A detailed guide to the steps of propagating blue-eyed daisy (blue marguerite) from cuttings, so you can easily master the propagation method
1. Cutting time
The blue-eyed daisy (blue marguerite) dislikes heat, so when we take cuttings of it, we must avoid the high-temperature summer season, because the weather is hot in summer and taking cuttings at this time will greatly affect the survival rate of the blue-eyed daisy. Therefore, the best season for taking blue-eyed daisy cuttings should be spring, as this favors rooting and sprouting.
2. Soil medium
The blue-eyed daisy (blue marguerite) is not very demanding about soil; it has fairly vigorous vitality. We can often see vigorously growing chrysanthemum-family plants by the roadside. So generally we just need to choose a soil mix of sand, garden soil, perlite and other mixed media. However, the most basic requirements still apply, namely that it should be loose, breathable and well-draining.
3. Watering
Once the above two conditions are met, we can plant the blue-eyed daisy cuttings into the pot. After planting, water thoroughly once, then place it in a cool, ventilated spot, to avoid direct sunlight causing problems such as yellowing chrysanthemum leaves. Later, after the blue-eyed daisy sprouts, simply water regularly to keep the potting soil moist.
4. Fertilizing
The blue-eyed daisy (blue marguerite) has a relatively longer growing period than other plants, so during its growing period we need to pinch it back twice to avoid consuming nutrients. After it is established, you can apply some base fertilizer to promote flowering. If light, moisture and all other factors are very suitable, it takes only about two months from the seedling stage to flowering.
The above is an introduction to the question of how to take cuttings of the blue-eyed daisy. You should study this method well; whether your blue-eyed daisy grows into a full pot depends entirely on it.
How to take cuttings of the blue-eyed daisy: the best time for blue-eyed daisy cuttings is in spring
Besides being grown from seed, the blue-eyed daisy (blue marguerite) can also be propagated by cuttings, so how do you take blue-eyed daisy cuttings? Below is a summary of the methods and steps for blue-eyed daisy cuttings.
How to take cuttings of the blue-eyed daisy. 1. Cutting timeThe best time for blue-eyed daisy cuttings is generally spring; spring temperatures are suitable and favor rooting and sprouting. It is not recommended that gardeners take cuttings in summer, because the high summer temperatures will greatly reduce the survival rate of blue-eyed daisy cuttings.
2. Cutting soilFor the soil used for blue-eyed daisy cuttings, you can use sand, garden soil, perlite, and mixed media of these. Mixing in sand is mainly to ensure the drainage of the potting soil, making it easier for the stems to root.
3. Stem selection and cutting methodFor the stems used for blue-eyed daisy cuttings, it is recommended to choose mature, healthy stems free of pests and diseases, with good growth. Once the stems are chosen, gardeners can simply cut a section from the mother plant.
After briefly preparing the cut stems, gardeners can directly insert the stems into the prepared potting soil and press down with both hands, mainly to make sure the stems do not lean. After planting, place the pot in a cool spot for care.
4. Care after cuttingWhen watering after planting the blue-eyed daisy cuttings, be sure to water thoroughly, then place the plant in a ventilated, cool place to avoid direct sunlight causing overly rapid evaporation and a dry environment. You can also cover the plant with plastic film or a plastic bag to maintain humidity.
Later, once the blue-eyed daisy stems have successfully grown new shoots, gardeners can move them to a warmer spot with plenty of light. After that, simply keep the potting soil moist and water the blue-eyed daisy plant regularly, but be careful that the frequency does not cause water to accumulate in the pot.
5. Supplementary nutritionThe blue-eyed daisy (blue marguerite) has a long growing period, lasting from spring into late autumn, during which it is pinched back twice. When it is established, you can appropriately apply some base fertilizer, which helps flowering even more. If there is plenty of light and suitable humidity, the blue-eyed daisy takes at most only two months from seedling to flowering.
How to take cuttings and pot on geraniums
The weather is gradually turning cooler, and it is once again a good season for taking geranium cuttings. On the Huaying forum I saw an experience post written by the gardener shekinah about taking cuttings and potting on geraniums. I am reposting it here for study and reference.As for cuttings, my approach is still somewhat different from the conventional method. First, let me answer the questions.
1. About the medium.
The media I have used include domestic peat, fine perlite and vermiculite in a ratio of 5:4:1; sawdust, the kind you get from a timber yard; and imported seed-raising peat soil with fine perlite in a ratio of 7:3. My experience is that, comparing these, there is not much difference in rooting.
2. About temperature:
My home has constant temperature and humidity; the temperature is almost constant at around 22 degrees, with little fluctuation, just two or three degrees, and the humidity is fairly constant at around 40. But the cuttings in the photo above were not taken indoors; during the day they were placed by an open south-facing windowsill, and brought back in at night. I live in Beijing, and over the past half month or so the temperature has been about 10 degrees to 18 degrees.
3. Bagged or not:
Not bagged
4. Disinfected or not:
Not disinfected
My cutting steps. My method can achieve a 100 percent survival rate for cuttings, even if the stems are imperfect or the variety is relatively hard to root: (the method described here applies at temperatures between 18-25 degrees)
First, mix the medium until moist; the degree of moisture is such that when you hold the soil in one hand, no water seeps out between your fingers. Absolutely do not let it drip. After mixing, it is best to let it sit for about half a day so it is fully moistened. My experience is that no matter what medium you use, you must use fresh soil containing no fertilizer. The "no disinfection" mentioned earlier refers to fresh soil; old soil cannot be used.
Second, the container. No matter what container you use for cuttings, the smaller the better. Do not assume a large container is easier to manage; it is not actually of much benefit for rooting. On the contrary, a small container easily alternates between wet and dry, which favors rooting. As for how to manage a small container, you must observe it a lot. Do not think that once you have planted the cuttings in a large container and put a bag over it, everything will be fine; in my experience the survival rate that way still falls short.
Third, the stems.
If you are not yet very confident, be sure to choose strong top stems, no longer than 5cm, with 2 or more nodes. For preparing the stems, remove all the leaves at the bottom node, and do not leave too much stem below the bottom node; no more than 3 mm is best. If the stems have come from a long journey and are slightly wilted, you can first soak them in water until they are firm again before preparing them. Leave at most 2 leaves, counting small leaves too. If the leaves are too large, part of the leaf must be cut off. I basically take my cuttings within about half an hour of preparing the stems, without leaving them to sit for long, because the medium used is not too wet.
If you only have bare stems, that is no problem either; it is just that rooting will take a little longer.
Fourth, after filling the cutting container with soil, use a tool to poke a hole, then insert the stem to a depth where the node is just in the soil and press down lightly. It is best not to plant too deep; just enough for the stem to stand steady. I usually insert the stem to a depth of within 1cm. Also, be sure the stems are not too crowded together; ventilation during the cutting process is also very important.
Fifth, after all the cuttings are planted, spray them with water once and place them somewhere with sun; no shading is needed, let them get as much sun as possible. A few more words on this point: when it comes to cuttings, many experts say you cannot give them sun during the cutting period, or at least not in the early stage. Through practical experience, I think this view is still worth discussing. Everyone knows sunlight helps rooting, and the reason the experts warn against sun is that the stems will lose water when exposed and this affects survival. But if you can replenish water during the cutting process and ensure the stems do not wilt from water loss, then it is very beneficial for rooting. On this specific point, those interested can ask Baidu Daniuang; keyword: softwood cuttings. That article describes open-air cuttings of woody plants in the hot summer that root in 15 days, using the method of keeping them in the open sun the whole time while misting to maintain moisture. I was inspired after reading that article.
Sixth, throughout the process keep the leaves upright; if any leaves wilt, spray water until they stand up again. The first 5 days of the cutting process are the most important; you must keep the leaves upright. To keep the leaves upright, I do not recommend using a bag to retain moisture; if you have time, spraying water is enough to make the leaves stand up. If you have to go to work and have no time to care for them, you can cover them with a bag during the day to retain moisture, but you must put them somewhere with sun and ensure they get as much sun as possible. After the 5th day, if everything is normal, you can spray fertilizer, diluted to half the strength of the liquid fertilizer used for normal mature plants; that is, if foliar fertilizer is normally used at 1000 times dilution, for cuttings mix it at 2000 times dilution and spray once. After about ten days, if the medium is too dry, spray water on the surface of the medium; it is best not to water the medium itself. I usually spray three to four times with a small spray bottle.
About ten days after planting, if the leaves have not wilted and the leaf edges have not turned yellow, then it has passed the dangerous period. Generally, rooting is certain within a month.
Seventh, for potting on, my approach is to plant in moist soil and water only after three or four days. This is especially suitable for weak seedlings and small seedlings that have been through long-distance transport.
One more thing to add: this method is suitable for softwood cuttings of succulent stems, old stems, and softwood cuttings of woody plants. What I have tested include upright geranium, ivy geranium, angel pelargonium, regal pelargonium, and soft shoots of herbaceous and woody flowers. It is not suitable for old-stem cuttings of woody plants.
Let me list the ones for which this cutting method has worked: upright geranium, ivy geranium, angel pelargonium, regal pelargonium, petunia, marguerite, small hibiscus, Nemophila, false fuchsia, blue daisy, cosmos, cornflower, brachycome, blue-eyed daisy, lavender, rosemary, Portulaca, chili pepper, ivy, viola, azalea, rose top shoots, snowflake, nasturtium, passionflower, Oxalis 'Peach Blossom' (Oxalis Peach Blossom), Teucrium, string of hearts, kalanchoe, lobelia, false heather, water spinach, Ceylon spinach... I will add more when I remember.
If you are not yet very confident about cuttings, do not start by choosing small shoots for cuttings; first choose strong stems for cuttings. Small-shoot cuttings are slightly more difficult, mainly because during the cutting process you need to observe the condition of the stems a lot and judge how to handle them. If you fail too many times, it will hurt your confidence.
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