What are the common pests of pitcher plants, and how do you deal with them?
During cultivation, pitcher plants are easily attacked by red spider mites, aphids and root mealybugs. To grow our pitcher plants well, we must be extra vigilant about pest prevention! Red spider mite treatment: dilute abamectin 2000 times or dimethoate 1000 times, add to a spray bottle, shake well and spray
During cultivation, pitcher plants are easily attacked by red spider mites, aphids and root mealybugs. To grow our pitcher plants well, we must be extra vigilant about pest prevention!
Red spider mite treatment
Dilute abamectin 2000 times or dimethoate 1000 times, add to a spray bottle, shake well and spray. When spraying, be sure to move the potted plants outdoors. If spraying indoors, never go near food or utensils.
Aphid treatment
Dilute 10% abamectin emulsifiable concentrate 3000 times and spray on the leaf surface. When spraying, you can wear a mask and gloves to protect yourself and your family.
Root mealybug treatment
Dig out the pitcher plant and soak the whole plant in diluted Huahuashen medicinal solution. After about 1 hour, rinse the entire plant with clean water, washing away the remaining pests, and place it in a shady spot to dry. Be sure to replace the pot and growing medium with new ones and carry out comprehensive pest and fungus elimination.
After reading this article, you should be able to find the reason why your own pitcher plant is looking listless! Try the solutions above and see whether they can bring your pitcher plant back to life.
Common pests and diseases of pitcher plants and their solutions
Common diseases of pitcher plants and their solutions
Causes of root rot in pitcher plants
Pitcher plants have fairly well-developed root systems and are usually potted with sphagnum moss. If the pot has poor air permeability, is rather shallow, or the plant is watered too frequently, waterlogging in the pot easily occurs and triggers root rot.
Solutions for root rot in pitcher plants
Choose a deep pot, at least 10 cm or more, and preferably with holes in the bottom; when potting with sphagnum moss, it does not need to cover everything, and some gaps can be left to increase air permeability; if root rot has already occurred, you can dig out the plant and rinse it clean under water. For roots that are not completely rotten, cut away the rotten parts, let the wounds dry slightly, then plant into a pot with fresh growing medium.
Causes of black spot disease in pitcher plants
Poor ventilation and an overly shady environment easily trigger black spot disease in pitcher plants. It shows as round spots on the leaf surface, with black mold-like growth.
Solutions for black spot disease in pitcher plants
Pay attention to ventilation and light, strengthen cultivation management, and avoid letting pitcher plants get rained on during the rainy season; cut off leaves affected by black spot disease to prevent further infection of other leaves.
Common pests of pitcher plants and their solutions
During cultivation, pitcher plants are easily attacked by red spider mites, aphids and root mealybugs. To grow our pitcher plants well, we must be extra vigilant about pest prevention!
Red spider mite treatment for pitcher plants
Dilute abamectin 2000 times or dimethoate 1000 times, add to a spray bottle, shake well and spray. When spraying, be sure to move the potted plants outdoors. If spraying indoors, never go near food or utensils.
Aphid treatment for pitcher plants
Dilute 10% abamectin emulsifiable concentrate 3000 times and spray on the leaf surface. When spraying, you can wear a mask and gloves to protect yourself and your family.
Root mealybug treatment for pitcher plants
Dig out the pitcher plant and soak the whole plant in diluted Huahuashen medicinal solution. After about 1 hour, rinse the entire plant with clean water, washing away the remaining pests, and place it in a shady spot to dry the plant. Be sure to replace the pot and growing medium with new ones and carry out comprehensive pest and fungus elimination.
[Gardening] Illustrated guide to 150 common succulents and complete cultivation guide
Currently total illustrated entries: 150[Illustrated guide to 150 common succulents][Crassulaceae] 72 entries
[Crassulaceae, Echeveria] 19 entries[Crassulaceae, Aeonium] 9 entries[Crassulaceae, Crassula] 14 entries[Crassulaceae, Sedum] 9 entries[Crassulaceae, Kalanchoe] 4 entries[Crassulaceae, Sempervivum] 3 entries[Crassulaceae, Cotyledon] 3 entries[Crassulaceae, Pachyphytum] 3 entries[Crassulaceae, Orostachys] 2 entries[Crassulaceae, Graptopetalum] 1 entry[Crassulaceae, other genera and species] 4 entries[Aizoaceae] 8 entries[Liliaceae] 11 entries
[Liliaceae, Haworthia] 8 entries[Liliaceae, other genera and species] 3 entries[Asteraceae] 3 entries[Portulacaceae] 3 entries[Other families and genera] 3 entries[Crassulaceae] 34 entries
[Crassulaceae, Echeveria] 8 entries[Crassulaceae, Sedum] 8 entries[Crassulaceae, Graptopetalum] 4 entries[Crassulaceae, Crassula] 4 entries[Crassulaceae, Pachyphytum] 3 entries[Crassulaceae, Kalanchoe] 2 entries[Crassulaceae, Aeonium] 2 entries[Crassulaceae, Dudleya] 1 entry[Crassulaceae, Orostachys] 1 entry[Crassulaceae, other undetermined genera and species] 1 entry[Liliaceae] 7 entries[Aizoaceae] 6 entries[Asteraceae] 2 entries[Portulacaceae] 1 entry[Gardening] Everyday succulent care tips and answers to common questionsRecently I have put together a great many pictures about care and some common questions, and here I am again with a treat for everyone
I have noticed that everyone keeps asking the same questions over and over, especially on Weibo. Actually, a lot of this knowledge can be found on my blog
I once saw a senior gardener give this example: in Resident Evil, at the beginning the protagonist still goes up to care about a zombie and asks what is going on
By the fifth film, the protagonist shoots anyone he sees in the head... Spreading gardening knowledge works the same way
So I think if I kept answering the same questions on Weibo every day, it would not be long before I turned into a deranged maniacTherefore I decided to organize these common questions and answer them all at once with pictures
I also hope everyone will read the text carefully. Although it may not be entirely correct, it can still serve as some reference
I also welcome everyone to repost this article, so that more beginners can take fewer detours and have fewer doubts
This content is valuable experience that Er Mu has gained from everyday care, and I hope friends who repost it will note the source(I am going on a business trip tomorrow~ This time it is a long trip, and the blog will not be updated for a week to 10 days. Everyone can interact on Weibo~）
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Before starting the illustrated explanations, let me first explain some knowledge about succulent varieties and naming
Succulents are actually not divided into "ordinary goods" and "premium goods". Some newly introduced varieties or newly bred hybrids
are relatively rare because they are newly put on the market at first, and are marked with higher prices. This is simply a commercial behavior
It has almost nothing to do with the habits of succulents or their speed of propagation. Of course, it cannot be denied that some succulents are indeed harder to propagate
Once these varieties appear, everyone falls into a misconception, thinking that imported ones are good varieties, or treating some hybrid succulents as imported varieties
For example, cross "White Peony" with "Black Prince". After success, a new variety comes out, possessing the merits of its parents and looking even more beautiful
Then sellers casually label it with a Latin name, pair it with a gorgeous Chinese name "Peony Prince", and price it at several hundred yuan each
The so-called "premium goods" then appear. The above is only an example. At present, the whole world uses Latin to name new species
After the name of a hybrid variety, the names of the parents are written immediately, so as to determine what this variety was crossed from
In fact, many Chinese names are gradually coined by sellers or enthusiasts themselves, and they are not very accurate
But I think as long as it lets everyone recognize this succulent, it is fine. As long as the Chinese names are not too exaggerated, they are acceptable
So everyone should not obsess over the names of some succulents. First grow them plump and healthy, and in the process look for their names
This is a very interesting process, a process of getting to know a new field. For example, my home also has many succulents that have been grown for 2 years and still cannot be identified by name
But they grow very plump and very beautiful~ Just looking at them feels satisfying~ Of course, being able to find their names and label them would be even more perfect
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Back to the care content: when everyone does not recognize a succulent, how can they know how to care for it?
The illustrated guide to 150 succulents that I have currently made on my blog: the care methods in it were all written according to the environmental conditions at my home (Weihai, Shandong)
We are in a temperate coastal area here, with an oceanic climate, very suitable for succulent growth
Unlike abroad, our winters here are too cold, and most succulents cannot survive the winter outdoors
China spans a very large north-south range, and the Yangtze River basin has more rainy seasons. You can make appropriate adjustments according to your local climate
I do not know whether everyone has noticed the real purpose of the illustrated guide: each succulent is labeled with its family and genus
This is very important, because succulents of different families and genera differ greatly in care
If divided by "genus", there would be too many varieties and everyone would get dizzy
But it is entirely possible to classify and care for plants according to the "family" of succulents
For example:
Crassulaceae: the succulents in this family all love sunlight very much, and most like dry, well-ventilated environments, so the amount of watering should be relatively smaller.
Liliaceae: the succulents in this family all have very well-developed root systems and absorb relatively more water, so they can be potted in somewhat deeper containers, and when watering, try to soak them thoroughly each time. Also, some do not need too much sunlight, especially the Haworthia series, which can be grown in a diffused-light environment.
Aizoaceae: this is also a succulent that loves sunlight very much, but at the same time it also needs relatively more water and easily forms clusters. However, it is especially sensitive to high temperatures in summer, so special attention must be paid to watering timing and amount; with slight carelessness it will rot.
Asteraceae: the succulents in this family are not cold-tolerant and cannot take too much cold, and most can form clusters easily and can be grown as hanging plants. They do not need much sunlight either, though sufficient sunlight will also make them very beautiful.
Written this way, it becomes very clear. Of course, the succulents of each "family" can also be further divided into "genera". Succulents of different "genera" also differ in care and habits, but the differences are minor. Everyone can slowly learn about this on their own.
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Besides caring for succulents according to their varieties, you also need to pay attention to seasonal factors. This has been introduced many times before
Spring and autumn are the growing seasons for the plants. In this season you can water heavily; as soon as the soil is dry, water thoroughly
In summer and winter, the succulents go dormant, and at this time you need to water according to the situation
Especially in summer, the idea of cutting off water is not reliable. Many succulents die of drought in summer precisely because water was cut off.
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Now let us begin the illustrated explanations~
The relatively expensive succulents on the market today are not expensive because they are hard to propagate. The Spring Miracle and Quiet Night in the pictures below are varieties that are very easy to propagate
We will not discuss the commercial issues of succulents. The following is all from the starting point of care
For Spring Miracle, everyone can look it up in the illustrated guide: Crassulaceae, Sedum
This type has an advantage: it grows very quickly, and the survival rate of leaf cuttings and stem cuttings is also very high
After getting it, the first thing is to let the succulents recover their growth state and adapt to the new environment, and then you can do all kinds of leaf cuttings and stem cuttings
Within half a year, it will become a small patch, and if grown for a year, it will basically be a full pot
[Spring Miracle][Quiet Night][Leaf cuttings]
Leaf cuttings of Quiet Night are very easy to succeed with, and the success rate is not much lower than that of "White Peony"
Just note the first key point for leaf propagation: 20-25°C is the best temperature for leaf propagation; if you are really in a hurry, it should still be above 15°C
Propagating leaves below 10°C basically means you will not see seedlings or roots for two months. Last year, I propagated leaves of the white peony succulent in November during winter
and did not see seedlings until last month, and only this month did they start growing roots, nearly 4 months! My goodness!
Second key point for leaf propagation: soil moisture. At first, this does not need to be considered until roots have grown
then you can water frequently, just a small amount each time. As soon as you notice the soil surface is dry, water immediately
Ensuring enough humidity is what allows leaf-propagated seedlings to grow healthily. While watering, they can also get a little sunOnce the temperature is reached, the success rate of leaf propagation for Echeveria 'Togen' is similar to that of the white peony succulent
[Leaf propagation of hybrid Echeveria 'Togen'][Cleaning leaves]
You have probably often encountered this situation: many small offsets grow from the base of the leaves. Normally, this does not need to be dealt with
but because most of our succulents are grown in pots rather than in the wild, the lower leaves often press against the small offsets
especially in summer. If there are too many lower leaves, it is very easy for the small offsets to be smothered at the bottom
At this point, we can pull off the leaves around the small offsets, and the removed leaves can still be used for leaf propagation
Moreover, more space allows the small offsets to grow better. After growing for a while, they become what is known as clustered growth
[Echeveria 'Silent Night'][Echeveria pulidonis][Stem cuttings]
Regarding the rooting part of stem cuttings, it is best to let the cut branches dry, and you can even face the cut wound directly toward the sun to dry it
This method of ultraviolet disinfection can make the wound heal faster, and the succulent will grow more healthily later
It has a particularly good effect on some varieties that are harder to propagate
If you do not dry it and plant directly, it is also possible, but after comparison it was found that such succulents often suffer from pests and diseases later in growth
Their health is far inferior to succulents propagated by cuttings after the wound has dried, so drying the wound is something that must be done![Cutting temperature]
Besides drying the wound, temperature is also very important for cuttings. Below 15°C, rooting is very difficult
Except for some stronger succulents, some cannot produce roots for one or even two months
Likewise, some succulents I took cuttings of in November last winter, because the temperature at home hovered around 10°C
did not produce roots until the third month, after I moved the succulents to a place with a temperature of 15-20°C
Fortunately, succulents are relatively sturdy by nature; other plants would have died long ago
Watering can be determined according to the condition of the succulent and the environment. Because newly grown roots are not many, just water a small amount
As soon as you find the soil surface completely dry, replenish water immediately. Once the succulent leaves become plump, they can receive sunlight
[Echeveria runyonii 'Topsy Turvy' variegated cutting][Wrinkled leaves]
Observing succulent leaves is very important. A lot of information can be observed from succulent leaves
The succulent cutting below is definitely short of water, but after watering, its condition still had not recovered after 2-3 days
So it can be determined that the root system has not grown well. When there are not many roots, the succulent absorbs very poorly; even if there is enough water in the soil, it cannot absorb it
At this point, you can further analyze your own soil mix. If there is no problem with the soil mix either, then just wait!
Do not pull the succulent out to check just because you have doubts. Succulents grow relatively slowly, so their recovery speed is also very slow
A poor-looking cutting like this will change after about 3 months
Of course, the temperature must be above 15°C, otherwise the recovery time will be even longer
[Ivory lotus short of water with a poor root system][Judging condition by color]
The situation below is very strange: succulents in different conditions in the same pot
Last autumn, the one on the left was still green, while the one on the right stayed a very beautiful red
Red is not a healthy color. After entering winter, the green succulent still remained plump and grew slowly
while the red one entered a dormant recovery state and became very unattractive after the color faded
However, if you observe carefully (Figure 2), you will find that there is still green in the center of the leaves, so there is no need to be nervous
Just keep waiting! After it warms up in spring, the condition will improve!
There are many reasons for this. Although they are planted in the same pot and daily care is the same
the plants' own different health conditions cause huge differences, just like a healthy child and a sick child living in the same room
[Crassula mesembryanthemoides][Etiolation - growth]
There are also many different states of etiolation, but overall, etiolation indicates that the plant is still growing normally
Compared with succulents that are not growing and have wrinkled leaves, it is much, much healthier. Etiolation should probably only count as sub-health
In the figure below, Figures 1 and 2 are obvious etiolation. The cause is excessive water
But this is not a bad phenomenon. As long as there is sufficient sunlight at home, increasing sunlight time in later care and continuing to water, the succulents will become plump and thick
Do not think this etiolation is bad and stop watering, because at this time the succulents are in a growth period
If water is cut off now, growth will slow down, and it will be more difficult to make the succulents plump and thick
Figure 1 [Echeveria 'Afterglow']Figure 2 [Fuji][Etiolation - shaping]
This kind of etiolation is the most common. Generally there are two treatment options: the blue X is to pull off leaves for leaf propagation, and the red O is to cut off for cuttings
Choosing to pull off leaves for leaf propagation can keep the succulent growing in this state, and later it will become what is called an "old stump"
The red cutting method is what everyone often does: propagate the cut-off part, dry the wound, and then it can be replanted as a new cutting
At the same time, new multiple branches will sprout from the cut location, and more will grow over time
When encountering this kind of etiolation, you can appropriately reduce the amount of watering and extend the watering interval
At the same time, increase sunlight time. If conditions allow and it is warm enough outdoors, move them outside to feel the breath of nature!
They will recover quickly
[Sedum rubrotinctum][Not etiolation]
The following two situations are not etiolation. Everyone must not misunderstand etiolation as simply growing longer and longer
Plants, well, growing longer and longer is normal. Only plants that do not grow have problems!
Basically, this can be considered as having become an old stump. If you want to shape it separately, you can dig out a single plant, pull off some of the lower leaves
and pair it with a pot you like. In this way, you can create a very perfect small potted succulent arrangement[White peony succulent][Graptopetalum paraguayense][Growth information]
In the figure below, the center leaves of Echeveria 'Black Prince' turning green is growth information, indicating that the succulent has started growing and has relatively sufficient water
So for a short time you do not need to water. Continue observing and judge what to do based on the succulents' latest condition[Freeze damage]
This situation is caused by long-term low temperature or short-term strong cooling. After being damaged, the succulent will not show anything for a short time
Later in growth, it will gradually show the freeze damage, and in severe cases even newly grown leaves will carry the same frostbite
Such succulents have reduced immunity and are very susceptible to mold diseases, so it is necessary to increase sunlight time at the same time to make the succulent healthy
At the same time, you also need to slowly stabilize the succulent's condition. A temperature of around 15°C is most suitable. It is better to let the succulent have a transition period for temperature[Mold phenomenon]
There are several main causes of this phenomenon. Among them, succulents that are planted without a layer of small stones spread on the surface are especially prone to mold
Too much watering, too low temperature, poor ventilation, water cannot evaporate in time, and the succulent reduces the amount of water it absorbs because the temperature is too low or too high
In other words, these situations are especially likely to occur in winter and summer. Figure 1 can basically be declared dead
However, you can also immediately pull off the remaining leaves and try leaf propagation. If the blackened part above the soil surface is cut off immediately, there is still hope of sending out new buds
For ones like Figures 2 and 3, the root system can be confirmed to be completely rotten, but they can still be saved
Trim the very bottom again in time, then dry it and plant it in dry soil
Figure 1Figure 2Figure 3[Handling dead leaves]
The lowest leaves of succulents often dry up, fall off, or become transparent and mushy
The former is a normal metabolic process of succulents, and there is no need to worry. After the leaves are completely dry and can be removed easily, take them off and throw them away
Dead leaves accumulated over a long time can easily contract pests and diseases, especially in summer when they easily create a closed, stuffy environment, so they must be cleaned up
Those dry leaves that are not easy to remove should be left alone. Forcibly pulling them off will hurt the succulent itself
Transparent mushiness is mostly caused by the succulent having just been bought and planted not long ago, discomfort caused by a sudden change in growing environment
There is no need to worry too much about this, nor to manage it. During later growth, the transparent leaves will slowly dry up or turn to mush
Just clean them off directly, but these should be made a key observation target. The stem of the succulent may become black due to mold infection caused by leaf mushiness[Echeveria runyonii 'Topsy Turvy' with dead leaves][Withered leaves] -- [Transparent mushy leaves] -- [Healthy leaves]The lowest leaves drying up and falling off, plus the normal phenomenon of the succulent stem growing taller, will produce an "old stump"
[Crassula mesembryanthemoides][Leaf cracking phenomenon]
Some succulents will show leaf cracking. I also cannot say exactly what the cause is
A few succulents at home indeed have this situation, but it does not affect the growth of the succulents
After the growing season arrives, it will be fine once new leaves grow. The cracked leaves will eventually dry up and fall off
So everyone does not need to worry too much. Just care for them as usualIn the figure below, new leaves have already grown above the cracked leaves
[Sedum pachyphyllum][White mold spots phenomenon]
This situation has currently only been found on succulents of the genus Crassula, especially Crassula capitella 'Campfire' and Crassula 'Red Devil'
At present, it has not yet been analyzed what exactly the cause is, but it is certainly related to watering. Too much water in the soil leads to a relatively humid environment
Crassula itself does not need much water, especially in summer, but this white mold spot seems to have little effect on the growth of the succulent
These succulents at home with white mold spots have also grown new leaves, and most of the stems are very long and have begun to become woody
Later, continued observation is still needed![Sunburn spots - disease]
I believe this is the most common phenomenon everyone sees, especially on succulents grown outdoors, where these spots very easily appear
There are many causes, and the most common one is water droplets - water left on the leaves when watering, or small droplets remaining on the leaves in the early morning.
After being exposed to sunlight on a clear day, they get scorched into scars. The principle is simple - the same principle as a magnifying glass focusing light to start a fire.
This is especially common when placed outdoors under strong ultraviolet light. Relatively speaking, succulents placed behind glass rarely have this problem.
Because glass blocks most of the ultraviolet light, the UV that succulents behind glass receive is very mild.
However, it has also been found that after improving the sunlight environment later on, the newly grown leaves sometimes still have such scars.
At present it is still uncertain what the cause is. After exchanging ideas with fellow plant lovers, it feels like a kind of disease, similar to freckles in humans~
None of these completely affect the growth of the succulents. As shown below with the Echeveria 'Furong Xue Lian' (Echeveria 'Frosty Morn'), once new leaves grow out it becomes very beautiful.
The oldest leaves at the very bottom will also gradually dry up and fall off, so there is no need to worry too much.
[Echeveria 'Tolimanensis' (Dongyun)][Echeveria 'Takasago No Okina'][Echeveria 'Frosty Morn' (Furong Xue Lian)][Echeveria 'Frosty Morn' reborn]
The scar-covered old leaves form a strong contrast with the newly grown leaves, very striking~ It has the feel of a lotus emerging from water~[Flowering, flower buds]
Many succulent plants are themselves shaped like flowers in many forms, so many fellow plant lovers have always mistakenly believed that succulents do not bloom.
In fact, succulents are flowering plants and basically all of them will bloom; it is just that due to differences in variety and habits, there is some variation in flowering time.
Some bloom several times a year, some only bloom every spring, and some only bloom once every ten years.
Fellow plant lovers often mistake flower buds for new branches growing from the succulent. Both Figure 1 and Figure 2 below are flower buds that have grown out.
These buds will gradually lengthen, and finally form a flower stalk that shoots out, as shown in Figure 3, the flower stalk of Echeveria 'Moon Goddess'.
The flowering time of succulents is very long, and the process of buds forming a flower stalk is also very long, taking an average of 2-3 months.
This process consumes a lot of nutrients. Some succulents even bloom only once in their lifetime, and then die.
Flowers of the Echeveria type are actually quite beautiful, and the phenomenon of nutrient consumption is not too obvious.
But if you do not like looking at the flowers, you can just cut them off directly~
During growth, the flower stalk will knock off some of the waxy coating and white powder on the leaves, making the succulent look very unattractive, as shown in Figure 4.
Figure 1 [Echeveria 'Red Glow' (Honghui Yan)]Figure 2 [Graptopetalum 'Kimono' (Jinsi Huang)]Figure 3 [Echeveria 'Moon Goddess']Figure 4 [Echeveria 'Chihuahuaensis' (Jiwa Lian)][The relationship between pot size and succulents]
I have always been observing what kind of pot is most suitable for planting succulents, and I found a very interesting phenomenon: whatever size succulent you like, match it with that size of pot.
If you like plump, large succulents, plant them directly into a flower bed, or give them a deeper and larger pot, and the succulents will grow very plump and large.
If you like mini and cute ones, then place them in small, cute mini pots, and the succulents will stay moderately mini in shape.
Both of these points are related to water and soil, with the former being more important. Sufficient moisture inside the pot can ensure continuous growth of the succulent.
When the moisture disappears, the succulent will, depending on the drought situation, eventually begin to consume its own water (that is, the common situation where the bottommost leaves dry up and fall off).
As for the latter, with regard to soil, adding more granules makes drainage stronger and moisture evaporates faster, so it is not quite suitable for succulent growth.
But for some old-stem succulents, the old stems themselves have reduced absorption function, so using soil mixed with granules actually works better.
Mini pots basically cannot retain moisture. On a clear day, the water dries up the same day it is watered.
In this way, the succulent is in a state of stopped growth or consuming its own leaf moisture most of the time, so it grows very slowly and very small~
But it is still no less cute~ A water-deficient situation plus sufficient sunlight will make the succulents' colors more vivid.
[Graptoveria 'Titubans' (White Peony)][Pachyphytum 'Blue Haze' (Qingxing Meiren)][Echeveria 'Black Prince'][Color change in succulent leaves]
I have written about this before~ so I will not ramble on too much. It is on the blog homepage, and those interested can go find it themselves.
The main 2 points for succulents changing color: temperature difference and sunlight.
The ones below are being used for experiments. They were just moved outdoors for 2 days, and they were already quite red originally inside the glass room.
Right now it is about 2-8 degrees outdoors. I do not know how many days it will take for them to turn fully red. These past few days there has also been smog, with no sunlight, so I feel it will take even longer.
Color change is not necessarily a good phenomenon; it is just external factors stimulating the succulent, so do not misunderstand it.
Therefore, when choosing succulents to move outdoors to try low-temperature color change, it is best to choose ones that are originally cold-resistant, or whose plants are relatively robust.
In the Crassulaceae family, Sedum, Sempervivum, and Echeveria are all good cold-resistant mainstays. Everyone can give them a try.[Echeveria 'Flower Moon Night' (Huayue Ye)][Crassula 'Red Infant' (Hongzhi Er)][Succulent arrangements]
Regarding combined pot arrangements, many fellow plant lovers think that being crowded together is not good for growth, or that after planting they will lose their shape before long.
That is indeed the case, but it can be solved by dividing varieties, mixing together succulents with similar habits but different varieties and different colors.
Not only can this make up for these shortcomings, it will also be very beautiful, and they may even grow better when crowded~
However, when selecting varieties, everyone needs to have a certain understanding of the habits of all succulents, and this requires long-term observation to discover.[Color change also happens when sunbathing through glass]
Many fellow plant lovers feel that glass blocks far too much ultraviolet light, and in addition the indoor environment is at a relatively constant temperature most of the time.
So the succulents not only fail to develop beautiful colors, but also often become leggy and ugly.
Actually these understandings are correct; it is just that when growing succulents indoors, certain conditions are weakened, which causes this effect.
If daily sunlight reaches more than 4-5 hours, or if you often open the windows for ventilation to maintain a temperature difference effect.
The succulents will still change color and will not become leggy~ Below are succulents that were grown indoors for half a year under a relatively constant temperature.
Indoor conditions: windows completely sealed, no ventilation, 4-5 hours of sunlight per day, winter temperature 22-26, and on clear days the windowsill even reaches 30 degrees.
Everyone can refer to the above situation and make some adjustments for their own succulents.
[Cotyledon tomentosa (Bear's Paw)][Kalanchoe tomentosa (Panda Plant)][Watering and Bear's Paw]
As for watering, it is still the same saying: definitely do not water on a fixed schedule. It is best to water according to weather conditions and the dryness and moisture of the soil.
Finally, let me talk separately about Bear's Paw. This is one of my favorite succulents. I have grown it for 3 years and have never pruned it.
After communicating with this little bear over these years, I found that it really likes sunlight and very much likes a dry environment with sufficient sunlight.
But this does not mean watering less. Every time I water, I wait until the soil is completely dry and then water thoroughly in one go.
I have given it the spot at home with the longest sunlight hours, especially in winter, when I put it in a place with a slightly higher temperature.
In summer, try not to put it outdoors. It is best to choose a place with fewer sunlight hours or provide some shade.
In summer, Bear's Paw is most afraid of rain. First, because rainwater brings in a lot of dust that makes the little bear's fuzz very dirty; second, because it easily gets infected from stuffy, damp conditions.
That is basically it! If I encounter new problems in the future, I will organize them properly again. Fellow learners, study well and grow plump every day.[Growing experience] How to make succulents more beautiful
These past two days I have crazily bought a lot of books, wanting to enrich my gardening knowledge and creativity.
What is rather disappointing is that there is too little content in the books, far from enough to read. However, Tasha Tudor's book feels especially warm and familiar, and the text is well worth savoring repeatedly.?
Let me continue handing in my homework~~ I have seen many friends worrying about why their succulents do not look good and how to grow them more beautifully.
Some friends' first reaction is definitely: PS or a good camera That indeed counts as one factor, but I think it can only account for 5% of the whole ratio.
Overall, how to make succulents more beautiful, based on my growing experience, comes down to three major factors: 1. sunlight, 2. watering, 3. pairing and landscaping.
Let's go one by one~~~
1. Sunlight
This is surely the one everyone is most familiar with. One of the biggest secrets to growing succulents is "sunlight."
Most succulents will turn red after being exposed to full sun, or their colors will become more vivid. Actually there is also an additional condition - [temperature difference].
Among succulents, the one that best shows color change should be the Crassulaceae~ This is also one of the main reasons why sedum-type succulents captivate so many people.
PS: Sufficient sunlight plus a large temperature difference will make succulents even redder and more vivid (my home cannot do that for now, so I will just post two random photos).2. Watering
Watering is really, really important! Very important! The most common thing is misting. Small water droplets fall onto the succulent, and then it happens to meet the strong midday sun,
and boom~~ direct scorching. At this time the water droplet plays the role of a magnifying glass. Think of the example of a magnifying glass focusing sunlight to start a fire~
So this is one reason why you must absolutely not mist.
Reason two not to mist: most succulents, mainly Echeveria, have white powder on their leaves, and this powder is produced only once.
If you spray water or water directly onto the leaves, the white powder will be washed away, and the white powder on the leaves will not regenerate.
At this point, if you want the succulent to become more beautiful, you can only wait for new leaves. A long process...
Also, be careful about touching. Those who often like to hold succulents in their hands and fiddle with them should be careful. If you want them to be more beautiful, do not touch the leaves.
PS: When watering, try to pour along the edge of the pot. If you really cannot do that, then do not pour water directly into the center of the succulent.Below are some examples of white powder being rubbed off.At spot 1, the white powder can clearly be seen~ Spot 2 is a mark caused by watering.
Besides Echeveria, many other sedum plants also have white powder.
Among the varieties on my balcony, the ones with white powder are roughly: Echeveria, Echeveria 'Flower Moon Night' (Huayue Ye), Sedum 'Yachiyo', Graptopetalum paraguayense, Echeveria 'Frosty Dawn' (Shuangzhi Chao), Echeveria 'Yudie', Graptoveria 'Titubans' (White Peony), Pachyphytum 'Star Beauty' (Xing Meiren), Pachyphytum 'Peach Beauty' (Tao Meiren), and so on. There are too many varieties, so everyone can pay attention and observe them themselves. No matter the variety, as long as you pay attention to your watering method, it is fine.There are also some succulents that can still remain beautiful after improper watering~ generally those whose main tones are white and blue-green.3. Pairing and landscaping
This is a bit beyond my ability. I feel it is related to one's personal artistic sense~ The most important thing is still the issue of "color tone."
I believe friends who like multicolored painting can quickly put together beautiful succulent arrangements.
When combining succulents, note that you need to reserve enough space to give them more room to grow. A tightly packed combination can only maintain its effect for a very short time.
Also pay attention to the growth forms of the succulents: there are trailing types, tree-like types, coral-like types, and so on. The habits of the succulents also need attention.
Combining succulents with different habits together causes a lot of inconvenience in watering and sunlight, so these three points must definitely be taken into consideration when combining them.
I myself am still a beginner and do not have much experience in this area.
I will figure it out slowly~ There is still a lot to learn~ I will often update things in this area in the future~
PS: Pairing and landscaping requires a rich personal understanding of "color," such as black and white, red and green, and so on. A succulent combination is also a combination of colors.
Its growth space, habits, and form are also three very important points, affecting how long the arrangement can be maintained. Later care and trimming are also necessary.I have written a whole jumble~ Finally, let me post one more succulent that I have a little question about~ The Echeveria 'Red Glow' at home suddenly became very plump~
It also turned into a double head. When I lifted the leaves and looked... there was a ring of little babies underneath.Can someone tell me how to handle this? This way I cannot even behead it.
If I leave it alone, I am worried the little babies underneath will not develop well... Why do all the succulents in my home sprout heads like this~~~~~~~~~I went early in the morning to look at the new house. It has already been topped out, and I was told it will only be handed over in May next year. I have prepared a bunch of climbing roses for the yard in advance~
In the afternoon I went to a nearby nursery to look at pots. This kind of clay pot is indeed cheap~ 2 yuan, 3 yuan, 5 yuan, choose whatever you like...
I picked the two largest ones, planning to put them on the terrace for now. When I move to the new house next year, I will take them over together.The climbing roses bloomed directly~ Awesome!I've had the idea of making a succulent plant illustrated guide for a long time. Before, I just simply saved the pictures and changed the file names to the names of the succulents.
Actually, for me, growing succulents is just a hobby. I don't want to become a succulent botanist myself, so I've always been lazily enjoying it in my own way.
Over time, I found that I didn't recognize many varieties, and I couldn't even tell which family or genus they belonged to.
From a hobbyist's perspective, I don't really recommend everyone memorize which family or genus things belong to, because the fun lies in growing and gardening.
However, I noticed that whether in QQ groups or on Weibo, many friends don't understand the names and habits of succulents, and there are quite a lot of repeated questions.
So I wanted to put together a succulent illustrated guide, to make it easier for everyone to recognize and understand them, and also convenient for me to look up information.
The content of the guide is fairly simple. After posting it on Weibo, the response was strong, and many friends offered various opinions.
I summed it up: if I put all the information into the guide, then I really would have become a botanist.
And collecting all this material takes a very long time - you have to look things up, make comparisons, and also combine it with your own growing experience.
So I gave up on most of the content directly, like Latin names and such. Ordinary hobbyists don't need to know that much, right!
Simply put, this guide I put together mainly targets ordinary succulent hobbyists:
1. It's mainly for everyone's beginner-level recognition. Watering and sunlight care methods are for reference only.
2. Simple, easy to understand and intuitive, convenient to save and look up (I recommend everyone save the pictures and change the file names to the names of the succulents).
3. All the pictures in the guide were taken by me, and they are all succulents I am currently growing.
4. The content mainly marks down my usual care experience and some characteristics of the succulents. (Blogger's location: Weihai, Shandong)
5. Because I'm not a professional either, mistakes are unavoidable. If you find any, you can @ me on Weibo, or send a private message, and I will check and correct it promptly.
6. I reserve the final right of interpretation for the pictures! This guide is not for commercial use. As for those who casually steal the pictures for use, I will definitely report them to the end!
[Succulent Plant FAQ]
Because the picture content is limited, a lot of repeated information wasn't added. Here's a unified explanation (can't finish organizing it all at once, will keep updating):
① When are the growing season and dormant season for succulents?
Answer: Spring and autumn are the growing seasons for succulents, while summer and winter are the dormant seasons. But due to regional and climatic conditions, in some areas they can also grow in summer and winter. For example: running air conditioning in summer, or having heating in northern regions in winter, can both allow succulents to continue growing.
② What exactly does "full sun" mean?
Answer: "Full sun" refers to the duration of sunlight, meaning some succulents can receive sunlight all day. It doesn't mean placing them completely under the sun to bathe. In summer, you still need to take some sun protection measures (shade net).
③ Can the guide mark both the "scientific name" and the "alias"?
Answer: Because I'm not a professional plant researcher either, and I'm also skeptical about some of the naming found online (many Chinese names are made up by vendors themselves), I can't distinguish the truly correct names. And Latin names are too cumbersome in content, so the names in the guide are all commonly used and commonly seen ones. If there are mistakes, I will check and correct them promptly.
④ What is the suitable growing temperature for succulents? At what temperatures in summer and winter do they go dormant?
Answer: For succulents, the most suitable growing temperature is 10°C-30°C. Of course, the temperature can't be a constant value. When summer exceeds 35°C, some succulents will enter dormancy, especially the "winter-growing type" (grows in winter). When the temperature reaches 40°C, almost all succulents will enter dormancy, even the "summer-growing type" (grows in summer) will enter dormancy (no longer absorbing water). In winter, when it's below 5°C, some succulents will enter dormancy. 0°C is the freezing point, and water will slowly freeze. The leaves and stems of succulents are mostly water inside, so when it's below 0°C, the water inside the succulents will also slowly freeze, and the main plant body will definitely stop growing. At this point, you must stop watering.
⑤ Can the guide include the suitable growing medium for succulents?
Answer: This has already been written in the pinned post on the homepage. From the mediums I've used so far, soft peat soil + granules is the most suitable. The ingredients of the "liang tu" (quality soil) I commonly use are also: peat soil + rice husk + perlite + vermiculite, etc. To save trouble, I just use liang tu directly for planting each time. And almost all the succulents at home use the same uniform medium.
⑥ Does stopping water in summer mean not watering at all? How long does this period roughly last?
Answer: The commonly mentioned summer water-stopping is actually only for some succulents. Plants still need water after all, so during high summer temperatures, extend the watering interval to once a month, with a small amount being best. Let the soil retain at least a tiny bit of moisture. Succulents growing in the wild also rely on the moisture in the ground soil to get through summer, so they can survive for several months or even half a year without rainwater. But now that succulents are transplanted into homes, terracotta and similar pots can easily dry out completely. In summer, sometimes I still keep watering once a week or even once every 5 days. The duration mainly depends on the weather and temperature conditions. When autumn arrives and the temperature starts to slowly drop, you can increase the watering amount.
⑦ Can the guide indicate "winter-growing type" (grows in winter) or "summer-growing type" (grows in summer)?
Answer: Considering that the available information is limited, many succulents are hard to determine which type they belong to. Only after growing and observing them personally can you draw a conclusion, so I didn't add it directly to the guide. However, for those I can confirm from existing information, I will definitely add them. There isn't much difference between "winter-growing type" and "summer-growing type" during cultivation. The growing seasons are still spring and autumn, and they still go dormant in summer and winter. So for ordinary hobbyists, just knowing how to care for them is enough ~ For details, please refer to questions ④ and ⑥.
⑧ Looking at the guide, all the succulents have different watering and sunlight needs. Can they be planted together in a mix? How do you care for those mixed combinations?
Answer: You can mix them! And the combined effect is even more beautiful ~ Succulents of different colors paired together look even prettier. For care, normal sunlight and watering are fine. I think mixed-planted succulents grow better and faster, maybe because growing together gives a sense of competition! But one thing to pay special attention to: for mixed succulent combinations, try to choose plants of the same family and genus, because their habits are roughly the same, making them easier to manage. For example: mixing Echeveria types, mixing Sedum types, or you can also mix Sedum with Echeveria, because they all belong to the Crassulaceae family. However, mixing Aizoaceae and Crassulaceae together isn't very good, because Aizoaceae is more sensitive to water. After a while you'll find you have to dig them out and rearrange them.
⑨ What is "fasciation"?
Answer: Fasciation refers to a common abnormal variation phenomenon in ornamental plants.
Fasciation variation refers to certain varieties (cultivars) of succulents receiving unknown external stimuli, causing their apical growing point to abnormally divide and double, forming many small growing points. These growing points develop laterally and connect into a line, eventually growing into a flat fan-shaped or cockscomb-shaped band. Due to their strange appearance, fasciated plants have higher ornamental value, and because they are rare, they are more precious than the original species (cultivar).
Do you also often grow some succulents? Below, the editor shares succulent growing methods with everyone.Repotting Succulents
1
Newspaper, tweezers, small shovel, mixed soil, akadama soil, container, fertilizer. After getting the succulent, first trim the roots and let them air dry for two days, so the root wounds can heal.2
Prepare a container that is a bit larger than the original pot. First think about where you want to plant the plant in the pot. Add large-grain akadama soil, roughly to about one-third the height of the pot, so drainage is smoother!
3
Before adding fertilizer, first put in a layer of potting soil. The amount of soil just needs to cover the akadama soil below, then add a small pinch of fertilizer.
4
Adjust the height of the plant. Place the plant into the pot while adjusting the height. After deciding on the height, hold the plant with one hand and sprinkle potting soil around it with the other. Don't fill the soil too full; leave room for watering.
5
Compact the soil. After placing the plant, tap the pot to make the soil firmer with no gaps. If you feel there isn't enough soil, add some more. Finally, cover with volcanic rock.
Repotting tips: When dividing offsets, separate the plants carefully - don't damage the roots! If the baby plants are still connected to the roots, be even more careful not to break the roots. If the bottom of the pot is relatively large, it's best to line it with newspaper and mesh. After laying newspaper, loose soil won't easily fall out, helping keep the room clean. And by the time the roots have grown well, the newspaper will have mostly decomposed - very practical! Use your hands to remove the soil stuck to the roots. This soil is old soil with no nutrients, so throw it away.
END
Succulent Stem Cuttings
1
Choose the plant you want to use for stem cuttings. A leggy succulent is already at mother-plant level, so choosing such a plant for stem cuttings is most suitable.
2
Cut a section from the top one-third of the plant with scissors. Don't worry, your succulent will grow very well.
3
Then just care for the remaining part as usual, and after some time they will heal themselves; then use your hands to remove the excess leaves from the cut plant section, exposing a section of stem.
4
Then carefully plant the cutting into a pot filled with soil. Or place the plant in a small bottle filled with water - be careful not to let the plant touch the water surface, leave some space, so the plant can root well for future replanting.
Stem cutting tips: It's best to wait until the wound turns black or shrinks before planting the cut plant. When planting, it's best not to touch it with your hands - use tweezers instead, to keep the plant in good condition.
END
Creating a Bonsai Arrangement
1
First choose the colors, types, and heights of the succulents, then decide on purchasing the young plants. Roughly decide on the composition, and pay attention to the balance and beauty of the plants.
2
Then prepare a small pot, first spread a layer of soil, and be sure to wet it with water.
3
Spread a layer of volcanic rock on top. Volcanic rock is a great companion for succulent growth, providing quite a few trace elements. Wet it as well.
4
Start transplanting the young plants from the edge of the pot. Start transplanting and pushing soil at one edge, then slowly spread toward the other side. (Use the soil in the pot to push toward the young plants - this way, when finished, you won't need to add too much more soil and dirty the young plants.)
5
Try not to touch the leaves of the young plants with your hands, so using tweezers for this is most suitable.
Topsy Turvy EcheveriaTopsy Turvy Echeveria (Echeveria runyonii cv 'Topsy Turvy') also known as Teye Yudie, Crassulaceae family, Echeveria genus.
Topsy Turvy Echeveria is a perennial evergreen succulent, with its original species native to Mexico. The first variant was produced in California. The plant grows in clusters and freely produces branches. The leaves are arranged in a rosette. Topsy Turvy Echeveria is covered with a thick layer of white powder. The leaf base is a twisted spoon shape, with both edges curving outward, causing the middle part to arch up, while the leaf tip curves inward toward the growing point. There is a distinct groove in the center of the leaf back. The leaf color is blue-green.
The plant diameter can reach 20-30 cm, and the height can reach 15-30 cm. This variety grows quickly. It is a very attractive succulent whether potted or planted in the garden, and it is very easy to cultivate.
Topsy Turvy Echeveria prefers a warm, dry, and ventilated environment. It likes light, is drought-tolerant, cold-tolerant, and shade-tolerant, but is not tolerant of harsh sun exposure. It has no obvious dormant period.
1) Flowering: In autumn, it grows arched raceme inflorescences and blooms bright red-orange flowers. The flower color is very vivid.
2) Cultivation points: The suitable growing temperature is 15-25°C, and not below 5°C in winter. For soil mix, generally use peat + vermiculite + perlite in equal parts, and add an appropriate amount of bone meal. You can also use a mix of 3 parts leaf mold, 3 parts river sand, 1 part garden soil, and 1 part furnace slag; during the growing season, water thoroughly after the soil dries out. When the air is dry, you can sprinkle water around the plant. During the growing season, fertilize generally about once every 20 days.
3) Propagation methods: including cuttings and division. Cuttings include leaf cuttings and stem cuttings. For leaf cuttings, lay a complete mature leaf flat on moist sandy soil, with the leaf face up and the leaf back down. No need to cover with soil. Place in a cool place. After about 10 days, small leaf clusters and new roots will grow from the leaf base. Bury the root system into the soil, then let it get more sun, water and fertilize appropriately, and gradually it will grow into a sturdy new plant. For stem cuttings, you can use single leaves, tiller branches, or top branches. The length of the cut stem is not limited, but the cut surface must dry, then remove the lower leaves and insert into a sand bed. After insertion, roots generally form in about 20 days. The cutting medium must not be too wet, otherwise the cut surface is prone to yellowing and rotting. When the roots are 2-3 cm long, pot them up. August to October is better, with fast rooting and a high survival rate. Leaf cuttings can also be used. Division is best done in spring.
4) Care: Usually requires full sun or slight shade, or very strong indoor lighting. The soil needs to be very permeable. In greenhouses, equal proportions of clay and sand are used, with small gravel added to ensure drainage. Watering should follow "dry then wet". This is very important for plant health, because overwatering can cause the plant to die. During the growing season, fertilize usually once, using a balanced fertilizer, diluted to 1/2 the recommended dose according to instructions. During the winter months, reduce water, only ensuring the leaves don't wrinkle.
Solving the trouble of leggy succulents ~After planting according to your preferences, try not to move the already transplanted young plants. When finally finishing, use a small shovel to add some akadama or decorative stones.
Purple Pearl Echeveria
Lesson Notes (0)
Comments Questions Write a NoteSempervivum 'Ruby Heart' Sempervivum belongs to the genus Sempervivum L.
This genus's scientific name means semper (forever) and vivium (growing). English name: HOUSELEEK. Japanese name: "spider nest bandai grass". Origin: south-central Europe, North Africa, the Caucasus, and Asia Minor. Its distribution areas include North America, Canada, China, Japan, Myanmar, India, and other regions with warm climate hilly areas.
1) Variety history: In the 1930s, 23 varieties of this genus were organized. Japan began popularizing this genus from the mid-Meiji period, and it was introduced to our country in recent years. Because this genus is extremely easy to hybridize under natural and artificial conditions, the names and quantities are very chaotic. For example, S. tectorum (Ling Ying) has 70 different scientific names and cultivation names. The varieties recorded for this genus reach 200. Conservatively speaking, there are now 45 species (including early natural hybrid varieties).
2) Morphological characteristics: Succulent herbaceous plant, thick leaves, often in rosette form, leaves often with filamentous hairs or fine hairs; flowers in cymose panicles, in colors like red, white, yellow, etc. Similar and most closely related to the genus Aeonium.
3) Cultivation and propagation: This genus is very cold-tolerant and sensitive to high temperatures. During cultivation, pay attention to air circulation; it easily rots in summer. The lower layer of soil should be humus soil, and the upper layer should be sandy soil, slightly acidic. Propagation uses offsets that sprout from stolons; leaf cuttings are also very easy, and hybridizing very easily produces seeds.
The plant is in a dormant state during high summer temperatures and cold winter temperatures. The main growing seasons are the cooler spring and autumn. During the growing season, it requires plenty of sunlight. If there is insufficient light, the plant shape will become loose and not compact, affecting its ornamental value. Plants grown in sufficient light have thick, plump leaves, a compact shape, and bright leaf color.
4) Watering principle: "Don't water until dry; water thoroughly when you do." Avoid long-term water accumulation to prevent root rot, but don't let it get too dry either, otherwise although the plant won't die, it will grow slowly, have dull leaf color, and lack vitality. Fertilize about once every 20 days with decomposed dilute liquid fertilizer or a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer. In winter, if the nighttime temperature is not below 5°C and the daytime temperature is above 15°C, the plant can continue growing, and you can water normally and fertilize appropriately; if you control watering to make the plant go dormant, it can also tolerate low temperatures of 0°C.
Pests and diseases mainly include leaf-eating pests and rot mold, etc.
Purple Pearl Lesson Notes (1)
Comments Questions Write a NotePurple Pearl (Echeveria cv. Peale von Nurnberg) Crassulaceae family, Echeveria genus
The Crassulaceae Echeveria genus prefers warm, dry, and ventilated environments. It likes light, is drought-tolerant, cold-tolerant, shade-tolerant, and tolerant of stuffy indoor environments. It has extremely strong adaptability, but is not tolerant of harsh sun exposure. It has no obvious dormant period. Its leaves are a magnificent pink-purple, like spoons. The purple color is not obvious in summer and deepens in autumn. When placed in sunlight, it will grow into a rose-petal shape.
1) Flowering: From late summer to early autumn, flower stems grow from the leaves and bloom slightly purple-orange flowers.
2) Cultivation points: Care for it in a ventilated environment, otherwise it easily gets sick. Its suitable growing temperature is 15-25°C, and not below 5°C in winter; during the growing season, water thoroughly after the soil dries out. When the air is dry, you can sprinkle water around the plant, but the leaf surface, especially the center of the leaf rosette, should not accumulate water, otherwise it will cause heart rot; during the growing season, fertilize generally about once every 20 days. The growing seasons are spring and autumn. Water only after the potting soil has completely dried out. In summer, shade is needed and watering should be reduced. In winter, place it indoors in a sunny spot for care.
3) Propagation methods: mainly cuttings and division. Cuttings include leaf cuttings and stem cuttings. For leaf cuttings, lay a complete mature leaf flat on moist sandy soil, with the leaf face up and the leaf back down. No need to cover with soil. Place in a cool place. After about 10 days, small leaf clusters and new roots will grow from the leaf base. Bury the root system into the soil, then let it get more sun, water and fertilize appropriately, and gradually it will grow into a sturdy new plant. For stem cuttings, you can use single leaves, tiller branches, or top branches. The length of the cut stem is not limited, but the cut surface must dry, then remove the lower leaves and insert into a sand bed. After insertion, roots generally form in about 20 days. The cutting medium must not be too wet, otherwise the cut surface is prone to yellowing and rotting. When the roots are 2-3 cm long, pot them up. August to October is better, with fast rooting and a high survival rate. Leaf cuttings can also be used. Division is best done in spring.
I've had the idea of making a succulent plant illustrated guide for a long time. Before, I just simply saved the pictures and changed the file names to the names of the succulents.
Actually, for me, growing succulents is just a hobby. I don't want to become a succulent botanist myself, so I've always been lazily enjoying it in my own way.
Over time, I found that I didn't recognize many varieties, and I couldn't even tell which family or genus they belonged to.
From a hobbyist's perspective, I don't really recommend everyone memorize which family or genus things belong to, because the fun lies in growing and gardening.
However, I noticed that whether in QQ groups or on Weibo, many friends don't understand the names and habits of succulents, and there are quite a lot of repeated questions.
So I wanted to put together a succulent illustrated guide, to make it easier for everyone to recognize and understand them, and also convenient for me to look up information.
The content of the guide is fairly simple. After posting it on Weibo, the response was strong, and many friends offered various opinions.
I summed it up: if I put all the information into the guide, then I really would have become a botanist.
And collecting all this material takes a very long time - you have to look things up, make comparisons, and also combine it with your own growing experience.
So I gave up on most of the content directly, like Latin names and such. Ordinary hobbyists don't need to know that much, right!
Simply put, this guide I put together mainly targets ordinary succulent hobbyists:
1. It's mainly for everyone's beginner-level recognition. Watering and sunlight care methods are for reference only.
2. Simple, easy to understand and intuitive, convenient to save and look up (I recommend everyone save the pictures and change the file names to the names of the succulents).
3. All the pictures in the guide were taken by me, and they are all succulents I am currently growing.
4. The content mainly marks down my usual care experience and some characteristics of the succulents. (Blogger's location: Weihai, Shandong)
5. Because I'm not a professional either, mistakes are unavoidable. If you find any, you can @ me on Weibo, or send a private message, and I will check and correct it promptly.
6. I reserve the final right of interpretation for the pictures! This guide is not for commercial use. As for those who casually steal the pictures for use, I will definitely report them to the end!
[Succulent Plant FAQ]
Because the picture content is limited, a lot of repeated information wasn't added. Here's a unified explanation (can't finish organizing it all at once, will keep updating):
① When are the growing season and dormant season for succulents?
Answer: Spring and autumn are the growing seasons for succulents, while summer and winter are the dormant seasons. But due to regional and climatic conditions, in some areas they can also grow in summer and winter. For example: running air conditioning in summer, or having heating in northern regions in winter, can both allow succulents to continue growing.
② What exactly does "full sun" mean?
Answer: "Full sun" refers to the duration of sunlight, meaning some succulents can receive sunlight all day. It doesn't mean placing them completely under the sun to bathe. In summer, you still need to take some sun protection measures (shade net).
③ Can the guide mark both the "scientific name" and the "alias"?
Answer: Because I'm not a professional plant researcher either, and I'm also skeptical about some of the naming found online (many Chinese names are made up by vendors themselves), I can't distinguish the truly correct names. And Latin names are too cumbersome in content, so the names in the guide are all commonly used and commonly seen ones. If there are mistakes, I will check and correct them promptly.
④ What is the suitable growing temperature for succulents? At what temperatures in summer and winter do they go dormant?
Answer: For succulents, the most suitable growing temperature is 10°C-30°C. Of course, the temperature can't be a constant value. When summer exceeds 35°C, some succulents will enter dormancy, especially the "winter-growing type" (grows in winter). When the temperature reaches 40°C, almost all succulents will enter dormancy, even the "summer-growing type" (grows in summer) will enter dormancy (no longer absorbing water). In winter, when it's below 5°C, some succulents will enter dormancy. 0°C is the freezing point, and water will slowly freeze. The leaves and stems of succulents are mostly water inside, so when it's below 0°C, the water inside the succulents will also slowly freeze, and the main plant body will definitely stop growing. At this point, you must stop watering.
⑤ Can the guide include the suitable growing medium for succulents?
Answer: This has already been written in the pinned post on the homepage. From the mediums I've used so far, soft peat soil + granules is the most suitable. The ingredients of the "liang tu" (quality soil) I commonly use are also: peat soil + rice husk + perlite + vermiculite, etc. To save trouble, I just use liang tu directly for planting each time. And almost all the succulents at home use the same uniform medium.
⑥ Does stopping water in summer mean not watering at all? How long does this period roughly last?
Answer: The commonly mentioned summer water-stopping is actually only for some succulents. Plants still need water after all, so during high summer temperatures, extend the watering interval to once a month, with a small amount being best. Let the soil retain at least a tiny bit of moisture. Succulents growing in the wild also rely on the moisture in the ground soil to get through summer, so they can survive for several months or even half a year without rainwater. But now that succulents are transplanted into homes, terracotta and similar pots can easily dry out completely. In summer, sometimes I still keep watering once a week or even once every 5 days. The duration mainly depends on the weather and temperature conditions. When autumn arrives and the temperature starts to slowly drop, you can increase the watering amount.
⑦ Can the guide indicate "winter-growing type" (grows in winter) or "summer-growing type" (grows in summer)?
Answer: Considering that the available information is limited, many succulents are hard to determine which type they belong to. Only after growing and observing them personally can you draw a conclusion, so I didn't add it directly to the guide. However, for those I can confirm from existing information, I will definitely add them. There isn't much difference between "winter-growing type" and "summer-growing type" during cultivation. The growing seasons are still spring and autumn, and they still go dormant in summer and winter. So for ordinary hobbyists, just knowing how to care for them is enough ~ For details, please refer to questions ④ and ⑥.
⑧The watering and sunlight needs of all the succulents in the illustrated guide are different, so can they be planted together? How do you care for those mixed plantings?
Answer: Yes, you can plant them together! And the effect of combining them is even more beautiful~ Succulents of different colors look prettier when paired together. For care, just normal sunlight and watering will do. I think mixed-planted succulents grow better and faster, maybe because growing together gives them a sense of competition! But there is one thing to pay special attention to: for mixed succulent plantings, try to choose plants of the same family and genus, because their habits are roughly the same, so they are easier to manage. For example: mix Echeveria of one kind, mix Sedum of one kind, and you can also mix Sedum with Echeveria, because they all belong to the Crassulaceae family. However, mixing Aizoaceae and Crassulaceae together is not so good, because Aizoaceae are more sensitive to water, and after a long time you will find that you still have to dig them out and rearrange them.
⑨What is "fasciation"?
Answer: Fasciation refers to a common abnormal mutation phenomenon in flowers and plants.
Fasciation mutation means that certain varieties (cultivars) of succulents receive external stimulation from unknown causes, and their apical growing point divides abnormally and doubles, forming many small growth points, and these growth points develop horizontally and connect into a line, eventually growing into a flat fan-shaped or cockscomb-shaped band. Because of their strange shape, fasciated mutant plants have higher ornamental value, and because they are rarer, they are more precious than the original species (cultivar).