What are the care measures and precautions for a kumquat tree?
1. Light
The kumquat tree likes sunlight and a warm, humid environment, so it is best to place the kumquat tree in a place with plenty of sunlight, but in summer pay attention to moderate light, so that the kumquat tree will grow well.
2. Pruning
For the kumquat tree, pruning is a very important matter, and it must be pruned according to requirements, so that the kumquat tree will maintain a beautiful plant shape.
3. Fertilizing
The kumquat tree likes fertilizer, so it should be fertilized frequently during cultivation, about once every 10 days or so.
4. Watering
The kumquat tree is not tolerant of waterlogging, so there must be no standing water when watering, otherwise the kumquat tree will develop root rot; it is best to keep the potting soil moist.
5. Pest and disease control
The most common problem with the kumquat tree is insect pests, so once pests are found, insecticide should be sprayed, which is relatively convenient.
Well, that is all for today's content. I hope the kumquat tree cultivation methods and precautions provided by the editor can help you solve the situation of kumquat tree leaf drop. Thank you for reading!
Cultivation methods and precautions for potted kumquat
The kumquat is also known as jinzao, jingan, small orange, and so on. It is an evergreen shrub of the genus Fortunella in the Rutaceae family. Potted kumquat has lush branches and leaves and stays green all year round. When it blooms, it gives off a fresh fragrance, and the white flowers are very delicate. When the fruit ripens, it is yellow-red. Whether viewed for its leaves, flowers, or fruit, it has a certain ornamental value, and it is also very common in homes. Now let us take a look at the cultivation methods for potted kumquat!
Grafting propagation
Potted kumquat is usually propagated by grafting. The rootstock used is trifoliate orange, sour orange, or sown seedlings. Grafting methods include scion grafting, bud grafting, and approach grafting. For scion grafting, use the cut-grafting method in spring from March to April; for bud grafting, carry it out from June to September; for potted plants, the approach grafting method is commonly used, carried out from April to July.
Soil preparation
Kumquat likes fertilizer, and cultivation requires fertile, loose, slightly acidic sandy loam with good drainage. For potting, it is advisable to choose a culture soil mixed with 4 parts leaf mold, 5 parts sandy soil, and 1 part cake fertilizer. When repotting, apply hoof pieces or decomposed cake fertilizer at the bottom of the pot as a base fertilizer.
Watering management
Kumquat likes moisture but avoids standing water. If the potting soil is too wet, it easily causes root rot, so during the growth period it is better to keep the potting soil moderately moist. In spring, when it is dry and windy, spray water on the leaf surface once a day to increase air humidity. In summer, spray water 2-3 times a day and also spray water on the ground. However, avoid spraying water during the flowering period to prevent flower rot and affect fruiting. In the rainy season, promptly pour out standing water in the pot to avoid root rot. When placed outdoors in summer, it is best to prop up the flowerpot with bricks to facilitate drainage. From the white flowering stage to the young fruit stage, kumquat is relatively sensitive to water requirements. If the potting soil is too dry at this time, the pedicels and fruit stalks easily form abscission layers and drop; if watering is excessive and the potting soil drainage performance is poor, it also easily causes flower and fruit drop. At this time, it is appropriate to keep the potting soil in a half-moist state that is neither dry nor wet.
Light management
Kumquat likes a warm, humid climate with plenty of sunlight, and should be placed in a sunny place during care. If light is insufficient and the environment is shady, it often causes excessive growth of branches and leaves and fewer flowers and fruits. Because kumquat likes a cool climate in summer, or when summer sunlight is intense, it is better to place it in slight shade at this time. In winter, the room temperature should be above freezing. If the room temperature is too high, the plant cannot get sufficient dormancy, and then growth will be weak the next year, and it will easily drop flowers and buds.
Temperature management
Kumquat likes warm and refreshing growing temperatures. When the temperature in late autumn is below 10°C, it should be moved indoors in time. In winter, the room temperature is best kept at 6 to 12°C. If the temperature is too low, it is easily damaged by freezing; if too high, it will affect the plant's dormancy and is not conducive to flowering and fruiting the following year.
Reasonable fertilizing
Potted kumquat requires proper water and fertilizer management. From the beginning of new bud sprouting until before flowering, a decomposed dilute thin sauce residue water can be applied once every 7-10 days, with several applications of alum fertilizer water in between. After summer begins, it is advisable to apply more phosphorus fertilizer to benefit bud formation and fruiting. At the early fruiting stage, fertilizing should be paused temporarily. When the young fruit grows to about 1 cm in size, liquid fertilizer can be continued once a week until the end of September.
Reasonable pruning
Pruning is an important technical measure for making kumquat bloom abundantly and bear abundant fruit. In order to make the tree shape beautiful and bear more fruit, before the sap begins to flow each year and before spring buds have sprouted, carry out one heavy pruning. Cut off dead branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, overly dense branches, and excessive-growth branches, and retain 3-4 robust, evenly distributed branches from the previous year. For each branch, keep only 2-3 buds at the base and cut off the rest, so that more than 10 full spring shoots can sprout. When the new shoots grow to 15-20 cm, pinch off the tips to make the plant shape full. At this time, apply a quick-acting phosphorus fertilizer once to promote flower bud differentiation. During flowering, appropriately thin the flowers to save nutrients. After young fruits are set, when the young fruits grow to about 1 cm in size, fruit thinning can be carried out. Keep 2-3 fruits per plant on thick branches, and keep one fruit per branch on weak branches, and make the fruits on the whole plant uniform. Promptly cut off autumn shoots so as not to allow a second fruiting, in order to make fruit shape and size and degree of ripening consistent and improve ornamental value.
Pest prevention
Kumquat is rarely found to suffer from insect pests; only the yellow swallowtail butterfly (citrus swallowtail) causes damage. The adult yellow swallowtail butterfly has a body length of 30 mm and a wingspan of 100 mm. It is yellow-green with broad black longitudinal stripes on the back. The forewings have, and the hindwings have 6. The egg is spherical, 1 mm in diameter, and yellow-white. The larvae feed on new leaves and tender buds, hiding by day and feeding at night, and easily cause kumquat leaves to become notched or completely eaten. The treatment for this pest is to spray 50% fenitrothion 1000-fold solution or 80% dichlorvos 1000-fold solution during the larval stage and to catch and kill the pupae on the branches and trunk.
Spring care methods and precautions for potted flowers
1. Timely repotting1. Selection of flowerpots
For potted flowers, the material and volume of the flowerpot have a great influence on flower growth, so it is very important to choose flowerpots reasonably. Current flowerpots can be divided into the following types according to the materials used to make them:
(1) Unglazed clay pots: Generally, clay pots are better than porcelain pots for growing flowers. Clay pots are not only economical and practical, but their air permeability and water seepage performance are also ideal, which is good for root respiration and growth. The disadvantages are monotonous color, unattractive shape, rough surface, limited specifications, and easy breakage.
(2) Plastic pots: The material is light and handy, convenient to use, does not break, is durable, and the inner and outer walls of the pot are smooth and clean. Not only is it easy to knock off soil when repotting, it is also easy to wash and disinfect. However, they are not breathable and do not seep water, so they are only suitable for growing flowers and trees tolerant of moisture, such as umbrella papyrus, Monstera deliciosa, calla lily, and Guangdong evergreen, or for flowers and trees that prefer warmth, such as ferns, spider plant, purple spiderwort, winter coral, night jasmine, and so on.
(3) Porcelain pots and glazed pots: When using glazed flowerpots to plant flowers and trees, the outer wall of the pot is coated with colored glaze, which is not breathable and does not seep water, making it difficult to grasp the dry and wet conditions of the potting soil. Especially during winter dormancy, excessive watering often causes root rot and death of flowers and trees. Therefore, they are not suitable for planting flowers and trees. However, porcelain pots are beautiful in appearance and varied in shape.
2. Preparing culture soil
Commonly used materials include garden soil, leaf mold, peat soil, river sand, rice husk ash, sawdust, moss, and so on. For example, in North China, culture soil can be prepared from three materials: leaf mold, garden soil, and river sand. For growing general herbaceous flowers, 3 parts leaf mold, 5 parts garden soil, and 2 parts river sand can be used; for convenience, packaged nutrient soil from the flower market can also be chosen.
3. Repotting operation
Repotting and soil replacement are generally suitable in April. The repotting time should be handled differently according to different flower species. For example, Chinese rose, jasmine, hibiscus, and begonia should have their potting soil changed once every spring. Some foliage flowers can have their potting soil changed once every 2-3 years. Some ornamental coniferous and cypress flowers and trees can be replaced once every 3-4 years. Stop watering 1-2 days before repotting to make the potting soil somewhat dry, so that the potting soil separates from the pot wall, which is beneficial for the operation.
When repotting, for small and medium flowerpots, gently tap around the flowerpot with your hand to slightly separate the potting soil from the flowerpot, then tip the flowerpot and the plant to one side. At this time, support the plant with one hand, and with the other hand use your thumb or a wooden stick to push inward several times from the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot or tap the bottom of the pot lightly, and then the plant together with the soil ball can be poured out. If it is a perennial flower, remove a layer of old soil from the shoulder and outer surrounding parts of the original soil ball, cut off dead branches, curled roots, and some old roots, place new culture soil in a pot one size larger, and plant it into it. If it is a woody flower, appropriately remove part of the original soil ball and cut off old dead roots. Generally it should also be planted into a pot one size larger, and attention should be paid to adding new culture soil.
The planting method when repotting is basically the same as when potting initially. After repotting, water thoroughly and place in a cool place, then gradually move it into sunlight after 10-15 days.
2. Taking plants outdoors in time
As the temperature rises, potted flowers will also gradually be moved outdoors in spring. The time for moving them outdoors should be delayed rather than rushed, and the order should be based on the cold resistance of the flowers. For example, winter jasmine, plum blossom, Chinese rose, cedar, and wintersweet can be moved outdoors in early April when the average daily temperature reaches 15°C; jasmine, hibiscus, bougainvillea, white orchid, Aglaia odorata, kumquat, and cactus should preferably be moved outdoors in early to mid-May when the average daily temperature reaches about 18°C. Before moving outdoors, it is best to first go through a period of adapting to the outdoor environment, and then move them outdoors for the whole day. After all have been moved outdoors, spray and wash the branches and leaves with clean water once every day at noon, and keep the potting soil moist. If severe weather occurs, they should still be moved indoors in time. The temperature indicators just mentioned are also suitable for moving them out to the balcony.
(Precautions: Mastering common knowledge of flower growth patterns is the key to caring for potted flowers moved outdoors in spring.
1. Before moving outdoors, first train their adaptability.
2. There is an order for moving outdoors; do not apply a one-size-fits-all approach.
3. When first moved outdoors, protect against both exposure to the sun and cold wind.
3. Scientific pruning
Pruning flowers can regulate the nutrition and growth vigor of existing branches and leaves, promote the sprouting and robustness of new branches, reduce pests and diseases, produce more flower buds, and enlarge flowers.
For Chinese rose, hibiscus, poinsettia, kumquat, and others that bloom on one-year-old branches, heavy pruning can be carried out in spring to promote more new shoots, more flowers, and more fruits. For plum blossom, ornamental peach, forsythia, lilac, winter jasmine, and others that bloom in spring, their flower buds are mostly formed on branches from the previous year, so heavy pruning cannot be done in spring. It is only suitable to cut off autumn shoots without flower buds; otherwise, flowering branches will be cut off and flowering will be affected. Only after flowering can pruning be done to promote the sprouting of new shoots and form flowering branches for the next year. For plants that bloom in all four seasons (four-season flowering plants), plants with a long flowering period, perennial herbaceous herbs, and so on, after flowering, 1/2 to 2/3 of the plant should be cut off to benefit a full plant shape or more flowering. Some flowers cannot bloom or bear fruit because of excessive growth; part of the roots can be cut to inhibit excessive growth of branches and leaves and promote flowering and fruiting. The following introduces the pruning of azaleas:
Azalea
Pruning of azalea: After the flowers fade, cut off the remnants and the 2-4 leaves below them, and promptly cut off dense branches, remnant branches, dead branches, crossing branches, weak branches, excessive-growth branches, and diseased branches. During the growth period, unnecessary small branches sprouting on the branches and stems should be thinned out. When pruning, note that branches that need to be retained should not be shortened, because azalea leaves mostly cluster at the top of the branches. After flowering, a section of new branch grows and a cluster of new leaves grows, the old leaves then fall off, and then the terminal buds begin flower bud differentiation. Therefore, leaving robust and healthy branches and stems is very important, as it relates to the number of flowers next year. After new branches sprout, through pruning and tying, they can gradually become an ornamental "umbrella shape," "pagoda shape," or other plant shape.
4. Reasonable watering
Watering in spring is the key to growing potted flowers well. Because the spring climate is relatively dry and air humidity is low, if the amount of watering is small, it will cause yellow leaves and leaf drop and affect the growth and development of flowers; too much watering will cause flower bud drop or root rot, and even death.
Different types of flowers have different habits, and their water requirements vary greatly. Moisture-loving flowers such as ferns, orchids, and begonias need more watering; drought-loving flowers such as Crassulaceae, Cactaceae, and Agavaceae need less watering; bulbous flowers should not be watered too much. Rainwater, pond water, and river water are most suitable. Generally, tap water can also be used for flowers, but it is best to store tap water for 1-2 days before use.
The amount of watering also depends on the size and texture of the flowerpot. If the flowerpot is small, the potting soil dries quickly, and the watering frequency should be increased; if the flowerpot is large, the opposite is true. Clay pots are loose in texture and have good water seepage performance. The water lost through evaporation from the pot wall is even more than the water consumed by the flowers, so more watering is needed; ceramic pots, glazed pots, and purple clay pots are fine and dense in texture, with poor water seepage and air permeability, so less watering should be done; plastic pots are impermeable to water and air, so even less watering should be done. Several commonly used watering methods:
Soaking pot method: Immerse the flowerpot in a basin of water and let water seep into the potting soil along the hole at the bottom of the pot until the potting soil is completely soaked.
Watering can method: Use a watering can to pour water directly onto the pot surface. This method is commonly used for relatively large flowers and trees.
Sprinkling can method: Use a watering can to sprinkle water on the leaf surface of the plant and the pot surface. This method is commonly used for newly potted seedlings, cuttings, and foliage plants. However, some flowers are particularly sensitive to water. For example, gloxinia, calceolaria, and begonia have relatively thick fuzz on their leaf surfaces, and after spraying, the water is not easily evaporated, so the leaves rot easily; after the leaf buds at the top of the cyclamen corm and the flower buds of African chrysanthemum touch water, they easily rot and wither, so spraying water is not suitable. For blooming flowers, it is also not suitable to spray too much water, otherwise it easily causes petal mildew or affects fertilization and reduces the seed-setting rate.
5. Reasonable fertilizing
Different types of flowers require fertilizers of different properties. The types of fertilizers applied should be reasonably matched, otherwise nutrient deficiency symptoms easily occur. Green foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, spider plant, asparagus fern, and sago palm, generally mainly require nitrogen fertilizer; colorful foliage plants, such as coleus, caladium, and dieffenbachia, in addition to nitrogen fertilizer, also need attention to increasing phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, otherwise the leaves will grow excessively and the markings will disappear. Flower-viewing and fruit-viewing flowers, such as large-flowered pansy, calendula, petunia, and ornamental pepper, should be given complete fertilizer. Apply more nitrogen fertilizer at the seedling stage, and more phosphorus fertilizer at the flower bud differentiation stage, flower bud formation stage, and early flowering stage, so as to promote both abundant flowers and fruit; for flowers that bloom multiple times in a year, such as Chinese rose, jasmine, and Aglaia odorata, mainly apply phosphorus fertilizer to promote repeated flowering; bulbous flowers should be given more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to benefit bulb development; for southern acid-loving flowers, such as azalea, camellia, gardenia, Bromeliaceae, and ferns, avoid alkaline fertilizers and preferably apply acidic fertilizers such as ammonium sulfate and superphosphate. When necessary, also increase the application of ferrous sulfate to adjust soil pH to ensure abundant flowers and luxuriant leaves.
(Precautions: Fertilizer and water management should be reasonable. Spring is exactly the season for the growth and development of flowers and trees, and they need more water and fertilizer. If the supply of water and fertilizer is insufficient, growth will not be vigorous. But too much fertilizing and excessive watering easily cause fertilizer damage, "burning to death," and root rot, so fertilizing and watering must both be appropriate. When fertilizing, follow the principle of "apply thin fertilizer frequently and increase appropriately," generally applying once every 10 to 15 days in the evening of a sunny day a fully decomposed liquid fertilizer such as cake fertilizer water or chicken and duck manure. For seedlings, flowers and trees that have just been repotted and had their soil changed, and flowers and trees that have just been potted, fertilizing should be postponed until they grow normally. For watering flowers and trees, follow the principle of "water when dry, do not water when not dry, and water thoroughly when watering," watering 2 to 3 times a week, preferably at noon on sunny days. The water temperature should not be too low; it is best to be close to room temperature, and soft water is preferable. If it is tap water, it should be left for 2 to 3 days until the chlorine has evaporated before use.
6. Flower propagation
1. Treatment methods for flower and tree cuttings
Spring is the best season for flower cutting propagation. Because the temperature is often kept at 15°C-20°C and humidity is high, the survival rate is high. Most potted flowers can be propagated in early spring by cutting robust branches or stems (such as Chinese rose, jasmine, Monstera deliciosa, ivy, Chinese trumpet creeper, Chaenomeles speciosa, lilac, and hibiscus), roots (such as wisteria, crape myrtle, peony, and begonia), or leaves (such as gloxinia, snake plant, and begonia rex).
When taking cuttings of flowers, in addition to treating the cuttings with rooting powder, the following methods can also be used:
(1) Soaking in potassium permanganate aqueous solution: Soak the cut cuttings in a 0.1%-0.5% potassium permanganate aqueous solution to a depth of 2 cm for 12 hours, then take them out and insert them immediately. They can be inserted directly into a seedling bed or various containers.
(2) Soaking in white sugar water: Soak the cuttings in a liquid made with white sugar water. The ratio for herbaceous flowers is 2%-5%, and for woody flowers 5%-10%. The soaking depth is 2 cm, and the soaking time is 24 hours. After taking them out, rinse off the white sugar water liquid with clean water, and then they can be inserted.
(3) Vitamin soaking: Use vitamin B12 injection diluted with double the amount of water, soak the base of the cuttings for 10-15 minutes, and then insert them.
(4) Willow branch liquid soaking: Soak the base of the cuttings in willow branch extract for 1-2 days, and then insert them.
Insert the treated cuttings into culture soil (commonly used ones include river sand, vermiculite, perlite, soft mountain soil, or garden soil). The insertion depth is 2/3 of the length of the cutting. After transplanting, place in half shade for care for a few days, and after robust growth, place in sunlight for daily management.
2. Commonly used sowing methods and seed treatment
For some seeds that germinate slowly, artificial measures can be used before sowing to give appropriate treatment to promote earlier germination. Generally, the seed soaking method can be used, that is, before sowing, soak the seeds in cold water or warm water below 40°C. Depending on the flower type, the soaking time varies from 2-24 hours. For some seeds with hard seed coats that are impermeable to air and water, the seed coat scarification method can be used to allow water to enter the seeds and promote water absorption and germination.
(1) Broadcast sowing: Often used for smaller seeds, such as China aster, Aster novi-belgii, and snapdragon. Before sowing, first break up the soil finely and level it, water thoroughly, and after 1-2 hours, evenly scatter the seeds in the seedbed or flowerpot, then cover with fine soil just until the seeds cannot be seen. Before sowing, water thoroughly. Generally, no watering is needed before emergence; when necessary, use a fine-spout watering can to spray water. For pot sowing, cover with glass and newspaper to retain moisture and heat; when necessary, soak the pot to allow water to seep in. Do not water directly, otherwise the seeds will be washed out or silted to one side and the germination rate will be affected. After the young buds emerge, gradually remove the covering. For particularly tiny seeds such as gloxinia, calceolaria, and wax begonia, the seeds should be mixed with 3-4 times their amount of fine sand and scattered in the flowerpot, with no need to cover with soil.
(2) Drill sowing: Open shallow furrows in the seedbed or potting soil, sow the seeds into the furrows, and press flat. Other management is the same as broadcast sowing. Drill sowing is mostly used for taproot flowers that are not suitable for transplanting, such as corn poppy and morning glory.
(3) Dibble sowing: Large seeds can be sown one by one, such as four o'clock flower and nasturtium. The covering soil thickness is about 3 times the diameter of the seed.
After the seeds germinate, water should be appropriately reduced to harden the seedlings, and overly dense seedlings should be thinned in time to maintain ventilation and light transmission. When 2-3 true leaves have grown, transplant them; those tolerant of transplanting can be moved another 1-2 times. Some herbaceous flowers are not suitable for transplanting, such as corn poppy and cypress vine, and it is best not to transplant them.
7. Pest and disease control
Spring is a season with a high incidence of pests and diseases, and plants are easily harmed by pests such as scale insects, red spiders, aphids, and whiteflies.
Diseases include leaf spot disease and rot disease of branches and trunks. If no pests or diseases are found, pesticides can be sprayed for prevention.
Insecticides include: plant compound insecticide, 05 biological insecticide, and so on. Fungicides include: carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, and so on. After pests and diseases appear, spray once every 5-7 days, for 3-4 consecutive times. For preventing pests and diseases, spray once every 30 days. The concentration should follow the instructions.