A detailed guide to ornamental peach care, easy for beginners to master
1. Soil.
Ornamental peach likes dry, airy conditions, so the soil for planting it should have good permeability and be suitable for drainage; neutral or slightly alkaline sandy soil is more suitable for its growth.
2. Watering.
Ornamental peach is fairly drought-tolerant and not suited to frequent watering. It only needs one watering each in early spring and late autumn; in other seasons, watering is generally unnecessary. Of course, in summer, when high temperatures and drought make water shortage likely, it should still be watered moderately according to its growth. On rainy days, drainage should also be done well to prevent waterlogging from causing root rot.
3. Sunlight.
Ornamental peach likes a dry, sunny environment. Whether planting it in the ground or placing it as a potted plant, choose a spot not shaded by tall trees; low-lying places are not suitable for its growth.
4. Temperature.
Ornamental peach is fairly cold-tolerant and usually blooms around Qingming Festival, in March to April. But if you want a potted ornamental peach to bloom around Spring Festival, it can be kept in a cold room for the winter during the Major Snow period, then moved indoors three to five days before Spring Festival, with the indoor temperature kept at 10-25 degrees, and it will slowly begin to bloom within a few days.

5. Fertilizing.
Although ornamental peach likes fertilizer, it should not be fertilized too much. Generally, nutrient-rich livestock manure can be used as a base fertilizer; before winter, sesame paste fertilizer residue can be applied once; in June to July, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied once or twice, which can promote flower bud differentiation.
6. Pests.
The main diseases of ornamental peach are white rust and brown rot. Once infected, targeted sprays can be used for treatment. Its main pests are aphids and leafhoppers, which can be controlled by spraying a 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate diluted 1,000 times.
7. Pruning.
Ornamental peach is mostly pruned after flowering. Diseased branches, drooping branches, dead branches, and weak thin branches should all be cut off, and branches that have already bloomed should be shortened, leaving only two or three buds at the base. When the remaining branches grow to 30 cm, pinch out the growing tips to help flower bud differentiation.
How to grow ornamental peach and how to make an ornamental peach bonsai
Ornamental peach has colorful, gorgeous flowers and a long flowering period, making it a rare ornamental plant. It is now also used in bonsai making to decorate the home. So how do you grow ornamental peach? Next, Xiao Qi will share how to grow ornamental peach and how to make an ornamental peach bonsai.
I. How to grow ornamental peach
1. Soil: Ornamental peach likes fertile, well-permeable, neutral or slightly alkaline sandy loam. When planted in heavy clay soil or heavily saline-alkaline land, the plant not only fails to bloom, but also grows weakly and suffers severe pests and diseases.
2. Watering: Ornamental peach is drought-tolerant and afraid of excessive moisture. Generally, apart from one watering each in early spring and late autumn, for the thawing water and the freezing water, no watering is needed in other seasons. But in hot summer weather, if drought continues, appropriate watering is very necessary. On rainy days, drainage should also be done well to prevent excessive water from rotting the roots and causing the plant to die.
3. Sunlight: Ornamental peach likes a dry, sunny environment, so when planting, choose a higher spot with no shade. It should not be planted by ditches or ponds, nor beside large trees with broad crowns, so as not to affect its ventilation and light.
4. Temperature: Ornamental peach is fairly cold-tolerant. It normally blooms around Qingming Festival. If you want it to bloom during Spring Festival, place the ornamental peach bonsai in a sheltered, sunny spot outdoors for winter chilling, then move it indoors about 60 days before Spring Festival, keeping the room temperature at 15℃-20℃.
5. Fertilizing: Ornamental peach likes fertilizer, but not too much. Fully decomposed and fermented cow or horse manure can be used as a base fertilizer. Before winter each year, apply some sesame paste residue. In June to July, applying fast-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer 1 to 2 times can promote flower bud differentiation.
6. Pests: The main diseases of ornamental peach are white rust and brown rot. For white rust, spray a 50% carboxin wettable powder at 2,000 times dilution; for brown rot, spray a 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 500 times dilution. Pests include aphids and leafhoppers, controlled by spraying a 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1,000 times dilution.
7. Pruning: Ornamental peach is generally pruned after flowering. Along with shaping, cut off diseased branches, drooping branches, inner-canopy branches, dead branches, weak thin branches, and water sprouts, and also shorten branches that have already bloomed, leaving only 2 to 3 buds at the base. When these branches grow to 30 cm, pinch out the tips in time to promote plump axillary buds and help flower bud differentiation.
II. How to make an ornamental peach bonsai
Botanically, ornamental peach is a variety of peach. Its form is the same as peach, its flowering period is longer than that of plum blossom, its flowers are full and lush, and its colors are vivid. As a potted plant, its flowering period can also be controlled artificially, making it a good flower species for cut flowers and for decorating rooms, halls, and meeting venues. After years of practice, flower lovers have summarized how to make an ornamental peach bonsai.
a. Raising seedlings and grafting: Choose wild peach pits (mountain peach pits are best), plant them after autumn at the edge of a flower bed and in a sunny spot in front of the house, or plant them in a whole bed with a plant spacing of 0.2 m and a row spacing of 0.5 m, and they will sprout the following spring; or collect small seedlings from fields, courtyards, and roadsides to pot. When the trunk diameter of the peach seedling grows to 0.8-1.5 cm, around July, select ornamental peaches of different colors as scions and carry out bud grafting. After 7-10 days, if the leaf stalk falls off at a touch, it indicates the graft has taken; otherwise, carry out a second bud grafting until it takes.
b. Growing the stock: Move the successfully grafted peach seedlings into the garden in the second spring. Around Awakening of Insects, cut them off 1.5-2.0 cm above the grafted bud to encourage the grafted bud to grow. During this period, manage the plant normally, and shape and bend it according to the type of pot needed for later potting. After a year of growing the stock, many flower buds form on the branches, and the trunk diameter has reached about 2 cm. At this point, the bonsai has begun to take shape.
c. Controlling the flowering period: Ornamental peach normally blooms around Qingming. If you want it to bloom during Spring Festival, choose a plant with thick, strong branches and plump flower buds, pot it after autumn, place it in a sheltered, sunny spot outdoors for winter chilling, move it indoors 60 days before Spring Festival, keep the room temperature at 15-20℃, and it will produce bright flowers at Spring Festival.
The above arehow to grow ornamental peachandhow to make an ornamental peach bonsaimethods. Friends who like ornamental peach can learn about them. Making an ornamental peach bonsai yourself to decorate the home is a good choice.
How to grow ornamental peach, ornamental peach pictures
How to grow ornamental peach and points to note
Ornamental peach, also known as thousand-petal peach blossom, is a variety of peach tree. It belongs to the semi-double and double-flowered ornamental peach blossom group, collectively called ornamental peach. In East China, the flowering period of ornamental peach is from March to April. The flowers are full and lush, the colors are vivid and rich, and the flower forms are many. Common varieties include red-flowered green-leaf ornamental peach, red-flowered red-leaf ornamental peach, and the white-and-red bicolor "sprinkled gold" ornamental peach, among many other varieties. Ornamental peach has high ornamental value and is a beautiful plant seen everywhere in residential communities, parks, and streets.
Ornamental peach flowers are large and vivid, very beautiful when in bloom, and as potted plants they can be made into lovely bonsai, which is great fun. How should ornamental peach be grown at home? Let's learn about it together!
How to grow ornamental peach
Choosing pots and soil
To grow ornamental peach, you need to choose suitable pots and soil. For pots, mainly choose purple clay pottery pots or glazed pottery pots, to match the color of ornamental peach and create a good flowering effect. For soil, choose loose, breathable, well-draining soil with a certain fertility.
Light and temperature
Ornamental peach likes a warm environment, can tolerate high temperatures, is cold-tolerant, and likes light. It can be placed in a sunny spot for care and must not be too shady, which would reduce flowering. Ornamental peach is cold-tolerant, but note that in northern regions it should be kept indoors for the winter, while in southern regions it can be placed outdoors in a sunny spot.
Water and fertilizer management
Ornamental peach needs the soil kept moist in normal times. It is drought-tolerant but afraid of excessive moisture. Watering should be moderate. During the flowering period, watering should be sufficient. In early spring and late autumn, the thawing water and freezing water need to be given. In summer, when temperatures are high, water appropriately more, but not too much. Take care to drain promptly and avoid waterlogging. Ornamental peach likes fertilizer, but it should not be applied too much. When planting, some base fertilizer can be applied, and before winter, some base fertilizer should also be applied. Note that fertilization should be based on the plant's growth condition; if growth is vigorous, reduce fertilization. Before flowering, a topdressing of phosphorus fertilizer can be applied to promote flowering.
Propagation methods
Ornamental peach is mainly propagated by grafting. Choose a suitable rootstock and graft by bud grafting or scion grafting; after it takes, carry out good care and management.
To maintain good quality, grafting must be used for propagation, with mountain wild peach as the rootstock. Using summer bud grafting techniques, the grafting survival rate can reach more than 90%. The specific steps are as follows:
1. Scion selection. The mother ornamental peach tree should be robust with no pests or diseases and have excellent flowers and fruits. Select vigorous new shoots of the current year with plump buds as scions.
2. Grafting method. For summer bud grafting, a bud patch can be cut, or a bud patch with a little wood. Peel the bark at the stem of the rootstock. Cut the scion from the mother tree, that is, remove the leaves but keep the leaf stalks. At 1 cm below the scion bud, cut upward with the tip of a knife to a length of 1.5-2 cm; the inner side of the bud should carry a little wood, with the bud in the middle of the graft bud. For the rootstock, choose a seedling about as thick as a pencil, with the stem 3-5 cm from the ground, and use the vertical part on the north side of the trunk. Make the first cut vertically with a little wood, 2 cm long; cut away 1/2-2/3 of the peeled bark. Insert the graft bud into the rootstock so the cambium layers fit closely, and especially note that no gap is left at the lower part of the cut on the rootstock, so they bind tightly. Below the graft bud, wrap 2 turns to the left with plastic tape, then 2 turns to the right, tying upward evenly so as to prevent the bud from drying out and ensure a firm union, with the graft bud exposed. Note the bud grafting time: in the south, mid-June to mid-July is best; in the north, mid-July to mid-August is preferable.
3. Aftercare. 10-15 days after bud grafting, if the leaf stalk turns yellow and falls off, that is a sign it has taken; if the leaf stalk turns black, it means it has not taken. For surviving seedlings, after new buds grow and healing is complete, remove the plastic tape and cut the rootstock 1 cm above the graft union. After sprouting, remove sprouting buds from the rootstock, and combine this with fertilization, generally applying compound fertilizer 1-2 times to promote lignification of the new shoots of the scion so they have cold resistance. To control aphids, spray a 2,000-times dimethoate solution. When leaf curl disease occurs on the leaves, lime sulfur mixture can be used.
Ornamental peach likes high temperatures, has a certain cold tolerance, likes light, is drought-tolerant, and likes fertile, well-draining soil. It is not tolerant of excessive moisture, and grows poorly in both alkaline and heavy clay soil. Basic cultivation methods:
1. Grafting propagation. Seedlings for ornamental peach bonsai are usually obtained through grafting. Generally, peach, plum, or apricot seedlings are used as rootstock, and bud grafting is carried out in August. Grafting can be used to make one tree bear two or more kinds of flowers. To shorten the time needed to make a bonsai, naturally occurring wild stumps can also be used as rootstock for grafting.
2. Making method. Take the successfully grafted peach seedling and, around Awakening of Insects the following year, cut it off 1.5 cm-2.0 cm above the grafted bud to encourage the grafted bud to grow. During this period, potting and shaping pruning can be carried out at the same time. For ornamental peach, loose, breathable, drainage- and fertility-retaining sandy soil can be used. For the pot, choose a purple clay pottery pot or glazed pottery pot whose color contrasts with the flower color. Shaping and pruning should be carried out gradually according to the tree's vigor and growth and your own aesthetic sense, using methods such as thinning, twisting branches, pulling branches, bending, shortening, heading back, creating scars, and thinning flowers. To create a uniquely elegant masterpiece, note that its branches and trunk should be sparse rather than dense; if dense, it loses charm.
3. Flowering period control. When the bonsai has begun to take shape, control the flowering period. Ornamental peach normally blooms around Qingming Festival. If you want it to bloom during Spring Festival, place the ornamental peach bonsai in a sheltered, sunny spot outdoors for winter chilling, then move it indoors about 60 days before Spring Festival, keeping the room temperature at 15℃-20℃.
4. Daily care. Ornamental peach likes light and should be placed in a sheltered spot; never place it in a drafty opening. During the flower bud differentiation period from July to August, appropriately withhold water to promote flower bud differentiation. During the winter dormancy period, reduce watering. Fertilizer and water are better kept light and dilute; never use too much nitrogen fertilizer, lest the branches and leaves grow excessively and fail to form flower buds. Generally, apply base fertilizer once each winter. Before flowering, the phosphorus and potassium fertilizer content can be increased. In winter or from after flowering until fruit set, fertilization is not suitable, to avoid flower and fruit drop. During the growing season, ornamental peach should be thinned of overly dense flowering branches along with shaping; in the peak growing season, pinch out the tips 1-2 times. Before flowering and around June, appropriately shorten long branches to encourage more flowering branches. Repot every 3-5 years, preferably before budbreak in spring.
5. Pest and disease control. The main diseases of ornamental peach are white rust and brown rot. For white rust, spray a 50% carboxin wettable powder at 2,000 times dilution; for brown rot, spray a 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 500 times dilution. Pests include aphids and leafhoppers, controlled by spraying a 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1,000 times dilution.
Points to note when growing ornamental peach
Pruning
Ornamental peach is generally pruned during the dormant period or after flowering. Pruning ornamental peach is mainly for shaping, cutting off branches that affect its tree form; after flowering, the main task is pruning flowering branches, which can make the tree form attractive and increase flowering. Dead branches, diseased branches, and weak branches can be cut off to promote good growth.
Repotting
Ornamental peach is generally repotted once every 1-2 years, during the dormant period. When repotting, the growing medium can be replaced and the roots trimmed.
Pests and diseases
Common diseases of ornamental peach include leaf curl disease, gummosis, and anthracnose, while pests include aphids, scale insects, red spider mites, and moths.
Making an ornamental peach bonsai
(I) Botanical knowledge
It belongs to the Rosaceae family, Prunus genus. It is a deciduous small tree with grayish-brown bark and obvious lenticels; the twigs are smooth and reddish-brown. The leaves are elliptic-lanceolate with fine dense serrations along the edges. From March to April, flowers and leaves appear together. The flowers are solitary, double, pink, brilliant and fragrant, gorgeously charming. Main forms:
1. Single-flowered white ornamental peach, with pure white, single flowers, very elegant.
2. Thousand-petal white ornamental peach, with pure white, semi-double flowers.
3. Red-flowered ornamental peach, with red, double flowers.
4. Crimson peach, with deep red flowers, brilliant and gorgeous.
5. Scarlet peach, also called Suzhou peach blossom. The flowers are bright red, double like cut velvet. Its flowering period is later than that of ornamental peach, and the flower color is very pleasing.
6. Shouxing peach, also known as dwarf peach. The tree is short and small, with thick branches and dense leaves. The flowers are red and white, double.
7. Sprinkled gold ornamental peach, also known as Erqiao ornamental peach. The flowers are double; the same plant bears red and white flowers, or the same flower has red and white colors, or even the same petal has two colors.
8. Weeping ornamental peach, with arching, drooping branches and double flowers in red, white, and pink, with a graceful tree posture.
Ornamental peach is produced in the provinces and regions of North China, Central China, and Southwest China, and is very commonly cultivated.
It likes light, is drought-tolerant, is not tolerant of excessive moisture, and likes a warm, humid climate. It grows best in the Yangtze River basin area. It is suitable for fertile, deep, well-draining loam, and avoids alkaline soil and heavy clay soil. Peach trees have strong sprouting ability and tolerate pruning, but their lifespan is relatively short, generally only 30-50 years.
(II) Material collection and cultivation measures
Artificial propagation: Ornamental peaches with vivid flowers and double petals mostly do not set fruit, so grafting is generally used for propagation. The rootstock uses wild peach seedlings, and plum or apricot seedlings can also be used. Grafting is divided into scion grafting and bud grafting. For scion grafting, select vigorous flowering branches of excellent varieties as scions, and carry out cut grafting or side grafting in February to March in spring, in the same way as plum grafting. Bud grafting is especially easy to succeed and is best carried out in mid-to-late August. The scion uses buds from the middle of new shoots of the current year; collect and use them immediately when grafting, remove the leaves, and keep the leaf stalks. From 1 cm below the bud, cut upward with a knife to a length of 1.5-2 cm; the inner side of the bud patch should carry a little wood, with the bud in the center of the scion. On the rootstock, 3-5 cm from the ground, choose the upright side facing north, and make a vertical cut 2 cm long, deep enough to reach the wood. Keep 1/3-1/2 of the peeled bark, cut off the upper part, insert the bud into the cut on the rootstock, fitting the cambium closely, with no gap left at the lower part, then bind it from bottom to top with plastic film strips, exposing the graft bud, so that it binds firmly. After the graft takes, in the following spring before new leaves grow, remove the plastic film strips and cut off the rootstock 1 cm above the graft bud. After sprouting, apply a topdressing of fast-acting fertilizer.
(III) Potting process
Choosing a pot: During the period of developing the tree's basic form, ornamental peach is mostly grown in clay pots; after it takes shape, use a medium-deep glazed pottery pot. The color should be bright and lively, and preferably have a certain contrast with the flower color.
Soil: Ornamental peach has low soil requirements and prefers fertile, loose sandy loam. For potting, river mud or garden soil mixed with 30-40% rice husk ash can be used as the growing medium.
Planting: When potting, it is mostly planted at a slant to make shaping and creating momentum easier. The best planting time is before budbreak in spring, and shaping pruning can be carried out at the same time. When potting, decomposed soybean cake crumbs and the like can be placed at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer.
(IV) Shaping techniques
Processing: Ornamental peach can generally be processed once the trunk reaches 1 cm in diameter. The trunk and large branches can be shaped by wrapping and bending, using either palm fiber or metal wire. The remaining branches are shaped by pruning. Processing is mostly done after flowering, and can also be done during the dormant period, but be careful not to bruise the flower buds.
Tree form: Ornamental peach is generally made into the slanting-trunk style, curved-trunk style, and weeping-branch style. The trunk should be thick and short, and the branches should spread out slantingly and horizontally. The Book of Songs has a line praising the peach: "The peach tree is young and tender, its blossoms bright and glowing." Peach trees have strong sprouting ability, and water sprouts easily disrupt the tree form, so timely pruning must be paid attention to. For the treatment of its branches, refer to plum blossom.