What are the precautions for sowing red bird coral (Pedilanthus tithymaloides)?
Seed selection Before sowing, we must first select the seeds. Seed selection is very important, because the quality of the seeds directly determines whether our sowing can succeed. 1. It is best to use seeds harvested in the current year, because the longer the seeds are stored, the lower their germination rate.
Seed selection
Before sowing, we must first select the seeds. Seed selection is very important, because the quality of the seeds directly determines whether our sowing can succeed.
1. It is best to use seeds harvested in the current year, because the longer the seeds are stored, the lower their germination rate.
2. We should choose seeds that are plump and not deformed.
3. Choose seeds that have not been attacked by pests or diseases.
Disinfection
Disinfection of seeds includes two steps. First, disinfect the seeds, and then disinfect the sowing substrate. So how do we disinfect the seeds? It is recommended to soak the seeds in hot water for a quarter of an hour at about 60°C, and then use warm hot water to promote germination for 12-24 hours. Next, disinfect the sowing substrate. The best method is to put it in a pot and heat it until hot; any pests or diseases will be killed by the heat.
Germination promotion
Use warm hot water, about 38-40°C, to soak the seeds for 12-24 hours, until the seeds absorb water and swell. For very common seeds that germinate easily, this step can be skipped.
The above is the specific and detailed cultivation method for red bird coral. Have you learned it? Do you feel more confident about growing our red bird coral well? Now take action!
Red bird coral Pedilanthus tithymaloides Red bird coral illustrated guide: how to grow red bird coral / how to propagate red bird coral
Red bird coral profileRed bird coral Pedilanthus tithymaloides
Cultivation methods and precautions for red bird coral Introduction to red bird coral
Red bird coral is an evergreen shrub with green stems that often grow in a zigzag, curved manner, are fleshy, and contain toxic white milky sap. Leaves are alternate and green, ovate-lanceolate, leathery, with the midrib protruding beneath in a keel-like shape. Cup-shaped inflorescences are arranged in terminal cymes, with bright red involucres, blooming in summer. It blooms red or purple flowers throughout the year, and the tree shape resembles coral, hence the name red bird coral.
Bird-tongue coral, also known as iron-stem clove, belongs to the Euphorbiaceae family and the genus Pedilanthus. Evergreen shrub. Stems are green, often growing in a zigzag, curved manner, fleshy, and contain toxic white milky sap.
Red bird coral is native to the West Indies in Central America. It likes warmth and is suitable for places with sufficient but not too intense sunlight and good ventilation. It can also adapt to semi-shaded conditions in environments with excessively high temperatures. It requires loose, fertile, well-drained cultivation soil.
Morphological characteristics of red bird coral
Red bird coral is an evergreen shrub with green stems that often grow in a zigzag, curved manner, are fleshy, and contain toxic white milky sap. Leaves are alternate and green, ovate to ovate-oblong, with the midrib on the leaf underside protruding in a keel-like shape, leaf surfaces irregular, apex shortly pointed, margins wavy, ovate-lanceolate, leathery, with the midrib protruding beneath in a keel-like shape. Cup-shaped inflorescences are arranged in terminal cymes, with involucres bilaterally symmetrical, closed, bright red or purple, blooming in summer.
It blooms red or purple flowers throughout the year, and the tree shape resembles coral, hence the name red bird coral. Red bird coral is native to the West Indies in Central America. It likes warmth and is suitable for places with sufficient but not too intense sunlight and good ventilation. It can also adapt to semi-shaded conditions in environments with excessively high temperatures. It requires loose, fertile, well-drained cultivation soil.
Red bird coral is leathery, with the midrib protruding beneath in a keel-like shape. Cup-shaped inflorescences are arranged in terminal cymes, with bright red involucres, blooming in summer.
Ecological habits of red bird coral
Bird-tongue coral likes a warm, dry environment. The suitable growth temperature is 15-25°C. It fears cold and wind, likes light, and also tolerates semi-shade. It requires loose soil with good drainage.
Bird-tongue coral likes warmth and is suitable for places with sufficient but not too intense sunlight and good ventilation. It can also adapt to semi-shaded conditions in environments with excessively high temperatures.
Cultivation techniques for red bird coral
Potted red bird coral needs to be repotted once a year or every other year, carried out before it is moved outdoors in spring. The potting soil is usually a mixture of pond mud, leaf mold, and sand in equal parts. The flowerpot should also be chosen slightly smaller than a normal pot. If conditions permit, a layer of charcoal can be placed at the bottom of the pot to enhance drainage. Usually, do not water too much; it should be kept appropriately dry, and watered after the soil has dried completely. It is best to have 3 hours of light each day. Bird-tongue coral has low fertilizer requirements; during the growing season, applying a thin fertilizer 1-2 times a month is enough. In winter, move it indoors and keep it above 5°C to survive the winter safely. At this time, do not let the humidity be too high, otherwise the roots are prone to rot.
The cultivation site for red bird coral should be ventilated and let light through, and humidity should not be too high. Water normally during the growing period, but do not let it become too wet. Apply fertilizer as appropriate according to the plant's growth condition. As long as the leaf color is normal and the branches are green, fertilizer may be omitted. Shade it in summer and avoid exposure to scorching sun. In winter, the plant is in a semi-dormant state. At this time, keep the potting soil dry, place it in a sunny spot indoors, and maintain room temperature at 10°C, but it should not be too high. Repot every spring; when repotting, add and replace some new fertile culture soil. Regularly prune to encourage branching and cultivate a full plant shape.
Humidity management
It likes a moist or semi-dry climate environment and requires the relative air humidity of the growing environment to be 50-70%. When the relative air humidity is too low, the lower leaves turn yellow and fall off, and the upper leaves lose their luster.
Temperature management
Because it originates from subtropical regions, it has strict temperature requirements in winter and stops growing when the ambient temperature is below 8°C.
Light management
It has strong adaptability to light. When keeping it indoors, place it in a place with bright light as much as possible, such as a well-lit living room, bedroom, study, and similar places. After keeping it indoors for a period (about one month), move it outdoors to a shaded place (with insulation conditions in winter) for a period (about one month), and alternate in this way.
Fertilizer and water management
For potted plants, in addition to adding organic fertilizer when potting, appropriate fertilizer and water management should also be carried out during regular care. Spring, summer, and autumn: These three seasons are its peak growing seasons. Fertilizer and water management follows the cycle of "Huabao" - clear water - "Huabao" - clear water, with an interval of about 1-4 days. On sunny days or during high temperatures, the interval is shorter; on rainy days or during low temperatures, the interval is longer or no watering is done. Winter: During the winter dormant period, the main task is to control fertilizer and water. Fertilizer and water management follows the cycle of "Huabao" - clear water - clear water - "Huabao" - clear water - clear water, with an interval of about 3-7 days. On sunny days or during high temperatures, the interval is shorter; on rainy days or during low temperatures, the interval is longer or no watering is done.
For plants grown in the ground, in spring and summer, apply fertilizer and water 2-4 times according to drought conditions: first open a small ring-shaped trench 30-100 cm away from the root crown (the larger the plant, the farther from the root crown), with the trench width and depth both 20 cm. Sprinkle 25-50 jin of organic fertilizer into the trench, or 1-5 liang of granular compound fertilizer (chemical fertilizer), and then water thoroughly. After winter begins and before spring arrives, apply fertilizer once more in the same way as above, but do not water.
Pruning
In winter, when the plant enters dormancy or semi-dormancy, cut off weak, pest- or disease-affected, dead, and overly dense branches. Branch organization can also be combined with cuttings.
Repotting
As long as it is cared for properly, it will grow very quickly. When it grows to a certain size, consider moving it to a slightly larger pot so it can continue to grow vigorously. The culture soil and component ratio used for repotting can be one of the following: vegetable garden soil: cinder = 3:1; or garden soil: medium-coarse river sand: sawdust (mushroom residue) = 4:1:2; or one of paddy soil, pond mud, or leaf mold.
Removing from the pot
Place the flower to be repotted on the ground. First pat the sides of the pot gently with the palm of your hand so the root system is disturbed and separates from the pot wall. Turn the flowerpot upside down and place it on your left hand. Gently hold the plant between the index finger and middle finger of your left hand, with your wrist and fingertips against the rim of the pot. Pat the bottom of the pot with your right hand, then use your thumb to push the root soil downward from the bottom hole so the plant comes out. After it comes out, gently pat the potting soil with both palms so excess soil falls off.
Flowerpot preparation
Choose a flowerpot of an appropriate size. Cover the bottom hole of the pot with two pieces of tile or thin foam pieces, ensuring both that the potting soil is not washed out by water and that excess water can flow out in time. On top of the tile or foam, place a layer of expanded clay or crushed red bricks as a drainage layer, about 2-3 cm thick. On the drainage layer, place organic fertilizer, about 1-3 cm thick. On the fertilizer, place a thin layer of substrate, about 2 cm thick, to separate the root system from the fertilizer. Finally, put the plant in, fill with nutrient soil, and leave about 2-3 cm from the pot rim.
Cultivation methods and care points for red bird coral
Red bird coral likes warmth and tolerates drought. The suitable growth temperature is 23°C to 30°C. After being frozen, the leaves will turn white and fall off. It tolerates shade; a semi-shaded cultivation site is beneficial for flowering and makes the leaf color more attractive. It fears wind and is suitable for growing in a dry, windless environment. The cultivation soil should be sandy loam with good drainage and aeration. Repot once a year or every other year. When branches are too long, shorten them or support them with stakes. If there are few branches, prune the branches as appropriate to encourage more side branches.
During the growing period, watering should be controlled. Generally, water again after the soil dries. Organic fertilizer or a small amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizer can be used for fertilization. In winter, reduce the amount of fertilizer and water supplied. Red bird coral is propagated by cuttings. In a greenhouse, cuttings can be taken throughout the year, but warm seasons are better for cuttings. Take stem tips or tender stems and cut them into 10 cm long stem segments as cuttings. The cuttings should first be dried in the shade, or the cut ends inserted into dry ash or dry soil so the sap is absorbed, and then they are inserted for rooting. The medium can be yellow sand, perlite, or rice husk ash. After the cuttings root, they can be transplanted into pots.
Daily care
1. Light
Red bird coral is not very strict about light. Under strong light, the leaves tend to be reddish; under semi-shade, they tend to be green. But do not let strong sunlight shine directly on it in summer, and do not place it in too dark a place indoors.
2. Temperature
Red bird coral likes warmth. In spring, summer, and autumn, ordinary room temperature is suitable for growth. In winter, when the temperature is below about 13°C, the leaves can turn white and fall off.
3. Watering
Red bird coral is a succulent plant and has strong drought tolerance. During the growing season, wait until half of the potting soil is dry before watering each time. In winter, water only a little when the potting soil is dry. Too much watering can cause mold disease and, in more serious cases, rot at the stem base.
4. Fertilization
During the growing period, apply compound fertilizer to the plant once a month.
5. Potting soil
Red bird coral is suitable for sandy loam with good drainage, loose texture, and fertility.
6. Propagation
Red bird coral can be propagated by cuttings using 5-15 cm long stem segments. Like other Euphorbiaceae plants, red bird coral exudes white milky sap once cut. If the cut end is immersed in water, the bleeding can be stopped. The cuttings should be dried in the shade for one day, allowing the cut ends to dry and seal before being inserted into the substrate.
Propagation methods for red bird coral
Bird-tongue coral is mainly propagated by cuttings and can be done throughout the year in a greenhouse, especially best in May and June. Take 2-3 nodes of stem tips about 8 cm long. Wait for the milky sap at the cut end to dry, and after it slightly shrinks, insert it into a medium such as sand. The medium should have a certain degree of moisture. After inserting, do not water for the time being, and do not cover with plastic film. Place it in semi-shade, water thoroughly once after 2 days, and then keep it slightly moist. It can take root in about 40 days.
Bird-tongue coral is mostly propagated by cuttings. In spring, cut terminal branch segments as cuttings. Apply charcoal powder to the cut surface of the cuttings or singe it with fire, then insert into sandy soil. The cutting soil should have a certain degree of moisture, and the insertion depth should be one half of the cutting. After inserting, do not water for the time being; water thoroughly once after two days. It can take root in about 30-45 days.
Sowing propagation
For tiny seeds that are difficult to pick up with hands or other tools, you can moisten one end of a toothpick with water and stick the seeds one by one onto the surface of the substrate, then cover with substrate 1 cm thick. Then place the sowing flowerpot into water, with the water depth at 1/2-2/3 of the height of the flowerpot, and let the water slowly soak up (this method is called the "pot soaking method"). For larger seeds that can be picked up with hands or other tools, place the seeds directly into the substrate and sow them point by point at a spacing of 3 x 5 cm. After sowing, cover with substrate, with a covering thickness of 2-3 times the size of the seeds. After sowing, use a sprayer or a fine-hole watering can to moisten the sowing substrate. Later, when the potting soil is slightly dry, water again. Still be careful not to water too forcefully, so as not to wash the seeds out.
Before sowing, seeds must first be selected. Whether the seeds are selected well or not directly determines whether sowing can succeed.
1. It is best to use seeds harvested in the current year. The longer the seeds are stored, the lower their germination rate.
2. Choose seeds that are plump and free of damage or deformity.
3. Choose seeds free of pests and diseases.
Disinfection
Disinfection includes two concepts: one refers to disinfecting the seeds, and the other refers to disinfecting the sowing substrate. For household seed disinfection, it is common to soak the seeds in hot water at about 60°C for a quarter of an hour, and then use warm hot water to promote germination for 12-24 hours. To disinfect the sowing substrate, the best method is to put it in a pot and heat it until hot; any pests or diseases will be killed by the heat.
Germination promotion
Use warm hot water (temperature similar to face-washing water) to soak the seeds for 12-24 hours, until the seeds absorb water and swell. For very common seeds that germinate easily, this step can be skipped.
Management after sowing
After sowing in late autumn, early spring, or winter, if a cold wave or low temperature occurs, the flowerpot can be wrapped in plastic film to help keep warm and moist. After the seedlings emerge, uncover the film in time, and let the seedlings receive sunlight before 9:30 every morning or after 3:30 in the afternoon; otherwise, the seedlings will grow very weak. After most of the seeds have emerged, appropriate thinning is needed: pull out diseased and unhealthy seedlings so that the remaining seedlings have a certain amount of space between them. When most seedlings have grown 3 or more leaves, they can be transplanted.
Cutting propagation
Softwood cuttings are often taken from current-year branches in late spring and early autumn, or hardwood cuttings are taken from last year's branches in early spring.
Cutting substrate
This refers to nutrient soil, river sand, peat soil, and other materials used for cuttings. For household cuttings, due to limited conditions, it is difficult to obtain an ideal cutting substrate. Medium-coarse river sand can also be used, but it should be rinsed several times with clean water before use. Sea sand and river sand from saline-alkali areas should not be used; they are not suitable for the growth of flowers and plants.
Selection of cuttings
When taking softwood cuttings, during the period of vigorous growth from late spring to early autumn, select robust current-year branches as cuttings. After cutting the branches off, choose the sturdy parts and cut them into segments 5-15 cm long, each with more than 3 leaf nodes. When cutting the cuttings, note that the upper cut should be made flat about 1 cm above the topmost leaf node, and the lower cut should be made diagonally about 0.5 cm below the lowest leaf node. Both the upper and lower cuts should be smooth (the knife should be sharp). When taking hardwood cuttings, after the temperature rises in early spring, select robust branches from last year as cuttings. Each cutting usually retains 3-4 nodes, and the cutting method is the same as for softwood cuttings.
Management after cutting
Temperature
The optimal temperature for cutting rooting is 20°C-30°C. Below 20°C, rooting is difficult and slow; above 30°C, the upper and lower cuts of the cuttings are easily infected by pathogens and rot, and the higher the temperature, the greater the proportion of rot. When low temperature is encountered after cutting, the main measure for keeping warm is to wrap the flowerpot or container used for cuttings with plastic film. When the temperature is too high after cutting, the main cooling measure is to shade the cuttings, blocking 50-80% of sunlight. At the same time, spray the cuttings 3-5 times a day. On sunny days with higher temperatures, spray more often; on rainy days with lower temperatures and higher humidity, spray less often or not at all.
Humidity
After cutting, the relative air humidity must be maintained at 75-85%. The basic requirement for cutting rooting is that before the cuttings root, they must remain fresh and tender enough to carry out photosynthesis and produce rooting substances. However, cuttings that have not rooted cannot absorb enough water to maintain their internal water balance. Therefore, spraying must be used to reduce water evaporation from the cuttings: under shaded conditions, spray the cuttings 3-5 times a day. On sunny days, the higher the temperature, the more frequent the spraying; on rainy days, the lower the temperature, the less frequent the spraying or no spraying. But excessive spraying can easily cause the cuttings to be infected by pathogens and rot, because many kinds of pathogens exist in water.
Light
Cutting propagation cannot be separated from sunlight, because the cuttings still need to continue photosynthesis to produce nutrients and rooting substances to supply their rooting needs. However, the stronger the light, the higher the temperature inside the cuttings, the more vigorous the transpiration of the cuttings, and the more water they consume, which is not conducive to the survival of the cuttings. Therefore, after cutting, 50-80% of sunlight must be blocked. After the root system grows, gradually remove the shade net: on sunny days, remove the shade net at 4:00 every afternoon, and cover it again before 9:00 the next morning.
Layering propagation
Select robust branches. From about 15-30 cm below the top shoot, peel off a ring of bark. The width of the wound after peeling should be about 1 cm, and the depth should be just enough to remove the outer bark. Cut a piece of plastic film 10-20 cm long and 5-8 cm wide. Place some moistened garden soil on it, and wrap the girdled part as if wrapping a wound. Tie the upper and lower ends of the film tightly, with the middle bulging. Roots will form in about four to six weeks. After rooting, cut off the branch together with the root system, and it becomes a new plant.
Potting or transplanting
When potting small seedlings or moving a large plant that has been grown for several years into another pot, first place a 2-3 cm thick layer of coarse-grained substrate at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer. On top of it, spread a layer of fully decomposed organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, about 1-2 cm thick. Then cover with a thin layer of substrate, about 1-2 cm thick. Then place the plant in, so as to separate the fertilizer from the root system and avoid burning the roots. The substrate used for potting can be one of the following: vegetable garden soil: cinder = 3:1; or garden soil: medium-coarse river sand: sawdust (mushroom residue) = 4:1:2; or one of paddy soil, pond mud, or leaf mold. After potting, water thoroughly once and place it in a shaded environment for one week of care. When transplanting small seedlings, first dig the planting hole, spread a layer of organic fertilizer at the bottom of the planting hole as base fertilizer, about 4-6 cm thick, then cover with a layer of soil and place the seedling in, so as to separate the fertilizer from the root system and avoid burning the roots. After placing the seedling in, backfill the soil, cover the root system, press the soil firmly with your foot, and water thoroughly once.
Variety classification of red bird coral Varieties in the same genus
Varieties such as red bird coral, variegated red bird coral, and curly-leaf coral. White bird coral in the same genus resembles red bird coral, but its leaf midrib does not protrude, its leaves are thinner, and the green leaves are mixed with irregular white patches.
Variegated red bird coral
Variegated red bird coral is a variety of red bird coral. It is a perennial herbaceous plant with a plant height of 3-4 m. Stems and leaves are thick and fleshy, with many branches. The stems are green and regularly curved, quite peculiar, with white milky sap, and are toxic. Leaves are alternate, ovate-oblong, apex gradually acute or acute, base obtuse, entire margins, leaf surfaces often uneven and twisted, green leaves, with milky white, cream yellow, and pink markings along the leaf margins.
Distribution area of red bird coral
Red bird coral is native to the West Indies in Central America.
Medicinal or dietary value of red bird coral
The medical information and health dietary information on Huahua Network are for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. For any health problem, consult professional medical personnel, and for the treatment of any disease, please follow a doctor's advice.
Ultimate flower-protecting task: To love yourself, start from reality and strictly follow a doctor's advice. For illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope, face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and care for the flower field in your heart with your heart.
Medicinal value
[Aliases]: twisted grass, slipper flower, green bamboo mark, centipede grass, red bird palm
[Source]: The whole plant of Pedilanthus tithymaloides, a plant in the genus Pedilanthus of the Euphorbiaceae family. It can be collected throughout the year and is mostly used fresh.
[Nature, flavor, and meridian tropism]: Sour, slightly astringent, cold. Slightly toxic.
[Functions and indications]: Clear heat and detoxify, dissipate blood stasis and reduce swelling, stop bleeding and promote tissue regeneration. For external use, treat traumatic injuries, fractures, external bleeding, boils, sores, and keratitis.
[Usage and dosage]: For external use, an appropriate amount, mash fresh material and apply to the affected area.
[Excerpt]: "National Compendium of Chinese Herbal Medicine"
Uses and application value of red bird coral
The stems, branches, and leaves of red bird coral are dark green, with a graceful posture, evergreen all year round, suitable for indoor and balcony decoration. The stems of red bird coral are green and regularly curved, quite peculiar. The involucres are bright red, shaped like the crest of a small bird, beautiful and elegant. Suitable for potted decoration of desks, tables, and similar places.
Potted ornamental use
Bird-tongue coral, also known as red bird coral, is an evergreen shrub in the Euphorbiaceae family. Its stems are fleshy and green. The branches continuously change direction as they grow, and very regularly, causing the branches and trunk to form a "Z" shape. A commonly cultivated variegated variety also exists, whose green leaves are milky white with a light red blush. Its distinctive posture and the leaves composed of red, green, and white are all very characteristic, making it an excellent potted ornamental plant.
Landscape uses of red bird coral
The genus Pedilanthus, in the Euphorbiaceae family, has about 14 species distributed in tropical America. The species introduced and cultivated in China is red bird coral, used for garden ornament.
Cultural background of red bird coral Origin of the name
Red bird coral blooms red or purple flowers throughout the year, and the tree shape resembles coral, hence the name "red bird coral."
Legend
Legend says that red bird coral was originally an extremely beautiful bird, covered all over with brilliantly colored feathers and wearing an elegantly shaped crest on its head. When it soared into the sky, it shimmered with flowing color. It lived in the coldest ice and snow mountains, and its fiery red beak could sing heavenly songs, guiding lost people out of the snowy mountains. But it fell in love with a human. When the person it loved was hungry, it would use its beautiful beak to chisel through the hard ice and catch fish for him to eat. When the person it loved was cold, it would cut open its own heart to warm him. That is how it treated its love without hesitation, even when betrayed. But even after it died, its love still did not end. Its body turned into a red light, guiding the direction home for the one it loved. The crimson radiance left red fluorescence along the way, and in an instant the ice and snow field was covered with red bird coral. When the last trace of light went out, its beloved finally walked out of the snowy mountains.
Red Bird Coral Flower by Bingyun
Lifting to the sky, the dragon-bone cactus stands majestic. Jade trees form a forest of green. Hearing the sound, one searches for the twittering of birds. As if from a deep and distant place.
The endless chatter of birds plays with joyful faces. Just like the splendor of coral. Spreading wings, wanting to try flying. Utterly enchanting.
The flower language of the red bird coral
Red bird coral flower language: harmony, friendship.
Red bird coral pictures
How to grow and care for red bird coral and precautions
Chinese scientific name: Red Bird CoralBinomial name: Pedilanthus tithymaloidesKingdom: PlantaeFamily: EuphorbiaceaeGenus: PedilanthusDistribution area: West IndiesRed bird coral, an evergreen shrub. The stem is green, often growing in a zigzag curved pattern, fleshy, containing white toxic milky sap. Leaves alternate, green, ovate-lanceolate, leathery, with the midrib protruding on the underside in a keel shape. Cup-shaped inflorescences arranged in terminal cymes, with bright red involucres, blooming in summer. It blooms red or purple flowers year-round, and its tree shape resembles coral, hence the name "red bird coral."1. Aliases
Twisted grass, slipper flower, centipede grass, red bird palm2. Growth habits
There are varieties such as red bird coral, variegated red bird coral, and curly-leaf coral; the related white bird coral resembles the red bird coral, but its leaf midrib does not protrude, the leaves are thinner, and the green is mixed with irregular white patches. Native to Central America and the West Indies. It likes warmth and thrives in places with ample but not too intense sunlight and good ventilation. It can also adapt to semi-shaded conditions in environments with excessively high temperatures. It requires loose, fertile, well-drained soil for cultivation.
4. Cultivation and propagation
Before sowing, the seeds must first be selected. Whether the seeds are chosen well or not directly affects whether sowing will succeed.1. It is best to use seeds harvested in the current year. The longer the seeds are stored, the lower their germination rate.
2. Choose seeds that are plump and free of defects or deformities.
3. Choose seeds free of pests and diseases.
Disinfection
Disinfection includes two concepts: one refers to disinfecting the seeds, and the other refers to disinfecting the sowing substrate. For household seed disinfection, it is common to soak the seeds in hot water at about 60°C for a quarter of an hour, then use warm water to promote germination for 12 to 24 hours. For disinfecting the sowing substrate, the best method is to put it in a pot and heat it until hot, so that any pests and diseases are killed by the heat.Promoting germination
Soak the seeds in warm water (at a temperature similar to face-washing water) for 12 to 24 hours, until the seeds absorb water and swell. For very common seeds that germinate easily, this step can be skipped.Sowing
For tiny seeds that are difficult to pick up with hands or other tools, you can moisten one end of a toothpick with water and stick the seeds one by one onto the surface of the substrate, then cover with substrate 1 cm thick, then place the sowing flowerpot into water, with the water depth at 1/2 to 2/3 of the flowerpot's height, allowing the water to slowly soak upward (this method is called the "pot immersion method"); for larger seeds that can be picked up by hand or other tools, place the seeds directly into the substrate and sow them at a spacing of 3 x 5 cm. After sowing, cover with substrate to a thickness of 2 to 3 times the size of the seeds. After sowing, use a sprayer or a fine-holed watering can to moisten the sowing substrate, and later water again when the potting soil is slightly dry. Still be careful not to water too forcefully, so as not to wash the seeds up;Management after sowing
After sowing in late autumn, early spring, or winter, when encountering a cold wave and low temperatures, you can wrap the flowerpot in plastic film to help keep it warm and moist; after the seedlings emerge, promptly uncover the film, and let the seedlings receive sunlight before 9:30 every morning or after 3:30 in the afternoon, otherwise the seedlings will grow very weak; after most of the seeds have sprouted, appropriate thinning is needed: pull out the diseased and unhealthy seedlings so that the remaining seedlings have a certain amount of space from each other; when most of the seedlings have grown 3 or more leaves, they can be transplanted.Cuttings
Softwood cuttings are often taken in late spring and early autumn using current-year branches, or hardwood cuttings are taken in early spring using last year's branches.Cutting substrate
This refers to the nutrient soil, river sand, peat soil, and other materials used for cuttings. For home cuttings, due to limited conditions, it is difficult to obtain an ideal cutting substrate. Medium-coarse river sand can also be used, but it must be rinsed several times with clean water before use. Do not use sea sand or river sand from saline-alkali areas; they are not suitable for the growth of flowers and plants.Selection of cutting branches
When taking softwood cuttings, during the period of vigorous plant growth from late spring to early autumn, select robust current-year branches as cuttings. After cutting the branches off, choose the sturdy parts and cut them into sections 5 to 15 cm long, each section bearing more than 3 leaf nodes. When cutting the cuttings, note that the upper cut should be made flat about 1 cm above the topmost leaf node, and the lower cut should be made at an angle about 0.5 cm below the bottommost leaf node; both upper and lower cuts must be smooth (the knife must be sharp). When taking hardwood cuttings, after temperatures rise in early spring, select robust branches from the previous year as cuttings. Each cutting usually retains 3 to 4 nodes, and the cutting method is the same as for softwood cuttings.
Management after cutting
【Temperature]The optimal temperature for cutting rooting is 20°C to 30°C. Below 20°C, cuttings root with difficulty and slowly; above 30°C, the upper and lower cuts of the cuttings are prone to infection by pathogens and rot, and the higher the temperature, the greater the proportion of rot. When low temperatures are encountered after cutting, the main measure for keeping warm is to wrap the flowerpot or container used for cuttings in film; when the temperature is too high after cutting, the main cooling measure is to shade the cuttings, blocking 50 to 80% of sunlight, and at the same time spray the cuttings 3 to 5 times a day; on sunny days with higher temperatures, spray more often, while on cloudy and rainy days with lower temperatures and higher humidity, spray less often or not at all.【Humidity] After cutting, the relative humidity of the air must be maintained at 75 to 85%. The basic requirement for cutting rooting is that before the cuttings root, it must be ensured that the cuttings remain fresh and tender enough to carry out photosynthesis to produce rooting substances. However, cuttings that have not rooted cannot absorb enough water to maintain their internal water balance. Therefore, spraying must be used to reduce water evaporation from the cuttings: under shaded conditions, spray the cuttings 3 to 5 times a day; the higher the temperature on sunny days, the more frequent the spraying, while the lower the temperature on cloudy and rainy days, the less frequent the spraying or no spraying. But excessive spraying makes the cuttings prone to infection by pathogens and rot, because many kinds of pathogens exist in water.