How to care for New York aster? Detailed guide to care methods and precautions
1. Light management
New York aster likes a sunny and well-ventilated environment and is drought-tolerant, so make sure it gets plenty of sunlight.
2. Watering management
Water New York aster in moderation, not too much, and water according to how dry the soil is; remember, there must be no waterlogging.
3. Soil management
The soil needs to be loose and have good drainage and water permeability, which helps with drainage.
4. Pest and disease control
Keep the spacing between each New York aster plant well controlled, so pests are less likely to breed. If pests are found, immediately use pesticides to kill them.
5. Pruning management
New York aster needs frequent pruning to maintain its overall good looks.
6. Fertilizing management
Fertilize New York aster regularly, about once every two weeks, which benefits its growth.
Well, that is all for today's content. The above are the New York aster planting methods and care measures we have provided for you, and we hope they can help you!
Spring care methods and precautions for potted flowers
I. Repotting at the right time1. Choosing flower pots
For potted flowers, the material of the pot and the size of its volume have a great influence on flower growth, so choosing pots reasonably is very important. Current flower pots can be divided into the following types according to the different materials used to make them:
(1) Unglazed clay pots: Generally, clay pots are better for growing flowers than porcelain pots. Clay pots are not only economical and practical, but their air permeability and water seepage performance are also ideal, which is good for root respiration and growth. The drawbacks are that their colors are monotonous, their shapes are not attractive, their surfaces are rough, there are not many specifications, and they break easily.
(2) Plastic pots: The material is light, convenient to use, does not break, and is durable. The inner and outer walls of the pot are smooth and clean, making it not only easy to knock off soil when repotting, but also easy to wash and disinfect. However, they are not breathable or water-permeable, so they are only suitable for planting flowers and trees tolerant of moisture, such as umbrella papyrus, Swiss cheese plant, calla lily, and Chinese evergreen, or for flowers and trees that prefer warmer conditions, such as ferns, spider plants, purple spiderwort, winter coral, and night jasmine.
(3) Porcelain pots and glazed pots: When glazed pots are used to plant flowers and trees, the outer wall of the pot is coated with colored glaze, so it is not breathable or water-permeable, and it is not easy to judge whether the potting soil is dry or wet. Especially during winter dormancy, flowers and trees often die from root rot due to overwatering. Therefore, they are not suitable for planting flowers and trees. But porcelain pots are attractive in appearance and varied in shape.
2. Preparing potting soil
Commonly used materials include garden soil, leaf mold, peat soil, river sand, rice husk ash, sawdust, and moss. For example, in North China, potting soil can be prepared from three materials: leaf mold, garden soil, and river sand. For growing general herbaceous flowers, you can use 3 parts leaf mold, 5 parts garden soil, and 2 parts river sand; for convenience, you can also choose prepackaged nutrient soil from the flower market.
3. Repotting procedure
Repotting and changing soil are generally best done in April. The timing of repotting should be handled differently according to the different types of flowers. For example, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chinese hibiscus, and begonia should have their potting soil changed once every spring; some foliage flowers can have their potting soil changed once every 2-3 years; and some ornamental coniferous and cypress plants can be changed once every 3-4 years. Stop watering 1-2 days before repotting, so that the potting soil becomes a bit drier, making it easier for the soil to separate from the pot wall and facilitating the operation.
When repotting, for small and medium pots, you can gently tap around the flower pot with your hand to slightly separate the potting soil from the pot, then tip the pot and plant to one side. At this time, support the plant with one hand, and with the other hand use your thumb or a wooden stick to push inward several times from the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot or gently tap the bottom of the pot, and the plant with its soil ball can be tipped out. If it is a perennial flower, you need to shovel off a layer from the shoulder and outer surrounding old soil of the original soil ball, cut off dead branches, curled roots, and some old roots, then place it into a pot one size larger filled with new potting soil and plant it in. If it is a woody flower, you can appropriately remove part of the original soil ball and cut off old dead roots, and generally it should also be planted into a pot one size larger, taking care to add new potting soil.
The planting method when repotting is basically the same as when potting up. After repotting, water thoroughly and place in a cool place, then gradually move it into sunlight after 10-15 days.
II. Moving outdoors in time
As temperatures rise, potted flowers will also gradually be moved outdoors in spring. The timing for moving them outdoors should be gradual rather than rushed, and should be ordered according to the cold resistance of the flowers. For example, winter jasmine, plum blossom, Chinese rose, deodar cedar, and wintersweet can be moved outdoors in early April when the average daily temperature reaches 15°C; jasmine, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, white orchid, Aglaia odorata, kumquat, and cactus should preferably be moved outdoors in early to mid-May when the average daily temperature reaches about 18°C. Before moving outdoors, it is best to first go through a period of adapting to the outdoor environment, and then move them outdoors for the whole day. After all have been moved outdoors, spray and wash the branches and leaves with clean water once every day at noon, and keep the potting soil moist. If bad weather occurs, they should still be promptly moved back indoors. The temperature indicators just mentioned are also suitable for moving plants out to the balcony.
(Precautions: Mastering common knowledge of flower growth patterns is the key to caring well for potted flowers moved outdoors in spring.
I. Before moving outdoors, first train their adaptability.
II. Moving outdoors should be done in sequence, not all at once.
III. When first moved outdoors, protect against both intense sunlight and cold wind.
III. Scientific pruning
Pruning flowers can regulate the nutrition and growth vigor of existing branches and leaves, promote the sprouting and vigor of new branches, reduce pests and diseases, produce more flower buds, and increase flower size.
For Chinese rose, Chinese hibiscus, poinsettia, kumquat, and others that bloom on one-year-old branches, heavy pruning can be carried out in spring to encourage more new shoots, more flowers, and more fruit. For plum blossom, ornamental peach, forsythia, lilac, winter jasmine, and others that bloom in spring, their flower buds are mostly formed on branches grown in the previous year, so heavy pruning should not be done in spring; only autumn shoots without flower buds should be cut off, otherwise flower branches will be cut off and flowering will be affected. After flowering, they can then be pruned to encourage new shoots to sprout and form flower branches for the next year. For plants that bloom in all four seasons (four-season flowering plants), plants with long flowering periods, and perennial herbaceous herbs, after flowering, 1/2 to 2/3 of the plant should be cut off to help the plant shape become fuller or produce more flowers. Some flowers cannot bloom or bear fruit because of excessive vegetative growth; part of the roots can be cut to inhibit excessive growth of branches and leaves and promote flowering and fruiting. Below is an introduction to pruning rhododendrons:
Rhododendron
Pruning rhododendrons: After the flowers fade, cut off the faded flowers together with the 2-4 leaves below them, and promptly cut off dense branches, damaged branches, dead branches, crossing branches, weak branches, excessively vigorous branches, and diseased branches. During the growing period, unnecessary small branches sprouting on the stems should be thinned out. When pruning, note that branches to be retained should not be cut back, because the leaves of rhododendrons are mostly clustered at the tips of branches. After flowering, a section of new branch grows and a cluster of new leaves appears, the old leaves then fall off, and the terminal buds begin flower bud differentiation. Therefore, leaving strong, healthy stems and branches is very important, as it relates to the number of flowers next year. After new branches sprout, through pruning and tying, they can gradually be shaped into ornamental "umbrella" or "pagoda" forms or other plant shapes.
IV. Reasonable watering
Watering in spring is the key to growing potted flowers well. Because spring weather is relatively dry and air humidity is low, if the amount of water is too small, it will cause yellow leaves and leaf drop, affecting the growth and development of the flowers; if too much water is given, it will cause flower buds to drop or roots to rot, or even death.
Different types of flowers have different habits and quite different water requirements. Moisture-loving flowers such as ferns, orchids, and begonias should be watered more; drought-loving flowers such as Crassulaceae, Cactaceae, and Agavaceae should be watered less; bulbous flowers should not be watered too much. Rainwater, pond water, and river water are most suitable. Generally, tap water can also be used for flowers, but it is best to store tap water for 1-2 days first before use.
The amount of watering also depends on the size and texture of the flower pot. If the pot is small, the potting soil dries quickly, so the watering frequency should be increased; if the pot is large, the opposite is true. Clay pots are loose in texture and have good water seepage performance, and the water lost through evaporation from the pot wall is even more than that consumed by the flowers, so more watering is needed; ceramic pots, glazed pots, and purple clay pots are fine and dense in texture, with poor water seepage and air permeability, so they should be watered less; plastic pots are not water-permeable or air-permeable, so they should be watered even less. Several commonly used watering methods:
Soaking method: Immerse the flower pot in a basin of water, letting water seep into the potting soil through the hole at the bottom of the pot until the potting soil is completely soaked through.
Watering can method: Use a watering can to pour water directly onto the pot surface. This method is commonly used for relatively large flowers and trees.
Sprinkling can method: Use a watering can to sprinkle water on the leaf surfaces of the plant and the pot surface. This method is commonly used for newly potted seedlings, cuttings, and foliage plants. However, some flowers are especially sensitive to water. For example, gloxinia, calceolaria, and begonia have thick hairs on their leaf surfaces, and after sprinkling, water does not evaporate easily, so the leaves rot easily; after the leaf buds at the top of cyclamen corms and the flower buds of African daisies touch water, they rot easily and wither, so sprinkling should not be used. For flowers in full bloom, sprinkling should also not be excessive, otherwise it easily causes petal mildew or affects fertilization and reduces the seed-setting rate.
V. Reasonable fertilizing
Different types of flowers require fertilizers of different natures. The types of fertilizers applied should be reasonably matched, otherwise nutrient deficiency symptoms easily occur. Green foliage plants, such as Swiss cheese plant, spider plant, asparagus fern, and sago palm, generally mainly need nitrogen fertilizer; colorful foliage plants, such as coleus, Caladium bicolor, and Dieffenbachia, besides nitrogen fertilizer, also need increased phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, otherwise the leaves will grow excessively and the markings will disappear. Flower- and fruit-viewing flowers, such as large-flowered pansy, pot marigold, petunia, and ornamental pepper, should be given complete fertilizer, with more nitrogen fertilizer at the seedling stage and more phosphorus fertilizer during flower bud differentiation, flower bud formation, and the early flowering stage, so as to promote both abundant flowers and fruit; flowers that bloom multiple times a year, such as Chinese rose, jasmine, and Aglaia odorata, should mainly receive phosphorus fertilizer to promote repeated flowering; bulbous flowers should receive more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to benefit bulb development; southern acid-loving flowers, such as rhododendron, camellia, gardenia, Bromeliaceae, and ferns, should avoid alkaline fertilizers and should preferably receive acidic fertilizers such as ammonium sulfate and superphosphate, and when necessary also additional ferrous sulfate to adjust soil pH, so as to ensure abundant flowers and lush leaves.
(Precautions: Fertilizer and water management must be reasonable. Spring is exactly the season when flowers and trees grow and develop, so they need more water and fertilizer. If the supply of water and fertilizer is insufficient, growth will not be vigorous. But too much fertilizer and too much watering easily cause fertilizer damage, "burning to death," and root rot, so both fertilizing and watering must be appropriate. When fertilizing, follow the principle of "apply thin fertilizer frequently and increase appropriately," generally applying once every 10 to 15 days on the evening of a sunny day a fully decomposed liquid fertilizer such as cake fertilizer water or chicken and duck manure. For seedlings, flowers and trees just repotted and soil-changed, and flowers and trees just potted up, fertilizing should be postponed until they grow normally. Water flowers and trees according to the principle of "water when dry, not when wet; do not water if not dry; water thoroughly when watering," watering 2 to 3 times a week, preferably at noon on sunny days. The water temperature must not be too low; it is best if it is close to room temperature, and soft water is preferable. If it is tap water, it should be left for 2 to 3 days until the chlorine volatilizes before use.
VI. Propagation of flowers
1. Treatment methods for flower and tree cuttings
Spring is the best season for flower cutting propagation. Because the temperature often remains at 15°C-20°C and humidity is high, the survival rate is high. Most potted flowers can be propagated in early spring by cuttings taken from vigorous branches or stems (such as Chinese rose, jasmine, Swiss cheese plant, ivy, Chinese trumpet creeper, Chaenomeles speciosa, lilac, and Chinese hibiscus), roots (such as wisteria, crape myrtle, peony, and begonia), or leaves (such as gloxinia, snake plant, and rex begonia).
When propagating flowers by cuttings, besides treating the cuttings with rooting powder, the following methods can also be used:
(1) Soaking in potassium permanganate aqueous solution: Soak the cut cuttings in a 0.1%-0.5% potassium permanganate aqueous solution to a depth of 2 cm for 12 hours. After removing them, insert them immediately; they can be inserted directly into a seedbed or various containers.
(2) Soaking in white sugar water: Soak the cuttings in liquid made with white sugar water. The ratio for herbaceous flowers is 2%-5%, and for woody flowers 5%-10%. The soaking depth is 2 cm, and the soaking time is 24 hours. After removing them, rinse off the white sugar water with clean water, and they can then be inserted.
(3) Vitamin soaking: Use vitamin B12 injection diluted with an equal amount of water, and soak the base of the cuttings for 10-15 minutes, then insert them.
(4) Willow branch liquid soaking: Soak the base of the cuttings in willow branch extract for 1-2 days, then insert them.
Insert the treated cuttings into potting soil (commonly used ones include river sand, vermiculite, perlite, and soft mountain soil or field soil). The insertion depth is 2/3 of the length of the cutting. After transplanting, place in a semi-shaded area for care for a few days, and after they grow vigorously, place them in sunlight for routine management.
2. Commonly used sowing methods and seed treatment
For some seeds that germinate slowly, artificial measures can be used before sowing to give appropriate treatment to promote earlier germination. Generally, the seed soaking method can be used, that is, soaking the seeds in cold water or warm water below 40°C before sowing. Depending on the flower type, the soaking time varies from 2-24 hours. For some seeds with hard seed coats that are impermeable to air and water, the seed coat scoring method can be used to allow moisture to enter the seeds and promote water absorption and germination.
(1) Broadcast sowing: Often used for smaller seeds, such as China aster, New York aster, and snapdragon. Before sowing, first break up the soil finely and level it. After watering thoroughly, wait 1-2 hours, then evenly scatter the seeds in the seedbed or flower pot, covering with fine soil just until the seeds cannot be seen. Before sowing, water thoroughly; generally no watering is needed before seedlings emerge, and if necessary, a fine-spouted watering can may be used to spray water. For pot sowing, cover with glass and newspaper to retain moisture and warmth; if necessary, soak the pot to let water seep in, and do not water directly, otherwise the seeds will be washed out or accumulate to one side, affecting the germination rate. After the young shoots emerge, gradually remove the cover. For especially tiny seeds such as gloxinia, calceolaria, and wax begonia, the seeds should be mixed with 3-4 times their amount of fine sand and broadcast in the flower pot, with no further soil covering.
(2) Row sowing: Open shallow furrows in the seedbed or potting soil, sow the seeds into the furrows and press flat. Other management is the same as for broadcast sowing. Row sowing is mostly used for taprooted flowers that are not suitable for transplanting, such as corn poppy and morning glory.
(3) Dibble sowing: Large seeds can be sown one by one, such as four o'clock flower and nasturtium, with the soil covering thickness equal to about 3 times the diameter of the seed.
After the seeds germinate, water should be appropriately reduced to harden the seedlings, and overly dense seedlings should be thinned in time to maintain ventilation and light transmission. When 2-3 true leaves have grown, transplant them; those tolerant of transplanting can be moved 1-2 more times. Some herbaceous flowers are not suitable for transplanting, such as corn poppy and cypress vine, and it is best not to transplant them.
VII. Pest and disease control
Spring is a season with a high incidence of pests and diseases, and plants are easily harmed by pests such as scale insects, red spider mites, aphids, and whiteflies.
Diseases include leaf spot disease, branch and trunk rot, and so on. For those in which pests and diseases have not yet been found, pesticide can be sprayed for prevention.
Insecticides such as: plant compound insecticide, 05 biological insecticide, etc. Fungicides include: carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, etc. After pests and diseases appear, spray once every 5-7 days, for 3-4 consecutive times. For prevention of pests and diseases, spray once every 30 days. Follow the instructions for the concentration.
Care measures for the southern plant date palm
Part One: "Organization of Southern Plants"
Frangipani
Frangipani, its flowers really look like eggs, milky white on the outside and bright yellow in the center, just like the white and yolk of an egg, and they look really cute. Its branches are thick and fleshy. The leaves are also large, and the flowers and leaves are clustered at the tips of the branches. Frangipani blooms brilliantly in summer, giving people a feeling of purity and elegant temperament, and it is very suitable for people to admire carefully. After the leaves fall, the bare trunk bends naturally, and its form is very beautiful. It is very suitable for planting in courtyards and lawns. Frangipani likes a high-temperature, high-humidity, sunny environment with good drainage. It is naturally robust and can tolerate drought, but it fears cold and avoids waterlogging. It likes to grow in acidic soil, but it is also resistant to alkalinity. Cultivation is best in deep, fertile, well-aerated acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter. Propagation uses the cutting method. When planting frangipani, attention should also be paid to pest and disease control. For example, if brown small spots appear on the leaves or even the leaves become dark black, that is because of frangipani leaf spot disease, and at this time you should pay attention to taking measures. Of course, there may also be other diseases, so frangipani needs your care and attention. In fact, besides white, frangipani also has red and yellow types, all of which can be used to extract essential oils for making high-grade cosmetics, soap, and food additives. The price is quite high, and it has great commercial development potential; the fresh flowers can also be dried for making tea, commonly known as frangipani tea, which has the effects of treating heat dysentery and moistening the lungs and detoxifying. The frangipani tree has a beautiful shape, with many branches on the stem in strange and varied forms; the leaves resemble loquat, and after falling in winter, semicircular leaf scars remain on the branch tips, quite like deer antlers decorated with beautiful spots. It can be called the preferred small tree choice for tropical landscaping, courtyard arrangement, and potted ornamental appreciation. The bark is thin and grayish green, rich in toxic white sap, which can be used for external application to treat scabies, redness and swelling, and other conditions. The wood is white, light and soft, and can be used to make musical instruments, tableware, or furniture. Frangipani flower meaning: breeding hope, revival, rebirth, as simple and ordinary as life, so it can always be so close to people, without distance.
Yulan magnolia
Yulan magnolia is a tall deciduous tree. The bark is dark gray, rough and cracked; the twigs are slightly stout, grayish brown; the winter buds and flower stalks are densely covered with light grayish yellow long silky hairs. The leaves are papery, obovate, broadly obovate, or obovate-elliptic, and the leaves on vigorous basal branches are elliptic. Yulan magnolia flowers are very much like lotus flowers. When in full bloom, the petals spread in all directions, making the courtyard appear in patches of blue-white with dazzling white light, and they have high ornamental value; together with waves of delicate fragrance that refresh the heart, they are truly an ideal flower type for beautifying courtyards. Yulan magnolia likes light and is relatively cold-tolerant, and can overwinter in the open ground. It loves dryness and avoids low humidity; waterlogged planting sites easily cause root rot. It likes fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic sandy soil, and can also grow in weakly alkaline soil. In the warmer south, it can bloom from December to January of the following year. Yulan magnolia has strong resistance to harmful gases. For example, if this flower is planted in a factory polluted by sulfur dioxide and chlorine gas, it has a certain resistance and ability to absorb sulfur. When artificially fumigated with sulfur dioxide, 1 kg of dry leaves can absorb more than 1.6 g of sulfur. Therefore, Yulan magnolia is a very good pollution-resistant landscaping tree species for areas with air pollution. Yulan magnolia likes light; young trees are relatively shade-tolerant, but they are not tolerant of strong light or west-facing sun. Too strong light or west-facing sun easily causes sunburn damage to the trees. Yulan magnolia likes fertilizer. Besides applying base fertilizer at planting, it should be fertilized every year thereafter. Sufficient fertilizer can make the plant grow vigorously with lush, thick green leaves, and not only produce more buds, but also larger flowers, with a long flowering period and rich fragrance. Yulan magnolia is a tree species with relatively strong disease resistance. The main diseases include anthracnose, chlorosis, and leaf sunburn disease. Besides ornamental value, Yulan magnolia also has medicinal value and edible value. Yulan magnolia flowers contain volatile oil, mainly citral, clove oil acid, and so on, and also contain magnolia alkaloids, alkaloids, yulan magnolia essence, capric acid, rutin, oleic acid, vitamin A, and other components, and have certain medicinal value. Yulan magnolia flowers are pungent and warm in nature and flavor, and have the effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold, unblocking orifices, and ventilating the lungs and nose. They can be used for headache, blood stasis-type dysmenorrhea, nasal congestion, acute and chronic sinusitis, allergic rhinitis, and other conditions. Modern pharmacological studies show that Yulan magnolia flowers have an inhibitory effect on common skin fungi.
Yulan magnolia flowers are rich in vitamins, amino acids, and various trace elements, and have the effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold, and regulating qi and the lungs. They can be processed into snacks, and can also be brewed as tea. The flower meaning of Yulan magnolia represents repaying kindness. Yulan magnolia often blooms large white flowers amid lush greenery, and with its fragrant scent it gives people a kind of indescribable temperament, truly fresh and lovely. Because the plant is tall, the flowers are positioned relatively high, swaying in the wind with a spirited appearance, just like a heavenly maiden scattering flowers, very adorable.
Maranta
Maranta is a herbaceous plant. Most varieties have underground rhizomes or tubers, and the leaves are solitary, relatively large, ovate or ovate-lanceolate, with leaf veins arranged in a pinnate pattern, in two rows, with entire margins. Maranta is a relatively good groundcover plant with diverse colors and is a very good foliage plant. Maranta is a tropical plant and likes a warm, humid environment with bright light. It is not cold-tolerant, nor drought-tolerant, and fears intense sunlight. If exposed to direct sunlight, it will scorch the leaves, causing localized scorching at the leaf edges, stopping the growth of new leaves, and turning the leaf color yellow. Therefore, shading should be noted during cultivation. Maranta is relatively sensitive to water. During the growing period, it should be watered sufficiently to keep the potting soil moist, but the soil should not be waterlogged, otherwise it will cause root rot and even plant death. Maranta is somewhat "delicate." Sufficient care must be invested all 365 days. If there are a few days of major environmental fluctuation, it will leave "evidence of the crime" on the plant. This is the consensus of maranta seedling traders and producers. Maranta plants do not have many pests and diseases, mainly scale insects, whiteflies, and so on. Of course, it also has other value, such as medicinal value and dietary value. Maranta powder is almost entirely starch, contains no vitamins, and has a protein content of only 0.2%. It can be used as a thickening agent for soups, sauces, puddings, and desserts. Add water and boil to form a transparent, odorless, tasty paste. Maranta powder is fine in texture and, compared with other starches, can be cooked at lower temperatures and in shorter times, and is easy to digest. It is especially suitable for custards and other egg products that cannot be overcooked, and is also suitable for making light-flavored, low-salt, and low-protein foods. Effects: clears the lungs and stops coughing, clears heat and promotes urination. Indications: used to treat cough due to lung heat and painful urination due to damp-heat in the bladder.
Red loropetalum
Red loropetalum is an evergreen shrub or small tree. The bark is dark gray or light grayish brown, and it is much branched. The young branches are reddish brown and densely covered with stellate hairs. The leaves are leathery and alternate, ovate or elliptic, 2-5 cm long, with a short pointed apex, a rounded and oblique base, asymmetrical, with stellate hairs on both sides, entire margins, and dark red color. Red loropetalum likes light and is slightly shade-tolerant, but in shade the leaf color easily turns green. It has strong adaptability and is drought-tolerant. It likes warmth and is cold-tolerant. Its sprouting ability and branching ability are strong, and it is tolerant of pruning. It is tolerant of poor soil, but is suitable for growing in fertile, moist, slightly acidic soil. Red loropetalum has luxuriant branches and leaves, a graceful posture, is tolerant of pruning, and tolerant of wiring, and can be used for hedges and also for making stump bonsai. When it blooms, the whole tree is full of red flowers, extremely spectacular. Loropetalum is an evergreen plant, and its new leaves are bright red. Different strains differ in leaf color and flower color at maturity, and leaf size also differs. In garden applications, the main consideration is the contrast in leaf color formed by the two factors of leaf color and leaf size, and the flowering periods can also be staggered. Main pests: aphids, geometer moths, yellow noctuid moths, and other noctuid moths, large and small cutworms, and scarab beetles, etc. Common diseases of red loropetalum: anthracnose, damping-off, and mosaic disease. Anthracnose: mainly harms old leaves and basal leaves. Because the leaves themselves are red, the lesions appear as
black round spots, or nearly round, causing early leaf drop. Damage is severe in the rainy season from July to August. The pathogen is Actinonema. The fungus overwinters as mycelium on diseased leaves and is the primary infection source for the disease the following year. When you find disease on the branches and leaves of red loropetalum, you must treat it in time.
Ornamental peach
Ornamental peach is a variety of peach, a tree, 3-8 m tall; the crown is broad and flat-spreading; the bark is dark reddish brown, rough and scale-like when old; the twigs are slender, hairless, glossy, green, turning red on the sunny side, with many small lenticels; the winter buds are conical, blunt at the apex, covered with short pubescence, often clustered 2-3 together, with a leaf bud in the middle and flower buds on both sides. The leaves are oblong-lanceolate, elliptic-lanceolate, or obovate-lanceolate. Ornamental peach likes sunlight and is drought-tolerant, and does not tolerate humid environments. It likes a warm climate and has good cold resistance, and can overwinter safely in a natural environment at minus 25°C. It requires fertile, well-drained soil. It does not like waterlogging; if planted in waterlogged, low-lying places, seedlings easily die. Garden value: ornamental peach has large flowers and brilliant color, is beautiful when blooming, and has an ornamental period of as long as 15 days. In landscaping, it is widely used by lakesides, streams, roadsides, and parks, etc., and in small-scale greening projects such as courtyard greening accents and private gardens, it is also used for potted appreciation, and is also often used for cut flowers and making bonsai. A common form is also the weeping ornamental peach. Ornamental peach has a wide range of landscaping uses and outstanding greening effects, and shows particularly good results in the same year of planting. It can be planted in rows, in groups, or as specimens, and shows particularly good greening effects in the same year. Ornamental peach is one of the commonly used colorful nursery stock in landscaping, and is usually used together with nursery stock such as purple-leaf plum and purple-leaf dwarf cherry. When combined with flowering shrubs, it forms a scene of a hundred flowers blooming together. Besides ornamental value, it also has medicinal value. The gum secreted from the peach trunk, commonly known as peach gum, can be used as an adhesive, etc. It is a kind of polysaccharide substance, and hydrolysis can produce arabinose, galactose, xylose, rhamnose, glucuronic acid, and so on. It is edible and also used medicinally, with the effects of breaking blood stasis, harmonizing blood, and benefiting qi. Diseases and pests often occur in summer and autumn. Its main diseases include: white rust and brown rot, shot hole disease, anthracnose, gummosis, and leaf curl disease. The main pests include aphids, red spider mites, scale insects, and red-necked longhorn beetles, etc.
Artificial plant communities
1. Satsuki azalea + red loropetalum + golden-edged euonymus + thornless holly ball
These four plants have strong adaptability and are relatively widely planted in Fuzhou. Three foliage-color plants are planted linearly, giving rich leaf color, and together with large-specification thornless holly balls, they form a neat, full, and clearly layered roadside greening color-band effect.
2. Red loropetalum + red-tip photinia ball + banana shrub + Japanese maple
Red loropetalum itself is widely planted in Fujian and has good adaptability, and its leaf color and flower color are both beautiful, while the old leaves of the red-tip photinia ball are green and accented by red new leaves, setting each other off and looking extremely beautiful. The combination of the four plants is richly layered and forms a landscape road with vertical rhythm, spatial layering, and a strong sense of guidance.
3. Red loropetalum + Japanese fatsia + Canary Island date palm + frangipani
This combination of several plants is,, mainly green, with both small leaves (red loropetalum) and large coarse leaves (Japanese fatsia, frangipani), while the Canary Island date palm adds a bit of tropical flavor. The layers are rich, and it has the effect of reducing space, making people feel close to it.
4. Moso bamboo + iris
Moso bamboo is very suitable for planting in Fuzhou. It is a scattered bamboo, with spacing between the culms. Iris has a graceful posture and gorgeous, varied flower colors. The two combined together are very charming.
5. Small-leaf gardenia + red loropetalum + Japanese aucuba + osmanthus
Small-leaf gardenia has leaves like a sparrow's tongue and a low plant form, and can be used as the lowest-layer plant. Japanese aucuba has yellow spots in its leaf color and is a relatively good foliage plant, while the tree osmanthus has a subtle fragrance that refreshes the heart. The combination has both density and spacing, changes in leaf color, and the addition of floral fragrance.
6. Azalea + red loropetalum + fagraea + canna
The flowers of azalea are gorgeous, and with red loropetalum and fagraea as a backdrop, they are even more moving. Canna has large coarse leaves, reducing space and making people feel close.
7. Groundcover lawn + marigold + red-tip photinia + red loropetalum ball + orange osmanthus
With green groundcover as the base, the yellow gorgeous flowers of marigold are extremely beautiful. Behind the marigold, red loropetalum and red photinia serve as a backdrop, and the orange osmanthus tree form spreads. The several plants set each other off and are richly varied.
8. Dwarf lilyturf + guava tree
Both dwarf lilyturf and guava tree have very good adaptability in Fuzhou and grow normally. The leaves of dwarf lilyturf are fine and soft, making it very suitable as groundcover,, and the guava tree has smooth yellow bark, a graceful posture, and relatively large leaves with well-spaced density, making it very suitable for an open woodland path.
9. Grass + silver-edged agave + pruned and shaped banyan tree + yellow-flowered double-podded cassia
With green grass as the base, agave has thick large leaves, and its leaf color is silver-yellow alternating with green. Combined with the pruned and shaped banyan tree, it is very harmonious, while the yellow-flowered double-podded cassia has a beautiful posture and gorgeous flower color. This combination of several plants is richly layered, with color changes that are nevertheless harmonious.
10. Liriope + broadleaf lady palm + areca palm + papaya tree
This plant configuration is suitable for one side of a small building. Liriope has a fine, soft leaf shape, while broadleaf lady palm and areca palm have thicker, larger leaves, and papaya has large palmate leaves, with its fruit borne on the trunk, and its posture is very graceful.
11. Copperleaf + Duranta erecta + red loropetalum
As a plant combination for a carpet flower bed, copperleaf has bright leaf color and serves as the edge, Duranta erecta has yellow-green leaf color, and red loropetalum has dark purple leaf color. The combination of the three plants as a carpet flower bed is extremely attractive.
Part Two: "Maintenance Plan 4"
Landscaping maintenance and management plan
Maintenance and management are very important in landscaping. It is a long-term, repeated task with relatively comprehensive technical requirements, including damage by people and animals, sanitation and cleaning, pruning of flowers, grass, and trees, watering and fertilizing, pest and disease control, and planting of flower bed flowers. The completion of green space does not mean the completion of the landscape. People often say "three parts planting, seven parts management." Only with high-quality, high-level maintenance and management can the landscape gradually take shape and become perfect.
Current characteristics of the plants in the maintenance area:
1. The green area covers about 24,541,900 sq m, and the green coverage rate is high. There are large numbers of trees of different specifications and varieties and pruned and shaped shrubs, and the early growth has gradually taken shape. After careful investigation, the plant planting characteristics can be roughly divided into two areas according to the original master plan:
1) Plaza area: The plant planting style in this area is relatively open. The plaza is mainly planted with ginkgo, nanmu, and large trees in
rows, appropriately combined with low shrubs, and the overall space is relatively transparent.
2) Factory area: The plant species combination in this area is complex. Large and small trees, shrubs, and groundcover plants are interplanted,
and the entrance is mainly planted with relatively precious large plants (Canary Island date palm, jacaranda, small-leaf banyan stump,
premium osmanthus, etc.). Whether the office-area courtyard can still maintain its elegant, refined, spacious,
and grand scenery, and whether the hotel villa-area courtyard can still carry forward its delicate, gentle, leisurely,
and relaxed atmosphere all depends on later maintenance and management.
2. From the greening conditions in the vertical area, we can find the following problems: 1) Shaped shrubs grow poorly, with monotonous shapes; 2) Flowering shrubs have poor tree vigor, and their flowering condition (including number of flowers, flower size, color, and reblooming) is unsatisfactory; 3) There are many weeds in the lawn, and in local areas grass weeds have a tendency to run rampant; 4) Pests and diseases are present.
I. We plan to take the following rectification measures:
1. Promote three-dimensional gardening and carry out varied and graceful shaping of hedges and shrubs. For flowering shrubs planted as accents, take growth-promoting measures to promote their growth and then shape them according to their form. This depends on the specific plant's growth vigor and plant shape; the hedges in local areas are highly regular, and the neat, uniform long strips undoubtedly make the courtyard, which should be free and leisurely, appear mechanical and rigid. Similarly, you can try pruning them into wavy shapes to match the relaxed and casual landscaping of the residential area, enlivening the atmosphere of the entire courtyard and also creating a more flowing living environment.
2. Begin pest and disease control immediately. For plants showing signs of pest or disease damage, carry out large-scale chemical treatment at once.
3、
4、
5. For lawn weeds, apply herbicides and increase the manpower devoted to manual weeding. For different plants, implement different maintenance and management plans (mainly fertilizer supply: base fertilizer, top dressing, foliar fertilizer; different plants and different seasons all require different fertilization methods and fertilizer choices). Plant labeling. We classify and tally all the plants, then make green labels indicating their
family and genus, species, and growth habits, and label all the plants in the area. This can
enrich the staff's general knowledge of plants, add to the cultural atmosphere of the park, and, with eye-catching labels,
draw more attention to the greenery.
6. Greenery maintenance is not something accomplished overnight. While carrying out rectification work, we will likewise
adopt different maintenance and management measures for different plants at different times. We arrange our daily work by month
(detailed rules attached below), striving to make our work bring the landscape effect in the blueprint to its fullest, and
we also ask the client to offer more suggestions, so that our work can gradually become more and more perfect.
7. Maintenance responsibilities
Within the contract maintenance period, our company, in accordance with garden greenery maintenance operating procedures and garden greenery maintenance quality standards, organizes rationally, maintains meticulously, and dispatches professional horticulturists to organize, guide and arrange the management and protection work, and flexibly dispatches no fewer than experienced workers according to the weather in each season and plant growth conditions, to complete the maintenance management tasks with guaranteed quality and quantity.
VI. Maintenance content
1. Management procedures: including watering, opening planting holes and earthing up, pruning, fertilizing, weeding, pruning and bud removal, pest and disease control, straightening, replanting (seedling costs calculated separately), and the entire process. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.
2. Management tools:
A. Flower shears, long shears, high-altitude shears, grass shovels, lawn mowers
B. Sprayers, buckets, dump carts, bamboo baskets
C. Shovels, hoes, saws, electric saws, ladders
D. Fuel, repair costs
3. Maintenance content:
A. Trees: apply organic fertilizer once a year, 0.25 kg of cake fertilizer per tree, and top-dress once, 0.1 kg of compound fertilizer mixed with urea per tree, using hole application, spraying, water-fertilizer, etc., then cover with soil, water thoroughly, with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm, control pests and diseases in time, keep the trees in their natural growth state, no shaping pruning needed, promptly cut off yellow branches, pest- and disease-damaged branches, shaded leggy branches and drooping branches that obstruct vehicle passage, and promptly clean up all pruned material. Clear weeds around the tree roots once a week, ensuring no weeds.
B. Shrubs, hedges, bagged seedlings: fertilize once a quarter, apply 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, using broadcasting and water-fertilizer, etc., water once within three hours after application, water once a day (except on rainy days), with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm, control pests and diseases in time, trim into round, square or conical shapes, with minor pruning once a week and major pruning once a month, with smooth, attractive cut surfaces, promptly remove pruned material, promptly cut off dead branches and pest- and disease-damaged branches, promptly replant old, diseased and dead plants, and clear weeds once a week.
C. Herbaceous plants: fertilize once a quarter, apply 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, using broadcasting and water-fertilizer, etc., water once within three hours after application, water once a day (except on rainy days), with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm, control pests and diseases in time, cut off spent flowers once a week and clear weeds once a week, and promptly cut off dead and yellow branches.
D. Taiwan grass: fertilize once a quarter, apply 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, fertilize evenly, water thoroughly, with water penetration depth of more than 5 cm, control pests and diseases in time, promptly replant wilted and dead damaged parts, with coverage rate above 98%, and prune 1-2 times a month.
(II) Specific arrangements for a year of garden maintenance work:
January: the month with the lowest temperatures of the year, when open-field trees are in a dormant state.
1. Winter pruning: fully carry out shaping and pruning work on deciduous trees; prune dead branches, damaged branches, pest- and disease-damaged branches on large and small trees, as well as branches that interfere with overhead lines and buildings.
2. Street tree inspection: promptly inspect the tying and staking of street trees, and immediately rectify any loosened ties, wire girdling of bark, or unstable stakes.
3. Pest control: winter is a favorable season for eliminating garden pests. You can dig out the pupae and cocoons of the slug moth in the loose soil under the trees and burn them in a concentrated manner. In mid-January, scale insects begin to become active, but at this time they move slowly, so we can adopt the method of scraping the larvae off the tree trunks. Controlling pests in winter often yields twice the result with half the effort.
4. Green space maintenance: in green spaces, flower beds and other areas, pay attention to removing large weeds; lawns should be weeded and edged in time; in green spaces, pay attention to antifreeze watering.
February: temperatures rise somewhat compared with last month, and trees are still in a dormant state.
1. Maintenance is basically the same as in January.
2. Pruning: continue pruning dead and diseased branches of large and small trees. Finish pruning all kinds of trees before the end of the month.
3. Pest control: continue to focus on controlling the slug moth and scale insects.
March: temperatures continue to rise, trees begin to sprout after mid-month, and in late March some trees (such as camellia) bloom.
1. Tree planting: spring is a favorable time for planting trees. After the soil thaws, immediately seize the opportunity to plant trees. Before planting large and small trees, do a good job of planning and design, dig (or hoe) the tree pits in advance, and ensure digging, transporting, planting and watering are done in sequence without delay. When planting shrubs, also ensure digging, transporting and planting in sequence, and water fully, to increase the seedling survival rate.
2. Spring irrigation: because spring is dry and windy with high evaporation, to prevent spring drought, water green spaces and other areas in time.
3. Fertilization: after the soil thaws, apply base fertilizer to plants and irrigate. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.
4. Pest and disease control: this month is a critical time for pest and disease control. Some seedlings have developed sooty mold, and the boxwood leaf roller (Glyphodes perspectalis) has also appeared (use pesticides such as fenitrothion spray for control). For slug moth control, the method of digging out pupae can continue to be used.
April: temperatures continue to rise, and trees all sprout, bloom, or unfold leaves and begin to enter a period of vigorous growth.
1. Continue planting trees: in early April, seize the time to plant trees that sprout late, promptly pull out and replant shrubs that died in winter (azaleas, red loropetalum, etc.), and water newly planted trees fully.
2. Irrigation: continue to water maintained green spaces in time.
3. Fertilization: for lawns and shrubs, combine with irrigation and apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer as top dressing, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.
4. Pruning: cut off branches that dried up in winter and spring, and evergreen hedges can be pruned.
5. Pest and disease control: (1) After the second molting, scale insects successively move into bark cracks, tree holes, tree trunk bases, wall corners and other places, secreting white waxy thin cocoons and pupating. They can be swept away with a hard bamboo broom, then buried deep or soaked in a concentrated manner. Alternatively, pesticides such as fenitrothion can be sprayed. (2) Longhorn beetles have begun to be active; you can use a grafting knife or self-made steel wire to remove the larvae, but the wound should be as small as possible. (3) Control of other pests and diseases.
6. Maintenance within green spaces: pay attention to removing weeds and climbing plants in large green spaces. Lawns should also be weeded and edged.
May: temperatures rise sharply, and trees grow rapidly.
1. Watering: during the peak leaf-unfolding period, trees have a very high water demand, so water in time.
2. Pruning: prune spent flowers. Street trees undergo their first bud-removal pruning.
3. Pest and disease control: continue to focus on catching longhorn beetles. The first generation of slug moths hatches, but has not yet reached a harmful level; make corresponding measures according to the actual situation in the maintenance area. Sooty mold caused by scale insects, aphids, etc., has also entered its peak period (on crape myrtle, pittosporum, oleander, etc.). In mid- and late May, spray 10?20 times rosin mixture and 50% parathion emulsion at 1500?2000 times dilution to control diseases and kill pests. (Other pesticides such as insecticidal antibiotics and Huabao can also be used.)
June: high temperatures
1. Watering: plants have a high water demand, so water in time and do not "leave things to chance."
2. Fertilization: combine loosening the soil and weeding, fertilizing, and watering to achieve the best results.
3. Pruning: continue bud removal and sucker removal work on street trees. Carry out pruning on hedges, ball-shaped plants and some flowering shrubs. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.
4. Drainage work: in heavy rain weather, pay attention to drainage in low-lying areas.
5. Pest and disease control: in mid- and late June, slug moths enter their peak hatching period, and measures should be taken in time. At present, spraying 50% fenitrothion emulsion at 500?800 times dilution is basically used. (Or spray compound BT emulsion.) Continue manual capture of longhorn beetles.
6. Do a good job of pre-flood and pre-typhoon inspection of trees, and straighten, reinforce and re-tie loose or tilted trees.
July: the highest temperatures, with strong winds and heavy rain after mid-month.
1. Transplanting evergreen trees: during the rainy season, with sufficient moisture, conifers and bamboos can be transplanted, but pay attention to weather changes, and water in time once high temperatures occur.
2. Drainage: drain water in time after heavy rain.
3. Top dressing: before rain, apply quick-acting fertilizers such as nitrogen fertilizer dry.
4. Street trees: carry out typhoon-prevention bud-removal pruning, prune all branches that conflict with power lines, and inspect tree stakes one by one, immediately straightening and tying tightly any that are loose or unstable. Prepare in advance in terms of labor organization, materials, tools and equipment, and send people to inspect at any time, handling dangerous situations promptly when found.
5. Pest and disease control: continue controlling longhorn beetles and slug moths. For longhorn beetle control, 50% fenitrothion at 1:50 dilution can be injected (or fruit tree treasure, or Yuanke No. 3), then seal the opening, which can also achieve very good results. The camphor tree nest moth should be pruned out in time, and the worm nests destroyed, to avoid repeated damage.
August: still the rainy season
1. Drainage: after heavy rain, drain water in time from low-lying waterlogged areas.
2. Typhoon prevention work for street trees: continue doing a good job of typhoon prevention for street trees.
3. Pruning: in addition to general summer pruning of trees, carry out shaping pruning of hedges.
4. Cultivation and weeding: weeds also grow vigorously, so weed in time, and fertilization can be combined with weeding.
5. Pest and disease control: focus on catching longhorn beetles, and pay attention to catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Aphid damage and camphor tree nest moth should be controlled in time. In humid weather, pay attention to powdery mildew and rot, and take measures in time. September: temperatures decline somewhat; do relevant work well for National Day.
1. Pruning: in preparation for city appearance work, remove buds below the third branching level of street trees. Shape-prune hedges. Weed in green spaces, edge lawns, promptly clear dead trees, and ensure trees have green branches and leaves and green spaces are clean and tidy.
2. Fertilization: for some trees that grow weakly and whose branches are not sufficiently full, apply some phosphorus and potassium fertilizer as top dressing.
3. Pest and disease control: shot hole disease (cherry blossoms, peaches, plums, etc.) is at its peak; use 500% carbendazim at 1000 times dilution to prevent infection. Longhorn beetles begin to turn to the roots for damage; pay attention to catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Also promptly control wood borers on poplars and willows. Do a good job of controlling other pests and diseases.
4. Before the holiday, do a good job of inspecting all kinds of greenery facilities.
October: temperatures drop; in late October it enters early winter, trees begin to shed leaves and successively enter the dormant period.
1. Prepare well for autumn tree planting; in late October, once cold-tolerant trees shed their leaves, planting can begin.
2. Green space maintenance: promptly remove dead trees and water in time. Weed and edge green spaces and lawns well. Fertilize flowering plants that are growing poorly.
3. Pest and disease control: continue catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Also pay attention to observing and controlling the camphor tree nest moth. November: the soil begins to freeze at night and thaw during the day, entering deep winter.
1. Tree planting: continue planting cold-tolerant plants, finishing before the soil freezes.
2. Turning the soil: turn the soil in green spaces to expose pests preparing to overwinter.
3. Watering: water dry, hardened soil, and finish before the freeze sets in.
4. Pest and disease control: various pests prepare to overwinter in late November, so the control task is relatively light.
December: low temperatures; begin winter maintenance work.
1. Winter pruning: prune some evergreen trees and shrubs.
2. Eliminate overwintering pests and diseases.
3. Prepare well for next year's adjustment work: after deciduous plants shed their leaves, observe the maintenance area and map out the positions to be adjusted.
VII. Green space maintenance quality objectives
1 Greenery maintenance technical measures are complete, management is proper, and the goal of no exposed loess is achieved.
2 Garden plants
2.1 Growth is normal. Various plants in newly built green spaces reach normal form within three years; if plants or grass are damaged or die due to poor management, the replanted seedlings survive within one year.
2.2 Garden trees have basically complete crowns, with main and lateral branches evenly distributed, appropriate in number, and reasonably pruned, with an uncluttered interior and good ventilation and light penetration. Flowering shrubs bloom in time and normally, and are pruned in time after flowering. Hedges and color blocks have normal branches and leaves and are neat and uniform. Street trees have no missing plants, and there are no dead trees in green spaces.
2.3 Deciduous trees have normal new shoot growth, and normal leaf size and color. Under general conditions, yellow leaves, scorched leaves, curled leaves and leaves with insect excrement or webs must not exceed 5%, and the preservation rate of normal leaves is above 90%. Coni-
Part Three: "Annual Greenery Maintenance Plan"
Annual Greenery Maintenance Plan
January
1. Carry out winter shaping and pruning on various deciduous trees, cutting off dead branches, overlapping branches, crossing branches, pest- and disease-damaged branches, and lower lateral branches, to ensure that tree development tends toward rationality, improve branch form, and reduce the breeding of pests and diseases.
2. Appropriately thin out trees that are too densely growing, which can reduce pests and diseases and increase growth.
3. Carry out winter plowing and soil turning to improve the soil, and carry out winter fertilization on all trees, ground cover and lawns, to ensure the nutrient needs of seedlings and lawns.
4. Winter is a favorable season for eliminating garden pests. You can dig out the pupae and cocoons of the slug moth in the loose soil under the trees and burn them in a concentrated manner.
5. As circumstances require, scarify individual lawn types, and prune 1-2 times. February
1. Carry out weeding, pruning and fertilization work on lawns.
2. Do a good job of pest and disease control, especially paying attention to powdery mildew on narrow-leaved mahonia and the scale insect on coral and Japanese fatsia.
3. In particular, strengthen antifreeze and heat-preservation measures for trees, and do a good job of loosening and earthing up the soil around tree roots.
4. For cool-season lawns, apply a top dressing (urea) of 10g/mu at the end of the month.
March
1. To prevent spring drought, water trees in time.
2. Lawns should be mowed and weeded in time, and winter grass in tree beds and flower beds should be cleared.
3. Pest and disease control: strengthen observation and patrol, and do a good job of forecasting, early warning and control. In particular, pay special attention to sooty mold and the boxwood leaf roller. In mid-March, crape myrtle scale eggs hatch; from late March, pear rust occurs on crabapples and cold-season lawns; pay attention to prevention and reporting.
4. For local depressions and low-lying spots that appear in lawns, carry out earthing up and sand covering, and carry out low pruning on winter ryegrass lawns to ensure the sprouting and growth of the underlying grass.
April
1. Do a good job of loosening the soil, weeding and pre-flowering fertilization for field-planted flowers and trees. In particular, apply light fertilizer to perennial flowers and spring-sown flowering plants, and for lawns and shrubs, combine with irrigation and apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer as top dressing, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.
2. Cut off branches that dried up in winter and spring, and begin pruning evergreen hedges.
3. Pest and disease control: mainly control aphids, sooty mold and beetles. Keep relevant records.
May
1. This month is the peak leaf-unfolding period for trees, with a very high water demand, so water in time.
2. Prune spring flowering shrubs such as osmanthus and hall crabapple, and promptly carry out bud removal work on plane trees, red-leaf plum, crape myrtle and other trees.
3. Hoe weeds in flower beds and shrub color blocks. At the same time, carry out weeding work on lawns, and prune lawn grass in time to control its height.
4. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting, early warning and control.
June
1. Water plants in time to ensure sufficient water supply for plants.
2. Loosen the soil and hoe weeds in tree beds and color-block shrubs, and carry out weeding work on lawns.
3. Lawns should be pruned in time, and their growth height controlled, and attention paid to controlling the occurrence of large-scale pests and diseases. Apply compound fertilizer once more to lawns that grow poorly or lack fertilizer, so that they can safely pass the summer.
4. Pest and disease control: carry out forecasting, early warning and control work.
July
1. In hot weather, it is especially important to ensure that watering of plants is carried out.
2. Loosen the soil and weed the flower beds and colour-block shrubs, and at the same time carry out hand-weeding of ground cover. This month the weather is hot, with high temperatures and relatively high humidity, and weeds grow quickly; seize the opportunity to carry out weeding and hand-weeding to prevent weeds from running wild, and continue inter-row cultivation, weeding and loosening of the soil.
3. Earnestly carry out typhoon and flood prevention work: reinforce and secure the trees in the garden to prevent them from toppling; promptly clear and drain low-lying or seriously waterlogged areas.
4. Pest and disease control: carry out forecasting, early warning and control work.
August
1. Carry out summer pruning of evergreen trees, and shape-prune hedges.
2. Lawn weeds grow vigorously, so weed and mow promptly to control lawn height, and fertiliser can be applied together with weeding. Promptly apply supplementary and top-dressing fertiliser, mainly P and K fertiliser together with N fertiliser; for young saplings, shrubs and herbaceous flowers, apply light fertiliser frequently, and at the same time pay attention to the timing of fertilisation and the weather.
3. In hot weather, the daily watering and drought-relief work must be ensured, and it must not be done between 10:00 and 15:00, so as to avoid scorching the seedlings. (Including: tree bed maintenance, weed control, soil loosening, etc.)
4. Continue typhoon and flood prevention work: further reinforce and secure large trees in residential areas to prevent them from toppling; and promptly clear drainage ditches in low-lying, easily waterlogged places to prevent water from standing for too long.
5. Pest and disease control: carry out forecasting, early warning and control work.
September
1. Carry out shape pruning of hedges. Weed green areas and promptly remove dead trees, so that tree branches are green and leaves lush and the green areas are clean and tidy.
2. Thin out trees that are growing too densely, and at the same time carry out bud removal.
3. Lawns should be mown, edged and cleared of weeds promptly, and attention should be paid to pest and disease control.
4. Weed the flower beds and colour-block shrubs, and at the same time carry out hand-weeding of ground cover, and collect flower seeds.
5. Pest and disease control: carry out forecasting, early warning and control work.
October
1. Prune spherical shrubs to ensure an attractive appearance, neatness and clearly defined layers. Prune the tree form of evergreen trees so that their growth and development tend towards the rational and their tree posture and appearance are improved.
2. Strengthen management of newly planted herbaceous flowers, promptly fill in bare gaps and water, and apply fertiliser to those growing poorly.
3. Pest and disease control: carry out forecasting and early warning work, actively control pests and diseases, and keep relevant records. November
1. Carry out thinning and pruning of evergreen trees and evergreen shrubs, mainly to improve ventilation and light penetration, reduce pests and diseases, and enhance growth vigour.
2. Carry out hand-weeding and edging in flower beds, colour-block shrub areas and green areas, promptly pull out weeds, and promptly replant bare gaps. As circumstances require, adjust the trees in the local layout; some evergreen trees and a few deciduous tree species may be transplanted. Also begin cold-protection and warmth-preservation work; for trees with
poor cold resistance, carry out straw wrapping and earthing up.
3. Strengthen maintenance and management of newly planted plants, taking care to water promptly and prune appropriately. As circumstances require, scarify and aerate the lawn, and at the same time mow 2-3 times.
4. Carry out fertilisation in the latter part of this month, and carry out soil turning in green areas together with the additional application of organic fertiliser.
5. Pest and disease control: carry out forecasting and early warning work, actively control pests and diseases, and keep relevant records. December
1. Carry out hand-weeding and edging in colour-block shrub areas and green areas, and promptly pull out weeds.
2. Carry out thinning and pruning of evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs, mainly to remove stubs and dead branches, so that the trees grow better the following year (flowering shrubs that have already formed flower buds must not be pruned); at the same time, pay attention to clearing cocoons of pests on trunks and branches.
3. Wrap sago palms, date palms and other southern plants with straw rope to ensure they survive the winter safely.
4. Pest and disease control: carry out forecasting and early warning work, actively control pests and diseases, and keep relevant records.
Section Four: "The Latest Commonly Used Plants in Southern Landscaping"
Commonly used garden plants in southern landscaping
Evergreen trees:
Norfolk Island pine, slash pine, China fir, Caribbean pine, Chinese weeping cypress, mahogany, big-leaf mahogany, Sterculia lanceolata, Chinese saraca, sugar apple, longan, Dracontomelon duperreanum, Michelia macclurei, golden shower tree, Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, Fujian cypress, Buddhist pine, Japanese cedar, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus nagi), large-leaf podocarpus, white champaca, southern magnolia, houpo magnolia, Cinnamomum burmannii, camphor tree, cinnamon, Paulownia kawakamii, Hainan ormosia, Taiwan acacia, Siamese senna, red camel's foot tree, camel's foot tree, Bauhinia purpurea, almond, mango, Ormosia henryi, Cleistocalyx operculatus, Elaeocarpus hainanensis, avocado, Alstonia scholaris, Archontophoenix alexandrae, Chinese fan palm, fishtail palm, Queen palm, rose apple, Syzygium hainanense, sapodilla, lemon-scented gum, Timor white gum, flooded gum, blue gum, paperbark tree, Cleidiocarpon cavaleriei, Chinese torreya, Chinese plum yew, Indian rubber fig, banyan, small-leaf fig, large-fruited fig, weeping fig, Ficus virens, sacred fig, beefwood, jackfruit, Acer cinnamomifolium, Castanopsis sclerophylla, oriental white oak, candlenut, silver banksia, Elaeocarpus apiculatus, big-leaf elaeocarpus, sea hibiscus, Ilex rotunda, glossy privet, sweet osmanthus, loquat, Albizia falcataria, royal palm, Caryota urens, Washingtonia, Arenga pinnata, Phoenix loureiroi, Bishop wood, red sandalwood, Dillenia indica, jackfruit, yellow sophora, jackfruit, large-leaf privet, Michelia chapensis, Schefflera octophylla, Heteropanax fragrans
Deciduous trees:
Terminalia mantaly, Chinese swamp cypress, water (Saurauia tristyla), Chinese tallow, Japanese raisin tree, sand pear, soapberry, goldenrain tree, frangipani, bald cypress, pond cypress, Chinese tulip tree, white magnolia, Chinese parasol tree, sawtooth oak, cork oak, Chinese hackberry, Chinese elm, white oak, happy tree, large-flowered crape myrtle, Ceiba speciosa, flamboyant tree, Caesalpinia pulcherrima, Jacaranda mimosifolia, yellow sophora, chinaberry, China mahogany, coral tree, cockspur coral tree, chestnut, silk tree, sweet acacia, Kalopanax septemlobus, sweetgum, weeping willow, Magnolia soulangeana, purple-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, papaya, Indian
red sandalwood, red-leaf plum
Evergreen shrubs:
Sago palm, Chinese plum yew, Aglaia odorata, big-leaf box, Elaeagnus pungens, camellia sasanqua, Odontonema, spotted aucuba, St. John's wort, Areca triandra, areca palm, Chuniophoenix, Aglaia odorata, golden trumpet, Justicia gendarussa, crimson bottlebrush, Fukien tea, gardenia, crown of thorns, poinsettia, Jasminum mesnyi, Japanese aucuba, Chinese holly, Rhododendron obtusum, Cordyline fruticosa, croton, red mulberry, golden-edged mulberry, golden-leaf fig, Senna tora, Rhododendron ovatum, Ardisia japonica, orange jasmine, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, ylang-ylang vine, camellia, oil tea, large-leaf tea, oleander, yellow oleander, small-flowered golden trumpet, Serissa japonica, banana shrub, Pittosporum tobira, Mahonia fortunei, heavenly bamboo, Japanese fatsia, Magnolia coco, hibiscus, Chinese lantern flower, azalea, yucca, Yucca smalliana, South China box, Rhapis excelsa, Phoenix roebelenii, dwarf fishtail palm, dwarf lady palm, bamboo palm,
golden banyan, fiddle-leaf fig, willow-leaf fig, Odontonema callistachyum, Schefflera octophylla, Duranta erecta variegata, Duranta erecta 'Golden Leaves', Justicia gendarussa, golden-leaf privet, taro, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, snake plant, Rhaphiolepis indica var. umbellata, variegated hibiscus, Euphorbia cotinifolia, small-leaf box, African jasmine, Brunfelsia, shrimp plant, Crinum asiaticum, spider lily, Calliandra, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Brugmansia suaveolens, white mussaenda, red mussaenda, hairy azalea, Western azalea, Senna bicapsularis, Tecomaria capensis, rose myrtle, Ixora chinensis, Jasminum mesnyi, jasmine, Euphorbia cotinifolia, Plumbago auriculata, blue star flower, Oxalis triangularis, heavenly bamboo, pepper tree, Excoecaria cochinchinensis,
Deciduous shrubs:
Cotton rose, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea prunifolia, modern rose, Abelia chinensis, pomegranate, Callicarpa bodinieri, Magnolia liliiflora, Lespedeza bicolor, Lonicera maackii, Hydrangea macrophylla, rose of Sharon, redbud, Prunus japonica, Spiraea prunifolia, pearl flower, butterfly tree, elderberry, fig, Sichuan pepper, trifoliate orange, butterfly bush, Ligustrum sinense
Climbing plants:
Monstera deliciosa, bougainvillea, Millettia reticulata, orange trumpet vine, Rangoon creeper, Akebia trifoliata, honeysuckle, Euonymus fortunei, climbing fig, kiwi, Euonymus fortunei, Hong Kong Rhaphidophora, Mucuna birdwoodiana, wax plant, Epipremnum pinnatum, pothos, star jasmine, Chinese ivy, English ivy, Schisandra chinensis, Boston ivy, Chinese trumpet creeper, passion fruit, Lagerstroemia indica, Mucuna sempervirens, Thunbergia grandiflora
ylang-ylang vine, Thunbergia grandiflora, Rangoon creeper, coral vine, Boston ivy, orange trumpet vine, Mucuna birdwoodiana, Clerodendrum speciosissimum, wisteria, climbing fig, cypress vine, morning glory, Ipomoea cairica, snake vine, Jasminum officinale, Aristolochia gigantea, garlic vine, wood rose, Bignonia capreolata, passion flower
Bamboo:
Bambusa textilis, Bambusa chungii, moso bamboo, fernleaf hedge bamboo, Phyllostachys glauca, Bambusa vulgaris 'Vittata', Bambusa emeiensis, Bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus amarus, Indocalamus tessellatus, Buddha belly bamboo, Dendrocalamus latiflorus, Bambusa textilis, Thai bamboo, Bambusa pervariabilis, Chimonobambusa quadrangularis, green bamboo, Bambusa multiplex 'Riviereorum', Bambusa multiplex 'Alphonse Karr', red bamboo
Lawn and ground cover plants:
Bermuda grass, Chinese zoysia, fine-leaf zoysia, carpet grass, centipede grass, knotgrass, Manila grass, zoysia grass, Guangdong evergreen, purple spiderwort, (Rhoeo spathacea), lilyturf, large-leaf curculigo, Liriope, lucky plant, Aspidistra elatior, black-eyed Susan vine, Acorus gramineus, autumn zephyr lily, Chinese chive lily, golden spider lily, white butterfly, butterfly flower, red-flowered oxalis, inch plant,
Calathea roseopicta, Syngonium podophyllum, white butterfly syngonium, pothos, inch plant, sword fern, aluminum plant, small oyster plant, peace lily, silver-edged lilyturf, red-flowered lantana, yellow-flowered lantana, purple-flowered lantana,
lantana, dusty miller, bleeding heart vine, shrimp flower, firecracker plant, asparagus fern, beach evening primrose, beach morning glory, English ivy, star jasmine, ginger lily, umbrella plant, papyrus, iris, purple loosestrife, narcissus, lotus, water lily, Wedelia trilobata, red-flowered oxalis, Brazilian peanut vine, dichondra, purple amaranth, round-leaf amaranth, coleus, fine-leaf verbena, red-green grass, autumn zephyr lily, Chinese chive lily, amaryllis, lily, calla lily, periwinkle, centipede grass, Manila grass, Korean velvet grass, Bermuda grass, large-leaf carpet grass, variegated grass, bahia grass, dwarf lilyturf
Palms:
Royal palm, Washington palm, triangle palm, king palm, foxtail palm, Butia palm, bottle palm, club palm, Middle Eastern date palm, Canary Island date palm, Bismarck palm, oil palm, Caryota urens, windmill palm, dragon-scale palm, Chinese fan palm, Queen palm, fishtail palm, Queen palm, Washingtonia, Phoenix canariensis, dwarf fishtail palm, large fishtail palm, areca palm, Areca triandra, traveller's palm, lady palm,
Seasonal flowers
Pentas, African impatiens, four-season begonia, scarlet sage, petunia, hybrid dianthus, ornamental kale, French marigold, African marigold, nasturtium, pansy, wishbone flower, cockscomb, pot marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, Portulaca grandiflora, Portulaca oleracea, cosmos, cineraria, spider flower, daylily, lavender, purple loosestrife
Section Five: "Examples of Southern Plant Combinations"
Southern plant combinations
Philodendron bipinnatifidum + Cyperus alternifolius + variegated shell ginger
Dracaena concinna + rainbow dracaena + heavenly bamboo + sword fern + ornamental stone
Royal palm + Caryota urens + Phoenix roebelenii + canna + coleus + croton
Royal palm + Canary Island date palm head + red dracaena + red mulberry + Ixora chinensis
Royal palm + Archontophoenix alexandrae + areca palm + large-leaf lady palm + golden leaf
Section Six: "Commonly Used Garden Plants in Southern China"
Commonly used plants for southern courtyards
I. Palms:
1. Royal palm 2. Archontophoenix alexandrae 3. Washington palm 4. Silver date palm 5. Canary Island date palm 6. Areca triandra
7. Chinese fan palm 8. Washingtonia 9. areca palm 10. lady palm (fine-leaf lady palm) 11. Queen palm 12. Phoenix roebelenii
II. Trees (street trees, shade trees):
1. Flamboyant tree 2. Kapok 3. Ceiba speciosa 4. Coral tree 5. Elaeocarpus apiculatus 6. Alstonia scholaris
7. Small-leaf fig 8. Elaeocarpus hainanensis 9. Mango 10. China mahogany 11. Cinnamomum burmannii 12. Lagerstroemia speciosa
13. Red sandalwood 14. Frangipani 15. Terminalia catappa 16. Traveller's palm 17. Pandanus tectorius 18. Bishop wood
19. Star fruit 20. Olea europaea subsp. cuspidata 21. Golden shower tree 22. Albizia falcataria 23. Paperbark tree
24. Eucalyptus 25. Syzygium hainanense 26. Aphanamixis grandifolia 27. Camel's foot tree 28. Mahogany
29. Banyan 30. Spathodea campanulata 31. Tabebuia chrysantha 32. Koelreuteria bipinnata
III. Flowering shrubs:
1. Four-season osmanthus 2. fine-leaf Bambusa multiplex 3. tree fern 4. golden banyan 5. bougainvillea
6. Yellow sophora 7. Crimson bottlebrush 8. golden-edged sisal 9. Hibiscus 10. Fagraea ceilanica 11. variegated fig
12. Hibiscus 13. Banana shrub 14. Lagerstroemia indica 15. Calliandra 16. Tabernaemontana divaricata 17. Ixora chinensis
18. Furcraea 19. Yucca 20. Orange trumpet vine 21. Yellow oleander 22. Polyscias
IV. Ground cover or colour blocks:
1. Pittosporum tobira 2. Monstera deliciosa 3. Pothos 4. Bird's nest fern 5. Red gem 6. Large-leaf alternanthera 7. Schefflera octophylla
8. Syngonium 'Pixie' 9. Golden leaf 10. Cuphea hyssopifolia 11. fine-leaf frog orchid 12. Calathea majestica 13. Hairy azalea
14. Dwarf Chinese fan palm 15. Philodendron bipinnatifidum 16. Duranta erecta variegata 17. Spider lily 18. Inch plant 19. Golden trumpet
20. Variegated shell ginger 21. Asparagus fern 22. Golden peanut 23. Dwarf Ixora chinensis 24. Sword fern 25. Pachystachys lutea
26. White butterfly 27. Aluminum plant 28. Dieffenbachia 29. Rainbow cordyline 30. Croton 31. Lilyturf
32. Silver-edged grass 33. Jasmine 34. Calathea zebrina 35. Taiwan grass 36. Large-leaf carpet grass
37. Manila grass 38. Bermuda grass 39. Ryegrass 40. Tall fescue
There are also some commonly used plants:
1. Sacred fig 2. Banyan 3. Elaeocarpus hainanensis 4. Yellow trumpet flower 5. National Day flower 6. Golden shower tree
7. Siamese senna 8. Sausage tree 9. Thai yellow golden flower ball 10. Golden melaleuca
11. Senna alata 12. Senna bicapsularis 13. Euphorbia milii 14. Cleistocalyx operculatus 15. Manglietia glauca
16. Hainan spotted gold 17. Variegated money tree 18. Hainan ormosia 19. Mahogany
20. Albizia falcataria 21. Sandalwood osmanthus 22. Autumn osmanthus 23. Bay laurel 24. Washingtonia 25. fine-leaf Bambusa multiplex
26. Indian yellow (purple) sandalwood 27. Red sandalwood 28. Dianella ensifolia 29. Leizhou fig 30. Markhamia cauda-felina
Commonly used garden plants in southern China
1. Evergreen trees
Norfolk Island pine, Cunningham's araucaria, Keteleeria, large-leaf araucaria, kauri, masson pine, slash pine, camphor tree, Cinnamomum japonicum, Eucalyptus grandis x urophylla, paperbark tree, rose apple, Syzygium hainanense, Bishop wood, Taiwan acacia, Acacia mangium, Acacia auriculiformis, red sandalwood, small-leaf fig, large-leaf fig, banyan, Ficus superba, Indian rubber fig, variegated Indian rubber fig, sacred fig, candlenut, mahogany, Dillenia, Alstonia scholaris, Terminalia catappa, Terminalia mantaly, jackfruit, wax apple, Dracontomelon duperreanum, sapodilla, China mahogany, beefwood, white champaca, Magnolia coco, Michelia macclurei, small-leaf elaeocarpus, southern magnolia, sea hibiscus, mango, longan, lychee, Chinese olive, loquat, bayberry, pomelo, Elaeocarpus hainanensis, Buddhist pine, dragon juniper, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus nagi), sweet osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, banana shrub, Aglaia odorata, camellia, weeping fig, Cleidiocarpon cavaleriei, Ficus tinctoria
2. Deciduous trees
Dawn redwood, pond cypress, bald cypress, Chinese swamp cypress, Chinese tulip tree, Chinese parasol tree, Bischofia polycarpa, Albizia falcataria, large-leaf albizia, Leucaena leucocephala, sweetgum, weeping willow, sausage tree, Anthocephalus chinensis, silver banksia, Chinese hackberry, soapberry, Chinese pistache, chinaberry, Chinese tallow, tung tree, ginkgo, Sterculia monosperma, persimmon, fig, mulberry, papaya, guava, red maple, sweet acacia
3. Palms
Archontophoenix alexandrae, royal palm, king palm, bottle palm, club palm, triangle palm, foxtail palm, Queen palm, oil palm, sugar palm, Washingtonia robusta, Washington palm, Canary Island date palm, Middle Eastern date palm, Iranian honey date palm, Chinese fan palm, Caryota urens, sugar palm, Phoenix loureiroi, Phoenix roebelenii, Areca triandra, green palm, fragrant palm, large fishtail palm, dwarf fishtail palm, areca palm, windmill palm, banana, traveller's palm, Cordyline fruticosa, lady palm, fine-leaf lady palm, Strelitzia nicolai, Philodendron erubescens, Alocasia
4. Foliage shrubs
Golden-leaf weeping fig, golden banyan, fiddle-leaf fig, willow-leaf fig, Garcinia subelliptica, variegated Arundo donax, Polyalthia longifolia, Pandanus tectorius, Pittosporum tobira, variegated hibiscus, sago palm, crimson bottlebrush, Cestrum nocturnum, Cotinus coggygria, Odontonema callistachyum, Japanese fatsia, creeping juniper, variegated cassava, heavenly bamboo, Schefflera octophylla, variegated Schefflera octophylla, pepper tree, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, red mulberry, Japanese lilac, Duranta erecta, Duranta erecta variegata, Duranta erecta 'Golden Leaves', orange jasmine, croton, croton 'Hainan', croton 'Aucubaefolia', croton 'Variegatum', Justicia gendarussa, Fukien tea, small-leaf box, golden-leaf privet, crown of thorns, yellow-striped Furcraea, Agave, silver-edged Agave, Yucca, Beaucarnea recurvata, Aspidistra elatior, snake plant, cactus, taro, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, variegated shell ginger, Scaevola taccada, Rhaphiolepis indica var. umbellata, Breynia disticha, Phyllanthus myrtifolius, modern rose
5. Flowering shrubs
African jasmine, Brunfelsia, Murraya paniculata, rose of Sharon, Hibiscus, Chinese lantern flower, Malvaviscus arboreus, poinsettia, Calliandra, bougainvillea, large-flowered gardenia, hydrangea, Pachystachys lutea, melastoma, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Brugmansia suaveolens, white mussaenda, red mussaenda, golden trumpet, Western azalea, Senna bicapsularis, Tecomaria capensis, rose myrtle, Ixora chinensis, Phoenix-tailed pearl, Jasminum mesnyi, jasmine, Crinum asiaticum,
spider lily, crab claw flower, dwarf canna, Reinwardtia indica, Euphorbia cotinifolia, Plumbago auriculata, blue star flower, Oxalis triangularis
6. Ground cover
Calathea roseopicta, Syngonium podophyllum, white butterfly syngonium, pothos, inch plant, sword fern, aluminum plant, small oyster plant, peace lily, lilyturf, silver-edged lilyturf, red-flowered lantana, yellow-flowered lantana, purple-flowered lantana, dusty miller, bleeding heart vine, shrimp flower, firecracker plant, asparagus fern, beach evening primrose, beach morning glory, English ivy, star jasmine, ginger lily, umbrella plant, papyrus, iris, purple loosestrife, narcissus, lotus, water lily, Wedelia trilobata, red-flowered oxalis, Brazilian peanut vine, dichondra, purple amaranth, round-leaf amaranth, coleus, fine-leaf verbena, red-green grass, autumn zephyr lily, Chinese chive lily, amaryllis, lily, calla lily, periwinkle, centipede grass, Manila grass, Korean velvet grass, Bermuda grass, large-leaf carpet grass, variegated grass, bahia grass, dwarf lilyturf
7. Vines
Thunbergia grandiflora, Rangoon creeper, coral vine, Boston ivy, orange trumpet vine, Mucuna birdwoodiana, Clerodendrum speciosissimum, wisteria, climbing fig, cypress vine, morning glory, Ipomoea cairica, snake vine, Jasminum officinale, Aristolochia gigantea, garlic vine, wood rose, Bignonia capreolata, passion flower
Section Seven: "Document on Commonly Used Plant Combinations in Southern China"
Practical Plant Combination Table — A Brief Table of Commonly Used Plant Combinations
Aquatic plants:
Wetland plants: Hankow willow, weeping willow, cotton willow, sand willow, Artemisia selengensis, Salix eriostachya, Populus simonii, Populus maximowiczii, Sabina vulgaris, Chinese juniper, Chinese arborvitae, dawn redwood, chinaberry, Chinese wingnut, Chinese ash, forsythia, elm, Siberian elm, Chinese elm, Chinese tallow, cherry blossom, eucommia, goldenrain tree, cotton rose, rose of Sharon, oleander, Boston ivy, grape, wisteria, amorpha, tamarisk, buttercup, water hyacinth grass, long-leaf alkali grass, marsh willow-leaf, willow-leaf grass, marsh woundwort, Chinese woundwort, mint, Mazus, speedwell, watercress, Scirpus, water wool grass, flat-stem Scirpus, Cyperus, flower-spike Cyperus, globe-spike Pycreus, red-scaled Pycreus, Juncus articulatus, small-flowered rush, small rush, fine rush, Polygonum aviculare, common knotgrass, red knotgrass, clustered knotgrass, dock-leaved knotgrass, willow-leaf smartweed, small arrow-leaf smartweed, Chinese knotweed, prickly smartweed, halberd-leaf smartweed, large halberd-leaf smartweed, Japanese knotweed, cogon grass, Calamagrostis, large-leaf reed, Beckmannia, long-awned brome, wild arundinella, Miscanthus sacchariflorus, Job's tears, Hemarthria, wet arrowhead,
Emergent plants: great bulrush, reed, lotus root, arrowhead, broad-leaf cottongrass, Alisma, lotus, purple loosestrife, cattail, Monochoria vaginalis, Monochoria korsakowii, Acorus calamus, pickerelweed, rice, mangrove (kandelia), narcissus, water dropwort, wild rice stem, taro, Marsilea quadrifolia, reed, water chestnut, Scirpus yagara, needle rush, Typha angustifolia, umbrella sedge, broad-leaf cattail
Floating plants: duckweed, water hyacinth, water lily, gorgon nut, Victoria amazonica, Nuphar, water hyacinth, Nymphoides, water shield, Utricularia, floating fern, Nymphoides,
Submerged plants: hornwort, water plantain
Colourful foliage plants:
Red or purple: sweetgum, lacquer tree, Japanese maple, Amur maple, Oriental bittersweet, red oak, trident maple, Chinese tallow tree, staghorn sumac, Chinese sumac, mountain ash, heavenly bamboo, winged euonymus, hawthorn, Chinese pistache, Chinese wingnut, barberry, Hubei hornbeam, Boston ivy
Golden yellow or yellowish brown: ginkgo, persimmon, goldenrain tree, tulip tree, Chinese parasol tree, elm, walnut, catalpa, dawn redwood, crape myrtle, Chinese elm, nanmu, wild jujube, kiwifruit, horse chestnut, Sorbus alnifolia, wintersweet, pomegranate, yellow cassia, witch hazel, soapberry, sweet acacia
Aromatic plants:
Aromatic plants that can be planted in residential areas include: herbs such as mint, basil, lemon balm, German chamomile, lemongrass, sage, dandelion, pot marigold, thyme, borage, scented geranium, and mallow; shrubs such as lavender, rosemary, gardenia, rose, and lemon verbena.
An arrangement of woody plants that release fragrance in turn through the four seasons: plum blossom and orange blossom in spring; gardenia and white magnolia in summer; osmanthus in autumn and wintersweet in winter.
Pollution-resistant and exhaust gas-resistant plants: black locust, Paulownia, lacebark pine, Chinese juniper, coral tree, photinia, Pittosporum tobira, Japanese aralia, etc.
Nitrogen-fixing plants: Robinia, Lonicera, Albizia, Amorpha fruticosa, Caragana, Glycine, Lespedeza, Melilotus, Pisum, Phaseolus, Myrica, Elaeagnus, Cycas
Nectar-source, bird-attracting and butterfly-attracting plants: dwarf yew, Buddhist pine, Torreya grandis, Japanese holly, camphor tree, Chinese bayberry, privet, Ternstroemia gymnanthera, Viburnum, Aucuba, Mahonia, firethorn, boxwood, Pittosporum tobira, Japanese aralia, etc., Buddleja davidii, Chinese pistache, and other fragrant-flowered plants (such as plants of the genus Citrus in the family Rutaceae)
Perennial (herbaceous perennial) flowers: torch lily (red-hot poker), lupine, blue fescue, Astilbe, coreopsis, Lysimachia nummularia, oregano, Hibiscus moscheutos, red-flowered mint, Variegated star jasmine, Delosperma, hellebore, Lycoris radiata, daylily, iris, spiderwort, hosta, variegated canna, red-leaf canna, New York aster, Farfugium japonicum, Bletilla striata, perennial Shasta daisy
Flowers and trees of the four seasons:
Spring: various cherry blossoms (early cherry, late cherry, weeping cherry, etc.), various crabapples (Malus micromalus, Malus cathayensis, Malus spectabilis, etc.), Magnoliaceae (Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana, Magnolia liliiflora, red magnolia, Michelia figo, Michelia maudiae, etc.), redbud, red-leaf
plum, peach blossom, camellia, winter jasmine, lilac, etc.
Summer: crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, hydrangea, Michelia figo, summer azalea, pomegranate (flower), gardenia, Chinese trumpet creeper, silk tree, sweet acacia Autumn: osmanthus, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, flowering pomegranate, cotton rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, etc.
Winter: honeysuckle, heavenly bamboo, plum blossom, Michelia figo, camellia, sasanqua, etc.
Schematic classification of common landscaping tree species:
(1) Evergreen coniferous trees
1. Tree types: deodar cedar, Korean pine, Japanese black pine, Chinese juniper, Masson pine, Chinese juniper, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Japanese cedar, Torreya grandis
2. Shrub types: (Buddhist pine), Chinese arborvitae, Calocedrus macrolepis, creeping juniper, Japanese cedar, five-needle pine
(2) Deciduous coniferous trees (no shrubs):
Tree types: dawn redwood, golden larch, pond cypress, bald cypress
(3) Evergreen broadleaf trees:
1. Tree types: camphor tree, Magnolia grandiflora, privet, palm
2. Shrub types: coral tree, Euonymus japonicus, Chinese box, Korean box, Chinese holly, citrus tree, photinia, Pittosporum tobira, osmanthus, oleander, Jasminum fruticans, winter jasmine, gold-splashed euonymus, heavenly bamboo, Serissa serissoides, small-leaf privet, Japanese aralia, gardenia, Distylium racemosum, camellia, Hypericum, azalea, Yucca (yucca, Adam's needle), sago palm (cycad), Mahonia
(4) Deciduous broadleaf trees:
1. Tree types: weeping willow, erect willow, Chinese wingnut, dragon-claw willow, Chinese tallow tree, pagoda tree, Chinese parasol tree (Chinese
parasol tree), London plane (French plane), pagoda tree (Chinese scholar tree), twisted pagoda tree, silk tree, ginkgo, chinaberry (azedarach), catalpa
2. Shrub types: cherry blossom, Magnolia denudata, peach blossom, wintersweet, crape myrtle, redbud, maple, green maple, red-leaf plum, Malus spectabilis, bellflower crabapple, hydrangea, Spiraea thunbergii, Forsythia (golden bells), cotton rose, rose of Sharon (hibiscus), Alchornea (guava tree), pomegranate
(5) Bamboo types: Ci-xiao bamboo, Phyllostachys bambusoides, moso bamboo, black bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, bamboo fern, Buddha belly bamboo, golden bamboo with jade-green stripes
(6) Vines: wisteria, star jasmine, Boston ivy (Boston ivy, wall-climbing ivy), English ivy, grape vine, Euonymus fortunei
(7) Flowers: moss rose, chrysanthemum, salvia, canna, Joseph's coat, cabbage (ornamental cabbage), chrysanthemum, orchid
(8) Lawn: velvet grass, zoysia grass, dwarf lilyturf, evergreen grass, tall fescue, Manila grass, clover, dichondra
Detailed table of commonly used plant arrangements
Table of commonly used street trees
Name Scientific name Family Tree shape Characteristics
Camphor tree Cinnamomun camphcra Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen large tree, leaves alternate, triplinerved, aromatic, berries spherical.
London plane Platanus x acerifolia Platanaceae Ovate Prefers warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerates pruning. Broad crown with dense shade, suitable as a street tree and shade tree.
Maple Liquidamdar formosana Hance. Hamamelidaceae Conical Deciduous tree, bark gray and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, handsome form
Flamboyant tree Delonix regia Raffin Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Sun-loving, prefers warm-hot climate, not cold-tolerant, fast-growing, pollution-resistant, wind-resistant; flowers red and beautiful, flowering period May to August
Silk tree Albizia julibrissin Mimosaceae Umbrella-shaped Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as a shade ornamental tree and street tree
Sweet acacia Albizia farnesiana Wild. Mimosaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, fast-growing, dense branches and leaves, flowers golden yellow, excellent tree vigor
Weeping willow Salix babylonica Linn. Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, suitable for low-lying wet land, grows luxuriantly and rapidly, handsome form
Banyan tree Ficus retusa Linn.. Moraceae Spherical Deciduous tree, broad crown, fast-growing, strong canopy closure, suitable for various pruning styles
Camphor tree Cinnamomum camphora Ness. Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen tree, broad crown, large and rounded, robust growth, handsome form
Chinese fan palm Livitonia chinensis R.Br. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single erect trunk, leaf surface dark green, robust growth, very beautiful posture
Longan tree Euphoria longana Lanark. Sapindaceae Round Evergreen tree with round crown, strong canopy closure, relatively slow-growing, very beautiful posture
Chinaberry (azedarach) Melia azedarach Linn. Meliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous tree, fast-growing, irregular crown, somewhat umbrella-shaped, flowers pale purple
Chinese parasol tree Sterculia platanifolia L. Sterculiaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, broad leaves, fast-growing, upright when young, crown spreading when old
Paper mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. Moraceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, leaves huge and soft-thin, branches spreading in all directions, umbrella-shaped crown, handsome posture
Alder Alnus formosana Makino. Fagaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, tolerant of moisture and heat, unsuitable for dry land and hard soil, tall and handsome form
Ash tree Faxinus insularis Hemsl. Oleaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, robust, fast-growing, beautiful tree form and leaf shape Norfolk Island pine Araucaria cuninghamii Araucariaceae Conical Evergreen conifer, sun-loving, prefers warm-hot climate, not cold-tolerant, fertilizer-loving, fast-growing, narrow conical crown, graceful posture
Qinghai spruce Picea carassifolia Pinaceae Tower-shaped Evergreen conifer, neutral, shallow-rooted, suitable for the northwest region
Korean pine Pinus koraiensis Pinaceae Tower-shaped Evergreen conifer, weakly sun-loving, prefers cool-humid climate and acidic soil, needles blue-green
Chinese juniper (Chinese juniper) Sabina chinensis Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen conifer, sun-loving, young trees slightly shade-tolerant, tolerant of drought and poor soil, cold-tolerant, slightly moisture-tolerant, tolerates pruning, good dust-blocking and sound-insulating effect
Magnolia grandiflora Magnolia grandiflora L. Magnoliaceae Ovate Evergreen tree, flowers large white and fragrant, beautiful tree form,
Acacia confusa Acacia confusa Merr. Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, bark smooth when young, rough when old, trunk mostly curved, strong growth
Date palm Phoenix dactylifera L. Arecaceae Pinnate Evergreen broadleaf tree, trunk branching, strong heat resistance, robust growth, handsome posture
Canary Island date palm (Canary Island date palm) Phoenix dactylifera Arecaceae Pinnate Evergreen broadleaf tree, trunk thick and strong, tall and majestic, pinnate leaves dense and spreading,
Royal palm (royal palm) Oreodoxa regia H.B.K. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single erect trunk, up to 18 m tall, slightly swollen in the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, great ornamental value
Ginkgo Ginkgo biloba Ginkgoaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, autumn leaves yellow, cold-tolerant, deep-rooted, intolerant of waterlogging, resistant to various toxic gases
Chinese tulip tree (Chinese tulip tree) Liriodendron chinense Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm-humid climate, fairly strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, fast-growing, long-lived, leaf shape like a mandarin jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.
Chinese white poplar Populus tomentosa Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers cool climate, pollution-resistant, deep-rooted, fast-growing, fairly long-lived; tree form upright, trunk straight, bark gray-white
Lombardy poplar Populus nigra var. italica Salicaceae Narrowly cylindrical Deciduous broadleaf tree, cold-tolerant and drought-tolerant, slightly tolerant of saline-alkali and waterlogging, fast-growing
Chinese elm Ulmus parvifolia Ulmaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm-humid climate, tolerant of drought and poor soil, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long-lived, resistant to smoke dust and toxic gases, strong dust-retention capacity
Box elder (ash-leaved maple) Acer negundo Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers fertile soil and cool-humid climate, tolerant of smoke dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light saline-alkali, tolerates pruning, autumn leaves yellow {Maintenance measures for southern plants: date palm}.
Table of characteristics of commonly used landscape trees
Name Scientific name Family Tree shape Characteristics
Camphor tree Cinnamomun camphcra Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen large tree, leaves alternate, triplinerved, aromatic, berries spherical.
London plane Platanus x acerifolia Platanaceae Ovate Prefers warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerates pruning. Broad crown with dense shade, suitable as a street tree and shade tree.
Magnolia grandiflora Magnolia grandiflora L. Magnoliaceae Ovate Evergreen tree, flowers large white and fragrant, beautiful tree form,
Magnolia denudata Magnolia denudata Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Fairly cold-tolerant, afraid of waterlogging. Flowers large and pure white, blooms March to April. Suitable for garden viewing.
Chinese tulip tree (Chinese tulip tree) Liriodendron chinense Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm-humid climate, fairly strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, fast-growing, long-lived, leaf shape like a mandarin jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.
Chinese arborvitae Thuja orientalis Linn Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen tree, tree form neat when young, mostly curved when old, strong growth, long-lived, beautiful tree form
Ash tree Faxinus insularis Hemsl. Oleaceae Round Evergreen tree, robust, fast-growing, beautiful tree form and leaf shape Bischofia Bischoffia javanica Blanco Euphorbiaceae Round Evergreen tree, very beautiful when young leaves sprout, robust growth, beautiful tree form
Weeping willow Salix babylonica Linn. Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, suitable for low-lying wet land, grows luxuriantly and rapidly, handsome form
Calocedrus macrolepis Calocedrus macrolepis Kurz Cupressaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, bark gray-brown, showing irregular longitudinal fissures; branchlets alternate, green when young, flattened.
Royal palm Roystonea regia Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single erect trunk, up to 18 m tall, slightly swollen in the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, great ornamental value
Euonymus japonicus Euonymus japonica Celastraceae Ovate Prefers warm-humid climate, resistant to toxic gases. Grown for foliage. Suitable for hedges and foundation planting.
Maple Liquidamdar formosana Hance. Hamamelidaceae Conical Deciduous tree, bark gray and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, handsome form
Chinese wingnut Pterocarya stenoptera Juglandaceae Umbrella-shaped Strong adaptability, tolerant of waterlogging, fast-growing. Suitable as a shade tree, street tree, and bank-protection tree
Creeping juniper Sabina procumbens Cupressaceae Evergreen creeping dwarf shrub, branches spreading horizontally along the ground, leaves needle-like. Slow-growing, unique tree form, branches and leaves emerald green and flowing. Suitable for ground cover and beautification around courtyard stones, ponds, sand pits, slopes, etc. {Maintenance measures for southern plants: date palm}.
Duranta Duranta repens Verbenaceae Round Evergreen shrub. Suitable for large potted plants, flower troughs, hedges. Golden dew drop is mainly grown for foliage, widely used, can be used as ground cover, pruned into shapes, formed into patterns, or used to emphasize color arrangement, dazzling and eye-catching. Chinese holly Ilex cornuta Aquifoliaceae Round Resistant to toxic gases, slow-growing. Green leaves and red berries, very beautiful. Suitable for foundation planting. Paper mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. Moraceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, leaves huge and soft-thin, branches spreading in all directions, handsome posture
Chinese elm Ulmus parvifolia Ulmaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm-humid climate, tolerant of drought and poor soil, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long-lived, resistant to smoke dust and toxic gases, strong dust-retention capacity
Chinese juniper Juniperus Chinensis Linn Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen medium tree, branches dense, dark green, robust growth, suitable for pruning, beautiful tree form
Pittosporum tobira Pittosporum tobira Pittosporaceae Round White flowers fragrant, blooms in May. Suitable for foundation planting, as a hedge or potted plant. Date palm Phoenix dactylifera Linn Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk tillering, up to 20-25 m tall, leaves gray-white with arched curvature, robust growth, beautiful tree form
Hankow willow Salix matsudana Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Suitable as a shade tree, street tree, and bank-protection tree
Silk tree Albizia julibrissin Mimosaceae Umbrella-shaped Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as a shade ornamental tree and street tree
Japanese black pine Pinus Thumbergii Porl. Pinaceae Conical Evergreen tree, bark gray-brown, branchlets orange-yellow, needles hard and in clusters of two, long-lived
Red-leaf plum Prunus cerasifera. F.arropurpurea Rosaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous small tree, branchlets smooth, red-brown, leaves ovate, all purplish red, blooms pale pink small flowers in April, drupe purple. Suitable for both solitary and group planting, as a backdrop.
Washington palm Washingtonia filifera Wend. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single cylindrical trunk, base swollen, up to 4-8 m tall, leaf blade fan-shaped and round, robust growth, beautiful tree form {Maintenance measures for southern plants: date palm}.
Pagoda tree Sophora japonica Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches and leaves dense, crown broad, suitable as a shade tree and street tree
Yellow cassia Cassia glauca Lam. Fabaceae Round Deciduous tree, even-pinnate compound leaves, flowers yellow, fast-growing, beautiful tree form
Box elder (ash-leaved maple) Acer negundo Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers fertile soil and cool-humid climate, tolerant of smoke dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light saline-alkali, tolerates pruning, autumn leaves yellow
Japanese maple Acer palmatum Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Leaf shape elegant, autumn leaves red. Suitable for garden viewing and potted plants.
Golden larch Pseudolarix amabilis Rehd. Pinaceae Ovate tower-shaped Evergreen tree, branches and leaves spreading, leaves linear, alternate on long shoots, leaflets radial, tree form vigorous and upright.
Bottle palm Hyophorbe amaricaulis Mart. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk about 3 m tall, base oval and swollen, forming a wine bottle shape, very beautiful posture
Citrus tree Citrus reticulata Rutaceae Round Flowers white, fruit yellow-green, fragrant. Suitable for group planting.
Chinaberry Melia azedarch Linn. Meliaceae Round Deciduous tree, bark gray-brown, bipinnate odd-pinnate compound leaves, flowers purple, fast-growing
Serissa Serissa serissoides Rubiaceae Round Evergreen small shrub. Leaf color dark green, flowers snow-white, slightly pale pink. Branches and leaves slender, good texture, suitable for potted plants, low hedges, ground cover, flower beds, and pruning into shapes.
Chinese juniper Juniperus chinensis var. Kaituka, Hort Cupressaceae Upright tower-shaped Evergreen medium tree, branches dense, dark green, robust growth, very long-lived, very beautiful tree form
Dragon-claw pagoda tree S. j. cv. Pendula Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches drooping, suitable for garden viewing, opposite planting or row planting
Dragon-claw willow S. m. cv. Tortuosa Salicaceae Round Branches twisted like a roaming dragon, suitable as a shade tree and ornamental tree
Pygmy date palm Phehix Roebelenii Brien. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Erect trunk, 2 m tall, petioles thin and small, leaflets alternate or opposite, an excellent variety with beautiful leaves
Buddhist pine Podocaarpus macrophyllus D. Don Podocarpaceae Long conical Evergreen tree, elegant and simple posture, can be pruned as high-grade bonsai material, or shaped into round, conical, or layered forms for garden landscaping and beautification.
Masson pine Pinus massoniana Lamb. Pinaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, trunk bark red-brown, winter buds brown, large trees majestic
Heavenly bamboo Nandina domestica Berberidaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches and leaves elegant, red berries in autumn and winter; for garden viewing, can be group-planted or potted. Norfolk Island pine Araucaria ecelsa Br. Araucariaceae Conical Evergreen coniferous tree, branches whorled, lower ones drooping, leaves dark green, beautiful tree form, robust growth
Privet Ligustrum lucidum Oleaceae Ovate Flowers white, blooms in June. Suitable as a hedge or street tree.
Chinese fan palm Livistona chinensis R. Br. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Erect trunk up to 6-12 m tall, leaves round, petiole edges spiny, grows luxuriantly, elegant posture
Chinese arborvitae Junlperus chinensis cv. Globosa. Cupressaceae Broadly round Shrub, no main trunk, branches clustered.
Green maple Acer serrulatum Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped conical Deciduous tree. Trunk erect. Tree form light and graceful, can be grown into noble-shaped bonsai, an elegant street tree, landscape tree, forest-bathing tree.
Korean box B. bodinieri Buxaceae Ovate Branches and leaves fine and dense, suitable for garden viewing. Can be group-planted, used as a hedge or potted. Japanese cedar Cryptomeria japonica D. Don Taxodiaceae Conical, ovate, round Evergreen tree. Branches whorled, graceful
Chapter Eight: "Cultivation and Maintenance of Arecaceae Plants"
The Arecaceae is a very distinctive group of evergreen plants in the monocotyledon class, with stems single or clustered, erect or climbing; leaves clustered at the top of the stem, well-developed root system, tolerant of drought, tolerant of poor soil, strong resistance to pests and diseases, and outstanding for creating tropical-style garden landscapes. This edition will introduce its introduction, transplanting, and disease control content.
Brief introduction to the introduction process
There are 183 genera and about 2,400 species of Arecaceae plants worldwide, widely distributed in the tropical and subtropical humid regions of the world. High temperature and high humidity are important conditions for the normal growth and development of most palm plants. A few palm plants have unique adaptability to adverse environments, such as the silver date palm (wild date palm) distributed in extremely arid areas at the edge of deserts, and quite a few palm species that can withstand long-term water immersion, such as the swamp palm. Most palm plants are rich in fiber, with tough stems and well-developed root systems, and have strong wind resistance, such as the Alexander palm and Chinese fan palm.
Since the 1940s, in the construction of numerous tropical and subtropical cities around the world, the landscape effect of palm plants has been recognized, and they have been used as key species for urban greening and beautification, such as in Miami in the United States, Jakarta in India, Bangkok in Thailand, as well as Cape Town in South Africa and Singapore.
Some landscaping companies in Guangdong began the work of introducing and applying palm plants since the early 1980s. Over the following more than twenty years, southern provinces and regions such as Guangxi, Fujian, and Yunnan, and later Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shanghai, Chongqing, and Yunnan and other regions, successively set off an upsurge of introducing, producing, and applying palms.
Several units led by the Guangdong Palm Landscape Company, based on plant geography and ecology theory, through observation and research on the growth conditions and mortality rates of introduced and acclimatized Arecaceae plants, found that plants originating in the Northern Hemisphere generally have cold-tolerance potential because they experienced ancient glacial climates, while species originating in high-latitude and high-altitude regions of the Southern Hemisphere also have relatively strong cold tolerance. Through research on the cold tolerance and cold-tolerance mechanisms of palm plants, researchers found that the main factors affecting introduction and acclimatization are: temperature, light, humidity, moisture, and soil, etc. The most significant effect of the temperature factor is governing plant growth and development, and low winter temperature is the leading factor affecting the success or failure of palm plant introduction and acclimatization; through research on the salt tolerance and shade tolerance of palms, researchers screened out a batch of varieties with relatively strong saline-alkali tolerance and shade tolerance; at the same time, through the control of pests and diseases such as palm Phytophthora disease, coconut leaf beetle, and red palm weevil, the incidence of palm pests and diseases was greatly reduced. In addition, researchers also studied the mechanism of palm seed germination, summarized and invented palm seed germination acceleration technology, mastered the full-crown transplanting of palm plants and the cultivation technology of large-specification container seedlings, and did fruitful work on soil improvement, winter cold protection and conservation, and other technologies.
At present, researchers have screened and promoted about 80 species of palm plants in South China, including royal palm, Chinese fan palm, palm bamboo, south coconut, fishtail palm, etc.; Arecaceae plants successfully applied in Shanghai and surrounding areas mainly include Butia palm, Washington palm, Canary Island date palm, Washington palm, and more than ten other species, and the related research technology has been appraised by experts as having reached the world's advanced level.
Taking the Washington palm as an example
Discussing the occurrence and control of Phytophthora disease
Damage caused by Phytophthora palmivora and general symptoms
This disease commonly affects palm plants such as Royal Palm (Roystonea regia), Large Fan Palm (Livistona chinensis), Washington Palm (Washingtonia filifera), Mexican Fan Palm (Washingtonia robusta), and Canary Island Date Palm (Phoenix canariensis). On affected plants, the central bud fails to emerge normally, new leaves shrink and dry up, and in severe cases entire plants wither in patches. The pathogen is caused by Phytophthora and can be identified through incubation culture. The pathogen mainly overwinters in soil or on diseased plant residues. The bacteria spread through watering, rain splash, and air movement.
Occurrence pattern of Phytophthora disease on Washington Palm
This disease occurs during the high-temperature and high-humidity period between summer and autumn. Following early drought then rain, or poor management after transplanting, such as heavy watering, soil moisture content
suddenly increases, poor ventilation, or plants located in wind gap positions are prone to infection. The disease is severe in low-lying areas, areas with poor drainage, and continuous cropping plots. In addition, this disease is often related to severe root damage during seedling digging and long-distance transport.
When it occurs, the base of the unexpanded young central leaf rots, and the leaf turns grayish-green and droops, and can be pulled out with slight force. Dissecting the stem, one can see paste-like secretions in the growth point and even the entire central part of the plant, with a foul odor, and white mold-like growth on the affected tissue. Severely affected plants also frequently show root damage, with the main symptoms being blackened, rotted roots and a distinct
odor. This disease mainly occurs at the seedling stage and in nurseries; mature trees planted in green spaces are less affected.
Symptoms
In recent years, damage in nursery areas has been relatively severe. In the early stage of disease, yellow-brown water-soaked lesions first appear near the ground level, and the lesions rapidly expand and become slightly sunken; when moist, the surface is densely covered with white cottony mold, and the affected part rots and emits a foul odor. When the disease occurs on leaves, the affected part is yellow-brown, and white mold grows under moist conditions. When it occurs on stems, it is initially dark green, then expands, becomes moist and soft, and in the later stage the upper part shows withering. This disease can harm the entire palm plant. Sometimes the root system and stem, when cut open, exude a pus-like liquid, and in severe cases the edges of young leaf veins carry large amounts of gray-black mycelium. Phytophthora disease is a vascular bundle disease, and in severe cases the entire plant wilts, droops, dries up, and eventually dies, with a high mortality rate.
According to surveys, the peak period of this disease is mostly during high-temperature and high-humidity periods, with an optimum temperature of 27°C to 35°C. For example, in 2006, the disease period in the coastal areas near the Pearl River Delta was July to October, in Xiamen August to November, in Shanghai June to September (also occurring in early spring), and in the mountainous areas of western Pearl River Delta August to November, but in all areas the disease could be seen within 1 to 2 months after typhoons and rainstorms, sometimes occurring sporadically and sometimes appearing in patches.
Control methods
I. Preventive cultivation measures
1. Pay attention to ventilation, dryness, and drainage in the nursery. In autumn and winter each year, prune leaves moderately, and dig pits and earth up the planting site to keep the nursery dry. Normally, increase potassium fertilizer, and also apply quicklime and superphosphate separately, to enhance the density of plant tissues and resistance to infection, and improve the disease resistance of plants.
2. Select good plots: choose loam or sandy loam plots with high terrain and good drainage for planting.
3. Implement crop rotation: for land where Washington Palm has been planted, require a rotation of three to four years or more.
4. Strengthen field management, increase organic fertilizer, promote robust plant growth with deep roots and lush leaves, and improve resistance. Implement high-ridge (bed) cultivation. Appropriately control watering during the rainy season, drain water promptly after rain so that the ground dries after rain; water promptly during drought, and strictly prohibit flood irrigation when watering, and do it on sunny afternoons or evenings.
5. Achieve prevention first and integrated control. Observe regularly, often prune dead branches and fallen leaves, and when diseased plants are found, clean them up promptly and bury them deeply or burn them, and disinfect the diseased holes with lime.
II. Chemical control
One to two months before the onset of disease in summer and during the disease period, use 64% Sandofan WP (1:500 to 600), 80% fosetyl-aluminum (1:400), or other hymexazol-type products such as Kameitong, also known as soil fungicide (usual dosage 600 to 700 times), lime sulfur mixture (1:1:100), Dexon (500 times), etc. for control. Specific control methods: when transplanting Washington Palm, first spray the planting site and the roots of Washington Palm with 600 to 700 times soil fungicide solution, or first dig pits and sun-expose them to sterilize during consecutive sunny days, or spread lime powder to disinfect, or use 500 times Dexon solution for soil disinfection.
After a typhoon, promptly spray Sandofan (better) or fosetyl-aluminum (prone to resistance), adding 0.4% laundry detergent, into the central bud or as a spray for both prevention and treatment. It can also be sprayed with 80% mancozeb 700 times solution, once every 7 to 10 days, for two or three consecutive sprays, which can effectively prevent and control the occurrence of Phytophthora disease. After adopting this measure, the Washington Palm and Mexican Fan Palm at the Shanghai base of Guangdong Palm Landscape Company have reduced their disease incidence from 20% in 2004 to below 10%.
Control experience
The control effect of using carbendazim and similar products is not obvious. If all leaves are cut off in the early stage of disease and the plant is transplanted elsewhere, about 30% can gradually revive after 2 to 3 years, but their growth is poor.
It is understood that in high-temperature and dry areas such as Los Angeles, this disease rarely occurs, so this disease is related to high temperature and high humidity, and the infection route is through surface water, groundwater, and rainwater, etc. When plant roots, trunks, and leaves are damaged, the pathogen invades and multiplies massively when water is sufficient, ultimately causing blockage of the vascular conducting tissue, and the plant wilts and dies from water loss. The heart rot disease described in some literature is actually also Phytophthora disease, only occurring at the central leaf area.
This disease is different from anthracnose, which occurs on leaves and at onset shows small water-soaked spots that later expand into larger lesions and are easily found, and can generally be controlled with fungicides such as carbendazim. As for leaf spot disease, it refers to diseases occurring on leaves, with common pathogens such as Phyllosticta and Pestalotiopsis, often causing leaf blight, but anthracnose and leaf spot disease rarely cause plant death. Transplanting techniques for large single-trunk seedlings
Preparation before transplanting
1. Root pruning should be carried out in advance for seedlings to be transplanted. After root pruning, the soil ball size should be twice the ground diameter, and the root pruning depth should be 50 cm to 60 cm. After root pruning, stones and broken roots should be removed from the soil and it should be backfilled promptly, with good moisture retention: the purpose is to toughen the adaptability of the seedling and encourage new root growth. After root pruning, it is best to keep them for more than 30 days, and transplant only when new roots begin to sprout. If using heeled-in seedlings, the effect is even better.
2. Dig holes and prepare the soil. The planting site should have holes dug 20 days before transplanting, and the hole specification is generally 1.5 times the soil ball. The soil from the holes should be exposed to the open air and sun for a period, and the backfill soil is best a pre-prepared mixed soil: pond mud + farmyard manure or mushroom soil + an appropriate amount of weathered phosphate fertilizer + an appropriate amount of river sand, with sand:soil at 4:6.
Planting time
In the Pearl River Delta region, transplanting can be done throughout the year, with spring and autumn being best. Try to avoid summer and winter, especially January and July. Most palm family plants prefer warmth and moisture. In summer, temperatures are high, seedlings evaporate water quickly, and it is easy to cause excessive water loss that affects survival; in winter, temperatures are low, and some places even have frost, and strong north winds can easily cause frostbite or even death of seedlings.
Moving seedlings
Some large single-trunk palm family seedlings have relatively thick stems, the workload of moving seedlings is large, and the seedlings are very easily injured. Therefore, when moving seedlings, use burlap bags or straw to wrap the trunk, especially the green wrapped part at the boundary between the trunk and the leaf stalk. First, it protects the trunk, and second, it retains moisture and blocks sunlight. In addition, when lifting seedlings, combine with pruning leaves, remove old leaves, and retain 40% to 45% of the leaves (specifically depending on the tree vigor). At the same time, cut off the leaves together with the leaf stalk by 1/5, to minimize water evaporation.
Planting
It is best to plant seedlings on the same day they are dug; if the time is too long, the seedlings evaporate a lot of water and are prone to water loss affecting survival. If they cannot all be planted the same day, cover them with shade netting and spray a small amount of water on the leaf surface every day, doing good shading and moisture retention.
1. Backfilling soil. Once the seedling is positioned, backfill soil. When the backfill reaches half the height of the soil ball, first compact the loose soil. After backfilling is complete, make the soil mound into a "water storage basin" that is slightly higher around the edges and slightly lower in the middle, to facilitate watering and moisture retention.
2. Watering. Immediately after backfilling, water thoroughly to settle the roots. Before watering, first use bamboo poles or similar to poke and firm the loose soil around the soil ball, until the loose soil no longer sinks.
3. Fixing. There are many kinds of supports, and using three bamboo poles to form a triangular support is the most economical and practical. Tie at a height of 2/3 of the trunk.
Post-planting management
1. Moisture retention. Spray the leaves and trunk wrapping twice a day, except on rainy days, until the leaves and trunk wrapping are moist. Do not water the roots, because excess water will flow down and accumulate, causing root rot. Cover the area around the tree base with straw to block sunlight, prevent soil compaction caused by excessive soil temperature differences, and keep the soil around the soil ball loose, moist, and aerated, which helps new roots sprout.
2. Wind protection. Because transplanted large single-trunk palm plants are generally taller and are often affected by thunderstorms and strong winds after transplanting, check regularly after planting whether the supports are loose, especially after strong winds; if the trunk is found to be leaning, straighten and tie it promptly.
3. Topdressing. About one month after planting, urea water can be used as foliar topdressing by spraying, with topdressing about once every half month. After the first new leaf grows and matures, use fully decomposed peanut bran for hole fertilization. The hole position should be a ring-shaped trench opened beyond the edge of the soil ball, with trench width and depth each 30 cm, and the fertilizer should be mixed evenly with the backfill soil.
4. Pest and disease control. Newly transplanted large single-trunk palm family seedlings have relatively weak tree vigor and are very susceptible to pests and diseases, especially tender leaves and central leaves. For insect control, 5% methamidophos plus 5% omethoate can be applied. At present, the invasive pest "coconut leaf beetle" is quite harmful to palm family plants; adults and larvae concentrate in the overlapping spaces of unexpanded central leaves and chew the leaf flesh, causing some or all of the newly emerged leaves to die, and affected plants grow slowly or even die. The control methods include the following: ① 81% malathion emulsifiable concentrate 1000 times solution; ② cypermethrin 500 times solution; ③ use "Yejiaqing", all of which can achieve good control effects. Based on practical operation, the author believes that the simplest, most convenient, and long-lasting method is to hang a "Yejiaqing" packet on the central leaf combined with tying during planting for control.
For large single-trunk palm family seedlings, about one month after planting, whether they have survived can be roughly determined based on whether the leaves remain green, but to truly determine survival, generally one must wait one growing season and use whether new shoots and new roots have emerged as the standard. After the author used the above transplanting techniques in construction, the transplanting survival rate increased from the original 75% to more than 90%, and the above techniques are highly operable and necessary to promote and apply.
Transplanting techniques for seedlings, large trees, and clustered seedlings
Key techniques for transplanting seedlings
Palm family plants are most suitable for transplanting during a period after germination and rooting. At this time the seedlings are smaller and can be transplanted with seeds, and in addition they have few fibrous roots, so the root system is not easily damaged when moving seedlings. Using nutrition bags for seedling cultivation, the size depends on the time for cultivating the seedlings. Generally speaking, 1-year-old seedlings are suitable for 16 cm x 18 cm containers, and 2-year-old seedlings for 19 cm x 20 cm. Nutrition bags that are too small are not conducive to rapid seedling growth. The nutrition soil is prepared with loose topsoil, burnt soil, and wheat bran, mixed evenly in a 5:2:1 ratio with a small amount of phosphate fertilizer, then bagged. First fill half the bag with mixed soil, then place the seedling, then straighten the seedling and fill it full and compact it, so that the seedling root system and the mixed soil are pressed closely together, and water thoroughly. Palm family plants cannot be planted too deep, otherwise it will affect seedling growth. If too deep, lift the seedling upward so that the seedling root system spreads out.
Key techniques for transplanting large trees
Palm family plants are cultivated in nurseries for 5 to 10 years, and most need several rounds of bed transplanting, so selecting sparse-planted strong seedlings results in a higher survival rate.
Reduce damage to the root mass. Palm plant root tissue is tender, with many lateral roots and capillary roots. When digging, bring as large a soil ball as possible and prevent it from loosening and cracking. Minimize the degree of root mass damage so as to maintain normal respiration and water absorption capacity and improve the transplanting survival rate. During construction, accurately set out lines and fix holes to avoid rework and prevent the soil ball from loosening.
Leaf pruning. The amount of leaves retained during transplanting should be comprehensively determined according to different species, the climate at transplanting, and transplanting and maintenance conditions.
Generally, about 40% of the original leaf number should be retained. Retaining too many leaves will cause leaves to yellow and dry due to high water evaporation; retaining too few leaves makes plant recovery difficult and the cycle long, and the initial landscape effect is also poor.
Protect the plant's trunk and its pseudostem. During the processes of digging, carrying, loading, and unloading the plant, the trunk should be protected from damage, and the pseudostem part should not be squeezed or bent. This is the guarantee for plant health and rapid rejuvenation.
Soil at the new planting site. Palm family plants damage root tips during transplanting, and within one month after transplanting it is difficult for new root tips to sprout, so water absorption capacity is weak. At this time, if the soil has good permeability and aeration, it is conducive to seedling survival, so when planting, dig large holes and pay attention to the quality of imported soil, adding peat soil and compound fertilizer to facilitate palm recovery after planting.
Maintenance. Within one month after planting, the plant has poor adaptability, so the seedlings should be carefully maintained, and water must be replenished promptly and appropriate shading given, striving to have new leaves emerge within three months. If continuous rainy weather occurs after transplanting, palm seedlings will recover better, because rainy days can avoid adverse factors such as scorching sun exposure.
Key techniques for transplanting large clustered seedlings
Clustered species of palm family plants have multiple growth points, and after growing into a multi-trunk clustered state, they can grow new roots relatively quickly after transplanting. However, clustered palms also have disadvantages such as heavy trunks, large leaf area causing high water evaporation, and poor ventilation making them susceptible to strong wind damage. Therefore, in addition to the measures for transplanting single-trunk palms, the following technical measures should be added:
1. Implement the "hairy root method" transplanting, that is, after digging a relatively large soil ball, use a small shovel to remove part of the soil along the outer edge of the soil ball, retain more fibrous roots and a moderate soil ball, and then immediately wrap it with lightweight moisture-retaining material, to reduce the weight of the soil ball while ensuring survival. For example, this method can be used for transplanting clustered palms that recover slowly, such as Fishtail Palm (Caryota mitis) and Areca triandra.
2. Implement bare-root heeling-in or potting for centralized maintenance until new roots sprout and the plant stabilizes before formal planting. This method is suitable for robust clustered palms such as Areca Palm (Dypsis lutescens), Ptychosperma elegans, and Hawaiian Palm (Pritchardia), and can reduce transport costs and facilitate construction.
In summary, for transplanting large seedlings and large trees of palm family plants, in brief, do well in five aspects: select strong seedlings; dig soil balls well and transport them carefully; prune leaves moderately; ensure aeration and drainage at the planting site; and do well in post-planting maintenance of sun protection and moisture retention. The sign of successful transplanting of large seedlings and large trees is being able to retain most leaves and sprout new leaves within half a year after planting, among which sprouting three healthy new leaves is complete transplanting success.
Drainage: First understand the hydrological conditions of the planting site, try to place the bottom of the soil ball at a position 100-150CM above the perennial groundwater level of the planting site and with deep fertile soil, and at the same time do well in the underground soil ball root drainage layer and surface runoff guidance network to prevent water accumulation in the soil ball after planting; if the hydrological conditions cannot meet the requirements, the method of planting with a raised soil ball can be used, that is, use loose medium mixed with fertile soil or coarse sand to first pile up the planting site as high as possible to meet the above requirements, then place the plant on the soil mound, and bury the soil ball with mixed loose soil or planting soil mixed with humus soil; remove debris from the soil around the planting site, or appropriately improve the soil with loose medium, to achieve the condition of loose and breathable plant roots; strengthen inspections during the rainy season, promptly clear drainage facilities and appropriately loosen the soil at the roots, to facilitate waterlogging prevention and drainage. Moisture retention: After planting, immediately water once to settle the roots, ensuring the soil ball roots are moist and closely combined with the surrounding soil, promoting root development, then water three more times thoroughly and promptly cover the soil ball to prevent surface soil cracking. In hot summer, spray more water on the ground and tree canopy to increase environmental humidity and reduce transpiration; leaf surface moisture retention treatments include a. newly planted seedlings should have leaves appropriately pruned to reduce the transpiration area of the leaves; b. appropriately spray antitranspirants on the leaves to inhibit plant physiological metabolism and reduce physiological water loss of the plant; c. under sunny weather conditions, spray as much atomized water on the leaves as possible to strengthen leaf water absorption and weaken transpiration; check the moisture status of the soil ball and roots at any time and replenish water promptly, ensuring the moisture of the soil ball and the breathability of root respiration. Fertilization: After planting, in addition to maintaining moisture for the plant, appropriately spray low-concentration foliar fertilizer to strengthen post-planting nutritional supplementation; frequently check the root sprouting status of the plant, and if new roots are found growing, consider increasing root fertilization, generally choosing the season when the monthly average temperature is above 2O°C, applying mainly organic fertilizer, with an appropriate addition of compound fertilizer high in P and K, to promote balanced nutrition of the plant and ensure its rapid recovery and healthy growth. Pest and disease control: Spray to control pests and diseases before the seedlings leave the nursery, and after arriving at the site, spray the plants for pest and disease control before unloading, and ensure three consecutive applications at intervals of one week to ten days within one month after planting, and then reasonably formulate a pest and disease control plan. Special
Part Nine: "Maintenance Plan"
Shidalien (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd. Greening
Main
ten
ance
Plan
Nanjing Gensen Flowers and Trees Co., Ltd.
October 8, 2010
Project overview
"Shidalien (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd." is located at No. 31 Hengfei Road, Nanjing Economic and Technological Development Zone, with a factory green space area of 28,186 sq m. The plant configuration in the factory greening is relatively reasonable, rich in color, with obvious seasonal changes, forming a plant community with distinct layers and natural ecology, basically showing the natural landscape of plants. The configuration of plant flowers, shrubs, and hedges between the factory buildings gives each factory area a different landscape style. The factory area has planted dozens of plant varieties such as camphor, southern magnolia, zelkova, osmanthus, and crape myrtle, among which there is a tree-lined avenue composed of large-specification camphor, and a gatehouse scenic spot composed of ancient red maple, fruiting pomegranate, Malus spectabilis, ginkgo, and Canary Island Date Palm, etc.
In view of the existing situation of the factory greening landscape, we believe that the initial greening construction was relatively extensive, with insufficient understanding of plant habits, especially the replacement of planting soil in the greening land was not in place, and in some areas the garbage soil was not replaced, resulting in poor plant growth.
Greening maintenance plan schedule
January (Minor Cold, Major Cold)
1. Shaping and pruning of fruit trees.
2. Frequently check cold protection equipment, facilities, and seedling cold protection wrappings.
3. Turn the soil for winter plowing and apply sufficient winter fertilizer.
4. Cut off dead, residual, diseased, and pest-damaged branches and leaves, and thoroughly remove overwintering scale insect cysts, slug moth cocoons, and latent overwintering pests.
February (Start of Spring, Rain Water)
1. Continue winter pruning of deciduous trees and fruit trees.
2. Continue cutting off diseased and pest-damaged branches, and pay attention to observing the occurrence of pests and diseases (such as cottony cushion scale, globose scale, etc.).
3. Continue accumulating fertilizer and making compost, prepare culture soil, and continue applying winter fertilizer to various deciduous trees. March (Awakening of Insects, Spring Equinox)
As the weather gradually warms, many pests and diseases are about to occur. Maintain and repair various insect removal and disease prevention equipment and prepare medicines. Pay attention to the occurrence of aphids and globose scale, and achieve timely control. April (Clear and Bright, Grain Rain)
1. Do a good job in controlling pests such as scale insects, mites, cutworms, white grubs, and mole crickets, and diseases such as powdery mildew and rust.
2. Do a good job in loosening soil, weeding, and fertilizing before flowering. Apply light fertilizer weekly to perennial flowers and spring-sown herbaceous flowers.
3. Do a good job in bud removal and pruning of trees. Remove excess tender buds and improperly positioned branches at any time.
4. Clear and repair the drainage system.
May (Start of Summer, Grain Full)
1. Carry out post-flowering pruning and hedge pruning for spring-flowering shrubs, and according to technical operation requirements, carry out bud removal and pruning of trees, and prune and remove root suckers at the base of seedlings at any time.
2. Continue to strengthen tree maintenance and management, do a good job in replanting, thinning, and final singling of seedlings, increase topdressing, and apply light fertilizer frequently.
3. This month temperatures gradually rise, and pests and diseases greatly harm trees and flowers. Pay attention to pest forecasting and do a good job in pest and disease prevention.
4. Carry out lawn mowing and continue removing weeds from the lawn.
June (Grain in Ear, Summer Solstice)
1. This month enters the plum rain season, with high temperatures and high humidity, so promptly carry out replanting.
2. Carry out post-flowering pruning and fertilization for flowering shrubs, and pinch and prune some spring-sown herbaceous flowers.
3. Continue removing weeds and continue mowing.
4. Do a good job in pest and disease control. This month focus on controlling pests such as bagworms, slug moths, tussock moths, inchworms, and tortoise wax scale, and diseases such as leaf spot, anthracnose, and sooty mold.
July (Minor Heat, Major Heat)
1. This month the weather is hot, weeds grow quickly, so continue intertillage and weeding and loosening the soil.
2. Pests such as bagworms, slug moths, longhorn beetles, tortoise wax scale, armored scale, second-generation cottony cushion scale, and mites occur in large numbers. Pay attention to control, and at the same time continue to control anthracnose, powdery mildew, leaf spot, etc.
3. In the dog days with high temperatures and little rain, irrigate to resist drought. This month is also a month with more rainstorms, so pay attention to waterlogging prevention.
4. This month enters the typhoon and tidal flood season, so do a good job in typhoon and flood prevention, check frequently, and promptly straighten wind-thrown trees.
August (Start of Autumn, End of Heat)
1. Continue intertillage and weeding and loosening the soil.
2. Continue to do a good job in drought prevention and drainage to ensure normal seedling growth.
3. This month seedlings grow vigorously, so topdress fertilizer promptly, and for small seedlings apply light fertilizer frequently.
4. Continue to do a good job in typhoon and flood prevention, and promptly straighten wind-thrown trees when found.
5. Continue to do a good job in pest and disease control, and conscientiously control the main pests harmful to trees (bagworms, second-generation slug moths, longhorn beetles, mites, etc.) and main diseases (powdery mildew, anthracnose, leaf spot, etc.).
September (White Dew, Autumn Equinox)
1. Continue to do a good job in pest and disease elimination; in particular, frequently check the occurrence of aphids, wood moths, etc., and once found, control immediately.
2. Continue intertillage and weeding, continue removing lawn weeds, carry out lawn mowing, and carry out shaping and pruning of ball plants and hedges.
3. Continue to do a good job in pest and disease control. In particular, check the pest and disease situations of more frequently occurring aphids, bagworms, slug moths, brown spot disease, and sooty mold on flowering shrubs, and control promptly.
October (Cold Dew, Frost Descent)
1. Do a good job in pest and disease control and eliminate various adults and eggs.
2. Continue intertillage and weeding.
3. After seedlings stop growing, check the survival rate, ascertain the actual inventory, and ensure the smooth progress of winter and spring greening work.
November (Start of Winter, Minor Snow)
1. Do a good job in cold protection, whitewash some trees, or wrap them with straw rope.
2. Carry out winter tree pruning, cut off diseased branches and dead branches; branches with eggs and competing branches, excessive