How to grow variegated vinca? A detailed guide to everyday care

1. Light

Variegated vinca likes plenty of light, preferably indirect light, but in the middle of summer when the sun is strongest, be sure to provide some shade. If you do not notice the problem and deal with it in time, the leaves can easily be scorched by the light.

2. Temperature

Variegated vinca likes a warm, humid environment, so keeping it indoors for everyday care is fine. Do not place it in environments that are too hot or too cold, otherwise it can easily die.

3. Watering

During the faster growing period, water more often and make sure the soil has enough moisture. When the weather is too dry or drought-stricken, also replenish water as needed. When growing in water, change the clean water once every 2 to 3 days.

Well, that is all for today's introduction to water culture. Friends who have not succeeded with water culture can refer to it. Thank you, flower friends, for your patient reading. For more on variegated vinca, follow our Four Seasons Plant Network for future updates!

Making and caring for combination potted plants (flower friend edition)

Some flower friends are no longer satisfied with growing a single plant and want to learn about making and caring for combination potted plants. Combination potted plants, also called group plantings or mixed plantings, as the name suggests, are ornamental potted plants made by freely combining different plants according to your own aesthetic standards and planting them in the same container. They have features such as rich colors, a long ornamental period, and plenty of interest.

I. Basic principles of making combination potted plants

1. Principle of similar characteristics: In principle, the different plants used in a group planting must have the same cold hardiness and heat tolerance, and the same light requirements and water and fertilizer requirements. For example, when making an outdoor mixed planting in winter, the plant materials chosen must all be cold hardy, because it is impossible to carry out all kinds of insulation measures for the sake of one plant that is easily damaged by cold; and when making an outdoor mixed planting in summer, you must choose sun-tolerant, heat-tolerant plant materials. Of course, you can also specifically choose shade-tolerant plant materials to make a mixed potted plant placed in a shady spot.

2. Principle of harmonious color: Generally speaking, there is simply nothing inharmonious about the natural color combinations of nature, but when we make artificial combinations, we need to make some choices. When making a group planting, it is best to determine a theme color. For example, in the cold winter, ornamental grasses with red or black leaves and plants with orange-red flowers are all good choices, while in summer, it is recommended to use bright, fresh light tones.

3. Principle of well-arranged layers: No one wants to admire a rigid, lifeless potted plant. The best potted plants should have tall, medium, and low layers, and can even have trailing parts. For example, use upright small shrubs or dwarfed small trees for the tallest part, use herbaceous flowers of different heights for the middle and lower parts, and use trailing vines for the hanging part.

II. Seasonal choices for making combination potted plants

A year has four seasons, but in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River and in northern regions, due to climate conditions, the seasons suitable for planting combination potted plants are only spring and winter. Of course, in places with suitable climate conditions, you can make a group planting whenever you want.

1. Spring

Suitable for using herbaceous flowers with high water needs, long flowering periods, and sun tolerance, paired with brightly colored foliage plants.

Recommended plant materials:

Upper layer——dwarfed purple-leaf canna, colorful dracaena, various cordylines, fragrant wood, dahlia, salvia

Middle layer——upright geranium, various petunias, million bells, coleus, marguerite daisy, vinca

Bottom layer——bedding begonia, pansy, horned violet, creeping phlox, angelonia, sweet alyssum, heuchera, mondo grass

Trailing——lobelia, golden ivy, English ivy, Duranta, verbena, Chlorophytum, Vinca major, variegated star jasmine

2. Winter

Suitable for using plants with rich colors or a strong winter flavor. It should be noted that many winter-planted plants bloom in spring, so space must be reserved for growth and flowering. We usually recommend bulb plants. When using bulb plants, the surface of the container should no longer be planted with taller plant materials with strong root systems. First, this is to reserve space for the bulbs to sprout; second, the flower scapes of the bulbs will also grow taller, and planting taller plants in advance would overshadow the main subject.

Recommended plant materials:

Interplanted bulbs——Dutch narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, crocus, grape hyacinth, netted iris

Surface herbaceous flowers——pansy, horned violet, primrose, cyclamen, dusty miller, heuchera

III. Everyday care of combination potted plants

1. Growing medium

Because mixed plantings contain many kinds of plants and many individual plants, the fertility of the growing medium must be sufficient. Of course, the prerequisite is that the soil must be airy and drain well. Mixed plantings in spring and summer can use a growing medium with slightly stronger water retention, because the amount of water transpired is large and water is consumed very quickly. You can choose conventional growing media such as peat, perlite, vermiculite, and coconut coir mixed in certain proportions. Flower friends with the means can also buy some large-particle succulent growing media such as akadama. Another very important point is that if you use a large pot, you must put drainage stones at the bottom of the pot. Besides promoting drainage and preventing root rot, this also helps with ventilation and air permeability.

2. Fertilizer

Base fertilizer must be applied generously. In addition to organic fertilizer mixed into the growing medium, we generally recommend applying slow-release fertilizer, which has a long fertilizer effect and is clean. Of course, during the growing period, it would be even better if you can give a dilute water-soluble fertilizer once every two weeks.

3. Light

You often hear flower friends say: My home has plenty of light, my flowers are in the sun every day! And so on. But ask two more questions and you will find that what the flower friend calls plenty of light is light coming through a glass window. Indeed, for people, the light is plentiful, but for plants, light through a glass window is often not enough. Many glass windows even filter out more than half of the visible light. Therefore, for flower friends with enclosed balconies, choosing plants that are not so sensitive to light is the wise choice. For other flower friends who have the conditions, unless you have chosen shade-tolerant plants, try to let your potted plants bathe in unobstructed direct sunlight in spring, autumn, and winter, especially in winter.

4. Moisture

Do not listen to talk like watering once every 3 days or once a week. At any time, you should water when water is needed. Mixed plantings in spring and summer contain many plants and consume water quickly. When the temperature rises above 20 degrees, on clear days you usually need to water 1 to 2 times a day depending on the situation. For potted plants placed outdoors, do not meddle on rainy days. In winter, temperatures are low and water consumption is slow, so water carefully. During the plum rain season, pay attention to ventilation and shelter from rain.

5. Temperature

After the summer temperature exceeds 35 degrees, the scorching sun is no longer so welcome. Apart from a few kinds of potted plants that can continue to be exposed to full sun, most plants should be given appropriate shade during the period from 11 o'clock to 16 o'clock. For winter mixed plantings, we usually choose relatively cold-hardy plants. As long as the weather does not drop below zero, there are basically no major problems.

6. Pruning

Many flower friends overlook the issue of pruning, often reluctant to cut, or not knowing how to cut. Actually, the pruning I want to talk about here can be limited to spent flowers and withered leaves. Sayings like "fallen flowers turn to mud and are crushed into dust" do not apply to potted plants and small gardens. Spent flowers and withered leaves contain large amounts of bacteria and insect eggs. Leaving them in the pot will bring plant diseases and pests beyond what you could imagine. So do not be soft-hearted. Pick up the scissors and prune boldly. Once a plant sets fruit, it often stops or slows flowering. Pruning spent flowers not only helps prevent and control pests and diseases, but also promotes the growth of new flower buds and extends the flowering period. In addition, some flower friends say they want to keep seeds to plant next year. What I want to say is that many ornamental flower seedlings today are grown from F1 generation seeds. Using them for propagation will cause very serious decline. Even if you want to keep seeds, please wait until the very end of the flowering period.

7. Seasonal change

After all, only a minority of flowering plants can be enjoyed year-round. After we make spring potted plants, by after June the flowering periods of many spring-flowering plants have passed. At this time, we should selectively change out the herbaceous flowers for the season to extend the overall ornamental period of the mixed planting.

Hydroponic flower knowledge | The complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Hydroponic flower knowledge | The complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Ten questions on hydroponic flower techniques

1. What flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages does it have?

Answer: In theory, any flower can be grown hydroponically, but different kinds of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need controlled water to promote flowering may have their flowering affected under hydroponic conditions, and some plants are sensitive to lack of oxygen and need air pumped into the nutrient solution at regular intervals to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different kinds of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so suitable nutrient solution formulas must be used. Therefore, flowers and plants must undergo proper acclimation before they can be grown hydroponically. There are many plants suitable for hydroponics, including gol
den tree, money tree, Peperomia, sunflower, arrowroot, little angel, Marianne, snake plant, golden barrel cactus and other cacti, as well as jewel orchid, snake plant, and others. Hydroponic flowers can go a long time without watering or fertilizing, have no foreign leaves, are clean and hygienic, and are beautiful and elegant. They are the first choice for home beautification and greening.

2. What substances are contained in the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?

Answer: The hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the essential nutrient elements needed for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, and others. It is a colorless, odorless, non-toxic product. Please use it with confidence.

3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two concentrated solutions?

Answer: The main reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is that when the concentrations of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, and copper in the nutrient solution are too high, they can precipitate with each other and cause the nutrients to become ineffective. Therefore, in order to ensure adequate and balanced nutrient supply, these non-toxic compounds cannot be mixed together in the concentrated nutrient solution. So, if the hydroponic nutrient solution sold on the market today is only one kind, its nutrients are often unbalanced.

4. Is more nutrient solution in the hydroponic flower container always better?

Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth of the flower's root system and must not be too much. Generally, when the root system is well developed, part of the root system should be exposed to the air above the liquid surface so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air, which is very beneficial for healthy root growth. Do not add too much nutrient solution to the container, but it also must not be too little. If it is too little, you will need to replenish the nutrient solution frequently, causing inconvenience in management. Usually, maintaining a nutrient solution layer about 5-10 cm deep is enough.

5. Do home hydroponic flowers need sunlight?

Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If it is a shade-loving species, it should not be exposed to direct sunlight. However, because hydroponic flowers displayed at home are usually in a relatively poor light environment, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed on a balcony with slightly stronger light at regular intervals. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day each week is enough.

6. Do hydroponic flowers need a different nutrient solution for each kind of flower?

Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every kind of flower needs a corresponding nutrient solution. You only need to choose different nutrient solutions according to different major categories. Of course, you can also use a general-purpose nutrient solution. At present, the Soilless Cultivation Technology Research Laboratory of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage type, indoor plant type, orchid type, and flowering type.

7. Can flowers grown in soil be directly converted to hydroponics?

Answer: Converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics must go through a series of treatments first. First, take out the soil-grown flower and wash the root system clean, then soak the roots in hydroponic root treatment solution for about 20 minutes before placing them in a hydroponic container for hydroponic culture.

8. Do fish kept together with flowers need to be fed?

Answer: No feeding is needed. This is because most of the fish kept together with flowers are small fish. These fish only need to absorb plankton and root secretions from the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If you feed them, it is instead easy to cause the fish to overeat and die. At the same time, adding feed also easily makes the nutrient solution cloudy and reduces the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution, affecting the growth of both flowers and fish.

9. When growing hydroponic flowers, should the nutrient solution be replenished or replaced?

Answer: This depends on the speed of the plant's water consumption. If the weather is dry and the plant is relatively large, generally after about 15-20 days you need to replenish the nutrient solution once. When replenishing, just add an appropriate amount of nutrient solution. When replenishing the nutrient solution, never add too much. Adding about 1/3-1/2 of the container depth is enough.

10. How long is the shelf life of the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?

Answer: The shelf life of the concentrated solution for hydroponic flowers is almost unlimited, but generally do not use any that has been stored for more than 5 years. When storing the concentrated nutrient solution, keep it away from light as much as possible, and do not place it where children can reach it.
Talking from experience about home hydroponic flowers

As an eco-friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-grown flowers: (1) Water replaces soil, with no smell and no odor, clean and hygienic. (2) No need to repot or loosen soil, which reduces the labor of growing flowers. (3) Lightweight, can be moved anytime and anywhere. (4) Flexible in material selection, can be reasonably matched according to indoor display. (5) Fewer harmful microorganisms in the water, high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can remain stable above 80%.

1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Many years of practice have proven that foliage plants are the first choice for home hydroponic flowers, such as Guangdong evergreen, dieffenbachia, monstera, calla lily, pothos, lucky bamboo, asparagus fern, spider plant, aloe, inch plant, Tradescantia, coleus, Brazil wood, tiny palm, hibiscus, fuchsia, and others. In addition, scarlet sage, azalea, camellia, cyclamen, amaryllis, calla lily, crown of thorns, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and others, these flowering plants have good results with hydroponics. Boston fern, calendula, petunia, and red-backed eurya have a low survival rate as hydroponic flowers.

2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials. (1) Container. Any beautiful container that can hold water will do. It is best to use a transparent container, such as a beverage bottle (saw off the narrow neck), wine glass, teacup, vase, fish tank, and so on. The opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, and material of the container should be coordinated with the hydroponic flower. It is best to clean and disinfect it before use. (2) Bedding material. Bedding material is often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container, mainly to stabilize the plant, such as pebbles, yellow sand, perlite, and so on. Small pebbles with an elegant appearance and varied shapes are best. They should also be cleaned and disinfected before use.

3. Time for hydroponics. Spring and autumn are the most suitable for hydroponics, but it also varies by flower species. If the indoor temperature is 15°C to 28°C, foliage plants can be grown hydroponically all year round. Flowering plants are best grown hydroponically when the first flower bud is about to open. For example, cyclamen, hyacinth, azalea, camellia, and others are often grown hydroponically in early January, so that the full blooming period falls during the Spring Festival, giving people the joy of spring warmth and blooming flowers.

4. Obtaining and treating hydroponic materials. (1) Root-washing method. Select a potted plant with a full shape, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases. Remove it from the pot and remove the soil, wash the soil from the roots with water close to room temperature, and cut off roots that are already decayed and aged; for those with dense fibrous roots, about 1/3 can be cut off, but care should be taken not to damage new roots. Then soak the root system in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes; this both sterilizes and disinfects and can promote new root growth. After that, proceed with hydroponics. This method is mostly used for relatively large plants and flowers that are difficult to root. (2) Water-cutting method. Select semi-lignified branches of the current year that are thick and strong and free of pests and diseases, cut them off and insert them into water for hydroponics. The cut is usually made 2 to 3 mm below a stem node. The cut end should be trimmed smooth with a sharp knife (wiped clean and disinfected with white liquor in advance), and the lower leaves of the branch should be removed. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a black plastic bag around a transparent container to help the cuttings root. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.

5. Water for hydroponics and changing the water. (1) Water. Mountain spring water is best, as its water quality is clean, pollution-free, does not precipitate, and contains various trace elements necessary for plant growth. Cooled boiled water is second best. It is best not to use tap water, because it contains many impurities, easily precipitates, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial to flower growth. (2) Changing the water. Because of normal plant growth and metabolism, after a period of hydroponics, the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed. At the same time, the root system produces mucus, the water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning, and a good amount of the nutrient solution added to the water has been absorbed by the plant. If too much of the unabsorbed elements remain, it can also harm the flowers. Therefore, the water must be changed regularly. And changes in water quality are directly related to temperature. Spring and autumn are the peak growing seasons for flowers, so change the water once every 7 to 10 days; in summer, change the water once every 4 to 6 days; in winter, change the water about once every 15 to 20 days. Each time you change the water, wash away the mucus on the roots and cut off aged roots and rotten roots. The height of the added water should be level with the root zone. Too deep easily causes oxygen deficiency and root rot, while too shallow easily causes the root system to lack water and affects growth.

6. Adding hydroponic nutrient solution. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, after half a month of hydroponics, new roots will begin to form. Along with the growth of the flowers and plants, nutrient solution must be continuously added in conjunction with changing the water. You can buy different types of flower nutrient solutions on the market as needed. It must be noted that: (1) The various nutrient solutions purchased are stock solutions and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies with different flower species, so read the instructions carefully. (2) Each type of special nutrient solution must be used only for its intended purpose, to avoid mismatching. For example, if orchid nutrient solution is applied to clivia, it will cause clivia not to bloom or to bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period. Simply changing the water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also works well, such as for pothos, dieffenbachia, and others.

Techniques for preventing and controlling pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers

Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, and it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew on the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, had their roots washed, and been converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, insect eggs, larvae, and so on. If these are not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Because of the particular nature of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor to use large doses of fungicides to sterilize. Although these drugs can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment at the same time.

Prevention should be the main approach to possible pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible plants that are robust, growing luxuriantly, and free of pests and diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, you can use manual capture, or rinse them away with tap water. Infectious diseases occur relatively rarely in hydroponic flowers. Only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled and necrotic, or irregular round wet spot-like lesions, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection by pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot, stuffy, high-temperature summer weather, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sunburn, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, nutrient solution that is too concentrated, or an inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry up and the lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, because the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, root rot is prone to occur, and this is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should disconnected and root-rotted static hydroponic flowers be cared for? Due to improper management, or root rot from oxygen deficiency in the roots, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become disconnected and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers that have become disconnected or have root rot, the method of plant renewal can be used. Cut off the still healthy upper branch 3 cm below a stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As long as the disconnected lower branch does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, and at that point you can switch to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow cordyline, arrowhead plant, and others can all use this method.

The complete home hydroponic flower manual

Four ways to obtain hydroponic plants

1. Remove from the pot flowers grown in soil or other organic substrates, or in inorganic substrates, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and switch to static hydroponics with nutrient solution.

2. Use flower branches as cuttings, insert them directly into still water, and after they root, grow them with nutrient solution.

3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) as they grow, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as spider plant and pineapple. These small plantlets can be picked off and grown directly in water.

4. For flowers that produce many offshoots, such as clivia and bromeliads, the method of peeling off rooted offshoots can be used for hydroponics.

How to prepare hydroponic nutrient solution

Home static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must meet three basic conditions:

1. Choose plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, for use as static hydroponic flowers.

2. Choose a leak-proof cultivation container without a bottom hole that matches the size and style of the hydroponic flower.

3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with balanced ion absorption (suitable ratio) and complete mineral nutrients essential for flower and plant growth. The recommended formula is as follows:

(1) Macroelements: calcium nitrate 0.27 g, potassium nitrate 0.13 g, monopotassium phosphate 0.08 g, magnesium sulfate 0.13 g.

(2) Trace elements: disodium edetate 8.0 mg, ferrous sulfate 5.0 mg, manganese sulfate 1.4 mg, boric acid 2.0 mg, zinc sulfate 0.07 mg, copper sulfate 0.04 mg, sodium molybdate 0.09 mg. (3) Pure water: 1 liter (1000 ml).

The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC is <0.5 mm/cm.

Cultivate the selected flower in a vessel and pour in hydroponic nutrient solution to grow it, and it becomes a static hydroponic flower with a distinctive charm.

To prepare the nutrient solution, it is best to use pure water. Of course, drinking tap water can generally also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. They have all undergone strict treatment, are clean and hygienic, and meet the requirements of sterile (or low-bacteria) cultivation. However, full attention must be paid to the fact that pure water has fewer impurities and germs and basically contains no nutrient elements essential to plants, while tap water, as the components in the water source change, contains nutrient elements in unstable forms. Therefore, the nutrient solution prepared with pure water has a stable, consistent composition, while the nutrient solution prepared with tap water has an unstable composition.

Liquid chlorine is used to disinfect tap water. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flowers and plants. You can install a water purifier on the faucet. Let out the tap water, store it in a relatively wide-mouthed bucket for several days, and stir it with a wooden stick a few times to remove the chlorine. If you urgently need water for changing the water, you can add 3 to 5 grains of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as baking soda) to 10 kg of tap water, stir evenly, and it can also achieve the effect of removing chlorine.

Most foliage flowers like a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance of alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics either. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the pH of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which can help flowers absorb trace elements, keep physiological metabolism undisturbed, grow normally, and keep leaf color emerald green.

How to carry out foliar fertilization

Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under conditions of root oxygen deficiency, which can cause certain defects in the normal development of the flowers. In order to improve the quality of the flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves. A fine-hole spray bottle should be used, and try not to let the fertilizer solution run off. The undersides of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growing period, and it can make hydroponic flowers have luxuriant branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for foliage display that can also be enjoyed for their blooms, such as peace lily, bedding begonia, bamboo begonia, calla lily, and others, during the bud stage you can spray the leaves once a week with a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilution until the flowers open.

Temperature requirements for hydroponic flowers

Hydroponic flowers only change one way of cultivating flowers; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flowers and plants used in static hydroponics mostly originate from Latin American rainforests, or tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded ravine areas, and belong to non-cold-hardy flower plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer cold damage, with leaf edges scorched and dry, old leaves turning yellow, drooping, and falling off. Under static hydroponic conditions, this phenomenon will likewise occur. Some flowers are relatively cold hardy, such as English ivy, Vinca major, and candle plant, which grow normally at temperatures of 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, the leaves of some flowers lose their luster, growth becomes sluggish, and scorch-like brown spots appear on the leaf edges, showing a dormant state of intolerance to high temperatures, such as bamboo begonia, bedding begonia, coleus, and others. At high temperatures above 30°C, root rot is common in static hydroponics. Of course, this point is also related to the fact that the dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution decreases as the temperature rises. Keeping the temperature at 15°C to 28°C is suitable for various flowers in static hydroponics. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each kind of flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.

Light requirements for hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant, shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of these flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growing period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shady environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of their leaves in a relatively weak light environment and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light that is not exposed to strong direct light can such flowers maintain their leaf color and luster.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation in which flowers are placed should be rotated at regular intervals. This work can be combined with cleaning the vessel and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the root system, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, and the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and growing upward.

Humid environment and good ventilation

The places of origin of foliage flowers are mostly warm, humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to spray mist on the flower leaves (to prevent the sprayed mist from dampening furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors to do this, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets stick to the leaf surface and do not run off. For relatively firm leaves with a waxy film, such as monstera and clivia, you can wipe the leaf surface with a damp towel, which both increases leaf surface humidity and removes dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, you can place a shallow dish or basin of clean water beside the flower, and the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers are displayed indoors. If doors and windows are kept tightly closed and the air is turbid, it is unfavorable for their growth. Especially when people go to work and leave home during the day, if doors and windows are not opened and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor have fresh air, the dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and their condition will worsen more and more, resulting in yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are displayed should have doors and windows opened at regular intervals to create air convection and let fresh outside air enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which will cause scorched edges and withered tips on the leaves of flowers with relatively thin leaves. Air-conditioned rooms likewise lack fresh air, reducing the dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be done at appropriate times. This is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places where large hydroponic flowers are displayed especially need this work done well.

Prevention and control of pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers

Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, and it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew on the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, had their roots washed, and been converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, insect eggs, larvae, and so on. If these are not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Because of the particular nature of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor to use large doses of fungicides to sterilize. Although these drugs can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment at the same time.

Prevention should be the main approach to possible pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible plants that are robust, growing luxuriantly, and free of pests and diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, you can use manual capture, or rinse them away with tap water. Infectious diseases occur relatively rarely in hydroponic flowers. Only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled and necrotic, or irregular round wet spot-like lesions, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.

Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection by pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot, stuffy, high-temperature summer weather, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sunburn, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, nutrient solution that is too concentrated, or an inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry up and the lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, because the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, root rot is prone to occur, and this is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should disconnected and root-rotted static hydroponic flowers be cared for? Due to improper management, or root rot from oxygen deficiency in the roots, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become disconnected and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers that have become disconnected or have root rot, the method of plant renewal can be used. Cut off the still healthy upper branch 3 cm below a stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As long as the disconnected lower branch does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, and at that point you can switch to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow cordyline, arrowhead plant, and others can all use this method.

How many hydroponic flowers are appropriate to display

Growing hydroponic flowers indoors can help regulate mood and beautify the environment, and can also purify the air. Displaying a few plants appropriately is beneficial. If the room area is not large and too many flowers are placed, it will cause flowers and people to compete for oxygen at night. So how many flowers are appropriate to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered appropriate to grow one or two kinds of flowers per 10 square meters calculated by room area. By this standard, for a room of 50 square meters to 60 square meters, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of varying sizes can both satisfy viewing and avoid flowers competing with people for oxygen at night.

How to choose hydroponic flower materials in winter

Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people for their clean, beautiful, and easy-to-care-for characteristics. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, you must pay attention to the following four "musts":

First, choose flower species suitable for hydroponics. If you buy a type that is not suitable for hydroponics and grow it in water, it will not be long before it gradually dies because the roots rot. Aquatic plants, wetland plants, and a group of terrestrial plants that are relatively less drought-tolerant are all quite suitable for hydroponics, such as umbrella plant, arrowhead vine, pothos, Philodendron, inch plant, lucky bamboo, and so on.

Second, choose flower species with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, they need relatively high temperatures to overwinter and are difficult to overwinter safely in an ordinary home, where they are prone to frost damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with only slight cold protection include Monstera deliciosa, purple-leaf spiderwort, aloe, spider plant, umbrella plant, dwarf palm, and broadleaf lady palm.

Third, choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors lift soil-grown flowers out of the soil, wash the soil off the roots, and immediately supply them to the flower market. Although such flower materials may look normal, they still need to go through an adaptation process before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so they must be carefully identified when purchased. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or stem base.

Fourth, choose robust plants free of pests and diseases. Plants with upright, vigorous branches and leaves and full, glossy leaves are conducive to displaying the ornamental effect that flowers should have.

Advantages of hydroponics

1. Simple daily management

The daily management of "Hydroponic Flower King" hydroponic flowers is very simple. Apart from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the vigorous growth period of plants in spring and summer, and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, it does not require extra care. Ordinarily, you only need to spray water on the leaves in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaves, just wipe them with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. It saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil, and watering every day, making it very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.

2. Clean and stylish

Because hydroponic flowers are completely separated from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-bacteria nutrient solution environment, they will not pollute our living environment with pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil like soil-grown flowers do, making our homes safer, cleaner, and more reassuring. Moreover, because they are separated from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, vessels, and materials to grow them. We can not only enjoy the flowers and leaves, but also appreciate the usually unseen process of root growth and their varied beauty, making it very neat and stylish.

3. Many suitable varieties, and the technology is easy to master and operate

Because the technology for adapting plant roots from a soil-grown environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, "Hydroponic Flower King" does not require water roots to be grown through planting baskets, nor does it require early-stage computer or electric field mutagenesis. Only very simple technical treatment is needed, and soil-grown roots can quickly transform into water roots. Anyone can grow vigorous, lush hydroponic flowers, which greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives products greater profit margins, and increases the competitiveness of products in the market; at the same time, because production costs are lower, more people can enjoy the lifestyle trend brought by new technology, rapidly expanding market share. Because no planting baskets are used, hydroponic flowers become more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater will change the concentration and pH value of the nutrient solution, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for open-air cultivation. In this way, some light-loving plants are more difficult to grow indoors at home through hydroponics, but common shade-loving and semi-shade-loving flowers can basically all be successfully grown hydroponically, and the number of tested varieties has currently reached nearly more than 400. If your home has sunlight or an artificially regulated greenhouse, then in theory any plant can be grown hydroponically, only with different degrees of difficulty.

4. Green and environmentally friendly, and flowers and fish can be kept together

The "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic ingredients, so fish and flowers can be kept together for a long time without any side effects harmful to flowers or fish. The fish in our specialty store still grow well after long-term rearing, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants, with very good results. Practice has proved that it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special ingredients, mosquitoes and insects are not likely to breed in the nutrient solution. Moreover, when you change the water, if you pour the discarded nutrient solution into your soil-grown potted flowers, there will be even more unexpected surprises. Facts have proved that "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and environmentally friendly nutrient solution, and its effect is very obvious.

Selection of hydroponic flower species

The growth and development of flowers require suitable conditions such as water, oxygen, nutrients, light, and temperature. Water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as light and temperature are suitable and the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in time, flowers can grow normally in water.

Due to differences in ecological habits and tissue structure, different flowers have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have ventilating tissues inside their bodies, and the oxygen produced by these plants during photosynthesis can be sent through the ventilating tissues to the root system for respiration; some flowers have aerial roots at the stem nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen needed by the plants from the air; some flowers, although they do not have ventilating tissues and aerial roots that absorb oxygen, are very well adapted to hydroponic conditions. However, the oxygen content in water for some flowers cannot meet the needs of their normal growth and development, so such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to make hydroponics successful, it is necessary to choose flower species that can adapt to hydroponic conditions, and do not blindly cultivate them, so as to avoid failure in hydroponics.

Flower species adapted to hydroponics

Araceae

Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When propagated by water cuttings, most can take root in a relatively short time and grow rapidly, quickly forming a plant shape with a certain ornamental value; after soil-grown plants are washed with water, most of their original roots can adapt to a hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers adapted to hydroponics include pothos, Chinese evergreen, Dieffenbachia, Aglaonema 'Silver King', Aglaonema 'Golden Queen', clustered Philodendron, mini Monstera deliciosa, Monstera deliciosa, Spathiphyllum, green emerald, Philodendron, Philodendron panduriforme, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', arrowhead vine, Alocasia, anthurium, jade gem, and so on.

Commelinaceae

Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as purple-leaf spiderwort, purple-backed oyster plant, Lophatherum gracile, inch plant, and so on, all of which can quickly take root and grow when grown as water cuttings.

Liliaceae

The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as aloe, triangular aloe, Haworthia fasciata, spider plant, Cordyline fruticosa, Dracaena, Madagascar dragon tree, snake plant, Agave, golden-edged lucky bamboo, sea onion, silver-edged Chinese evergreen, silver-edged lilyturf, and so on.

Crassulaceae

Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively well adapted to hydroponic conditions, such as Aeonium, Echeveria, silver jade, jade plant, Bryophyllum, and so on.

In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics also include Aucuba japonica, umbrella plant, Coleus, purple velvet plant, blue pine, Begonia maculata, Begonia masoniana, green emerald, Clivia, Paphiopedilum, Croton, dusty miller, Senecio, Pereskia, triangular bamboo, Guzmania, Cryptanthus, Chloranthus, Trachelospermum, Euphorbia, Euphorbia tirucalli, variegated periwinkle, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Senecio macroglossus, English ivy, common ivy, broadleaf lady palm, dwarf palm, and so on.

When choosing hydroponic flower species, in addition to considering whether they can adapt to hydroponic conditions, the following factors should also be noted:

Although some flowers are very well adapted to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high temperature requirements for overwintering. For example, some species of Dieffenbachia and Croton require overwintering temperatures above 15c; pothos, arrowhead vine, golden-edged lucky bamboo, and Dracaena species also require overwintering temperatures above 10c. For rooms heated in winter, this of course will not be a problem, but for most households, it is still very difficult to let these flowers safely pass through the cold winter. Although some flowers will not cause the death of the entire plant after overwintering, due to the effects of low-temperature frost damage, the leaves of the plant will become wilted and listless, lose their proper luster, turn yellow, have scorched leaf tips or margins, or develop new scorched spots on the leaves, and may even cause extensive leaf drop or partial death of branches and leaves, thereby losing their ornamental value. Therefore, when there are no conditions for stable room heating, attention must be paid to choosing flower species with relatively strong cold resistance. Flowers suitable for hydroponics in ordinary homes include:

Flowers with strong cold resistance

Such as Chinese evergreen, Trachelospermum, broadleaf lady palm, Agave, Aucuba japonica, jade plant, sea onion, variegated lilyturf, and so on, which can tolerate low temperatures around 0c.

Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance

Such as Monstera deliciosa, purple-leaf spiderwort, Lophatherum gracile, aloe, spider plant, silver jade, umbrella plant, purple velvet plant, dusty miller, Chloranthus, Euphorbia tirucalli, variegated periwinkle, common ivy, dwarf palm, and so on, which can overwinter safely with slight protection during winter.

Of course, some flowers such as Philodendron 'Red Emerald', Philodendron 'Green Emerald', arrowhead vine, pothos, snake plant, Croton, and so on, although relatively difficult to overwinter safely, are easy to obtain, grow quickly, and have high ornamental value, so they can also be considered for purchase and cultivation when spring is warm.

The issue of shade tolerance

Because indoor light conditions are relatively poor, it is advisable to choose flower species that like semi-shade or tolerate semi-shade. At the same time, even shade-loving or semi-shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity. For example, Croton, purple-leaf spiderwort, and inch plant need sufficient scattered light, but Spathiphyllum, giant white bird of paradise, Chinese evergreen, and Aglaonema 'Silver King' all have very strong shade tolerance. Because different rooms and different light conditions within rooms are different, suitable flower species should be selected according to the light conditions of the placement location, so as to ensure normal flower growth and maintain good ornamental quality. When light is insufficient, it will cause the branches and leaves of the plant to grow leggy, the stems to become thin, the internodes to become longer, the leaves to become smaller and deformed, to lose greenness and their proper luster, and variegated leaf stripes to become lighter and fade, and may even cause extensive leaf drop, thereby seriously affecting the ornamental quality of the flowers.

Techniques for growing spider plant in water

Spider plant has fresh green leaves and orchid-like leaf shape, is fresh and elegant, and is a common household foliage flower loved by people. In addition, it also has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.

1. Container: The container bottle can be single-layer or double-layer. A single-layer bottle is a bottomless plastic bottle or bottomless ceramic bottle used to plant spider plant. For a double-layer bottle, use a plastic sieve as the upper layer, and the lower bottle is a bottomless bottle vessel. Plant the spider plant in the upper plastic sieve and let the spider plant roots hang down into the bottle.

2. Taking seedlings: Remove a potted or field-grown spider plant from the pot or dig it up from the ground, remove the soil from its roots, wash its roots with clean water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, keep the fibrous roots, cut off some leaves (old leaves and pest-damaged leaves), and keep robust leaves, generally leaving 6 to 10 leaves.

3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle potting method, insert the prepared spider plant into the bottle, tightly tie the bottle mouth with sponge and insert a plastic straw, which is used to supply water. Let the spider plant stand upright, put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the bottle, and let the spider plant roots grow immersed in water. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the spider plant on the plastic sieve, let the roots pass through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle, put ceramic material or gravel (large particles) in the sieve, let the spider plant stand upright, and put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the lower bottle. After potting is completed, place the spider plant indoors or in a cool place for management.

4. Management:

① Water: For cultivation in a single-layer container bottle, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, and input water through the straw until it is full. For a double-layer bottle, change the water once a week. When changing the water, pour out the bottle water, wash the container bottle clean, add clean water and flower nutrient solution, and then place the plastic sieve on the water bottle.

② Fertilizer: Add flower nutrient solution at the same time as adding water and changing water through the roots. For foliar topdressing, spray the branches and leaves with diluted flower nutrient solution once every 3 days.

③ Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, spray the leaves with all-purpose powder mixed with water.

④ Promoting flowering: Spider plant blooms half a year after potting. When blooming, do not spray water on the flowers, to prevent premature flower drop. After the flowers wither, cut the flowers off from the branch tips to promote reblooming.

The best choice for static hydroponics

Araceae plants have 105 genera and more than 2,500 species. They originated in tropical Asia and arose in waters or swamps in forest regions. After a long historical evolution, the vast majority have currently developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common excellent ornamental plants (genera) in Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia, Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, and so on. Although the plants of the above genera are all terrestrial, they have extremely close kinship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves wetland species, some have aerial roots, some easily produce adventitious roots, and some easily develop ventilating tissues under stress environments.
In static hydroponics of terrestrial plants, root respiration is in a severe state of oxygen deficiency. The prerequisite for success is correctly selecting the plant species, that is, it has close kinship with aquatic plants. Araceae plants have close kinship with aquatic plants, specifically shown as follows:
1. Araceae plants evolved and developed around aquatic genetic genes. The new Engler system holds that the most primitive genus in Araceae is Acorus, and the most evolved is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or wetland evergreen herb and is the most primitive genus in Araceae. It originated in the Old Tropics of the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago) and first arose in water environments. Pistia is almost distributed across freshwater waters of all continents of the Old and New Worlds. It is the most evolved monotypic genus in Araceae and is a floating plant propagated vegetatively. It is easy to migrate and spread and has very strong reproductive capacity. In addition, Araceae also includes famous aquatic species such as Acorus tatarinowii, water taro, and taro.
As an aquatic plant, the evolved Pistia is not a simple repetition of the primitive Acorus, but a dialectical "negation of the negation," a repetition on a higher basis. Although the vast majority of species in Araceae grow on land, they all come from aquatic ancestors, and phenomenally form a "negation" of their aquatic ancestors. Finally, they transform into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia. This return is another "negation," which is the dialectical law of the "negation of the negation." It shows that the opposing poles of aquatic and terrestrial reach unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are outstanding choices for static hydroponics.
2. Araceae belongs to Arales. This order has only two families, and the other family in the same order is the aquatic family Lemnaceae. Lemnaceae are floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that Araceae and aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor and have an extremely close kinship with each other.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolved forward around aquatic genetic genes, along an approximate spiral curve.
3. The relationship of Arales in plant classification systems: The Hutchinson system holds that Arales evolved from Liliales, and a few aquatic types in Liliales have a parallel developmental relationship with the marshy Najadales. The Takhtajan system holds that Arales, Arecales, and Commelinales have a common ancestor (primitive lily types), and more remotely can be traced back to Magnoliales. The Cronquist system holds that Arales has close kinship with Pandanales and Arecales, and shares a common ancestor with Liliales. From the above classification systems, it can be inferred that Arales has kinship correlation with Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolved forward around aquatic genetic genes, share a common ancestor with aquatic Lemnaceae, and have kinship correlation with Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic species. Therefore, containing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants outstanding choices for static hydroponics.

Judging and handling root rot in hydroponics

During hydroponics, plants often suffer root rot due to management and other reasons. For example, excessively low temperature, overly concentrated fertilizer, and diseases can all cause root rot, and root rot will worsen water quality and affect plant growth. To judge whether roots are rotten: first, smell the roots with your nose; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted; second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also have rotted and deteriorated; third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the root system turns yellow and changes color, it indicates the root system has been damaged. After the root system rots, gently pull at the root collar, and its epidermis is very easily torn off, leaving only the lignified part.

After root rot appears, cut it off in time. Generally, root rot gradually spreads upward from the root tips. After pruning, continue until normal roots are reached. After changing the water, observe carefully. If root rot continues to appear, handle it in time.

Simple hydroponic facilities - bottles and jars and cultivation management

Using waste containers such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles, white polystyrene hard foam boxes (cases), and so on, with slight adjustment, they can become hydroponic carriers of different sizes and shapes. This not only suits local conditions and makes the best use of materials, but can also green the surrounding environment and has quite a pleasant feeling of returning to nature.

1. Bottles and jars

1. Such as metal beverage cans, wide-mouth glass or plastic bottles, paper foil-coated square beverage boxes, and so on. These were originally used to hold liquids. As long as the original contents are rinsed clean, they can be set aside as hydroponic carriers.

2. Planting cup: According to the size of the mouth of the selected container, choose a plastic cold drink cup that fits just about 1/3 into the mouth as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut a "well"-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup so that the root system can extend through the bottom of the cup into the nutrient solution, while the plant's anchoring material will not leak out. The opening also has a ventilation function.

3. Anchoring the plant: Prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (nonwoven cloth) about 8 x 12 cm, used for clothing lining. Gently rinse off the soil from the hydroponic seedling or purchased soil-grown potted flower, without damaging the root system. Wrap and roll the root system with non-woven fabric, then wrap the outside with porous plastic sponge (cut scraps left from making shoulder pads for jackets or cushions for sofas and chairs), or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as thermal insulation material, some yellow, some yellow with white) to thicken the roll so that it can fit exactly into the plastic planting cup and anchor the plant. If none of the above items are available, floral foam, after proper cutting, can also be used as anchoring material. Immerse the non-woven fabric roll wrapping the root system, together with the exposed root system, into the bottle or jar containing nutrient solution. It must be noted that the nutrient solution level should ensure a space distance of no less than 1 cm from the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to the success or failure of hydroponics. With the wicking action of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the root system for nutrition. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time, the distance between the liquid level and the bottom of the planting cup can be somewhat larger, about 3 cm.

4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, the bottle body must be covered with a light-blocking material to avoid direct sunlight causing algae growth and competing with the cultivated plants for nutrients. In summer, in order to prevent a large rise in liquid temperature caused by sun exposure, it is best to have sun-shading measures, or place it in a place where sunlight cannot directly shine.

2. Boxes and cases

1. Box body: Usually white rigid polystyrene foam boxes used for packaging and shock absorption, or corrugated cardboard boxes or wooden boxes with a certain strength, can all be used. Generally about 35 x 25 x 15 cm to 60 x 40 x 16 cm. If the bottom (body) of the box has holes, they can be leveled with wooden boards or foam boards. Line the inside of the box with black agricultural film to prevent nutrient solution leakage. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is not light-transmitting, the film can be omitted. If there is no black film, other films can also be used as substitutes.

2. Upper cover: The upper cover also serves the function of a planting board. Find a polystyrene foam board the same area as the box and about 2.5 cm thick to serve as the upper cover and planting board. Cut a certain number of planting holes about 6 cm in diameter in the board. As with bottles and jars, it is enough if the selected plastic cold drink cup can be placed in it while exposing about 1/2 cup height. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6?16 holes. In addition, on the side of the upper cover, near the inner side of the box body, cut a small hole with a diameter of 2 cm, to be used for usually observing the nutrient solution level and adding nutrient solution.

3. Planting cup: Material selection and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.

4. Floating board: Take a polystyrene foam board 2.5?3 cm thick and 2.5?3 cm smaller on all four sides than the net inner area of the box as the floating board. Regularly cut some small holes with a diameter of 1?2 cm on it to increase the air content of the floating board and facilitate the root system extending into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm dry thickness), or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25?50 g/sq m non-woven fabric on the floating board as a wick for absorbing nutrient solution. If these things really cannot be obtained, medical sterile absorbent gauze can also be used as a substitute. The area of the absorbent cotton layer is about 6 cm larger on all four sides than the floating board, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang down freely from all four sides of the floating board (like an apron), immerse in the nutrient solution and absorb it, thereby ensuring that a moist layer containing nutrient solution forms on the floating board. The plant root system can extend freely on the floating board and have more direct contact with air. Another part of the root system can still extend through the four sides of the floating board, or through the small holes in the floating board, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can make up for the unfavorable environment of ordinary static hydroponics, which cannot circulate nutrient solution and oxygenate.

5. Cultivation management:

(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. At the time of initial planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven fabric root roll extending from the planting cup, so that the nutrient solution can be absorbed upward. The highest liquid level must leave a certain space in the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3?5 cm due to plant absorption and transpiration, nutrient solution should be added until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.

(2) When the nutrients in the nutrient solution change greatly, or when there is precipitation, turbidity, foul odor, or pathogen infection, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, up to complete renewal.

Requirements of hydroponic flowers for a humid environment and good ventilation

The places of origin of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to spray water on the flower leaves. To prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display. When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets stick to the leaf surface and do not run down. For relatively firm flower leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera deliciosa and Clivia, you can wipe the leaf surface with a wet towel, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, you can place a shallow dish or basin filled with clean water beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers placed indoors, if doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is stale, will be adversely affected in their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, if doors and windows are not opened, and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need, nor have enough fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth will become worse and worse, producing phenomena such as yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. Places where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection, allowing outside fresh air to enter the room and increasing the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Air-conditioned rooms can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which will cause scorched margins on the leaves of flowers with relatively thin leaves and dry leaf tips. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. They should be ventilated in a timely manner. This is beneficial to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers on display especially need to do this work well.

Light requirements of hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shady environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or in offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as Coleus and Croton, will lose the color of the leaf surface in relatively weak light and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light but not direct strong light can such flowers maintain bright leaf color.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of placed flowers should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined and completed when cleaning vessels and changing nutrient solution. Turn the flower, after root cleaning, 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

How hydroponic flowers overwinter safely

How hydroponic flowers overwinter

Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and tissues will become necrotic below 0 degrees Celsius. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, the indoor temperature in winter generally will not fall below 5 degrees Celsius. If there are a few days of extreme low-temperature weather, it can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; in the north, because most indoors have heating, it can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.

Why hydroponic flowers need water changes

Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer. At the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more. Therefore, after a period of growth, hydroponic flowers need to be given new nutrient solution. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-grown flowers. Soil-grown flowers need fertilization and also need to change soil once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the water-changing interval should be shorter during the vigorous growth period in spring and summer, and can be longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

Hydroponic method for cyclamen

Growing cyclamen in water only began to appear in Europe in the last year or two. Because this cultivation method separates cyclamen from traditional flower pots and substrate, it is both clean and beautiful, and can give blooming cyclamen plants multiple cultivation and application forms. As soon as it appeared on the market, it won enthusiastic welcome from consumers. In fact, growing cyclamen in water is not difficult. First, choose a satisfactory cyclamen potted flower and prepare a container for hydroponic cyclamen. In this way, once the preparatory work is complete, you can begin making hydroponic cyclamen. For hydroponic cyclamen, remove the purchased cyclamen potted flower together with the substrate (flower soil) from the pot, place it under a faucet and rinse the substrate clean with a relatively gentle stream of water. You can also place the plant together with the substrate in a basin filled with water, rinse the substrate off in the water, and then wash it clean with tap water. Note that throughout the entire process of removing the substrate, movements must be gentle, and try to avoid damaging the cyclamen root system. The rinsed cyclamen plant can then be placed in the previously prepared hydroponic container. Add water, and a beautiful hydroponic cyclamen is done.

It should be pointed out that no fertilizer of any kind needs to be added to the water for cultivating cyclamen. The nutrients in the cyclamen corm can allow the cyclamen plant to maintain normal growth and flowering for 4-6 weeks. At the same time, the water surface height should be kept below the corm. Generally, according to the evaporation of water, add water to the container 1-2 times a week to maintain the water surface height.

In fact, in hydroponic cyclamen, the cyclamen plant is only one factor. To make hydroponic cyclamen distinctive in features and outstanding in personality, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessels and the combination method of the cyclamen plants. This all depends entirely on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.

Hydroponic method with exposed roots for Hoya

Hoya has traditionally been soil-grown. Now, through experiments with exposed-root hydroponics, it has the following characteristics: ① saves labor; ② hygienic; ③ few pests and diseases; ④ simple management; ⑤ long flowering period; ⑥ roots, leaves, and flowers can all be enjoyed, and so on.

The method of exposed-root hydroponics is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-grown Hoya, wash it clean with clean water, cut off dead leaves and pest- or disease-damaged leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a bottom hole), put a few beautiful river stones in the bottom of the bottle, move the treated Hoya seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the root system, add clean water, add flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a cool place.

(3) Management: First, spray the leaves with clean water once a day, and after one or two days spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days; second, change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water; third, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the head of the Hoya, half a milliliter each time, and then inject once a month thereafter, to promote growth, flowering, and extend the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers wither, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can bloom again.

There is a big difference between flower water culture and hydroponics

In recent years, some water-cultured and hydroponic flowers have been favored by people because they are fresh and environmentally friendly, elegant in style, easy to maintain, and easy to combine. On the surface, the cultivation forms of water-cultured and hydroponic flowers are the same, namely liquid maintenance, so many people conflate the two. In fact, they are clearly different.

Flowers used for water culture generally have enlarged bulbs, which store rich nutrients. Their growth and flowering mainly rely on the nutrients stored in themselves. During cultivation, it is only necessary to soak the root system in clean water and fix it in place, with no need to supply nutrients. Flowers suitable for water culture mainly include narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, lucky bamboo, and so on. To make water-cultured flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom beautifully, the key is to choose fully developed bulbs to provide the nutrients needed for their growth process; second, change the water frequently, insisting on changing the water once every 2-3 days (change the water once every 7-10 days for lucky bamboo), maintaining sufficient oxygen content in the water and improving root activity; third, maintain sufficient sunlight to allow robust growth.

Hydroponic flowers, by contrast, have the plant roots fixed on the cover plate or floating board of a flower pot, with the root system soaked in water, and the water must be equipped with reasonable inorganic nutrients. Therefore, flower hydroponics is also called nutrient solution culture. The habits and internal structure of plants suitable for hydroponics are all suited to normal growth in water. At present, the main cultivated varieties include Clivia, spider plant, crab claw orchid, Brazilian wood, Chinese evergreen, clustered Philodendron, Monstera deliciosa, jade plant, inch plant, Bryophyllum, and other plants.

Northeastern University in China adopted bioengineering mutation technology, and after 8 years of effort has developed 9 series and more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; including both cactus and succulent plants, and flowering flowers such as Clivia and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as bromeliads, anthurium, and Hippeastrum, have also successfully achieved hydroponics. Some flowers with Chinese characteristics, such as tiger tongue orchid, have also achieved hydroponic domestication.

In truly well-mutated hydroponic flower plants, the characteristics of the root system have already changed. Root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertically growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-cultured plants, which are distributed in a network. After aquatic mutation, the plant's water root genes are expressed, so the leaves of truly aquatic flower plants will become larger and thicker, and the leaves and branches will be more tender and fresh than those grown in soil.

The key to hydroponic flowers is to prepare the nutrient solution well. When preparing the nutrient solution, never use metal containers or containers that have held grease, acids, or alkalis. When using tap water to prepare nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat chlorides and sulfides in the water. For hydroponic flowers, add or replace the nutrient solution once a week, and note to control the pH value between 5.5 and 6.5. The replaced nutrient solution can be used as fertilizer for other crops.

Brief introduction to flower hydroponic technology

Flower hydroponics is a common type of soilless cultivation. There are many methods, and several commonly used ones are briefly described below.

Deep flow technique: The characteristic is that the plant root system is wholly or partly immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution is flowing; the nutrient solution is mixed with air to dissolve oxygen.

Nutrient film (NFT) technique: Nutrient film technique was developed from plastic bag technique. A suitable amount of nutrient solution is put into a plastic bag to cultivate plants. On this basis, further improvement was made: the plastic bag was changed to plastic film and laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution is a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution, and part is exposed to moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film is white outside and black inside to wrap the plant, forming an internal dark space.

Its advantages are: it better solves the root system's demand for oxygen for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, and the cost is low; plants grow quickly, are easy to manage, and it is suitable for large-scale production.

Aeroponics technique: After the nutrient solution is atomized, it is sprayed around the plant root system. The mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the root system. The roots are continuously or discontinuously in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problem of water, nutrient, and oxygen supply, and plants grow quickly. Aeroponics can also be used when rooting cuttings.

Glass bottle hydroponic technique: For the aqueous solution, a glass canning jar can be used. Wrap the surroundings of the bottle with black plastic film, or coat it fully with black paint, or paste a layer of black paper, to the degree that the inside of the bottle is not light-transmitting. Light blocking is beneficial to root growth and avoids algae growth. In summer, wrap the outside of the black bottle with a layer of white paper to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the bottle cap, cut a hole in the middle, clamp the plant, cover the bottle cap, and the top of the cap should also be black. Inject nutrient solution into the bottle, not too full, and leave a gap to give the plant oxygen for respiration. If it is water cuttings to promote rooting, then nutrient solution is not necessary; just add water, and after roots grow, change to nutrient solution. Specific operation process:

Changing solution: For small seedlings, change the nutrient solution once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For mature flowers, change it once a week during the peak growth period in summer, and once every 1 to 2 weeks in non-growing seasons.

Ventilation: Open the bottle cap for a short time every morning and evening to fully expose the root system to the air. After a period of adaptation, ventilation can be omitted for more than a month continuously.

Adding water: Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so water should often be added to the bottle to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.

Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution: Fertilizer tablets sold on the market or prepared chemical fertilizers can be used. If conditions permit, you can prepare it yourself. The formulas are as follows:

Formula 1: (pH value 6-6.5)

Monopotassium phosphate 0.44 g/L; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/L; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/L; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Formula 2: (pH value 6-65)

Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/L; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; monopotassium phosphate 0.27 g/L; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Trace element solution preparation method:

Boric acid 2.86 grams, zinc oxide 0.11 grams, manganese chloride 181 grams, copper dichloride 0.05 grams, sodium molybdate 0.025 grams. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 milliliters of water, then make up to 1000 milliliters.

Multiple Methods of Hydroponic Flower Growing

① Water cutting method: This is the simplest and most easily successful method. Cut a portion of the stem or branch from a selected mother plant, insert it into water, and under suitable conditions it will root, sprout and grow into a new plant. When cutting branches, make the cut 3-5 millimeters below the node, with a flat cut surface and no longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches with aerial roots, protect the aerial roots well and insert them into the water. Golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana) and others are all suitable for this hydroponic method.

② Root washing method: Select ornamental flowers that are robust in growth and already established in soil cultivation (or other media cultivation), remove the soil, wash the root system and switch to hydroponics. It is best to use running water when washing the roots. After washing, plant the flowers in a prepared container and add tap water to cover 2/3-1/2 of the root system. At first, change the clean water every day, while also washing the roots and container. After one week, reduce the frequency of water changes. Once the cultivated flowers grow new roots in the water, it indicates they have adapted to the hydroponic environment, and you can change the water every 7-10 days or even longer.

③ Tiller stripping method: Suitable for flowers with strong tillering ability, such as clivia (Clivia miniata) and bromeliads. The method is simple and the survival rate is high. Select a larger tiller, remove the upper soil to expose the connection point with the mother plant, and strip the tiller from the mother plant by hand or with a sharp blade (protecting the tiller's roots), wash off the soil attached to the roots, and cultivate hydroponically.

④ Runner plantlet removal method: Some flowers produce runners during growth, and the runners bear one to many small plantlets, most of which have a small amount of fully developed roots. Spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum) and pineapple plants (bromeliads) both have this characteristic. Taking advantage of this feature, removing the formed small plantlets for hydroponics is very simple and convenient.

For hydroponic flowers, it is advisable to choose Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), clivia (Clivia miniata), golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum), air plant (Tillandsia), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), purple-backed oyster plant (Tradescantia spathacea), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), and bulbous flowers such as tulips, lilies, hyacinths, amaryllis (Hippeastrum), and gladiolus.

Guide to the Difficulties of Summer Care for Hydroponic Flowers

I. What are the difficulties of getting hydroponic flowers through the summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are ornamental plants grown in non-solid media (water or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution added). At present, most household hydroponic flowers are grown in still water, with dissolved oxygen below 1 mg/l, and the flowers barely sustain life in an oxygen-deficient container. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism becomes vigorous, microorganisms multiply in large numbers, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and water quality deteriorates, creating many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers. This may cause root rot, wilting of branches and leaves, and even the death of the entire plant. Therefore, in summer, in addition to preventing extreme heat, increasing the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring that hydroponic flowers safely pass through the summer.

Water-grown silver-edged grass

II. How can the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution be increased?

Answer: There are many ways to increase dissolved oxygen, which can be summarized into two categories: chemical methods and physical methods. The following introduces several methods that are easy to operate and effective.

1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution

Replacing the nutrient solution is the simplest way to increase dissolved oxygen. According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70%-90% compared with the original solution, which can promptly improve the physiological oxygen deficiency of flowers.

For flowers that have already grown water roots, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution every 3-5 days, and no more than 7 days. When changing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large, as too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorders in the flower root system.

When changing the solution, patiently rinse the root system with clean water, remove withered and rotten roots, and shorten aged roots to promote new root growth.

If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid, or mosquito egg clusters or mosquito larvae breed in it, the nutrient solution should be replaced with new solution immediately.

2. Oxygenation by vibration

For hydroponic flowers in smaller containers, as long as the root system is clear and undamaged and the nutrient solution is transparent, the vibration method can be used to increase oxygen. The operation method is to hold the flower with one hand and grip the container with the other hand, gently shaking it more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.

For hydroponic flowers with turbid nutrient solution or poorly developed root systems, the vibration oxygenation method should not be used, and the nutrient solution must be completely replaced.

3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers

According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/l, while in still water it is only 1 mg/l. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers is designed and made according to this principle. The entire frame is the flower cultivation container, with a micro circulation pump installed inside. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipeline. During operation, the nutrient solution circulates through the pipeline, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, the root system maintains a certain liquid level. Cultivating with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly like soaking hydroponic flowers in an "oxygen bar," and their growth is noticeably better than in still water hydroponics.

The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers is generally cleaned and has its solution changed once every 30-35 days.

4. Aerate into the container

If while cultivating hydroponic flowers there is also a tank of ornamental fish nearby, you can use the spare air outlet tube of the fish tank air pump, connect a rubber tube, and put the air stone into the still-water hydroponic flower container for aeration (the airflow should not be too strong, to avoid splashing the nutrient solution out), using the flow of air to increase oxygen, and the effect is also quite good.

III. What position is suitable for placing hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: The flower materials selected for hydroponic flowers are mostly shade-tolerant foliage flowers and flowers valued for both flowers and leaves, such as arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), white jade evergreen (Aglaonema), silver bract taro (Spathiphyllum), flamingo flower (Anthurium), and bromeliads. These flowers prefer warmth and humidity, are slightly shade-tolerant, and dislike high temperatures and dry heat. "Hydroponics" only changes the cultivation form; it cannot change their growth habits and required environmental factors. In summer, it is best to place hydroponic flowers in an environment with bright light, slightly higher humidity, cooler temperatures, and good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but do not place them in too much shade either, lest photosynthesis be hindered, growth weaken, stem nodes elongate, and leaves become thinner. This can cause leaves of flowers with colored patches and patterns to lose their luster.

IV. Can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?

Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly facing the air outlet of the air conditioner. Too fast wind speed can damage branches and leaves, causing leaves to curl in mild cases and scorched edges and wilting in severe cases. Also consider that flowers require higher temperatures during the day than at night. If the air conditioner is turned off at night and the ambient temperature is higher than the daytime temperature when the air conditioner is on, this is unfavorable for the growth of hydroponic flowers.

When the air conditioner is on, place a basin of clean water beside the flowers or spray the leaf surface to increase ambient humidity. If the flowers are placed farther from the air conditioner outlet and the day-night temperature difference is not large, there is no problem.

V. What should be done if hydroponic flowers develop root rot?

Answer: As the temperature continuously rises, the water temperature also rises, microbial growth accelerates, dissolved oxygen decreases, and water quality deteriorates. Improperly adding nutrient solution, causing the dissolved concentration to be too high, may also cause root rot in hydroponic flowers, especially in Dracaena (Cordyline fruticosa) of the Liliaceae family, dragon tree (Dracaena marginata, fine-leaved dragon tree), and rainbow dragon tree (Dracaena concinna).

The following methods can help rotten-rooted flowers recover their growth:

① Remove all rotten roots. If the stem has already been infected, also use a sharp knife to cut off the infected part.

② Soak the pruned flowers in 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10-20 minutes for sterilization.

③ Remove the soaked flowers and rinse them under running water.

④ Place the washed flowers back into the original container and cultivate them in clean water (the container should be washed clean).

⑤ Change the water every 1-2 days, using only clean water without adding nutrient solution. If the water quality is clear, the frequency of water changes can be reduced. After 10-15 days of care, new roots can sprout.

⑥ Newly sprouted roots should still be cultivated in clean water. Wait until the temperature stabilizes at 18-25°C, then cultivate with nutrient solution.

VI. What should be done if algae grow in the nutrient solution?

Answer: Algae growth in the nutrient solution is a common phenomenon during the cultivation of hydroponic flowers. Especially in summer, when temperatures are high, the container is transparent, the environment is bright, or the time between nutrient solution changes is too long, algae will proliferate in large numbers. Algae compete with flowers for oxygen, and their secretions pollute the solution, degrading the quality of the nutrient solution. Algae attached to the flower root system hinder root respiration and interfere with the normal physiological activities of the flowers, causing great harm.

Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, decisively pour out the polluted solution, thoroughly clean the container, brush off the algae attached to the root system, and replace with new nutrient solution.

At present, Chinese scientists are researching a kind of "algae-eating insect" that can filter-feed on algae, called a natural "nemesis" of algae damage. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, adding a small amount of "algae-eating insects" to the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can prevent algae from growing.

Algae reproduction depends on relatively good light. Using a baffle or old newspaper to shade the hydroponic flower container and avoid direct strong light will relatively reduce the chances of algae growth.

VII. What fertilizer should be used for hydroponic flowers? How should fertilizer be applied in summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special cultivation form, belonging to soilless cultivation. The flower root system is anchored in water (or a dedicated plant nutrient solution), also called nutrient solution cultivation.

Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with a matching plant nutrient solution. However, different flowers require different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If cultivating five or six bottles or even a dozen bottles of hydroponic flowers at the same time, with different varieties, it is unrealistic to buy a matching bottle of plant nutrient solution for each flower. For simplicity, a general-purpose plant nutrient solution can be chosen.

General-purpose plant nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including macroelements and microelements), with a balanced ratio of various elements, inorganic salts in ionic form, a wide range of applications, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages, non-toxic, harmless, with pH value and ion concentration favorable for nutrient absorption.

There are many types of plant nutrient solutions sold on the market, with varying quality. It is best to go to a specialized hydroponic flower shop and choose products from manufacturers with good reputations.

There are differing views on whether to use nutrient solution cultivation or only clean water cultivation in summer. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are relatively heat-tolerant and robust in growth, use nutrient solution cultivation; for flowers with fine roots that are in semi-dormancy or dormancy at temperatures around 30°C, use only clean water cultivation. For example, silver bract taro (Spathiphyllum), golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum), mini Swiss cheese plant (Monstera), red gem (Philodendron), and Philodendron species are suitable for nutrient solution cultivation to maintain growth advantages and enhance ornamental quality. For coleus (Coleus), bamboo begonia (Begonia maculata), and bromeliads, a bottle of clean water is enough for them to safely pass the summer.

When mixing nutrient solution, strictly follow the proportions indicated in the instructions, and do not arbitrarily increase the concentration. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers that sprout roots in hydroponic conditions has changed, being looser than soil cultivation with larger cells. The cell walls become thinner, directly absorbing water, nutrients and oxygen from the nutrient solution, and are extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution. Too high a concentration is harmful to flowers. As long as the concentration of macroelements is not lower than the level of micromoles per 1 liter, a lower concentration is beneficial for flower growth.

In summer, it is advisable to replace the nutrient solution every 5 days.

VIII. Can soil-cultivated flowers be converted to hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Converting soil-cultivated flowers to hydroponic flowers is most suitable in spring and autumn, when the temperature is around 15-25°C, suitable for flower growth, and they easily adapt to the changed cultivation environment. To change the cultivation form of flowers in summer, the following factors should be considered: ① Select species that are more closely related to wetland flowers. ② Flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at temperatures around 30°C. Experiments have shown that Araceae plants such as arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), mini Swiss cheese plant (Monstera), red gem Philodendron (Philodendron), green giant (Philodendron), golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum), and some bromeliad flowers have a relatively high survival rate when converted from soil cultivation to hydroponics in summer. They adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, and their roots rarely rot. After 15-20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from old roots, but water roots can also sprout from the root stem ends.

When converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics, the soil around the flower roots should be cleaned off. Rinse repeatedly, protecting the root system from damage as much as possible or minimizing it. Use a larger-capacity container for cultivation, change the water once a day. After five days, change the water every 2-3 days. When the water roots grow to 5 centimeters long, cultivate with low-concentration plant nutrient solution.

Hydroponic Method for Lucky Bamboo

Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as Wan Shou Zhu, native to Brazil and western Africa.

Characteristics

Evergreen shrub. The plant form is slender and upright, unbranched. Leaves are long lanceolate, deep green, with sheath-like petioles. Common varieties include golden-edged lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), whose leaves have yellow longitudinal stripes. Silver-edged lucky bamboo, also known as edged bamboo banana, is a smaller plant with silver-white longitudinal stripes on the leaf edges.

Habits

Prefers high temperatures and high humidity. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 10°C. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, otherwise it will cause leaf scorching.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: When the air is too dry, it will cause leaf scorching. During the growing season, water should be sprayed on the leaf surface frequently.

2: Suitable for ample scattered light. When light is insufficient, the color of striped varieties will fade.

Hydroponic Method for Anthurium

Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as Anzu flower, lampstand flower

Characteristics

Perennial evergreen herb. Internodes are short, and leaves grow from the base of the plant. Leaves are round-cordate or ovate, dark green. Flower stalks grow from leaf axils. The spathe is upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet, with a yellow spadix extending straight.

Habits

Prefers high temperatures, high humidity, and a semi-shaded environment. Avoid direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and overwintering should be above 10°C.

Propagation

Division, tissue culture.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Not cold-tolerant. In winter, heating and warmth must be provided.

2: Prefers relatively high air humidity and a semi-shaded environment.

Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials

Use the potted root washing method

Hydroponic Method for Azalea

The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used solid substrate for soilless cultivation of azaleas and obtained very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea (Rhododendron). The soilless-cultivated plants had compact crown structure, more flowers; larger flower diameter, and fewer pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality, but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor, and is a cultivation method worth vigorously promoting.

1. Substrate preparation

Azalea roots are very fine and require loose substrate to facilitate aeration and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder mixed in proportion. After mixing the substrate, sterilize it with 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse multiple times with clean water, and after drying, mix evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, then cover with plastic film for one month before use in pots.

2. Nutrient solution preparation

Azaleas have relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing season, apply thin fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling pH at around 5, and spraying low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.

Preparation of macroelements: Add 2 grams of agricultural compound fertilizer to 1 liter of water, plus 0.5 grams of magnesium sulfate, as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: Add 20 grams of disodium EDTA, 15 grams of ferrous sulfate, 4 grams of manganese sulfate, 6 grams of boric acid, 0.2 grams of zinc sulfate, 0.1 grams of copper sulfate, and 0.2 grams of ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the mother solution. When using, add 1 milliliter of trace element mother solution to 1 liter of standard solution to make the full-strength element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: Add 1 gram of urea, 1 gram of monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 grams of boric acid, and 0.1 grams of V.B1 to 1 liter of water.

3. Water and fertilizer management

Because the substrate has good drainage and aeration, but poor water retention, the watering amount is generally more than soil cultivation, just enough to keep the substrate moist. At this time, it is during bud formation and leaf bud sprouting, requiring a relatively large amount of fertilizer, so apply full-strength nutrient solution about once every 10 days. From March until the flower buds break, spray foliar fertilizer about once every 15 days. After flowering, the water requirement is large. In addition to daily watering, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, the fertilizer requirement is also large, so it can be changed to applying nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote sturdy new branches and facilitate flower bud differentiation. After the dog days begin, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and spray water on the leaves. The fertilizer application can be reduced to applying nutrient solution about once every 20 days. After the weather cools in autumn, gradually increase the fertilizer amount, apply full-strength nutrient solution about once every half month, and spray foliar fertilizer 1-2 times to promote healthy flower bud growth. After winter begins, the physiological activity of azaleas is weak, so fertilization is not suitable; just water appropriately depending on the dryness of the substrate. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.

Hydroponic Method for Broadleaf Lady Palm

Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as Guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan and other places.

Characteristics

Evergreen clumping shrub. Stems are cylindrical, unbranched, with nodes like bamboo, covered with brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, like palm fiber. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, leathery, deep green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4-10 segments. Dioecious.

Habits

Prefers warm, shady and humid environments with good ventilation. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C. In winter it should be kept above 4°C, and it can tolerate short-term low temperatures around 0°C.

Propagation

Generally carried out by division combined with repotting. Select large, dense clumps, first take the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, cut as few roots as possible, and keep the divided plants with a certain plant shape, then repot them. After watering thoroughly, place them in a semi-shaded, humid place, and frequently spray water on the leaves. After growth resumes, they can enter normal maintenance.

Sowing: after the seeds mature in autumn, sow them in pots immediately after collection. Move them into a greenhouse in winter, and seedlings emerge the following spring.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Shade-tolerant, but when light is too weak it is prone to yellow leaves, and when ventilation is poor it breeds parasitic insects.

2: During the growing season, water should be sprayed on the leaf surface frequently.

Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials

Potted root washing is suitable. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard in texture and not easy to rot after hydroponics, but new roots sprout relatively slowly, requiring as long as one and a half months.

Hydroponic Method for Purple Velvet Plant

Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.

Characteristics

Purple velvet plant is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick, many-branched stems. Leaves are opposite, long ovate. Leaf margins have relatively coarse double serrations. It is named for its stems and leaves densely covered with goose-down-like purplish-red fine hairs. The purple velvet plant has bright colors and is beautiful and elegant, making it an excellent flower type for indoor cultivation.

Habits

Purple velvet plant likes ample sunlight, but during high temperatures in summer and autumn, it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment. Direct sunlight will cause leaf scorching due to sunburn, but when too shaded, the plant will fade and turn green. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 10°C.

Propagation

Purple velvet plant is propagated by cuttings. During the growing season, select thick, strong branches, cut 10-centimeter-long shoot tips as cuttings, and after cuttings are inserted, place them in a shaded, humid place. They can root in 2-3 weeks. After the cuttings grow, pinch the tips in time to promote lateral branch sprouting.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Branches can be cut and inserted into water, and water roots can grow in just over 10 days. But during high temperatures in summer, root rot is easy to occur.

2: Purple velvet plant grows rapidly. When the branches reach an appropriate height, pinch the tips in time to promote new shoot growth.

Hydroponic Method for Parlor Palm

Palmae, Chamaedorea genus, also known as dwarf coconut, etc. Native to Mexico and Venezuela.

Characteristics

Evergreen small tree, with a short plant form. The stem is slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring markings. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, pinnately compound, with 20-40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green, and glossy.

Habits

Prefers a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C. At 13°C it enters dormancy. The minimum winter overwintering temperature is 3°C.

Key Points for Hydroponic Care

1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn dry and yellow, but when it is too shady, the leaf color will also fade.

2: The chamaedorea elegans looks most beautiful when the plant is 30-50 cm tall. When the plant is too tall, the lower part becomes bare and the ornamental value is reduced. When growing it, small plants can be cultivated below.

Obtaining Hydroponic Material

Use the potted root-washing method. After washing with water, new roots will grow in just a few days.

Hydroponic Method for Cactus

We know that cacti are favored by people for their unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance, but because cacti use traditional cultivation methods, they have problems with being dirty and difficult to manage. More people kill their beloved plants because they cannot properly manage fertilizer and water. Now cactus cultivation has entered a new stage: hydroponics.

1: Selecting the mother plant

First we must select a cactus with a sturdy body. The key is to choose a plant whose lower root-stem section protrudes downward. Cacti grafted and cultivated with three-angled stems are more easily grown hydroponically.

2: Treatment

After selecting the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots under the body, requiring the cut surface to be flat. Then rinse the soil attached to the root-stem section clean with water, and dry it in a dry place for 3 days so that the cut is completely dry.

3: Hydroponics

Prepare a glass bottle of suitable size, or process a mineral water bottle. Fix the selected and treated cactus at the mouth of the bottle with floral foam or foam, then add nutrient solution below, with the height of the nutrient solution just reaching the root-stem section. In production, we recommend making a glass water trough 60-100 cm long and 20 cm wide (a transparent container makes it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root-stem section). Prepare a child's foam puzzle board or a white construction foam board, and use a sharp knife to dig several small triangular holes in the board (for fixing the golden barrel cactus, you can cut off the mouth part of a waste purified water bottle and use it upside down; note: you must cut off the bottle mouth so that the roots of the golden barrel cactus can be exposed from the cut bottle mouth, then place it in a flat container with nutrient solution). Insert the three-angled stems into the triangular holes; at this time all the roots of the three-angled stems just contact the liquid surface.

4. Later-stage hydroponic treatment

Purchase two magnets with a diameter of 6-10 cm and put them into the container, in order to magnetize the nutrient solution and thereby speed up the emergence of water roots. (You can also buy from the market a small wall-mounted submersible pump specially used for ecological fish tanks, attach it to the inner wall of the nutrient solution, and turn on the power to achieve a flowing, oxygen-carrying circulation of the nutrient solution.)

5: Key points for hydroponic care

Place the planted cactus in an environment with relatively strong scattered light, keep the temperature above 20 degrees, and generally water roots will emerge in 3-7 days. Immediately replace the nutrient solution after water roots appear.

Note:

During the induction process of the cactus, it is strictly forbidden to spray water on the body, as it can easily cause the body to rot and die.

What should be noted when growing clivia hydroponically at home

Hydroponic clivia is a clean and simple cultivation method. When cultivating at home, note the following:

① Container selection. The bottom of the cultivation container should have no holes, and transparent ones are preferable, so that you can enjoy the leaves, flowers, and roots. You can use a glass bottle, or a non-toxic plastic bottle or ceramic container. The size of the container depends on the size of the plant, and the mouth should not be too large.

② The cultivation solution. It can be nutrient solution or clean water, but when using clean water for cultivation, note that foliar fertilization is needed to supply the nutrients required for clivia growth.

③ Changing the solution. Hydroponic clivia needs regular solution changes. The number of changes depends on the weather. When the temperature is lower, it can be changed about once every 1 month; when the temperature is higher, it can be changed once every 10 days. When changing the solution, be careful to wash the cultivation container clean.

How to scientifically grow amaryllis hydroponically

In early winter, choose one or several large amaryllis bulbs that have bloomed or have not yet bloomed, cut off all roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal white and green, and soak them in clean water. After about 48 hours, take the bulbs out, wash off the paste-like substance at the cuts with clean water, dry them in the shade, and place them in a flower vessel. The flower vessel can be a bowl, basin, or narcissus pot, etc. Put in washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing mountain stones, etc., then place the treated amaryllis bulbs. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if using tap water, it must have been left standing for several days). The depth of the water should be enough to cover the small stones and other filling materials, or about 1 cm below the upper rim of the flower vessel. Finally, place it in a place indoors with sufficient light. Keep the room temperature at about 10°C, and in about 7-10 days leaves will begin to grow and roots will develop. The water in the pot should always be kept at the original water level line. When the leaves grow to 2-3 cm, fertilizer must be supplemented in time. Every 10-20 days, when adding water, add an appropriate amount of 1% urea solution or 0.03% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution or other compound fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulbs with roots into flower pots for routine care. In this way, the hydroponically treated bulbs will bloom slightly later than other conventionally potted amaryllis, just in time for the summer flowering period when flowers are scarce.

Technical Management of Hydroponics

1. What is hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics, also called soilless cultivation or nutrient solution cultivation, is an agricultural production technique that uses nutrient solution and supporting facilities instead of soil to cultivate crops. In order to fix the plants and increase air content, most hydroponic plants also use inert sand, gravel, peat, perlite, etc. as solid substrates, so it is also called sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, etc.
Since humans have had a history of planting, crops have been grown in soil, so the English word agriculture is Agrculfure, formed from Agr (soil) and Culture (cultivation). In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used 3 different kinds of water, namely rainwater, river water, and garden soil leachate, to grow mint. As a result, the mint grown in garden soil leachate grew fastest, thus concluding that "plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil." Unfortunately, due to the technical limitations at the time, Woodward did not conduct further research. It was not until 1859-1865 that the German scientists Sachs and Knop first conducted precise experiments in soilless cultivation. They succeeded in cultivating plants with an artificial nutrient solution made from inorganic salts, and they called this method hydroponics. Sachs and Knop are therefore recognized as the founders of soilless cultivation technology.

◆2. What are hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are flowers grown using soilless cultivation technology. Hydroponic flowers are further divided into hydroponic flowers with media and hydroponic flowers without media. Hydroponics with media refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc. mentioned earlier; hydroponic flowers without media are further divided into direct hydroponic flowers, floating hydroponic flowers, planting basket hydroponic flowers, misting hydroponic flowers, nutrient film drip irrigation, and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its advantages and disadvantages, but if measured only by beauty, durability, and suitability for home cultivation, direct hydroponics is the most stylish, beautiful, and simple, so the hydroponic plants currently sold on the market are generally in the direct hydroponic form.

◆3. Why is nutrient solution the key to the success of hydroponic flowers?
Answer: We all know that under greenhouse conditions, when inert substrates are used as the medium, soilless cultivation is already a very simple and mature technology, because there are computers to timely control humidity, temperature, light intensity, nutrient solution injection time, etc., and there are specialized technicians using pH meters, conductivity meters, etc. to timely test the pH of the nutrient solution and the balance of each element. But in a home environment, these conditions are very difficult to achieve. First, if hydroponic flowers placed in the home still use substrate cultivation, then there is no difference in beauty from soil cultivation, so home hydroponic flowers should be soilless cultivation without media. Without media, plants are very prone to root rot and odor; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants not to rot roots, not to emit odor, not to have a strange smell, and still grow normally when lacking oxygen. In addition, the hygiene needs of the home require that the nutrient solution should not easily breed mosquitoes and insects and must be non-toxic. Moreover, home lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, which requires that the nutrient solution can lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis so that it can also grow well in office and home environments. What is more, it is impossible to require every user to have specialized botanical knowledge like a botany expert, so the nutrient solution must also be convenient to use, easy to operate, and easy for anyone to learn. Therefore, hydroponic flowers suitable for home cultivation have higher technical requirements for the nutrient solution.
Since humans mastered soilless cultivation technology, scientists have successfully researched no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but formulas that simultaneously meet the above requirements are very rare; moreover, due to commercial interests, major flower companies regard their own nutrient solution technology as their top secret technology, so the nutrient solution formulas that can be obtained from public materials are only theoretical or experimental formulas, which can only serve as reference materials and cannot be used in production activities. In fact, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home environment use can be known with just one try. You only need to see whether the displayed plants grow vigorously and whether water roots are growing, because as the saying goes: "Practice is the only criterion for testing truth!"

◆4. How can hydroponic flowers safely overwinter?
Answer: Generally, flowers go dormant below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and tissues will necrose below 0 degrees Celsius. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, the indoor temperature in winter generally does not fall below 5 degrees Celsius. If there are a few days of extreme low-temperature weather, it can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; in the north, because most indoors have heating, it can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.

◆5. Can hydroponic flowers only cultivate certain specific flowers?
Answer: In modern greenhouses, generally speaking, the common popular flowers we see can all be grown hydroponically. But in a home environment, because certain specific conditions cannot be met, at present only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be cultivated. In homes with balconies, the suitable varieties are somewhat more numerous.

◆6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in hydroponic flowers? How should water changes and usual feeding be handled?
Answer: Because the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Each of our specialty stores has samples of fish raised in hydroponic flowers, precisely to tell customers this information.
Generally speaking, hydroponic flowers with a volume of more than one liter are suitable for raising fish, and because the volume is limited, fish species should also be selected accordingly. Fish species with relatively strong adaptability should be chosen, such as goldfish and small koi. Fish with strong aggressiveness or destructiveness are also not suitable for raising in hydroponic flowers, because they will damage plant roots; and some delicate fish are also not suitable, because even raising them in specialized aquariums is difficult to succeed, let alone in a relatively poor-condition small vase. Changing the water can be done at the same time as the normal water change for the flowers. Feeding is the same as when we normally raise fish in a fish tank, with no difference.
Because the special substances in the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of water, which is beneficial to the respiration of plant roots, fish generally will not lack oxygen in the nutrient solution, so on days that are not especially hot there is no need to install oxygenation equipment.

◆7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic Flower King nutrient solution is a highly concentrated liquid and must be diluted before use; when diluting, tap water can generally fully meet the requirements, and there is absolutely no need to use bottled water or purified water. If well water or river water is used, a water quality test should be conducted to understand the mineral content composition in the water. If the content of a certain mineral in the water exceeds the standard, the nutrient solution formula should be adjusted to facilitate the normal growth of plants.
During the dilution process, tap water can be used directly to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine in the water to evaporate, because the unique formula in Hydroponic Flower King will cause the chlorine in tap water to evaporate quickly. However, if the water temperature and room temperature differ too much, the diluted nutrient solution should be left standing indoors for a period of time to prevent the plant roots from being damaged at the root hairs due to a sudden temperature change, causing the plant to wilt.

◆8. What is planting basket hydroponics?
Answer: Planting basket hydroponics is a hydroponic cultivation method that uses the principle of plant root hydrotropism. The principle of hydrotropism is that the root tips of plants always grow toward the direction with sufficient water. This is shown when the surface soil of a plant lacks water; in order to protect itself, the plant's root tips will grow deeper into the soil to absorb the water needed for the plant's growth and development and adapt to natural changes. At this time, root growth has a very obvious directionality; while plants growing in swamps or water, because they do not lack water, have messy root growth with no obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, with the bottom not needing to directly contact the water, with a gap of about 1-2 cm, and do not water the bonsai but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week, the phenomenon of roots growing toward the water will appear at the bottom of the bonsai. At this time you do not need to add water; let its roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops; if you use some fast-growing plants for the experiment, the effect will be even more obvious. Similarly, take a bonsai that has already grown water roots, remove it from the pot, and fix the plant with a planting basket, embellish it with stones or decorations, and it becomes a pot of planting basket hydroponic flowers. The difference is that at this time, because there is no soil, you need to replace the clean water with nutrient solution. It is just that simple.

◆9. Why do hydroponic flowers need water changes?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution will become fewer and fewer. At the same time, because of root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water will become more and more numerous, so hydroponic flowers need to be given new nutrient solution after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers. Soil-cultivated flowers need fertilization and also need to change the soil once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the water-change interval should be shorter during the vigorously growing spring and summer, and can be longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

◆10. Why do hydroponic flowers sometimes become weaker and weaker or grow poorly?
Answer: It may be caused by too long a solution-change interval, an incorrect nutrient solution ratio (too dilute or too concentrated), or light that is too weak. If these factors are ruled out, then see whether the nutrient solution water level is too high, preventing the plant roots from breathing normally and causing oxygen deficiency; if none of these are the case, then we suggest you had better go to a Hydroponic Flower King specialty store for consultation.

Exposing the Hydroponic Flower Market -- Distinguishing True from False Hydroponic Flowers

At present, many companies are developing franchises for hydroponic flower shops, causing a great commotion across the country. In particular, a company in Beijing has franchise stores that will spread throughout the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to express many opinions, but in order to safeguard the healthy development of our country's hydroponic flowers, after witnessing everything I cannot help but complain a little. Because the scams involved not only harm consumers' interests but will also cast a shadow over the hydroponic industry. At present, during the low-temperature season, plant respiration is weak. After washing the roots and soaking the plants directly in water, they can be kept in water for a period of time. Plants with strong flooding tolerance, such as Araceae plants, can be kept in water for 1-2 months. But once the weather turns hot, plant physiological respiration becomes strong, and oxygen deficiency and root rot will immediately occur. A hydroponic work that costs tens or hundreds to buy and take home is only a fleeting show. It not only harms consumers' interests but will also greatly affect the development of the hydroponic industry. Now I use a scientific perspective to reveal the "deception tactics" involved.

1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. Once winter comes, these plants slow their growth rate and their respiration weakens. In addition, Araceae plants are relatively closely related to aquatic plants and have strong flooding tolerance. After root washing and direct soaking in water, no discomfort can be seen from the plant for a while, but it is impossible for them to grow vigorously in water. They can only maintain the balance of water metabolism, while nutrient absorption and respiratory function are severely blocked. Once the weather turns hot, the root system will suffer oxygen deficiency, become smelly, and rot. For other plants with somewhat stronger terrestrial habits, this method simply cannot work, so this is the main reason they currently can only use Araceae plants to "deceive." Their so-called induction liquid, I think it would be better and more honest to call "deception liquid." It is fundamentally impossible for plants to undergo changes in tissue structure within a few minutes.

2. Charging high franchise fees for franchise sales is itself a kind of commercial hype. If the goods are genuine and the price is fair, there is nothing to criticize. If the technology is unique, it can also monopolize the market and truly have the meaning of franchising. But the current kind of franchising can be said to be swindling money. First, the technology has no scientific or technological content at all; it is just root washing and soaking in water, which even a fool can see through at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, hydroponic technology itself has undergone decades of development and is no longer a technology unique to a certain company. Using franchising simply cannot monopolize the market. Other hydroponic flower shops can also operate, and with better funding and more reliable technology than franchise stores. Once the franchise fee is paid, it is equivalent to being thrown away. Truly hydroponic flowers are not suitable for long-distance transportation. In fact, what they are selling now are all products made from soil-cultivated seedlings after root washing. It might be more accurate to call them bare-root flowers.

3. Tip: Araceae plants in late autumn, winter, and early spring, after root washing and soaking in water, can also be kept in water for a period of time. Everyone might as well give it a try; there is absolutely no need for deception liquid.

I have studied hydroponics for many years and have also inspected several countries with relatively developed hydroponic technology abroad. Our country's current hydroponic market can be said to be full of charlatans, with all kinds of things mixed together and the fake confusing the real. However, in the end these franchise scams will still be cleared out by history and science. I remind everyone to sharpen your eyes and not be induced by deception liquid.

How to Distinguish True from False Hydroponic Flowers

True and false hydroponic flowers are in fact the difference between induced flowers and non-induced flowers. At present, many hydroponic flower dealers do not understand hydroponic flowers from a scientific perspective. Starting only from the angle of commercial hype and personal profit, they pass off some conventional soil-cultivated plants as hydroponic plants for sale, fooling consumers and causing very bad social effects. After some citizens buy them at high prices, the plants die from physiological discomfort after being kept for only a short time, seriously hindering the healthy development of the hydroponic flower industry. In response to this problem, buyers can distinguish true from false in the following aspects to avoid being cheated.

A. Judge true from false by root morphology: Hydroponic flowers that have undergone induction usually exist in the form of fibrous adventitious roots, and will not be like roots in soil with distinctions among taproots, lateral roots, capillary roots, and root hairs, that is, they will not exist in the state of multi-order branched secondary roots. Even if there is branching, it is also a small amount of branching roots based on fibrous adventitious roots. Few orders and a simple root structure are its most obvious characteristics. In addition, for some plants that originally had radicles, after induction the number of first-order adventitious roots increases significantly, that is, the root proportion is greatly increased, and the root system is numerous and developed, resembling a beard.

B. Judge true from false by root color: Water roots formed by aquatic induction mostly have the characteristics of being white, crisp, and tender. Even for some varieties that show their natural root color, their water roots are obviously lighter in color than land roots, such as yellowish-white, pale yellow, light brown, etc. This is related to the well-developed parenchyma tissue of water roots and the fact that cell walls have not undergone, or have undergone little, suberization and lignification thickening.

C. Judge true from false by root integrity: Roots that have undergone aquatic induction grow and differentiate anew starting from primary adventitious roots, and all of this is completed in the water environment, so they have root integrity. For some soil-cultivated plants, although they have been carefully rinsed, there are always slight injuries or serious residual roots. This root integrity is difficult for soil-washed seedlings to achieve.

D. Judge true from false by water clarity: Fake hydroponic works made from soil-washed seedlings, because the root system has not formed adaptability to water, under anaerobic conditions will discharge large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites due to anaerobic respiration, causing the water in the container to quickly become cloudy or deteriorate. Visually, it appears turbid and not clear, that is, the water quality deteriorates or becomes smelly, and then the root system rots until the seedlings die.

E. Leaf angle can also distinguish true from false: In particular, many herbaceous flowers that are extremely sensitive to ethylene, after induction, have leaf attachment angles that are obviously more flat than soil-washed seedlings grown in soil, that is, epinastic growth leads to increased angle, or even drooping.

Increasing the Dissolved Oxygen Content of Hydroponic Nutrient Solution

For hydroponic flowers, apart from the environmental factors of light, temperature, and humidity having exactly the same requirements as soil cultivation, the requirements for water, fertilizer, and oxygen are worlds apart in management -- Water: Home hydroponic flowers should use soft water as the water source. Generally, tap water that meets national standards can be used. Tap water has undergone filtration, sedimentation, and sterilization treatment, is clean and hygienic, and has a pH below 7, so it can be safely used for cultivating hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, pond water, and well water are polluted to varying degrees, are seriously eutrophic, and various ions may differ greatly. If one ion content exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage the plants or cause poisoning and death, so they are not suitable as a water source for hydroponic flowers. Fertilizer: Home hydroponic flowers must use a low-concentration special nutrient solution based mainly on nitrate nitrogen fertilizer. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth, with a balanced ratio of various elements. The inorganic salts are in ionic form, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and their various growth and development stages. They are also non-toxic, harmless, and have appropriate pH, which is beneficial to nutrient absorption. It is not advisable to crush soil fertilizer or granular chemical fertilizer and use it for hydroponic flowers. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on flowers, but long-term application will inevitably hinder normal physiological metabolism. It is even more impermissible to use organic fertilizer as the fertilizer source for hydroponic flowers. Diluted urine can be used for foliar spraying, but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: In home hydroponic flowers, the water (nutrient solution) is in a static state, and the dissolved oxygen is below /ppm/L. The flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient container, and their roots are often seen growing in reverse, extending toward the liquid surface in order to breathe more oxygen. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of the hydroponic nutrient solution is very necessary for the normal growth of flowers, and is especially important in summer. There are several simple and easy methods to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution. 2. Vibrate to increase oxygen: fix the flower plant with one hand, and gently shake the container with the other hand more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a micro submersible pump or an oxygen pump (both are standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution. Plant roots can obtain sufficient oxygen in such an environment, respiration is very vigorous, and the flowers are prompted to grow robustly.

See Through Fake Hydroponic Flower Technology at a Glance

For hydroponic flowers, the combination of flowers and fish, with the dynamic and static combined, is the first impression it gives. The earlier concept in China first sprouted at the turn of the 21st century (although the earliest people also grew some Araceae plants, lucky bamboo, and similar plants that are easy to keep in water, this concept does not belong to the currently popular "hydroponic flowers" concept!). It rose in 2003. Many enterprises and institutions with market vision turned one after another to preliminary research and planning work in this industry. In addition, with the broadcast of "Hydroponic Flowers" on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it became popular from 2004 to 2005. Hydroponic flowers can be said to have blossomed everywhere in China. There were those providing technical study and training, those producing at bases, and those opening franchise flower shops. Many fake hydroponic flower companies, enterprises, and individuals, stimulated by profit, put on shows in the market. On the one hand, they added fuel to the hype of the domestic hydroponic flower market concept, letting many citizens understand and recognize this newly born concept and product; on the other hand, many investors and operators became victims of this wave of market trends. As for 2006, the great wave washed away the sand. Those with their own technical core and production capacity, and with relatively strong economic strength and operational ability, could still remain in such a chaotic market tide. Those who could remain were very few. However, hydroponic flowers, as a fashionable flower product, represent a new trend and new current in the development of the flower industry. Driven by economic interests in the market economy, there are still a small number of speculators existing in the market!

The author has been in this line of work for three or four years and is relatively familiar with this industry. In view of the uneven quality of the current hydroponic flower market, this article provides a systematic analysis and summary, all to give the broad masses of citizens who love hydroponic flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the hydroponic flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding, for everyone's reference:

2. What are truly hydroponic flowers?

From a sensory point of view, using glass vases of various shapes, with plants and flowers grown on top (at present, the variety scope of hydroponic technology has been expanded to include other woody, vine, and succulent plants), and a few cute small fish raised below, these are hydroponic flowers (plants)! But from a technical level, truly hydroponic flowers refer to those cultivated and planted through various biological, physical, computer, and other technical means, causing the physiological traits of their root systems to change and developing water roots with plant aerenchyma tissue, and only after they can adapt to long-term cultivation in water can they become truly hydroponic flowers (plants)!

3. How to identify truly hydroponic flowers?

Judging from the senses:
Report on the Current Status of Hydroponic Flower Technology 1. Introduction:
For a successful truly hydroponic plant, the plant root system that has undergone induction and domestication should have roots that are white, elegant, and with many fibrous roots, very clearly different from soil-cultivated plants. The root systems of soil-cultivated plants are all relatively dark black in color! (Except for a small number of plants whose root systems have unique colors, such as red-flowered loropetalum, which after induction has roots, branches, and stem sections all dark red! There are also some plants whose roots, after soil removal, are also nearly white!)

In addition, if the plant's growth condition is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, it indicates that it was only just planted in the bottle not long ago and was placed there to deceive users! Even if it has undergone induction, it still cannot be sold as a commodity!

Judging from the technical level:

Judging from the technical level:

1) Does it possess a professional technical level?

If, as some merchants say, only the so-called "induction liquid," "domestication liquid," and "nutrient solution" are needed, and the plant is soaked in water for a few days or a few hours, and some even say hydroponic flowers can be achieved in just a few dozen minutes or a few minutes, this claim can only fool those who do not understand biotechnology. Those who understand biological principles all know that if the plant root system is severely oxygen-deficient in water, the roots will soon undergo anaerobic respiration, thereby fermenting and rotting. Therefore, a large amount of fermentation matter will accumulate in the bottle, mosquitoes and insects will grow, the water will be turbid and unclean, and the plant will soon die!
Only when the induction of plant water roots is truly realized, forming hydroponic plants with aerenchyma tissue that can adapt well to the low-oxygen state in water, can they truly be called hydroponic flowers. And the cultivation of water roots cannot be fully completed and realized by nutrient solution alone. It requires comprehensive biological, physical, computer, and other methods and means, and after a relatively long period of cultivation and complete adaptation to the water environment, can it become professional and truly hydroponic flowers!

2) Does it have relatively strong artistic combination level and ability?

Hydroponic flowers belong to mid-to-high-end consumption. Their ornamental value lies in: artistically designed combinations and arrangements. Each product lies in its artistic glass bottle container, beautiful plant shape, white and elegant root system, and the perfect combination and arrangement of ornaments such as fish and water plants in the bottle! Whether it is a professional hydroponic flower work, apart from the natural sensory aspect, a relatively strong artistic combination cannot be put together by an ordinary beginner! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether the manufacturer possesses such aesthetic level!

3) Does it have the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers and fixed supply channels?

Whether it has the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers can also show whether the merchant has the ability for professional hydroponic flower production. If there are neither fixed production facilities nor powerful and branded producers as supply sources, then such a hydroponic flower provider is very likely just making "hydroponic flowers" from soil-cultivated plants after root washing!

Checking from the varieties:

The hydroponic flower varieties that a truly professional hydroponic flower producer can produce are not limited to plants such as those in Araceae and Crassulaceae, such as Alocasia, Philodendron, lucky bamboo, Monstera, and Rohdea, which are themselves easy to keep in water. These plant varieties are themselves close to water and hydrophilic, and can generally be cultivated in water by ordinary methods. A professional producer should be able to achieve hydroponics for all kinds of woody plants and all kinds of water-fearing plants, such as sago palm, cactus, Pachira, Polyscias, and even Taxus, osmanthus, fruit trees, etc.! If the plant varieties a merchant can provide are single, then it is definitely not a professional hydroponic flower manufacturer!

Checking from time:

Time is the final and only criterion for testing hydroponic flowers. If they cannot adapt to long-term cultivation in water and are only a fleeting show, dying within a few days, many of these are hydroponic flowers that speculators can produce within a few hours after washing off the soil-cultivated root system. In a few days, the flowers bloom and fade! Therefore, at present, for those owners who cannot provide a shelf life for the goods, most are speculators. If a merchant cannot provide a shelf life for the goods, it is recommended not to buy, so as to avoid being cheated!
4. How to identify a truly professional hydroponic flower producer?

Driven by profit, many market speculators use various "formal" means in publicity and information transmission to muddle through and fool the broad masses of consumers and investors. In order to make some so-called high-tech shell companies with no real hydroponic flower technology, no base, no scale, and no technical personnel, which rent a few offices for work inside national universities (such as: Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, etc.), scientific research institutes (such as: Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Chinese Academy of Forestry, a certain research center, etc.), institutions subordinate to the Ministry of Agriculture (such as: the veteran cadre bureau of the Ministry of Agriculture, a certain technical center of the Ministry of Agriculture), or office buildings, and then start advertising to make money, have no place to stand. It also causes those "guerrilla" companies that maliciously transfer some immature so-called "hydroponic flower technology" at low prices to lose the market for deceiving people, and moreover so that you can learn these truly real technologies.

The author solemnly reminds: no matter where in the country or on what media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must sharpen your eyes, be more vigilant, look at several more, and compare more; you must carefully compare the scale of the unit, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality, and after-sales service, {{Remember: you must look at their flower shop products, and then ask for the phone numbers of their franchisees, and try to go to the franchisee to take a look to confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide it to you, then you must think twice before acting. This is the most direct and final method of judgment. Of course, in addition, those "high-level" companies will also, like "medical shills," "academic shills," "real estate shills," and "bar shills," fool you with the level of the "great deceiver" Zhao Benshan, making it impossible for you to guard against it!}}; you must carefully check the authenticity of the technology, training ability, and relevant certificates; you must absolutely not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies, bringing unnecessary losses to your finances and spirit. Apart from distinguishing whether they are truly hydroponic flowers through the product route, in fact everyone only needs to be a little more vigilant to see through many speculators one by one. The following points of experience, several types


 How to Apply Root-External Fertilization to Hydroponic Flowers

Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under root oxygen-deficient conditions, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of the flowers. In order to improve the quality of the flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves.

A fine-hole spray pot should be used, and try not to let the fertilizer solution run off. The back of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, and spray twice during the growth period, which can make hydroponic flowers flourish with lush branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for foliage viewing and also for flower appreciation, such as calla lily, four-season begonia, bamboo begonia, and calla, during the bud stage, use a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate dilution once a week to spray the leaves until the flowers open.