard, to prevent breaking the tender roots. Then irrigate the bed surface thoroughly with water, and build a 1.2 m high shade shed above it. Spray 2 to 3 times a day to keep the leaf surface moist, and water the ground frequently, alternating between dry and wet. Seedlings transplanted this way do not suffer transplant shock, have a high survival rate, and grow normally.
The effect of treatment with IBA
Research results show that: treating the middle and basal segments of current-year branches on 1-year-old Japanese late cherry trees with IBA can extremely significantly increase the rooting rate of their cuttings, and at the same time extremely significantly improve the quality of the cutting seedlings (reflected here by the rate of strong seedlings). The rooting rate and strong seedling rate of the basal segment are better than those of the middle segment. For green branch cuttings of the Japanese late cherry, when treated with IBA, it is appropriate to select the basal segment of current-year branches from 1-year-old trees as cuttings.
Planting and cultivation
1. Seed cultivation - few seeds
2. Branch cuttings rooting - Prunus plants are difficult to root from cuttings, possibly related to the accumulation of inert substances in dormant branches
3. Non-test-tube rapid propagation technology

Disease control of the Japanese late cherry

Disease control
Root nodule disease
When the disease occurs, tumor-like growths appear on the roots of the plant, varied in shape and size, brown to dark brown in color, with a rough epidermis that often shows cracking. The affected parts are on the ground or near the ground at the root crown or at the junction of the rootstock and scion. After being attacked, the plant often shows poor growth and stunted size.
Control method: Dig up the affected plant, wash off the soil, soak the roots in a 1% copper sulfate solution for 5 to 8 minutes, rinse after soaking, and then replant; cut off the tumor-like growths and apply 0.1% mercuric chloride solution to the wounds, then replant.
Anthracnose
In the early stage of the disease, round spots appear on young leaves. After the spots heal, they can form holes. After June, the leaves harden, and the spots on the leaf surface become rough, brown irregular spots. When the disease is severe, it can cause a large number of fallen leaves and cause dead buds.
Control method: Alternately spray with 70% mancozeb wettable granules at 1000 times dilution, or 50% carbendazim wettable granules at 500 times dilution, and 50% thiram wettable granules at 1000 times dilution, spraying 3 to 4 times in a row, with each interval of 7 to 10 days; during the disease period, do not spray the leaves of the plant.
Brown spot shot-hole disease
When the disease occurs, small gray-brown round dots first appear on the leaves. As the disease develops, round spots about 3 cm in diameter gradually form. The spot boundaries are clear, purple-brown on the outside and white-brown in the middle, with concentric rings. After the spots die and fall off, irregular holes form.
Control method: After the disease occurs, spray 50% Kasumin at 1000 times dilution for control, once every 10 days, continuously spraying 3 to 4 times, which can effectively control the disease.

Variety classification of the Japanese late cherry

In Japan, horticultural classification collectively calls wild species "mountain cherry," and artificially selected and naturally mutated ones are called "Sato cherry." The cherry varieties commonly seen in Chinese gardens mainly include:
Yunnan early cherry（P.majestica）
Native to Yunnan. The flowering period is from late February to early March. It blooms before leafing out, with deep red flowers, about 25 petals, a flower diameter of about 2.5 cm, flowers in a half-open state, drooping, with red sepals. Young leaves are tea-brown.
Somei Yoshino（Prunus x yedoensis）
An important cultivated variety of Japanese cherry, a hybrid of Oshima cherry and Edo higan cherry, inheriting respectively the large flowers of the former and the blooming-before-leafing trait of the latter. The flowering period is mid-March, single-petaled flowers, light pink, with 4 to 5 flowers forming a raceme, and hairs on the sepals and pedicels. The tree is tall, reaching 10 to 15 m.
Oshima cherry（P.lannesiana var.speciosa）
A representative of wild cherry, the tree can reach 15 m in height. The flowering period is mid-March, with flowers and leaves appearing at the same time. The flowers are white, single-petaled, opening in corymbs. The calyx tube is long bell-shaped, the sepals are lanceolate with serrated edges, and the flower as a whole is hairless. Many horticultural cherry varieties are derived from Oshima cherry.
Kanzan（P.lannesiana Sekiyama）
A variety of the Japanese late cherry, widely planted in China. The flowering period is late March or early April, with flowers and leaves appearing at the same time. The flowers are deep red, about 6 cm in diameter, with about 30 petals. Two pistils are leaf-like, so it cannot set fruit, and the pedicels are thick and long. Young leaves are tea-brown. The small branches are numerous and curve upward.
Peony cherry(red flowers, pink flowers)
Ameyadori(white flowers)

The uses of the Japanese late cherry

Ornamental use

Medicinal value

The above is an introduction to the cultivation methods of the Japanese late cherry! I hope reading this article can be helpful to you!