How to Grow Morning Glories and Key Points to Note
1. First, prepare the growing soil. Soak the seeds in warm water, and after 4-6 hours treat them moderately with sulfuric acid, then scatter them over the soil and cover them with soil. Then sprinkle a little water on top, keeping the soil surface moist.
2. Wait for the seeds to germinate; the temperature needs to be kept at 15-20 degrees. If the temperature is too low or too high, it will be unfavorable for growth. If it is below 10 degrees, the seeds are not easy to germinate, and if the temperature is too high, the young sprouts rot easily.
3. When the sprouts grow into small seedlings with 5-6 leaves, you can repot them into a slightly larger pot, add some organic fertilizer to the soil, water appropriately, pay attention to ventilation, and wait quietly for new leaves to grow.
4. During the growth of morning glories, if the leaves turn yellow, it is mostly caused by a lack of fertilizer, so fertilizer should be applied appropriately. When fertilizing, the fertilizer can be dissolved into liquid and sprayed directly on the leaf surface.
5. Only when the vines grow well will the plant bloom. Ideally, the first leaf of the vine produces an axillary bud, and the second and third leaves produce flower buds. When the flower buds are differentiating, some of them can be pinched off, which is more favorable for blooming.
How to Grow Morning Glories
Habits:It likes a warm, sunny environment, is not cold-tolerant, and can tolerate drought and poor, thin soil. It grows best in moist, fertile, neutral soil with good drainage. It is a short-day plant. The flowers usually open in the early morning and wither and fade before noon. It is an annual twining herbaceous flower.
Cultivation and Management:
It can be sown directly outdoors in spring. The germination temperature is above 15°C. If sown outdoors, it should be transplanted when it is a seedling; if sown in a flowerpot, when the seedling has 4-5 true leaves, move it into a pot 20-25CM in diameter and set up a support. If no support is set up, then when the main vine grows 5-7 true leaves, pinch off the growing tip, and after axillary buds appear, select and keep 2 vines from the middle and lower parts and remove the rest. With this summer operation, each pot can simultaneously bear more than 10 flower buds. Fertilize and water in a timely manner, and drain waterlogged areas promptly during the rainy season.
1. Seedling raising: The germination temperature of morning glory seeds is 20-30°C. Generally, sowing is done in late April to early May (in the south it can be earlier). Sow in rows by variety in a fine sandy soil seedbed. When the humidity is moderate, they sprout in about 10 days. After about another 10 days, the cotyledons fully open. When the true leaves have just sprouted, they should be transplanted into small pots. Too early makes the seedlings weak, too late damages the roots, and neither is good for later development. The small pots should be marked to indicate the variety.
2. Planting out: After the seedlings in the small pots grow two or three true leaves, the root system has developed well at this point, so they can be planted out in medium pots, with base fertilizer added in advance. As Mr. Mei said, morning glories are not afraid of heavy fertilizer, and horse hooves, fully rotted hemp residue, etc. can be used as base fertilizer. The root system development of morning glories needs temperature. The pots should be turned frequently so that sunlight exposure is even and the root system develops fully.
3. Pinching: After the morning glory grows three or four true leaves, the center begins to produce vines, and at this time they should be pinched off. After the first pinching, vines grow again from the leaf axils. After the vines produce three or four leaves, pinch again, and at the same time combine this with shaping. After each pinching, topdressing should be applied, and the fertilizer used is similar to the topdressing used for chrysanthemums. Be careful not to let fertilizer water and mud stain the leaves (including the cotyledons), so as to prevent the leaves from falling off. After the vines grow, they enter the flowering period (generally one month after planting out). Ideally, the first leaf of the vine produces an axillary bud again, and the leaf axils of the second and third leaves produce flower buds. After the flower buds take shape, the stipules of the flower buds can be removed to facilitate the development of the buds. To ensure that nutrients are fully supplied to the flower buds so that they open into large and brilliant flowers, some flower buds can also be removed to cultivate single blooms, just like cultivating variety chrysanthemums. After flowering, the faded flowers should be removed so they do not set seed, so as to avoid affecting the nutrition of the next batch of flowers. Of course, after three or four batches of flowers have bloomed, axillary buds grow in clusters and become difficult to control. Common varieties can be switched to ground planting, while superior varieties are kept for seed collection.
4. Seed collection: Good varieties must have their seeds saved well. After they mature in early autumn, collect the seeds, classify and label them, and store them. If variations appear, they should be preserved with even greater care. For crossbreeding morning glories, after selecting the female parent and male parent, cut off the upper end of the flower bud at dusk on the day before flowering, then remove the stamens and wrap it with a wax paper bag. The next morning, remove the wax paper bag, use the stamens of the male parent for artificial pollination, then wrap it again with a wax paper bag. After one or two weeks, the wax paper bag can be removed, but the pollinated seed pods must be well marked and recorded. The following year, all the crossed seeds should be planted well, and after flowering the results can be observed, from which the effects of various genetic factors can be studied.
How to Grow Morning Glories, How to Plant Morning Glories
Morning glories are generally sown in spring and do not need germination acceleration, and they have no requirements for soil. Of course, if you have nutrient soil or the like on hand, that is also fine, and ordinary flower soil will do too. After sowing, cover with about 2 cm of soil, then water thoroughly. Generally, they germinate in about 3-5 days and bloom in June-July. The most important thing for morning glories is light; under sufficient light they bloom very easily. So how do you grow morning glories, and what is the method for planting morning glories? Below, the editor will introduce it to everyone.
How to Grow Morning Glories
1. Seedling raising
The germination temperature of morning glory seeds is 20-30°C. Generally, sowing is done in late April to early May (in the south it can be earlier). Sow in rows by variety in a fine sandy soil seedbed. When the humidity is moderate, they sprout in about 10 days. After about another 10 days, the cotyledons fully open. When the true leaves have just sprouted, they should be transplanted into small pots. Too early makes the seedlings weak, too late damages the roots, and neither is good for later development. The small pots should be marked to indicate the variety.
2. Planting out
After the seedlings in the small pots grow two or three true leaves, the root system has developed well at this point, so they can be planted out in medium pots, with base fertilizer added in advance. As Mr. Mei said, morning glories are not afraid of heavy fertilizer, and horse hooves, fully rotted hemp residue, etc. can be used as base fertilizer. The root system development of morning glories needs temperature. According to Japanese researchers, black pots absorb heat better than red pots. The pots should be turned frequently so that sunlight exposure is even and the root system develops fully.
3. Pinching
After the morning glory grows three or four true leaves, the center begins to produce vines, and at this time they should be pinched off. After the first pinching, vines grow again from the leaf axils. After the vines produce three or four leaves, pinch again, and at the same time combine this with shaping. After each pinching, topdressing should be applied, and the fertilizer used is similar to the topdressing used for chrysanthemums.
Be careful not to let fertilizer water and mud stain the leaves (including the cotyledons), so as to prevent the leaves from falling off. After the vines grow, they enter the flowering period (generally one month after planting out). Ideally, the first leaf of the vine produces an axillary bud again, and the leaf axils of the second and third leaves produce flower buds. After the flower buds take shape, the stipules of the flower buds can be removed to facilitate the development of the buds. To ensure that nutrients are fully supplied to the flower buds so that they open into large and brilliant flowers, some flower buds can also be removed to cultivate single blooms, just like cultivating variety chrysanthemums.
After flowering, the faded flowers should be removed so they do not set seed, so as to avoid affecting the nutrition of the next batch of flowers. Of course, after three or four batches of flowers have bloomed, axillary buds grow in clusters and become difficult to control. Common varieties can be switched to ground planting, while superior varieties are kept for seed collection.
4. Shaping and pruning
Mainly for ground planting, used as a hedge decoration: when the main vine grows 7-8 leaves, pinch the growing tip and keep 4 leaves. After 3 side vines grow, keep 4 leaves and pinch again. After 9 side vines have grown, distribute them evenly on a fence or wall and tie them in place to let them grow, and a green hedge and flower wall can soon be formed.
When growing in salt? [sic] for indoor ornamental display, when the seedling is about 6 cm tall, a flower support can be set up in the pot to let it twine upward. You can also pinch the growing tip when there are 7-8 leaves, keeping 4 leaves, and after 3 side vines grow, pinch again keeping 1 leaf. Keep the number of buds per pot to no more than 9. This can make the plant shape full and the flowers large. A basket-style cultivation method can also be used.
5. Seed collection
Good varieties must have their seeds saved well. After they mature in early autumn, collect the seeds, classify and label them, and store them. If variations appear, they should be preserved with even greater care. For crossbreeding morning glories, after selecting the female parent and male parent, cut off the upper end of the flower bud at dusk on the day before flowering, then remove the stamens and wrap it with a wax paper bag.
The next morning, remove the wax paper bag, use the stamens of the male parent for artificial pollination, then wrap it again with a wax paper bag. After one or two weeks, the wax paper bag can be removed, but the pollinated seed pods must be well marked and recorded. The following year, all the crossed seeds should be planted well, and after flowering the results can be observed, from which the effects of various genetic factors can be studied.
The above is the article How to Grow Morning Glories, How to Plant Morning Glories. After morning glories become established seedlings, they generally do not easily suffer from diseases, but due to the influence of the cultivation environment, some diseases can still occur, such as gray mold, fusarium wilt, and physiological diseases. Prevention should be the main approach. Carbendazim + streptomycin can be sprayed once every 7 to 10 days. Once a disease occurs, timely and targeted treatment should be given according to the actual situation.